Enjoy This Winter in the Mountains Safely a Smoky Mtn. Rarity: The

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The Official Newspaper of Great Smoky Mountains National Park SPECIAL EDITION Winter 2015-16 Happy Birthday NPS! BILL LEA PHOTO BOB GRESS PHOTO

OWLS IN WINTER

Five species of owls have been recorded in Great Smoky Mountains Unlike the striped skunk, Eastern spotted skunks are seldom seen here. National Park: Barn,

Barred, Eastern Screech, Newfound Gap Road offers visitors a glimpse of the high country. A Smoky Mtn. Rarity: Great Horned, and Saw- whet. All are year-round Enjoy This Winter in The Spotted Skunk residents. Barred owls are often active during If a kitten-sized spot- can look over their shoulder the Mountains Safely ted animal with very and take careful aim at humans the day and are easier to Q:soft fur scampers up to you or other threats. see in winter when the he 33-mile-long Newfound restrictions on winter driving. on the trail, stamps its paws Throughout their range, Gap Road (U.S. 441) is the Typically, Newfound Gap and then stands on its front spotted skunks are something leaves are off the trees. Tmain automobile route through Road is temporarily closed legs, what should you do? of a mystery. There are few Great Smoky Mountains 15-20 times each winter. Even places where they are truly National Park. It crosses the though driving conditions A: Be afraid. Be very afraid. common, and even in those crest of the Smoky Mountains may seem fine near Gatlin- Although tiny (only 20 inches areas, sightings are few and at Newfound Gap (elevation burg or Cherokee, Newfound long and weighing under a far between. In the Smokies, 5,046’) to connect the towns of Gap Road contains very steep pound) spotted skunks have perhaps two or three sightings Gatlinburg, TN and Cherokee, grades and is oftern coated an unspeakably foul spray of spotted skunks are reported NC. Driving time is typically with snow and ice in winter. which they can direct with each year. One reason for this one hour. Salt is not used to treat roads marksman-like accuracy at elusiveness is that spotted At Newfound Gap, where in the park because it dam- distances of up to 15 feet. skunks are nocturnal. They are the road reaches its highest ages the plant and stream life Experts on the subject say also gentle creatures that prefer point, temperatures are fre- that the park was created to spotted skunk musk is signifi- to avoid conflicts with larger quently 10-15° F cooler than in protect. cantly stronger than that of animals. Cherokee or Gatlinburg. In ad- For current conditions the striped skunk. Spotted skunk burrows dition, the higher elevations of call (865) 436-1200 or check The unique “hand stand” have surprisingly small en- the park receive considerably Twitter at twitter.com/smokies- is just one of the peculiar be- trances (3” wide) and are of- more precipitation than the roadsnps. haviors exhibited by spotted ten found in rocky areas, hol- Indoor Activities surrounding valleys. Annually, Winter hikers should be skunks. It is their final warn- low logs, and under stumps. Please see Page 2 Newfound Gap records over prepared for cold and wet ing before unleashing their The animals’ diet includes five feet of snow. conditions, even if the day potent spray to deter preda- mice, insects, reptiles, bird This combination of low starts warm. Always bring tors or other threats. Prelim- eggs, fruit, and carrion. Their temperatures and high pre- rain gear, hat, and gloves. inary warnings include the main enemies are bobcats, cipitation results in periods of Dress in layers with wool or stamping of their front feet great horned owls (who don’t hazardous driving conditions. fleece. Avoid cotton clothing and “bluff charging.” From mind the smell) and motor For the safety of motorists, the in winter because it loses the handstand position they vehicles. Park Service imposes certain insulation value when wet. indoor activities There are also plenty of indoor options for exploring the national park

hen the weather calls for indoor activities, visitors to the Great Smoky Moun- Wtains still have a wide range of options for exploring the natural and cultural histories of the national park. Four quality museums with updated exhibits are located either inside the park or within five miles of its entrances. All are open year-round.

Oconaluftee Visitor Center & Museum

Sugarlands Visitor Center & Museum Swain County Heritage Museum PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL LEA, LISA DUFF & JAMES WALKER LEA, LISA BILL BY PHOTOGRAPHS

Sugarlands Visitor Center Swain County Visitor Center and Museum and Heritage Museum Located on U.S. 441 in Great Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center Located in downtown Bryson Smoky Mountains National City, NC at the corner of Main & Park, 2 miles south of Everett Streets. Gatlinburg, TN. Great Smoky Mountains Oconaluftee Visitor Center Open 9-5, closed Open 8-4:30, Heritage Center and Museum Christmas Day closed Christmas Day Located on Hwy 73 in Townsend, TN. Located on U.S. 441 in Great Admission: Free Admission: Free Open 10-5, Closed most Sundays Smoky Mountains National Park, (865) 436-7318 x318 (865) 436-1291 Admission: $7 adults, $5 seniors, $5 2 miles north of Cherokee, NC. kids 6-17, free for kids 5 and under Open 8-4:30, closed Christmas Day (865) 448-0044 Admission: Free The Heritage Museum covers the Highlights include a free 20-min- (828) 497-1904 dramatic history of Swain County, NC, ute film shown on the hour and including the story of Cherokee Indian The center is located on six acres and half hour in a state-of-the-art towns like Kituwha, European-Amer- offers both indoor and outdoor exhibits. Exhibits include audio recordings surround sound theater. The ican settlers eeking a living from the Subject matter includes east Tennessee of mountain folk, park artifacts, film provides an overview of the rugged Smoky Mountains, Civil War American Indian history and the lives of video clips, 3-D maps, historic park’s natural and cultural battles, moonshiners, bear hunters, Euro-American settlers from the ear- photographs, and more.There is a history. Exhibits in the museum Fontana Dam, and the creation of the ly 1800s to the establishment of Great well-staffed information desk and a area use intricate re-creations national park. The museum includes Smoky Mountains National Park. High- bookstore inside as well. Outside the to spotlight the Smokies’ rich interactive exhibits just for kids as well lights are restored historic buildings, visitor center over a dozen historic habitats and diverse plant and as video presentations, a real log cabin, re-creations of log cabin interiors, and log buildings are preserved on the animal life. There is a well- and many mural-sized photographs quilts and other artifacts from the Great Mountain Farm Museum. A brand staffed information desk and a and artifacts. Smoky Mountains National Park collec- new audio tour of the farm muse- bookstore inside as well. Out- In the visitor center there is infor- tion. Visit gsmheritagecenter.org for a list um is now available. In addition, a side, several short trails lead to mation about hiking, rafting, sightsee- of special exhibits and events. walking and bicycling trail follows natural and historic points of ing, and riding the Smoky Mountain the river to Cherokee. interest. Railroad.

2 v smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 smokies trip planner to order maps and guides: www.smokiesinformation.org accommodations pets in the park

Le Conte Lodge (accessible by Pets are allowed in frontcoun-

BILL LEA PHOTO trail only) provides the only try campgrounds and beside lodging in the park. Call (865) roads as long as they are 429-5704. restrained at all times. Pets For information on lodg- are not allowed on park trails, smokies guide ing outside the park: except for the Gatlinburg Bryson City 1-800-867-9246 and Oconaluftee River trails. Smokies Guide is produced Cherokee 1-800-438-1601 Dogs on these trails must be Fontana 1-800-849-2258 leashed. five times per year by Great Gatlinburg 1-800-267-7088 Smoky Mountains Asso- Maggie Valley 1-800-624-4431 road closures ciation and Great Smoky Pigeon Forge 1-800-251-9100 The following roads close for Mountains National Park. Sevierville 1-888-766-5948 the winter. Listed below are Publication dates are roughly Townsend 1-800-525-6834 the estimated 2016 opening as follows: dates. This schedule is subject to change. SPRING: March 15 Clingmans Dome—April 1 Rich Mountain—April 8 SUMMER: June 1 BILL LEA PHOTO Roaring Fork —March 25 LATE SUMMER: August 10 Parson Branch—April 8 AUTUMN: September 13 Campgrounds at Smokemont and Cades Cove are open all year. WINTER: December 1 camping in the the national park special events

Contributing Editor The National Park Service The list below shows December 12, 2015 Steve Kemp maintains developed camp- number of sites, elevations, Festival of Christmas Past: grounds at seven locations in fees, approximate 2016 opera- Sugarlands Visitor Center NPS Coordinator the park. There are no show- tion dates, and maximum RV Elizabeth Dupree ers or hookups other than lengths. Dates are subject to December 19, 2015 Editorial Board circuits for special medical change. Visit www.nps.gov/ Holiday Homecoming at Coralie Bloom uses at Cades Cove, Elkmont, grsm for current information. Oconaluftee Visitor Center Lynda Doucette and Smokemont. ABRAMS CREEK 16 sites, Kristine Johnson Campsites at Elkmont, elev. 1,125’, $14, open May 27- Bicycling Cades Cove in winter. April 20-April 24, 2016 Smokemont, Cataloochee, Oct. 10, 12’ trailers Spring Wildflower Pilgrim- Terry Maddox Cosby, and Cades Cove BALSAM MOUNTAIN 46 age: parkwide Mike Maslona may be reserved. For reser- sites, elev. 5,310’, $14, open bicycling Stephanie Sutton vations call 1-877-444-6777 May 27-Oct. 10, 30’ RVs Most park roads are too May 11, 2016 or contact www.recreation. BIG CREEK 12 sites, elev. narrow and heavily traveled Start of bicycle mornings in Contributors gov. Sites may be reserved 1,700’, $14, open April 8-Oct. by automobiles for safe or Cades Cove Lisa Horstman, up to six months in advance. 31, tents only enjoyable bicycling. However, Reservations are required at CADES COVE 159 sites, elev. June 18, 2016 Karen Key Cades Cove Loop Road is Cataloochee Campground. 1,807’, $17-$20, open year- an exception. This 11-mile, Women’s Work, Oconaluftee Other park campgrounds are round, 35’-40’ RVs one-way, paved road pro- © 2015 Great Smoky first-come, first-served. CATALOOCHEE 27 sites, vides bicyclists with excellent September 9-11, 2016 Mountains Association Site occupancy is limited elev. 2,610’, $20, open opportunities for wildlife Music of the Mountains at to six people and two vehicles March 25-Oct. 31, reserva- viewing and touring historic Sugarlands Visitor Center GSMA (a trailer = 1 vehicle). The tions required, 31’ RVs homesites. maximum stay is 14 days. COSBY 157 sites, elev. 2,459’, picnic areas P.O. Box 130 Helmets are required by Special camping sites for $14, April 8-Oct. 31, 25’ RVs law for persons age 16 and Picnic areas open year-round Gatlinburg, TN 37738 large groups are available sea- DEEP CREEK 92 sites, elev. under. However, helmets are are: Cades Cove, Deep Creek, sonally at Big Creek, Cades 1,800’, $17, open April 8-Oct. strongly recommended for all Greenbrier, and Metcalf Bot- Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, 31, 26’ RVs bicyclists. toms. Please see page 16 for Deep Creek, Elkmont, and ELKMONT 220 sites, elev. Bicycles are permitted locations. Smokemont. Group sites must 2,150’, $17-$23, open March on park roads but prohibited be reserved. Call 1-877-444- 11-Nov. 27, 32’-35’ RVs on trails except Gatlinburg, other services printed on recycled paper 6777 or contact www.recre- LOOK ROCK Closed Oconaluftee River, and lower ation.gov. Group sites may SMOKEMONT 142 sites, elev. Deep Creek. There are no gas stations, be reserved up to one year in 2,198’, $17-$20, open year- For biking in national showers, or restaurants in the advance. round, 35’-40’ RVs forests, call (828) 257-4200. national park.

smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 v 3 park information for additional information, visit www.nps.gov/grsm

Gatlinburg, TN elev. 1,462’ Mt. Le Conte elev. 6,593’

Avg. High Low Precip. Avg. High Low Precip. DRIVING Jan. 49° 27° 4.0” 36° 18° 6.7” DISTANCES &

Feb. 53° 28° 4.1” 37° 19° 5.6” ESTIMATED PHOTO JIM MOWBRAY March 62° 35° 5.5” 44° 25° 7.0” TIMES April 71° 42° 4.5” 52° 31° 6.7” May 77° 50° 5.7” 58° 39° 8.0” June 82° 58° 5.8” 64° 47° 8.7” Cherokee, NC to: July 85° 62° 6.3” 67° 50° 9.0” Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) Aug. 84° 61° 5.3” 67° 49° 7.6” Cades Cove: 57 miles (2 hours) Sept. 79° 55° 4.7” 62° 44° 7.2” Newfound Gap: 18 miles Oct. 70° 43° 2.9” 55° 35° 4.7” (1⁄2 hour) Nov. 60° 34° 3.4” 46° 27° 6.8” Clingmans Dome: Dec. 51° 28° 4.6” 38° 20° 6.4” 25 miles (3⁄4 hour) The above temperature and precipitation averages are based on data for Cataloochee: 39 miles the last 20 years. Temperatures are in degrees fahrenheit. An average (11⁄2 hours) of over 84” (7 feet) of precipitation falls on the higher elevations of the Deep Creek: 14 miles (1⁄2 hour) Smokies. On Mt. Le Conte, an average of 82.8” of snow falls per year.

Gatlinburg, TN to: Primitive backcountry shelters are located along the Appalachian Trail park weather Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) and near the summit of Mt. Le Conte. Reservations are required. Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) winter camping in the backcountry SPRING Newfound Gap: 16 miles

March has the most change- BILL LEA PHOTO (1⁄2 hour) Winter camping can be an ex- able weather; snow can fall Gatlinburg on U.S. 441. (865) citing adventure for persons on any day, especially at the Clingmans Dome: 436-1297. properly equipped and in- higher elevations. Backpack- 23 miles (3⁄4 hour) 3. Make your reservation and formed. To facilitate this activ- ers are often caught off guard Cataloochee: 65 miles (2 hours) obtain your permit through ity, the National Park Service when a sunny day in the 70s the backcountry office at Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles maintains over 800 miles F. is followed by a wet, bit- Sugarlands Visitor Center (by (1⁄4 hour) of trails and more than 100 terly cold one. By mid- to late phone or in person) or online Deep Creek: backcountry campsites and April, the weather is milder. at www.smokiespermits.nps. shelters throughout the park. SUMMER 48 miles (11⁄2 hours) gov. One of the greatest challenges By mid-June, heat, haze, and Reservations and permits for backcountry campers is humidity are the norm. Most Townsend, TN to: are required for all overnight deciding where to go. Here stays in the backcountry. precipitation occurs as after- Fishing for brook trout is now Cades Cove: 9 miles (1⁄3 hour) are some tools to help. noon thundershowers. allowed in most park streams. The cost is $4 per person per Newfound Gap: 34 miles 1. Go online to view the AUTUMN night. Reservations may be (11⁄4 hours) park’s official trail map In mid-September, a pat- fishing made up to 30 days in ad- (www.nps.gov/grsm/plan- tern of warm, sunny days Gatlinburg: 22 miles (3⁄4 hour) vance. Fishing is permitted year- yourvisit/maps.htm), which and crisp, clear nights often Cherokee: 52 miles (11⁄2 hours) Winter hikers should be round in the park, but a shows all park trails, camp- begins. However, cool, rainy Look Rock: 18 miles (1⁄2 hour) especially aware of the danger Tennessee or North Carolina sites, and shelters. Park rules days also occur. Snow may of hypothermia—the lower- fishing license is required. Cataloochee: and regulations are also listed fall at the higher elevations in ing of body temperature. The Either state license is valid 87 miles (21⁄4 hours) here. If you wish, you can November. combination of rain, cold, and throughout the park and no purchase the printed version WINTER wind is especially dangerous. trout stamp is required. A of the trail map for $1 by stop- Days during this fickle season At the park’s higher eleva- special permit is required for ping at any park visitor center can be sunny and 65°F. or tions, hypothermia can be a the Cherokee Reservation and or calling (865) 436-7318 x226 snowy with highs in the 20s. threat even during summer. Gatlinburg. Licenses are avail- or shopping online at www. At the low elevations, snows To prevent hypothermia, able in nearby towns. Fishing SmokiesInformation.org. of 1” or more occur 3-5 times carry good rain gear at all with bait is prohibited. 2. Call or stop by the park’s per year. At Newfound Gap, times. Layer clothing that A free fishing map with a backcountry office, which is 69” fall on average. Lows of provides warmth when wet complete list of all park fish- open daily from 8-5:00, for -20°F. are possible in the high (not cotton). Be prepared for ing regulations is available at trip planning help. The office country. sudden weather changes, es- visitor centers. is located in Sugarlands Visi- pecially at the high elevations. tor Center, two miles south of Stay dry.

4 v smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 places to go the national park encompasses over 800 square miles

To Knoxville 321 129 441 411 Pigeon Forge Exit 451 TN NC 321 NPS PHOTO

BILL LEA PHOTO 321 Maryville BIG CREEK 129 Gatlinburg 321 411 40

Parkwa Newf oun d. d . R ELKMONT tn ls M m a NEWFOUND ls Foothil Ga a GAP p B Exit 20 Rd . Heintooga Ridge CADES Rd. COVE 276 19 e Blu Ridge DEEP CREEK

Cherokee w

y Fontana Lake 19 cades cove TN 441 newfound gap NC 129 23 28 Bryson 74 28 74 City highlights: f historic buildings 06miles highlights: DD mountain views wildlife viewing snow? s old elkmont town deep creek big creek A Cades Cove is one of the most In southern Appalachian ver- popular destinations in the nacular, a gap is a low point highlights: walking trails Smokies because it offers an highlights: fhistoric buildings highlights: F walking trails F in a mountain ridge. New mountain biking unusual blend of both natural walking trails Englanders call such places and cultural resources. F Big Creek is one of the few “notches” while westerners Deer are often sighted in The Deep Creek area is an off- areas in the Smokies that refer to them as mountain The Elkmont area was once the fields, and their breeding the-beaten-path destination in is relatively accessible via “passes.” a logging boomtown and a season (or “rut”) continues the Great Smoky Mountains, interstate highway. From I-40 At nearly a mile high bustling enclave of summer through early winter. Ob- celebrated for its rushing between Asheville and Knox- (5,046’), Newfound Gap is vacation homes. Today the servations of other wildlife, streams and waterfalls. Hik- ville, take Exit 451, cross the significantly cooler than the National Park Service has including bear, Wild Turkey, ers enjoy the area because of Pigeon River on the bridge, surrounding lowlands and restored the Appalachian and coyote are also possible. the waterfalls and because turn left and follow the road receives much more snow. On Clubhouse and Spence cabin Please use pullouts when there are several loop hikes to two miles into the national average, 69 inches of snow and stabilized 17 other his- viewing wildlife. Never ap- choose from. Mountain bikers park. Although the picnic area falls at the gap each year. toric buildings. The site offers proach or feed animals. can take advantage of one and campground are closed in When there is snow on visitors a chance to explore A wide array of historic of the few park trails where winter, three excellent hiking the ground, and Newfound an early 20th century Appala- buildings, some dating back bicycles are permitted. trails originate from here. Gap Road has not been closed chian summer resort. to the mid-19th century, are Deep Creek area loop Big Creek Trail starts from because of it, opportunities Elkmont also has a variety preserved throughout the hikes include Juney Whank near the campground and of- do exist for snow sports in of easy-to-moderate hiking cove. These include a grist Falls (0.6 mile), Three Wa- fers a scenic 4-mile roundtrip the area. Many people use trails, including the Cucum- mill, a variety of barns, three terfalls Loop (2.4 miles), and hike along the creek to Mouse Clingmans Dome Road ber Gap loop (5.5 miles), churches, and a renowned Deep Creek-Indian Creek Creek Falls. Chestnut Branch (closed to vehicles in winter) Elkmont Self-guiding Nature collection of log homes. Loop (4.4 miles). Longer loop Trail leads 2.1 steep miles up for walking, snowshoeing, Trail (0.8 mile roundtrip), An 11-mile one-way loop hikes are also possible. from the ranger station to the and cross-country skiing. The Jakes Creek Falls (3.2 miles road takes you around the Bicycles are allowed on Appalachian Trail. From there road starts 0.1 mile south of roundtrip), and Huskey cove. A visitor center (open Deep Creek and Indian Creek it’s another 3.8 miles to Mt. Newfound Gap. Branch Falls (4.3 miles daily), restrooms, and the trails to the points where the Cammerer fire tower and its A trip to Newfound Gap roundtrip). Little River Trail Cable Mill walking tour are old roadbeds end and the trail famous views. Baxter Creek is a trip to the Canadian zone makes a pleasant streamside located halfway around. treads begin. Trail starts from the picnic spruce-fir forest. This fra- stroll. Numerous trails start in Deep Creek Picnic Area is area and leads 6.1 strenuous grant evergreen woodland is Anglers have long fre- the cove, including the 5-mile open year-round. The picnic miles (over 4,000’ of elevation similar to the boreal forests quented nearby Little River roundtrip trail to Abrams pavilion can be reserved at gain) to Mt. Sterling fire tower of New England and eastern for its excellent trout fishing. Falls and the 8.5-mile Rich www.recreation.gov and its wonderful views. Canada. Mountain loop hike. Mileage from Gatlinburg––7 Mileage from Cherokee—14 Mileage from Gatlinburg—29 Mileage from Gatlinburg––16 Mileage from Townsend––9 from Townsend—15 from Gatlinburg—48 from Cherokee—62 from Cherokee––18 from Cherokee—39 from Gatlinburg––27 from Townsend—65 from Townsned—50 from Townsend—34

smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 v 5 national park news connect to the park on Twitter: www.twitter.com/GreatSmokyNPS National Park Service Park Visits to Break All-time Record News Briefs in 2015 and will continue through 2016 and beyond. Everitt cites the Centen- Alum Cave Trail Will Stay

BILL LEA PHOTO nial campaign for raising the Open Through Winter public consciousness about the 409 unit national park system and “reminding people of THE EVER-POPULAR Alum Cave the unbelievable opportuni- Trail to Alum Cave Bluff and Mt. Le ties that public lands offer.” Conte will remain open throughout No doubt the recent the winter again this year. It will then plunge in gasoline prices is close on Mondays-Thursdays starting in early May 2016. also part of the equation. The surge of park vis- The closure will allow the Trails Forever crew to continue itors this year is certainly upgrading the badly worn route. Hikers can already appre- not limited to the Smokies. ciate all that the crew accomplished on the lower portion Parks like Yellowstone, Grand of the trail during 2015, including new stone steps through Canyon, and Yosemite are Arch Rock. also reporting significant in- creases of 16%, 13%, and 5%, respectively. Across the entire Remote Area Closed to Help Bats park system, 9.5 million more Low gas prices and the excitement surrounding the 2016 National people have visited the parks Park Service Centennial have people flocking to their parks. THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE has closed the White year-to-date in 2015 compared to 2014. Oak Sinks area again this winter to help protect overwin- t looks like 2015 will go about national parks?” Everitt Iinto the record books as the asked. And the uptick isn’t lim- tering bats from disturbance by humans. Much of the busiest year in the entire his- The Find Your Park ited only to cars on the roads park’s bat population has been decimated by White-Nose tory of Great Smoky Moun- campaign is part of the 2016 at our parks, monuments, Syndrome, a disease that harms bats during hibernation. By tains National Park. As of the National Park Service Cen- and seashores. In the Smokies closing the area, park biologists hope to increase the winter end of October, park visita- tennial celebration being year-to-date, backcountry camping is up 11.5% and survival rates of bats, some of which are officially threat- tion was running at a 5.6% coordinated by the National increase over 2014, which was Park Foundation. Although camping in “frontcountry” ened or endangered. itself one of the busiest years the 100th birthday is in 2016, developed campgrounds has in park history. the commemoration began risen by 10%. GSMA Director Retires After 25 Years If this rate of increase holds through December, the New Historic Preservation final tally will surpass 10.6 TERRY MADDOX, EXECUTIVE Director of Great million visits, beating the old Center Opens this Spring Smoky Mountains Association since 1990, is retiring at the visitation record by well over end of 2015. Under his leadership the nonprofit has grown 350,000 people. And since onstruction is nearing be studied by park staff and exponentially and now provides over $1 million in support the Smokies are already the Ccompletion on a new visiting researchers. to the Smokies each year. His accomplishments include most-visited national park in park facility that will preserve The collection includes the country, a record for the funding the construction of Oconaluftee Visitor Center 418,000 artifacts and 1.3 mil- pre-historic projectile points, Smokies is a record for the lion archival records docu- logging-era equipment, vin- and the opening of visitor centers in Bryson City, Gatlin- entire national park system. menting the history of Great tage weapons, clothing, farm burg, and on Clingmans Dome. What makes the Smokies Smoky Mountains National implements, tools and other so popular this year? Brent Park and four other Park Ser- possessions that would have Your Cell Phone May Not Work Here Everitt, park ranger and vice areas in East Tennessee. been found on the farmsteads spokesperson, says it’s been The 14,000 square foot of the southern Appala- a combination of factors. collections preservation center chians in pre-park days. The BECAUSE OF THE MOUNTAINOUS terrain and lack “Almost perfect weather, is located on land adjacent to collection also includes oral of local cell phone towers, your cell phone will likely not especially during spring and the Great Smoky Mountains histories of southern Appala- find service in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. fall, certainly contributed,” Heritage Center in Townsend. chian speech, folklore, official Everitt said. He also credits Don’t rely solely on your cell phone for navigating or The new facility centralizes documents, photographs, and the “Find Your Park” media irreplaceable materials in a stories. Having these artifacts emergencies when driving or hiking in the park. Carry a blitz with attracting people to secure, climate-controlled more accessible will also map and compass and know how to use them. Cell phone the Smokies and other parks. space in which they will be allow more opportunities for service is most likely to be found on ridge tops. “How often have you seen preserved, as well as office the NPS to share items with T.V. and radio announcements and lab space where they can approved public museums.

6 v smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 www.SmokiesInformation.org A Field Guide to Your National Park System

by the Sinagua, a pre-Colum- bian cultural group that lived

NPS PHOTO NPS PHOTO in Walnut Canyon from about 1100 to 1250 CE.

NATIONAL PARKWAYS (4) Example: Natchez Trace, Ala- bama, Mississippi, Tennessee. Commemorates the historic Old Natchez Trace, an ancient buffalo trail used by Native Americans and 18th century European-Americans for commerce. Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. Sunset at Fort Pickens in Gulf Islands National Seashore. NATIONAL PRESERVES (19) cross our nation, from NATIONAL Example: Little River northern Alaska to HISTORICAL PARKS

NPS PHOTO Canyon, Alabama. This ver- the Virgin Islands, (49) dant, biologically-diverse area fromA Acadia to Zion, the Example: Cumberland Gap, includes one of the deepest National Park Service is re- Kentucky, Tennessee, Virgin- canyons in the eastern U.S. sponsible for protecting 409* ia. Starting around 1775, this of America’s most beautiful mountain pass became the NATIONAL RECRE- natural areas and most signif- primary route for American ATION AREA (18) icant historic places. Here is settlers moving west into Example: Chattahoochee a sampler of the diversity of Kentucky. River, Georgia. This 48-mile public lands that have been stretch of river offers public set aside and protected by the NATIONAL recreation and access to his- National Park Service “for the HISTORIC SITES (78) toric sites. benefit and enjoyment of the Example: Anderson- people.” ville, Georgia. The Camp Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. NATIONAL RIVER (15) Example: Big South Fork, Example: Appalachian Trail, NATIONAL Kentucky, Tennessee. The Big

NPS PHOTO Georgia to Maine. 2,180 miles MEMORIALS (30) South Fork of the Cumber- of foot trail along the crest of Example: Flight 93, land River region contains the Appalachian Mountains Pennsylvania. Commemo- one of the highest concentra- (see page 13). rates the site of the crash of tions of natural bridges in the United Airlines Flight 93, eastern U.S. NATIONAL BATTLE- which was hijacked in the FIELDS (11) September 11 attacks. NATIONAL Example: Moores SEASHORE (10) Creek Park, North Carolina. NATIONAL Example: Gulf Islands, Commemorates the 1776 MILITARY PARK (9) Florida, Misissippi. Offers victory by a thousand Patriots Example: Kings Moun- recreation opportunities and over about eight hundred tain, North Carolina, preserves natural and historic Loyalists at the Battle of South Carolina. Commem- The commemorative courtyard, entitled “The Price of Freedom Fully resources along the Gulf of Moore’s Creek Bridge. orates the Battle of Kings Paid” serves as a memorial to all prisoners of war at Andersonville Mexico barrier islands. Mountain, a pivotal victory National Historic Site. NATIONAL by American Patriots over NATIONAL MALL LAKESHORES (4) American Loyalists during AND MEMORIAL NATIONAL PARKS Sumter military prison at Example: Sleeping Bear the Southern Campaign of the PARKS (20) (59) Andersonville was one of the Dunes, Michigan. Sunny Revolutionary War. Example: Korean War Veterans Example: Grand Teton, largest Confederate military beaches and sky-high dunes. Memorial, Washington, D.C. Wyoming. Preserves the prisons during the Civil War. Cool forests and inland lakes. NATIONAL Commemorates those who magnificent Grand Teton Picturesque farmsteads and a MONUMENTS (80) served in the Korean War. mountain range and the NATIONAL historic maritime village. Example: Walnut Can- HISTORIC AND wildlife-rich valley of Jackson yon, Arizona. Includes 25 cliff *As of fall, 2015. Not all categories of Hole. SCENIC TRAILS (3) dwelling rooms constructed parks are listed here.

smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 v 7 1915 1916 Visitation Congress and Woodrow Wilson pass to the Organic Act creating the National NATIONAL national Park Service whose job it is: “To conserve parks the scenery and the natural and historic hits objects and the wild life therein and…leave 314,000. them unimpaired for the enjoyment of PARKS future generations.” 2014 Visitation to national TIMELINE parks hits 293 million. 1894 1956 2004 NPS launches Mission 66, a ten-year 1978 Poacher Ed Howell Badlands Great Sand Dunes program to improve park facilities to is nabbed skinning National Park National Park established. Celebrating meet the surge in park visitation. a dozen bison in established. Yellowstone. The story goes national 1946 100 Years The end of W.W. II 1963 2000 and the Lacey Act unleashes a surge The Leopold Report, Visitation to parks is passed “to protect of visitors into the which guides wildlife tops 285 million. of Service 1872 the birds and animals management in parks, Yellowstone parks. Even with in Yellowstone…” is published. National Park 1903 1921 all the infrastructure established. 1899 African-American Hot Springs the CCC accomplished, 1990 Mount Rainier Buffalo Soldiers ride designated park facilities are 1970 Visitation to Visitation to 1890 National Park into Yosemite and national park. overwhelmed. parks tops parks tops Yosemite established. Sequoia national Photo Credits: Great Smoky 168 million. 255 million. National parks to drive out 1933 Mountains National Park cabin Park timber thieves and Horace Albright convinces Franklin D. Roosevelt by Gary Wilson. Family hiking established. poachers, and to to allow the NPS to absorb all national ba lefields by David Lu rell. All others are NPS photos. fight wildfires and into the park system. 200,000 Civilian Conservation build trails. Corps (CCC) enrollees start building trails, roads, and other facilities in the national parks. 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020 1875 1885 1895 1905 1915 1925 1935 1945 1955 1965 1975 1985 1995 2005 2015 1915 2003 Rocky Congaree National 1897 Mountain 1929 Park established. Robbers hold National Park Arches and 1950 1972 up six stage- established. Grand Teton Visitation to parks NPS opens coaches national first “urban” 1994 tops 32 million. Death Valley and 1891 packed with monuments/ park sites. The U.S. Joshua Tree national Yellowstone parks Army stations parks established. 1886 tourists. established. U.S. Cavalry soldiers at major 1980 called in to Yellowstone 1906 1934 Antiquities Act Great Smoky Alaska National Interest Lands protect national geyser basins 1964 passes to Mountains The Wilderness Conservation Act preserves 104 parks. to deter vandalism by tourists. 1902 protect National Park Act passes. million acres of parkland in Alaska. Crater Lake Southwestern established. Visitation to parks tops 220 million. National Park cultural sites established. from artifact 1960 looters. The Act Visitation to 2010 allows presidents parks tops Visitation to to create national 71 million. parks tops monuments. 281 million.

1919 Acadia, Zion, and Grand Canyon 2016 national National Park Service parks embarks on “second established. century of service.”

8 v smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 1915 1916 Visitation Congress and Woodrow Wilson pass to the Organic Act creating the National NATIONAL national Park Service whose job it is: “To conserve parks the scenery and the natural and historic hits objects and the wild life therein and…leave 314,000. them unimpaired for the enjoyment of PARKS future generations.” 2014 Visitation to national TIMELINE parks hits 293 million. 1894 1956 2004 NPS launches Mission 66, a ten-year 1978 Poacher Ed Howell Badlands Great Sand Dunes program to improve park facilities to is nabbed skinning National Park National Park established. Celebrating meet the surge in park visitation. a dozen bison in established. Yellowstone. The story goes national 1946 100 Years The end of W.W. II 1963 2000 and the Lacey Act unleashes a surge The Leopold Report, Visitation to parks is passed “to protect of visitors into the which guides wildlife tops 285 million. of Service 1872 the birds and animals management in parks, Yellowstone parks. Even with in Yellowstone…” is published. National Park 1903 1921 all the infrastructure established. 1899 African-American Hot Springs the CCC accomplished, 1990 Mount Rainier Buffalo Soldiers ride designated park facilities are 1970 Visitation to Visitation to 1890 National Park into Yosemite and national park. overwhelmed. parks tops parks tops Yosemite established. Sequoia national Photo Credits: Great Smoky 168 million. 255 million. National parks to drive out 1933 Mountains National Park cabin Park timber thieves and Horace Albright convinces Franklin D. Roosevelt by Gary Wilson. Family hiking established. poachers, and to to allow the NPS to absorb all national ba lefields by David Lu rell. All others are NPS photos. fight wildfires and into the park system. 200,000 Civilian Conservation build trails. Corps (CCC) enrollees start building trails, roads, and other facilities in the national parks. 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020 1875 1885 1895 1905 1915 1925 1935 1945 1955 1965 1975 1985 1995 2005 2015 1915 2003 Rocky Congaree National 1897 Mountain 1929 Park established. Robbers hold National Park Arches and 1950 1972 up six stage- established. Grand Teton Visitation to parks NPS opens coaches national first “urban” 1994 tops 32 million. Death Valley and 1891 packed with monuments/ park sites. The U.S. Joshua Tree national Yellowstone parks Army stations parks established. 1886 tourists. established. U.S. Cavalry soldiers at major 1980 called in to Yellowstone 1906 1934 Antiquities Act Great Smoky Alaska National Interest Lands protect national geyser basins 1964 passes to Mountains The Wilderness Conservation Act preserves 104 parks. to deter vandalism by tourists. 1902 protect National Park Act passes. million acres of parkland in Alaska. Crater Lake Southwestern established. Visitation to parks tops 220 million. National Park cultural sites established. from artifact 1960 looters. The Act Visitation to 2010 allows presidents parks tops Visitation to to create national 71 million. parks tops monuments. 281 million.

1919 Acadia, Zion, and Grand Canyon 2016 national National Park Service parks embarks on “second established. century of service.”

smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 v 9 Q & A with the Superintendent Cassius Cash, Superintendent of Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Q: The National Park Ser- That’s why “Find vice turns 100 years old in Your Park” is 2016. What does that mean the theme of our to you? Centennial. It’s an individual thing. A: If we don’t create the next generation of national We’re looking at park users, advocates, and this as the right time to reach out supporters, I think the urban areas. And I plan on to audiences that haven’t work we’ve done in the hiking 100 miles myself, traditionally been park vis- first 100 years of the Na- split between the North itors, or park employees, tional Park Service will be Carolina and Tennessee for that matter. in vain. You protect what sides of the park. you value. If you haven’t Q: How are you going to visited parks and public We’re also working with celebrate the Centennial in lands in your formative our partners on some the Smokies? years, you run the risk beautiful publications of not knowing or caring commemorating the first A: There are going to be about them. 100 years. Plus we’re de- some fun events like Smok- veloping a lot of commem- ies Centennial Challenge: As I get older, I realize I orative merchandise that Hike 100 where partici- want to be doing some- will be featured in the vis- pants log their miles and thing that lasts beyond me. itor center stores and will earn a special reward. We At this point in history, benefit the Smokies and especially want to involve with the Park Service the whole park system. turning 100, I want to tell families from nearby my daughters that I left the Smokies a better place than when I found it. There’s a lot riding on this. I don’t want to be the one to let this go. BILL LEA PHOTO

Q: What does the Second DAVID LUTTRELL PHOTO LUTTRELL DAVID Century of the National Park Service look like? The following goals have been officially A: When the National adopted by the National Park Service to guide Park Service was created, the agency and its partners and volunteers the country was 50 percent into 2016 and beyond. urban. Now it’s 80 percent urban. The Park Service is a very traditional organization—and we honor 1. Connect people to parks and help communities protect those traditions. But we what is special to them. need to hand the NPS arrowhead over to the next 2. Advance our educational mission based on core American generation and let each values, historical and scientific scholarship, and unbiased person define his or her translation of the complexities of the American experience. own park experience.

3. Preserve America’s special places and be a leader in We don’t want to try too extending the benefits of conservation across physical, social, hard to define what we political, and international boundaries. think a park experience should be. Our millennials Many Americans today grow up in cities and have only a limited 4. Enhance professional and organizational excellence by are very different, their exposure to wild places like the Great Smoky Mountains. Super- adapting to the changing needs of visitors, communities, values are very differ- intendent Cash and the National Park Service are especially en- and partners. ent. They approach the thusiastic about offering urban youth the opportunity to explore outdoors a lot differently. the great outdoors.

10 v smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 great hikes with views suggested day hikes in the Smokies with wintertime views

ust about any trail in JGreat Smoky Mountains National Park offers pretty good views in winter. After all, most of the park is covered with dense deciduous forest, and when the trees drop their leaves, an expansive world of ridges, valleys, and old settlements is revealed. Here are some of the better day hikes in the Smokies with good to excellent winter views.

EASIER Cucumber Gap Loop MODERATE Thomas Divide STRENUOUS wA 5.5 mile loop hike start- rThe trail starts 3 miles Look Rock Tower ing from Little River trailhead Rich Mountain Loop south of Newfound Gap on Alum Cave qThe half-mile paved trail near Elkmont Campground. eAn 8.5 mile loop hike Newfound Gap Road in a large yThe 2.3 mile hike to to Look Rock observation The loop includes portions of starting at the entrance to Cades parking area. Follow the trail Inspiration Point and Alum tower is located off the Foothills Little River, Cucumber Gap, Cove Loop Road. Follow Rich out and back to the junction Cave Bluff offers good views Parkway West between Walland and Jakes Creek trails. There is Mountain Loop Trail to Indian with Kanati Fork Trail for good of the West Prong river valley. and Chilhowee Lake. The tower one small creek crossing that Grave Gap Trail and on to views of the North Carolina Start this trail at one of the large offers excellent views of the can be challenging during high Crooked Arm Ridge Trail. Of- Smokies. 3.6 miles roundtrip. parking areas 6.8 miles south Smokies and Tennessee Valley. water. fers good views of Cades Cove. of Sugarlands Visitor Center on Sugarland Mountain Newfound Gap Road. tStart this trail from Little River Road 4 miles west of Charlies Bunion Dress for Winter Success Sugarlands Visitor Center. uFollow the Appalachian Parking is the same as for Laurel Trail 4.0 miles north from New- Winter weather is extremely variable in the Smokies. Days Falls Trail trailhead. Follow the found Gap parking area to this may be sunny and 70° F or well below 0° F (in the high coun- Sugarland Mountain Trail out famous rock outcrop. During try) with howling winds. In case you haven’t recently needed to and back to the junction with cold weather this trail will be dress for chilly winter weather, here are some tips. Huskey Gap Trail for good very icy and dangerous. Ice cleats views of Mt. Le Conte and The may be required. 1. Avoid wearing cotton, especially next to your skin (e.g. Sugarlands. 6.2 miles roundtrip. T-shirts, sweatshirts, socks). When cotton becomes wet from precipitation or perspiration it will not keep you warm. 2. Dress in layers. Avoid getting too warm or cold by wearing several light layers of clothing that can be easily removed or added. Materials such as wool, polypropylene or “fleece” are excellent for layering because they provide warmth even when Winter Hiking Safety damp. 3. Wear a hat, gloves, and warm socks. In addition to proper clothing, hikers should always bring water, a 4. Always carry good rain gear. Getting wet can quickly map, snacks, a flashlight, and matches. Keep in mind that cell phones lead to hypothermia. Rain gear also makes a good windbreaker. often do not work in the park because of terrain and lack of towers. Always let someone responsible know where you plan to go and when JIM THOMPSON PHOTO you plan to return.

smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 v 11 wintering How did families on mountain farms cope with the dark, cold days of winter?

GSMNP archives photos Lessons Learned gallons were confiscated by rang- Winter days were often school ers on park property near Cosby. days in the Great Smoky Moun- They were often concealed in tains of the mid-1800s. Winter rhododendron thickets or partially was when children were needed buried in the ground. the least on the farm, so it was the logical time to hit the books. Tapping In the early days, the school Maple Syrup year lasted only 2-4 months. Sugarland Mountain, Sugar Parents paid about $1 per Orchard Branch, Maple Sugar student per month to get their Gap, The Sugarlands, and other children educated. The money park places were all named for (or produce in lieu of cash) went sugar maple trees and the sweet to a teacher who often boarded sap they relinquish for the mak- with a local family. ing of maple syrup and sugar. Most students completed Tapping sugar maples was only 3-5 years of schooling, once a fairly common enterprise enough to learn to read and in the Smokies and elsewhere in write and perform basic mathe- the Southern Highlands. Native matics. By the early 20th centu- Americans used maple sap and ry, however, Smoky Mountain sugar to season meats and grains schools and school years more and to make candy and bever- closely resembled today’s. ages. During the 19th and early Two country schools are In the days before television, movies, the internet, iPods, video games, Facebook, Instagram, smart 20th centuries, mountain farm preserved in the national park, phones, tablets, and YouTube, people could still make their own music for entertainment. families maintained areas in the Little Greenbrier (near Metcalf forest they called “sugar camps” Bottoms Picnic Area) and Beech or “sugar bushes” for the produc- Cabin Fever Grove in Cataloochee Valley. tion of syrup and sugar. The homes of 19th century These operations might farm families were usually small, Making include several dozen sugar while the families themselves maples that had been grooved were often large. The typical log Moonshine and tapped to produce sap. They home was 18’ x 20’ (360 square Making corn whiskey would run wooden troughs from feet) plus, perhaps, a sleeping or “moonshine” was a fairly the trees to central buckets or loft. Families were frequently common way of earning cash barrels for efficient collection. multi-generational, including a for “store bought” goods in the Family members then carried the grandparent and five to 12 kids. mountains. Homemade whiskey sap in buckets to a shed which During periods of cold, and brandy were perfectly legal housed a stone furnace and large snowy, or rainy weather, families during most of the 1880s. Later metal evaporator pan. were forced to spend most of it became a way to dodge liquor One good-sized tree could the day indoors. Dorie Wood- taxes, and, from 1920-1933, produce about 20 gallons of sap ruff Cope, who spent her child- Prohibition made moonshining per year or about 3/4 gallon of hood and young adulthood in very risky and very profitable. maple syrup. the Smokies, described winter Kids really did walk miles to school when school was in session. According to one source, Many Smoky Mountain this way: And sometimes it was snowing and sometimes they were barefoot. Prohibition-era moonshiners residents described the best time “So we waited. Snow came earned up to $20 per gallon, but to tap maples as “after the first two or three times a week Light sources other than the the ballads were from the British getting caught often resulted in a snow of spring” and when the to add inches to the blanket fireplace or open door included Isles and were about love or death, year or more in the penitentiary. strong, warm late winter/early already on the ground. Silence burning pine knots, homemade or religious faith. Ballads told Following repeal, prices dropped spring winds roar down from the hung over the mountains like candles, saucers of oil with stories and sometimes included to around $2 per gallon. mountains. The tapping season a misty fog.... Wind whistled wicks, and kerosene lamps. lessons on life. Examples are “The Whether moonshining was could last from two to eight around the corners of the cabin Drunkard’s Last Drink,” “Barbara more prevalent in the Southern weeks. and down the chimney, causing Allen,” “Pretty Pollie,” “Geordie,” mountains than elsewhere in the Maple syrup and sugar were the fire to reach out of the Making Music “Young Hunting,” and “Bold country is a matter of debate. commodities that farm families fireplace and fill the room with Mountain folk knew lots Soldier.” However, Cocke County, at the could consume themselves or ashes. Ma kept beans and meat of songs and enjoyed singing The most common types of eastern end of the Smoky Moun- trade at a country store for cash boiling in a kettle.” ballads at home during winter, musical instruments were fiddles tains, was frequently championed or merchandise. Stores were Most, but not all cabins, often solo and unaccompanied and banjos and later on, guitars. as the “Moonshine Capital of good places to obtain salt, coffee, had a few windows for light. by musical instruments. Many of America.” Stills as large as 500 tobacco, nails, and cloth.

12 v smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 Hiking the A.T. 72 miles of the famed footpath are in the park

he Appalachian Trail is The “Walk in arguably the world’s the Woods” most famous footpath. Effect TravelersT who happen upon BILL LEA PHOTO it in Georgia, North Caroli- During 2016, officials na, New Jersey, or any of the at the ATC and the other 11 states it traverses, National Park Service can’t help but wonder what predict foot traffic on it would be like to abandon the A.T. will increase their everyday lives for five even further. Their to seven months and immerse expectations stem themselves in the Appala- from the release of the chian wilderness. 2015 film, “A Walk in Most of those who have the Woods” starring Park officials are bracing for a surge of thru-hikers this spring. chucked it all and attempted Robert Redford and hiking the entire 2,189-mile- Nick Nolte, a come- Park at Fontana Dam. The visit www.smokiespermits. long trail will tell you the task dy about old friends park hosts 72 miles of the nps.gov or call 865-436-1297. is more difficult than they reuniting to take on Appalachian Trail, including had expected. Although the the challenging trek. its zenith at Clingmans Dome. A.T. stays to the ridgetops Hiking the A.T. in The movie is based on Because backcountry for much of its length, there the book of the same campsites and shelter spaces the Smokies is a relentless gain and loss name by Bill Bryson, in the national park are limit- of elevation. The trail tread Most people who hike the and when it was ed, as is the carrying capacity is notoriously rocky. And it Appalachian Trail aren’t published in 1998, the of the trail itself, the NPS rains a lot. thru-hikers, they are day number of feet on the and ATC are already taking Of the estimated 2,500 hikers or backpackers out A.T. jumped by 60% actions to better accommo- prospective northbound th- for a weekend or a week in over the following two date an influx of hikers while ru-hikers who departed from the mountains. For many years. preserving the fragile Appa- Springer Mountain, Georgia adventurers, hiking the A.T. By mid-March lachian high country. Some in 2014, about half made it as it should be appar- through the Smokies is the thru-hikers are being encour- trip of a lifetime, yet can be far as the mid-point in Harp- OF ATC MAP COURTESY ent whether or not a aged to start from a mid- ers Ferry, West Virginia and done in 6-8 nights. stampede of hikers point, hike to Maine, then only 25% made it all the way The 72-mile section of the trail in the 1920s. Volun- will be hitting the “flip-flop” and hike from the to Mount Katahdin in Baxter the A.T. through the nation- teers from the ATC and other trail in 2016. That’s when mid-point south to Georgia. A State Park in Maine. al park is one of the most organizations are constant- the first wave of northbound hike is considered an “offi- Statistics kept by the Ap- scenic and rigorous of the ly improving the pathway thru-hikers flocks to Springer cial” thru-hike if one traverses palachian Trail Conservancy, entire trail. Smokies hikers through upgrades and Mountain, Georgia to start the entire length of the A.T., the official nonprofit steward enjoy numerous grassy balds, reroutes. Modern, lightweight the mass mi- in any order, in 12 months of the trail, indicate that the knife-edge ridge tops, wide, backpacking equipment, gration. By or less. Such an alternate number of people hiking the primeval viewsheds, a Cana- including freeze-dried foods, mid-April route is appealing to those entire A.T. has “risen dramat- dian zone ecosystem, and the have reduced average pack the early hikers wishing to avoid the ically over the years.” From opportunity to explore one of weights by as much as 50%. bird hikers crowds and would help 1936 to 1969, a total of only the most biologically diverse Cell phones make communi- should have alleviate spring bottlenecks 59 successful thru-hikes were areas in the temperate world. cations and logistics easier. made it to in places like the Smokies. recorded. In 2014 alone, 653 If you do chose to hike the Still, equipment and technolo- Mile 160— All thru-hikers and other people went all the way. Smokies A.T., the best time to gy alone won’t carry you and the southern backcountry campers are And in some important do so is mid-May to early No- your pack up one ridge and boundary of required to have a reserva- ways, thru-hiking the A.T. vember when conflicts with down the next. Great Smoky tion and a permit to camp has gotten a little easier since winter weather and thru-hik- Mountains in the Smokies. To do so, Benton MacKaye conceived of National ers are minimal.

smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 v 13 if you love the smokies... help protect and preserve a true American masterpiece become a support the member friends Friends of Great Smoky Since 1953, Great Smoky JOHN DICKSON PHOTO Mountains Association Mountains National Park has sup- is a nonprofit organization ported the that assists the National Park educational, Service by raising funds and scientific, public awareness and pro- and historical efforts of the National Park Ser- vice through cash donations and in-kind services. In 2016 alone, the association plans to provide more than $1 million in assistance that includes saving hemlock trees, re- storing historic buildings, environmental education viding volunteers for park programs, backcountry staff, projects. and historic preservation. Since 1993, Friends has Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of the few large national parks without an entrance fee. Most Association members raised over $35 million for parks now charge $30 per vehicle. Without this supplemental income, it is difficult for the Smokies to ade- park projects and programs. receive a number of benefits quately protect wildlife, preserve historic areas, and provide educational opportunities. You can help by using These donations help: to keep them informed about some of the money you saved at the entrance to support the park partners on this page. special events in the park and • protect elk, bear, brook issues affecting the Smokies: field school gsmi at tremont summer camps trout, and other wildlife • Subscription to the semi-an- • improve trails, campsites, nual, full-color magazine and backcountry shelters An exciting variety of adven- Great Smoky Mountains Great Smoky Mountains Smokies Life • support educational pro- tures await adults who long Institute at Tremont provides Institute at Tremont offers • Exclusive digital access to grams for school children to get out and explore the residential environmental a variety of summer youth the award-winning quarter- • improve visitor facilities park accompanied by expert education programs in Great camps in the national park. ly park newspaper, Smokies • fund special educational guides. Programs are offered Smoky Mountains National Camps last from 6-11 days Guide, the association’s news- services like the park movie by the Smoky Mountain Field Park. Up to 5,000 students and cost from $572. Fees letter, The Bearpaw, and many • preserve log cabins and School and include Mt. Le and adults annually attend include meals, lodging, and other members-only features other historic structures. Conte overnights, wildlife workshops and school most equipment. • A 15-20% discount on Your donation can help workshops, edible plants, programs at the Institute. Next year’s offerings in- books, music, gifts, and other make these projects a reali- wildflower photography, Tremont’s adult workshops clude: Discovery Camp (ages products sold at park visitor ty. Put a few coins or a few animal tracking, bird watch- include birding, backpacking, 9-12), Wilderness Adventure centers and at our web store dollars in one of the dona- ing, salamanders, mountain environmental education, Trek, Girls in Science (ages • Discounts up to 20% at tion boxes located at visitor cooking, and more. One day naturalist weekends, and 12-15), and Teen High Adven- more than 400 national park centers, roadsides, and other programs start at as little as photography. Contact (865) ture (ages 13-17). bookstores across the country locations around the park. $79. Contact: (865) 974-0150 or 448-6709 or www.gsmit.org Contact: (865) 448-6709 or Buy the Smokies license plate • Special discounts at area smfs.utk.edu www.gsmit.org rental cabins, inns, restau- for your car (available in Ten- nessee and North Carolina). rants, shops, and attractions “Get Rooted in the Smokies” • And most importantly, YES, I WANT TO JOIN GSMA! However you choose to the satisfaction of helping to Choose Your Membership Level: Name(s) ______give, your donation will really help protect the Great Smoky preserve nature and history ______in Great Smoky Mountains q Acorn (youth) Membership $15 Mountains for many years to Address ______National Park. q Buckeye Annual Membership $35 come! ______Join today using the cou- q Chestnut Annual Membership $100 Friends of the Smokies pon to the right or visit www. q Dogwood Membership $200 Email (for Cub Report) ______P.O. Box 1660, SmokiesInformation.org, Or Telephone # ______q Hemlock Lifetime Membership $1,000 Kodak, TN 37764 call us at 1-888-898-9102 x222. Please include your check with this form. Mail to: GSMA memberships start at q Annual Business Membership $250 (865) 932-4794 GSMA, P.O. Box 130, Gatlinburg, TN 37738 just $35 per year. 1-800-845-5665 www.friendsofthesmokies.org

14 v smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 Smokies Superlatives Great Smoky Mountains National Park has lots to brag about! GSMIT

drive for half of the nation’s Three “Long Trails!” population, Great Smoky Three of the nation’s most Mountains National Park has famous long distance hiking the highest visitation of any trails run through the Smokies, national park in the country. including The Appalachian There are between nine and ten Trail, Mountains-to-Sea Trail, Salamander Capital million visits to the park annu- and Benton MacKaye Trail. of the World! ally. The second most visited At least 30 species of salaman- national park is Grand Canyon, Bears and More Bears! ders live in the Smokies, more with 4.5 million annual visitors. With some 1,600 black bears than in any similar-sized area in this 800 square mile park, on earth. The park’s abundant Most Difficult Birth! the Smokies can boast one of rainfall, range of habitats, and Unlike many Western parks the densest populations of moderate climate make it the that were largely cobbled black bears in the world. perfect place for these mois- together from ture-loving amphibians. existing public lands, every Preserving History! acre that Culturally, the park has an became Great unequaled collection of log Smoky Moun- buildings, including large tains National two-story dwellings and Park was pri- working grist mills—over 100 vately owned Thousands of Plants! than any other U.S. national historic structures in all. at one time Because the park contains park. It also contains one of and had to a huge variety of habitats, the largest blocks of virgin World Famous! be appraised, it is home for some 1,500 temperate deciduous forest in The park is honored to be haggled over, species of flowering plants, North America. designated as an Internation- and purchased 10% of which are considered al Biosphere Reserve and a from families rare, and well over 4,000 Nowhere Else on Earth! World Heritage Site because or large companies. Established non-flowering plants such as Several species of plants of the significant value of its in 1934, the park was created mushrooms and mosses. and animals are found in the natural and cultural resources. from more than 6,000 tracts of Smokies, but nowhere else private and commercial land Fee Free! in the world. These species America’s Most that were purchased primarily The Smokies are one of the include a wildflower called Visited Park! with money raised by public very few major national parks Rugel’s ragwort and Jordan’s Located within a two-day and private donations. without an entrance fee. This (red-cheeked) salamander. anomaly can be traced back Species new to the scientific to the park’s main roads that community are found nearly were once owned by the states every year in the park. of North Carolina and Tennes- Why so many endemics see and were transferred to the in the Smokies? For one, the Park Service with stipulations mountain range has not been that no fee ever be charged. glaciated or inundated by Unfortunately, because of this oceans for millions and mil- restriction, the Smokies must lions of years. This has made get by on a budget that is a the area a sanctuary for a huge fraction of that of other large, variety of plants and animals. but much less-visited parks. Secondly, most of the endemics are in the park’s high eleva- More Trees! tions where the mountain top The park has 100 species of ecosystems stand like “islands native trees, more than all of in the sky,” isolated from simi- northern Europe and more lar populations elsewhere.

smokies guide, Winter 2015-16 v 15 winter travels for more information: www.nps.gov/grsm 441 snow routes emergencies hospitals regulations accessibility

For periods when Newfound Listed below are some num- Le Conte/Sevier County Picking or digging plants is Restrooms at all park visitor Gap Road (U.S. 441) is closed bers to call for emergencies (865) 446-7000, Middle Creek prohibited in the park. centers (Cades Cove, Oco- because of snow, alternate that arise after hours. Rd., Sevierville, TN. Persons feeding wildlife naluftee, and Sugarlands) are routes around the Smokies Park Headquarters Blount Memorial (865) 983- are subject to a $5,000 fine. fully accessible. The Sugar- are shown below. Commercial (865) 436-9171 7211, U.S. 321, Maryville, TN. Pets are not permitted lands Valley all-access nature traffic must use “Primary” Cherokee Police Haywood County (828) 456- on most park trails. Only the trail is located on Newfound routes. “Secondary” routes (828) 497-4131 7311, Waynesville, NC. Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee Gap Road just south of Sugar- are shorter but the roads are Gatlinburg Police Swain County (828) 488-2155, River trails allow dogs on a lands Visitor Center. more winding. (865) 436-5181 Bryson City, NC. leash.

Exit 417

SWAIN COUNTY VISITOR CENTER