Fashion Institute of Technology State University of New York and Fragrance Marketing and Management Master’s Degree Program This 2014 Capstone research paper is the work of graduate students, and any reproduction or use of this material requires written permission from the FIT CFMM Master's Program.

Capstone 2014 White Paper men’s beauty

Authors: Simone Bolotin (Coty Prestige), group leverage the changing roles, changing views, ently do not think seriously about a sophisti- leader; Colleen Celentano (L'Oréal), co-leader; and changing faces of the modern man to grow cated grooming routine. Renee Bukowski (IFF); Alexandra de Lara (The a more sophisticated men’s grooming market. Men’s lack of interest in grooming can also Estée Lauder Companies); Michael Kremer It will also outline a new model that will cap- be linked to evolutionary factors. Biologists (L'Oréal) ture men’s interest and loyalty, including key explain that historically for women, physical pillars critical for the growth of this opportunity- beauty was an evolutionary advantage that “To men a man is but a mind. Who cares what rich category. could lead to biological success by attracting face he carries or what he wears? But woman’s a mate. In her book, The Male Brain, neu- body is the woman.” History ropsychiatrist Louann Brizendine explains Ambrose Bierce, 1958 While the U.S. market has enjoyed success that “men have been biologically selected in selling men’s basic needs products, attempts over millions of years to focus on fertile Introduction to move into more sophisticated categories females,” with traits that indicate youth and Over the past decade, men’s grooming has have proved challenging. In order to move health (Brizendine, 2010). For men, however, been dubbed “the final frontier” of beauty, forward, the industry first needs to understand biological success was based on their ability to poised to take the industry by storm. With over why attempts to break through this barrier provide food for their mate. “The males who 138 million men in the United States compris- have been unsuccessful. showed they were willing to provide food got ing about 50% of the population (Census.gov, Historically, men have taken a need-based, more sexual access to the females, increasing 2014), it presents a true goldmine of untapped utilitarian approach to their personal care their chances of paternity” (Brizendine, 2010). users. But have brands been able to crack the products. Today, the categories with highest While women have an innate biological moti- men’s code? use among men are those that are essential vation for beautifying, for men, money, power Men’s grooming is a $35 billion global for maintaining basic hygiene. Once men have and other indicators of their ability to provide industry, with the U.S. holding a 17% share. identified a problem, they want a simple and can often take the place of good looks in the The $5.7 billion U.S. men’s grooming market quick solution. For example, deodorant is the mating game. has grown by 7% in the past five years, with a most commonly used product among men, As a society, our depictions of men in adver- focus on basic needs products such as deodor- with 92% reporting that they use it regularly tising and popular culture have not historically ant, shampoo, and bar soap. Meanwhile, the to protect themselves from odor and perspira- contributed to an environment ripe for chang- global men’s market has grown at 23%, more tion. Shampoo is the second most widely used ing the male mindset. In The Beauty Myth, than three times faster than the U.S. during category at 86%, followed by bar soap at 70%, author Naomi Wolf uses the stereotypical the same five-year span (Euromonitor, 2014). and shaving cream at 61% (Mintel, 2014). The depiction of a standard evening news team to South has grown at 67% and China at a U.S. men’s grooming industry has done an highlight the disparities between the accepted staggering 157%, driven primarily by sophisti- exceptional job of building these basic need appearance of men and women, describing cated categories such as skin care. If the U.S. categories, with a 38% dollar share of the “that double image—the older man, lined and grooming market had matched global growth, global men’s bath and shower market, thanks distinguished, seated beside a nubile, heavily it would already be a $7 billion industry today. to popular launches and advertising by Old made-up female junior” (Wolf, 2002). In the While historically it has been a challenge to Spice, Axe, and Dove Men+CARE. grooming industry, messaging has traditionally engage U.S. men in the categories that enjoy Aside from the practical uses, these catego- reinforced prevalent gender stereotypes. From success abroad, the economic crisis of 2008 ries have cultural significance as well. While Axe, to Old Spice, to the now defunct TAG has fueled major shifts in gender roles, behav- most women in the U.S. grew up learning how Body Spray brand, hyper-masculine or over iors, and attitudes among men. Men were most to apply and set their hair in curlers sexualized images have long been used to sell affected by the recession, with a job loss rate from their mothers and grandmothers, most basic needs products to men. nearly 50% higher than that of women, an eco- boys grew up learning about deodorant and While using stereotypes in advertising has nomic phenomenon coined “the mancession” basic hygiene in health class at school, or proven effective for basic needs categories, we (Investopedia, 2009). The current marketing teaching themselves to shave after observing are hitting a wall. In the past five years, the model does not reflect the authentic needs or their fathers and grandfathers. As a result, U.S. deodorant market was flat and the total values of the modern U.S. male consumer. getting men interested in products beyond the shave category grew by only 2% (Euromonitor, This paper will highlight opportunities to basics has been challenging, since they inher- 2014). The limitations of the U.S. market’s

1 the American male has evolved to encompass specific toiletries than on shaving products the “new masculinity.” Men today are more (Walker, 2014). dynamic, open-minded, and sophisticated than Changing Faces: The face and demograph- ever before. Gender roles are no longer clearly ics of the male consumer are also changing. defined, and the stereotypes of the past are The growth that is expected for older male age becoming less relevant. While men’s internal segments far surpasses that of the total popula- motivations may not have shifted, external tion, with men aged 55-64 expected to grow drivers are altering their wants, needs, and by 8% and men aged 65-74 expected to grow aspirations. The industry has reached a tipping by 21% by 2018 (Mintel, 2013). With Boomers Figure 1 point for men’s grooming as a direct result of and older demographics getting divorced at men’s changing roles, changing views, and increased rates and putting off retirement due changing faces (see Figure 2). to economic challenges, it could lead to men Changing Roles: Today, three out of four focusing more on their appearance in order to men agree that men and women don’t need compete with younger age groups. to conform to traditional roles and behaviors On the other end of the spectrum, millennial anymore, and that gender doesn’t define a men are more likely to accept products and person as much as it used to. As noted in JWT routines associated with women’s grooming, Intelligence’s The State of Men report, “With such as facial cleansers and moisturizers, gender roles blurring and many women work- compared to older generations (Mintel, 2013). ing as much as or more than their partners, Mintel’s research suggests that this is a positive Figure 2 the household is becoming more gender- indicator for the skin care segment and overall current approach is also apparent in its global neutral as men embrace an active role at home category in the future, since younger men will share of men’s skin care at only 8%, ten share or are pushed into it out of economic neces- likely continue to use skin care products as points less than any other U.S male cat- sity.” Household tasks and childcare are now they age. egory (Euromonitor, 2014). Globally, skin care commonly shared responsibilities. Research Population growth in both the African represents the biggest opportunity for men’s also shows that men are just as concerned as American and Hispanic male population will grooming, with 73% growth in the past five women with achieving a work-life balance. Two also be a positive market driver in the coming years alone. Currently, China leads the charge out of three men say they would stay home years. Both of these key demographics over- with 30% share, followed by Western Europe full time with their family if they could afford index in their use of several types of men’s at 21%, and at 19% (Euromonitor, to. Over 90% of men also express that part of personal care products, most notably skin care. 2014), (see Figure 1). being a man today is taking care of family and Forty-seven percent of African American men These facts are not surprising considering those around you (Berelowtiz, 2013). report that they buy male-specific offerings— how men’s skin care has traditionally been Changing Views: As men become more more than any other ethnic and racial segment launched in the U.S. Brands often try to recre- image-conscious, their perception of spending (Mintel, 2013). Targeting African American ate their women’s lines in a more masculine on fashion and grooming has also changed; and Hispanic men with relevant messaging form, using similar product offerings and men are placing higher stock in looking good. and product benefits will be critical for overall retail distribution models. While marketers are One out of three men say they actively choose category success in the coming years. comfortable having the standard moisturizer, to portray a particular look, and style them- Despite all this growth and opportunity, the eye product, cleanser, , and serum in the selves carefully to maintain it. Today, 76% of majority of brands are not focusing on men range, this strategy often proves overwhelm- men agree that males are under more pressure as a key target. Now is the time for brands to ing to men. This is clear by the number of than past generations to present a polished make a change. complicated men’s skin care lines that have not image. Some even say there is now as much succeeded in the U.S., including Gillette’s first pressure on men to dress well and be well- The 4G Growth Engine attempt in 2004, Old Spice in 2005, and even groomed as there is on women (Berelowtiz, As gender roles become increasingly Biotherm Homme, the number one brand 2013). NPD reported that for the last few dynamic and stereotypes become less and less globally, in 2006. years (with the exception of 2012), sales of relevant, men are searching for brands that From biological motivations to popular men’s apparel consistently outpaced growth in do not attempt to label them, but instead help depictions of accepted gender roles, men and women’s. Sales of men’s apparel reached $57 them to curate their own version of masculin- women have historically approached groom- billion in 2012 alone. Due to the emergence ity. Isabela de Mello of IDEO explains, “Many ing in vastly different ways. While American of digital resources such as fashion blogs and men are figuring out that what they were men have been successfully educated on basic online retailers, men are more aware than raised to be no longer works, and society has grooming needs, the challenge ahead is to ever of trends in clothing and accessories. not yet stepped in to support proper alterna- inspire men to adopt a more sophisticated skin New online retailers such as Bonobos and Mr. tives. Men are looking for options that appeal care regimen. Porter provide curated experiences allowing to their identities, roles, and behaviors.” There men to shop at their convenience. As men get are many more options for men today, and The Tipping Point more comfortable with fashion and being style- a variety of resources for men to learn about We have reached a pivotal time in the future conscious, they are also paying closer attention and purchase new items. What is missing is of men’s grooming. As a result of the econom- to their grooming habits. Last year marked the an authentic, personal, and cohesive to-market ic crisis of 2008, the attitudes and mindset of first time that men spent more cash on male- strategy that reflects the changing habits and

2 identities of the modern man. them back professionally (Hart, 2014). By truly As an industry, companies have spent understanding men’s authentic needs and the decades understanding and cultivating consequences associated with these needs, women’s needs, and educating them about brands have the ability to ignite long-term trust the consequences of not using their products. and loyalty. From serums to primers to peels, women today Steer: The second gear of the 4G Growth have complex regimens that address a laundry Engine is to steer men to more sophisticated list of needs and consequences that feel grooming purchases by leveraging the influen- authentic and necessary. However, the industry tial people and places that help to shape their Figure 3 has not communicated with men in this way. decision-making process. Currently, men see no consequences if they With the exception of fragrance, 90% of do not use grooming products. Through this men report that they make all or most of their highlighting their preference for ease and research, it has become clear that the road to own grooming purchases themselves (Bialik, accessibility. Research shows that 41% of growth is not through another purchase model. 2011). Research shows three key categories online shopping by affluent males is done on The industry needs a movement. of influencers: immediate family, peers, and Amazon.com (Honigman, 2013). In May 2013, The 4G Growth Engine (see Figure 3) significant others (Bialik, 2011). Immediate Amazon launched a men’s grooming shop includes four key pillars, represented by gears, family members have the most influence in featuring mass and prestige brands in the skin which are critical to success in men’s groom- shaping early product decisions such as shav- care, body care, and hair care categories. This ing. This new model addresses the authentic ing, deodorant, and body wash. strategy perfectly capitalizes on a man’s needs and habits of the male consumer, lever- Peers have a critical influencing role as a partiality to streamline the shopping journey as aging the people and places that matter to him man grows up. The number one influencer much as possible. Curated product selections most, with a communication style reflective of in a man’s grooming purchase is observing a support Amazon’s win in customer segmenta- the modern face of masculinity to help drive peer using a product (L'Oréal Men’s Grooming tion and exhibits potential to result in him towards a more sophisticated grooming Report, 2010), making it essential for brands to increased sales and market share. As the 2013 routine. target this group. FIT Capstone research on Digital Commerce Ignite: The first gear is based on igniting Significant others have proven most brought to light, it is necessary for brands the movement with an authentic approach to successful in motivating a man to try new today to encompass “convenience, technology, men’s needs. While women are driven by the categories (L'Oréal Men’s Grooming Report, excellent customer service, and rapid delivery” idea of “hope in a jar,” men are driven by the 2010). These are the people that brands must (Voyten et al., 2013), and this is particularly need to look powerful and experienced, both of educate and leverage to steer men towards true for men. If they lack resources to deploy which are only complemented by gray hair and more sophisticated products such as skin this infrastructure themselves, brands should fine lines. Brands must ignite men’s interest care. Not only do marketers need to under- be aiming to partner with e-tailers such as by identifying authentic needs and genuine stand men, it is also essential to understand Amazon and eBay to ensure they are truly consequences. what is driving these key influencers as well. steering men to purchase their products with When a coach of the Florida Gators football Jacqueline Nam, Marketing Manager of SK-II the right value proposition and discoverability team discovered that his players were being Men, shared research that suggests some (Voyten et al., 2013). negatively affected by heat related illnesses, women feel insecure when their partner tries Comparably, marketers must also think he worked with a team of researchers to cre- to improve his looks. Brands should consider mobile-first design, with 68% of male smart- ate a carbohydrate-electrolyte beverage that incentivizing women through male and female phone users likely to make purchases thanks to would replace the key components lost by combined sets, loyalty cards, or GWPs in order mobile ads (Honigman, 2013). It is no surprise players through dehydration (Gatorade.com, to motivate them to encourage their partner that subscription commerce services like 2014). Gatorade has since ignited the loyalty to purchase men’s products. (Nam, Jacqueline Dollar Shave Club, Trunk Club, and Five Four of thirsty athletes and civilians alike with this 2014). Club are growing in popularity, as they allow simple solution to a genuine problem, com- Brands can also steer men to purchase by men to get exactly what they need in a stream- manding 46% of the worldwide sports drink being present where and when he needs a lined way (Izquieta, 2012). Rather than adding market (Forbes, 2014). Gatorade is an excel- grooming solution. Men are not shopping for an extra step by creating another grooming lent example of a brand that has successfully grooming products on the women’s cosmetics specific offering, brands should consider part- targeted an authentic, universal, yet previously floor; 65% of purchases are currently being nering with fashion services to provide men untapped need. made at mass merchandisers, supercenters, the ability to purchase grooming in a place In grooming, brands often assume that warehouse clubs, dollar stores, and off-price where they are already shopping. men’s needs are the same as women’s, missing retailers (Mintel, 2013). Men are driven by Fuel: Next, brands must fuel the movement a major opportunity to appeal to their unique ease, access, and trust in their retail environ- via imagery and communications that appeal drivers. Dr. Ivona Percec, Professor of plastic ment (Izquieta, 2012). For brick-and-mortar, to men on a personal level. New research has and reconstructive surgery at the Hospital brands can maximize presence and education found that today, exaggerated male stereotypes of the University of Pennsylvania, reports efforts at local barbershops, gyms, airports, and have a negative impact on men’s willingness that the most common reason men request clothing stores—environments where men feel to try a product (Otnes & Tuncay-Zayer, 2012). Botox is not that they fear looking older, but comfortable, and are already thinking about In a recent survey, an astonishing 65% of men that they had been told they looked angry and their image. responded that, “No commercial portrayals of feared that as a consequence it would hold E-commerce is also critical for men, men are accurate” (Étienne, 2014). Companies

3 THE TIPPINGPOINT - We have reached a pivotal time in the future of men’s grooming as a result of the economic crisis of 2008 - Men today are more dynamic, open-minded, and sophisticated than ever before - Gender roles are no longer clearly defined, and the stereotypes of the past are becoming less relevant - While men’s internal motivations may not have shifted, external drivers are altering their wants, needs, and aspirations

Simone Bolotin (Coty Prestige) Colleen Celentano (L’Oréal) Colleen Celentano (L’Oréal) Renee Bukowski (IFF) Alexandra de Lara (The Estée (The de Lara Alexandra Lauder Companies) Michael (L’Oréal) Kremer

Figure 4. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs must create campaigns centered on the mod- ern depictions of realistic male roles, such as CHANGING CHANGING CHANGING “The Dad”, the “Dedicated Partner,” and the ROLES VIEWS FACES Three out of four men agree that “Open Minded Millennial.” - Men are placing higher stock in - Growth expected for older male age men and women don’t need to - looking good segments far outpaces total conform to traditional roles and 76% of men agree that males are under population To promote their Chrome web browser, behaviors anymore - more pressure than past generations - Millennial men are more accepting of Gender doesn’t define a person as - to present a polished image products and routines associated Google appealed to men’s softer side with an much as it used to with women’s grooming - Growing African American and ad called “Dear Sophie,” which depicts a father Hispanic male populations are early adopters sending his daughter photos, emails, and 4G GROWTHENGINE - Includes four gears critical to success in men’s grooming, representing a network of interdependent actions other memories in Gmail from the day she - Addresses the authentic needs of the male consumer, leveraging the people and places that matter to him most, with a communication style reflective of the modern face of masculinity to help drive him towards a more sophisticated grooming routine was born for her to read when she is older. By portraying technology as a facilitator of love, Google connected with men, not by highlight- ing technical benefits like speed or new apps, IGNITE STEER FUEL ACCELERATE but by forging an emotional and relatable connection that appealed to men’s desire to be good fathers (Miller, 2011). In grooming, don’t - Identify authentic needs and ! - Leverage key influencers - Utilize imagery and - Focus on one hero product at a genuine consequences for - Be present in the right places, communications reflective of the time, building momentum, hide the men. Men must be present in beauty grooming product non-use at the right times in a man’s dynamic state of masculinity sophistication, trust, and loyalty - Introduce simple solutions with life over time a reason to believe Focus on ease, accessibility, GROOMING - and grooming campaigns and POS visuals at and trust all touch points. Combining modern imag- ery reflective of the “new masculinity” with products that target authentic needs is key to GROWTHPROJECTIONS fueling a more sophisticated men’s grooming Men’s Grooming US Forecast - There are 106 million men in the U.S. that fall into $10000 the key target demographic ages of 14-65 market. $9400 - This group is estimated to use only one product per day with a repurchase rate of approximately $8800 Accelerate: Once the male consumer five times per year, creating a market size of $5.7 billion $8200 has been engaged, the final gear of the 4G - With the current growth rate of 1.8% per year, the $7600 market is projected to reach $7.6 billion by 2030 $7000 By 2030, there will be 120 million men in the U.S.

- $ Billions Growth Engine is to accelerate, helping him to ages 14-65 $6400 - If we are able to increase their yearly product $5800 move up a level on the hierarchy of groom- purchase number from five to seven, at an average of $10 each, the U.S. market will reach $5200 ing. Similar to Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs $10 billion by 2030, 30% greater than projected $4600 (see Figure 4), brands must recognize the 2014 2016 2018 2020 2022 2024 2026 2028 2030 Current Forecast 4G Growth Engine Forecast

importance of understanding a man’s level of MEN’S grooming sophistication when introducing a new product. In Maslow’s theory, a person Figure 6 makes their way up the pyramid by fulfilling each of the needs below (McLeod, 2007). For Growth Implications product purchase number from five to seven, grooming, once a brand can capture a man’s Today, there are 106 million men in the U.S. at an average of $10 each, the U.S. market will loyalty with simple solutions to the most obvi- that fall into the key target demographic ages reach $10 billion, 30% greater than projected. ous needs, he will be ready for education on of 14-65. This group is estimated to use only This represents a tremendous opportunity for another solution to a slightly more complex one product per day with a repurchase rate of brands to grow their bottom line. need. Instead of overwhelming men by launch- approximately five times per year, creating a ing too many products at once, marketers market size of $5.7 billion (Euromonitor, 2013). Industry Recommendations should focus on one hero product at a time that With a current growth rate of 1.8% per year, In the 4G Growth Engine, the four gears addresses an authentic need, with immediate the market is projected to reach $7.6 billion by symbolize a network of interdependent actions, benefits that will give him a reason to believe. 2030 (Euromonitor, 2013). all requisite to accelerating the men’s move- A smaller, more targeted product selection will By implementing the 4G Growth Engine, ment. Without all gears in place, the machine help him feel like he is making an informed the market growth potential is significantly can’t operate at all. But this model is only a choice (Hardie, 2014). greater. By 2030, there will be 120 million men subset of the industry as a whole. The $70 in the U.S. ages 14-65 (DemographicsNow, billion U.S. beauty and personal care category 2014). If we are able to increase their yearly took hundreds of years to build, and the men’s

4 Conclusion as toiletries win in guy grooming. Retrieved The state of masculinity is at a tipping point, 1 March 2014, from http://www.bloomberg. creating an enormous opportunity for brands com/news/2013-09-24/real-men-use-mud- to finally get men’s grooming right. Imagine a masks-as-toiletries-win-in-guy-grooming.html. future where men are as comfortable shopping Brizendine, L. (2010). The male brain (1st for grooming products as women; where men ed.). New York: Broadway Books. see relatable images reflected back at them in Cherry, K. (2014). What’s the difference retail channels and advertisements; where men between the classical and operant condition- have an authentic need and desire for groom- ing?. Retrieved 5 April 2014, from http://psy- ing products and use them to curate their own chology.about.com/od/behavioralpsychology/a/ Figure 5. Industry Call to Action version of masculinity. classical-vs-operant-conditioning.htm. grooming movement will not happen over- Billions of dollars are being left on the table Clifford, S. (2014). Log In - The New York night (Euromonitor, 2014). Men’s grooming simply because the industry has not made it a Times. Retrieved 20 April 2014, from http:// cannot flourish within a silo; the industry as priority to understand men’s authentic drivers, www.nytimes.com/2012/12/04/business/ a whole must be the driving force to put the and reach him through the people, places, more-dads-buy-the-toys-so-barbie-and-stores- gears into motion (see Figure 5). We recom- images, and communication style that he truly get-makeovers.html. mend brands take the following actions to connects with. We cannot adopt a women’s Defy Media. (2014). 2nd Annual Acumen cultivate a beauty landscape where men are a model to reach men, we must look towards the Report: Brand New Man. New York. major part of the equation: changing landscape of masculinity to identify Datamonitor. (2010). Dove men + care case n First, we must invest in male specific new needs and genuine consequences. study. research. We have created research centers Applying the 4G Growth Engine backed Datamonitor. (2011). Gillette fusion pro glide to understand consumers in Asia, Europe, by the support of the industry will create the case study: using consumer focused marketing and South America. Men make up half the perfect storm needed to construct a more to instill brand confidence. human population, and yet we have not sophisticated men’s grooming market in the Datamontior. (2010). Old Spice case study: invested in understanding their unique United States. This fresh approach offers a Effectively harnessing social media in personal needs beyond the basics. A male specific compelling opportunity for the future of the care. research center is a crucial first step in beauty industry. 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Industry Experts Interviewed Andra Mielnicki, Executive Director, Global Communications La Mer Ann Gottlieb, Ann Gottlieb and Associates Andrew Chen, Manager Marketing, Redken Global Ashley Boyce, Brand Building Manager, Unilever Clyde Johnson, Executive Director of Education, La Mer Chris Salgardo, President, Kiehl’s Since 1851 Craig LaManna, Associate Director, Nivea Men’s Isabela de Mello, Design Strategist, IDEO San Francisco Jacqueline Nam, Marketing Manager, SK-II Korea Jane Gu, Senior Manager, L'Oréal Paris Men Expert Joseph Grigsby, Executive Director Global Marketing, Lab Series Julien Bouzitat, Vice President Innovation, L'Oréal Karen Grant, Vice President and Global Beauty Industry Analyst, NPD Lisa Sequino, Executive Director, Tom Ford Beauty Meredith Kaback, Director of Consumer Insights, Coty Prestige Minh Dan Tran, Marketing Director, Biotherm Canada Pete Born, Executive Editor, WWD Rob McGovern, CEO and Founder, Cobrain Sam Cheow, Vice President, Trends & Reverse Innovation

Qualitative Research Conducted in-depth 1:1 interviews with 25 men ages 21-65

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