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Fashion Institute of Technology State University of New York Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management Master’s Degree Program This 2014 Capstone research paper is the work of graduate students, and any reproduction or use of this material requires written permission from the FIT CFMM Master's Program. capstone 2014 White Paper men’s beAuty Authors: Simone Bolotin (Coty Prestige), group leverage the changing roles, changing views, ently do not think seriously about a sophisti- leader; Colleen Celentano (L'Oréal), co-leader; and changing faces of the modern man to grow cated grooming routine. Renee Bukowski (IFF); Alexandra de Lara (The a more sophisticated men’s grooming market. Men’s lack of interest in grooming can also Estée Lauder Companies); Michael Kremer It will also outline a new model that will cap- be linked to evolutionary factors. Biologists (L'Oréal) ture men’s interest and loyalty, including key explain that historically for women, physical pillars critical for the growth of this opportunity- beauty was an evolutionary advantage that “To men a man is but a mind. Who cares what rich category. could lead to biological success by attracting face he carries or what he wears? But woman’s a mate. In her book, The Male Brain, neu- body is the woman.” History ropsychiatrist Louann Brizendine explains Ambrose bierce, 1958 While the U.S. market has enjoyed success that “men have been biologically selected in selling men’s basic needs products, attempts over millions of years to focus on fertile introduction to move into more sophisticated categories females,” with traits that indicate youth and Over the past decade, men’s grooming has have proved challenging. In order to move health (Brizendine, 2010). For men, however, been dubbed “the final frontier” of beauty, forward, the industry first needs to understand biological success was based on their ability to poised to take the industry by storm. With over why attempts to break through this barrier provide food for their mate. “The males who 138 million men in the United States compris- have been unsuccessful. showed they were willing to provide food got ing about 50% of the population (Census.gov, Historically, men have taken a need-based, more sexual access to the females, increasing 2014), it presents a true goldmine of untapped utilitarian approach to their personal care their chances of paternity” (Brizendine, 2010). users. But have brands been able to crack the products. Today, the categories with highest While women have an innate biological moti- men’s code? use among men are those that are essential vation for beautifying, for men, money, power Men’s grooming is a $35 billion global for maintaining basic hygiene. Once men have and other indicators of their ability to provide industry, with the U.S. holding a 17% share. identified a problem, they want a simple and can often take the place of good looks in the The $5.7 billion U.S. men’s grooming market quick solution. For example, deodorant is the mating game. has grown by 7% in the past five years, with a most commonly used product among men, As a society, our depictions of men in adver- focus on basic needs products such as deodor- with 92% reporting that they use it regularly tising and popular culture have not historically ant, shampoo, and bar soap. Meanwhile, the to protect themselves from odor and perspira- contributed to an environment ripe for chang- global men’s market has grown at 23%, more tion. Shampoo is the second most widely used ing the male mindset. In The Beauty Myth, than three times faster than the U.S. during category at 86%, followed by bar soap at 70%, author Naomi Wolf uses the stereotypical the same five-year span (Euromonitor, 2014). and shaving cream at 61% (Mintel, 2014). The depiction of a standard evening news team to South Korea has grown at 67% and China at a U.S. men’s grooming industry has done an highlight the disparities between the accepted staggering 157%, driven primarily by sophisti- exceptional job of building these basic need appearance of men and women, describing cated categories such as skin care. If the U.S. categories, with a 38% dollar share of the “that double image—the older man, lined and grooming market had matched global growth, global men’s bath and shower market, thanks distinguished, seated beside a nubile, heavily it would already be a $7 billion industry today. to popular launches and advertising by Old made-up female junior” (Wolf, 2002). In the While historically it has been a challenge to Spice, Axe, and Dove Men+CARE. grooming industry, messaging has traditionally engage U.S. men in the categories that enjoy Aside from the practical uses, these catego- reinforced prevalent gender stereotypes. From success abroad, the economic crisis of 2008 ries have cultural significance as well. While Axe, to Old Spice, to the now defunct TAG has fueled major shifts in gender roles, behav- most women in the U.S. grew up learning how Body Spray brand, hyper-masculine or over iors, and attitudes among men. Men were most to apply lipstick and set their hair in curlers sexualized images have long been used to sell affected by the recession, with a job loss rate from their mothers and grandmothers, most basic needs products to men. nearly 50% higher than that of women, an eco- boys grew up learning about deodorant and While using stereotypes in advertising has nomic phenomenon coined “the mancession” basic hygiene in health class at school, or proven effective for basic needs categories, we (Investopedia, 2009). The current marketing teaching themselves to shave after observing are hitting a wall. In the past five years, the model does not reflect the authentic needs or their fathers and grandfathers. As a result, U.S. deodorant market was flat and the total values of the modern U.S. male consumer. getting men interested in products beyond the shave category grew by only 2% (Euromonitor, This paper will highlight opportunities to basics has been challenging, since they inher- 2014). The limitations of the U.S. market’s 1 the American male has evolved to encompass specific toiletries than on shaving products the “new masculinity.” Men today are more (Walker, 2014). dynamic, open-minded, and sophisticated than Changing Faces: The face and demograph- ever before. Gender roles are no longer clearly ics of the male consumer are also changing. defined, and the stereotypes of the past are The growth that is expected for older male age becoming less relevant. While men’s internal segments far surpasses that of the total popula- motivations may not have shifted, external tion, with men aged 55-64 expected to grow drivers are altering their wants, needs, and by 8% and men aged 65-74 expected to grow aspirations. The industry has reached a tipping by 21% by 2018 (Mintel, 2013). With Boomers Figure 1 point for men’s grooming as a direct result of and older demographics getting divorced at men’s changing roles, changing views, and increased rates and putting off retirement due changing faces (see Figure 2). to economic challenges, it could lead to men Changing Roles: Today, three out of four focusing more on their appearance in order to men agree that men and women don’t need compete with younger age groups. to conform to traditional roles and behaviors On the other end of the spectrum, millennial anymore, and that gender doesn’t define a men are more likely to accept products and person as much as it used to. As noted in JWT routines associated with women’s grooming, Intelligence’s The State of Men report, “With such as facial cleansers and moisturizers, gender roles blurring and many women work- compared to older generations (Mintel, 2013). ing as much as or more than their partners, Mintel’s research suggests that this is a positive Figure 2 the household is becoming more gender- indicator for the skin care segment and overall current approach is also apparent in its global neutral as men embrace an active role at home category in the future, since younger men will share of men’s skin care at only 8%, ten share or are pushed into it out of economic neces- likely continue to use skin care products as points less than any other U.S male cat- sity.” Household tasks and childcare are now they age. egory (Euromonitor, 2014). Globally, skin care commonly shared responsibilities. Research Population growth in both the African represents the biggest opportunity for men’s also shows that men are just as concerned as American and Hispanic male population will grooming, with 73% growth in the past five women with achieving a work-life balance. Two also be a positive market driver in the coming years alone. Currently, China leads the charge out of three men say they would stay home years. Both of these key demographics over- with 30% share, followed by Western Europe full time with their family if they could afford index in their use of several types of men’s at 21%, and South Korea at 19% (Euromonitor, to. Over 90% of men also express that part of personal care products, most notably skin care. 2014), (see Figure 1). being a man today is taking care of family and Forty-seven percent of African American men These facts are not surprising considering those around you (Berelowtiz, 2013). report that they buy male-specific offerings— how men’s skin care has traditionally been Changing Views: As men become more more than any other ethnic and racial segment launched in the U.S.

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