APPLAUDING ALBER UMA THURMAN AND GIAMBATTISTA VALLI WERE AMONG FERRAGAMO THOSE SALUTING ALBER ELBAZ AT BARNEYS NEW YORK ON HIS EXPANDS 10TH ANNIVERSARY AT LANVIN. ON FIFTH. PAGE 9 PAGE 12

LUXURY 101 Arnault Preaches A Long-Term View

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Fifty years from now, will people still be using WWD iPhones? Who knows, but luxury titan Bernard Arnault is certain they’ll still be sipping Dom Perignon. Addressing back-to-back shareholders’ meetings FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 for LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior SA, Arnault lobbed that analogy as he discussed the importance of taking a long-term perspective in business — and innovating constantly — especially amidst foggy economic circumstances. “It is we who create the future of our business,” Arnault said in an upbeat, at times professorial ad- dress that held an audience numbering more than 1,000 rapt in a vast hall at the Carrousel du Louvre here. “It’s not what we will do today, but what we will do in 10 to 15 years.” Arnault trumpeted that 2011 was another “vintage” year for LVMH, with profits from continuing opera- tions advancing 22 percent to 5.26 billion euros, or $7.1 billion, outpacing the growth in sales, up 16 percent to 23.66 billion euros, or $32.94 billion, as reported. LVMH’s chairman and chief executive officer said he expects the good times to continue rolling, noting that business in the first quarter was better than the fourth quarter of 2011, when sales advanced 20.4 per- cent to 7.35 billion euros, or $9.92 billion. “We are relatively confident for the development of our business in 2012,” he said, flashing a graph show- ing LVMH’s stock rising 165 percent since Jan. 1, 2009, versus only 5 percent for the CAC 40. Again turning to the burgeoning Internet industry to illustrate dramatic reversals of fortune, he noted that Apple Inc., a company once on the verge of bank- ruptcy, has roared back to become one of the most highly valued companies on the planet. By compari- son, Yahoo Inc. finds its once rosy business withering, while search-engine rival Google Inc. roars ahead. Arnault reminded shareholders that LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, grew out of a troubled textile group called Boussac that he ac- quired back in the late Eighties. France’s richest man acknowledged the debt woes SEE PAGE 2 Penney’s Cuts 900 Jobs

By DAVID MOIN

J.C. PENNEY CO. INC.’S REINVENTION is impact- ing its head count. About 600 associates are being let go at Penney’s Plano, Tex., headquarters, primarily in merchandising, planning and allocation and marketing, according to the company. The headquarters has 5,900 employees. On the Dot In addition, the company’s call center in Pittsburgh will shut down on July 1, affecting another Marc Jacobs is seeing spots with the launch of his newest 300 employees. The $17.3 billion, 1,100-unit chain on Thursday said women’s fragrance, Dot. Out in July in the U.S., the scent evokes the price simplification, re-merchandising on monthly the designer’s love of polka dots and adds a third pillar to his cycles, marketing and cost-cutting initiatives — all at fragrance house with Coty Prestige. For more, see page 5. the core of the four-year reinvention strategy — enabled the personnel cuts. There was no word on whether there would be personnel reductions at stores. “Often in business, companies must streamline in order to leap forward,” said Ron Johnson, Penney’s chairman and chief executive officer. “In our case, this has involved some very difficult decisions that have had an impact on many of our associates, but these changes are essential to help us achieve our long-term goals and, ultimately, grow our associate base as we grow our business.” Mike Kramer, chief operating officer, said, “We are on the cutting edge of a new approach to retail. Even this early on in our transformation, it’s clear that many of the processes required under the old busi- ness model are no longer needed. We are putting in PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY AMY LOMACCHIO SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 2012 WWD.COM Marciano Testimony Wraps Up THE BRIEFING BOX Gucci, but that its designs differ. of Arnold & Porter LLP, after IN TODAY’S WWD By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD With his brother Maurice look- inspecting the placement of the ing on, Paul Marciano painstakingly logos on the photo of the clutch. NEW YORK — Before catch- detailed the evolution of the brand’s “But we asked the lady,” ing a plane to California, Guess Quattro G logo, as well as its script Marciano said. “She said it Inc. chief executive officer Paul logo, which, according to Gucci, was real.” Marciano spent several more might “confuse” consumers as it “Of course she told you that,” hours in a federal court here trying has similar trademarks. Material to the judge said with a chuckle. to clear his company’s name of al- Guess’ case is either proving it de- The matter was dropped. legations that it has been knocking veloped the design first, or demon- Despite the lighter moments, the off Gucci’s trademarks for decades. strating that other brands have used judge’s patience was running Guess attorney Daniel similar designs as well. thin as lunchtime approached. Petrocelli of O’Melveny & Myers When the topic of the square Petrocelli wrapped up his exam- LLP spent two hours question- “G” arose, Marciano, who was ination by asking why Guess hadn’t A look from ing his client about the origin of unable the previous day to prove terminated its partnership with Lanvin’s fall his brand’s designs in response that fashion house Givenchy used Marc Fisher Footwear, which, in collection EICHNER to claims made by Gucci’s legal the square “G” before both Gucci 2008, created Guess sneakers that marking Alber Elbaz’s 10 years STEVE

team, which grilled Marciano and Guess, had an epiphany. Marciano said looked so similar to BY Wednesday for roughly four hours. “This morning, at the court- Gucci sneakers that he was “embar- at the label.

The court case, which began house, we saw the square G on a rassed.” Guess quickly pulled those PHOTO last week, involves allegations by handbag,” an excited Marciano shoes from the market. Gucci that Guess and its exclu- said, as his lawyers displayed a “You have to put it in perspec- Luxury titan Bernard Arnault addressed back-to-back sive licensee for footwear, Marc photo of what appeared to be a tive. Marc Fisher was a new li- shareholders’ meetings for LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Fisher Footwear, devised a “mas- logoed Givenchy clutch. censee at the time,” Marciano Vuitton and Christian Dior SA. PAGE 1 sive scheme” to knock off Gucci Gucci’s lawyer looked flus- said. “There was a learning product. Gucci is seeking $221 tered as the Guess team ex- curve…but we acted within About 600 associates are being let go at J.C. Penney’s million in damages, and a perma- plained that they had snapped weeks of a mistake.” Plano, Tex., headquarters, while its Pittsburgh call center nent injunction that would keep a photo of the purse of a woman Much of Marciano’s testimony will close on July 1, affecting another 300 jobs. PAGE 1 Guess from making and selling they met that morning. centered on the history of the goods that include its diamond- “We asked permission first,” Guess brand, its retail locations Guess chief executive officer Paul Marciano took the stand shaped logoed pattern, square said a Guess lawyer, replying to and its iconic marketing and ad- for the last time in the Gucci versus Guess trial. PAGE 2 “G” design and tri-striped motif. presiding Judge Shira Scheindlin’s vertising campaigns. Guess, which denies Gucci’s inquiry of the photo’s origin. The case was adjourned until As a growing number of beauty retailers cross the claims, said it takes “inspiration” “It’s a counterfeit,” said Monday and the trial is slated to threshold with their own proprietary skin care brands, it is from a host of brands, including Gucci’s attorney, Louis Ederer end next week. clear that this is not the time to play copycat. PAGE 4

Marc Jacobs is launching Dot, his latest women’s fragrance, which follows Daisy and Lola. PAGE 5

Arnault Touts Strong Future for LVMH Many retailers reported high-single digit or low double- digit comparable-store sales gains for March. PAGE 8 {Continued from page one} and austerity measures that con- tinue to hobble Europe’s out- This year’s finalists for the National Magazine Award’s look, but stressed that LVMH, Magazine of the Year are Esquire, New York, The New which exports roughly 80 per- Yorker, Popular Mechanics and Time. PAGE 9 cent of its production, is well- positioned to take advantage of AgustaWestland has tapped Karl Lagerfeld to design global growth, projected to tally VIP helicopters, both the interiors and exteriors. PAGE 11 4 percent this year. Just back from a trip to Cotton Incorporated is doing its own take on “A Tale of Vietnam, he marveled·· at the Two Cities” with the launch of two new television spots, capitalist nature of the commu- featuring Emmy Rossum and Camilla Belle. PAGE 11 nist nation. “French products are particularly appreciated there,” The AFL-CIO and 12 Honduran labor organization have he related, smiling broadly. petitioned the U.S. Department of Labor over alleged “There is a dynamism in this labor violations. PAGE 12 country I can foresee for the next MAITRE 10 years. It has a very interesting Wal-Mart Stores Inc. launched a program to empower growth potential.” 60,000 women who work in the factories it uses. PAGE 12 Indeed, he noted Dior would

DOMINIQUE be the next of his brands — Bernard Arnault in BY Ferragamo today unveils its newly renovated Fifth which range from Givenchy and Paris Thursday. Avenue flagship which, at 20,000 square feet, is its Fendi to Zenith and Bulgari —to PHOTO largest store in the world. PAGE 12 Sephora, now both thriving and profitable businesses. (Last ON WWD.COM It is we who create the future year, the business group saw sales increase 20 percent.) of our business. It’s not what “In this business, you have Barneys Fetes Alber: The retailer and Uma Thurman to be patient,” he stressed, also co-hosted a presentation of Lanvin’s fall collection noting that some of the group’s with Alber Elbaz to celebrate his 10 years at the label. we will do today, but what we medium-sized fashion brands, in- For more, see WWD.com/eye. cluding Loewe, are now showing will do in 10 to 15 years. strong growth potential. The Dior meeting was a brisk TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS — BERNARD ARNAULT, [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. affair, given the Dior fashion WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. LVMH MOET HENNESSY LOUIS VUITTON house’s equally strong perfor- COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. mance last year: Profits more VOLUME 203, NO. 71. FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, than doubled to 85 million euros, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine plant stores in the country, which important market for us,” albeit or $118.4 million, as sales in its Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, has a population of about 90 mil- “less dynamic than China.” own stores advanced 28 percent. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at lion people, and a pair of Louis He cited “remarkable growth” Dior noted that it keeps New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses Vuitton boutiques: one in Ho Chi at DFS in Asia, marveling at not trimming back its wholesale to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S Minh City and one in Hanoi. only the number of shoppers at business: It represented only WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, Arnault said LVMH took its locations, but their increasing- 12 percent of revenues last call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent market share “everywhere” in ly sophisticated selections. While year, down from 15 percent in label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless 2011, buoyed by sustained de- such duty free outlets have a rep- 2010. Last year, 84 percent of we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on mand for luxury, particularly in utation for selling mainly liquor Dior sales were generated in all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all emerging markets. and cigarettes, he said Chinese its own boutiques. editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints Yet he also highlighted victo- clients in Macau,·· for example, The weight of fast-growing of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at ries in mature markets, boasting come in search of perfumes, jew- Asia also continues to grow, ac- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that that Dior’s J’adore remains the elry and leather goods. counting for 45 percent of Dior’s we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at best-selling perfume in France Arnault recalled that a de- sales last year. Europe and the P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED for the second year running. He cade ago, financial analysts Middle East represented 46 per- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER also touted a vigorous rebound were urging LVMH to off-load cent, while the Americas only 9 UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR in disaster-stricken Japan and its “selective distribution” di- percent, down 1 percentage point DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A noted that it remains a “very vision, particularly DFS and from 2010. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ‘Best dramatic performance by an eye pencil.’

New Quickliner For Eyes Intense. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free. clinique.com © Clinique Laboratories, LLC 4 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 2012

Parfums de Coeur Said In Play beauty NEW YORK — Parfums de dictate competitive brands can’t Coeur is the latest company be named in marketing efforts. said to be looking for a poten- While some estimates peg tial suitor as the pace of beau- PDC at over $100 million, oth- ty deals kicks up. ers calculated the most a suit- Parfums de Coeur president or would pay would be in the Outside the Box: James Stammer, reached at the $40 million range. company’s Darien, Conn. head- PDC was launched in 1984 quarters, would not comment by fragrance expert Laracy. on the market reports. The firm He spent 10 years at Prince is said to have hired Houlihan Matchabelli, a subsidiary of More Store Brands Lokey to explore a sale. Chesebrough-Pond’s Inc., dur- Several industry observers ing a time when the company Broadway and Walnut Street in Philadelphia, suggested it’s prime time for was among the hottest perfume By BELISA SILVA and Beck plans to utilize Bluemercury’s physical the privately held company — purveyors around. Between 1965 outposts for M-61’s advertising. “We’re starting at which is credited with creating and 1975, annual sales ballooned AS A GROWING NUMBER of beauty retailers home first,” she said. the entire alternative designer from $7 million to $80 million. cross the threshold with their own proprietary Having an automatic brick-and-mortar component fragrance market — to look for With his knowledge that skin care brands, one thing is clear: This is not to the business is certainly an added benefit to the a buyer. Some sources suggest- fragrance formulas couldn’t be the time to play copycat. retailer-cum-skin-care-brand model. “We are able to ed that the company’s founder, patented, he created less ex- “If you can create a new category, you win,” de- capitalize on our in-store designs to showcase the col- Mark Laracy, is nearing retire- pensive options of well-known clared Bluemercury co-founder and chief execu- lection with clear signage on a designated fixture in ment and noted that fragrance premium scents including tive officer Marla Malcolm Beck, who in May will our stores,” said Catherine Gore, director of Sephora market is becoming increas- Giorgio and Opium priced at a try her hand at product creation with the debut of Collection, the chain’s namesake brand, which was ingly difficult to do business in. fraction of the cost. He set mass her first skin care line, M-61, a nine-piece collec- launched in January 2011. “Additionally, the collec- One source said the com- fragrance sales on fire when tion said to bridge the gap between the high-tech tion is integrated into our seasonal catalogues and pany has been on the hunt for he launched Primo — a mimic and the natural. print advertising for further awareness.” a buyer for a year. of Giorgio. As designer and ce- “Customers love technology, but not the chemi- At stores like Sephora and Ulta, for example, The concept that helped lebrity scents filtered into the cals,” said Beck, whose product formulas contain advertising and selling ammunition comes mainly push PDC to sales stardom — market, PDC knocked them off a blend of “dermatologist-loved ingredients” like in the form of its arsenal of trained beauty consul- underscored by its tag line, “If and rushed them to market to a peptides, vitamins C and E and alpha hydroxy acids, tants who can easily recommend the house brand. you like [designer brand], you’ll receptive audience. paired with “heavily researched naturals,” like bil- “It works well with their format of having so many love [alternative]” — is now — FAYE BROOKMAN, berry extract, parsley-derived centella asiatica and choices, explained industry expert Allan Mottus. an obstacle to international WITH CONTRIBUTIONS gallic acid, which is found in blueberries, walnuts, “Shoppers can buy a prestige foundation, a mass growth. European standards FROM EVAN CLARK apples, flaxseed and witch hazel. The Bluemercury- mascara and be shown Ulta’s own skin care.” exclusive collection, named after one of the few re- The Sephora Collection Skincare, introduced solved (science that is understood) galaxies in our to all its 300 stand-alone doors in the U.S. and universe, ranges from $19 for a hand cream to $92 Canada as well as more than 300 Sephoras inside Direct Sellers’ Technology Push for a serum, and could generate up to $3 million in J.C. Penney locations, is expanding, with new its first year, according to industry sources. items added every season. Beauty emporiums like Ulta, Sephora and CVS Priced from $4 to $39, the range, whose hero By MOLLY PRIOR are similarly flexing their muscles in the skin care ingredient is a proprietary plant-derived humec- space. On April 22, Ulta tant said to moisturize DON’T LET Avon Products Inc.’s troubles fool you. Beauty will introduce a pro- more effectively than hyal- The direct-selling business has evolved into a robust, tech- prietary collection called uronic acid, is color-coded nology-led distribution channel. A number of players — Mary Ulta Skincare, a follow up to and boasts straightforward Kay Inc., Rodan & Fields and Nu Skin Enterprises Inc. among the company’s first private packaging and names, for them — have replaced the doorbell with e-mail, and the glossy label initiative phased out an experience that is “easy brochure with an iPad app. several years ago. The range, to shop.” Coty Inc., which this week unveiled a $10 billion bid to take priced between $8 and $25, To be sure, the history over Avon, might well be motivated by the success of these other will be exclusive to Ulta’s of private label skin care direct merchants. 449 stores and ulta.com, and is one punctuated with Last month, Mary Kay launched one of its most popular on- is being billed as afford- successes and failures. A line tools, Virtual Makeover, for mobile devices ranging from able, skin-improving and recent example of a partic- the iPad to Android smartphones and tablets, said Patricia skin-protecting. It will fea- ularly fine-tuned introduc- Wanderley, vice president of corporate digital marketing. Also, ture a proprietary complex tion is CVS’ exclusive cross- in March the company introduced an app called Show and Sell, called Advanced Protection category range, Salma designed to provide visual selling tools at parties hosted by its Factor+, designed to fight Hayek Nuance. A corner- sales consultants, said Jamie Schott, Mary Kay’s director of digi- free radicals and environ- stone of this 100-stockkeep- tal marketing. These initiatives are now rolling out globally. mental factors, reduce the ing-unit collection, which The skin care range Rodan & Fields has been steadily build- appearance of fine lines and IANNACCONE contains color cosmet- ing a direct-selling network in the U.S. since leaving the de- wrinkles and improve over- ics and hair care, is skin partment store channel in 2008. Thousands of Rodan & Fields’ all skin tone and texture. THOMAS care; and many formulas 20,000 representatives are armed with iPads and nearly 100

In March, during an in- BY include local plants and percent of its orders are placed online, said a company spokes- vestors’ call, Ulta ceo Chuck An assortment of M-61 products. herbs utilized by Hayek’s woman. She added Rubin singled out store ex- PHOTO grandmother. Despite the that the company has clusives as a driver behind increased market share recent shut-down of all of CVS’ Beauty 360 loca- an incentive program across all major categories in the fourth quarter tions, the Salma Hayek line is far from shrinking. where reps can earn and fiscal year. Insider executives say sales are growing and this iPads. With products Some common ground among these newly past January seven new products — four of which such as the 60-day emerging in-house brands? Products that offer were skin care — were added to the range. regimen Anti-Age simplicity of message, accessible price points and “I’ve tried everything including $1,000 face Amp MD, priced at availability limited to the stores responsible for creams,” said Hayek at the time of the launch. “I $200, Rodan & Fields their creation. Beauty retailers, it seems, share knew there was a way of making extraordinary plays in the premium the advantage of built-in consumer trust as well as products that make a difference, without spend- tier, along with Nu access to customer feedback — including requests ing that kind of money,” she added of the price Skin, a company that for products which do not yet exist. True to form, points, which range from $2.99 to $19.99. Nuance many on Wall Street each retailer’s skin care brands are targeted to- was targeted to produce sales of $35 million by in- point to as the bell- wards its customers. dustry experts who believe current sales are on wether of beauty di- For her part, Beck said she designed M-61 to target and that at least 30 to 40 percent of that is rect selling with its fill white space she observed within the highly generated by skin care items. A visual of Mary Kay’s selling tools for luxury price points edited merchandise in her 37 stores — the cus- For many retailers, the creation of their own skin its representation. and multilevel selling tomer’s desire for natural ingredients, guaranteed care ranges is also ignited by the confluence of aging model. Nu Skin’s flag- results and non-bank-breaking prices. Baby Boomers looking to do more with a smaller ship skin care range, AgeLoc, sells for between $50 to $450 for “Our clients want truth and honesty and that’s budget. According to Wendy Liebmann of WSL a monthly regimen. The spoils of those double- and triple-digit where this line came from,” said Beck, who based Strategic Retail, consumers are returning to stores, price points help attracted and retain representatives. her blends on new research — coming primarily out but shopping differently; while some will return to Several Wall Street analysts contend that Avon’s low price of Asia — centered on the efficacy of naturopathic- pampering, others like the value of private label. In points and heavy-handed promotions make its business model inspired healing plants. “Natural ingredients were fact, according to the Private Label Manufacturing more labor-intensive for its representatives. As Stifel Nicolaus & always the stuff of home remedies and wives tales,” Association, nearly one of every four mass products Co. analyst Mark Astrachan pointed out, “You want Avon to be a continued Beck, who, after perusing more than 500 purchased is now a store brand. While consumers business where you can earn a living, not supplement a living. It articles on the topic, decided on nine formulas out may have hesitated in the past to buy a moisturizer takes an awful lot of lipstick [sales] to equal a $200 skin cream.” of 175. Beck included only naturals with scientifical- with a retailer’s logo on it, the trust retailers have Avon does offer reps online tools and an iPhone app. ly proven results, including gallic acid, which is said built up has helped ease the trepidation. In fact, in Nu Skin said it funnels 43 percent of its sales back to its rep- to have cancer-combating and melasma-easing ben- 2011 in all mass outlets — supermarkets, drugstores resentatives through incentive programs, and Rodan & Fields efits and tamarind seed extract, said to be an effec- and discount stores, including Wal-Mart — store distributes more than 30 percent of revenue to its sales force, ac- tive wound healer. “It was perfect storm of research brand sales advanced by 3.9 percent while national cording to industry sources. A source with knowledge of Avon’s on naturals and new research into technology.” brands were up only by 0.6 percent. business said the company’s U.S. business allotted roughly 20 Bluemercury has doors on New York City’s — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM F.B. percent of sales to its representatives. WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 2012 5 WWD.COM

noted Claire Fermont Langlais, senior marketing director for

Marc Jacobs fragrances. Shot Marc Jacobs’ New Girl: in the Maldives, the image is of a wide-eyed Young in a field of lush greenery. “It’s suggestive of a young, contemporary spirit which

Dot Fragrance Unveiled is still open to interpretation by the person who would buy it,” many, many permutations and we said Jacobs. By JULIE NAUGHTON can have a lot of fun with it. The vi- While Jacobs and Coty ex- sual is always very important.” ecutives declined comment on MARC JACOBS HAS BUILT a fragrance empire by fo- Jacobs wanted the scent, which projected sales and advertising cusing on what he calls “his girls” — Daisy, launched in he created with Firmenich’s Annie spending, industry sources esti- 2007, and Lola, which bowed in 2009. Buzantian and consultant·· Ann mated that Dot could do as much Move over, ladies: There’s a new upstart in town, and Gottlieb, “to feel like it was com- as $100 million at retail globally her name is Dot. According to her creator, she’s charming, ing out of this bottle,” he said, not- in its first year, with about $40 mil- spirited and energetic and driven by a fanciful red bottle. ing that the juice was intended to lion of that figure expected to be “We keep calling them sisters. Lola is Daisy’s sister, and be, like the bottle, charming and generated in the U.S. The advertis- now Dot is their sister,” said Jacobs, speaking with WWD spirited. It has top notes of red ing war chest globally is expected during an interview in his SoHo studio earlier this week. berries, dragon fruit and honey- to be about $50 million, with about “There’s beginning to be a sort of vocabulary [within the suckle; a heart of jasmine, coconut $20 million of that expected to be fragrance collection]; even within the variety, there’s a water and orange blossom and a The Dot ad features Codie Young. spent in the U.S. similar handwriting — something that just feels like us.” drydown of vanilla, driftwood and As first revealed by WWD earlier Dot’s fanciful red bottle, which resembles a musk. “There’s a juicy, lush quality to it because it felt this week, Jacobs is also working with Sephora to do a ladybug with butterflies alighting on it, “just like the right spirit for this bottle,” he said. “It’s almost color cosmetics collection with a yet-to-be-determined seemed right to me,” said Jacobs. “I asked like a butterfly or a ladybug landing on a leaf.” launch date. “Sephora has such a modern sensibility,” myself, What would this Dot be? And for said Jacobs, adding that the retailer’s approach to mak- me, it would be something that was chic, ing a luxury product that is appealing to a young and con- something that was charming. A dot is temporary market is a match with his own philosophy. “It timeless and a pattern I always love, and One design that I always go was an inspiring first meeting, and that gets me excited round shapes are always beautiful. I liked — when their enthusiasm matches my own.” the idea of these hybrid butterfly-lady- Jacobs said he sees his endeavors as “another oppor- bugs, which suggest a sort of free spirit and back to in some way is the dot. tunity for design; it’s another opportunity to make a series femininity and playfulness. And, of choices and to project a spirit,” said Jacobs. “But it will of course, ladybugs mean good — MARC JACOBS be women out there who decide if it’s good or not. I just luck.” As well, Jacobs said he put all my heart and soul and all my energy into basically has long felt strongly about the everything that I work on, and I always feel that the prod- classicism and elegance of a The collection includes eaux de par- uct has integrity because there is that energy and passion polka-dot motif, a recurring fum in three sizes — 1 oz. for $48, 1.7 in it. I’m not a perfectionist — I don’t think we ever get pattern in his collections oz. for $69 and 3.4 oz. for $89 — as well anything perfect. But I do believe, within the time we have and a major focus of his as a 5-oz. body lotion, $45, and a 5-oz. to do something, that we get things as best as we possibly fall 2011 ready-to-wear shower gel, $40. All are priced on par can, and by the time I’m ready to let them go I’m really line. “One design that with Jacobs’ Lola franchise. proud of what it is that we’re putting out there.” I always go back to in In the U.S., Dot will be carried at The designer noted that he’s not yet done build- some way is the dot,” about 3,300 department and specialty ing his fragrance empire with Coty, welcome news to he said. “I felt like store doors beginning in July, and it Singer, who noted that Jacobs’ stable of fragrances this was something I’d will also launch in the U.K. in July. grew 37 percent in the U.S. in 2011 alone. But give never get tired of, and The remainder of global·· markets will Jacobs a breather first. I’ll always find a new get the scent beginning in August, said “For now, my head is in my next [rtw] collection, and way to interpret.” Lori Singer, group vice president of the wonderful and colorful world of cosmetics,” he said. He’s practical global marketing for Coty Prestige. Any previews of the rtw collection? Jacobs laughed. “I enough to have flankers Print advertising, featuring Codie never know what it’s going to be until the first girl’s on

(stepsisters?) in mind, AQUINO Young and shot by Juergen Teller, the runway,” he deadpanned. “It changes up until the too: “I felt this bottle will break in September fashion, last minute. It’s a process, not a recipe. It starts some- JOHN

would open itself up to BY beauty and lifestyle magazines, where and ends up somewhere else.” PHOTO

able in a variety of colors, for his line Esxence Celebrates Niche Scents of 15 fragrances. He said business has been especially good in the U.S., highly of Esxence, noting that most major An offering France and the U.K., and he is cur- By CYNTHIA MARTENS niche labels were present, in addition to “a from Atelier rently considering expansion in Asia, pretty good number of new brands.” Cologne. following Byredo’s recent Japanese MILAN — The artisanal fragrance move- Romano Ricci, founder of Juliette Has launch. “I’m going to Korea in a few ment is steadily gaining steam with re- a Gun, said customers are feeling “in- weeks,” Gorham noted. tailers. Attendance at Esxence, an an- creasingly lost” in commercial chains Celso Fadelli, co-founder of nual four-day niche perfume salon held and are looking for more-personal prod- Esxence and chief executive officer here, was up this year by 12.86 percent, ucts. Describing perfume as “a seductive of Intertrade Europe Group, said this with a total of 5,572 visitors. The fair weapon,” and himself as “a lover of singu- year’s exhibition had a noticeable Asian wrapped up its fourth edition on Sunday larities,” Ricci said he creates fragrances presence. “Already last year there were at La Permanente museum, where 155 in- around olfactory portraits of different types many Russian and Eastern European visi- ternational brands — a third of them new of femininity. Italian distributor Beauty tors, but there were not necessarily many to the fair — showcased their wares. San showcased Ricci’s latest fragrances, Asians. Now there are people from Korea, Christophe Cervasel and partner Sylvie including the musky, breezy Romantina Hong Kong, Japan and China,” he said. Ganter, founders of Atelier Cologne, a with orange blossom and vanilla, which Japanese brand Nippon Kodo, which Paris- and New York-based brand with a starts at 69 euros, or $90, for the 1.7-oz. specializes in high-quality incense at a Mediterranean flavor, devised a line of ab- version, and the patchouli, Bulgarian wide price range (3 euros to 2,000 euros, solute colognes that each evoke a highly rose and vanilla-inflected Vengeance or about $4 to $2,630), was showing its specific moment, such as a summer gath- Extrême, which retails for 103 euros, brand KOJU for the first time in Europe ering of friends sharing breakfast and or about $135, for 3.3 oz. at Esxence, said Pierre-Yves Colombel, fresh oranges, or a man feeling lucky as he Andrea Maack, the Icelandic visual art- marketing manager. strides confidently across wet grass. The ist who launched her fragrance line in 2011, “Perfume is also linked to smoke,” he newest scent, Vanille Insensée, ($170 for was showing a colorful cashmere scarf Lydeen, founders of the Swedish brand said, emphasizing the ritual element of a 6.7-oz. spray) relies on vanilla, jasmine, printed with her artwork. “Not everyone Agonist. Launched in 2008, the brand be- fragrances. The new KOJU 15/75 incense, fresh lime, oak moss, woods and spicy likes to wear perfume,” on the skin, Maack came known for its natural fragrances con- named for a 16th-century Japanese per- coriander to conjure the image of a man said, explaining that the scarf could be tained in intricate handblown glass sculp- fume master, offers five notes, each rep- who suddenly realizes his former flame is sprayed instead. Her fragrances are avail- tures. But the bottles’ 1,000 euro, or $1,330, resenting a different life phase, and will standing before him, wearing his perfume. able at roughly 60 doors worldwide, and price tag was out of reach for many con- sell in Europe at about 35 euros, or $46, Atelier Cologne is available in 150 doors the scarf will be sold in select locations sumers. All six fragrances will be in stores at approximately 50 concept and depart- worldwide and two new stores, in Paris for approximately 180 pounds, or $288. as of May in a spray version that will retail ment stores, such as Printemps in Paris. and Los Angeles, are slated to open this The artist was also showing Coal, a at about 120 euros, or $160, each. With a Thai brand Pañpuri was also at year and in 2013. fragrance that will hit stores in June. broad smile, Lydeen compared the sculp- Esxence for the first time, presenting Cervasel, who was at Esxence for the While working on coal sketches, Maack ture and spray bottles to “haute couture its line of certified organic bath, body second time, said there is growing interest became interested in the mineral, and and ready-to-wear.” He said that by the and home products, including candles among retailers for more individualistic created a unisex fragrance that contains end of the year Agonist will be at between hand-poured into handblown glass tum- products, noting that Galeries Lafayette in both coal and paper, connecting her art 50 and 100 doors worldwide. blers. Marketing director Coelio Jamet Paris had recently set up an “exceptional with her perfume. Ben Gorham, founder and owner of described the company as inspired by perfumes” area. Mirella Siciliano, buying Also promoting a bridge to the art world Stockholm-based brand Byredo, was pre- Buddhist philosophy and the idea that manager at La Rinascente in Milan, spoke were Christine Gustafsson and Niclas senting new leather travel cases, avail- “beauty comes from within.” COSMETIC 2012 EXECUTIVE WOMEN INSIDERS’ CEW BEAUTY INSIDERS’ CHOICE FINALIST AWARDS BEAUTY AWARD IT’S OUR BUSINESS TO KNOW BEAUTY’S BEST FINALIST2012

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FINE PRINTING AND INTERACTIVE DIGITAL SIGNAGE RESERVE TICKETS NOW @ CEW.ORG www.proof7.com 8 WwD friday, april 6 2012 WWD.COM March Comps Outpace Estimates March Though the economy is improving, “we’re not com- By David Moin pletely out of the woods,” Aronson said. “There are still Comparable Sales issues like gas prices and declining home equity and RETAILERS GOT an early spring break. weakness in Europe and the unknown volatility that March 2012 March 2011 February January Propelled by the warm weather, colorful, fresh could set in. Certainly, a good many stores exceeded % Change % Change % Change % Change spring apparel and accessories, and Easter falling on plans for March, but we have to wait to see what the give DEPARTMENT STORES April 8 this year versus April 24 in 2011, many retailers back will be in April.” Bon-Ton -0.1 -6.1 0.7 -3.5 “There was strength across all sectors — luxury, mid- on Thursday reported high-single-digit or low-double- Kohl’s 3.6 -6.5 -0.8 0.6 digit comparable store sales gains for March. tier and value. March was a sign that the consumer is get- Macy’s rose 7.3 percent; ting a little bit more confident and Macy’s 7.3 0.9 4.6 2.4 Saks Fifth Avenue was ahead that is good for everybody,” said Nordstrom 8.6 5.1 10.2 5.0 6.3 percent; Nordstrom was up March Comp Crux Joel Bines, managing director at Saks 6.3 11.1 6.6 10.5 8.6 percent; TJX Cos. and Ross AlixPartners’ global retail practice. Stores both rose 10 percent; and But Bines and the other analysts Stage Stores 4.7 -5.3 3.7 -0.1 Limited Stores grew 8 percent. WEATHERING HEIGHTS: March didn’t just cautioned that March probably took Average: 5.1 -0.1 4.2 2.5 Gap Inc. posted a surpris- go out like a lamb but arrived like one, too, a bite out of April sales, due to the

ing 8 percent gain, spurred by converting the whining about hard-to-sell earlier Easter. Ross Stores, for ex- redesigned assortments and cold-weather apparel into an energetic ample, sees only a 1 to 2 percent SPECIALTY CHAINS better traffic trends. “We deliv- reaction to lighter-weight spring arrivals. gain for April. And Macy’s, expects Banana Republic 5.0 -8.0 12.0 6.0 ered solid sales performance in Still, executives said there was more to the the combined increase for the two Bath & Body Works 6.0 8.0 7.0 -3.0 March and are pleased with cus- month’s strong showing than simply the months to be between 4.3 and 4.5 tomer response to product across meteorological, coming as it did against percent, lower than the March fig- Buckle 6.4 8.4 14.8 7.4 all brands,” said Glenn Murphy, a backdrop of steady, if slow, economic ure but above the 3 to 3.5 percent Cato 5.0 -9.0 -5.0 -6.0 Gap’s chairman and chief ex- improvement and despite gas prices poised increase originally forecast. Gap (U.S. stores) 9.0 -9.0 1.0 -5.0 ecutive officer. However, the San to hit a new record. While not a high-volume The analysts also said that soar- Francisco-based chain was com- month, April, deprived of last year’s “Easter ing gas prices could have a greater Old Navy 11.0 -12.0 5.0 -6.0 ing off a low base of volume from benefit,” is expected to be a tougher test. impact on shopping in the summer Perfumania 0.2 15.9 6.4 5.2 March a year ago when comps when families go on road trips and Victoria’s Secret 10.0 19.0 10.0 17.0 were down double digits. GAP SNAPBACK: With its 8 percent jump in buy back-to-school clothes. Retail experts said stores comps last month, Gap Inc. put together The numbers are also distort- Wet seal -7.8 4.7 -5.8 -13.0 would have done well in March back-to-back gains for the first time since ed by some stores blending their Zumiez 14.1 8.9 14.2 10.8 even without the benefits of it added 4 and 5 percent way back in online sales into the comp-store Average: 5.9 2.7 6.0 1.3 warm weather and the calen- October and November of 2010. The March sales, which hikes the results. dar shift. Consumers have been numbers were especially encouraging as American Apparel, for example, more prone to spending since they included a double-digit advance of 11 said it was up 21 percent last MASS MERCHANTS Christmas and are feeling se- percent at Old Navy North America and a March, including online sales. Costco * 6.0 8.0 7.0 8.0 curer in their jobs this year with 9 percent pickup at Gap North America. “March sales exceeded our the economy and employment Banana Republic, up 12 percent in expectations beyond the benefits Ross Stores 10.0 -1.0 9.0 5.0 slowly improving. At this point, February, stayed positive with a 5 percent we anticipated from an earlier Stein Mart -0.3 -3.9 0.7 -3.9 gas prices hovering around an increase and international, expected by Easter and a shift in a cosmet- Target 7.3 -5.5 7.0 4.3 average of $4 a gallon have not analysts to decline 6.8 percent, instead ics event from April last year to hampered spending much. moved to 2 percent up from 9 percent March this year,” said Terry J. TJX Cos. 10.0 -1.0 9.0 7.0 “There is some underly- down in February. Lundgren, chairman, president Average: 6.6 -0.7 6.5 4.1 ing strength in the business,” and ceo of Macy’s, which had a 7.3 observed Laura Gurski, part- OFF-PRICE AND ON THE MARK: A few years percent gain in comparable sales, ner and global head of A.T. ago, it might have been easy to attribute including e-commerce revenues. Tally: Kearney’s retail practice. “We the strong numbers generated by the “Once again, our strength in per- Up 18 10 18 13 don’t have the big shocking news nation’s two largest off-price retailers, formance was balanced across Flat 0 0 0 0 that would destabilize spend- The TJX Cos. Inc. and Ross Stores Inc., Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, ing. Even if the weather had not to nervous shoppers for whom thrift had stores and online, geographies Down 3 11 3 8 been so nice, we would have ex- practically become a religion. Not anymore. and families of business.” Total 21 21 21 21 pected an uptick, maybe more The two reported matching comp increases Target Corp. reported 7.3 per- gradual than it was.” of 10 percent last month and, like Target cent growth, versus an estimate of SOURCE: COMPANY reporTS *Excludes fuel sales She expects that April and Corp., lifted first-quarter profit estimates. 5.4 percent, reflecting what Gregg May will also yield good results, — ARNOLDJ. KARR Steinhafel, chairman, president results, but the market continued to slide as economic based on trends since Christmas. and ceo of the mass merchandiser, worries lingered from earlier in the week and investors “In 2010, we had a really strong described as a “healthy underly- looked ahead to today’s employment report. holiday that did not continue into the first quarter. This ing trend” in business to go with the advantageous Easter The S&P Retail Index rose 4.19 points to 624.72, as year, we had another strong holiday and it did continue. timing and the weather last month. the Dow Jones Industrial Average fell 14.61 points to Apparel sales have been very strong.” One possible factor behind that healthy underlying 13,060.14. Fashion’s gainers included Ross Stores Inc., “Stores were up against weaker numbers last year, trend could be how an increasing number of retailers are up 2.5 percent to $59.81; The TJX Cos. Inc., 2.4 per- but there is no question they did well in March. Easter operating. “They’ve become much more scientific in their cent to $40.29; Lululemon Athletica Inc., 2.3 percent to is significant and a lot of the business is done at regular approach to inventory management and flow,” Aronson $77.06, and Ralph Lauren Corp., 2.3 percent to $178.06. price,” said Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail said. “It’s much more analytic and process-driven.”  — with contributions from strategy at Kurt Salmon Associates. U.S. retail stocks perked up 0.7 percent on the comp  Arnold J. Karr and Evan Clark

On the management front, officials Penney’s to Trim 900 Jobs as Firm Streamlines Operations said new approaches to pricing, promo- tion, merchandising, and re-creating the {Continued from page one} rate headquarters, as well as $400 mil- Steve Lossing, president of the com- customer experience requires “a more place a new operating structure that cre- lion in cost savings in store operations pany’s big & tall men’s concept, The competitive operational structure, with ates a winning organization built on ef- and $300 million in advertising expense Foundry Big & Tall Supply Co., was also a fewer layers of management, wider spans ficiency. For instance, we’re rebuilding savings. The changes are expected to victim of the layoffs Thursday. His depar- of control and greater accountability our merchandising and planning and reduce expenses to below 30 percent ture could indicate Penney’s is ready to throughout the organization.” allocation teams to continually curate of sales by the end of 2013 and help abandon the business that was launched “Simplicity is one of the guiding prin- our product offering, edit brands and Penney’s achieve an expense run rate of last April. It was part of the company’s ciples of our transformation,” Johnson assortments as appropriate.” 27 percent by the completion of its rein- Growth Brands Division, a separate busi- said. “In years past, we’ve motivated our Kramer also cited the plan to refor- vent strategy in 2015. ness that included Clad, a men’s Web site customers with endless promotions and mat Penney’s selling floors into a mix of A spokeswoman told WWD on Thursday and Gifting Grace, an online gift site. Clad discounts, and that required a lot of pro- “stores,” “shops” and “boutiques” and re- that since Penney’s “fair and square” pricing is being shuttered on April 27. cess-oriented work. At the new J.C. Penney, imagine the main aisles into The Street strategy and liberalized returns policy began When The Foundry launched last we’re beginning to inspire customers with for better activities and new kinds of ac- Feb. 1, call center volume has decreased year, the plan was to roll out the concept, great merchandise, an exciting shopping tivities, as first reported Wednesday by more than 30 percent due to fewer cus- which targets the big & tall customer, environment and ‘fair and square’ pric- WWD. The stores, shops and boutiques tomer concerns related to coupons, prices aggressively and was planning to have ing. Just 60 days into our transformation, will be at least 2,000, 500 and 300 square and returns. “This overwhelmingly demon- 300 stores within five years. However, we can see — more clearly than we even feet, respectively, and feature “newness strates that customers are being taken care according to The Foundry Web site, the imagined — that this is a simpler way to do on a monthly basis in the rhythm of our of either at the store or through jcp.com — business remains at 10 stores, the num- business and a better way to compete. customers’ lives,” Kramer said Thursday. without the need for further assistance,” the ber with which the concept launched. “We are also transitioning from a cul- “Actions like this will enable us to quick- spokeswoman said. “As a result of this shift Sources said business at the stores has ture based on management to one based ly take advantage of a variety of expense in demand, we made the strategic decision been less than stellar and there are ap- on leadership,” Johnson added. “We are savings opportunities while enhancing to reduce the number of call centers from parently no plans to open additional going to operate like a start-up. We are our profit formula for the long term.” three to two.” The other two call centers are freestanding units. The concept could, going to extend the reach and span of In January, as officials unveiled the in Columbus, Ohio, and Milwaukee. however, become one of the new lineup control of our very best talent. We are reinvention strategy, they disclosed plans Asked how many cuts will occur at of shops within the Penney’s stores. going to be nimble, quick to learn, quick- to reduce annual expenses by $900 mil- the stores, the spokeswoman responded, A Penney’s spokeswoman confirmed er to react and totally committed to re- lion by the end of 2013. This includes “We did not announce any changes to Lossing’s departure and added, “We have alizing our vision to become America’s $200 million in savings from the corpo- stores today.” not provided an update on The Foundry.” favorite store.”

w06a008a;14.indd 8 4/5/12 7:52 PM 04052012195328 UNIVERSAL LANGUAGE: Omar Sy was a big attraction following a Museum of Modern Art screening of his breakout film “The WWDSTYLE Intouchables.” PAGE 10

Call Me Alber

Alber Elbaz continued to celebrate his 10th anniversary with Lanvin on Thursday at Barneys New York, where Uma Thurman co-hosted a luncheon in the designer’s honor. When presenting the label’s fall collection, Elbaz used a 007-themed cardboard cutout to indulge in some prop comedy: “Every time before I have a big show or presentation, I say I’m going to go on a diet and then I start tasting everything, so you know what.…Here is James and here I am.” For more, see page 10. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER

American Society of Magazine running little idea incubators and DIEGO SOUNDS OFF: Diego Della where he goes, I will continue MEMO PAD Editors. (There’s actually a secret we’ve found that print people are Valle has spoken his mind again, this way,” said Della Valle in sixth finalist selected by the actually good at this.” displeased with the decisions Thursday’s daily ELLIE OF THE YEAR: This year’s judges, in case one of the top five Adam Moss, editor in chief made by the main shareholders La Repubblica. finalists for the National is disqualified.) of New York, took the nomina- of RCS Mediagroup on It is understood Della Magazine Awards’ Magazine David Remnick, editor of The New tion in stride. “Well, everyone is the new governance of the Valle will continue to try and of the Year are Esquire, New Yorker — which is nominated very happy about it, of course,” company, which owns Italy’s increase his stake in RCS and York, The New Yorker, Popular for six other Ellies, as is New he noted. “But we beat Popular daily Corriere della Sera. The to form new alliances. Mechanics and Time. All the York — pointed out the diversity Mechanics last week in the bowl- chairman and chief executive Last year, Della Valle, award winners will be revealed of finalists for the top honor ing league, so really, the Magazine officer of Tod’s SpA, who has a who sits on the board of at the so-called Ellies on May 3 at and the attendant complexity of of the Year thing is just gravy.” stake of more than 5 percent in giant insurer Assicurazioni the New York Marriott Marquis, choosing a winner. “Because of — DAVID LIPKE the publishing group, slammed Generali SpA, initiated a with Brian Williams of NBC News the diversity of magazines, the the proverbial door earlier this shake-up of Italy’s financial hosting the event. radical differences in intent or ENTER BEAUTY: To mark Fab.com’s week and didn’t mince words world, a tightly knit clique, “This is a great category subject matter or spirit, there’s foray into the beauty world, a with Fiat chairman John Elkann established and consolidated because it’s about how a an element of apples and oranges virtual pop-up shop, launched and the presidents of two of over the years, leading to the publication performs as a brand, that’s inescapable,” he noted. “But in collaboration with Glamour Italy’s main banks, Intesa resignation of Cesare Geronzi as not just in print,” said Rick Stengel, that takes nothing away from the magazine, will go live on Monday. Sanpaolo and Mediobanca. president of Generali. managing editor of Time. He fact that it is, as all those Oscar The site will feature a collection Dubbing Elkann, who is 36, as — LUISA ZARGANI noted that big news events like nominations tell us every year, an of curated beauty offerings, chosen “just a kid” and “an amateur,” the 10th anniversary of 9/11, honor just to be nominated.” by Glamour editors and the Fab. according to several Italian UP AND OUT: Zoë Bruns is out the Arab Spring and the royal The award, won by National com team. According to Fab.com media reports, Della Valle the door as Harper’s Bazaar’s wedding provided rich material Geographic last year, honors the co-founder Bradford Shellhammer, accused them of wanting to photography and bookings for the newsweekly’s print, online title that has most distinguished the site will feature about 90 control the newspaper and director. She is set to join J. and video platforms last year. itself across the entire spectrum products and 13 brands. “This is released his shares from the Crew as vice president of brand A cadre of 345 judges from of publishing, including print, just like a pop-up shop you’d find block voting shareholders’ design. Harper’s Bazaar plans the magazine and journalism online and mobile devices. on a street corner in SoHo,” said agreement. “I am free now.… to name Bruns’ successor education fields select the “This is what it means to run Shellhammer, adding that Nobody has ever gifted me shortly, according to a Hearst finalists and winners of the a magazine today, which is a the members-only e-commerce site with shares. And I never had spokeswoman. various Ellies in both print and much broader enterprise than launched less than a year ago and them on behalf of a company, Bruns could not be reached digital, with a panel of 13 judges just the print product,” said Jim currently has 3.2 million members. nor did I ever manage them for comment at press time, but adjudicating the Magazine of the Meigs, editor in chief of Popular Glamour’s May issue will feature for bank. Those are old-school Hearst and J. Crew confirmed Year prize — the winner of which Mechanics and editorial director a spotlight on a selection of the methods that flounder easily. her plans. J. Crew declined to has already been selected, said of the men’s enthusiast group products to be highlighted on I can say that I will go on: provide more details of her new Sid Holt, chief executive of the at Hearst Magazines. “We are Fab.com. — BELISA SILVA as person who buys [shares] role. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG 10 WwD FRIDAY, APRIL 6, 2012 Lunchtime Gush eye There was a familial directed to the charity. feel in the air at the Lanvin “Everyone loves Alber,” presentation at Barneys New Thurman said upon arrival, York on Thursday afternoon as turning to greet Elbaz, who the retailer feted Alber Elbaz’s quietly professed some nerves. 10th year at the label with a “You’re nervous?” Thurman noontime luncheon. grinned, incredulous. “It’s a strange thing to “I have to speak, a little look back on, 10 years,” Elbaz speech,” Elbaz explained. “We are mused before the show near not all as good at delivering lines.” a chandelier bestrewn with The presentation drew some of the line’s jewelry and guests like Katie Lee, Adelina trademark loose velvet bows Wong Ettelson, Lisa Airan and (echoing the black one tied Giambattista Valli. “There used to around his neck). “In fashion, be a time in fashion when we ichner E

one year you’re in and the all hated each other and would next you’re out. So 10 years is send nasty messages,” Elbaz teve S certainly something.” later said of Valli. “Now we all A noticeably pregnant send flowers, well, I send a cake by Uma Thurman co-hosted the or macaroons, but there’s a Models in the Lanvin show.

event, largely to draw eyes to great respect between all of us.” photos her charity Room to Grow, a The night before, Barneys nonprofit dedicated to enriching chief executive officer Mark Lee a piece of art off the wall, a tradition and know-how and are the women I love.…Women the lives of babies born into had hosted an intimate dinner toilet overflowed, a cake with it’s almost like California today are not what they used to poverty through the first three for Elbaz at his home, where sparklers set the alarm off and cuisine. We take the tradition, be. They’re not just beautiful years of development. Ten no less than three miniature a fireman came…but I was just but we take off the butter creatures. I always used to percent of proceeds from disasters had apparently taken so touched that Mark had us at and replace it with olive oil. say that women are strong Lanvin sales on Thursday were place. “Oh, the wind knocked his home,” Elbaz explained. The house of Lanvin is the and men are powerful. Power “Barneys is a very emotional oldest couture house in the you can buy at the bank, you place for me,” the designer world. And so I took some old can lose it at the bank. But said, addressing the room. pieces and remade them to strength is internal. Women Uma “Eighteen years ago I met my be relevant: and that’s what now are not only strong but also Thurman partner here, on the third floor, it’s about. Being relevant, powerful, and this is a deadly in Lanvin. and we’re still together.…In being comfortable and being combination. These are the our first season, Barneys came beautiful. Because there’s women that we’re dressing. I and then left after 15 minutes nothing intellectual about a ask day after day, ‘What is it and they said ‘We’re not able red dress, and there’s nothing that we want, that we need?’ to buy Lanvin because you’re intellectual about a roasted What we’re looking for more not prepared, you don’t have chicken. It’s just beautiful.” than anything is to be loved, to the prices, some dresses aren’t Elbaz continued, reflecting be hugged, to be with people finished.’ When I heard that, I on his early years at the house: who we feel comfortable ran after them with a bouquet “I remember this woman came enough to sit and be silent of flowers that had been on my and told me, ‘Every time I wear with when we’re tired, and table. I said, ‘I’m sorry, please Lanvin, men fall in love with that’s what we’re trying to do at come back, we’re not ready, it’s me,’ and I said to her, ‘I want Lanvin. To bring you love.” our first-ever show,’ and since you to wear Lanvin and fall Gauging by the crowd of then, family was Barneys and in love…be more active, don’t friends and admirers who Giambattista Barneys was family.” let go, don’t just be waiting for besieged the designer postshow, Valli Introducing his collection, someone to fall in love with the feeling was mutual. Elbaz said, “We took a lot of you, you have to do it.’ These — ALESSANDRA CODINHA

Omar Sy For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. French Touch Alexa On WEDNesday night at La Sy’s humor transcends subtitles. Chung Petite Maison, Omar Sy’s English Weinstein was likely banking on translator was getting a workout. that charisma when he backed The Weinstein Co. and Chopard the film’s U.S. release, a move had just screened the French that furthered his recent trend of actor’s breakout film, “The scooping up French productions Intouchables,” across the street such as “Sarah’s Key” and “The at the Museum of Modern Art and Artist.” (Sy, it’s worth noting, beat Sy had a number of enthusiastic out Jean Dujardin for this year’s cinemagoers to receive. best actor Cesar two days before “We were all crying and the Oscars.) laughing, and I wish they made “I think they’re making more films like that because it had movies now because they’ve so much beauty,” a visibly excited settled the Internet,” Weinstein Lucy Sykes gushed to the actor. “And said when asked of his Gallic I’m in love with you! I’m married. tendencies. “There’s no piracy in But I am in love with you.” France. If you pirate something, Sy didn’t need to wait for his they will cut your Internet interpreter to translate Sykes’ service off. Seriously. They made general sentiment to offer up a tough laws. They’re protecting polite “thank you, thank you” the industry. The artists, actors, in return. A few minutes later, and musicians are all getting Harvey Weinstein made his way up their share of royalties and with Stanley Crouch, who wanted business is booming over there, to know if Sy read English. so they have the economics to There was maybe a project they make great movies.” could work on. Inevitably, there has been talk In short, “The Intouchables,” of an American remake of “The which has been a sensation at Intouchables.” Sy demurred the French box office since its when given the chance to pick November release, was a hit his English-speaking successor. with the New York crowd, which “You know, I’ve been asked also included Valentino, Alexa this question multiple times Chung, Olivier Theyskens, Tamara today,” Sy said through his

ichner Mellon and Eddie Borgo. In the translator as he nudged his E feel-good, odd-couple story, Sy chin at Weinstein. “I really teve S

deploys his comedic chops as have no idea. You shouldn’t

by the irrepressible caretaker of ask me. You should ask the Valentino a wheelchair-bound aristocrat. person behind you.”

photos Though the film is in French, — MATTHEW LYNCH

w06a010a.indd 10 4/5/12 7:32 PM 04052012193356 WWD friday, april 6, 2012 11 WWD.COM

camilla Fashion scoops Belle

FLYING HIGH: to spy Karl Lagerfeld’s latest surprising collaboration, listen to the skies. agustaWestland has tapped Lagerfeld to design VIp helicopters, both the interiors and exteriors. the anglo-Italian company, controlled by Italy’s Finmeccanica, is to initially focus on its aW139 twin-turbine helicopter, though the partnership may be extended to other commercial models. agustaWestland said Lagerfeld’s “creativity and sophisticated style” would allow it to “introduce a new, limited edition, customized solution” for its growing customer base. the company’s Web site notes that the aW139 is able to carry up to 15 passengers with plenty of luggage at “very high speed.” — MILes socHa

JoINING RYKIeL: eric Langon is leaving Lancel to join Sonia rykiel, where he will start work as managing director clare on april 16. Langon is currently chief Waight Cotton Inks New Faces for Campaign operating officer of Lancel, owned by Keller

Compagnie Financière richemont. He FEUGERE STEPANE BY PHOTO Cotton InCorporated is doing its Cotton Inc. has budgeted $20 million has been heading the leather goods own take on “a tale of two Cities,” with for the campaign, spread over television firm’s operations since chief executive de la Bourdonnaye highlighted the launch of two television spots featur- and the Internet, Sciachitano said. officerMarc Lelandais left the company in a coincidence: that Chloé’s 60th ing singer-actress emmy rossum and ac- the television commercials, created by January, as reported, and was believed anniversary this year coincides with tress Camilla Belle. the spots will high- ddB new York and styled by Hollywood by some to be tipped for the maison’s the Queen’s diamond Jubilee and light their respective hometowns of new fashion stylist anthony Franco, will show top post. at Sonia rykiel, he will work the olympic Games in London. “May York and Los angeles and give their takes rossum exiting a black-tie event in a red under ceo Jean-Marc Loubier, also ceo France win more gold medals than the on the organization’s signature song. cotton lace dress by Monique Lhuillier, of Fung Brands, which acquired an 80 english,” he teased. Marking the fourth installment of riding the subway in a blue cotton jacket percent stake in the French fashion French model and actress Marina Cotton Inc.’s “the Fabric of My Life” by elie tahari, hosting a dinner party in a house in February. — aLeX WYNNe Vacth said she just wrapped up a short campaign, the aim of the commercials is black-and-white polka dot dress by oscar film whose title translates to “the to show the versatility of cotton apparel de la renta and recording the track wear- aNDY’s RoaD TRIP: andy Hilfiger is taking Man with the Golden Brain,” which is in the distinctive styles of the two cities. ing a bouclé sweater by phillip Lim. his andrew Charles line on a West headed for the Cannes Film Festival. the “new York tale,” featuring Belle’s commercial touches on her Coast road trip. the brand has already next up is a feature length film by rossum, star of the Showtime series Brazilian heritage and features the ac- staged fashion shows and concerts director Philip Gröning. — M.s. “Shameless,” will make its debut on tress walking through the lobby of the featuring new York-based band the Monday and run on Fox, aBC and the dorothy Chandler pavilion in Los angeles Click Clack Boom at Macy’s San diego PURIsT DeLIGHT: John Pawson, the CW, as well as other cable networks. “the wearing a yellow and white cotton dress and temecula, Calif., stores, and this architect behind the Calvin Klein L.a. Story” with Belle is still in the edit- by thakoon, doing a tap routine in a blue weekend it will host an event at the Collection Madison avenue flagship, ing stage, but is slated to run on the same prada dress, picking up fresh produce Sherman oaks, Calif. store with steven returned to one of his most famous networks in the next two weeks. Belle has at an outdoor market in a cotton skirt by Tyler, the face of its men’s collection, fashion spaces on Wednesday when starred in such films as “From prada to Marc Jacobs and lounging in a hammock and his daughter chelsea, an aspiring the brand’s creative directors, Francisco nada,” “the Ballad of Jack and rose” wearing a botanical print dress from Milly. model who is the face for the women’s costa and Italo Zucchelli, celebrated his and “push.” In conjunction with the televi- campaign. the Saturday runway show new tome, “a Visual Inventory,” there. “We partner with inspirational young sion commercials, Cotton Inc., on its will feature spring looks styled with “amazing,” Costa said of the book. “In a celebrity ambassadors who resonate theFabricofourLives.com Web site, will Steven tyler’s own onstage costumes way, it’s very John: very pure, but also with our core demographic of women 18 run a multimedia tour of rossum’s clos- and music by Hilfiger’s own band. that very romantic.” to 34,” said Glenn Sciachitano, director et, a blog by Belle and behind-the-scenes evening, an invite-only crowd will take Zucchelli was equally full of praise of advertising at Cotton Inc. “they give footage and images from the shoots, in in the Click Clack Boom’s West Coast for pawson’s collection of snapshots. us a great palette to showcase the versa- addition to celebrity bios and interviews debut at the Viper room, where Mia “they are very evocative and very tility of cotton garments by showcasing and audio and lyric downloads of their Tyler’s photographs of the band will also beautiful,” he said. their interests.” new cotton songs. — KRISTI ELLIS be on display. the next stop will be a show at Macy’s Fashion Show Mall store in Las Vegas. Hilfiger said he’s not sure who the brand will link with for its fall campaign (tyler’s contract expires this year), but he’s considering some “out-of-the-box” options. Up next for andrew Charles is a line of guitars, For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. while extensions like tailored clothing

and accessories are slated for future FARRELL/BFANYC.COM BILLY BY PHOTO seasons. — MaRcY MeDINa cHaNNeL sURFING: “Welcome to the country Spaces of the 35-hour work week,” Chloé chief executive officerGeoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, COMMERCIAL a Frenchman, declared Wednesday night in paris as he hosted a dinner for the REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS DRAPER SPECIALIST brand’s designer, clare Waight Keller, the Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Sought by Special Occasion Dress/ fourth young englishwoman to helm the Francisco costa, John Pawson and Italo Zucchelli. Separates Co. with knowledge of gar- brand in recent years. ment construction & textile. Must have excellent org. skills & keen atten- Speaking to about 30 journalists Nora Zehetner, amanda Brooks, Harold Showrooms & Lofts tion to detail. Min of 3-5 years exp gathered at the 1728 restaurant, de la Koda and Ian schrager, as well as Calvin BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS req’d. Please fax resume to 212-302- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail 9325 or email [email protected] Bourdonnaye explained how Waight Klein Inc.’s Tom Murry and Kevin carrigan, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Keller, previously at pringle of Scotland, came to tip their hat to the Brit, who arrived in the job last august, when was in his element in a gray Calvin most employees were on vacation, Klein Collection suit and matching tie. maternity leave or using up rtts, the “When my son got married, and he’s 26, term for additional days employees can the only people not wearing ties were recoup for working extra hours. the old guys,” pawson recalled. “now Waight Keller proved she’s adapted wearing a tie and a suit, I feel young to her new milieu, arriving at the dinner and it’s rather nice.” “fashionably late,” de la Bourdonnaye asked if there is room to update related approvingly. Waight Keller said the 17-year-old flagship, pawson didn’t she would soon take a two-week break and hesitate. “I don’t want to sound too head back to the British Midlands, eager to confident,” he said with a smile, “but (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] reconnect with its green and pleasant land what’s really reassuring is that I after working flat out in paris for months. wouldn’t.” — MaRc KaRIMZaDeH

w06a011a.indd 11 4/5/12 8:03 PM 04052012200445 12 WwD friday, april 6, 2012 WWD.COM Wal-Mart’s Women Initiative Wal-Mart Stores Inc. on and chief executive officer Mike Thursday revealed the launch of Duke laid out in September. The a five-year program to empower retailer has been criticized in the 60,000 women who work in the fac- past for its treatment of its female tories it uses, teaching them criti- workforce, which has sparked a cal life skills such as communica- number of lawsuits alleging gender tion, hygiene, reproductive health, discrimination. The most famous is occupational health and safety. the Betty Dukes v. Wal-Mart case, “Through this program, which went to the Supreme Court women in the supply chain seeking class action but was de- will receive the education and nied and now has reverted back to training they need to achieve cases at the local court level. greater success in their jobs and Wal-Mart, which chalked up

a

r live a better life,” said Rajan $444 billion in sales last year, be-

Mit Kamalanathan, vice president came the world’s largest retailer t r of Wal-Mart Ethical Sourcing. by squeezing cost out of the sup- Inside the Up to 8,000 women will also ply chain and passing on much Robe

revamped bY get leadership training. The pro- of the savings to shoppers in the flagship. gram will help women identify form of low prices. Ultimately,

photo personal strengths and under- Wal-Mart sees women’s issues as stand gender sensitivity. a bottom-line issue. Wal-Mart said the initiative “By educating and empow- Ferragamo Goes Big on Fifth was innovative in the retail ering women in factories and and apparel industry since it creating a stronger supply added. “New York is a signifi- categories. The company’s busi- was designed to help women at chain, suppliers realize greater By Sharon Edelson cant driver of our rtw.” ness breaks down to 55 percent home as well as work, teaches efficiencies in their factories, A red and black pinstripe suit women’s and 45 percent men’s. suppliers how to sustain the which should result in higher NEW YORK — Ferragamo is $2,140 for the jacket and $980 Ottomanelli said the flag- program permanently and will quality products, lower pric- today unveils its newly reno- for the pants, a long halter dress ship’s store design will be used be shared with other retailers. es and more reliable product vated Fifth Avenue flagship with an enamel chain at the for future renovations and new The program, which was put availability for customers,” said which, at 20,000 square feet, is neck, $4,650, and a navy gown openings. “We want to repli- together with the help of aid Michelle Gloeckler, senior vice its largest store in the world. with diamondlike clasp, $5,900. cate this look in our stores,” he groups, will be rolled out to president of Home for Wal-Mart. The store at 663 Fifth A Salvatore Ferragamo said. “After we renovate a store Bangladesh and India this year, Through its women’s econom- Avenue and 53rd Street, is Creations room has antique we’ve been seeing nice double- with China and Central America ic empowerment program, Wal- brighter and more open, with mirror-covered walls and is digit increases.” coming later. Mart aims to source more from 22-foot ceilings on the ground filled with photos of the found- Ottomanelli said renovation The Women in Factories women-owned businesses, help floor and a walnut, steel and er and designer with celebrity work will begin next week at program is part of the Global women on farms and in facto- glass staircase that connects the clients such as Marilyn Monroe the Vancouver store. Ferragamo Women’s Economic Empowerment ries and supply job training and first and second floors. Italian and Rudolph Valentino. The is unveiling a new store at the Initiative that Wal-Mart’s president education. — EVAN CLARK stone floors, Venetian plaster room will showcase the 10 to 15 Fashion Valley Mall in San walls, wood veneers and glass limited edition collections that Diego and there are plans to etched with the house’s gros- are produced from Ferragamo’s renovate the San Francisco unit. grain pattern give the store archives each year. Last year, stores in Las Vegas at a rich feel. Walls covered in A large shoe salon replete Caesar’s Palace and Atlanta at Honduras Draws Union Ire walnut and divided into grid with leather couches and the Lenox Square Mall were WASHINGTON — The AFL-CIO in the maquila sector, the vast patterns by strips of stainless chairs features everything renovated. Ferragamo plans to and 12 Honduran labor orga- majority are in the textile and steel — the company calls them from suede wedge espadrilles double the size of its existing nizations have filed a petition garment industry.” Mondrian walls — showcase for $395 to T-strap sandals with Chicago flagship. with the U.S. Department of She stressed that the peti- products on recessed shelves. embroidered silver chains, With 37 units in the U.S., Labor alleging labor violations tion is against the Honduran A new area was carved out for $795. Handbags include a red Ottomanelli said the compa- by companies in apparel, tex- government, “not the bad actor fine jewelry, which launched in suede drawstring duffle with ny’s strategy is to renovate and tiles and other industries. employers. the fall and features silver and lizard trim, $2,200. The soft W expand existing stores while The document accuses the “What is happening is that gold designs with diamonds, in- handbag is $1,850, a pebbled selectively adding new ones. government of Honduras of fail- when the government sees a pat- cluding silk cord bracelets with leather tote, $1,800 and a chain- In Florida, where Ferragamo ing to enforce its labor laws tern of this happening, they do silver charms and gold pen- covered evening clutch, $2,250. operates three stores, the com- under the Central American not go to the employer and [en- dants encrusted with diamonds, The second floor is devoted pany is eyeing Miami’s Design Free Trade Agreement by not up- force the law.],” she said. priced from $250 to $15,000. to men’s wear. It’s a darker District and is considering an holding laws that enable workers The petition also cites alleged Ready-to-wear, including variation on the first level, with additional store in Houston. It to unionize, organize and bar- labor violations in the agricul- runway designs, are show- dark stained oak floors and also is eyeing Toronto and is gain collectively or promoting ture and port operations sector. cased on the left side of the brown corduroy seating. Men’s looking at several locations on acceptable working conditions. The Labor Department will store. In the flagship, rtw rep- shoes are displayed in fixtures Madison Avenue in Manhattan. Celeste Drake, trade and glo- investigate and issue a pub- resents 15 percent of total along windows facing onto Fifth “We believe it would have to balization policy specialist at lic report with its findings. sales, Ferragamo president Avenue. Ottomanelli said men’s be very special and different,” the AFL-CIO, who declined to If the agency finds sufficient Vincent Ottomanelli said. “Rtw and women’s shoes and hand- Ottomanelli said. “We would release the petition because it evidence of violations and in- drives all of our categories,” he bags are the company’s biggest like to create a little jewel box.” is confidential, said it contains vestigations by the U.S. Trade allegations of labor violations Representative’s Office and at apparel and textile factories State Department find that in the maquila sector, which Honduras has failed to meet its imports fabric from the U.S. labor obligations under CAFTA, Matt Bernson Opens First Outpost and then exports finished ap- the U.S. government can re- were up more than 90 percent parel, in Honduras. She said the quest consultations with the By ALEXANDRA in 2010, and in 2011, they grew charges primarily center around Honduran government. If those STEIGRAD 110 percent year over year. employers illegally firing the consultations fail to resolve the Since the recession, the brand founding members of unioniza- problem, the U.S. can request Matt Bernson keeps grow- has only grown, and has been tion drives and the Honduran an arbitration panel. ing his footprint. profitable for the past three- government’s failure to force Ultimately, if Honduras fails The accessories designer, and-a-half years. He declined the companies to reinstate the to address the problem, its gov- best known for handmade to reveal total revenues. “illegally fired workers.” ernment could be forced to pay women’s gladiator sandals, is With the bulk of his busi- “A big portion of it [the com- $15 million into an annual fund opening his first store in New ness coming from online, spe- plaint] is in the maquila sector,” to improve labor standards. York’s TriBeCa neighborhood cialty stores and select de- Drake said. “Of all of the cases  — KRISTI ELLIS on Monday. The news follows a partment stores like Bergdorf flurry of expansion efforts, in- Goodman, Bernson is now icksen

cluding a larger fall handbag of- r embarking on a new frontier e Lendrum Exits Gucci America fering, a new leather-based jew- le with his 2,200-square-foot bou- y

Inside Matt k

elry collection and a men’s line Y tique. From the light fixtures NEW YORK — Laura Lendrum, including an 11,000-square-foot B of smoking-style shoes for fall. Bernson’s to the furniture, all elements of who served as president of unit in Crystals at CityCenter in Founded in 2005, Bernson’s TriBeCa store. the store, which overlooks the Gucci America for nearly Las Vegas and a 6,445-square- PHOTO label is also rolling out a five- brand’s showroom, were select- two years, has left the firm. foot boutique at NorthPark piece collection of caged boots, ble but to keep the prices acces- ed or designed by Bernson to Lendrum resigned to pursue Center in Dallas. mary janes and suede fringe boo- sible,” Bernson told WWD from reflect the brand’s aesthetic of other opportunities. At the end of 2011, North ties that it created with Dannijo his new store on 20 Harrison St. urban elegance and rustic ease. The executive joined Gucci America accounted for 18 per- for fall. While the collaboration “The focus is on doing things “The goal is to open mul- in 1997, and moved to Yves Saint cent of total Gucci revenues. will retail for between $238 and well. It’s never to do things big- tiple stores in the next three to Laurent America as president Gucci president and chief ex- $370, Bernson’s core offering of ger, bigger, bigger. It’s a focus on five years,” he said, pinpoint- in 2001. She was named Gucci ecutive officer Patrizio di Marco sandals, boots and flats ranges how well we can do it.” ing markets in Los Angeles, America president in 2010, sup- will oversee the Americas re- from $125 to $325. That approach has paid Chicago, Florida and Texas. porting the development of the gion in the interim until the “The idea was to make the dividends, according to the de- “But first we want to test this business here. During that time, company names a successor. highest-quality product possi- signer, who said that revenues store and see what works.” Gucci opened a number of stores,  — MarcKarimzadeh

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