TABLE OF CONTENTS: Key dates 2 Fryderyk Chopin’s Family 4 Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw 7 Warsaw addresses of the Chopins 8 Secondary school and college _ 9 DOWNLOAD Chopin concerts 10 APPLICATION Daily life in Warsaw 12 CHOPIN ROUTE Holy Cross Church 13 The Royal Baths with the Chopin monument 14 The Chopin Museum 14 tourist guide Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia 17 www.dziedzictwomazowsza.pl Milanówek 18 Łazy – Pasikonie – Zawady 19 Żelazowa Wola 21 Brochów 25 Sochaczew 26 Sanniki 30 Płock 33 Kowalewo 36 Sierpc 37 Project entitled “Tourist routes showcasing the cultural heritage of Mazovia”, co-funded by the European Union from Rościszewo 38 the European Regional Development Fund, as part of the Regional Operational Programme of the Mazowieckie Voivodship for 2007-2013, Priority 6.2 Tourism O

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Szydłowo Mchowo Zabiele Olszewo- Str. -Borki Paliwodzizna RYPIN Kuczbork Podkrajewo Wiśniewo Kępa Amelin Wlk. Cieszki ŻUROMIN Grudusk Węgra Brzuze Godziszewy Okalewo Biernaty Nożewo Bartniki Krasnosielc Pietrzyk Będzymin Poniatowo Str. Piegłowo- Ugoszcz Kliczewo Kosiny Stupsk -Wieś Czernice Chodkowo- Rafały Zakrocz Franciszkowo Duże Szreńsk Borowe -Kuchny Sypniewo Nadróż Skrwilno Łysakowo Obrębiec PRZASNYSZ Karwacz Działyń Puszcza Zamość Kołaki Miejska Chrapoń Strzałkowo Dobrzankowo Płoniawy- Zbójno Obory Golany -Bramura Stawiszyn- Liberadz w Kijaszkowo Lutocin Kowalewko Morawy c Gąsewo Sławkowo -Łaziska y e Bogate z BIAŁYSTOK r Rogowo Zimolza Dąbrowa r Poduchowne a

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Wola Brwileńska Bulkowo a SZYDŁOWIEC Smolana Bu Blichowo Sosenkowo Przyborowice Wola Cegielnia Kośc. Psucka Niegów Rakutowo 8 Krysk SEROCK Kania Polska Brwilno Dln. Ramutowo LIPSKO MAZOVIA. Today, it is the heart of Poland. At the time when the Republic was being formed, it had been Borowiczki Naruszewo Załuski KOWAL Dzierżanowo Janowo Kikoły Zabrodzie Miałkówek Słupno Dębe Jadwisin Dąbrówka Trojany Baruchowo I a separate state for more than three centuries. In the centre of the region is the bustling metropolis of I Bodzanów I Kroczewo Pomiechówek Narew I Zegrze a Dobrzyków I Kozły w Lucień Kobylniki Skrzeszew I Wola I Warsaw, surrounded by towns, villages and landmarks yet to be fully explored. Curious travellers will r I Krzywie I J. Zegrzyńskie Rasztowska k I Łąck Mł. Wieś I S Górki W Przybójewo WieliszewI discover mysterious castles, great manor houses, historic churches and quaint little villages, as well as old I i NW. DWÓR MAZ. I s I Białobrzegi ł Kępa ZAKROCZYM I

a I Chylin I RADZYMIN Jasienica Polska Brody Duże Chociszewo I Nieporęt I battlefields and landscapes that have been attracting filmmakers to the area for many years now. Mazovia Kanibród Ruszków Rębowo Goławin Michałów-I I I Zdwórz I

I I Klembów GOSTYNIN Wymyśle- Nw. -ReginówI LEGIONOWO I

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Kaliska I Zaborów I Duczki Nw. I R Słubice Jabłonna I RembelszczyznaI z say the magic words: Mazovia, open sesame! An then follow the route of your choice. KUJ. Szczawin Łady Cybulice Duże I ą Przęsławice Secymin I d I z Łanięta Kośc. I WOŁOMIN a Konstantynów Kamion Palmiry Sierakówek Januszew I

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I I I I I I I I I Długołęka I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I This is the CHOPIN ROUTE – a journey into Mazovia before the Industrial Revolution, and to Warsaw I I I I I I

Suserz I Wilkowia I Brochów I

I I I I Wszeliwy I Dąbrowice I I I ZIELONKA Janówek 5 I I I I Młodzieszyn I I I Izabelin I I at the beginning of the 19th century, when the classicists vied with the romantics. Following in the foot- Pacyna I Laski I Strzelce Osmolin I I I Zamczysko I I I Nw. Miksztal I Ostrowy ZĄBKI Okuniew Michałów Skrzeszewy Giżyce Łazy Julinek Borzęcin steps of the young composer, you can imagine the quickly-growing capital of 200 years ago, with its Luszyn Zaborów Duży SULEJÓWEK Grochów Sójki Oporów Kiernozia Janów WARSZAWA Kampinos neo-classical architecture, and the noisy cafes, theatres and aristocratic salons in which its cultural life KROŚNIEWICE Żelazowa 3 Leszno Rybno 4 Wola Str. ŻYCHLIN Karsznice a Dębe KUTNO P r ta Rozlazłów 6 Ut OŻARÓW MAZ. Babice 1 HALINÓW Wlk. was led. The stations at the corner of Trębackiej and Krakowskie Przedmieście streets were crowded with Zalesie r Dobrzelin z Paprotnia Boryszew Gnojno 1 Warsaw – city of Fryderyk’s youth y | p. 7 Ołtarzew s SOCHACZEW people leaving for distant places by stagecoach. From there the young Fryderyk set off to his birthplace of Wojszyce o Mastki Góraszka w PIASTÓW P Niepokalanów Bedlno a Str. is Boża BŁONIE W Wiązowna Żelazowa Wola, where today you can still hear the music of Chopin emanating from the manor house. On 2 Milanówek – where the urn with i Wola PRUSZKÓW Krzyżanów Płaskocin Dębsk a Michałowice i Daszyna Bąków ra Nw. Jeżówka s Strzegocin u Kaski ł to Sochaczew, where the young pianist performed for a general who was impressed with his great talent. Mazew Chopin’s heart was stored Dln. Goleńsko | p. 18 z Sucha Komorów Raszyn a JÓZEFÓW Witonia B Orłów Aleksandrów BRWINÓW Wola Zduny Czerwona- Otrębusy Janki Then on to Brochów and its famous fortified basilica, in which Chopin was baptised in 1810. It was also MILANÓWEK OTWOCK Ducka Ś 3 Aleja LipowaPęcławice – Fryderyk Chopin naturalSobota monument Maurzyce | p.ŁOWICZ 19 -Niwa Baranów PODKOWA Wolica Mysiadło w i from here that, at the age of 20, the composer journeyed to Vienna, and onwards towards fame that knows Romartów Ziąbki Guzów Chlebnia 2 LEŚNA Nadarzyn Lesznowola Opacz d KARCZEW e Siedlec Żelazowa Wola – the composer’s birthplace | p. 21 GRODZISK r 4 Książenice Łazy no bounds of time or place. I I Nw. Celestynów I I Wiskitki MAZ. I Piątek Bielawy Nieborów KONSTANCIN- IMarynki I Gaj I I PIASECZNO I Jaktorów I I Bolimów Międzyborów I I I I I I I I R I I I I I I I I 5 Brochów – parish of the Chopins | p.Arkadia 25 a Siestrzeń -JEZIORNA Oszkowice Jamno w Mroków Lisiewice k ŻYRARDÓW Kuklówka- Pilawa Góra a -Zarzeczna Brześce Regut The Chopin Route is one of three new routes that will enable you to discover the Mazovian Heritage. It Wilczkowice ŁĘCZYCA Św. Małgorzaty Krzyszkowice Duże Zalesie 6 Sochaczew – town visited manyM times Nw. Grudze Bełchów Wola Grn. Baniocha r Żabia o Bartniki Radziejowice Wola Mrokowska is also worth exploring the other two. The Dukes of Mazovia Route is a journey into a world of medieval ga Bogatki Chodów Solca Bednary Słubica by the Giecznocomposer Domaniewice | p. 26Polesie GÓRA KALWARIA Dziecinów Wlk. Mokra Prawa Kaleń TARCZYN Łoś Osieck castles, valiant knights, and the wise, ambitious rulers who governed Mazovia as an independent state Mąkolice GŁOWNO Warszawice OZORKÓW7 SannikiModlna – vacations with the Pruszak family Łyszkowice| p. 30 MSZCZONÓW Czachówek for three centuries. The Battle of Warsaw 1920 Route is a trek back in time and space that will help you Warszyce Lubianków Puszcza Czersk Parzęczew Pszczonów Maków Mariańska Jeżewice Rembertów understand why a battle that took place almost a century ago is considered one of the crucial events in 8 Słowik Płock – Tumskie Hill Koźle | p. 33 Prażmów Wola Natolin Kębliny SKIERNIEWICE Chudolipie Prażmowska Sobienie- M Dmosin Coniew -Jeziory os Konie Głuchów European history. Emilia zc Lesznowola a 9 Kowalewo – formerze estate of Count Zbioński | p. 36 Wola Zawady Chynów r Dąbrówka ni STRYKÓW Godzianów Strobów Pękoszewska Drwalew Podgórzyce u ca Lipce There is also an application for mobile devices z Wlk. Dalików Grotniki Reymontowskie Nw. Kawęczyn Kowiesy Osuchów Wilczoruda Słomczyn Konary B 10 Sierpc –‑ Mazovian Village Museum | p. 37 Nowomłyny For more information, visit www.dziedzictwomazowsza.pl Ługi Kołacinek GRÓJEC Mniszew Wilg a ZGIERZ Dąbrówka Byczki Grzymkowice Dębnowola Wilga 11 Rościszewo – Fryderyk Chopin memorialDuża room | p. 38 Rożce ALEKSANDRÓW Nw. Łagiewniki Sierżnia Słupia Str. Pobierowice Prawęcice Rossocha Babsk Zalesie Nw. Piaseczno Skurcza ŁÓDZKI Borysław BIAŁA Rębowola Wieś a N Rogów Belsk Jasieniec Laski icRozniszew e Jeżów Krzeszyn RAWSKA il r Bełdów BRZEZINY Duży P WARKA Rąbień Lipiny Kaleń Wilków Łychów Magnuszew Zalesie Wola Drugi Łęczeszyce Zakrzew The Chopin Route ŁÓDŹ Złota RAWA MAZ. Wólka Szwejki Chojnata Błędów Wola Wierzchy Głuchów Lesiewska Grzegorzewice Magnuszewska Huta Lutomiersk Pukinin Błędowska Broniszew Palczew Kwiatkowice KOLUSZKI Chrusty Grabów Michałów KONSTANTYNÓW Rylsk Sadkowice Goszczyn n. Pilicą Studzianki ŁÓDZKI Mł. Pancerne 1831-1832

Chopin spends eight months of 1831 in Vienna. In Life of Fryderyk Chopin Stuttgart he is crushed by the news of the outbreak of the November Uprising. Around the same time, he 1833-1834 Life of Fryderyk Chopin – key dates moves to Paris, where he will live for the rest of his life. In February 1832 he gives a public concert in the Pleyel Months full of work. Chopin spends his time giv- salon, of which it is written: “He simply slaughtered all ing concerts, teaching piano and composing. He 1810 other pianists hereabouts, all of Paris was stunned.” spends the summer of 1833 in Coteau, and visits The concert establishes Chopin in musical circles, and Brussels and Lille. In 1834 he establishes contact 1 March, Fryderyk Chopin is born in Żelazowa he begins to earn money by teaching piano. with Mendelssohn, Liszt, Hiller and Berlioz. He vis- Wola In the autumn, the Chopin family moves to 1815-1818 its Aachen, Dusseldorf, Cologne and Koblenz. Warsaw. 1835 Fryderyk begins studying the piano under Wojciech 1836-1837 1823-1825 Żywny. In 1817 the first composition by Chopin ap- In Karlovy Vary, Chopin meets his parents, and later pears in print – the stays briefly in Decin and Dresden (where his ac- In the summer, Fryderyk visits Fryderyk, previously tutored at home, becomes a Polonaise in G mi- quaintance with the Wodsiński family from Służew the Wodzińskis in Marienbad, pupil in the fourth grade at the Warsaw Lyceum. In nor. In 1818 the results in his engagement to the young Maria and later travels to Dresden, 1824 and 1825 he spends his vacation in Szafarnia, young pianist gives Wodzińska), as well as in Leipzig, Frankfurt, Heidel- Leipzig, Kassel and Frankfurt. in the Ziemia Dobrzyńska region. his first public recit- berg and Strasbourg. He meets George Sand. He al, which brings him spends an increasing amount 1826-1827 renown and marks 1838-1843 of time composing. In 1837, the beginning of he spontaneously decides to Chopin begins studying at the School of Music his career. In the Warsaw Diary, we read: “a true Beginning of his relationship with George Sand In the au- travel to London with the piano manufacturer Ca- of Warsaw University; his composition teacher is musical genius: not only does he play the most dif- tumn, Chopin travels with her and her children to Major- mille Pleyel. In August, his engagement to Maria Józef Elsner. In the summer, he visits the spa in ficult piano pieces with great facility and extraordi- ca. In 1839, despite failing health, he spends much time Wodzińska is broken off. Duszniki. In 1827, after the death of Fryderyk’s nary taste, but he has also composed a number of composing. He spends the summer at George Sand’s 1844-1846 youngest sister Emilia, the family moves to a new dances and variations which connoisseurs of music estate in Nohant. In 1840, he works intensively and takes flat in Krasiński Palace on Krakowskie Przedmieś- cannot stop extolling.” part in the social life of Paris. Over the next few months, Fryderyk experiences serious health problems. On cie. In that same year, Fryderyk composes his first he divides his time between Paris and Nohant. He works 3 May 1844, Chopin’s father Nicholas dies. 1845 sees serious pieces: Variations in B major op. 2 on the very intensively, and spends much time composing. Chopin working in Paris and spending the summer theme Là ci darem la mano from Mozart’s Don in Nohant. The first serious misunderstanding with Juan, and Sonata in C minor op. 4. In the summer 1828-1829 1847-1848 George Sand occurs. In 1846, he becomes involved he journeys to Gdańsk. with the émigré community at the Hôtel Lambert. Fryderyk spends his 1828 summer vacation in San- The conflict between him and George Sand reach- 1849 niki with the Pruszak family. In September, on a short es breaking point, and they part company. In 1848, 1830 trip, he encounters the musical life of Berlin. In 1829 though suffering much His deteriorating health forces Chopin to limit the he completes his studies, with the following com- from ill health, Chopin number of guests he sees and lessons he gives. In March, Chopin performs at two concerts at the ments by Józef Elsner: Szopen Fryderyk – ex- goes on a seven-month He writes to his sister, Ludwika: “Come if you can. National Theatre during which the young composer ceptional talent, a musical concert tour of I’m frail, and no doctor will help me like you would... also performs his own works, including the Con- genius. In the summer he England and Scotland. Today the weather is lovely, I’m sitting in the salon certo in F minor and Fantasia in A major on Polish travels to Vienna, where he On 16 November, at admiring my view over the whole of Paris.” Endless themes, which are received enthusiastically by the has a successful European the Guildhall in London, consultations with doctors result in no improve- public. In the summer, Fryderyk begins his prepa- debut. In the autumn he visits he gives the last public ment in his state of health. Fearing the worst, the rations to leave the country; he visits Poturzyn and his godmother, Anna Wie- performance of his life. composer takes care of his publishing matters and spends several days in Żelazowa Wola. On 2 No- siołowska, in Strzyżewo and Gravely ill, he returns to bids farewell to those closest to him. He dies on vember, he bids farewell to his family and friends, the family of Prince Radziwiłł Paris. 17 October. and leaves Warsaw, to which he will never return. in Antonina.

2 The Chopin Route 3 Father – Nicholas Chopin Fryderyk Chopin’s Family (15 April 1771 – 3 May 1844, Warsaw)

Nicholas was born in a French village in Lotharingia; his family lived on the grounds of an estate belonging to a Pole – Michał Jan Pac. The administrator of the estate, Adam Sister – Ludwika Jędrzejewiczowa, Weydlich, also a Pole, took an interest in the intelligent youth, and hired him to help née Chopin in the castle. When the Weydlich family moved in Warsaw in 1787, Weydlich took the François Chopin Marguerite Delfin Jakub Krzyżanowski Antonina (6 April 1807 – 29 October 1855, Warsaw) teenager with him. Nicholas had a general education, knew the basics of foreign lan- (1738-1814) (1736-1794) (approximately 1729-1805) Kołomińska guages, and was talented musically. He played the flute and violin as an amateur. After arriving in Warsaw, he worked in a boarding house, and later many gentry families Fryderyk Chopin’s eldest sister was educated at a boarding school employed him as a teacher. His last such engagement was at the estate of the Skarbek for girls, and studied music under Wojciech Żywny. After the defeat family in Żelazowa Wola. There the French immigrant met Justyna Krzyżanowska, of the November Uprising, she took an active part in patriotic as- whom he married in 1806. In 1810, when Nicholas obtained a permanent position sociations. In 1832, in Brochów, she married the Warsaw attorney teaching French at the Warsaw Lyceum, he took his young family to the capital, where Józef Kalasanty Jędrzjewicz, with whom she had four children. they settled. In addition to working at the Lyceum, he also ran a boarding house for From childhood, she was very close to her brother. After Fryderyk boys, which soon enjoyed a good reputation. left Warsaw, Ludwika corresponded with him and his friends. She visited him twice in Paris and was with him at his death. In January 1850, in accordance with her deceased brother’s wishes, she se- Mother – Justyna Chopin, Justyna Mikołaj Chopin Krzyżanowska cretly brought the heart of Fryderyk Chopin to Warsaw. née Krzyżanowska (1771-1844) (1782-1861) (14 September 1782 – 1 October 1861, Warsaw) Sister – Izabella Barcińska, née Chopin (9 July 1811 – 3 June 1881, Warsaw) She came from an impoverished noble family. Her father, Jakub Krzyżanowski, managed the estate of the Skarbek family in Izbica, Fryderyk’s younger sister was the healthiest of the four children. where Justyna grew up. She left those parts around 1800-1805 She was given a solid general education. Like Ludwika and Fry- to live in Żelazowa Wola, where she helped Countess Ludwika deryk, she took piano lessons under Wojciech Żywny. After the Skarbkowa manage her estate and run the house. It was here that defeat of the November Uprising, she became engaged in patriotic she met the tutor Nicholas Chopin, whom she married in 1806 in activity and charitable works for the benefit of orphans and the the nearby parish of Brochów. In 1807 she gave birth to a daugh- poor. At the Chopin boarding house she met her future husband, ter, Ludwika, and three years later to a son, Fryderyk. In 1810, the future mathematics professor Feliks Antoni Barciński, whom when Nicholas Chopin was given a job at the Warsaw Lyce- she married in 1834 in Warsaw. There were no children from the um, the family moved to Warsaw. There, two more daughters marriage. Izabella’s parents Justyna and Nicholas Chopin spent were born – Izabella in 1811 and Emilia in 1812. Apart from Ludwika Chopin Fryderyk Chopin Izabella Chopin Emilia Chopin the last years of their lives under her roof. her own four children, Justyna also took care of running the (1807-1855) (1810-1849) (1811-1881) (1812-1827) family boarding house for boys from the gentry class. Late in life, Justyna and Nicholas lived at the home of their daugh- Sister – Emilia Chopin ter Izabella and her husband Antoni Barciński (currently Józef Kalasanty Feliks Antoni (9 November 1812 – 10 April 1827, Warsaw) No. 47 Nowy Świat Street). Jędrzejewicz – husband Barciński – husband (1803-1853) (1803-1878) The youngest of the children was baptised at home “with water” immediately after birth, no doubt because of her frail condition, and was baptised in church a few years later, in 1815. She was a very talented girl, endowed with grace and a sense of humour. She wrote poems and plays which delighted her family. Despite Henryk Bronisław Jędrzejewicz Ludwika Magdalena Jędrzejewicz Fryderyk Bolesław Jędrzejewicz Antoni Żelisław Jędrzejewicz (1833-1899) (1835-1890) (1840-1857) (1843-1922) many courses of treatment and a hard-fought battle against con- sumption, Emilia died prematurely at the age of fifteen. This was a tragedy for the loving, closely-knit Chopin family which left its mark Ludwik Ciechomski – husband on the remaining three teenage siblings. (approximately 1827-1882)

A plaque based on the book Fryderyk Chopin. Roots by P. Mysłakowski and A. Sikorski, NIFC, Warsaw, 2010. The book focuses on Fryderyk’s immediate family – his parents and sisters. It is Jacques Jędrzejewicz Józefa Ciechomska Laura Ciechomska Ludwik Ciechomski Mateusz Ciechomski Maria Ciechomska Antoni Ciechomski Henryk Ciechomski Izabella Ciechomska (died as a child) (died as a child) worth remembering that Nicholas (1887-1918) (1859-1922) (1862-1939) (1863-1913) (1866-1918) (1868-1932) (1872-1929) Chopin’s descendants are still alive today. From among Ludwika’s grandchildren, Józefa, Mateusz and Antoni Ciechomski all had Portraits of Chopin’s family (except Emilia) – reproductions (1930) of lost paintings by A. Mieroszewski (1829). Portrait of Emilia – miniature by unknown author. descendants.

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y M m o a A b l R J a S. ln y u u M T w a z a n a National Theatre. That is half of the composer’s intense, all too short life. hm r n c b s O P ż a s G oc ó . k E I Kr G Pr n h u i o K A ZA ŻELAZNĄ BRAMĄ ka O e g S a s a s g W y K W a z a k e O kr t i ck o n T W k a a A d to n o ó I Gy o r ię 10 N Ł o w a rd a n p l w O A g Ś O n r ż P In the autumn of 1810, the Chopin family moved from He also attended performances by other artists, reg- A a a a y J. Ł a B e i e z . k pl. ł k z r S s Teatr w c r K M W ow I T B n C K T b I a z S y k s a O I a rz i Powst. c y i la E Żydowski k e k k M G z ar T c yg l s W ń a z D i P iu u i z c c C n e s z Żelazowa Wola to the capital of the Duchy of Warsaw. ularly visiting the theatre - he adored opera. He spent J W-wy WA-WA Z l o S w y S ó M a M a g k E i Fliharmonia ń e t z i i w e s o S a m - e p p r g POWIŚLE Z r Narodowa ł a i a a a i n z t Y rd a ic a o W a w Ż A WALKń THROUGHa CHOPIN’SM eWARSAWa S Ń On 2 November 1830, the young but accomplished art- some time almost every day in the cafes, where heated w k i l T ys k n o io e s rz en l l S l k A i a o sa e ś ka a ca k to S eg k c l K ws re a ię R ki Fo a bo z Pe Św B I zy n S rs r Gr Gó tunel IE s u a We begin our walk in the SaxonZ Garden (Ogród SK Park ka l ist left the capital of the Duchy of Warsaw, commonly discussions took place on art, fashion and politics. a M w A Zg oln LI ja a a o m O Ma a k S Ł t d S Z 3 r s ło a O o ń Z P R l. a o ŚRÓDMIEŚCIEK W E A F P g J.Porazińskiej P a . J s pl. O a L l la i s A e o Saski). The Tomb of the Unknown e Soldier isl nall i known as Congress Poland. In school and at university, during foreign language n e ta Rondo ONZ W a B t s t k o a o c mi y Pr sk e Defilad ż h ra li h C c s O ll Ś w r S k M i a a a k a K w r W ńs ł . o Pa a PKiN A Muz. o i n k w ś lessons and at his father’s boarding house, Fryderyk a that remainsn of the Saxon Palace 1 in which The change in the name of the state and international

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WARSZAWA w a j w K a a T a n k i one of the Chopins’ apartments was located. Not s y d s dependencies did not have a negative impact on War- got to know his contemporaries and made his first a t ŚRÓDMIEŚCIE Rondo y u g w ło Ś L Z M ą o R. Dmowskiego w C r an

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t n W ” far away, on Małachowskiego Street behind the i . saw. On the contrary: the city grew very rapidly at that friendships. He and his colleagues would stroll about a Książęca ak ul a nn o k e P A Si WARSZAWA w s

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w S i a Z T a M Z G s e r ln Krzyży Pru b a a e LI Roma . i A ólna . k r m O s r p B t l h Z a s o a C O Ł k W z R Office ia b w S A KrakowskieJE Przedmieście, where w we K find i the Science with an outstanding library, there were ele- first infatuation – he fell in love with Konstancja Gład- . a e o i a L ur O t s a ln A Center Ż g w a k j ie A a ie n W o l i k r m W c . h - l e . c ó C . o . S a s C Św ż i M g g g o U e a e a E K H r a o ni P S j ck Z kowska, a student at the Warsaw Conservatory. Church of the Sisters of the Visitation . Turning j Ś mentary and technical schools, and the Warsaw Ly- C . 3 s F a . A n Barbary k a Se B T P o k S H o z r Warsz. z a a O l a n M WARSZAWA A a r d n u k - d k a a a Ł t o zyń ą s s e ań s s l zk Opera p a y K o ś a U w n r d r M r

o s ó OCHOTA right,r we pass the Bolesław Prus bookshop 4 . k w ego u G T ceum in which Fryderyk’s father worked; culture and The locations of these events have been marked g s i B s

o i k a w Kameralna k o s ź I o IŃ t k K N a m S o i W e O S a k i K Nowo- ln ka ń N K ó a o i ląs IE A little farther alongsp the same sideoż of the street is the tejk noś s AZ social life blossomed. on the Chopin Route, which largely coincides with IE a r a Ł W H ó R k n grodzka M M G brycz G o a Fa a O J z k . b z C d ro L r g ă a the Royal Route. Important points in Chopin’s life in o Academy of Fine Arts (Akademia Sztuk Pięknych) e M The young pianist spent most of his time in Warsaw J w l na t o n i k i ię a y N zk n P c n z ś O e l a o d i cz s Park w il n ó - a c ze W ękn i Pr i a w Warsaw are located on the section from Sigismund’s in Czapski Palace , and across the street is the e in the area of Krakowskie Przedmieście and Miodowa Koszykowa 5 P u a Cypel c w ysło ina Ujazdowski k m Czernia- F. Chop a Ko kowski university campusA and Kazimierzowskiszykowa Palace . pl. Street. Here were the apartments the Chopins lived column to Three Crosses Square. Walking along this W 6 L N S . Konstytucji i o . a N e a k k I r s E z o Róż Łazien w l. UJAZDÓW kowsk b w A a While in the area,P it is worth visiting the park J in, the schools their children went to, and there were route, you can be sure that almost two centuries ago, o i s E c o O k W Rondo g k O i O i e w D e D e U i g g L L S.Sedlaczka G I

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Stara o h c w w R i to the Chopin Museum in Tamka Street 10. The From childhood, Fryderyk learned to play the piano un- Warsaw Tourist Information Centres: C g N n s Pomarańczarnia s r Kordegarda . k . Rondo k eja S a I R l J A ó z a i w r Obs. L e Staw o . A l i e K t l G J e OWE Jazdy Polskiej w ż e UD r D II L s o O lastAL. ApartRM of the walk is along Nowy Świat Street ka A Astronom. Łazienkowski Wielka Oficyna w der Wojciech Żywy, and he later studied composition Tourist Information: W

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P a Zo istop C Y , and on to ŁazienkiO Royal Gardens (Ogrody . Park ada Chopin received his general education first at the War- (Pałac Kultury i Nauki) 11 Ń E D Park im. marszałka S Pałac Myślewicki L 12 K a E k I s E Fiń G Łazienek Królewskich) where Belweder G pl. Unii Pałac saw Lyceum, and later at the University. (entrance off Emilii Plater Street) Ł 12 O J. Piłsudskiego O Lubel- Na Wodzie

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o lo Staw g O K w e a i Belwederski k B s P e Up to 1830 he performed regularly in Warsaw salons, • Frederic Chopin Airport, Terminal A, Gate 2 w U l w Nowa go o - Park im. marszałka re Ł o to W e g a A i w a ka a B KA d Pomarańczarnia l o k c n i W R c i fa O wa u N kitn J. Piłsudskiego te ś W e arko le o S n O r P S R S G s ie i s o K k (Pole Mokotowskie) a w A a

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B furniture stood an old piano. The teenage artist had a BRZEZINY BOOKSHOP WARSAW place, then, to study, practice, and work on his own “I go to Brzeziny daily,” – Chopin wrote Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw ADDRESSES OF THE CHOPINS compositions. to a friend. The Brzeziny bookshop at No. 8 That palace, which in Chopin’s time belonged to the Miodowa Street had the best selection of sheet Krasiński family, is now home to the Academy of Fine music in Warsaw. The latest publications were In the autumn of 1810, when Fryderyk was just a few Arts. brought in from abroad, and Polish scores months old, the Chopins moved from Żelazowa Wola to were published on site and sold (including Warsaw. They probably stayed at first in what was known two early works of Chopin). In the bookshop as the Jan Böhm house in Krakowskie Przedmieście HIGH SCHOOL AND STUDIES it was also possible to... play on a good (registry No. 411). The building no longer exists, while piano. in its place stands apartment house No. 7, home to the Bolesław Prus bookshop on the ground floor. Fryderyk Chopin was educated at home up to the age of As a teacher at the Warsaw Lyceum, Nicholas Chopin 13. In September 1823, he became a pupil of the War- The place where the monastery once stood, now was granted accommodation. This was situated, like saw Lyceum, immediately joining the fourth year (there above the East-West Route (Trasa W-Z), contains a Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw Fryderyk Chopin’s the school, in the Saxon Palace, most likely on the Warsaw University Pro-rector Building – Fryderyk were six grades at the school). The school was located square with a view of the Vistula and the right bank second floor of the right wing. This is another address Chopin lived here from 1817-1827 in the main building of Kazimierzowski Palace, while of Warsaw. of the Chopins in Krakowskie Przedmieście (registry just next door, in the annex, the Chopin family resided As a high school and university student, Fryderyk No. 413), and another building which has not survived. It was demolished by the Germans in 1944. All that re- in an apartment provided by the school. certainly visited the library of the Warsaw Society mains of the Saxon Palace is a fragment of the arcade, In 1826, Fryderyk began studying at the School of Mu- of Friends of Science. It was located in Staszic Pal- today the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. ace at the crossing of Nowy Świat and Krakowskie In March 1817, the Warsaw Lyceum was moved to Ka- Przedmieście. In the building at the corner of Kra- zimierzowski Palace on the grounds of the university kowskie Przedmieście and Oboźna streets, Cho- campus. Teachers at the Lyceum lived in the same pin and his colleagues went for English language building. The Chopins lived on the second floor of the lessons. annex, on the right when approaching from the main gate of the university. In 1827, after the death of Emilia, Fryderyk’s youngest sister, the Chopin family moved again to an apartment in Czapski Palace in Kra- kowskie Przedmieście (registry No. 410, now The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is the only No. 5). For the first time, Fryderyk had his own room. part remaining of the Saxon Palace arcade In a small room in the attic, alongside the necessary

The Czapski Palace, now home to the Academy of CHOPIN BENCHES Fine Arts For the 200th anniversary of the birth of Chopin’s connection to its location and a QR code Fryderyk Chopin, a walking route was created for downloading an application with an audioguide sic, which was part of the Faculty of Sciences and Fine connecting 15 places associated with the artist’s and the music of the great romantic composer. Arts at Royal Warsaw University. Lectures were held life in Warsaw. In each of these lo- in the buildings of the university campus, and practical cations, a ‘Chopin bench’ was in- lessons at the Conservatory, located in buildings of a stalled which plays a passage of former monastery standing between the Church of St. a Chopin composition when a but- Anne and the Royal Castle. The former cloister also ton on the bench is pressed. Each contained the apartment of Józef Elsner – dean of the bench also bears a description of School of Music and composition teacher – and the dormitory in which Konstancja Gładkowska, Chopin’s Today, Kazimierzowski Palace forms the central part of the campus of Warsaw University. first love, lived.

8 The Chopin Route 9 CHOPIN CONCERTS Warsaw Lyceum. In May 1825, he also played in the Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity in Małachowski Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw Square (Plac Małachowskiego).

CHOPIN AT CONCERTS In the theatre Fryderyk Chopin not only gave con- certs, but also attended those of other art- Fryderyk Chopin was keen on opera and the theatre, ists. He went to recitals by famous virtuosos and regularly attended the National Theatre, which in the Town Hall in Senatorska Street, the Roy- was then located in a building adjoining Krasiński al Castle, and the National Theatre. Palace (no longer existing). He usually sat in the au- dience, but sometimes appeared on stage. In 1830 The interior of the Honoratka restaurant, continuing he gave three public performances in the National the tradition of the cafe in which Chopin spent time Theatre, a symbolic farewell to Warsaw before his The Belvedere (no longer existing). In the salons departure from Poland.

Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw Fryderyk Chopin’s located on Krakowskie Przedmieście near Bed- building at the Zamoyskis and for Klementyna The artistic development of the young Chopin was narska Street. He also played at the invitation of Tańska Hoffman (entry off Żabia Street). The pi- greatly affected by the salon life of Warsaw. Almost the Grand Prince Konstanty, in his salon at the anist also gave recitals in Brühl Palace (no lon- WARSAW CAFES every aristocratic family (certainly the Czartoryskis, Belweder Palace on the grounds of Łazienki Roy- ger existing), Potocki Palace (now the Ministry There was a thriving social life in the Zamoyskis, Sapiehas, Radziwiłłóws, Czetwertyńskis al Gardens. At that time Łazienki Gardens were of Culture and National Heritage), Kossowski café society of 19th-century Warsaw. The big- and Wodzińskis) vied to have their salons be the ven- closed to the public, available only to residents and Palace, in Radziwiłłów Palace behind the Iron gest crowds, and the hottest debates on poli- ue for a recital by the child prodigy, and later the young guests of the Belweder. Over time, however, the Gate where the salon was conducted by Teresa tics and culture took place in the cafes along virtuoso genius. park became one of the most ‘Chopinesque’ plac- Kicka, and in the house of Friedrich Philipeus in Miodowa Street, where the young Fryderyk of- es in the capital, above all because of the famous Senatorska Street. ten looked in, to and from his trips to the Brzez- statue of the composer which has stood here since iny sheet music shop. As a teen, Chopin could 1926, and because of its highly popular summer In churches be found in the “Pod Kopciuszkiem”, the “Dz- piano recitals. iura”, the “Honoratka” and the modern Swiss The young composer played the organ in the Church confectioner’s “Lours”. He also often visited the of the Sisters of the Visitation in Krakowskie Przed- cafe “U Brzezińska” in Kozia Street. mieście during Sunday masses for students of the

The Presidential/Radziwiłłowski Palace The Church of the Sisters of the Visitation of The eight-year-old pianist’s debut on 24 February 1818 St Joseph Bridegroom of Mary the Immaculate at a charity concert in Radziwiłłowski Palace on Kra- Mother of God in Warsaw kowskie Przedmieście (now the Presidential Palace) brought Fryderyk Chopin immediate renown and notic- Other Warsaw salons were also concert halls for es in the Warsaw press. This led to further invitations. Chopin, including Morsztyn Palace in Miodowa The young musician performed in the building of Street, and the Blue Palace in Senatorska Łazienki Royal Gardens - Palace on the Water the Res Sacra Miser Warsaw Charitable Society Street, where Chopin performed in both the main

10 The Chopin Route 11 DAILY LIFE HOLY CROSS CHURCH IN WARSAW Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw

At the beginning of the 19th century, Holy Cross Miodowa and Krakowskie Przedmieście streets were Church (Kościół Świętego Krzyża) was the largest the hub of social life in 19th-century Warsaw. It was church in Warsaw. For two centuries, it has contained there that the young Chopin was most often seen, epitaphs and plaques commemorating distinguished since he lived in the area, studied there, and spent Poles, including Adam Mickiewicz, Juliusz Słowacki, time in its bookshops and cafes. He also met his Józef Ignacy Kraszewski, Bolesław Prus and General friends from high school, university, and his English Władysław Sikorski. This was the Chopins’ parish church when they lived Krakowskie Przedmieście Street in Krakowskie Przedmieście Street. Two of Chopin’s sisters were baptised at Holy Cross:

Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw Fryderyk Chopin’s Town (Nowe Miasto). He visited Joachim Lelewel Izabela and Emilia. And it is here that in Długa Street. It is also possible that he visited his an urn containing Chopin’s heart is friend Jan Matuszyński in Elektoralna Street (that part kept – brought to Poland by his el- of the street now belongs to Chłodna Street). The teen- der sister Ludwika in accordance Plaque commemorating Chopin age Chopin also visited Antoni Odyńca in Senatorska with the composer’s wish. in Holy Cross Church Street and Kajetan Koźmian in Bielańska Street. The The church also contains a meeting at which Fryderyk bade farewell to Warsaw plaque in honour of Chopin, Where your treasure is, there your heart took place in the apartment of Aleksander Reinschmidt funded by the Warsaw Music will be also, and above, a modest bust at No. 10 Dzielna Street. Society (Warszawskie To- of Chopin by Leonard Marconi. The Church of St. Anne in Krakowskie Przedmieś- Chopin went for walks with his best friend Tytus Woy- warzystwo Muzyczne) in 1880. During the Second World War, the cie Street ciechowski throughout the city, as he himself put it, that It bears a quotation from the church was seriously damaged, but is, from Plac Trzech Krzyży all the way up to Sigis- Gospel of Matthew: the urn containing Chopin’s heart and Italian lessons. In Chodkiewicz Palace he visited mund’s column. He also walked in the New and Old had previously been taken away the Wodzińskis, Rembielińskis, and Tytus Woyciech- Towns and in Marywilski Square (now Theatre Square and hidden in a safe place owski. He also went to the Pruszaks in (Plac Teatralny). Sometimes he went up to the Żoli- (see Milanówek). Marszałkowska Street and to Al- borz district to visit Leopold Poletyło in the Piarist fons Brandt and Ro- Fathers College, and to the Bielany district to muald Hube in the Camaldolese monastery and church. the New From Chopin’s correspondence with his family and friends, we know that he knew Browarna and Oboźna streets, where as a child he played there on the steep ice. All of young Fryderyk’s journey’s outside the city began at Wessel Palace at the corner of Trębac- ka and Krakowskie Przedmieś- cie streets, where there was a post office and stagecoach station. Today, the fine rococo building houses a prosecutor’s Wessel Palace in Warsaw office. Holy Cross Church

12 The Chopin Route 13 ŁAZIENKI ROYAL GARDENS FRYDERYK CHOPIN WITH THE CHOPIN MONUMENT INSTITUTE Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw The Institute, established in 2001 by the Polish parliament, coordinates academic research, Łazienki Royal Gardens date back to the 17th century, popularises knowledge about Fryderyk Cho- when the owner of the grounds, Stanisław Herakliusz pin and his music, and publishes books, Lubomirski, constructed two pavilions: The Hermitage recordings and multimedia. For more than and the richly decorated Baths pavilion. In the second half a decade, every year in August the Institute of the 18th century, Łazienki became the summer resi- has organised the prestigious Chopin and His dence of King Stanisław August. A number of buildings Europe International Festival in Warsaw, and Interior of the Chopin Museum date from this period, including the Old Orangery (Stara since 2010 the Fryderyk Chopin International Pomarańczarnia) the White House (Biały Domek), the Piano Competition, which dates back to 1927. for the interior design and the exhibition was the joint island amphitheatre, and the Myślewicki Palace. Łazienki is graced with colourful peacocks strutt It has also initiated concert series, symposia, work of Polish museologists, academics, art historians, In the 19th century, the Łazienki complex saw several ing majestically about the lanes of the park. academic conferences and master classes. artists, and Italian designers from the Milan studio of

Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw Fryderyk Chopin’s new pavilions erected in the neo-classical style. In 1817 Cooperating with other Chopin institutions and Migliore & Servetto. Łazienki became the property of Tzar Aleksander I, and Chopin in all of Poland. It stands above a pond near organisations around the world, it collects ar- The museum also features unusually valuable and the Belweder was occupied by his brother, Grand Duke the main entrance to the gardens off Ujazdowskie Bou- chives and museum artefacts, manages the original temporary exhibitions. It also functions as an Konstanty, who, after 1822, invited the young Chopin to levard (Aleje Ujazdowskie). It was unveiled in 1926, Chopin Museum in Warsaw, and the Birthplace extraordinary cultural centre, conducting educational perform in his salon. During the Second World War, the then destroyed by the Nazis in 1940, hence the inscrip- of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola. On the activities, and organising workshops, concerts and park was seriously damaged by a fire, yet it proved pos- tion on the pedestal: This statue of Fryderyk Chopin, website www.chopin.nifc.pl the Institute runs meetings with authors. sible to restore the historic buildings and create a garden demolished and plundered by the Germans on 31 May an Internet Chopin Information Centre. and museum complex open to the general public. 1940, is rebuilt by the Nation. 17-X-1946. Łazienki Royal Gardens are firmly associated with After World War II, in 1958, the monument was faith- www.chopin.museum Chopin because of the presence there of the Chopin fully reconstructed and restored to its original position. The Chopin Museum monument created by Wacław Szymanowski. It is The pedestal bears the words of Adam Mickiewicz: after a design by Tylman of Gameren, who was hired No. 1 Okólnik Street one of the most well-known and well-loved images Fire eats away at history’s leaves, by the owner at that time, Jan Gniński. Since then, of Fryderyk The sword puts treasure in the hands of thieves, the castle has been remodelled a number of times, its Song comes away unscathed... function changing along with its various owners. From 1959 till today, recitals of Chopin’s music have Historically, the location has no connection with been held next to the monument on Sundays. They Fryderyk Chopin or his family, but it was here are organised from the beginning of May to the end of in 1934 that the Fryderyk Chopin Institute began September, and enjoy enormous popularity. assembling what is today the collection of the Cho- pin Museum. The building, almost completely de- stroyed during the Second World War, was recon- THE FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM structed and, in 1954, became the headquarters of the Fryderyk Chopin Society, which it remained until 2005. It is now the site of the Museum, managed The main office of the museum is in Ostrogski Cas- by the Fryderyk Chopin Institute. tle rising above No. 1 Okólnik Street. At the end The Chopin Museum houses the world’s largest of the 16th century, the Krakowian castellan Ja- collection of Chopin memorabilia. It includes nusz Ostrogski commissioned the construction of personal items (from the composer, his family a small fortress here. The building was erected only and friends), manuscripts (of letters and works), in the second half of the 17th century, however, printed documents, pictorial collections includ- ing portraits and sculptures, and more. Since 2010 a multimedia exhibition has been on Chopin monument in Łazienki Royal Gardens The Chopin Museum display in the renovated interior. The concept

14 The Chopin Route 15 Park in Żelazowa Wola

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia

Fryderyk Chopin was born in Żelazowa Wola, a small village in TRAVELLER Mazovia, but Warsaw was the first place he remembered, since Fryderyk Chopin was not a typical his family moved there when he was only a few months old. He traveller of the Romantic era, but a per- was a child of the urban culture of his time, though he also fell son who was very mobile. He spent one under the spell of the Mazovian countryside and its folklore. He third of his life on the road, and the tempo had the opportunity to seek inspiration in idyllic landscapes and and intensity with which the famous artist folk music during the numerous trips he made outside the city. relocated was more suited to the age of From his earliest years, Fryderyk spent the summer vaca- the automobile than the locomotive. tion far from Warsaw. Firstly, his family heeded doctors’ rec- In his maturity, Chopin treated travel as ommendations to provide the sickly boy with a change of a necessary evil, an inseparable ele- climate when he wasn’t in school, and secondly, Fryderyk’s ment of the life of a concert musician. father considered even short journeys an important part of His vacation travels as a pupil and stu- education. dent, however, were a permanent ele- From the little information we have about Fryderyk’s first sum- ment of his education, a way of main- mer vacations, we can assume that these were short trips around taining social contacts, and a form of Mazovia and visits to the country homes of families who were recreation. Travelling a lot taught Cho- friends with the Chopins. Above all, though, the Chopins went to pin to organise his trips sensibly. From Żelazowa Wola. It is possible that, in the first years after moving his correspondence we know that he to Warsaw, Żelazowa Wola was like a second home to the family. preferred the newest and fastest means During such visits, Fryderyk must certainly also have visited So- of transport and made use of every ex- chaczew, and the church in Brochów, which the Chopins treated isting possibility – from stagecoaches to as their home parish. trains to ships to ferries. He was aware Fryderyk also got to know other parts of Mazovia during his sum- of the distances he was covering and mer travels. He would spend the summer in some of these places, patiently endured the hardships and in others he stayed for a short time during longer excursions to discomforts of the road. Mazovian open-air museum in Sierpc Szafarnia, Duszniki, Gdańsk, Berlin and Vienna.

16 The Chopin Route 17 2 MILANÓWEK has been a new, modern facility which contains an au- by gardens, fields, meadows and woods. In this pic- ditorium holding 580 people, rehearsal halls, a costume turesque setting, Fryderyk and Eustachy may have Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia shop and conference rooms, as well as a museum where spent at least several summer days. It is true that it Near the end of the Second World War (from 1944 to Mazowsze’s costumes, memorabilia and achievements used to be thought that the boys might have spent time 1945) the urn containing Chopin’s heart was stored in are on display. In the Matecznik Mazowsze European in Pęcice, but the latest research shows that in those Milanówek. After the composer’s death, his body was Centre (ECMM), cultural and educational activities are years the Marylski family mainly stayed on the property laid to rest in the Père-Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, conducted whose goal is to preserve the cultural heri- of Eustachy’s mother in Książenice. while, in accordance with his last wishes, Fryderyk’s tage of the region and the country, and to train cultural The manor in which Chopin probably stayed no longer heart was taken to Warsaw by his older sister Ludwika. leaders from around the world. exists. Nor do various memorabilia of the artist, includ- Otrębusy is also home to the Automotive and Technical ing Fryderyk’s letters to Eustachy Marylski, which were It was walled up in a column in Holy Cross Church. Bust of Fryderyk Chopin in Milanówek During the Warsaw Uprising, the Germans, sure that Museum, in which one can admire over 300 antique destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising. the church would be destroyed during the fighting cars and motorcycles. The oldest date from the begin- with the Polish insurgents, took the urn away from the THE ning of the 20th century, and the newest from the final church. General Erich von dem Bach-Zelewski handed CAPITAL years of Communist Poland. The collection is complet-

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s it over for safekeeping to Bishop Antoni Szlagowski, OF KRÓWKI ed by antique devices - from gramophones to military 3 ŁAZY – PASIKONIE – ZAWADY who was in charge of the Warsaw diocese during the Krówki, delicious artefacts to a London phone booth. Fryderyk Chopin Lime-tree Avenue Occupation. The bishop kept the composer’s heart in fudge sweets composed mainly of milk, are the his private chapel on the first floor of the parish rectory flagship product of the Poznań confectioner Fe- by the Church of St. Jadwiga in Milanówek. It returned liks Pomorski, and the pride of Milanówek. At the www.mazowsze.waw.pl Łazy is a village located along the old Royal Route, be- to Warsaw on 17 October 1945, on the 96th anniversa- beginning of the Second World War, Pomorski www.muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl tween Kampinos and Żelazowa Wola. Here there are ry of Chopin’s death. was evicted from his own factory by the Germans remains of an 18th-century manor house belonging to Those events are commemorated in a plaque on a and deported from Greater Poland. He ended the Bromirskis, and later the Karnkowskis. wall of the rectory, next to the entrance. The inscription up in Milanówek, where he set up a new candy A scenic road runs the 3 kilometres from the estate reads: In this rectory, the urn with the heart of Fryderyk factory. His grandson continues the family tradi- to the 19th-century Church of St. Dorothy in Zawady. Chopin was stored from 9 October 1944 to 17 October tion, producing Poland’s most famous krówki in Along that road grow more than 850 trees, mainly 1945. Just beside the church there is also a bust of the Milanówek. You can buy them in such places as small-leaved limes, of which almost 780 have been composer, which the residents of Milanówek funded in the Pacześny family sweet shop across the road designated as of historic value. 1998. It was sculpted by Janusz Tomasiński. from the Church of St. Jadwiga.

www.kampinos.pl

Automotive Museum in Otrębusy www.milanowek.pl www.milanowekswjadwiga.pl Parish of St. Jadwiga of Silesia, No. 41 Kościuszki Street the local area KSIĄŻENICE the local area OTRĘBUSY Folk culture and automobiles Young Fryderyk’s vacation travels are precisely doc- umented from 1824 thanks to his correspondence, though it is not certain if he spent time outside War- In 1948, in the village of Otrębusy near Warsaw, saw before then. It is likely that he was invited by the in the historic palace and park complex of Karolin, parents of his friend Eustachy Marylski to Książenice, the State Folk Song and Dance Group “Mazowsze” was not far from Grodzisk Mazowiecki. The Marylskis The church in Milanówek formed. Since 2009, the home of this legendary group had an estate there with a manor house surrounded Fryderyk Chopin Lime-tree Avenue

18 The Chopin Route 19 4 ŻELAZOWA WOLA Birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia

The history of Żelazowa Wola dates back to the second half of the 16th century. Notarial documents show that, in Chopin’s time, the estate contained a manor house, annex, orangery, stables and coach house. The man- or was typical of its time and region, a brick building, rectangular in plan, with a vestibule running through the centre of the building and ending with an entrance to the garden. On either side of the vestibule were servants’ quarters, a large dining room, a kitchen, and a pantry called the treasury. The second floor was a high attic with dormer windows. It mainly contained bedrooms. The manor in Żelazowa Wola is a venue for The estate belonged to the Skarbek countship, who summer concerts were friends of the Chopin family. The entire property comprised Żelazowa Wola, Orły and their dependen- of the 19th century. In 1891, a campaign to establish a cies. The two parts of the land were divided by the museum here was begun. In 1894, the tzarist authori- swift Utrata river. From 1801 the estate was managed ties consented to the erection of an obelisk in the park, personally by Count Ludwik Skarbek, who lived here which still stands today. But Żelazowa Wola gained the with his children, including his eldest son Fryderyk, who status of being of exceptional significance to Polish would become Fryderyk Chopin’s godfather. culture only in the 1920s, After Poland regained her It was probably here in Żelazowa Wola that the fu- independence. ture parents of Fryderyk Chopin first met: Justyna Thanks to the efforts of a number of societies and Krzyżanowska, who lived with the Skarbeks and enormous public support, a collection of artefacts helped run the house, and the French tutor Nicholas from the early 19th century was amassed. A grand Chopin. After their wedding, the Chopins lived in the piano from Chopin’s favourite manufacturer, Pleyel, left annex of the manor, and there, on 1 March 1810, Fryderyk Chopin was born. Chopin’s childhood was not really connected with Żelazowa Wola, however, Fifteen-year-old Fryderyk Chopin to his since in the autumn of the same year the Chopin family friend Jan Białobłocki, 24 December moved to Warsaw, where they stayed. Later, Chopin 1825: often visited the Skarbeks, mainly on holidays and Dear Jaś! You’ll never guess where this let- during the summer vacation. ter is coming from! You think from the other Fryderyk returned many times to the place of his birth. doors of the Kazimirowski Palace Pavilion?... He probably spent some time here in the summer of No. Or maybe from – don’t think in vain, it’s 1823, and we know he was here with his sister Lud- from Żelazowa Wola. – So one question an- wika for Christmas and the New Year 1825/26. The swered, but can you guess when I’m writing? last time he visited the Skarbek estate was in the sum- When?... Since you’ll never guess I’ll have to mer of 1830, together with his family. On such visits tell you, I’m writing having gotten out of the to Żelazowa Wola, a lot of time was spent in making carriage, in the villa. It was fate, and though music together, in the manor or with instruments taken Mother wasn’t very keen on my going, noth- out to the garden. ing could stop it and Ludwika and I are in The idea of converting the manor in Żelazowa Wola to Żelazowa Wola. Fryderyk Chopin monument in the park in Żelazowa Wola a place for commemorating Chopin arose at the end

20 The Chopin Route 21 was brought to Żelazowa Wola. The many donations ŻELAZOWA WOLA IN FIGURES spent time. To this end, it was decided not to have a to hear live concerts performed by both professional made also included seedlings of plants from many The Birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in large number of period artefacts. An important element interpreters of Chopin and talented adolescent pia- Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia countries sent especially to adorn the park, which it- Żelazowa Wola is visited each year by more of the exhibition is the audioguide. The recordings lead nists. On the same day you can also meet the authors self was beautifully designed by Professor Franciszek than 300,000 tourists. Members of royal fam- visitors through the park and the interiors of the Birth- of children’s books, listen to passages read aloud by Krzywda-Polkowski. ilies and government delegations come here place of Fryderyk Chopin. A visit begins in the Preludi- well-known actors, and take part in outdoor workshops During the Second World War, the museum and park during official visits to Poland. For artists, and um building with a film illustrating the characteristics and games to develop knowledge about the music and were completely destroyed. Only in 1949, the centen- especially musicians, it is a special, almost and history of the place, and its significance for nation- the life of Chopin. nial of Chopin’s birth, was a completely rebuilt exhibi- holy place. The guest books contains entries al memory and identity. tion inaugurated. by representatives of more than 200 countries Since 1954, Sunday piano recitals have been organ- Since 2005, the Fryderyk Chopin Institute has been around the world. ised in Żelazowa Wola. The concert season runs from responsible for the property in Żelazowa Wola. Af- May to September. These events are special expe- www.chopin.museum ter comprehensive renovation and investments, in In the first weekend in June, during the riences for pianists and the public alike. The recitals Birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin Monument the spring of 2010, to mark the 200th anniversa- grand picnic, Żelazowa Wola is ruled by take place in the annex, with the doors and windows and Park in Żelazowa Wola, ry of the birth of the composer, the Birthplace of children. Every year, to mark Children’s Day, open so that Chopin’s music can be heard by the audi- a branch of the Chopin Museum

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s Fryderyk Chopin was officially opened. Thousands several thousand young music lovers come ence gathered just outside. in Warsaw of new plants were planted in the park, the banks for a visit. For several years Żelazowa Wola has also hosted a Żelazowa Wola 15 of the Utrata were redesigned, with the Barcarolle series of events for children, including for Children’s tel. +48 46 863 33 00 summer stage, and the Preludium pavilion (with Day on the first weekend in June - an ideal opportunity a reception area, bookshop and back office for The current, modern exhibition goes beyond the tra- serving tourists), the Etude pavilion (with a cinema ditional concept of a museum. It is, in fact, a place and cafe), and the Scherzo orangery designed by in which to experience the atmosphere and space ŻELAZOWA WOLA – ESTATE OF THE Bolesław Stelmach. in which Fryderyk Chopin was born, and in which he SKARBEKS found herself in led to Justyna Krzyżanowska Countess Ludwika Skarbek née Fenger living in Żelazowa Wola to help the Countess (born in 1765 in Torun, died in 1827 in Warsaw) with her numerous obligations. Soon afterwards, came from the wealthy, noble family of a Protes- the French tutor Nicholas Chopin was hired on tant merchant and banker. Being well-educated a full-time basis. It was probably in Żelazowa and rich, she was an ideal candidate as a wife. Wola that the future parents of Fryderyk Chopin In 1791 she married a castellan from Inowrocław, first met. According to Piotr Mysłakowski, the Count Kacper Skarbek. Five children result- nature of the relationship between Ludwika and ed from the marriage (the eldest, Fryderyk – a the Chopins can be described as that between successful economist, historian, man of letters, employer and employee, but with a definite de- and considered by the Chopins as Fryderyk’s gree of household intimacy, the differences in godfather; Anna – wife of Stefan Wiesiołowski of social and material status being erased some- Strzyżewo, Fryderyk Chopin’s godmother; Anas- what. It is just this closeness in the relationship tazy Teodor, Michał, and Kazimierz, who died in that must have been the basis for assertions childhood). The marriage permitted the Count to that Justyna had family ties with the Skarbeks. get out of debt, but it did not change his spend- The Chopins remained in Żelazowa Wola until thrift ways. But for the strong character and the autumn of 1810, when they moved to War- abilities of Countess Ludwika and her decision saw in connection with Nicholas’ having been to divorce her husband, the Count would have hired at the Warsaw Lyceum. From that time, led his wife into financial ruin. In 1801, Kacper the two families maintained their friendly rela- Skarbek fled from creditors, and from that point tionship and visited each other numerous times, on the entire burden of managing the property both in Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola, which, in and raising the children rested on Countess Lud- 1818, was sold to the sons of Countess Skarbek wika’s shoulders. It may be that the situation she (first Fryderyk, later Michał). Birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola

22 The Chopin Route 23 5 BROCHÓW In the parish baptismal register, the date of 22 February 1810 is entered as Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia the birthdate of Fryderyk Chopin. For many The Church of St. Roch in Brochów was an important years this date was given in the literature on place for the Chopin family. On 28 June 1806, Nich- the composer and became considered to be olas Chopin and Tekla Justyna Krzyżanowska were correct. Yet Chopin and his family always gave married here. And in the same place, on 23 April 1 March as his real date of birth. 1810, Easter Monday, Fryderyk Franciszek Chopin The controversy around the composer’s birth- was baptised. The Chopins considered Fryderyk date is not limited just to the day of his birth. Skarbek their son’s godfather, though the baptis- Circumstances exist for also doubting the mal certificate shows one Franciszek Grembecki of month, and even the year, in which Chopin Cieplin, who may have acted per procura during the was born. ceremony. The godmother of Nicholas’ and Justyna’s only son was Anna Skarbek, later Wiesiołowska. The parish in Brochów also saw the marriage of Fry- rebuilding under Olbracht Adrian Lasocki was complet- deryk’s older sister Ludwika, who was wed to Józef ed in 1665. Built of red brick, the church is crowned Kalasanty Jędrzejewicz in 1832. The Chopins prob- with three cylindrical towers and surrounded by a wall ably visited the Church of St. Roch during every visit with bastions at the corners. Inside the church (now the to Żelazowa Wola. Church of St. Roch and St. John the Baptist), a plaque Set on the banks of the Bzura river, the church is reminds visitors of the history of the Chopins, as does one of only a few fortified basilicas in Poland. The the baptismal font, in use in the parish since the first first church in Brochów was erected probably be- half of the 19th century. fore 1113, during the reign of Władysław Herman. Approaching the main gate of the church, it is worth About 1350 the construction of a brick church was taking a look to the left at the statue of St. Roch, patron begun. The basilica obtained its current form after of the parish.

The Church of St. Roch and St. John the Baptist in Brochów Interior of the church in Brochów

24 The Chopin Route 25 The Church of St. Roch in Brochów according to Oskar Sosnowski I arranged that Michał would bring CHOPIN MONUMENT me to him. When that didn’t hap- In the park at the crossing of Warsza- Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia In both the First and Second World Wars, pen, though, Czaykowski... sent wska and Traugutta streets in Sochaczew the church in Brochów was seriously dam- aged and afterwards rebuilt. In the years an adjutant who brought me to stands a monument to Fryderyk Chopin. 2008-2009 it was thoroughly restored as part him.” In an improvised concert, On the stone base, a bronze plaque pays of the “Fryderyk Chopin 2010” programme. The wall paintings and vaults were restored. Most The presbyterium, with figures of the regimental orchestra played, tribute to the greatest Polish composer, and of the furbishings are modern, though the fig- saints dating from the 18th century on as did General Szembek himself, the obelisk standing next to it bears a relief ures of Dominican saints from the 18th century either side of the altar are original, as is the font, the wooden figure of of whom Chopin wrote: “he’s of the composer’s head in profile. The mon- Christ (saved from bombardment in 1914) and the subterranean tombs of the Lasocki family. very musical, plays well on the ument was designed and built by the well- The Chopins are commemorated in a plaque violin and is a die-hard Paganin- known sculptor Mirosław Biskupski. and a display case containing a copy of the composer’s baptismal certificate. ian, which puts him in a good caste of mu- sicians“. In was a piano on which Fryderyk performed his own the camp compositions, including the Adagio from the F minor

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s there Piano Concerto. At the end of the musical display, Cho- pin was just as quickly brought back to Warsaw. Fryderyk Chopin monument in Sochaczew A stronghold of the Mazovian Piasts already existed in Sochaczew in the 13th century, and the first brick cas- tle was erected in the 14th century. After the city came Chopin lived his life at a dizzying pace. under the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland in the 15th He could travel to Sochaczew, give a century, the castle was reconstructed numerous times. concert, have lunch, return home in Warsaw, The biggest changes, in the early baroque style, were and still make it to the National Theatre just in made in the 17th century by order of King Sigismund time to hear the first act of an opera. III Vasa. Today, only fragments of the walls survive, for The decorative paintings on the castle was destroyed many times, including during the vaults and walls were The figure of restored as part of the general Christ was saved the Swedish Deluge and the Kościuszko Insurrection. programme of renovation from destruction in 2010. during the First World War. The baptismal font at A plaque commemorates the which little Fryderyk baptism of Fryderyk Chopin, Chopin was baptised on and next to it another plaque 23 April 1810. www.brochow.pl commemorates the wedding of Chopin’s parents and his www.brochow-parafia.pl sister Ludwika.

6 SOCHACZEW a great music lover – General Piotr Szembek. At that time the soldiers were stationed in a former Domini- can monastery at the top of a hill near the ruins of the Sochaczew lies along the road from Warsaw to Silesia Castle of the Mazovian Dukes. Nothing came of their and the Ziemia Dobrzyńska region, which Chopin trav- playing together then, but shortly afterwards another elled through on numerous trips. It is also known that opportunity came up. Or rather, was manufactured: On Chopin visited Sochaczew when staying in Żelazowa 29 August 1830, Fryderyk was practically taken from Wola. his home in Warsaw by a special “fast carriage” with The most interesting story connecting Chopin with So- spare horses provided for him, and was whisked to chaczew occurred in the summer of 1830. The twenty- the military camp. “The other day I was again in the year-old composer came here with Michał Skarbek to camp of Gen. Szembek,” Fryderyk wrote in a letter. Remains of the castle in Sochaczew in a lithograph by Kazimierz Stronczyński, 1851 – the castle was the camp of the third infantry brigade at the invitation of You should know that he’s always in Sochaczew, and already in ruins by Chopin’s time

26 The Chopin Route 27 At the first stop, Wilcze Tułowskie, the guide takes all those interested for a half-hour walk in Kampi- the local area the Turk’s-cap lily, glossy buckthorn and guelder- INTERNATIONAL CHOPIN FESTIVAL nos Forest. Another attraction along the way is the IŁÓW rose, and with a bit of luck, to catch sight of one Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia IN MAZOVIA Puszczańska Settlement in Tułowice. Just next to of the black storks which nest here. An education- In Sochaczew, since 1993 a Chopin festival the old station is a lovely corner with a large, well- al path runs through the reserve for a length of 7 has been held which has become an interna- kept clearing where you can have a campfire picnic. Though from 1506-1863 Iłów had the status of a kilometres. tional event. Participants perform the works of You can buy everything you need for a pleasant stay city, today it is a village. Its urban past is evident Fryderyk Chopin and of Jan Sebastian Bach, at the spot. in its layout, with a square in the centre. In 1506, whose creative ideas found particular expres- the owners of Iłów, the Radzanowskis obtained a sion in the works of Poland’s greatest compos- Chopin delicacies privilege from King Aleksander to establish a city er. The performers are evaluated by a jury of under the laws of Chelmno and to hold four fairs distinguished music educators and pianists In Sochaczew you can have a unique experience yearly and one market weekly. Large markets are from Poland and abroad. – savouring dishes inspired by the culinary tastes of held in Iłów to this day, on the first Wednesday after the composer. In the Chopin Hotel the first and fifteenth of every month. restaurant, from May to Oc- The most important historical site in Iłów is

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s tober a special Chopin the late baroque parish Church of the Finding Since the beginning of the 19th century, no further at- menu is served which of the Holy Cross and Our Lady Queen of Po- tempts at reconstruction have been made, and so the combines tradition- land, funded by the Sochaczew castellan Adam view of the ruins on Castle Hill has changed little since al Polish cuisine Lasocki. The brick church was built in 1781 the time of Chopin’s visits to Sochaczew. with influences of in the form of a hall with a narrower, closed, In recent years the remains of the castle have been French cuisine. three-sided presbytery. Over the centuries, the Uroczysko Rzepki nature reserve revitalised and made available to visitors. The confectionery church has been damaged and rebuilt many times. Lukrecja offers a spe- The District of Iłów features the Uroczysko Rzep- Narrow-gauge Railway Museum cial product – “Chopin Ma- ki nature reserve. Its 43.94 hectares are covered zurek”, packaged as a charming with mixed pine and deciduous forest growth. The The Narrow-gauge Railway Museum is located on the souvenir of your stay in town. reserve protects beautiful old stands of pine mixed the local area grounds of the former Sochaczew Access Railway sta- MŁODZIESZYN tion. The exhibition rooms feature artefacts relating to the work of railwaymen. Outside there is an open-air railway museum in which you can admire more than www.sochaczew.pl The picturesque landscapes of the Vistula and the 140 steam engines, locomotives, wagons and other www.mkw.e-sochaczew.pl Bug surround the village of Młodzieszyn, not far from railway vehicles. It is one of the largest collections of www.naszzamek.pl Sochaczew. One of the most interesting places in its type in Europe. The collection contains such unique Młodzieszyn is its park, created in the 19th century items as: a wagon which resembles a car, made for over an area of almost 5 hectares. Today the park Marshall Józef Piłsudski, the salon car of General Woj- has fallen into neglect, and the manor house on its ciech Jaruzelski, a Warszawa car adapted for use on grounds is a ruin. Next to the parish Church of the rails, and a Koziołka Matołka (a children’s book char- Birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary is a belfry, open to acter) wagon. visitors, a relic of the old church from 1875. During the Occupation, the Germans murdered about thirty Through meadows and woods prisoners here. Baroque church in Iłów In nearby Kamion it is worth visiting the church, From April to October, an added attraction of the while historic manor and park complexes can also museum is the Saturday excursions in a retro train with hornbeam and oak, exceptional in the Vistu- be found in Ruszki and Witkowice. Both of these, (also on Wednesdays during vacation). The jour- la valley. Botanists have identified 14 species of however, are in private hands and not open to vis- ney starts with a guided tour of the museum. Vis- moss and 125 species of vascular plants in the itors. The manor in Witkowice has been carefully itors then board the train, which lets out a whistle Meringue cake with Russel coffee cream from the reserve. Tourists who visit Uroczysko Rzepki have restored and the grounds of the park put in order. Chopin menu and heads off through the city towards Kampinos. the opportunity to see such protected species as The manor in Ruszki is falling into ruin.

28 The Chopin Route 29 7 SANNIKI the 19th century, Tomasz Pruszak, a Gdańsk castellan, decided to replace the 17th-century wooden manor Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia house in Sanniki with a new brick building. Thus began The earliest references to Sanniki date from the Mid- the construction of a palace in the neo-classical style, dle Ages. The place name derives from the word for designed by Władysław Marconi with references to the sleigh, since the inhabitants of the village specialised Italian villas fashionable at the time. Though the palace in producing these. This small but quickly-growing vil- was later expanded and renovated numerous times, it lage lies in Gostynin County, about 85 kilometres from is the same building in which Fryderyk Chopin stayed, Warsaw. which makes it a particularly valuable building on the route of Mazovian relics associated with the composer. Fryderyk Chopin spent his vacation in Sanniki in From a letter of Fryderyk Chopin to 1828. He came at the invitation of a schoolmate, Kon- Tytus Woyciechowski, 9 September stanty Pruszak, whose father, Aleksander, owned the 1828: “Dearest Tytus! You won’t believe how stately property at that time. Fryderyk spent a won-

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s much I longed for news of you and your derful summer playing, resting, and going for walks mother; so you can imagine how content I and trips around the area. At the Pruszaks there was was to receive your letter. At the time I was a good instrument on which Fryderyk could play at in Sanniki at the Pruszaks. I spent the whole will and even work on his compositions - here he re- The interior of the palace summer there – I won’t write anything about worked the Rondo in C major for two pianos and also the fun, since you’ve been in Sanniki worked on the Trio. Though perhaps without great en- was taken over by the state, 18th- and 19th-century polychrome decorations. With yourself. thusiasm, he also gave piano lessons to Konstanty’s and was for years the head- its ambitious concert and educational programme sister Olesia. quarters of a state agricultural and its large number of exhibitions, the Centre has After the Pruszaks, the prop- farm. Numerous offices and the chance of becoming an important hub of Chopin erty in Sanniki belonged to the places of education were activities. Its prestige is augmented by the fact that it For centuries, the property in Sanniki be- Natansons, who continued the also located here. Only in is one of only a few original historical sites in Poland longed to Mazovian dukes, and later was roy- activities of their predecessors, 1981 was a return to the connected with the person of Fryderyk Chopin. al property leased out to the gentry. In the first running a sugar factory which tradition of Chopin begun. half of the 19th century, it became the private still stands behind the walls After many changes, a property of the Pruszak family from of the estate. After the Sec- thorough renovation of Pomerania. At the end of ond World War, the the palace and its sur- www.sanniki.pl, www.ecasanniki.pl property rounding park complet- Tourist Information Centre ed in 2013, the Fryderyk No. 142 Warszawska Street, tel. +48 24 268 11 08 Chopin European Centre for the Arts in Sanniki was established. The restored The Pruszaks in Sanniki palace now contains con- cert, museum, conference The Pruszaks, of the Leliwa coat of arms, came from and recreation sections and Pomerania, though at the beginning of the 19th cen- a marvellous new library. The tury they possessed numerous properties in Mazovia, interiors have been renovated including in Sanniki, Żychlin and Śleszyn, as well as with great attention to detail, a palace, a manor house and an apartment house in thanks to which one can admire Warsaw, in Marszałkowska Street (across from Rysia fragments of the original Street). Aleksander Pruszak (1777-1847) was regard- ed as one of the wealthiest landowners in Mazovia. He A Chopin monument from 1985 had three children with Marianna Skarzyńska: Tomasz, The palace in Sanniki designed by Ludwika Kraskowska-Nitschowa Konstanty and Aleksandra.

30 The Chopin Route 31 It is not known how the Pruszaks and the Chopins During his summer stay in Sanniki, 8 PŁOCK came to know each other, though it seems that they Chopin was accused of seducing the Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia became closer when Konstanty Pruszak attended Pruszak’s governess, who had become preg- the Warsaw Lyceum, while during the many times his nant. The matter was later explained, the accu- “...today in Płock I’ll turn the whole post office upside family went away he stayed in the boarding house of sation turning out to be untrue, and Fryderyk down to see if there’s anything for me,” Chopin wrote Nicholas Chopin, at that time a professor of the French became the godfather of the illegitimate child of to his family in Warsaw from Kowalewo on 6 July 1827. language. It is worth recalling that the acquaintance the governess. Płock is a large, picturesque city overlooking the Vistu- with the Pruszaks involved not only masculine friend- la, and historically one of the oldest and most import- ship. Ludwika Chopin also had many cordial contacts ant towns in Mazovia - during the Middle Ages it was with Olesia Pruszak, Konstanty’s younger sister. Ole- as well as during the summer he spent in Sanniki. We the capital of the duchy. sia was one of Fryderyk’s first pupils in his career as a also know that there is another thread involving Ole- At the beginning of 1827, Fryderyk Chopin left with sia, who Fryderyk considered an ideal match for his Count Zboiński on a trip to Gdańsk. Previously, the best friend, Tytus Woyciechowski. Nothing came of composer spent several days at the Count’s home in Tumskie Hill In 1925 a plaque was put up on the pal- the matchmaking, however. After finishing the War- Kowalewo, not far from Płock. He stayed there with

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s ace wall, with the inscription: Fryderyk saw Lyceum, Konstanty began studying law, and then the entire Zboiński family - the Count’s wife and three the Royal Chapel, in which in 1825 sarcophagi were Chopin stayed in this house in 1828. On the spent time in the army. He fought during the Novem- installed bearing the remains of two rulers of Poland: grounds of the park in Sanniki there are two ber Uprising, and was awarded a Virtuti Militari. From Władysław Herman and Bolesław Krzywousty. Chopin bronze statues of Chopin. The first, put up in 1836 on, he ran the property he inherited, including the was delighted by the panoramic view over the Vistula 1985, was made by Ludwika Kraskowska-Nit- sugar factory, and raised sheep. Despite his enormous escarpment. The travellers also visited the belfry, the schowa. The second, by Bartłomiej Kurzeja, wealth, over time he lost his fortune. former Benedictine monastery, the Dominican church, was unveiled in 2014. It depicts Chopin stand- In 1852 he died, and 6 years and perhaps the new Płock town hall built around that ing at the piano, with the Pruszaks’ governess later his son, Aleksand- time. They also went to the post office, where Fryderyk leaning on the instrument, gazing at him. er, was forced to sell off eagerly expected a letter from his family. the sugar factory to the Natanson family, who lat- Tumskie Hill er bought out the property piano tutor. From correspondence we in Sanniki. Tumskie Hill provides an ideal vantage point. It rises know that, somewhat reluctantly, Fry- over the Vistula valley, and from it you can admire the deryk gave Olesia lessons during panorama of the river and its other bank. Particularly visits to the Warsaw residence striking from the hill are sunsets and the bridge when of the Pruszaks, it is lit up.

Cathedral basilica of the Assumption of the Most Holy Virgin Mary

The cathedral basilica in Płock stands on Tumskie Doors of the cathedral basilica in Płock Hill, which rises above the Vistula valley. The church was consecrated in 1144. Though it has been re- daughters. The time passed in an idyllic atmosphere built numerous times over the centuries, it still re- as they prepared for their further travels. Ksawery tains original architectural elements. The narthex is Zboiński decided to take Fryderyk to visit Płock, per- divided from the main nave by a replica of the fa- sonally acting as his guide around the town. They mous bronze Doors of Płock, made for the cathedral certainly visited Płock’s oldest district and the medie- around 1154 in Magdeburg. The original doors from val walls of the castle with its two Gothic towers, the the 15th century adorn the orthodox church of St. Clock Tower and the Noblemen’s Tower. They also Sophia in Veliky Novgorod, Russia; it is not known Statue of Fryderyk and Governess, 2014 went to the Cathedral on Tumski Hill, and inside to how they got there.

32 The Chopin Route 33 Under the north tower of the basilica is the Royal Chap- el. Below lie the remains of Polish rulers – Władysław Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Herman and Bolesław Krzywousty, and fifteen Mazo- vian dukes. The walls are decorated with rich poly- chrome murals by Władysłąw Drapiewski.

The former Benedictine abbey and a fragment of the ducal castle

Opposite the cathedral basilica is a former Benedictine abbey and a fragment of the ducal castle with its Clock Tower and Noblemen’s Tower. It is now the home of the Vaults of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Diocesan Museum, with a treasury in which priceless Most Holy Virgin Mary objects are kept, including a herma of St. Sigismund from the 14th century, a chalice of Konrad Mazowiecki Adam Mickiewicz and Tadeusz Kościuszki, and rare prints from the 13th century, and Gothic monstrances. In the such as On the Revolution of the Spheres by Copernicus museum’s other building next to the basilica there is an from 1543. The library also contains Poland’s only collec- archaeological collection and a collection of more than tion of Goya’s eighty-print set, the Caprichos. 100 kontusz sashes. The Old Town Square (Stary Rynek) Narutowicza Square The market square in Płock is as busy as during the Mid- Narutowicza Square (Plac Narutowicza) (formerly the dle Ages, but otherwise a lot has changed. Here there Canon Market) is encompassed by many historical build- used to be inns, taverns and shops. In the middle stood ings. One of particular interest is the Dom pod Trąbami the Gothic town hall with its tower, and in front, a scaffold. (House Beneath the Trumpets) dating from the turn of the The apartment houses which surround the square today 14th and 15th centuries. It is a former canon’s residence were put up at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. and seminary with a coat of arms with a trumpet on the The New Town Hall (Nowy Ratusz) was built in the 1820s; peak of the building. Providence House (Dom pod Opat- it was restored together with its surroundings in 1998. rznością) now houses the Zieliński Library of the Płock Scientific Society, whose collection contains valuable writ- Parish church of St. Bartholomew ten artefacts, including a thousand-year-old manuscript in Latin of a text from the Book of Wisdom, manuscripts by The history of the Church of St. Bartholomew reaches back to 1356, although the original Gothic silhouette of the building is no longer apparent. In the 18th century, an en- trance facade in the baroque style was added on the side of the Old Town Square, and the interior of the church was adorned with an early baroque altar. Next to the church stands a belfry from the beginning of the 17th century.

www.turystykaplock.eu Tourist Information Centre at No. 8 Stary Rynek Street. Płock Cathedral Market square in Płock tel. +48 24 367 19 44

34 The Chopin Route 35 9 KOWALEWO Count Franciszek Ksawery Zboiński 10 SIERPC that Fryderyk Chopin wandered during his Mazovian was born in 1795 in Kozłowo. His fore- travels. Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia bears came from the Zboińskis of the Ogończyk Part of the museum exhibition is a manor complex “I wanted, sisters, to send you my little waltz, but I ha- coat of arms, from Zbójno and Ossówka. He Sierpc is not connected with Fryderyk Chopin’s trav- comprising a landscaped park and a reconstructed ven’t got time to write it down because we’re just leav- was the son of a royal chamberlain, Jan els through Mazovia. There are not accounts or doc- manor house with wonderful interiors, prepared with ing; now it’s eight in the morning (I never get up before Nepomucen Zboiński, and Joanna née uments attesting to the composer’s having spent any enormous attention to detail and historical accuracy. seven). The air is fresh, the sun shining beautifully, the Jeżewska, heir to property in Kozłowo in time here. However, this is the place for tourists to The whole is completed by an original 17th-century birds are warbling, there’s no stream or I’d hear it, but Pomerania. Kozłowo was a grand family prop- come to see for themselves what Mazovia looked like, chapel. there’s a pond and the frogs are singing splendidly,” erty in a secular county in Royal Prussia. Count and how its inhabitants lived, in the days when Chopin In the new exhibition halls, whose form refers to that of Fryderyk Chopin wrote from Kowalewo. Zboiński was also the owner of Kowalewo, left and created here. A visit to the Mazovian Village the farm buildings, there is a sculpture gallery with an Lubcza and Dziewanowo. On 4 November Museum in Sierpc is an authentic journey back in time, exhibition entitled Folk Sculpture from the Collection 1818 in Radzanów in Mława county, he married an encounter with native history and the ceremonies of of the Mazovian Village Museum in Sierpc, as well as Antonina Niemojewska of the Rol coat of arms, a Mazovian village. a carriage house in which you can see the exhibition and had three daughters by her who Chopin

Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s met when they were small girls, during his stay in Kowalewo. The closeness between the Zboińskis and the Chopins is attested to by the fact that in 1815 the Count was invited to become godfather to the Chopins’ youngest daughter, Emilia. In later years, Count Zboiński emigrated, returning only in 1839. In the 1840s he took an active part against Poland’s occupiers, for which he was sent to prison. He died in 1853 in Świecie.

to the Zboińskis up until 1843, when it was bought by Krystyna Fink. All that remains now are the ruins of Manor house in the open-air museum in Sierpc a manor house built before 1859 for Antoni Jabłoński, Handwritten letter by Fryderyk Chopin sent at that time the owner of Kowalewo. The manor was This open-air museum is situated where the Sierpieni- Manor Transport in the Collection of the Mazovian Vil- from Kowalewo to his family, 6 July 1827 probably put up in the same place as the estate Chopin ca and Skrwa rivers meet, and occupies more than 60 lage Museum in Sierpc. visited in 1827. hectares. The exhibition comprises ten peasant farms The Sierpc open-air museum is constantly being ex- The picturesque setting of the estate of Count Ksawery with thatch-roofed huts and farm buildings together panded, and soon a new type of village will be recon- Zboiński was a starting point for journeys to Pomera- with an inn, a post mill, a church, and a manor com- structed - a roadside village consisting of 38 buildings nia during the summer vacation in 1827. The young plex. The farms look very much as they would have including an inn, blacksmith’s forge, parish buildings Chopin spent only a few days in Kowalewo, but in an in their heyday. The furbishings of the huts and the and several farms. idyllic atmosphere and in the company of the Count’s equipment used on the farms indicate the differenc- Not only are the buildings important in the Sierpc muse- closest family - his wife and three young daughters. es in wealth of their owners. Beside well-to-do farms um, but also the area around them. Well-kept vegetable Chopin mentions one of the girls, Kamila, further on in are poor huts having only the bare essentials. What is gardens, flowers by the huts, beehives and animals all fill his letter: “But the funniest is the blackbird that makes more, the arrangement of the buildings is not acciden- the village with life. On summer weekends, a blacksmith a racket outside the window, and just after him is Mr tal. The spatial arrangement of a row village has been works at the forge, and a folk band plays out in front, while Zboiński’s youngest, Kamilka, who isn’t even yet two recreated - this was the most common layout among in the inn there is a place to get something to eat and a - she’s taken a liking to me and burbles, “Kagila like Polish farming settlements. Authenticity is added by little shop with souvenirs. The interiors of the buildings are mister cat”. It is not known how the estate in Kowalewo the fields which spread out from the village. One can done up in accordance with their function, and the huts looked in the first half of the 19th century. It belonged Lime-tree Avenue by the old manor in Kowalewo easily imagine that it was among just such villages are decorated in accordance with the season.

36 The Chopin Route 37 his sons Mikołaj and Piotr. It stands in the Old Town. The interior of the church features Gothic polychrome Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia decorations from the beginning of the 16th century, dis- covered only in 1958 during renovation work.

www.sierpc.pl www.mwmskansen.pl Mazovian Village Museum tel. +48 24 275 28 83

11 ROŚCISZEWO Room commemorating Fryderyk Chopin in Rościszewo Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia Fryderyk Chopin’s Village farm in the open-air museum in Sierpc to the Jeżewski family, to which Count Zboiński’s moth- survived. It was rebuilt several times in the 19th and “So today in Płock, tomorrow in Rościszewo, the er belonged. The travellers stayed in the late baroque 20th centuries. At the end of the 20th century it had Temporary exhibitions are also organised, and there day after in Kikół, a couple of days in Turzno, a manor house there, surrounded by a lovely park. The almost fallen into ruin, but in recent years the historical are contests and events relating to the cultivation of couple of days in Kozłowo, a moment in Gdańsk stately building was commissioned by the Jeżewskis, park complex and the manor have been revitalised. folk traditions. In the springtime you can take part in the and back again!” Fryderyk Chopin wrote on owners of the area since the end of the 18th century. You can walk through the park along its restored paths, old Slavic custom of celebrating the death of winter by 6 July 1827 in a letter addressed to his parents in During his stay in Rościszewo, Fryderyk went to the near- in the shade of old lime-trees and sycamores which preparing, burning and drowning an effigy of the god- Warsaw listing the further stages of his vacation travel by Church of St. Joseph’s Care. The parish dates from recall Chopin’s visit, or rest by the pond. The restored dess Marzanna. On Palm Sunday, in the church on the the 14th century, though the church the composer visited manor now houses the Rościszewo district offices, and grounds of the museum, a mass is held, and there is was built from 1779-1781 on the site of an earlier brick also contains a room dedicated to Chopin. In front of a competition to see who has made the most glorious church from the end of the 16th century. The church and the manor stand two life-size wooden figures depicting palm. Games are accompanied by folk music played the manor were funded by Benedykt J. Jeżewski, a gen- Chopin being greeted as he arrives at the manor. live by folklore groups. eral in the royal army. Many valuable elements from the In Sierpc itself, it is worth seeing the neo-classical town 17th and 18th centuries are preserved within it, including hall. The building is the property of the Mazovian Vil- the original baroque pulpit, while the current form of the www.rosciszewo.pl lage Museum. Inside, temporary exhibitions are organ- church is the result of reconstruction in the 1930s. District offices ised to promote local and regional culture, as well as The 18th-century single-story manor with two annexes No. 1 Armii Krajowej Street the cultures of other nations. There are also meetings – the former residence of the Jeżewski family - has tel. +48 24 276 40 76 for children and school groups relating to holiday and folk ceremonies. There are several historical churches in Sierpc. The oldest is the Gothic parish church of Ss. Wit, Mod- Scene of Fryderyk Chopin being greeted est and Crescentia. It dates back to the 14th or before the manor house in Rościszewie 15th centuries, while after rebuilding, its interiors are ba- roque, and the altar contains rococo elements. Within the plans. The youngster was accompanied on his journey walls of the church are remnants of a previous Roman- to Pomerania by Count Ksawery Zboiński. esque building which, according to local tradition, was Today it is hard to say for sure whether Chopin actually erected on the ruins of a pagan temple. Also of interest is reached the Baltic, but from his surviving correspon- the Gothic Church of the Holy Spirit from the end of the dence we do know where he stopped on the way. He 15th century. It was built of brick on a rectangular plan. certainly spent a few days in Rościszewo, the historical It has a single nave continuous with the presbytery, And nest of the Rościszewski family of the Junosz coat of Manor house in Rościszewo - current seat of district government was probably built by the mason Jan of Przasnysz and arms. In Chopin’s day the village and property belonged

38 The Chopin Route 39 O

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Wistka J Rokicie Str. n KOZIENICE Zdziebórz ez. Goślice Ciółkowo RogowoAcademic consultant: MarcinJoniec Wąsowski, Fryderyk Chopin Institute

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I I I I Wszeliwy I Dąbrowice I I I ZIELONKA Janówek 5 I I I I Młodzieszyn I I I Izabelin I Pacyna I I Laski I Strzelce Osmolin I I I Zamczysko I I I Nw. Miksztal I Ostrowy ZĄBKI Okuniew Michałów Skrzeszewy Giżyce Design, drafting and editing:Łazy EuroJulinek Pilot Sp. z o.o. Borzęcin Luszyn Zaborów Duży SULEJÓWEK Grochów Sójki Oporów Kiernozia Janów WARSZAWA ul.Kampinos Konarskiego 3, 01-355 Warszawa KROŚNIEWICE Żelazowa 3 Leszno Rybno 4 Wola Str. ŻYCHLIN Karsznice a Dębe KUTNO P r ta Rozlazłów 6 www.europilot.com.plUt OŻARÓW MAZ. Babice 1 HALINÓW Wlk. Zalesie r Dobrzelin z Paprotnia Boryszew Gnojno 1 Warsaw – city of Fryderyk’s youth y | p. 7 Ołtarzew s SOCHACZEW Wojszyce o Mastki Góraszka w PIASTÓW P Niepokalanów Bedlno a Str.Project partners:is MazoviaBoża BŁONIE Province Local Government, Mazovia Forum of BranchesW Wiązowna 2 Milanówek – where the urn with i Wola PRUSZKÓW Krzyżanów Płaskocin Dębsk a Michałowice i Daszyna Bąków ra Nw. Jeżówka s Strzegocin u Kaski of the Polish Tourist and Country Lovers’ Society, Zielonkowskieł Mazew Chopin’s heart was stored Dln. Goleńsko | p. 18 z Sucha Komorów Raszyn a JÓZEFÓW Witonia B Orłów Aleksandrów BRWINÓW Wola Zduny Czerwona- Local Government Forum, NadbużańskieOtrębusy Janki Heritage Foundation MILANÓWEK OTWOCK Ducka Ś 3 Aleja LipowaPęcławice – Fryderyk Chopin naturalSobota monument Maurzyce | p.ŁOWICZ 19 -Niwa Baranów PODKOWA Wolica Mysiadło w

i Romartów Ziąbki Guzów Chlebnia 2 LEŚNA Nadarzyn Lesznowola Opacz d KARCZEW e Siedlec Żelazowa Wola – the composer’s birthplace | p. 21 GRODZISK r 4 Partner: Fryderyk Chopin InstituteKsiążenice Łazy I I Nw. Celestynów I I Wiskitki MAZ. I Piątek Bielawy Nieborów KONSTANCIN- IMarynki I Gaj I I PIASECZNO I Jaktorów I I Bolimów Międzyborów I I I I I I I I R I I I I I I I I 5 Brochów – parish of the Chopins | p.Arkadia 25 a Siestrzeń -JEZIORNA Oszkowice Jamno w Mroków Lisiewice k ŻYRARDÓW Kuklówka- Pilawa Góra a -Zarzeczna Brześce Regut Wilczkowice ŁĘCZYCA Św. Małgorzaty Krzyszkowice Duże Zalesie 6 Sochaczew – town visited manyM times Nw. Grudze Bełchów Wola Grn. Baniocha r Żabia o Warsaw, 2015Bartniki FreeRadziejowice copy All rights reserved.Wola Mrokowska No part of this publication may be ga Bogatki Chodów Solca Bednary Słubica by the Giecznocomposer Domaniewice | p. 26Polesie GÓRA KALWARIA Dziecinów Wlk. Mokra Prawa reproduced without Kaleńthe publisher’sTARCZYN written consent.Łoś Osieck Mąkolice GŁOWNO Warszawice OZORKÓW7 SannikiModlna – vacations with the Pruszak family Łyszkowice| p. 30 MSZCZONÓW Czachówek Warszyce Lubianków Puszcza Czersk Parzęczew Pszczonów Maków Mariańska Jeżewice Rembertów 8 Słowik Płock – Tumskie Hill Koźle | p. 33 Prażmów Wola Natolin Kębliny SKIERNIEWICE Chudolipie Prażmowska Sobienie- M Dmosin Coniew -Jeziory os Konie Głuchów Emilia zc Lesznowola a 9 Kowalewo – formerze estate of Count Zbioński | p. 36 Wola Zawady Chynów r Dąbrówka ni STRYKÓW Godzianów Strobów Pękoszewska Drwalew Podgórzyce u ca Lipce There is also an application for mobile devices z Wlk. Dalików Grotniki Reymontowskie Nw. Kawęczyn Kowiesy Osuchów Wilczoruda Słomczyn Konary B 10 Sierpc –‑ Mazovian Village Museum | p. 37 Nowomłyny Kołacinek Ługi Grzymkowice GRÓJEC Dębnowola Mniszew Wilg a ZGIERZ Dąbrówka Byczki Rożce Wilga 11 Rościszewo – Fryderyk Chopin memorialDuża room | p. 38 ProjectStr. entitled “Tourist routes showcasing the cultural heritage of Mazovia”, co-funded by the European Union from Prawęcice ALEKSANDRÓW Nw. Łagiewniki Sierżnia Słupia Babsk Zalesie Pobierowice Piaseczno Skurcza the EuropeanRossocha Regional Development Fund, as part of the Regional Operational Programme of the Mazowieckie VoivodshipNw. for 2007-2013, ŁÓDZKI Borysław BIAŁA Rębowola Wieś a N Rogów Priority 6.2 Tourism Belsk Jasieniec Laski icRozniszew e Jeżów Krzeszyn RAWSKA il r Bełdów BRZEZINY Duży P WARKA Rąbień Lipiny Kaleń Wilków Łychów Magnuszew Zalesie Wola Drugi Łęczeszyce Zakrzew ŁÓDŹ Złota RAWA MAZ. Wólka Szwejki Chojnata Błędów Wola Wierzchy Głuchów Lesiewska Grzegorzewice Magnuszewska Huta Lutomiersk Pukinin Błędowska Broniszew Palczew Kwiatkowice KOLUSZKI Chrusty Grabów Michałów KONSTANTYNÓW Rylsk Sadkowice Goszczyn n. Pilicą Studzianki ŁÓDZKI Mł. Pancerne TABLE OF CONTENTS: Key dates 2 Fryderyk Chopin’s Family 4 Fryderyk Chopin’s Warsaw 7 Warsaw addresses of the Chopins 8 Secondary school and college _ 9 DOWNLOAD Chopin concerts 10 APPLICATION Daily life in Warsaw 12 CHOPIN ROUTE Holy Cross Church 13 The Royal Baths with the Chopin monument 14 The Chopin Museum 14 tourist guide Fryderyk Chopin’s Mazovia 17 www.dziedzictwomazowsza.pl Milanówek 18 Łazy – Pasikonie – Zawady 19 Żelazowa Wola 21 Brochów 25 Sochaczew 26 Sanniki 30 Płock 33 Kowalewo 36 Sierpc 37 Project entitled “Tourist routes showcasing the cultural heritage of Mazovia”, co-funded by the European Union from Rościszewo 38 the European Regional Development Fund, as part of the Regional Operational Programme of the Mazowieckie Voivodship for 2007-2013, Priority 6.2 Tourism