MORE CHANGES AT GAP/2 A WEEK OF BLOGGERS/22 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • February 9, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Gray’s Anatomy NEW YORK — Looks like Francisco Costa has been studying up on architecture this season. The Calvin Klein collection he sent out on Thursday was a minimalistic treat that was all about smart structure built around a palette of gray. Here, his chunky sweater and tight skirt. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 13. A Celebrity Black Hole: Fashion Crowd Cheers Star Drought at Shows By Jacob Bernstein f the biggest star at New York IFashion Week has been Donald Trump at Michael Kors, there is news for celebrities: You’re fired. After several seasons in which a slew of starlets and reality show contestants filled the front rows, there’s been a noticeable scaling back this time round. It’s not that you missed J.Lo and Reese and Nicole on your rounds: They just didn’t bother to show up. “I think it’s the first season I haven’t been run over by Beyoncé’s bodyguard,” said Cindi Leive, the editor in chief of Glamour. See Star, Page 4 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 WWD.COM Top Designer Exits Gap By David Moin Neuville joined Gap in October 2005 and over- WWDFRIDAY saw all aspects of product design and develop- Beauty THE OVERHAUL OF TOP MANAGEMENT ment for the brand’s adult men’s and women’s at Gap Inc. showed no signs of slowing down apparel and accessories. The Gap brand is an FASHION on Thursday, with the departure of Charlotte estimated $6 billion business. Neuville for nine It was all about structure at Calvin Klein, while Vera Wang continued her Neuville, head designer for years had been executive vice 6 artsy fantasy at the New York collections Thursday. Gap North America. president of design for New Charlotte In addition, Tom Wyatt, York & Co., where she led the Neuville president of GapBody, has design team’s creative direction GENERAL in 1999. taken on the additional role of for women’s apparel. Before EYE: After several seasons in which a slew of starlets and reality show president of Gap Inc. Outlet. that, she held senior design po- 1 contestants fi lled the front rows, there’s been a noticeable scaling back. The retailer said the search sitions at Cygne Designs, Jones Charlotte Neuville, head designer for Gap North America, has left the for a successor to Neuville, 54, New York Sport, Adrienne company, which is looking to reverse long-term sales declines. whose offi cial title was execu- Vittadini and Perry Ellis. In ad- 2 tive vice president of Gap adult dition, Neuville had her own BEAUTY: Emilio Pucci is moving into makeup for the fi rst time in May design and product develop- apparel collection. She is a na- 16 with a limited-edition color cosmetics collection created with Guerlain. ment, would target individuals tive of San Francisco, where London designer Matthew Williamson is introducing The Collection, a set of from outside the company. Gap Inc. is based, but worked The company did not spec- at the company’s New York de- 16 four fragrances with notes that can be detected in his two-year-old scent. ify the circumstances of Neu- sign center. Before David Beckham makes his U.S. debut with the L.A. Galaxy, the ville’s exit, and she could not Wyatt, 51, succeeds Diane 20 soccer star hopes to score with the launch of his Instinct scent. be reached for comment. Neal, who left the company in More management changes November. He will continue to Insulated by a luxury consumer base willing to dole out for pricy items, are expected after president Tom Wyatt report to Hansen. 23 department stores delivered a stellar sales performance in January. in 2003. and chief executive officer “Tom has led a number of A House panel began consideration of a bill that calls for a card-check Paul Pressler was pushed out well-respected companies with 24 system for union organizing, and retailers vowed to fi ght it. last month following a failed large brand portfolios during four-and-a-half-year effort his 30-year career in retail,” Jennifer Meyer is a doting parent of two babies: three-month-old Ruby to turn around the $16 bil- Hansen said in the statement. 25 and Jennifer Meyer Jewelry, which is launching its second collection. lion retailer, which has 3,100 “We’re confi dent that he’ll con- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 26-27 stores. Gap chairman Robert J. tinue to build on the founda- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Fisher, son of company found- tion for growth that he has es- er Donald Fisher, was named tablished with GapBody while [email protected], using the individual’s name. interim ceo and president. he works with the Outlet team WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT Gap is trying to reverse to identify opportunities to ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 32. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one declining sales trends, and drive their business forward.” additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three Neuville was a key player in the The company operates more additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by company’s unsuccessful effort than 300 outlets. Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive last fall and holiday to revive “I’m delighted to have the Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail the brand with intense marketing and emphasis opportunity to lead the Outlet organization,” Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return on Gap’s iconic categories, including denim, pants Wyatt said. “There is a terrifi c team in place undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA and T-shirts. and I’m looking forward to working with them 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Last week, Marka Hansen, president of the to unlock the potential in the Outlet business.” INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new chain’s Banana Republic unit, was named pres- Wyatt joined Gap a year ago from Cutter subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production ident of Gap North America, replacing Cynthia & Buck Inc., where he was president and ceo. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Harriss. Like Pressler, who hired her, Harriss Previously, he had been chairman and ceo of Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list had been a Walt Disney Co. executive. Parisian, led Warnaco Intimate Apparel and available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. “On behalf of everyone at Gap brand, I want spent more than 20 years with Vanity Fair, If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, to thank Charlotte for all her efforts,” Hansen where he was president of the brand’s Intimates OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, said in a statement. Collection. BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Shareholders Nix Sale of Eddie Bauer Quote of the Week NEW YORK — Eddie Bauer Holding Inc. said an throughout November, when the company fi rst insuffi cient number of shares was voted in favor announced its deal with the two private equity of the proposed sale of the company at $9.25 per buyers. Shares have lost ground over the last “I’m not discontented with the current share in cash to Eddie B Holding Corp, which is few months due to a decline in third-quarter owned by affi liates of Sun Capital Partners Inc. profi ts and the disclosure of tax accounting er- schedule. In general, though, there and Golden Gate Capital. rors, which in turn pushed back the shareholder A special shareholders meeting on the meeting on a vote on the proposed sale. Bauer are too many collections and too many planned sale was held Thursday. hired Goldman Sachs in May to explore a sale Eddie Bauer said in a statement, “As a result of the company. The $9.25 per share cash offer brands for the market to support.’’ of this vote by stockholders, Eddie Bauer will represented just a 5.2 percent premium over — Jean Paul Gaultier continue to operate as a standalone publicly the stock’s closing price on Thursday. traded entity. The Eddie Bauer board of direc- A fi nancial source said institutional inves- tors will be evaluating appropriate next steps tors were against the sale. for the company.” Bauer sells its product through 390 stores Shares of Bauer closed at $8.79 Thursday, across the U.S. and Canada, as well as catalogue down 4.3 percent in over-the-counter trading. and Web site operations. In Brief The stock was trading between $8.65 and $9.20 — Vicki M. Young ● CHICO’S CFO STEPPING DOWN: Chico’s FAS said Charles Kleman would be leaving his posts as executive vice president, chief financial officer and treasurer. Kleman, who has been cfo for 18 years, plans to continue to work at Chico’s in investor relations PVH Signs Licensing Deal With Timberland and financial modeling, and will chair Chico’s Charities Inc. hillips-Van Heusen Corp. has signed a li- start-up costs this year associated with design. ● LIZ TACKLES DATING ABUSE: Liz Claiborne Inc., with the Pcensing deal with The Timberland Co. to Including these start-up expenses, PVH proj- National Domestic Violence Hotline, launched The National Teen manufacture and market Timberland women’s ects its 2007 earnings per share will range from Dating Abuse Helpline (866-331-9474) and its companion Web site, and men’s casual sportswear in North America. $2.97 to $3.05, excluding the January acquisi- loveisrespect.org, on Thursday. “We’ve done a lot of research to After assuming management of the men’s ap- tion of Superba, which it expects to be mod- show that teen dating abuse is an important and critical issue,” parel line in fall 2008, PVH will launch a wom- estly accretive. said Jane Randel, director of the company’s cause marketing en’s Timberland line in fall 2009. PVH is a $1.7 billion apparel and neckwear program to prevent violence against women. Nineteen percent of Timberland brand apparel generated about vendor. The company-owned brands include teens 13 to 18 who are involved in relationships have been threat- $70 million in sales last year in North America. Calvin Klein, Van Heusen, Izod, Arrow, Bass ened by their partner, according to Teenage Research Unlimited. The companies estimate that the men’s line and G.H. Bass & Co., and PVH holds licenses will be available in some 600 department store for numerous brands including Geoffrey Beene, doors in fall 2008, in addition to specialty stores Kenneth Cole New York, Kenneth Cole Reaction, Correction and Timberland’s own full-price and outlet re- BCBG Max Azria, Michael Michael Kors, Sean The name of the private label brand that Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. tail stores. John, Chaps, Tommy Hilfi ger and Perry Ellis. is developing for J.C. Penney is called American Living. The brand PVH expects to incur about $5 million in — Whitney Beckett name was incorrect in a story that ran on page 5, Thursday. FOR THE FIRST TIME, ABSOLU REPLENISHMENT AND VOLUPTUOUS TRUE COLOR.

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Continued from page one “So the celebrities could be thinking, ‘Why should I go through that?’ while the The lack of star wattage at the shows this season is partially the designers think, ‘Why should I disrupt my show?’” result of the freezing-cold temperatures that have socialites, editors, “If you’re even remotely famous, you wind up like a captive animal at a petting buyers and celebrities alike bundled up like bubble people. zoo,” concurred Janice Min, the editor in chief of Us Weekly. “It’s really hard to show off your tootsies when it’s 10 degrees out,” This might not bother Britney Spears, who showed up at Baby Phat Friday night. noted Ingrid Sischy, the editor in chief of Interview. But by and large, the biggest boldface sightings this week — Rachel Weisz and And there was the scheduling of the Super Bowl during fashion week — “In Claire Danes at Narciso Rodriguez, Ellen Barkin and Susan Sarandon at Diane Miami, no less, which is warm,” publicist Paul Wilmot pointed out — not to mention von Furstenberg — have been people who have time-tested friendships with the a slew of promotional events in Los Angeles related to the Oscars, which were designers whose shows they were attending. Consequently, the reaction was more moved up this year from March to late subdued. As Rodriguez said to WWD on February. Tuesday night at his show’s after party: “I But it’s almost always cold in February know [Weisz and Danes] are celebrities, but in New York, and the Super Bowl was held they’re my real friends.” at the same time last year. So while those Of course, the crush of attention at the explanations may have some validity, other European shows isn’t much better — but it’s observers cited the lack of celebrities as much more exotic to be in Milan or Paris than proof fashion week has been organized Sixth Avenue. After all, when Katie Holmes poorly, that it lacks suffi cient glamour — and wanted to hit the fashion shows, she went that, at some shows, the tacky factor is way overseas. too high. (One veteran publicist complained “There’s defi nitely still a place for of the “souk atmosphere” in the tents with celebrities in fashion, but I’m not sure it’s in aggressive Mercedes salesmen, a cocktail bar the front row,” said fashion consultant Robert Burke. “The last few seasons, it just seemed like overexposure, the celebrities became a bit I think it’s the fi rst season of a distraction and it made the fashion houses “ seem less serious about their collections.” I haven’t been run over by Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue, agreed: “There were a lot of B-level celebrities Beyoncé’s bodyguard. and it backfi red a bit on the designers.” ” Like Leive, she was happy to see things — Cindi Leive, Glamour calm down: “Isn’t it wonderful? You can actually get to your seat.” in the back and AstroTurf on the fl oor.) And of course, there’s always an up-and- It’s as if the pendulum has swung and Kim coming celebrity looking for press, and when the industry is self-correcting after several Cattrall they do show up, no one seems to refuse seasons in which a phalanx of reality-show at the them entry. winners and underemployed actors rushed Donald Trump with Carolina Witness Camilla Belle, this season’s most the tents, thereby turning an appearance at Sarah Ferguson at the Herrera ubiquitous front-row face: She’s 20 years old the shows into a fairly reliable indication Michael Kors show. show. and her most recent release was a horror that one had too much time on one’s hands. movie remake called “When a Stranger Just as soon as the photographers at the Marc Jacobs show in September could Calls,” in which she played a babysitter trapped in a house with a psycho-killer. be heard screaming, “Hey Winona, over here,” others could be heard asking, “Hey? Didn’t see it? Neither did we. But in an age where becoming a socialite takes What’s she done lately?” little more than the ability to fi t into a designer sample, this was accomplishment Ditto for Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher, both of whom also showed up at that enough to land her a recent cover of Teen Vogue, a Vera Wang fragrance campaign show — though Kutcher was “working,” covering the shows for Harper’s Bazaar. and a spot as a celebrity runway model in a benefi t show Feb. 2 supporting the fi ght As Jessica Paster, who dresses Jessica Simpson and Jennifer Hudson, said, “The against heart disease. After that, Belle remained in New York, where it became celebrities who go to the shows season after season go because they don’t work.” virtually impossible to miss her and her equally omnipresent mother, Deborah. Moreover, when big names in the prime of their careers did grace the There they were at Phillip Lim…and MaxAzria…and Peter Som…and Carlos fashion world with their presences — take Renée Zellweger’s appearance at Miele…and Derek Lam…and Oscar de la Renta. Carolina Herrera two years ago, for example — the response from reporters and At Wang’s show on Thursday, Belle said her only reason for being there was that photographers was so frenzied that it became an unbearable circus, one that could “I love fashion.” not really be justifi ed, given that the clothes are available for viewing the following And some people are only too happy to buy into the celebrity hype. Just morning on Style.com. moments before the show started, a woman jumped into the seat next to Belle and “The paparazzi have become so aggressive that a star can’t walk four steps to her said hello: “Hi, I’m Lucy Danziger, the editor in chief of Self magazine. And I just seat without cameras going off,” complained Rachel Zoe, Hollywood’s best-known wanted to introduce myself to ask if you would consider being in our magazine at celebrity stylist, who was here in New York this week, sans clients. some point?”

Camilla Belle at Phillip Lim… ...at Oscar de …at Vera Wang… …at Peter Som… la Renta...... and at Carlos Miele. The Ubiquitrix The PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY “ ... ONE OF THE MOST INTOXICATING POP CULTURAL ARTIFACTS OF OUR AGE.” 6 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007

ArtVera Wang and ArchitVera Wang e

Vera Wang Vera Wang WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

ectureThursday offered a study in contrasts as Vera Wang presented an artsy collection fi lled with Bolshevik embellishments, while Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein opted for smart structure and chic austerity.

Vera Wang: Move over, Mussolini. Yours isn’t the only revolution to inspire a designer this fall. The Bolsheviks are also getting their moment du mode, courtesy of Vera Wang. The designer spun an elaborate reverie inspired by early 20th-century Russia and its various charismatic camps — her rally of revolutionaries and kerchiefed peasants broken up by some Swarovski-ed gals more of the Romanov persuasion. (What? You thought the high-low thing was invented yesterday?) The theme allowed Wang to wax ever- romantic while working the artistic mood that has become her ready-to-wear signature. And it resulted in some absolutely breathtaking clothes, even if too often they had to battle through the presentation’s lack of subtlety — all the headgear, piles and fl ying appendages — for attention. In the end, it was worth the fi ght. At a time when other designers are scaling back on the romance, embellishment and any trace of exotica, Wang embraced all of the above. She started with structure, last season’s dancer’s fl ou replaced by sturdier fare — a proletarian cutaway shearling over short pants, stiff lantern skirts, rugged boots touched with jewels. There were A-line dresses in stiff taffetas, tunics over short skirts and lots of take-to- NEW the-streets layerings, often punctuated with a dark-hued coat and major knit action in a YORK heavy bonnet, scarf or kerchief. Once or twice fall Wang even stepped back from ’07 all the stuff, sending out a pair Calvin Calvin Klein of gorgeously sober dresses with jeweled Klein medallions on one shoulder. Evening was a less proletarian affair. Then, try as they might, Wang’s melancholy bejeweled waifs couldn’t hide their true tsarist inclinations under even the most overt babushkas. So let the revolution come; win or lose, these girls will look dazzling in defeat.

Calvin Klein: At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa offered a manifesto of a different sort: a smart, cool treatise on architectural minimalism. The collection he showed on Thursday was light years away from last season’s miscalculation, a fresh, sexy show worthy of the house moniker. Costa’s clothes displayed no evidence of soundbite-worthy inspiration, although he said that the curvy dresses owed a debt to Elizabeth Taylor in “Butterfi eld 8.” Perhaps so, but without a smidgen of retro. Rather, he worked from a sharp modernist ethos that focused fi rmly on cut and fabric — both of which were shown off to maximum effect in an austere, almost all-gray palette. Costa examined, and often contrasted, two proportions. His loose, structural outerwear bore interesting elements of construction, for example, a sturdy wool coat with a notch collar that became a deep vertical fold in back, or the raglan-sleeved wool and silk jacket over a drawstring hem skirt. Conversely, his skirts and dresses, some of which fell from padded shoulders for a controlled Space Age effect, were superskinny, so much so that one or two were tough for the models to negotiate in their mile-high sexpot shoes. More often, however, the girls looked like power babes of the most confi dent sort — sleek and ever in control. Costa softened the mood just barely with a pair of gray lace dresses and with knitwear that riffed on Aran classics, the cables now reengineered for a dose of attitude — just the kind

of attitude that chic minimalism requires. CENTENO THOMAS IANNACCONE AND TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 Dark and Lovely Badgley Mischka What’s in the fall wardrobe? Plenty that’s moody and serious, with a high-gloss edge.

J.Mendel

Badgley NEW Mischka YORK Badgley fall’07 Mischka

Badgley Mischka: Mark Badgley and James Mischka are the go-to guys for high glam gloss, glamorous gowns, this time inspired by their recent visit to India along, they evening gowns. But this season, it was the chic and sporty little day looks that had claimed, with images of “Old Hollywood, Mia Farrow and futurism.” Whatever the the wow factor. For the first time, the designers decided to show all their collections references, the stars of the lineup were short dresses in silk under a fl oaty layer of together to give their customers a lifestyle approach to fashion. That meant a heavy tulle, and strapless velvets edged in lamé. Otherwise, they overloaded on a tiring dose of sportswear (even jeans for the first time), along with their eveningwear, furs amount of shimmer — hematite, platinum paillettes, even Lurex jeans. But for more and their spectacular new costume jewelry. discreet types there were plenty of those beautiful, if familiar, fl oaty chiffons and Consider skinny — and we mean skinny — jeans with a knockout sable jacket satins. edged in ruffl ed satin. Or a leather offi cer’s jacket over a georgette skirt. Or the season’s ubiquitous anorak in blonde shearling paired with Hepburn trousers. In J.Mendel: When Gilles Mendel fi rst forayed into ready-to-wear, some argued his addition, more dressed-up day looks such as chic tweedy suits and simple sheaths furs subsequently suffered. Since then, he’s hit high notes in both categories, but also looked terrifi c. in somewhat of an either-or affair. Not this season, where both niches were chock- At night, naturally, the designers gave their fans an ample dose of those high- full of beautiful clothes, including furs, gowns and some sportier numbers. Almost WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 9 WWD.COM

J.Mendel Anna Sui

Anna Sui

Diesel PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY everything — save for a few clunkers — was elegant and nothing was short on detail. For instance, a quilted broadtail coat with a fox AT KATE SPADE’S hood, a gray wool and silk faille dress with a silver fox underlay or presentation Thursday any of the beautiful gowns punched up with accordion pleats, silver morning, the freezing lamé or nutria trim. All of it was done with a nod toward Old SNOW AND ICE fashion set was greeted Hollywood glamour, but considering Mendel’s front row — Cynthia at the door with piping Nixon, Mary-Louise Parker, Natasha Richardson and Celine Dion hot chocolate — a — the designer obviously has new Hollywood on the brain. welcome start to another bone-chilling day. On Anna Sui: Surprise, surprise. Anna Sui, mistress of optimistic that note, it seemed no free-for-alls, has a moody side. While it wasn’t a totally sober coincidence that Spade’s affair, the show’s start — mostly black with punches of purple handbag collection was — was certainly darker territory for her. Still, the party dresses inspired by a Sixties and piles of layered knits were classic Sui, and halfway through, snow bunny. Some she couldn’t resist going wild and colorful again. “I was into numbers resembled a interiors, obviously,” she said backstage of her initial inspiration. puffy parka, done in And by “obviously,” she meant the black sweater with the big plush orange, yellow, settee intarsia and the silk tent dresses printed with all sorts of navy or silver nylon, household items like irons, forks, clocks and armoires — all things while others channeled she said she wants to collect. There were hints of stately Victorian a peacoat with looks in parlors in the layers of the aforementioned dark jacquards, while smart wool trimmed in the gold tassels of an orange-and-gold floral dress looked like Movado leather. “It has an easy, they’d been nicked from curtains in a Seventies-era lounge. But chic of-the-moment pick apart the busy medley, and these pieces translate into street Kate feeling with a pop of unexpected,” said Spade, who also showed clothes that reside on the kooky side of cute. Spade other styles in metallics, animal prints, sequins and patent exotic skins. As for the shoe lineup, looks were more cohesive this Diesel: Denim might be the everyman’s fabric, but Diesel sure season, featuring chic takes on square- and peep-toe shapes. loves its fl ash. This season, creative director Wilbert Das served Further uptown, Movado held its annual Valentine- up ample amounts of both — often at the same time. Working with making-cum-jewelry-viewing party. The fi rm’s latest a “Blade Runner”-meets-police-offi cer vibe, he reprised spring’s collection features everything from simple everyday pieces skinny, corset-waist silhouette and laminated it for a high-gloss adorned with its patented heart shape to red-carpet-ready fi nish in bronze, silver or copper. Though not without a kitsch diamond-encrusted necklaces, rings and multistrand factor, what could have easily taken a tacky turn for the worse bracelets. Its new Commitment group, meanwhile, is — as many of Das’ tricks have in the past — the results were perfect for lovers: a necklace, ring or earrings featuring futuristically cool. That same shine was applied to surprisingly two interlocking circles — one in rose gold, the other subdued pinafores and full-skirted shirtdresses, while, elsewhere, in pink sapphires. “The Commitment collection is about an oversized headdress print was a standout on a tunic dress and love,” said team designer Norie Takano. “The commitment blouses — looks that will likely bode well for Diesel’s billion- of two people and how they coexist.” dollar bottom line. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007

Designers went from the A to Z of fashion, traveling from the land of sporty chic to that of architectural and sleek — with a rough- Alphabet Soup and-tough pit stop in between.

Y-3 G-Star NEW YORK fall’07

Vivienne Tam

Y-3: Hey, Yohji, thanks for the popcorn and the flown in from the Netherlands — glided down the of pared-down dresses and separates with geometric seltzer quencher. And the show venue had us giddy conveyor belt-runway in a meticulously choreographed cutout motifs, as well as a few pretty high- or drop- with anticipation: Hunter College’s basketball court, display of rough-and-tough denim, sprinkled with waisted frocks accented with pleats. It was nice to see done up Y-3 style in black and orange, framed by equally rugged black leather bombers and pants. Tam exploring new territory, but it wasn’t enough to a raised runway. By the time the rip-roaring light- “Basics are boring,” Morisset said backstage. Indeed, offset her predictable lineup of cheongsams, Buddha show opener began, we were ready, treats in hand, to the 97 looks were exaggerated and raw, like the crisp prints and sparkle galore. be delightfully entertained. So you can understand skinny jeans paired with a flouncy, pleated double- our disappointment when the fi rst look out was a breasted jacket, or a fitted blazer that appeared as if it Lyn Devon: Why fuss over flourish and flash when bleak caped number, followed by moody knits and were turned inside out with exposed seams and rigid clean, architectural details can prove just as straightforward sporty fare. Which isn’t to say that, touches. The real showstoppers, however, were the intriguing? Lyn Devon’s clothes lent themselves to a come fall, your girl won’t reach for those long zip-up terrific A-line swing dresses and trenches, some with lovely graphic geometry, both in color-blocking detail cardigans, baggy track pants and comfy boyfriend braided leather details, that will likely give American as well as the gentle arched curves of, for example, a sweaters. And there’s no doubt the cropped leather denim-lovers another reason to go shopping. blouse paired with a high-waisted suspender skirt. The motorcycle jackets will ring up the registers. But after discreet silk insert in a wool jersey dress made all the all the terrifi c Y-3 collections you’ve done, can you Vivienne Tam: Vivienne Tam has always marched to stylish difference, as did a square panel of tulle on the blame us for wanting a bit more? the beat of her own Eastern drum, and this season she neckline of a silk column gown. Devon let the lines of a arrived by way of France and indulged in the Poiret garment do the talking, whether in top-stitches running G-Star: Talk about rolling into town. For G-Star’s first fever currently gripping the fashion masses. Tam down the leg of a trouser or in a striped silk panel Stateside showing, Pierre Morisset’s 26 models — all showed some restraint with her Paris-inspired group gown. Even her geometric appliqués were controlled WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 11 WWD.COM

Lyn Devon more from the shows ...

Malo Phi VPL by Victoria Bartlett

Antonio Berardi

and precise. But her clothes read more fresh than austere — perfect for those city-chic and sleek girls.

Isabella Tonchi: Showing for the first time in New York, Milan-based Isabella Tonchi offered a good mix of then and now. Giving a nod to the classic, Mal Neil Eighties luncheon looks (which are Sirrah Barrett popping up everywhere this week), she presented some chic little miniskirt suits and coats with dirndls, as well as a few timeless sleek knit sheaths and sturdy cashmere cardigans. It all worked to charming effect. But what on earth were those fur Mickey Mouse ears doing on mannequins, and why was that bewildering topless performance held simultaneously in the next room?

Isabella Tonchi

Twelfth Street by Michon Schur Cynthia Vincent Jenni Kayne

Malo: 6267’s Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi charted a Neil Barrett: Aside from some chic tailored coats and covetable whole new urban-cool turf for Malo — this girl is dark, fi erce and in bomber jackets, Neil Barrett’s mostly uninspired collection — in a love with textures, from allover geometric spangles to fabulous fur predominantly black-and-white palette — offered little in the way of combos and rugged Rastafarian loops. fresh ideas.

Phi: Andreas Melbostad pulled references from Mick Rock Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent: Whether you’re a smarty-pants or the photographs and industrial design into one striking Phi collection, carefree sort, Cynthia Vincent’s got you covered with her delicious showing futuristic dark quilted jackets layered over leggings and jeweled or toggled knits, body-conscious dresses and wide-leg sheer tunics. trousers.

VPL by Victoria Bartlett: Victoria Bartlett’s cool girls live in Suffragette Mal Sirrah: Mal Sirrah’s Malcolm Harris channeled the Thirties and City, walking around in dark layers that droop and gather where they Forties, showing a pretty array of delicate cocktail dresses, many of should and worn with tough, military-style jackets. them with pleats and folds.

Antonio Berardi: Antonio Berardi sent out a refreshing lineup of Michon Schur: It’s clear that Michon Schur’s Stephanie Schur knows wearable street clothes — a biker jacket paired with skinny trousers, how to make pretty, feminine clothes, like the watercolor-printed for instance — fi t for the downtown girl. blouses and swingy cashmere coats, but we’re still waiting for her wow factor to kick in. Jenni Kayne: Los Angeles denizen Jenni Kayne had cool city girls in mind (like the Olsen twins, sitting in the front row) with a polished Rachel Comey: Sweet and innocent with a little edge defi nes Rachel collection of cropped jackets and silk dresses with striking patent Comey’s fresh dresses and separates in silk, wool and alpaca knits

accents. — sure to make their way into the closets of fall’s contemporary girls. MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA ANTONOV, PASHA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, FRIDAY FEBRUARY 9, 2007 Fashion Scoops

ANNA NICOLE’S LIFE: Anna Nicole although select Privé pieces have been shown by private appointment in the designer’s Beverly Anna Nicole Smith, who collapsed and died in Hills VIP showroom. Smith was Florida on Thursday at age 39, had The event will take place the night before the Oscars, on Feb. 24, a date reserved for other a Guess girl plenty of ups and downs in her roller- ultraprivate A-list fetes, such as The Entertainment Industry Foundation/Variety’s Night Before in the early coaster life: from Playboy centerfold bash. Armani, who will attend the Oscars with his niece Roberta, said Burkle’s estate “will provide Nineties. to widow of an octogenarian a wonderful setting for what I hope will be a memorable occasion.” No doubt Burkle does too: billionaire to overweight reality TV The mogul has been trying for the past several years to create his own signature Oscar weekend star — but she rose to fame as the party to compete with the likes of Vanity Fair, and he may have hit upon a magical partnership. Guess girl, appearing in TV, print and Armani plans to arrive in L.A. on Feb. 22, following his signature line show in Milan on Feb. 19, billboard ads, beginning in 1992. and his Emporio collection show on Feb. 21. And though his party will share calendar space with Paul Marciano, chief executive other events, it no doubt will be star-studded, as tout Hollywood has perfected the art of party- offi cer and creative director of hopping in their cars. Guess, said Thursday he discovered Smith in San Antonio with her son, BLONDE AMBITION: Diane Kruger, a red-carpet favorite, will be bringing her eclectic chic to the Daniel, in 1992. “She was working Cannes Film Festival in May. The German actress and sometime Chanel model will be master at a restaurant at the time, and we of ceremonies, welcoming president Stephen Frears and his jury onto the stage of the Palais des asked her to come to L.A,” said Festivals and host closing ceremonies on May 27. Recent emcees have included Monica Belluci, Marciano. He recalled he was in Laura Morante and Cécile De France. San Antonio doing a kids’ shoot, and a friend of his, who worked at LITTLE AND LARGE: The folks behind the seating assignments at Badgley Mischka on Thursday must Playboy, suggested that he meet her. have had an eleventh-hour sense of humor as they placed the tallest and most Lilliputian of their Marciano had the photographer do star wattage — Aisha Tyler and Rachel Bilson, respectively — next to each other in the front row. a test shoot right away. “She was The former was at her fourth show this week, having already seen Catherine Malandrino, stunning. She had an incredible Michon Schur and 12th Street by Cynthia Vincent. But this was her fi rst time taking in Badgley face, she was very tall, a big girl. We Mischka and while the actress is a fan of their dresses, she admitted she wasn’t exactly a asked her to come a week later to do frequent paying client. a photo shoot,” he said. “I wear them,” she said with a sly smile. “It’s not like you can exactly put one on for a two Smith moved to Los Angeles and they did four or fi ve successful Guess campaigns. “The o’clock appointment.” reaction we got when she made personal appearances in Hong Kong, Tokyo and Singapore was Tyler will be adding director to her CV when she begins shooting her debut project, as of yet of something I’d never seen before. Thousands of people showed up. It made front page headlines,” untitled, this summer. said Marciano. Meanwhile, Badgley Mischka marked Bilson’s fi rst show appearance of the season. “I’m going He said he was responsible for giving Anna Nicole her name. At the time, she was known as to Zac [Posen] tonight, but I’m not sure about the party. I have to fl y out tomorrow because my Vickie Smith. “I did not like Vickie Smith. I introduced her to Monique Pillard [president of Elite] step-mom’s having a baby,” she explained. The fashion-lover was following show-going protocol, and we all had dinner. I asked her [Smith] if it was OK if I changed her name and she said, ‘yes,’” being decked out in the designers’ duds. But she couldn’t abandon her favorite label even for said Marciano. And why did he choose Anna Nicole? “It sounded like what she looked like,” said 20 minutes. The leather clutch? “Chanel, of course,” she shrugged. Marciano. “She was very easy to work with, very gentle and fl exible. It’s very sad today. The loss of her son, the biggest love of her life was Daniel, and I think she could not survive that,” said Marciano. FEAST OR FAMINE: Just as body image lies in the eye BARRY’S RETURN: A familiar face appeared in the front row at Calvin Klein Collection on of the beholder, so does the Thursday. Barry Schwartz, once the chairman of the company and longtime former business ultraskinny model debate. partner of the founding designer, came to his fi rst post-Calvin Calvin show and he worked the While photographers and front row and greeted some of his old industry friends. Schwartz is known to be a close friend handlers have commented and confi dante of women’s creative director Francisco Costa. “Francisco has asked me to come so on models eating backstage, many times,” he said. “I ran out of excuses.” a few models said the setup isn’t all that different from VERSACE RIDES RODEO: A composed Donatella Versace took to the sparkling clean sidewalks of past seasons. Rodeo Drive Wednesday to accept two Walk of Style plaques for her and her late brother Gianni After walking in the from the city of Beverly Hills and the Rodeo Drive Committee. The dedication ceremony took Badgley Mischka show, place on the corner of the winding cobblestone stretch known as Via Rodeo, where the newly Milagros Schmoll said most renovated Versace boutique now dominates. of the girls had croissants or “Thank you from the bottom of my heart,” she said some breakfast earlier, but “I in her brief acceptance speech, which she had written Donatella just eat toast in the morning on an index card. Versace pal Rupert Everett was on Versace and I am fi ne.” A preshow feast. hand to lend his support, having just fl own in from and Rupert Schmoll also said she does Miami. “Of course, I said ‘yes,’ when she asked me,” Everett not know her weight since she prefers not to weigh herself. he said, adding that he was surprised by the cool temps The Council of Fashion Designers of America-led effort to entice models with more in California. “But I have a Versace jacket.” Donatella, nutritious snacks is misguided, she said. “It’s not about how much food is out. If someone on the other hand, was prepared for the chill: She is anorexic, it’s not about the client or the work, it’s what in your mind.” Schmoll said. designed a brown tweed pantsuit just for the occasion, Testimony to that are the trays of cupcakes, cookies and brownies that have sat relatively perfect among the black suit crowd at the ceremony. untouched by models at shows like Proenza Schouler. “I did see a model eating one of For the cocktail reception in the boutique, where she those tiny cupcakes the other day,” one backstage photographer said. “But they shouldn’t chatted with fellow Italians and other fl amboyant fans, be eating that stuff. No one should. It’s not good for you.” she doffed the demure jacket to reveal a corset top with Lindsay Ellingson, a DNA model, said this season she has been more inclined to grab a lattice detail above her decolletage. quick bite backstage. “With everything that has been in the media, I feel like we are allowed to take a few minutes. The designers seem to understand,” she said. “Normally, we run WHAT A LIBERTINE: Those who are still clamoring for around so much that we don’t have time to eat.” Proenza Schouler pieces for Target’s Go International Ellingson said she noticed that J. Mendel had the best breakfast this season — “eggs, initiative, or waiting for Patrick Robinson’s guest gig to fruit and yogurt — stuff that really fi lls you up.” launch this summer, can put another hot label on its Strawberries, cantaloupe, orange and apple slices are said to be the pre-show snacks of Target wish list. Word is the mass retailer has signed choice. Some models keep their carb counts down by opting only for the meat in slivers of on Libertine for its next Go line this fall. The bicoastal sandwiches. Crudites, no surprise, are also a favorite fi nger food. label was started by Cindy Greene and Johnson Hartig But it’s all relative, according to one backstage security guard, who declined to be in 2001. The duo made a name for themselves with named, “They pick, but they’re not eating. A lot of them smoke — to suppress their signature silk-screened women’s and men’s wear appetites, I guess.” and their designs have since been spotted on the And when the Champagne is fl owing, they imbibe. “But they usually grab one on the way likes of Giambattista Valli, Brad Pitt and Mick Jagger. out — not during.” he said. Hartig, sitting in the front row at Michon Schur on Some models, like DNA model Morgane Dubled, would rather hold off for a real meal or Wednesday, declined comment. buy something to eat backstage. “It’s OK. Anyway, it’s backstage food,” she said. “I would rather get something else to eat. It’s basically sandwiches — nothing crazy.” GIORGIO LOVES L.A.: After 15 years, Giorgio Armani Before walking in The Heart Truth fashion show last week, Billie Jean King noted that 78 plans to attend the Academy Awards once again percent of girls 17 or younger don’t like their bodies and designers could help offset that and, to mark the event, to show his Privé couture fi gure by using models of all shapes and sizes. “I think a lot of models are sick and are collection in Los Angeles for the fi rst time. The show not in good health. And to always be promoting that look is wrong. Who do you think is to and cocktail will be held at the legendary Green blame?” Acres Estate in Beverly Hills, owned by billionaire Another Heart Truth model, Alek Wek, described the health awareness and concern about supermarket magnate Ron Burkle. “This is the fi rst models as “great.” Obviously, designers show clothes to sell clothes, but “it’s not just about time Mr. Armani has held any kind of fashion show looking good. It’s about feeling good too,” she said.

during Oscar week,” said a company spokesman, STEVE EICHNER ERICKSEN; PROENZA SCHOULER BY SARDELLA; KYLE FOOD BY DONATO VERSACE BY WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 13 WWD.COM

OSCAR DOES MACY’S: Oscar de la Renta’s runway show at Macy’s Herald Oscar de FRIENDS IN LOW PLACES: Square Wednesday night for his better-priced O Oscar line, which the la Renta Proenza Schouler invited department store launched exclusively for spring, was clearly a new speaking their family of fans to The experience for the designer. “Macy’s is a name that is known all over at Macy’s Beatrice Inn Wednesday the world,” de la Renta told the crowd. “I would not do anything I O Oscar night to celebrate their fall would not be proud of — these clothes look absolutely great. Today you fashion show — that is, if their can buy wonderful, wonderful products at almost any price range.” The show. friends weren’t too tall for difference in the price tag on the clothes — which ring in at a fraction the club’s low ceilings. of de la Renta’s normal fare — was small compared with the crowd. Robert Burke and Tim Excited Macy’s customers who’d bought O Oscar pieces when the Schifter didn’t have any clothes hit the fl oor two weeks ago made up the front row, alongside problem (both praising Kellwood head Robert C. Skinner Jr. Editors had to peek over their heads Jack McCollough and Helen Schifter from the second (and last row). Standing room, from behind racks of Lazaro Hernandez’s with Jack clothes, was reserved for Macy’s shoppers who stumbled on a treat. “best collection McCollough. yet”), and neither did CELINE’S CROWD-PLEASER: Some celebrities have no qualms about Thakoon Panichgul. turning a fashion show into a photo op, even if they’ve never met the designer. That was not the case “I’ve never been so when Celine Dion caught Thursday’s J. Mendel show. The musician said she has worn Gilles Mendel’s glad to be short,” designs for six or seven years, and she wears his chiffon dresses every night in her show “A New he said, blowing Day...” at Caesars Palace. “He has a very unusual sense of design, especially the way he works with off steam after his chiffon. I like the sexiness of his dresses. They are quite pretty and very unusual. And I like how they show. Barbara Bush catch the [stage] light just so.” and Mary-Kate Olsen No word yet if Mendel will be her go-to-guy for this month’s Oscars. Dion will salute Italian milled about with ease, composer Ennio Morricone with a remake of his song, “I Knew I Loved You.” She didn’t sing a but Alexandra Kerry and note Thursday, but heartily applauded Mendel — well after Natasha Richardson, Cynthia Nixon and Jeff Halmos, formerly of the rest of the crowd had stopped clapping. Trovata, were skimming the just-above-six-foot MOORE DESIGN: Before heading for her appearance in “The Vertical Hour” on Broadway Thursday, ceiling. As for the Julianne Moore buzzed by the Ralph Pucci Gallery to see her handiwork for Lutz +Patmos on designers themselves, display. Tina Lutz and Marcia Patmos recruited the actress to be their fall guest designer and they held court near she whipped up a lightweight cardigan inspired by her favorite old sweater. It even has what the bar, receiving other looks like a sewn tear on the right shoulder — just like Moore’s tried-and-true one. “I love how guests such as Victoria Lazaro lightweight it is and how narrow the sleeves are.” and Vanessa Traina, Max Hernandez with Moore especially liked that her four-and-a-half-year-old daughter, Liv, accompanied Snow, Amy Greenspan and Arden Wohl. her to Lutz + Patmos for design meetings. But not enough to pursue any more Barbara Wilhelm. fashion-related alliances. “I’ll leave design to the professionals. Tina and Marcia are Kerry is on a break from such lovely people and are so gifted.” she said. “And there’s nothing here I wouldn’t working on her fi rst feature wear.” Lutz + Patmos is returning the favor by donating $30 of the purchase of fi lm, an adaptation of the aptly titled “The Hazards of Good each $475 sweater to the Tuberous Sclerosis Alliance, a charity Moore selected. Breeding,” she revealed. Like Bush, she is a New Yorker now. Glancing around the gallery at the designers’ knitwear displayed on Hernandez said he and McCollough are soon jetting off. “We Ralph Pucci’s mannequins, Moore said, “And this is so much better than a are going to Paris and then L.A. for the Oscars,” he said. “We fashion show.” went last year quietly but this year we are going to be a little louder,” though he refused to say if the two are dressing anyone Amy for the red carpet. For reviews, Fashion Scoops and news Greenspon throughout the day, visit fashiononsite.wwd.com

14 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 The Beauty Report

Diane von Furstenberg: Hair by Frédéric Fekkai; Makeup by Mathew Nigara for DVF Beauty

Peter Som: Hair by Guido Palau for Redken; Makeup by Gucci Westman for Lancôme

Carolina Herrera: Badgley Mischka: Hair by Orlando Hair by Teddy Pita for Orlo Charles; Makeup Salon; Makeup by by Tom Pecheux Diane Kendal for for MAC MAC Cosmetics Cosmetics

Derek Lam: Hair by Orlando Pita; Makeup by Tom Pecheux Knot Today Nice buns abound every season — but this time around, they have a modern twist. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 15

WWD.COM

Vivienne Tam: Matthew Williamson: Hair by Dennis Lanni Hair by Jimmy Paul for Bumble and for Bumble and bumble; Makeup by bumble; Makeup by Vincent Longo Charlotte Tilbury for MAC Cosmetics PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY

Monique Lhuillier: Oscar de la Proenza Hair by Kevin Ryan Renta: Schouler: for Aveda; Makeup Hair by Orlando Hair by by Aaron De Mey Pita for T3; Orlando Pita; for MAC Cosmetics Makeup by Pat Makeup McGrath for by Gucci Max Factor Westman for Lancôme

SMOKE GETS IN YOUR EYES: Smoky eye with blacks and browns: traditional. Smoky eye with purples, grays and golds? Not so much. How makeup artists redefi ned the trend for fall 2007.

Behnaz Sarafpour: Hair by Ashley Javier; Makeup by Gucci Westman for Lancôme

Michael Kors: Hair by Orlando Pita for Tibi: Hair by Orlo Salon; Dennis Lanni Makeup by for Bumble Dick Page and bumble; Tuleh: Hair by Jimmy Paul for MAC Makeup by for Bumble and bumble; Makeup by Cosmetics Ayako for Nars Polly Osmond for MAC Cosmetics 16 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Guerlain, Pucci Unite for One-Shot Collection

By Ellen Groves crease both brands’ visibility and to attract people beyond Pucci and Guerlain’s traditional customer base. PARIS — The Emilio Pucci fashion house is venturing into makeup for the fi rst “It could attract a younger clientele. It’s so different, it could attract just about time, in May. Its fi ve-unit, limited-edition color cosmetics collection was created everybody,” said Guerlain’s Semerari. with Guerlain. While there will be no traditional advertising for the collection, a shot of model Both houses are owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Julia Stegner’s face covered with a colorful wave reminiscent of the Pucci scarf and “The partnership was almost obvious,” said Renato Semerari, president and featuring Guerlain’s logo will be displayed at points of sale. chief executive offi cer of Guerlain, of the Guerlain by Emilio Pucci makeup proj- “We tried a scarf on the head, Audrey Hepburn style, but it was too classic. This ect. He added, “Pucci has an important heritage, including refi nement, luxury and is more fashionable and modern,” explained Echaudemaison. attention to detail.” When Pucci suggested body painting for the visual, Pucci executives felt the partnership was a dream team. Echaudemaison declared it was “too Seventies.” The fi nal “In every woman’s mind, I think, Guerlain represents image recalls pop art and body painting since Stegner is a dream brand,” said Laudomia Pucci, the Italian fashion Guerlain by featured with the colors enveloping her face and shoul- house’s image director and daughter of its founder, Emilio Emilio Pucci ders. Pucci. makeup items. Evidently, there was lots of give and take in the cre- She quipped, “It’s funny we never did cosmetics before, ation of the new makeup collection. Pucci said that when but I guess we’ve had other things to do.” Echaudemaison suggested hot-pink colored blush, she per- Cosmetics product development was inspired by a fuchsia, suaded him to compromise, and they came up with a paler turquoise, pink, mauve and apricot scarf Pucci created spe- pink. cifi cally for the project. Its print appears inside the products’ “It was a healthy partnership,” she said. outer packaging and also on some fabric cases containing the With a view to making the line a must-have collector’s makeup. item and to create buzz, company executives said they de- Billed as the line’s star product is an Eye Set in a zip-up cided Guerlain for Emilio Pucci would be a one-shot proj- case that can be reused. It contains a “kohl & eyeliner” mas- ect. Semerari added it was not easy to unite two brands cara, plus a four-color eye shadow palette. The Eye Set costs in the long term, as each has its own strong identity and 68 euros, or $88.40 at current exchange rates, in France and strategy. $75 in the U.S. “We didn’t want to force a marriage [but] rather share a Also in the collection are Guerlain’s signature Meteorites passionate moment,” he said, but did no rule out possible pressed-powder beads that come in the scarf ’s colors; so, too, future collaborations with other brands. do its outer packaging and the fabric case holding the brush While executives declined to discuss sales targets, in- applicator. A 33-g. Meteorites container is to sell for 42 euros, or $54.60, in France dustry sources estimated the collection would generate between $13 million and and $50 in the U.S. The brush will retail for 28 euros, or $36.40, in France and $35 $20 million at retail worldwide during its four-month run. in the U.S. The line will make its debut in Guerlain’s 500 points of sale worldwide in May. In Guerlain for Emilio Pucci’s 5.1-g. blush mousse goes for 32 euros, or $41.60, in the U.S., the collection will be available in 80 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, France and $39 in the U.S. The 5-ml. lip glosses come in four shades, each of which Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. “This collection was produced in limited is to sell for 23 euros, or $29.90, in France and $26 in the U.S. Two glosses combine quantities to make it the ‘It color collection’ of the summer season,” said Pamela three colors recalling the Pucci scarf ’s swirls. Baxter, president and ceo of LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, North America. “The “It’s a short lineup and a short retail run,” said Olivier Echaudemaison, collaboration is important for Guerlain as it links us with an admired and contem- Guerlain’s creative director, who explained Guerlain by Emilio Pucci would be porary fashion brand, which brings us more brand awareness.” available only from May until August. The one-shot collection was designed to in- — With contributions from Julie Naughton, New York

Williamson Ties Scents to Exotic Locales OCD Event Doubles Donations to $250,000 LONDON — Matthew Williamson is tak- Flavors & Fragrances perfumer ing his signature fragrance on an olfac- Clement Gavarry. he James Marshall tive journey. The scents, which will be priced at TOCD Foundation Starting this month, the London 35 pounds, or $69 at current exchange held its third annual fashion designer will introduce The rate, per 50-ml. spray, will be packaged dinner Wednesday Collection, a set of four fragrances, each in reworked versions of Williamson’s night at Manhattan’s with notes that can be detected in his signature bottle. The fl acons’ edges Union League Club two-year-old debut scent. The eau de toi- are a different color for each scent and raised $250,000, lettes were concocted to be worn alone — Incense, for example, is decorated equalling the contribu- or layered to create bespoke blends. with pink. The accent colors are also tions from the last two “It was a great opportunity to look picked up on outer cartons. A set of the years combined. But at the strengths of the fi rst fragrance,” four fragrances will be available for it wasn’t just another said Williamson. “You can mix [the 135 pounds, or $264. night on the fund-rais- scents] and build your own thing — you Williamson also slightly tweaked his ing circuit. can experiment.” signature scent’s advertising campaign, A sense of family “It’s weaving a story around the sig- which features model Portia Freeman. infused the program, nature scent in a more exciting way,” Single-page ads will break this month. which was led by vet- said Jill Hill, managing director of The launch will also be supported by a eran cosmetics execu-

Juniper, which holds Williamson’s fra- sampling campaign. tive Linda Marshall, ZACK SECKLER PHOTO BY grance license. The four scents will have a two- president of Elysee Gerald Nestadt, Jennifer Marshall, Linda Marshall, Dan Brestle The Collection’s fragrances are each week exclusive in Selfridges depart- Scientific Cosmetics, and Dionne Warwick. linked to exotic locations, which served ment store here starting Feb. 15, be- whose son James died to inspire the designer’s fashion line, fore beginning an international rollout of complications arising from his affl iction with obsessive-compulsive disor- particularly his spring 2007 collection. in March. der. She is secretary of the foundation, and her son’s widow, Jennifer Marshall, “Travel and nature are two areas Hill also plans to expand the de- is president. Dionne Warwick, who acted as mistress of ceremonies, has had a that have always inspired my work, signer’s portfolio with an additional close relationship with the Marshall family since 1985, when she and Linda cre- so that was a starting point,” said iteration of Williamson’s signature eau ated the singer’s signature fragrance and James worked on it as a chemist. The Williamson. “We pinpointed four plac- de parfum. Dubbed Sheer by Matthew high point of the evening came with a medley of songs sung by Ace Young, one es in the world where one would ide- Williamson, it comprises notes of lime of last year’s “American Idol” fi nalists. His mother, Kay Young, is an aestheti- ally wear [the scents].” oil, a green tea accord, plus bergamot, cian and longtime friend of Linda’s. Lotus is meant to recall a summer ginger oil, jasmine, magnolia, lily of Dan Brestle, the chief operating offi cer of the Estée Lauder Cos., who was evening in Bali, for example, and has the valley, Easter lily, sandalwood, ben- the top honoree, gave the family credit. “Linda and her family are the real notes of magnolia, cassis and berga- zoin, amber and musk notes. stars,” he said. “They came out of Verona, Wis., and broke into the most com- mot, plus a lotus fl ower accord. “It’s a softer interpretation — an petitive fund-raising town in the world.” Warm Sand was created to evoke eau de toilette — which helps in Brestle was given a heartfelt introduction by Michael Gould, chairman and Morocco and features notes of overseas markets,” said Hill. Priced chief executive offi cer of Bloomingdale’s, who described the honoree as a per- ginger lily, musk and san- at 35 pounds, or $69, per 50- son who is genuine and personable to the point of inspiring the best in others. dalwood. Ibiza-inspired ml. spray, it will bow starting “People say they would walk through walls for him,” he said. “I don’t know Jasmine Sambac includes in March. about walls, but certainly go the extra mile.” jasmine sambac notes, Industry sources estimate The other honoree was physician Gerald Nestadt, director of the Johns while Incense, an homage The Collection and Sheer by Hopkins OCD Clinic, which was the recipient of this year’s grant. to the mountains of western Matthew Williamson will Linda Marshall opened the program by recalling a conversation she had India, has frankincense, generate fi rst-year wholesale with her son before he died on March 28, 2002. “He said to me, ‘Mom, I really patchouli and labdanum volume of 1 million pounds, want to make a difference.’” She then looked out over the packed ballroom and notes. The juices were or $1.96 million. thanked the audience for helping to do just that. concocted by International — Brid Costello — Pete Born IF;9?7BFHECEJ?ED7BI;9J?ED 4HE&UR2UNWAY2EPORTi New York – February 9, 2007 coats that dominated the fur industry casual ponchos, today’s fur is versatile a sweater or the hem of a ball gown. The emergence of fur as a leading in the past, today’s fur comes in a enough to take a woman through all And the unique luxury properties of fashion trend is being driven by a new breathtaking array of silhouettes and the occasions of her busy life. Fur fur have made a significant impact generation of creative designers who uses. From elegant full-length coats trim has become a major trend of the in accessories departments with an are reinventing fur for modern active to pretty little stoles and shrugs, season, but unlike past incarnations, explosion of fur bags, hats, scarves lifestyles. Far from the full, luxurious sporty vests, tailored jackets and it now goes everywhere — a sleeve of and boots.

-ICHAEL+ORS 0ETER3OM necks trimmed in fox. The accessory of “Delicious Dichotomy” is how Michael Peter Som presented a clean, sporty choice was a fox ankle-boot worn with Kors described his collection. This made collection in a spare palette of blacks, leggings and bare-legged and with both for some exciting new pairings in fur, like grays and whites injected with shots of short and long dresses. After all, keep- i an olive glenplaid coat with sable collar neon color. The designer used fur spar- ing warm with fur is always beautiful. and cuffs over cashmere sweatpants, and ingly, but where he did, it almost stole a champagne mink shrug with cashmere the show. Som sent out a knockout white pullover and cropped flannel pants. A and gray chubby over a white party #ARLOS-IELE master of sporty American luxury, Kors dress and a must-have steel broadtail Carlos Miele’s collection was notable created a series of cozy, covetable jackets cardigan coat with embroidered gray for its quiet elegance and restraint, a and cardigan coats in fox, broadtail, nutria flowers at the neckline. It was shown theme that was carried through his fur. and mink that are likely to become staples with a skirt but it would look equally Fur had a significant presence on this (along with the fur hats and scarves) in the beautiful with a pair of trousers. runway in a wide variety of silhouettes wardrobes of his well-heeled customers. and treatments that spoke to Mr. Miele’s Kors’ take on the fur dress was a coffee understanding of its creative pos- mink mini worn with a pullover and flannel )SAAC-IZRAHI sibilities. Highlights included a sporty skirt, and a truffle broadtail swing dress, After an absence of fur for a few fox bomber jacket with sweater waist both making a strong case for fur’s viability. seasons, Isaac Mizrahi infused his col- and sleeves and dramatic shawl collar The palette for the designer’s evening coats lection with some of the most creative that magnificently off-set a jeweled Michael Kors was neutral, which only amplified the glam- uses of fur this week. Most striking necklace, underscoring the point that our and elegance of a natural lynx coat and was his gala gown in white and brights the jacket can be dressed up or down. champagne dress ensemble. Kors is not, with white mink petticoats, as well as Another standout was a coat with a however, afraid of bolder colors as his fox bell-shaped dresses with fox-trimmed crocodile leather bodice and sleeves, coat dyed an electric blue makes loud and hems. In more casual looks, he showed with mink on the high collar, cuffs and clear. For the Kors man, there were plenty a puffer jacket and coats with high- bottom-half of the coat. of fur coats that struck a perfect balance between sexy and rugged masculinity: rab- bit-lined hoodies, nutria/beaver full-length coats, a rich lynx coat and a super-luxe blue-black fox coat. $OO2I Doo-Ri Chung, winner of the 2006 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, presented her first foray into fur with a collection that reflected a graceful feminine sensibility. Working in gray, one of the important colors of the season, Chung showed fur’s flirty side in the puff sleeve of one of the season’s pret- tiest dresses, and its sportier side as as a Doo.Ri plush fox vest over a gray cocktail dress. Isaac Mizrahi Carlos Miele

323.782.1700 www.fur.org 18 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 WWD.COM The Beauty Report WWD.COM Organics Abound at Beautyworld Origins Taps Rice FRANKFURT — Beautyworld — a trade fair Messe Frankfurt’s aimed at the cosmetics, perfumery, drugstore historic Festhalle For Modern Fusion and hairdressing sectors — has upped its well- was the center of ness quotient. Beautyworld 2007. For the fi rst time, the fair, which ran from Jan. nspired by an ancient 24 to 28, had a dedicated “Wellness and Spa” IAsian tradition, Origins space in the historic Festhalle exhibition center is using rice as the main to cater to consumer demand for natural and or- ingredient in its new ganic cosmetics created in an ethical manner. Modern Fusion, a face According to Organic Monitor, a London busi- serum designed to stim- ness research and consulting company, European ulate the skin’s natural sales of natural and organic cosmetics have in- shedding process to pro- creased by more than 20 percent annually in duce a softer and more recent years, and were projected to surpass 1 radiant texture. billion euros, or $1.26 billion at Set to be launched average exchange, in 2006. in 22 countries in the The group reported that Village Cosmetics created a beginning of March, full-scale shop in Festhalle. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY Germany boasts the largest market WELZEL FOR MESSE PETRA FRANKFURT PHOTO BY Modern Fusion will share in Europe in the category; 4 bow in the U.S. percent of overall cosmetic sales manufacturer who promotes tak- in 450 depart- stem from natural and organic ing healthy ingestibles, including ment stores, ingredients, versus 2 percent in fl ower teas and herbal granules. 125 freestand- other European countries. His line includes gemstone baths ing Origins And Germany has very strict of aquamarine, rose quartz and boutiques and guidelines for what can be la- rock crystals, plus peels, masks, online. beled “natural” or “organic.” creams and lotions made with “We learned The BDIH, or Association of alkaline water and calcium car- about rice from German Industries and Trading bonate. Asian women Firms, tests and regulates prod- Also reforming the natural and who, after ucts in the pharmaceuticals and organic beauty market is a new washing rice for health care categories, based on aesthetic approach to packaging. cooking, would criteria ranging from raw mate- “What’s different about Korres save the water rials to animal testing and eco- is that it’s fashionable to have it in for its renewing logical impact. your bathroom,” claimed Vassilios benefi ts to cleanse So at Beautyworld, most ven- C. Ionnidis, a distributor with their faces,” said Lizz Starr, executive director dors avoided the term “organic” District Two, in Munich, which of global product development for Origins. “As a altogether, and when asked if represents the Greek beauty brand multitasking product, it’s known for its resurfac- their products were “natural,” Striedl’s packaging goes beyond traditional that recently has updated its look ing, antioxidant, soothing and calming benefi ts. they answered, “as natural as apothecary bottles and plain brown wrappers. and its marketing. “It’s about pack- It helps you achieve a younger and fresher over- possible.” aging and presentation.” all look.” “We are very committed to the environment, know- Many companies at Beautyworld had replaced At $36 for a 1-oz. bottle, the face serum con- ing where ingredients come from and collecting them their traditional apothecary jars and brown-paper tains a rice refi nishing complex made from eight without disturbing nature. But for some ingredients, wrappers with shapely bottles. Some had sprigs of rice-derived ingredients. Fermented rice bran there is a very small quantity available,” said Ursula herbs inside, and loaves of soap contained loofahs, serves as a natural exfoliator, acting as an adhe- Wagenhoff-Wilz, vice president of export for Anne natural leaves and dried fl owers for an aesthetic ef- sive to help even the skin, while purple rice acts Marie Borlind, a 48-year-old company based in Cawl- fect. Others offered luxurious crystal and etched-glass as an antioxidant. In addition, rice bran extract Altburg, Germany. containers with gold tops and feather trims, and soaps and Oryzanol are used as antioxidants to help There was lots of talk at the fair about how natural shaped like stones, fl owers, candies and cupcakes. further even skin tone and protect from discol- a beauty product should be. “Changing our look has broadened our distribution oration, while rice starch and rice butter provide “Sometimes, 100 percent natural is not so good,” to lifestyle and gift shops,” said Benjamin Bohme, dis- the skin a velvety soft texture and help retain said Manfried Hartmann, president of La Nature, a tributor for Calendula Nativ, a 20-year-old Boxberg, moisture and re-hydrate. Memmingen, Germany, company that manufactures Germany, bath-and-body products manufacturer that “Rice is a resurfacer that addresses all surface skin care and bath products. “If beauty creams were had a stand that resembled a candy shop, with “choco- concerns including pore size, texture, tone and all natural, you would have to keep them in the refrig- late bars,” bonbons and doughnuts for the bath. overall radiance,” said Starr. “This product is less erator. Some essential oils [that are all natural] cause Stylish designs are attracting younger consumers aggressive and more gentle, but still delivers the skin problems, and they disappear at temperatures to the category, said Ute Schmidt, who has been sell- same level of benefi ts as fruit acid resurfacer.” over 50 degrees.” ing natural cosmetics in her Giessen, Germany, shop According to Starr, clinical research showed “It is not important to be 100 percent natural or for 20 years. that after four weeks, 75 percent of women using organic,” continued Jens Koster, Germany’s territory “Now, my customers range from 10 to 90 years old, Modern Fusion said their skin felt softer and sales manager for L’Occitane. “Wellness is the impor- both men and women,” she said. “Natural products looked smoother, brighter and more radiant. tant thing — appealing to all the senses.” are a current trend, but the trend will last. It is good Industry sources estimated Modern Fusion Michael Droste-Laux, a new beauty fi rm based in for the soul and the body.” could bring in an estimated $5.5 million in fi rst- Augsberg, Germany, takes a sensory approach with a Beautyworld clocked approximately 11,000 visi- year retail sales. total-body regimen containing natural ingredients. tors, down some 2 percent from the same session last Origins will distribute more than 175,000 “We want to reform the beauty market, not with year. This year, there were 387 exhibitors from 30 samples, in addition to running a direct-mail something you put on the skin, but also inside the countries. campaign. body,” said Droste-Laux, a chemist and herbal tea — Faye Musselman — Michelle Edgar

Care and BSG are targeting shades, is a collaboration between François an additional 25,000 salons Nars, Nars International Makeup Director Ayako to sell P&G professional and Phillip Lim. It will be housed in a special SNIPPETS items. In other company casing, designed by Fabien Baron, who is using news, P&G Graham Webb sketches from Lim’s 2007 fall collection to BIGGER IS BETTER: Procter & Gamble Professional Care is International brands was capture the spirit of the show. Retail buyers were expanding its relationship with Beauty Systems Group, added to P&G’s multichannel introduced to the palette, of which there are only including bringing its different brands from 240 BSG distribution model. Prior to 500 in production, at the “Design for a Cause stores to 740 stores as a result of the new deal. As the Wednesday, Graham Webb and Save the Planet” event by Limited Edition largest chain of professional beauty supply stores in North was distributed solely by New York, which took place Tuesday through America, BSG stores will now carry a broader assortment distributors. Thursday. of Wella Professionals, Sebastian Professional and Graham Webb brands. P&G professional hair color and hair care DESIGNS ON NARS: The ANOTHER ONE GETS BOUGHT: Kenra LLC, the brands will also receive increased presence and marketing sultry makeup look of Indianapolis-based manufacturer of salon hair support in the BSG stores. The professional division of smoky, through-the-veil care products has been acquired by Imperial P&G has entered into a distribution agreement with BSG eyes, soft cheeks and Capital Corporation of Toronto. Kenra makes the for the Southeastern region of the U.S., where it will champagne-colored Kenra Classic, Kenra Platinum, Elucence and maintain a distributor-based selling model. BSG replaces lips seen at the 3.1 Elasta QP hair care items. Imperial looks to grow Beauty Alliance as a distributor in this region. P&G’s rival, Phillip Lim show will be Kenra’s product portfolio and distribution. L’Oréal’s Professional Products Division, bought a 30 fashioned into a limited percent stake in Beauty Alliance in July, hence the move. edition Nars palette for IT’S A NO-GO: TIGI has announced that its Also, to capitalize on changing distribution opportunities fall. The palette, comprising Nars’ limited edition planned partnership with Pamela Anderson on a in the North American marketplace, P&G Professional shimmering purple and cranberry fall makeup palette. hair, makeup and skin care line has been canceled.

20 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 The HBA Report After a Building Shake-up, Cosme

PITTSBURGH — Manufacturers often promise retail- noon by holding meetings on tables in the dining area. ● Prestige Cosmetics touted Color Stories in the ers new items so powerful, the ground will shake. ECRM staff rolled out power wires for computers, but form of makeup booklets with color collections based On Monday at the Effi cient Collaborative Retail most products were locked away in the convention on themes such as My Little Black Book or My Secrets. Marketing’s Cosmetics, Fragrance and Bath Effi cient center. “It looks like a refugee camp,” quipped one The collections will retail for $9.95. Prestige also Program Planning Sessions conference here, the supplier. One supplier added that the location in sub- launched a mascara at $5.95, a liquid eyeliner, bronzers ground did move — literally. zero Pittsburgh kept the meeting going. “If we were in and a carbon black eyeliner. Only hours into the meeting held at the David L. Miami, we’d all hit the beach,” he said. ● The Happy Co. hopes retailers want unique items Lawrence Convention Center, a concrete slab col- Although Bowlus was promised the center would be such as microwaveable, heatable neck wraps and boo- lapsed, leaving a tractor trailer dangling just a few feet open for Tuesday meetings, notes were slipped under ties. “We have great Christmas gifts and sets, as well as away from the gathering. doors during the night stating that an expert would be items for all occasions,” said Phil Daleuski, sales and “I was right in the middle of my presentation,” said fl own in from the United Kingdom by noon to assess marketing director. One buyer said these items could Stu Dolleck, who was ex- offset consumer boredom with traditional plaining his company’s li- holiday fragrance gift sets. Judy Aspinall, pology program. “I knew it buyer for the Chain Drug Marketing didn’t sound good.” Added Consortium, also voiced excitement over Lisa Yarnell, president giftable spa items from Dream Time Inc. and chief executive offi cer “They have some unique items that really of Jane & Co., “We walked work for our members,” she said. about into the cold just ● CCA has discovered the power of near where the truck was the damage and the safety green tea and has added the ingredient to six new hanging.” of the building. “Thank stockkeeping units of nail care products. The company Within minutes, the goodness he wasn’t coming also showed new formulas in the nail care category. ECRM staff had evacuated from Australia,” joked one ● With European brands infi ltrating U.S. shores, rooms set up with hun- buyer. Axel Kraft International showed its bath and body dreds of new items and the Undaunted, ECRM’s products, including Fruttini, priced between $4.99 and Power Hall where many team once again set up $6.49, and Fruttini Smoothies. fi rst-timers were trying to tables and computers for ● Many retailers were interested to hear what get their products into re- meetings. The convention Ascendia had to say about its recent acquisition of tail doors. center remained closed on Calgon and The Healing Garden from Coty. Ascendia Speaking to the group, Wednesday and buyers and already has a well established bath and body business ECRM ceo Charles Bowlus sellers continued to do the with Lander brands as well as Mr. Bubble, which it explained that the meet- best they could. Most man- purchased from Playtex. “We expect a seamless transi- A new soap from San Francisco Soap Co. ings would be rescheduled ufacturers, who shelled tion and no interruption in service,” said Bill Acheson, the next day, either in hotel out close to $20,000 for the executive vice president of Global Sales at Ascendia rooms or back in the convention center. Some meetings meeting, praised Bowlus and his team for making the Brands. He noted that both brands have tremendous were already planned for the hotel, and manufacturers best of a situation that “is out of their hands.” consumer recognition that would translate into strong with those slots kept business going as usual. Others Somehow, amidst all the chaos, business did get selection at the shelf of the brands. quickly looked to snag buyers milling in hallways for done and retailers were treated to some new items ● San Francisco Soap Co. also hopes to heat things impromptu meetings. they hope will bring business to their doors for the re- up in mass bath and body with the reintroduction of its While a few took the accident as a chance to relax, mainder of 2007, including the holiday period. line. The company is also repositioning Simply Be Well most intrepid buyers and sellers salvaged the after- Among the highlights: as a certifi ed organic brand. Coty Follows ‘Instinct’ to Create a Beckham Beauty House

efore David Beckham makes his American debut with the L.A. Galaxy this that this fragrance is more about a “classic” Beckham. Bsummer, the soccer superstar hopes to score off the field with this month’s “The fragrance’s concept is about focusing on the senses, living challenges and U.S. launch of his men’s fragrance, Instinct. The brand’s U.S. bow follows a suc- trusting your instinct,” said Caroline Carter, Coty Beauty’s senior marketing man- cessful European launch a little more than a year ago. ager. “It embodies [David’s] attributes. It’s more stylish and sophisticated.” “Beckham is seen as a lifestyle,” said Michael Ferrara, Coty’s senior vice presi- Coty executives said that research showed awareness of Beckham was growing dent of marketing. “He’s seen as a style icon with a broad appeal beyond sports.” in the U.S. market, especially after last month’s record-breaking deal to bring him Coty Inc. executives have plans to turn the Beckham brand into the Beckham to the L.A. Galaxy. Beauty House, a franchise consisting of multiple men’s fragranc- “Before the World Cup, his awareness in the U.S. was 75 per- es, men’s grooming products and his-and-her fragrances called David cent,” said Carter. “Now, it’s universal.” Intimately Beckham. Beckham and his wife, Victoria, the former Beckham’s Coty executives are hoping Instinct attracts a young generation Spice Girl “Posh,” are partners in the joint beauty business. new of men between the ages of 18 and 34, with high incomes, who are “Beckham’s an iconic celebrity, and the timing couldn’t be fragrance, fashion-conscious and trendsetters, according to Carter. more perfect,” said Eric Thoreux, president of Coty Beauty Instinct. “It will bring incremental sales to the category, and we hope it Americas. “He has all the elements because he’s involved in the will attract lots of impulse purchases from people who aren’t ordi- sports community and in Hollywood. The European launch of narily looking for fragrances,” said Ferrara. Instinct was the best fragrance launch we’ve had in the past 10 Instinct, which was launched in Europe in 2005, is top perform- years.” ing brand in Europe, said Carter. By end of this month, Instinct According to Thoreux, the company is focusing on growing will be available in some 20,000 department and specialty stores, the men’s fragrance business to compete with Coty’s number-one including J.C. Penney, Sears, Ulta and Kohl’s, in addition to mass selling Stetson, and Adidas scents in the sports market. retailers and drugstores such as Wal-Mart and Walgreens. Coty Beckham, who last month signed a fi ve-year, $250 million plans to launch a men’s fl anker fragrance next fall, in addition to contract with the L.A. Galaxy, has already inked commercial launching Intimately Beckham, the Beckham duo set. endorsements with megabrands Gillette, Pepsi, Adidas and Got Available in eau de toilette bottles — 2.5 oz. for $50, 1.7 oz. for Milk. The Instinct launch only adds to his portfolio of brands and $40 and 1 oz. for $32 — the fragrance will include a deodorant stick marks his entry into the beauty world. for $16. “We’re hoping this potentially challenges Coty Beauty’s Created by perfumer Beatrice Picquet at International Flavors Stetson brand, one of the largest players in the mass market, & Fragrances Inc., Instinct is described as a feugere fragrance with over the next two years,” said Ferrara. “We…expect it to be one top notes of Italian bergamot and grapefruit; middle notes of star of the top three brands in the U.S.” anis, cardamom and red pimento, and bottom notes of Haiti veti- Ferrara said that he expected business from the U.S. to equal, if not outpace, ver, patchouli and white amber. the fragrance’s business abroad. Although Instinct will be supported by a television ad campaign, Coty will in- “We’re hoping that the noise he creates when he gets here, along with the troduce a print campaign photographed by Michael Jansson. The single-page ads increased advertising, will attract consumers to the department store,” said — with 500,000 scent strips — will break in March in 10 magazines, including Ferrara. People, ESPN, Maxim, Cosmopolitan and Glamour. Coty executives declined to comment on sales forecasts; however, industry There will also be online initiatives in addition to ad imagery for the fra- sources estimated the fragrance would generate fi rst-year U.S. retail sales of $30 grance’s in-store launch. Coty is in discussions with Beckham about the possibility million, with about $8 million spent on advertising. Global retail sales will gener- of making some in-store appearances. About four million samples of the Instinct ate between $40 million and $50 million. fragrance will be distributed to consumers. Although some people might think of Beckham as being edgy, Ferrara notes — Michelle Edgar WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 21

WWD.COM etics Show Gets Down to Business

● Buyers were on the prowl for natural and organic to sponsor a child through World Vision, and 100% Impromptu meetings were set at lines. Schroeder & Tremayne is offering its Botanical Love will sponsor a bash for seniors in high school at a nearby hotel after a concrete Bath line as well as antimicrobial accessories made Universal Studios this spring. slab collapsed at the David L. from bamboo. The consensus at the show was that buy- ● In color, minerals continue to shine. Jane’s Lawrence Convention Center. ers have done their homework and want to build cred- Yarnell said Be Pure, the company’s mineral collec- ible natural bath and body departments. tion, would be extended, including a mineral version ● With fragrance sales lackluster, several compa- of the popular face in a box concept. She thinks Be nies showed solutions. Of particular interest was 100% Pure is appealing to women who want to buy minerals, Love, a new line from First American Brand. The line but are scared off by pricing. Another notable launch is a teen brand combining a Web site, a charity focus from Jane is Lip Parfaits, which will be available for and celebrity backing from up-and-comer Jeannie holiday 2007. Mirage Cosmetics also threw its hat into Ortega. Kids can log onto the site and build funds the mineral ring with a line called Fresh Minerals. Unilever 2006 Profi ts Increase 26 Percent LONDON — Unilever reported Thursday that fourth-quarter 2006 net profi ts swelled to 2.1 billion euros, or $2.7 billion at average exchange, versus 726 million euros, or $920 million, in the same quarter in 2005. The increase was large- ly due to the sale of its European frozen-foods di- vision, which was acquired by Permira in November for 1.2 billion euros, or $1.55 bil- lion. Stripping out discon- tinued operations, profi ts in the quarter rose 30 percent to 898 million euros, or $1.16 billion. Sales were fl at at 9.73 billion euros, or $12.54 bil- lion. At constant exchange, sales were up 3 percent. By region, turnover in Europe was fl at at 3.62 billion euros, or $4.66 billion; in the Americas, it dropped 2.1 per- cent to 3.45 billion euros, or $4.45 billion, while Asia-Africa was up 1.8 percent to 2.66 bil- lion euros, or $3.44 billion. On a like-for-like basis, sales were up 0.1 percent, 4.3 percent and 7 percent, respectively. For the full year, Unilever’s net profi ts rose 26 percent at both current and constant ex- change to 5.02 billion euros, or $6.3 billion, converted at constant exchange. Sales were up 3 percent in the year, to 39.64 billion euros, or $49.8 billion. The group’s 2006 oper- ating margin hit 13.6 percent, up from 13.2 percent in 2005. However, stripping out one- off gains, the margin came in 0.3 percent lower than the previous year. For the year, Unilever’s sales in Europe were fl at at 15 billion euros, or $18.84 billion; the Americas generated 13.78 billion euros, or $17.31 billion, an increase of 4.6 percent, while Asia- Africa reported growth of 5.7 percent to 10.86 billion euros, or $13.65 billion. According to Patrick Cescau, group chief execu- tive, “We expect to deliver underlying sales growth in 2007 within our 3 percent to 5 percent longer-term tar- get range. Savings programs are expected to drive an improvement in operating margin to over 13.6 percent after charging restructuring costs of 0.5 percent to 1 per- cent of sales.” — Brid Costello 22 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Fashion Week, Byte by Byte

hile there may not be enough press passes to go around, there certainly ap- Wpears to be no shortage of blogs reporting on all the “news” coming from in- The crowd at Marc Jacobs. side the tents at Bryant Park or, for that matter, any other fashion-related event. Depending on the blog, readers are receiving more gossip, celebrity sightings and play-by-play analysis than ever before, along with a great deal they probably never needed to know, such as Cathy Horyn pondering about how she didn’t have time to make it to the hairdresser before the Michael Kors show. Here’s a look at some of the “best of ” blog comments that have surfaced during the past week: ON THE DESIGNERS: Robin Givhan, The Washington Post; Feb. 4, Backstage on Douglas Hannant: “He must have gotten hold at Michael of some bad Kool-Aid because that is the only ex- Kors. planation for those shiny, heavy black tights he showed with everything from a day suit to a cock- tail dress.” Cathy Horyn, The New York Times; Feb. 5, on Thom Browne’s collection: “Between the shorts and the longer silhouette of stern, high-buttoned coats and midi skirts, you had a cross between a hobbit and Abraham Lincoln. I don’t know what to make of tent-shaped capes trimmed out in white fur. What I disliked most about the collec- tion, though, was the air of virtue and sincerity. It wasn’t real. It was an exercise gone too far.”

ON PERSONAL STYLE: came up with the idea earlier this week and ordered Horyn, Feb. 7: “I was sitting this morning at 200 hot-dog and 200 hamburger-shaped cookies from the Michael Kors’ show (luxe babes, chic glen plaid) Internet. ‘I don’t know if [the models] are eating them, and wondering about my hair. I’ve been wearing but they are defi nitely taking them,’ he said.” a black knit cap all week. I know what everyone’s thinking, ‘When is she going to take that stupid ON CELEBRITY SPOTTING: hat off?’ But it’s almost too late at this stage to Givhan, Feb. 7: “I also believe Joan Jett was sitting take it off, and I don’t have time to get to the hair- across from me, but I can’t be sure. It was a very scary- dressers. I was thinking I could get a wig.” looking, androgynous person dressed all in black except Givhan, Feb. 7: At Kors, “as [actress Rita for a red scarf at the neck. This person was also wearing Moreno and I] were chatting, she noticed that greenish eye shadow and had spiked black hair. Joan/ the label of the coat I had in my lap said, ‘Calvin John Jett never smiled or even changed expression. So Klein.’ She gave me a fi nger-wagging and a mock it was impossible to get a sense of whether a smile or sigh of disapproval. I’m a newspaper gal. Who can frown might offer an indication of gender.” afford Michael Kors? (The coat, by the way, was a Givhan, Feb. 7: “Russell Simmons has been mak- Christmas gift from my parents and is not from ing the rounds at shows. I saw him at Marc Jacobs on the pricy Francisco Costa collection for Calvin Monday night and then again at Anna Sui. Now that he’s Klein.) Someone had already interrogated Rita split from Kimora Lee, I can’t help but wonder if he’s about her eyeglasses and noted that they were checking out the runways in search of a new model/wife. NOT Michael Kors. Such pressure!” Oooh, how catty was that?” Fashionista.com; Feb. 7, on Paris Hilton stopping by ON FIGHTING THE SKINNY TREND: the Heatherette show: “Sidekicks buzzed with the same Rachel Dodes, The Wall Street Journal; Feb. 8, news — Paris [Hilton] is coming; fi nd an outfi t! No wait, A look from on breakfast at Kate and Andy Spade’s presenta- Paris is really sick with the fl u, so sorry she can’t make Douglas tion: “But it was the food in the men’s showroom it! Glitter spilled on MAC counters, assistants scattered Hannant. that caused a stir: At the center of a large table in to the exits.” the room for Mr. Spade’s ‘Jack Spade’ label was a wooden bowl containing large hot-dog-shaped ON WANTING FASHION WEEK TO END: cookies with a big orange tag that stated, ‘Jack Jennifer Schonborn, executive editor, elle.com, Feb. 8: “OK, the tiredness is start- Cares.’ The cookies, which are being distributed ing to set in. I’m at my desk right now, gulping a green tea, trying to wake up. What is today by Mr. Spade’s publicist as models enter the it about fashion week that is so exhausting? Much of the time, you feel like you’re just tents at Bryant Park, were ‘baked with extra love sitting in a cab in stalled traffi c on the way to a show, or you’re sitting in the tent wait- and care,’ the label read. ‘A portion of the pro- ing for the show to start. Why is sitting making me so tired? Did the mere presence of ceeds given to skinny people everywhere.’ ‘I don’t A look Donald Trump at Michael Kors yesterday, cantaloupe-colored waterfall of hair draw- know if I am for or against skinny, but I wanted from Thom ing all eyeballs in the room to him, simply suck all the life out of my body?” to comment on all this,’ said Mr. Spade, who Browne. — Amy Wicks and Stephanie D. Smith

CALLING ALL playbooks to go from one to four,” he said. Immelt added early employer: “Many of the big magazine companies, ADVERTISERS: that part of the reason NBC fell so far off the radar is such as Time Inc., are run these days not by people who Joanne Lipman, because it stopped taking enough risks and became love magazines but by people in search of profi t,” he MEMO PAD editor in chief complacent in the development process. Separately, he writes. (Vanity Fair, like WWD, is owned by Condé Nast of Condé Nast said that CNBC completed a review of Maria Bartiromo, Publications). He later adds, in advice that could be Portfolio, interviewed Jeffrey Immelt, chairman and chief who took some drubbing in the press for logging some pointed at that company’s fl agship Time, where he got executive offi cer of General Electric Co. yesterday in front frequent-fl ier miles on Citicorp’s jet, and he fully stands his New York start, “Magazines that tell stories in type of a crucial audience — potential and current advertisers. behind her. — A.W. and pictures will survive the coming electronic revolution. Many that attended the breakfast event at the Four Magazines that merely deliver information will have to Seasons said they are curiously awaiting the premier issue INVESTM ENT PROPERTY: In other Trib news, the Los Angeles either become stronger and more vital, or drown in the to see if they’ll pony up their advertising dollars. One Times has eliminated over 200 positions in the last fi ve turbulent wakes of change.” The Good editors chose Spy attendee, who handles several luxury brands, said he will years, while editor Dean Baquet was forced out for his and Vanity Fair for the list, plus fi ve Time Inc. magazines wait one or two issues before making the call. Another resistance to further job cuts — but that doesn’t mean it’s — though not all of them in their present-day form potential advertiser, which currently advertises in a few of not hiring and growing, at least where there might be a and not Time. “Gee, I guess this is why we never see the other leading business titles, added that he is also not healthy ad base. The paper will launch an Image section Graydon at the Time Life alumni meetings,” cracked a going to make a decision until he reviews the fi rst issue. covering fashion and beauty on March 18, the fi rst day of spokeswoman for Time Inc. — Irin Carmon David Carey, president of the Condé Nast Business Los Angeles Fashion Week, sources said. Rose Apodaca, the Media Group, informed the crowd that several more former West Coast bureau chief of WWD who once worked BY THE NUMBERS: The group of potential owners clamoring events are planned for the spring. He also announced at the Times, will serve as consulting editor until the paper after The Tribune Co. will be particularly interested in the that the magazine will carry more than 150 ad pages fi nds a permanent editor; in addition to moving existing company’s earnings, which were released Thursday. In its from 94 companies — 51 of which are top business-to- reporters over, the Times is also looking to fi ll several publishing division, ad revenue increased by 4 percent for business marketers. And, 20 advertisers are new clients positions in the section. — I.C. the fourth quarter, although this fi gure includes an additional for Condé Nast. week for 2006. Without that week, advertising revenue fell Now, back to Immelt: During the interview, he quickly A TIME GONE BY: In his preface to Good Magazine’s list 3 percent. National advertising grew by 3 percent, with help shot down rumors that NBC Universal could go up for of its 51 favorite magazines, “big-shot editor” Graydon from the transportation, health care and movie categories. sale. But, he did acknowledge that the beleaguered Carter (the phrase is Good’s), while offering his thoughts Circulation revenues were up 1 percent including the extra network has seen better days. “It was not in any of our on what makes a magazine great, includes a swipe at his week and down 6 percent excluding it. — A.W. WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 23 WWD.COM Department Store Comps Shine By Liza Casabona economist for the company. January showed more positive same store sales nsulated by a luxury consumer base willing to surprises than negative, said Dana Telsey, chief JANUARY SAME-STORE SALES Idole out big bucks on pricy items, the depart- research offi cer, Telsey Advisory group. Some ment store channel delivered a stellar sales per- companies who did better than expected could formance in January. report higher earnings over the next month or two JANUARY DECEMBER NOVEMBER Top performers included Saks Fifth Ave. but that remains to be seen. Enterprises, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, From an economic perspective, sources said with same-store sales gains of 11.4 percent, 11.3 consumers are still spending, buoyed by an econ- 2007 2006 2006 2006 percent and 11.1 percent, respectively. omy that has continued to do well despite predic- % Change % Change % Change Other retailers in the mass and specialty chan- tions to the contrary regarding housing, energy DEPARTMENT STORES nels that did well cited more favorable weather costs and consumer confi dence. conditions as well as gift card redemption for their “Consumer spending has yet to slow notice- Bon-Ton 6.4 0.9 -5.8 -10.5 gains. A quick drop in temperatures at the end of ably under the weight of uncertainties regarding Dillard’s -3.0 3.0 -5.0 -3.0 January helped drive late sales and clearance of the valuation of housing,” said John Lonski, chief Federated 8.6 1.0 4.4 8.5 cold-weather inventory for some retailers, but economist for Moody’s Investor Services. those who had their spring mix out felt a chill. “The most important factor [in retail sales fi g- Gottschalks -1.0 0.3 0.6 -0.9 “Weather was a factor, but it cut both ways de- ures] still remains the underlying strength of the Kohl’s 8.7 2.0 3.0 3.7 pending on what a retailer’s inventory and fash- economy and job market here, which is giving Neiman Marcus 11.3 4.1 7.3 2.9 ion positions were,” said Ken Perkins, president, consumers the confi dence to go out and continue Retail Metrics LLC. to spend,” Perkins said. Nordstrom 11.1 6.0 9.0 5.4 Of the retailers tracked by WWD, 33 out of the The comp performance in January was the J.C. Penney 3.6 2.5 2.6 1.4 49 companies reporting same-store sales posted strongest retailers have reported since August and Saks Fifth Ave. Enterprises 11.4 3.7 11.1 7.2 increases for January. There were 15 decliners, September, Perkins pointed out. It remains to be Stage Stores 7.5 1.5 2.2 0.2 and one was fl at. Overall, the department store seen, however, how much January’s results were sector was the strongest with a 6.5 percent aver- driven by gift card redemption or if it really sig- Average: 6.5 2.5 2.9 1.5 age increase, followed by the mass merchant sec- nals a reversal of weaker same-store sales growth, tor with an increase of 2.3 percent and specialty he said. (See related story, this page.) SPECIALTY CHAINS stores with a 2.2 percent average gain. Regarding the mass merchants, results were In the department store channel, Federated solid. Target reported a 5.1 percent increase in Abercrombie & Fitch -6.0 33.0 -1.0 -3.0 posted a robust 8.6 percent comps gain that the same-store sales, about equal to the comparable Aéropostale 5.4 12.3 1.7 1.0 company attributed to an “outstanding perfor- period last year and just higher than December’s American Eagle 17.0 11.3 13.0 14.0 mance” in its legacy Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s numbers. TJX Cos. also reported a respectable stores. Sales were driven by gift cards and colder comps gain of 4 percent. Wal-Mart continued to Ann Taylor -10.2 10.9 -5.3 -4.3 weather. show some weakness: Its discount stores reported Banana Republic 14.0 -6.0 2.0 -1.0 Kohl’s was up 8.7 percent, also driven by a low 1.9 percent comp gain, which was within its Bath & Body Works 19.0 -2.0 5.0 16.0 weather and gift cards. Bon-Ton reversed a nega- guidance. Bebe 0.8 9.8 4.0 5.8 tive trend over the last few months with a 6.4 per- Specialty chains presented the most mixed cent increase. results of the month, with women’s specialty Buckle 7.8 3.0 3.6 4.2 Continued strong performances in the depart- chains, more than teen or other stores, suffering Caché 10.0 0.0 4.0 8.0 ment store sector have been driven by a combina- the worst declines. Cato -7.0 6.0 -6.0 -2.0 tion of factors, Perkins said. Sales have been fu- Ann Taylor continued to slide, reporting a 10.2 eled by a “fashion-right” focus to attract younger percent decline in same-store sales, its fourth The Children’s Place 3.0 9.0 5.0 12.0 teens, who increasingly list the channel as a pri- month of consecutive declines. Chico’s also re- Chico’s FAS -3.5 14.6 -2.0 -0.4 mary shopping destination in recent surveys. The ported its fourth straight month of declining Christopher & Banks -4.0 -3.0 -7.0 -8.0 segment’s comps were also impacted by consolida- comps with a 3.5 percent decrease. tion in the industry, which has lead to fewer stores Gap continued to struggle in January with a 6 Citi Trends 3.2 22.7 -0.1 1.8 and less competition in malls, Perkins added. percent decline in comps at its namesake banner Claire’s 9.0 9.0 0.0 0.0 According to Retail Forward, January same- and a 1 percent drop at Old Navy. On the other Deb Shops -3.8 11.6 -7.5 -9.5 store sales growth expanded 4 percent. That was hand, the company’s Banana Republic stores re- Dress Barn 8.0 16.0 5.0 4.0 down from year-ago results of a 5.1 percent gain ported a 14 percent same-store sales gain. but is an improvement over last month’s 3.2 per- The teen sector largely beat Wall Street ex- Gap (U.S. stores) -6.0 3.0 -9.0 -7.0 cent growth. “The underlying numbers suggest a pectations for January. American Eagle reported Guess NA 31.0 9.6 12.1 strong start to the year. Shoppers were out in force a same-store sales increase of 17 percent, well Gymboree 0.0 2.0 15.0 5.0 as a result of gift cards, the letup in gas prices and above industry expectations. Aéropostale also sur- favorable weather,” said Frank Badillo, director prised with a 5.4 percent comps gain after months Hot Topic -6.6 -0.7 -5.1 -4.3 of the Retail Forward KnowledgeBase and senior of low-single-digit numbers through the holidays. Limited Brands (total apparel) 12.0 0.0 -7.0 6.0 Mothers Work -6.0 3.9 -0.3 -1.0 New York & Company 2.3 0.6 3.2 -2.8 Old Navy -1.0 0.0 -10.0 -10.0 Gift Cards Bolster Holiday Results Pacifi c Sunwear -7.7 4.9 -3.2 -3.8 Rite Aid 4.5 0.9 2.6 2.5 By Jeanine Poggi United Retail 2.0 15.0 -2.0 3.0 ONCE A SLUGGISH MONTH FOR SALES, THE SURGE IN HOLIDAY GIFT CARDS HAS MADE JANUARY Victoria’s Secret 7.0 3.0 10.0 14.0 increasingly important for fourth-quarter performance. Walgreen 10.8 7.4 7.9 16.2 “Although January is a typical clearance month for the bulk of specialists and represents the smallest monthly selling period of the year, the month accounts for a large majority of gift card redemptions and, for a Wet Seal 3.6 51.4 1.3 5.5 handful of specialists, offers a glimpse into spring selling,” said Thomas Filandro, retail analyst at Susquehanna Wilsons -20.0 -12.7 -23.1 -19.1 Financial Group, in a research note. Zumiez 13.0 23.2 11.5 12.1 Retailers don’t record gift cards as a sale until they are redeemed, and the National Retail Federation estimates that 40 percent of cards were used in January, with many shoppers spending more than the value of Average: 2.2 8.8 0.5 2.0 the cards. Gift cards are blurring the traditional holiday time line, extending seasonal spending past New Year’s into MASS MERCHANTS January and February. BJ’s Wholesale Club 2.0 2.0 0.6 0.6 “If you are closely watching same-store sales, a lot of those numbers are not as useful as they use to be. We are not big believers in same-store sales,” said Craig Johnson, president at Customer Growth Partners. “With Costco 3.0 12.0 9.0 4.0 Internet sales growing and gift cards and redemption time fi guring in, they are even less relevant. That’s why we Ross Stores 2.0 9.0 2.0 0.0 believe the truest comparison of holiday sales is the quarterly results, which account for November, December Stein Mart -1.9 -0.4 0.0 3.8 and January sales. It is harder to play games with quarterly numbers than month-to-month sales comparisons.” According to the NRF, gift card spending in November and December reached $27.8 billion, beating the Target 5.1 5.2 4.1 5.9 group’s original estimate of $24.8 billion. This stellar gift card sales performance and blast of cold weather TJX Cos. 4.0 5.0 6.0 3.0 provided consumers a reason to shop and helped retailers rebound after a diffi cult holiday. Wal-Mart (discount stores) 1.9 4.0 1.3 -0.5 “This year, the late onset of winter compelled consumers to cash in their holiday gift cards on the seasonal apparel they didn’t buy pre-Christmas,” said Paul Walsh, vice president and senior business meteorologist at Average: 2.3 5.3 3.3 2.4 Planalytics. Retailers that offered trend-right, clearance winter merchandise as well as full-priced spring assortments Tally: came out on top. Department stores Kohl’s and Federated attributed their better-than-expected results on strong Up 33 41 30 28 gift card redemptions throughout the month. “The success of holiday clearance, which was bolstered by strong gift card redemption, fueled January Flat 1 3 2 2 transactions per average store up a estimated 15 percent,“ Filandro said in a note. Down 15 6 17 17 “Teens look at gift cards as instant gratifi cation,” said Christine Chen, retail analyst at Pacifi c Growth Total 49 50 49 47 Equities. “For adult women, however, there is a lag effect. They may hold onto their cards anywhere from three to six months, waiting for new spring merchandise or must-have items.” SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS 24 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 WWD.COM Hermès 4Q-Sales Gain 6% House Mulls Labor Bill By Miles Socha percent at constant exchange to 38.8 million euros, or $50 million, while tableware improved 25 percent PARIS — Robust sales of perfumes, silk scarves and to 14.9 million euros, or $19.2 million. Altering Union Protocol leather handbags drove solid holiday business at Goldman Sachs analyst Jacques-Franck Dossin Hermès International, propelling fourth-quarter sales noted the better-than-expected watch results “bode By Kristi Ellis up 6 percent to 463.3 million euros, or $597.5 million. well for margins.” Stripping out the impact of currency, the increase At constant exchange rates, sales rose 14.9 percent WASHINGTON — Faced with retail industry opposition, a stood at 9.9 percent, besting some analysts’ expecta- for silks and textiles, 5.6 percent for rtw and fashion House panel began considering a bill Thursday that could tions. Currency conversions were made at average accessories and 4.5 percent for leather goods. Hermès test organized labor’s clout with the new Democratic ma- exchange rates for the period. noted that strong demand for small leather goods and jority in Congress. While its overall pace trailed the double-digit leather bags offset the loss of sales due to a discontin- The legislation would require the National Labor Re- gains logged by many of its luxury peers, the French ued range of canvas bags seen as a threat to its tony lations Board to develop a procedure for a union to be fi rm trumpeted increases across all its product cat- image. That cancellation dented group sales by 2.6 recognized if a majority of employees sign authorization egories and cited good momentum in most regions percent, according to calculations by HSBC analysts cards — known as a “card check” system — choosing the except Japan, which is hampered by a “rather un- Antoine Belge and Erwan Rambourg. union as their bargaining representative. It would instruct favorable environment,” said Patrick Thomas, chief In addition to its perennially popular Kelly and the NLRB to certify the union without giving employers executive offi cer of Hermès. Birkin bags, the company cited strong demand for the option of an secret election. “We are very much within newer styles such as the Paris- Under current law, there is no mandate that employers our forecast,” Thomas told Bombay, the Lindy and the so- must recognize when a majority of workers sign the cards WWD. “For 2007, our expecta- called “fl at Birkin,” in addi- in favor of unionization. The employer then has to seek a tion is a growth rate between 8 tion to small leather goods. secret ballot. and 10 percent, with real am- Thomas attributed the re- Retailers are concerned the legislation would ease the bitions to be at 10 percent.” bound in silk sales to cyclical way for unions to organize their workers. Underscoring his confi- trends and a burst of creative The bill would also strengthen penalties for employers dence is strong growth in and colorful designs under ar- who try to strong-arm workers seeking to organize by im- Europe, China and the U.S., tistic director Bali Barrett. posing civil fi nes of as much as $20,000 per violation. where in the fi rst half Hermès STUDIO DES FLEURS PHOTO BY By contrast, rtw sales dis- “Most employers are not bad actors, however, I do be- will open a unit in Charlotte, appointed, declining “slight- lieve the current structure of the representation process N.C., and a major flagship ly” last year, Thomas said. He perpetuates the ability of a few employers to coerce em- on Wall Street in New York. blamed the slip on logistics ployees without consequence,” Rep. Robert Andrews (D., “There is a strong evolution problems and late deliveries, N.J.), chairman of the House subcommittee on Health, of the American customer to- not deficiencies in collec- Employment, Labor and Pensions, said in a statement. “I wards quality, and the ready- tions by the house’s design- believe that restoring workers’ free choice through [the to-wear is also selling very ers, Jean Paul Gaultier and bill] is the only way to ensure that they have the right to well,” he said. “We expect a Véronique Nichanian, who bargain for fair wages and benefi ts.” good 2007 in the States.” head women’s and men’s rtw, The support divided along party lines at the commit- In China, Hermès plans respectively. tee hearing on the Employee Free Choice Act, which was to open four stores this year, An Hermès silk scarf. Thomas characterized 2006 introduced by Rep. George Miller (D., Calif.) and has 232 bringing its complement to 13. as a “year of transition,” given co-sponsors, well above the 218 votes needed for passage In total, the company plans to renovate more than 20 the retirement of its charismatic artistic director and in the House. stores this year. ceo, Jean-Louis Dumas, and the passing of the artistic The panel heard from a group of workers who were By region, constant-currency sales rose by 8.5 per- reins to his son, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, and his niece, allegedly intimidated and fi red for supporting unions, as cent in France, 12.5 percent in the rest of Europe, 9.6 Pascale Mussard. well as representatives of the AFL-CIO and U.S. Chamber percent in the Americas, 8.9 percent in Asia-Pacifi c Meanwhile, the HSBC analysts said uncertainties of Commerce. and 6.3 percent in Japan. in Japan account for Hermès’ wide sales targets, and Rob Green, vice president of government and political “The challenge is Japan,” Thomas noted, attribut- “the conference call confi rmed our view that earn- affairs at the National Retail Federation, said the trade ing slow growth there to “a little bit of indigestion ings growth is unlikely to accelerate in 2007, and association has joined the Coalition for a Democratic with luxury goods” and prices that have jumped 50 would remain below that of most peers.” Workplace, along with the American Apparel & Footwear percent over the last fi ve years, due primarily to yen On the positive side, management reiterated the Association, and will soon launch an aggressive lobbying weakness. “We have to be very pragmatic.” family’s commitment to keeping the fi rm independent campaign to fi ght the bill. Still, one analyst cheered its results in Japan. In and told analysts Hermès is not aware of any investor “This legislation puts the opportunity to organize front a research note for Merrill Lynch, Antoine Colonna having accumulated more than a 0.5 percent stake. and center in a retail environment,” Green said. noted the company’s 5 percent constant-currency in- For the full year, Hermès sales rose 6.1 percent to Chris Chafe, chief of staff at UNITE HERE, the primary crease in Japan for the full year “highlights, in our 1.52 billion euros, or $1.95 billion, from 1.43 billion apparel and textile workers union, said the legislation is view, the strength of the brand even in its most ma- euros, or $1.79 billion, a year ago. “incredibly important” for workers because “it further ture markets.” Expressed at constant exchange rates, the in- legitimizes the possibility of alternative routes that work- By product category, perfumes posted the biggest crease was 7.8 percent. Leather goods accounted for ers and companies could choose.” Chafe said, “If Congress surge in the quarter, up 39.3 percent at constant ex- 44 percent of revenues; rtw and fashion accessories, passes [the bill], it will create a different framework and change to 29 million euros, or $37.4 million, thanks 19 percent, and silks and textiles, 11 percent. conversation between employers and labor, and it will cre- primarily to the success of the new men’s scent, Hermès reports profi ts on March 22. Shares of the ate conditions whereby it’s easier for workers to illustrate Terre d’Hermès. fi rm rose 2 percent to close at 94.85 euros, or $119.47, their interest in having a union.” Watch sales accelerated in the quarter, up 21.4 on the Paris Bourse.

Monique Mercedes, Fashion Find Luxe Common Ground Lhuillier

By Caroline Tell It’s the same emotional connection.” the market for four to eight years,” he To Lhuillier, the connection is also im- added. “If you get it wrong, you have to “CARS ARE FASHION. THEY STOPPED mediately apparent. “The Mercedes-Benz contemplate your mistakes for an aw- being modes of transportation a long and Monique Lhuillier customer is the fully long time.” time ago,” said Angus MacKenzie, editor same,” she said. “Someone who appre- Futschik said Mercedes-Benz made in chief of Motor Trend magazine. ciates luxury, style. Someone who is not sure to be on the forefront of fashion (it’s MacKenzie was one of the participants always about trends but good design.” the title sponsor of New York Fashion in a roundtable discussion Wednesday The beginning of the discussion fo- Week) by opening a satellite design morning, sponsored by Mercedes-Benz, cused on the design processes of both studio in Como, Italy, near Milan. “We at the Bryant Park Tents entitled “Driven cars and clothes. Where Lhuillier wanted to be in the presence of current by Design.” claimed it takes her three months to trends in fashion and incorporate it into Other panelists were women’s wear see a sketch come to life, Futschik ex- our work,” he said. Other satellite offi ces and bridal designer, Monique Lhuillier plained he spends about fi ve years see- are based in Los Angeles and Tokyo. and director of passenger car design ing a Mercedes-Benz to completion, from As for the global customer, the panel for Mercedes Car Group, Hans-Dieter the two years he spends designing to the members said there are differences de- Futschik. The discussion sought to con- three years he spends on the producing pending on the product. nect the automotive and fashion indus- end. “We have to think very carefully “I’ve always found that good design tries through an ever-increasing demand about what we do,” he said. “We have translates across different cities,” said for luxury goods as well as through the to make sure the car will be a success.” Lhuillier. “A bestseller is generally power of brand identity. Futschik is apparently doing something universal.” However in terms of cars, “They [cars] are items of thorough right: 2006 was the company’s strongest MacKenzie explained more differences styling and brand perception,” said year, achieving an all time sales record of exist across borders. “White cars only MacKenzie. “It’s just like a fashion busi- 248,080 new vehicles and completing its sell in Los Angeles or the Middle East,” ness, it’s aspirational. Why do people 13th consecutive year of sales growth. he said. “No one buys white cars in want a Benz instead of a Ford? It’s MacKenzie explained that putting a New York or Europe, but if you go to the the same psychology at work. BMW or new car on the market costs between Middle East, you see a lot of white Rolls

Mercedes? Prada or Dolce & Gabbana? $500 million and $1 billion. “It stays on Royces or Maybachs.” GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 25 WWD.COM Round Two for Jennifer Meyer Jewelry By Rachel Brown a circular pendant with a similar formula with her thin, stackable pieces. (Meyer several items, including wears one of the thin rings with a ruby for her daughter.) JENNIFER MEYER IS A DOTING PARENT OF the number 13, a wish- Loyalty to retailers that have supported her line is two babies: three-month-old Ruby, who often bone, a horseshoe and paramount. Meyer remains in a small number of stores, wakes up in the early morning, and Jennifer an elephant. The Star of including Barneys New York, Maxfi eld, Kaviar and Kind, Meyer Jewelry, which at over a year old is David makes an imprint and Holt Renfrew. Sales have quadrupled since Jennifer growing with the launch this month of a full in necklaces, and hearts Meyer Jewelry’s fi rst season in fall 2005, and the line was second collection. are the central element a top seller at Holt Renfrew during the holiday season. Featuring 15 styles, the line introduces of a limited Valentine’s To avoid competing with retailers domestically, Japan customers to different themes, including luck, Day selection that also is and Europe are Meyer’s next retailing frontiers. animals, stars and hearts. Still, a devotee will focused on neck jewelry, Kathy Azarmi Rose, co-owner of Kaviar and Kind in fi nd plenty familiar, as the jewelry continues although there are stud Los Angeles, said the appeal of Meyer’s jewelry is its to concentrate on nature, a motif in which earrings, as well. classic, timeless quality. Meyer succeeded with her signature fern-like Meyer works with “When we saw the stuff, the fi rst reaction that I had is leaf pendant. only 18-karat gold in that I need to have one of each item for myself,” she said. “What do I fi nd that people enjoy buying in white, yellow and rose. Azarmi Rose wore a pearl-encrusted Meyer-designed my collection?” Meyer said she asked herself As her jewelry design- leaf with a diamond branch to her wedding last year in while designing the line. “I really fi nd that ing has matured, pre- Yosemite National Park. animals are something that a lot of cious stones have played The leaf, which took a year to create, about nine people can relate to.” a larger role in pieces, molds and almost all of the several thousand dollars she Even her father, Ron Meyer, with emeralds, diamonds had saved to start her jewelry line, is what has brought president and chief operating of- and rubies among the Meyer the most recognition. Jennifer Aniston wore it in fi cer of Universal Studios, is drawn most widely used. “The Break-Up,” and Meyer gets teary recounting when to animals. He is so fascinated “It was really impor- she saw the movie for the fi rst time. with mythical dragons that he had tant to have it be heavy “You really make this stuff for people to love it,” she a black-and-white one tattooed on Jennifer Meyer and gorgeous gold and said. “When they do, it feels really good.” his back (he also has a tattoo of his for the stones to be Meyer will get more screen time in May when a lock- granddaughter’s name) and encour- A bracelet from Jennifer great,” she said. et of hers appears in “Spider-Man 3,” which stars her aged Jennifer to put dragons in her Meyer’s second collection. Meyer’s high qual- fi ancé, Tobey Maguire. Other than the movie, Meyer has collection. ity standards mean her no promotion planned. Meyer was schooled in enam- jewelry isn’t cheap, retailing from $125 to $11,000. “My company is very manageable right now,” she el jewelry at a young age by her Affordability is a concern, and she is trying to bring said. “I don’t want it to get bigger than me.” grandmother, Edith, who recently down the price a bit by offering stud wishbone ear- Eventually, Meyer expects to expand the company died just before her 87th birthday, rings that she said are for “everyone from my 13- — home decor could be on the horizon. She’s rebuffed and takes fatherly advice seriously: She chose to add a year-old sister” to women her age, 29. investors, but admitted she tells them, “I know where dragon to her jewelry. Meyer researched tattoo maga- Her jewelry company is not guided by an overarch- you are. I’m coming to you when I’m ready.” zines to determine the dragon she wanted — it is sleek ing strategy. “There is really no method to my madness,” After all, Meyer has decided the jewelry business is and small with thin legs, to hang stylishly on a chain. she said. a long-term gig. Elephants and lizards are other members of the ani- However, Meyer carefully complements items that have “It was defi nitely a question for me when I had a mal kingdom that pop up in the latest collection, the lat- sold well to give retailers options. With her hammered baby, because I wondered how I would feel about it,” ter in bracelets and the former on necklaces. To symbol- bangle hoop earrings selling well, she broadened the ham- she said. “But this [jewelry] is my baby, too. This is dif-

PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY ize luck, the line features keys fused with numbers and mered assortment with rings and bracelets and followed ferent, but it’s all mine.” 26 WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

2500 Beaded Antique Embroidery swatches early 1900’s to 1960’s original designs. Neuvo & Deco plus rare 60’s for sale. Mary (212) 719.0881

Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500

Jewelry/Handbag Partner Vintage store seeks jewelry and/or handbag partner with vintage inspired designs. Share rent, promotional costs for long-term commitment. Not inter- ested in consignment. 917-837-3645 NYC

BEADED BRIDAL Custom made beaded bridal gowns. In house design/cut/sew & beaded. MOB etc. Couture Level Only. Call Geri (212) 840-7070

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Nine West Footwear Corporation – a division of Jones Apparel Group, All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. a leader in the Footwear and Apparel industry, is seeking the following Call Sherry 212-719-0622. positions in the Corporate Headquarters in White Plains, NY: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS COSTING MANAGER – NYC ( Job # 2247) Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. DIRECTOR OF MERCHANDISING – APPAREL (Job # 2332)

VISUAL MANAGER – FOOTWEAR ( Job # 2446)

To apply, please visit our website at www.jny.com M/F/D/V An EOE Employer

TRIM ASSISTANT Apparel Company seeks individual to ARCHITECT LAWYER assist in Trim Department. CUSTOMER & SALES A boutique NYC law practice in the PLEASE FAX RESUME: 212-658-9416 fashion / creative industries is seeking bonetti/kozerski studio SERVICE an ASSOCIATE ATTORNEY. 4+ years Immediate opening with prestigious transactional experience in trademark, Seeks Architect for high profile Cosmetic Distributor on the Northern corporate, employment, some litigation, retail projects/rollouts - 5 yrs exp. Bergen / Rockland County border. Re- immigration a plus. Top credentials req’d. sponsibilities include executing sales Contact: [email protected] Please email resume to & marketing programs, sales support [email protected] and order processing and research. Must be hard working, motivated team PR BEAUTY ASSISTANT player who is well organized and com- Full-time PR Beauty Assistant for fast- puter literate. Retail and sales experi- paced boutique pr firm. Must have at ence a plus, knowledge of Microsoft least 2 yrs PR agency exp & be ex- ACCTS PAYABLE Word and Excel a must. Please fax tremely detail-oriented & an efficient your resume to (201) 767- 4371 or email multi-tasker. If beauty is not your pas- travel Midtown apparel co. seeks experienced , to [email protected]. motivated individual for full time sion, please do not apply! I am looking position. Computer literacy and the for those who want to build a career in ability to multitask are required. this field. Send cover letter & resume to: Duties are diverse and detailed in [email protected] nature leading to involvement with both vendors as well as management. careers Please send resume to: [email protected] RETAIL LIAISON DESIGN ASSISTANT Major women’s apparel manufacturer Need talented & dynamic recent grad in Philadelphia area seeks articulate with proficient computer skills in and intelligent individual for retailer Photoshop & Illustrator for ladies better liaison position. Position requires daily BOOKKEEPER sportswear company. Great work interaction with internal sales reps and atmosphere & benefits. Please e-mail buying offices of major dept. and spe- Garment manuf. seeks book keeper resumes to: [email protected] with 3 yrs exp. for A/P and A/R, GL, cialty store retailers. Strong problem Payroll, Collections and charge back. solving and organizational skills required. Must be computer literate. Great Experience as a sales rep or buyer in opportunity! Fax to: 212-382-3623. apparel field preferred. Strong computer skills a must. Excellent benefits, com- petitive salary. Email resumes to: Buyer fi nancial services [email protected] Asst. / Assoc. Buyer Gift Co. seeks Asst./Assoc. Buyer with Designer Our readers live for fashion…but they still need to meet 1-2 years experience in Home Buying. ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Sales Assistant their budgets. Email resume: [email protected] DESIGNER Established, fast-paced private label Major Intimate Apparel Mfr seeks a Fast paced Apparel Company has company is looking for an associate Designer for Girls mass market div. opening for Sales Assistant/Analyst level designer w/ a degree in Fashion Must be creative, motivated, organized with min 5 years exp. Responsibilities Design. Must be able to work & detail oriented. Resp. include: all include order placements, sales analy- independently, possess great follow phases of Private Label & Licensed sis and follow up, communication and CAD ARTIST through skills, and have the ability to line dev/presentations w/Asso. Design- interfacing with retailers, and directly Jr. Clothing Co. seeks a CAD Artist with flat sketch & illustrate. The ideal er and communicating with overseas working with production and design. minimum 2 years experience. Fluency candidate will have experience in office, factories & account. Illustrator Computer literacy and familiarity with in Photoshop/Illustrator, repeats, and both wovens and knits, with a focus exp & computer literatacy a must. Word, Excel, and Access a MUST. tech drawings req’d. Must be organized, on print/embroidery development. Some travel required. Great company Should be inspired, motivated and responsible, and work well in a fast Proficiency in Illustrator and & full benefits. detail-oriented, some domestic travel. Call 1-800-423-3314 or email paced environment. Please Call or E-mail: Photoshop required. Fax: Attn: S. Stevens: (212) 842-4020 E-mail [email protected] fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. 212-719-9793 / [email protected] Fax resume Attn:MAS (212) 302-1856 Email: [email protected] EOE. Fax: 212-842-4050 Attn: HR EOE WWD, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2007 27 WWD.COM Bergdorf’s Fetes Modernized 3rd Floor Fine Dining and Diamonds he swirl of fashion week moved from Bryant Park to Bergdorf TGoodman on Wednesday night, where 300 guests, including top de- At Jewelry.com Duo Launch signers, fashion executives, socialites and customers, toasted the store’s latest achievement — the renovated third floor — which caps seven years of renovations. The jewelry crowd at Michael Kors said the setting has a rare combination of glamour, el- The New York Public Library. egance and modernity. “That’s no easy trick. They did a great job,” Kors said. “I’ve been [selling] on three for 25 years and I’ve seen all the per- mutations. There were some dead spaces before. I don’t see any now. It’s easy-breezy.” With its open fl ow and array of advanced, primarily European collec- tions, as well as some American labels, the 25,000-square-foot third level marks the completion of renovation projects totaling $85 million. So what’s left to do? “We have some small but important projects in the works,” said Jim Gold, Bergdorf ’s president and chief executive of- fi cer. “Our work is never done.”

Susan Sokol, president of Vera Wang, praised the overhaul, too. “See BURKE HEFFNER PHOTOS BY how they’ve made the aisles much wider....This is much more inviting.” Diane Levbarg, executive vice president of Missoni USA, said the “new fl oor draws a ton of people” and that her product had sold out. “I’ve just got to fi gure out how to translate the third-fl oor experience to the Bergdorf Web site,” said Brendan Hoffman, president and ceo of ewelry.com celebrated Neiman Marcus Direct. “Maybe with some videos and interactive win- Jthe launch of its “duo” dows.” collection of two-stone di- Among those who attended were: Roberto Cavalli, Proenza Schouler’s amond jewelry at The New Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, Libertine’s Cindy Greene and York Public Library Monday. Johnson Hartig, Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Thakoon, Behnaz Invoking the divine nature Ofer Azrielant Sarafpour, Doo-Ri Chung, Derek Lam, Sari Gueron, Peter Som, Rachel of diamonds, Jewelry.com chief with Beryl Raff Roy, Matthew Williamson, Thom Browne, Laudomia Pucci, Santiago executive offi cer Ofer Azrielant (right) and Rai Gonzalez, Olivia Chantecaille and Damon Dash. said diamonds were created “to Alexandra. “We can build a beautiful, chic showcase, but at the end of the day, ensure that man would have the it’s all about the products,” Gold said. perfect expression of love to pres- — David Moin ent to his Eve.” And he acknowledged the role of Donna Karan De Beers in making the solitaire diamond the most prominent symbol of love in the past 100 years, fol- Narciso lowed by three-stone diamond jewelry represent- Rodriguez ing “past, present and future.” “In all these...years, two diamonds were over- looked, until tonight,” with the launch of the duo line, he said. “At the end of the day, one is lonely, three’s a crowd, but two is the true essence of ro- mance.” The festive evening was catered by famed chef Daniel Boulud for 150 jewelry industry VIPs and media. Duo includes rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets, priced from $99 to $999. Each piece in the 14-karat white and yellow gold collection is designed to highlight the relationship of the two matched diamonds that rest above and next to each other in clean, contemporary looks. “It’s classic with a simple romantic message that’s never been promoted before,” said Beryl Raff, J.C. Penney’s executive vice president and general merchandise manager of fi ne jewelry. In addition to Penney’s, duo retails at Macy’s, Zales and Friedman’s, among other jewelers and depart- ment stores. It also is sold at jewelry.com, which Susan Sokol connects jewelry shoppers with national, multi- and John Idol Michael Kors and Margherita Missoni channel jewelry retailers. of Michael Kors. Bergdorf’s Linda Fargo. and Jim Gold PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Fast paced Spec Occassion Dress Mfgr SALES PROFESSIONAL SALES ASSISTANT seeks a high energy and motivated Fast paced NYC women’s apparel Well known Gift Co. seeks motivated company seeks a sales assistant to individual to fill an immediate opening. Sales Exec w/min. 5 years experience Opportunity to work in showroom with support sales executive. Responsibilities to maintain existing account structure, include writing orders, filing, sample walk in traffic as well as assigned as well as develop new business. Well accounts. Computer Skills preferred. requests, sending out packages and est’d. contacts w/mass retailers a plus. creating spreadsheets. Indiv must be Send resume and salary history in Salary negotiable, based on experience. confidence to [email protected] detail oriented, able to multi task and 401k plus full benefits. Please E-mail be proficient in Excel and Word. Outerwear Sales Rep - NY PART TIME SALES ASSOCIATE resume to: [email protected] 2 years experience a must. Successful Chinese Co., with 15 years Email resumes to: exporting to US, seeks motivated and [email protected] creative outerwear (leather, fur, etc) Sales Trina Turk is seeking an enthusiastic, friendly and motivated Senior Salespersons Fax to 212-768-3588 Rep in N.Y., NY to develop new accounts. part time sales associate for our Meat Packing District location. A Far East manufacturer seeks senior 5+ years exp. + relationships/contacts Candidate will help grow the Trina Turk business while Director Of Wholesale salespersons specialized in at least one with Dept./Specialty Stores must. Proven building meaningful relationships with clients. International Luxury Fashion Co seeks of the following: a) children’s wear, track record in high sales volume req’d. Director of Wholesale w/min 7 yrs exp b) underwear, c) sportswear. Must have Freelance; Commission. E-mail info to: REQUIREMENTS dealing with major department store solid retail relationship, excellent [email protected] accounts. Candidate must have good communication and follow-up skills. Sales Executive Candidates must love to sell, have an established client relationships with dept store contacts, Please e-mail resumes to: Bulga, a Luxury Brand, is looking for book, love fashion, enjoy building relationships with clients as well as an understanding of luxury [email protected] an experienced high achiever to open and provide superior customer service. You will not find a and contemporary retailers. You must new accounts and develop existing possess strong leadership, presenta- customer base. Exp w/ specialty stores. better working environment in boutique sales! We provide tion, communication and management Store contacts a plus and excellent competitive compensation and benefits. skills. Must be efficient with retail Showroom Sales communication skills. Some travel req’d. projections. A team player is essential. NY showroom of mfr in China seeks Excellent opportunity for growth. Please e-mail/fax your resume to [email protected] Competitive salary and benefits. an aggressive, exp’d indiv to sell Please send resume w/ salary history: or 212-366-5056 (fax) No phone calls please. Please email resume and cover letter to: moderate jr/missy sweater. Fax: 212- Fax: 646-473-1638 [email protected] 704-0182 [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]