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wide accommodationandtraveladvice. TerminalInternational Arrivals, 1; .au; 10pm) Sydney-centric informationandaccommodation. 10pm) Sydney-centric Town Hall Sts); Alfred 5pm winter,10am-6pmsummer) bourside bushland withmagical walking This parkprotects scattered pockets of har- SYDNEY HARBOUR NATIONAL PARK mans Beach try pp76–7) Bay Phillip first landed, andtheshark-netted a photogenic swimmingbeach where Arthur the southshore is the frenzied foamof theoceanbeaches. On generally sheltered, calmcoves withlittleof atmosphere.cottage The South Head’s harbourside,fostering asalty pp76–7). Head North playground andamajor port. peted byweekend yachts, it’sboththecity’s of urban life. byferries Crisscrossed andcar- parks providing crucial relief fromtheordeals beaches, coves, bays,islandsandwaterside Jackson) isSydney’sshimmering soul,its Parramatta River, SydneyHarbour (akaPort Stretching 20kminlandtothemouthof the Sydney Harbour SIGHTS InformationService Travellers’ InformationService Tourist NSW Tourism Centres Sydney Visitor City HostInformationKiosks Tourist Information mail. identificationtocollect 10am-2pmSat)Bring Mon-Fri, St; www.auspost.com.au; 310George Service Restante Poste tickets, public transport informationandmaps. publictransport tickets, coach busy officehandlingaccommodationbookings, Coach Terminal, EddyAve; % & PlayfairSts; % acts asanaccommodationagency. acts Wheat Rd; pp78-9; Forming thegateway totheharbour are (Map pp76–7 ). Onthe NorthShore (Map h 9281 9366;[email protected];Sydney 9240 8788;www.sydneyvisitorcentre.com; cnrArgyle % 9am-5pm Mon-Fri); 9am-5pm Mon-Fri); (cnr Druitt & George Sts) (cnrDruitt&George h Martin Place Watsons Bay 9240 8788;www.sydneyvisitorcentre.com; 33 (Map pp76–7 and h Manly Cove Manly 9.30am-5.30pm) Supercomprehensive; also

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SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY Utzon’s competition-winning1956designis every tour can visit every theatre tourcanvisit every every ,butyou’re of tobackstage. Duetorehearsals, house’ not Australian Ballet dancers.Australian Ballet accompaniment) andintroductory balletwith (orchestral rhymeandpicture-book nursery PromsOrchestradrama includingtheBabies’ programme features kids’music,danceand is available free inside. TheKidsAtHouse Diary ket ontheconcourse. Thebimonthly bition Hall and anartsy-craftsySundayMar- available onshortnotice. There’s alsoanExhi- quickly, but‘partialview’tickets are often like thebellyof out awhale. sell Mostevents acoustics are superb,theinternal aesthetics Studioforemergingleft-of-centre artists.The concerts, operaandtheatre plusthe events, organ’s 10,500pipeshumming. $40 milliontorunandkeep theConcertHall fourhundredsand costover annualevents Swedish tiles(1,056,000of them).Twothou- roofThe 67m-high features 27,230tonnesof finallyopened in1973. lays, theOperaHouse of andde- egoclashes,technical difficulties started in1959,andafter atumultuoustirade Quay ishardtobeat. angle, buttheferry viewapproaching Circular turtles. It’sarchitecturally orgasmic fromany congressto a‘nun’sscrum’andthesexual of and Mayan likened temples, andpoetically snails,palmfrondsfrom orange segments, tohave It’smused tial sight. drawninspiration Australia’s mostrecognisable iconandessen- Bennelong Pt,CircularQuayE) pp78-9; (Map with admirationforthe famousarchitectSo said LouisKahn, aghast was untilitreflected thisbuilding.’ off ‘The sundidnotknowhowbeautifulitslight Sydney OperaHouse 54 call good, butsome areas require assistance; staff access. wheelchair themknow inadvance if yourequireearly. Let more ifyouarrive everything likely tosee $23/16; check before youbook. five aren’t admitted tomostperformances,so h Disabled accesstothe Disabled Opera House yourticketsGet atthe There are fourmainauditoriumsfordance, The predicted four-year construction 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 2hrs pre-show Sun) 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat,2hrspre-show % YNY • ihs SYDNEY ••Sights details forthcomingperformances and details h 9250 7250 for details. Public transport 9250 7250for details. 1hr tours9am-5pm) % 9250 7111; www.sydneyoperahouse.com; 9250 7111;www.sydneyoperahouse.com; tours

( % . Danish architect Jørn take youfrom‘front box office box 9250 7250;adult/concession Sydney OperaHouse theatres ispretty

. Kidsunder ( % 9250 7777; Events (Map pp78–9 ), Australia’s oldest church it is livestock. Overlooking colonial homes. is Millers Point,arelaxed districtof early impressive tunnelexcavated byconvicts, inhabitants. of people,The Rocks’original theCadigal and provides intothe lives a sensitive insight intoartefact-soakeddigs deep Rocks history La;admissionfree; museum.com; 2-8Kendall pp78-9; (Map Market Further alongGeorge Stistheweekend verted intoahomeforretired captains. sea criminals here inthe1840s;itwaslater con- ernment coxswain. Water police detained wasgov-(1816). Namesake John Cadman 10am-4.30pmSat&Sun) 4.30pm Mon-Fri, .nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; St; 110George now prevail. key andOperaHouse rings koalas stuffed trap. Kitsch cafésandtouristshops hocking the area ‘oldeworlde’tourist intoasanitised, saved alotof oldbuildingsbuthasturned Theensuingredevelopmentognised. has cultural andarchitectural heritage wasrec- ern approach. streets underthebridge’s disappearing south- furtherdemolition,entirethe ’20sbrought cline. Constructionof theHarbour Bridge in plague outbreak in1900continuedthede- Circular Quayinthelate 1800s.Abubonic left maritime hubuntilshipping services in countless harbourside pubs. rapscallions boozedandbrawledshamelessly and drunken lawlessness.Sailors, whalers and leyways festered prostitution withdisease, once sloshed opensewers andal- through its squalid,overcrowded origins.Residents unrecognisablythe Rocks,hasevolved from The site of Sydney’sfirst Europeansettlement, The Rocks but ifyou’re drivingthere’s a to CircularQuayisthebestwayget here, a buriedbeach, isSydney’soldesthouse any Australian has the legal right tograzeany Australian hasthelegal right is anEnglish-style village green onwhich 1.00am) St;nightlyrate$25; 7599; enterviaMacquarie The excellentnew Cottage Cadman’s The Rocksremained acommercialand Beyond the Beyond It wasn’tuntilthe1970sthatTheRocks’ underthebuilding. ( p103 ). % Argyle Cut Cut Argyle 1800 067676;www.rocksdiscovery Argyle Place Argyle

Mp pp78-9 ; (Map Rocks Discovery Museum Rocks Discovery Mp p7– , an pp78–9), (Map (Map pp78–9 ) % lonelyplanet.com car park Garrison Church Garrison 9247 5033;www h , builton h h 10am-5pm)

( % 9.30am- 6.30am- Rocks 9247

great arconaBridgeClimb ( p68 ). idly emerging fromprolonged decay.Walsh tion of alternative Archibald Prizeentries. including theannual h Gallery SHErvin buildingnearby,the hospital the oldmilitary cost $15/12/40);bookingsare required. In Viewings(ticketsNight foradult/child/family bition. Squintatgalaxiesfar,farawayduring and aninteractive Australianastronomyexhi- 11am,noon,2.30pm&3.30pmSatSun) & 3.30pmMon-Fri, 3-D 5pm) WatsonRd;admissionfree; observatory.com.au; Observatory tralia’s oldestpub. pp78–9 ) jostleforsupreme respect asAus- Hotel andthe (1848). NearbytheLordNelsonBrewery lonelyplanet.com is Sydney’s public transport hub, with ferry Circular Quay, builtaroundSydney Cove, Circular Quay adult/concession $8/3; pp78-9 ; (Map the southeastern pylon tothe alongthewestern side.wheels Youcanclimb ning thelengthof theeastern side. Acycleway from bothshores leading toafootpathrun- climb uptothebridge car ortrain.Staircases foot –don’texpectmuch of aviewcrossingby to payitoff. a costof $20million,thecitytook60years of itsnarrowest points.Completed in1932at business district,spanningtheharbour atone bridge linkstheCBDwithNorthSydney in thecornerof youreyeandget The afright! moving around Sydneyyou’llcatchof sight it ‘old coathanger’, it’saspookilybigobject – Sydneysiders adore theirbridge. Dubbedthe underit, it, rollerbladingacrossitorsailing Whether they’re drivingover it,climbing up Sydney HarbourBridge ( p101 ) isacross theroad. Company. Theimpressive SydneyTheatre ( Company, Theatre Company( p101 Dance ), Bangarra therenowned Pier4houses SydneyBay’s .nationaltrust.org.au/ervin.html; WatsonRd;adult/child$6/4 .nationaltrust.org.au/ervin.html; ATYP; Map pp78–9 ) andSydneyDance The 1850s,copper-domed, Italianate The bestwaytoexperiencethebridge ison The wharves aroundDawesPoint are rap- The wharves

11am-5pm Tue-Sun) Space Theatre sits atop Observatory Park. Insidethere’s sitsatopObservatory a

% Australian Theatre forYoungPeople Theatre Australian Mp pp78-9; (Map 9240 1100;www.pylonlookout.com.au; Mp pp78-9; (Map

SYDNEY••Sights (adult/child/family $6/4/16; Hero of Waterloo Hotel Hero ofWaterloo h exhibitsAustralianart, 10am-5pm) Salon desSalon Refusés % % 9217 0485;www.sydney 9258 0173;www.nsw , orascendthe Pylon Lookout h h collec- (Map Sydney 2.30pm 10am-

foyer isageeky (butundeniably impressive) Library.Undertheglass floorofHouse the Jan) adult/child/family $8/4/17 9 ; nearby, the in thenascentcolony. etched tovarious points withroaddistances flagship, HMS ing acannonandanchor fromtheFirst Fleet pp78–9 ) aleafypublicsquare proudlydisplay- tus andBridge Stsis towards thecitycentre. Atthecornerof Lof- Narrow lanesleadsouthfromCircular Quay Macquarie PlaceArea disturbing. your-face, explicitandprofoundly sexually overseas range fromincredibly hiptoin- controversial exhibitionsfromAustralia and chaneyebrows since1991.Itsconstantly ging, themostopen-mindedSydneyraising even ArtDecobuildingandhasbeena stately h St;admissionfree;2400; www.mca.com.au; 140George Always challenging, the MUSEUM OFCONTEMPORARY ART Sydney onthetopfloor( lunch uptoCafé withaview,take theelevator 1:500 modelof Sydney.Ifyoufeel like astylish 11am-4pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, 10am-midnightSat,noon-5pm Sun;library10am-7pm Fri, /library; 31Alfred St;admissionfree; pp78-9; (Map renovations, thecavernous 1885 of unpredictable merit. restaurants,standing fisherfolk andbuskers with harbourwalkways,grassyverges, out- daysit’smorethese of arecreational space, Circular QuaywasalsoSydney’sport,but the harbournearWharf6.Formanyyears Stream, which nowtricklesunderground into grewEuropean settlement aroundtheTank Passenger TerminalOverseas andthequays, busstops,atrainstation % engaging This thoroughly MUSEUM OFSYDNEY ney’s most heinouscrimes. mugshots andforensic from Syd- evidence exhibits of confiscated weapons, butt-ugly % Emerging phoenix-like fromextensive Inside theoldWater (1858) PoliceStation zoomsinondisreputable activities,with 10am-5pm) 9251 5988; www.hht.net.au; cnr Bridge & Phillip Sts; 9251 5988; www.hht.net.au; cnrBridge 9252 1144; www.hht.net.au; cnr Albert &PhillipSts; 9252 1144;www.hht.net.au; cnrAlbert % Justice & Police Museum Justice &PoliceMuseum fronts CircularQuayWestin 9242 8555;www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov Sirius, h andan1818obelisk Macquarie Place Macquarie 10am-5pm Sat&Sun,daily in houses theCustoms houses MCA % h museum . (Map pp78–9 ). (Map (Map pp78-9 ; 9251 8683). 8am-midnight Mon- Customs House Customs

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SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY ber roomandconcert hallinsidematch the George andDruittSts.Theelaborate cham- a few blockssouthof here onthecornerof the skateboarders onweekends. alosingbattleagainst guardsfight Security plenty of placestositandwatch thecrowds. phitheatre forlunchtime entertainmentand memorating Australia’swardead, anam- There’s PostOffice. com- General acenotaph cial buildingsandtheVictoriancolonnaded to George finan- St,linedbymonumental pedestrian mallextends fromMacquarie St Place ( p58). a lofty cityview,take atripupSydneyTower oped, graduallyshifting thecity’sfocus.For end, butthesouthernendisbeing redevel- The businesshubistowardsthenorthern inthesouth. Station in thenorthtoCentral SydneystretchesCentral fromCircularQuay City Centre damn finecaféon-site. There’s installations. alsoa state-of-the-art whispers, arguments, gossip,artefacts and cluding pre-1788) comestolife here through (1788).Thecity’searlyhistory(in- House first (andinfamouslypungent) Government of Macquarie Place,onthesite of Sydney’s adult/child/family $10/5/20 56 a close second is the entirely second over-the-topa close most sumptuous shopping complex. Running Victoria Building( Queen p103 ) isSydney’s up anentire city block, thehigh-Victorian oldest cathedral. NexttoSt Andrew’s, taking time,isAustralia’sbuilt aroundthe same Anglican fabulously ornate exterior. Nextdoor,the Sydney’s 1874 Sydney lacksatrueciviccentre, but The Historic HousesTrust’s The Historic DISCOUNT SYDNEYSIGHTSEEING online orattheSydneyVisitor Centres ( p52 ). includedforadult$159/205/275,child$85/109/175.Cards arewith publictransport available adult $65/119/149/209,child$45/65/79/139.The two/three/seven-day cardsare alsoavailable museums, historicbuildingsandwildlife parks. Pricesforone/two/three/seven-day cardsare includingsightseeingtours,harbourcruises,admission toawiderangeofSydney’sattractions four ormore cash. oftheseandyou’llsave yourselfsomehard-earned & PoliceMuseum( p55 ), MuseumofSydney( p55 area, includingVaucluse ) andHydeParkHouse ( BarracksMuseum( p61 p58 ), Government House( p58 ). Visit ), ElizabethBayHouse( adult/child/family $30/15/60) p60 ), Justice (Map pp78–9 Thisgrand ) comesclose. YNY • ihs SYDNEY ••Sights Alternatively, the St Andrew’s Cathedral St Andrew’s TownHall See Sydney&BeyondCard h getsyouintoall11oftheHHT’shousesandmuseumsinSydney 9.30am-5pm) (Map pp78–9 ) is Ticket Through Time (Map pp78–9 ), is east Martin Martin ( % forget –below the flocks the harbour itself for when you’re Don’t allmuseumed-out. gerous array of cafés,bars andrestaurants Wharf CockleBay Wharf Harbourside Shopping Centre. Thesnazzy of outlets andtheoverrated harbour cruise are somegreat aplethora and sights, museums flyovers, sculptures fountains, andsailcloth It YourWay!’ leisurely industry:‘ Darling Harbour –Play spielpromotes days,theofficial moreThese with factories,warehouses andshipyards. western edge wasonceindustrialdocklands onthecity’s tourist parkliningCockleBay This rambling,purpose-built, waterfront Darling Harbour not ahallucinogenic effect). breathing is paperdragonsafter eatingthese ice-creamsesame burgers jaunty,fire- (seeing fromgood-lucktokenseverything toblack- selling accompaniedmusiciansand stalls itally February –streets throngwithsideshows,dig- NewYearduring Chinese inlate January/early berserk around DixonSt.Chinatowngoes shops andaroma-filledtaurants, alleyways Chinatown Spanish Quarter (Map pp78–9 ) andthriving tre southwestern zoneare Sydney’steensy is worthwhile. 1929. Even attheglittering aquickpeek foyer adult/child $12/8; % tours of thelavish and George St. Strand Arcade( p103 PittStMall) between ( % Breathing life intothecity’slacklus- There are 45-minute groupandself-guided Dotted an architectural between spoilof 8239 2288; www.hht.net.au/visit/admission_prices; 8239 2288;www.hht.net.au/visit/admission_prices; 9373 6862; www.statetheatre.com.au; 49 Market St; 9373 6862;www.statetheatre.com.au; 49Market 1300 661711;www.seesydneycard.com) (Map pp78–9 ) precincts adan- contain (Map pp78–9 nestof), atight res- h (Map pp78–9 ) and 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) State Theatre State lonelyplanet.com

Mp pp78-9; (Map King Street Street King , builtin offers water glass tubesatthisever-popular under-Visitors through wandergoggle-eyed SYDNEY AQUARIUM train ple-mover and theSydneyExplorer bus.Adinky by ferry, Monorail,Metro (MLR) Rail Light h 8694; www.starcity.com.au;80PyrmontSt,Pyrmont; bigger fish, Fish Market ( right ) andtheplaygroundof leads youintoPyrmont,homeof theSydney 9 ), theworld’sfirst electricswingbridge, unflappably calm. of touristsandbelligerent itremains ibises, lonelyplanet.com ney’s defunct tramnetwork. High-voltage forSyd- away insidethe former powerstation ditional costs forspecialexhibits; St, Ultimo;standard exhibitsadult/child/family $10/5/25,ad- % This hipandprogressive POWERHOUSE MUSEUM front. Regularguided tours are available. butnotto the boatsmooredmuseum, outthe There’s accesstothe the salt… gooddisabled culture and theNavy. You canalmosttaste tions range fromAboriginal tosurf canoes inextricable relationship Exhibi- withthesea. from $10/6/20; St;admissionfree, specialexhibits adult/child/family 2 Murray museum anUtzon-like roof,Beneath thisthematic MARITIME MUSEUM AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL ciate thepipedindigestive whalemusic. Arrive earlyto beatthecrowdsandfullyappre- fairy penguinsintheSouthernOceans section. Southern andNorthernRivers exhibits,andthe andcrocodilesatthe exhibit,platypuses Reef the Van colours Gogh of theGreat Barrier intheothertwo.rine life andseals Don’tmiss humungous fish inone;SydneyHarbour ma- are sharks,raysand moored intheharbour: of Australianmarinelife. Three ‘oceanariums’ 10pm; lastadmission9pm) Pier;.au; Aquarium adult/child/family$27/14/65; pp78-9; (Map val happensinJune. cinema. Thefree DarlingHarbour Jazz Festi- nexttotheImax is underneaththehighway, thevisitorsconnects thesights; centre ( p52 ) Darling Harbour andPyrmontare serviced A strollacross 24hr) 9217 0100; www.powerhousemuseum.com; 500 Harris 500Harris 9217 0100; www.powerhousemuseum.com; .

Mp pp78-9; (Map h % Star CityCasino

9.30am-5pm) 8251 7800;www.sydneyaquarium.com (adult/child $3.50/2.50; SYDNEY••Sights Pyrmont Bridge % , celebrating the richness , celebratingtherichness 9298 3777;www.anmm.gov.au; examinesAustralia’s h museum

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theMLR stopsoutside. wattle Bay; Market iswestof DarlingHarbour onBlack- enjoy thestinkypiscatorialaction. TheFish buildings were commissionedbyLachlan Park Many totheOperaHouse. of these quarie St,defining thecity’sedge fromHyde A cropof earlypublicbuildingsgraces Mac- Macquarie StreetArea atthe ing classes also bookyourself inforregularcook- seafood Tour auctions ortake abehind-the-scenes Arrive earlytocheck outtheearlymorning centre, sushibar,oyster aflorist. bar,even are plentyof fishyrestaurants, adeli,wine rainbow troutandfatslabsof There salmon. bugs,lobsters,crabs, Balmain oysters, mullet, locals andoverfed over haggle seagulls mud Sydneysiders. Chefs, still-thrashing sub-sea introduce yourselftoabewilderingarrayof Rd &BankSt,Pyrmont; cnrPyrmontBridge 1122; www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au; ous, multicultural hereshipped through annually,thiscavern- With over 15 millionkilogramsof seafood SYDNEY FISHMARKET TeahouseChinese bythelotuspond. and paths. Savour sometea andcake atthe garden interweaves pavilions, waterfalls, lakes city) forAustralia’s1988bicentenary, the by architects fromGuangzhou(Sydney’ssister hecticDarlingHarbour.otherwise Designed h 6863; www.chinesegarden.com.au;adult/child/family$6/3/15; Yin and Yang, these Built accordingtothebalancedprinciplesof CHINESE GARDENOFFRIENDSHIP also get thehands-ontreatment. arts, socialhistoryandeclecticexhibitions magnets grab andenginesgrowl.Decorative strikes,with thelowdownonhowlightning interactive demonstrationswowschool groups church, built in1819,and the James Church Square atHyde Park’s northern end: way tohelp realise hisplans. He enlisted convictarchitect Francis Green- vision of Sydneybeyonditsconvictorigins. Macquarie, the first NSWgovernor to have a required, You can shoes. butwear closed-toe 1111; classesfrom$75) Two Greenway gems frontontoQueens 9.30am-5pm)

($20; h (Map pp78–9 ), Sydney’soldest 7-8.30am Thu) are anoasisof tranquillityinthe , orjustwanderaroundand Sydney Seafood School Sydney Seafood h fish market gardens 7am-4pm) – reservations aren’t –reservations Mp pp78-9; (Map Hyde Park Barracks

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57 St SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY in 1819.Thebarracksfunctionedasconvict h of NSW available bypriorarrangement. accessis bookings andtimes).Wheelchair liament sits,ortake aguidedtour(callfor representatives outdoeach otherwhenpar- on therumtrade. Youcanwatch theelected merchants in1816return foramonopoly which wasbuiltbytwoSydney Rum Hospital, Fri) .parliament.nsw.gov.au; admissionfree; Parliament House www.hht.net.au; admissionfree; of thetwin1816 verandas, formalcolonnadesandochre tones convictlife.tion –awindowintoeveryday courts (1887 immigrant depot(1848 quarters forAnglo-Irish sinners (1819 adult/child/family $10/5/20; Museum 58 five milliontomes,thesmallestbeingatablet- buildings,originallywingsof theinfamous Next toParliament the House, Further downMacquarie Stare thedeep .skywalk.com.au; adult/child$129/95; .skywalk.com.au; unbeatable. Feeling brave? Fulfil yourLuke fantasiesona Skywalker 360-degree 250m-highviews totheBlueMountains,BotanyBay,harbourandPacific are $23.50/14; Point lent rail andstep ontotwoglass-floored outdoorplatforms,260mabove thestreet. There are twoexcel- The viewisthebestwaytounderstand theland. Sydney isgeographicallybefuddling– abirds-eye THE BESTVIEWSINTOWN its classicicons;it’sapretty spot,especiallyatnight. toimpressyou’re someone,trythese classyrestaurants looking withsassyviews: the Near Kings Cross, the northern endofVictoria Stin Cross,thenorthern Near Kings Shore, the North 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pmSat&Sun) 9am-6pm Mon-Fri,

YNY • ihs SYDNEY ••Sights The Wharf Summit One Forty Bondi Social Fri, dinnerMon-Sat) Fri, dinner daily) Picture-postcard views,sexy staffand magical ModOz. On amore terrestrial level, packapicnicandcheckoutthepanoramasfrom Sydney’s stupendous setting also offers some kickin’ combinationsof vistasandvictuals. IfSydney’s stupendous settingalsooffers somekickin’ dinner daily)

BridgeClimb Harbour Bridge revolving restaurants Mp pp78-9; (Map

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Mp pp78-9; (Map

Mp p87; (Map Mint Mint % (p68). Blues PointReserve % Luxury dining;harbour sights andlights. h 9273 1414;www.sl.nsw.gov.au;

is theobviousvantagepoint:climbup tothe

% Mp pp78-9; (Map (Map pp78-9 ; pp78-9 ; (Map 8239 2311;www.hht.net.au;  h % 9.30am-5pm) 86) andgovernment 9250 1761; Pier 4, Hickson Rd,WalshBay; mains$27-35; 9250 1761; Pier 4,Hickson % % isaboutashighSydneysidersget withoutwingsordrugs–the 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) 9247 9777; 47th fl, Australia Sq, 264 George St;mains$32-39; 9247 9777; 47th fl,AustraliaSq,264 George here, after yourwalksitandspinabove thetwinklingharbourcity. % 9365 1788;1stfl,38Campbell Pde,Bondi;mains$10-26; 9221 2500;42ndfl,Chifley Tower,2ChifleySq;mainsfrom$39; h 9230 2111;www h 9am-5pm Mon- % % holdsover State Library Library State , alsobuilt 9am-10pm) 8239 2288; 9333 9222; www.sydneytoweroztrek.com.au; 100 Market St;adult/child 100Market 9333 9222;www.sydneytoweroztrek.com.au;  and 48), an and Bradleys Head –donaspiffy‘skysuit’,shackleyourself tothesafety First droppedanchor. Fleet There are excellent 5pm) $10/5/20, additionalcostsforspecialexhibits; .net.au; 6-8CollegeSt;standardexhibitsadult/child/family tory museum Not farfromMacquarie St,this AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM thefussyfurnishings. can tourthrough Unless there’s happening, you anofficialevent Macquarie Gardens. StintheRoyalBotanic grounds to4pmdaily,45mintoursfrom10.30am) 5222; www.hht.net.au;admissionfree; Revival ofbecause theproject’s extravagance. governor before wasfinished,partly thehouse Government Macquarie House. wasusurpedas quarters forMacquarie’s planned and servants’ wastheGreenway-designed details) stables atorium of Music(see p99 formusicalrecital Sat &Sun) bitions inits sized Potts Point At thetopof Bridge St,theSydneyConserv- Built between 1837and1845,theGothic Built between was established just40years wasestablished after the Lord’s Prayer, Observatory Hill Observatory . Disabled accessisexcellent. . Disabled are acoupleoftastyvantage points. Government House Government

Mp pp78-9; (Map galleries galleries opensouttothecityscapeand Pylon Lookout Skywalk andhostsinnovative exhi- ( h h % in Millers Point.On inMillers lunch &dinner Mon-Sat) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm 11am-5pm 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, h

( 9320 6000;www.amonline % h

Mp pp78-9; (Map Mrs Macquaries lunch Fri-Sun, lunch Fri-Sun, h 9333 9200;www lunch Sun-Fri, lunch Sun-Fri, h lonelyplanet.com (p55) 10am-3pm Fri-Sun, 10am-3pm Fri-Sun, lunch Tue- natural his-

h or take is just off is justoff % 9.30am- 9931

gregarious roleinSydneysociety.Highlights costs for touring exhibitions; costs fortouring Rd,TheDomain;admissionfree, varied Gallery .nsw.gov.au; Art Wed, free guidedtours1pm) bringing outtheartcriticineveryone. portraits of thefamousandnot-so-famous cussed Archibald Prizeexhibitshere annually– exhibitions. Thecontroversial, much-dis- and Asian art,andblockbuster international riginal art,15th-to19th-centuryEuropean 19th- and20th-centuryAustralianart,Abo- permanentdisplaysofinclude outstanding The Art GalleryofNewSouthWales There’s access. excellentwheelchair &Discoverthe Skeleton andSearch Galleries. on Sundays(callfortimes).Kidsget busyin guided tours andindigenous performances Aboriginal andnative wildlife exhibitions,self- lonelyplanet.com area linking theRBG andHyde Park, pre- The Other Parks &Gardens ing foxes bats isamisnomer –they’re grey-headed fly- keep hangingaround.Actually, callingthem (they destroythe vegetation), but theyjust Management periodically triestooustthebats swooping batcolony (amurderof bats?). (adult/child $4.20/2.20; garden, theglasspyramidat South Pacific plantcollection,thepricklyarid if you’ve outdoneyourself. acircuit Gardens Shop. Atracklesstraindoes 8134; $20perperson; & 1pmMon-Fri) lawns’. Take a the trees, tothebirdsandpicnicon the talk We alsoinvite hug youtosmellthe roses, is relaxed walkonthegrass. ‘Please –signssay, the colony’svegetable patch. Theattitudehere free; 8111; www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au; Rd;admission MrsMacquaries The Royal BotanicGardens ally impaired. accessisgood. Wheelchair andprogrammesforthedeafvisu- talks also concerts,screenings, courses, celebrity guided tours withcostumedactors). There are gramme (workshops, performancesand Kids swarmtoGalleryKidsSundaypro- Highlights include the rose garden,the includetherose Highlights Most RBG paths are accessible. wheelchair h Royal BotanicGardens Domain gallery 7am-sunset) (Pteropus policephalus) (Pteropus Mp pp78-9; (Map (Map pp78-9 ) isthelarge grassy , or free guidedwalk free Aboriginal Heritage Tour Heritage Aboriginal SYDNEY••Sights h were in1816as established h 2pm Fri) playsaprominentand h 10am-4pm) %

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until 2000. 1833, butthemassive spires weren’t finished washeldhere in the east.Thefirst service ney Cricket Ground(SCG). andtheSyd- ment Quarter, AussieStadium golf course, Fox FilmStudios,theEntertain- Park sportspitches, apublic andcontains books. ing undertrees buriedin withtheirnoses rollerblading, horseriding ( p65 ) andrelax- folks walking,kickingballsaround, cycling, p84 filledwith ), agrassy220-hectare expanse required access. forwheelchair ditions andhistoryinAustralia. Noticeis noon Tue &Thu) synagogue.org.au; 187aElizabethSt;adult/child$5/3; Synagogue from9amSat) Sun-Fri, Rd;admissionfree; lege St&Marys gathered atGallipoli. The pinesneartheentrancegrew fromseeds inWWI. 120,000 NSWcitizenswhoserved foreachdome isstuddedwithonestar of the .com.au; admissionfree; Memorial and giantchessboard orcheck outthe around thegrandavenue of trees, fountains the colony’sracetrackandcricket pitch. Swan the formal opinions. hippies andacademicsexpress theirearnest nutters, politicalextremists, homophobes, front of theartgallery–religious zealots, Corner Speakers’ Christmas. The unfailinglyeccentricevery byCandlelight summer concertsandCarols Wales ( left ) ishere, andthelawnshostfree recreation. TheArtGalleryof NewSouth by Governor Phillipserved in1788forpublic Coca-Cola sign (asmuch aSydney icon as aboveRiding high the CBDunderthe big Kings Cross tours.Aussie Stadium runs child/family $25/15/60; ( pp78-9; a video presentation onJewisha videopresentation beliefs,tra- artefacts and Museum’s the AMRosenblum % On theothersideof HydePark, the Moe Park Moore Sydney’s biggest parkis A Gothicmegalith, On theeastern edge of thecitycentre is 1300 724 737; www.sydneycricketground.com.au; adult/ 1300 724737;www.sydneycricketground.com.au;

1½-hour behind-the-scenes SCGand %

9220 0400;www.sydney.catholic.org.au; cnrCol-

Mp pp78-9; (Map Mp pp78-9; (Map Hyde Park dates from1878.Tours include (Map p84 ) abuts Centennial ( h overlooks HydePark from h h noon-4pm Sun) 10am & 1pm Mon-Fri, 10am Sat) 10am &1pmMon-Fri, ( % 9am-5pm) St Mary’s Cathedral St Mary’s % Map Map pp78-9 9267 7668;www.rslnsw Centennial Park Centennial 9267 2477;www.great Sportspace Tours Sportspace h . Theinterior transpires in ), originally 6.45am-6.30pm h (Map Anzac Great Great

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SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY decadent nucleus. city, or jump on a train. The buses 323-7, 324-5 323-7,324-5 city, orjumponatrain.Thebuses ( deWheels Café p93 ) restaurants. Theinfamouslylowbrow Harry’s the wharf(Map p82 somebrilliant ) contains days–thepubsarepugilistic these relaxed and drunk sailors. Thingsare begrudginglyless was onceaslumfullof drunks,sailors, and McElhone Stairs (Map p82 ) fromTheCross, ‘o’s, eight lights. areand stairwell timelessarchitectural de- h .net.au; 7OnslowAve, ElizabethBay;adult/chid/family $8/4/17; Elizabeth BayHouse 1835and1839,theneoclassical Built between andflats. Edwardian andArtDecohouses (Map p82 Victorian, ) feature well-preserved bouring The Cross withatideof bawdydebauchery. Vietnam War,whenAmericansailors flooded urb’s reputation forvicecongealed duringthe element moved induringthe1930s.Thesub- bohemian up inthe1840s;awine-stained mostly grandestates. Terrace sprung houses boring. it’s never Darlinghurst Rdpromotes pity.Eitherway, has asideshowappeal;sometimeswalkingup nary thanreal. Sometimestherazzle-dazzle of menaceismorebut thevaguesense imagi- The Crossretains asleazy,cannibalistic aura, rants, funkybars andgorgeous guesthouses. packer hostels bangheadswithclassyrestau- touristshops andback- Stripjoints, tacky evil. populated dichotomydensely of goodand Hollywoodsign),‘TheCross’ isabizarre,LA’s 60 Centennial Park, Centennial continuing to BondiJunction. ruary. Gras ( p69 here) gyrates through Feb- every Mardimunity. TheSydney Gay&Lesbian ance largely toSydney’s gaycom- attributable cafés, bars andclubsthatexudes aflamboy- OxfordStreet The spirited backbone of is theInner East Inner East here.and 333fromthecityalsopassthrough ments encircleit,buttheexquisite oval salon the colony.Horrendous 20th-centuryapart- late-night pieandmash. late-night Oxford St runsall thewayfrom Hyde Park to It’s a15-minute walktoTheCrossfromthe The gracioustree-lined streets of neigh- Probably theonlywordinworld with In theearly19thcentury,KingsCrosswas 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) YNY • ihs SYDNEY ••Sights Taylor Square Potts Woolloomooloo (Map

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and frequency. dling andsuicideleapstranspire withsimilar Tracking southfrom here alongthemajestic 381 fromBondiJunction toget to theBondi. Aboriginal wordforthesound of thesurf. Golf Club–thename‘Bondi’derives froman north of attheBondi thebeach nearthecliffs some Eora Sunday’s BondiMarkets ( p103 ), andthere are (Map p87 ) andHall St(Map p87 Pde backfromthebeach alongCampbell set ). Nearbyis iously went home,workingtravellers andthe whoneverwool Aussies, NewZealanders other Europeancommunities,dyed-in-the- atmosphere duetoitsmixof oldJewish and hasaunique tumble swim.Thesuburbitself crowded) waves andisgreat ‘n’ forarough city centre, hasconsistently good(though oceanbeach It’stheclosest tothe as sand. swells, andallpeopleare equal,asdemocratic collide, thePacific arrives ingreat foaming of theworld’sgreat beaches –oceanandland Definitively Sydney, Eastern Beaches the bestviews. ontheleftheadingeasttosnareGrab aseat SuburbsviaKingsCross. theEastern service ninsula suburb West of thecentre pe- isthehiggledy-piggledy Inner West text ( p63 ). boxed Beaches the Sydney’sBest see tails Bronte Bondi toCoogee Buses 324and325fromCircularQuay Buses Catch bus 380,389,L82fromthecityor Catch Most of thepubs,bars andrestaurants are

Darling ItHurts, Cronulla , good-looking. Clovelly Aboriginal rockengravings Aboriginal are further southagain.

and Clifftop Trail Clifftop Balmain brilliantAussie songwriter Coogee Bondi (Map pp76–7 ). Oncea ( p66 ) are beaches. (Map p87 ) isone (Map p87 ) Tamarama Maroubra Maroubra

For de- ser- 61

, SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY fice centre withlittletotempt thetraveller. is respectively. of the Governor andPrimeMinister General McMahons Point McMahons is On thenorthernsideof theHarbour Bridge North Shore Leichhardt. from CircularQuayservice style. Bus413fromWynyard, or435 andslickMediterraneanplace forpizza,pasta with studentsandyuppies.Norton Stisthe Leichhardt King St. 422 live-music scene. Take thetrain,orbuses an irrepressible of dose grunge andarockin’ Slowly moving upmarket, Newtownretains funky clothesstores, bookshops andcafés. St, itsrelentlessly urbanmaindrag,isfullof tures, studentsandhomerenovators. King a melting-potof subcul- socialandsexual Glebe. The MLRalsoservices Point runviaGeorge StalongGlebePointRd. 431 Rd (20minutes). Buses Pyrmont Bridge thenfollowPyrmontBridge along Broadway,orcrossDarlingHarbour’s Station 10-minutea smoggy walkfromCentral ( p103 ) overruns GlebePublicSchool. Glebeis galore).erapy andcrystals Saturday’s cruising café-linedGlebePointRd(aromath- decent accommodationandcountlessstudents Here you’llfind abackstreet Buddhisttemple, p86 ) nudges uptothe University of Sydney. 432 buses ( p103 aferry). Catch fromCircularQuay, and cafés.Don’tmiss theSaturday area of restored Victorianaflush withpubs turnedintoanarty,upper-crustit hasbeen dockyardneighbourhood, notoriously rough 62 multi-ride passes from$18; multi-ride Point; admission free, parksydney.com; 1 OlympicPl, Milsons House are end of KirribilliPoint,justeastof thebridge, Atthe Bay. onLavender Blues PointReserve cafés onBluesPoint Rd,runningdownto the bridge. There’s arowof cheery alfresco forgotten suburbbelowthewestern side of the Queen VictoriaBuilding(QVB). the Queen North Sydney North On the eastern shore of Bay Lavender Southwest of Glebeispredominantly Italian South of SydneyUniis Southwest of thecity,bohemian Luna Park Admiralty House  3, 426or428fromCircularQuay to YNY • ihs SYDNEY ••Sights (Map pp76 (Map pp76–7  4 from Railway Sqor441 4 fromRailway

Mp pp76-7; (Map (Map pp76–7 of- ), ahigh-rise (Map pp76–7 ) isa low-key,  (Map pp76–7 ) and 7 M03CC ), theSydneyresidences h M03C8 ), increasingly popular 10am-10pm Sun-Thu, 10am- % Newtown 9922 6644; www.luna  4 fromMillers (Map p86 ), Glebe   8 or440 Kirribilli Kirribilli 2 from market market (Map

forecourt; forecourt; p88; NeutralBay cafés proliferate. Afootpath follows the ocean burger joints, juice bars andlousy cappuccino ocean and harbourbeaches – surfshops, pany. The bourers andrelaxed localsare refreshing com- enclaves, Manly’s surfers, shaggy dustyla- North Head. harbour Surrounded bystuffy oceanandharbour beachesbetween near Laid-back Manly clingstoanarrowisthmus Manly scenes tours arrive withthedawn. under thestars. Breakfast andbehind-the- barbecuedinnerandtents safari, a night-time $156/105) The nightly return ferry rides,SkySafariandadmission. way downhill.The or bus238tothetopentranceand work your the is really steep, soifyouarrive byferry, take days, 8.45amSaturdayandSunday. Thezoo from7.15amonweek- Wharf 2,half-hourly and March. Zooferries departCircularQuay’s day, and the happenthroughout sions andkeeper talks and similarlyhirsute Australians.Feeding ses- 4000kangaroos,koalas,platypuses houses Mosman; adult/child/family$30/16.50/79; % down George Styet? Haven’t spotted anykangaroos bouncing Taronga Zoo ( opposite ). boxed Beaches text fordetails Sydney’s Best facing Manly acrossMiddleHarbour. the See improbably pretty suburbs. Onthenorthernsideof Mosmanis these nics. Ferries fromCircularQuayservice coves andharbourside parksperfect forpic- and pp76–7) andnausea. nerve-wracking and TumbleBugstilloffer varyingdegrees of ment theFerris Rotor,FlyingSaucer Wheel, policeinrecentnoise decades,butforthemo- by periodicallyclosed clown entry.Ithasbeen 10km lots of localinfoandfree pamphletsonthe midnight Fri &Sat) midnight Fri The ofEast here are theupmarket suburbs 9969 2777;www.zoo.nsw.gov.au; BradleysHeadRd, Sky Safari % Manly ScenicWalkway Manly 9976 1430; www.manlytourism.com; Manly Wharf Wharf Manly 9976 1430;www.manlytourism.com; isanovernight familyexperience with h Corso twilight concerts Manly Visitors InformationCentre Visitors Manly 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmSat&Sun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, (Map pp76–7 ), Roar & Snore Roar&Snore cablecar(includedinadmission) (Map p88 ) connectsManly’s Mosman , withitssinister chip-toothed Balmoral ZooPass (Map pp76–7 ), allwith Taronga Zoo take placeinFebruary ( % (p66). 16) includes (p106) Mp pp76–7), (Map 9978 4791;adult/child Cremorne lonelyplanet.com h

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has (Map (Map lonelyplanet.com Catch busL90or190from Wynyard,or193fromAvalon. Australian TV soap Australian TV of bliss. Barrenjoey end;enduring Lighthouse overlooks nudistsatthenorthern free-roaming snorkel, but don’t go killing anything…Catch bus339. butdon’tgokilling snorkel, until hewasspeared byatourist,butthere are stillgrouperstobeseenunderwater. Bringyour than beach,buttheswellstillsurges in.Afriendlybeloved grouperfishlived here formanyyears to WatsonsBay,orbusL82324 geous goldenharbourbeachfrequented byfamiliesandtoplessbeachbabes. Catch theferry intoCamp Cove’sinto SydneyHarbour,hisbootssinking sandon21January1788. It’sagor- as localsdo!Seebelow,andalso Shark patrolsoperate duringsummer. Manybeachesare topless;acoupleare nude–feel free todo Mostbeachesareinstead lifesavers. ofgoingtowork. clean, easilyaccessibleandare patrolledbysurf Sydney’s sensationalbeachesteem life, withweekend butSydneysidersalsoswim before, after or SYDNEY’S BESTBEACHES or X77 from Circular Quay, 395 from Railway Sq,orX96fromElizabethSt. or X77fromCircularQuay,395Railway yououtofthesurf.in thecommunitypsyche,butdon’tlet themkeep Catch buses376 immunity fromBondi’smore trappings. hectic The notorious‘Bra Boys’gangremains entrenched Blues sense ofimpending‘something’erupting intoracialviolencein2005.The ’70scultnovel refineries. It’sanedgyplace withdingyfish-and-chipshopsandinsomniousteens, theragged sleepy cafésandsecond-handbookshops. Togethere, catchbusL88,190orL90fromWynyard. always dreamed consistent; ofbutcouldnever therelaxed find.The surf’s backstreets are linedwith vaguely spooky-looking NielsenParkvaguely spooky-looking asabackdrop.Catch bus325 fromCircularQuay. swimmers frombecoming something’slunch.It’safamilyscene, withharbourviewsandtheshady, bus 372 and groovers aslow-flyingairlinersbuzzthebeach.Catch or alike bus353fromBondiJunction, grommets backpackers, you. The beachiswideandhandsome–roomenoughforfrisbee-throwing Sq. 378 fromRailway asareperfect, thebeachycafésalongonceexceedinglyuncoolshoppingstrip.Catch bus behind Bronte, asmallfamily-oriented beachthatcangetwildand seaweedy.The rockpoolis shark-netted southernend.Catch bus175fromWynyardthen275SpitJunction. migrate Shore andwindsurfers tothe families. North Swimmers,kayakers popular withpicnicking 361 from Bondi Junction. if youfeel athomehere, ofthingsanyway… Catch you’re bus probably notintothosekinds the genericallygorgeous.attracts no ballgames’.Nofun. Still, Signs say,‘Nofrisbees, nokites, or busL82324 trackfrom(somewhat ironically)Camp Cove.cliff-top walking Catch theferry to WatsonsBay, on topofwhich(somewhatironically) isaRoyalAustralian Navyfacility.Togethere, followthe hit thewaves andmumshittherockpool.Catch busL85,L88,190 orL90fromWynyard. shops. Grommets somegoodcafésandubiquitoussurf family beachfronted bychunkyapartments, Sak Bay Shark Cronulla Maroubra Coogee Avalon Pl Beach Palm Clovelly De Why Dee Balmoral Tamarama e v o C p m a C Bronte Ld Bay Lady captured thelocalteen scene. Catch thetraintoCronulla.  4 or313

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Mp pp76-7) (Map Mp p108) (Map   4 fromCircularQuay. Norfolk Islandpines andsandstoneheadlandsencirclethebowl-shapedpark Norfolk 5 fromCircularQuay. Home &Away Caught inasandy’70stimewarp,Avalon isthemythicalAustralian beachyou CoogeeisanAboriginal wordforrottingseaweed,butdon’tletthatdeter The concrete terrace skirting along skinny Clovelly The itmore alongskinny concrete baymakes pool terrace skirting Distorted from Distorted Cronulla’s MaroubrarivalsBondiforsize andswell,butitssuburbanlocation provides Fully itsnickname ‘Glamarama’,Tamarama’s deserving deep,sexygulch Despite thename,there’s really nothingtoworryabout –asharknetprotects Splitintwobyanunfeasibly picturesque rockyoutcrop,Balmoralis This diminutive, mainlygaynudistbeachsitsatthebottomofacliff, The northernmost of the Northern Beaches,Palm oftheNorthern The Beach isameniscus northernmost WhenPhillip realised BotanyBayjustdidn’tcutit,hesailednorth Bondi looong films its treacle-sweet episodes atthesheltered filmsitstreacle-sweet southernend.  5 fromCircularQuay. diwai, (p61), surf beachstretches beyondthedunestoBotanyBay surf an Aboriginal name for a local bird, Dee Why is a no-fuss anAboriginal nameforalocalbird,DeeWhyisno-fuss Manly poie) and (opposite ) Northern Beaches Northern ( p64 ):  Puberty 7, 396

63 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY .sydneynorthernbeaches.com.au) the QVB. bus 169orE69fromWynyard, 151from Avalon Curl Palm Beach shops andover twentybeaches, finishingat headlands, fish andchipback ’burbs,craggy they formacontinuous30kmstretch of laid- daytrip.Extending northfromManly,sandy Sydney’s Northern Beaches ($13.30; ($27.50; the deadlinger; take theadults-only $11/7.70; % route, the ocean, harbourandcityviews.Alongthis the beach. Tue-Sun) &Museum Gallery Art for asurf…Nextdoor,thebeachy come ifyou’re onthewaytoManly Beach timate with10ftsharks. Nottheplaceto whichthrough youbecomealarminglyin- ium withunderwater transparent tubes h .com.au; WEsplanade;adult/child/family$18/10/44; Oceanworld cafés, pubsandrestaurants. Westof here is the refurbished ShellyBeach Bower Beach shoreline aroundasmallheadlandtotiny Association novice. the Contact is bothbig andbusy,especially ifyou’re a kayaking, butbear inmindthatthe harbour Sydney Harbour istheobviouschoice for Canoeing &Kayaking ACTIVITIES boxedBeaches text ( p63 ). also theSydney’sBest to Palm See Beach. respectively. BusL90runsfromWynyard run fromManly WhyandCurl Curl toDee 136and139 plummeting headlands.Buses .manly.nsw.gov.au; adult/child$3.60/1.20; ers 1832and1984.Ghostsof dweltbetween cated, where carri- isolated epidemic-disease 64 wood To get toManly, catch theferry orJetCat, North Head ScenicDrprovides stunning 9247 5033;www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; adult/child 10am-5.30pm) , beaches. More are spectacular Dee Why YNY • ciiis SYDNEY ••Activities and h h focuses onManly’s focuses relationship with h 6pm Fri) 7.30pm Wed & Fri-Sun) 7.30pm Wed&Fri-Sun)

. Alongthewayare Northern Beaches Northern (Map (Map p88 ; Mp pp78-9 ; (Map 1.15pm Thu & Sun, bookings essential) 1.15pm Thu&Sun,bookings Bilgola (Map p88 ) .Ontheharbourside, Manly Quarantine Station Manly (Map p88 ) andthepicturesque , Collaroy , a daggy-looking ’80saquar-, adaggy-looking . Manly Wharf Manly beaches, allwithdramatic, %

Mp p88; (Map New South Wales Canoeing % , 8251 7879;www.oceanworld Narrabeen 9660 4597; www.nswcanoe make alow-key, (Map p88 ) offers or

% Mp p7- www pp76-7; (Map

Freshwater Kids’ GhostWalk Kids’ 9949 1776;www h and Ghost Tour

10am-5pm Mp p88; (Map Warrie- Whale islo- Manly , Fairy Curl ,

Quality wheelsonCentennialPark’s doorstep. h .woolyswheels.com; 82OxfordSt,Paddington; perday$39; and half-day introductory sessions. and half-day introductory boatdives courses from$345;guided shore dives,weekend from7.45am Sat&Sun)Learn-to-dive 7pm Mon-Fri, .divesydney.com.au; 10 BelgraveSt,Manly; from $350;shore &boatdives. from7.30am Sat&Sun)Four-dayPADIMon-Fri, courses .divebondi.com.au; 192 BondiRd,Bondi; Sat, 11am-3pmSun). h citycycles.com.au; 151GlebePointRd,Glebe;perday$33; good-quality gear. h 456Pitt St;perday$35; www.cheekymonkey.com.au; 4099; www.bicyclensw.org.au; St) Level 5,822George metropolitan area,metropolitan most are though members- There are more than80 golf courses inthe Golf Manly Centre Dive Bondi Centre Dive Heads, andoff RoyalNationalPark. are WeddingCake Coogee,Island off Sydney Ship Rock,Cronulla. Popularboatdive sites north of Coogee; Shark Point,Clovelly; and Sydney’s bestshore dives are GordonsBay, Diving Wooly’s Wheels Inner CityCycles Cycles Cheeky Monkey and/or credit carddetails. many require aheftydeposit(about $500) Many cycle-hire shopsalsohave rates; weekly CYCLE HIRE longpaths. traffic, ParkCentennial ispopularforpedalling–less can make forafrustrating cyclingexperience. Sydney’s topography,humidityanddrivers Cycling age limit. ings are there essential; is anover-15-years-old bridge NorthShore tosecluded bays.Book- Wharf,passunderthe Bay from Lavender .com; perpersoninclbrunch$110; Wanders course andhirecanoe information. Park.org.au; Complex,WattleSt,Ultimo) Wentworth city routes andpaths. lishes Kayak harbourtours conducted by 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to8pmThu, 4pm Sat&Sun) 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to7pmThu,9am-4pm 9.30am-6pm Mon-Wed&Fri, specialistswith 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)Touring Cycling AroundSydney

Mp pp76-7; (Map (Map (Map p84 ; (Map (Map p86 ; Mp p87; (Map Mp p88; (Map Bicycle NSW % Mp pp78-9; (Map 9899 1001;www.kayaksydney % % % % 9331 2671;www 9660 6605;www.inner h 9369 3855;www 9977 4355;www

lonelyplanet.com Mp p84; (Map , which details , which details 9am-1pm) h % h 8.30am-6pm 9212 4460; 8.30am-

% Natural pub- leave for 9281 The CBD’sclosestpubliccourse(18-hole,par70). $45,Sat&Sun$50; St; 18holesMon-Fri www.mooreparkgolf.com.au; cnr Anzac Pde&Cleveland sons $50perhour. les- acrossfromthebeach.Private and safety gear,right $15; hire perhrfrom Steyne,Manly; blades.com.au; 2/49North .sydneybysail.com.au; Festival Pontoon, National Maritime stables.com.au) Centennial Stables Centennial lowing ones;equinefamiliaritynotrequired. conduct ridesincludethefol- stables Several Park, Sydney’sfavourite urbangreen space. 3.6km ridesaround treelinedhorse Centennial incl equipment$60; % The Horse Riding ParkMoore GolfCourse cliff-toppubliccourse(9-hole,par28). Spectacular h Bondi;18holes$18.50; golf.com.au; Rd,North 5Military Bondi GolfClub cially onweekends). only. Booktoplayonpubliccourses (espe- lonelyplanet.com Sydney bySail Eastsail SailingSchool the harbour. an introductorylesson isasuperwaytosee schools. Even salt, if you’re sea notaserious Sydney hasdozens of yacht clubsandsailing Sailing Rollerblading Sydney Blades Manly for skating. and Centennial Park’s pathwaysare superb The BondiandManly beach promenades In-line Skating ParkMoore Stables Academy Eastside Riding stables.com.au) Station; ½hrperperson$50-99; PointTrain www.rollerbladingsydney.com.au; Milsons Rushcutters Bay;cruises perpersonfrom$95; NewBeachRd, www.eastsail.com.au; d’Albora Marina, tory ‘Yachtmaster’ coursesfrom$475. yachtcruise; introduc- mainsail on a morningorafternoon 6pm) Asociable outfitwithaflotilla ofboats. Hoistthe sideriding.com.au) skates and protective gear. andprotective skates withlessons, quality relling acrossSydneyHarbourBridge sendsyoubar- instructor Yourreassuring 7-9pm Mon-Fri) 9332 2809;www.cp.nsw.gov.au; LangRd,Paddington; perhr 7am-sunset Mon-Fri, 12.30pm-sunsetSat&Sun) 7am-sunset Mon-Fri, h Centennial Parklands Equestrian Centre Parklands Equestrian Centennial 9am-6pm) Top-of-the-range blades, skateboards blades,skateboards 9am-6pm) Top-of-the-range (Map (Map p88 ; Mp pp78-9; (Map (Map (Map p87 ; h SYDNEY••Activities ( ( 9am-5pm) % % (Map (Map pp76-7 ; (Map (Map pp76-7 ; % (Map (Map p84 ; 9360 5650;www.centennial 9360 8747;www.moorepark ( % % 9976 3833;www.manly % h conducts one-hour, conductsone-hour, 9130 1981;www.bondi 9360 7521;www.east 9280 1110; www 8am-6pm Sat&Sun, % % h % 9663 1064; 0411 872022; 6am-10pm) 9327 1166; h

(Map p84 ; ; p84 (Map 9am- Maroubra. and wetsuithire (nolesson)$30fortwohours. Alsoat Bondiswell.Board lessonsintheNorth Small-group incl board&wetsuitadult/child$75/39; Ave, 128Ramsgate Bondi;2hrlesson gosurfing.com.au; h DarlingHarbour;tour$130,course$425; Museum, the waterwillensure you’re shipshape. sailingcourses–12hourson weekend sive introductory undesirables. swimmersfromunderwater protect (1884) picturesquely baths Dec-Feb) Thesemagnificentlyrestored late-Victorian h Park, Glassop St,Balmain;adult/child$3.40/2; Elkington bodyboards: try your luck at Manly Beach. bodyboards: tryyourluckatManly /full-day $20/40; hotmail.com; 44Pittwater boardhire half- Rd,Manly; Olympian; five-star amenities andharbour-viewcafé. Olympian; five-star the1924 A 50moutdoorsaltwaterpoolnamedafter Domain; adult/child$5.20/3.60; Rd,The 6686; www.abcpool.org;1CMrsMacquaries Dawn FraserBaths ‘Boy’ CharltonPool Andrew the surf. patrolled areas, underestimate andnever Always swimwithintheflagged lifeguard- hangover faster than)Pacific Oceanwaves. swimming, butnothingbeats(or cures a and shark-netted (butsometimessoupy) rock pools.Harbour beaches offer sheltered in Sydneyandmanybeaches have protected There are 100-plus publicswimmingpools Swimming School Surf Manly Let’s GoSurfing Aloha Surf Mona Vale andNewport. Why,Narrabeen, including CurlCurl,Dee surf beaches Manly between andPalm Beach, On theNorthShore, there are adozengnarly marama, Coogee, Maroubra andCronulla. On theSouthShore, get tubedatBondi,Ta- Surfing North SydneyOlympic Pool North shore-breaks. AlsoatPalmshore-breaks. BeachandCollaroy. h lessons perhrinclboard&wetsuitadult/child$50/40; Club,Manly; SteyneSurf North .manlysurfschool.com; the harbour. toLuna Park, 7am-7pm Sat&Sun) Next on Mon-Fri, right Point; adult/child $4.90/2.40; Milsons Alfred2309; www.northsydney.nsw.gov.au; StSouth, Outdoor city pools include these ones. Outdoor citypoolsincludethese 7.15am-6.15pm Oct-Nov & Mar-Apr, 6.45am-7pm &Mar-Apr, 7.15am-6.15pm Oct-Nov 9am-6pm) Small-group surf lessons in the Manly lessonsintheManly surf 9am-6pm) Small-group 9am-5pm) Dailyharboursailingtoursandcomprehen- Mp p88; (Map h (Map (Map p87 ; 9am-6pm) Longboards, shortboards, 9am-6pm) Longboards,shortboards, Mp p88; (Map Mp pp76-7; (Map % 9977 3777;alohasurfmanly@ % (Map (Map pp76-7 ; (Map (Map pp78-9 ; h % 9365 1800;www.lets 6am-8pm Sep-Apr) 6am-8pm Sep-Apr) % 9977 6977;www h h 9555 1903; 5.30am-9pm 9am-7pm) % % 9955 9358

65 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY an exhibitionorperformance. Bronte Beach Bronte or stickyourheadinto Slide past sexpot Slide pastsexpot lar (watch fordolphins,whalesandsurfers). Pacific Oceancouldn’tbemore spectacu- andgrinding cliffs the blustery sandstone pathattheendofonto thecliff Notts Ave – Icebergs the beach toNottsAve andtheglistening on Sunday’s funky Ave. Have aquickdip thenrummage through anddryonRamsgate high humungous, stay runs alongtherockstobeach –ifthesurf’s spots andfoodydelights. interweaving panoramicviews,swimming via Clovelly, Tamarama and Bronte beaches, toCoogee alongtheclifftops Bondi Beach walkleadssouthfrom This beautifulcoastal Bondi toCoogeeClifftopTrail WALKING TOURS Parklands Tennis Centre PointTennisMillers Court .com.au) Sydney. There are hundreds of publictennis courtsin Tennis 66 steps to the upturned dinghies lining steps to theupturned dinghies Pde then downthe park, alongCliffbrook Beach Burrows Park and Bundock Park to cockatoos, banksias andcanoodlinglovers in oragame ofa beer bowls, thenbreeze pastthe into thesunbaked Trumper are amongthesubterranean. Duck writer Henry and cricketerLawson Victor the sun-bleached bolster you. Pde &LangRd,Moore Park; perhrfrom$16.50; cnrAnzac www.parklandssportscentre.citysearch.com.au; hard court cut into a leafy sandstone nook. cutintoaleafysandstonenook. hard court St,TheRocks;perhr$25; 2222; Kent ( 10pm) Faux-grass andhardcourts. the sea sprayatthe the sea Ave Rd,leftintoRamsgate Military andtaste insensitive localcouncil.March southalong zarrely ‘re-grooved’ bythewell-meaningbut Golf Club.Somedecadesagotheywere bi- 1 ) between the tower and the cliffs at Bondi thetowerandcliffs ) between Follow the footpath up through thecarFollow the footpathupthrough Grab abite, abikini orsomesurfboardwax Begin attheEora Begin Continue pastthe Campbell Parade Campbell YNY • akn or Tours SYDNEY ••Walking ( lobsupinformation. 12 ( Tennis NSW p63). ; 6 ; p94 ) poolandrestaurant. Step ( 8 ; p63 ) where beachy caféswill Bondi BeachMarket Waverley Cemetery Cemetery Waverley Tamarama Beach

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SttoPaddington. forgroups; Mainly Rocks toMacquarie tourstoSydney,fromThe runsintroductory cient Maureen .au/~mpfry; 2hrtoursperpersonfrom$18)Theomnis- entertain thekids. entertain and plentyto days at Homebush: animals,agriculture 9am & 1pm May-Nov) Humpback and Southern Wright HumpbackandSouthernWright 9am &1pmMay-Nov) (www.tropfest.com.au) Theworld’slargest (www.flickerfest.com.au) Internationalshort- (www.flickerfest.com.au) (Map (Map pp78-9 ; ( (26 January) Regattas, barbecuesand (26January)Regattas, % (www.sydneyfestival.org.au) Thismas- SYDNEY••Festivals &Events 9660 7157;www.ozemail.com (January/February) Dragon-boat (www.eastershow.com.au) Twelve (Map (Map pp78-9 ; % 1300 887373;www (www.mardigras % h 9583 9am- August hemisphere Christmas. Mountains businessescelebrateamaladjustedsouthern- May popular horserace;atRoyalRandwick. July .darlingharbour.com) Free jazzyjamboree. November ba deda. three daysofbebopandza jazz) LabourDayweekend; June atCircularQuay. May December transforms intoasculpture garden. trailbetweenBondi andBronte theclifftop Mid-November; Celebrations coincidingwithInternationalWomen’sDay. Manly JazzFestival Manly Rugby LeagueGrandFinal Festival oftheWinds Festival Spring Royal BotanicGardens September from HydePark toBondiBeach. on thesecondSundayinAugust,50,000foolsrun14km Run City toSurf Yulefest JazzFestivalDarling HarbourInternational Sydney day orgyofcinemaattheStateTheatre andDendycinemas. Sydney Film Festival FashionAustralian Festival Sydney Writers’ Sydney Cup Women’s Festival Christmas Day Christmas bytheSea Sculpture October better. best teamsintheNationalRugbyLeague decidewho’s ofNewSouthWalesandcityvenues. Gallery the Art festival yearsat heldineven-numbered International arts literary Sydney,withguestauthors,talksandforums. markets andaplethoraofpollen. markets plant syd.nsw.gov.au) iscelebratedwithconcerts, Spring lifesavers. Bondi Beach, much totheconsternation of overworked at BondiBeach. festival .au/info/pavilion/fotw) Amulticulturalkite-flying

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69 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY fireworks displays overtheharbour. and BondiBeachheavewithalcohol-soddencelebrations; Base Backpackers Wanderers onKent Wanderers Base Backpackers BUDGET City Centre,TheRocks&Circular Quay good valueforgroupsandfamilies. morements usuallysleep thantwopeople– apart- Serviced at$200a night. doubles start $101and$200;top-end doubles costbetween as upto$50/100forasingle/double. Midrange Potts Point,SurryHillsorManly. If youwanttokeep thingslow-key, tryGlebe, Rocks, CBD,DarlingHarbour orChinatown. huntersand highlight shouldshoot forThe Paddington orBondi;shoppers, gourmands should headforKingsCross,Darlinghurst, before decidingwhere partypeople tostay: you adiscount. like TourismNSW( p52 ) cansometimesland anaccommodationagencyBooking through in determining thepriceof aSydneyroom. lower. Predictably, aviewcanplaybigpart travellers, sotheirweekend rates maybe Many cityhotels cater primarilytobusiness winter months, youcanoften strike abargain. foyers blowthrough intheslower bleweeds by asmuch as40%.Conversely, whentum- prices (especiallyatbeachside hotels) jump Novemberview hotels. andFebruary, Between authentic Aussie pubsanddeluxe harbour- motels,hostels tocosyB&Bs,comfortable frombudget rundry,witheverything never Sydney’s wellof to accommodation seems SLEEPING New Year’s Eve ofthisgruellingoceanrace. forthestart onlookers 26December)SydneyHarbour teemswith hobart.com; Yacht Race Sydney toHobart 70 spotless rooms with TV, phone, fridge and spotless rooms withTV, paiw Ave;.au; 5-11Wentworth dm$35,s/d/tr/ffrom$75/90/110/175; emptor. dorms. Somerooms are shoeboxes –caveat in the ary’ ($34)orrisk boy-contamination the bar. girls-only‘sanctu- inthesanitary Stay whenthingsget raucousat at night downright Backpackers branchSydney’s Base livens up outenjoyingthemselves), the day(everyone’s $26-32; s&d$90; % Read uponSydney’sneighbourhoods In thischapter, abudget roomisclassified Y Hotel 9267 7718; www.basebackpackers.com; 477 Kent St;dm 477Kent 9267 7718;www.basebackpackers.com; YNY • leig SYDNEY ••Sleeping

Mp pp78-9; (Map ) ai Standards here Standards are –simple, high (31 December) The Rocks, Kings Cross (31December)TheRocks,Kings ) Strangely during deserted % 9264 2451; www.yhotel.com (www.rolexsydney

Mp pp78-9; (Map of Sydney’soldesthotels, theGrand’slower 4044; www.lordnelson.com.au; 19 Kent St, Millers Pt;d$120- St,Millers 4044; www.lordnelson.com.au;19Kent for), lounge areas with fireplaces, library and Ashley,rooms (Laura you have alot toanswer with bathroom $235; St,TheRocks;dincl breakfast from$140, .au; 143aGeorge harbour views. facility roomsare wearybuthave magnificent shared- Basic, and acheap sleep. a beer night’s style makeovers andremains agreat placefor dock workers’ pub hasdodged kitsch Rocks- Millers Point,thisold-time,nicotine-stained $125/130) beers!). the patrioticbardownstairs (96Australian of glasses terrace, port and complimentary communal rooms,24-hourharbour-view roof pub accommodationscores pointsforsnug d $125) most withprivate bathrooms. colonial (stripysheets anddormer windows), Rocks’ touristthrong.Roomsare elegantly fromThe son’s Blood’),andisjustfarenough pub hasitsownbrewery (tryapintof ‘Nel- 180; Patrick’s Day. Four suites have spas($140);avoid nearSt with neutralcolours andshared bathrooms. approachpub-style roomstake alesspartisan d from$110) St,TheRocks; .mercantilehotel.citysearch.com.au; 25George Hotel Mercantile MIDRANGE plaining. in thislocation,youwon’thearanyonecom- prices bathrooms canbeadrag,butforthese andfridges. Sharedneat roomswithTVs hordes.Keepbeery goingupandyou’llfind floors and pulsatewithpokies,pooltables 30HunterSt;s/d/tr$80/90/110; .merivale.com; access. friendly; goodwheelchair as awoodpecker duringMardi Gras.Child- the roadandOxford away.Busy Stisawiggle city centre isjustbeyondHydePark across air-con plusanadjoining cafédownstairs. The from thebar. Upstairs thebasic,renovated, rior hintsattheIrishsympathiesemanating .australianheritagehotel.com; 100CumberlandSt,TheRocks; .australianheritagehotel.com; .palisadehotel.com.au; 35 Bettington St, Millers Pt;d/tw .palisadehotel.com.au; 35BettingtonSt,Millers Russell Palisade Hotel Grand Hotel Australian Hotel Hotel Australian Hotel Lord NelsonBrewery a Despite theshared bathrooms,this ) Built in 1841, this boutique sandstone Builtin1841,thisboutiquesandstone Standing inGothic isolation atop Standing

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Mp pp78-9; (Map % % % % 9232 3755;www 9247 3570;www 9247 2272;www 9247 2229;www a % ) One 9251 lonelyplanet.com .au) admission free; free, club$10-20; Card’ at the bar to help with introductions (‘I’m easy…but it looks like you’reCard’ (‘I’measy…butitlooks like at thebartohelpwithintroductions hard…’). chalksitscollective cuebythepooltables.messy, Kylierulesandmankind Pick upa‘Pick-up good-time boypalacepacksineveryone todrags. frombeefcakes The grog ischeap,thepatrons NSW malehomosexualsexislegalover theageof18;forwomenit’sover 16. streak and ‘gaybashing’isn’tunknown.Fortherecord, stilltaintssomecommunitysectors in ‘classic’ look;thelesbiansceneisabitmore inclusive. Despite broadacceptance,ahomophobic Bay, andAndrew ‘Boy’CharltonPool( p65 ). Formen,tans,moustachesandheavypecsare the Lady Bay( p63 ) andTamarama ( p63 ). AlsocheckoutRedLeaf PoolonNewSouthHeadRd,Double gay communityintheworld;NewtownishometoSydney’slesbianscene. Gaybeachlife focuseson social fabric. Gay isthe ofSydney’snew straightinSydney;gayandlesbianculture formingavocal,vitalpart GAY &LESBIANSYDNEY Exchange free-$20/5-10/free; Exchange free-$20/5-10/free; top-floor Ginger’s has indulgent lounge service. After-dance crowdsheavetop-floor Ginger’shas indulgentloungeservice. andsway. party Sq beacon.Downstairs it’sbeer-swilling andmannish. First-floor luxe Gilligan’sserves cocktails; heave withchestypoolboysandraging house. her sheenhasplayedtheCabaret Room,whiletheCellar Bar,Public BarandPriscillaLounge inspired to analternative gaycrowd.Sandwichedin between,theExchangeisaregulation beerypub. upstairs pumpshothousenightly;Phoenix clubdownstairsis the sticky,sexy,claustrophobichome h bar fires uplater on withresident DJs. Lipstick ladieslove Friday night’s ‘Bitch’ session. overwhatever Taylor pm,bootitdown toSol’sforabeer, sometapasand aperv Sq.The cocktail smoke machine.smoke recovery housemusic,dragshowsandahyperactive roomand twodancefloorswithhi-energy bers, he’dheadhere withabignetandsometranquillisers. This flashmegaclubhasacocktailbar, and lesbiantravel inOz. is provided bysensationallysequineddrag acts. with folkswhojust wanttogothelocalboozer andhave afew laughs. Musicalstimulation to MardiGrasmembers,thoughinterstate andoverseas visitorsreceive temporary membership. Tickets tothepost-parade linethestreets700,000 spectators –findabalconyorcordonoffpavement patchbefore itstarts. thelengthofOxfordSt.Around 200-float paradebegins onElizabethStaround7.30pmandcavorts out, solariumscooldownand‘Back,Sack&Crack’waxemporiumstallytheir profits. The rampant festival whichculminates inafleshystreet paradeonthelastSaturday inFebruary. Gymsempty as apoliticalmarchcommemoratingNewYork’sStonewallriots,andevolved intoamonth-longarts and referral callthe h Mon-Wed, $5 Thu-Sun; 24hr, Gilligans5pm-late, Ginger’s6pm-lateWed-Sat) Newtown Hotel Sydney’s famous Sol’s Deck Bar Midnight Shift Imperial Hotel Exchange Hotel ARQ Go forawanderalongthecityendofOxfordSt,ortryfollowingpopularfaves onforsize. Oxford Hotel Free gaymediaincudes . 9pm-6am Thu & Fri, 10pm-9amSat,9pm-9amSun) 9pm-6am Thu&Fri, 11am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnightSat,to10pmSun) 11am-midnight Mon-Fri, Gay &Lesbian Tourism Australia

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% Sydney 9360 4319; www.themidnightshift.com; 85OxfordSt,Darlinghurst; videobar 9360 4319;www.themidnightshift.com; 9517 1728; www.newtownhotel.com; 174 King St,Newtown;admissionfree; 9517 1728;www.newtownhotel.com;174King 9519 9899; www.theimperialhotel.com.au; 35 Erskineville Rd, Erskineville; Rd,Erskineville; 35Erskineville 9519 9899;www.theimperialhotel.com.au; 9331 2956;www.qbar.com.au; 34-44OxfordSt,Darlinghurst;QBar/Phoenix/ (theopeningscenewasfilmedhere). Any dragqueenworth

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heritage-listed renovated monolithhasbeen hotel.com.au; 500 Wattle St,Ultimo; s/dfrom $100/130; frequent internet deals. regal atmosphere. accessavailable; Wheelchair Tidy ensuite rooms strive foraplush, mildly double-glazed widowstokeep outthe noise. both Chinatown and DarlingHarbour, with d from$110; www.rydges.com/capitolsquare; &CampbellSts; cnrGeorge grumblesinthenight. traffic surrounds. Aimfor arear room– George St warmthesimple,restrainedwooden staircase Markand goodsecurity. Rothkoprintsanda trally shaded fridge roomswithair-con, TV, (derelict for40years!) features smart,neu- ai St;s/d/f$100/115/250;.pensione.com.au; 631-635George Pensione Hotel MIDRANGE ers intheofficetoweracross thestreet. faces attheDepartmentof Commercework- issittingintherooftop poolmaking highlight painted andthekitchens are great, butthe to withinaninch of itslife. Roomsare brightly pais Pl;dmfrom$29,d&tw$86; .yha.com.au; 11Rawson expensive doubleshave bathrooms. prices.Themorethan you’dexpectforthese to thefunctionalsideof fancy,butare better old ‘red rattler’traincarriages. Facilities lean of thedormsare insideNewSouthWales’ building isanhistoric1904trainshed–some thishostel’s Station, main joining Central .yha.com.au; 8Lee St;dm$27-33,d$78-88; for neglectingyourinnerparty-animal. hour check-in, sunnycafé,barandnoexcuse professionally-run hostel withatourdesk,24- busiest intersection. It’saconvivial,colourful, 1900 departmentstore ontopof Sydney’s .com.au; 509Pitt St;dmfrom$24,d&tw$88; Up! Wake BUDGET Harbour Central Station,Chinatown&Darling Clubs, bars andrestaurants on-site. proliferate. bathrooms andhigh-tech services in town–exquisite furnishings,indulgent secret now,eh?)withthesnazziestinteriors Backpackers soundlyinthisconverted sleep Vulcan Hotel Vulcan Hotel Square Capitol YHA Sydney Central YHA Square Railway ) Thistastefully reworked postoffice

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gow Arms’traditionallydecorated, no-frills the poker machines andupstairs totheGlas- thebar,beyond through Museum, Powerhouse a St,Ultimo;s/d$120/135; .glasgowarmshotel.com.au; 527Harris in the invented ‘Aa’ tosecure listing top-of-the-page ai hotel.com.au; 37UltimoRd,Chinatown;s/dfrom$110/130; here… and mini-bar.with TV No signof DrSpock ist grey-and-white ensuite rooms,complete crete direct international youtominimal- staff into boutiquebudget accommodation.Dis- before thelousypubroomswere converted Vulcan wasawatering holewellintothe’90s Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 9 ; the sunniest. Topfloor roomsaresolid 24-hour security. with simple rooms(shared bathrooms) and is areliableHighfield independent option, out ignitinganyone’s interior-design passions, incl breakfast $25/60/70) Cross;dm/s/d St,Kings www.highfieldhotel.com; 166Victoria and inclusive withoutbeingdebauched. rity andgascooking. Thesocialsceneislively decentbathrooms,goodsecu- friendly staff, in twocharacter-filled with Victorianhouses, backpackers. It’sarambling176-bed affair 25 years, thismaywellbeSydney’soriginal Cross; dm/s/d$25/55/65; St,Kings 160-162Victoria .originalbackpackers.com.au; Backpackers Original BUDGET & Woolloomooloo Kings Cross,PottsPoint rooms aren’t. below. Deluxe roomsare stylish; standard rooftop poolifyoufeel like ignoringthecity classy touches (Brett Whiteley prints),plusa roomswith business centre andserviceable the courteous Metro hasabrassylobby, from $135; 8088; www.metrohospitalitygroup.com;431Pitt St;d liam Henry Stare thepickof the bunch. pub-style rooms.ThebalconyroomsonWil- friendly; wheelchair accessible.friendly; wheelchair clean, light-filled roomsare alwaysfull.Kid- to have worked –Aaron’s brilliantlylocated, % Glasgow ArmsHotel Hotel Aaron’s Highfield Private Hotel Private Highfield Woodduck Harbour City Backpackers SydneyCentral Hotel Metro ) Scoot your way across the road from the Scootyourwayacrosstheroadfrom 1800 882 922;www.harbourcitybackpackers.com ) Yellow Pages Aaron actuallyexist–hewas doesn’t pais

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(Map (Map pp78- 9326 9539; % 9283 munal bathroomsare immaculate. scream, ‘Iwashipfive years ago’,butcom- gain price. Olive/cream/grey colourschemes put youinthethickof theactionatabar- small,niftyrooms (BYOearplugs), these Bar Bernly Private Hotel Bernly Private MIDRANGE hurst; dfrom$80) .darlobar.com.au; cnrLiverpoolSt&DarlinghurstRd,Darling- stairs. Harbour-view roomsare winners. live musicdown- twiddle-dee-dee and nightly prisingly quiet,given theWilliamStlocation with private bathroomsupstairs thatare sur- traditionally decorated, well-furnished rooms incl breakfast $70/80/90) Cross; s/d/tr .omalleyshotel.com.au; 228WilliamSt,Kings Free barbecuesare ahit. where hungover intheshade. guestsnodoff furnished dorms.There are three leafypatios areas, acrosscreaky floorboardsintorobustly spritelycontinues insidethrough communal Therelentlessa pinkhouse. colourattack dm $26,d&twinclbreakfast from$65; Cross; 6-8Barncleuth Sq,Kings www.pinkhouse.com.au; cue area andsociablekitchen/dining room. clean, secure andthere’s anacerooftop barbe- a bittoomuch composure attimes,butit’s composure have anddignity.Smile-free staff out of some theKingsCrossfraytomaintain favourite, it’sfarenough probablybecause d &tw$60; 6-8OrwellSt,Potts Point;dm$25, .evasbackpackers.com.au; backpack. else’s feelnever like you’re intosomeone stuffed the ceilingsare androomsairy–you’ll high It’sahugecity lights. placewith250beds,but some roof terrace which floatsyouupintothe feedback fromtravellers, mostlyforitsawe- gettingWoolloomooloo hostel hasbeen great d &twfrom$70; .au; 50SirJohnYoungCres, Woolloomooloo;dm$20-25, comes fromdodging dog poo. a bit dodgy,but the greatest risk probably Thelocation is potentially($100 per night). ‘executive’ doubles withprivate bathrooms and arooftop garden.There’s alsoacrop of shared-facility rooms with24-hourreception hassimple than-it-looks backstreet Bernly s/d/f inclbreakfast from$15/45/60/130; Ave, Cross;dm/ 15Springfield .bernlyprivatehotel.com.au; Kings Royal Sovereign Hotel Royal Sovereign Hotel O’Malley’s Backpackers Eva’s Pink House i ) Eva’s isaperennial backpackers

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73 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY a Cross;s/d/trfrom$90/100/135; .au; 59BayswaterRd,Kings and tastily located.and tastily paintings of fruitetc).Still,it’sclean,secure the-top Victoriana(floralquilts,chandeliers, andplentyof over-bathrooms, allwithTVs with22roomsprivateterrace houses pa St,Potts Point; dfrom$150; 122Victoria .victoriacourt.com.au; harbour view. anywhere intheworldifyoudon’thave a for days.Theroomsare comfybutcouldbe on-site) thatlast andboozy boys’-nights-out eans (there’s Bathhouse anamazingGinseng Crest caters tobusiness bods,visitingKor- With thedefinitive KingsCrosslocation,the Cross;d$130-150; .com.au; 111DarlinghurstRd,Kings through. location, priceandfriendliness-factor win smell like anoven fullof wetsocks,butthe when thelaundry’srunning,hallways quagmire (shame, Ken Done,shame…), and ramas. Roomsare mired inan’80sdesign apartmentshave harbourpano- able serviced pas St,PottsPoint;d$115-135,tw/tr$130-150; .com; 28Macleay hangovers. barbarousKingsCross ($5 to$11)forthose whoppingcookeddownstairs does breakfasts their waynottoget inyourway.Thecafé Med whogooutof roomsandsmileystaff the quietpartof Rd,withnouveau- Bayswater lower rates forlonger stays. and spick-and-spanbathrooms.Ask about roomswithkitchenettes,small, bright TVs lis Ave cauldronistopvalue,offering caffeine from $60/100) [email protected]; 31ChallisAve, PottsPoint;s/d 74 www.simpsonspottspoint.com; 8ChallisAve, Potts Point;s/d access. Good wheelchair yards or balconies, somewith leafyoutlooks. price and roominess.All rooms have court- it offers thatrare combinationof location, inSydney, but be theflashestplace you’llstay treasure, thisship-shapeportina stormwon’t d/tr/f from$155/175/200; 44-50 McElhoneSt,Woolloomooloo; .marinerscourt.com.au; house fillingapairofhouse three-storey 1881brick Simpsons ofPotts Point Court Mariners Macleay Hotel Maisonette Victoria Court Hotel Court Victoria Hotel Crest 59 Hotel ) Hotel 59isgoodbangforyourbuckon YNY • leig SYDNEY ••Sleeping ) The Victoria is a sweetly runguest- TheVictoriaisasweetly )

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pi 270GlebePointRd;s$150,d$180-200; www.tricketts.com.au; merchant’s mansion, seven largemerchant’s mansion,seven roomswith tering awaytoeach otheronwalkie-talkies. nat- gym, magicalroof staff terrace andefficient business centre, indoorlappool, pooltable, are goodvalue. Impressive facilitiesinclude a Bros departmentstore lackthe‘wow’factor,but pis hotel.com.au; cnrBroadway&BaySt;s/d/tr$120/160/180; Unilodge Hotel MIDRANGE Rd. Sorry,nokids. management, notfarfromGlebePoint affable with sharedVictorian house bathroomsand It’sasuper-tidydoing somethingright! 1877 glowing reports of theWattle–theymustbe $30/75/80; .wattlehouse.com.au; 44Hereford St;dm/s/dinclbreakfast room. a disabled-access spaceycommunalareas, gascooking and staff, is clean,quietandwellrun,withmultilingual Alishan (anarea of Taiwan, don’tyouknow?), 111-year-old inthecentre house of Glebe,the $25, s/dfrom$55/77; % reliable inaYHA kindof way. showdowns.Kitchens andbathroomsaresalsa extravaganzas speed-dating and becue nights, lure istheparty-peoplerooftop withitsbar- basic roomsandshared bathrooms.Themain An incredible hulkof ahostel withcolourful, .com.au; 262-264GlebePointRd;dm$25-29,s/d$60/70; Glebe PointYHA BUDGET Glebe ( Doyles ontheBeach p93 ) are essential. ter rates andfishchips too. at Reservations, have excellentmidrange roomsandgoodwin- really aplush-o-rama top-endhotel, butthey In oneof Sydney’smostbeautifulspots,thisis Rd,WatsonsBay;d$145-420; .doyles.com.au; 1Military Doyles Palace Hotel TOP END billiard table andbarbecue.billiard table Nounder-12s. wonderland andthere’s akitchen, ballroom, tiques and Persian rugs.Thegarden isaverdant private bathrooms are decked outwith an- Alishan International GuestHouse Alishan International Tricketts Bed&Breakfast Tricketts Wattle GuestHouse 9566 4048;www.alishan.com.au;100GlebePointRd;dm ) Insidethispreciously restored 1880s p ) The rooms inside this former Grace TheroomsinsidethisformerGrace ) Readers have bombardeduswith

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EATING (pp91–5) Basement...... 143 D3 Flame Opals...... 172 C3 INFORMATION US Consulate General...... 34 SH Ervin Gallery...... C3 73 Aria...... 113 D2 Capitol Theatre...... 144 C7 Gannon House...... 173 C2 1 YHA Membership & Travel Speakers' Corner...... E4 74 Bar Reggio...... 114 E6 Cave...... (see 157) Gavala...... (see 174) D4 American Express...... 2 C4 Centre...... 35 St Andrew's Cathedral...... C6 75 BBQ King...... 115 C6 City Recital Hall...... 145 C4 Harbourside Shopping 3 D3 St James Church...... D5 76 Blackbird...... 116 B5 Dendy Opera Quays...... 146 D2 Centre...... 174 B5 C5 D5 Central Station Exchange SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp52–66)St Mary's Cathedral...... 77 Bodhi...... 117 D5 Gaelic Club...... 147 C8 Myer...... 175 C5 4 36 D4 78 American Bureau...... Consulate...... C4 C7 Andrew 'Boy' Charlton Pool...... F3State Library of NSW...... Chinese Noodle Restaurant...... 118 C7 George Street Cinemas...... 148 C6 Paddy's Market...... 176 C7 37 B5 79 Anzac Memorial...... D6Sydney Aquarium...... Chinta Ria, Temple of Love...... 119 B5 Home...... 149 B5 Queen Victoria Building British Consulate...... Circular Quay Exchange 5 38 C2 D3 80 Forty One...... 120 D4 IMAX...... 150 B6 (QVB)...... 177 C5 D3 Argyle Cut...... Sydney Architecture Walks...... Bureau...... 39 C2 B5 81 Golden Century...... 121 C6 Lyric Theatre...... (see 157) RM Williams...... 178 C5 City Host Information Kiosk Argyle Place...... Sydney by Sail...... 6 40 E4 D3 82 Guillaume at Bennelong...... 122 E2 Metro...... 151 C6 Strand Arcade...... 179 C5 D3 (Circular Quay)...... Art Gallery of NSW...... 41 D6Sydney Ferries...... D1 83 Mother Chu's Vegetarian Moshtix (Red Eye Strand Hatters...... (see 179) City Host Information Kiosk 7 Australian Museum...... Sydney Harbour Bridge...... 84 Kitchen...... 123 C6 Records)...... 152 C6 The Rocks Market...... 180 C2 D4 (Martin Place)...... Australian National Maritime 42 B5Sydney Observatory...... C2 85 One Alfred Street...... 124 D3 Open Air Cinema...... 153 F2 Wayne Cooper...... 181 C5 City Host Information Kiosk 8 Museum...... 43 D2Sydney Theatre...... C2 86 Quay...... 125 D2 Phoenix...... 154 E7 World Square...... 182 C6 C5 9 44 C2 D5 87 Rockpool...... 126 C2 Q Bar...... (see 134) (Town Hall)...... D3 Bonza Bike Tours...... Sydney Tower...... 10 45 D2 E4 88 Sailors Thai Canteen...... 127 D2 Slipp Inn...... 155 C4 TRANSPORT (pp104–6) CityRail Information Booth...... C8 BridgeClimb...... The Domain...... 11 46 C2 89 Summit...... 128 C4 Soup Plus...... 156 C5 Air New Zealand...... 183 C4 Countrylink Travel Centre...... D5 Cadmans Cottage...... The Rocks Walking Tours...... 12 47 C5 90 Wharf...... 129 C1 Star City Casino...... 157 A4 Alitalia...... 184 C4 Department of Lands...... C5 Captain Cook Cruises...... D3 Town Hall...... 13 48 D2 Zaaffran...... 130 B5 State Theatre...... 158 C5 British Airways...... 185 C3 Dymocks...... C5 Cheeky Monkey Cycles...... C7 Whale Watching Sydney...... 14 49 SLEEPING (pp70–91) Sydney Conservatorium of Bus TransitShop (Circular C4 B6 French Consulate...... 15 Chinese Garden of Friendship..... 50 91 DRINKING (pp95–8) Music...... 159 E3 Quay)...... 186 D3 C7 B5 General Post Office...... 16 Cockle Bay Wharf...... 51 C7 92 Australian Hotel...... 131 C2 Sydney Dance Bus TransitShop (Queen C7 D3 Global Gossip...... 17 Customs House...... 52 Aaron's Hotel...... C3 Bar Europa...... 132 D4 Company...... (see 166) Victoria Building)...... 187 C5 C2 Global Gossip...... 18 Garrison Church...... 53 B&B Sydney Harbour...... 93 Cave Nightclub...... 133 A4 Sydney Entertainment Bus TransitShop (Railway E3 Internet World...... 19 Government House...... 54 Base Backpackers Wanderers C5 94 Establishment...... (see 97) Centre...... 160 B7 Square)...... 188 C8 C6 D5 20 55 C4 95 Exchange Hotel...... 134 D6 Sydney Opera House...... 161 E2 Bus TransitShop (Wynyard Japanese Consulate...... D4 Great Synagogue...... B5 on Kent...... 56 F4 96 Hero of Waterloo...... 135 C2 Sydney Theatre Station)...... 189 C4 Kinokuniya...... C5 Harbour Jet...... D6 Blacket...... 21 57 C7 97 Hollywood Hotel...... 136 D7 Company...... 162 C2 CityRail Information Kiosk...... 190 C7 Map World...... C6 Hyde Park...... D5 BLUE Sydney...... 22 58 C3 98 Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel...... 137 B2 Theatre Royal...... 163 D4 Ferry Information Office...... 191 D3 New Zealand High Hyde Park Barracks Museum...... D3 Capitol Square Hotel...... 23 59 B7 99 Marble Bar...... 138 C5 Ticketek...... 164 D5 Japan Airlines...... 192 C5 Commission...... B4 24 D4 Justice & Police Museum...... 60 Establishment Hotel...... 100 Mars Lounge...... 139 D6 Ticketmaster...... 165 C5 Overseas Passenger D3 NRMA...... 25 King St Wharf...... 61 Glasgow Arms Hotel...... 101 Tank...... (see 140) Wharf Theatre...... 166 C2 Terminal...... 193 D2 B5 Police Station...... C4 Macquarie Place...... 62 Grand Hotel...... C4 102 Tank Stream Bar...... 140 C3 Wine Banq...... 167 D4 Qantas...... 194 C3 B5 Poste Restante Service...... C6 Matilda Cruises...... 63 Hilton...... C5 103 Zeta...... 141 C5 Railway Square...... 195 C8 C3 Qantas Centre...... 26 C4 Matilda Rocket Express...... Hyde Park Inn...... D6 104 SHOPPING (pp101–4) Singapore Airlines...... 196 C3 D4 Sydney Eye Hospital...... (see27 C3 27)Miller's Point Tennis Court...... 64 Mercantile Hotel...... C2 105 ENTERTAINMENT (pp98–101) Alannah Hill...... 168 C5 Sydney Coach Terminal...... 197 C7 65 106 Sydney Harbour National Park Mint Building...... Metro Hotel Sydney Central..... C7 Australian Theatre for Young Australian Wine Centre...... 169 C3 United Airlines...... 198 C4 28 107 David Jones...... Information Centre...... Museum of Palisade Hotel...... B2 People (ATYP)...... 142 C2 170 D5 Watertours...... 199 B5 D2 67 C7 108 Bangarra Dance Theatre...... (see 166) David Jones...... 171 D5 Yellow Water Taxis...... 200 B4 Sydney Hospital...... Contemporary Art...... D3 Pensione Hotel...... 29 D4 68 C8 109 Sydney Visitor Centre (Darling Museum of Sydney...... D3 Railway Square YHA...... 30 C3 110 Harbour)...... 31 B6 NSW Canoeing Association...... 70 Russell...... 66 A6 C7 Sydney Visitor Centre (The 32 Parliament House...... 71 Sydney Central YHA...... 111 D4 D7 Rocks)...... 33 D2 Powerhouse Museum...... 72 Vibe Hotel...... 112 B7 C8 D6 Travel Bookshop...... Pylon Lookout...... 69 D1 Wake Up !...... Travel Doctor...... C5 Pyrmont Bridge...... B5 Woodduck Harbour City E5 Travelex...... C4 Rocks Discovery Museum ...... C2 Backpackers...... D6 Travellers' Information Service.... C7 Royal Botanic Gardens...... E4 Y Hotel...... Finger 0 200 m 82 KINGS CROSSWharf 0 0.1 miles KINGS CROSS 83 CITY CTRY

A B C D

s e r INFORMATION Hotel 59...... 17 C4 DRINKING (pp95–8) C Embarkation St Potts Point n am l th Exchange Bureau...... 1 C3 Hotel Altamont...... 18 B4 Bar Coluzzi...... 36 B5 Park Gran Global Gossip...... 2 B4 Kirketon...... 19 B5 Café Hernandez...... 37 C4 inco

L 1 y St Neot Ave Kings Cross Travellers Clinic...... 3 B3 MacLeay...... 20 C2 Darlo Bar...... 38 A5 w Woolloomooloo d R Police Station...... 4 C3 Maisonette Hotel...... 21 C2 Green Park Hotel...... 39 B5 The Wharf f Domain r M a cdona Post Office...... 5 C3 Mariners Court...... 22 B2 Hugo's Lounge...... 40 B4 h ld St W St Vincent's Hospital...... 6 B6 Medusa...... 23 A5 Jimmy Lik's...... 41 B3 r e Mcdonald La

p t Toilet...... 7 C3 O'Malley's Hotel...... 24 B4 Old Fitzroy Hotel...... 42 A3 w S o 29

13 C Challis 32 y Original Backpackers...... 25 B3 Tilbury Hotel...... 43 A2 Ave a e 10 l c SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp52–66) Pink House...... 26 C3 Victoria Room...... 44 B5 McElhone a Stairs 21 M Coca-Cola Sign...... 8 B4 Regents Court...... 27 B3 33 Rockwall La 20 Elizabeth Bay House...... 9 C2 Royal Sovereign Hotel...... 28 A5 ENTERTAINMENT (pp98–101) Bland St Arthur McElhone Stairs...... 10 B2 Simpsons of Potts Point...... 29 C1 Govinda's Movie Room...... 45 B4 Rockwa ll Cres McElhone Sydney Jewish Museum...... 11 A5 Victoria Court Hotel...... 30 B3 Yu...... 46 B3 Nich Reserve olson S 43 t O B 9 il n ly SLEEPING (pp70–91) EATING (pp91–5) SHOPPING (pp101–4) 2 Wilson St s a Beare lo l rd P O w A Park Bernly Private Hotel...... 12 B3 bills...... 31 B5 Artery...... 47 B4 n ve s The Plunkett t Esplanade lo BLUE Sydney...... 13 A1 Fratelli Paradiso...... 32 C1 St S w La d Horder Manning St m R t ns A Crest Hotel...... 14 B4 Harry's Café de Wheels...... 33 B2 TRANSPORT (pp104–6) S McElhone St u a Pl l v Elizabeth c u e e 22 a c Eva's Backpackers...... 15 B3 Hugo's Bar Pizza...... 34 B4 Kings Cross Car Market...... 48 C3 Bay h s C rk rick t Ave I u u usculum Woolloomooloo T Highfield Private Hotel...... 16 B3 Onde...... 35 B5 Travellers Auto Barn...... 49 A4 o T

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INFORMATION SLEEPING (pp70–91) DRINKING (pp95–8) Moonlight Cinema...... 40 F3 OXFORD ST Ariel...... 1 B2 Cambridge Park Inn...... 14 A1 Cricketers Arms Hotel...... 26 B2 Oxford Hotel...... 41 B1 German Consulate...... 2 E2 City Crown Motel...... 15 B2 Hollywood Hotel...... 27 A1 Sydney Comedy Store...... 42 C4 Hughenden...... 16 E3 Lord Dudley Hotel...... 28 E2 Sydney Cricket Ground...... 43 C3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES (pp52–66) Sullivans Hotel...... 17 B2 Paddington Inn...... 29 D2 Verona Cinema...... 44 B2 Brett Whiteley Studio...... 3 B3 Sol's Deck Bar...... 30 B1 Centennial Park...... 4 E3 EATING (pp91–5) SHOPPING (pp101–4) Centennial Parklands Equestrian Arthurs Pizza...... 18 D2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp98–101) Bracewell...... 45 D2 Centre...... 5 C4 Bills Surry Hills...... 19 A2 Academy Twin Cinema...... 31 B1 Calibre...... 46 D3 Entertainment Quarter...... 6 D4 Bills Woollahra...... 20 E3 ARQ...... 32 B1 Collette Dinnigan...... 47 D2 Fox Studios...... 7 C3 Billy Kwong...... 21 A2 Aussie Stadium...... 33 C3 Hogarth Galleries Aboriginal Art Lollipops Playland...... 8 C4 Gusto...... 22 D2 Chauvel Cinema...... 34 C2 Centre...... 48 C2 Moore Park Golf Club...... 9 C4 Jones the Grocer...... 23 E3 Company B...... 35 A3 Leona Edmiston...... 49 D2 Parklands Tennis Centre...... 10 C4 Longrain...... 24 A1 Gaelic Club...... 36 A3 Morrissey...... 50 D2 Taylor Square...... 11 B1 Wildrice...... 25 B2 Goodbar...... 37 B2 Paddington Market...... 51 D2 Victoria Barracks...... 12 C2 Hopetoun Hotel...... 38 B2 Scanlan & Theodore...... 52 D3 Wooly's Wheels...... 13 C2 Midnight Shift...... 39 B1 85 CTRY CITY 0 500 m 0 600 m 86 GLEBE & NEWTOWN 0 0.3 miles EASTERN BEACHES 0 0.4 miles 87 CITY CTRY

Mu rriverie Rd

A B C D A B B C D e Johnstons o i r s o s Bay Sydney t n a Patterson Darling B i r S yn St a d Royal Golf B St sl la St INFORMATION Point B Bradley R l Williams s Gri l M e x Course White C o l e O' Pyrmont ll R R a Av ffith Donn Park o e Ave n ell Gleebooks...... 1 D4 u Bay d St

o v Lennox d e l Point tch l u i e p e Oakley R e e d n Park R ndar u r M St B a v 1 s r d R 1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES R d A S P Blai d St r St a t

Inner City Cycles...... 2 D3 r RiddellSt W a

k Benelon Bondi o 3 g 16 ar ir Sydney Fish Market...... 3 D2 Community Cres Beach Glasgown a W North Rd Birriga ve er Park Cooper Rd Beach Rd s W allis Bondi University of Sydney...... 4 C4 Simpson A A t r v Pd Park S y e Bellevue a A B H e Bondi n n ve ri a D John Hill e Curlewis Bondi Beach g s Golf Pyrmont Woollahra to l h t e Star City R t in SLEEPING St Square g H G t Public a o g Club n Bay n a R S m n s i i l s ll l o School s B P Alishan International Guest St s 40 A g l d o e St coe St ld v at vd e n Fletcher St W e e House...... 5 D3 O'Brien S ou Kendall S St t G 19 35 t 39Bondi Billabong Gardens...... 6 C5 Harris St P 1 17 41 y cliff Rd B Martins ve 34 r Edge o Ricka A 33 24 Park m Co 2 5 Glebe Point YHA...... 7 C2 A n Ave x r 12 NZ o Accord r e th D R AC n Ave Ave d d e a t P b m Hotel Unilodge...... 8 D4 Br t a S z id Bondi 25 l li s ge l g e E a St a n Tricketts Bed & Breakfast...... 9 C2 Little Mount y b e e t l e p e r Consett 26 4 e s Ave u e St m Wattle Guest House...... 10 C3 W Fish St e Q St N v l a A es Ben Eden e g C a v te Market s v Rozelle r Woo St E n St e d e n W r stock A dw D St Pope Bay str C A l 32 a E EATING rd Penkivil Ocean Paul VI 10 ria Blackwattle Henderson 31 2 Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay....11 C2 St Lookout 2 Reserve pe Park Ben St

3 St Green Gourmet...... 12 C5 Ada Pl B Im Blackwattle t ondi R t Francis Buckler y N S d S Bay n o Bondi 27 t Kilimanjaro...... 13 C5 l A a Castlefield t i Bondi t s t m v Icebergs Winter c Bondi St e o King a Bay Old Fish Shop Café...... 14 C5 t n t t Swimming Club Bicentennial B rd 11 t h u Junction S a S St L h S n o e ca S St Osteria dei Poeti...... 15 D4 Park i c h t d Waverly e 30 n C St Sandridge S R n k 9 a Ave D ett vo n Hunter d e o Spanish Tapas...... e 16 D4 MLR Park e s n A 7 R g Boonara e c t INFORMATION d Park Pde Park Federal i n Ewell r G Wentworth a St A y r Ph Gle Jubilee l r B e O illip C l e St St Global Gossip...... 1 C2 Park l r B t Park W e b Bir Dudley s e n re DRINKING Park n e F o ll St e A t Police Station...... 2 C2 T P m i S ll yr St h t e o Fl Badde Manors...... 17 D4 e et h n i T P Waverley cher Mackenzies t e n e St a l d S t e Tasman Point W La y Empire Hotel...... 18 A4 Salis g 18 C R l R bury v Tamarama o St Tamarama a n SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

r d Glebe A t Cohen Ernest r t v e a l W n S s Marks Friend in Hand Hotel...... 19 D3 S S Park i h sce t L o ac Park t e P i S c Aboriginal Rock Engravings...... 3 D1 n Pedersen n t S y f d i lo Park t ros r Gaerlock t St c Malt Shovel Brewery...... 20 B4 B g a e w e a r A Park D e y r C Bondi Beach...... C2 n 4 Wentworth r e f v G ll o i t e Reserve a l T v e r l u St e r S Newtown Hotel...... 21 C5 i M a B r v t r g h Park Read A m A Bondi Pavilion...... 5 C2 r u a Ashley M St a o D h a e W ickson St Darling a 14 Mackenzies t r u a P C Read La i a t r n St D n g r S a am Bay Bronte Beach...... 6 B3 l r e St e h i t k m Vic i Pa H D n tor l e a ENTERTAINMENT t llia ia St r mers wlett i t r o g t on Clovelly Beach...... 7 B5 Harold y n A St Lewis n R W nr ve Annadale Hotel...... Hinsby 22 B4 t S d e e Tamarama 3 Park d S t W H 3 R S H Clovelly Bowling Club...... 8 B4 Hoad rd t t n S Bay Dendy Newtown...... Park 23 C5 Raceway m fo Doherty a S t w Reserve ra re t B te Coogee Beach...... 9 A5 l o n ig e e a o Reserve r y Br e Enmore Theatre...... 24 B6 W H B view St in St James B r Dr H.J. ro S Ma Dive Centre Bondi...... 10 A2 10 u t Imperial Hotel...... 25 C6 Reserve t G B Bronte r M g Prospect St ip i 10 Foley h S ps S r D Giles Baths...... 11 A5 nog t o u St to r nte Park SandringhamB Hotel...... 26 B6 e Rest Park n e Ga o t rdy R Let's Go Surfing...... 12 D2 o C n p n 6 t S t e S h r h t 19 S t d e M S C5 t o S Vanguard...... t 27 s S J ueenSt Bronte Hogan Q McIvers Baths...... 13 A6 d ow n d R Crown St o o s 2 C i k R 5 u n Park r ns D b B 37 r a Tamarama Beach...... B3 o e h e G St n l ae S 14 Y g W l Glebe A t

d Jo rw e t SHOPPING i yn a r b Lugar St Ev Violet

t e e l Wylies Baths...... A6 e B 15 B S s n i t k n Pac Mt V a St if Glebe Markets...... D4 m t P 15 St M ic 28 S o n a t Lodge o L y c i S P r a n a h e erso ernon St l t r t n S a D 1 S t n e R F O d t SLEEPING rp d rw28 h St S e Francis St B an t n Varna Beach Road Hotel...... 16 C1 o Sc t 17 Chesterfield h St o o Catherine St S 16 8 Park St ol t t t Bondi Beach B & B...... 17 C2 C S T h re Carlton Pde rafalg e a k r St S Varna n Bondi Beachouse YHA...... 18 C3 t St Calga Knox D St e a o u L d Lake gla d s R S r o Bondi Sands...... 19 C2 St ge St t Reserve o id Northam B A r rand r by o r B n s Coogee Bay Boutique Hotel...... 20 A6 Science Rd ) Randwick St St Thomas Waverley t ) a y y u on Hw W e 4 rn es v B Cemetery 4 Nelson St t M Coogee Beachside e w t

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t n P ea nni a r Ma ng M d Accommodation...... 21 A5 (G R r s d yr n G d f t re R Young St R e le ps r vill t a E f e t Victoria S St B t S c t e a Dive Hotel...... 22 A6 m a u Boundary rra R n F r n St a s i n P Park o 20 h n d lbio t r i St E A e t t Grand Pacific Private Hotel...... 23 A6 e F P f i 22 Bisho i P ( t r St a i S r l e k s L a n t a L 18 St S ion d Barry b h l K A C Hotel Bondi...... 24 C2

R e k A y S St t Fewings u r N Clovelly r i rfsi 8 ve V d C2 C ine S M e a Indy's Surfside Bondi...... 25 S Ocean o Royal Prince Alfred 4 t A h Warne R t a ve P a r Percival Rd r c d S r C k t Hospital y cel Dans lovel A e La Ravesi's...... 26 C2 h Camperdown r ly The a Av ve l u d e Rd University n Ave E e Sinclairs of Bondi...... 27 A2 m Park u a v Creek o s M A b of Sydney B tb I D Batt 7 Wizard of Oz Backpackers...... 28 A5 v e o e ivis ry u Burrows i ion St rn e y r s St l s a Bundock Park e Me S lro n s n e t P Camperdown t de d Park d S EATING C Shark e Ave Velodrome o NEWTOWN n St Northwood St Rd t Point Johnstons d S Barzura...... 29 A6 r ch n Ave r de Al R Carillo i i a S n n so Hopetoun St Robert t a n R Hamilton d S t g L d e Salis ll Golden Grove Bondi Icebergs...... 30 C2 b St ury e Darlington t B Rd O pb o m n ' a Bondi Social...... 31 C2 C C Gordons F Moo C r d e o St s St Q o Boundary Bay Gelbison...... 32 C2 h n St R r Bardon St E u H n b Mount A 12 u La rcad g G e ia r e 27 e S Major n o t Fitzroy Park t Gertrude & Alice...... 33 C2 5 c a l e s Dunningham 5 e o r S h d n t S o n t B S s S e St l North Bondi Italian Food...... 34 D2 rg S t l Reserve e S t t u i g a r S g t n t Baden c n p i t o A n H i ish a k Sean's Panaroma...... 35 D2 B L u S a K ds n St S O U T H n s t Do a e S lph L t Camperdown Hollis in Dunningham Park P A C I F I C Siam Spice...... 36 A5 falgar r 6 l t St Tra St l a l 21 S Park Coogee O C E A N i Cemetery Swell...... 37 B3 a 14 t Stanmore B 21 Oval r 28 S 23 o t B St t S Alf e x w reda l u ar nno Coogee St em e n r DRINKING b L r Bay 9 l e 11 A 13 S Rd ) n y t 38 Beach Road Hotel...... (see 16) w 36 H S Kidman t s t Coogee Bay Hotel...... 38 A5 e MacDonaldtown St S c St 20 an n t Coogee Icebergs Bar...... (see 30) m ri Newtown S derson Rd o rty rt Hen 22 r P e C Bay e Septimus e ( lb Ca R A N rr h d b John St St i t H L S a e a St r e w v ENTERTAINMENT S g l d e e P t l 23 n t o 29 s y S B i o t a c Bondi Open Air Cinema...... 39 C2

t K w n a S il ve k Rd a S a A re i E R n 24 t l r t e t o e s All S nm i e k ick Ave E S o y i w R i en D r n R t ud i n 26 25 e J ley 13 m v e S e ill St SHOPPING S w e n R t i S d n r m b t o t t i o S y S d n t t Bondi Markets...... 40 C1 o G g t t d R k S Grant 6 E s 6

n S u R d e t d t r S S o s S t l St y S v Res g o Erskineville l 15 f e e e S A F en s t lm g v o Bro Neptune Wedding w t s u d TRANSPORT i S A Alexander ch o n tt n r i E r O a c llio itche t b St o r x e a ro A Cake Island Prospect St r e n i n d o S al n Bus Station...... 41 D2 e R o M t n g F R i St S d M M B t Trenerry R i Coogee Erskineville y r d e B A shmore Park Rain l Res St bow e Belmont St St s l A o dd Lawrence i W son Rd SYDNEY

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In a refurbished California bungalow a In a refurbished ) Hotel Bondi Bondi Beach B&B hill above Bondi Beach, this austere-looking Bondi Beach, this austere-looking hill above house has 25 rooms with varying bed con- merry figurations to suit you or your bus of stay It’s clean, quiet and low-key; pranksters. in party mode. if you’re elsewhere few hundred metres up the yellow brick road metres hundred few incl breakfast $66-90, f $110-127; incl breakfast MIDRANGE Beach Road Hotel [email protected]; 71 Beach Rd; s/d $70/85; pub two a big, boxy is part of hotel chipper Nautical décor blocks back from the beach. and nightclub eateries surfs through the bars, clean and bright with are to the rooms, which TV and decent bathrooms. Lose (or yourself beds. people) in the massive any number of dark (good or bad, rowdy after Things get it’s up to you). .com.au; 178 Campbell Pde; s/d/tr from $50/100/130; Let it all hang out at the landmark ‘Pink Pal- ace’ on Bondi Beach. Small, tidy rooms have bathrooms and faux- wardrobe-sized private and sometimes aren’t colonial furnishings, hordes down- far enough from the drunken view, you’ll a beach Still, if you have stairs. be laughing. .bondibeach-bnb.com.au; 110 Roscoe St; s/d/tw/f incl breakfast $100/150/150/250; your like this place feel go all-out to make Mediter- own home (only cleaner, and more close to all the good stuffranean). You’re in about Bondi, but you can also find a park. Ask and low seasonroom-only rates discounts. TOP END Ravesi’s Campbell Pde; d $125-295, ste $245-450; a briefcase on fits into the Bondi scene like but the shaggy,a beach, salty surfset don’t seem at to mind the suits necking Euro beers the 16 chocolate-and-cream Upstairs, the bar. many with balconies sophisticated, rooms are and ocean views. Coogee BUDGET Wizard of Oz Backpackers www.wizardofoz.com.au; 172 Coogee Bay Rd; dm $22-44; i place is painted this laid-back from the beach, in perhaps undersea palette, out in a muted, an effort incessant to subdue Coogee’s party

) i 9365 2088; 9365 2088; SYDNEY •• Sleeping % 9365 4900, www 9338 9911; www %

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Just 60m from the sand, Bondi Sands was ) Bondi Beachouse YHA Indy’s Sinclairs of Bondi courtyard on Balmain’s Darling St backbone, Not for the mild-mannered, beer-stained In- beer-stained Not for the mild-mannered, Central, with enormous dy’s is Bondi Party TVs surf murals, big-screen psychedelic and smelling vaguely of communal areas frenetic illicit herbs. Security the is tight, preventing the party. from crashing whole street a broader experience than most backpacker a broader experience than most backpacker Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com (Continued from page 75) Newtown BUDGET Billabong Gardens touring rock bands and joints, with travellers, lobbing up on all persuasions of urbanites Rooms come with or without the doorstep. bathrooms, encircling a central solar-heated pool. Balmain BUDGET Balmain Lodge 415 Darling St; s/d $80; have rooms here shared-facility the no-fuss, TVkitchenettes, chut- and DVD not much to sit in your room, not here zpah. But you’re you? Balmain has enoughare pubs, cafés and you entertained for weeks. to keep restaurants zone. Two disabled-access rooms; kid-free Bondi BUDGET Bondi Sands from $20/50; 252 Campbell Pde; dm/d incl breakfast sands.com; i the new owners on a highway to hell before sim- it back from the brink. Rooms are steered bathrooms; a few ple and clean with shared stunning views – ask for No 7, 8, 17 or have terrace. out, head for the roof 18. If you miss 63 Fletcher St; dm/s/d/f from www.bondibeachouse.com.au; $22/70/80/110; Bondi Beachousebeach, has clued-up staff, a pool table, TV play rooms, barbecue, free stuff etc) and Tama- (surfboards, snorkels, rama Beach It’s a spa. views from the rooftop friendly, clean, sunnyside-up kinda joint. Bus 380 from Circular Quay stops nearby. .surfsidebackpackers.com.au; 35a Hall St; dm/d $25/65; .sinclairsbondi.com.au; 11 Bennett St; dm $28; s $50-80; d & tw bonggardens.com.au; 5-11 Egan St; dm/s $25/49, d $66-80; bonggardens.com.au; pis Fish Blue Point D SOUTH OCEAN PACIFIC 00 0.2 miles 400 m

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u a L SYDNEY a dirty affair with(having their bumpedoff a dirtyaffair Grab thatperson you’resensational! having kind of way.Andthebeachside locationis CharlesBukowski a decaying,down-at-heel, anywhere neargrand,butoddlycharming in 220; .divehotel.com.au; 234ArdenSt;d&twinclbreakfast $150- Manly price topay. the beach –thebusridefromtownisasmall private room,50mto bathrooms inevery and green carpets, huge comfybeds,TVs a dive asitisfromthecity.Plush purpleand beachside midranger, about asfarfrombeing to lip-synch tothebandsdownstairs. earplugs fortheolderroomsifyou don’twant –bring have private bathrooms,fridge andTV suites inanewerwingonVicarSt.Allrooms old-school pubrooms,plusfancier,spacious Hotel are Coogee Bay casual, effervescent Coogee BayBoutiqueHotel MIDRANGE three-bed apartmentsforlonger stays. ney forawhile,theyalsohave one-,two-and rooms inaconverted Ifyou’re house. inSyd- clean doublesandtwinswithtidyshared bath- Bay Rd;d&tw$75) % fromatrue-crimenovel.end straight week- seaside andholeupfor aseedy spouse) bathrooms from$35/45/65) 6301; fax96656203;cnrBeach&CarrSts;s/d/trwithshared are lively. cue andbig-screen TV) communal areas (centringaroundthebarbe- fourto14slumberers;vibe. Dormshouse 90 .manlybeachhouse.com.au; 179 Pittwater Rd; s/d/tr$50/60/70; for small groups.Winter rates plummet. building) areapartments (inaseparate perfect The best roomsopenonto balconies;studio andenormouskitchens.international staff plenty of beds,boozy nocturnal activities, witha complexupstairs/downstairs affair option, thisconverted is ambulancestation $34/80/180; St;dm/d/apt 24Raglan 500; www.manlybackpackers.com.au; Backpackers Manly BUDGET of offers Ozuptheroad,Beachside simple, Vicar St;d$100-250, Manly Beach House Manly o Coogee BeachsideAccommodation Hotel Grand Pacific Private 9315 8511;www.sydneybeachside.com.au; i YNY • leig SYDNEY ••Sleeping ) Dive intoCoogee forthisimpeccable pi Dive Hotel Dive RunbythefolksfromWizard ) pa Manly’s most reliable budget (Map (Map p88 ;

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9665 0000;9 178 Coogee Mp p87; (Map % 9665 and movie keep thingshappening. nights ling gear, andarooftop pool.Pizza, barbecue There are free surfboards, bikes andsnorkel- clean, airy hostel will make youfeel athome. the newowners atthis the Northern Beaches, & tw$54-80,f$84-130; .sydneybeachouse.com.au; 4 CollaroySt,Collaroy;dm$20-39,d Collaroy Beachhouse YHA BUDGET North Shore inyourlaptop. if youdon’twant sand oceanfront balconies,orhittherooftop pool city’s witheringhustle. Checkthesurffrom Circular Quayandamillionmiles fromthe hotel is15minutesmid-rise byJetCat from onManly’sRight oceanbeach, thisdapper Steyne; dfrom$190; .com.au; 55North Pacific Manly TOP END the courtyardwhich canget abitstuffy. the heat,avoid theground floorroomsfacing stylish, cosykitchen. Ifyourwalletcanstand are elegantandwellappointed, andthere’s a Cove. Twelve roomswithprivate bathrooms acrossManlytorian manorfacesthesunset breakfast $135/165; 18-19EEsplanade;s/dincl www.periwinkle.citysearch.com.au; peach) ifyou’re feeling more ‘road’. an ’80s-stylemotel room(plentyof plasticand tennis andcableTV. half-court sauna, Grab beach. There’s aheated rooftop pool,spa, with balconiesoverlooking Manly’s ocean five, apartmentssleeping comfortable at these $220-400; Steyne;moteld$110-165,apt paradise.com.au; 54North There are onlytworooms,sobookahead. around orhaveknights atwangontheguitar. somerooksand grand pianoivories,shuffle areas. Ifit’snotbeach weather,plunkonthe has tworomanticroomsandsnugcommunal frangipanni tree, thisquaintfour-star B&B -manly.com; 101AddisonRd;s/d$100/150) 101 AddisonRoad MIDRANGE facilities are cleanandserviceable. able andhave alltherequisite localinfo. Shared onmaking prides itself walk fromthebeach. Polite management friendly, good-value option,afour-minute pi Periwinkle GuestHouse Periwinkle Manly Paradise Manly ) Readers recommend thishomely,mega- pas Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Mp p88; (Map p

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SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY Mon-Fri) master.com.au; St; StateTheatre, 49 Market .com.au; 195ElizabethSt; alternative musicvenues. to9pmThu,5pmSat,11am-5pm Sun)Servicing Fri, .com.au; Red Eye Records, 370Pitt EyeRecords, St; .com.au; Red harbour sideof Manly, thefabulouslywell- Ticketmaster Ticketek Moshtix following distributors: directlycan bepurchased fromvenues orthe club information.Tickets formostshows 3D World streetweekly magazinessuch as comprehensive listings.Free entertainment tion inFriday’s daily newspapers. PickuptheMetro sec- by clubsinthe’90s. scene isreclaiming patronssorudelystolen cuit ishealthyandinnovative. Thelive rock live-music pubs.Sydney’sjazzandbluescir- and clubs, outdoorcinemas,sportsstadiums After dark,thingsget busyin Sydney’sbars, ENTERTAINMENT pour yourself ontotheferry. dys after daycombatingthesurfthen asalty sunny afternoon beers. Tuckawayafew mid- designed Manly WharfHotel isperfect for h Hotel Wharf Manly MANLY the gills. terrace. Avoid weekends whenit’spacked to onthe enjoyed withajugof andaseat beer les’ superlative harbourviewscanalsobe toknowthatDoy- Doyles), you’llbepleased 98 7pm Thu & Fri, to4pmSat) 7pm Thu&Fri, Cinema listingscanbefoundinSydney’s by phoneoratthe gate toavailability). from7pm(subject and watchafilmon ahugeoutdoorscreen! What better way toenjoyabalmysummerevening thanto bringarug,picnicandmate, SYDNEY OUTDOOR CINEMA Open Air Cinema three-storey screen withsurround-sound, harboursunsets andswanky foodandwine. Royal Botanic Gardens; tickets adult/concession $18/17; tickets Royal Botanic Gardens; saltier. essential forboth venues. Bookings Nov-early Mar) Mar) Nov-early adult/concession $15/13; tickets Gate); .moonlight.com.au; Centennial Park, OxfordSt(Woollahra 11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat,11am-10pmSun) YNY • netimn SYDNEY ••Entertainment Open AirCinema (Map (Map pp78-9 ; (Map (Map pp78-9 ; and (Map (Map pp78-9 ; screens classicslike The Brag

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box 99 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY Annandale!’ ‘F*£kthis,I’m goingtotheand EskimoJoe. byJet, sets between theDandyWarhols puntersAfroed traverse thestickycarpet punkandelectronica. alt-rock,metal, nightly upheads Sydney’srockrevival, coughing live-music morgue inthe’90s and nowspear- Sun, to11pmMon) free-$30; dale; tickets nandalehotel.com; cnrParramatta Rd&NelsonSt,Annan- Annandale Hotel ROCK theirbacksmostnights. boss off office groupsshakevocal stylists.Raucous the with jazz,swing,big-band andaparadeof but SoupPluscontinuestolure cityjazzniks George Stcellarforslicknewdigswasrisky, from 8.30pmSat) &Sat$35; dinner &showFri Mon-Thu &Clarence Sts;tickets .com.au; cnrMargaret $10-12, James MorrisonandHarry Connick Jr. Past performers includeWyntonMarsalis, ney. Abrilliantwinelistaddstotheappeal. of dreams, jazzroominSyd- this isthesexiest 6pm-late Sat) Fri, from$10; Pl;tickets banq.com.au; 53Martin and swingdancingnights! ska,rockabilly, country-and-westernmetal, listen outforinternational artistsandregular bands withloyalfollowingsplayfree gigs; dirty withSydney’sbestbluesandroots.Local The Empire’s 300-capacitybargets down‘n’ free-$20; tickets live.com.au; cnrParramatta Rd&JohnstonSt,Annandale; spoken-word bythestage. gig.Bookatable and soulbandsperformingplustheodd funk,blues broad musicalmandate alsosees 100 ing pad forgarage bandson theboil. isstilla launch-bands, thediminutive ‘Hoey’ the uncontested crucible fornewSydney rock free-$15; andmoshing. –much beer affair purpose Silverchair. multi- It’samid-size,split-level, likegrown sonicassailants Wolfmotherand like The DarknessandTheStrokes, orhome- at theGaeliccourtesy of iconicinternationals h $10-30; tickets St,SurryHills; gaelicclub.com.au; 64Devonshire .hopetounhotel.com.au; 416 Bourke St, Surry Hills; tickets tickets St, SurryHills; .hopetounhotel.com.au; 416Bourke Hopetoun Hotel Club Gaelic Wine Banq Soup Plus Hotel Empire varies withshows) varies YNY • netimn SYDNEY ••Entertainment h noon-midnight Mon-Sat,to10pmSun)

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Mp p84; (Map 11am-midnight Tue-Sat, to10pm h % % 7.30pm Mon-Fri (livemusic), 7.30pm Mon-Fri % % 9299 7728;www.soupplus % 9557 1701;www.empire 9222 1919;www.wine % 9211 1687;www.the 9550 1078;www.an 9361 5257;www h noon-late Tue- Once

.com.au; 624 George St; tickets $25-65; St;tickets .com.au; 624George to bedesired. ster venues, thesoundqualityleaves alittle Eyed Peas andJamiroquai. Like mostmon- including Coldplay,SnoopDog, the Black holds 12,000howlingrockfans,recent acts of isplayed annually. Origin series The fever-inducing State NSWvs. Queensland ( Stadium opposite finals. ), withSeptember andAussie transpiring atsuburbanstadiums fromTicketekwww.nrl.com.au; tickets $20-40) passionate aboutthe the harbour. Sydneysiders are excruciatingly kicked andbatted on around,plussailing there’ll be all manner of ballsbeinghurled, Like towatch? Onanygiven Sydneyweekend Spectator Sports 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) punters. fordinner-and-show areMost seats reserved Crowegigsdonot… teria; occasionalRussell cri- these 1920s-themed bandroomsatisfies ing, intellectual, andartistic.Theintimate night Mon-Sat,to10pmSun) $8-12; St,Newtown; tickets 9325; 387King and visibility:r-o-c-k ROCK! Theatre-stylecause. tiers, air-con, supersound tothe InternationalEffect. DJslendweight localrockerswell-chosen like TheButterfly grace theMetro’s stage, like and TheEels noon-7pmSat) 7pm Mon-Fri, floors, lounge areas andbalconies. an old-timemovie hall,withcafé,wooden Harvey. The1600-capacitytheatre feels like ofQueens theStoneAge, andPJ LouReed wasted Enmore nowhostsalt-rockers like theelegantly playhouse, nally avaudeville 60; .enmoretheatre.com.au; $20- 130Enmore Rd,Newtown;tickets Haymarket; ticket prices varywithshows; prices ticket Haymarket; % metal night Sunday. night metal much money.Acousticactsupstairs; Goth- get rocked fromTuesdaytoSundayfornot live musichere, butthankfullyyoucanstill Sando’s renovations wouldspelltheendof from 8pm) $36, generaladmission$10-40; St,Newtown;dinner&showperperson from .com.au; 42King Sydney Entertainment Centre Centre Sydney Entertainment Hotel Sandringham Theatre Enmore Metro Vanguard h 9320 4200;www.sydentcent.com.au;35Harbour St, box office 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat) box office9am-6pmMon-Fri,

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5pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm performance nights) to8pmperformance 5pm Mon-Fri, Mon-Fri, 11am-8pmSat,1-8pmSun) Mon-Fri, .mlccentre.com.au; MLC St; Centre, 108King swathes of boutiques,cafésandbookshops. ton, GlebeandNewtown –long,sinuous are inner-city shopping stripsinPadding- Mall international fashion stores around CBD brimswithdepartment,chain and in centralSydneyisfastandfurious –the activity ratherthananecessity. Shopping Sydneysiders treat shoppingasarecreational SHOPPING Royal Theatre Theatre State Theatre Lyric Theatre Capitol ets from$50to$150)include: Broadway musicals,operaandconcerts(tick- company asjointartisticdirectors. chett andhubbieAndrew Uptonjoinedthe ‘Student Rush’tickets. Inlate Blan- 2006Cate Williamson andShakespeare. Ask about$20 David man) performworksbyAlanBennett, Australian actors Otto,DeborahMail- (Barry $20-130; Rd,WalshBay;tickets Hickson Theatre, Pier 4,5 1777; www.sydneytheatre.com.au; Wharf dance. forspecialistdramaand 850 bumsonseats Hillputs Theatre of atthebase Observatory ofthought before, theresplendent Sydney h $69-130; Rd,WalshBay;tickets .sydneytheatre.org.au; 22Hickson until 9pm. on Thursday –most stores night open stay souvenirs). shopping is(tacky Late-night city, while TheRocksoozes ‘Australiana’ the corner of Kent andBathurst Stsinthe There’s a cluster of outdoorshopsaround and retro fashiontryCrownSt,SurryHills. St,Woollahra.head toQueen Formusic Paddington isdesignerheaven; forantiques is Sydney’spremier theatre company.Major the SydneyTheatre across theroad,STC ing in 2004 with a name it seems odd no-one oddno-one ing in2004withanameitseems .statetheatre.com.au; 49 Market St; .statetheatre.com.au; 49Market mont; StarCityCasino,80PyrmontSt,Pyr- .lyrictheatre.com.au; h .capitoltheatre.com.au; 13CampbellSt,Haymarket; 8.30pm, from11amSat) Major theatres hosting WestEndand Company Sydney Theatre Theatre Sydney box office 9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, from11amSat) box office9am-8.30pmMon-Fri, box office9am-5pmMon-Fri) (Map pp78–9 ). Much more chilled-out h box office9am-5pmMon-Sat,from11amSun) (Map (Map pp78-9 ;

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101 9250 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY La, Paddington) books, clothingandCDs. paintings, boomerangs,didgeridoos, artefacts, back vibewithamind-boggling collation of 100% Aboriginal-owned, stirringupanout- from artistsandcommunities,or both.It’s directly orpurchased authorised licensed, only authenticindigenous productsthatare Harbourside ShoppingCentre, DarlingHarbour) ingly harmonious. Australian abstractart.Theresults are disarm- and didgeridoos withcontemporary white its, jumblingAboriginal artefacts, paintings non) takes anumbrella approach toitsexhib- (named after colonialbuilderMichael Gan- Aboriginal communities,GannonHouse St, TheRocks) at$25. starting hand-woven baskets andgorgeous canvasses modernindigenous jewellery, and affordable, Australianartists.Pricesare realisticCentral fromup-and-coming rary, originalselections Sydney gallery scene,sourcingitscontempo- Artery deliberately steers awayfromtheglitzy Artery Aboriginal Art has taken root. p84 ) where aprogressive cropof galleries swan aroundthe competitive. Ifyouhave afree afternoon, 102 Ways, GoodhopeSt,GurnerSt) streets orheadtoWaterloo’s Paddington laneway,HogarthGallerieshas Rd, Darlinghurst) Hogarth Galleries Hogarth The Sydneyvisualartssceneisedgyand Gavala House Gannon keep walking. keep –if the vendor can’t produceit,the artists test istorequest somebiographical infoon or community.Another good to theartist itbackhow muchofyourmoney willmake upfront, askexactly doesn’t paytheirartists andifthegallerydealer sellingoriginal art, suremake you’re buyingfromanauthentic popularity,nous cash-inonAboriginal art’s sure you’re notperpetuatinga non-indige- comes fromelsewhere inAustralia. Toen- Most ofSydney’samazingindigenous art BUYING INDIGENOUSART YNY • hpig SYDNEY ••Shopping

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9360 6839; 7 Walker 9360 6839;7Walker (Glenmore Rd,Five Danks St Gavala sells (Map Strand Hatters willcover yourcrownwitha to pinstripes and polka dots. ours range from luscious, sophisticated reds from the bestcottons,silks andjerseys. Col- exuberantly feminine, andfun,cut flirtatious dresses. Her designs have described as been Edmiston clearly knows athingortwoabout St, Paddington) eatyourheartout. Gecko Gordon tiesandbriefcases. sunnies, shoes, fabricsandcolours, plusbrand-name seasonal Sydney’s powerplayers withschmick suitsin Hip, high-calibre Calibre fillsthewardrobesof Calibre Clothes hatbandscostextra). teeth customers’ cranialrequirements (crocodile- blockandsteamfrom rabbit hatsto felt). Staff classically AustralianAkubrabush hat(made jeans andleatherworkboots. include oilskinjackets, Akubra hats,moleskin whilst referring toitas‘clobber’. Favourites sincere aboutsomething, they wanttoseem primeministersthe kindof stuff donwhen ofenough thishard-wearingoutbackgear. It’s customers. There’s atax-free concessionforoverseas to ‘Ifyouhave it…’. toask,youcan’tafford the relationship. Pricesrange fromabout $20 mering opals,thisistheplacetoconsummate wines. and aswaggering range of Penfold’s Grange home. Healthy walletscanaccessCubancigars shipment of NinthIslandPinotNoirback Yellowglen ororganise a forabubblynight andspirits.Pickupsome tralian wine,beer storebasement ispacked withqualityAus- Shop 3,GoldfieldsHouse,1Alfred St,CircularQuay) WineCentre Australian Australiana didgeridoos. ketry, framedprints,fabrics,spears and exhibits contemporary dotpaintings,bas- Strand Arcade, 412 George St) Strand Arcade,412George St) ists andsourcingup-and-comers, Hogarth art- art since1972.Honouringestablished supportingandpromotingAboriginalbeen St, TheRocks) Urbancowboysandcountryfolkcan’tget Leona Edmiston Strand Hatters RM Williams Flame Opals

Mp p84; (Map If you’ve been seduced byshim- If you’ve seduced been With two new stores in LA, Leona Withtwonewstores Leona inLA,

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This George jeans. Paddington) andSass&Bide andsassy;Mavi Structured devilish gear.devilish yourinnervixen in St)Release Strand Arcade,412George yard? We used to laugh a lot…’Thekidsare tolaugh yard? Weused School, cnr Glebe PointRd&Derby Pl,Glebe; Collette Dinnigan Collette Bracewell Hill Alannah ones. include these surf, butstillwanttolooksexy. that Sydneysiders spendalotof timeinthe in Zimmermanswimwear–theyunderstand just can’thelpbutfondle. ortheoffice,withfabricsyou for theevening Theodore excelinbeautifully-madepieces gals’ listsof favourite designers, Scanlan& Oxford St,Paddington) lonelyplanet.com lentil burgers andswathed in funkyretro crowded market. Oncemassaged, fuelled on city contingent beatsahazy course tothis Sat) Stevens records…dles, oldCat beads andearrings, aromatherapyoils,can- clothesandbooks, hippy funky second-hand up withBondifunksters rummagingthrough at thebeach onSundays whiletheirschool fills 4pm Sun)‘ Public School,cnrCampbellPde&WarnersAve, Bondi; about aprospective purchase. toconsultStAndy snack orneed Eastern church isopenifyouwantaMiddle itself jumble together like socksinadrawer. The clothing, jewellery,plantsandfruit andveg arts,crafts,books, gregational, selling stalls around theshadygroundsof StAndrews Con- Balmain Market Markets Wayne Cooper Morrissey credit card. Paddington) yourgold high-heeledstyle–bring Sexy, Hollywood’s Aussiegals. St, Paddington) Flouncybeadeddresses popularwith ling St & Curtis Rd,Balmain; ling St&Curtis ings anddiaphanouscocktaildresses. St)FeatherStrand Arcade,412George boas,fishnet stock- tion) 3048, WestfieldShoppingCentre, 500OxfordSt,BondiJunc- Scanlan &Theodore Some otherdivinedesigners tocheck out Zimmerman Swim Glebe Markets Glebe Markets Bondi Markets Sydney’s dreadlocked, inner- shoeless, Half of Bondi’sboobsandbumsare clad Remember thedaysof theoldschool (Map (Map p84 ; (Map (Map p84 ; (Map (Map pp78-9 ; (Map (Map pp78-9 ;

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9380 4722;372OxfordSt, h 9331 5844;274OxfordSt, Mp p84; (Map % % % % 8.30am-4pm Sat) % % 9221 1251;Level 1, 4237 7499;GlebePublic 9315 8988;BondiBeach 9221 5292;1stfl, 9360 6691;33William 0418 765736;cnrDar- % % 9387 5111;Shop 9380 9388;122 h Milling 9am-4pm h 9am- here are sideof alittleonthetacky thetracks high-Victorian masterpiece occupyingan St) 6869; 455George and acafé. nique), pluslingerie, sunglasses to big-namecosmetics(Chanel,Lan Chloe) hip fashions(WayneCooper,Seduce, floors, there’s seven bit. Over from everything tolivenmade aconcerted things up a effort Sts) direction. friendly concierge topointyouintheright St haswomen’sandchildren’s wearand a cal andahighbrow foodcourt;Castlereagh The Market Ststore hasmenswear,electri- DJs isSydney’spremier departmentstore. Castlereagh Sts) David Jones Shopping Centres&DepartmentStores still worthagander. (fossils, opals,faux-Aboriginal artetc)butare the aislesinawe. a VBsingletforuncleBruceorjustwander cavern inthiscapitalist 1000 stalls –pickup T-shirts andcheap sneakers. There are over and carpetsformobile phonecovers, Eminem hookahs butswaptheincense, Grand Bazaar, dy’s istheSydneyequivalentof Istanbul’s Hay &ThomasSts,Haymarket; take publictransport. massage andpalmistry.Parking – isamisery clothes andhipfashionstojewellery,books, Church, offering fromvintage upeverything ket congregates aroundPaddington Uniting Sat) John’s Church,395OxfordSt,Paddington; track. pipe andchill outtoanAfricandrumsound- gear, theyretreat tothelawns,passpeace & 193-5 Pitt StMall) of KingCharles I). ofthe Battle Hastings andhourlybeheading hyper-kitsch animated Royal Clock(featuring floors,fronts, mosaic tinklingbaby grandand shop- balconies,stained-glass wrought-iron ciality shopsare great, butcheck outthe entire cityblock.Yeah, sure, the200spe- The Rocks near Sydney Harbour Bridge; The RocksnearSydneyHarbourBridge; Sun) Paddington Market Paddington Market Strand Arcade Queen Victoria Building Queen Victoria Myer Rocks Market Paddy’s Markets Sydney’smost-attended weekend mar- Formerly thedowdyGraceBros,Myer has Underalongwhite canopy,the150stalls

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103 9265 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY destinations. airlinesflytosmallerOz Qantas-affiliated frequent cities.Smaller toothercapital flights and tralia. Both international pointsandfromwithinAus- bus ortrainrideapart. T2 andT3(domestic)terminals are a4km,$5 regulations.noise TheT1(international) and 11pmand5amdueto between cease flights making accesseasy,butthisalsomeans that delays. It’sonly10kmsouthof thecitycentre, ia’s busiest,so iftheredon’t besurprised are % Sydney’s Air GETTING THERE&AWAY able batandball. huge conceiv- RebelSportoutletwithevery shops,sushicoffee shopsanda bars, shoe have rewarded been fortheirpatiencewith Square toemerge initsplace. City-slickers in the’80s,butit’staken 20years forWorld department store onthissite wasdemolished & LiverpoolSts) music, cinemasandvaletparking. Jones, Myer,street fashion,jewellery,books, chutzpah toslovenly BondiJunction:David over styleand sixshiny it’sbrought levels, biggest inSydney.Withmore than300shops claims tobethebiggest inOz;definitely the 8000; 500OxfordSt,BondiJunction) herethrough considerablylonger. old-world coffee shopswill make yourshortcut floors of designerfashions,Australianaand Arcade rivalstheQVBforornateness. Three Georgespace between andPittSts,theStrand 104 Murrays Greyhound Firefly here:with offices card, shop around the major buscompanies Sydney. Ifyouhold aVIPorYHA discount stop inthesuburbs onthewayinandoutof is alsocomplemented bycoaches. Most buses The government’s CountryLink railnetwork % lers arrive at All private interstate and regional bustravel- Bus Westfield BondiJunction You canflyintoSydneyfromallthe usual World Square 9281 9366;CentralStation, EddyAve; 9667 9111;www.sydneyairport.com.au) Virgin YNY • etn hr wy There &Away SYDNEY ••Getting ( % ( %

( 1300 730740; www.fireflyexpress.com.au) Kingsford SmithAirport Kingsford ( % % TheoldAnthonyHorden&Sons 13 22 51; www.murrays.com.au) Qantas Sydney CoachTerminal 13 14 99; www.greyhound.com.au) 13 6789;www.virginblue.com.au)

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Mp pp76-7; (Map Mp pp78-9; (Map % have 9947 . central Sydneyhotels. return $10/18; concession, 15 minutes, half-hourly). Aone- concession, 15 minutes, half-hourly). way ride toManly on theJetCat costs$8 (no lar ferry costsadult/concession $5/3.Aone- Many ferries have connectingbus services. h Office hours. TheCircularQuay tourist attractionsoperate shorter servicing ferries those operate from6amtomidnight; (to Parramatta) –depart CircularQuay.Most bour ferries, JetCats (toManly) andRiverCats option–har-Sydney transport’smostcivilised FERRY Boat A one-waytriptakes about15minutes. fares are cheaper after 9amandonweekends. night daily) international terminal$13/19; gle/return fromCentralStationtodomesticterminal$12/18, Link Airport TRAIN $20 to$30. from Station from $25to$35;to/fromCentral A rideto/fromCircularQuayshould cost TAXI Bus Airport Manly SmithTransport Kingsford services. Bookings are forthefollowing essential BUS To/From theAirport Authority’s andfaretables deals, call theSydneyTransit For bus,ferry andtraininformation,time- GETTING AROUND cheaper thanbuses! nudge 40%oneconomyfares –sometimes departure times.CountryLinkdiscountsoften andarrival/ forinformation,reservations Call pp78-9; (Map is terstate andregional services Sydney’s mainrailterminus for Train Manly. Manly. $30/63; check www.131500.com.au. h A one-way inner-harbour rideonaregu- 7am-5.45pm Mon-Sat,8am-5.45pm Sun) staffed ticket booths 6am-10pm, ticket machines24hr) booths6am-10pm,ticket staffed ticket

Mp pp78-9 ; (Map h runs from city train stations; return runsfromcitytrainstations; 5am-11pm) A door-to-door service to/from service 5am-11pm) Adoor-to-door %

h ( Transport Infoline Transport % 13 22 32; www.countrylink.info; EddyAve;13 2232;www.countrylink.info; 5am-11pm) Connecting the airport and theairport 5am-11pm) Connecting 13 15 00; www.airportlink.com.au; sin- 13 1500;www.airportlink.com.au; % ( % 9207 3170;www.sydneyferries.info; 0500 505800;single/return h ( % every 10-15min, 5am-mid- every

9666 9988;single/ (STA; Ferry Information lonelyplanet.com CountryLink Central Station Central % has details. hasdetails. 13 1500) in- or .

Circular Quay tickets fromnewsagencies, BusTransitShops Wynyard Park Sq.Buy (YorkSt)andRailway midnight. around cease skeletally after regular services operate buses iced onlybybus.Nightrider Coogee andpartsof theNorth Shore are serv- runalmosteverywhere.Sydney buses Bondi, Bus Nightlights Toursadult/child$30/20. Darling Harbouradult/child$15/10;onehourand .watertours.com.au; Watertours Yellow Taxis Water booked. rides to/fromotherharbourvenues canbe plydedicatedWater shuttleroutes; taxis WATER TAXI concession $8/4(50minutes, hourly). ridetoParramattaway RiverCat costsadult/ lonelyplanet.com Vehicles get itinwriting. The agreed price –don’tacceptverbal guarantees, tobuy itbackatan car with an undertaking a car.or selling Some dealers you a willsell vehicles.newsagents, listssecond-hand ragavailable.tradingpost.com.au), aweekly at lots,andthe used-car a decentdeal.Parramatta Rdis linedwith but with abitof research youcanstillland of mistrust anddodgywheelers-and-dealers, car industryisaminefield The second-hand BUYING ORSELLINGACAR Car &Motorcycle George orElizabethStsonthewaybackin. George down orCastlereaghSts,ploughing depart thecityon limited stops.Mostbuses ited-stop express withanLhave routes; those Sq Railway Sun) are under$3.50.There are by thedoor. Fares at$1.70;mosttrips start or dunkprepaid tickets inticket machines Payand onbuses. thedriver asyouenter, Victoria Building Alfred & Loftus Sts; Alfred &Loftus Harbour Toursadult/child$25/15. Quay toDarlingHarbouradult/child$13/8;40-minute .yellowwatertaxis.com.au; Bus routes withanXindicate starting lim- Always read thefineprintwhenbuying The maincitybusstopsare CircularQuay, , Wynyard Station , WynyardStation

(REVS; (REVS; (Map (Map pp78-9 ; Mp p7- Gog St) George pp78-9; (Map %

h (Map (Map h SYDNEY •• Getting Around SYDNEY••Getting 13 32 20; www.revs.nsw.gov.au) (Map (Map pp78-9 ; 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat & 8.30am-5pmSat& 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map 9.30am-11pm) OperaHouseto pp78-9 ; h % pp78-9 ; (Map (Map Register of Encumbered ofEncumbered Register 7am-midnight) Circular Trading Post 9211 7730;www www.sydneybuses.info; cnr Bus pp78-9 ; York St) % , and the Queen , andtheQueen

TransitShops 9555 9778;www . Carrington St) Carrington (www is a at at , Wicked Campers Wicked teed buyback,warrantiesandinsuranceavailable. Cross; www.travellers-autobarn.com.au; 177WilliamSt,Kings wait forabuyer. Potentiallyhit-and-miss,butalwaysbusy. &Sat)Park9am-4pm Fri yourmachineinthecarparkand Cross; & ElizabethBayRd,Kings carparkLevel 2,cnrWardAvewww.carmarket.com.au; Thrifty Hertz Europcar Budget Avis and citybranches. have vans(andregular cars) at their airport also Thefollowing stalwarts you cansleep. painted vehicles withroominthebackwhere 5 .wickedcampers.com.au; Tenterden Rd,Botany; litre, andwassteadily rising. time of writingpetrolcostaround$1.45per require youto beover 25years old. Atthe and unlimited kilometres; somecompanies small car. sometimesincludeinsurance Rates topayaround$70perdayforazippy Expect RENTAL Autobarn Travellers Market CrossCar Kings carsselling to/fromtravellers include: organisations overseas andinterstate. with reciprocal arrangements withmotoring emergency formembers, roadsideassistance organises inspectionsandprovides 24-hour Roads &MotoristsAssociation (NRMA; p52 ) have proved tobenot-so-trusty.TheNational horror storiesfromreaders trustysteeds whose checked byacompetent mechanic –we’ve heard vendor, westronglyrecommend youhave it ers. The savvy staff can also organise tours. staff ers. Thesavvy lowmileage motorcycles andscoot- serviced, h scape.com.au; 183Parramatta Rd,Annandale;perdayfrom $80; read thefineprint! clapped-out wrecks atrock-bottom prices– companies, some specialisinginrenting The and ownedbytheseller. ensure thecaryou’re buyingisfullypaid-up government organisation thatcancheck to 4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 4pm Mon-Fri, If you’re lookingtohire acampervan, youbuyanyvehicle,Before regardless of the Bikescape Companies who specialise inbuyingand Companies whospecialise 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9-10am&4-5pmSat) 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, ( % h Yellow Pages ( % ( ( % % 13 6333;www.avis.com.au) ( 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,10.30am-3pmSun)Guaran- % 13 3039;www.hertz.com.au) 1300 367227;www.thrifty.com.au) 13 2727;www.budget.com.au)

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Mp p108; (Map listsmanyother car-hire Mp pp78-9; (Map (Map (Map p82 ; % rents outspectacularly h 1300 736869; www.bike % 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 1800 246869;www % % rents outwell- 1800 674374; 1800 808188;

9am- 105 SYDNEY SYDNEY SYDNEY $33/17. 10 inner-harbour ridesforadult/concession Circular Quayticket office are alsogoodvalue– concession $30/15. TravelTen ticket (innersuburbs)costsadult/ ous colourcodesfordifferent aRed distances; offers 10discounted bustrips.There are vari- ticket fromnewsagents andBusTransitShops newsagents costsadult/concession$33/17. STAstations, office TravelPass (innersuburbs)available attrain Red Aweekly nations of andservice. distance various colour-coded gradesoffering combi- ferry ridesatcheap rates. There weekly are Airport Express andExplorer busdrivers. atTheRocks( Sydney VisitorCentre p52 ) or from STA, Bus TransitShops, trainstations, the days).Buypasses days) and$165/80/410(seven $100/55/275 (three days),$145/70/360(five Theycostadult/child/family harbour cruises. JetCats,Explorer buses, andSTA-run RiverCats include theAirportExpress, SydneyandBondi Red TravelPass zone(innersuburbs).Passes on STA ferries buses, andtherailnetwork’s daysunlimitedfive travel orseven over aweek The Fare Deals .rta.nsw.gov.au forthelatest info. system willsoonbeelectronic–check www are cashbooths attollgates, but thewhole and M7)are alsotolled ($2.20to$3.80).There Sydney’s mainmotorways(M1,M2,M4,M5 mous CrossCityTunnelcosts$3.50one-way. Distributor;theinfa- bound tollontheEastern it’s easiertotake thetunnel.There’s a$4north- from theNorthShore Suburbs, totheEastern Harbour Bridge andTunnel.Ifyou’re heading There’s a$3southbound tollontheSydney ROAD TOLLS 5600; www.metromonorail.com.au; single circuit $5, day pass 5600; www.metromonorail.com.au; single circuit$5, day pass The privately operated Monorail &MetroLight Rail(MLR) child/family $33/17/81). sion $39/21/34)and the includethe These a return ferry and payingentryseparately. ( Office p104 ) work outcheaper thancatching ble fromtheCircular QuayFerry Information adult/concession $16/8. inner-suburban andferries trains,buses cost 106 Several transport-plus-entry tickets availa-Several If you’re a just catching buses, TravelPasses SydneyPass YNY • etn rud Around SYDNEY ••Getting DayTripper offer unlimited rail,busand

(www.sydneypass.info) tickets lettingyouride most ZooPass s, Bus TransitShops and FerryTen Metro Monorail Metro (adult/child/conces- AquariumPass tickets fromthe offers three, three, offers TravelTen

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.com.au; Wharf 5,Circular Quay; .com.au; Wharf formation Booth will beinvalid. exit thetransfer enroute oryour ticket station ticket toyourultimate destination,butdon’t listen. Ifyouhave tochange trains,buya tosomethingthat’ll too ifyou’drather talk but humansaremost stations usuallyavailable one-wayfare.standard until 4amthenext day,forlittlemore than a return ticket, valid you canbuyanoff-peak On weekends andafter 9am onweekdays of too. theotherCityCirclestations andusuallyoneormore Station, stop atCentral orGlebe. Allsuburbantrains Balmain Beaches, theNorthern andSouthern but don’tservice city-centreground CityCircle(seven stations), way toget around. Linesradiate fromtheunder- Sydney’s vastsuburbanrailnetwork isthedeft Train Taxis Combined Cabs Premier Legion Arrow Taxis ones. bookings ($1.40fee) includethese them ‘inbound’). them ‘outbound’,thereturning driver willincur ifyoudon’tincur tunnel androadtolls(even is 68cperminute. Passengers mustpaybridge, 20% from10pmto6am).Thewaitingcharge fall is$2.80,thenit’s$1.62perkilometre (plus Taxis andcabranksproliferate inSydney.Flag Taxi on theMonorailorMLR. ticketsand Saturday.Purchase onboard. 11pm SundaytoThursday, Friday midnight beyondPyrmonttoLilyfieldstopsat 2 service Chinatown andDarlingHarbour. TheZone andPyrmontvia Station Central between 30minmidnight-6am) 15min 6am-midnight,every sion $4/3,daypassadult/concession$9/7; Light Rail city. Thefulllooptakes about14minutes. worm circlingaroundDarlingHarbour andthe &Sat,8am-10pmSun) night Fri adult/family $9/22; .au; Zone1adult/concession$3/2,&2adult/conces- Twenty-four-hour ticket machines occupy Major companiesthatoffer taxi phone For train information,visit the Trains runfromaround5amtomidnight. Note thattheSydneyPass ( left ) isn’t valid Also privately run,thefuture-slick ( %

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% 13 2211) Mp pp78-9 ; (Map % 13 1017) every 4min,7am-10pmMon-Thu,every tomid- 9285 5600;www.metrolightrail.com 8332 8888) is a lugubrious elevated is alugubriouselevated h % 9.05am-4.50pm). 13 1500; www.131500 lonelyplanet.com h CityRail In- CityRail 24hr, every 24hr, every glides Metro www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright theterms andconditions onoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,or resell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake