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FEBRUARY 2017 ALL YOU THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO CAN DO IN THE CITY Venice ®

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GIFT IDEAS FOR THE FESTIVE SEASON

OUT OF TOWN NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS

TORCELLO Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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34 DINING ISOLA CARBONERA For a romantic candle-lit dinner, head to the Bistrot de Venise 52 ENTERTAINMENT restaurant SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO

44 SIGHTSEEING Convento di San Francesco del Deserto SHOPPING & MUSEUMS 22 Discover the largest Parco San Giuliano ISOLA DI TESSERA historic collection of Murano glass at Palazzo ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE Giustinian

52 ENTERTAINMENT TREPORTI Venice offers several of the most romantic settings in the world...

FEBRUARY 2017 ALL YOU THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO CAN DO IN THE CITY Venice ISOLA CAMPALTO

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Z I R O IE V RO MURANO A CAMPO B Chiesa dei Santi E L L SAN BERNARDO CAVALLINO TREPORTI A TO C S Maria e Donato RI F C L O E D N E art and wellness at D LL O CAMPO A CA R M SAN DONATO IST E E M N T T

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS This month's round-up of shows, ISOLA SAN GIORGIO Information and tips COVER to experience the best art exhibitions, concerts VIA FAUSTA "Il Ballo del Doge" at Palazzo 24 LUXURY TOP BRANDS V I A L E D E L L A L I B E R TA’ that Venice has to offer Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

Pisani Moretta, organized E A and performances Key looks for the season, from D ON Parco T

CANOSSIAN Monastero "Villa Groggia" LA RO GA Ospedale Fatebenefratelli DE Carmelitane Scalze R E A L L A SA N G IROLAMO San Raffaele Arcangelo E AL every year by Antonia FONDAMENTA SACC L C OVE AL U Rio di Sant'Alvise C C UOVE ALL E N E LARGA PEN CAMPO

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fashion and footwear to jewellery AL A FOND. O C PIAVE T Rio della Sensa Sautter. © Antonia Sautter C L A AL CARLO COLET E LE DEL F IT MEN P TI Santa Maria delle Penitenti CA

O L ONDA FOND R F O N D A M E F O E F N D A N D E E M E AME R N E N TA TA F O N L D E L PIAV NT S A L E D A M E N TA FON A N G I R O L A M O G C A CA DA Madonna dell'Orto CA P U Z Z I MENT NN S E AR N A L A E N MAD R S A . EG ON C NA IO F O N D A M E N TA B D ELL' ORT San Girolamo O and accessories. AT T E L L O 12 IT'S CARNIVAL! ARIE SAN MICHELE Ri o FO CAMPIELLO della N DAM E BECCDEL SCARLATTO FPonteON dei Tre Archi M E E L NT DA adon A D F O N D A M CO MENTA SA CANNAREGIOCAMPO FO na N LLE CAMPO E N TA M I S NDA DEI MORI TA dell'O R CA FONDAMENTA CA DI GHETTO NUOVO ME INI E R NT N A DEI E O I C O R D I GI T T rt OB T M o TI E A SA ORI BE Canale di Cannaregio R H IO N A NAREGIO VE G H RO A CAMPIELLO E C , Rio della Misericordia ON L C E TI DE LA LAVANDER C Museo Ebraico T AL V E C E VECCHI L S E LARG LA CERERIA I, FON From 11 to 28 February the city A AL T TE N San Giobbe C E D DE AR S A F ET M E CALL A EN COR M À RS TE R LA CALL CA NOV E E LLE PERLERI FA D

CA L T N E E L F A LL E MA O Palazzo Nani IO IS A N F ERÀ N I C O R T D A M E N M N DAMENTA TREV ordia E IA S L CA E RIO L ic TA BAZ NA NA CA L M I S ’A RI E O Rio L E D L SAVORG C FON.DA ALL d DE L E DEL e Servi E CAT E P CALL I IST OR NIELE CANAL R IC O R D I Abazia O E R CATEN N NTA INI E E CAMPIELLO A R L A CAMP S N della Misericordia A CALLE L SAN MARZIALE A C A A G C RIO TERÀ S. LEONARDO RIO FO S will come alive with parades, CAMPO T UN O ND ERÀ L F A Chiesa dei Gesuiti “FIVE STAR” E SAN LEONARDO N D IA I E F A le della Miser 36 D LE LA OND MENTA TRA LL R L NUOVA ISOLA MB MAD O CAMPO CA LO D IC ALE AMENT CA Palazzo Labia O ER ana FONDAMENTA Parco C NA S SAFFA I i RO E C A Salone del Tiepolo M l LL A P . A D Savorgnan San Leonardo, D OL to ES C N N R E S DEL TRONCHETTO P I DI I A s O I NTA R ET TE CA' N FO R o E E O L RÀ TA C L CAMPO U A CH La Maddalena VE AT Q E RIN IE CAMPO Ap C AL E SA CHE A L N IS A C SAN GEREMIA DR i AL Santa Fosca OL L RA FO DEI GESUITI LE C A A NDAM

San Marcuola C MI A NOVA STRADA L A D CAMPIELLO N E ENT L E A ZE E L C D STAY IN TOUCH E I C CAMPO E N L A DEL REMER Sant ALL A T EL FOND. C DEL TRO R LL A F ’ SAN MARCUOLA EN L San Geremia A M ei LE S.AND A E G CA FON I AGN AZ LA H PRIUL S N AN REA ET G Casino E S RGA D ER C d AL A D SP MAP PAGEST O 62-63 LE V T A A concerts, performances and VA o A PI ICO O i M NCH DI OLT L E EN L M I BO RESTAURANTS VE di Venezia I E I AI S.Marcuola R E T RD D C MENT C TERI E People Mover Venezia ETT FOND. S A D C A L NI C CAMPO DE LE E NO C e H A IA AL I RTOR VENI O d LE O A I L I VE n O E D » Museo LE ERBE Z ER L ALL VALL À LISTA a DE OND R r A C R L F Z e CAMPO G C L I l A FO O ISOLA DELLE TRESSE a Civico ST DE LA CARITA’ CO ETT TE n UL NDAMENT U olc a A I P I O R C C D E ALL

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O N O C YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® ® WELCOME TO VENICE whereMAGAZINE Venice www.where-venice.com WHERE ITALIA SRL Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach ([email protected])

EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL)

MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi

EDITORIAL COORDINATION Alessandra Finzi ([email protected])

MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida

MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) [email protected]

ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock

CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2016 - Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub

MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") Ladies and Gentlemen, congratulations! You are in a unique city, and PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT you’ve also managed to score a front-row view during the year’s most COORDINATOR Paola Grilli exciting time. It’s Carnival time! A month packed with festive events, ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto fashion shows, travelling plays and masked balls. The entire city is VENICE ADVISOR Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) alive with activities and, as you will notice, hundreds of Venetians HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata and visitors wander around wearing masks. But, don’t be alarmed: ([email protected]) even the most astonishing creatures, with their feathered headdresses CUSTOMER SERVICES Moreno Gallo, Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino and unrecognizable faces, have no intention of harming you!

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 They are simply celebrating an age-old festivity, one of the Lagoon’s WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH most deeply-rooted traditions, and a marvelous opportunity PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) to admire the skills of Venetian artisans.

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to On the pages of this issue and on our website, you can find detailed apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. information about the program, but bear in mind that the first part of

IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by the month is dedicated to mask-making, with the Carnival Village in Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl St. Mark’s Square; the middle of the month is all about propitiatory rituals (the traditional ‘Festa delle Marie’ or ‘Festival of the Twelve Marys’, and EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI the first masked balls at Palazzi), while the end of the month, coinciding VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE this year with the so-called ‘Settimana Grassa’, marking the end of HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. Carnival, involves parades, the best masked costume contest and the MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE most exclusive balls. CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III But, if you have come from another planet and booked a stay in Venice PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning during this period, and don’t know about Carnival, or if some business MADE IN Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the has brought you to Venice, and you hate chaos and masks, don’t worry, information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any boggi.com consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. our insiders have prepared a small Carnival survivor’s manual for you. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. However, you’re still in time to take part in the festivities. In the end, as the Published in association with Where® magazine ancient Romans, who actually invented Carnival, said ‘Once every year it is and the where® logo are registered legitimate to go crazy…’ Venezia | San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo) | Tel. +39 041 296.03.21 MVP trademarks of Morris Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. Elena Binda, Editor | c/o Stazione Santa Lucia - Fondamenta Santa Lucia n. 20 | Tel. +39 041 524.64.45 www.wheretraveler.com 3

WHERE VENICE 207x277 ed Febbraio.indd 1 10/01/17 19:27 [ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town MORE AT PAGE 45 called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. 

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto.  Canal Grande DANIMISRA

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower Ponte dei Sospiri PHOTO ©

EDITOR'S TIPS

Palazzo Ducale

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO CANAL GRANDE be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well This is the most important Catholic church Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful worth a visit.  in the city, and one of the most important street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the monuments in Italy. The original church main waterway of Venice. Lined on both TEATRO LA FENICE dates back to before the year 1000; inside, sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored a triumphant array of domes and transepts, churches, hotels and other public buildings, to its former splendour (the last time was mosaics and gold, marble and numerous it offers a journey back into history, evoking between 1996 and 2003), for centuries other treasures.  the pomp and splendor of the ancient La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal THE GHETTO PONTE DI RIALTO THE ISLANDS Serenissima.  stage for world-class opera, music, theater, The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was This is the oldest and most beautiful of Although the whole of Venice lies on an PONTE DEI SOSPIRI and ballet.  established in 1516. It is located in a secluded the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ A Baroque bridge that once connected SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO sestiere of Cannaregio and is celebrating Originally built during medieval times as generally means a half-day cruise on a Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE its 500th anniversary. A walk through ‘calli’, a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic DI SAN ROCCO ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to point to facilitate access to the popular and Burano, three charming, small islands, romantic sights. It can be accessed building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated A Renaissance complex consisting of a soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce rich in history and tradition. Visitors love when visiting Palazzo Ducale.  like lace. The architectural beauty of the church and adjoining palace, it was built as that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the and is lined on both sides by shops. It these islands, and there may be a risk of not stairwell, combined with the view that can a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was ‘Merchant of Venice’.  includes as many as 120 steps.  finding a seat on the boat.

4 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES FEBRUARY

FROM SATURDAY

JOIN IN THE FUN!

At last! Today is the first day marking the official celebrations for Carnival 2017, with festivities lasting until 28 February. 11 As is customary, this year it will once again feature an action-packed program, lasting until the end of the month, with processions on water, masked balls, competitions to elect the best disguise and iconic happenings, renowned throughout the world.

The first event commences this evening with the first part ofFesta ‘ Veneziana sull’acqua’, a performance on the banks of Cannaregio, in which a procession of Carnival-themed boats sail along the canal (at 6pm, with a repeat performance at 8pm). The Festa Veneziana continues on Sunday 12 with a water parade by the Associazioni Remiere and food and wine tastings featuring Venetian specialties (starting at 11am). Prepare your mask and get ready to join in the fun!

Carnevale di Venezia Venice and surrounding areas For a detailed program, read our Focus on page 12, visit our website www.where-venice.com or consult the official Carnival website at www.carnevale.venezia.it

FEBRUARY HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating tradition, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. © SHUTTERSTOCK

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SATURDAY MONDAY THE FORCE OF NATURE ► The appeal of the Arctic region, 13 an awareness of 27 topics related to environmental sustainability and climate change 20TH are the themes explored in ‘Arctico. CENTURY The Final Frontier’. The exhibition ARTISTIC features 120 black and white images by Paolo Solari Bozzi (Rome, 1957), IMAGERY Ragnar Axelsson (Iceland, 1958) and ► Last week to Carsten Egevang (Denmark, 1969), visit ‘Around Klimt. three masters of photo reporting Judith, Heroism whose work explores the landscapes and Seduction’, and people of Greenland, Siberia, an exhibition Alaska and Iceland. Until 2 April. marking the launch WEDNESDAY The exhibition is set against the of a series of spectacular backdrop of "Casa dei Tre initiatives designed Oci", a splendid example of early © PAOLO SOLARI BOZZI, SERMILIK FJORD, GREENLAND, 2016 PEGGY GUGGENHEIM to promote the 20th century Venetian architecture CELEBRATES ITALIAN ART extraordinary and a building which, as such, has ▲ Featuring over ninety works, this much- heritage of been declared a monument of awaited retrospective marks the return to artworks preserved historical and artistic interest in the 15 Venice of Tancredi Parmeggiani (1926–1964), at Venice’s Civic Veneto region. among the most original and prolific Italian painters of the Museums. Focusing second half of the twentieth century. Tancredi was the only artist, on one of the most Artico. The Final Frontier after Jackson Pollock, whom Peggy Guggenheim placed under fascinating legends of biblical tradition, the exhibition Casa dei Tre Oci contract, promoting his work and organizing shows, including features more than 80 works revolving around the theme Giudecca - Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 one in her own home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, in 1954. More of Gustav Klimt’s gloriously erotic masterpiece, Judith II Open daily 10am-6pm (closed on Tues) than sixty years on, Tancredi returns to Palazzo Venier dei Leoni (Salome), on loan from Ca’ Pesaro for the occasion. This www.treoci.org powerful 20th century icon, created by the renowned with this retrospective exhibition which, through a selection of © CARSTEN EGEVANG, WEST GREENLAND, THULE, 2013 © RAGNAR AXELSSON, ICELAND, 2016 exceptional paintings, reconstructs the brief and convulsive career Viennese artist and presented at the International Art of this great postwar artist. Until 13 March. Biennale in 1910, has inspired a series of ancient and UNTIL TUESDAY contemporary imagery. Until 5 March My Weapon Against the Atom Bomb is a Blade of Grass. Attorno a Klimt. Giuditta, eroismo e seduzione THE FANTASTIC UNIVERSE Tancredi. A Retrospective Mestre, Centro Culturale Candiani OF HAN MEILIN Collezione Peggy Guggenheim. Piazza Luigi Candiani, 7 ◄ Exhibited for the first time in Europe, Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni). www.guggenheim-venice.it candiani.comune.venezia.it - www.visitmuve.it the exhibition by Han Meilin (1936), the only Chinese artist ever to be named a GUSTAV KLIMT, GIUDITTA II (SALOMÉ, 1909 ). CA' PESARO - GALLERIA INTERNAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA. II (SALOMÉ, 1909 ). CA' PESARO - GALLERIA INTERNAZIONALE D’ARTE GIUDITTA KLIMT, GUSTAV 28 ‘UNESCO Artist for Peace’, ends today. Showcasing more than 200 masterpieces, on loan from museums in Beijing, Hangzhou FRIDAY and Yinchuan, Meilin’s works feature an unmistakable imprinting and are inspired by A UNIQUE PERFORMANCE ancient Chinese civilization reinterpreted ◄ This evening (8.30pm), Massimiliano Finazzer in a contemporary key. Free admission. Flory (see photo), director and actor, will perform The World of Han Meilin in Venice a dramatic reading from “La nuvola in calzoni” Ca’ Foscari Esposizioni poem, dedicated to the life and poetry of the 24 Dorsoduro, 3246 renowned Russian poet and playwright www.unive.it Vladimir Majakovsky. The performance will then travel to Milan, Rome, St. Petersburg and Moscow. Reservation compulsory at [email protected] Majakovskij a voi! by Massimiliano Finazzer Flory Università Ca’ Foscari, Auditorium Santa Margherita. Dorsoduro, 3689 www.finazzerflory.com

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ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE FROM THURSDAY

JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House. 16 FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.

APRIL Festa di San Marco / Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial > (29 April) Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. ON THE STAGE OF VENICE Among the most famous and widely performed operas in the world, Giacomo MAY ▲ Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 27-28 May) > Puccini’s La Bohème was staged for the first time at the Teatro Regio in Turin. A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate Conducted by the then twenty-nine year-old Arturo Toscanini, it was well received the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ by the audience but condemned by the critics. Currently showing at the La Fenice (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Opera House in Venice, it is based on the 2011 adaptation by director Francesco Micheli, with stage sets by Edoardo Sanchi and costumes by Silvia Aymonino. JUNE/JULY Set in colourful, decadent Belle Epoque Paris, the opera, scheduled to run for ten Vogalonga (4 June) > 43rd edition of the 30 km rowing evenings, is supertitled in Italian and English. marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, La Bohème, Giacomo Puccini Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public. La Fenice Opera House Biennale of Art “VIVA ARTE VIVA” San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin) (13 May-26 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > www.teatrolafenice.it 57th international exhibition of Contemporary Art Biennale of Dance > (23 June-1 July) Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello.

JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August) WEDNESDAY

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice. 8 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER THE FASCINATION OF WATER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > ▲ When visiting the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi for a spot of shopping, don’t miss One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by ‘Under Water’, the evocative installation by Fabrizio Plessi on stage at the a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Event Pavilion. This site specific project created by the internationally renowned Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) artist is a tribute that blends art with technology and history. Resembling a giant Venice Marathon (22 October) Byzantine mosaic, just like art, which according to Plessi is fluid, ever-changing and dream-like, it undulates softly thanks to the gentle, almost elastic motion of NOVEMBER the water. Until 2 April. Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. Under Water by Fabrizio Plessi Event Pavilion DECEMBER T Fondaco dei Tedeschi top floor Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi - Ponte di Rialto www.tfondaco.com - www.fabrizioplessi.net

10 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 WHERE NOW | FOCUS It’s Carnival!

Up until 9 February, St. Mark's will once more become an 18th century square, a one-of-a-kind place where artisan workshops produce amazing costumes. Then, from the 11th to the 28th, the city will come alive with parades, concerts, performances and grand balls. Get ready to join in the fun! BY ELENA BINDA

here are times when a city reveals its real soul. These comprise events involving months of preparation, which the locals consider a part of their identity. Ultimately they manage to transform these into occasions of such Timportance that they attract visitors from all over the world. Like the Palio in Siena or the Jubilee in Rome, Carnival in Venice is the highlight of the year. Among the most celebrated carnivals in the world, it offers delighted tourists dozens of events, concerts, balls, performances and parades (for more detailed information visit the official carnevale.venezia.it website or venice-carnival.org). In fact the city is packed to overflowing and prices soar sky high, but the beauty and poetry of Carnival are definitely worth it. Prepare your masks and enjoy the party!

ANCIENT ROOTS The history of Carnival is both recent and ancient. It was only during the second half of the 20th century that the Carnival of Venice became an event that attracted sponsors and television stations. However, the origins of the festival date back to ancient times. In Greek and Roman society there were periods during which people were allowed to take liberties denied to them during the rest of the year. Protected by masks, poor people were allowed to make fun of the rich without being punished: the Romans used to say ‘semel in anno licet insanire’ (‘once every year it is legitimate to go crazy’), while according to an Italian proverb ‘a Carnevale ogni scherzo vale’ (‘at Carnival anything goes!’). This reversal of the rules was an invaluable outlet used by the authorities to SHUTTERSTOCK keep the populace content. Later, when Christianity

took over, the festival was transformed into the last PHOTO BY DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © DFS GROUP.JPG PHOTO ©

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FAITES VOS JEUX The Official Dinner Show and Ballo del Carnevale di Venezia 2017 will be held at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi, the headquarters of the Casino. Not just a dinner, not just a masked ball, not just a performance and not just an evening dedicated to gaming, but all of these things rolled into one. The event (from 9pm to 2.30am) will be repeated on different dates between 18 and 28 February. Ticket prices range from €400 to €500 per person. Info at www.casinovenezia.it. SHUTTERSTOCK PHOTO COURTESY VELA SPA PHOTO COURTESY PHOTO ©

period of merrymaking prior to Lent, which naturally! For this reason, from 30 January Saturday 18 February is the day dedicated nominated by those gathered in the square, hiring options abound and the organizers PLAN B is the period of repentance preceding Easter. to 9 February, an example of 18th century to the ‘Twelve Marys’, an ancient tradition guaranteeing fun and entertainment for themselves often suggest addresses). This But what happens if you hate Carnival, or have Although dates differ slightly, Carnival is Venice, a golden age for the city and its festival, that involves choosing the most beautiful everyone. Non-competitive parades continue year’s official ball, at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi been brought to Venice on urgent business celebrated in all Catholic countries. It has is resurrected in St. Mark’s Square. Atelier costumed girl. In olden days, a young woman after the grand finale until Shrove Tuesday with (the seat of the Casino of Venice, info at during this period? Well, there’s no point hiding retained the original custom of wearing Pietro Longhi, Atelier Nicolao, Tessitura Luigi of the people won a marriage dowry, but two events dedicated to children on the 27th, www.carnevale.venezia.it), is called ‘The it, you’re in for a few rough days. The city is masks, with the addition, over time, of Bevilacqua, Tessuti Fortuny and the Politecnico today the lucky winner has the honour of and one dedicated to adults on the 28th. Gallery of Wonders’, and is held on several packed with people, St. Mark’s Square is almost numerous other rituals. In Venice, this festival Calzaturiero, the best textile manufacturers, being crowned the ‘Angel’ of next year’s From 18 to 28 February, visitors can different dates. However, the most sought- inaccessible and prices are sky high. However, acquired increasing importance during the shoemakers, costume makers and ‘mascareri’ Carnival. The ‘Volo dell’Angelo’ (Flight of the participate in the ‘Secrets of Venice’ event, a after of all is the ‘Il Ballo del Doge’. Now Where® has an alternative plan for you. Read golden age of the Repubblica Serenissima. (mask-makers) gather in a sort of ‘Carnival Angel), one of Carnival’s most eagerly awaited traveling show for the whole family, featuring in its 24th consecutive year, it is organized our small survivor’s guide (pages 16-17). Or…join The festivities were highlighted by the many village’, a combination of toy land, and an events, takes places on Sunday 19 February several performances a day in Italian, English by Antonia Sautter and, as always, is also in the fun! As the ancient Romans used to say, symbols that marked Venice’s success as a historic re-enactment for those in search of at midday, when a young girl wearing and French, chronicling the history of Carnival. held on several different dates at Palazzo going crazy once a year is legitimate! maritime power. These symbols included the unique disguises. Costumes can be made traditional costume ‘flies’ from the top of St. Tickets: €29. Info at www.venice-carnival.org. Pisani Moretta. Other balls include the ‘fireworks’ discovered by Marco Polo in China, to measure (this refers to precious artisanal Mark’s bell tower to a stage on the opposite ‘Casanova Grand Ball’ at Palazzo Zen, and the many influences from the East creations, recreated with philological accuracy), side of the square. The girl, who is strapped to DAMES AND KNIGHTS: CARNIVAL BALLS the ‘Mascheranda’, the ‘Tiepolo’ at portrayed in costumes emulating those worn or hired (prices range from 180 to 600 euros a a safety harness, is welcomed in total silence For many, the ‘Grand Carnival Ball’ is a Palazzo Pisani Moretta by Moors, Turks and Tartars encountered day for him and up to 6,000 euros for her). The by crowds, often numbering as many as 80,000 dream come true, and thus deserves a (www.antoniasautter.it), the during explorations around the world. The Square is also inundated with carpenters and revelers, who have gathered in the square to separate mention. Midway between a ‘Carnival in Love’ at Palazzo Doges used the opulence of the festivities stone cutters, glass and gondola makers: watch the event. historic re-enactment and a dinner show, Benzon (organized by as a measure of their power, and thus, these no traditional craft has ever been excluded On Saturday 18 February, the first contest a traditional date and an exclusive party, www.sognovenezianoatelier. celebrations became even more grandiose. from Carnival! for the ‘most beautiful mask’ kicks off in St. the ‘grand ball’ is an integral part of Carnival. com) and the ‘Minuetto Gran Artisans adept at working leather, textiles, Mark’s Square. The contest is open to anyone In the past, these balls were organized by Gala’ at Palazzo Albrizzi. wood or glass used Carnival as a proving ST. MARK’S SQUARE, wishing to parade their mask on the stage the Doges or the city’s noble families to Several hotels also organize ground to hone and demonstrate their skills: THE HEART OF THE FESTIVAL set up in the square (although participation entertain their guests, while today they have sumptuous parties including costumes and footwear, masks and stage This year, the festival loved by Giacomo is free, contestants are required to download become an opulent means of celebration for the Hotel Monaco & Grand sets became increasingly elaborate and Casanova, Princess Sissi, Goldoni, Wagner, and complete the form available online at Venetians and an almost irresistible attraction Canal with its ‘Carnival impressive, and continue to be a triumphant George Sand and Lord Byron, once again www.carnevale.venezia.it, which also provides for tourists. Although different versions exist Extravaganza’ and ‘Minuetto part of Venice’s cultural heritage. boasts an events calendar that will not detailed information regarding all Carnival (they are all sought-after and expensive, with al Ridotto’, and the Hotel disappoint. Festivities start on Saturday, activities). This contest takes place several average prices starting at around €500 per Splendid Venice with the THE “FABRICA” OF 18TH CENTURY 11 February with the Festa Veneziana times a day throughout the Carnival period. person, and tickets to the most exclusive ‘Ultimo Valzer a Venezia’. WORKSHOPS sull’Acqua, a performance of lights and sound Qualifications for the grand finale, scheduled balls going for as much as €800), one rule For detailed information visit the What do you do in Venice in the days leading held on the banks of Cannaregio (repeated on to be held on Sunday 26 February, take applies to all of them: wearing a costume www.venice-carnival.org website up to Carnival? You make preparations Sunday 12, see page 6). place from 23 to 25 February. The winner is is compulsory (as previously mentioned, or ask your concierge. EMI BOUTIQUE

14 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | FOCUS A survivor’s guide to Carnival Here are some tips from two genuine Venetians to help you avoid the most crowded areas during these crazy February days: behind the mask, it’s always Venice! BY ELENA BINDA

OASES OF PEACE On the previous page, the Ca’ d’Oro in the sestiere of Cannaregio. Although its façade overlooking the Grand Canal is one of the best-known in Venice, the interior of the palazzo, which hosts a remarkable art gallery, is never very crowded. Above, a magical view of Punta della Dogana, with a profile of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute in the background. On the right, the Arsenale which, in addition to housing relics of the Maritime Republic of Venice, also hosts interesting temporary exhibitions. PHOTO: DIDIER DESCOUENS PHOTO: DIDIER DESCOUENS

hoosing areas not packed STEFANO TRAINE San Barnaba… If you continue a little D’oro, a beautiful, late Gothic palazzo that with tourists, staying as MARKETING MANAGER further inland, you’ll reach Campo Santa hosts a spectacular art gallery. Indulge in a far away as possible from A ‘cultural’ break is a good escape option: Margherita, with its old coffee bars. few hours of relaxation for the mind and the St. Mark’s Square and the the program offered by the padiglioni body at the spa of the Boscolo Hotel Dei

most crowded shopping dell'Arsenale is always interesting (in ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO Dogi. Do something unconventional, like PHOTO: DIDIER DESCOUENS districts, taking refuge in a addition to historic craft, its pavilions also TOURIST ADVISOR having an aperitivo at the Fondamenta della quiet gallery or visiting a museum, finding host plays and exhibitions, see arsenale. Tip number one. Avoid taking any public Misericordia: one of the best-loved venues C  Grand Canal atmospheric venues known only to locals, comune.venezia.it). If the weather is good, transport that passes along the Grand Canal! in this area is Al Timon. However, be sure to  Santa Croce Cannaregio Isola di San Michele  Jewish Ghetto enjoying an unusual shopping experience: the ideal place for a walk is the ‘Zattere’ area Take advantage of the external lines to get go there at lunchtime, because it gets very Ca' d'Oro these survival guidelines are known to all (sestiere Dorsoduro, along the Giudecca around (vaporettos 4.1, 4.2 and 6) or travel crowded in the afternoon. The same area    Fondamenta della Misericordia Venetians, but – obviously – should appeal Canal): from the Pinault Museum in Punta on foot, making sure to circumvent St. Mark’s is also home to the newly opened l’Osteria    Arsenale to individual tastes. della Dogana, to San Basilio, you can Square and the main thoroughfares. For a Giorgione: Anna, the sommelier, will help you San Polo Zattere Where® offers you two alternatives which enjoy an aperitivo on its terraces or pier, pleasant outing, head to Cannaregio, where choose the perfect wine. And, if you want to Castello    Giudecca Canal you can enjoy at leisure, whether you want while watching the ships go by. When it the presence of the Jewish Ghetto, which take home a souvenir of your narrow escape, Dorsoduro San Marco   Punta della Dogana to completely avoid Carnival (which frankly, comes to eateries, you’ll be spoilt for choice. celebrated its 500th anniversary this year, stop in at PlumPlum Creation and indulge in a     Campo San Barnaba is a rather ambitious undertaking…) or Our picks include the Linea d'Ombra, the makes the tradition of Carnival less noticeable. beautiful engraving, a small painting or even  simply take a break from all the confusion. Cantinone Schiavi, whose ‘cicchetti’ are truly To find a little peace without foregoing the just a postcard featuring original images of   Campo Santa Margherita Giudecca Here are some insider tips to save you noteworthy, or La Piscina, Agli Alboretti joy of taking fabulous pictures overlooking Venice: it will be fun to look at or to give as a Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore from the madding crowd. and the Ristoteca Oniga in Campo the Grand Canal, take shelter inside the Ca’ gift on your return home.

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▼ POP ART-GALLERY Featuring authentic Murano glass pearls, ► VETRERIA DUCALE this jewelry is the perfect gift for those Specializing in precious glass objects wishing to take home a touch of Venetian for lighting, mirrors, sculptures craftsmanship. They can be purchased GIFT and tableware, this Murano- at the Pop Art-Gallery, located just steps based company manufactures from the Academy (Dorsoduro, 880/B-C. unique pieces based on in-depth San Vio). GUIDE research. Entirely handcrafted by master glassmakers, like these During the time of the coloured vases, they are available in year dedicated to masked contemporary or antique versions. www.ducalemurano.com balls and Carnival parades, ▲ CA’ MACANA the whole city comes alive This unique ‘Face Betty3’ mask is with themed activities. crafted by one of the oldest and finest mask-making workshops in Boutiques and artisanal Venice. An innovative rendition shops are dressed with of Venetian artisanal tradition, glittering window displays. interpreted with style and ® meticulous attention to detail. Where brings you a pick www.camacana.com of several of the most original handcrafted items that make this city unique, pieces that can be taken home as a souvenir of the magical atmosphere of the Lagoon. ◄ SOGNO VENEZIANO ATELIER ▼ EMI BOUTIQUE Experience all the glamour of Carnival Located in Calle della Mandola, in the sestiere with masks and period costumes that of San Marco, Emi Boutique offers priceless exalt the city’s magical, mysterious collectors’ masks. This ‘wall mask’ mask is part of a atmosphere. High-quality tailoring and collection inspired by 17th century Venice with craftsmanship, enhanced by a decidedly Parisian influences. It is entirely handcrafted in creative touch are the hallmark features of this atelier. papier-mache with fabrics that conjure up antique ▼ LA CERAMICA www.sognovenezianoatelier.com Venetian brocades. Called ‘Mexico’, this brightly-coloured set of original Bassano del Grappa ceramic pieces is handmade according to ancient tradition. San Polo, 1160 (Campo San Aponal).

▲ VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Renowned for their exquisite artistic glass, Vetreria Estevan Rossetto has been producing priceless glassware collections for decades. Guided tours to the family’s furnace in Murano are organized daily. Shown here is a set of clowns. www.rossettomuranoglass.com

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The island is the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands The island of Burano to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful to woman to finish. Groups of women work houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. By Stefano Traine diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. For example, though it can take up to five months to make a rectangular tablecloth for 12 people, the island’s lace makers are now equipped to deliver your item of choice to anywhere in the world. (Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted item takes hours of work, you need to be cautious if the price seems too low. The risk that the lace is not handmade and not even Venetian is now a sad reality). While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Burano, Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 187).

BISCUITS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped), are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. Here is our pick, among the many, of several historic eateries. Da Romano (famed Zilli for its ‘risotto di Gò’); Da Ruggero al Gatto Nero (all the pastas and desserts are made in-house, and the fish is so fresh and delicious that even Jamie Oliver has recommended Al Gatto Nero on his television show); and finally Ai Pescatori e Dal Vecio Pipa. Bon Apetit! POCKET BURANO A little less famous than its twin, Murano rainbow, are truly spectacular! However, HOW TO REACH BURANO You can also take the - the island of glass, with which it is often the origin of this tradition of painting the One Vaporetto line runs from Venice houses of Burano home as confused, due to the similar names (only the houses in bright colours was not only for to Burano: the number 12. The journey a souvenir. On the island first letter changes), lace, in no way inferior to aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its lasts for approximately one hour after you can find a number of its sibling’s blown glass, has made tiny Burano fishermen, often confused by frequent banks embarking at the Fondamente Nove artisans specializing in the famous. With a population of only three of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount of stop (the Vaporetto runs at 10 minutes reproduction of brightly thousand inhabitants, its colourful houses liqueur consumed to keep them warm…), past and 20 minutes to the hour). If coloured, miniature districts. make it is one of the most picturesque places devised a chromatic code that would help you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians However, the noblest craft of on earth. them identify their own landing piers more recommend another alternative: you can all is the lace-making. The lace easily after a long day’s fishing. Each colour take the 14 line from San Zaccaria (the made here is truly an example THE HOUSES corresponded to a family, to their house and Pietà stop), which stops at the Lido. It’s of an ancient art! Thank heavens for smartphones! The idea to their address. a good opportunity to take a look at the of arriving on Burano and realizing that venue where the Film Festival is held, you’ve forgotten your camera could be a BURANO LACE and admire the works by MOSE, the huge catastrophe. The island’s row of houses, Burano’s brightly-coloured houses are not the hydraulic engineering project completed whose facades boast all the colours of the only thing worth admiring. to protect the Lagoon.

20 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM ACCESSORIES Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run W The Guidelines this family-owned business, established by his father- M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of Anatema in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently R . C E T R Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm- handmade ties. Her windows and display cases 7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Tomà stop). Map D2 the coordinates on the street maps on pages Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Francis Model 62-63. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has stops are based on departure from the Santa (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Lucia railway station. always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Declare Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from Although the goods sold by this small independent Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still brand are targeted at an international clientele, its with pride and passion. take the traditional lunch break. Most shops owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San are closed on Sundays (except those located in provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3 by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open your concierge. G. Pagan daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 generally included in the price of goods. and accessories are made from prized materials: 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 TAX-FREE SHOPPING about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store (San Samuele stop). Map D3 » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased Fanny Gloves San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. and exported from the EU: before finalizing Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5 Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

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UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree Dream-like costumes shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

As everyone knows, Venice is the city of dreams! Thanks to the splendid period costumes created by DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly Antonia Sautter, it is now possible to make your dream come true. By Stefania Vida advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as he mixture of my father’s German clothing and accessories. The exquisite a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include blood and the Venetian blood fabrics, sartorial details, prints, embroidery the word “coperto”, a small surcharge from my mother runs through my and chromatic pairings skillfully re-elaborated corresponding to the cost of the service and For lovers of style and innovation “T bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, veins, and I inherited my restless, inquiring and interpreted by the designer, tell a story semiformal clothing is usually considered de Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is the newest address for spirit from my forefathers. I am an artisan and of a passion for artisanal tradition. The rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars luxury shopping in Venice. Spread out over a surface area of 7,000 square metres, the a dreamer engaged in a never-ending quest craftsmanship involved in this process retains are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ Fondaco was first constructed in 1228 and has been a part of the city of Venice for as in my native city, Venice.” This is how Antonia the authenticity of the production techniques area is specifically offered. many as eight centuries. In addition to hosting the collections of the most coveted Set meals: prices are per person and usually Sautter, the queen of Venice’s high society, used to manufacture velvets, damasks, brocades Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, cosmetics and fragrances, refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). describes herself. The famous ‘Il Ballo del and Venetian silks. In addition, the bags, shoes, € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / this lavish four-story department store will not only be used as a space for events, Doge’ (organized every year by Antonia at scarves, kimonos and fashion accessories are all €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Palazzo Pisani Moretta) is the most sumptuous exclusive pieces, and available for purchase at Venetian craftsmanship. of Carnival extravaganzas in Venice. An artistic Venetia Boutiques, close to St. Mark’s Square SIGHTSEEING The ground floor atrium of luxury department store is home to AMO, the new exclusive Information about our selection of museums event, a gala dinner and one of high society’s (San Marco, 1286 - Frezzeria). All products can be and monuments is checked as carefully as Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience absolute ‘musts’! customized and delivered worldwide. possible. However, telephone numbers, embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries (www.alajmo.it/amo). Just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Antonia Antonia Sautter opening hours, works displayed and site And, to top it all, this stunning historic building, overlooking the Grand Canal, is also a Sautter Atelier is a magical world filled with all >> Atelier Antonia Sautter accessibility are subject to change depending gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit! The view from the rooftop terrace is on the time of the year, restorations, loans or types of masks and costumes. A real hive of San Marco, 1628 (Calle del Carro) breathtaking. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS - Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi changes in management. Ask your concierge. couturier activity dedicated to the creation of T: 041 2413302/5285967 (Rialto Bridge). www.tfondaco.com. Map F3 made-to-measure period costumes, fashionable www.antoniasautter.it

22 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 23 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Luxury Top Brands

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am- A new addition every day! Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. The world of designer 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco boutiques in Venice is Map F4 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open A touch of style distinguishes these nappa making waves, and the BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072. MIU MIU booties featuring a heel decorated Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am- FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti. VALENTINO—www.valentino.com majority of big-name brands with Swarovski crystals. 7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. are located around Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. stop). Map F4 line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat St. Mark’s Square, the great San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto VERSACE—www.versace.com heart of Venice. By heading 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, towards the Accademia from Map F5 com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Sizing St. Mark’s Square, you will 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Map F5 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport. find yourself in Calle Larga San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 Women clothes stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop). GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm). 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco- XXII Marzo, the widest street Map F5 Mon- Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San IT EUR US UK Vallaresso stop). Map F5 in the city, lined with the Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 36 32 1 4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco 38 34 2 6 window displays of the most MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am- 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at 40 36 4 8 7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). coveted international brands. Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Marco Polo Airport. 42 38 6 10 A system of ‘calli’ (the word (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 44 40 8 12 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 for street in Venetian dialect) GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am- 46 42 10 14 CHANEL BEAUTY NEW OPENING San 7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am- 48 44 12 16 known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Vaporetto Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 from the Clock Tower in St. line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). Map F3 T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Women shoes Mark’s Square to the Rialto, • Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 IT EUR US UK where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5 36 36 6 3 (workshops) have now been Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am- PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am- 37 37 6.5 4 replaced by luxury boutiques. 7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily 7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San 38 38 7.5 5 T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 39 39 8.5 6 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco- 40 40 9 7 From a few months, the world’s Vallaresso stop). Map F5 » 41 41 9.5 8 most coveted brands have a DAMIANI NEW OPENING RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com. www.damiani.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296. Men clothes new home that gathers them all San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 under one roof: T Fondaco dei T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 IT EUR US UK

(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Tedeschi, the first luxury Venetian 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 department store, located just ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. 54 50 40 40 steps from the Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 56 52 42 42 I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 58 54 44 44 Rialto Bridge. line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). 60 56 46 46 Map F5 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open Mon- Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Men shoes 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, IT EUR US UK (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). 40 40 7.5 6 T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— 41 41 8 7 (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4 www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat 42 42 8.5 8 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. 43 43 9 9 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com. 44 44 10.5 10 Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 45 45 11.5 11 San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto 46 46 12 12 line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Map F4 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357

(open 6.30am-9pm).

ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am- 7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). TIFFANY & CO. NEW OPENING T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 www.tiffany.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Fresh off DIOR’s prêt-à-porter catwalks, this ecru The ‘Tuileries Besace’ handbag by LOUIS Inspired by sports and luxury, MISSONI’s winter (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. wool coat epitomizes the modern energy of today’s VUITTON mixes monogram canvas with tricolor collection features soft, tailored garments, noble Map F5 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso contemporary woman. leather accents for a bold, fashion-forward look. fibers and vibrant colours. stop). Map F5

24 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 25 Museo Di Torcello

TORCELLO Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m SINA O R

ELLA A D RAD T S

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FO N DA RINA ME ISOLA ATE N T C A A D T I N S A SA N T DI A C TA A EN TE M R DA IN N A MAZZORBETTO FO

U E R I F Q O V I S F I A N TA D E O M E N S A F O N D A

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S S O O A L E F O T T LE E T T L C A VI L C R D R B O A C . A A I N D RI C

O A F O N D A M E N T M A S A A N M E A U R O S A N C I NIS T E I A O

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ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO

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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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S RI IT ALL . DEL A O FONDAMENTA NOVE C C O DE LA MADONNA R AL San Stae C IST LL DEI SAL LE D LE NI E P T L TRON Ca' Pesaro ST UE NTO CA CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Ponte RADA A MENTA CAMPO RIO TER I LLE S NO Santa Sofia VALMARANA T’ DEL PESTRIN SQ A AE Galleria Internazionale SANTI APOSTOLI N C L C A DEL A ALLE Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia NDA ’ DE T À CORTE degli Scalzi L N ERD .S SAN SIMON ARI ’ISO S O R FO LA C VA OVA V DA BATAGIA San Lazzaro B N d'Arte Moderna R I E DE A OR A ER S CALL CO CORTE L GRANDO T IA DEL FOR Ca’ D’Oro NTI LIST LLE I A CAMPIELLO CORTESE A dei Mendicanti Ferrovia C C. DEL E ’ D’ A IA ND CALLE A CAL UC AL CAZZA F C A STELLA C O RIO B RAMO S SALIZ E CORTE NOVA LE LUNGA E ARG L DE CALL C. L NDIC T LIZADA SA C LA L VIDA ENTOR A C NTA C CA A ORSETTI A S LL IO ALL ISOLA NOVA DEL TRONCHETTO a S Santi Apostoli ME E O CAMPIELLO San Simeone SA E EI DEI CALLE LLE n P SAV CAMPIELLO M WIDMANN IO TI RO CALL a OR CALLE O E San Simeon C. LA CA CAM DELLA CASON GAB Z Cà d'Oro Profeta EL l ET R ZI IE LI E D G T PONTE DELLA LIBERTÀ CORTE DEL NNAREG I PUNTA SABBIONI Piccolo San Giacomo INATI LL NUOVA EL r TIOZZI I CA R RUG A CA a LO V ECCHI CAMPIELLO GA DEI A S.Canciano OspedaleDAMENTA D SS. Giovanni e Paolo ARM PAN n O Chiesa Evangelica N dall'Orio SAN CANCIANO CAL N N Rio Dei Mendicanti C C. TR C NTA DE LE GRUE M DRIO LE A A d MA LE IC CAMPO D A C D SCUO LA TESTA FO Ferrovia SAN A L e WI CA IN Luterana AME E LE E P A LLE G D GHETTO VECCHIO LIZ D DIREZIONE MERCATO ITTICO B NAZARIO RUGA BELA D E CALLE People Mover Venezia FOND E ME A RE L S Santa Maria E ARI S FONDAMENTA SANTA L A AL CAMPO IM Palazzo CAMPO Z L CALL O FOND C S.MARIA NOVA EONE SAURO E L AL AM SAN GIACOMO Mater Domini D CAMPO DELLA CALL C Soranzo E E ENT LA E DEI B DALL’ORIO L San Cassiano PESCARIA IAN RG CAMPO I ANZ A Santa Maria del Pianto SAN SIMON C G AL R . A CAL A SAN GALL Capello Palazzo Grioni SANTA MARIA C E LIZAD O INA G S SA NTA Giardino di Palazzo FON ARZO L MATER DOMINI OT O R P.le Roma ERG E D CAMPO CAMPO TO IO DEI MIRACOLISanta Maria B P EL I O FORN Ferrovia RTE L Soranzo Cappello DAMENTA SAN CASSAN BO E TTI TIN SAN BOLDO CAMPO DE LA A Basilica dei O DE A AT CALLE ORS L GO dei Miracoli E C M Z ETT H T . E D NDAME EN I O S BECARIE DEL EL DE LE A NA ASCHI V CALLE LL E CASTELLO . R LLE I C OC N BO E NZ San Giovanni C Santi Giovanni e Paolo E CA CAL A ALL FO O FA E IN DE LA C LL CAMPO CA DEL CAMPO ST ’ D C LDO BO LE D B FORN CAL E . B IU E CALL DE CESARE BATTISTI C NV CA’ CA C RI CA O G OLO Grisostomo OCH I LE C LLE E N DE MUTI Z GIÀ HE CA SANTI GIOVANNI L CINI C. DE L’ ST A TUA PPU LA T CORTE CANAL AL LA B ’AN O EL C S L DELLA LI

M A A Ponte T ONDO OT IA CA TE A L BELLA VIENNA FON DE S GN A T E PAOLO SAN O E TO D EC A T S MEN Teatro Malibran LE EL AT CAMPO I IS ETE A T ’ S LA I C L T A C ALL ALL T NUOVE A R M E D H A C E LE ER L A SE della Costituzione SAN GIACOMETO SOS N C C N O I N FON. DEI TOLE SE NN A C U LA CROCE ER . DE ENTA DE C BE I OVE A SC OR RUG DE Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto I . CA T M CAM SA R CAMPO AN L A O E E E AME T IO SCAL D CORTE SECONDA CCHIO SESTI F C DA MO GL R LE DEL E A D R LA LUNA L L PI GIOV PA CA RI LL SS S E N ALLE DEI DEL MILION SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE ELL ALL CALLE MA CO O TE ANS C N RA RO E IER L CA FON San Giacomo O DE FON E A R N O DE CAVALL LE CORTE DEL O CA R P TER R E DE L’A N O F DE À ON GON RE B BAR LE E VE BAR D IA DE DE L RE TEATRO LE CAM E L I S LE . L T CAMPO AL OLE L LE A L DELL' diI Rialto C E IZADA S.G. GR R D CALL CHIA S C Casa di Marco Polo L CAL C IO TE A C L LE CAL R CAST LLE VE SANTA A . A DEL C A CA L M AMENTA PAPADO CA RAM A E SAN FR DE A A O C FET E VEC CALLE S ZO IER GIUSTINA SECONDO NT CAMPIELLO C S PAN LA CAMPO Z A Canale De ScomenzeraR Sant'Andrea ZO AN ANCES G Giardino Z RAD SESTIE A À S O E CAMPIELLO DETTO DE E E DON RIALTO CO San Francesco INI ALL ALBRIZZI O L A LIO C RUGA D BARBARIA R LO C A’ E N ALLE DE LA LAC DEL SOL E NUOVO Fontego CASTELLO A CA FOND Papadopoli Z MUR T' DEUM TO ELA ANDREA CALLE ZO della Vigna AME L

CAL CA S N PIET CALL L N C TA C dei Tedeschi E O LLE D A E AS N CAL NA DE CO L L E ZO VA CALLE LA CELESTI NU E D E A Z R C O A L EI C ALL ELLA V . CCO O D P EL E DEL E DE CAMPO E D C CI C D C EL A DEL F Sant’Aponal . ONTEG .M L OSE A . D I AMAI CAM NQ ART PI SANTA CAMPIELLO DELLA E CALLE DI MEZ E DE OMB D O D CAMPO GHET O I P E N LL L U ST EN O CALLE MAGAZEN R GIUSTINA I U GO D. CONFRATERNITA O SAN POLO EL CALLE DEL TE A Ponte CA GA E F SAN STIN UR CA D SA LL PAL E CALLE LI O N FONDAM E PELL SANTA CROCE N SAL L GI G LE D CAMPO L I CAMPO IAZ CORTE O CAMPO RA I ON ZO CORTE VA AR ZZ IZ RE AP O di Rialto LLE ZADA TREVISAN N M RI RDON CAMPO A EN O I VI E SAN APONAL DEL NI C O A O I SAN BORTOLOMIO DELLA CELESTIA M TA F DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO R C T ERÀ P C CALLE LATERAN San Nicola TA HI DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN EL P E L I IO O M S D E People Mover Venezia NI AN CAMPO E R PIAZZALE ROMA E X ESI NE M D T V O LL O SHOPPING SHOPPING R O A A A LME M CAMPO da TolentinoA N ’ARC L CALLE NUOVA TABACCHI À C SAN LIO LT D RA M Rialto N L O NT E LLE O ADO O A E CIM O C CAMPIELLO I CORTE C. CAMPIELLO ALL OR M ISO CA M LAV LENTI SAN POLO AD CAMPOSan Silvestro S E L TARI D SANTA MARIA RISTO OR A D DEL MORION RIO TERÀ SANT'A I ESI DEI OMBASEI LIZ DEL V BI SALIZAD DA C E DE AD . RU RA FORMOSA ONDU E DRI A SANTA TO DOLE LE C F A N A E LA L B I S P FONDAMENTA San Lorenzo GIUS CORTE MELONI SAN SILVESTRO C. A LE L TINA EL L D N LIO L L FON C LE E E D D A L A DEI PRETI CAMPO AL L GAL D DE LA F. F. C APR DE C C C I C . C.

R AZZ DEI ND RA A RZI AL I ALLE ER LE C E CAMPO RE C O L SANTA TERNITA Rio de le Muneghete L CALLE LARGA SAN LO O A E L RENZO VIDA RE A I TRONCHETTO DEL LA I B Fontego C R I . LARG CA Santa Maria RGA M R I L A S ON. A SAN LORENZO San Rocco Basilica M FO CORTE DEL A

L CE F Chiesa Rettoriale ER LI I Z O D AZZIN R BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO CALL CALLEZ R Santa Maria Z Dolfin Manin Z E SABION CAMPO CORTE Formosa Palazzo N A O M DA E Palazzo Rava I FONDAMENTA MINOTTO E dei Frari O DEL MONDO Rio Nuovo T CAMPO di S. Polo L CORTE NOVA IN CAMPOIELLO STAGNC. DEL DE LA FAVA S T A MA Rialto CORTE I CA della Fava NUOVO IO F ORET ELLODE DE LA PASINA LIC A I E Grimani M Rio San L DE N ON SACCA CALL AR FOND CORTE LLE DE L’OG P SAN SALVADOR CA T DEI FRARI (Palazzo Cavalli) ZAR LIO SA C DO Rio Del Magazen M O I C. A D AL SAN O LIZADA A o della Consolazione O E A E SA CORTE D Z C LE N O

C AM M BEMB V LVADOR CORTE ONI CA BAN A A S LE DO Unique in Venice O EN CALLE L RUBBI DE SAN L A FABBRICA TABACCHI CAMPO L NT TA DE ME ENTA SAN ORENZO LE N S.Silvestro LICINI LLE E A ERERIA EL O CA T O CAMPIELLO A D DAMENT C O T DR SAN ROCCO SV Lab D ANT’A CALL SA E FON Palazzo E SA QUERINI L SAL Teatro L San Giovanni A E S E GA S LA AL C L STAMPALIA RUG N NO A L MUS S I IZA CCO C L L G I L E L EVER orenzo DA S O E CA Querini OR L Written in the Paloma Picasso’s own hand, this ‘Graffiti’ 18k rose gold S MA T MA Carlo Goldoni San Salvador DE A C A CASTELLO E C R R C di Malta E C A E . DE ZA GIU E AN PANTALO N R N A CORTE DEL i MEZ S L CA Palazzo A N I L o R S CORTE O C L L I L A E Z SA L LE E DEL C O ALBI LE Stampalia FF CORTE CAL L As itsO name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a Sa O O TEATRO R ZULIAN B E E DE A P T TE R FRUTARIOLI D L I COR n S N E IA CORTE DELLE GATE E L Querini-Dubois O A PIT CA CA L TEA LL N L SA L’ IERI DEI ALBA CA E EL AN NUOVA CAL Palazzo L NE D al BAL L LO CA C La Biennale di Venezia E e CORTE DEL ALLE L L L E CORTE ION and diamond pendant byZO TIFFANY & CO. is whimsical, feminine and L R va INA d E E R LLE L CALLE DEI FURLANI BON POZZO ROVERSO CAMPIELLO LO CAMPO A E ZORZI n GR C P CA C dor C LU SBIACCA STRETA CALL D TRAMONTIN CA DA CALLE DEI PRETI CAL AVAL IS .D T IO ZA RÀ DEI PENS a Grimani creative workshop that itsELLO ownerPISC Carlo Sartori likes LI Educational Arsenale E LU E A DUE POZZI E r IMA CO L D S CAMPOIELLO L SAN TOMÀ N LLE TAG ETI DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO E A RONA I PR RIO TE G SA C MA E DE C L PIA L NI E DE C IAPI REME AL A I R CO C DE LA Arsenale di Venezia l L L CALLE B CAL L .DE ZAR LLE FONDAMENTA CAZZIOLA a A I FABB E DE L RA C. D CALL C E I E FRATERNA ASEGO n A S L B E ELLA refined. Those whoC wish to make a bolder statement, look no further A I P D C CA a LO ANSan Giuliano E AL San Tomà IGN ALL CAL G L to describeZEN R as “hisTE parallelZ world”. Not just a shop C. D L C E L OL U GAZEN L GA I LIA CORTE E DEL MA I SC E CR E I CALL DE DEL TRAG San LucaCAMPIELLO EL MA N San Giovanni Novo L San Beneto IA E D DEL FORNO UD OS C CAMPO San Pantalon LL T B La Biennale di Venezia Rio dei T DELLA CA CA AL E Sant'Angelo S N I AS SAN ZUANE RDO ARI R CHIESA L LE SM CA O A L CORTE L’ T Giardino delle Vergini o E NOVO A DE than this heart and arrowION pendant, which is sweetly sentimental. l T FO ent HET CAMPO REDIVO D CRE EN Teatro alle Tese LLE EI N sellingCORTE shoes andGRAGOLINA accessories - a place where you A AM DAM ini Palazzo SA Palazzo ECI M SP SPE S FOND LIZA I ENTA CO Z TO DEL LEONAC D AR CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE A . PI A S L’ ADA A RI R A GR A N GOL N DE SCINA SAN MARTIN LA A O FORNO CHIE I NUOVO Z CALLE DEL FIGHER N TON NTON E PI SAN PANTALON Giustinian Nervi ARI RI O O IN CALL VECCHIO NA DE DURO I T Rio de le Vergini CAMPO L A RI San Giorgio O D D FONDAMENTA RIZ SESTIERE G A RCO E A L GA RAGUSEI ON EL RA D G PET N AN M . COR Persico NI MANIN C. E E S can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but M Scattolin CA T E L C AR I LONN Palazzo Fortuny O CAL DI SAN MARCO EA E LE C L LARGA RI dei Greci ATER D ’ A C. AZZ O LLE IC CAMPO L TR N P CA ON Canale delle Fondamenta Nuove

LE C. A R AN FUSERI S. Toma' SX S STR RÀ C C I O LE L LLE O DE LA SAN OCANDE E AL CALLE LE E LE L D L DEL R L L A LA CERTOSA I E O LLE A CA L A C O L L RIO TE C R A L GI PROVOLO E C CA CORTE DELL’ALBERO OLA C I E T E D D E C. DEL N NAT LLE T E N O O B G NDAMENTA PROCURATIE A LO also anC open space where it is not unusual to find CALLE CONT R R BAL E PI O A I L CA I O IN F R AGH À E PIAZZETTA R

ENI V IN O A D Arsenale di Venezia ALL TIERE DORSO SI V MA LE M S GA L C.D SELLO D ST ARINA ER S Rio Del Palazzo S ZA AL L N

C CAMPO Palazzo FONDA RI O C A A L DEI LEONCINI PE S OTO C S O S E SALI E ND A CORTE CALL DE Palazzo Balbi NN D AT E E T ND. NA À L SAN TERAZZ LLE TO C. DE L E I ER RA Basilica di San Pietro di Castello SES C ER A MO PRI A FO I O T A I TORRETTA CA MO DE LA PERGOLA C FABB E location features over 100 garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and Mocenigo A E F T L IO ON ES ASSE LORENZO R M LLE A C E CAMPO N CAMPO F CAL R OR artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun E ON C L CA CA D ELLO I NA L C A AM R P N CALLE LL AL LE DEL V SAN GALLO I DE E LARGA R TR T DO T L LBA LE A A CERERI AP PIE C D R PI C TI A TA BANDIERA CALL E M EI FO LE D E EN C ’ A T A D . LLE A L MO O RO D CORTE A DE San Zaccaria S N NTA F LE E DE C LA GRI ME E DE E SE T N OSA SCAR E EL OV CI A CR A S ONDA N DE CALL L’A CAL DELLE ANCORE BIA L V E MORO LLE San Martino RAG R A O E top fashion brands for men N cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice FONDAM NA S. S EL CA OS SEO FO A A CA RS T F O N D A LL IN TA’ Basilica ERA A L AD V ALLE E E C LLED A IOL 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo I PE A E D M E C A CAL TAR C OL L P FONDAMENTA N TA A R S E N M A FRU E L C

ALLE ’ V C CAMPO DI S C. E L US C O RAMO LA EN C TR TT A ELE AL EC di San Marco PIO A L A DE L ALLE DEL U C L

L E E DEI Gerolamo San CHIA E O Santa Maria CO MU E L SALIZ CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI IN DEL D TA ROSSA E E SANTA CAMPIELLO CAMPO RT LA M VA DE and women, carefully selected the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second FONDAM I I E R L CAFE I O DOSE LE San Giovanni Battista TERC NE N ARSENALOTTI HE E ELE LE C CAL ZZ Bacino VE

Bacino Stazione Marittima EG L

e San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio della Pietà d NT DE LA DEI E CROSERA L FO L DEI MARGHERITA T RON V LE IER LI CA O CALL DEL A IN CAL VIDA CAMPO RI in Bragora SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO SQUELINI Orseolo ET La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale a ZZE A SAN MARCOA E F

SALIZADA S. SAM I FRE RI MOR Rio DE OND. RI E C. VOLTO B D NOL A to offer its clienteleALLE qualityG and skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any E R C. DEI TO L SANT’ANZOLO IN n E BOT C SC ARRO SCA O NTA DE L' ARZ RIO TERA I O CA O PI L C E S OGI C stop). Map E5 L INA ’ San Fantin E L DE P LLE D ALL CAMPO RDO OZZE DE E C E F O N D CA NA a R E GHE AL Palazzo R L ALL PIAZZA SAN MARCO Palazzo Ducale E AL A M LLE BER L EGHE E CA A C E N CA CA L R I VA D E G L I S C H I AV O N I L TA A N L E DEI A OT LA CHIES NI R S E D GLI SCHIAVONI A LLE DE E N LE C O EN A L GUAR l E ES R E DRIO R E L L R D MU TA CAL C CA I V A D E S LO Grassi FO Ca'Macana CARMINI R elegance. These include casual occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the LE C CAL L E LE UG Carmini G CA H ALLE RI D Santo Stefano NI I DEI AR FO SAN PIETRO DI V Museo CAS

BRIATI L CA ARA A O T ’ M D LE A A E L LLE T CA L LE LE CA L IANI C A L D INT C E L VECCHIA Rio del E A E L’ . San Samuele A A DE LE r PRIMORIN CA T E R Correr VID Ca' Rezzonico O A RG QU MEN T D A E A A NAL RAM RE a Teatro la Fenice E CON N ’ T men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, L A Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta FONDAMENTA SANTA MARTA E’ D CAMPO COR A CAMPO LAMO S. Samuele AS LO Santa Maria T E CAMPIELLO MOIS E SA ALLE FOND S. Zaccaria (Pieta') L P n A Canale Scomenzera L C. S DE CAL C A ● A C LA T SANTO STEFANO A ZI DEI CALEGHERI E A D CIN NA Ca' Rezzonico NSIO dei Carmini SC IS EN ART GALLERIES S. Zaccaria (Danieli) MEN d E P C C L RA A MO DE O L A ZE S A TANA ALLE A A San Moisè N sartorial designs for savvy-style Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open S San Barnaba e FONDAMENTA F O N ZZ RTOR CAMPO E D A M E N TA T C. San Maurizio R I O D E L L EL C ER A RDINI MOLO SAN MARCO A TA Palazzo Loredan A DEI FORNI FOND N A S CRO LO GHER LL CAL LONGHI A LO A SAN MOISE’ C A CAMPIEL TA CORTE CAL C N F E CC CA . ON A LA L D AMEN V I LE C ’ N ARZO LLE M N L PO O OR FO MICHIEL II L O S C XX CALLE V L A gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. OR www. DE LE RIE D R A L IA LLE Bugno Art Gallery E DE A E ARG L ERA I E L E TR CH CAL CA E A L L S F L L

CAL Rio San Moise Arsenale ED A CAMPO A LO MENT NICOL N L O Santa Maria CA RESS ZO E DEGLI R F L ED LE E VA AN I I TRE IZ P S L RI Museo Storico Navale di Venezia RIDO LLE TA A P L PR IE T O A N SAN MAURIZIO I ’ MA A ZIEN O CI A C NUO CALLE DEL IA del Giglio O N RA San FrancescoR RCA HIN N M ALLE SAN SA I the iconic accessories of the latest collections, boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (BacinoETI Orseolo). T: 041 OACC C CAMPO D TTO CALLE DI CA Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the OR FOND. SAN GI ARTIR C N ZE E E LUNGA SAN BARNABA A V F L L P Angelo CAMPO L GIUST SANTA MARIA LL A di Paola N N A SE A San Nicolò CA CALLE S A N T ' E E CAMPO DEL F O N D A M E N TA C DRIO IL A C EMIA DEL GIGLIO I BASTIA STRIN C A G ALL CORTE E Raffaele CIMITERO LLE San Vidal E R T DE IMANI CAL dei Mendicoli E N A I G E L L PISANI T including small leather goods and bijoux, for a 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso LAR BAROZZI ALL galleryR has cooperated with well-known artists D

L C EATA EUF ON DONI AGHETTO FI E B S. Marco (Vallaresso) N NA E ETTO CAMPO I E E CASE NUOV L L CALL P Palazzo CAL E D E DE L’ANZOLO U CAL 100 m L L A C Ca'Macana CAMPO TI CAL VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI LE Istituto Universitario RAFAEL CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO L L A C SAN SEBASTIAN I Corner Ca' Giustinian glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store stop). Map F4 E

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N N NA O E SAN BASILIO T CALL Palazzo E

RI S FFE U I G O L O P E I ALI SEB Ponte SAN C O R ZAD CAMPO C making workshops in Venice for customers, including a Personal Shopping service . A S as well as other international contemporary painters. E SE AN BESA NT Pisani O S A CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI DELLA CARITÀ N I R A G E P P E S DORSODURO ASTIAN G dell'Accademia N ER DEPARTMENT STORES A I B IO GIA CALLE DE LA CHIESA D C FO N Santa Maria R I VA D E I B Chiesa di Ognissanti . NDAM Gritti N O I ENT D O N A REMITE SA DE E del Giglio M E O A E COLO GN T and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am- L I C SANT E Carnival, theatre, film production and N Gallerie Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names TA LL I C E E Salute N M A R I N A C L L CAMPO O R M a n CA I al e CO Grand EC I TTI FO SAN BESAGIO dell'Accademia NDA ME S S S A O Palazzo NTA T NDA SAL L DAMEN UTE E T T E M A R T I R I O N Coin Excelsior B CAMPO CA EL FOND. DE FO CA L 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San LA L FO E DEL represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic P Genovese DELLA L IST L ORT O Collezione Peggy OG R C. C SANT I D E C N SALUTE O IS C I A DA NT San Trovaso ' R AGN I E Guggenheim T DE CAMPO DI ESE Punta della Dogana Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the E N L ENTA SAN GIUSEPPE E I P LE F C SAN VIO Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto E ONDAM NI ALLE I CALLE DEL BASTION T Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, I DAM S E T N AL NA handmade masks in the same way that C I E NI A T C FO EN LL NA E R FODAMENTA ZATTERE TA O D ELL O San Giuseppe BON CAMPO N A CH Basilica di LIN IE Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store TIA San Gregorio SA I SAN TROVASO SCARIN MENTA NA IER stop). Map F4 di Castello S. Basilio O 100 m A Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, FO F ND. VENIER DA I LE FONDAMENT Santa Maria Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, EN ON SEBAS OND R AL PONT F della Salute BRAGADIN CAMPO extends over four floors surrounding the original O ENIE TA ENI N ISEPO NI ISCINA V N CUM NI O V ATE SA E LONGO P RÀ C Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- NT TER SAN ISEPO TA ON RIO RÀ T'A I E never repeating a decoration in order O T SAN RIO TERRÀ I EN I SALO R DO SAB A FON Boggi Milano U FONDAME PAL SOR R indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s LE IO RE A

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DA CAL C TE E FONDAM E 7pm; TESun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. Santa Maria A O LL T D

A E i CAPPU R A LU MEN N V I A L E X X I V to ensure that each mask is unique. NES SA R Z LI Giardini Z À Z ADA Z LE PA ZI CORT L del Rosario DEL An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen n M S A G G I Sant’Agnese FORN DEO CA N I NTA O O ALO lighting installation is showcased. The store provides i D TAFORNACE Chiesa di NA A CALLE bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San G CAMPO DI DEL NAVARO NI AME

d L Chiesa di Santa Maria LE RA SANT'AGNESE RI O TE RRÀ SAN VI O LA San Giorgio Maggiore B Their masks were featured in important F r ON A FOND E D CINA SANT'AG on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for AM F della Visitazione EN IS NT OR a selection of both Italian and International fashion a TA ZA P S. Giorgio T ME TE Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San i RE A AI G N

ESU ND I A A T C I G film productions including “Eyes Wide FO BIL E those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers

Giudecca Hilton RA brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor),

L L O S A N l CU Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4 Zattere N I V I

TE F e ONDA E L O NOVEMBRE FOND N M L Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operasAMEN TO BEATE G EN R A L E G IA R TA ZATTERE DELA CREA d CALLE V IULI CA AN United States I A CHE CAMPIELLO A C A L LLO S M O L E M O N T E P DEL VAPORETTO PI A S U B I O R o ITO ZUC Pavilion L E SA LE including those staged by the Vienna NT O Contini Galleria d’Arte Russia i VIA AL CALLE Spirito Santo FO R N C DAMENTA D Pavilion Giudecca Hilton ZATTERE V I N I MC . Opera House. Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano ISOLA DI IALE P U B B L IC I O F N T ONDA Spirito Santo PI Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo CALLE DE LA SA Japan SE A B O Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery SAN AVE FONDAM SAN GIORGIO C . D E SACCA CA Pavilion L C A R S O Dorsoduro 3172. T: 041 2776142. MEN CALLE DEL VAPORETTO ENTA SAN BIAGIO is a reference point for dealers and collectors T I N O

MAGGIORE TA CALLE DE CA LLE LARGFISOLA A D T LLA CHIESA EI L NTA SAN GIOVANNI S www.camacana.com AV ' RANE TO RI OT E ANT'E

specializing in contemporary art works and HIN LE R A L E C PON ONDAME N E TE F LLA N LA V A L L E G E A RA C RE C Ò NER sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches . LENA Sant'Elena I Z U G N A SACCA SA San Gerardo Sant'Eufemia of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and P A S ICOL Zitelle N Giudecca Palanca F. Le Zitelle C A L CAMPIELLO F O N D A M E N TA S A N T ' E U N SAN CATALDO L E SANT'ELENA SAN BIAGIO CAMPIELLO E C SAN GERARDO LL Teatro Verde A Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include CALLE R N A R O VIALE Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido F E M I A CAL Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and LE CONVE RT ITE FONDAMENTA ZITE R I V I E R A S A FONDAM V I A L E I V N O V E M B R E E Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. NTA Parco delle PONTE O PIC style are the hallmark traits of VenetianCO shoe designer LO Rimembranze PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you V I A L E V I T T O R I O V E N E T O T E Gabriele Gmeiner LL'OLI www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga Lido S. Nicolo' AR GIUDECCA M CA Michele De Fina. Open dailyRRANDO 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. L L E E LE DE F O N D A M E N can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat COS FE TA Redentore L LO CAMPO DI MO I AL S A N G I Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, ERB TA A C O M O XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San IL C E DA L CAMPIE L E SANT’ELENA www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle C ON DE FONDAMENTA CROCE C CAL AL NOB TRET T E A L 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 S I LUNGO CALLE MASON LE

E LL E Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting RO O Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5 L E O GRANDE LE CA M SP Scuola Navale Militare A O T E PONT C AN M C I H E L A N G E L O della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 I ZIO A N CAL O CAL G R C (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 GI LE "Francesco Morosini" DE ME L AN N LA an impressive resume. The designer studied at CORT I CROCE A L L E R A M O ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA F A S C Santissimo Redentore LE (San MarcoL stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Galleria RavagnanO (Rialto stop). Map F4 FONDA E R CA CALLE U FO AMENTA Q LLE ACCADEMIA D NDAME several of the world’s most prestigious design D S NTA PAL LE GER LADA A L CA CALLE ON CALLE MORE C N F SCU O Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space LA Santa Croce K L I schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are E Piedàterre C E C AMPO J B O R A La Parigina E VIA CALLE SCUO E in the historic centre, the RavagnanO NDERI Gallery is one LA L CA F U LLE AL RIO CR BER O exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari NGHANS DE DELLA Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the TA

N LLE L L E An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been A E CA

C M A of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather FOND Rio del Ponte Lungo the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and LÒ CALL customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. selection of handmade slippers where Alessandra E ORT I shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also international renown, exports art works throughout By appointment only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com. and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ Hundertwasser' Garden V AI C stocks a wide selection of international brands the world and participates at prominent international San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189. including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre PI R O ERA SAN NICO and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; I Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3 treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery.com. Piazza RIV O La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury Their creations are available in coloured velvet, RIN San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San MA Giovanna Zanella brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am- Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler 7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto provided by their customers. PASSION TIP Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open Melori & Rosenberg Gallery DELL'OSPIZIO shoes for men and women at her workshop located 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit An exclusive collection V I A just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. The Merchant of Venice exemplifies the historic role played by the city of Venice, V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality stop). Off Map T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s V I A C I P R O and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute Map E3 artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks worldwide, in the art of perfume-making. It carries a selection of different product lines couture creations” because they are often enhanced Macrì of other well-known Italian and international artists. René Caovilla inspired by the tradition of the Venetian Republic; sublime craftsmanship and trade by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. S. Servolo In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working with the Far East. At its Flagship Store in Campo San Fantin you can discover the new, heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo V I A M . F O S C A R I N I at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent exclusive ‘La Fenice’ collection, a tribute to the Gran Teatro La Fenice, one of the V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop). Map D4 world’s most legendary opera houses. Conveying the perfect harmony between music collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of IA AQUILEIA ISOLA LA GRAZIA V (Rialto stop). Map F4 women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy and olfactory pleasures, this collection has been designed to offer customers a unique, Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the SAN SERVOLO aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 CLOTHING RIVIERA SANTA MARIA ELISABETTA V I A F R À M A U R O Giuliana Longo stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with sensorial experience. The two fragrances for him and her are bottled in exquisite IRNE (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San M A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers MEN & WOMEN flacons interpreted in chromatic shades of light blue and gold, the hallmark colours of V I A S dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997. who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin the theatre. www.themerchantofvenice.com Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. Al Duca d'Aosta Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Michele De Fina PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. VICOLO ZENO Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. Tempio Votivo Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Della Pace Di Venezia V I A PA O L O E R I Z Z O true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, stage of the working process from the cutting of the com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114. Murano. T: 041 5274297. VIA NEGROPONTE

Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice G R A N V I A L E S A N TA M A R I A E L I S A B E T TA ELE D'ANNUNZIO original panama hats and handmade headgear. leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 V I A Z A R A

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region, it offers endless entertainment, from the Pomellato the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian children’s adventure play area to restaurants and Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over masks, including jesters, elves and characters from Artistic glass in Murano cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa sought-after collections featuring a range of stones the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. considered among several of the most established Map manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII They were the first mask makers to embellish their Palmanova Outlet Village In DAMIANI’s romantic ‘Baci’ collection, the Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco- masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am- Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Vallaresso stop). Map F4 6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands precious embrace of white and pink gold is exalted by a young, sophisticated design. line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, discounted by up to 70% and open all year Salvadori 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in stop). Map E3

Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and Dodo of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its The Merchant of Venice many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is makes you discover a land full of history and taste: by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am- stop). Map F3 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso is not only a line of products but a wider project

8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway stop). Map F5 which includes a concept store in Murano, the Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: Gems of Venice Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice Glassmaking had already become an sought out the glassblowers of Murano to T: 0432 837810. Off Map For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has Tag Heuer shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World

integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon produce their famous works. sourced the most precious stones, which are then Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after As a result of this experience, during the JEWELRY & WATCHES processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am- the year 1000 A.D. its production had mid-20th century, real masters of the art the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable to master luxury sports chronographs with an 7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 Audemars Piguet unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant become so important that it was protected began to emerge in Murano including art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am- 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A 2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. quest for innovation, excellence, performance and stop). Map F4

by specific laws: the furnaces used to Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the create the molten glass were a constant fire Their works are highly coveted objects, Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. Venini IWC Schaffausen hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As true collectors’ items which are often made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada An artistic space, where you rediscover all the Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space elegance and sophistication of the exquisite a consequence, all the glass workshops displayed at museums. 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The stop). Map F4 creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers

were moved to Murano where they are still Murano has numerous glass factories, stop). Map F4 brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most from Murano. A prime location for passionate

located today. several of which boast an age-old history beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any Tiffany & Co. collectors, or those whose want to further their Boncompagni Venezia NEW OPENING It was here that eyeglasses were invented (i.e.Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are Founded in 1837 in New knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. mirrors began to be produced. It was also Crafting authentic Murano glass is no its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented easy task and does not come cheap. Large pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 crystal. Glass was a rare commodity objects require hours of work, so don’t www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 including the elegant, minimalist creations throughout the Renaissance: it was only expect to take your custom-made lamp stops). Map F4 stop). Map F4 designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured in 1827 that production on an industrial home on the same day. Furthermore, Jaeger-LeCoultre lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a Cartier level began. At that point, blown glass or each piece is unique meaning that small A meeting place for collectors and haute destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, In addition to its renowned collections of haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am- glass produced by lampworking became imperfections are an integral part of the joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless will have the pleasure of discovering the latest 7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Add a touch of Italian chic to your a highly prized material used for artistic value of the object. Finally, the island’s timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, creations and exquisite timepieces designed by Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San wardrobe this winter with BARENA enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open purposes, achieving its height of splendor glass factories are equipped to make safe this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 VENEZIA’s elegant ‘Allegra Antracite’ scarf.

during the Art Nouveau period. Artists deliveries anywhere in the world… ask Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.cartier. 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San www.barenavenezia.com it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany your concierge! Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 PASSION SHOPPING

stop). Map F5 Nardi Venezia Ca’ Macana cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). first of this kind in Europe. Open daily, 9.30am- Chopard A combination of a love of precious stones and a One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. 7.30pm (October-March) and 9.30am-9.30pm Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or (April-September). www.TFondaco.com. Calle del and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3 Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure T Fondaco dei Tedeschi Map E3 a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, The recently renovated 16th century building www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. stop). Map F5 they also hold conferences and courses on the history that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, FASHION OUTLETS Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 of Venetian masks and traditional mask-making food and cultural destination. Surrounding a Omega techniques. PASSION TIP Their masks were central courtyard, the store offers the best in Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet Damiani Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. featured in important film productions including “Eyes leading Italian and international fashion brands, With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, NEW OPENING A reference point in the Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and visitors can find their favourite labels with price world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further for its unmistakable style and innovative technical its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ of these precious creations thanks to its extensive Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, curated cultural program on the 4th floor and From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its collection of luxurious timepieces for men and 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5 partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 La Bottega dei Mascareri like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San when the payment is made by credit card, the Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the Zaccaria stop). Map F4 The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in

28 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 29 SHOPPING SHOPPING Top antiques

041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Venezia, Le Stampe Turio Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am- 12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 Tessitura Bevilacqua or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Artisanal weavers specializing in the production Studio Arga of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and PASSION TIP The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a the company has practiced the art of weaving on must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. original looms that once belonged to the Venetian www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4 Tessitura Bevilacqua Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell Venice is infused with so many Antichità Zanutto “modern object that speak an ancient language”. historical and artistic artefacts Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of that the city’s passion for antiques 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with handbags and other accessories inspired is literally embedded within its a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open soul. There are so many large and evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San small workshops that it is almost 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto impossible to list them all. Where® (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or Map E5 has selected a pick, renowned for San Marco stop). Map E5 their quality and tradition. Venezia, Le Stampe Turio Ca’ Nova At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' continues a family tradition established at the Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated end of the 19th century by her great grandfather several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, Alessandro Zoppi upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. Venetia Studium A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am- PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative most passionate and authoritative collectors and 12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Antichità San Samuele Ca' Nova where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum Franco Dell’Orto features a number of pieces from his impressive This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through European tapestries and large-scale decorative 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm- house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro 7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 email: [email protected]. (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Antichità San Samuele Le Zoie An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. Vianello is renowned for her research and PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am- medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. 12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 www.lezoie.com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Alessandro Zoppi Franco Dell'Orto Antichità Zanutto

30 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 31 IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE BY STEFANO TRAINE JADE MARTINE The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be found at this small yet charming boutique that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’ AN ANCIENT warmth and French charm. Sophisticated VOCATION underwear and accessories, either for Venice’s natural ability personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality for trade dates way gifts. This boutique stocks a wide assortment back in time. Bearing of beautiful items, and courteous assistants in mind that each day, are always on-hand to offer useful advice. Isola di San Michele Santa Croce Cannaregio whatever the season, A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995. Nicolao Atelier the city’s treasures attract thousands of San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892. visitors from all over the world, it’s no surprise that every corner of Venice is San Polo packed with shops and Gems of Venice Castello ‘botteghe’ selling all Vino e... Vini kinds of merchandise. Dorsoduro San Marco So, we suggest Testolini that you try to be a Jade Martine little selective when Ottica Mantovani NICOLAO ATELIER shopping. Make sure An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian- that you choose a shop Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore style period costumes for movies, plays, that really expresses commercials and Carnival parties. the soul of the city. Giudecca Here are a few tips for quality shopping. www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.

VINO E... VINI This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just steps from San Marco. It carries a prestigious selection of Italian and foreign wines as well as an extensive assortment of dessert wines and exclusive grappas. GEMS OF VENICE Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater). In the heart of Venice near the Rialto T: 041 5210184. Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice Ottica has sourced several of the world's Mantovani most precious stones including jade, dal 1871 diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian OTTICA MANTOVANI merchant Marco Polo. Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the 40’s. www.gemsofvenice.it www.xxxxxx.org San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto- Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it Rughetta Ravano) T: 02 xxxxx San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5225148 More info: www.wheremilan.com T: 041 5223427.

More info: www.where-venice.com

32 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM TASTING EXPERIENCE Alla Madonna Antico Martini Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its Enoteca Al Volto most picturesque corners, the Rado family elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and Excellent wine accompanied by traditional has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto stop). Map E4 line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4 Antico Pignolo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its L’Aciughet a Alle Testiere beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well- “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, seafood, with a menu that changes frequently Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Conca d’Oro line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the

Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Antica Carbonera Osteria alla Rivetta Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: One of Venice best-known, most traditional of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and time, this Venetian institution has been turning that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto F4 first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. TRADITIONAL anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 Da Fiore 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 ITALIAN CUISINE A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers top- Antiche Carampane notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. A Beccafico Arte A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin It offers several dining spaces and a small inner has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on top quality ingredients is accompanied by an selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 stop). Map E5 Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto- Mercato stop). Map E3 A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. For a romantic dinner marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ There’s no better way to end a fabulous day on the lagoon than a romantic candle-lit dinner at Venice’s d’Oro stop). Map F3 Acqua Pazza Bistrot de Venise. The ideal place to savour authentic, seasonal gourmet offerings. By Stefania Vida Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of stablished in 1993, the Bistrot de journey back in time, featuring the ancient Italian classics selected by Maitre Sommelier Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Venise is a place where people can aromas and flavours of the Serenissima, Stefano Cipolato, a Veneto Regional Champion Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 meet and savour great cuisine and including sweet and sour dishes, precious and a member of the Italian Sommelier (Rialto stop).Map E4 E outstanding vintages while enjoying an array spices, rice and stockfish. Association (AIS). The restaurant also offers Al Colombo of cultural activities dedicated to the city In addition to the above, the restaurant is also more than 60 wines by the glass and 300 A meeting point since 1986 for an international of Venice including exhibitions and events renowned for its traditional, contemporary highly select Italian and French labels. Wine clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark devoted to art, poetry and photography. Venetian cuisine with standouts including aficionados can also participate in private features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, Boasting a warm, welcoming atmosphere, at fish and seafood from the lagoon, with creative guided tasting sessions in French and English guests can dine outside under the romantic light Bistrot de Venise diners can sample an array twists on traditional festive dishes. led by professional AIS sommeliers. These of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or of different menus based on their individual sessions are held from 11am to 1pm and from 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3 tastes and desire to experiment. IN SEARCH OF LOST WINES 5pm to 7pm (4-20 participants). A one-of-a-kind opportunity to rediscover In 1999, Bistrot de Venice embarked on a Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. authentic, historic Venetian cuisine with search for rare wines. As a consequence, Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect recipes re-imagined by an Anonymous its wine list features rare wines from the >> Bistrot de Venise spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long LA CARAVELLA Venetian Chef, Bartolomeo Sacchi also known Republic of Venice, including Malvasia, Restaurant - Bar - Wine bar day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. Set in an evocative and romantic ambience, this haven of culinary excellence boasts a as Platina, Bartolomeo Scappi and others (from Ribolla, Marzemino, Turchetta, Bianchetta, San Marco, 4685 (Calle dei Fabbri) T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 fabulous selection of Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. See page 37 (Lido stop). Map E3 the 14th to 18th centuries): a gastronomic Raboso and Oseleta but also several great www.bistrotdevenise.com

34 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING “Five star” restaurants

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida Club del Doge L’Alcova with a touch of culinary excellence thanks La Cusina La Cupola c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a c/o The Westin Europa & Regina Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic (www.starwoodhotels.com). T: 041 794611. T: 0 41 2413111. ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.clubdeldoge.com. www.casagredohotel.com. of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In www.lacusina.it. The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, For a regenerating lunch break between visiting dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking one. From April to October (weather permitting), the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its La Cupola the city’s historic architecture, while savouring Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm- Santa Croce, 578. the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ T: 041 2752200. of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner d’Oro stop). Map E3 www.carltongrandcanal.com. 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San De Pisis A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. La Caravella The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, San Marco, 1413/d. c/o Hotel Saturnia Italian and international cuisine with genuine Le Maschere T: 041 5207022. Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. ingredients but with an innovative and original c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.bauervenezia.com. T: 041 5208901. touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the www.restaurantlacaravella.com simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 www.starhotels.com. backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3 Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le

Acquerello Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian Isola di San Clemente, 1. evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient courtyard. Here you can sample authentic T: 0 41 4750111. menu you can also choose from a selection of typical pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and www.kempinski.com. gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 Do Leoni Le Maschere one of the most unique and original tradition with creative and surprising c/o Hotel Londra Palace. restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Aromi Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. T: 041 5200533. stop). Map F4

as its food: situated next to the XII-century church Giudecca, 810. www.londrapalace.com. of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large T: 041 2723311. The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Oro terrace, is located next to one of the island’s www.molinostuckyhilton.it. Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. private landing stages and offers an incomparable Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines Giudecca, 10. view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more T: 041 240801. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s created using only the freshest ingredients based creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the www.belmond.com. complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this Map international gastronomic association “Chiane des further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your Aman Venice Restaurant special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto Terrazza Danieli golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian T: 041 2707333. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6 tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner

www.aman.com. Il Giardino Segreto 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Canova c/o Boscolo Venezia. Map F6 Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 to several specialties created by starred Milanese San Marco, 1243. (Calle Larga Piave). Terrazza Danieli chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary T: 041 5289840. T: 041 2208110. c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’ . www.baglionihotels.com. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso This restaurant pays tribute to Italian gastronomy T: 041 5226480. yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant and excellence. Thanks to thematic islands featuring www.terrazzadanieli.com. caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus an open-plan kitchen, you can watch the chef A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San and tastings featuring the best of traditional turning out his culinary delights while you wait. The Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an Silvestro stop). Map E4 Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only restaurant offers a fabulous selection of fine wines exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off and champagnes to accompany your choice of fish featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal Antinoo’s by a wine list offering a wide selection of national or meat courses. Also serves tantalizing aperitivi. €€€. ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30-2.30pm, Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1 breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto www.sinahotels.com. Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge & stop). Map F5 Do Leoni

36 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 37 DINING DINING Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro Quadri Venissa c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Piazza San Marco, 121 Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) Giudecca, 10 T: 041 5222105 T: 041 5272281 T: 041 240801 www.alajmo.it www.venissa.it www.belmond.com A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from On the one hand its vegetable gardens and A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this and precious fabrics housed in one of the most intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, presented... without forgetting its spectacular view prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try over piazza San Marco. Map F4 seasonal ingredients. Off Map

the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Osteria da Fiore

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Il Ridotto By Stefania Vida

Dopolavoro 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu Met Dopolavoro Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco employing traditional elements is revised daily, T: 041 8521300 with the offerings tending toward lighter, but www.jwvenice.com wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after A particular characteristic? It only has work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini 9 tables. Map F4 is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private Met island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 Venetian lagoon. After a day of business T: 041 5240034 meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious www.hotelmetropole.com gourmet recipes with an individual flavour Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted chef. Off Map at promoting the Italian region.

Its menu features recipes based on traditional Il Ridotto Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served T: 041 5208280 in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its www.ilridotto.com carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro Venissa

38 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 39 DINING DINING

the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes has been renovated with great charm, exuding paired with wines selected from amongst the best an understated elegance with beautiful Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. Top coffee and pastry shops Kosher €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). in Venice line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice take the 9 line). Off Map La Porta d’Acqua offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, If you are already familiar with Jewish Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant Muro offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take is housed in a 15th century building and decorated Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the dietary laws, or want to try a new a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the here are some great addresses that cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier). 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). La Zucca Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San Dal Mas While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant, Tomà stop). Map D4 Located just a few minutes from the railway Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables. station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety Taverna al Remer traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca. ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3 Although the menu features simple, traditional

shop where you can find single servings of delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly- 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Lineadombra pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Caffè Florian few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco- spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all Map F3

Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: Wildner Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden that can be enjoyed in between browsing the (Salute stop). Map E5 by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that KOSHER RESTAURANT atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located Locanda Cipriani People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is GHIMEL GARDEN view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in For those who want to be close to Venice, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 The restaurant offers kosher specialties yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply is accompanied by a great selection of simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular 2 (Rialto stop). Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto 2 (Rialto stop). or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and Marco stop). the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, high quality of its products, its atmosphere and Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the a perfect opportunity to step back in time and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 KOSHER HOUSE days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI was mainly frequented by an international clientele. aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, Silvestro stop). Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Da Mario alla Fava Gran Canal perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. it is equipped with all the necessary of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle accoutrements for the strict observance name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 of Kasheruth and Halacha. (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 atmosphere far removed from the crowds of and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative www.pardesrimonim.net. tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Il Nuovo Galeon Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della true Venetian style of cooking which he does with to combine the pleasures of the palate with a Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family- Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. EBRAICO DI VENEZIA run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Indulge in flavoursome break at the attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Giorgione décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical Marco stop). Map F5 Situated in the Campo del Ghetto A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian an unusual combination of Venetian specialties Harry’s Bar rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Nuovo, the venue is set between two and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello, for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and (Giardini stop). Map H5 Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto LE MASCHERE 1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it. for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of Nuovo). T: 340 1046858. La Piscina A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes this restaurant one T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or of the most original venues in Venice. See page 37 stop). Map H5 still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking

40 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 41

IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT BY STEFANO TRAINE

TRULY VENETIAN TAVERNA AL REMER ► Looking for a really Burano typical restaurant Enjoy an authentic dining experience Al Gatto Nero amidst the hundreds at this typically Venetian eatery, boasting Trattoria da Romano of venues you’ll come a spectacular view over the Grand Canal. across while strolling Santa Croce Cannaregio through Venice? Isola di San Michele Here are a few tips Taverna al Remer www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701 to help you find the (Campiello Remer). T: 041 5228789. right place wherever you happen to be, in the ‘calli’, at the Lido or while enjoying TRATTORIA San Polo Castello an excursion to the DA ROMANO Al Giardinetto da Severino islands… BURANO VENEZIA San Marco Dorsoduro Trattoria Do Forni Antico Pignolo TRATTORIA DA ROMANO (BURANO) Renowns for its simple yet delectable risottos ans its typical seafood dishes, this trattoria Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore has been run by the Barbaro family for generations. Standouts includes mixed grill Giudecca cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Burano - Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Thanks to the quality of his dishes and a genuine sense of Venetian hospitality, its owner, Eligio Paties has turned his restaurant into a sought-after culinary destination.

www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO AL GATTO NERO (BURANO) Its menu offers the best of Freshly caught fish and pasta traditional Venetian cuisine: are served at this family-run ANTICO PIGNOLO RISTORANTE baccalà, Venetian-style liver, trattoria in the heart of Burano. Boasting an elegant ambience and ‘granceola’, polenta with shrimp, The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the Al Giardinetto impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian da Severino a mixed fish fry with artichokes kingdom of Ruggero Bovo since tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties. and seafood risotto. 1965. Must-try dishes include the Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ or www.xxxxxx.org specialties and a well-stocked wine cellar. his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’. Viale xxxxx, 6 www.algiardinetto.it www.gattonero.com T: 02 xxxxx www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120. More info: www.wheremilan.com (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123.

More info: www.where-venice.com

42 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 43 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or and is surrounded by several magnificent stately ATTRACTIONS & ask your concierge. buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes MONUMENTS it one of the most widely-photographed places Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto in the world. The best thing to do here is to look Basilica del Redentore This is one of the largest churches in Venice, around and exult, but don’t forget that the square Based on a project by the famous architect and, according to popular belief, is named after has a number of specific landmark sites, whose Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San on the island of Giudecca. It contains works had miraculous powers. It contains a significant Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one The complex also houses the smaller church the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best- third of the population. To commemorate the end of San Marziale, dating back to before the year known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Map F4 church on the third Sunday of July. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6 stop). Map E2 crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one Basilica di San Marco Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from This is the most important Catholic church in the A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and which its name derives are not those of lovers, but city, and one of the most important monuments in adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they Italy. The original church dates back to before the to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, plague-stricken population of Venice during the a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 15th century. The interiors are filled with 7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, numerous treasures, including an impressive 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian number of works by Tintoretto as well those by lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4 Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four You might have to queue for a time to get inside, Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it Ghetto di Venezia admission is free, you will have to pay to see (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular Although documentation chronicles the presence several specific sights. In order not to miss your when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a of a Jewish community in Venice from before visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening gondola. Originally built during medieval times as the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, hours, as they are often subject to change. Open a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point due to political unrest in Europe and a significant Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both

SVIDA_WHEREITALIA first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to stating that the Jewish population should move Marco stop). Map F4 everyone; between upward and downward slopes, to a specific part of the city, where they could it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to PHOTOS © This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known move to this, then, remote northwestern corner to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th- VENICE BIENNALE of the house) because it dominates the city, century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect observing everything that lies below it. Resting for "foundry," a word that would soon be used lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, throughout Europe and the world to depict an For more than a century, the Venice A fragile heritage it has a particularly recognizable shape and a area where isolated minority groups lived. The Biennale has been one of the most rich history. The original medieval bell tower was Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, prestigious cultural institutions in the modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into world. Renowned for its avant-garde At the aristocratic Palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, a museum hosts the largest historic unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today approach to research and the promotion collection of Murano glass, from Roman times to contemporary design. By Elena Peverata over the city. Although admission is not free, it is it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing of new artistic trends, it organizes often included in joint tickets. Opening times are community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, important international exhibitions subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2 related to art and architecture (it is held rom a Patrician residence to a museum: archaeological section. The items displayed are stages in the history of Murano glassmaking, 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4 bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at Palazzo Giustinian shares the fortunate arranged chronologically starting from relics and the technical stylistic evolutions that Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Canal Grande (Grand Canal) (Casinò di Venezia) its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is fate of many other aristocratic Venetian dating back to Roman times (1st/5th centuries accompanied it. F Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building considered the world’s number one dwellings, with one important difference. It A.D.). The exhibition explores seven hundred street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the houses the oldest casino in the world. An age- platform for its International Exhibition is located in Murano, an island renowned years of the history of Murano glass, with Until 25 April, the Spazio Conterie will host main waterway of Venice and much more. old destination, for aristocratic travelers from of Cinematographic Art (annual), its throughout the world for the excellence of pieces produced from the 4th century to the "Murano Today. Emotions of Glass", an exhibition Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series both East and West, Venice was the first city in Music and Theatre Festival and its more its glass-making tradition. The museum in present, when the appeal of glass as a medium featuring more than 150 works of art including of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public the world to open a gaming house way back in recent Dance Festival. In addition to its buildings, it offers a journey back into history, 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues question is the Glass Museum, which, after of expression became one of the themes of vases, sculptures, design pieces and large traditional appointments, it has added evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient to play host to several of the world’s most new, permanent activities over time. finding a permanent home in 1861 amidst the experimentation, and a privileged tool of sculptures and installations: all original, unique Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has classical games. The casino is open to everyone Costs, venues and opening hours vary frescoed rooms of the former diocese of the interpretation used by many artists creations referencing the contemporary universe witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. according to the activity underway. archbishop of Torcello, continued to expand. and designers. of Murano glassmaking. religious processions, capital executions, www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola Voucher Venezia Unica holders are A large number of antique and contemporary An exhibition space in its own right is Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise stop). Map E3 eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ glass pieces, donated by Murano-based glass represented by the former Conterie, an >> Open daily 10am-5pm (last admission on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) factories, were added to the original archives. industrial glassmaking complex that has been 4pm). Ticket €10. Combo ticket Glass experience, but because it offers several of the Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Known throughout the world, this square is the The museum’s collection was further enriched transformed into a fascinating white cube, Museum + Lace Museum €12. best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli is is almost impossible to list all of them, but by glass objects from the Correr, Cicogna in which an original ‘timeline’, consisting www.museovetro.visitmuve.it It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). for more information you can visit the www. and Molin collections, which include several of fifty objects from the Roman era to the Fondamenta Giustinian 8, Murano. integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 www.labiennale.org canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and beautiful Renaissance pieces, as well as an 20th century, mark the most important T: 041 5274718. metres in length, it faces directly onto the water

44 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 45 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

(access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari 1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo San Giorgio Maggiore largest church in the city. This medieval church Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second The “Scuole Grandi” Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to Map E4 floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Scuola Grande dei Carmini monuments of numerous famous people, including floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous and a number of priceless oil paintings have been N (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This preserved intact. The drama builds when entering Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. small island, that is a part of the panorama that can Santi Giovanni e Paolo the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from One of the city’s most important examples exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open Map D5 di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto is considered the Pantheon of Venice because daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5 all the Venetian doges, starting from Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Gallery and Historic Garden Santa Maria della Salute (Church the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. Rezzonico stop). Map C5 The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel Teatro La Fenice Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its this site might be marked in Venetian dialect glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics at a commercially and aesthetically important point, former splendour (the last time was between 1996 as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th herons and flamingoes from March to September, by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Scala Contarini del Bovolo century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in On 21 November each year, a popular religious building. However, what makes it such a popular strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am- celebration, marking the official end of the Black attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. 11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must Scuola di San Rocco Death, is held here. The church is also famous for in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm- stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. 5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined stop). Map E4 www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the The islands 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map Among Venice’s countless art treasures, paintings by the best artists of the era. After stop). Map E5 top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am- Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice, Grandi’ might be mentioned as Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to unmissable attractions. It goes without edict (1807) and within the space of a short Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, photography, design, graphics and applied arts. saying that these are not schools in the time their assets ended up at antique markets small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships, is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually, accepted sense of the word, but one and collections throughout the world. glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo of the innumerable distinctive features Several of the best preserved Schools at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano of this unique city. During the ancient were reconstituted and transformed into thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi- (Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the Republic of Venice, from the 13th century museums that can now be visited by the rural island with only 17 permanent residents and headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, public. two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated used to describe a brotherhood, or rather These include the Great Schools sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square, an association of lay members who met of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www. to provide assistance to poor people, scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro, widows, orphans, old and sick people. Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco. which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy 2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041 The ‘Scuole’ were divided into it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of 5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a. Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including not finding a seat on the boat. Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca which gathered for religious purposes the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www. 620.Map F5 MUSEUMS & in the name of a patron saint, Schools scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore of Arts and Crafts and Schools of San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), EXHIBITION SITES Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San of Modern Art they represented a real kind of welfare Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty Hosts important 19th and 20th century Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international system, initially destined for members of Science, Literature and Arts (www. collections of paintings and sculptures, including centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as housed in the monumental complex of the former but later extended to the entire ateneoveneto.org), were converted into The phenomenon of 'acqua alta' noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, population. public exhibition spaces and institutions. a place of inestimable architectural and artistic Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an their disposal, a part of which they invested Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this to embellish their own headquarters with Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio paintings by well-known artists including are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3 Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or are well worth a visit. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Century Venetian Art Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century the most important Schools built palaces Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and for their residents designed by famous suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree. leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information architects, and adorned them with the magnificent Accademia Galleries. sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.

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Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice Museo Archeologico Nazionale of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman Map D2 sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze Museo Querini Stampalia artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance several unusual architectural elements designed and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto Botta. Works displayed include paintings by line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Map F5 Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the Museo Correr complex also has a library and a space dedicated The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic This late Gothic building, formerly home to the Contarini family, eight of whose members Zaccaria stop). Map F4 The Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower PLEASE NOTE collections describing the changing cityscape were Doges of the Republic of Venice, is renowned for its famous cylindrical tower and and square overlooking the water, is one of The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting spiral staircase, named ‘del Bovolo’, the Venetian word for snail: one of the city’s foremost Museo Storico Navale della Marina Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable church that welcomes worshippers and important masterpieces of Venetian art from its architectural gems. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com Militare origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. (and photographed) landmarks. In addition tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and The Historic Naval Museum, the most important correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy objet d’art made from Murano glass, including to being the city’s most important to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In important pieces produced between the 15th and church, the Basilica is a monument to the artistic heritage. However, at certain times stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines addition to the main 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. history of Venice, a grand treasure chest or on certain days, it is entirely given over - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).Map building, whose Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum G4 exhibition spaces of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered to religious ceremonies and visits are Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta span 42 rooms from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling suspended. For more information visit The museum, located on the top floor of the Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto Museo di Storia Naturale and five floors, Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi polychrome façade with its marbles and www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that the ‘Padiglione housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s it is open for visits. On entering, visitors delle Navi’ (Ships designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro Museo di San Marco layout is divided into three sections each of which Pavilion), located in famous winged lion, the symbol of the city are asked to respect the rules: appropriate family. Here, you will find one of the most important The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. clothing must be worn, as this is a place of collections in the world of Japanese art from the will take you from the historic area above the collection includes more than two million pieces: Workshop’, is also a part Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former zoological and paleontological collections, The interior, featuring an abundance of worship. Taking photographs is forbidden of the museum. Built in swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is and visitors are asked to lower their voices the mid-16th century lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet as a workshop to build definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum at all times. Please note that you will Other highlights include extensive sections St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples and store oars, since and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a probably have to wait for about 45 minutes dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. 1980 it has housed an not-to-be-missed highlight. in order to gain access to the Basilica. on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. impressive collection of ticket (integrated with the International Gallery bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa historical vessels, and is of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. an extension of the main Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3 museum’s headquarters. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. Stae stop). Map E3 the museum takes visitors through various areas 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing Museo Ebraico di Venezia > Venice’s Historic stop). Map G6 della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) attire that is respectful of the religious nature of JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; Naval Museum (Accademia stop). Map D5 Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed a highly unusual urban architectural museum (Castello 2148, Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price complex that includes the museum itself, the Riva San Biasio. VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Galleria Giorgio Franchetti Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. T: 041 2441399) Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia alla Ca' d'Oro rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. It contains a small but precious collection of is currently were instituted as an educational adjunct to The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria artifacts related to the long history of the Jews closed for the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most dwelling, hosts the art collections that were from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and renovation important collection of Venetian and Veneto donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint stop). Map F4 English), you can visit three of the area’s five but the artworks dated between the 14th and 18th These include period furnishing, tapestries, ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Padiglione centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Museo delle Icone Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New delle Navi, Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, collection features a mixture of Renaissance Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) located Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate just several important landscape artists including and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces 12 (Burano stop). Off Map Venice and is located on the first floor of the the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo complex hosting these works occupies the An interesting collection of ceramic relics from Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am- ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine 7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. the museum are arranged in chronological order: through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to Originally intended to adorn a garden, Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary in addition to the archaeological section featuring codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 Antonio Canova's Orpheus (1776) is now Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and housed at the CORRER MUSEUM. you can also find an extensive range of historical and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm.

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ornate garments. The building is now used to host the personal collection of American heiress including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) art exhibitions. The museum is open only during Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on home showcases her collection of Cubist, space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and century and is one of Venice’s most famous Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Visit the website to check the days on which dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and the museum is open to the public. Open daily, to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important 9.30am-5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can Samuele stop). Map E4 collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, observe the complex mechanisms of this large Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Palazzo Grassi astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, Museo Punta della Dogana Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Map D4 you emerge onto its terraces from which you can Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Admission subject to reservation, with an expert century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour The headquarters Salute stop). Map E5 tour guide. (T: 848 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm- of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art of the San Rocco Brotherhood, 6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www.torreorologio.visitmuve. museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca this stunning building, it). Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio. They host important collective or monographic Marciana to which hardly any visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Vaporetto line exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, modifications 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 Collection, one of the world’s largest collections is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions have been made, (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, hosts more than 60 stop). Map F4 adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action- standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule masterpieces by artists packed calendar of conferences, concerts and and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century of the likes of Giorgione, screenings of an international scope. Open daily decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, Tiepolo and Titian, still 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. where the reading rooms and offices are located, it presented in their original Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: €20. www. is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the layout. Its establishment palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Grassi San Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to represented an Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. important moment (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Open daily. www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it. Entrance in the history of 16th Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 century Venetian art, above GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line all thanks to Tintoretto’s This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti famous cycle of Old and Palazzo Grimani dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5 New Testament scenes. Open Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with Scuola Grande di San Giovanni on 25 December and 1 January. frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one Evangelista Full price ticket €10; Scuola of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a Grande + church €8. www. steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, its architecture, history and cultural and artistic complex featuring several different architectural scuolagrandesanrocco. viewing, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo Cold-painted terracotta by Arturo Martini, named ‘Prostitute’ > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum like its superb double staircase (1498) right up San Rocco stop). T: 041 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. hosting a few select works, typifying the style to the final major architectural changes made in 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (1913), donated by Maria Barbantini to the CA’ PESARO, 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am- the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. (San Tomà stop). Map D4 International Gallery of Modern Art. capesaro.visitmuve.it 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), 2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto Palazzo Ducale www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5 A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). MUSEUM PASS Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different Map F4 The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca and intricate architectural and ornamental details, Just one ticket for 11 museums > Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural and government centre of the Doges, it not only Storia del Tessuto e del Costume that offers access to all the permanent initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated activities, conventions, study grants and awards). via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. museums. It is valid for 6 months and Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of allows one entry per museum site. showcase works by the latter, also host temporary Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by which leads to the spacious council rooms and on display include opulent garments and olden-day valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price Apartment. Other highlights on this route include The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino the prisons and loggias overlooking the square integrated with a number of works originating Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo PASSION TIP Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). stop). Map F4 and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo. Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Map E6 visitmuve.it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price Palazzo Fortuny Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Museo di Storia Naturale. Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his Map E3 the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection own personal atelier for photography, set-design, Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century textile creations and paintings. The museum’s Peggy Guggenheim Collection Call center 848 082000. Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces Palazzo Venier dei Leoni From abroad +39 041 42730892. Museo Correr Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable and materials commissioned for important projects: The museum, boasting one of the most important art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from paintings, lighting systems, photography and collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts

50 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 51 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events CONCERT VENUES calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 LA FENICE performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational OPERA HOUSE & THEATRES basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, Teatro Goldoni ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. www.teatrolafenice.it and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named Map after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it Teatro Olimpico Vicenza engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km dramatist at that time. It was renovated several from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4 in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting Teatro La Fenice the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage ■ OPERA Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most 1, 5 February legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, TANNHÄUSER fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal Music by: Richard Wagner stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and WELLNESS Omer Meir Wellber, conductor the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In Calixto Bieito, director the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas Boscolo Venezia Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Elegance, style and design blend to create a 10, 12, 18, 21, 23 February Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one- (Teatro Malibran) century it became a focal point for contemporary of-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o GINA productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Music by: Francesco Cilea Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Francesco Lanzillotta, conductor Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise Bepi Morassi, director and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The stop). Map E2 Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am 16, 17, 19, 22, 24, 25, 26, 28 February Centro Benessere Casanova to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens and 1, 2 March audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, where Casanova was known to court his lovers. LA BOHÈME German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 The Center offers a wide range of treatments and Music by: Giacomo Puccini

SVIDA_WHEREITALIA (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 massages with a particular emphasis on facials Stefano Ranzani, conductor or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Francesco Micheli, director www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Edoardo Sanchi, sets PHOTO © GAMBLING & CASINOS Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4 Silvia Aymonino, costumes Casinò di Venezia San Clemente Palace Kempinski Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy ■ CONCERTS house and its charm has remained unaltered over service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and 3, 4 February Venice in love the years. A perfect example of renaissance style authentic journey based on the restorative powers stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. OMER MEIR WELLBER CONCERT Due to its all-consuming beauty, Venice is one of the most romantic destinations in the world. Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety Music by: Hannes Kerschbaumer, Ernest Although Valentine’s Day (14 February) might be overshadowed by Carnival festivities, don’t worry, Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue Bloch, Robert Schumann overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and Omer Meir Wellber, conductor you’re definitely in the right place. By Elena Binda Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs Jan Vogler, cello and American gaming tables are given over to the and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente 21, 23 February best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines here’s no doubt about it, the height of include the bell tower of St. Mark’s Square, or della Misericordia district (a great place for Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San LA FENICE CHOIR CONCERT provide a more informal way of having fun. For romance is when you exchange sweet the Rialto Bridge, but the Island of San Giorgio, aperitivi), while those wishing to really make a Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary Music by: Peteris Vasks, Wolfgang venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map Tnothings and kisses during a gondola the Giudecca, the Zattere or Giardini areas night of it can book a table aboard a Galleon it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 Amadeus Mozart ride. Visit www.venicegondolaride.com or are all great locations (make sure to check (www.jollyroger.it) or even tickets for the 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). JW Marriott Venice Claudio Marino Moretti, conductor Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – ask your concierge to arrange a personalized availability). Grand Ball at Palazzo Contarini della Porta di • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, ■ opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a CHAMBER MUSIC tour. If you prefer enjoying special effects in You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to Ferro (a truly sumptuous venue where wearing entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins 11 February (Sale Apollinee) silence, you can take a helicopter tour over candlelit dinners. The famous Hotel Danieli a mask is compulsory). Themed concerts are hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o MUSIKÀMERA – LYSKAMM QUARTET the Lagoon (www.heliairvenice.it). with its breathtaking view (dinner is served also appealing, but this time, the musicians (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2 JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Music by: Béla Bartók, Maurice Ravel You can also follow in the footsteps of indoors because the terrace is closed in wear period costumes, so there’s no need to Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private Cecilia Ziano, Clara Franziska boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott Casanova by organizing a walking tour of the winter), the elegant Do Leoni, the Antico wear a disguise. The Musici Veneziani perform VENETO HOT VENUES Schötensack, violin every 30 minutes. Off Map Francesca Piccioni, viola city. However, be careful of the message this Pignolo, Da Mario alla Fava, the Anice Stellato, at the Scuola di San Teodoro, while the Musica Arena di Verona Giorgio Casati, cello could give. Although Casanova was a famous the Paradiso Perduto and the Antico Martini in Maschera group stages a show at the Scuola The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the Eforea Spa 14 February (Sale Apollinee) lover, he was not the epitome of faithfulness or are just a few. Other options include La Piscina Grande dei Carmini. world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make MUSIKÀMERA – TRIO DI PARMA commitment… della Calcina, A Beccafico, Linea d’Ombra, the However, there’s another alternative! Don’t Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved Music by: Ludwig van Beethoven To be on the safe side and, weather permitting, Bistrot de Venise (see page 34). organize anything - simply gaze into your (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Alberto Miodini, Ivan Rabaglia, violin the sunset option from an optimal vantage Those in search of a more laid-back significant other’s eyes, with Venice as the hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Enrico Bronzi, cello point is always a winner. Old-time favourites atmosphere should head to the Fondamenta backdrop… performances and internationally renowned stars. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6

52 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 53 OUT OF TOWN CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page, a breathtaking view of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites. On the right, a corner of Verona with the Arena on the right. Veneto, all the allure Below, Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas and, of the region at the bottom, Treviso.

VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were Verona built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Cortina d'Ampezzo Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Several charming destinations, VERONA with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari a perfect way to spend Located just over a hundred kilometers from balcony, while strolling through the streets also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini a relaxing day while having fun. medieval historical center, encircling the Roman aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman, By Simona P.K. Daviddii Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing a spectacular 18th century complex. The in summer. Although the Arena attracts music crenellated walls, is located just a little further last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the on. The Adige river is located just steps away, Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the and friend of Galileo Galilei. Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an perfect place to fall in love. www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com Villa Pisani, Stra CORTINA D'AMPEZZO intense cultural life. www.tourism.verona.it Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km TREVISO getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei a charming town exclusively positioned in the Cortina d'Ampezzo Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol ? elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, Cortina Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst is the spectacular scenery and full range of its streets adding a unique touch of charm to LUGANO Marostica ? alpine sports and outdoor activities offered Palmanova its historic centre encircled by the old town MENDRISIO Treviso ? by this bustling mountain town, attract nature BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona Vicenza ? walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. ? ? ? Noventa facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and NOVARA Padua di Piave TRIESTE First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive MILANO Abano ? ? the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close shopping and a great choice of events and Montegrotto? Venice relationship with its waters. Mantua ? entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a ?Chioggia The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and world-class winter destination. Winter offers an ALESSANDRIA in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi array of outdoor activities including excursions TORINO FERRARA di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents PIACENZA MAR works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei GENOVA ADRIATICO driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh BOLOGNA Carraresi which hosts prestigious international rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of RIMINI from dawn to dusk. MAR LIGURE its own brimming over with picturesque osterie cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com PISA and small cafes overlooking its squares. FIRENZE Treviso, piazza dei Signori DISTANCE FROM VENICE 420 km VENTIMIGLIA DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km

54 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 LIVORNO www.wheretraveler.com 55 ANCONA

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Euganei Hills Garden of Villa Barbarigo Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo

visitors could access the Portal of Diana – so- garden is owed to the loving care bestowed called because of the goddess of hunting who upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST ! A unique blend of nature, art and wellness stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today, the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those family and the Counts of Martinengo during For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle Thermal Water” line, thermal spring 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, one of the most Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio Rose during the early 20th century. The villa water is combined with two anti-ageing beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town. Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its (from which the garden takes its name) to reach and it gardens have been the property of the properties: hyaluronic acid which helps monumental garden is located in an the landing stage in front of the garden. Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners to restore skin elasticity, and natural anti- area steeped in nature and history, of the estate for three generations, the Pizzoni- oxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua, It was the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop the ideal destination for art lovers AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN Ardemani family not only repaired the damage Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from you can admire the authentic Italian Baroque of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of caused by military occupation and the forced the effects of ageing. This line is a result of Garden of Valsanzibio. Over the years, it has religious symbolism of the project designed by the thermal waters of Abano and Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of abandonment of the villa during World War II, the combination of thermal water drawn gained international recognition. In addition leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden but also recently renovated all of the garden’s from four springs in the Veneto region, being published in leading art and botany Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after boasts a number of fully operative water 33 water features, damaged by eighty years of mixed to obtain different concentrations books, it was named the most beautiful Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the destination for those in search features and is currently one of the largest, gradual ground-water depletion. based on their specific salinity: water from garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of of relaxing, wellness retreats best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit www.valsanzibiogiardino.it the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was perfection that leads man from Error to Truth, for the preservation of this beautifully tended [email protected] ‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate, used as the setting for the Merchant of from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In Portal of Diana was not the only main access waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating 2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network, route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the from deep underground springs); chose it for a program that was aired live and, 12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing the low mineral content water in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel, gateway represented the beginning of the from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’ dedicated an installment of the program Road to Salvation, ending in the open space in Crespano (home to the spring ‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also named for Empress Sissi ); and it from among twenty of Europe’s most known as the Fountain of Ecstasy. The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto finally, the water of the ‘Terme Euganee’ (which flows through important historical gardens. Each year, the Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by the municipalities of Abano, garden is a highly sought-after destination A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and for international tourists. This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific Galzignano at a temperature of statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it 87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’ THE MAJESTIC PARK, stone. There are also other minor sculptures unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which can be purchased online at THE STAR OF THE SHOW that blend harmoniously with the architecture, gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme www.aquaehotels.it or from the The villa, which was used as a residence prior streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’. best hotels and sales points in the to the design of its monumental garden, and fish pools that are scattered amidst When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with area. Ask your concierge. complements the majestic park. In fact, it is numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for feature. The garden was built during the complex itself, important highlights along the muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing. second half of the 17th century by Venetian Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website. BENESSERE STILE DI VITA nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and www.aquaehotels.it the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio. the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,

56 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 57 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM Emergency

POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at all pharmacies. Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains “SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Isola di San Michele Santa Croce Cannaregio Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks Venice, the Floating City the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. San Polo Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, Castello take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Dorsoduro San Marco By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italians (at least many of them), may already ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, Venice also has its own network of public... Italo, Thello, Eurocity: Giudecca know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and and private transportation: its vaporetti, real Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just salizade are Venetian words used to identify waterbuses, are the most popular craft used Tourist Information furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is by locals, which is why they are often very APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città pavements. In Venice, canals are the only the local word indicating the six districts the crowded during peak hours. These engine- Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. most densely populated district of Venice. Its This is the city’s main sestiere because it available communication route, bearing in city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, powered water taxis are able to whiz across T: 041 5298711. name probably derives from the expanse of houses the palaces that once constituted the mind that part of the city extends over a Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those reeds found in the swamps on which it was government of Venice until its fall. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website handful of beautiful islands that are scattered Castello. This division dates back to the 12th who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic built. of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it) San Polo, which takes its name from the across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon century and also includes areas such as La experience, the famous, distinctive gondola Castello takes its name from the castle of church of San Polo, is the geographic centre city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore is an absolute must. This elegant, black, Tourist Card which traces still remain today. It extends of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass around the Arsenale and includes the the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). the water, while its gondolier sings an entire that offers unlimited use of public transportation, Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Schiavoni. all. At times Venice may find itself... under Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. admission to tourist attractions and cultural Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient events in the city, plus a number of other useful water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the and often reach four figures, for example, one It goes without saying that the waters of the Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand church of the same name which unfortunately services. You can purchase your card online and result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello canals are not suitable for swimming, and their dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It customize your Venezia Unica City Pass Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along includes the Stazione Marittima and the cause the water level to rise by as much as is 7,000. banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be to suit your individual travel needs which the long promenade known as the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised You need to learn them if you want so focused on your selfie stick that you walk (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches. and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon plank walkways, or don rain boots (many to find your way through the spectacular, into a canal because you might be in for some Open daily 9am-4pm. traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses). © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA T: 392 6786628. shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable maze-like historic centre. rather unpleasant surprises!

58 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 59 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GETTING AROUND VENICE THE LIDO OF VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-min- Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much ute walk from North to South) whose main points of more. An island, a town with its own history and interest are situated just a short distance from each a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of stages are located at central points around the sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San and the open sea, only connected to the city and Marco…) . dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice Tickets - Although paper tickets are available is that the Lido has real streets, which means you at main embarkation points and from authorized get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis foot or by bicycle. tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and can be costly, they are the fastest and most pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. concierge. WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can gondolavenezia.it sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides hectares of land, including two kilometers of ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options Although they allow you to save on official rates, cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island they are only recommended for long-term visits. Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the operate in Venice. several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San The Excelsior Venice Hotel travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to experience a view of Venice that is anything but beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”. pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by are available for hire from 16 landing stages, Venice by public transport. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the Gondolas, a tourist’s dream! course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom- where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced made according to his weight and height. in America, but not in Italy at that time. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient SVIDA_WHEREITALIA the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). more northerly direction, is the settlement of San An interesting feature that you are bound to Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in PHOTOS © notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its the 11th century. Join us for an unforgettable experience in Venice most recent version was created by the Style WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio remains of ancient fortresses which are now Ceccato. used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of ... Ask only for the Best Service! as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? lnternational Limousine Service miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail is the exclusive ticket resale point for the on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any withstood the test of time? supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, Gran Teatro La Fenice and the Arena of Verona The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. www.emilioceccato.com fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to www.internationallimousine.it Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds Piazzale Roma 496 I-L T: +39 041 5221867 in fabulous small restaurants.

60 WHERE VENICE I FEBRUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 61 Museo Di Torcello

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CA L T V a E À N i E Palazzo Nani L F A L E O R O L I IS d A N F E N I V r C O M R T D E M N A R o D A M T A A A O E I SE I E L Z c C ME L i A R N A r T B N E DE N N CA I L A A e TA M ’ R E O A Rio L s E D L S CA d FO I E i T L A LLE e N S D A V DE Se .D E C C E E O L PI rv A R Abazia O AL I ST i N M A I LE R OR IE I P T C R GNA LE C N AT LL C O M a N I ENE A CAMPIELLO della Misericordia l A R A N R CA l S N A A C LLE R D O L D O N A SAN MARZIALE I e A C A E A G T E R À S . L R F S C R I O IO O d N CAMPO U TE N FO Chiesa dei Gesuiti R L A D e À A l E SAN LEONARDO N D I E I E F A L D L B M LA O R L M M N E O AL A N na A CAMPO Palazzo Labia O D D C C L L I D A A T a C O M A R Parco LE E F O C N E T O SAFFA A N R S C N i O R Salone del Tiepolo E D l A A L T A MI M Savorgnan San Leonardo L A P . EN o S A D t , D O TA E C N S N R E L s P I DIE IO I O AN R TR TE C N F A TA E E O RÀ La Maddalena A T C LA U L ' E A po CAMPO A T Q C E LL HI V H E E RI CAMPO A C A E S C NA L A N I A C SAN GEREMIA Santa Fosca A S L D R i L A DEI GESUITI O San Marcuola R FO t L C A N L DA n San Raffaele Arcangelo A E C M LA S M A N GIROLAM NO D IN E EN a CAMPIELLO L T E D TA E L R C Z S

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T C E T E Santa Maria IV San Zan E E I U o O D T E S N R D L i E L C T Palazzo RÀ VO D A R L FONDAMENTA SA À E BA T I T O E RBA O E S E N O V R E T L I L

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TEATRO D L I E . a T C A N E S E L L A H N Casa di Marco Polo E T CAMPO A E OL L E L A D Z O L I E C n E I R D L C C L C L CA C L A C L LE C R I A E C A C L SANTA A a O L A . A DE L C L M AMEN C L MAR R D E A O C E A L Sant'Andrea E A A AF S O A V C E A T S T O E M E C Z IER GIUSTINA N S S L E Giardino C C E N N CAMPIELLO A FR S C R A PA L A CAMPO Z AN AG O T O Z ' Z A L C San Francesco R N S N A À T O E CAMPIELLO G L DETTO DE ES A D E E Z L E D RIALTO M CO D O ST T IN L ALBRIZZI U E R O L SA A ’ IE L O Fontego U E C R D BARBARIA R L Papadopoli C U A E A E LLE DE IO DEL SOL N N T LA E NUOVO C O R LAC T I A C F A Z M T M D della Vigna O S A T E N T E A E ' I D AN L O CAL A L E LE L L M CA C A Z P O S dei Tedeschi O E E P N L C A C L A N PO D DI T L TA L L E REA A A L C A L O L E A N C N A L D S P C L E O L A A E A EL E E E Z V C L N L L E A D O A U A Z R L C O A D C E A L E C E V . L C E E P D EL L CAMPO L D E I DE E E Sant’Aponal S D D E M C L D C S C C AL A C E A D FO . E TI M L O L O AI T . N A . I O C E SANTA E CAMPIELLO DELLA ON AM L E N T A P I E R I L E C E D H D G T O D O

D L I CAMPO G L Q O I M P LE L E N L A AL U E E B O L Ponte O L L C L M R S U N GIUSTINA I G L CONFRATERNITA Z O A E C T O A CA G E D A D SA E F SAN STIN U CA . D C C E LLE P E L O A N F G R A P S L E O N CAMPO L G L L G N I I A I E CORTE P A di Rialto CAMPO A I R D O L O D CAMPO R ON I L ZZ CORTE V AM A A O Z IZ O L R A

Z A I R I D N Z TREVISAN N M O R R Z CAMPO A E E

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E T H L DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN T C L R P E A E E À E O I I E RAN M C D O E N S A CAMPO E R L PIAZZALE ROMA I X E N M E R N L D People Mover Venezia M T L V O da Tolentino S L O E T O A R I A CAMPO A I A O A E NUOVE L M E N ’ T L T A À C E N D R C SAN LIO D L Rialto L L O N M S O N U I E L O A T A O A O E E C A O I A I L V CAMPIELLO CORTE S D N L C CAMPIELLO A B AR S M I C I O C M . L San Silvestro SAN POLO L LA I R E T R L VAD M L CAMPO SANTA MARIA R A N ALL M S E A O D L A D U DEL MORION C E R O E L D R B L S I I DEI E DE O E IZ . D R RAD ALIZ O S A FORMOSA AD O San Lorenzo A E T D I S N T I B L C E F A ANT L N E N A E A D I G CORTE R L SAN SILVESTRO S L P FONDAMENTA IUST O I C L IN À C MELONI A A E U L O R . D N L D S L F C E L E A LE I D E L N . A L P IO E DEI PRETI . CAMPO A G A D DE LA O T L Z E A C ' F A L D A C C L C I C .

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B A C E R T I E . C d San Rocco Basilica R R LA I R L E A L A L G G S O Chiesa Rettoriale E A e SAN LORENZO L MO A R R M F CORTE DEL A B L C I F M E A Santa Maria I O Dolfin Manin L l Formosa Z e E O A R Palazzo N I BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO A C C T R Z Z Z

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. R E L A F T R N i S. Toma' SX C N A L

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D I ASE C E E O A L C L . O E D L SAN O O E T E A R C L E L L D P L D R L L A z E E O L LA CERTOSA L G E A A E I O L A I D E L A E C L A C L

T O L A L D R C R L L A L GI PROVOLO E EN . E A C C R CORTE DELL’ALBERO L O C I AT M T E A D E C N N A T E O O G D L E N O L B I N L E A L A P E R C Arsenale di Venezia C I R B E N O M L C O I A Palazzo A I LL I D M F LLE R A À A E PIAZZETTA R

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D N F LE E S O C E GR e R E E T N D E O D S E L M C E E San Martino A A A O S D L A E E D N a C L E A n A D L L E MORO L DELLE ANCORE D L C N O C BI V R R A E ’ N

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D ALLO V I A J A C O P O N A N I

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ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE I

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V I A I S T R I VIA GAL VIA S

L IPOLI Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

D A L M A Z I A A VI LIDO DI VENEZIA V I A L O R E N Z O M A R C E L L O

100 m V I A D O M E N I C O S E LV O

V I A C A N D I A

GOMARE GUGLIELMO MARCONI

O GALLO LUN

ANDIA

VIA S I A C Festival Danza Orientale V e Danza del Ventre Venezia LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia

V I A M O R O S I N I

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

V AI P EI T R O B U R AT T I ONI

LLO V I A A N T O N I O L A M B E R T I Hotel Excelsior Venice

S. Antonio Di Padova VIA D. PIZZAMANO VIA SANDRO GA

V I A A N D R E A C A L M O NGOMARE GUGLIELMO MARC LU

V I A P. G A R Z O N I

V I A A . M O R O S I N I

VA DI CORINTO

RI V I A L E O N A R D O L O R E D A N

V I A J . D I E D O

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

RIVA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIA ANTONIO VIVALDI

VIA SANDRO GALLO

MARE GUGLIELMO MARCONI VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO

UNGO L

VIA SAN PIGAFETTA

VIA SANDRO GALLO

V I A O N G A N I A VIA SAN PIGAFETTA

V I A A N D R E AVIA D ANICOLA A S O L A JENSON

RIVA GIOVANNI E VINDELLINO DA SPIRA

VIA SANDRO GALLO

V I A D E I S E S S A

VIA FRANCESCO PEZZANA

RIVIERA PASQUALI

VIA SANDRO GALLO V I A D E L Z AT TA

V I A D E I R E M O N D I N I VIA GIOVANNI PIVIDOR

V I A C O L E T T I

VIA MALAMOCCO

ISOLA POVEGLIA VIA ALVISOPOLI

VIA MALAMOCCO

VIA FERRUCCIO PARRI

MALAMOCCO

VIA

VIA MALAMOCCO MALAMOCCO Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

A GIOV O N O C A I D I N N VA O I G VA I R PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

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