CONFIDENCE GROWS AGAIN/2 WET SEAL CLOSING 150 UNITS/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • December 29, 2004 • $2.00 Sportswear Playing the Tulle PARIS — Evening dresses can have a retro chic, be reminiscent of Old Hollywood or be livelier and more experimental. Some of Paris’ newer designers and houses are going in the last direction this season, with distinctive looks featuring innovative details. Here, for example, Bruno Pieters’ cotton tulle bustier dress with an attached top, worn with a Jean Paul Gaultier bracelet and necklace and Sharon Wauchob wedges. For more imaginative styles, see pages 4 and 5.

China’s New Tariff Plan: Export Charges Cover 148 Product Categories By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — China will impose tariffs on STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER LAURENT STYLED BY 148 categories starting Saturday in an apparent response to international pressure to control its apparel and textile exports. The move coincides with the elimination of the remaining vestiges of a 30-year-old quota system among World Trade Organization member countries. The Chinese government said it will levy duties ranging from 2.4 cents to 3.6 cents per piece or per set of clothing, and 6 cents per kilogram for parts or accessories. Among the targeted export See China, Page10 PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: AURORE MALATERRE/NEXT, PARIS; HAIR BY TOMOKO AT CALLISTE/PARIS; MAKEUP BY ANGELIK IFFENECKER; MAKEUP BY CALLISTE/PARIS; AT TOMOKO HAIR BY PARIS; MALATERRE/NEXT, MODEL: AURORE KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Consumer Confidence Surprise FASHION By Vicki M. Young for bargains, economists are Nevertheless, the proportion of Young designers and firms based in Paris are creating chic, graphic looks pointing to the increased use of consumers expecting their in- with unusual twists, especially for evening. NEW YORK — Consumers are gift cards and the online shop- come to improve in the first six 4 ending 2004 on a high note, break- ping channel as more accurate months of 2005 inched up to 20.7 ing a four-month slide in the con- reflections of how consumers percent from 19.2 percent. GENERAL fidence index due to optimism were spending their hard- The monthly survey by the China will impose tariffs on 148 apparel categories starting Saturday in an about their income prospects. earned cash over the holidays. board is based on a sample of apparent response to international pressure to control its exports. The Conference Board’s Richard Hastings, an inde- 5,000 U.S. households. This 1 Consumer Confidence Index rose pendent economic consultant, month, consumers assessed their Consumers are ending 2004 on a high note, breaking a four-month slide in to 102.3 in December, up from observed, “I don’t think retail current conditions as significant- 2 the confidence index due to optimism about their income prospects. 92.6 last month, surpassing the sales will be down when the final ly more favorable than last The Wet Seal Inc., the Foothill Ranch, Calif.-based specialty retailer, said it 93.9 consensus projection by Wall numbers are tallied. The prob- month. Those viewing business will close 150 underperforming stores and slash 2,000 jobs. Street economists. It had been in lem is that retail sales figures conditions as “good” increased 2 decline since August. While the don’t take into account gift-card to 24.4 percent from 23.2 percent, SPORTSWEAR: Mainstream firms are looking for growth in the new year, Index rebounded in December to sales, which rose 8.1 percent while those who said conditions 6 whether it’s in a hot color, fresh launches or the right acquisition. its highest level in five months, it over last year, according to were “bad” declined to 17.8 per- Designers want to build on their 2004 momentum by opening more stores didn’t pass the high reached in Spendingpulse.com. Once you cent from 20.2 percent. in the U.S., while exploring Europe, Asia and other far-off places. July when it was at 105.7. Looking add in gift-card sales and holiday On the employment front, con- 6 ahead, the Expectations Index shopping online, spending by sumers who said jobs were “plen- MARKETING: Product placements are on the rise as an alternative to TV rose to 99.9 from 90.2 and the consumers for holiday is actually tiful” rose to 19.4 percent from 17.1 7 commercials, notably in apparel, autos, soft drinks and electronics. Present Situations Index jumped higher. Before, you really didn’t percent, while those who claimed Martin Margiela’s Renzo Rosso plans to double sales in three years by to 105.9 from 96.3. want to do any online shopping jobs were “hard to get” fell to 26.4 improving production and sales staffs, opening stores and adding lines. The surge in consumer confi- with dial-up connections. But percent from 28 percent. 8 dence sent U.S. stock indices to now, many have broadband and “The rise in confidence, Muscovites are thronging to shows by British designers such as Vivienne three-and-a-half-year highs. The other high-speed connections, which echoes other consumer 9 Westwood and Kim Jones, and buying Doc Martens and Pringle sweaters. Dow Jones Industrial Average which has helped spread online surveys, corroborates our expec- WEST: Talking with Susan Crank, president and ceo of Southern California rose 78.41 points to end trading shopping as a viable channel.” tation that consumption growth on Tuesday at 10,854.54; the Hastings also said the higher would remain solid this quarter,” 11 swimwear maker Lunada Bay, which will have its 25th anniversary in June. Nasdaq rose 22.97 points to confidence level bodes well for wrote Maury Harris, economist 2,177.19, and the S&P 500 gained retailers for early 2005. He ex- at UBS in a research note. 8.62 points to 1,213.54. plained: “If consumers can find The economist noted the index EYE “The continuing economic ex- jobs and borrow money, they’re at 102.3 is “neither exceptionally Dishing with actress and director Sabdrine Dumas over Earl Grey tea and pansion, coupled with job growth, going to go shopping.” high nor low. It is consistent with 16 macaroons at La Duree tearoom…Chatting with the spirited Ditty Bops. has consumers ending the year on Consumers were particularly an optimistic, but not overly exu- a high note,” said Lynn Franco, upbeat about the outlook in 2005. berant, consumer sector.” He also Classified Advertisements ...... 13-15 director of the Board’s Consumer Those expecting business condi- noted that the expectations com- Research Center. tions to improve increased to 22 ponent correlates more closely “The most significant con- percent from 20.3 percent last with spending growth, and that it To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is tributor to the rebound in confi- month, while those who antici- is at a level that “looks consistent [email protected], using the individual’s name. dence has been the overall im- pated a worsening environment with close to a 4 percent trend in WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 provement in current conditions plummeted to 7.7 percent from real consumption growth.” FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. over the past twelve months. 11.4 percent. Economist Harris of UBS VOLUME 188, NO. 135. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three And consumers’ outlook sug- Consumers also were looking noted in his research report that additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 gests that the economy will con- forward to an improved job mar- gift cards now account for 5 to 10 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; tinue to expand in the first half ket over the next six months. percent of December store sales. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior of the new year,” she added. Those expecting fewer jobs to be- He added that consumers likely Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- While retail sales during come available fell to 15.5 per- will “redeem only about 25 per- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at December have seemed some- cent from 19.3 percent, although cent of these cards by yearend, additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. what disappointing, suggesting those anticipating more jobs to delaying sales.” Purchases made POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. that cautious shoppers were become available slipped slightly using gift cards are not reported FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR walking the aisles on the prowl to 16.2 percent from 17.6 percent. until the cards are cashed. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Wet Seal Closing Units, Cutting Jobs these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND By Vicki M. Young TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE NEW YORK — The Wet Seal Inc. on Tuesday said ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. it will close 150 stores, shedding 2,000 jobs in the process. The Foothill Ranch, Calif.-based retailer said it was shuttering the underperforming Wet Seal stores as “part of a major restructuring plan.” A liq- In Brief uidator has been appointed to manage the invento- ry for the stores being closed, a process that is ex- ● NIKE BOARD SHIFT: Thomas E. Clarke has resigned from pected to be completed by the end of February. Nike’s board after a decade, but will continue to serve as the “While a difficult decision to make, it is neces- company’s president of new business ventures. Nike’s new pres- sary for The Wet Seal Inc. to reduce its cost struc- ident and chief executive director, William D. Perez, joined the ture and focus on those stores that can deliver the board today, and the total number of directors remains at 10. best performance as we implement our new mer- Philip H. Knight, Nike’s chairman, and Perez are the executive chandise strategy,” said Joe Deckop, interim chief directors of the board. Clarke, 53, joined Nike in 1980, and has executive officer. “We thank all of our employees held several executive positions at the company. Knight said in a for their continued commitment during these statement, “Tom will now devote all his energies to helping Bill challenging times.” Struggling Wet Seal announced Tuesday plans to close continue to build our non-Nike brand business.” The retailer said the costs associated with the 150 stores. store closings and severance for employees will ● CHIC SHEIKHS: The world’s second Palazzo Versace resort is be recognized in the fourth quarter ending Jan. months ended Oct. 30 swelled to $24.6 million, or destined for Dubai. Australia’s Sunland Group Limited and 29. It is currently completing its estimate of the 68 cents a diluted share, from a loss of $7.5 mil- Emirates Investment Group subsidiary Gulf Resources have related costs and expects to disclose the amount lion, or 25 cents, in the same year-ago quarter. formed a joint venture to build a Palazzo Versace hotel and con- next month. Sales fell by 15.9 percent to $110.8 million from dominium complex in Dubai, according to a recent filing on the Wet Seal operates 559 stores in 47 states, in- $131.8 million, while same-store sales declined by Australian stock exchange. Sunland also announced that it will cluding 96 Arden B. stores, which are not affected 12.6 percent. sell 49 percent of Australia’s Palazzo Versace Gold Coast in a by the closures under the Wet Seal nameplate. In a prerecorded call to Wall Street detailing deal valuing the hotel at 85 million Australian dollars, or about Wet Seal has seen better days. The troubled re- results, the company said that year-over-year av- $66 million at current exchange rates. The sale should be final- tailer earlier this month hired Joel Waller, chair- erage units sold dropped 7 percent while transac- ized by July 2005. Neither Sunland nor Gulf Resources could be man of Wilsons Leather, as its new ceo, effective tions fell 20.1 percent. The average units pur- reached for further comment, but a Versace spokesman said the Feb. 1. With 27 years of retail experience, Waller chased showed a gain of 26.7 percent, year-over- Dubai project is still in the planning stages and no further de- will be taking the helm from Peter Whitford, who year. Due to softer same-store sales and lower tails are available on possible locations or timing. Versace has a resigned on Nov. 9. Interim ceo Deckop will re- sales volume, the retailer’s gross margin as a per- licensing deal with Sunland for the Palazzo Versace project, gen- turn to his role as executive vice president when cent of sales suffered a steep decline, falling to erating revenue from royalties and the sale of products needed Waller joins the company. 16.2 percent in the quarter from 21.9 percent in to stock the hotel. The fashion company had said it was interest- Wet Seal posted third-quarter results on Dec. 1 the prior year. ed in lending its name to more hotel projects. that showed declining sales, a wider loss and The retailer is still in the process of seeking eroding gross margins. The loss for the three “strategic alternatives” for its business. Catch a Rising Star.

PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA

WWDYoung Hollywood Coated Stock Magazine: February 22 Close: January 18 Make an impact before the red carpet unrolls on Oscar night. Retail leaders, influential editors and entertainment industry insiders all look to WWD for the last word on the next generation of pretty young talents that will tear up the red carpet in style and help determine the retail trends for the coming season. Advertise in this special issue and demand your place in the spotlight. Consumer and Hollywood Bonus Distribution: • Customers at select retailers in major metro markets • WWD’s exclusive style-setter list: stylists, publicists, talent agencies, studio executives, and hot Los Angeles hotels.

For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 The Edge Of Night PARIS — Experimental fashion is still with us, and some of its most interesting current manifestations can be found in Paris. Young designers and firms based in the City of Light are creating chic, graphic looks with unusual twists, especially for evening. Sharon Wauchob’s look has a complex cut featuring draped pieces of silk, while Felipe Oliveira Baptista used a fitted cotton jersey sheet for a draped dress that looks as easy and comfortable as a T-shirt. At Blaak, the “eight-shape skirt” is high-waisted with a big triangular pocket on each hip.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s cotton jersey dress. Hermès bracelet; Stephane Kelian sandals.

Silk and viscose dress under a silk Gazar and duck feather jacket, both from Revillon by Rick Owens. WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 5 WWW.WWD.COM

Fabric Interseason’s Sharon Wauchob’s silk wool and silk tuxedo top and pants. Hermès jacket, shorts and and Jean Paul Gaultier waistcoat. Hermès necklaces. belt; Stephane Kelian sandals.

Tim Van Steenbergen’s cotton jumpsuit. Hermès belt and necklaces.

Blaak’s viscose cardigan and linen skirt. Hermès necklace and pumps. R; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER LAURENT R; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: AURORE MALATERRE AT NEXT/PARIS; HAIR BY TOMOKO AT CALLISTE/PARIS; MAKEUP BY ANGELIK IFFENECKE MAKEUP BY CALLISTE/PARIS; AT TOMOKO HAIR BY NEXT/PARIS; AT MALATERRE MODEL: AURORE KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004

Sportswear Report Looking for Growth in All the Right Places

By Evan Clark without steroids.” Disappointment: “I regret underestimating the NEW YORK — At the start, sportswear vendors had the importance of red in the November delivery.” wind at their backs in 2004. A wave of spring launches Goal: “To start making blue the new black.” in the better area from brands such as Jones New York and Calvin Klein benefited from a favorable economy Ken Sitomer, a principal, Apparel Holding Group and from the consumer interest they generated at retail. Accomplishment: “With the launch of DNA It’s In Shoppers grew more miserly during the second half, Your Genes, we have achieved a major branding depressing sales and taking some of the momentum diversification into the junior area. Now it from the launches and ultimately fueling some complements the men’s and women’s Caribbean Joe disappointment for fashion firms. The industry is along with its 12 licenses and the Periscope junior and focusing on newness in the new year. For Jones kids’ lines.” Apparel Group, that means the integration of Barneys Disappointment: “The confusion caused by the New York, while others are concentrating on another worldwide quota system, which kind of round of launches. discombobulated our sourcing strategy. At the end, it can be a Peter Boneparth, chief executive officer, positive, since it opened our eyes Jones Apparel Group that much wider to a deeper Accomplishment: “Clearly, the launch of Jones New global opportunity.” York Signature, the acquisition of Barneys New York Goal: “It’s like finding that and the revitalization of the Polo jeans business.” perfect wave, we would like to find Disappointment: “What’s been disappointing is the that perfect acquisition.” macro outlook in the back half. It’s really been a tale of Peter Alexander Kenneth goals two years — first half, [the industry] could do no Boneparth Vreeland Cole Michael Lerner, chairman, Marisa wrong.” Christina Inc. Goal: “Our first goal always is to maintain our produce the line. Accomplishment: “Setting in place a leadership position from a production and design Disappointment: “Not shipping for February. We’05formal strategic road map and especially standpoint…to continue to execute with the same level shipped [Calvin Klein better sportswear for March and focusing on meeting our customers’ needs for of precision as we did in 2004.” we think we missed a lot. Business was really good in more forward-looking merchandise. With our company, February.” we’ve been very traditional, so that was a big deal for Alexander Vreeland, chief operating officer, GAV Goal: “We’re launching our [Calvin Klein] casual us.” Accomplishment: “Establishing a look, establishing a line for spring of ’05. The successful launch of casual Disappointment: “While many stores still talk about fit, establishing a quality standard, establishing a price and the establishment of that business would be our product differentiation, most of them are really point. Calvin [Klein] never was in these price ranges biggest goal in ’05.” reluctant to try any new resources other than and it never had this size in women’s apparel. There’s a something emanating from the megabrands.” lot of establishing a business.” In June 2003, Phillips- Kenneth Cole, chairman and ceo, Kenneth Cole Goal: “To achieve substantial growth and continue to Van Heusen licensed the Calvin Klein women’s Productions work with our stores to heighten the visibility of Marisa sportswear to Kellwood Co., which works with GAV to Accomplishment: “Another year of record growth, Christina product.” Designer Crowd Has Ambitions on All Points of the Compass

By Eric Wilson Bolen’s role as ceo was made official in July and stirred a series of changes aimed at ensuring a steady growth, the designer said. NEW YORK — For designers around the globe, building a presence Apart from opening the Madison Avenue store in November, the in the U.S. has long been a critical element of their success. company plans to open locations in Las Vegas and Bal Harbour, Last year proved to be a time for making such marks for many Fla. It also changed its lending facility to enable de la Renta to in- companies, particularly with image-oriented retail ventures in vest in production capabilities so that he can grow his business in New York, resulting in a major makeover of Madison Avenue and U.S. stores. the 57th Street corridor to Fifth Avenue. Further downtown, the Meatpacking District had its own influx of posh hotels, restaurants Carlos Miele and designer shops, growing so quickly that some fear the immi- Catherine Malandrino’s store. For the Brazilian designer, 2004 was a year focused on building nent demise of the neighborhood’s hip factor. his presence in the U.S., having opened an in-store shop on the With such steps in place, however, designers are looking to 2005 to build third floor of the Saks Fifth Avenue flagship in Manhattan and acquired an on their momentum. In some cases, they plan to continue that expansion apartment just a block from his two-year-old signature shop in the with new ventures in Europe and further afield. Meatpacking District. “The most important step in my career this year was opening the shop in Catherine Malandrino Saks,” he said. “Now I am next to Armani, Dior, Oscar de la Renta, The delays were frustrating, but when Catherine Malandrino finally un- Valentino and Alexander McQueen — these are the designers I admire so veiled her retail space in the Meatpacking District in November, it marked much and they were the first names I heard of growing up in Brazil.” the completion of a corporate transformation 18 months in the making. The His goals for 2005 are just as ambitious. He’ll be opening another fea- kaleidoscopic space at 652 Hudson Street is filled with reflecting mirrors, tured space in the Saks Fifth Avenue store in Florida’s Bal Harbour Shops, exposed brick walls encased in glass and hanging metallic crystals that while also expanding his product offerings and global reach. show the full expanse of her product line. Oscar de la “I want to open a store in Paris next year,” Miele said. “I want to develop Construction delays throughout the year were Malandrino’s biggest dis- Renta’s store. my separates and become as strong in sportswear, even in jeans, as I am in appointment of 2004, but in the end, the effort paid off. dresses now. I also want to finish my apartment in New York and start to “It was a great way for me to finish off the year,” said Malandrino, before have dinner parties, mixing friends from art, fashion and theater. I want to packing for a Christmas vacation in France. “I really feel comfortable in have more of a chance to know people in New York. I really feel New York this new home.” is the right place to be.” Next year promises to have further adventures in store for the designer, whose goals, both personal and professional, happen to intersect. As part of Kimberly Newport-Mimran, designer of Pink Tartan a newfound wanderlust, Malandrino said she plans to explore some poten- Two years after launching her Pink Tartan label in Toronto, Kimberly tial markets for her designs. Newport-Mimran brought her bridge sportswear concept to the U.S. for “I’m going to discover countries that I have been very curious to find out fall, selling to Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and other specialty stores, about, especially Russia, Kuwait and China,” she said. “I’m doing a big trip while opening a showroom in New York to handle her expansion. If the in March and April, and I think it’s really going to open new horizons for name sounds familiar, it’s because the designer is the wife of Joseph me, too. I feel that those countries have been pretty unknown for me. Carlos Miele Mimran, the founder of Club Monaco, who is also involved in the Pink Tartan business. Oscar de la Renta Newport-Mimran worked in merchandising and product develop- He launched a moderate-priced collection with Kellwood Co. He ment at Club Monaco before launching her own collection, which dressed the First Lady and her competition in his signature collec- she described as the “clothes that I love and that I love to wear.” The tion for the presidential debates. He even opened a Madison Avenue Pink Tartan label features classic styles such as shirtdresses, pea- flagship. Yet when asked his biggest accomplishment of 2004, Oscar coats and turtleneck sweaters in high-quality fabrics. de la Renta replied without hesitation that it was the fact that he “Our biggest accomplishment this year was opening the office in had named Alex Bolen, his son-in-law, as chief executive officer of New York and exceeding all of our sales plans,” she said. “We’ve got- Oscar de la Renta Ltd. ten a lot of great editorial and we’re growing quickly. I want to con- “I haven’t finished achieving my goals for 2004,” de la Renta said. tinue that momentum and make the collection accessible to a lot “I just hope next year is going to be as good as this year.” more people, and I want to hang out in New York more.” Catherine Malandrino WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM Marketing A Whole New Show in Product Placement

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller measuring how often products and brand names appear Those dollars are also winning new interest from TV on prime-time shows on broadcast television. It reported and movie production companies, which have begun fun- LOS ANGELES — Product placements are on the rise as apparel made recognizable by visible brand names or neling product placement revenue back into marketing and an alternative to TV commercials. logos or by mentions was the top “brand occurrence” cat- promotions for TV shows in which a placement appeared. It’s a marketing tactic gaining ground most prominent- egory, seen or heard 653 times for the fall TV season The price networks can command depends on a ly in a handful of industries, including apparel, autos, soft running from Sept. 20 to Nov. 2. Nike was the most com- brand’s level of integration in a program. A product drinks and electronics — in large part because the effec- monly placed apparel brand, capturing 23 percent, or sponsorship, like the ever-present Coca-Cola brand on tiveness of commercials has come into question in an age 149, of those appearances. Fox’s “American Idol,” can cost around $20 million to $30 when new technologies, like digital video recorders and A TV ratings agency source cited an estimate that a million for a season. Plot placements mean a brand gets satellite radio, enable viewers to avoid them. combined $300 million has been spent on product place- worked into a script, another pricy venture costing any- The phenomenon’s importance has been unmistakable ments this year by ABC, CBS, NBC, Fox, WB and UPN. where from $100,000 to a few million dollars. in the apparel world as evidenced by the past merchan- Product plug overload can backfire with viewers, dise-moving ability of shows such as NBC’s “Friends” and however, as seen in shows such as NBC’s former pro- HBO’s “Sex and the City,” noted participants in an adver- gram “The Restaurant,” said Greg Solman, West Coast tising panel at the third annual HD Expo, held last month bureau chief of Adweek. “Everybody knew American at the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles. For Express paid for Rocco to use the card to open his rest- example, L.A.-based contemporary line Ella Moss saw aurant — especially when it led to an American Express sales spike after Sarah Jessica Parker wore one of the commercial starring [that character] saying he’d used brand’s items on “Sex and the City.” the card to start his restaurant,” Coles noted. “There’s a large opportunity for the fashion world to As a result, most brands would do best to err on the capitalize on the practice, as long as they can match a side of discretion — unless they get lucky. “Coke was in brand with a cast,” said Terrence Coles, director of sales front of everybody on ‘[American] Idol’ but the content and marketing for Pier 3, an entertainment marketing was so good that everybody forgave them,” contended company that has worked with such brands as L.L. Bean Richard Storrs, president of A Creative Group, a full- and Skyy Vodka. “You can’t create value for a client by service entertainment marketing agency and parent of throwing a bunch of things out there and seeing Creative Entertainment Services. what sticks.” Many brands pride themselves on getting free plugs in Fashion companies ought to think of them- TV shows by virtue of offering their newest products or selves as partners in placement ventures, through networking that enables brands to seed celebri- because the payoff could last for years, ties with products to be used in their everyday lives. Coles said. He pointed to the fall season’s Fox’s “The O.C.” and ABC’s “We haven’t paid for one dollar of product placement,” “Desperate Housewives” are viewed crop of fashion-centric shows — including as entertainment vehicles well suited said Davina Kent, TiVo advertising and research sales Fox’s “The O.C.” and the blockbuster to fashion product placements. manager, noting TiVo’s placement of its digital video launch of ABC’s “Desperate Housewives,” recording technology on “Oprah” and “Sex and the City.” which is averaging 20 million viewers per “If you know what a 30-sec- One challenge specific to fashion is achieving instant broadcast — as good entertainment vehi- ond commercial costs on a tele- viewer recognition for a brand. For example, it took time cles in which to place fashion products. vision show and if you have the until the Manolo Blahnik stilettos trumpeted by Sarah “‘Desperate Housewives’ is the show to be ability to measure the product Jessica Parker in “Sex and the City” became readily on if you’re a fashion brand,” Coles main- placement on that show, you now identifiable by the general public. Similarly, Johnson tained. “Those brands that got in early will have a [basis for] dialogue you can noted, viewers will identify logo purses by Coach more probably get to stick around for a while.” present to the customer,” Coles said. easily than a piece of lingerie from Victoria’s Secret. Halston won a significant placement in the Dec. Product placement’s growing preva- L.L. Bean got a boost, Coles said, when it provided 12 broadcast of “Desperate Housewives,” which fea- lence also means more money is changing clothing and accessories from slippers, to chambray tured a Halston fashion show, replete with silk gowns, hands in the endeavor, sparking a more integrated effort shirts, jeans and canoes for this year’s movie, “Welcome some with laser-cuts and others with hand-painted pail- between the marketing teams at various brands and TV to Mooseport,” a 20th Century Fox comedy starring Gene lettes. Even before the show aired, Halston designer shows. Increasingly, those efforts are superseding those Hackman and Ray Romano. “If fashion companies can Bradley Bayou related that he began fielding calls for of public relations people previously charged with han- get more than one garment on a show,” Coles said, “they similar outfits, spurred in part by the show’s stars, who dling such negotiations and are prompting ad agencies can really make a brand statement.” were wearing Halston designs to evening events. to create departments devoted to the practice. “It used to For maximum effect, however, brands that pull off What’s helping to legitimize the practice of product be considered a side option that public relations people successful product placements on TV programs and in placement is the ability to now measure it. How much would handle,” recounted Stacy Jones, vice president of movies still need to touch viewers in other parts of their does a placement help? Creative Entertainment Services, a product placement lives. “Fashion companies have to do more cross-promo- Nielsen Media Research, which has long generated agency. “Now marketing teams are working on it and tion — maybe store appearances — to make a more the TV ratings used to set ad rates, this March began [allocating] dollars to it.” meaningful statement,” Jones pointed out.

the strongest rankings in ad awareness, with a 12 per- cent response; brand image, with a 6.8 out of 7, and For Magazine Ads, Location Matters purchase intent, with a 23 percent response, it was fol- lowed closely by the inside back cover and horoscope, NEW YORK — Assessing the effectiveness of ad posi- purchases, a 76 percent correlation. and the table of contents in two of the three metrics, tions in magazines is gravitating from art to science. A surprise to Brand Keys president Robert brand image and purchase intent (see chart). Marketing consultant Brand Keys has found a high Passikoff was the strength of ad positions farther back Not surprisingly, the correlations between B2MC correlation between its brand-to-media consonance in the fashion magazines than the first several pages — and purchase intent were not as high as those between measure — which it applied to rate the overall impact and in some cases, deep in the books. “The issue is, B2MC and ad awareness and brand image, in two of of ads in different positions in magazines — and how ‘Can I predict where an ad may engender a better re- the three titles measured, Vogue and Cosmopolitan. As effectively those ads achieved awareness, established sponse?’” Passikoff said. “I expected placements far- Passikoff pointed out, “Personal taste comes more into brand image and prompted an extremely likely pur- ther back would not get reactions quite as strong.” play with purchase intent. Someone can be aware of an chase intent among readers. For example, while the Lauren Style ad in its origi- ad and like the brand image [portrayed], but that isn’t In short, the Brand Keys ad placement system nal position in the November issue of Vogue — a necessarily a predictor of a person’s taste.” marks an attempt to measure an ad’s return on invest- spread on the inside cover and first page — produced — Valerie Seckler ment based on its position in a magazine. Brands cur- rently using the system include Kohler bathroom and kitchen fixtures, Masterchem paints and primers and energy provider Keyspan. Brand to Media Consonance (B2MC): Ad Placement A fragrance ad for Lauren Style in the November issues of Vogue and Cosmopolitan and the December Ad Position Vogue, November 2004 B2MC Rank B2MC Ad Awareness Brand Image Extremely Likely to Purchase edition of Glamour was evaluated by a combined 1,600 (share of respondents) (scale of 1 to 7) (share of respondents) female readers of those titles, ages 25 to 40. Four hun- dred of those women were surveyed on the ad’s brand- 1. Inside front cover/first page 132 12% 6.8 23% to-media consonance, or B2MC, in each of the three 2. Inside back cover 130 11% 6.7 22% magazines, and 1,200 were asked to assess their 3. Horoscope 127 10% 6.8 22% awareness of the ad, image of the brand and likeli- hood of buying it, as they viewed the ad in eight posi- 4. Table of contents 126 8% 6.8 22% tions in each title. 5. Beauty editorial 123 6% 6.2 12% The strongest correlations between brand-to-media 6. Editor’s letter 121 5% 6.5 15% consonance and the three measures of the Lauren Style ad’s effectiveness were in Vogue (which, like 7. Page 3 112 5% 6.2 13% WWD and Glamour, is owned by Advance Publications 8. Second fragrance ad 111 3% 6.3 14% Inc.), where awareness of the ad showed a 92 percent Correlation with B2MC score 92% 93% 76% correlation with B2MC; brand image registered a 93 percent correlation with B2MC, and extremely likely SOURCE: BRAND KEYS, NOVEMBER 2004, BASED ON A SURVEY OF 1,600 WOMEN AGES 25-40 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Margiela’s new Paris headquarters is inin aa formerformer industrialindustrial designdesign school.school. Renzo Rosso PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY Getting Down to Business at Margiela

By Robert Murphy wear accounted for about 55 percent of sales, with men’s making up the rest. Margiela has 250 retail accounts around the world, and the majority of sales comes from Asia PARIS — The atmosphere remains decidedly edgy: The receptionist sits in a camper and Europe. Development in the U.S. is a priority for the company. trailer, the catsup and mustard bottles in the cafeteria are painted over in white and For spring, the so-called basic line, known as 6, is being rebranded MM6. It will the designer still won’t talk to the press. now include a wider variety of looks and prices. All of Margiela’s lines are known by But at the new Martin Margiela headquarters here, the iconoclastic Belgian de- number, from 0 to 23. Meanwhile, the so-called artisanal collection will become more signer is getting down to business. exclusive and couture-like. Margiela’s majority owner, Diesel entrepreneur Renzo Rosso, flew in from Italy “The lines are getting younger,” said Rosso. “We’ve increased 4 and 14 a lot. But for earlier this week to tour the quirky digs and chat about the house’s future. He said me, Margiela is really one line. For me, Margiela is a lifestyle brand.” Margiela plans to double sales to 60 million euros, or $80 million at current exchange Lifestyle may sound like anathema to a house that many considered an avant- rates, in three years by improving production and sales staffs, opening more stores, garde counterpoint to the industry’s wide focus on brand status and celebrity. and adding more lines, including accessories. Margiela’s garments are often assemblages of ratty vintage clothes; his la- “I have an incredible energy for [the house] right now,” enthused bels are invisible except for a stitch of white thread, and he continues to Rosso, who bought his stake in Margiela’s business two years ago. decline to meet the press or be photographed, making promotion “The company is ready to attack the market.” challenging. He continued, “In the two years that we’ve spent together, Margiela, as always, declined to be interviewed for this article. we’ve cleared the situation. The company wasn’t in such good But Rosso said he wants to nourish the house’s idiosyn- shape. It was run like a family. Now it’s organized, and we’re crasies. “I’m pushing Margiela to do more extreme fashion,” he building on that new faith.” said. “I’ve never seen him happier. He looks 10 years younger Rosso said improvements at Margiela included the consol- and is so charming right now. I think he feels relieved to be idation of logistics and production in Italy, the recruiting of a able to concentrate on creation. And now I’m here to talk team of nine designers to assist Margiela, and new sales and about the brand.” marketing people. Giovanni Pungetti, formerly head of Rosso was quick to dispel rumors that Margiela will de- Diesel France, has been appointed president of the house. sign a line for his Diesel jeans brand. “I have Diesel for that,” “We’re starting to analyze the brand,” Rosso said. “We he said. “I want Martin Margiela to do his thing.” now can measure selling and sell-out, and there is a real pro- Rosso said the house will not break with its insider identity duction system. We have early deliveries. I feel it’s a new by advertising, but that the company will communicate more start. We’ve come to know each other very well. What I didn’t aggressively. want to do is destroy the heart, the passion of the house. But I “We want to see the clothes on more VIPs. It’s new, but we’ll wanted to provide the tools to support the business. Now we have even do special clothing for VIPs.” professional people.” The new headquarters underscore Rosso’s ambitions for the 21- Rosso hinted at several projects in the pipes to drive sales, including year-old house. It occupies a 30,000-square-foot former industrial de- the introduction of a full leather goods and shoe line. He said a shop should sign school near the Place de la Republique on the Right Bank. Almost open in New York in 2005, with another to follow in Milan in 2006. The receptionist at Martin everything has been painted white, in keeping with Margiela’s trade- There are plans to move the Paris flagship, currently near the Palais Margiela sits in a mark style. The chandeliers have been wrapped in gauze, and employ- Royale, to a larger location. And growth in Asian countries such as camper trailer. ees go about their duties wearing white laboratory smocks. South Korea and China is being pursued. Margiela opened a London Rosso said this distinctive approach is Margiela’s strength. “It’s very shop last April, and operates two stores in Tokyo and one in Osaka. fresh and modern,” he said. “It’s about being unique, and it appeals to “We are open to doing a perfume and sunglasses,” said Rosso, adding that next people with strong personalities who don’t want to follow the crowd.” year will be a busy one for the house. He said he has learned from Margiela’s approach to marketing and applied some of Already since Rosso acquired the brand, Margiela has introduced upscale, classic the tactics used at Diesel. “It’s a lesson in staying select and being exclusive,” he said. lines for men and women, labeled 14 and 4, respectively, drawing on the designer’s Rosso said Margiela is “a long-term investment” and that he isn’t hunting for other experience overseeing women’s wear at luxury firm Hermès. acquisitions. Rosso said the success of those lines helped drive wholesale volume up 24 percent “Everything’s for sale today,” he said. “The market’s not so easy. We’re happy, be- this year to 30 million euros, or $40 million. A spokesman for the house said women’s cause while many companies are losing speed, we’re gaining ground.” work hard. play hard. WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM For Russia’s Fashion Savvy, the British Are Coming – in Droves By Natasha Singer MOSCOW — After His Royal Highness the Duke of York popped into Russian Fashion Week last month to attend a show by fellow countryman Matthew Williamson, Prince Andrew noted that it was the first time he had ever watched a catwalk event by a British designer. The same cannot be said of hipster Muscovites who lately have been throng- ing shows by English stylists from Vivienne Westwood to Kim Jones, and stocking up on everything from Doc Martens to Pringle sweaters. The British invasion has been building for months in stores, nightclubs and maga- zines. This year, Burberry opened its first freestanding boutique in Moscow across from the Russian capital’s stand-alone Jimmy Choo store; another Burberry unit is scheduled to open next year here in the GUM galleria on Red Square. Meanwhile, in its October issue, the Russian edition of Harper’s Bazaar ran a shopping feature called “Rule Britannia,” while last year Russian Elle devoted an entire issue to London. And, these days, Russian trendsetters are flit- ting about town in Lulu Guinness boots, toting oversized Mulberry satchels and driving Bentleys. “Russia is not yet in the top 10 export markets for U.K. fashion, but it will be in the next five years,” said Paul Alger, exec- utive director of the nonprofit trade asso- ciation U.K. Fashion Exports, who was in Moscow to check out the retail scene. “Ultimately,” he forecasted, “Russia will A look from be one of our top five export markets,” Matthew Williamson Alger estimated that British fashion in and two from Russia had sales of about 30 million pounds, Sophia Kokosalaki, or $57.6 million at current exchange, in all for spring 2005. 2003; he expects that, within the next five

and otherwise) begin to fill the shelves of The time is past when stereotype Russians wanted to look like clones Moscow boutiques, more Muscovites are “ developing their own personal styles. wearing luxury all the time. Now plenty of Russians who have money have the “The time is past when stereotype Russians wanted to look like clones wear- taste to buy things that are quirkier and lower-key. ing luxury all the time. Now plenty of ” Russians who have money have the taste — Ruth Addison, British Council in Russia to buy things that are quirkier and lower- key,” suggested Ruth Addison, deputy years, the yearly sales figure will increase to ers and our customers,” she said. carries Amanda Wakeley, Belville Sasson, director of the British Council in Russia, between 50 million and 90 million pounds, Packham’s line sells in U.K. Style, a Joseph, Pringle, Simeon Farrar, Roland as she watched a fashion show by or $96 million to $192 million. Mod boutique on Moscow’s tree-lined Mouret, Philip Treacy and Firetrap. London-based Gharani Strok during Indeed, the appetite for British brands Nikitsky Boulevard that is at the forefront “In 1997, Russians were buying Paul Russian Fashion Week. is so strong here that Russian Fashion of the Cool Britannia movement here. Smith. Later, they bought Alexander “I think what appeals to Russians Week devoted an entire day to U.K. The store, which uses a House of Windsor McQueen and Hussein Chalayan,” report- about British fashion is that it is high- designers. “British Day” included spring crown as its logo, carries brands includ- ed Anna Orsini, director of international quality, edgy, has a sense of humor and 2005 shows by Williamson, Sophia ing Pringle of Scotland, Griffin, Michiko relations for the British Fashion Council, allows them to be a bit different,” Kokosalaki, Jenny Packham and Tata- Koshino, Patrick Cox, Erickson Beamon, here to attend Russian Fashion Week. Addison added. Naka, a designer duo from the ex-Soviet Vexed Generation and Jasper Conran. “And now they are interested in British Whatever the reasons for Russia’s republic of Georgia who honed their craft Other Moscow hot spots for British fashion designers as diverse as Jenny newfound Anglophilia, the financial while attending Central St. Martins design include Podium — an upscale bou- Packham and Sophia Kokosalaki, which impetus behind the British fashion inva- College of Art and Design in London. tique that stocks Matthew Williamson, have a lot to do with glamour.” sion here is clear. “We already have five stockists in Clements Ribeiro, Julien Macdonald, Fake Veteran Moscow style-watchers have “Russia is one of the few markets in Moscow and two in St. Petersburg,” noted London, Jonathan Saunders, Anya theories as to why Russians, who have the world that is increasing,” notes Alger Packham, whose glamorous gowns are Hindmarch and Lulu Guinness — and become renowned the world over for of U.K. Fashion Exports. “Other markets gaining an audience in neighboring Parade, which sells Karl Donoghue and espousing total logoed looks, are now are getting more difficult, but the Russian Ukraine, as well. “It’s my first visit to Caroline Burns. Meanwhile, the TSUM turning to more eclectic brands. appetite for British brands is just growing Russia and I came to support our retail- department store near the Bolshoi Theater Certainly, as more varied labels (British and growing.” WWDSCOOP Premiere issue: March 14, 2005 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM China Details Apparel Export Tariff Plan

PHOTOS BY

Categories Included in China Tariff Plan AP PHOTO/STR PHOTO BY Continued from page one China’s apparel exports, although they categories are T-shirts, underwear, night- could discourage price slashing and wear and robes, outerwear, trousers, WASHINGTON — China released a list of 148 apparel export categories on which it encourage the Chinese to focus on better blouses and tracksuits. (See related table.) will impose tariffs ranging from $.024 to $.036 per piece or per set of clothing and merchandise. U.S. importers and retailers China exported $139.1 million in cotton $.06 per kilogram for parts or accessories, beginning Saturday. The following is a said unexpected additional costs are diffi- trousers to the U.S. for the year ended Oct. partial list of the targeted products: cult to absorb, but claimed the tariffs 31. China could conceivably collect $3.3 would not force them to pull business out million to $5 million in tariffs in that cate- Knits (women’s and men’s): Wovens (women’s and men’s): of China. gory alone. Similarly, imports of cotton ● Cotton and man-made fiber T-shirts. ● Wool, cotton and man-made fiber “For some commodity items, that tariff dressing gowns from China totaled $132.1 ● Cotton and man-made fiber overcoats and raincoats. could be quite a bit,” said Wendy Wieland million during the first 10 months of the underwear. ● Wool, cotton and man-made fiber Martin, vice president for international year. Chinese tariffs would range from ● Cotton and man-made fiber slips and suits, blazers and dresses. trade at Kellwood Co. “If someone is $3.1 million to $4.8 million. bringing in underwear or panties and pay- petticoats. ● Wool, cotton and man-made fiber The Chinese Ministry of Commerce ing $2 per garment, another couple of ● dress shirts and blouses. caught industry observers off guard in Cotton and man-made fiber underwear. cents is another couple of cents.” ● mid-December when it announced it ● Cotton and man-made fiber dressing Cotton and man-made fiber She conceded, however, that in the would tax its own exports. Lobbyists and gowns and robes. underwear, pajamas, nightwear overall scheme of things, the tariffs “prob- industry executives said the move was ● Cotton and man-made fiber suits, and robes. ably won’t mean a lot” to the bottom line. meant to demonstrate the country is con- blazers, trousers and skirts. ● Man-made fiber and cotton slips Brenda Jacobs, counsel for the U.S. trolling its industry’s growth in commodi- ● Wool, cotton and man-made fiber and petticoats. Association of Importers of Textiles & ty products and to assuage global fears overcoats, capes and cloaks. ● Man-made fiber tracksuits, ski suits Apparel, said, “Every little bit is a piece of that its apparel exports will decimate margin. It sounds small when you talk ● Wool trousers. and swimwear. industries around the world and imperil about the singular, but you have to think ● some 30 million jobs in the developing Rayon, Tencel, silk and vegetable fiber about the quantities people are dealing world when quotas are lifted. trousers. with and that is where the concern is.” Industry veterans also have speculated U.S. textile and fiber producers, on the that China made the move to recoup some of other hand, are skeptical of China’s action, the revenue it will lose when the quota system expires and quota charges are dropped. claiming the tariffs would have to be much higher to offset the advantages conferred Quotas have long been traded as a commodity in countries such as China, with prices ris- upon Chinese exporters by the nation’s fixed exchange rate and tax-rebate programs. ing as product categories began to be filled by the end of the year. Industry executives, both domestic and international, have suggested China made the Executives reacting to the recent export tariff list claimed that, although the tariffs are move to discourage the U.S. and European Union from taking more aggressive action relatively miniscule, they add to the overall cost of the garment and eat into profit margins. against its exports in the form of safeguard quotas. The U.S. is currently reviewing 12 peti- In the long run, the tariffs are not expected to curtail the overall massive growth in tions and is set to make its first rulings in early February. Judge Awards Polo Subsidiary $1M Lensman Bengoechea Missing in Asia NEW YORK — Polo Ralph Lauren subsidiary PRL Global Designer Apparel’s lawyer declined to NEW YORK — Photographer Fernando Bengoechea is among USA Holdings Inc. is finding success in its case comment on the ruling, as did lawyers for Fashion the scores of people reported missing in the wake of the devas- against Broadway retailers selling counterfeit Polo Apparel Industries Inc. tating tidal waves that killed thousands throughout South Asia shirts, with a federal judge awarding the company The rulings are part of a larger case that PRL on Sunday. damages totaling $1 million. filed in August that named more than a dozen Bengoechea was traveling in Thailand, according to his agent, U.S. District Court Judge Naomi Reice Buchwald defendants, all of whom operated out of locations on Beate Chelette, who said the photographer’s family is holding out in November issued two judgments, each against or near Broadway from 34th Street to 42nd Street. hope that he survived the tragedy. unrelated companies operating on Broadway in According to an amended complaint filed on She released a statement from the family, based in San Diego, Manhattan. Both judgments were reached on Aug. 25, PRL alleged violations on seven counts, that said, “We are praying for a miracle and are waiting for a tele- consent between the parties. However, the rulings including federal trademark counterfeiting and phone call from Fernando. He is a fighter and survivor.” were not filed in the court system until Monday. infringement, false designation of origin and Bengoechea, a native of Buenos Aires, Argentina, has been a Buchwald signed the first consent judgment on unlawful deceptive acts and practices. frequent contributor to The Los Angeles Times, The New York Nov. 10, ordering a permanent injunction against Most recently, Buchwald issued a preliminary Times, New York magazine, O The Oprah Magazine, Vogue, In Global Designer Apparel Ltd. and its principals, injunction based on consent against Ashley Reed Style and Harper’s Bazaar. Fred Marashi and Ali Rafiei-Tehrani, barring the Trading Inc. on Dec. 15. Ashley Reed Trading, Carolina Herrera said she and her daughter, Carolina Herrera sale of counterfeit Polo shirts. The judge also another named defendant in PRL’s August lawsuit, Jr., were photographed by Bengoechea recently for a commission awarded PRL $500,000 in damages. Judge operated out of a location on West 39th Street. by More magazine, planned to feature the Herreras and their fa- Buchwald issued a similar injunction and $500,000 Lawyers for Ashley Reed Trading could not be vorite places in Spain. Other designers who have been pho- damage award against Fashion Apparel Industries reached for comment by press time. tographed by Bengoechea for various projects include Tommy Inc. and its principal, Ramin Arasheben, on Nov. 29. —Ross Tucker Hilfiger and Donna Karan. WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM WWD West Lunada Bay’s Longevity Formula By Marcy Medina Susan Crank ANAHEIM, Calif. — Southern California swimwear maker Lunada Bay is approaching its 25th anniversary in June, and for the past 18 years has been headed by president and chief executive officer Susan Crank. Before joining Lunada Bay, Crank, 55, was sales chief for Ocean Pacific, which then licensed OP Beachwear to the company. Lunada Bay’s roster includes the in-house contemporary brand Becca, and licenses for Hurley, Lucky Brand Dungarees, David and Goliath and Mossimo for Target (which, unlike its other brands, is produced and shipped by sub-licensors). Crank is famously tight- lipped about earnings of the privately held, 80-person company, though industry experts estimate its annual volume at $35 million to $50 million. From her Zen- themed pale green office in Anaheim, Crank spoke with WWD on topics ranging from expansion to merger mania and the future of the California swim industry.

WWD: What’s new for the New Year?

Susan Crank: We are now thinking from a global perspective. We’ve been really careful, especially with the Becca brand, about where to expand business. We have some distribution in France, the U.K., Japan, Canada, Mexico and South America, but these are individual boutiques that have approached us. Now we are ready to make a big splash. I just met with stores in Australia, which is a great market for us. PHOTO BY ALEX ABERCROMBIE WWD: How does the industry differ from when you became president in 1987? A look from Becca.

S.C.: In the product category there were very few players in those days. Licensing was a new concept and this company was among the first with OP Beachwear.

WWD: What is the key to longevity? TEEN WOES: Charlotte Russe Holding Inc., which S.C.: You’re always stepping out and taking a risk in WEST WATCH operates 360 Charlotte the design perspective. But today you’ve also got to be a Russe and Rampage juniors’ stores nationwide, is the target of politician and get directly involved in legislation that a lawsuit seeking class action status for individuals who affects the business, and be a good negotiator. You’ve purchased shares of the company between Jan. 22, 2004 and also got to be an attorney to protect your brand on a Dec. 6, 2004. The suit, filed in New York by the law firm worldwide basis, an MBA to make sure you are fiscally Schatz & Nobel P.C., alleges Charlotte Russe issued false and sound, a mom to nurture all the people in your company misleading statements while failing to disclose that its and an entrepreneur. It’s ever-changing and just when repositioning of Rampage stores wasn't yielding results. The you think you’ve got your groove there are new rules. retailer declined to comment on the suit. Charlotte Russe has struggled for the better part of the year. and its stock has WWD: If the company has been performing well, why dropped by about 50 percent in the past six months. don’t you reveal numbers? SKECHERS ACCORD: Skechers USA has tentatively reached a S.C.: There are some advantages to being a privately $1.8 million settlement in three class action lawsuits held company. It’s not for us, it’s for the big corporations, brought by employees that accused the footwear maker of the people who are doing 10-year plans. We’re not big violating California's wage and hour laws. The Manhattan and we’re not tiny. Yes, we have been able to parlay Beach, Calif.-based company denies all liability in the some volume opportunities but we remain small in the claims. It estimated that the settlement, subject to court sheer number of people who keep us entrepreneurial. approval, would require a pretax charge of $1.8 million or The only number I will give is my age, 55. about 2.5 cents per share in the fourth quarter of 2004.

WWD: How has the consumer changed?

S.C.: I think women no longer in their 20s are more S.C.: That’s part of business today. We are watching WWD: What do you see as a solution? fit and interested in fashion than the generation before. those partners join forces from retail, manufacturing They are also buying more swimsuits. In 1990, you and textile perspectives. This company is extremely S.C.: The design industry here has always taken a shipped in a single group and it ran the whole year. entrepreneurial, and for that reason we have found it backseat to the East Coast. If the state could find a way to Now the consumer is moving so fast you have to bring in best to be on our own to take the kind of risks we want bring attention to the talent here it could change. They new product each market. to take and to make decisions that we know for the also need to make sure that those contractors who are swimwear segment are best, but that wouldn’t paying their employees to the letter of the law are WWD: How have retailers changed? necessarily be in a business plan of a sportswear- nurtured. Dwelling on the sweatshop aspect of the minded management group. business is just embarrassing, while the wonderful things S.C.: They need to differentiate themselves with new that most companies are doing are completely ignored. product. We are going to be offering exclusive groups WWD: With so many companies taking operations that are made just for them. It’s an opportunity for us to offshore, what do you see as the biggest challenge to WWD: How does the swim industry differ from cater to their consumer with some really unique items. doing/keeping businesses in California? sportswear? That plays into our strength in executing small but precious little runs. We’re not only about ‘How may S.C.: The apparel business is important in this state S.C: It’s a small community and there is a lot of thousands can there be?’ It’s also about finding that and we are watching it dwindle. We are one of the few mutual respect and camaraderie. Sportswear is fast. A perfect item, even if there are only 100. companies who have production in Los Angeles and name is hot today and it may not be tomorrow so Orange County. There’s a lot of flexibility that others may everyone is new and nipping at each other’s heels. They WWD: Are you looking to add anything to your have because they are using an import mentality and rarely have the attitude of, ‘As the tide rises, all boats portfolio? paying 20 percent of what we pay here to cut and sew our float.’ Instead they think, ‘As the tide rises, who can I swimsuits locally. Although we’ve got some high hopes push under?’ S.C.: There are new places to explore from a design with our governor, it is extremely onerous with [Assembly perspective and our distribution that can still have a Bill] AB633, which makes me a wage guarantor with WWD: What inspires you? tremendous upside for business. The designer area is an anyone whom I do business with. These are people that opportunity in terms of licensing or creating another in- the state is unable to monitor, so how they would expect S.C.: It’s very fun to take a little piece of fabric and house brand with the Rebecca V. name. Now we have access me to do it is ridiculous. When you couple that with the see how far you can take it. I live in Laguna Beach and to even more fabrics and are ready to venture into that area. paperwork for individual contracts for each and every there is nothing more exhilarating than seeing your cut, with higher minimum wage, with workers comp suits walking on the beach. On our 30th or 40th WWD: What do you think of all the mega-mergers in scenario... There’s been a little relief but as far as I’m anniversary you won’t see a diminished excitement the industry? concerned it’s a Band-Aid on a gunshot wound. about the product. It will be as passionate as it is today.

WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM Frederic Moreno Growing With Promotions

PARIS — Frederic Moreno, the al salons and a training center 2002, when it already owned the high- French hair salon business known for in Normandy in 2003. end Jacques Dessange chain and mid- slick marketing operations, is grow- So far, Moreno’s interna- range Camille Albane salons. These have ing at a rapid clip. tional presence includes one 488 and 283 doors, respectively. Industry “Constant promotions have been door each in Kazakstan, Pol- sources estimate that the Moreno busi- central to our marketing strategy since and and Spain; two doors in ness generates up to $59.7 million, or 45 the beginning,” said Moreno, stylist Portugal, and 11 in Switzer- million euros, per year. and managing director of the epony- land. The company expects to “The entry and midmarket sectors mous 166-door hair salon chain owned open approximately 16 more represent about 14 million potential by Dessange International group. “Our international stores during the clients in France, which equals about 1.6 customer is very reactive, since she next 18 months. billion euros [or $2.12 billion] in turn- usually lives or works right nearby.” Built on a franchising model, over,” said Moreno. Take the venture undertaken by one the company dubs its strategy The Frederic Moreno business will be of its salons in Lyon, France, for which “selective proactive.” For key to helping Dessange reach its goal of 500 local company employees were Moreno, that means expansion growing its overall business to more than sent invitations for a two-day price re- on two fronts: drawing more 1,000 doors, versus its current 883, by 2007. duction. The result was a 10 percent re- franchisees from a pool of — Tina Isaac sponse rate, all at zero cost to the chain. 20,000 independent salons Systematic promotional e-mails, across France through a contin- following a person’s first visit or to ual program of road shows in L’Oréal’s ‘Dream’ Beauty mark a birthday, are conceived to A promotional display for the Frederic Moreno concept salon. association with Wella, its offi- NEW YORK — L’Oréal Paris spokeswoman keep clients coming back, as well. business in other salons and to “dupli- cial supplier, as well as keeping a close eye Aishwarya Rai is scheduled to appear on Moreno also concentrates on grabbing cate winning efforts,” said Moreno. on the escalating needs of emerging mar- CBS’ “60 Minutes” this Sunday in a seg- the attention of passersby. The chain re- The system allows for price compar- kets in Eastern Europe. ment titled “The World’s Most Beautiful cently introduced an advertising concept isons, too. This is key, since accessible pric- To remain competitive and attract Women.” The Indian-born actress, who using its windows as a major marketing ing has been a mainstay of Moreno’s philos- salon owners to the franchise, Moreno was crowned Miss World in 1994, is the tool. One promotion, for instance, includ- ophy since the chain was founded in Lyon has what it terms a “light” franchising latest addition to L’Oréal’s mass market ed an MTV-style approach featuring a in 1996. (The average spend for a shampoo, formula. Yearlong, renewable contracts “Dream Team,” which includes Catherine wide-angle close-up shot cut and blow-dry package are fixed at $9,050, or 6,820 euros, for Deneuve and Andie MacDowell. Rai of hip young “fans” with is $33, or 25 euros, but doors with annual sales of less than signed with L’Oréal Paris as an interna- hands extended, set in- BEAUTY BEAT promotions bring prices $199,000, or 150,000 euros. Doors gener- tional spokeswoman in May 2003, and is side a pink bubble bear- down even further.) ating more than that pay $12,150, or 9,147 being introduced to the U.S. through TV ing a $22.50, or 17 euro at current ex- Last year, the salon revamped its inte- euros, and the fee for anyone to join ads for L’Oréal Paris Preference hair change rates, promotional price tag for a rior with dark wood and contemporary costs $5,060, or 3,812 euros. As part of its color. Rai is billed as the reigning “Queen wash, cut and style. furnishings and redesigned its logo in membership package, Frederic Moreno of Bollywood,” having appeared in more To keep salon owners up to date on black, red and white. Now, armed with its furnishes window campaigns. Imple- than 30 films in India. She will make her what’s going on within the burgeoning new image, Moreno is looking to expand menting the chain’s signature decor, U.S. movie debut this February with the franchised chain, Moreno has an intranet — both nationally and internationally. with polished wood and chrome fittings, theatrical release of “Bride and Pre- network recording each door’s promo- “We’re looking at opening about 30 costs $1,011, or 762 euros, more per judice,” a Indian revival of the Jane tional efforts. It also tracks traffic and more doors in France in the next six square meter. Austen novel by the director of “Bend It daily sales in real time. Such a system al- months or so,” said Moreno, who added Moreno’s profile made it attractive to Like Beckham,” Gurinder Chadha. lows salon owners to see what drives the company had inaugurated 80 nation- Dessange, which acquired the chain in — Molly Prior 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004

DESIGNER Contemporary Womens’ Manufacturer is seeking an Assistant Designer to help with its two labels Komarov and Kisca. Must have at Santa Monica, CA - Design Studio least 3 years in the better We are a design, sourcing and manufacturing agent with 15 years experi- contemporary market. ence. We serve the Men’s and Women’sapparel markets with higher quality Knowledge of textile and product that is trend right and proven at retail. Our clients include some of print design is required. the largest retailers in North America and also smaller to medium-sized, directional wholesalers. Please email resume to [email protected] We are about to embark on a new and ongoing design project for a "mass market retailer" and we are seeking applicants for the following positions: MEN’S DESIGNER (F/T) WOMEN’S DESIGNER (F/T) MERCHANDISING ASSISTANT (F/T) GRAPHIC DESIGNER (P/T or Freelance) Requirements for all positions include the following: • Understanding of the young contemporary market, trend analysis Merchandiser/Sample and research Room Coordinator • Experience with mass market retailers who are price sensitive LA, F/T highly organized, • Experience in wovens, cut & sew knits, denim and sweaters min. 5 yrs. exp. intimate • Experience in fabric and yarn sourcing, trim research apparel, full knowledge • Experience communicating with overseas factories and suppliers of patterns, fitting, bra (majority in China) construction, fabric/trims • Strong computer skills including graphic and design software (such as performance, costing, Illustrator & Photoshop) and administrative software (such as MS Office PDM & computer skills. and Filemaker Pro) Contact Donna: (818) 980-1688 • Good eye for details, excellent organizational and follow-up skills • Ability to work in a fast-paced, collaborative environment • Ability to communicate with and get along well with coworkers, customers and vendors IF you meet the above requirements, we want to hear from you. Please be prepared to submit a portfolio of current, relevant work for all positions (except that of Merchandising Assistant). Salaries depend upon experience. We offer a great work environment in Santa Monica, CA and a company One of the most dynamic and rapidly growing benefits package. retailers in the fashion industry is currently Please send a resume and brief cover letter, via email or fax. seeking to fill the following position in NO PHONE CALLS, PLEASE. Los Angeles, CA: E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 310-828-4323 SALES REP WANTED National Bridal & Prom Company Denim Designer Seeks Sales Rep for West Coast Territory Must be trend conscious denim designer with Join a well established, major company with a large existing accounts great eye for detail and strong technical and base. High paying position (six figures annual income) with excellent production skills for denim market. growth potential for self-motivated, bright individual wanting to travel twice a year. Bridal and Prom sales experience not necessary. West coast resi- Please fax resume to: dent preferred. Opportunity of a lifetime. The right attitude is essential. All Fax: 213-741-5196 responses will be kept confidential. Contact: Leakhana Lee @ Attn: Suzette Baguio, Denim Designer E-mail: [email protected] or Call 832-947-2000, ext. 2060

Forever 21 is one of the most dynamic and rapidly growing retailers in the fashion industry. NOW HIRING Field Visual Merchandisers

For the Following Districts Los Angeles, CA; Riverside, CA; San Diego, CA San Francisco, CA; Orange, CA; St. Louis, MO; Detroit, MI Minneapolis, MN (including Wisconsin and Iowa Stores) New York, NY; Albany, NY; Harrisburg, PA Arlington, VA; Annapolis, MD; Miami, FL Atlanta, GA (including North Carolina Stores)

• Responsible for an 8 to 12 store district. • 3-5 years of retail experience. • Minimum 2 years experience in merchandising and mannequin styling. • Train district managers, store staff and store visuals on company’s visual standards. • Communicate with district managers to ensure company wide consistency. • Participate in store openings and floor sets. • Travel is required. Please indicate district of interest. Please fax: 213-741-8995 Or email: [email protected] Attn: Human Resources Recruitment Team Job Code: FVM122 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 15

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS COMPUTER ARTIST All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Major Childrenswear Company seeks Call Sherry 212-719-0622. talented and experienced Girls Artist to work in Illustrator and Photoshop. Must be able to draw flats, create prints, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, embroideries. plaids, and appliques. Min. 2yrsexperience in Girls Apparel. Must PRODUCTIONS see a strong portfolio that includes boards. Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine Good working conditions plus benefits. fast work. 212-869-2699. Fax resume to Julie: 212-967-8108 or email [email protected] Design/Administrative Assistant Fast-paced Accessory Co. seeks well organized, creative person. Duties include prod. layout, repeat design & coordinates, 1407 BROADWAY presentations & archiving. Photoshop SHOWROOMS/OFFICES RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH & Adobe Illustrator skills nec. Starting TREBOR MGMT sal.= 25K w/growth potential & benefits. Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 Exclusive to the Fashion Industry Contact: [email protected] Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 244 Mulberry Street-Nolita 2,000 sq. ft with 22’ ceiling Nancy Bottali, Accessory 212-213-6386 Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Designer-Handbags Fax: 609-448-8248 Established accessory company is www.dumann.com launching a handbag division! Seeking www.raskinexecsearch.com experienced handbag designer with 488 Seventh Avenue knowledge of sketching and patternmaking. Please fax resume & salary requirements to: LIVE/WORK 212-563-0204 Small 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1575 Large 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1795 Wood floors. Hi ceils. Doorman. Immed. DSNRS - N/I/TODDS PLAYWEAR HI $ 212-629-8694 - MON-FRI - NO FEE Est’d impt cos seek exp individs for N/I/Todds licensed products. QUALITY SPACE A.D. FORMAN ASSOC Better prices. Shwrm/Office/Design 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 See me first. Call Allan Gallaway Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 Executive Sales Assistant EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES!!! We’re not looking for someone who wants a traditional environment. We TAYLOR HODSON WANT someone who is AGGRESSIVE, Assoc./Assist Production & HIGHLY motivated and a POSITIVE Merchandisers thinker, to join others who possess Freelance Positions Avail Immediately! these same qualities. Great opportunity e-mail: [email protected] to be involved in all aspects of the fax: (212) 924-1503 garment center. Sales, design and production. Competitive compensation package. Computer experience and retail math a must. Pls email resumes to: [email protected]

FASHION CAREERS In Design, Tech Design & Production See listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com High End Denim Sales Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 LA based manufacturer seeking Inde- pendent Sales Professionals for high Account Executive/ end women’s contemporary denim line. Exp aggressive sales reps for kids 2-6x Graphic Designer - Asst. Division Manager denim line. Good commissions offered. Ladies/Girls, Outerwear/Sweater Co. A premier mfr. of high fashion hosiery Fax resumes to: 323-586-4677 Att: Jacob. seeking Assistant Graphic Designer with seeks dynamic, results driven indiv. for 2-3 yrs. exp. Illustrator & Photoshop exp. women’s & children’s sales. Will oversee a must. Pls. fax resume: (212) 221.3964 &develop acct. relationships & direct sales activities to meet co. targets & goals. Req’s 4 yr. college degree with a min. 3-5 years sales exp. preferably in mfg./ HAPPY NEW YEAR! retail. Must be computer literate with Make a New Year’s Resolution to call excellent verbal & communication skills. Karlyn Fashion Recruiters in 2005. Please submit resume to: 201-871-9800 Email: [email protected]

8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant JOBS JOBS JOBS Best Deals On The Avenue *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men 511 - 4258 sq ft Beautifully Renovated *Designer Assist. PDM-sketch-spec, etc Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 *Designers-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men *Designer Assist 1-2 yr apparel exp or beginner ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE *Designer Junior woven tops - $Hi The Natori Company has an outstanding *Production coords - bilingual chinese oppty for an Account Exec. to join our *Product coord. liason between design & prod team based in NYC. The position will *Production:mgrs & coords & assists be responsible for managing existing *Sales assistant showroom exp or entry level &new dept stores business, Developing & *Technical Desgn&Assists&entrylevel managing sales strategy, & planning & Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) monitoring sales The ideal candidate should have 2+ years experience, have strong communication & presentation skills with the ability to travel & be exp. in retail math. All inquires will be Order Entry/EDI Person kept confidential. For consideration please Must be organized & detail oriented with mail resume & salary requirements to: good PC skills and very good knowledge [email protected] Administrative Assistant if EDI. Please E-mail resume to: Cut/Sew/Ship Immediate - to manage luxury show- [email protected] Small or big lots. We do markers and room A/R-P, invoicing, RTV, imports samples too. Call 973-266-0901 and general office management. Must be computer literate and bookkeeping M & J Savitt experienced. Quickbook exp needed. Strong, passionate Sales Associates with Pls. E-mail resume: [email protected] Sewing Machine Mechanic Men’s clothing; over 75 new Yukis, upscale jewelry accessory background. Brothers; exp req’d; salary; full bene- Excellent communication skills, minimum fits; Brooklyn; start immed. Fax re- 3yrs. experience in category retail training. sume (no calls) Attn: Leo 718-853-8805. Midtown NYC Office. Send resume to: Administrative Asst. Fax: (201) 563-0134 M & J Savitt NYC based designer, jewelry company, Attn: Sweater Companies seeks enthusiastic Assistant to support Looking for any size sweater company busy principals. Strong communication STYLECAREERS.COM for joint venture, takeover or to sup- and computer skills, Adobe a plus. CAD Designers - U4ia SALES port and finance in exchange for pro- Please fax resume to: (201) 563-0134 Sourcing Mgr - Wovens duction in our factory in China. Tech Designers - Mult Pos A children’s bag/accessory/sock co is Call Peter 212-268-2888 Pre-Production - Knits seeking a high level Sales person. The Buyers - Mult Pos ideal candidate will have 5-10 yrs exp ADMIN SINCE 1967 Planners / Allocators of selling both the mass market and W-I-N-S-T-O-N Designers - Handbags mid-tier market. This position will report Designers - Costume Jewelry directly to the President. Please fax APPAREL STAFFING Product Mgrs - Accessories your resume and salary requirements DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Send resumes: [email protected] to 212-564-9507 Attn: Personnel Dept ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 Sales Executives Leading accessory company seeks ex- Patterns/Samples/Beading Bookkeeper A/R, A/P to 35K. Min 1 yr. Sweaters - 2 positions perienced handbag sales executives Duplicates Cut & Sew exp req’d. Midtown co. Excel. Word. 1. SALESPERSON for a new division. Ideal candidates Full Service - Small Production Asst. at front desk. Good growth oppty. 2. TECH PERSON - Must speak Chinese have specialty and mid tier following. Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Ageny Call Peter 212-268-2888 Fax resume to: 212-563-0204 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Sandrine Dumas

She then directed her first play, “Chere Maitre,” by Peter Eyre, which opened this fall to strong reviews at the Theatre de la Gaite here. Though the play’s subject was challenging — it’s based on the correspondence between George Sand and Gustave Flaubert — Dumas handled it like a seasoned pro. She transformed the writers’ ruminations on the meaning of art, life and friendship into a breezy, entertaining repartee. A saxophonist, offering abstract riffs while ambling On Her Own across the stage, punctuated the intense moments with fitting levity. And though the characters’ luxurious dressing gowns had a familiar, sophisticated air, she bridles at the PARIS — Over Earl Grey and macaroons at La Duree tearoom, Sandrine notion that she would have even thought of outfitting them in Hermès. Dumas speaks in a conspiratorial sotto voce that draws you into the table. “My friends thought I was crazy to start with this play,” she explains. “I had to adapt She has deep chestnut eyes and fine brown hair. From her neck, a dia- it from English to French and there was really no example to follow. The play had been eye® mond-studded horseshoe pendant dangles on a ribbon. That single piece staged in England as a reading. But I wanted something different.” of jewelry is the only exterior sign linking her to the house of Hermès, to Dumas says her experience as an actress helped. “I wanted to bring the characters which she is related by her father, Jean Louis Dumas, chairman of the to life by thinking how they would feel each moment that they wrote a different word family controlled luxury firm. on the page. I wanted to make it lively. That’s what I think theater should be.” “I never aspired to that world,” she offers. “Hermès doesn’t need me.” She continues, “I’m so lucky. Everything went so well. It really makes me want to do And, of course, Dumas, 41, has been doing just fine on her own. another play.” Twenty years ago she started acting, piling up credits that today include films with direc- But in the meantime, she’s busy writing the script for what she hopes will become tors from Robert Altman to Milos Forman. And though she recently took some “obligatory” her first feature film. time off to focus on her family, giving birth to two boys, she’s come back with brio this year. “I want to continue to do theater,” she says. “But I won’t abandon film. What I love In an important career move, she stepped behind the camera for the first time, about making a movie is the moment filming begins. With a play, I love rehearsals. directing a short film, “Bodyguard,” about a young boy who doesn’t want his sister to They force you into a searching mode. You have to consider and to reconsider every grow up. It was honored with a special jury prize at the Berlin Film Festival. aspect of the character.” — Robert Murphy

knew, the folks at Petro Zillia were requesting to collaborate with the Dittys for the following runway season. And so the Petro models sashayed down BOPPING ALONG the runway to “the retro-optimistic and NEW YORK — As fans waited in line for Nancy weekend. The girls, both 26, and two of their ultrapositive sounds of The Ditty Bops’ music,” Sinatra’s second of two shows at Joe’s Pub here band members — John Lamdin on violin and Tochterman said when describing the early this month, a young hipster exiting the first Greg Rutledge on piano — bopped out in full inspiration behind her spring collection during show bombarded them with, “Oh my god, I just sequined glory, the former two in sparkly Los Angeles Fashion Week in October. talked to one of the girls from The Ditty Bops!” minidresses and headbands (and Barrett’s DeWald’s background in illustration has Huh? flaming red mohawk), and the latter two in also worked its way into the Ditty project. Not “He probably couldn’t get to Nancy, so he stretchy leggings and capes. only does the former farmers’ market worker settled for us,” laughs Amanda Barrett, one-half While most of their costumes are thrift store from Northern California draw the quirky of the spirited Ditty Bops, Sinatra’s opening act. finds — such as the Joe’s Pub night’s black sketches on the band’s Web site, Probably not. corsets and bouncy pink and blue tutus they dittybops.com, but she has designed the After all, the Andrews Sisters-esque picked up at The Stella Dallas Look, a vintage band’s album jacket, flyers, stickers and even harmonies and ragtime-bluegrass-Twenties- apparel store here — DeWald and Barrett “Superheroes” a stage backdrop as well. style ditties of Barrett and Abby DeWald are hardly are opposed to designer stage getups. In Amanda Barrett “When I got out of school, I wanted to try to just a lot of fun. fact, local L.A. designers have begun and Abby DeWald get into illustrations for kids’ books,” she But the music’s only half the show. Fresh approaching the duo with offers to create at their Halloween explains, “but so far it’s great because…I get from promoting their self-titled debut album custom-made apparel for Ditty Bops shows, to do my art with this project.” weekend show.

during their October tour with the Dresden “but as of right now, no one has followed HISERT KATIE PHOTO BY While the girls have been collaborating Dolls, the Ditty’s onstage wardrobes depend through with that promise,” DeWald sighs, then musically for nearly three years, neither was entirely on the theme. “When we’re playing, perks up and laughs: “So anybody wanting to of have to put you on the shelf because you’re the proverbial aspiring musician. In fact, they it’s all about the theme,” DeWald, the band’s do that, we welcome them to contact us!” too busy,’ I said, ‘OK!’” were performing one of their first shows acoustic guitarist, explains. Barrett is no stranger to the designer world. It was this modeling connection, however, together when Warner Bros. reps showed up “It’s not always glamorous,” Barrett adds, Modeling since she was 15, the L.A. native has that grabbed the ear of Petro Zillia designer and immediately wanted to sign them. “and sometimes [the themes] are all about seen the world, but gradually has begun to trade Nony Tochterman. “We [do] wear a lot of Petro Amid the new album and national tours, puffy dresses, and sometimes we’re dudes.” in her runway-strutting for more mandolin- Zillia because Amanda has worked with [Nony] however, DeWald and Barrett aren’t too worried Take, for instance, the red-and-black- strumming time. “That’s why I went red,” she and we love her designs,” says DeWald. if this band thing doesn’t work out: “We’ll just spandexed “superheroes” who graced the laughs, motioning to her hair. “I always wanted After last season’s show, Barrett dropped go back to working farmers’ markets or modeling stage at CB’s Gallery here on Halloween to go red…so when [my agencies] said, ‘We kind off a Ditty Bops flyer, and next thing the band or something,” Barrett laughs. — Lisa Kelly