Playing the Tulle PARIS — Evening Dresses Can Have a Retro Chic, Be Reminiscent of Old Hollywood Or Be Livelier and More Experimental
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CONFIDENCE GROWS AGAIN/2 WET SEAL CLOSING 150 UNITS/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • December 29, 2004 • $2.00 Sportswear Playing the Tulle PARIS — Evening dresses can have a retro chic, be reminiscent of Old Hollywood or be livelier and more experimental. Some of Paris’ newer designers and houses are going in the last direction this season, with distinctive looks featuring innovative details. Here, for example, Bruno Pieters’ cotton tulle bustier dress with an attached top, worn with a Jean Paul Gaultier bracelet and necklace and Sharon Wauchob wedges. For more imaginative styles, see pages 4 and 5. China’s New Tariff Plan: Export Charges Cover 148 Product Categories By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — China will impose tariffs on STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER LAURENT STYLED BY 148 categories starting Saturday in an apparent response to international pressure to control its apparel and textile exports. The move coincides with the elimination of the remaining vestiges of a 30-year-old quota system among World Trade Organization member countries. The Chinese government said it will levy duties ranging from 2.4 cents to 3.6 cents per piece or per set of clothing, and 6 cents per kilogram for parts or accessories. Among the targeted export See China, Page10 PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: AURORE MALATERRE/NEXT, PARIS; HAIR BY TOMOKO AT CALLISTE/PARIS; MAKEUP BY ANGELIK IFFENECKER; MAKEUP BY CALLISTE/PARIS; AT TOMOKO HAIR BY PARIS; MALATERRE/NEXT, MODEL: AURORE KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Consumer Confidence Surprise FASHION By Vicki M. Young for bargains, economists are Nevertheless, the proportion of Young designers and firms based in Paris are creating chic, graphic looks pointing to the increased use of consumers expecting their in- with unusual twists, especially for evening. NEW YORK — Consumers are gift cards and the online shop- come to improve in the first six 4 ending 2004 on a high note, break- ping channel as more accurate months of 2005 inched up to 20.7 ing a four-month slide in the con- reflections of how consumers percent from 19.2 percent. GENERAL fidence index due to optimism were spending their hard- The monthly survey by the China will impose tariffs on 148 apparel categories starting Saturday in an about their income prospects. earned cash over the holidays. board is based on a sample of apparent response to international pressure to control its exports. The Conference Board’s Richard Hastings, an inde- 5,000 U.S. households. This 1 Consumer Confidence Index rose pendent economic consultant, month, consumers assessed their Consumers are ending 2004 on a high note, breaking a four-month slide in to 102.3 in December, up from observed, “I don’t think retail current conditions as significant- 2 the confidence index due to optimism about their income prospects. 92.6 last month, surpassing the sales will be down when the final ly more favorable than last The Wet Seal Inc., the Foothill Ranch, Calif.-based specialty retailer, said it 93.9 consensus projection by Wall numbers are tallied. The prob- month. Those viewing business will close 150 underperforming stores and slash 2,000 jobs. Street economists. It had been in lem is that retail sales figures conditions as “good” increased 2 decline since August. While the don’t take into account gift-card to 24.4 percent from 23.2 percent, SPORTSWEAR: Mainstream firms are looking for growth in the new year, Index rebounded in December to sales, which rose 8.1 percent while those who said conditions 6 whether it’s in a hot color, fresh launches or the right acquisition. its highest level in five months, it over last year, according to were “bad” declined to 17.8 per- Designers want to build on their 2004 momentum by opening more stores didn’t pass the high reached in Spendingpulse.com. Once you cent from 20.2 percent. in the U.S., while exploring Europe, Asia and other far-off places. July when it was at 105.7. Looking add in gift-card sales and holiday On the employment front, con- 6 ahead, the Expectations Index shopping online, spending by sumers who said jobs were “plen- MARKETING: Product placements are on the rise as an alternative to TV rose to 99.9 from 90.2 and the consumers for holiday is actually tiful” rose to 19.4 percent from 17.1 7 commercials, notably in apparel, autos, soft drinks and electronics. Present Situations Index jumped higher. Before, you really didn’t percent, while those who claimed Martin Margiela’s Renzo Rosso plans to double sales in three years by to 105.9 from 96.3. want to do any online shopping jobs were “hard to get” fell to 26.4 improving production and sales staffs, opening stores and adding lines. The surge in consumer confi- with dial-up connections. But percent from 28 percent. 8 dence sent U.S. stock indices to now, many have broadband and “The rise in confidence, Muscovites are thronging to shows by British designers such as Vivienne three-and-a-half-year highs. The other high-speed connections, which echoes other consumer 9 Westwood and Kim Jones, and buying Doc Martens and Pringle sweaters. Dow Jones Industrial Average which has helped spread online surveys, corroborates our expec- WEST: Talking with Susan Crank, president and ceo of Southern California rose 78.41 points to end trading shopping as a viable channel.” tation that consumption growth on Tuesday at 10,854.54; the Hastings also said the higher would remain solid this quarter,” 11 swimwear maker Lunada Bay, which will have its 25th anniversary in June. Nasdaq rose 22.97 points to confidence level bodes well for wrote Maury Harris, economist 2,177.19, and the S&P 500 gained retailers for early 2005. He ex- at UBS in a research note. 8.62 points to 1,213.54. plained: “If consumers can find The economist noted the index EYE “The continuing economic ex- jobs and borrow money, they’re at 102.3 is “neither exceptionally Dishing with actress and director Sabdrine Dumas over Earl Grey tea and pansion, coupled with job growth, going to go shopping.” high nor low. It is consistent with 16 macaroons at La Duree tearoom…Chatting with the spirited Ditty Bops. has consumers ending the year on Consumers were particularly an optimistic, but not overly exu- a high note,” said Lynn Franco, upbeat about the outlook in 2005. berant, consumer sector.” He also Classified Advertisements ..................................................................13-15 director of the Board’s Consumer Those expecting business condi- noted that the expectations com- Research Center. tions to improve increased to 22 ponent correlates more closely “The most significant con- percent from 20.3 percent last with spending growth, and that it To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is tributor to the rebound in confi- month, while those who antici- is at a level that “looks consistent [email protected], using the individual’s name. dence has been the overall im- pated a worsening environment with close to a 4 percent trend in WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 provement in current conditions plummeted to 7.7 percent from real consumption growth.” FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. over the past twelve months. 11.4 percent. Economist Harris of UBS VOLUME 188, NO. 135. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three And consumers’ outlook sug- Consumers also were looking noted in his research report that additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 gests that the economy will con- forward to an improved job mar- gift cards now account for 5 to 10 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; tinue to expand in the first half ket over the next six months. percent of December store sales. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior of the new year,” she added. Those expecting fewer jobs to be- He added that consumers likely Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- While retail sales during come available fell to 15.5 per- will “redeem only about 25 per- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at December have seemed some- cent from 19.3 percent, although cent of these cards by yearend, additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. what disappointing, suggesting those anticipating more jobs to delaying sales.” Purchases made POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. that cautious shoppers were become available slipped slightly using gift cards are not reported FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR walking the aisles on the prowl to 16.2 percent from 17.6 percent.