Traditional Jasmine Tea from Fujianprovince, China: Ethereal Cups of Sublime Tea Drinking Pleasure

Traditional Jasmine Tea from FujianProvince, China: Ethereal Cups of Sublime Tea Drinking Pleasure . By Mary Lou Heiss PROFILE Mary Lou Heiss is the co-owner of Cooks Shop Here in Northampton, Ma (www.CooksShopHere.com) a unique tea and specialty foods store established in 1974. She is the aUthor of Green Tea: Hot Drinks, Cool Quenchers and Sweet and Savory Dishes, and co-aUthor with Robert J. Heiss of The Story of Tea: A Cultural History and Drinking Guide. or me, there is no more splendid aroma carries the lingering aroma of these blossoms than the rich, luxurious fragrance of great distances. F jasmine blossoms (family: Oleaceae, China's long and impressive list of genus: Jasminum). On a recent trip to a exceptional teas is comprised of thousands botanical garden I discovered that I had of variations of leaf styles in six classes of tea arrived at the perfect time. The various -black, green, oolong, puerh, white and species of resident jasmine vines were in full yellow. Flower scented teas such as jasmine bloom, and I was thrilled to be surrounded by have been enjoyed in China for centuries, such a concentration of this heady and and delicious examples of these seductive exotic aroma. I closed my eyes, inhaled teas can be found in several of these deeply, and let the transcendent fragrance different classes of tea. conjure up dreamy images of exotic places Historically, different classes of tea and warm sultry nights. became associated with specific tea As I left the garden drunk on these producing regions, and within each class of exhilarating aromas, I began to mentally tea many special teas developed. Many of relive the visit I made last y~ar to a traditional China's revered teas still exist today-some of jasmine tea factory in Fujian Province, China. these teas are known as the 'Famous Teas' There, the pervasive fragrance of jasmine while others are more familiar to local blossoms dominates the area during the hot populations of tea drinkers on a regional and humid summer, and the gentlest breeze .. basis. Nevertheless, each of these teas 24 TheArI of .,.., TEA I la pi IA reflects regional taste preferences and local Flamboyant and sweet-tempered jasmine tea making traditions in these regions. lea is the primary jewel in the crown of )1 Since the tumultuous days of the China China's scented teas, and in the north of ~5 Tea Trade in the 18th century, the West has China one is most likely to be served a cup of a embraced many Chinese teas, but one of jasmine tea before or after a meal. Serving d the perennial favorites is China's heady and ,iasmine tea to guests is considered a sign of e exotic flower-scented teas. The process of hospitality and welcome. ;, imbuing the lush, sweet perfume of aromatic There are many quality grades of jasmine e blossoms to tea leaves was perfected during tea, determined by the fineness of the leaf e the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). In the earlier pluck, the freshness and condition of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) compressed tea jasmine blossoms used and the number of cakes were flavored with sweet fruit pastes times fresh jasmine blossoms are introduced and sometimes flower oils, but the addition of to the prepared base tea. Different quality fresh blossoms to leaf tea belongs to the levels of jasmine tea are manufactured and flower-loving cult of Ming-era tea processors. range from the sophisticated and sublime to Since that time the addition of the glorious the mundane and cloying. perfume of fresh chrysanthemum, gardenia, China is a vast country and many tea- II jasmine, osmanthus, rose, and yulan producing provinces cultivate jasmine flowers II (magnolia) blossoms has provided moments and manufacture jasmine tea. These include :5 of delight to the relaxing pleasure of tea Fujian, Guangdong, Hunan, Jiangsu, Jiangxi, drinking. Sichuan, and Zhejiang provinces. As with any The Art Of Tca Magazinc 25 scented jasmine tea is historically linked to Fujian Province in eastern China. Here, jasmine tea has always been the specialty of tea factories located in the vicinity of Changle, on the outskirts of Fuzhou city. Fortunately for today's tea aficionados, skilled tea workers in small local tea factories located there ta ke pride in their artisan When you experience just one taste of grades of specialty jasmine tea and still the delicate flavors and intoxicating follow the required steps of traditional aromas of these traditional jasmine teas jasmine tea manufacture to scent their you will appreciate the difference. exquisite teas. When you experience just one taste of the delicate flavors and intoxicating aromas of these traditional jasmine teas you will appreciate the difference. I like to think that Ming-era tea lovers would be delighted to know that these teas are still being made today. Since the days of the China Tea Trade, Fujian has been a treasure trove of key commodity, standardization and uniformity Chinese teas such as the broad-leafed, pine- of product produces common, smoked Lapsang Souchong, the revered undistinguished tea. Much of the lowest Wuyi Si Da Ming Cong Cliff Oolongs such as quality jasmine tea is made for general Da Hong Pao and Ti Lo Han, traditional consumption and for use in Chinese varieties of bud-set white tea and the ball- restaurants both in China and the west. These rolled Tieguanyin (Iron Goddess of Mercy) teas use summer-harvest pluck (which is oolongs teas. Fujian jasmine teas are highly larger and coarser leaf) and are given only regarded not only for the quality of the leaf one or two scentings with fresh blossoms. but also for the ethereal quality of the fresh Even worse, these inexpensive jasmine teas jasmine blossoms (Arabian Jasmine Sambac) are often 'scented' in tea factories by simply that ~:ue cultivated on jasmine bushes grown spraying tea leaf (of whatever origin and in the environs of the tea factories. class of tea) with jasmine extract. In Fujian Province, leaf from several But all Chinese teas have one special different bush varieties of Camilla Sinensis is place where they are best understood and plucked to make various styles of jasmine interpreted, and, accordingly, traditionally tea. This includes leaf from white tea varietals 26 The Art of TEA such as Fuding Do Bai (Fuding Big White) and Pouchong tea is made solely for use in flower Fuding Do Hao (Fuding Big Sprout), which hail scented teas. from the vicinity of the town of Fuding. This Jasmine tea is a two-step process that leaf is used to make white jasmine teas such begins in the spring and is finished in mid to as the long, downy-hair covered bud-only late summer. The tea is made from freshly Silver Needles jasmine (Bai Hao Yin Zhen), plucked spring leaf but jasmine bushes flower and Jasmine Dragon Pearls, a leaf and bud- on a different cycle and do not produce set white tea that is made from the Fuding their famous blossoms until the sweltering, hot Do Bai varietal. Jasmine Dragon Pearls and humid days of late July. requires the use of this slightly larger leaf, so Because of this offset in the timing of that workers can successfully hand-roll the production, the base tea must be made leaf into a finished 'pearl.' ahead of time and packed up to await the However, these teas are the exception. arrival of the aromatic flower blossoms. When The base tea used for most Fujian jasmine tea the time is right for the blossoms and the tea is special. Jasmine tea is often referred to as to be 'married' the base tea must be such being green or white or oolong tea, but, that it is able to absorb the perfume of the while some specific varieties are made from jasmine blossoms as completely as possible white tea, most Fujian jasmine tea such as i"nto every pore of every leaf. And this ability Jasmine Silver Hair (Yin Hao Jasmine) and is controlled by the nature of the base tea. Jasmine Spring Hao Yo are made from a This base tea is called zoo pei (tea base tea that it is similar to all of these but readied). Zoo pei is made by first de- different from them. Correctly, this tea is enzyming the fresh leaf, then by rolling the ; Pouchong tea (not to be confused with leaf to break up the cell structure within the Baozhong or Paochong oolongs from Taiwan leaf. The leaf is then quickly dried with which are true oolongs that have been given indirect heat from hot air that is blown over a light oxidization and which possess a the leaf as it travels through a drying visually different leaf style). Every province machine. This creates a very different leaf that man~factures jasmine tea will use a style than leaf that is dried by direct-hea.t different base depending on preferences of methods such as pan-firing or basket firing. the local population, so in some places in These traditional techniques of drying would China black tea is used. expose the leaf to heat that is too hot and Pouchong is best understood as a very the leaf would curl and twist; the object in lightly oxidized tea that is not bruised as in creating zoo pei is to keep the leaf traditional oolong manufacture but is de- somewhat straight and flat in order fo retain enzymed as in green tea manufacture. With the maximum amount of surface area for the exception of the preference by locals in absorbing the fragrance from the blossoms.

Load more