www.icelandictimes.com Adventure tours Scheduled flights Air charter services every part of body and spirit is exercised to the maximum in this land of extremes. It’s easy to use superlatives, but this is one occasion where they are merited. How else hen summer comes, Iceland opens In this, the largest issue to date, we present can life-changing sights and experiences be up just like the many different some of that wide range of facets that make described? Experience excitement in varietiesW of flowers that bloom across the a summer visit to Iceland so different from the We invite you to investigate this Land of land. Like those flowers, there is such a more common holidays. Fire and Ice yourself and see if you agree with variety of activities to do, sights to see and No magazine can do the country justice, all that has been written here. Yet, you will Iceland’s pure nature or get things to experience. however; every sense, every emotion and still only be scratching the surface! –asf Contents a bird’s eye view of the Iceland best enjoyed from a bike saddle...... 4-5 Stay by the Bay...... 51 Kaffi Steinn & Guest House...... 97 Keep Your Memories Alive...... 6 Stay in Style...... 52 What One Woman Can Do...... 98-99 Vikingwear, Past and Present...... 8 The English Houses with History and Soul...... 52 country’s most beautiful places Embraced by Nature in East Iceland...... 100 On the Waterfront...... 10 Relax in Reykholt...... 53 Home Cooking, German-Style...... 101 A Gourmet Experience to Remember...... 12 Surrounded By Nature...... 54 Just Begging to be Explored...... 102 A Viking’s Life...... 14-15 The Call of the Countryside...... 55 Rural Romantic Paradise...... 103 A Legend Down by the Docks...... 16 Touring Iceland from above and below...... 56-57 Hotel Framtíð of Djúpivogur...... 104-105 Jewellery from the Goddess of the Sea...... 17 The Man Called ‘President’...... 58 The Gateway to East Iceland...... 106 Experience the Force of Nature...... 18 Unique Adventure Tour...... 58 Eyjólfsstaðir Guest House...... 107 Sjóhatturinn Souvenirs...... 19 Europe’s Last Frontier...... 59 You can’t judge a rock by its cover...... 107 DAY TOUR DAY TOUR Harbourside Sushi...... 20 Dine at the Danish House...... 60 Fashion design goes all-natural...... 108 Shop from Your Hotel Room...... 20 Hólmavík’s Harbour House...... 61 The Iconic Jökulsárlón...... 110 See Iceland with Fresh Eyes...... 21 Trolling the Westfjords...... 62 Europe’s Largest Glacier...... 111 Effective and Pure...... 22 Fishing with the Fisherman...... 63 Humarhöfnin of Höfn...... 112 Whales, Dolphins, Puffins and Fish...... 23 Who’s Watching Whom?...... 64 Oasis Under the Glacier...... 113 Close-knit...... 24 Taking the Time to Experience Iceland...... 66-67 Here today, changed tomorrow ...... 114-115 A New Memory Each Month...... 24 Europe’s Only Fish Tannery...... 68 Nothing in Sight but Nature...... 116 Noodle Station Reykjavik...... 25 Leather from the Sea...... 69 Under the Glacier...... 117 A Passport around Iceland...... 26 The Pearl of Drangey...... 70 Knit-Wits...... 118 Sketching for Supper...... 27 The Most Valuable Servant...... 71 Recording a Changing World...... 120 Stay Healthy in Iceland ...... 28-29 Make Friends in History...... 72 Hotel Skógar...... 121 Carefree Shopping and Dining...... 30 Light in the North...... 73 A Meaningful Slice of Life...... 122 Oldest Vegetarian Restaurant...... 31 For the Adventurous...... 74 Ice & Adventure Tours...... 122 Activity Adventure A Historical Tour of the Westman Islands Shop and Enjoy...... 32-33 A Dream Come True...... 75 Perfect Place to Stay in Iceland...... 123 Self-Driving Made Easy...... 34 Living Inside...... 76 Þjóðveldisbærinn...... 124 Dine with the Chef of the Year...... 35 To Grandmother’s House We Go...... 77 Eldstó Art Café & Restaurant...... 125 Boat trip on the Glacier lagoon and an ATV excursion This tour takes you from Reykjavík to the island The Spirit of Iceland ...... 36 A Comfortable Place to Base...... 78 The Portal to Exhilaration...... 126-127 in the area of Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. of Heimaey in the Westman Islands archipelago. The Art of Bacalao...... 36 A Café in the Danish Era...... 78 A Weekend in the Westman Islands ...... 128-129 Nature’s Nuances...... 37 Far From Home...... 79 Viking Tours of the Westman Islands...... 130 The Place to Stay in Grindavík...... 38 Gourmet Flair...... 80 Elegant Eating...... 131 Beams, Bottles, Barrels & Beer...... 38 Fjallabyggð...... 82-83 A Knitting Mecca...... 132-133 DAY AIR A Tour to Rave About...... 39 The Ultimate Maritime Experience...... 84 The Chocolate Innovator...... 132-133 TOUR TOUR Hidden Behind the Lava...... 40 Beautiful Akureyri...... 85 Sightseeing the Viking way...... 132-133 Mamma Mia...... 41 A Stay by the Park...... 86 Reykholt’s Hotspot...... 134 Iceland’s Hub...... 42-43 Life on the Edge of the Arctic...... 88 The Oldest Eco-Village...... 136-137 Man, the Sea and Nature...... 44 The Culture House...... 89 Slakki Zoo and Play Centre...... 138-139 A Mecca for Seafood Lovers...... 45 Whale Watching Under Sail...... 90 Geothermal Cycling...... 140 Adrenalin Pumping...... 46 Massive Marine Mammals...... 91 Hoflandsetrið Restaurant...... 141 Romantic and Dreamy...... 48 Tjorneshreppur...... 92 Riverside Restaurant & Spa...... 141 Settling for More...... 49 East Iceland...... 94-95 Finding the Essence of Iceland...... 142 Who’s Pulling the Strings...... 50 The Edge of Imagination...... 96

Credits Cover Photo Icelandic language How to make use of QR codes Splendid Simplicity Ice and Fire – Glaciers and Volcanoes Publisher Articles written by Svartifoss Waterfall Icelandic is one of the European root Interland ehf. Andrew Scott Fortune One of the most popular Höfðatún 12 • 105 Reykjavík Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir languages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’ or sights with its natural basalt Snowmobiling atop Europe’s largest glacier A never-to-be-forgotten trip showing the sharply [email protected] Hrafnhildur Þórhallsdóttir ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except in foreign columns, Svartifoss (Black and a boat trip on the Glacier lagoon. contrasting faces of Iceland’s natural features. Editor and General Manager Kelly Baumann words. However, It still contains some Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Laurence Koster Falls), has inspired archi- letters not found in most other languages. [email protected] Marie Valgardsson tects, notably the design of Róbert Róbertsson This basic list provides a general idea of Sales and Marketing Hallgrímskirja, the church Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir Stefán Helgi Valsson their sounds, using familiar words rather Unnur Hrefna Jóhannsdóttir overlooking Reykjavik and [email protected] than phonetics. Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or Björg Sigurðardóttir Vignir Andri Guðmundsson the National Theatre. Its iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be downloaded free for all makes of smartphones bjö[email protected] Layout sharp, hexagonal columns Character Pronunciation pick up our brochure at your hotel or local tourist Elín Björg Ragnarsdóttir Interland Layout Team of dark lava give it its name. á Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ [email protected] Front cover photo information centre, or visit us at eagleair.is æ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ Icelandic Times Proofreading Svartifoss, South. Iceland It is found in the Skaftafell Andrew Scott Fortune by Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson National Park, South Iceland. ð Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ þ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’ Höfðatún 12 • 105 Reykjavík +354 534 1880 [email protected] Bookingsand information The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though the content of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content. www.icelandictimes.com t. +354 562 4200 e. [email protected] w. eagleair.is Copyright © June, 2011 Interland ehf. All rights reserved Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir at the Reykjavík Airport

2 www.icelandictimes.com which museums are not to be missed, which restaurants have been getting great reviews, current special events and much, much more. Perhaps the most important aspect of this tour, apart from the exercise, of course, is the ample opportunity guests have to ask the local guide questions.

Coast of Reykjavik – 2.5 hrs / 18 km This tour’s main attraction is Reykjavik’s coastline and the often-beautiful evening light along the north, south and west coast of Reykjavik. Highlights include Öskjuhlíð forest, Reykjavik’s geothermal beach, Reykjavik University, Grotta nature reserve and lighthouse.

Golden Circle & Bike – 8 hrs / 25 km This tour includes all the usual stops along the 240 km so-called Golden Circle route, Iceland’s most famous tourist route. Highlights include Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir geothermal area, Þingvellir National Park (Parliament plains) and one or two more places. Participants bicycle about 25 km along some of the most beautiful parts of the Golden Circle, mostly in Þingvellir National Park – the most famous historical place in Iceland. Since 2004, it’s been on the UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites.

Reykjavik Bike Tours – Iceland’s first specialised bicycle tour company Westman Isles & Bike – 9 hrs / 7 km Iceland best enjoyed from a bike saddle This tour includes a guided mini-bus transfer – a 30 minute mini-cruise erman-born Ursula Spitzbart is the with the local ferry and sightseeing by founder of Reykjavik Bike Tours. bicycle on Heimaey Island. This island SheG first came to Iceland ten years ago, is the largest and the only inhabited fell in love with an Icelander and his island in the Westman Isles archipelago country, started a family and wrote a (Vestmannaeyjar). Tour highlights include book in the German language about her the 1973 lava field, botanical garden in the experiences as a German living in Iceland. lava field, a puffin colony, Pompeii of the Ursula worked at the Technical North, and much, much more. There are University of Munich in Germany for only few cars on Heimaey Island, and there several years as a professor’s academic are many places of interest within a short assistant in food technology. She then distance of each other – which makes it an worked for Rotel Tours for four years ideal place to bicycle. as a tour manager for German tourists visiting Scotland. Ursula’s partner, Ursula and Stefán love what they Stefan Helgi Valsson, has been a full- do and receive every visitor with a time tourist guide since 1988, a tourist friendly smile. guide educator and trainer and a college and university lecturer in tourism –sv Reykjavik Bike Tours subjects. Once a prize-winning bicycle racer, Stefan now enjoys admiring Ægisgarður 7 • 101 Reykjavik the sights and scenery and telling scheduled bike tours of Reykjavik and day private bicycle tours for families and groups Classic Reykjavik – 2.5 hrs / 7 km secrets while learning about its history from +354 694 8956 entertaining stories to visitors. tours from the city. Tours are available all as well as four scheduled tours: Classic This tour is a perfect introduction to the a professional and enthusiastic local tourist [email protected] Reykjavik Bike Tours is the first year – depending on the weather in winter, Reykjavik, Coast of Reykjavik, Golden capital city of Iceland. Participants can guide. Participants get to know what the www.icelandbike.com company in Iceland to offer daily of course. This summer, the company offers Circle & Bike and Westman Isles & Bike. expect to see some of the city’s hidden city is all about – in terms of its history, 5 4 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com selection of products is larger and better than ever and that the Viking Souvenir Stores Offer Something to Remember Your Stay By quality of service is among the best in Keep Your Memories Alive the business, as it should be, as we have here are many ways to keep pleasant the whole family working in the shops,” and joyful memories alive and in says Sigurður. ‘TheT Viking’ you’ll find a whole family lineage which has spent close to six decades finding the best for each visitor in Iceland. For some, it is something as little as a key ring, for others, something as practical as a wool sweater and for yet others, something

After taking a look into one of their shops, you’ll see that Sigurður’s boast are not idle words – the stores are literally stuffed with souvenirs and goods. The selection is really too extensive to describe; it ranges from small memorabilia, novelty items, books and clothing, and everything in between.

There are two Viking shops in Reykjavik: at Laugarvegur 1 (look for the giant polar teddy-bears) and Hafnarstræti 1. There are also two shops

informative as a book on Iceland. Whatever in Akureyri: one on Hafnarstræti (look CIN 55453 06.2011

is your favourite way to keeping your visit to for the giant trolls outside) and down by SIA.I S Iceland alive, the family of ‘The Viking’ will the harbour, as well as a small shop in help you find it. the old turf farm in Laufás just outside ÍSLENSK A Sigurður Guðmundsson, manager Akureyri. The Viking franchise has also of ‘The Viking’, is particularly proud recently expanded to Ísafjörður in the of his heritage. “It has been close to Westfjords of Iceland. sixty years since my grandfather started –VAG –asf The Viking the business, which he then handed down to my father and was passed Laugarvegur 1, 101 Reykjavik down to me 12 years ago. I take it as a +354 551 1250 great responsibility to keep the family [email protected] business up to the standards set by my www.theviking.com predecessors. I can safely say that our CINTAMANI BANKASTRÆTI 7 CINTAMANI AUSTURHRAUNI 3 CINTAMANI KRINGLUNNI 101 REYKJAVÍK, Tel. 533 3390 210 GARÐABÆ, Tel. 533 3805 103 REYKJAVÍK, Tel. 533 3003 OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 8-20 MON-FRI 10-18, SAT 11-14 KRINGLAN'S OPENING HOURS CINTAMANI 6 www.icelandictimes.com WWW.CINTAMANI.IS Icelandic woollen sweaters, shawls, hats, vests are to be found alongside Enter the World of the Vikings at Viking loft dresses and unique one-off creations. If Vikingwear, Past and Present you want to stand out at a party or in the ikings were a tough race in the olden workplace yet want to wear something days; their clothing effective and well both comfortable and warm, you will find madeV for the environment they lived in. a number of styles to choose from in Viking Today, the only company that makes loft. Versions of the clothing can be made to Viking clothing in Iceland has opened its order for children of all ages. doors in Reykjavik’s downtown harbour Icelandic wool keeps you comfortable area in the flourishing community built at a constant temperature. The wool has around the bright green old fishermen’s two layers, one soft and so cosy and the huts right on the waterfront. other, rougher and practically waterproof. Together, they provide a material that breathes, yet insulates, totally naturally. The Test our price - Test our service wool is woven by a weaver in the old town of Vík on the south coast. The shawls complement the sweaters - Get more for less beautifully and are available in white, black or stunning purple. A pendant, made from Icelandic pearl - Djupalónsperlu - a unique accessory that completes the ensemble, hangs on a fine leather necklace, enclosed by a delicate fine silver wire cage.

While you are browsing the clothing, why not take time for a special reading from a Völva? Practising a craft handed down from the Viking times, where no-one would consider undertaking any new venture without consulting the seer, Hrafna the Völva has her runes and bones and uses her prophetic gift to help you know more about yourself and your future. A Völva possesses gifts of divination and prophecy and you may well find her gift life-changing. –asf The Viking Loft Not only will you find traditional

Viking dress but the owner, Jenný, has Geirsgata 7A • 101 Reykjavik taken the Viking style and brought it right +354 862 1082 up-to-date with a range of fashionable [email protected] modern styles that are highly regarded in www.hotelshopping.com Reliable All e Way... fashion circles. Smiðjuvegur 34 | 200 Kópavogur 555 3330 | [email protected] | www.hasso.is 8 www.icelandictimes.com depicts the lives of Icelandic fishermen. A popular attraction is the Coast Reykjavik Maritime Museum Explores the Roots of the Icelandic Culture Guard Vessel Óðinn, which is actually On the Waterfront an exhibition itself, allowing you to walk isiting Iceland without exploring onboard the vessel, see how the sailors lived its maritime history would be like and learn something about the Cod Wars. goingV to Greece without learning about Another treat in the museum is the democracy or philosophy - and what better Bryggjan Café, overlooking the entire way to learn about fishing than visiting harbour on a large pier. The café is run by Víkin - the Reykjavik Maritime Museum a woman simply known as Sigga who has down by the old docks amongst the boats been bequeathed secret recipes from her and fishermen. Besides exhibiting Iceland’s grandmother and now makes Reykjavik’s sailing and fishing history, the museum has best pear cakes. “I just try to run the café as a unique café on the waterfront, overlooking I would my own home. We bake everything Reykjavik harbour, where you can enjoy genuine Icelandic pastries while watching the ships roll in – and then watch them sail away again. Amazingly, Reykjavik’s only maritime museum is not that old and has, in a span of a few years completely changed the appearance of the waterfront – from a dilapidated fish processing plant to preserving Iceland’s most important history

here on the spot. We even make our own butter,” says Sigga. Bryggjan indeed has on offer dishes which most Icelanders are familiar with from their grandparents, such as the deep-fried kleinur and pancakes with sugar. The food is even served on antique dishes donated to the museum by fishermen’s wives. But a café in a maritime museum would hardly be complete without any seafood, which Sigga delivers copiously with her unique and scrumptious fish soup. But Bryggjan Café’s ‘ace in the hole’ is surely the splendid view and bustling atmosphere. “We often get old fishermen stopping by for a cup of coffee and the with class. Eiríkur P. Jörundsson, director There are three permanent exhibitions old crews from Óðinn usually come by at of the museum, is particularly proud of the in the museum as well as temporary ones. least once a week before they head out to endeavour. “This is a unique place and an ‘The History of Sailing’ exhibition recounts maintain and clean their old vessel, so in unforgettable experience. Here you can Iceland’s maritime history and the growth that way, it is kind of reminiscent of what really get to the roots of our culture, where of Reykjavik Harbour in a lively fashion. It the old harbour life was like,” says Sigga. sailing and fishing was extremely important. recreates the appearance of the docks from –vag Víkin There is nothing like coming here, where the the early 20th century with all the sights and first settlers of Iceland landed their ships, sounds – it even has real seawater with fish, Grandagarður 8 • 101 Reykjavik Skólavörðustígur 19 • tel .: +354 552 1890 smelling the ocean, seeing numerous relics crabs and starfish crawling around at the +354 517 9400 from the past and experience how this nation bottom. The ‘From Poverty to Abundance’ [email protected] grew from poverty to abundance based on exhibition portrays the Icelandic fisheries at www.sjominjasafn.is Radisson Blu, Hótel Saga • tel.: +354 562 4788 our rich fishing grounds,” says Eiríkur. the turn of the 20th century, and realistically Laugavegur 64 • tel.: +354 562 4788 10 www.icelandictimes.com www.alafoss.is However, the meal is the culmination of that experience. Before AArgentína Gourmet Steakhouse Experience to Remember anything touches your taste buds, your other senses are immersed in the rich leather and celand is a land of secrets, waiting wood, the intimate lighting and atmosphere to be discovered. For those who love of the rustic, Argentinean-style decor, the goodI food, wines and spirits, the only music and the tantalising aromas. Enjoying give-away is a flag hanging above two a drink from the large selection of fine wines gates on a side-street just off Laugavegur’s and spirits stocked at the bar in front of the shopping street. Here, at the end of a dark fire crackling in the hearth, relaxing in the hallway is a large wooden door with an comfortable chairs of one of the lounges, ornate handle that opens into one of the provides the perfect ambiance to the start of most popular and respected restaurants in your evening. Iceland. Popular, that is, with people in Steaks are the hallmark of Argentína’s the know! This hidden epicurean jewel has cuisine. Icelandic beef is untouched by been sought out by visitors from all over drugs, additives or steroids. They have been the world for the past 22 years! genetically unaltered over the 1,000 years since the first settlers. Allowed to grow slowly, they have developed just the right amount of fat necessary for the meat to grill perfectly and the muscles are finer, so the steak is succulent and tender. Icelandic lamb is renowned for its unspoilt, natural growth as they roam unrestrained in the mountain wilderness pastures, also free from additives or hormones, colouring or enhancers – and that shows in its tenderness and taste! Also on the menu is a wide range of carefully selected fresh seafood, shellfish and lobster, to provide a choice for every palate. Char grilled to perfection, the steaks are complemented by the red and white wine selection from all the major countries and regions, or Champagne and sparkling wines, all served by attentive waiters and waitresses. The desert menu complements the main meal with its range of both Icelandic and international choices. There is no incentive to rush out once you have finished your meal. There are plenty of comfortable couches and chairs in which to 1896 relax and enjoy an after-dinner glass of quality cognac, whiskey, port or liqueurs. Argentína is also the most popular venue to buy cigars, though the restaurant is now a smoke-free area. Although the restaurant can seat up to 120 guests, including two banquet rooms that seat up to 16 and 20 guests respectively, Fridays and Saturdays should be booked in advance. It is

open Sunday-Thursday from 6 pm to midnight SJÁALDRIÐ 2011 and on Friday-Saturday from 5:30 pm to 1 am. WARMTH FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY! Argentína Steakhouse won the coveted (The kitchen closes 90 mins. before closing time.) ‘Restaurant of the Year’ award in 2000 with –asf Argentína good reason. You are not just offered a meal, WOOL SWEATERS, LAUGARVEGUR 8, as this is not an ‘eat-and-run restaurant’ but Barónsstígur 11A • 101 Reykjavik an evening’s gourmet experience. No matter +354 551 9555 BLANKETS & ACCESORIES, REYKJAVIK CITY CENTRE what your choice from the menu, you are [email protected] guaranteed a meal to remember for its www.argebtina.is TRADITIONAL CRAFTS & ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23, presentation, flavour, texture and originality. AND SOUVENIRS MOSFELLSBÆR 12 www.icelandictimes.com A Viking’sVikingakráin - The Viking Tavern in theLife Centre of Reykjavik

ikings loved to eat - and eat well. and They were craftsmen, skilled in In her booth in the restaurant, you will they have a reputation of eating and working with their hands. As you walk find Hrafna the Völva - a Viking seer who drinkingV to keep up. through the wooden gates, you find can tell you a lot about yourself. The Vikings Now, you can join them, right in the yourself in the midst of a Viking market of the past would always consult a Völva heart of Reykjavik, close to the harbour where you can see artisans at work and before starting any undertaking. to enjoy the Viking lifestyle, food, drink, purchase their original handiwork. Visiting musicians, actors and storytellers dress and skills. Víkingakráin takes you In the market area, for example, make regular appearances to enthrall back 1,000 years, plunging you into a you can meet Ari and Ágústa from and entertain you. Every day at 8 pm, the world of sheepskin and silversmiths, Níu Heimar (Nine Worlds). Ari is the popular comedy show, ‘Let’s Talk Iceland’, rough wood and candlelight, longships blacksmith, but his talents go much that tells you all you need to know about and Viking dress. further, as his skills with painting the history of Iceland and Icelanders from its Here you can live and breathe Viking and crafts show. Together, they are settlement until present day is performed in traditions, eat the same food cooked in fascinating to talk to, if you have an the restaurant. It is a fun and vibrant play in the same way they are thought to have interest in the roots of the Viking world, English. You will meet Vikings or valkeries cooked and served by Vikings dressed in as they take you into the mists of history from the past and go on an unforgettable the same way their forebears were. and the spirit world. In their workshop journey through the history of Iceland and Drinking is a well-known Viking just a couple of minutes away, you can discuss the strange people living there - the tradition. Upstairs, you can get your find an amazing collection of everything Icelanders. drinks straight from a Viking longship. from driftwood and glass, smoothed by The world of the Vikings is very much At both bars your beer will be drawn the rough seas, shells, herbs, bones and alive today and you will find them, eating, from carved wooden high seat pillars, even twigs that are transformed into drinking, working and generally having fun similar to those the first Viking to settle works of art. in Víkingakráin in Reykjavik. here, Ingólfur Arnarson, threw overboard Did you ever wonder how the Vikings –asf Víkingakráin as he was approaching the country to really dressed? Here is your chance, not find where he should set up home. No only to find out, but to take some home Hafnarstræti 1 • 101 Reykjavik polished hotel tables here, you sit on with you. Craftsmen in the market have +354 551 1717 benches or logs at rough-hewn wooden jewellery of all types, leather bags and [email protected] tables. Smoke from the candles rises many other skillfully-made items that make www. vikingakrain.is through the beams. worthy gifts and treasured mementoes.

14 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 15 Kjartan’s transition from fishmonger to restaurant owner was based The Tale of the Sea Baron more on coincidence than anything else. Sædís’ Silver and Stones Stream from the Waters A Legend Down by the Docks One day, standing by his boxes of fish Jewellery from the Goddess of the Sea true legend and a trailblazer in packed in ice, a group of foreign visitors he old harbour of Reykjavik truly is one immediately evokes images of Iceland’s Reykjavik harbour is the Sea Baron, asked if it were possible for Kjartan to of the city’s most magical places. The most distinct symbol, pure water. Whether aA retired fisherman and Coast Guard chef, prepare the fish for them. Quick to spot an areaT has, in the last few years, been completely it be the silky smoothness of Lake Þingvellir, who came up with the recipe for what has opportunity, Kjartan ran to the nearest shop, revived and the old fishing huts which, not crystal-clear mountain streams or the waves been called the “world’s greatest lobster purchased a grill and cooked the fish right so long ago, faced being demolished now, of the ocean, the texture and mobility of soup.” You’ll find his restaurant, Sægreifinn, there, inviting the visitors to dine inside his thanks to a group of highly innovative and down by the old harbour in Reykjavík in a fish shop – which is where the Sægreifinn creative individuals, brim with life and green-painted, old fisherman’s hut, where restaurant stands today. Word spread and activity, housing various restaurants and you can have your choice of fresh seafood more people asked for his grilled seafood, cafés as well as workshops and studios for barbequed on skewers or see if there is any so Kjartan got rid of the boxes and became artists and designers. Among those who have truth to the bold statement about the lobster a restaurant owner. so vigorously renovated this charming little soup. ‘village’ is a brilliant and immensely talented jewellery designer, Sædís Bauer Halldórsdóttir. Smoking Eel All Night Long In his early days, the Sea Baron, who is better known as Kjartan Halldórsson, was a fisherman who sailed from Reykjavik’s harbour during the 1950’s. Kjartan then decided to take a week-long chefs’ course and hired himself as a chef for the Coast

The Best Possible Materials Here you’ll always find a fresh assortment of the best seafood, the selection depending on the catch of the day. How does Kjartan make sure he has the best ingredients Sædís, whose name translates available? He owns the fish shop across ‘Goddess of the Sea’, indeed from the restaurant, so it’s a problem seems to have a special solved. Shortly after opening the restaurant, relationship with the earth’s Kjartan invented his lobster soup, which has blue gold. So special that, now become world famous for its delicious upon entering her gallery and flavour and taste. Kjartan sadly refuses to workshop after strolling along disclose the secret to his recipe! the harbour, one is struck by the thought that somehow the Aphrodisiac Soup ocean must have flooded into A true pioneer, Kjartan is always coming the store and magically taken up new ideas. One is named Sea-agra Soup. the shape of beautiful pieces of jewellery. water is ever present in Sædís’ creations. Her Sædís is among many designers and Its key ingredient is the Sea Cucumber, Marvelling at the sleek beauty and mirror- respect for nature and strong emphasis on artists who sell their creations on etsy. which according to Chinese folklore, has an like appearance of her design, which ranges quality is evident in all aspects of her work. com, making her design available aphrodisiac effect on those who eat it. There from the most feminine to pieces that can Sædís uses green practices and each piece worldwide at saedis.etsy.com but if you’re is only one way to find out if that is true easily be worn by both men and women, is elaborately handcrafted from recycled in Reykjavik, a visit to her open workshop Guard, where he would prepare meals – drop down to the legendary Sægreifinn materials and fair trade stones making it as and gallery truly is an experience you during their often long tours. Then restaurant at the harbour and enjoy! unique as a raindrop. Among her metals of don’t want to miss. he pioneered marketing smoked eel to –Vag choice is silver, which she uses along with –HÞ Sægreifinn Sædís Goldsmith Icelanders and, to this day, he smokes his blue and clear stones and Icelandic stones own eels down by the docks, the pungent Geirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavik like the lava stone. Sædís will custom-make Geirsgata 5b • 101 Reykjavik smell forcing him to smoke them during +354 553 1500 pieces to meet the wishes of clients using +354 555 6087 the night. Later, Kjartan opened up a fish [email protected] whatever precious metal they request. She [email protected] shop, selling all sorts fresh fish products www.saegreifinn.is also sells quality leather products and art www.saedisbauer.com directly from the dock. pieces by significant Icelandic artists.

16 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 17 Superb volcano and Other items include related nature photographs by some of yarn, which a mother from Northern Volcano House Films Take You into the Fires of Hell the best photographers in Iceland today Iceland makes from her own sheep’s Experience the Force of Nature will be exhibited. The gift shop will have a SjóhatturinnThe Little Shop with a Big Heart Souvenirs wool; ceramic bowls made by disabled pening 7th May, 2011, The Volcano Located across from Reykjavik’s old lovely selection of handcrafted items by top ou will find the essence of Iceland Unique Selection of Bird Memorabilia craftspeople; hand-made Icelandic Santa House will offer visitors a lively and harbour, two excellent 40-minute films Icelandic designers and artists, whose work in the Sjóhatturinn (The Sea-Hat) Sjóhatturinn offers a wide selection of bird Claus and trolls; jewellery made from entertainingO look at the geology of Iceland. will be shown every hour, on the hour, in is related to Iceland’s volcanoes and nature. souvenirY shop. This family-run business memorabilia – especially the colourful lava rocks, fish skin products, books, Behind the concept are three brothers, actively scours the country in search of puffin. They have their own taxidermist Icelandic cosmetic and health Svavar, Þórir and Hörður - all of whom innovative and interesting crafts and who supplies them with stuffed puffins products and, of course, sea hats. were looking for a change of direction in souvenirs straight from the source. you can take home. Garðar and Brynja are Animal collectors should enquire their careers. When the idea of opening The Husband and wife, Garðar and more than happy to reserve one and send about the sperm whale teeth. Volcano House presented itself, they leapt Brynja, opened the store just three years it to you. They also search for quality at the opportunity. ago in the same old fisherman’s hut bird wood carvings and offer a selection Have it Sent Home where Garðar used to bait lines. The that is hard to find elsewhere. You don’t have to carry your hut’s original character and feel have souvenirs. You can ask Brynja been preserved and old fishermen who and Garðar to send them worked there frequently gather in the to your home. If you forgot shop’s lounge, overlooking the harbour something, just send an e-mail to exchange tales from the sea. and they will ship it to you. “People have been extremely

Down to the Grassroots Garðar and Brynja’s ambition is to offer as wide a selection of interesting crafts and souvenirs as possible. “We leave no stone unturned in our search. We stop the in-house cinema, which seats up to 50 at every single farm and craft house to guests. The films cover two of Iceland’s see what the people are doing. We talk 20th century eruptions - the 1973 eruption to old fishermen and whalers, farmers, in the Westman Islands and the most recent painters, potters, knitters - everyone who 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull. Digital prints of the exhibited photographs is creating something which captures the A brief synopsis of Iceland’s geological will also be available in the gift shop. essence of Iceland. We get right down history and volcanic system in English, In The Volcano House café, guests can to the grassroots and thus our products grateful for our services and wide German and Icelandic will be displayed enjoy excellent coffee, light refreshments are as authentic as possible. We want to selection. In fact, many have expressed together with hands-on exhibits of lava and a selection of wines and spirits. be able to tell our customers where they their regrets of not finding us until the rock and ash, making The Volcano House come from, who made them and how,” end of their trip when their funds were a kind of ‘learning oasis’ for those on a Welcome to the Volcano House! says Brynja. depleted,” says Brynja, so be sure to visit quest for knowledge. All wool sweaters in Sjóhatturinn are Sjóhatturinn early during your stay. “We hope to eventually include an –emv knitted in Iceland and each comes with a –vag Volcano House Sjóhatturinn earthquake simulator,” says Þórir, “where special label identifying who knitted it,

guests will be able to experience the feeling Tryggvagata 11 • 101 Reykjavik so you know you’re buying an authentic Geirsgata 3 • 101 Reykjavik of earthquakes of different magnitudes on +354 555 1900 Icelandic wool sweater. Sjóhatturinn +354 552 7777 the Richter scale, bringing home the reality [email protected] also offers affordable, quality outdoor [email protected] and impact of any of the earthquakes that www.volcanohouse.is clothing from Icewear to keep you warm www.sjohatturinn.is have rocked the world in recent months”. both here and at home.

18 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 19 Sitting on the patio on Cinema No. 2 has a wide a warm summer day, enjoying a delicious selection of film screenings from noon to Sushismiðjan-Midori, a Top Class Restaurant at the Old Harbour sushi and the view over the harbour to Unique Visual Experiences of Iceland’s Geological History the evening, ranging from just over twenty Harbourside Sushi Mount Esja across the bay, this is the life! See Iceland with Fresh Eyes minutes up to two-hour showings. Bryndís n one of the bright green For freshness, the harbour is the place to uch has been written about Iceland’s Bryndís says that visitors, and even says the schedule is designed to suit everyone, buildings down at the old be. The combination of Icelandic fish and splendid landscapes in trying to Icelanders themselves, often don’t get the full from people who want to take a breather from harbourI is Sushismiðjan, a bright sushi cannot be beaten for quality and captureM the essence of the country, but fewer Iceland experience simply because they don’t a busy day of excursions, whale-watchers and busy sushi restaurant. flavour - and its presentation is top class. have tried to actually explain how Iceland came know its history. “For example, some people looking for things to do, those wanting a lunch Serving a range of tasty sushi The menu offers Makis, Nigiris and to be the way it is. Thus many visitors casually don’t realise that Iceland is positioned on the break, pre-dinner entertainment or a cosy way dishes with sake, wine or beer, Sashimis, along with a mixed vegetable pass by Iceland’s staple attractions without ever this is a very popular eating and sushi and different children’s dishes. realising the complexity of their origin and meeting place. Japanese noodles with chicken, vegetables being. In the rustic loft of a fisherman’s hut or Tiger prawns, fish or miso soup, down by Reykjavik’s old harbour, you can now seafood or beef salad round out the main glimpse into the origin of Iceland at Cinema courses. For desert, there is chocolate No. 2’s unique movie theatre. cake with cream, ice cream and fresh The company specialises in nature berry smoothies. cinematography and offers a wide selection of The restaurant is open from 11:30 am to films which focus more on the experience of 11 pm. Take-away meals can be ordered the topic rather than simply showing it. The by phone or on the web. They cater for companies, parties and lunches, too.

– Sushismiðjan asf

Geirsgötu 3 • 101 Reykjavik +354 517 3366 [email protected] www.sushismidjan.is

ShopHotelshopping.com from gives a new way Yourto shop in comfort Hotel Room © Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson omething special, different. Jewellery You’re taking a stroll in the lovely evening filmmaker has been filming Icelandic nature from a volcano; organic creams from sun, thinking about dinner. HotelShopping. since 1970’s and has amassed enormous Spure Icelandic nature; fashionable, uniquely com’s store is right downtown on amounts of extraordinary footage. Icelandic design clothing. You need to shop. Bankastræti 2 by the Lækjabrekka One of their most popular films is called It’s raining and you’re leaving tomorrow. restaurant with the Tourist ‘Eruption’. It focuses on the powerful Or you’re at a conference and have little free Information and Icelandic Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010. Bryndís time. You’ve just unpacked and find, to your Travel Market. Here you can Kristjánsdóttir, manager at Cinema No. 2, dismay, you forgot your adaptor or camera try the items you’re interested says their guests are continually amazed by the memory card. There are no shops selling in and get an immediate force of the eruption as seen in the film and them downtown. No problem: those and tax refund on anything you often want to know more about the volcanic all kinds of electronic equipment are in the purchase. Whether buying online, by activity in Iceland. As a result, Cinema No. 2 Mid-Atlantic Ridge, spanning the North- to spend the evening. In fact, Cinema No.2 catalogue and can be in your hands phone or in person, the prices are the now presents their latest film, ‘The Birth of an American and European tectonic plates, as was recently selected as one of the top 10 in hours. Your holiday is not same as regular store prices. Island’, which shows you exactly that – how well as being on top of a so-called ‘hot spot’, places to go after hours in Reykjavik by the spoilt. Did you just arrive home and realise Iceland came to be the way it is. resulting in the extremely variable volcanic popular tourist website, www.TripAdvisor.com. There, in your hotel you didn’t get that special gift? A activity found in Iceland. But the volcanoes are German speakers are advised to check out the room, is a catalogue filled quick visit to the website and it’s on not the only things which shape the country. daily screenings at 18:30 in German. with all these interesting its way and your embarrassment is The movie explores how climate changes, – items and much more. A saved. asf glaciers, rivers and the ocean slowly, slowly –vag Hotel Shopping Images by © Haukur Snorrason & Valdimar leifsson Cinema No. 2 simple phone call or visit form the splendid landscapes we see here to the website and they’re HotelShopping.com is an Bankastræti 2 • 101 Reykjavik today. As with our other films, we wanted to Geirsgata 7b • 101 Reykjavik in your hands - with a tax innovative, fun new way to +354 445 6600 focus on giving a visual experience and limit +354 898 6628 refund form, delivered at no shop. Give it a try! [email protected] the amount of explanation as much as possible, [email protected] extra charge anywhere in the www.hotelshopping.com focusing instead on atmosphere and visual www.lifsmynd.is capital area or Keflavik airport. presentation,” says Bryndís.

20 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 21 using something called EGF, or epidermal growth factors. EGF Serum is the first EffectiveSif Cosmetics Serum Changes and Skin Care Pure Forever skincare product on the market to Whales,Elding - Pioneers of Reykjavik’s Dolphins, Whale Watching Puffins Phenomenon and Fish ased on the latest advances in molecular which is making waves in the contain cellular activators produced lding Whale Watching, founded the experience memorable is the quality of Sustainable Operation biology and medical research, the world of cosmetics. With only in barley plants, grown in state-of- in 1998, pioneered whale watching service. Elding’s boats are purpose-designed Elding is the only whale watching operator IcelandicB biotechnology company Sif 9 ingredients on its label, the the-art geothermal greenhouse on tripsE from Reykjavik. Whale watching was and the crews are both experienced and in Reykjavik that contributes to and Cosmetics has recently launched a brand serum works by stimulating the Reykjanes Peninsula, west of uncharted territory but word of their success friendly. Having live commentary from participates in marine research. This is new product in skin care: EGF Serum, the skin´s own renewal process, Reykjavik. in consistently finding whales and dolphins naturalist guides, expertise and friendly seen as an important contribution to its got around, making the trips very popular. explanations also gives the trip extra value. sustainability policy and a good way to My own conclusion? Having They have five boats, all of which are fully used only a few drops of the product used, as the idea of whale watching has every night for two weeks, my captured the hearts of people everywhere. complexion has evened out, is hydrated and smoother, as many other women Whales and Puffins have found to be true. Elding offers all year round whale watching with numerous superb tours daily during the Amazingly, some have even cancelled summer. Whale watching in the beautiful their botox injections in favour of the evening light, as the sun sets close to serum, and THAT is very good news! midnight, has become very popular.

Puffin Islands – Sif Cosmetics EMV During the summer months’ breeding season, when thousands of puffins nest on Lundey

Víkurhvarf 3 • 203 Kópavogur or Akurey, two islands near Reykjavik, each +354 531 1000 whale watching trip visits one of them (which, [email protected] depends on the tides). The boats get in very sifcosmetics.is close without disturbing the birds, providing fantastic photo opportunities. Around these islands, other birds like eider ducks, black guillemots, gannets and cormorants can also regularly be seen. understand the environment they are Puffin ’n Fishing dependent on. Two research projects, Daily, in summer, there are two additional cataloguing and behaviour–monitoring hour-long trips just to see the puffins and of the whales are run on the Elding boats. one 3-hour trip which includes fishing. Since 2007, over 300 whales have been listed The fish you catch is barbecued on board. and photographed and important data on You can’t get a fresher meal than that! them gathered on their behaviour. Eco-friendly operation The Key Differences From the outset, Elding set the bar high on ‘Dive’ with the Whales Elding is the only whale watching operator standards of professionalism in each area. An older ship has been converted into a that offers tours all year round. Many take Every year since 2006, it has received the Whale Watching Centre, whose centrepiece boats out into the Atlantic–but what makes Green Globe/Earth Check certification, is the skeleton of a minke whale. Downstairs whose audit requires an annual improvement is a walk-through presentation which should in their environmental impact. not be missed. Films shot underwater take you into the whales’ world. With a shop and café to relax in and seating both up on “Elding is far and away the best Whale- deck, with a beautiful view of the harbour Watch operator in Reykjavik. Outstanding and inside, this is worth a visit in itself. It is naturalist guides, very friendly and open daily from 8 am to 5 pm. professional staff, comfortable and stable boats and Marine Biologists working on –asf Elding board…Brilliant!”

Ægisgarður 7 • 101 Reykjavik —Mark Carwardine, BBC TV presenter +354 555 3565 and one of the world’s foremost whale [email protected] and dolphin experts. www.elding.is

22 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 23 orders and members to three different courses on create a harmonious cottage industry. the menu – noodle soup with beef, noodle The Handknitting Association’s Yarn This pioneering standardisation, quality Simple, fast and delicious Thai food at affordable prices soup with chicken and noodle soup with Close-knit inspection, and guidance for projects has Noodle Station Reykjavik vegetables. The noodles are made with ou line up with dozens of other Before 1977 this depressing scene was grown the Handknitting Association from oung Thai entrepreneur Charin rice and no flour is used in the process. women to stand before a fickle commonplace. Knitting orders were a small group to around 200 knitters. Thaiprasert is the proud owner of Customers can expect delicious food and shopY owner who will take only a minute advertised on the only radio station Not just anyone can knit an Icelandic theY Noodle Station restaurant. Charin’s fast service at an affordable price. to judge months of work. After hours of in Iceland with little consideration for sweater, which takes a full two to three recipe for his restaurant’s success has been waiting, you finally stand before him and the people filling the order. From this days to complete. The pattern itself is as in his family for generations. There are complicated as the Icelandic name for it, lopapoysa. Although most members of the Handknitting Association are older Icelandic women who want to occupy themselves well into retirement, the financial crisis has ushered in a younger generation of knitting professionals to The Noodle Station is exceptionally easy carry on the tradition. The Handknitting to find. It is at Skólavörðustígur 21a – on the Association coordinates old and new left-hand side of the street, about half way up. members to clothe clientele in apparel This is the street that leads from Reykjavik’s entirely made in Iceland by professional city centre up to the 74.5 metre concrete, knitters whose work has standardized sizes space-shuttle look-alike, Hallgrímskirkja and undergoes rigorous quality inspection. memorial church on Skólavörðuholt hill. –kb –SV Icelandic Handknitting Assn. Noodle Station his shrewd eye skims over your sweaters. chaos emerged Iceland’s Handknitting

He shakes his head and your heart sinks. Association, a small group of women who Skólavörðustígur 19 • 101 Reykjavik Skólavörðustígur 21a • 101 Reykjavik You hang your head in dejection and wanted to take charge of their own work +354 552 1890 +354 551 3199 trudge home with your rejected sweaters rather than rely on the whim of shop [email protected] [email protected] in tow; months of work and part of your owners. These women wanted to sell their www.handknit.is family income is lost in that moment. handiwork on fair terms by coordinating

year with drawings by award winning artist, Jón Baldur Hlíðberg. You can keep up with what’s going ASnerra New Publishing Memory introduces the 2012 Each selection Month on in Iceland as the official Icelandic nce you’ve returned home from holidays are marked on the your trip to Iceland, you’ll calendars - so you’ll know when to undoubtedlyO want to have celebrate Iceland’s Independence something to remember it by. Day and when to start eating Having a new picture from putrefied shark and soured Iceland on your wall every liver sausages. month is surely one of the better ways to do it. Snerra publishing company is now presenting a new selection of calendars for the year 2012 – a souvenir which is not only nice to look at but also practical and informative. The 2012 selection is especially extensive, with ‘The Icelandic Calendar’, which includes pictures of the landscape, towns and people of Iceland in all four seasons; ‘This is Iceland’ offering glimpses of the Icelandic way of life; ‘Experience –vag Snerra Publishing Iceland’ focussing on the powerful forces of nature at work in Iceland; ‘The Skútuvogur 10f • 104 Reykjavik Panoramic Desk Calendar’; ‘The Icelandic +354 567 3350 Horse Calendar and the ever popular Puffin [email protected] Calendar. The Nature Calendar is new this www.snerra.is

24 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 25 the Kerlingarfjöll area, of Hotel Holt’s original which has been overlooked by many, but is owner Þorvaldur, who opened the hotel Sterna offers a liberating alternative in touring the country a unique area. This summer, we are offering Dining with Kjarval at Gallery Restaurant and restaurant in 1965. Þorvaldur even paid A Passport around Iceland short tours in the mountainous area and the Sketching for Supper Kjarval for his work by providing him with here are many ways to explore this show your passport and you’re on your first ‘Day-Tour’ (as opposed to scheduled rt is a lifestyle, not a profession. food for sketches he drew. Kjarval often island nation but many have yet to way. “It has proven to be very liberating tours), which takes you to the volcanic Jóhannes Kjarval was painfully aware sketched at The Gallery restaurant which is realizeT how convenient the public transport for our customers to have the freedom and islands of Vestmannaeyjar, including a pick ofA this fact for years while he struggled dedicated to the works that he produced for system is. Drengur Óla, Marketing Manager flexibility to tour the country at their own up at your hotel. Another innovation is that to obtain his basic needs by paying with his patron. of Sterna Tour Company, says that there discretion, whether we’re talking about the tours around the Snæfellsnes peninsula paintings and sketches, scattering his life’s are many advantages to using public families, groups or lone travellers. We’ve will have local guides, offering detailed and work throughout the city of Reykjavik. transportation in Iceland, including fair often seen a certain community among the entertaining commentary of the area. The Tucked away on an unassuming side street, prices and the regularity of the trips. travellers and some of our customers who most popular routes around the South of sheltered from the hectic downtown is Hotel “First and foremost, we offer public step on the bus as individuals, leave with a Iceland also include stewardesses to help Holt’s Gallery Restaurant, home to several transportation, which means that our buses group,” says Drengur. facilitate the whole experience.” works by Kjarval.

Heavy draperies and frosted glass shelter guests from prying eyes, while attentive wait staff assist travellers. The meal starts light with a small taste of soup to excite the The Gallery Restaurant welcomes guests palette and move on to a delicate appetiser as it once welcomed Kjarval. Though a first like foie gras braised in tart fruit sauce. The class restaurant, it is not limited, with a entrée follows with a heavier dish, Icelandic three course lunch for 3,500 kr. and two-for- lamb marinated with herbs and spices. one drinks at Happy Hour or light fare such A rich dessert polishes the meal off with as mini burgers. Guests can try the three chocolate cake or skyr and berry tarts. course dinner menu at 5,900 kr. Whether Throughout dinner, guests can admire dining or simply stopping by for a drink, the idyllic scenes of Icelandic landscapes and staff encourages guests to walk through all always depart at given times Drengur says that Sterna places special people livening up the dark wood panelling. the rooms of the restaurant and hotel to view and no matter how many or few emphasis on safety and that all their buses Indulging in art and food was a passion their extensive collection of artwork. passengers, you never have to come equipped with seatbelts and meet all For those with an interest in wine, the worry about how or when you’re the required standards and more. “Another restaurant offers a cellar with 4,000 bottles getting to your next destination. plus of utilizing the public transport system and a waiter to act as a personal guide In fact, in all my years working is that you can be sure that the driver knows through the selection. There is a bottle of for this company, we have never the route like the back of his hand and is wine for every taste and price range. The left a passenger behind, and we experienced in dealing with the needs of Gallery Restaurant stays true to its original don’t intend to start now,” says the travellers, including accommodating intent as a luxury dining experience, open to Drengur. There are six different passports available, families with children and those with everyone, with its focus on the possibilities Sterna has adjusted their route network including the full circle around Iceland on special needs.” for guests in any price range. to give easy access to all the locations of highway no. 1, a tour to the West Fjörds –vag –KB Sterna Gallery Restaurant interest to a curious traveller. Increasingly and the Golden Circle. An increasingly popular are The Bus Passports, enabling popular alternative to the circle around BSÍ • Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 • 101 Reykjavik Bergstaðastræti 37 • 101 Reykjavik you to jump on and off scheduled trips Iceland is the East Circle via Kjölur, taking +354 551 1166 +354 552 5700 at your own convenience and to travel to you straight across the barren highlands of [email protected] [email protected] specific areas of Iceland without ever having Iceland. “The Kjölur route also offers you www.sterna.is www.holt.is to worry about booking the bus. You just a chance to experience the hidden oasis of

26 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 27 Food for Thought But Solla says that perhaps the greatest encouragement she’s gotten came from a couple who had been having difficulties due the husband’s depression and general lack of health. “After only two months of eating raw food the wife came to me and told me they’d found happiness again and it was as if she’d gotten a new husband. That just goes to show that food doesn’t just affect you physically, also mentally,” says Solla. Raw food cooking may sound rather limited to those who’ve never tried it, but Solla has found ways of making many of your favourite dishes without ever having to boil or cook out their nutrients. “To tell you the truth I am very fussy about what I eat and I didn’t want to spend my life eating something I didn’t like, just because it was good for me – I wanted it to taste good as well! And as there were really no outside options for this sort of food when I started I simply had to do it on my own,” says Solla.

Getting the Most from Your Food Solla says raw food cooking is all about getting the most from the food you eat and using food which helps your body to stay healthy. “Some people may have some prejudice against raw foodism, but the fact of the matter is that it has been researched by scientists which show its effectiveness. Raw or living foods have natural enzymes, which are critical in building proteins and rebuilding StaySolla, at Gló Healthy Restaurant, is one ofin the world’sIceland top raw food chefs the body, but by cooking the food excessively ince The Settlement, Iceland‘s culinary Decades of Experience we lose these enzymes and the body has a traditions have mostly been characterised The restaurant’s success is a result of its harder time processing the food we eat. Sby the available methods of preservation owner’s tireless effort to introduce healthy But as with everything else in life there is rather than taste and nourishment – that eating to Iceland and its visitors. Sólveig, a certain leeway to everything, which is why is up until now. In recent years, vegetarian, or Solla as she is most commonly known we offer both pasta and chicken dishes as well raw and generally healthy food has been as, has been involved in the health food as raw food meals. Right now we’re serving increasing in both popularity and quality industry for close to thirty years and during around 75% raw food dishes and the rest is of in Iceland. A major catalyst in that process that time has amassed copious amounts of course extremely healthy as well,” says Solla. is a woman named Sólveig Eiríksdóttir, one knowledge and experience on the matter. –vag of the world’s top raw-food chefs and owner She is a sought after lecturer on the topic of the ever-popular Gló restaurant, opposite and a continual presence on lists of the best the Nordica Hotel. raw food chefs in the world. Gló restaurant offers a wide selection Solla had previously run extremely of raw food dishes, as well as vegetarian popular vegetarian restaurants in Reykjavík, and other healthy foods, all of which but when Solla was introduced to the world are renowned for both their taste and of raw food in the mid 90’s she hasn’t looked nutritional value. Come by at lunch back. “I’m extremely grateful for having hour any day of the week and you’ll find gotten to know raw-food as soon as I did, as Gló Restaurant the place packed with health fanatics & it is the best thing that has ever happened to athletes; hippies & hipsters; politicians & me. It has helped my body to age gracefully, Engjateigur 19 · 105 Reykjavik programmers – all of which line up daily stay free of pests and illnesses, and given +354 553 1111 to try Gló’s raw food pizza’s, raw food me the energy to match the energy of my [email protected] lasagne, their unique salads and whatever employees, most of which are much younger www.glo.is dishes Gló offers each day. than me,” says Solla.

28 www.icelandictimes.com 29 providing affordable meals Grænn Kostur’s Course which are not cheap when it comes to taste. of the Day is a particularly popular choice. Maður Lifandi Makes Healthy Living Easier “A lot of people seem to think health food OldestVegetarian Meals Vegetarian So Good Even Non-Vegetarians Restaurant Love Them Along with the splendid course are various Carefree Shopping and Dining is flavourless and dull which could not be salads, breads, rice, and some juicy and hanging to and maintaining a healthy about chemical additives, fillers or other further from the truth in our case. We’ve ue to an often-unforgiving climate, restaurant scene as is made evident by the flavourful sauces, which is more than enough lifestyle may appear a daunting task unwanted ingredients like white sugar and got a team of chefs who are experts in using Iceland does not have a particularly long queues that form every Thursday, to satisfy an empty stomach. Jóhanna says withC some of the reasons being: not knowing wheat. We’ve studied the list of ingredients fresh natural and organic ingredients to longD history of vegetarian and organic with customers waiting for Grænn they’re also quite proud of their cake and how to eat healthy, not knowing where to for you and only sell products that meet make delicious and savoury meals,” says lifestyles. Cultivating vegetables and fruits in Kostur’s famous spinach and vegetarian cookie selection which is, of course, also as find healthy food and thinking that healthy our standards. Furthermore, our staff is Arndís. Each day, Maður Lifandi offers both such unfavourable conditions is a challenge lasagne. “We’re constantly disproving organic and wholesome as possible, completely food is rather dull and flavourless. Maður highly informed in organic and even the greenest fingers will have Lifandi supermarket and restaurant chain health products, and should problems overcoming. But thanks makes it their goal to make that easy for you be able to provide you with to new technologies, a warmer by providing a unique selection of organic the information and help you climate, modern transportation and natural groceries, and gourmet meals need,” says Arndís. The product and some hard work, Iceland has become a vegetarian and health food heaven, and a leading pioneer in that trend is Iceland’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, Grænn Kostur.

a vegetarian and non- vegetarian special, the image many people seem to have of void of white sugar and wheat, as well as some soup and bread, vegetarian eating; that it is a single leaf of raw food cake alternatives that are a big hit. as well as the ever cabbage with a glass of water. When you “Our customers, who come from all walks popular salad bar get a meal at Grænn Kostur, you really of life, come again and again, whether they’re that are nutritious and healthy, while being selection is like at any other along with a selection Jóhanna Jónasdóttir, service manager, get a meal. It has therefore been a pleasant looking for a quick bite to go, a lively lunch or both satisfying and affordable. medium-sized supermarket, of cold dishes, says that Grænn Kostur (Green Choice) experience to see that a large proportion of just reading the paper over a cup of coffee When you step into Maður Lifandi you‘re which comes as no surprise, as either to dine-in has accomplished a lot since its inception our customers aren’t even vegetarians; they and a wholesome cake,” says Jóhanna. greeted with a pleasant cooking aroma and Maður Lifandi strives to provide or as a take-away. but their mission of ‘better health through simply like a tasty and healthy alternative,” –vag a selection of tasty organic groceries, some a one-stop location for the health Arndís says that the good food’ is still going strong. “Our says Jóhanna. you probably didn‘t even know existed. conscious consumer. You’ll find organic smoothie and juice bar is constantly growing goal is simple: We want our food to be Arndís Thorarensen, manager of Maður fruits, vegetables, breads and pastry, dry in popularity. There, customers can have their as natural and as full of life as possible Lifandi, says their aim is to provide goods, dairy products and juices, choice of healthy and nutritious drinks, the – the closer to its origin the better. what they call ‘carefree books, supplements and natural most popular one being ‘The Green Thunder’. That is why we make everything shopping.’ “When you’re remedies, to name a few. Maður Lifandi has three locations in the from scratch from as shopping at our Likewise, Maður Reykjavík area: one in Borgartún 24, one wholesome, natural and stores, you don’t Lifandi’s restaurants in Hæðarsmári 6 in Kópavogur, and one organic ingredients have to put the emphasis in Hafnarborg - The Hafnarfjörður Centre as possible. Our worry on healthy of Culture and Fine Art - which should c u s t o m e r s eating, make for a nice outing; enjoying delicious really seem to healthy food and admiring works of art by appreciate leading Icelandic and international artists. that,” says –vag Jóhanna. Maður lifandi Grænn kostur G r æ n n

Borgartún 24 • 105 Reykjavik Kostur has Skólavörðustíg 8 • 101 Reykjavik +354 585 8700 long since +354 552 2028 [email protected] become a [email protected] www.madurlifandi.is s t a p l e i n www.graennkostur.is Reykjavik’s

30 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 31 Clothing stores include Benetton, Zara, Debenhams, Herragarðurinn (Hugo Boss, Sand and more), Body Shop, Oasis, Karen Millen, Levi’s, Topshop, Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Bianco, Vero Moda, Jack & Jones, Vila, Exit, Selected, Joe Boxer, Dressman and more.

Restaurants include TGI Friday’s, Pizza Hut, Café Energia, Café Adesso, Serrano, Subway, Hlöllabátar among others.

Other stores include Carat, Jón og Óskar, Meba and Leonard goldsmiths, Dogma, Drangey, Optical Studio, 66° North, Líf og list (Kop og kande), DÚKA, Eymundsson bookstore, Útilíf, Intersport and more.

Scan this QR code to get the Smáralind application. Available for Android phones and iPhones ShopShopping and Entertainment and Combined in Iceland’s Enjoy biggest shopping mall

lthough Iceland’s main attractions amusement park of sorts – a completely you can find in London, Paris and New that enables you to get the information you are its landscapes and scenery, the new family entertainment centre, where York,” says Guðrún. need wherever you want, whenever you countryA is actually an excellent choice you’ll find world class entertainment She says that Smáralind strives to offer a want. The application will make special for some quality shopping as well. In and activities for the entire family,” says comfortable, yet lively atmosphere, making offers available to you and you can even the biggest shopping mall in Iceland, Guðrún. In addition, Smáralind offers shopping there an experience in itself. “It get better deals by sharing them with your Smáralind, you’ll find under one roof strollers free-of-charge and quality child is a place where lively people and shoppers friends. For the app, click the code above everything from high-end clothing to care while you do your shopping. can easily spend the day with pauses at and for more information, visit the website outdoor & sporting equipment; informative With over 80 shops and businesses on the many coffee places and restaurants in shown below. books and magazines in English and other three floors, you’ll surely be able to find addition to one of the best movie theatres Smáralind is located in Kópavogur, languages to a movie theatre; and from something which suits your taste. “We in Reykjavik. It is, in fact, the policy of only a 10 minute drive from downtown a wide selection of quality restaurants to pride ourselves with the wide range of stores Smáralind to combine shopping and Reykjavik and easily accessible by public a complete family entertainment centre and services we offer. Many of the stores entertainment,“ says Guðrún and notes transportation as well. opening this autumn. here are exclusive to this mall in Iceland. that the list of events will be especially –vag Smáralind “Smáralind will be celebrating its Most of them are shops with Icelandic lively on this anniversary year, so keep

10th anniversary this year and is more products as well as foreign; clothes stores, posted. Hagasmára 1 • 201 Kópavogur vibrant than ever,” says Guðrún Margrét Icelandic art and design, bookstores that On that note, Smáralind is now +354 528 8000 Örnólfsdóttir, Marketing Manager at sell Icelandic literature in foreign languages embracing new technologies and is [email protected] www.smaralind.is Smáralind. “Right now we’re transforming and interesting books for travellers. You’ll First floor second floor introducing a new mobile application our lovely hall, Vetrargarðurinn, into an also find many cosmopolitan shops which available for Android phones and iPhones

32 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 33 Laugar, giving you access As the name implies, to such diverse activities as whale watching, it is the grill that is Gústav’s favourite Fosshótel: Connecting the Ring around Iceland the geological phenomena of Ásbyrgi and the A Breath of Fresh Air at Sjávargrillið method of cooking and it should come as Self-Driving Made Easy magnificent Dettifoss waterfall. Fosshótel, Dine with the Chef of the Year no surprise that the Grill Feast Menus, he thought of booking accommodation of course, provide accommodation close to he Icelandic restaurant scene is quite When deciding on the new menu and with fish, meat or lobster, are already for an entire road trip can be a daunting Vatnajökull in the East of Iceland. Fosshótel the competitive business, so it may theme for Sjávargrillið, Gústav scoured becoming the most popular dishes. The task,T as the number of options and variables Mosfell gives you easy access to many of comeT as a surprise to some to hear about the country for inspiration, looking for feasts are served on grills which Gústav is sometimes seemingly endless. Fosshótel has Southern Iceland’s greatest attractions, a chef in his 20’s opening a new restaurant the taste and essence of Iceland. As a had specially made for the restaurant come up with a convenient option for those including a hike to Mt. Hekla and the secluded in downtown Reykjavik. Sjávargrillið, driving around Iceland: the ‘On the Road’ Þórsmörk area. on Skólavörðustígur, is the brainchild of package, which enables you to travel to all The hotels are not exclusive to those Gústav Axel Gunnlaugsson, who received of Iceland’s greatest attractions while always using the self-drive package and provide the top honour of being named the having a comfortable place to stay nearby. a cosy and friendly option for the weary Icelandic Chef of the Year in 2010, the Fosshótel handles all your hotel accommod- traveller. Fosshotel’s motto is ‘Friendly youngest ever to do so, at the age of 23. ation and provides you with a detailed travel Despite his young age, Gústav, has itinerary to help you on your way. Their cooked for many of the most esteemed hotels are each located by the main road and seafood restaurants in Iceland and in close to many of Iceland’s main attractions, London. In fact, when you read this, he will eliminating long and tedious drives to your recently have competed for the honour of being the Nordic Chef of the Year in 2011. Gústav has now decided to use his experience, education and his undisputed talent in his own brand new restaurant, named Sjávargrillið, or the Sea Grill.

night’s lodging. Fosshótel has two conveniently located hotels in Reykjavik to start your trip. In Reykholt, in the west of Iceland, you’ll find a culturally-themed hotel connecting you to the rich history of the area and the wonders of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. There are three hotels and offer a three-meal overview of in the North of Iceland: Dalvík, Húsavík and Gústav’s talents. During lunch hour, Sjávargrillið offers all around Iceland,’ and their three main the ‘Fish of the Day’ course, which is goals are to provide a good night’s sleep, selected each day from the finest fish the healthy breakfast and making their visitors day’s catch can offer. comfortable, so you can be sure of a warm Sjávargrillið is located on the lively welcome. Most of their hotels have quality Skólavörðustígur, running down from restaurants which emphasise the local the cathedral and on sunny days, it is the cuisine and many of the staff are, in fact, optimal location to enjoy a light seafood locals who are more than happy to give you It should come as no surprise that Gústav is result you’ll see the cosy interiors made dish or coffee outside, while gazing at the advice and information for your travels. most comfortable working with fresh products from driftwood collected from Icelandic bustling street life of Reykjavik. –vag from the sea, as he was born and raised in the shores and some innovative use of scrap –vag Fosshótel Sjávargrillið small seaside town of Húsavík in the north iron from abandoned fish processing

Sigtún 38 · 105 Reykjavík of Iceland. “The brilliance of working with plants. For the menu, Gústav utilises as Skólavörðustígur 14 • 101 Reykjavík 354 562 4000 seafood here in Iceland is that we really have many of the Icelandic seasonal products as +354 571 1100 [email protected] the best and freshest materials available. We are available, including various wild and [email protected] www.fosshotel.is literally get the fish directly from the fishermen tasty plants which can survive the harsh www.sjavargrillid.is themselves,” he says. arctic climate.

34 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 35 As one of Iceland’s oldest the exposed lava rock wall and leading tour companies, Íshestar puts integrated into its layout. A towering glass Íshestar’s Riding Tours into Nature great emphasis on its personal service, quality Blue Lagoon Bliss staircase brings guests to a second floor bar The Spirit of Iceland tours and safety, while providing a wide variety Nature’s Nuances where you can indulge in a drink before t can be said that the true spirit of a country The Icelandic horse was part and parcel of year-round riding tours for all skill levels. odies lie weightlessly suspended, A swim-up bar delivers specialised skin dinner. Though the Lava Restaurant & Bar is reflected in the nature of its native of Iceland 1,000 years ago and continues enveloped in mineral rich, milky blue masks, nourishing algae masks, exfoliating has won several architectural awards, its animals.I The spirit of Iceland can therefore to be an important part of Iceland today. Join one of Íshestar’s most popular tours waters.B Faces, covered with white silica masks, volcanic scrubs, or luscious cocktails for design does not outdo the restaurant’s menu be found in its own cherished friend and So your trip to Iceland will hardly be The Lava Tour is an excellent ride for beginners wade slowly through shallow water. Pitted those who wish to imbibe. Guests who have which runs the gamut from light dishes to companion, the Icelandic horse. Independent complete without experiencing a riding wanting to get a feel for the Icelandic horse. rocks, created by the slow cooling of the lava the willpower to drag themselves from the gourmet meals. This tour suits ages 8 to 99. You will take a flow from volcanic eruptions thousands of deliciously warm water are richly rewarded An exclusive lounge is set aside for guests 1½ - 2 hour ride through ancient lava fields years ago, give the illusion of a lunar landscape. for their effort in the Lava Restaurant & who want more privacy. The six rooms surrounding Íshestar’s Riding Centre. Welcome to the otherworldly Blue Lagoon. Bar. Built into a cliff, it gets its name from feature a changing area, vanity, and shower Horse and Blue Lagoon Tour: After a ride A path leading to the main entrance takes of 1 ½ - 2 hours you will be driven to the you into rooms accented with rich chestnut- fabulous Blue Lagoon, the perfect place for a brown wood, framed by natural rock. Beyond soothing swim in the mineral rich waters, get the doors of the changing rooms lies geothermal a massage for those achy muscles or just relax seawater enriched with silica and algae minerals and enjoy the facilities. (Blue Lagoon entrance to energize and nourish your skin. The brisk fees are not included in the tour price.) Icelandic weather rushes you into the pool and seconds later the warm embrace of that For the authentic Icelandic experience geothermal seawater enfolds you. this year, let Íshestar show you the way Trained masseuses can float you effortlessly – Íshestar emv through the water for submerged spa treatments while soothing any tensions from your trip. They

Sörlaskeið 26 • 220 Hafnarfjörður gently place you on a raft as warm water lazily laps yet gentle, standing strong in the face of the tour, whether it is an easygoing ride for +354 555 7000 over your body. Stress melts away in the healing conflicting winds of adversity, hard working beginners or a multi-day tour for the more [email protected] blue water, transforming concern into relaxed and loyal, handsome and hardy. Can these experienced rider somewhere in the far www.ishestar.is energy, which you can take home with help from an words not describe both horse and man? reaches of the country. assortment of spa products available in the gift shop.

of the wood-burning stove in the dining room that serves to warm and brighten those rainy days that are sometimes a part TheSalthúsið ArtRestaurant of of Grindavik Bacalao of life in Grindavik. Aside from the á la all it bacalao, salted cod, morue Benefiting from its proximity to the carte evening menu, there is more casual - or saltfisk in Icelandic, the cod sea, Salthúsið’s á la carte menu features fare for the lunch crowd, a café with free fishC was once so important to Iceland’s beautifully presented seafood that couldn’t Internet access and a bar which is popular economy that it featured prominently on be fresher: whether it’s cod, haddock or with the locals on weekends. the Icelandic Coat of Arms. The Salthúsið catfish or even lobster – it all depends on Salthúsið Restaurant, just 5 minutes drive from the internationally acclaimed Blue Lagoon, is housed in a warm and which open into a hall that leads to a inviting log house, made of solid Estonian second floor balcony overlooking the main pine. The restaurant, spanning 2 floors, pool. Downstairs in a shared lounge amid is an elegant venue for banquets, parties, subtly scattered curved grey chairs, fresh conferences and reception dinners fruit, tea and coffee await, while a cheerful accommodating a total of 200 guests. fire warms the room. A small indoor pool The large premises can host conferences, is reserved for guests of the lounge and workshops and meetings in 3 dining provides access, through a private entrance, rooms, each with its own separate sound to the main pool. For those who want to system, wireless Internet and an overhead treat themselves, full meals, small dishes, projection system. and cocktails can be ordered from the Lava Restaurant & Bar. (Salt House) Restaurant of Grindavik is the ‘catch of the day’. Not a fish lover? –emv –kb Salthúsið Blue Lagoon the first restaurant in Iceland specialising The menu also features items such as in the lowly codfish, bringing it up to marinated fillet of lamb, beef tenderloin Stamphólsvegur 2 • 240 Grindavík Grindarvíkurvegur 5 • 240 Grindavík new heights. Once the staple of the poor, and BBQ ribs amongst others. +354 426 9700 +354 420 8800 baccalao has been a celebrated ingredient Linger over a glass of wine from [email protected] [email protected] in Mediterranean, African, and Caribbean Salthúsið’s extensive wine list while www.salthusid.is www.bluelagoon.is cuisine for many centuries. listening to the soft ambient music in front

36 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 37 Guesthouse Borg is an ideal place to stay, meet interesting people Very Highly Recommended Guesthouse Borg offers economical comfort in a friendly house and enjoy the facilities and fun the town Salty Tours Take You on Trips that will Leave You Awed Salty Tours picks travellers up from hotels The Place to Stay in Grindavík offers. It caters for individuals, couples, A Tour to Rave About in Reykjavik and drives out for a day on the n most countries, the opportunity to families and groups of up to 16 people he first thing that came to mind was, there seems little of apparent interest - Reykjanes peninsula. Þorsteinn (Thorsteinn) experience life in a fishing town has all in a clean, modestly-priced homestay “What is half a shipwreck doing so far but that is what makes Iceland special: knows this area like the back of his hand - butI disappeared. Not so in Iceland, where accommodation. You’ll find a full kitchen inland?”T Then, when I saw the other half a you have to do a little searching to find its history, culture, people, land, animals Grindavík is one of the busiest. Situated where you can cook your own meals, few hundred metres further up the road, the special experiences that will make and birds. He weaves them together into an a few kilometres from the world-famous a laundry and a computer to go online. I wondered, “What could possibly have your holiday memorable. experience that has resulted in rave reviews Blue Lagoon, 20 minutes from Keflavik’s Breakfasts are provided on a self-service split this steel ship in two and dumped the on TripAdvisor.com: “How amazing was this International airport and 40 minutes from the basis. Owners Björk and Magnús make mangled halves so far apart?” trip”, “Very highly recommended indeed… capital, the town is packed with history going this a comfortable home from which to I was just getting a glimpse of some of This tour was fantastic…” Having just back as far as the first settlers. A geological launch out to explore the area. the astonishing sights that Iceland offers. I sampled a few minutes of the tour, I can hotspot, the area offers such a wide array of realised there’s a power here of tremendous unequivocally echo these reactions. This is a other tours, sights and experiences that one proportions. Mind you, if I hadn’t taken tour that will give you a new perspective on holiday is not enough. The Grand Volcano and Lava Circle Tour, life in the North. I would probably never have seen this or the many other dramatic sights this day had Time to Reflect in the Blue Lagoon presented me. After a day filled with new activities every few minutes, your mind needs a break, so the tour ends at the world-renowned Blue Lagoon, where you can relax in its health- – Guesthouse Borg asf giving hot geothermal waters, laced with healing minerals, as you mull over all you

Borgarhraun 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 895 8686 [email protected] www.guesthouseborg.com

Grindavik’s Kanturinn is all things to all men when it comes to refreshment. Here, you will find many nationalities enjoying Beams,Kanturinn Bar and Bottles, Restaurant Barrels & Beer themselves in the comfort of the bar and ikings know how to enjoy themselves After an exciting day of tours around - the fishing community, especially. this rugged coast or over its rough lava ThatV makes Grindavík popular with fields, it’s time to unwind and enjoy the tourists who want to experience the real company of the local folk in this fishing culture of the country. town. Filled with character - and people,

restaurant, which serves both burgers and Asian food, with beer and soft drinks, Guided Tours Make All the Difference have encountered in just one day before making it also a fun place for families. Savvy visitors to Iceland are becoming more taking the tour bus back to your hotel. Whether sitting outside on the patio aware of the value of guided tours as a way of You will probably feel you have just lived under the midnight sun or inside, not just seeing sights but of experiencing all several lives all at once and will be left with surrounded by wood beams, this is the the different facets of the country. Although the hunch that if this one peninsula has so Icelandic pub at it’s best. Nothing makes it may seem more economical to just rent a much to offer, then the rest of your trip will them happier than a satisfied customer. car and drive around, there is so much more provide a lifetime of memories. –asf in a tour. You see places you would never –asf Kanturinn SaltyTours have seen and enjoy the fascinating history

Hafnargata 6 • 240 Grindavík you would never have heard - not to mention Borgarhrauni 1 • 240 Grindavík +354 426 9999 the anecdotes and pleasure. +354 820 5750 [email protected] Many tourists just drive straight from [email protected] none Keflavik airport to the capital, passing www.saltytours.is fields of lava. From the coach or car,

38 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 39 over the lava or riding meal. With such a variety on horseback - or bicycle. There are miles of meals available, you can visit often and Spectacular Secrets for Savvy Sightseers of hiking trails with amazing panoramas Tantalise Your Taste Buds and Satisfy Your Stomach try a new dish each time. Hidden Behind the Lava and fascinating sights. It’s a dream for Mamma Mia The restaurant serves drinks of all kinds, rindavík is a town with a history going countries. You can try some in the museum’s ornithologists and geologists. For those Grindavík’s a great place to stay when dishes. Grindavík is famous for its saltfish including beers, wine and spirits. It’s a lovely back to the early settlers of the 800’s. café run by Mamma Mia restaurant. with wide-ranging interests, this is an area exploring and touring the amazing sights or bacalao, as the Spanish call it, that is place to dine outside in the warm summer SetG on the wild coastline behind a field of Above it is the dramatic Magma museum, that would take all your time and keep you of the Reykjanes peninsula - but, wherever so popular in Mediterranean countries. evenings, sheltered from any wind. The fresh lava, it is just out of sight of travellers going to giving a very clear picture of life under the coming back for more. Sports are popular you stay, there’s always the question of Alongside this delicious cod dish, you will sea air is both stimulating and restful. and from the airport. Like much of Iceland, it earth here. The areas in Reykjanes where in the town, which has a large swimming where to eat! Just 200 metres from the also find the freshest plaice, straight from Mamma Mia has seating for 30 outside campsite - and right opposite the newly- the harbour just metres away. along with the 60 places inside. This makes opened Magma museum, close to the harbour, is one of the hottest additions to the restaurant scene, Mamma Mia.

This comfortable restaurant is a pizzeria with a full complement of pizza sizes and types, all hand-made and stone-baked with a delicious crunchy crust. They produce their own ‘Mamma Mia’ pizza is filled with hidden secrets to be investigated. fire and water mix in a cauldron that bursts pool complex with hot pots (jacuzzis), slide, topped with tuna, shrimp and mussels - a Only 3 km from the Blue Lagoon, out on the peninsula, are especially worth children’s pool, tanning beds and sauna. An real speciality. Grindavík town offers an inspiring insight checking out - along with one of the very few 18-hole golf course set in spectacular vistas is No restaurant in a fishing town would Whether you are hankering for a it a convenient stop for lunch or an evening into a fishing community. The harbour is full places on Earth where you can stand on two just 4 km from the Blue Lagoon. be complete without a selection of seafood hamburger or are looking for a traditional meal for tour groups visiting the museum. of life, with ships of different sizes coming different continents. There is also a Hiking festival over lamb or beef steak, you’ll find them here, They also run the coffee shop in the museum, and going. It’s hard to imagine that, until Grindavík has all kinds of bars and Verslunarmannahelgin - the last weekend as this is a restaurant with a wide to which they add life with portions of salt about 80 years ago, men braved the wild seas restaurants. Accommodation is available in in July. selection of dishes on its menu. fish that you can snack on as you enjoy the to go fishing in rowing boats. Guesthouse Borg, Arctic B&B or at the new For details of the coach connections with Mamma Mia offers a choice exhibition, besides offering the usual drinks This history is vividly portrayed in the campsite, a virtual paradise for families which Reykjavik, go to www.grindavik.is/bus of sandwiches with and snacks. Seated in the coffee shop, you museum, located just behind the harbour. offers 2-for-1 passes to the Blue Lagoon. It is little wonder that this seemingly- different original have a view over the harbour and can watch Grindavík is famous for both its stockfish Travel options include guided tours of the hidden area is so popular with Icelanders fillings, if you’re the boats returning and unloading their and saltfish, a national dish in Mediterranean peninsula with Salty Tours; driving an ATV and a growing number of knowledgeable looking for catch. tourists alike. With so much to experience a lighter Mamma Mia is open from 11:30 until 10 in such a small area, it’s a place not to pm - or later and you can order their pizzas miss on your itinerary. Their website has a to be delivered to your hotel, guesthouse or wealth of information that will pack your the campsite - even the Blue Lagoon and holiday with memorable experiences. Northern Light Inn. –asf –asf Grindavík Mamma Mia

Víkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík Hafnargata 7a • Grindavík +354 420 1100 +354 426 9966 [email protected] [email protected] www.visitgrindavik.is www.mammamia.is

40 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 41 At Vikingaheimar, you can see the replica Viking longship that sailed to the USA in 2000 to celebrate the millennial anniversary of Leif (The Lucky) Eríksson’s trip to discover ‘Vinland’, as he called the New World - almost half a millennium before Columbus. Practically every kind of accommodation from camping and hostels to guesthouses and hotels is available in Reykjanes - usually located close to key sites of interest. The former NATO base is now a centre for constructive innovation, with a university,

Iceland’sReykjanes: Some of Everything andHub Some Unique he Blue Lagoon is famous worldwide Some of these experiences are unique to for its warm, healing waters. It’s one Reykjanes. You won’t find them anywhere ofT the ‘must visits’ on most tourists’ lists. else in the world. These are the experiences A brilliant blue amidst the grey lava, that make Iceland so highly recommended with steam rising from its waters, it and that make your holiday so incomparable. is an astonishing sight. However, it is Keflavik Airport is the main hub for air away. Behind the lava fields which hide it from many start-up companies covering an array only just one facet of this amazing area traffic in and out of Iceland. Situated on the the main road, just over 3 km down the road of fields, a health spa and large guesthouse. of the country. Reykjanes peninsula, it is surrounded by from the Blue Lagoon, lies the fishing town Maps and information can be found in Reykjanes represents a microcosm of natural and geological phenomena, art and of Grindavik, famous for its salt fish and the the Tourist Information Centre, located all Iceland offers. It would be a mistake culture, entertainment and sport, myth and bacalao that is a national delicacy amongst in Krossmói 4, as well as in the hotels and to overlook it in your visit to the country history. The Reykjanes coastline is notorious Mediterranean countries. A museum has just guesthouses and at the airport. as it has so many unique and fascinating for its fierce weather and powerful seas, calm opened there showing the history behind the Iceland has been called, ‘Europe’s Best features. If you are staying in Reykjavik, as a millpond one minute, churned into a fish and upstairs is a dramatic presentation of Kept Secret’ and she doesn’t give up those there are scheduled buses and tours that deadly raging fury the next. It is an area the geology of the peninsula at the Magma secrets easily. It takes time to experience all can open up its treasures to you. Did you that has tested the mettle of generations of museum. the hidden things Reykjanes holds - but it want to see bird life, or whales or historical brave Vikings who have wrestled a hard-won For those used to big city life, the tours of offers memories that you will treasure and sites, or maybe cross the bridge between living from it. the peninsula reveal another world entirely. an adventure that is rare in today’s world. – two continents? How about golf, hiking, From the airport, it is but a few minutes to It’s a land steeped in history as dramatic as Reykjanes Marketing Office asf horse, bike or ATV quad bike riding? the town of Keflavik, which is the hub for all ‘Lord of the Rings’ - but totally factual. It’s

Would you like to try shark meat, washed connections around the peninsula. Alternatively, a young land, geologically - and much of it Kjarrmóa 4 • 260 Reykjanesbæ down with the local brew, Brennivín? Did Sandgerði, with its Nature Centre or Garður, is still hot. Whether hot mud springs or lava +354 893 4096 you hear about the giantess in the cave with its beautiful old church and Garðskagi’s fields, volcanos or the fault lines of grinding [email protected] near Gróf Marina or Gunna, the ghost at museum and lighthouses overlooking sea bird tectonic plates - they are all here, showing off www.visitreykjanes.is the boiling mud springs? colonies, seals and whales are only minutes the powerful forces that created them.

42 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 43 migratory birds gather each Inside, the wood-panelled spring. The town’s oldest house, after which restaurant provides a cosy atmosphere. Diners The charming town of Sandgerði within reach the town of Sandgerði was named, stands by Vitinn - the Sandgerði Restaurant right at the Harbour are surrounded by memorabilia from the area’s Man, the Sea and Nature the pond. The house was erected in 1883. A A Mecca for Seafood Lovers fishing and agricultural heritage which adds andgerði is a charming fishing town on the new road lies south from Sandgerði passing isiting the Reykjanes peninsula is to the distinctive ambiance. The restaurant western side of the Reykjanes peninsula Hvalsnes and Stafnes on to Hafnir village. something almost every visitor does - has places for groups and individuals - but the Swhich has the Keflavik International Airport This offers the possibility of making a round whetherV just flying in or out of the country service is equally personal for both. Icelandic within its boundaries. Sandgerði is one of trip of the northern part of the peninsula or touring around it to enjoy its many sights hospitality is warm, friendly and unpretentious. the country’s major fishing communities, where there are many beautiful spots to visit, and adventures. If you’re looking for somewhere to celebrate with a storied history and loads to see. Rich some of which have historical significance. Just minutes from the airport, in the an event, Vitinn makes it truly memorable, fishing-grounds are found just off the coast of town of Sandgerði, you will find a popular with their staff dressed in national costume. Sandgerði and in recent years, good harbour restaurant right by the harbour, known as Children are very welcome and they have facilities have been constructed in the town. the Lighthouse Restaurant or Vitinn that a special reward when they finish their In 1986, the community celebrated its 100th prepares a dish you won’t find anywhere else. scrumptious meal from the children’s menu. anniversary.

This beautiful restaurant brings the freshest seafood straight to your palate. With the harbour a mere stone’s throw away, you can enjoy a meal that is full of freshness and flavour. You will find out for yourself why this spot was chosen by Steinunn the Old, cousin of the first Viking settler, Ingólfur A great variety of Icelandic handmade Arnason in the 800’s. souvenirs is on sale at Listatorg souvenir Offering an excellent range of fish and shop and the handcraft workshop Ný-Vídd seafood, Vitinn is a mecca for fish lovers. at Vitatorg. Vitinn and Mamma-Mia However, its speciality is the Rock Crab, a restaurants are in walking distance from delicacy found only in this part of Iceland Vitatorg. and on the US East coast. This is the only restaurant in Europe that offers this treat fresh from the sea. Special tanks ensure Vitinn is open for lunch year-round and, Everyone needs Recreation their cleanliness in the University Research from May to September, is open all day, A new swimming pool has been opened in Centre, so you can be sure of the very best too. The coffee house has a range of snacks, Monument to Might Centre called Fraedasetrið, where visitors Sandgerði with hot tubs and slides for the dining experience. cakes, waffles and specialities from its home- When entering the town, the art monument, can learn more about the birds, beaches and kids. Then there is also a new and excellent Owners, Stefán Sigurðsson, the restaurant’s baked cuisine. Álög, stands dignified on the left side. The sea life of the area in an unusual and exciting 18-hole golf course, Kirkjubólsvöllur, chef, and his wife Brynhildur Kristjánsdóttir You can see the quality and standard of monument, made by sculptor Steinunn way. An exhibition on the life and work with its elegant club house. An impressive have created a menu to show off Icelandic the food from the photos but visiting and Þórarinsdóttir, is in honour of seamen and is of the famous French polar explorer Dr. camping site with a service building is cuisine at its best. Besides seafood, there enjoying a lunch or dinner is clearly the only to remind us of how small and insignificant Jean-Baptiste Charcot is on display at the situated in the town. are the lamb and beef dishes along with an way to experience it. human existence can be when dealing with museum. He died when his vessel, ‘Pourquoi –RR international range of meals. –asf Sandgerði Vitinn the powerful ocean. pas?’, sank in a violent storm in Faxaflói Bay, On a sunny day, eating outside is a pleasure,

off Mýrar on 16th September 1936. Garðvegur 1 • 245 Sandgerði with the view over the harbour. For those used Vitatorg 7 • 245 Sandgerði Exploring Nature The lighthouse in Sandgerði is one of +354 423 7551 to big city life, there’s no smog or pollution here, +354 423 7755 There are many interesting things to do few of its kind in the country and is a great [email protected] so the fresh air and relaxed lifestyle of this little [email protected] in Sandgerði and lots of places to visit. place to visit. In the northern part of town www.sandgerdi.is coastal town add to the enjoyment of the meal. www.vitinn.is No one should miss visiting the Nature is Sandgerðistjörn pond, where hundreds of

44 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 45 Moonscape Riding with ATV-Adventures in Grindavík Adrenalin Pumping Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon We are one of the leading tour operators in Iceland and offer professional services, flexibility and safety for travellers in Iceland.

Allow us to introduce you to the variety that Iceland has to offer; from its richness in culture and history to its breathtaking beauty in nature and daily life.

Enjoy Iceland with Iceland Excursions – Gray Line Iceland

a pick-up at your haunted, an old lighthouse, a look into a hotel in Reykjavik or volcanic crater and a chance to pick up Keflavik and several options a lava rock that feels actually still warm Gullfoss for further activities the same day. to the touch. The 6-7 hour Volcanic lthough exploring A popular choice is to make the most of Safari offers you the chance to see all foreign landscapes through your last day in Iceland with a car waiting of Reykjanes’ most dramatic locations theA window of a moving car and the for you and your luggage at your hotel in one exciting trip that includes the occasional stop can be quite efficient and in the morwning, then some adrenaline birdlife in the area, lunch down by the comfortable, there is really nothing which pumping quad-biking, then winding up in docks in the fishing town of Grindavík, compares to scaling volcanic craters and the Blue Lagoon while ATV safely stores the multi-coloured landscapes of Taste the Saga Geysir area speeding across sandy beaches on a quad- your luggage before finally heading off to Vigdísarvellir and all of the activities in bike! ATV-Adventures in Grindavík offer the airport in the afternoon. the other tours. Þingvellir National Park you that unique chance through practical and thrilling tours on the volcanic Alien and Foreign Landscapes Safety First landscapes of the Reykjanes peninsula. The tours include the compact ATV places special emphasis on safety Being the ‘youngest’ part of Iceland and Panorama Tour, which takes you up a and quality equipment in their tours. All the upper-most part of the North-Atlantic hard mountain path for some splendid of the tour guides are required to complete ridge, the Reykjanes peninsula is abundant views and a ride along the coastline with strenuous safety and first-aid courses and with geological wonders and spectacular stops at the various shipwrecks. The Lava the company works closely with the local views, including immense lava fields, hot Beach Tour goes further into the culture rescue team to map out all possible safety springs, multi coloured landscapes and, and history of the area inw two hours and scenarios. All the quad-bikes are specially the most famous of all, the Blue Lagoon. explores the lives of the local fishermen built for two persons, which means both You can explore in the wide array of tours in the past. riders are fully insured. ATV-Adventures has on offer. The Trip to the Moon tour takes you for a three-hour ride on top of a relatively –vag ATV-Adventures Make Your Last Day in Iceland Count recent lava field, so recent that vegetation The practical aspect of ATV-Adventures has yet to get a foothold on it and smoke Tangasund 1 • 240 Grindavík is the ability to combine excitement with actually steams up from underneath, an +354 857 3001 ( Like-yar-torg) the often tedious logistics of travelling. alien and foreign landscape for sure – [email protected] Instead of having to arrange different modes hence the name. The tour also includes a www.atv-adventures.com of transport for each activity, ATV offers you stop at a hot spring which rumours say is Visit our sales office at Lækjartorg square, call us at (+354) 540 1313 or go to www.grayline.is. 46 www.icelandictimes.com Picture romantic gourmet Curiosity about Icelandic dinners with views over the fjord as the history is not the only hunger satisfied by the A Secluded Boutique Hotel with the Perfect Ambiance sun begins to slowly wend its way to the Settlement Centre, which features a bright Romantic and Dreamy northwestern horizon. Hotel Glymur’s á la SettlingA Condensed Version for of History More in The Settlement Centre, Borganes and spacious restaurant on its second floor. here is a magical quality to the light tiled bathrooms come with plenty of carte restaurant offers some tempting dishes celandic history is not for the faint several languages, the power of these in Iceland throughout the year, no fluffy towels and robes which you are such as roasted lamb fillet with blueberry of heart. Defined by the exploits of narratives is often lost in a minefield matterT what the season. Hotel Glymur encouraged to lounge about in. sauce and an amazing pan-fried salt fish adventurousI Norwegian colonists and of patronymic homage to ancestors who takes full advantage of its privileged There are three gorgeous suites, the with strawberry and mint sauce. Very written during the Middle Ages, Iceland’s kept thorough records. position on a hillside overlooking the ‘Hallgrímsstofa Suite’, named after the tempting indeed! bloody past is a challenge to understand The need for a condensed version of famous 17th century poet-priest and unaided. Murderous family rivalries Iceland’s past led to the creation of the the ‘Guðriðarstófa Suite’ named after coupled with escalating strife between Settlement Centre, which brings Icelandic his wife. The stylish and spacious suites Iceland and Norway was recorded history to life. Two exhibits initiate both look out on the fjord and the in several volumes of visitors into Iceland’s founding and vividly church, where Hallgrímur and his wife historical records detail Egil’s Saga, one of the main epics lived and worked. The smallest of the and sagas. While written in the 13th century, by adopting three suites is named after Hallgrímur these deeds have been theatrical elements to imaginatively retell Prepared using five element principles which and Guðríður´s son Eyjólfur and is translated into well-known tales. Interactive displays, focus on balanced nutrition, the Settlement suitable for disabled people including a Viking ship simulation of the Centre’s restaurant serves up a tasty array of and the elderly. first journey from Iceland to Norway and choices. A local favourite is the lunch lively renderings of characters from Egil’s buffet of soup, salads, and homemade Saga sculpted by different artists in breads prepared unique media, do justice to detailed descriptions of Iceland’s origins from the 13th century Book of Settlement and

Snorri Sturluson’s renowned depiction of fresh daily. In the evenings, a dinner menu Egill Skallagrimsson, Iceland’s foremost caters meatier dishes of lamb, fish, and warrior-poet. These images, paired occasionally horse. fjord; the midday sun reflects off the Six new self-catered villas, each with with a multilingual iPod guide, are The Settlement Centre has expanded its deep blue waters in such a way that I am their own original theme are all fabulously designed to leave an indelible impression current exhibitions with a third project, a GPS sure I have just been transported into appointed with modern furnishings in on visitors. Run by husband and wife guided tour of its surroundings in Borgarnes. a dreamy impressionist painting that I delightful combinations of vibrant colours team Kjartan Ragnarsson and Sigríður Since many scenes from Egil’s Saga have never want to leave. which contrast with the tranquil panoramic Margrét Guðmundsdóttir, the Settlement unfolded close to the Settlement Museum, the The secluded boutique hotel is a views just outside the door. Watching the Centre was founded with the desire to GPS winds visitors through countryside where popular destination for a romantic midnight sun set across the fjord, while associate places with Sagas and stories the sagas took place. Visitors can then listen on weekend getaway and has even been enjoying a glass of champagne from your from historical texts. Enriched with this the spot to stories from the sagas, giving a sense the venue for the occasional wedding. villa’s private hot tub is highly recommended. background knowledge, visitors can then of place to vast stretches of history. The sleek Italian leather sofas in the –emv easily appreciate the connection between –EMV Hótel Glymur The Settlement Centre suites and villas, some in cool shades of Iceland’s past and present; its places and lime green, orange or chartreuse, are at Hvalfirði • 301 Akranesi stories. One hour is all it takes to get the 13 -15 Brákarbraut • 310 Borgarnes once restful and energising, giving each +354 430 3100 gist of Iceland’s last thousand years, with +354 437 1600 room a distinctive character. The 22 [email protected] the Settlement Centre handpicking choice [email protected] double rooms are called ‘gallery mini- www.hotelglymur.is morsels to whet visitors’ appetites for www.landnam.is suites’ and the ensuite floor-to-ceiling Icelandic history and sagas. 48 49 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com compiles all the passion Visitors are offered a and previous work of Bernd in houses personal and relaxed way to stay. Hótel Brú Brúðuheimar’s Puppetry Masters formerly used as a trading post and almost provides 8 double rooms with made up beds Who’s Pulling the Strings turned into harbour-side apartments in StayHótel Brú offers by warmth the and comfortBay and a bathroom. The rooms are charming immed lights slowly turn on 2003. ótel Brú – The Bridge Hotel is situated and snug with comfy furniture. A hearty as a skilled puppeteer picks up Slowing down is encouraged at close to the the town of Borgarnes breakfast welcomes guests in the morning in severalD small figures and a story unfolds. Brúðuheimar, where children can retreat andH the bridge crossing Borgarfjörður bay. the restaurant or out on the lovely balcony Background scenery, made of colourful upstairs to dress up in costumes and act out Hótel Brú offers guests the homey feeling of overlooking the the bay on the one side and felt, changes with the seasons of a play their own play or build with wooden blocks warmth and comfort in a cosy atmosphere sheltered by the mountain range on the other. which tells the parable of a lazy woman who made at Brúðuheimar’s workshop. Parents with a spectacular view over the the bay, the Hótel Brú has an excellent restaurant, with bargains with a troll to work for her for free. and adults also have their chance to enjoy beautiful countryside and, in the distance, its lavish decoration and agreeable atmosphere. Textured with clever lighting and realistic quiet moments in a vegetarian café, where Snæfellsjökull volcano and glacier. The antique style furniture gives the place a sound effects produced by the puppeteer, the food is made from scratch and most Owner and chef Veigar Freyr Jökulsson nice and classy appearance. A selection of Brúðuheimar’s plays ignite the imaginations ingredients are organic. Visitors of any age has, in recent months, transformed an older dictionaries decorate one of cabinets. can exercise their imaginations with shadow hotel into a charming place where tourists puppetry and a play area demonstrating can drop in for a meal at the restaurant or a Bernd’s methods for creating his characters few nights’ stay in the hotel before continuing on stage. Surprisingly, some of the most on their travels around the country. effective performances involve no more than hands and small accessories like shoes or goggly eyes that fit between fingers.

The food in the restaurant is delicious. Brúðuheimar’s staff can guide visitors ‘‘I have been very satisfied with the The menu provides an Icelandic cuisine of young and old. Parents sit hushed with through the exhibits to give a better idea reception that Hótel Brú has received in with local ingredients from the region. The entranced toddlers, who stay still for almost of the work behind the scenes. “We want recent months. It has also been pleasant how selection of dishes includes fish, lamb and an hour mesmerised by the tiny figures. “We people to experience something closer to many guests from various countries have puffin. The prices are very reasonable. The want to encourage play, not only in children theatre. This is not something that you can visited us and have been impressed with the casual friendliness of the staff, the laid-back but in adults who are normally discouraged read, but something you need to try for stay and the food. That makes me feel its all atmosphere and the easygoing buzz among from playing,” explains Hildur, director of yourself,” says Hildur, who has witnessed worthwhile,” says Jökulsson. the diners gives the place a nice feel and the museum, “Puppetry is another kind of many adult visitors light up when they offers guests an enjoyable stay. storytelling that we are trying to revive at perform small shows with the puppets At Hótel Brú, you feel unrushed and a time when speed often trumps artistry.” provided. Brúðuheimar is open from 10:00 at ease - whether you want a good night‘s Though Brúðuheimar only opened last am to 9:00 pm in the summer, but has more sleep or a delicious Icelandic meal. The year, it has received much attention, mainly flexibility for groups. Plays are run on most atmosphere, the food and the location makes because of Bernd Ogrodnik’s lifelong Sundays at 2:00 pm and cost 2000 ISK. Hótel Brú a place that should not be missed. mission to reinvigorate puppetry. Bernd –KB Brúðuheimar Hótel Brú is a classical pianist who taught himself woodworking and began puppeteering Skúlagata 17 • 310 Borgarnes Hafnarskógur • 311 Borgarbyggð over twenty years ago. His theatrical works +354 530 5000 +354 437 2345 have gained international recognition [email protected] [email protected] and redefined puppetry by pushing the www.bruduheimar.is www.hotelbru.is limitations of the art form. Brúðuheimar

50 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 51 Located at the tip of the peninsula, the lounge looks out over the rocks Breathtaking Beauty in Borgarnes B & B towards the sea. The view is stunning and the Stay in Style sun puts on a spectacular show every clear orgarnes is becoming known as a town floor or the whole house is available to rent. Its size evening as it dips towards the horizon. The patio for artists and designers but, long before and its calm style is just right for small retreats below the lounge provides a lovely sheltered spot theyB started to arrive, the most beautiful house or conferences where a warm comfort is more to enjoy the warmth, the garden and the view. in Borgarnes was built in 1947. Designed by important than an extravagant hotel’s luxury. Halldór Jónsson, it has many very unusual After farming for over 30 years, Inger decided features. The house is bright and airy, with that she wanted to buy a house in Borgarnes. A paintings on the walls and other beautiful works friend told her of this house at 11 am and she had throughout, making it a very special place to stay. bought it by 3 o’clock the same afternoon! When you visit, you will understand why. An unusual feature of the house is the theme of cows that is found throughout. Children will love a hunt around the house to find all the cows and other animals in all their forms. There are 7 rooms including a 4-bed family room. The house is very child- and baby-friendly. Bird-watchers can enjoy the wide variety of The garden has a play area with swings and a birdlife, both in the tall fir trees and amongst trampoline but, right next door is a famous play the rocks in the sea. Birds like the eider are park that an older man crafted specially out of frequently seen. – timber for the children in the neighbourhood to Borgarnes B&B asf enjoy themselves in a beautiful location. Each

room also has a TV and free wireless Internet Skúlagata 21 • 310 Borgarnes Its owner, Inger, has now opened it up for access. Guests can use the very large, beautifully +354 434 1566 visitors to stay and enjoy the beauty of the house laid-out kitchen, to cook for themselves if [email protected] and the area it overlooks. The house is ideal for they wish - but there is a delicious breakfast www.borgarnesbb.is groups wanting some time together. Either a single available every day.

to Egil Skalla-Grímsson, the warrior-poet a relaxing soak in the hot pot, sheltered The English Houses with History and Soul who wrote his first poem whilst drunk from any wind, overlooking the beautiful Cosy, traditional family home away from home at the age of 3, the Scottish Lord Oran Steindórsstaðir’s Superb View of the Beautiful Dale countryside, a drink in hand, enjoying the Campell bought the house, river and fishing Relax in Reykholt company of friends you’ve just made. Or t’s always nice to feel at home - even better, To call Ensku húsin (The English Houses) rights. On his death, an English lady, Mrs. ike all the world’s cities, Reykjavík is At Steindórsstaðir, a sheep and milk farm set you can sit on the patio, watching the sun when you don’t have to do the cooking but a guesthouse is to do it disservice. It has Kennard, bought it, she and her fishing a busy place, filled with all the traits on the side of a hill, you can stay as long as you going down at midnight, unwinding from canI eat a delicious, traditional cuisine. Better been family-run for three generations, with friends coming each summer. It was named, ofL a modern city life. You have to get out of like! The house, originally built in 1938, has the stress of daily life at home. still, when that home is in the Icelandic a fascinating history. ‘The English Houses’ out of respect for the city to enjoy the peace and beauty of the been beautifully restored and re-designed with This is a family-run guesthouse where you countryside, right by the Sjávarfoss or ‘sea Built in 1884 by a carpenter for his her. She was forcibly shipped home by the countryside. everything you need for a comfortable break. can visit at any time of the year and enjoy waterfall’, marking the point where the river’s family, it became a fishing lodge when he British ambassador after the war broke out Just an hour and a half away is the village of Hot showers, underfloor heating, self-catering each season’s special characteristics in all fresh water meets the sea’s salt waters and moved to America. After being owned by and never returned, selling it to Geir Zoega, Reykholt. Every direction you look, there are in a fully-equipped kitchen, cosy lounge and their fullness. There are 7 rooms, single, where salmon leap on their way upstream. the priest at Borg, the farm that was home who had cared for it. He, in turn, sold it to beautiful rolling hills. Sheep and cows graze comfortable beds - they are all there. double and a triple with space for 12 guests a young farmer, Jóhannes Guðmundsson, peacefully. Birds sing in the trees but, otherwise, it After a day’s hiking in the area, it is so at a time at very economical rates. Families whose family rebuilt it, turning it into a very is peaceful. You think, “I could settle down here!” nice to come back to a hot shower and find this a wonderful place for a holiday, comfortable guesthouse. giving the children that special experience of Open all year round, it’s an ideal place being around the animals, developing a love for individuals and families, celebrations and appreciation of nature. Jón Helgason, or small conferences. In summer, it’s a the poet, lived nearby, getting his inspiration beautiful location to base from while from the hills, canyon and many waterfalls. exploring this rich and diverse area with its Now, there are 25 hectares of trees growing spectacular features and colourful history. in a reforestation project that makes a very enjoyable area to stroll in. –asf –asf Enskuhúsin Steindórsstaðir

Litla-Brekka • 311 Borgarbyggð Reykholt • 320 Borgarfjörður +354 437 1826 +354 435 1227 [email protected] [email protected] www.enskuhusin.is www.steindorsstadir.is

52 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 53 The restaurant employs a couple of top notch chefs who specialise in Character and Charm in Southern Snæfellsnes a variety of fish & seafood dishes. They use Surrounded By Nature the freshest possible trout and salmon from angaholt Guest House looks out over hotel status with its spacious accommodation nearby rivers, while the cod, catfish, monk Faxaflói bay on the southern side of and á la carte restaurant, Keli prefers fish, halibut or plaice come straight from the theL Snæfellnes Peninsula. In summer, Arctic nevertheless to retain the true character of a fishermen on Breiðafjord and Faxaflói Bays. Terns preside over the landscape. To the country guesthouse with a warm and inviting “I never know exactly what is going to be west, Snæfellsjökull perches on the horizon, atmosphere, where guests can feel at home. on the day’s menu - it really just depends on providing guests with quintessential post- what the fishermen bring in that day,” Keli card views of this mysterious glacier-topped explains. Fish stock, patés and several types mountain. of bread and cakes are all made here. Owner/manager Þorkell, or Keli as he The restaurant is open daily from 8 am likes to be called, says that the guest house to 9 pm and travellers are welcome to stop has been in his family since 1978. Today, in for a hearty breakfast or enjoy a delicious most operations of Langaholt Guest house, bowl of fresh seafood soup served with camping site and 9-hole golf course are all home-made bread for lunch. Relax with overseen by members of Keli’s extended glass of wine or a cold Icelandic beer while family. And while certainly coming close to perusing the á la carte menu in the evening, which offers starters, main courses and deserts. with the farmers, whose sheep they stole to survive, lie buried in the cave’s recesses. Ghosts and other spirits may lurk in the TheSummering Call at Gamli Baerof the Countryside depths of Surtshellir, but visitors who have n the summertime, Reykjavik’s residents ventured into the cave always triumphantly flee the city for a much needed vacation. reappear hours later without having ManyI head to houses in Húsafell, a encountered any wandering phantoms. sprawling area of farms turned into summer cottages with restaurants and pools flanked by Eiríksjökull and Langjökull glaciers. Húsafell’s allure lies somewhere between its snow-covered mountains and valleys sprinkled with farms, less than an hour from Thingvellir, the rift between North America and Eurasia. Húsafell’s charm was tempting enough for Steinunn and her husband Sæmundur to move across Borgarfjörður and take over Gamli Baer, an old farm turned guesthouse built in 1908. “The minute I walked in, I just knew that I was home,” exclaimed Steinunn who prides herself in maintaining the farmhouse in its original condition, complete with a shared kitchen and dining Chalk and Art Langaholt Guest House is centrally room made for meeting fellow travellers. Chalky rocks found a short hike from located on the south coast of Snæfellsness At breakfast, the couple at Gamli Baer Gamli Baer supply artists with the colours to Peninsula, 89 km from Borgarnes and delight in getting visitors started on their capture Húsafell’s legends. Artwork by Pall 164 km from Reykjavik. Well situated for way by directing them to local attractions. Gudmundsson is scattered around Gamli exploring the wonders of the area, activities Húsafell’s pool, which houses a bouncing Baer, which lies close to his workspace. Pall’s such as horse riding, whale watching, bird castle, will expend children’s energy so Giants and Outlaws stone carvings are scattered around the area, life, hiking tours and fishing are just some that they will sleep soundly if parents want Unlike its current residents, Húsafell has which has inspired artists for centuries and of the possibilities. to get in a late night round of golf under a checkered past, unintentionally playing is likely to continue for years to come. –EMV the endless summer sun. Glacier hiking host to several rambunctious outlaws who –KB Langaholt Gamli bærinn Húsafelli and dog sledding guides are also on hand hid out in Surtshellir, Iceland’s longest cave

Ytri-Garðar • 356 Snæfellsbær for travellers who want to see Eiríksjökull measuring 1,970 metres. This cave is named Húsafell • 311 Borgarbyggð +354 435 6789 and Langjökull up close. On the weekend, after the fire giant, Surtr, who is said to have +354 895 1342 [email protected] bonfires light scarcely darkened Saturday hollowed out earth using his powerful flames [email protected] www.langaholt.is nights as a few amateur troubadours to create a place to rest. Remnants of Surtr’s serenade the crowd. existence and the outlaws final showdown

54 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 55 Touring Iceland from

Iceland Excursions-Grayline Iceland

f this is your first timeabove in Iceland, whether We head to Leiðarendi Lava Tube Cave, a and below Iceland Excursions Goes Above Ground just for a few days or for a few weeks, 30-minute drive from Reykjavik. For me, this A tour which gives insight into the considerI taking one of Iceland Excursion’s is definitely a first. The mini-bus with 6 other above-ground habits of Icelanders, the exciting guided day tours - a fantastic way to passengers, plus our driver/guide stops in the ‘Taste the Saga Tour’ is a relaxing and get to know the country, especially if you’re middle of a vast 1,000 year-old moss-covered fun way to learn about Iceland’s past short on time. barren plain. Sheer volcanic mountains rise and present. Iceland will amaze you with the sheer number straight up out of the plain and there is not What better way to understand Iceland’s of things to do, places to see and adventures to a soul in sight, be it man, sheep or horse. We colourful drinking culture than to visit partake of and Iceland Excursions goes to the don bright orange overalls, with matching it’s oldest brewery, Ölgerðin, named after limit, offering a wide variety of tours to make helmets and after a quick briefing, we’re off. Iceland’s most famous - and infamous - sure you get the most out of your stay. There It’s a short walk to the cave entrance and drunkard turned poet, Egill Skallagrímsson, are day tours to all the best-loved sights, activity there we clamber down the steep rocky who started both drinking and writing tours, combination tours, city and country incline and walk off into the darkness, poetry at the tender age of 3. breaks, and the list goes on and on. headlamps beaming brightly. Before touring the stylish headquarters, In this edition of Icelandic Times, the Some places are flat and smooth, the we of course get to taste various samples spotlight is on two very different tours, ceiling high, where we can walk upright. of beer, including an excellent modern-day an activity tour and a cultural tour, Further on, we walk hunched over and version of mead, which is similar to the stuff giving you an insider’s perspective of two still further, we have to crawl or do a crab that those Vikings used to drink, back in wildly different day trips. walk as the ceiling lowers to about 3 to the day. 4 feet (1 - 1.25 metres). It’s an amazing The tour concludes with a shot of Iceland Excursions Goes Underground experience and if you have ever wanted Brennivín, with it’s wonderful caraway seed In a cave produced by free flowing lava to try something challenging, going flavour and let’s just say, you will leave this about 1,000 years ago, we get ready to do just a bit, but not too far beyond your tour ‘happy’! some down-to-earth caving on this very normal comfort zone, then this is your –emv exciting tour! chance.

Iceland Excursions

Hafnarstræti 20 • 101 Reykjavík +354 540 1313 [email protected] www.grayline.is

56 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 57 the Copenhagen branch of the Icelandic Literary Society, after which, he The 200th anniversary of Jón Sigurðsson became known as President Jón, first among The Man Called ‘President’ his friends and then more generally. ou might expect a boy, growing up in one Even though he died in 1879, his efforts of the most remote parts of Iceland’s West brought Icelandic independence on the same Fjords,Y to become priest, like his father, a farmer day in 1944, the date chosen to honour the or a fisherman. Such was not to be the case with man who had done so much for the nation. Jón Sigurðsson. From this farm, he travelled to study and spend his life in Copenhagen, where From Home to Vibrant Museum he became the most ardent and strongest voice Today, his birthplace in Hrafnseyri has for the freedom of the Icelandic nation and its become a museum with a new, state-of-the- independence from Danish rule. art exhibition of his life and work. It also On the 17th June, the country celebrated uses the building’s own windows, integrating the 200th birthday of this freedom fighter, the views into the exhibit, at the same time, who fought so eloquently with words and taking the visitor back to a Europe in the grip wisdom, in contrast to the violence in other of revolutionary foment. A film in English, countries. In 1851, he was elected president of Danish & Icelandic is screened in the chapel. Open 10 am to 8 pm daily until end of August. Entrance is free. Ranking at the top of such exhibits, it is well worth making the trip to experience it. A Cosmopolitan Oasis in a Vast Area of –asf Hrafnseyri Natural Beauty Europe’sRemote, Beautiful andLast Tranquil—The Frontier Westfjords Ísafjörður has 2,600 inhabitants and is, Hrafnseyri • 471 Þingeyri by far, the largest town in the Westfjords. +354 456 8260 erenity, tranquillity and remoteness attract and 441 metre-high sea cliff, home to millions Excellent restaurants capitalise on fresh fish [email protected] people to the Westfjords. It is a favourite of nesting sea birds in summer including the caught every day. The Lonely Planet guide www.hrafnseyri.is Splace to enjoy the outdoors – go hiking, horse puffin. Highlights on the east side include book describes the town as a “cosmopolitan riding, kayaking, boating, bicycling and the Museum of Sorcery in Hólmavík and oasis”. It is the perfect place to prepare for fishing. The arctic fox can often be seen there Reykjanes peninsula which has a 50 metre a hiking adventure in Hornstrandir Nature You can take your car across the bay, in its natural environment. Hornstrandir area, geothermal hot water swimming pool supplied Reserve established in 1975, or to enjoy visiting the island of Flatey, where it seems for example, has been uninhabited except for with water from a local spring. some of the local gourmet cuisine which time has stood still in the 19th century. birds, seals and fox since 1950. It is one of the UniqueA Trip Into the Fantasy Adventure World of Breiðafjörður Tour Bay These are thrilling experiences for all most remote areas in Europe and a favourite ou watch the net being hoisted innumerable islands. Here, you can see place in which to hike. Visitors can visit by aboard, laden with seafood. Open a puffins, eider ducks, shags, kittiwakes and boat for half a day or spend several days hiking. scallopY or urchin at the table and pop it sometimes, the magnificent white-tailed into your mouth, wash it down with white eagle. The catamaran tour boat takes you A Sidetrack to Nature’s Treasures wine and you have a unique, delicious almost within touching distance of the The Westfjords of Iceland is Europe’s last experience! Undoubtedly the freshest sushi bird colonies on the towering cliffs. This is frontier. It is a geographical area in the north in the world! How often can you taste food a big, comfortable boat, with an on-board west of Iceland. Its remoteness, beauty and that fresh at home? restaurant, mind you! tranquillity is unsurpassed. Unfortunately, The West coast town of Stykkishólmur It’s a trip into a fantasy world of some foreign visitors bypass the area, as they is the base for Seatours, whose boats sail incredible basalt rock formations like are often in a hurry to complete the circular the mysterious Breiðarfjörður bay with its ‘God’s Bookshelf’ and the island of route around Iceland along the so-called Eiríksey, where Eric the Red fled after being age groups and families, especially, will Ring road. Travellers who venture off the outlawed before sailing off to Greenland. find it one of the best day’s out with so Ring road and visit the Westfjords are in for This tour earns its name and is much to see, do and experience. You’ll a pleasant surprise. highly recommended for those wanting want to remember it, too, so a visit to the Narrow fjords and valleys, steep and often Rural Atmosphere largely consists of seafood. Ísafjörður is next something different! largest souvenir shop in West Iceland in high mountain slopes and a narrow strip of The Westfjords has a population of 7,400 and to the sea by a fjord carved out by ice during Another tour you can try is Sea Angling Stykkishólmur will give you a wide choice land along the sea characterise the Westfjords. covers 8.700 km². This makes it one of the the Ice-Age which started some 3 million in the rich fishing grounds of the bay. As of memories. Mountain tops seem to have been levelled least populated parts of the world. There is years ago and ended 10.000 years ago. the seagulls look on, you bring up your –asf with a knife, as many are remarkably flat. The less than one person per square kilometre. –SV Seatours Westfjords Marketing Office dinner from the ocean’s depths. You highest mountain is nearly 1,000 metres high. Compare that to 300 people per square

can have it cooked for you in one of Smiðjustígur 3 • 340 Stykkishólmi Some of the highlights on the west side of kilometre in England and 18,534 in Macau. Aðalstræti 7 • 400 Ísafjörður Stykkishólmur’s restaurants after the tour! +354 438 1450 the Westfjords include Bjargtangar, generally Visitors travelling by road can expect to drive +354 450 4040 Cod, halibut, redfish and coalfish are the [email protected] regarded as the westernmost point in Europe; on gravel some parts of the way, something [email protected] most common catch. www.seaferdir.is Dynjandi waterfall is 100 metres high with which has become a rare experience in most www.westfjords.is seven cascades; Látrarbjarg is a 14 km long countries in Europe.

58 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 59 Cafe Riis’ main ingredients are often supplied by its owner who brings Café Riis takes you back in time to dine in style daily catches that are so fresh they are still Dine at the Danish House flopping around when the chef gets them. ld photographs pepper the walls town and is intent on preserving the cafe’s of Cafe Riis invoking its past as a ties to the past. The large wooden house tradingO post and providing insight into is still reminiscent of its life in the hands THIS IS ICELAND’S Holmavík at the turn of the 20th century. of Danish merchant Ricard Riis, the One of Café Riis’ owners was born in the restaurant’s namesake. BIGGEST TRAVEL

Farmers from the surrounding area supply meat and a Saturday buffet satisfies even the SEASON, EVER... heartiest appetites. A lower level bar caters to private parties or events year round. The cafe is open in the summer Sunday through Friday from 11:30 until 10:00 pm and stays open until 3 am on weekends. – Café Riis kb

Hafnarbraut 39 • 510 Hólmavík +354 451 3567 [email protected] www.caferiis.is

Hólmavík’sSteinhúsið - modern accommodation Harbour in a house House from another era wo doors splashed with bright reliving its former glory days in red paint announce the recent Hólmavík, the large town in the eastern restorationT of a home built in 1911, part of the West Fjords. Steinhusið is an outpost of comfort in what can be a desolate area, offering modern accommodation in the midst of a traditional fishing village. Its location near the harbour and across the street from Hólmavík’s attractions, such as the Witchcraft and Sorcery Museum, Cafe Riis, and artist’s workshop, make rooms and a separate fully-equipped Steinhusið an ideal place to rest before kitchen on the bottom. An adjoining embarking further into the Westfjords. apartment with a separate entrance The main house has five bedrooms on features a large bedroom, kitchen, and the second floor with two large living small living room. Tongue and groove painted wood walls meld with modern furnishings to invoke the past without forsaking contemporary comforts. –kb Steinhúsið ...therefore, we advise everyone flying from Keflavik International Airport to arrive three Höfðagata 1 • 510 Hólmavík hours before their flight to avoid unnecessary +354 856 1911 [email protected] tension. www.steinhusid.is

*Check-in opens at 05:00 AM 60 www.icelandictimes.com FishingHotel Malarhorn iswith a Restaurant, the Bar, Hotel, Fisherman Tour Guide and... nder the watchful eye of Drangsnes’ Malarhorn has a four bedroom, two troll woman and just a quick boat bathroom cottage for independent guests coastal winds have teardrops carved in rideU to Grimsey island, is Malarhorn: a with a fully-equipped kitchen and outdoor them, created by artist Mireyja Samper. restaurant, bar, hotel, and tour organiser grill for guests who want to do their own An annual festival, held in the middle rolled into one. The idea for Malarhorn cooking or summer barbecuing. A ten TrollingLiving Legends in Drangsnes the Westfjords of July, celebrates Drangsnes’ livelihood sprang from local fisherman Ásbjörn bedroom house with separate entrances ccording to an old Icelandic folk called Drangsnes at the far end of by tickling the palette with tastes of Magnússon’s desire to share the delights of and bathrooms in each room and a new tale, the Westfjords was nearly Steingrimsfjorður bears marks of the troll minke whale, puffin, seal, and a wide Drangsnes with visitors and find something twelve room guesthouse, completed in June, separatedA from Iceland by a relentless woman’s handiwork. Her grim profile, variety of fish from the fjord. Kids and to do for the six months of the year he’s not offers hotel-styled rooms to Malarhorn’s trio of trolls, furiously digging away at transformed into stone by the first rays of adults can try their hand at sea-angling, fishing. burgeoning selection of accommodation. the narrow strip of soil fanning off to sunlight, watches over Grimsey. while braver visitors attempt to swim Malarhorn is a showcase of Drangsnes’ Anywhere you choose to stay in Malarhorn form the Westfjords. Happy accidents have helped Drangsnes through strong currents to Grimsey. The connection to the sea with accommodation is just a few minutes walk from Drangsnes’ One troll woman competing against her both in legend and reality. A source of festival has steadily expanded over sixteen nearly in the shadow of Grimsey and fresh pool. conspirators realised that her monumental geothermal water was discovered when years of celebration and has grown to fish served up daily at its restaurant which Magnússon is also the only Drangsnes task would not be accomplished and someone forgot to shut off the water host thousands of people. The festival is specialises in food from the area, like resident who offers a tour of Grimsey, which their lunch. This tour’s flexibility allows run entirely by volunteers who pour into lumpfish served with seal fat. If seafood has the largest concentration of puffins in guests to arrange for more time, as long as Drangsnes to help the 65 townspeople isn’t to your liking, then Icelandic meat the world with 300,000 individuals and the group numbers three or more. Guests prepare to receive guests. soup and lamb from nearby farms provide 80,000 nesting pairs on a few kilometres of who want a private fishing lesson from Drangsnes has a long relationship with a tasty alternative. In good weather, the land. The tour takes three hours, dropping Magnússon can arrange for the enthusiastic volunteers who have travelled to help not restaurant has a roomy balcony overlooking guests on the island for an hour’s hike before fisherman to instruct them using his decades only with the festival, but with various Steingrímsfjord, where your fish was caught. picking them up to fish the fjord and catch of knowledge and experience. projects such as building the community Grimsey island used to be a haven for centre. “Cooperation is an important fishermen trawling the area. Now, its part of life here,” says Jenny Jensdóttir, alluring animal life and role in Icelandic “without it we couldn’t survive.” folk lore distinguishes it. Tours to Grimsey Too bad the legendary trolls were begin on June 20th and run until August too busy to realize this. Perhaps if they 15th, possibly longer if the weather is had adopted the spirit of Drangsnes’ favourable. Guests at Hotel Malarhorn residents, they would be floating on receive a discount on tours around the island an island called Westfjords rather than and can get more information about the folk slammed the spade of her shovel down in a supply feeding into the fish factory. sitting in stony silence. tales from the family who run the hotel. rage, breaking off a chunk of land with her When the town furiously sought water –kb –kb Kaldrananeshreppur Malarhorn ox on it, thus forming Grimsey, the small by boring holes, they struck geothermal island near Drangsnes and home to the gold: a hotwater source that now heats the Holtagata • 520 Drangsnes Malarhorn • 520 Drangsnes world’s most concentrated puffin colony. entire village and provides free hot tubs +354 451 3277 +354 451 3237 Though the trolls were unsuccessful on the beach from where visitors watch [email protected] [email protected] in breaking off the Westfjords, the birdlife, seals, and occasionally whales. www.drangsnes.is www.malarhorn.is choppy coastline of a tiny fishing village Large stones sheltering them from strong

62 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 63 sea angling tour and a 2 hour ‘midnight cruise’ which starts at Who’sSeal watching Watchingfrom the sea Whom? 23:00. (from 10th June to 20th July only) treat for children and adults alike, this and curious by nature, the seals often A few surprising facts... summer it will be possible to take an swim quite close to the boat for a better With puffins and whales grabbing many unforgettableA seal watching tour with Seal look at you! Then it is a question of who headlines in recent years, it may come as rather Watching ehf. From the decks of their most is watching whom? a surprise to find that Icelandic coasts are home recent acquisition, the Brimill, you will get Seal watching tours are offered twice- to about 12,000 Common seals and 4,000 OPEN a chance to observe seals at one of the very daily from June through August at 10:00 Grey seals—the two native seal species that best seal watching locations in Iceland, and 13:00. Sightings ranging anywhere are thought to rarely leave the Icelandic shelf. Miðfjörður fjord, along the Vatnsnes from 12 to 95 seals are possible and, as The Common seal, being the more outgoing 24 HOURS Peninsula. the boat approaches, the captain will and curious of the two species, congregates in Seals are one of the star attractions of turn off the engines, getting you within small groups on skerries and rocky beaches and in Hagkaup Skeifan aqua-parks and zoos around the world about 45 metres of the seals, much closer is more easily spotted than the shyer Grey seal. with their graceful swimming and cute than is possible on land. Puffins, as well Solitary vagrants such as Harp seals, Ringed antics. It’s one thing, however, to see as other migratory birds, inhabit the seals and Hooded seals are sometimes seen & Garðabær them in captivity and quite another to area every summer and are also great to during the winter, while Bearded seals and Welcome to the only see them in their natural habitat. Playful watch. Other tours on offer are a 3 hour Walruses are very rare. 24 hour Hypermarket in Iceland

(Information courtesy of the Icelandic Ministry of Hagkaup is the only Hypermarket in Iceland. We offer Fisheries and Agriculture) One stop shop the widest range of merchandise in Iceland & our Sealwatching ehf is located in the small village of Hvammastangi, on Miðfjörðurfjord, with: locations in Skeifan & Garðabær are open 24 hours. on the west side of Vatnsnes Peninsula. The • Groceries village is easily accessible, just 7 km off the main • Clothing ring road, about half way between Reykjavik and Akureyri. • Shoes –EMV • Toys Selasigling • Homeware Höfðabraut 13 • 530 Hvammstangi • CD’s, DVD’s +354 897 9900 • Electronics [email protected] one stop shop www.sealwatching.is and more...

64 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 65 his lovely wife, Sigrún, who serve a superb is an ancient volcanic plug and used by seafood soup, a fresh salad from their own Vikings as a fortress. Because of its natural garden and a wonderfully not-too-sweet skyr amphitheatre shape and good acoustics, it cheese cake served with coffee. has been used for music concerts during the After lunch we’re off again, travelling summer in recent years. around the tip of the peninsula to the I would love to linger a while longer in eastern flank, where the views to the east- this little-visited corner of the country but it north-east are magnificent. Below us sits has been a long and exciting day and its time Taking the Time to the 15 metre-high Hvítserkur rock, which to begin our journey back to Reykjavik. In sometimes looks very much like a dragon my mind I cannot help but think what so drinking peacefully from the sea. Our many others before me have no doubt also ExperienceExploring the Route of Pearls with Time Tours Iceland final stop is the Borgarvirki Crater which said, ‘I’ll be back!’ –emv s is often the case, biggest does not First things first...the weather report creature. A fascinating documentary (in necessarily mean best and this is The weather was typically Icelandic, English) about seals in Iceland plays in Route of Pearls Geitafell alsoA true when it comes to touring Iceland. exciting! We saw it all that day, sunshine and the basement and can fill you in on many 5 1 Hvammstangi / Town Seal Time Tours is a small and friendly family- clouds, rain and wind, misty mountain tops cool details that you might otherwise have Centre and old Church Vatnsnesi • 530 Hvammstangi GEITAFELL Kirkjuhvammskirkja run company that goes out of its way to help and more wind. What Icelanders call the missed. 4 Hamarsrétt / Fold you get the most out of your stay in Iceland ‘real Icelandic weather,’ which is the most As we travel north along the west side 7 2 +354 861 2503 3 [email protected] and delivers quality, informative tours at authentic way to see Iceland. of the peninsula, steep undulating grassy 3 Seal Colony reasonable rates. slopes lead down to the sea and we stop to www.geitafell.is 4 Illugastaðir / Seal Colony Time Tours offers all the major day tours Where’s that? inspect an empty ‘réttir’ or sheep round-up 8 from Reykjavik such as the Golden Circle, If you have ever driven to Akureyri, pen that lies just a few metres from the sea. 2 Here you can taste delicious soups and other seafood gourmets, served with GEITAFELL - Seafood Restaurant locally grown salads and homemade bread. The fish is caught only from local the South Coast and Jökulsárlón Glacial you have will have passed the turn-off to Further along, with binoculars in hand, we waters and you can be sure of getting only the best possible quality. Lagoon, the Blue Lagoon and Snæfellsnes Vatnsnes without even realising it. At 190 keep a sharp look-out for seals lying along Tours. But this innovative company has km from Reykjavik, it lies about half way the shoreline. At Illugastaðir Farm we get 6 Tjörn Hvítserkur recently added a new tour to its roster, from Reykjavik to Akureyri, making it ideal out of the minibus and walk down to the 9 7 Time Tours known as ‘The Seal Route’ of the Vatnsnes for day tours. water’s edge where we have a great clear view 10 8 Vesturhópshólar

Peninsula. First stop, the main service town in of a large seal colony resting on the skerries 9 Borgarvirki / Crater Borgarholtsbraut 42 • 200 Kopavogur The fact that no other tour company in the area, Hvammstangi. Here we pop in and beaches just offshore. Known for their 10 Breiðabólsstaður Iceland, that I know of at least, offers this for a visit to the Seal Centre (Selasetur). innate curiosity, seals will often swim quite 1 +354 578 7111 11 Gauksmýrartjörn tour was enough incentive for me, and Via its various exhibits, cultural displays, close to shore so that they can get a good - Fuglaskoðun / Birdwatching [email protected] exploring every nook and cranny of Iceland documentaries and even seal folklore, the look at you. 12 Víðidalstunga www.timi.is is something that I never tire of. So when I Seal Centre offers a non-partisan view We break for lunch at Geitafell Farm with 12 11 13 Kolugljúfur was offered the chance to go on the maiden of seals in Iceland, their role in Icelandic its curious round tower which was used Gorge of Kola the Troll Time Tours offer a variety of ground services for individuals, couples, voyage of Time Tours’ Vatnsnes Peninsula history and present-day sustainability issues to store ‘sour’ hay in the old days. We are 13 families or groups. A variety of day tours is offered for individuals and custom designed holidays for larger groups and families. Tour, I didn’t hesitate. surrounding this sometimes controversial warmly greeted by hosts Róbert Jón Jack and

66 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 67 Europe’sFive Years from Fish S oupOnly to Soft Leather Fish Tannery LeatherFabulous Fish Creations fromfrom Sútarinn’s the Tannery Sea une 10th marked the official opening of tanneries that were donated by Glaumbaer, potted leopard print leather in turquoise cow or sheep leather with its variety of Still a skeptic? Then come take a look at Sútarinn, the last remaining Icelandic which collaborates in projects to preserve and chartreuse leaps from glossy patterns, which change according to the Sútarinn, Atlantic Leather’s economuseum tanneryJ and now economuseum. The Skagafjörður’s history. Smagazine pages. But these daring spots species of fish. Wolf fish sports spots, in Sauðarkrókur. Guests can take a tour to museum guides guests through the tanning Sútarinn uses fish skin, which would come from wolf fish tanned at Sútarinn, perch has rough and raw scales, while see the process firsthand and walk away with process from stripping the fat off translucent otherwise be thrown away. Most of its fish Iceland’s only tannery. Shocking as it may salmon leather is thin and moulds to fit any some of the latest fish leather fashions. fish skins to adding finishing details to dried skins come from a factory in Dalvik, a seem, fish is the latest trend in leather and contour. Though skins are dyed and treated skins. The idea to start a museum came when town an hour away. The majority of skins has begun to climb its way from the bottom visitors to the town of Sauðarkrókur got are exported, but some Icelandic designers of the sea to the top fashion world. wind that Europe’s only fish leather tannery have decided to work with the new material. Though the idea for using fish leather was operating nearby. Last year, Sútarinn A shop in Sútarinn features products from is not novel, the process has been refined. received between four and five thousand Icelandic designers and fish skins themselves Fish leather shoes were worn in Iceland visitors. It was then that they had to decide for purchase. Traditional double hundreds of years ago, but their quality whether to open their doors completely or face sheepskins, calf skins, was questionable. A popular joke was to ask firmly shut the tannery to guests. and ostrich skins are also how many fish leather shoes it took to get to enhance their pattern, they are simply a processed at the tannery. from one place to another. This dilemma soft and scentless version of nature’s original A Crazy Invention was solved by the inventive Atlantic Leather design. All chemicals used in the tanning Aided by IMPRA, a branch of the Icelandic Five years later, they had developed a process company, which and dyeing process are EU approved. Innovation Centre committed to aiding and created Atlantic Leather. By 2000, their takes fish skin companies starting new projects and work fish leather had the same softness as leather byproducts Out of Weakness, Made Strong developed by entrepreneurs and inventors, from cows and no residual smell; the process from Dalvík, in The questions in everyone’s minds revolve Sútarinn has grown from an experiment in was perfected and Sútarinn remained the North Iceland around the quality and durability of fish the inventive search for new materials into only tannery left in Iceland. and turns them leather. Fish leather is surprisingly strong, a rapidly developing for-profit museum. into skins that even stronger than other kinds of leather While other tanneries struggled to compete A Rare View of Tanning can be made into because it has cross-hatched fibres rather with each other, Sútarinn opted for a new Sútarinn’s determination has made it what shoes, bags, clothes than fibres that run in only one direction. approach and began working with fish skins it is today and is part of the reason for –kb and furniture. Despite the normally pungent smell of –kb Sútarinn Atlantic Leather in 1989. the econo-museum, which gives visitors a fish, the treatment eliminates any smell “People thought that we were crazy in rare view of tanning from start to finish. so that few people can even recognise the Borgarmýri 5 • 550 Sauðárkrókur From Waste to Haute Couture Borgarmýri 5 • 550 Sauðárkrókur those early years,” grins Gunnsteinn, owner Sútarinn combines their tannery tour with +354 512 8025 Couture clothing designers like Alexander difference between fish and other types of +354 453 59 10 of both companies working at Sútarinn: a historical overview of tanning in Iceland. [email protected] Wang, Sigerson & Morrison and Helmut leather. Better yet, fish leather is a byproduct [email protected] Atlantic Leather and Loðskinn. “All we had Sútarinn has tools used in tanning, early www.sutarinn.is Lang have all bought skins from Atlantic of food processing so it creates value from www.atlanticleather.is at first was thousands of litres of fish soup.” photographs, and clothes produced from old Leather. Fish leather trumps more mundane something otherwise thrown away.

68 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 69 that, “even evil needs a place to live”. After pausing for a moment, the bishop agreed to A Beach Guesthouse and a Birdwatcher’s Paradise leave one part of the island unblessed so that A journey back in time – with a most treasured four-legged animal The Pearl of Drangey evil spirits had somewhere to reside. The Most Valuable Servant n inspiring twenty minute drive up Viggo and his son, Helgi Rafn, run the It was on the island that Grettir the nown worldwide for its famous five a gravel road from Sauðárkrókur on guesthouse together today. Viggo learned its Strong took sanctuary for 3 years in the gaits, remarkable strength–in spite RouteA 748, brings you to Reykir, an isolated secrets from his father, who is from Reykir 11th century after being made an outlaw, as ofK its relatively humble size–and mild guesthouse in a spectacularly beautiful and built up its travel services. His father described in Grettir’s saga. temperament, the Icelandic horse is quickly spot. From here, there are many hiking used to take visitors out on his boat for a becoming a significant export product and possibilities, including a hike up Tindastóll, tour of Drangey, where puffins and many Relax in the Pools and Guesthouse trademark for this little country. But long the mountain that towers over Reykir, to the other birds mingle amongst the craggy Heading back to the guesthouse, visitors will before it became sought-after outside the magical stone in the lake. cliffs; a tradition that Viggo and Helgi Rafn find two natural hot pools called Grettislaug, coasts of Iceland, the nationals recognised continue with 3-hour, guided boat trips, an named after Grettir. Fed from a hot spring, its wonderful characteristics and have unmissable addition to your holiday. they are 38°C, so a dip in the pool can commonly referred to it through the ages quickly take away chills from the wind or as ‘the farmer’s most valuable servant’. Drangey: The Food Chest soothe tired feet after a day’s hiking. Next Considering the importance of the horse in Drangey rises steeply out of the fjord 180 to the hot pot is a small pond where horned the often harsh surroundings and difficult metres high. Its flat top is covered with grass grebes, small red-headed birds that build conditions Icelanders have had to survive in, and, with its steep nesting cliffs, is one of the floating nests, usually swim. The horned it is not surprising to find an entire museum most famous birdwatching sites in Iceland. grebe is relatively scarce worldwide, but is dedicated to it. The Icelandic Horse In times past, when famine was over the plentiful in northern Iceland. Following History Centre at Hólar in Hjaltadalur is a guided through the exhibition and thereby The centre is, at its core, an educational country, Drangey was called ‘Skagafjörður’s Viggo’s directions, down the beach, past captivating museum that both educates and given the opportunity to ask questions institution for research and communication Food Chest’. So many different varieties of driftwood and over rocks, small, glittering entertains its visitors. and chat. The exhibition is actually set of knowledge about the Icelandic horse birds are to be found there that today it is pebbles can be found littering the beach The museum, rightly situated in in an old barn and guests are allowed to and as such, accepts donations from those truly a birdwatcher’s paradise. under the cliffs where crashing waves have Skagafjörður, a region famous for its superb touch all the objects. In addition, there is interested in supporting their work. smoothed them. Looking up, the island of breeding farms that continuously produce plenty of reading material, film footage and The Icelandic Horse History Centre A Place of Evil Spirits and Outlaws Drangey appears close enough to reach horses of great excellence, focuses on photographs to make the experience as vivid Hólum í Hjaltadal Sauðárkrókur Locals used to believe that evil creatures out and touch. communicating how closely intertwined the as possible. Guests also get to visit a nearby lived on the island because many men –kb Icelandic horse is with the nation’s history. It barn to meet the Icelandic horse ‘in person’ –kb Drangeyjarferðir Icelandic Horse History Centre plunged to their deaths trying to gather gives an animated and interesting look not and can even mail a letter the way people

eggs and hunt the birds that lived there. Fellstúni 1 • 550 Sauðárkróki only into the past but also into the life of the did when horses were used by postmen. You Hólar í Hjaltadal • 551 Sauðárkróki According to legend, one of the bishops at +354 821 0090 common workman and the livelihood of the write the letter with a feather pen and are +354 455 6345 Hólar, Guðmundur the Good, came to bless [email protected] people. In the spirit of traditional Icelandic taught to fold it in the custom of old. You [email protected] the island and encountered an evil spirit. www.drangeyjarferdir.is hospitality, the museum places much then stamp it with the centre’s seal and send www.sogusetur.is When confronted, the spirit mournfully said emphasis on personal service. Visitors are it off to your loved ones.

70 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 71 Tudor furniture, and a private bathroom. Deluxe rooms feature added comforts such as a DVD player and MakeIceland’s Oldest Friends Hotel Takes You into a BygoneHistory Era small sitting area. Two separate summer arlene Dietrich and Iceland’s homes are available for families or friends current president have something to rent. inM common. Both have stayed at Hotel Tindastóll, Iceland’s oldest hotel. Built Meet in a Relaxing Atmosphere in 1884 and restored in 2000, Hotel On Hotel Tindastóll’s ground floor is an old fashioned tavern with ample room for guests to relax with a drink. A hot tub, made with stones found on the shores of Skagafjörður with water set at 39°C, can be accessed from either the tavern or dining room. Hotel Tindastóll serves a buffet breakfast each day at a long dining room table, encouraging a friendly atmosphere where guests can get to know their host as well as their fellow guests.

– Tindastóll has the look and feel of its Hótel Tindastóll KB past with much of the original wood still intact and the decor made to match. Lindargata 3 • 550 Sauðárkrókur +354 453 5002 Sauðárkrókur’sÓlafshús Restaurant Feeds the Town Kitchen Sleep in an Icelander’s Room [email protected] www.hoteltindastoll.com Ten rooms named after prominent or over a decade, Ólafshús has filled Kaffi Krókur–the Coffeehouse and Pub Icelanders have double beds, wardrobes, an important niche in Sauðárkrókur, Guests who prefer a casual café can aF large town in northern Iceland with a cross the street to Kaffi Krókur which, population of 2,500. The restaurant has much like Ólafshús, is a jack of all trades become known as ‘the town kitchen’ because with an original intent far different Hólar Keeps History Alive of its central location, just five minutes walk from its current one. Kaffi Krókur is a Light in the North from any accommodation. “We have a great coffeehouse and restaurant that turns ólar’s small population belies its Hólar church has featured prominently cooperation with the hotels in town, and they into a lively pub that often features live importance in Icelandic history. in its history and traces its ancestry to choose to send their guests here,” explains music on the weekend. Kaffi Krókur was WithH nine centuries of history, it would 1106. The current church, built in 1763, Kristín Magnúsdóttir, a part-owner in her the sheriff’s home until 1912, changing need days to delve into its past and its houses relics from its illustrious past. family’s business, “It seems a bit strange to hands and names until it became a café achievements. Not only was Iceland’s Small, fully equipped cottages people who visit, but we have had only good and pub in 1994. first printing press brought to Hólar, but and rooms are available to rent year reviews from guests.” Both Ólafshús and Kaffi Krókur Christianity’s early efforts at instilling a round and can house 100 people in Once the workshop and home of saddle can cater larger events and recently strong educational spirit persist in this small the summer. A campsite is serenaded maker Ólafur Jónsson, the house has hosted the afterparty for the opening of university of about 250 students and the by a chorus of birdsong, sheltered by undergone several name changes in the past Sútarinn museum, a fish leather tannery bishop’s seat of North Iceland. trees protecting guests from the chilly winds that often blow in Iceland. Undir century. Once a pharmacy, then a bank, in Sauðárkrókur. Byrdunni, a restaurant meaning ‘Under and finally a restaurant, Ólafshús has finally Ólafshús has seats for sixty guests in the Mountain’, caters a summer buffet settled into its role as the town’s kitchen. its main restaurant with a room for small at each meal and local specialities like “I barely use my kitchen at home anymore meetings on the second floor and two Hólableikja, made from locally-caught because I have one here,” remarked one banquet halls for larger events. arctic char. enthusiastic guest. Kaffi Krókur is perfect for smaller A geothermal outdoor pool next to the Reasonable prices and a versatile menu meetings and its café atmosphere is well- restaurant provides a restful warm soak keep customers coming back to Ólafshús, suited for informal groups. after dining. where you can get a full meal with ingredients –kb/Asf from Skagafjörður’s local food chest, sit down –KB Hólar Ólafshús for a juicy burger, or get a pizza delivered,

Hólar • 551 Sauðárkróki depending on your mood. Salad, topped with Aðalgata 15 • 550 Sauðárkrókur +354 455 6333 smoked puffin, followed by marinated lamb +354 453 6454 [email protected] are some of the chef’s signature dishes. Lighter [email protected] www.holar.is appetites are appeased by the soup and salad www.olafshus.is bar offered until the evening.

72 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 73 bearing the Skagafjörður a breakfast buffet. Hotel food chest label and the list of inventive Varmahlíð is ideal for conferences and Skagafjörður - a Mecca for Food, Horses and Recreation menu items is always rowing. Hotel Varmahlíð - from Dream to Reality special occasions with the restaurant For the Adventurous A Dream Come True catering to the unique needs of each group rom the historical importance of well-marked, with many routes suitable for Recreation Mecca nce there was a little girl who lived Filled from the Food Chest and the hotel comfortably sleeping almost Hólar to the isolated beauty of Reykir, less experienced hikers. Avid bird watchers Museums like Glaumbaer and Hofsós’ next to a big, beautiful hotel. She The dining room that Svanhildur once forty people. theF district of Skagafjörður, located can get guided tours of the best places Emigration Centre delve deeper into watchedO the people come and go from Hotel peered into as a girl now serves dishes in northern Iceland, offers a complete Varmahlíð in awe. One day, she sneaked using game or livestock brought in by her package of culture and natural beauty. over to the post office with some friends husband and brother-in-law. Smoked goose Known as the epicentre of Icelandic horse and pretended to mail a letter so that she carpaccio, wrapped around small scoops of breeding, this district has developed into a could get a closer look. Peering through date chutney arranged on a bed of lettuce well-rounded destination for tourists and, the window, she saw a huge dining room grown at a nearby greenhouse, piques salty like the horses found in this area, boasts and people happily eating their meals and and sweet taste buds. Warm rhubarb cake an incomparable spirit not seen in any celebrating a special occasion. “Someday,” she with vanilla ice cream and mango rhubarb other part of Iceland. promised herself, “this place will be mine.”

Owning the Dream The girl, Svanhildur Pálsdóttir, has now grown into the woman who owns and manages the hotel. “I always saw the potential for transformation,” Svanhildur to spot rare birds like recalls, smiling at her good fortune. “I the horned grebe, which grew up just across the street and dreamt of sports a red head and making this hotel my own.” Svanhildur has builds floating nests near worked hard to transform Hotel Varmahlíð shorelines. into her own, down to the minute details such as which colour of flower to place on The Food Chest for chefs and diners Iceland’s past as new traditions are forged the table. Ingredients gathered from the area by pioneering microbreweries and a tannery are incorporated into the local cuisine producing fish leather. Recreation has also in the Skagafjörður Food Chest. The expanded in recent years with new golf concept focuses on the abundance of courses, swimming pools, and boat trips game, meat, dairy, vegetables, and fruit popping up everywhere. Horse shows, riding found in the region and encourages chefs tours, and visits to breeding farms remain a to experiment with recipes backbone to the region, with thousands of using these ingredients horse lovers flocking in each year. exclusively. Several Skagafjörður entices more adventurous Forested by birch and pine trees, the gourmet restaurants in travellers with canyon rafting trips and region hosts many different species of birds the area have dishes excursions into the highlands. Boats explore whose sweet summer songs are heard while islands in the fjord that remain relatively hiking one of its many winding untouched by people. Mountains rise up An Enchanting Vision for All woodland paths. to shelter towns built in their valleys and Svanhildur’s enthusiasm and knowledge Skagafjörður’s experienced hikers can try trekking up steep of the area aids guests in discovering hiking trails are inclines. Whatever your desire its certain that hiking paths that lie just up the sloping Skagafjörður will fulfill it. hills surrounding Hotel Varmahlíð. Tree- –kb chutney ends the meal with a melding covered paths provide pleasant hiking on of local and exotic. The menu belongs to windy days, while short, yet rewarding Skagafjörður’s food chest, an effort by walks are said to reveal nine churches restaurants to use food that is around them standing tall on Skagafjörður’s horizon rather than looking far from home. Summer on a clear day and will enchant visitors dishes will focus on shrimp, cod, local to Hotel Varmahlíð, just as it enchanted cheese and/or lamb. its owner years ago. –KB Varmahlíð Tourist information Hotel Varmahlíð Three-Star Comfort 560 Varmahlíð Each of the nineteen rooms at Hotel 560 Varmahlíð +354 455 6161 Varmahlíð has an en suite bathroom, +354 453 8170 [email protected] television, alarm clock, and hair dryer. Its [email protected] www.visitskagafjordur.is three-star rating ensures that nothing will www. hotelvarmahlid.is be lacking and all overnight stays include

74 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 75 an insight into what life was like in this pass the time. Bonds grew “The two women that era. Though a wealthy home, the people strong as families toughened up over several opened this café didn’t want the past to fade who lived at Glaumbaer still had to winters, labouring for their livelihoods. To Grandmother’s House We Go away, so they decided to share people’s everyday LivingGlaumbaer’s Living Inside Museum produce all of their own food and clothing At small country farms, connections Cake and Coffee at Áskaffi in Glaumbær lives. Otherwise these items would stay stuffed remarkably well preserved turf house by hand and unlike today, wealth did not to the outside world and supplies were teaming tea or coffee is an essential part of in trunks or banished to people’s attics,” and farm called Glaumbaer still imply ease in the remote countryside. relatively limited. People were forced to Icelandic culture. Before cafés, the strong explains Herdís. Rooms are packed with relics withstandsA Iceland’s harsh weather after A dark and narrow corridor with side use anything that came their way to create Saroma of coffee brewing and freshly baked cakes of domestic life from the nineteenth until the three centuries of punishment. Glaumbaer, rooms for storage and food preparation the tools necessary for daily life. The results came from grandmothers’ kitchens as they middle of the twentieth century, careworn a fully intact eighteenth- and nineteenth- winds up in the large room known as the of this inventiveness are placed around served guests who stopped by. A welcoming heirlooms stored in chests carved from century farmhouse near Varmahlíð, just baðstofa, centre of the household’s domestic Glaumbaer in the context of their purpose. cup of coffee along with a slice of cake, filled driftwood open to reveal prized possessions with rhubarb jam, was given to every visitor from another time: dolls, sewing kits, pipes, and who took the trouble of travelling the distance countless photos housed in handmade frames. between farms to visit friends or relatives. Áskaffi continues this tradition by opening the doors to a world seen by few visitors, an Icelandic grandmother’s cosy kitchen.

off the Ring Road, presents life in rural life and bedroom for the entire family. Dark Jaw bones from sheep and horses were Iceland with everything left as though nights were spent shuttered away in this turned into tools found in the badstofa. Waitresses in period costumes bustle from a The progression from open hearth to coal awaiting the return of the family that once room where the family huddled together Driftwood that washed ashore was carved tea room with tables covered in floral patterns and finally electric stove marks Iceland’s lived there. Walking through restored to knit their winter clothes or sometimes into storage chests, bowls, and spoons. and checkered table clothes to fetch cakes made modernisation. By the 1950’s, modernisation rooms of this well-to-do farmhouse gives to play games like chess or backgammon to Even Glaumbaer’s turf construction was an from recipes passed down for generations. “I was nearly complete and Iceland had most of ingenious way around using wood, which have, at most, twelve recipes for cakes. It’s a huge the conveniences enjoyed in other countries, was precious and in short supply at the time decision to add anything because we want to a testament to its self determination following the farm was built. keep the food simple, like it was in the old days,” independence. No kitchen was complete The museum at Glaumbaer was started at says Herdís, manager and the woman behind without coffee, a precious commodity the request of residents around Skagafjörður the scrumptious cakes and coffee. Unlike other throughout several eras. Yet, because beans to preserve part of their past. The farm shows tearooms, this one picks nostalgia over propriety were in short supply, various additives, such how much people can do with limited with sheepskin coverings, family photos, and as chicory, were used to stretch out the beans resources and the creativity that emerges life-size mannequins in the national costume. until a new shipment arrived. Fortunately in tough circumstances. Glaumbaer today there is no shortage of coffee beans to stands as a reminder to Icelanders’ past limit the quality of Áskaffi’s. “The one thing and shows its visitors how well they I’ve changed since the nineteenth century is survived and thrived in Iceland’s harsh the additives in the coffee, but I think that environment. all Icelandic grandmothers would approve,” chuckles Herdís. –emv/amb –kb Glaumbær Áskaffi

Glaumbær • 551 Sauðárkrókur Glaumbær • 551 Varmahlíð +354 453 6173 +354 453 8855 [email protected] [email protected] www.skagafjordur.is www.askaffi.is

76 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 77 pool is built into the land, with grass covering a roof that you can walk From Sunnuberg Guesthouse, the Town is Easily Accessible over and comfortably stand on to see the A Comfortable Place to Base area around it. arrive in Hofsós, where fog has just Guesthouse is a welcome sight. It has four descended, as Icelandic weather changes double rooms and one single room, all with soI quickly, shrouding the town with an aura en suite bathrooms, a shared living room of mystery. It can seem daunting. Sunnuberg that has a small refrigerator to store snacks, and a microwave for a quick bite to eat. A short walk from the guesthouse is the new pool designed by Sigríður Sigþórsdóttir, the same architect who designed the Blue disasters, such as earthquakes and volcanic Lagoon. It opened just over a year ago and eruptions, led to entire villages fleeing the attracts many visitors to the small town. The The Icelandic Emigration Centre Links Past and Present fallout and resettling in countries where After a wonderful night’s sleep, a morning Far From Home nature’s violent forces were less volatile. coffee and breakfast, the fog has lifted, the mmigration is often viewed from an States. It is estimated that the equivalent sun is out again and I’m off to discover the outside perspective, which follows of another Iceland, 300,000 people with The Journey Icelandic Emigration Centre or take a dip in immigrants’I lives as they become Icelandic heritage, live scattered across Each room in the Emigration Centre the pool overlooking the fjord. It’s good to established once arriving in a new country, North America. tracks different stages of the emigrants’ have the guesthouse as my base as I explore rather than seeing the reasons for leaving the town and its many interesting places. their homeland. Pioneering Icelanders left for faraway lands in pursuit of prosperity – Sunnuberg KB or a new adventure. The Icelandic Emigration Centre in Hofsós tells stories

Suðurbraut 8 • 565 Hofsós of emigration from Iceland during its +354 893 0220 height from 1870 until 1914. [email protected] www.hofsos.is Poignant Mail The voices invoked through records and letters mailed back home tell the perils of life in a new land. Most fared well with easily acquired land parcelled out to any newcomers, but some saw all of their ADelicious Café Food, Delightful in the Views Danishat Sólvík in Hofsós Era children perish in lands where they lacked n a beautifully restored 19th century Renovated History stronger links like those left behind in wooden building, next door to the Hofsós is one of the oldest trading Iceland. Most of the immigrants settled in Poverty and Class journey from Iceland. Following the IcelandicI Emigration Centre in Hofsós, is centres in Iceland. In the oldest part North America, setting up communities Poverty prompted mass emigration reasons for departure are rooms recreated the restaurant and café Sólvík. of the village surrounding the harbour, throughout parts of Canada and the United from Iceland, with people often looking to resemble the hold of a ship that took many of the houses have been recently to escape conditions close to feudal the Icelanders to their new homes. renovated, giving the old village back servitude. Numerous people had no land Initially, ships were packed with people, the feel of the trading centre of bygone and worked for large farms owned by the sleeping head to toe in cramped quarters days. Sólvík used to be the home of the wealthier classes. The emigrants made up that they frequently shared with animals. agent for the Danish monopoly and was approximately one quarter of the entire The final section of the museum displays standing previously in Grafarós, which population and their difficult lives made photos and letters written by Icelanders was a trading centre from 1835-1915. It leaving an easier decision. Starting out fresh detailing their lives in new countries. was moved in parts to Hofsós and erected in countries where land was plentiful and in it’s current location in 1920. class distinctions negligible allowed poor Finding Family emigrants a chance to free themselves from People of Icelandic descent can even Fresh Food at its Best she has selected on the menu are simply her the rigid social mores of Iceland’s lower trace their heritage by talking to What a treat, to sit on its terrace, clients’ most popular courses for the past classes. museum staff who have access to many overlooking the charming harbour of years. The restaurant is open every day, all genealogical records from Iceland and Hofsós, enjoying the wonderful cuisine day long, offering a full menu. Vagaries of Nature settlement areas in North America. of Dagmar Ásdís Þorvaldsdóttir; a –kb The Icelandic Emigration Centre links harsh –kb Sólvík Emigration Centre freshly caught cod and trout, mountain winters with heavy pack ice that ruined

lamb from Skagafjörður, chicken fillet, Vesturfarasetrið • 565 Hofsós farms and diminished fish stocks to spikes Vesturfarasetrið • 565 Hofsós hamburger, lobster, soup and bread or +354 453 7930 in migration during the following years. +354 453 7935 even just a coffee and cake. [email protected] Famine was always a threat, as the weather [email protected] Dagmar, who has been running Sólvík www.hofsos.is often caused living conditions to teeter on www.hofsos.is for about 10 years, claims that the courses the brink of being uninhabitable. Natural

78 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 79 If the meal has slowed your desire to leave, you can retreat to the guesthouse and later try out nine holes of golf. GourmetLónkot’s Masterful Menu Flair If a breakfast of homemade muesli, toast with mall violets, dotting the path leading to Lónkot, a gourmet restaurant twelve Skilometres from Hofsós, later appear on your plate, blended into a menu that changes with the availability of ingredients. There is

homemade rhubarb jam, and freshly squeezed blueberry is enough to make you stay the night then you can bask in the warmth of an outdoor patio or seek out warmth in an indoor jacuzzi exclusively for overnight guests. – no fixed menu at Lónkot, but an inventive Lónkot kb mother and daughter prepare specialities,

such as carrot ginger soup and puffin breast Lónkoti • 566 Hofsósi marinated in a tangy berry sauce, as the +354 453 7432 main dish of mountain lamb braised with [email protected] herbs cooks slowly and a sorbet of skyr and www.lonkot.com berries freezes. Iceland Tour Services

We are a small fully licensed family bus and Travel agency in Iceland. Our fleet is of the highest quality and includes buses of all types and sizes. We provide first class services to groups, individuals and travel agencies that need ground transportation or guided tours to any location in Iceland. Quick transfer from or to the airport, we can also arrange for short or long sightseeing trips in and around Reykjavik.

Please feel free to contact us for more information via email or phone. Best regards Time tours and Time travel / [email protected] / www.timetours.is Tel: +354 578 7111 / Mobil: +354 869 7111

80 www.icelandictimes.com FjallabyggðA Tale of Two Villages It’s a happy tale of how two villages, residents of the two communities voted The Rise and Fall of Iceland’s Herring important role in the everyday lives of reasonable prices and using the best local waters of the Arctic Sea, where the chance to separated by huge mountain ranges to merge into one municipality, under the Boom Icelanders which continues to this day. ingredients, as much as possible. Right spot various whale species is optimal. were joined together. Miles and miles of name of Fjallabyggð. The tunnel, or shall we Possibly one of the best, if not the best The museum is located in one of the oldest next door, the Red House Café & Bar has intimidating and bold-faced mountain say, tunnels, as there are two of them, are museum of its kind in Iceland, Siglufjörður’s houses in Siglufjördur, where the 19th just opened and is the place to enjoy light Natural History Museum in Ólafsfjörður peaks, stretch out as far as the eye can 11 km in combined length and already have Herring Era Museum has a creative and century Rev. Bjarni Thorsteinsson lived lunches, a glass of wine, and live music. A fascinating place for adults and children see, standing between Siglufjörður and had an huge impact on residents of the now- entertaining way of bringing the subject of from 1888-98. Bjarni was an avid collector Finally, the Blue House, also on the marina, alike, birds are the primary focus in the Ólafsfjörður, two small fishing villages on unified villages. The official opening of the herring to life. The museum was awarded the of Icelandic folk music, a talented composer will serve as a gallery hosting the works of museum. However, there are several other the very northern peninsula of Tröllaskagi, tunnels took place in October 2010. Micheletti Award for the best new industrial and is considered by many to be the ‘father local artists. (www.raudka.is) stuffed animals such as goat, polar bear, in North Iceland. Héðinsfjörður is between the villages. It museum in Europe in 2004. Spread out of Siglufjörður’. Since 2006, the Folk Music arctic foxes, along with fishes and crabs. Although it is only 17 km as the crow is a beautiful area for hiking groups. There over several buildings, the exhibits revisit Centre in Siglufjörður has organised a Folk Poetry Centre flies between the villages, the geography are many hiking trails from Héðinsfjörður Iceland’s golden age of herring that lasted Music Academy to coincide with the Folk The Poetry Centre opens in Siglufjörður on of the area dictates a 62 km detour to Ólafsfjörður and Siglufjörður. from 1867 to 1968 and had an enormous Music Festival held there in the beginning 8th July this summer where you can read Festivals to be held in 2011 include: around the mountains in summer and a Life in Tröllaskagi has been forever impact on Icelandic society and economy. of July every year. poems by major Icelandic poets and in the Herring Festival in Siglufjörður 29 July – 1 August 260 km detour in winter! One can only transformed and the community has Lively theatrical performances depicting future, also poems by foreign poets. Berry Days, Ólafsfjörður12 – 14 August imagine the challenges of transportation, felt its effects already. According to life and times from the Herring Era of the The Red, the Yellow and the Blue communication, safety and a host of related Sigurður Valur Ásbjarnarsson, mayor 1950’s are scheduled every Saturday in July. The unmistakable bright red, yellow and Whale Watching in Ólafsfjörður issues that residents of these remote fjords of Fjallabyggð, the merging of the two It is open from 10.00 to 22.00 between 12th blue buildings on the Rauðka Marina serve Exciting new developments in whale have had to contend with all their lives. municipalities would not have been June–18th August, and 13.00 to 17.00 in as the main gathering place and landmarks watching are now on the horizon for North –emv Fjallabyggð But no longer! In 2003, after much back possible without the tunnels. The residents Spring and Autumn. in Siglufjörður. Named after a well-known Sailing, one of the leading whale watching and forth discussion and negotiation, plans of the two previously separated towns can local sailor, the Hannes Boy Café, with its companies in North Iceland. In early June Gránagata 24 • 580 Siglufirði for a tunnel connecting the two villages now enjoy richer cultural, educational, Music in their Bones cosy rustic ambiance is reminiscent of the 2011, the well-known company began +354 464 9100 were finalised, making it the most ambitious and employment opportunities, and the Another gem in Fjallabyggð is the Folk glory days of the herring era. Opened in offering its tours from Ólafsfjörður, as well. Form on website project ever undertaken by the Icelandic tunnels will provide better and more Music Centre, which opened in 2006 in 2010, Hannes Boy Café is actually a brand Its traditional oak boats just add to the www.fjallabyggð.is Road Administration. Then, in 2006 the varied services in tourism and business. Siglufjörður. Music has always played an new restaurant, serving quality food at authenticity of your journey out on the open

82 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 83 concerts, exhibitions, dancing, theatre literature and more. Níels Whale Watching combines Whale Watching and Sea Angling Summer Destination of the North The Annual Hiking Week of Akureyri The Ultimate Maritime Experience Beautiful Akureyri and surroundings will take place this year hen looking for an authentic 1989, making them one of Iceland’s surrounding it, including the Tröllaskagi ne of the most idyllic towns in Iceland, New Hiking and Bike Trails on 3 -10 July. Guided walks, ranging from a Icelandic maritime experience you most experienced whale watching peninsula and a multitude of small Akureyri, is buzzing with excitement The Kjarnaskógur Recreational Area, few hours (easy) to strenuous, such as the ‘24 can‘tW go wrong by going whale watching companies. The company is named seaside towns. Another delight is sailing thisO summer, with happenings and lots of ideal for summer outings, with its many peaks in 24’ hours will be offered. and sea angling on a genuine Icelandic after its vessel, Níels Jónsson EA 106, by Hrísey Island, which has been dubbed new additions to its growing list of amenities. walking paths, playgrounds, picnic areas fishing vessel with veteran fishermen at the a virtually unmodified 30 ton fishing ‘The Pearl of Eyjafjörður’. The bay is The newly-opened Icelandair Hotel with and barbecue facilities, has recently helm. Níels Whale Watching operates in boat built of oak in Akureyri in 1973, full of life during the summertime with 63 rooms, is just a 2 minute walk from added several new hiking trails and humpbacks, beaked whales, dolphins Akureyri’s popular geothermally heated boasts a new mountain bike trail, the and sea hogs being the most commonly municipal swimming pool that features longest in the country. spotted in the bay, with a 95% chance two large outdoor swimming pools with of seeing at least one of them. The Níels temperatures around 28°C along with Stroll through the Fauna and Flora crew has decades of experience in locating geothermal hot pots and water slides in the The Botanical Gardens of Akureyri the bay’s inhabitants and start each day children’s area. The lovely Hotel KEA, right contains a wide variety of both Icelandic by taking a drive along the shore to see in the centre of town, has been recently and foreign flora, with new species being where the whales are mainly located order renovated and enlarged. added to the collection on a regular basis. to make the most of the day’s trips. Popular with visitors a locals alike, the New Museums and Exhibitions gardens provide a welcome respite where Fun Fishing with the Experts In the Old Town of Akureyri you will find a you can relax and enjoy our wonderful After having gazed upon the great whales variety of interesting museums and exhibits. summers in north Iceland. you’ll have the chance of trying your New this year, are the Motorcycle Museum Medieval Days at Gásir luck at sea angling under the guidance of Iceland and an exhibition of old toys at Festivals and Events A medieval festival will be taking place at of professional fishermen with decades of Friðbjarnarhús in Aðalstræti, both located The Summer Festival of the Arts opens Gásir, 11 km from Akureyri, which was experience. The most commonly caught in this historic part of town. with the Midsummer Night Festival on the main trading post in Northern Iceland fish are cod, haddock, pollock and catfish June 23 every year and continues for during the Middle Ages. Held on 16.-19. the majestic beauty of Eyjafjörður Bay in which is used for commercial fishing and if you are lucky, you might even catch a Culture, the Arts and Tourist Information 10 weeks throughout the summer with July, Medieval Days is a reenactment of life the north of Iceland, using their decades during the wintertime. It is, of course, giant halibut. The fishermen will even help Opened in August 2010, the Hof Cultural as it was at Gásir, with medieval markets, of experience to give visitors a chance equipped to fit the needs of the modern you prepare your catch for cooking. and Conference Centre is the latest New restaurants in Akureyri food and handicrafts. to come up close to some of the earth’s man, with protective clothing, hot coffee –vag addition to Akureyri’s growing cultural Níels Whale Watching Goya Tapas Bar, Kaupvangsstræti, 23 Akureyrarstofa biggest mammals as well as trying your and genuine Icelandic pastries available life, providing a state-of-the-art venue for Kung Fu Sticks & Sushi, Brekkugata, 3 luck at fishing – on the same tour. during your trip. concerts, the performing arts, conferences, Hauganesi • 621 Dalvík 1862 Nordic Bistro, Hof Strandgata, 12 Strandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri exhibitions, special occasions and events. +354 867 0000 Örkin hans Nóa, Hafnarstræti, 22 +354 450 1050 [email protected] At the Hof, you will also find Akureyri’s [email protected] Sail in a Traditional Oak Boat A Bay Full of Life Laxdalshús, Hafnarstræti, 11 Níels Whale Watching has been taking Eyjafjörður Bay is known for its great www.niels.is Tourist Information Centre, located just www.visitakureyri.is tourists out to Eyjafjörður Bay since beauty and towering mountain ranges inside the front entrance. Kaffi Költ, Geislagötu,10

84 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 85 peek outside at the well-kept garden and on warmer days, sit out on the backyard Árból Guesthouse is a beautiful place to stay in Húsavík patio and listen to the sound of the gently A Stay by the Park trickling stream. Guests who want to take n a residential side street of Húsavík, attic recently added on as an expansion. a short walk can just follow the stream to overlooking a gentle stream on the west Bedrooms have shared bathrooms with five enter Húsavík’s park. A bit further is a lake endO of the town park is Árból Guesthouse, bathrooms in total for the ten rooms in the with a lot of trout in it. It takes about an a tranquil guesthouse just off the town’s hotel. Styled simply, with cushioned wicker hour to walk around it. No fishing permit is main street. Ten rooms prepared by owner chairs and comfortable double beds, the airy required at the lake so visitors can just grab and manager, Auður, await travellers who rooms are illuminated by sun streaming a fishing pole and see if anything is biting. Designer unite! want to spend a few days whale watching or through large windows on summer days. Kraum, the nations´s first store dedicated entirely to taking day trips to Mývatn or the National The two bedrooms in the attic are styled A Governor to be thankful for Árból Guesthouse’s three floors were once Icelandic design, has breathed new life into Reykjavik´s trod by Húsavík’s governor, who lived there oldest house, just off Ingólfstorg square downtown. until 1956, and the house acted as the city The store features work from over 70 designers hall for the district. Known for his kindness including textile, jewelry, household items, and a and good nature, the former governor used variety of other utilitarian object, all selected by a to phone farmers brewing spirits during Icelandic prohibition days if he expected professional committee to ensure a fair representation an official visit from his superior. Partiality of Iceland´s best. Kraum, meaning simmer, is appropri- to locals and exceptions to the rules were ately named as the first and only forum for Iceland´s considered a norm in this small town’s life. auspicious design scene, which centers an organic Even though the governor is long gone, he is elements like wool, lava and fur from the nations´s still remembered in the stories and hearts of unique nature. Because the space was conceived as a the townspeople and Árból remains known for its inner charms and outward grace. store and not a gallery, the offering focuses on produc- tion items instead of one-of-a-kind pieces, and prices –kb Árból reflect Kraum´s sentiment of design´s place in every- Park which is only forty-five minutes away. differently from the rest of the house, with day life, and not just on the mantelpiece. Auður often remains at the guesthouse to give wood stained dark honey and a skylight Ásgarðsvegur 2 • 640 Húsavík visitors tips or chat with them at breakfast, for lighting up a shared living room lined with +354 464 2220 a hands-on approach. leather couches. [email protected] Opening hours The three story guesthouse features After a big buffet breakfast included in www.arbol.is Monday - Friday 9:00 - 20:00 four rooms per floor with a two bedroom the price of the room, guests can take a Saturday 10:00 - 17:00 Sunday 12:00 - 17:00 Aðalstræti 10 101 Reykjavik www.kraum.is 86 www.icelandictimes.com area, an exhibition on Iceland’s role in the moon landing and a photography exhibition with photos from TheHúsavík’s CultureFascinating View of ItsHouse History the Mývatn Area at the beginning of the here are two permanent exhibitions in 20th century, taken by Bárður Sigurðsson. The Culture House: ‘Man and Nature – At the Cultural house you can also find a 100T years in Þingeyjarsýsla’, a new exhibition children’s room, museum shop and coffee. opened in 2010 and ‘The Maritime Exhibition’. The Culture House is open from the 1st of June - 31st of August every day from 10-18. ‘Man and Nature—100 Years in Adult admission is 600 ISK with children Þingeyjarsýsla’ under 16 admitted free and includes all This aims to provide insight into man’s exhibits. relationship with nature in this region in the period 1850-1950, and the subsistence Húsavík Phallological Museum farming that was practised at that time when One of the strangest museums in Iceland and each farmstead was largely self-sufficient. likely the world, the phallological museum is a This interesting aspect of national culture serious museum with a sense of humour about its waters travel over 200 km to the sea from is explored by juxtaposing objects from nature subject matter. This museum boasts a collection Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. and man-made artefacts. The presentation of carefully preserved penises from all land and LifeHúsavík - onthe Hub the of the EdgeNorth-East of the Arctic Completing this tour is Ásbyrgi, one of includes a large number of interesting exhibits sea animals found in Iceland. The collection has - some of natural origin, such as animals, ay up in the north east of the to one of the largest colonies of this plants and rocks, while others are home-made country lies Húsavík, the town unusual bird in Iceland. objects, for instance tools, needlework, works knownW as ‘The Whale-Watching Capital The harbour area has been transformed of art and crafts, etc. of Europe’. Like most Icelandic coastal into a worthy attraction in itself. Visitors towns, Húsavík started its life as a can enjoy delicious meals of freshly-caught The Maritime Exhibition fishing village. With an abundance of seafood or shop in one of the converted Here you will find displays of a large whales and birdlife, it has quickly earned former fisherman’s homes, which still number of boats, many of them built in its reputation as the place to visit to see retain their character and charm. Húsavík. It also includes a wide variety of the awesome sights both these creatures Sea tours are not the only form of fishing gear, equipment and tools which provide along with the scenery on recreation, however, as hiking is a very were used in the fisheries, seal-hunting and Skjálfandi Bay, a natural wonder. popular pastime, too. The beautiful shark-fishing. Films can be viewed, and the exhibition offers an interesting interactive history database, where information on the most unusual natural wonders in the country. A horseshoe-shaped canyon, legend has it that the Norse god Oðin’s horse briefly stepped here, leaving his footprint. This makes a good day trip and been recently completed as the museum now Húsavík is the best place to use as a base has a human specimen from a man willing to to explore the whole of this beautiful area, relinquish the rights to his most intimate parts unlike any other. after his death to forever go down in history. A Other places of interest in the area are fun museum to make curious comparisons. the many abandoned farms along the 40 Open everyday 12-18 from 20th May to 10th km-long peninsula of Skálar at Langanes, September. Admission is 800 ISK. now populated with a wide range of birdlife. Dimmuborgir (Dark Castles) Húsavík Whale Museum are volcanic rock formations east of Lake Dedicated exclusively to whale biology, Mývatn. A forty minute walk leads to a such unusual matters as the location of behaviour, and interaction with people, this cave with a high dome-shaped roof that is fishing grounds, farms with driftwood museum is housed in the town’s renovated Old schooners have been renovated, now countryside draws visitors from many open at both ends. This is the reputed home rights, landing-places for boats, etc. is slaughterhouse. providing a true sea-going experience in the countries. If something less strenuous is of Iceland’s Yule Lads. presented in map form. style of days gone by, taking visitors out in order, a thirty-minute drive south will Húsavík is fast becoming the centre of –KB/Asf Húsavíkurstofa into the Arctic ocean under sail to enjoy the bring you to Goðafoss, one of the most tourism of many different types. Being Research and Photography Exhibits magnificent sight of whales in their natural spectacular waterfalls in Iceland. so close to the Arctic circle, it offers an On both the ground floor and top floor Hafnarstétt 1 • 640 Húsavík habitat. Just twenty minutes drive further on is insight into life in the North. The town’s of the Culture House various temporary +354 464 4300 A new addition to the seagoing tours the mystical Lake Mývatn. East of Húsavík culture makes it a popular place to stay and exhibitions and events take place. This [email protected] is an hour-long excursion to the island of lies Vatnajökull National Park and Europe’s a springboard for trips into the amazing summer, there will be an exhibition on www.husmus.is

Lundey, known as ‘Puffin Island’, home most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss, whose countryside surrounding it. –KB/asf Images by © Christopher Lund archeological research and findings in the

88 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 89 for any changes in weather. There are up to 10 tours daily during high season. The evening trips are special in summer, sailing Europe’sMassive Only Museum Marine Dedicated Exclusively Mammals to Whales WhaleNorth Sailing’s traditional Watching oak schooners sailUnder to the whales Sail under the midnight sun! There is the option ailing traditional Icelandic schooners used of northern Iceland. All the boats are outfitted to combine a trip with a 2-hour horse riding of whaling plays alongside a display of to be almost a memory of the past until to modern standards without losing the beauty tour from Saltvík Horse Centre, south of weaponry used for hunting. Icelanders Sbrothers, Hörður and Árni Sigurbjarnarson and charm of the traditional oak wood finish. Húsavík. For the more adventurous, there have not had a long history with whaling, painstakingly restored a 20-ton oak vessel to is a 2-day tour, ‘NSE-1 Edge of the Arctic,’ he immense skeleton of a sperm whale although other nations have come to its former glory and started taking visitors Challenges and memories eating and sleeping on board, stopping off hangs from the rafters of Húsavík’s exploit Icelandic waters for whales and whale and puffin watching from the northern Sailing the arctic seas in a schooner being at Flatey and Grímsey islands. What food WhaleT Museum. The second floor spotlights other sea life. A complicated relationship town of Húsavík. driven by the wind at up to 10 knots under could be fresher than fish caught en route complete whale skeletons for those who exists between humans and whales which full sail, following the world’s largest creatures, and grilled on board! want to learn more about whales than brief alternates between a desire to continue is invigorating, to say the least! It’s a thrill that For the even more adventurous, there glimpses seen when whale-watching. Visitors whaling traditions and a commitment to few get to experience today - but a memory is an 8-day tour, flying from Reykjavik to the museum can leisurely take in details preserving species. that lasts a lifetime! Is this environmentally airport to Greenland, sailing on the of some of the world’s largest mammals at Whaling is not the only threat to whales’ friendly form of travel the way of the future? schooner Hildur, with treks inland Europe’s only museum dedicated exclusively survival, which depends on plentiful fish to breathtaking views and a BBQ on to whales. stocks and clean water to survive. The effect Twice the experience the beach, eating locally-prepared musk Opened in 1997, Húsavík’s whale museum of chemicals that run off into ocean water Today, with a fleet of six vessels, in addition ox meat. has evolved its exhibits with up-to-date and certain fishing practices such as bottom to Húsavík, North Sailing is expanding to information provided in collaboration with trawling have decimated whale populations. offer new tours from Ólafsfjörður, just about Lunch or Dinner at the Harbour a research centre based in Húsavík. The The use of sonar equipment has caused an hour’s drive up the fjord from Akureyri. The beautiful Gamli Baukur restaurant, museum is divided into two floors with whales to beach themselves by confusing This is a prime location for whale watching with its large verandas overlooking Húsavík the first floor focusing on the behaviour, their internal sonar and leading them into - literally just minutes from the feeding harbour, offers a great dining experience, environment, and biology of whales while shallow waters from which they cannot grounds of whales, dolphins and porpoises! surrounded by maritime memorabilia to the second floor displays skeletons of stranded escape. Húsavík’s whale museum describes home for migrating whales makes it ideal for The opening of a new tunnel between complete your tour. With its fresh seafood, whales which were donated to the museum. all the threats facing whales in the hope of research and public education by providing Ólafsfjörður and Siglufjörður, famed for its both local and international dishes, it is a Several rare whale species are found on the educating the public about these problems. people with greater understanding not only herring and museum, means that it is quicker hot venue for live music. second floor, including a narwal with its of whales but the problems facing the global and safer to travel between the towns. characteristic protruding tooth. Understanding through Research environment. Their company, North Sailing, began in –asf Iceland has a special relationship with –kb North Sailing Húsavík Whale Museum 1994 with one vessel, the Knörrin, but news Tours for all tastes Man and the Whales whales. Twenty-three species frequent spread quickly and their tours became so Regular tours last approx. 3 - 4 hours, Hafnarstétt 9 • 640 Húsavík Húsavík’s whale museum outlines the the waters around Húsavík spending the Hafnarstétt 1 • 640 Húsavík popular that two more vessels were renovated. starting 1st April and include hot chocolate +354 464 7272 discussion of human influence on whales summer fattening up in Iceland’s rich +354 414 2800 The Haukur was fitted with traditional and local snack refreshments. [email protected] through both whaling and environmentally feeding grounds before migrating to give [email protected] equipment in the spirit of the 18th century Warm overalls, hats, gloves, blankets www.nordursigling.is destructive behaviours. On the first floor, birth in the warm waters of the Caribbean. www.whalemuseum.is shark schooners that used to fish off the coasts and raincoats are available in preparation a documentary detailing the history Húsavík’s unique position as a summer

90 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 91 ‘land’s end’ when you arrive at the very tip of Voladalstorfa, a hook-shaped cliff that juts out into the TjörneshreppurNorth Iceland, population 56 bay, where you can can take walks and t’s a place where the sheep population observe the puffins that nest there. vastly outnumbers human residents Besides it’s magnificent ocean views, andI the numbers of nesting birds Tjörneshreppur municipality is also an area of among the cliffs reach dizzying heights interest for geology students from all over the 700 EGILSSTAÐIR in summer. The municipality of world who come here to study rare fossils that Tjörneshreppur, is a 200 square kilometre ‘shouldn’t’ normally be found at this latitude. stretch of land just past Húsavík in the far reaches of North Iceland. Going to the municipality’s website I spied an article on their home page. The biggest news in January 2011 was that 2 freedom-loving sheep that had been lost in the highlands since September, had finally been rescued and brought home, much to their dismay!...Just to give you

Mánárbakki Museum and Turf Farm A quaint and charming museum with ICELANDIC ART & DESIGN WITH A SPECIAL FOCUS ON EAST ICELAND exhibits of life in Iceland as it was around Quality handcraft made of reindeer leather, reindeer horns, wool and local wood an idea that this is really the ideal spot to drive along this section of what is called 100 years ago is found at the Turf Farm spend an afternoon away from the crowds the ‘diamond ring road’. This is where, museum at Mánárbakki, which is open on Reykjavik’s Laugavegur shopping come mid-summer, you can watch the from 10th June to 31st August or by special street. The quiet calm, the serenity of midnight sun setting on the northern appointment outside of those dates. the ocean’s gaze...this is the beauty of horizon... one of the most peaceful and Tjörneshreppur municipality. idyllic sights that you could ever hope Dive with Puffins! Driving north from the town of for. Although Tjörneshreppur is not The largest of the 3 islands off the coast of Húsavík, the glittering expanse of the the highest latitude in Iceland, you will Tjörneshreppur, aptly named ‘Puffin Island’ North Atlantic comes into view as you nevertheless feel like you have reached has recently been discovered as a dive spot making it one of the newest snorkelling/ diving sites in Iceland. For more information about this dive site go to: www.divethenorth.is So, if you are making your way around Iceland this summer, or just happen to be visiting North Iceland, take some WELCOME! time to relax and enjoy the beautiful Tjörneshreppur Municipality. Summer opening hours: Weekdays 10am-6pm - Saturdays and sundays 12am-4pm –emv Tjörneshreppur Long wednesdays 10am-9pm

Ytri-Tungu 1 • 641 Húsavík +354 464 1970 HÚS HANDANNA / ART & DESIGN [email protected] www.tjorneshreppur.is Miðvangur 1-3 - 700 Egilsstaðir - ✆ 471 2433 Email: [email protected] - Facebook: Hús Handanna Art + Design

92 www.icelandictimes.com East– a hiking haven Iceland ast Iceland is a magnificent wonderland There are guided tours up and around this coasts is phenomenal. Brightly coloured Around Egilsstaðir where hikers, wanderers, bird- impressive volcano and the surroundings pebble beaches, black sand beaches of For some shorter options, the Hiking watchers,E kayakers and nature lovers find offer some great sights, such as lush green Vöðlavík, awesome sheer cliffs, pristine Pearls of Fljótsdalshérað, the area around everything their heart desires; Wilderness, moss and springs, sparkling in between fjords lined with eider ducks, old ruins Egilsstaðir give you some great possibilities. solitude, challenge, other horizons–and black sands. Herds of wild reindeer and of ancient farmsteads and the occasional Don’t miss the 40-minute climb to Iceland’s some, even peace of mind. But more than pink-footed geese roam around. Nearby reindeer herd in deserted coves give you 2nd highest waterfall, Hengifoss, the anything, East Iceland is known for great Brúarjökull probably offers one of the easiest an out of this world feeling of freedom and beautiful basalt pillars of Litlanesfoss in outdoor activities, hiking, riding, fishing, accesses to explore a tremendous ice sheet. eternity. Then, finish with a short hike to Fljótsdalur, or a stroll in the Hallormsstaður exploring, and friendly fishing villages for For the avid hiker, the Snæfell–Lónsöræfi Helgustaðanáma, the old Iceland Spar mine arctic birch forest. They are all truly après adventure. trail, with stunning landscapes in the in Eskifjörður. something to write home about, as are Vatnajökull National Park, is a tempting Hikes and treks for everyone and trying solitary route across the Hiking is by far the East Iceland traveller’s Eyjabakkajökull glacier before dropping best way to enjoy the refreshing wilderness. down to the the stunning Lónsöræfi The region is renowned for interesting and highlands, and the view of expansive green diverse routes, ranging from day hikes to valleys with countless waterfalls, such as enable you to have views of beautiful adventure-rich multiday treks. Good hiking Mt. Snæfell—Lónsöræfi Geithellnadalur, Hofsdalur or Víðidalur. coastlines, mountain ridges, abandoned maps of the whole region are available at Mt. Snæfell, the 1833 extinct volcano and farmhouses, birdlife, arctic fauna and, with Tourist Information Centres and a number Iceland’s highest mountain outside the a little luck, maybe even reindeer. The area of paths have been marked for safer hiking glacier massif of Vatnajökull, presents a is known for colourful mountains and semi and optimum enjoyment. magnificent view from the top. precious stones, as well as one of the best places to watch puffins. Some of the best day hikes are without a doubt to be found here, including one of Iceland’s best kept secrets— the monumental Stórurð, a labyrinth of enormous rocks through which a little river winds its way and calm turquoise ponds of icy water lie hidden among the huge boulders, lined by flat banks of short, green grass. Just the perfect way to enjoy the best unspoilt, breathtaking nature.

Kverkfjöll Skálanes the solitude of Hjálpleysa, the ½ day hike A tour to Kverkfjöll, experiencing the unique For those preferring to enjoy a maritime by Stóra-Sandfell, through mindblowing interplay of ice and fire in the imposing view, a unique opportunity to experience monuments of the Ice Age. Enjoy a stroll at surroundings, is an experience. Climb to the beauty and calm of East Iceland are its Húsey or spend a day at Iceland’s strangest the hot spring valley for a magnificent view fjords. Visit the wonderful Nature heritage beach, Þerribjörg, by the Hellisheiði pass to of boiling mudsprings melting a labyrinth of centre at Skálanes at the furthest shore Vopnafjörður. Visit the Elf-lady trail and the caves through the great Vatnajökull glacier. of beautiful Seyðisfjörður or enjoy the Earth history landbridge by the Bustarfell Try soaking your sore feet in the warm ride to Mjóifjörður, one of Iceland’s most folk museum in Vopnafjörður. This is to volcanic waters flowing from the mouth of celebrated fjords, with the breathtaking name just a few of the wonderful options the great Kverkfjöll ice cave. Although the Klifurbrekkufossar waterfalls. open to you in this hikers’ paradise.

white giant looks peaceful enough, never East Iceland Marketing Office forget that there are many dangers hidden Eskifjörður - Norðfjörður in the moving ice. Different, but no less attractive, is the Miðvangi 1-3 • 700 Egilsstaðir easternmost part, the Gerpissvæði between +354 472 1750 Víknaslóðir Eskifjörður and Norðfjörður, where [email protected] The 150 km marked paths of the Víknaslóðir skyscraping peaks join forces with the heavy www.east.is (Desert Inlets) in Borgarfjörður eystri, waves of the Atlantic. The great variety in

94 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 95 fjord and the impressive Sulur Mountains, just a stone’s throw from KaffiStöðvarfjörður’s Steinn newest addition & Guest House Petra’s Stone and Mineral Collection. affi Steinn & Guest House is just one The café serves soup of the day, pizza, more example of Icelandic ingenuity cakes, cappuccino and espresso coffee from inK re-using old buildings that have out- its snazzy new Italian coffee maker. There grown their original purpose. The building are 9 new rooms all with en suite bath and in question used to be a supermarket which there are plans in the works for an adjacent fell into disuse 1995, sitting idle and empty meeting/event room. The café is right across until 2 families banded together to buy the the street from the local handicraft market property in 2010. and looks out over the Stöðvarfjörður

Kaffi Steinn –emv

Fjarðarbraut 41 • 755 Stöðvafjörður +354 511 3055 Elves and Fairies [email protected] presented by The East Iceland Culture Council Elves, we learn, are extremely curious about The Edge of Imagination humans, and their biggest fear is that we stop DGES is a co-operative effort East Iceland Culture Council and Donegal believing in them. In their obsession with combining cultural heritage and County Council Cultural Services and the human race, they have been known to contemporaryE art with a view to strengthen local heritage museums of each country. ‘borrow’ single socks from us, which they then local identity in three peripheral regions The participating museum in Iceland is The use as telescopes in order to spy on the world of the North Atlantic. Participating East Iceland Heritage Museum. of humans. Fairies in Ireland are into ‘shape artists were challenged to find new ways shifting’ and frequently assume the body of The Edge of the Pier, the Sea, the birds. When a bird is stuffed by a taxidermist, A cosy café with a French atmosphere – everything home baked fairies take it as a great compliment and as Imagination Sumarlína Restaurant–Café is a cosy restaurant, with seats for 50 people, situated At the core of the project are three such are enormously pleased to have been museum-based artists’ workshops, each honored in this way. Although elves are in a beautifully restored wooden house on seaside in Fáskrúðsfjörður. The exploring a similar Edge–related theme allergic to iron, and must wear protective restaurant is open every day, 10 am-10 pm, offering a full menu. The emphasis is - The Edge of The Pier (Vesterålen), The gloves when handling anything made of it, on local food, meat, fresh fish, crabs, shrimp, crêpes, hamburgers, sandwiches and a Edge of the Sea (Donegal) focusing on they are fascinated by aluminium, and at least sea journeys by Donegal hermit monks in this exhibition, have papered their walls delicious selection of cakes. A buffet is available for groups upon request. and The Edge of the Imagination (East with the aluminium foil. Iceland) which focuses on mythical Fascinating stuff! But to truly grasp these CHEMIN DU BUDIR 59 • TEL. +354 475 1575 • +354 863 1341 folklore and beliefs. fanciful revelations you might want to check out the exhibition yourself. The Edge of the The Hidden People Imagination, runs until the 31st of July at the Four young artists, led by artist/actress Natural History Museum in Neskaupstaður Halldóra Malin Pétursdóttir, have collaborated (weekends only, admission free) The French Museum on the Icelandic side of the project: Maria Well, now I know why I have so many Pêcheurs Français en Islande McKinney from Ireland, Anja Veronica socks missing from my sock drawer! Images by © Óskar Ragnarsson © Óskar Ragnarsson Images by Hansen, from Norway and Icelanders Hlín – Menningarráð Austurlands emv In memory of the French fishermen in Iceland. French fishermen fished in of portraying the shared heritage of East Daviðssdóttir and Páll Ivan. The four artists, Icelandic waters for over three centuries. The French writer, Pierre Loti, Iceland, Northern Norway and Donegal, armed with a large portion of artistic license, Skriðuklaustri • 701 Egilstöðum Ireland, while fostering a sense of have taken the vantage point of the hidden +354 471 3230 enshrined their memories in his novel “Pêcheurs d’ Islande”. Fáskrúðsfjörður community and cooperation between the people themselves, shedding light on many [email protected] used to be the base of the French fishermen and they played an important role in coastal regions. The project partners are aspects of their little understood modus www.skriduklaustur.is/menning Vesterålen Regional Council (Norway), operandi and feelings about humans. the history of the area. A visit to the French Museum is an absolute must!

96 www.icelandictimes.com CHEMIN DU BUDIR 8 TEL. +354 475 1575 • +354www.icelandictimes.com 863 1341 97 What One Woman Can Do that her parents chose this name for her. for name this chose parents her that curious rather it so is Iceland, in commonly not used ‘stone’) is for (Greek Petra, name the age at geode Interestingly, 7. first her finding stones, semi-precious rare discovering for knack uncanny an showed she achild, as of Petra’s and, life apart been always have stones Beautiful of Stöðvarfjörður. shore northern on the farmhouse traditional small 98 her home her conduct to above mountains the up into and door out front her walking of amatter simply it was Nevertheless, yard’. ‘back own her to Petra’s of search scope limited remoteness The River. Stöðvará the over yet as existed no bridge and primitive, were roads the difficult; very was Iceland in 1962,to Prior travel Stöðvarfjörðar. in mountains of the slopes north the searching to restricted was Petra work, of collecting her decades two first For the Remoteness in Riches L born on Christmas Eve, 1922 Eve, a in on Christmas born was Sveinsdóttir María Petra jósbjörg Petra’s S is evidence to the contrary, as noted by noted as contrary, the to evidence is However, it. there behind science not the of nature, beauty the to connected solely is interest her that She claims sciences. natural other and geology in interest a limited has she that says Petra questioned, When of Geology Beauty the by Drawn technique. research smelly and unpleasant this byusing of shells species rare many found students and her floor. Petra on kitchen her studied then they which guts fish gather would they where fishermen local tothe of children agroup or by taking seaside bythe walks long bytaking either methods: distinct two upbyusing built she which shells of collection alarge has also Petra collection, stone and mineral her to addition In Shells Rare for Find Method A Rare stones present in the geology of Iceland. East & of minerals variety vast the to testament aremarkable therefore is tow. Her collection in of children her several with often searches, www.icelandictimes.com tone and Mineral and tone Collection thousands of visitors of all nationalities nationalities of all of visitors thousands found. it was where place the after Stöðvarkóningur, name the given was world and the in else nowhere existing unique, be to proved shell The home. his near found boy alocal that ashell was specimens, these One of research. scientific to contributed has she that specimens for of thanks renderings and science natural and geology with connected matters about to her questions answers both are letters The botanists. and biologists marine geologists, with years, the over correspondence her In the past 30 years, hundreds of hundreds years, 30 past the In

Images by © Tim Vollmer that should be getting the award, not me!” not me!” award, the getting be should that stones the it is and not myself for and stones the for is award “This saying, invitation the declined initially Petra award. Falcon the of Order prestigious the with decorated be to was Petra where Bessastaðir, at residence presidential the at dinner aspecial to Petra Iceland, Vigdís Finnbogadóttir invited of her. 1995,upon president In then the brought herlife’s work has that attention the all with ease at not completely is Petra garnered, have Petra’sthat collections notoriety even and interest the spite of all In Searching of Lifetime of a Rewards The popular tourist attraction of East Iceland. Iceland. of East attraction tourist popular most the be provento has and time same the at collection the viewing be to 100 visitors more for than not it uncommon is August, and July During exhibition. the through passing people 20,000 with 2003 in zenith a reached Visitor numbers Stöðvarfjörður. in home Sunnuhlíð at herown in display on is which Petra’s visited collection, have of being able to express her love of nature. love her of nature. express to able of being dream her realising in succeeded indeed has Petra that by, go to clear it is then anything are book guest her in entries the But if A Dream Realised truly astounding.” astounding.” truly it is variety, much so so, just is there see, to blessed been Ihave that creation of God’s beauty the all about or apoem asong write to able not at being frustrated so feeling “I remember remarks, Petra time. a lovely had and go to decided finally she friends, and family her from persuasion some After www.icelandictimes.com East Iceland. of geology the in found be to beauty the for one woman’s us passion with share to home, their and lives their hearts, their opened have who grandchildren, and of children her help the now with Petra, to We indebted are Petra’s Stone Museum Stone Petra’s Fjarðarbraut • 755 Stöðvarfjörður +354 475 8834 [email protected] www.steinapetra.is – emv 99 EmbracedFishing, Hiking and Hunting byin the TranquilityNature of Breiðdalur in Valley East with the Elves Iceland and Trolls here are still many areas of Iceland The hotel is located on Highway #1, about that have, for whatever reason, 7 km from the village of Breiðdalsvík. It is notT yet attracted too much in the way 625 km from Reykjavík and 75 km from of mass-tourism. Breiðdalur Valley in Egilsstaðir. The hotel is also an ideal stop East Iceland is just one of those places. for those who are travelling by the Norraena own herbs and lettuce and raises her own As remote as it is beautiful, the valley ferry, as it is only about 100 km from chickens on the property. The extensive has only a few farms scattered here and Seyðisfjörður. QuintessentiallyEast Iceland’s Exceptional Small Hotel-Restaurant German lunch and dinner menu offers traditional there and you can easily have the entire he antique wooden clock strikes nine and even its own clutch of egg-laying hens. German home cooking using the freshest valley pretty much to yourself. There is in the evening and we are just finishing Spectacularly situated in the foothills of the of Icelandic ingredients, and you can a good variety of marked trails which are upT an enjoyable meal with Irish coffee and mountain ridge that separates Breiðdalsvík be absolutely sure of an excellent and excellent for day hikes and you will also a delectable cheesecake from the kitchen of and Stöðvarfjörður, the hotel overlooks the copious meal. find three of Iceland’s most beautiful Margret Bekemeier, chef and owner of Hotel- fishing rivers, Breiðdalsá and its attractive Restaurant Margrét. waterfall Beljandi, the Tinnudalsá River Reminiscent of a Swiss chalet, the hotel is and Norðurdalsá River. Autumn is an made from Finnish pine inside and out and is ideal time for hunting geese, ptarmigan entirely furnished with antiques brought over and even reindeer - while fishing for brown from Germany. trout is possible throughout the year. This exceptional small hotel has absolutely everything going for it - the view, the food, the décor, the architecture, a kitchen garden

So where to stay while surrounded by so much natural beauty? Hotel Staðarborg, of course! So deep is the peace and quiet that guests often wake up to see a herd of reindeer grazing right outside their window. In the small stand of trees behind the hotel, small birds flit from branch to branch, singing and chattering. Owner/manager Arnar Stefansson tells me that many tourists ask him if this is the right place to see elves and trolls. “I always tell them, yes, this is exactly the right place!” So will you finally get a glimpse of one Bay of Breiðdal (Breiðdalsvík). It’s Looking out at the scenery, I am Hotel Staðarborg is formerly the of those elusive elves or trolls here in the hard to imagine a more picturesque already dreaming about returning again schoolhouse in Breiðdalur which has natural paradise that is Breiðdalur Valley? and cosy location for a holiday soon, but next time, I’m definitely now been thoroughly renovated and can You’ll have to find the answer to that one in Iceland. Although there are bringing my husband. accommodate 54 people in 30 spacious yourself! only 4 rooms, all with private rooms complete with private facilities and bath, the hotel can sleep up to 11 –emv Hótel Staðarborg –emv Café Margrét television. Sleeping bag accommodation and guests comfortably, making this

a camping site is also available. Staðarborg • 760 Breiðdalsvík undoubtedly the smallest hotel in Þverhamri • 760 Breiðdalsvík

The hotel’s restaurant serves á la carte meals +354 475 6760 Images by © Tim Vollmer Iceland. +354 475 6625 and refreshments are available throughout [email protected] Margret, who is an [email protected] the day. Facilities at Hotel Staðarborg include www.stadarborg.is accomplished professional chef a jacuzzi and a grassy sports field. from Germany, also grows her

100 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 101 fireplace and a wireless Internet free of charge. Also the friendly staff will gladly assist you to make the most of your visit. RuralHótel Bláfell offers Romantic a Vintage Escape in ParadiseHeavenly Surroundings Whether you are looking for an JustBreiðdalur Begging Valley of East Iceland to be Explored n one of Iceland’s numerous fjords on the shop, an arts and crafts market selling wool invigorating holiday resort in which east coast, a wonderful little oasis lies in products and various handmade objects by to unwind in the serenity of nature, he East of Iceland is renowned for its paths, making them more accessible and safe wait,I ready to embrace travellers with an local people, a Tourist Information Centre unique geological formations and for its for hikers with the use of a GPS system. all-Icelandic cosiness and country romance. and wireless Internet. When designing magnificentT variety of semi-precious stones Uncountable waterfalls descend from This is Hotel Bláfell, a family-owned hotel the place, the couple decided to decorate and minerals due, in part, to natural erosion Breiðdalur’s many peaks, and just about every and restaurant, situated in Breiðdalsvík, with recycled and vintage finds from the by the elements. Breiðdalur Valley shares in farm in the valley is backed by its very own a rural paradise cloaked by beautiful local area representing the history of the this rich heritage that is often overlooked by ‘private’ waterfall. scholars- Professor Stefan Einarsson, and mountains and peaceful scenery. house and connecting it to the history of mainstream tourists and as one of Iceland’s There are wonderful picnic spots around Dr. George P. Walker. Hotel Bláfell is run by couple Friðrik the village, which gives Kaupfjelagið an old hidden treasures, the wide and verdant valley the valley as well as opportunities for horse Stefan Einarsson was a prolific writer, Árnason and Hrafnhildur Hafsteinsdóttir fashioned and cosy look. The café menu is just begging to be explored. riding and salmon fishing and you can camp linguist and grammarian who taught for who have been welcoming guests for years, has light dishes ranging from sandwiches There are many old hiking trails that criss- just about anywhere that is not farm land. many years at Johns Hopkins University making it their goal to create a homely to salads as well as bread and pastry. cross the Breiðdalur district which have been The Gamla Kaupfélag which dates from in Baltimore and received Iceland’s highest atmosphere for people to relax in. Everything is homemade, something that used for centuries as postal routes and walking 1906, is Breiðdalsvík’s oldest building honour, the Order of the Falcon in 1939. has been a trademark of the restaurant paths that once connected the isolated villages. and was recently renovated to house the An ‘adopted son’ of Breiðdalur, the A New Look to the Traditional Village at Hotel Bláfell, which prides itself on In an effort to open the district to more tourism, district’s Heritage and Geology Museum. world-renowned British vulcanologist, Dr. Shoppe traditional homemade cooking, using a local hiking group has started an ongoing The museum showcases the lives and George P. Walker, spent many years doing This summer, they have extended their local food from the farmers in the valley project of mapping and marking the ancient works of two of Breiðdalur’s most famous research in East Iceland, particularly in business by converting the village’s old and fishermen in the village. the Breiðdalur Valley. He was one of a few general store into a charming little café, foreigners to receive the Icelandic Order of Kaupfjelagið, complete with a souvenir A New Look to the Hotel the Falcon (the equivalent of a knighthood), The hotel has recently been renovated conferred upon him by the President of and is partly constructed from natural Iceland in 1977. wood, which gives it a warm log cabin or simply longing for a hearty meal as Both men contributed much to their feel. The rich geological history of the you pass by on your way to many of respective fields of research and the unique area is shown in parts of the interiors Breiðdalur’s natural gems in the vicinity exhibitions are full of fascinating details and that are made from stones found nearby. of Breiðdalsvík, Hotel Bláfell is sure to artifacts from their life and work. The lava in the east fjords is part of the leave nothing to be desired. – – EMV Images by © Tim Vollmer oldest landmass in Iceland, making HH Breiðdalshreppur Hótel Bláfell it rich in semi-precious minerals and

Ásvegur 32 • 760 Breiðdalsvík stones. Sólvöllum 14 • 760 Breiðdalsvík +354 470 5560 Hotel Bláfell has both standard and +354 475 6770 [email protected] deluxe rooms with a bathroom, TV [email protected] www.breiddalur.is and telephone. Downstairs there is a www.hotelblafell.is comfortable sitting room with an open

102 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 103 Hotel Framtíð of DjúpivogurAccommodation for every budget

t’s rather rare in Iceland to find so many overlooks a small harbour with colourful plaice. Other excellent menu items include the many bird-watching enthusiasts who types of accommodation owned by just fishing boats and even the passing sailing starters such as mussels (local of course), frequent Djúpivogur in summer. oneI company, but Hotel Framtíð has got yacht. We joke that the fish in the harbour cooked in white wine, an almost addictive A hike to the top of Búlandstindur is a it all covered; a kind of ‘one stop shop’ for are so close that they simply jump out of the goose breast carpaccio and main dishes such wonderful way to get in some exercise and all your accommodation needs, right in the water and land directly on our plates. Owner as the heavenly roast lamb fillet or grilled the view from the top is breathtaking. On a centre of town. Thorir explains, “Well, its not too far from langoustine with garlic butter. sunny day, the air is so clear and unpolluted Facilities are centrally located within the truth, as the fishermen are only going Now that you are comfortably settled that you can easily see for at least 100 km the vicinity of the main building at the maybe one kilometre from the harbour to into your lodging, you will want to in all directions, making this an experience Djúpivogur harbour: there is a camp fish”. spend a day or two exploring Djúpivogur that you will not soon forget. A favourite of tour guides in Iceland, and surroundings. The Island of Papey, the popular daily special at Hotel Framtíð believed to be the home of Irish monks and The Eggs of Merry Bay is always the catch of the day, whether it hermits before the Settlement makes for A lovely walk along the water’s edge be cod, trout, halibut, haddock, redfish or an interesting day trip. The 2 km-square brings you to an outdoor sculpture, ‘The island was inhabited until 1966 and is now Eggs of Merry Bay’ which runs along the home to many thousands of pairs of Puffins. west side of Gleðivík (Merry Bay) about 900 Only reachable by boat, tours to the island metres from the main harbour. Created by site, a separate building for sleeping leave the harbour daily at 13:00, returning the Icelandic artist Sigurður Guðmundsson, bag accommodation, 3 self-contained at 17:00. Seals are often visible resting on the exhibition contains 34 huge granite eggs, apartments which are great for families the skerries and tours to the island include a one for each of the species of local birds. The and small groups and 4 brand-new self guided hike and visit to Iceland’s oldest and largest egg belongs to the colourful Red- contained cottages that sleep 2-3 persons smallest 18th century wooden church. Throated Diver, which was chosen as the each. The century-old main house boasts Just a few minutes drive from the harbour official bird of Djúpivogur. a new wing with 18 double rooms and en is a lovely area for walking and an excellent –emv Hótel Framtíð suite bathrooms, a large breakfast/meeting location to view many interesting species of

room, the restaurant and 8 cosy bedrooms birds, such as the Red-Throated Diver and Vogalandi 4 • 765 Djúpavogi with shared and private facilities on the the Slavonian Grebe. Special bird-watching +354 478 8887 upper floor. huts or ‘hides’ have been set up to facilitate [email protected] The post-card setting for Hotel Framtíð bird watching which are often used by www.simnet.is/framtid couldn’t be more delightful. The restaurant

104 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 105 set at the mouth of both 1977 and it has been run Berufjörður and Hamarsfjörður fjords. as a guest house since 1983,” Johann tells us. TheForget Reykjavik! Gateway Djúpivogur is to the Real East Iceland Iceland One of the area’s distinguishing landmarks Cheerful and Spotlessly Clean Many of his grandparent’s original furnishings is Búlandstindur, which presides over the Eyjólfsstaðir Guest House have been used in the decorating, giving the or the last 20 years or so, the population town with its perfect pyramid-shaped estled down between the undulating of many small towns and villages across peak. folds of Fossardalur Valley in the IcelandF has been declining drastically. The heart of Djúpivogur is its harbour EastN Fjords, with its 30-some waterfalls, lies Recently, however, many talented young and the point from which many an Eyolfstaður Guest House. Cheerful and people have returned to raise their families interesting day of exploration begins. spotlessly clean, the sleeping-bag-only guest in Djúpivogur. Evidence of this trend is © Tim Vollmer Just by the docks you will find the oldest house is popular with hikers and walking tour readily visible at the town’s kindergarten house, Langabúð, which dates back to 1790. groups and is one of the most inexpensive where 36 children between the ages of 1 The deep red and black timber house serves lodgings in the area. We met up with 19 year- and 5 are enrolled. Compare this with the as a cultural centre and heritage museum old Johann, who showed us around. “This grade school where the total population dedicated to the sculptor Ríkarður Jónsson house is where my grandparents lived until of kids ages 6 through 15 is 55 and you and politician Eysteinn Jónsson, who was get the idea. The innumerable benefits of instrumental in transforming Iceland into a living so close to nature in one of Iceland’s prosperous, independent republic. Coffee, tea many enchanting small villages is gradually and homemade cakes are served in the centre’s cute guest house a homey 50’s or 60’s charm gaining new ground. coffee shop, which is open daily in summer. that makes it so remarkable. Six comfortable bedrooms sleep a total of 22 people and there Explore Nature and History is large, fully-equipped kitchen where guests Djúpivogur is a compact little village with a can do their own cooking. population of only about 460 inhabitants, Eyjólfsstaðir –emv

Eyjólfsstöðum • 765 Djúpivogur +354 478 8971 [email protected] www.djupivogur.is/eyjolfsstadir

YouAuðun’s Stonecan’t & Mineral judge Collection a rock by its cover ocks, for me, have always been pretty much, well...just rocks. Then A Home to Talent IR went to East Iceland and got a whole Elsewhere in this issue of Icelandic new perspective on the hidden dimension Times, you will find articles about a of rock insides that I barely knew existed. few of those talented people who call Auðunn Baldursson of Djúpivogur has Djúpivogur home, such as clothing been collecting stones for the past 21 and accessory designer, Águsta years but four years ago decided to bring Arnardóttir, semi-precious stone his hobby to new levels, by investing in collector, Auðunn Baldursson and an a stone cutter and polishing equipment. overview of Djúpivogur’s specialists in Auðun obviously enjoys the look of accommodation, Hotel Framtíð. delight and surprise on the faces of his In summing up life in Djúpivogur, visitors as he turns each rock around, one poignant phrase written by an exposing their impressive colours and enthusiastic blogger comes to mind: patterns. ‘Forget Reykjavik, this is the Real The pride and joy of his private Iceland’. I couldn’t agree more. collection is the 460 kg monster of a

rock containing agate, quartz crystal and Images by © Tim Vollmer –emv zeolyte which is the largest of its type ever Djúpavogshreppur Auðun’s Stone Collection found in Iceland.

Bakka 1 • 765 Djúpavogi The small entrance fee of 500kr per Mörk 8b • 765 Djúpivogur +354 478 8288 person will help Auðun realise his dream +354 861 0570 [email protected] of moving the collection out from above [email protected] www.djupivogur.is his mechanic’s shop and into a more www.steinasafn.is suitable location.

106 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 107 FashionArfleifð - Icelandic design Heritage Economuseum goes all-natural ith so much emphasis placed on are so changeable that I am always learning using only local ingredients these something new and I get the inspiration to days,W it should come as no surprise that create based on this experience, much in the one fashion designer has come up with the same way that an artist is inspired by various brilliant idea of putting to good use the mediums”, explains Ágústa. by-products created by the food industry. The list of materials used in Ágústa’s creations reads like a dinner menu: cod, perch, spotted wolfish, salmon, catfish and watch the making of the items and lamb. Using skins that would have available in Arfleifð’s boutique. normally been discarded and which have Arfleifð is a member of the Economuseum then been tanned at Atlantic Leather in Artisan Network of Northern Europe, north Iceland, the fish leather is strong and the first Icelandic artisan to gain this yet soft and can be dyed to the designer’s distinction. specifications. Ágústa takes things one step further with the inclusion of reindeer skin, seal skin and fur and even using strands of Definition: Ecomuseum horse tail, bones and horns for decorative An Economuseum is a new concept elements in her creations. dedicated to the preservation of authentic To celebrate Arfleifð’s first anniversary techniques or know-how used in the in March of 2011, a new collection was production of traditional craft or foods and premiered at Reykjavik’s Grand Hotel, with a is an important part of cultural tourism. fashion show entitled ‘Fashion with Flavour’. Ágústa Margrét Arnardóttir, who has The dinner menu, featuring dishes of fish, been developing her techniques over the last lamb and reindeer was served by models 8 years, was one of the first few designers dressed in Arfleifð designed clothes and it has –emv Arfleifð in Iceland, if not the world, to see the been non-stop for Ágústa ever since. tremendous potential in working with fish The Arfleifð Artisan Workshop, Ágústa’s Hammersminni 16 • 765 Djúpavogi leather, which is ideally suited for clothing home and atelier in Djúpivogur, is open +354 863 1475 and accessories. “Each type of skin has its to the public seven days a week. Visitors [email protected] own character and personality which I try can learn about the craft, its history and www.arfleifd.is to bring out in my designs. The materials development, chat directly with Ágústa

108 www.icelandictimes.com tracks and trails which had been used for years without having ever been established Europe’s Largest Glacier as actual roads and driving on them was, for Vatnajökull National Park, South Iceland all intents and purposes, considered off-road ne of the greatest nature preser-vation river is Jökulsá á Fjöllum, which runs over driving. But now the formal road system projects in Iceland is Vatnajökull 200 km north, over Europe’s most powerful has been increased from around 250 km to NationalO Park – the home to Europe’s largest waterfall, Dettifoss and the adjacent about 700 km of roads, ensuring travellers glacier. The glacier and its active volcanoes geological mystery and natural beauty spot, can access all the boundaries of the park are, however, far from being the park’s Ásbyrgi, to the Arctic Sea. without disturbing its environment,” says only attraction. You can also find powerful Þórður. waterfalls, colourful geothermal areas, vast Always Something New barren landscapes, mysterious canyons and The amazing sights within the park are too is actually much bigger and deeper than it historical sites where Iceland’s most famous numerous to mention and all of them differ appears. With an area measuring 23 square outlaw resided in exile – to name but a few. wildly from each other. Among the most km (36.8 square miles) in size, you could The Vatnajökull National Park was popular are the beautiful Skaftafell area and JökulsárlónAn Iconic Fantasy World of Rock Glacial and Ice Lagoon easily fit the island of Heimaey (in the formally established in 2008, when several Ásbyrgi, but Þórður H. Ólafsson, Manager he Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon is, Westman Islands) into it with room to spare. smaller parks were merged into one. It covers of the Park Office, encourages visitors to without a doubt, at the very top of my It’s 250 metres (825 feet) depth would fit five 13% of Iceland, or around 13.000 km2 with explore its other, less visited locations. “The listT of places to see in Iceland. Not only is it Leaning Towers of Pisa, stacked one on top the glacier and its many rivers and streams park’s uniqueness is that no two areas are one of my favourite places, it is one that most of another! that flow from it towards the sea. The largest the same. Each has its own charm and definitely deserves all the superlatives of the beauty and is definitely worth a visit. You English language—unbelievable, stunning, Scenic boat tours can actually visit the park year after year and magnificent are three that instantly spring Upon arrival at the lagoon, you will find a never set your foot in the same place twice.” to mind. It’s the place, given only three or small café where you can enjoy coffee, hot Other locations include a “hellish” volcanic four days in the country, that I would go to chocolate, waffles, or soup and sandwiches. crater, ice caves, mysterious canyons and Safety First first—and for two reasons: Jökulsárlón ehf offers guided boat tours oases in the desert of the Icelandic highlands. Although elaborate safety measures have First, just because of the unparalleled using specially-equipped amphibious boats Renewed Road System been taken throughout the park, risks destination in itself. which take you further into the lagoon, Since the park’s establishment, several associated with glaciers and glacial rivers The second reason is that the drive from sailing among the icebergs. changes have been made to preserve should never be taken lightly. Not all the Reykjavik to Jökulsárlón takes you along Across the road, where the lagoon flows the delicate ecosystem and increase the river crossings in the park have been bridged the whole southern coast, which is so varied into the sea, you can walk down to the accessibility and service to its visitors. One and some require special vehicles to cross Images by © Emily Bulajewski and dramatic that it makes the drive totally water’s edge to witness the baby ‘bergs’ that has been the total overhaul of the park’s and the glacier itself should not be traversed dot the shoreline- a truly amazing sight! road system. “Before, it mostly consisted of without proper equipment and information. You’ll find information centres in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Höfn, Ásbyrgi, Boat tours are available daily Skaftafell and Skriðuklaustur and during the summer, the number of park rangers is July and August - 9.00 to 19.00 increased substantially to make sure your worth it. You could easily spend your entire 15th Sept. - 30th Sept. - 10.00 to 17.00 visit to the park is an enjoyable one. vacation exploring the south coast and not run out of things to see and do. –emv –vag Jökulsárlón Vatnajökulsþjóðgarður

So accessible Kirkjubraut 7 • 780 Hornafirði Skaftafelli • 781 Öræfi There are not many glacial lagoons existing +354 478 2122 +354 470 8300 in the world today and certainly none that [email protected] [email protected] are this accessible. Located just a stone’s www.jokulsarlon.is www.vjp.is throw from the main ring road, the lagoon

110 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 111 A Father’s Vision Fulfilled The story of Anna Maria’s ancestors is well OasisFreysnes Restaurant, Under Supermarket the & Petrol Glacier Station documented outside the Skaftafell Visitors’ HumarhöfninLangoustine finds its niche in the of New HöfnIcelandic Cuisine pened in 1995 by Anna Maria 150 km ago, then the mini-supermarket is a Centre. Her father, Ragnar Stefánsson, who celand is known for some of the finest restaurant that can do justice to the lovely Ragnarsdóttir and her husband convenient place to restock. was way ahead of his time, was one of the fresh fish in the world and a large share little crustacean? This is the idea behind the JónO Benediktsson, Freysnes Restaurant few of his generation who had a vision of ofI the country’s catch is landed at Höfn í sea-food restaurant Humarhöfnin which & Supermarket is often a welcome stop 1,300 Years of Family History preserving the area for use as a national Hornafirði, on the south-east coast. Höfn has been a big success since it was opened to break the long stretches between In conversation with Anna Maria, who park. In his day, this was definitely a (which sounds like ‘Hup’ to our ears and 5 years ago by Anna Þorsteinsdóttir, her Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn. Popular divides her time between the restaurant and ‘foreign’ concept that was not at all welcome brother Ari Þorsteinsson and their spouses. with tourist guides and truckers who circle the Skaftafell Visitors’ Centre just 5 km away, among many of his compatriots. “I think my Popular with tourists from the the country, you will find hearty home I am amazed to learn that her family has been father would be very pleased, if he were alive Mediterranean countries, Humarhöfnin cooking, a salad bar and hot meals that living in the area since about the year 1300. today, to see that his dream of preserving is the only restaurant in Iceland that make up the lunch or dinner menu. If you It’s a wonder that genealogists the world over the land is finally coming to fruition”, says

serves whole langoustine. (The concept Images by © Tim Vollmer left your tube of toothpaste down the road are not flocking at her door for an interview. Anna Maria. is so new in Iceland, that each diner who point out the very boat that brought in orders langoustine receives illustrated the day’s catch, moored at the docks just a Vatnajökull - Record of Extremes instructions on the finer points of using few hundred metres away. The building was In June 2008, Skaftafell National Park the lobster cracker and fork that come formerly the town co-op which has been became a part of Vatnajökull National Park with the dish.) The menu was developed renovated and taken over by the restaurant. which covers an area of some 12,000 km2 and created by the French chef Jacques There is an exhibit of the history of the or at most 12% of the area of Iceland and is DuPont and many of his dishes, such as house, located on the 2nd floor. one of the most popular tourist destinations the beautifully presented ‘Mix of Whole Confit in the country. Vatnajökull National Langoustine and Tails’, the famous ‘Black Confit is one of the oldest methods used to preserve Park holds the record for having both the Magic Sauce’ and Duck Confit have food and is a speciality of south western France. It is warmest and coldest recorded temperatures, been very successful. Paired with one of mostly used to preserve the legs of cooked ducks for being the wettest and driest location and Humarhöfnin’s specially selected wines, and geese containing the highest and lowest elevations you are in line for an absolute feast. The in Iceland. means harbour) is also known as the crème brûlée, made from local eggs and –emv –emv Humarhöfnin Freysnes Restaurant & Shop langoustine capital of Iceland, with a several imported Madagascar vanilla will have you thousand visitors in town over the first swooning and you might want or need to Hafnarbraut 4 • 780 Höfn Freysnesi • 785 Öræfum weekend in July for the annual Humarhátið order a double portion. +354 478 1200 +354 478 2242 (Langoustine) Festival. The casual, bright and lively decor fits [email protected] [email protected] So what’s the langoustine capital of Humarhöfnin’s harbour location and www.humarhofnin.is none Iceland doing without a fine-dining the friendly wait staff will be happy to

112 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 113 Image © Ólafur Haraldsson

Here today, Reykjavik Excursions takes you to a Highland Paradise he process of creation continues enjoy the view. I got a lot more than is overkill? The huge windows give a splashed over the top of the jeep. I would roof! This year, the Ljónið lake is but This food is good! A hot pot and showers changedunabated in Iceland and what I bargained for, as I was regaled tomorrow with panoramic view and it’s so high off the be a drowned rat! - And this was only a memory - but next year, who knows? top off this highland resort. youT see today, may be very different history, stories and anecdotes the whole ground, you feel as if you’re flying up the first of many. No, you can’t take Just as I am beginning to wonder The tour is a 12 hour trip, with tomorrow. Those familiar with the way that made the countryside come to Þórsmörk. There are only two in the your car on this route. I’m convinced. why people come here, the vista opens pick-ups from Reykjavik hotels around Þórsmörk (Thorsmörk) nature reserve alive as never before. world - and both are in the south of At one point, the river current even up into the most beautiful, verdant 7:30 am. GPS-guided commentary is prior to the notorious eruptions would Then, from a distance, a clear white Iceland! Its tyres alone would dwarf my started to sweep the heavy jeep ahead scene at Valaknúkur. This area has its provided en route and then you transfer see a totally different landscape today. line down a high escarpment showed car. It can pass through waters 2 m high of us downstream as it crossed. We were own amazing micro-climate. Woods to the new bus at Seljalandsfoss for the By next year, things will probably be we were almost at the waterfall. This that even jeeps cannot get through. I’d up against powerful forces here. Now I and fields, caves and mountains. This trip into the interior. This popular tour different again in this constant war is the one you can walk behind and it’s need diving gear in my car. A Super jeep see the need for the new monster bus. is hiking territory at its best! From is worth every minute and will leave of creation and destruction, in which worth the spray, believe me. It’s not the would be taking me today, though. We The mountains are covered with here on, there are paths of different you with an amazing photo album and creation always wins out in the end. only waterfall here, though. There are drove in a convoy of 4 cars, carefully snow - but this year, the snow is covered difficulties, surrounded by greenery that memories. Once you’ve been on one of In almost any country, I could buzz a whole line of falls which make this a picking our way through the rocks. with dark stains of ash. This is a rare is bursting through the ash. The trees these tours, all the others suddenly look around in my little VW Golf. Even here beautiful place to stop and even camp. The first thing you see is desolation sight, indeed. Then the GPS shows that and undergrowth thrive in this highland very inviting! in Iceland, I can drive over most of the But I was on a mission. as you drive up the valley. The rugged we are in the middle of a lake! All I see Shangri-La. –asf ReykjavikReykjavik EExcursionsxcursions country. But I’m told I can’t take it to This year, a new monster bus has beauty of the mountains; the multitude is rough ground. There’s a small pond There is a small resort at nearby

Þórsmörk - and I decided to find out why. joined the RE fleet. I saw it at the of rivers rushing to join the larger barely big enough to float a child’s Húsadalur, with sleeping accommodation BSI Bus Terminal • 110 Reykjavik Driving down to the beautiful bus station, fresh out of Customs, Markarfljót river, crossing the rock- boat in it. Our driver tells us that the of all kinds, for those who can stay +354 580 5400 Seljalandsfoss waterfall would be no still with plastic on the seats. At first strewn valley floor. Just the first river ground here rose by 50 metres during longer, and a log-style restaurant, whose [email protected] problem, but I took the Reykjavik glance, it looked like a NATO rocket answered my question as we plunged the eruption - that’s the height of a staff work tirelessly to provide the kind of www.re.is Excursions tour bus there so I could launcher with windows. Surely, this down its steep bank and its waters 16-storey apartment block–with the delicious meals hikers and visitors need.

114 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 115 Hotel Laki had to deal with a few centimeters of ash but that was quickly swept away and now its back to UnderA Breathtaking, Quiet the Summer Glacier at Hotel Laki business as usual. On the plus side, volcanic here is a saying in Iceland that is ash has been found to be beneficial to plants thoroughly fitting for Hotel Laki: in Iceland and therefore is good for the ‘WhoT needs pictures on the walls when you farmers in the area. have such breathtaking views?’ Designed in 2003 by the Icelandic architectural firm Life Under the Glacier Yrki, the hotel was created to make the The clean, modern Scandinavian style hotel most of the abundant summer light. Huge comprises 64 double rooms with private vertical and panoramic windows flood the spacious dining and recreation areas with natural light and on the far horizon, the garguantuan Vatnajökull Glacier presides NothingKirkjubæjarklaustur, Skaftárhreppurin Sight District but Nature over the landscape. f you travel south on Road No. 1, take been especially noteworthy. In 2010, there a look at the pearls of nature which are was an eruption in Eyjafjallajökull and asI unique as their history when you enter in 2011 in Grímsvötn. A lot of ash fell Skaftárhreppur. on Skaftárhreppur but the inhabitants The Skaftárhreppur district derives its united to clean it up so you can enjoy the name from Skaftá river, which is 115 km peaceful surroundings and nature. The land long, rising beneath the Skaftárjökull glacier is constantly changing, though, from the and flowing to the sea. Skaftárhreppur glaciers to the vast black sand beaches. covers a very large territory, fully 7% of Iceland’s total land area. It is part of Hiking in History the Katla Geopark Project, founded in There are numerous other natural wonders November 2010 (see www.katlageopark.is). in Skaftárhreppur. Systrastapi (Sister’s the unique geology in the area is constantly With a population of only 447 inhabitants, Rock) is one of them, a steep-sided rocky evolving. It’s opening has been delayed due there are about 15.5 km2 per person. There hill west of Klaustur. Folklore says that two to the recent eruption. However, Klaustur is is peace and quiet here, making the perfect nuns were buried up on the rock after being the ideal spot from which to take day trips place to relax and unwind. burnt at the stake for breaking their vows into the southern highlands.

A Touch of the Irish Kirkjubæjarklaustur, with around 120 inhabitants is growing, and is the centre of Volcanic Benefits bath and 15 self-contained guest cottages, commerce, service, tourism and industry. In May 2011, the Grimsvötn Volcano, a challenging golf course. It also offers ATV The town’s name, which is often shortened situated in the Vatnajökull Glacier, woke up trips in and around Vatnajökull Glacier. to Klaustur, refers to long and interesting briefly to spew a few thousand tons of ash There is a gift shop which carries woollen story of Irish hermits who are believed to around the area. As abruptly as it began, the goods, landscape paintings by local artists as have lived at Kirkjubær before the Norse volcano petered out a few days later and nary well as jewellery and other hand-made items. settlement of Iceland. Tradition says that it a peep has been heard from it since. The extensive lunch and dinner buffet has always been inhabited by Christians and menu includes many dishes. A partial list the pagans were not welcome. includes: Soup of the day with homemade bread, smoked duck, minke whale and Soothe the Stress Away salmon, smoked and marinated goose, There is nothing to beat a refreshing swim homemade patés. Hot courses change from and relaxing dip in a hot pot - especially day to day but can include vegetarian as well The cornerstone of the local economy is over 1,000 years ago. Systrafoss (Sister Falls) after a day’s hiking, regardless of weather. as meat dishes. There is also a wide selection the agriculture and animal husbandry, while are beautiful twin waterfalls, surrounded by The outdoor swimming pool at Klaustur has Images © by Ingibjörg Eiríksdóttir of desserts such as tiramisu, freshly baked tourism is a growing sector. towering 65 year old pines and is located recently been rebuilt into a high-quality pool. cakes and hot berry sauces. in Klaustur. Then there is Eldgjá (Fire –emv –emv Skaftárhreppur Hótel Laki On Fire in the Basement Canyon), a spectacular volcanic canyon 270 The geology of Skaftárhreppur has been metres deep, 600 metres wide and over 70 Klausturv. 15 • 880 Kirkjubæjarklaustri Efri-Vík • 880 Kirkjubæjarklaustri evolving over centuries, creating marvellous km long. The newest attraction will be Geo +354 487 4840 +354 487 4694 pearls of nature caused mainly by volcanic Hikes, consisting of a brand new 20 km [email protected] [email protected] eruptions and the sudden floods that come marked hiking trail that circles Klaustur, www.klaustur.is www.hotellaki.is from the glaciers. The last two years have with informative signs giving insights as how

116 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 117 climb to the second floor of the shop to look down onto the bustling Vik-wool Unravelled by Vikurprjón workshop and see how their clothes are Knit-Wits made before purchasing them. Whale Watching he early settlers of Iceland set the a time-honoured tradition into a thriving tone of the country by dotting its business and paved the way for an entire Sounds of the Past, Books of Today emptyT hills with sheep. These sheep were industry. Wool is not the only focus in the store, Authentic Adventure one of the few things that the first settlers The wool, processing, design, and which treats travellers to Icelandic folk brought with them on their journey to production are Icelandic and Víkurprjón music as they browse. The music plays Modified Icelandic Fishingboat Iceland and became an important source has maintained a staff dedicated to creating softly in the background of the shop so that of food, clothing, and even wealth. clothing distinguished by its quality and visitors can hear the voice of a bygone era Perhaps this explains why the population attention to detail. Most of the work is as they stroll around. Víkurprjón’s selection of sheep is twice the human population done on the premises of the two-storey of books contain anything and everything and why much of the human population building where visitors can take a peek at visitors want to know about Iceland, from is occupied in knitting. the people behind the scenes. Visitors can the contemporary nightlife in Reykjavik

Included: Seafood soup and warm Bread rolls

You also might have realised that, with the unpredictability of Icelandic weather comes the need for warm, waterproof clothes. This is why the people at Víkurprjón have continued knitting in and recent volcanic eruptions to Old Norse the original patterns brought by the first myths and well-known Icelandic sagas. Best Icelandic settlers, who knew just how to of all, visitors are just a few minutes from deal with the damp and chill. Vik’s shore with its black sand beaches and rugged coastline. This store on the southern Imagination and Tradition tip of Iceland gives travellers the chance to Just a quick Icelandic lesson: Víkurprjón bring home souvenirs and handmade crafts means Vík-wool (Vík knitting) and for that keep a tradition alive. the past thirty years they have turned –KB Víkurprjón hf wool into everything from traditional hats, scarves, and sweaters in natural colours to Austurvegi 20 • 870 Vík striking, contemporary patterns dreamt +354 487 1250 up by imaginative designers. As one of [email protected] Phone +354 562 5700 www.vikurprjon.is the best-known and oldest producers of Mobile +354 863 5700 Icelandic wool products, they have turned www.sjosigling.is - [email protected] From Reykjavik Old Harbour 118 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 119 her succulent dishes of Icelandic lamb or fresh fish. Hotel Skógar is ideally situated RecordingOne Man’s Vision Becomes Skógar a Changing Folk Museum World for visitors wishing to hike over the yggðasafnið á Skógum, better known Fimmvörðuháls route and onwards to to English speakers as Skógar Folk Landmannalaugar and Thorsmörk. Museum,B is a unique place. It was founded Outings in the area include the magnificent on 1st December 1949 in a small basement room of the Skógar school by Þórður Tómasson, who always had great interest in preserving the original Icelandic folk culture.

A Pivotal Moment in History The establishment of the museum took place at a turning point in Icelandic history, when a new culture was taking over from the old: the old agricultural society was disappearing. Farmers were giving up both on agriculture and rowing out to sea in their open boats, and more and more were moving from the rural areas or fishing villages to Reykjavík. and shown in the open-air museum. You was originally built in 1901. In the newly Over time, the museum has expanded should take your time going through them, built area, you can see how fast Iceland has HotelWhere good things Skógar come in small packages greatly; the collection of items which began because it is a unique experience! One of changed since the mid-20th century. in 1945 is still growing today, and the the farmhouses is built as a ‘fjósbaðsstofa’: In the Museum of Transportation, ny journey around Iceland’s south museum is now divided into three parts, the living quarters that were traditionally you can find a cafeteria where you can coast inevitably brings you to the Dyrhólaey cliffs, teeming with birds in the Folk Museum, Open Air Museum and built above the cowshed, using the cows get traditional icelandic food or some peacefulA village of Skógar and its famous summer and a visit to the Skógar Folk Museum of Transportation. Documents as the main heating source. And no one light refreshments during your visit, and waterfall. The tiny village is really just a Museum with its original turf houses and and handcrafted objects are on show should miss a visit to the old collection of houses, a camping site, a folk turn of the century buildings.10 km to the connected with fishing, agriculture and turf farmhouses Icelanders and transportation museum, and a great west of Skógar brings you to Thorvaldseyri farm life and, in the most recent building, used to live in; the oldest is small hotel, Hotel Skógar. Farm’s new visitor centre, which chronicles transportation and telecommunication. from 1838! On the upper floor, you will find four the eruption of Eyafjallajökull in 2010. Skógakirkja, the church of spacious and beautifully appointed deluxe The South Coast on Show Skógar, which was consecrated rooms, while eight double rooms, all with Besides the various exhibits in the main in 1998, has elements dating en-suite bathrooms are found on the building, there is a lot to view outside back to 1600. Holt was the ground-floor. A welcoming wood-burning as well. All the buildings outside were first house built of timber in fireplace in the dining room sets the tone in use on the South Coast of Iceland at Vestur-Skaftafellssýsla, in for romantic dinners and the hotel’s top- some time. They were deconstructed 1878. The children’s school class chef will not fail to impress with piece by piece by the curator, to be rebuilt from Litli-Hvammur in Mýrdal

After a day of exploring the area, be sure to make use of Hotel Skógar’s relaxing the museum’s shop where you can buy hot tub and sauna or enjoy a glass of wine handcrafted pieces to remember a beautiful out on the deck, creating an altogether day. The fascinating Folk Museum of wonderful stay at Hotel Skógar - a must Skógar will surely show you that time while travelling in Iceland this summer. moves fast here. –emv Skógar Folk Museum Hótel Skógar Images by © Tim Vollmer

Skógum • 861 Hvolsvelli Skógum • 861 Hvolsvelli +354 487 8845 +354 487 4880 [email protected] [email protected] www.skogasafn.is www.hotelskogar.is –emv

120 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 121 AThorvaldseyri Meaningful Visitor Centre, South Slice Iceland of Life n case you missed the 2010 ‘event of the Featuring a powerful 20 minute year’ here in Iceland, better known as documentary punctuated with gripping theI Eyafjallajökull eruption, you can now footage of ground and aerial views of the get a chance to experience at least some eruption, the tiny yet impressive visitor centre of the excitement at the newly opened sits right at the foot of the volcano itself. Thorvaldseyri Visitor Centre. The film is narrated in a compelling first person perspective by farm owners Ólafur Eggertsson and his wife Guðný Valberg, allowing us a fascinating glimpse into their lives during that uncertain spring of 2010.

The geothermally-heated visitor centre has already received over 1600 visitors since opening on 14th April, 2011 and also contains a gift shop and photo gallery. A definite must this summer and worth every kronur of the 800 kr entrance fee. –emv Þorvaldseyri

Þorvaldseyri • 861 Hvolsvelli +354 487 5757 [email protected] www.thorvaldseyri.is PerfectViator summer cottage Place rental agency – toa perfect Stay option for families in Icelandand small groups ummer cottages offer more convenience, Summer cottage stays offer small groups more flexibility and more independence and families the exclusive use of a cottage. Sto holidaymakers than any other kind of Holidaymakers can come and go as they IceGlacier &Jeeps Adventure Tours accommodation – especially for small groups please without consulting with a front-desk, and families with children. ocated not far from Jökulsárlón life. Exhilarating is the only word that The popularity of summer cottages in in East Iceland, Glacier Jeeps Ice adequately describes the view from Europe’s Iceland continues to increase both among the andL Adventure tours offers exhilarating largest glacier, the mighty Vatnajökull. local population as well as tourists from abroad. guided glacier adventures that might be Glacier Jeeps offers year-round adventure Their popularity is hardly surprising because of the one stop in Iceland that changes your jeep tours using specially fitted 4WD as a base for most Glacier Jeep activities. The the many benefits they afford to users. vehicles, snowmobile tours and hiking tours. restaurant, which comfortably seats 80 to 90 Viator summer cottage rental agency All equipment - helmets, snowsuits, snow guests, offers a soup and salad buffet lunch, a provides an exclusive booking service on behalf boots, and snow climbing or hiking gear is variety of cakes and coffee, teas and soft drinks. of the owners of privately-owned summer included in the price. A seafood buffet for groups, freshly caught cottages in all parts of Iceland. This means that Tours depart twice daily at 9:30 or 14:00 arctic char (trout) and salmon are available by visitors in Iceland are certain to find one which from road F985, where you will begin the 16 special arrangement. Incentive groups can enjoy exactly matches their needs in terms of size, price, location and additional features. km drive up to Jöklasel Restaurant, which a delicious buffet lunch right on the glacier Each cottage bears witness to the taste of its also serves as a base. This is where guests while enjoying breathtaking views of both the owner. The surroundings range from coastal get their gear for their respective tours and glacier and the Atlantic Ocean. scenery, farm meadows to volcanic landscape – or be disturbed by other people. And finally, then, you’re off! Each tour is approximately even volcanoes. Cool days are never a problem the cottages are often located closer to major 3 to 3½ hours in length and there will be Tours need to be booked one day in when staying in a summer cottage in Iceland attractions in the countryside than more plenty of time for photo breaks and enjoying advance. because they’re equipped with heating systems. conventional kinds of accommodation. the view. It is possible to stop at Jöklasel for –asf Most of the 14,000 summer cottages in Glacier Jeeps Viator ehf –sv refreshments after the tour. Iceland are privately owned. Some of Viator’s

Silfurbraut 15 • 780 Hornafjörður cottages are equipped with a hot tub, either Ármúla 24 • 108 Reykjavik A Mountaintop Restaurant +354 478 1000 indoors or outdoors. A hot tub is the perfect +354 544 8990 Jöklasel Restaurant, at an altitude of 840m, [email protected] place to wind down after a busy day, or to enjoy [email protected] is the highest restaurant in Iceland and serves www.glacierjeeps.is the northern lights from mid-September to www.viator.is mid-April.

122 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 123 entrance; a sleeping and working room, called the skáli; the living room; the storage room, ÞjóðveldisbærinnThe Farm That Opens the Door to the Past likely used as a pantry; a small chamber elow the mountain of Sámsstaðamúli deserted is something of a mystery. The Hekla (probably sleeping room for the master and EldstóA South Coast Oasis Art for Food Café and Art & in HvolsvöllurRestaurant in Þjórsárdalur (Thjórsárdalur) in volcano violently erupted in the year 1104, mistress of the farm) and a toilet room. Two hey say that Iceland has the highest The Potter’s House SouthernB Iceland lies the medieval farm, spewing ash and lava and it is thought that, of these rooms form the hub of activity on the number of writers, artists and Occupying the old post office, right on the Þjóðveldisbærinn (Thjóthveldisbaerinn). It is at this time, Þjórsárdalur, with its 20 farms farm, the skali and the living room. Although musiciansT per-capita of any country on main road though town, Eldstó Art Café which may be enjoyed either inside or out a reconstruction of the houses at the nearby was evacuated. However, some doubt has it was also used as sleeping quarters, the skáli earth. Many of them congregate in the & Restaurant is also known as ‘The Potter’s when the weather permits. Wine and beer 12th century farm of Stöng. The farm was recently been cast on this chronology, with was important, as all manner of tasks were more well-known towns like Hveragerði, House’. It is here that Thor Sveinsson and are also available. constructed as a replica of Stöng farm as a part new evidence coming to light that seems to conducted there. The living room was also a his wife G. Helga Ingadóttir run a unique point to the Stöng farm and others continuing multi-purpose space, where the women wove, combination of café and gallery where you to be in operation after this event. Therefore it cared for the children and served the meals. can buy exquisite hand-turned pieces by the cannot be excluded that Hekla’s next eruptions master potter, Thor, and enjoy a properly in 1158 or even in 1300, may have led to brewed espresso or cappuccino, tea or hot Þjórsárdalur being abandoned. chocolate, light lunches and dinners. Helga is also a very talented jewellery Celebrating the 1100th Year Anniversary designer and is the creator of the glazes of Icelandic Settlement used on all the pottery at Eldstó Café. She During the preparations for the anniversary is quite the accomplished country, folk and of 1100 years of the settlement of Iceland, jazz singer herself. well-known architect Hördur Ágústsson, the Eldstó Café offers fresh soups and salads, foremost expert on pre-modern housing in Hafnarfjörður and Akureyri, but every home-made bread and pastries. Everything Iceland, was commissioned to reconstruct a village seems to have its fair share of resident is served in Thor and Helga’s ceramic full-scale replica of the Stöng farm. Ágústsson The Turf Church artists. The notable exception however, creations which you can purchase in the agreed and construction began during the Visitors to Þjóðveldisbærinn can also visit the turf is that Iceland has only a tiny handful of in-house gallery. The deep, rich colours of the year of celebrations, 1974 and was completed church, the most recently reconstructed building professional potters; so Hvolsvöllur is very ceramic glazes used on the pottery are made in 1977. Þjóðveldisbærinn was built to on the farm. It was erected to celebrate the 1,000- blessed to have one of Iceland’s top notch from Icelandic ash, (especially from Hekla of the celebrations for the 1100th anniversary demonstrate that the medieval settlers in year anniversary of Christianity in Iceland. The potters living right in it’s very midst. Volcano) rendering the pottery very resilient of the settlement of Iceland, celebrated in 1974. Iceland did not inhabit dirty hovels but lived design of the church was based on a church as well as dishwasher and oven proof. Mentioned in various guides to Iceland Þjóðveldisbærinn is a historical venue exhibiting in carefully built and stately buildings. The which was found during archeological research New on the menu this summer are such as Frommer’s and Lonely Planet, Eldstó examples of medieval Icelandic handicrafts and project was sponsored in part by the Prime in Stöng in 1986-1998. Remains of several other authentic Chilean empanadas, served with Art Café & Restaurant is well worth a visit as technology. It is open to visitors throughout the Minister’s office, the state power company and medieval churches were also used to design the an excellent home-made hot sauce made with you travel Iceland’s south coast this summer. summer from June to September. by the local municipality, Gnúpverjahreppur. replica. It was ordained in the year 2000. an intricate mix of aromatic fresh ingredients. –aJ Once you have tasted this you may well be –emv Sögualdarbærinn Eldstó Rising Out of Volcanic Ash Skeljastaðir - Another Medieval Farm spoiled for life and the store-bought variety Stöng farm was excavated in 1939 by a team Þjóðveldisbærinn is close to another long- Háleitisbraut 68 • 103 Selfoss will never taste the same again. Consider Austurvegi 2 • 860 Hvolsvelli of Nordic archeologists. The farm revealed abandoned medieval farm, Skeljastaðir +354 488 7713 yourself sufficiently warned. +354 482 1011 much about the construction of the structures (Skeljastathir). Skeljastaðir presents a classic [email protected] Wonderful, on a sunny summer evening, [email protected] and buildings on medieval farms in Iceland. example of medieval Icelandic architecture. www.thjodveldisbaer.is are Eldstó Café’s grilled marinated lamb www.eldsto.is However, just when and why the farm became The main building has six rooms: the or veal kebabs, with a fresh vegetable salad

124 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 125 + High Adventure at Iceland’s Southern Portal

Takinghile the numbers of tourists in Iceland You To The Edge A look at two local adventure companies Thorsmörk by Superjeep grows with every passing year, it’s who are based in Hvolsvöllur. The Thorsmörk Nature Reserve is a unique notW like it gets extremely crowded, even in the The advantage is immediately obvious. These area that is sheltered on three sides by the middle of July. Once outside of Reykjavik, the are guides who didn’t get their knowledge of glaciers Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull and numbers thin out considerably and if solitude the area from a book. Having lived most of Tindfjallajökull, with its own micro-climate, and wide open spaces are what you are looking their lives around Eyjafjallajökull Volcano no less. Getting there in a Superjeep is half for, you don’t have to drive very far to find them. they impress with their insight and first- the fun, of course. The tour stops at Gigjökull Drive 106 km out of Reykjavik along hand accounts that only locals would know. glacial tongue, where much of the action of the the south coast and there lies the town of With years of experience behind them, each 2010 volcano eruption took place. It was here Hvolsvöllur. Peaceful farmlands suddenly company is able to combine their talent that massive chunks of ice the size of houses and dramatically give way to almost vertical and passion with safety and skill. Like their and tons and tons of water roared down the slopes that reach down to the main road. Viking forefathers before them, they possess side of the mountain, overwhelming the small Kilometre after kilometre of endless black a deeper understanding of the challenges but deep glacial lagoon that was once there. sand beaches hug the shoreline; deserted that are to be found and are adept at finding After a lunch or dinner stop at Húsadalur, except for the occasional surfers who come to the hidden gems that can really make your South Coast Adventure the tour continues all the way into the valley, do battle with the waves. holiday outstanding. Family-run South Coast Adventure is based passing the Elf Cathedral and other curious out of the beautiful Hamragarðar Camping rock formations. challenges you to go right to the limit of - but and challenge yourself with an extreme Site next to Seljalandsfoss, perfectly situated not beyond - your personal comfort zone. day tour. South Iceland Adventure has the for tours into the Thorsmörk Nature Reserve Eyjafjallajökull by Superjeep excitement you are looking for. and trips to the top of Eyjafjallajökull. This For an extraordinary view of the of the whole Walk new ground is one place where its good to heed the volcanic system for miles around, the trip One of the most popular walking routes Iceland’s southern portal, advice of the experts and not try to make it to the top of Eyjafjallajökull by Superjeep in Iceland, the Fimmvörðuháls Hiking Hvolsvöllur - where the on your own. The Super Jeeps are not given is a must-do. You will get a chance to peer Trail comes alive on this tour called ‘Meet landscape is alive with change that name for nothing. They are specially into the still-warm crater at the summit, Eyjafjallajökull’. Explore the volcanic fissure and where the volcanoes follow outfitted to ford glacial rivers and get you and check out the mind-boggling collision and walk across freshly minted lava that the whims of the unwritten over some of the roughest terrain. course of fire and ice from the 2010 eruption exploded from the earth preceding the 2010 rules of nature. of this now famous volcano. eruption on Eyjafjallajökull. South Coast Adventure South Iceland Adventure

Öldugerði 17 • 860 Hvolsvelli Skálakot • 861 Hvolsvöllur South Iceland Adventure Canyoning in Fljótshlíð +354 867 3535 Edgy and just a little bit daring South Iceland Adventure has created a +354 770 2030 [email protected] South Iceland Adventure is for those of you short activity that’s easy to fit into your [email protected] www.southadventure.is who want just a tad more excitement and schedule–Canyoning! Feel of the force in www.icelandadventure.is edge to your Icelandic vacation in a way that the river, explore the inside of the canyon

126 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 127 A Weekend in the WestmanExperience Adventure, BirdlifeIslands and Volcanic Fallout

f the Westman Islands is not on your of Iceland. There are several restaurants and itinerary this summer, it really should cafés in town serving lunch and dinner, such sail right up be.I The once difficult to reach archipelago is as Café Maria, Café Kro, and Café Vulcano. close to the cliffs. island in recent years, now easily accessible via the new ferry route Höllinn is the main venue for events of all sizes From that vantage point, they their numbers are still in the that leaves from Landeyjarhöfn, transporting between 1963 and 1966. Now a protected nature in the Westman Islands and can provide lunch resemble noisy high-rise apartment buildings thousands, so your chances of catching sight you and your car to the island in just about reserve, it is possible to circle the island by boat or dinner for groups, large or small. with the occupants out on their balconies Action on Land and Sea of one of these darling birds is very high. 30 minutes. Or, if you prefer, there is a but going onto the island itself is off-limits. The sheer vertical walls that are characteristic having fun chatting, swooping from perch Looking for some action? Get your ya-ya’s small airport just minutes from the port In spite of Heimaey’s small size, there is plenty of many of the islands within the archipelago to roost and of course taking turns with their out with a high-paced adventure tour in and Pompeii of the North which can fly you over in about 6 minutes to see and do, so staying overnight in one of are home to thousands of kittywakes, fulmars obligatory nest-sitting duties. The waters that around the archipelago by joining a 90-minute Round out your tour of the Westman Islands on a little 6-seater plane. Whichever the island’s hotels, guest houses, self-contained and gannets. Viking Tours offers 90-minute surround the island are outstanding shades of rib-safari (RIB is the acronym for rigid with a walk around town to see where the mode of transportation you prefer, getting cottages or camp sites would not be out of order boat trips around the island, enabling you to a deep turquoise colour that you would never inflatable boats which are used increasingly for lava flow stopped in 1973. Partially engulfed there is all part of the fun. to give you a real feel for this very special corner expect to find in the ocean at this latitude, tourism in Iceland), exploring caves and maybe buildings can still be seen and there is even giving the impression of an island dipped in even heading out to see that famous newcomer an ongoing archaeological dig that visitors Home to Man and Birds-Lots of Them crystal-turquoise ink and making island, Surtsey. Or perhaps you’d like to tour welcome to help out with. Over 400 homes Heimaey, literally ‘Home Island’, is the biggest for a truly memorable the island on one of those curious vehicles and buildings were destroyed by the 1973 and only inhabited land in this chain of 14 islands experience. called a Segway Personal Transporter that are eruption and the aim of the project called including the more recent Surtsey, which new to the Westman Islands and an ideal and ‘Pompei of the North’ is to excavate at least 7 erupted up from the sea bed fun way of getting around. to 10 houses, giving us a glimpse into the lives of those affected by this largest natural disaster Killer Whales and the Priest of the Sea in Iceland in recent memory. In the summer months, the Westman Islands –emv Vestmannaeyjabær are home to pods of killer whales and, of

course, the illustrious puffins which can be Ráðhúsinu • 900 Vestmannaeyjum seen out on the sea during the day or hanging +354 488 2000 out near their burrows in the evening. While [email protected] there have been fewer puffins arriving in the www.vestmannaeyjar.is

128 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 129 the freshest ingredients available: Lobster soup, with a hint of Cognac topped with coriander cream; VikingExperience the ToursHaunting Music of of Bird, the Man andWestman Whale Islands ElegantDelicious dishes in theEating old town of Eyrabakki at Rauða Húsið Oven baked bacalao in olive and tomatconcasse; ountainous, mysterious, and one The Herólfur ferry, at its brand new port hat is better than a succulent Danish Merchant in 1765, now houses the Seafood trio with mixed vegetables and of those places on virtually every just outside of the town of Hvolsvöllur, plies lunch or a seafood dinner on your Árnes Folk Museum. potato puree. Or you might even like to tourist’sM wish list. Seen from the mainland, the waters that separate the islands from the travelsW in the southern part of Iceland? The Rauða húsið, The Red House, is one of the taste oven-roasted cod with slowly roasted the jagged archipelago rises dramatically mainland, making the easy 25–30 minute Rauða Húsið restaurant is renowned for its most beautiful houses in the village, standing from the horizon, breaking the horizon of crossing several times a day. Now you have delicious seafood dishes, not least the fresh by the coastline. Guests will appreciate Iceland’s south coast with a sort of ‘come no excuse not to see the Westman Islands! lobster. You could even take a special day- the sense of history within the restaurant hither’ look that you cannot evade. trip from Reykjavik to Eyrarbakki. and its ambiance, with its windows and The Circle Tour lovely wooden floor. The A fun and refreshing way to sight-see in the house is quite spacious and Westman Islands, Viking Tours’ specially has about 200 seats but is designed tour boat takes you around the not crowded, making dining main island of Heimaey, 2 or 3 times a day both comfortable and suitable in summer. for groups. It used to belong The 90-minute tour gives you a chance to Guðmunda Nielsen. She to peak into caves, observe puffins and built its oldest part in 1919, tomatoes and hollandaise sauce. Pair a bottle concludes with the haunting saxophone after returning home from of fine wine with any of the menu’s offerings music which fills the singing cave of Copenhagen where she studied and cap it off with one of the Rauða húsið’s Klettshellur, renowned for its superb acoustics and performed beautifully by Sigurmundur Einarsson, director of Viking Tours. 10 million puffins can’t be wrong The Coach Tour In staggering numbers, these adorable birds Another delightful way to explore the island flock to the archipelago year after year, is by Viking Tours’ coach which departs from the first arriving on schedule around the the main harbour every day, year round. The 12th–14th of April. “The best time of day Old World Village Charm guided tour takes you to the still-warm Eldfell to see them is in the late afternoon and early Eyrarbakki was once one of the most crater which erupted over the whole island in evening when the puffin parents return to important trading centres in Iceland but 1973, the effects of which are easily observable their burrows after spending the day fishing has evolved into a charming and tranquil throughout Heimaey. You will also get a on the sea”, says Sigurmundur. village of less than 600 inhabitants. chance to observe puffins at Stórhöfði. Many of its houses were built in the early Whale watching in the Westman Islands 1900’s and the village has maintained a With whole families of Killer Whales and turn-of-the-century, freewheeling charm dolphins arriving in July, the Westman and atmosphere. Eyrabakki boasts many Islands is a great place for whale watching, beautifully restored fine timber buildings. boasting the largest population of these sea The oldest of them, The House, built by a mammals in Iceland. Viking Tours can business management. She was considered signature desserts. Serving a variety of organise a whale watching tour for you on to be an exceptional lady and opened her delicious fish and meat dishes, guests will request. retail shop right after building the house. find the restaurant’s cuisine is a nice mixture All Viking Tours trips begin and end of both international and Icelandic, but at the cosy Café Kró down at the main Langoustines from the Birthplace of local ingredients figure prominently. harbour, where you can take in the 55 Lobster Fishing in Iceland minute film about the 1973 eruption and Lobster fishing in Iceland was born off the Return to Reykjavik with a Full learn how this singular event changed the shores of Eyrarbakki in 1954. Icelanders Stomach face of the Westman Islands forever. were late to discover the various seafood Rauða Húsið is a popular spot for travellers delicacies. In fact it was not till the mid- returning to Reykjavik or wanting a pleasant See you this summer 20th century that the locals discovered that evening trip, as it is just 50 km from the in the Westman Islands! not only was the small Langoustine lobster capital, with an easy and beautiful drive. –emv edible, it was delicious! –amb Viking Tours Rauða Húsið

Tangagötu 7 • 900 Vestmannaeyjum Menu Suggestions Búðarstíg 4 • 820 Eyrarbakka +354 488 4884 One of the most popular dishes besides the +354 483 3333 [email protected] lobster which the restaurant is famous for [email protected] www.vikingtours.is is the Catch of the Day, which consists of www.raudahusid.is three different seafood dishes prepared from

130 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 131 TheBe warned! Chocolate Café Mika is a Chocolate Innovator Lover’s Paradise

chef and chocolatier, Mika finds ways to Unique Ice Cream Flavour Blends put this delicacy into unexpected forms, Naturally, you’ll find ice cream here, too. The creatingA whole new taste experiences. difference is that Mika mixes flavours, blending Mika offers a special thick drinking them with chocolate, nuts, fruits and more so chocolate. Each week, he selects one of a range that each level has a different taste. The clever of chocolates from many different parts of the blend makes for an ice cream unlike any you world, each with a different flavour. have tried before. If you’re like me, you’ll want to come back for more! Lobster Hot Dogs Mika’s latest creation is a delicious hot dog, Pralines with a Difference made from healthy bread rolls, the popular Whilst ice cream isn’t something you can easily langoustine lobster, tomatoes and onions, take with you, Mika’s pralines are a delicacy you covered with tangy chilli and a white will want to stock up on. You can take them in chocolate sauce that leaves the taste buds presentation boxes or eat some with your meals. tingling with its flavour. You’ll need a cast iron will to get these home Open for lunch and dinner, the menu without eating them. Again, you’ll find new changes with the season, to take advantage of varieties on an almost-monthly basis.

the freshest local vegetables, Icelandic cheeses, –asf arctic char, langoustines and meats, blended Café Mika into mouth-watering meals for individuals or Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt groups. A selection of drinks is also available +354 896 6450 to round of your meal, which you can also eat [email protected] outside in the sunshine, enjoying Reykholt’s on Facebook beautiful nature. Iceland Riverjet Brings Thrills and Fun to the River BjarkarhóllA Knitting has Everything Mecca Needed to Knit Sightseeing the Viking way he Vikings first travelled up rivers with only in length and degree of thrills. The hey’re warm. They’re chic. They repel accessories and accoutrements are available, their wooden boats over 1,000 years 45 minute ride in the 11-seat boat takes rain and they remind you of your including a Fair Trade product: a special agoT but their spirit is still here! you through spectacular lava canyons, IcelandicT experience. What makes them range of buttons created in Nepal. These The boats are better; oars have been beautiful scenery and white water rapids. special is that you can also make them add a unique feature to your creation. replaced with an engine and these Vikings are The extreme tour takes about 2 hours, with yourself. The Icelandic sweater. Woollen gloves are common but how a whole lot nicer. Now you can go ‘sightseeing bigger waves and stronger rapids, kicking Bjarkarhóll in Reykholt on the way about a glove to hold a cold beer can? the Viking way’ with Iceland Riverjet. the sightseeing up a notch! Trips run from to Geysir and Gulfoss has ready-made Certainly a conversation piece! For those Jet boating up the Hvítá River below the April to October every day and every hour. sweaters in many different styles. If you with poor circulation, the fingerless Gullfoss waterfall is extreme in excitement and Iceland Riverjet is the first commercial enjoy knitting and creating something gloves are a boon. thrills! Having no physical requirements, this jet boat company in Europe, founded in special, they also have kits to take home Handmade jewellery and natural adventure is for everybody over 10 years old! 2010 by the Norwegian, Cato Bergnord. He with you. These are complete with all you cosmetics make this a gift shop with a wide The boats are custom-built from thick has over 17 years of white water experience need to make a genuine Icelandic wool range of specialities to choose from. You can aluminium and powered by specially and is a licensed jet boat pilot from New sweater. The patterns come in a range of also order from them online - so once others adapted V8-400 hp engines. With a water Zealand. Take a look at their website for styles for men, women and children. start asking about your creation, you have a jet instead of a propeller, they can travel in further information and a movie of a trip! This is a one-stop shop for everything ready source of supply. depths as shallow as 10 cm at speeds up to 75 associated with knitting - a knitting – km/hr! They are highly manoeuvrable and –asf Bjarkarhóll asf Iceland Riverjet mecca. Whether you try a pre-packed kit can safely jump waves, go through rapids or use one of the multitude of patterns Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt and do 360 degree spins on a coin. Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt available in the shop, you’ll find all you +354 587 6655 The riverjet tour lasts half a day with a +354 863 4506 need to create your own wool sweater here. [email protected] pick-up at your hotel in Reykjavik to the [email protected] Wools from different countries sit www.garn.is new Bjarkarhóll in Reykholt. There are www.icelandriverjet.is alongside the classic Icelandic wool. All the two tours: standard and extreme, varying 132 133 greenhouses in the area. Hot springs apparently do come in handy, after The Gorgeous South – Green Energy and Gourmet Meals all: you can even bake the traditional rye bread Harpa Reykholt’s Hotspot in them, as Steinunn at Kaffi Klettur does! he south of Iceland is absolutely one of the island’s most beautiful regions. With And speaking of bread... itsT wide plains and magnificent scenery, it is Whatever your interest in geothermal Welcomes You a real feast for the eyes as well as possessing energy, Reykholt has a hot spot that you do many of those majestic Icelandic landmarks: not want to miss. Kaffi Klettur, the local waterfalls, volcanoes and hot springs. Oh yes, bar and restaurant with its mouth-watering and greenhouses. A lot of greenhouses. menu is more than enough reason to stop by. MUSIC – CULTURE – GUIDED TOURS Where does it come from? Reykholt in Biskupstungur is a beautiful little town on the Golden Circle that has plenty to offer to those who visit it. It is a convenient Guided tours in Harpa Concerts in Kaldalón all summer stop on your travels around the south region, with a guesthouse and a camping site, a Harpa presents concerts in Kaldalón at 17.00 by the Classical swimming pool and facilities for plenty of Every day at 11.00 and 15.30 Concert Company of Reykjavík – a journey through traditional outdoor activity. Icelandic music. Price: ISK 1500 (10 Euros) Tickets on sale at www.harpa.is and at the box office in Harpa. The tour lasts 45 minutes and is in English. It takes you on an interesting walk around the many facilities of Harpa, through the Excellent restaurants and shops main halls and spaces and gives you an opportunity to take a look at its unique Enjoy dining at the outstanding „à la carte“ restaurant and bar Known for top-notch cooking and romantic architectural features. Kolabrautin on the fourth floor. And for a cup of coffee or quick surroundings, the restaurant works in the snack visit Munnharpan on the ground floor. Also on the ground spirit of the Slow Food philosophy, honouring Book special tours at [email protected] or level you’ll find 12 Tónar, a music shop with an extensive selection fair business trades and using fresh, organic [email protected] of music, and Epal, a Nordic design shop that also locally-produced ingredients. The result is or tel. +354 528 5009. Discounts for offers souvenirs from Harpa. an utterly delicious cuisine with dishes that large groups. range from traditional Icelandic food like freshly-caught trout with locally-grown SUMMER FESTIVAL IN HARPA vegetables to more international dishes like VIDEO A new documentary featuring Icelandic Series of classical concerts in Harpa, July 8–10 bands by Árni Sveinsson Three concerts in Eldborg featuring great musicians: - shows weekdays at 19.00 in Kaldalón. Price: ISK 1500 (10 Euros) July 8th Maria João Pires, Maxim Vengerov and AMAZING ICELAND St. Christopher orchestra Reykholt is rich in geothermal energy and A documentary on Iceland´s nature and July 9th the first greenhouse in the region heated in wildlife - shows weekdays at 13.00 in The St. Christopher Orchestra this way was built there in the thirties. The Kaldalón. Conductor: Donatas Katkus hot spring of Reykholt is very old and there Price: ISK 1500 (10 Euros) July 10th are stories of how people would come from Maria João Pires and the Art Vivo string quartet the nearby church at Skálholt to block it, partly because occasionally animals would the homemade lasagna. Everything is home- The Classical Passport is available now fall into it, but also out of a superstition baked and make sure you don’t leave without at the Harpa Box Office at a special price. since, naturally, boiling hot water coming tasting their cakes and desserts, rumour has out of the ground could only have its origin it they’re sublime! Steinunn’s kleinur are so in one place! popular, she ships them all over the country. We look forward to seeing you in Harpa Eventually though, despite all superstition, –HÞ Kaffi Klettur the area became inhabited early in the 20th Tel. +354 528 5050 century precisely because of its geothermal Reykholti • 801 Selfossi energy. Even though it has actually been +354 486 1310 capped today, the old hot spring still erupts [email protected] www.harpa.is every 10 minutes and the water is utilized kaffiklettur.is to heat both residents’ homes and the

134 www.icelandictimes.com ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS POR 55576 06/11 TheSólheimar: Oldest Where Culture, Organics Eco-Village and People Thrive ólheimar is hardly the kind of place in reflection. Wander amongst the sculptures self-catering kitchen or the barbecue on the exhibition in the Ingustofa art gallery, with which you arrive by accident. But take a in the village centre, and then set out on veranda. A geothermally-heated pool and an Icelandic folklore and fairy tale theme. Stwenty minute detour en route to Gullfoss or a circular walk which takes you up to the hot tub are nearby and open to guesthouse Sólheimar was founded in 1930 by Sesselja Geysir, or an afternoon trip from Reykjavík, hilltops for stunning views and down across visitors. Hreindís Sigmundsdóttir and today is home and you will be very glad you did. Nestled the wetlands bird sanctuary on a boardwalk Sesseljuhús, an educational and exhibition to people with special needs and others. The in a small valley, the village remains tucked before emerging through shaded woodland, centre in the village, is a distinctive villagers with special needs will always be at away until – at the very last bend – the turf a rarity in the Icelandic countryside. You building which can also be rented out for the heart of Sólheimar, and they are great roofs of the houses begin to appear as if from can walk through a living exhibition of conferences and corporate events. The nowhere. different tree species cultivated at Iceland’s building showcases sustainable architecture With a population of around 100, only organic nursery and arboretum, and and is open to visitors on weekdays. Sheep Sólheimar holds many surprises. Over perhaps choose one or two for your garden. wool was used for insulation and the exterior 30,000 visitors a year have already discovered Two guesthouses provide comfortable cladding is driftwood. It is powered by a this special place, many returning time and accommodation for those staying longer. combination of renewable energy sources, again. Being one of Iceland’s largest organic a cosy place then think again – Sólheimar’s There are rooms with or without en suite, including an innovative generator that 2005 and holds weekly Sunday services vegetable producers would be reason enough café is geothermally heated and the as well as self-contained mini-apartments produces electricity from the temperature throughout the year. It regularly welcomes to drop by and stock up on tomatoes, peppers greenhouse is as warm as the welcome you with their own kitchenette. For groups, difference between hot and cold water. visiting choirs, and there are Saturday and chutney, to name but a few ingredients. will receive there. The name of the café, full board accommodation is available, Another noteworthy building, and one concerts from June to August. This was the first place in the Nordic which translates as ‘green coffee pot’, is a while individuals can opt for breakfast on of the newest in the village, is the church, There is always plenty going on at countries to cultivate produce organically. reminder of its green credentials, because request. For other meals, guests can use the which was completed and consecrated in Sólheimar and a diverse lecture programme hosts. Many have special talents in art and in But the village shop is much more than a from the coffee and cake to the beer and includes upcoming lectures on Icelandic other areas. You’ll meet Sólheimar people in general store and an organic greengrocer wine, almost everything is organic. The water, the revival of the birch tree in the café and around the village, and they’ll for residents and visitors. Here you can find Green Coffee Pot is a meeting place for Iceland, and fish and fishing in the south of brighten up your day. You can find their candles, weaving, handmade soap, art and residents and visitors all year round, but Iceland. There is also a workshop on nature work in the shop and take home something ceramics, as well as toys and gifts carefully visit on a weekend afternoon in summer and photography, an educational walk on fungi, to remember your time in Sólheimar. crafted from wood. Sólheimar has its own you will find yourself in the midst of a lively a jazz concert and a violin concert, all in July bakery too, which makes the delicious bread entertainment programme that comprises and August. There will be two fascinating –LK Sólheimar and cakes that can be found in the shop and everything from well-known pop and rock exhibitions in Sólheimar throughout the

the café. The shop is the perfect place to find musicians to classical concerts, and choirs. summer. In the sports hall cum theatre, Sólheimar • 801 Selfoss a unique present or keepsake. A day in Sólheimar is not nearly enough. there will be an exhibition connected to +354 480 4400 The social hub of Sólheimar is its café, Stay a little longer, when most visitors have the 80th birthday of the Sólheimar theatre, [email protected] which happens to be in a large greenhouse. returned home. In splendid isolation, it is which is the oldest and biggest amateur www.solheimar.is If a café in a greenhouse does not sound like a wonderful place for relaxation or quiet theatre in Iceland. Then there will be an

136 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 137 Where Children and Animals Get to Know One Another

Slakkiummer is here. The newborn lambs animals ofZoo all kinds and to look at the birds and Play CentreIt’s not just the animals, though. There are Slakki’s indoor are skipping and jumping in the fields. and fish in their own environments. other games to play which unite the family zoo is open every SThe flowers are blooming in all their glory in a fun entertainment such as the putting day throughout the and Iceland has turned green once again. A Safe and Fun Activity Day green and crazy golf. summer months The volcanic eruptions have only served There are animals of all sizes from horses until the end of to fertilise the grass and the blue skies are to mice, pigs to ponies and everything in Relax with Restaurant Refreshments August. It is one encouraging everyone to get out into the between. Some are inside and others can Naturally, when you’re staying all day in of Iceland’s secrets countryside once again. be enjoyed in the gardens. The kittens, for a centre such as Slakki, refreshments are that is being revealed Of course, the countryside is synonymous example, are a favourite inside their own very important and here you will find a on the Internet, with with animals. In Laugarás, close to Skálholt little house, where children can hold and restaurant and café filled with home-made pictures and videos being cathedral is the Slakki Zoo and Play Centre, pet them for as long as they wish - and that snacks, including delicious hamburgers with posted by satisfied customers which is one of the most popular animal can be a long time. salad and apple cakes with cream. and their happy children. If you’re centres. It would be a mistake to think This is a safe environment where parents The café is in a small turf house, with driving the Golden Circle trip, see for this was just for children, however. It has can relax, knowing their children will plenty of seating outside where you can yourself. It’s only a few minutes activities for all the family, adults included be enjoying themselves without harm. enjoy the sun and the yummy, locally-made off the main road to Geysir. and it makes a great day out in a place where Families often make a day of it, as there is Kjöris icecream. –asf Slakki the simple joys of life can be indulged in by plenty to do. Besides the animals, there is a Stuffed animals may be fine at home, everyone. large aquarium and many different species but nothing can replace the experience of Launrétt I • 801 Selfossi For the children to be able to experience of birds to enjoy. Even farmers come with holding or playing with live animals. No +354 486 8783 animals close up, to be able to touch and their families - often wondering why their computer or TV can take their place, either, [email protected] hold many of them, is such a treat nowadays. children love it so much when they have so it’s no surprise that many families return www.slakki.is They love the opportunity to play with animals at home! again and again.

138 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 139 Specialities and Banquets A selection of warming Icelandic specialities makes up the lunch buffet and varies HoflandsetriðA Fine Example of Icelandic Home CookingRestaurant at its Best from day to day (week-days only) and is he ‘flower town’ of Hveragerði is home give Hoflandsetrið’s pizzas a surprisingly popular amongst locals. A banquet room to Hoflandsetrið Restaurant, with its creative twist. The ‘Heilsuveisla’ pizza, with comfortably seats groups of up to 60 guests. warmT and inviting interior, imaginative pizzas a healthy crust made with five whole grains and traditional Icelandic home cooking. and a hint of cummin and sesame seeds, endows this pizza with a wonderful flavour that you won’t find anywhere else.

Three generations of the Hofland family a dip in a geothermally-heated river. work side-by-side to make this one of the Whatever your pace and level of fitness, most successful restaurants in South Iceland. Iceland Activities will meet you there. –emv GeothermalWhatever Your Pace, Iceland Activities Cycling Has a Ride for You Hoflandsetrið

celand Activities may well be the only to all our favourite places that we have Iceland on your own Breiðumörk 2 • 810 Hveragerði tour company in Iceland that specialises grown up with,” says Ulfar Andrésson, 23, Cycling around Iceland is a healthy and Pizzas with Pizazz +354 483 4467 inI tours and activities exclusively in the who along with his sister, Sólveig and their enjoyable way to explore the country on your The clever use of bananas and pineapple in [email protected] Hengill Geothermal Area, famous for its mom Steinunn are an integral part of the own. You can rent your own quality bike for the ‘Janis Joplin’ or the ‘Brjálaður Banana’ www.hoflandsetrid.is natural hot springs. It’s also a company family business. anywhere from 4 hours to 3 days or longer (crazy banana) with pepperoni and bananas that truly is ‘family-run’ in every sense of and it comes complete with bicycle helmet the word. “We are a sports-minded family Your Pace is our Pace and a suggested itinerary. who have been exploring the Hengill area Iceland Activities’ guided biking, together for the last 25 years. When our hiking and walking tours in and around ‘Hotsprings around Hveragerði’ RiversideElegant accommodation Restaurant and dining on Iceland’s & SouthSpa Coast kids were small we took them with us on Hveragerði and the Hengill Geothermal Guided Bike Tour n case you were not expecting to white linen table cloths and relaxing Iceland Activities offers an exclusive eat well outside of Reykjavik, a atmosphere overlooking the Ölfusá guided bike tour in and around Hveragerði fabulousI dining experience awaits you River, all combine to make this one of and then takes you to observe the new at the Riverside Restaurant at Hotel the outstanding establishments in South geothermal park that was created by an Selfoss. A top chef preparing elegantly Iceland, on par with any of the best earthquake in 2008. Have fun boiling eggs prepared meals, an attentive staff, crisp restaurants in Reykjavik. in one of the many hot springs and end the day relaxing at the Hveragerði swimming pool. Got kids? Iceland Activities has child- sized bikes, activities and tours to suit the youngest members of your group. The four star Hotel Selfoss offers 99 Gearing it up a notch spacious double rooms, 4 conference If you yearn for still more, Iceland rooms, in-house cinema and stage as well Activities also offers surfing on south as facilities for the handicapped. The Iceland’s famous black sand beaches or wonderfully relaxing Riverside Spa caters group activities especially geared to young to all your indulgences with its sauna and people. Have fun this summer with Iceland steam room, hot pools, rainwater showers Activities! and a relaxing room with bar. –emv –emv Iceland Activities Hótel Selfoss every trip, every summer - biking, hiking, area are rated from easy to strenuous Mánamörk 3-5 • 810 Hveragerði Eyravegi 2 • 800 Selfossi fishing, camping - we have done it all,” and suitable for all ages. Travel over +354 777 6263 +354 480 2500 says Andrés Ulfarsson, who founded the 1,100 year-old sheep paths high up [email protected] [email protected] company in 2010. “It was only natural for in the mountains that criss-cross this www.icelandactivities.is www.hotelselfoss.is us to launch this business, taking visitors magnificent volcanic area and then take

140 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 141 If You Can Walk Up Stairs, You Can Join a Glacier Walk FindingIcelandic Mountain the Guides Essence of Iceland Before taking inexperienced mountaineers tanding on top of a glacier is a goal you’d glacier and Mýrdalsjökull glacier, as well as up to these treasures of Iceland, IMG imagine only experienced mountain several day tours from Skaftafell National had to make sure that all possible safety Sclimbers are able to achieve, but it is Park which connects you to Europe’s largest measures were taken, which is why actually simpler than you’d think – it is even glacier, Vatnajökull. But why would anyone they’ve implemented a strenuous training achievable in a day’s trip from Reykjavik. want to visit such a foreign and unforgiving programme for all their guides. The But one cannot, of course, simply walk to landscape? For Leifur Örn Svavarsson, guide educational programme entails 27 days the top of a treacherous glacier without the and co-founder of IMG, who has scaled the of direct training and exams, followed by help of experienced guides who’ve mapped glaciers hundreds of times and never gets over 100 days under direct and indirect out every crack in the ice and know the tired of it, the answer is simple: “It is like supervision, as well as first-aid courses. These steps have paid off, as is made evident by IMG‘s accident free history and the awards they’ve won for education and safety. The range of tours is designed to fit the different needs of Iceland’s visitors. “If you can walk up stairs, you can reach a part of a glacier with us. While scaling the tallest peak of Iceland, which has a quite rapid ascent and a 12–14 hour hike, requires some physical fitness and hiking experience, we try to have alternatives which suit all our customers’ wishes, ranging from a few hours light hike up to quite challenging, but equally rewarding hikes,” says Leifur. In addition IMG offer combination tours which take you horseback riding, hot-spring difference a single misstep can make. For stepping into a different world. Standing on bathing and sight-seeing, as well as glacial over seventeen years Icelandic Mountain top of pure ice, hearing the creaks and flow adventure tours on 4x4. Guides have been finding ways to make of water underneath, seeing the caves and –vag Mountain Guides these imposing phenomena reachable to all crevasses gets you as close to the essence of those who wish to explore them. Iceland as possible. We had been doing it Bankastræti 2 • 101 Reykjavik since we were young and simply felt as if you +354 587 9999 Step Into a Different World can never really experience Iceland without [email protected] Icelandic Mountain Guides (IMG) offer trying it, which is why we established www.mountainguides.is day tours from Reykjavik to Sólheimajökull Icelandic Mountain Guides,” says Leifur.

142 www.icelandictimes.com ICELAND’S WHALE WATCHING TOUR #1

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