A whole section on ICELANDIC eastern The Reindeer Centre and Guesthouse of TIMES East Iceland Tourism, Culture and Business Issue 5, Oct 2010 www.icelandictimes.com Among the deep eastern fjords

A Microcosmos at the Edge of the Arctic

The Land of Reindeer, Deep Fjords and Rich Culture

Enchanting East Iceland Valley near Ólafsfjörður

Autumn in Uthlið

Iceland’s Coat of Many Colors

Iceland’s Coat of Many Colors Lights displays in the past few weeks....so who knows what the As the colors of summer fade future holds? and Iceland slips into her winter coat, a page is turned and a new This issue of Icelandic Times pays chapter on the Iandscape begins. particular attention to the East Each season in Iceland has its own of Iceland, with its deep fjords, unique attributes and the winter majestic mountains and fertile season will no doubt have a few inland. The East has a countless pleasant surprises in store for us number of interesting sites to visit, this year as well. invigorating routes to walk, and cultural wonders to visit. Especially The summer was truly memorable during the winter festival Days as we watched temperatures rise of Darkness, when everything to very pleasant highs in the 20’sC connected to the term darkness Frozen (80’s F) throughout the country for is celebrated, whether its ghost waterfall days on end, much to our delight stories, “dark drinks” or a romantic Öxaráfoss as well as the delight of our many candle light dinners. The quiet ANTIBIOTICS FOR COLD visitors. Eyafjallajökull which towns in the East are especially Publisher: Design and Layout: roared to life earlier in the year among the most therapeutic and Interland ehf. Ingólfur Júlíusson and made headlines around the relaxing places you could ever Postbox 514 [email protected] world, shrank back considerably hope to experience. 121 Reykjavík Text by: just in time for summer and has (+354) 534-1880 Vignir Andri Guðmundsson Type: Underwear - Gunnar - Hallgerður - Langbrók barely made a peep since that If you have already landed in www.landogsaga.is [email protected] time. Iceland, we wish you a safe and www.icelandictimes.is Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir Colors: Dark grey pleasant journey and hope that Editor and General Manager: [email protected] Material: Merino wool. Light and comfy It has been an exciting year so within these pages you’ll find new Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Marie Valgardsson far on many fronts in Iceland, ideas and helpful information to [email protected] [email protected] Weight: 190g. Sizes: XS-XXL and more excitement is expected make your trip more memorable. Sales and Marketing: Hafdis Erla Hafsteinsdóttir with the possible dawning of a For those pondering where to Elín Björg Ragnarsdóttir [email protected] new “Age of Auroras” which has go over the holidays or over the [email protected] Árni Daniel Júliusson been predicted for 2010-2014. We New Year- make it special, make it [email protected] ICELANDIC DESIGN have already witnessed quite a memorable-experience Iceland in few rather magnificent Northern her winter coat. Front page: Reindeer in East-Iceland Tim Vollmer The next issue of Icelandic Times will be published in November/December 2010. The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or ICELANDIC their agents. Though the content of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content. TIMES Tourism, Culture and Business 2 Cool and Trendy Knitting Iceland

Iceland has a long tradition of wool and knitting which means there The homepage clear cut, easy to use to go to Iceland next summer. knitting. From the 16th century is a whole lot of variety available, from and tastefully designed. The main Knitting Iceland also offers a walking and well into the 20th, home modern versions of the traditional focus of Knitting Iceland, aside from tour in Reykjavik´s city center where knitting was a vital part of survival, classic woolen sweeter to obscure selling patterns, is to offer knitting participants are taken deep into the and was done by men as well a combinations of color, patterns and tours to Iceland where knitters get a buzzing world of Icelandic knitting, women. Knitting provided warm methods that look more like a piece unique opportunity to delve into the going from shop to shop to meet clothing in the cold climate, and from Salvador Dali, than something rich local knitting scene. The knitting designers and get a taste of the the surplus could be sold abroad. one might actually wear. tours combine sightseeing, hiking Icelandic knitting culture in a nutshell. But a lot has changed since Knitting is one of the most popular and museum visits with knitting as Tour participants are welcome to lived in turf houses, crafts in Iceland and because of its well as classes where participants keep up with the latest trends in where their entire economy was popularity, everyone has their own learn techniques embedded deep in Icelandic knitting by dropping in on based on fish and lived under the opinion about it. Knitting magazines the Icelandic knitting tradition. In the Knitting Iceland homepage every Danish crown. In the latter part of and books abound and big and small addition, Knitting Iceland takes you to now and then the 20th century knitting became craft shows are held regularly around see local knitters and yarnies, and of The web zine has a good variety more of a hobby and was even the country, where knitters of all ages course provides experienced teachers of patterns for sweaters, shawls, for a period of time considered come together to share their work and guides. This perfect combination doll outfits and mittens. The aim outdated and old fashioned. with others and exchange ideas. of craft, nature and culture provides of the ‘zine’ is to publish patters by However, knitting in Iceland has The general interest and widespread a superb and inspiring choice for independent designers, from Iceland undergone many changes in the last popularity of knitting creates a vibrant knitting enthusiasts who want to and elsewhere, thus bringing the decade or so. More and more people knitting culture (some might even call combine their love of yarn and Icelandic influence to knitters all over have started to knit and homemade it knitting mania, since it is claimed to needles with traveling and culture. the world. All patterns are sold for woolen goods can be seen everywhere; be highly addictive; once you finish The first tours took place in 2010 moderate prices as PDF downloads. sweaters, mittens, hats, shawls, you your first pair of mittens, you are and were an instant success, so the Every pattern features an interesting name it, it’s out there again. Suddenly hooked!) Iceland truly is a great place schedule for the upcoming tours in background story that is in some way at the beginning of the 21st century, to be a knitter. winter 2010 and in 2011 is now ready. or another related to Iceland. Good knitting has become trendy and hip When the World Wide Web invaded The tour will include, for example, a directions as well as a handful of again. Young people wear woolen our lives, knitting went online. In luxurious spa tour, two hiking tours, a lovely photos are provided. The site sweaters under their jackets when 2009, two knitting addicts came retreat for knitters and their kids, and is available in Icelandic, English and going out on a Saturday night, and a together and established the website a tour that goes all the way to the Faroe French and can be recommended to homemade hat or mittens is just as Knitting Iceland, an online magazine Islands. Each tour features a renowned anyone interested in the noble art of fashionable an accessory as the latest where you can buy knitting patterns guest teacher, some of whom are even knitting. So, knit away everyone... trend from Calvin Klein. Designers by independent designers and superstars in the knitting world. So from all over Iceland, both men and knitting kits or you can even book there is a lot to choose from for all More info can be found on www. women, are now experimenting with one of the company’s knitting tours! knitting enthusiasts who are planning knittingiceland.com 4 Elding Tours Imagine Peace in Viðey Island

From October onwards a giant encouragement, inspiration and a where Lennon’s music and culinary campaign for world peace. Elding beam of light will tower above sense of solidarity in a world now preferences are united into one also offers you the unique chance the Reykjavík skyline serving as a filled with fear and confusion.“ Elding spectacular show. Some of Iceland’s to visit some of the earth largest reminder that peace on earth is a Reykjavik Whale Watching now finest musicians will perform some mammals just a few minutes sail goal we must never lose sight of. offers you the unique chance to visit of Lennon’s most beloved hits while from downtown Reykjavík. Don’t The tower is the conceptualization the tower and the beautiful island you enjoy unique dishes prepared let the cold weather deter you – the of renowned artist Yoko Ono and with Lennon’s favorite ingredients whales are worth it, and besides is dedicated to her late husband On which it is located. Viðey is less based on his lyrics and lifestyle. Elding will provide you with warm John Lennon, one of the most than two square kilometers in size, The night will be completed with a overalls. For further information beloved musicians of all time and but makes up for its small size with journey through the life of Lennon and booking visit www.elding.is an eternal advocate for world rich history and beautiful scenery. In and Ono and their continuing Tel: +354 555 3565 peace. The tower will be lit on the Videyjarstofa restaurant you’ll John Lennon’s birthday, October have a chance to experience the 9th, and will remain lit until the island’s historic atmosphere while date of his death, December you enjoy the refreshments there is 8th. The Tower consists of 15 on offer. Elding offers daily guided searchlights with prisms that act tours to the Peace Tower in Videy, as mirrors, reflecting the column where you’ll visit the tower’s base of light vertically into the sky and enjoy stories about its creation, from a huge “wishing well,” which concept and inner workings, a has the words “Imagine Peace” unique chance to visit one of the inscribed on it in 24 languages. most ambitious art pieces in the world first hand. For those who At the tower‘s unveiling Ono want to get the full John Lennon remarked that she hoped that the experience is sure to ask about the tower „will give light to the strong Lennon tribute in Viðey on selected wishes of World Peace from all dates in October through December corners of the planet and give – A truly unforgettable evening 6 www.alafoss.is

The hotel’s immediate surroundings are quite remarkable and it is well worth exploring the historical background of the site, which once housed a prominent trading centre. Hotel Budir in Snæfellsnes peninsula An Unforgettable Stay Underneath a Glacier

The exceptionally warm summer to gaze at the often elusive northern will soon come to an end giving lights. The hotel’s immediate visitors the chance to experience surroundings are quite remarkable the “true” Iceland. There is really and it is well worth exploring the no feeling that beats staying historical background of the site, under a towering glacier with the which once housed a prominent northern lights dancing above trading centre. while enjoying some genuine Hotel Budir is renowned for its top Icelandic delicacies. quality restaurant. When possible, Hótel Búðir on the Snæfellsnes the restaurant uses only local peninsula gives guests the chance materials, be it fish from the local to do exactly that – it is positioned markets or salad dressings made from close to the majestic and inspiring local flowers. During the autumn 1896 Snæfellsjökull glacier and is known and winter months, be sure to try the to be one of the best sites in Iceland seasonal wild game dishes.

The hotel can accommodate both supplied on location. individuals and groups of all sizes and Whether on a business trip or is ideal for workshops or company relaxing holiday, the Snæfellsnes meetings. Hotel Budir is only a two peninsula itself offers abundant hour drive from Reykjavík, offering activities and attractions such as the peace and quiet of the country, hiking, glacier snowmobiling, fishing SJÁALDRIÐ 2010 while not too far away from main and many more. WARMTH FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY! transport hubs and cultural intrigue. The rooms are very comfortable For business travel, the hotel can and come in various sizes. Every accommodate up to workshops for room comes with a TV, DVD, 100 people and has a fully equipped telephone, clock wireless net and WOOL SWEATERS, ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23 40 person conference room. For a hairdryer. Breakfast is included. smaller meetings there are several BLANKETS & ACCESORIES, MOSFELLSBÆR smaller rooms around the hotel For more information and booking TRADITIONAL CRAFTS OPEN: MON -FRI 9:00 - 18:00 suited for that purpose (be sure go to www.hotelbudir.is to enquire about the cartography AND MODERN ART & SAT 9:00 - 16:00 room.) All technical equipment is

8 –Dill Restaurant Vibrant originality with Nordic ingredients

Not far south of the pond in new and exciting ways. It also in downtown Reykjavik, an displays the experimental side of Dill,” extraordinary building, the Nordic burning” the ingredients to create House, designed by the famous new flavours. Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, is now home to one of the premier Ólafur mentions that the winter Northern Lights restaurants in Iceland, Dill. For its season certainly challenges Dill as innovative creations that please the chefs concentrate on using only We are one of the leading tour operators the eye and tantalize the palette, Icelandic ingredients. But during award-winning Dill has been the short growing season, the staff in Iceland and offer professional services, highly praised as a world-class at Dill gather berries, herbs and flexibility and safety for travellers in Iceland. restaurant. seaweed, afterwards conserving them for the wintertime. “We also The owners of Dill, Gunnar Karl pick mushrooms that we dry and Allow us to introduce you to the variety and Ólafur are pioneers in the New then we use plenty of root vegetables that Iceland has to offer; from it’s richness Nordic Kitchen, a culinary movement during the winter,” says Ólafur. that puts emphasis on presenting in culture and history to its breathtaking classic Nordic ingredients in a new Lunch guests have a chance to the tables. For the evening, the staff Dining at Dill, guests fully experience beauty in nature and daily life. and exciting way. In 2008 the pair sample the Dill in a more rustic style; takes out the best silverware and puts local dishes in a new context. The fulfilled their dreams by opening traditional Icelandic dishes, such as on their best clothes to create a very experimental and original thinking the restaurant in the best possible “plokkfiskur”, are infused with a New Enjoy Iceland with location for a Nordic restaurant. Even special dining experience. Even so, Dill Restaurant has, without doubt, Nordic energy, served in clay pots at Westman Islands the most minute detail in the Nordic the atmosphere retains the intimate gained a unique position, garnering Iceland Excursions – Gray Line Iceland House was designed by Alvar Aalto yet informal vibe for which Dill is for itself a famed reputation, both at himself, right down to the tiles on the famous, as the restaurant is rather home and abroad. floor. Furthermore, the view from Dill small, seating only 30 guests. is breathtaking, extending over a quiet Dill restaurant | Norræna húsinu | bird sanctuary towards the old town The purpose of the New Nordic Sturlugötu 5 | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 552 and up to the hilltop Hallgrímskirkja. Kitchen is, among other things, to 1522 | [email protected] promote the understanding of the | www.dillrestaurant.is. The chefs at Dill have elevated simple many culinary possibilities of the local ingredients to a work of art and Nordic ingredients, as their quality is experience in itself. Guests should and variety are unknown to most. plan on an entire evening to sample Thus, the excellent service at Dill local dishes at their seasonal best. includes a thorough explanation Nearly all the ingredients come from about each dish, its origins and its Iceland, and if not, then from the preparation. Taste the Saga other . According to Ólafur, it is more or less only the oil which has to be imported from Þingvellir National Park outside of Scandinavia.

Limiting their ecological footprint as much as possible is important to Dill, as well as using mostly organic products. The menu is seasonal; each week the owners arrange a new Day Tours seven-course tasting menu complete Day ToursDay Tours2010 ActivitiesoursFREE COPY with a wine list to match each course. DayDay& T oursT Gullfoss In autumn, Icelandic game such as reindeer, geese and duck, feature prominently on the menu. Dill even has its own hunters to ensure absolute freshness and the highest possible quality. Other examples of tempting Contact us Tel.: +354 540 1313 .is ours Vestmannaeyjar Email: iceland@grayline Geysir Area ATV Day T treats include: salted salmon and ours capelin roe in mayonnaise, smoked Day T Jökulsárlón oursWhale Watching Skógafoss Blue Lagoon DayRiver Rafting oursT ww.grayline.is with hay, skyr and söl, or the lamb fillet Day T own at Lækjartorg or go to w Visit our sales office downt with onions, pickled onions, creamed kale and sorrel sauce. Even this brief, Visit our sales office at Lækjartorg square, mouth-watering list demonstrates call us at (+354) 540 1313 or go to www.grayline.is. the emphasis on traditional cooking methods, such as smoking, used 10 Fjorubordid in A Feast Fit for Kings

There are several „must-sees“ prominent visitors to take them on of lobster, lobster soup and some Centre, as well as a Wildlife Museum when it comes to tourist attractions a tour of Iceland‘s most interesting homemade pastries are sure to leave where you can see a large number in Iceland – The Blue Lagoon, locations and it is not uncommon you satisfied, just be sure to bring your of Icelandic mammals and birds as Gullfoss and Geysir, Þingvellir and that such tours end in Fjorubordid. appetite. well as mammals from Africa and a cosy seaside lobster restaurant Whether it be famous rock stars The town of Stokkseyri is definitely Greenland, including a shoulder in the quiet town of Stokkseyri. and actors, respected politicians and worth a visit in itself – a tranquil mount of musk ox, full mount polar For over 15 years Fjorubordid has world leaders or members of royalty former fishing and trading centre bear, giraffe as well as full mount lions, been satisfying customers from all Fjorubordid has served them all. where the people are friendly and male and a female. over the world to great acclaim. It is The restaurant is located on the the food is good. Stokkseyri now For more information visit www. customary when Iceland receives ocean shore (in fact the name roughly houses one of the scariest museums fjorubordid.is translates as the seaside) giving a you‘ll ever come across – The Ghost splendid view to set the mood. The restaurant‘s interiors and surroundings are quite humble and modest, but can accommodate groups of all sizes. The main attractions however are the lobster dishes, which Fjorubordid is famous for. The staple Village Lobster is a perennial favourite which is grilled in garlic butter, served with bread and various sauces. The lobster soup is to die for! – as Fjorubordid‘s proprietors claim that many Icelanders and visitors risk travelling from the capital during hail storms and risky weather just for a taste of the soup. The lobster feast is a dining experience you won‘t soon forget. With up to 400 grams 12 – Glymur Resort “The Perfect Balance of Luxury GLACIER and Comfort, a True Gem” These are the words from an ADVENTURES appreciative customer of Glymur Resort recommending the hotel to AND OTHER EXCITING DAY TOURS other tripadvisor.com users, where the resort scores top ratings. The FROM REYKJAVÍK resort is a comfortable 40-minute drive from the capital and open all year round.

The highest waterfall in Iceland, Glymur, is situated at the innermost point of Hvalfjörður – the Fjord of Whales. Glymur is a hidden treasure of sorts, as it is not accessible by car. SINCE The resort derives its name from the nearby waterfall. 1994 Spör ehf.

Great care has been taken in making EASY AND ACCESSIBLE FOR EVERYONE the Glymur’s interior both uniquely MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS - [email protected] - Tel: +354 587 9999 beautiful and refreshingly comfortable. As one of the customers on tripadvisor or visit the ITM INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER, Bankastræti 2 - Downtown, Reykjavík wrote: All too often on arrival Hotels fail to live up to their promotional photographs and literature, however Glymur was everything I had hoped and more. The views from the floor to ceiling windows are stunning and the furnishings and decor throughout theme and is designed accordingly. All even the most discerning of guests. The Glymur were of a high quality and very villas have a large indoor living space, This fabulous retreat pairs superior thoughtfully put together. private balcony, patio and hot tub. services with natural grandeur. The Resort will not staff at the Glymur Resort take pride Glymur resort consists of a boutique There is no disputing the popularity in providing guests with fine Icelandic disappoint hotel and 6 luxury villas. Set on of summer as Iceland’s tourism high hospitality. It is truly one of Iceland’s a mountainside overlooking the season. Nevertheless, the Glymur hidden gems and ought to be on every even the most beautiful Hvalfjordur, Glymur resort Resort offers guests spectacular visitor’s itinerary. discerning of offers a truly unique experience that hospitality year round. The autumn will impress even the most seasoned colors are spectacular in Hvalfjörður, For further information and booking guests. traveller. The hotel has 22 gallery suites the heath full of berries and the coast visit www.hotelglymur.is tel. full of mussels. It’s also the time to see 003544303100 STAY IN THE CENTER and 3 junior suites. Amenities include a gourmet restaurant, cafe, outdoor the Northern Lights as the days grow CenterHotels offer 413 first class hotel rooms in 5 city center hotels, ranging from good spa area, massage room and outdoor shorter and shorter. Glymur Resort quality tourist class hotels to a top class boutique hotel. hot tubs. The resort’s professional offers various packages to enjoy this season of fantastical autumn splendor. conference facilities cater to intimate All hotels are located in the much sought after 101 district right in the center of town. gatherings and large groups alike. Amazing location with shopping, galleries, theaters, restaurants and the Reykjavik business The resort also offers a variety of district, all on your doorstep. The Glymur resort pays attention to winter packages. Over Christmas, detail. The views over the tranquil Glymur Resort indulges guests with a lavish package full of holiday delights: All the hotel rooms are equipped with private bathrooms, flat-screen TV, mini-bar, coffee & fjord are breathtaking. Interior Tea making facilities and a FREE high-speed wired internet connection. spaces throughout the Gylmur resort decadent food, bubbly hot tubs, plush have been tastefully appointed and robes and slippers – everything you meticulously crafted to merge with need to unwind, relax and enjoy this beautiful scenery. Each of its 6 the holiday season. Throughout the www.centerhotels.com luxury villas are individually designed Christmas holiday season, the resort’s Tel.: 595 8500 - Fax: 595 8511 - Email: [email protected] and self-catering or full serviced can gourmet restaurant also prepares a be arranged to meet the needs of each special buffet that attracts Icelanders individual clients. There are both 1 and from all over the country. 2 bedroom villas, and each has its own The Glymur Resort will not disappoint 14 a devastating event for the locals of Vestmanneyjar as over 400 houses were covered by the eruption, forcing all of the island’s inhabitants to evacuate their homes and belongings. Much like in the famous ruins of Pompei a new excavation project gives visitors a chance to see how Experience the the homes of Vestmannaeyjar were covered in lava and ash over 40 years ago. By digging into the mounds of power of nature ash archaeologists have discovered that some of the homes were left in Hekla Volcanic Body Scrub is a powerful surprisingly good condition after energizing exfoliant that will clear away dead skin being covered in ash all this time. The houses have been marked with cells and impurities to let fresh, invigorated and silky informative signposts where you can smooth skin emerge to the surface. learn how the awesome power of mother nature affected the lives of Hekla contains uplifting aromatic essential oils that the hardworking people of Vestmen Islands. push away stress and anxiety, filling you with volcanic energy! Wide Variety of Day Tours Iceland Excursions Iceland Excursions offers a wide variety of day tours all year long covering all of Iceland’s most exciting locations and activities. Whether you want to relax in the Blue Lagoon, The perfect anti-aging duo Taste the Saga and Visit snowmobile across glaciers, chase the northern lights or combine staple The Rose Wonder is a rich and luxurious facial attractions with exciting activities Iceland Excursions is guaranteed to moisturizer containing only the very best ingredients that satisfy. work to diminish the signs of aging, while providing the the Pompei of the North Iceland Excursions place great perfect nutrition for your skin. One of the most experienced today. You’ll have a chance to drink and the youngest celebrated its 40th emphasis on providing its customers tour companies in the country – modern day favourite beer brands, anniversary in 2003. with optimal safety and comfort Purity Herbs Facial Serum is densly packed with Iceland Excursions – is always on the famous Malt and Appelsín mix The Pompei of the North tour by providing up to date vehicles goodness, containing herbs and oils that repair, regenerate the lookout for new and exciting and a shot of the infamous Brennivín includes a bus ride to the Bakkafjara and technology. In 2004 Iceland adventures to make your stay in liquoir, which is produced in Ölgerðin’s pier and a ferry across to the islands. Excursions was given the formal and revitalize the skin – giving tired skin an extra boost. Iceland more memorable. The distillery. There you will take a bus tour around Grayline Worldwide Franchise in latest additions to the company’s the largest island of , where Iceland. Grayline is the world leader Treat yourself a healthy, youthful glow already extensive array of exciting Pompei of the North amongst other things you will meet in sightseeing, ground transportation tours are a visit to the Pompei of One doesn’t often get a chance the colourful puffins at Cape Storhofdi services and unique tours at over 150 the North in the Vestmen Islands to explore the awesome power of and take a walk up to a volcanic crater destinations around the world. and a tour through Iceland‘s oldest mother nature first hand, but you which erupted only a few years ago,. For more information and booking brewery in Taste the Saga tour. 100% nature from Iceland really can’t get much closer to it than The volcanic eruption of 1963 was visit www.greyline.is in the Westmen Islands As a result for those who (skin) care Taste the Saga of volcanic eruptions from below the Icelandic drinking habits have ocean surface the islands were formed At Purity Herbs, we create 100% natural, high quality skin care products using synergistic blends of Icelandic herbs, natural become quite famous in recent at various points in time – the oldest spring water and genuine essential oils. Each handcrafted product is a unique formulation working to deliver visible results. times and more and more people island over 40 thousand years ago Purity Herbs uses only Earth friendly ingredients that provide maximum effectiveness. We do not test on animals. visit Iceland just to explore the wild nightlife in downtown Reykjavik. To see our complete range of skincare products, suited for all skin types, visit www.purityherbs.is Iceland Excursions now offers you a chance to explore Iceland‘s heritage Available at: Duty Free Keflavik airport, Nature Baths Myvatn, Islandia Kringlan, Isbjörninn Laugarvegi, Gullfoss Café, of drinking in a tour through Iceland‘s Hof Akureyri and Pharmacy and health stores all over Iceland oldest brewery – Ölgerðin. While exploring the brewery you will be entertained by stories about Iceland‘s quirky drinking culture – both as it was in the past and as it is Purity Herbs · Akureyri · Iceland www.purityherbs.is [email protected] 16 The Lobster House Made From the Finest Materials Available in the The “Icelandic Lobster” is a Right delicacy you simply must try during your stay in Iceland and few are more experienced in preparing delicious lobster dishes than The Lobster House, situated in the heart of Reykjavík. of However, what most Icelanders call Heart Reykjavik lobster is probably not what you think it is. The crustacean on offer in The Lobster House is actually a much Radisson BLU 1919 Hotel is a superbly designed four star hotel located smaller species called langoustine right in the heart of the city. Housed in one of the city’s historical which is commonly found in the buildings, the 1919 Hotel offers an interesting balance of classic north-eastern and . The langoustine is usually elements with contemporary design and furnishings. around 17 cm (6.7 inches) in length and weighs up to 400g, whereas the The 1919 Hotel focuses on offering guests a high standard of service, common lobster usually ranges from 8-16 inches. The history of commercial quality and comfort to enjoy while in Reykjavik. Since opening, the langoustine fishing in Iceland only hotel has been awarded such prestigious honors as Iceland’s Leading dates back around fifty years, but Hotel 4 years consecutively by the World Travel Awards as well as one since its introduction to the it has been considered one of of the Top 25 Business Hotels in Europe voted by CNBC Europe. the top gourmet materials available. The langoustine‘s smaller size Whether in the city for business or pleasure, the hotel strives to make however does not mean less taste your stay comfortable. Our staff will be happy to assist you with – on the contrary the chefs at The Lobster House claim that it outshines arrangements for transportation, excursions or reservations. the common lobster in most aspects. It is one of the bests possible materials customers when they receive a plate a dish most Icelanders savour on “Even though it is smaller than the a chef can work with, making my of these relatively small crustaceans, sunny summer evenings. But as the As a guest you will have complimentary access to the on site Fitness lobster most people are used to, I have job that much easier,” says one of the thinking a mistake has been made. name implies the chefs at The Lobster centre and Business centre. During your stay we invite you to use the found that the giant lobster doesn’t Lobster House’s expert chefs, Ottó „They are often sceptical at first, but House are experts in coming up with come anywhere near the langoustine Magnússon. after the first bite their doubts are innovative ideas on preparing this Concierge Service of our Front Office when it comes to taste and texture. The But appearances can be deceiving and removed instantly,“ says Ottó. delicacy. langoustine is considerably softer and Ottó says that it is not uncommon to The most popular dish in The Lobster The Lobster House is located in Within walking distance from the hotel you will find yourself pretty the taste is much more concentrated. see a look of surprise on the faces of House is the grilled lobster with garlic, one of Reykjavík´s oldest houses much wherever you need to go in the downtown area. Whether you are on Amtmansstígur 1, which was originally built in 1838. If you are headed to a meeting or just looking to do some exploring or shopping, walking north, away from the pond it can all be found right in the city centre. Transportation can be towards the sea on the right side of Lækjargata you should notice a cluster arranged for you at the hotel. of old houses behind a small peculiar garden with an oversized chess board. On the most prominent building you´ll see a sign with the langoustine The Restaurant and Lounge; famous for it‘s prime „people watching“ location, on it and inside the feast awaits. classic cocktail lounge and now with a new menu intertwining tastes from Further information is available on around the world with the finest ingredients from Iceland www.humarhusid.is

The most popular dish in The Lobster House is the grilled lobster with garlic, a For more information: dish most Icelanders www.radissonblu.com/1919hotel-reykjavik savour on sunny [email protected] summer evenings. Tel. +354 599 1000

18 Blowing hot steam in Hveravellir

Marketa & Tim whose aim was to teach chess to “There is so much potential in native Inuit children. “I loved the Iceland and it is our hope to be idea that the chess club wanted to able to use our talents to help local help the children learn to play chess. business and social projects move The kids learned quickly and had so forward” says Markéta. much fun. They even organised a tournament with the winners getting See more of Tim and Markéta’s a chance to come to Iceland to learn photography at the following how to swim. It was especially Websites: memorable for me to capture the joy Flickr.com in the faces of these Inuit children as fineartamerica.com they learned a new skill. One of my timvollmer.de dreams is to be able to do more of this marketakalvachova.com Þingvallakirkja kind of work, because sponsors need to be able to see just how thankful in Facebook: Puffin with nest materials in beak and appreciative needy children are Tim-Vollmer-Photography when they receive charity of any Marketa-Kalvachova-Photography Capturing Iceland kind....it’s priceless” -the fine-art nature photography of Tim Vollmer and Markéta Kalvachová

Iceland, being the photographer’s Jðkulsarlón, with stops at all the also being planned. throughout Iceland. For her part, paradise that it is, does not lack most photogenic locations along the Markéta specialises in panoramic for camera toting enthusiasts of way including the thermal area of Tim is a man with an eye for views with her favorite area to every hue and genre, but the Hveragerði, the 19th century houses details. “My mother was always photograph being the Hengill works of photographers Tim of Eyrarbakki, working with textures in her various Volcanic System with its eerie yet Vollmer and Markéta Kalvachová Skogarfoss, Dyrholaey, Vík and collages,and I love to capture texture enchanting stillness. are nothing short of awe- the Jökulsarlón glacial lagoon in my photography,” he says. He inspiring. amongst others. Summer tours of especially loves the challenge of In 2006, Tim travelled to East the south coast which will include capturing the textures of the lava Greenland to document a joint Geysir “Strokkur” Tim arrived from Germany in Thingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir, the fields...the lichen, the moss and project by the Chess Club of Iceland 2005 and Markéta from the Czech famed “Golden Circle” of Iceland are the curious lava formations found and the University of Iceland and Happy icelandic foal Republic in 2006. They met in the summer of 2006 and soon established a common bond, sharing the same love for Iceland, which is clearly portayed in their photography. “Trying to capture the stillness of the mountains, the purity and crispness of the air, or the haunting isolation of a remote fjord is not easy”, Tim explains.

At the moment they are in the process of preparing to launch a 5 day winter photography workshop which will span the south coast of the country from Reykjavik to Panorama from Morsárdalur Detail of Lava Floating icebergs in Jökulsárlón 20 21 story, and often their own curious for a lively music scene, including nights and short days. The people topographical names. Fishing and Iceland’s only pure rock festival. of the East are well aware of this trading have been important for French influence is strong in fact and therefore celebrate The the region up until this day, which Fáskrúðsfjörður, which used to Days of Darkness for two weeks in is apparent if one visits the fishing be a service centre for French November. This festival takes place villages. If you want to visit an fishermen in the late 19th and early anywhere and everywhere in East authentic fisherman’s hut, where 20th century. Thus, the village had Iceland, in every town and village, the fishermen and workers stayed a French hospital for the benefit whether it be at the kindergarten, when ashore in the late 1800’s go of incoming French fishermen. the bakery, the swimming pool or in to Randulf´s Sea House in the Fáskrúðsfjörður still enjoys close the community centre. lovely town of Eskifjörður. This connections with France through The events are connected to the Mjoeyri, Eskifjordur background is further emphasized cultural cooperation. darkness in one way or another. The by a highly interesting Maritime If you are coming to Iceland out of children exploring shadow and light Museum located there. geological interest, Stöðvarfjörður in the kindergarten; dimmed lights Norwegian influence can be has a well-known collection of at the library or the heritage centre seen in the picturesque town of rocks and minerals at Petra’s. Or while listening to dark criminal Seyðisfjörður, which is widely visit the galleries of the many artists and ghost stories; a special concert respected for its cultural life and in the village. In the nearby village at the swimming pool for those in renovated old centre. Norwegians of Breiðdalsvík in a renovated house the hut tub, a medieval banquet Mjoifjordur came there for the herring off the is the Breiðdalssetur, explaining east of sheep heads and legs in a Turf shores of Iceland and their heritage iceland’s interesting geology and farm – everything you can connect – The East is salient in the local architecture. beautiful semi-precious stones. with this theme of darkness. The Another town of architectural There you will also find an excellent days of darkness can also be cozy interest is Djúpivogur, an old trading mineral museum, the Steinasafn. and romantic, even slightly erotic. centre where you have a rare chance In Iceland’s largest forest is the Many restaurants and hotels offer The Land of Reindeer, to visit wooden buildings from world’s northernmost Arboretum romantic evenings of candlelight, the latter part of the 18th century, ( tree collection) and hidden in the special menus and discounted including Langabúð, a museum and trees is Hallormsstaður, the only prices during those darkest of days. cultural centre with art exhibitions, village in a woodland, with good The days of darkness can also be Deep Fjords and Rich Culture not to forget the wonderful tourist services. quite cozy and romantic. Many birdwatching at this arrival point of In the land of the hidden people is restaurants and hotels offer The East of Iceland is a region of Lagarfljót runs. This vast area is the majority of passing foreign ships both early settlers and migrant birds the sustainable village of Bakkagerði romantic evenings of candlelight Seyðisfjörður many wonders; spanning from called Fljótsdalshérað and is home visiting this part of the country, (www.birds.is). in Borgarfjörður, the true capital of and discounted prices on dark Europe’s largest national park, to the region’s capital, Egilsstaðir even during the years of the Danish If you are more of an anglophile, a to hiking in Iceland. The area offers drinks. Sometimes there are even experience of northern lights while Fjords reveal a magnificent landscape Vatnajökull National Park; to the with its international airport, as monopoly. French, Norwegian and Reyðarfjörður is a must. The British over 160 km of marked paths and special offers for those who wear a soaking in a warm natural bath of long, narrow fjords, steep mountains easternmost point of Iceland, well as Iceland’s biggest forest, Dutch influences were particularly occupied Reyðarfjörður during some of the most impressive day black tie or dark sunglasses. at the edge of Europe´s largest and jagged peaks. The area is brillint Gerpir, only reachable on foot. Hallormsstaður forest. felt and have made a strong World II and their presence left hikes such as Dyrfjöll –Stórurð. Last glacier or Europe’s most remote for wintersports, snowmobile riders In between you’ll find wonderful It can be undeniably said that one impression on the villages. its mark on the village scenery, well but not least is remote Vopnafjörður, The street lights miht be turned off swimmingpool the Selárdalslaug. favour the highlands and skiers fishing villages and one inland gets a little bit of both in the East, the The history alone makes the East visible in the local WWII museum. the birth place of one of Iceland’s in some towns for a special ghost Tours are available from that make gather from around Iceland to enjoy town that boasts of a vibrant sight of the deep fjords surrounded worth visiting. Every little village, The isolated Neskaupsstaður is a best jazz composers Jón Múli, the parade. If you are not lucky enough this a breathtaking experience. the slopes at Oddskard in the Fjords. scene of art and culture. Every by magnificent mountains as well in fact every little bay has its own thriving , also known music museum Mulastofa and the to run into a ghost, you can probably More information is available on season has its charm, but the as the more fertile inland area. In East Iceland emigration centre. find a place or two where ghost Travelling towards the coast, the East east.is autumn brings about beautiful addition to that, you’ll find some of Nearby is possibly the country’s best tales from the East are narrated. If colours and plenty of freshly the most striking areas of Iceland’s preserved turf farm, the Bustarfell you seek a faint gleam of light to caught game as the locals highlands in the East: the ice-covered Heritage Museum. have at your home, an introduction prepare for the coming winter. volcanic mountain range Kverkfjöll to homemade candle-making with its steaming hotsprings and The Days of Darkness might be the ideal thing for you. The Fjords, the Inland, the icecaves; Snæfellsöræfi, the home The time of the year when the days Cultural events, like concerts and Highlands and the trails of great wild Reindeer herds, where get shorter and shorter is most art exhibitions are also prominent The East differs in many ways Iceland’s second highest mountain, often considered negative. Surely all around the region. from other parts of Iceland, both Snæfell reigns and the beginning of these can be hard times, when culturally and in terms of nature. one of the best trek routes in Iceland, daylight is limited to a gray four or Extreme winter Firstly the inhabited area can roughly untouched by mass-tourism, along five hours. But it also has a positive adventures be divided in two; the colourful the edge of Vatnajökul to the south. side, it’s the season when people Winter and early spring is a coast, with many traditional fishing rest, share memories, tell stories wonderful time, when you can villages; and the fertile agricultural Fish and Foreign Influence and create handicraft. The dark visit the magnificient Icecaves of inland. While the coastline contains Another distinctive feature of the days only preceed the re-occurance Eyjabakkajökull or enjoy the once- beautiful, deep fjords with high East, is the foreign influence found of the sun, when days can only get in-a-lifetime extreme adventure and incredibly sheer mountains, in many of the fishing villages. brighter. of bathing in the warm waters the inland consists of long green The East is, of course, that part of There is probably never a more of the Kverkfjöll Ice-caves in the valleys, the longest one being Iceland that is the nearest to the rest appropriate time to have a good Vatnajökull National Park. In the Fljótsdalsherað-Vopnafjörður Fljótsdalur through which the lake of Europe, which has resulted in Eyjabakkajökull festival than during these long east you can enjoy the lifetime 22 23 of trails with countless possibilities, –Borgarfjörður Eystri and the Deserted Inlets whether they be long or short, through unearthly landscapes. Dyrfjöll, Breiðavík, Brúnavík, Hvítserkur, Urðarhólar, and Loðmundarfjörður Legendary Untouched Natural Splendor are just a few of the places not to be missed. This is the land of legends. Among Icelanders, the vicinity still maintains its seaside lifestyle of the The local folklore is fascinating and of Borgarfjörður is known for its small family fisheries. This closeknit at last count 172 folk stories dealing spectacular natural beauty. This is community of people is renowned for with elves take place in the region. a hidden gem of a place that has warm, friendly hospitality. The local Even a short jaunt along one of the been left undisturbed by mass- cuisine consists of the high quality spellbindingly beautiful paths will tourism. In Bakkagerði, a village in ingredients of the region, like the fresh captivate the imagination. Borgarfjörður, the locals, who total fish brought in every day. around 130, live in close proximity The most dramatic mountains of with nature. In the idyllic country There is no lack of hiking options east Iceland are Dyrfjöll (1136m) setting, life continues calm and around Borgarfjörður, with about at the entrance to the wonderful sustainable, free from the hustle 27 day-routes nearby. A multitude Borgarfjörður region. This gigantic and bustle of hectic urban life. It of these hiking routes lie in an area breach, hundreds of feet across, splits is the perfect place to relax and commonly called Víknaslóðir, or its main ridge and dominates the get in touch with nature. The area the Trail of the Deserted Inlets, that skyline with vertical black walls. has plenty to offer - in particular, encompasses the various inlets that a tremendous variety of hiking lie between Loðmundarfjörður and One of Iceland’s best-kept secrets, routes through the lands of elfin around Borgarfjörður. The area has Stórurð (Boulder Hollow), lies at the heart of Dyrfjöll. It is a mysterious legends. a dense net of well marked hiking Bakkagerði in Borgarfjörður. Svartfell in the back. routes as well as some exemplary and unearthly place, a labyrinth of enormous rocks through which a little Borgarfjörður Eystri, the northernmost facilities for hikers. A puffin couple in love in Hafnarhólma from the residency of the Icelandic often described as similar to humans, In Bakkagerði, there is a blue flag river winds its way and calm turquoise of Iceland’s eastern fjords, lies at the mountain ridges. The trails wind With a little luck, reindeer herds can elf-queen. Álfaborg (Elf Rock, Elf but taller, fairer and more beautiful. harbour, which is only used for small ponds of icy water lie hidden among end of a lovely road – the perfect Hiking in Víknaslóðir is a unique themselves between isolated coves be seen, not to mention the local birds Hill) is a rocky outcropping right next Their residency (inside the rocks) is boats as the local fishermen only sail the huge boulders, lined by flat banks place to stopover. Only an hour’s experience. The mountains come in and fjords over colourful hills and that are abundant and the arctic flora to Bakkagerði. An easy path leads similar to that of 19th century Iceland, out for day fishing and return to the of short green grass. An expanse of drive off Highway 1, travelling to all shapes and sizes and the variety through green valleys all the way characterized by its large flowers and to the top, which has a panoramic although a bit more refined. Elves village each night. enormous rocks intersected by a Borgarfjörður eystri will offer visitors of colours is stunning; everything down to the coast. Abandoned vivacious colours. viewpoint. Álfaborg is a reserved area are often said to help humans out, small river. It is certainly a mysterious the rare opportunity to experience a from the black sands of the beaches houses and ruins of ancient farms and an interesting place to visit. especially those bullied by their fellow The harbour is located near to and enchanting place, and you will be genuine Icelandic fishing village that to the pinkish orange hues of the put their mark on the surroundings. In total, there are around 150 km humans. Hafnarhólmi, which is connected to hard-pressed to leave. In Icelandic folklore, the elves are a small islet, with bustling birdlife,

especially puffins. The Puffin is a small While hiking towards Stórurð, you’ll bird that commonly makes holes in be able to enjoy an amazing view the turf, in and above cliffs. Therefore, south towards Fljótsdalur. On a clear it can generally be hard to catch a good day, one can see all the way to the sight of the bird. But not here in the highest mountain of the East, Snæfell. harbour, a nice observation platform Meanwhile, Breiðavík and Brúnavík, is just beside the islet, allowing people two inlets south of Borgafjörður, to view the birds within a range of two contain vast, black beaches with meters. About 10.000 pairs of puffins Siberian driftwood. The way to nest every summer in Borgarfjörður, Breiðavík from Borgarfjörður is a from the latter part of April until mid- tapestry of pastel coloured hillsides. August. Among other common bird The incredible colour comes from the species nesting there are the Fulmar, presence of rhyolite in the mountains. Kittiwake and the Eider duck. The valley of Borgarfjörður has also Iceland has a largely unspoiled plenty to offer. The sheep trails winding In Víknaslóðum. Dyrfjöll in the background. nature and vast areas where there is their way up to Dimmidalur (the not a soul in sight. Trekking around Dark Valley) and Jökuldalur (Glacier Borgarfjörður Eystri is one way to Valley) offer a rugged but beautiful experience this unspoiled nature to landscape, right under Dyrfjöll. This the fullest. The “Trail of the Deserted route goes through the elf community Inlets” takes visitors from one of this of Lobbuhraun. According to local country’s great natural monuments, folklore, the elves make their home in Stórurð, through mountains ablaze in Dimmidalur valley, but Borgarfjörður resplendent colours, along one of the is considered to be a central province country’s most magnificent coastlines. of the elves in Iceland. Elves are often For an experience of untouched called the “hidden people” because wilderness and pristine landscape in of how difficult it is to see them. the peace of the deserted fjords and Nowadays there are Icelanders who inlets, Borgarfjörður eystri is the place distinguish between hidden people to visit. and elves, but in 19th century folklore these two terms are synonymous. More information is available on

An elveswoman strolling. puffins.is and borgarfjordureystri.is The natureparadise Stórurð. The fjord actually derives its name 24 25 running through the center of the main Vopnafjörður valley, and various other recreational possibilities in the Vopnafjörður area. The surrounding area boasts of several excellent hiking trails, and there is also a museum and a coffee house. On the farm, our guests will have „front row seats“ during haymaking and other seasonal farm activities. In the Kaupvangur wintertime it is possible to watch the Among the things worth seeing in magnificent northern lights glittering Vopnafjörður is the cultural center across the sky and also observe the of Kaupvangur which is located in a wild reindeer when they approach large, old wooden house down by the the farm in the December through harbour. A museum commemorating April period. the brothers Jón Múli Árnason and Síreksstaðir: Jónas Árnason is also to be found. They Hof and a bit of history were born here, but then moved to Síreksstaðir was the home of a famous Reykjavík and in the fifties and sixties A Modern Farm with a Long History doctor in the saga period (930-1030), they wrote several musicals which according to Vopnfirðinga saga. There Like most other farms in have become classics of Icelandic playground) as it is called in children´s is also a connection with the old the country, Síreksstaðir in popular culture. They were also very Icelandic. By the way, those who want manor house of Hof. In the charter of Vopnafjörður can trace its active in politics, being opposed to the to try local delicacies should try the this church from 1397 Síreksstaðir is history back to ancient times. US bases then positioned in Iceland cabin smoked beef tongue and duck mentioned along with several other It is mentioned in one saga, and fighting against them at every eggs for sale at Síreksstaðir. This can farms as belonging to the manor of opportunity. In this house there is also Vopnfirðinga saga, written in be tasted with some wine in the hot the middle ages, and there are Hof. In the 13th century Hof was the a museum commemorating the great tub! seat of one of the great chieftains of the emigration from the East of Iceland documents from the 14th century that mention its name. Sturlungar era, Þorvarður Þórarinsson. to America in the late 19th and early The Hvammur Guesthouse There is a pretty church at Hof today Now it is a modern farm, with Vopnafjörður: 20th centuries. The guesthouse has wash basins in which is well worth visiting. To find modern farming and modern every room and shared bathrooms out more about Síreksstaðir, see www. facilities for accommodating tourists Burstafell Turf Farm and cooking facilities in the middle of sireksstadir.is Another sight of interest is the farm who want to visit Vopnafjörður. The the house. There is also a living room of Burstafell which is now a museum. proprietors and owners are Halldór with television. Those who wish for a A Microcosmos at the Edge of the Arctic Georgsson and Sigríður Bragadóttir. The large turf farmhouse was built in made up bed can have such service Halldór´s family has lived here since There is talk of an oil venture, winds, producing some of the best welfare society, run by the state and the style of Icelandic farms that were but sleeping bag accommodation the beginning of the 20th century. whispers of great wealth hidden weather in the country in the summer community. This includes the school typical until the late 19th century. is also available at a considerably at the bottom of the sea, in the months. and kindergarten, social services, Few farmhouses of this kind are cheaper price. The cottages north of Iceland in the so-called services to the elderly, the fire brigade, preserved today but the Burstafell Dragon area, and Vopnafjörður The Valleys of Vopnafjörður community center, sports facilities, farms is a prime example and a must Síreksstaðir lies in a valley on the east Recreation side of Vopnafjörður, 20 km. from the is ideally located to service this No one knows when the settlement water and sewage, keeping the roads see in Vopnafjörður. A new tourist Having slept the night through in the village. At the farm there are two very possible upcoming venture. period came to an end, but certainly open during winter and so on. These attraction is in the works as well: the comfortable beds at Síreksstaðir, it is comfortable cottages for hire and then Maybe we will see great oil rigs the area has been the scene of a great community social services employ community is developing a program time to get up and plan the activities in the Vopnafjörður fjord in the based on the Vopnfirðinga saga, the there is the Hvammur Guesthouse, for the day. The valley of Sunnudalur, Austfjarðaleið fluctuation in population over the about as many people as those who with seven rooms with double beds. future, preparing to drill for oil in ages to an unusual degree. In the 19th work for the largest firm, the fishing great saga about the area. where Síreksstaðir lies, offers a variety The cottages can accommodate six the cold Arctic Ocean, but nothing century the number of the farms in the and fish processing firm HB Grandi, of interesting sights, like the farm persons each, with all mod cons like Euro-4 umhverfisvottun has been decided as of yet. valleys grew from 47 in 1801 to 137 in each employing about a hundred To find out more about Vopnafjörður, of Hraunfell, an abandoned farm refrigerator, microwave, cooker, TV, Umhverfisvæna fólksflutningafyrirtækið Meanwhile the village and valleys of 1860 with a great rise in population. people. see www.vopnafjardarhreppur.is. an hour´s walk from Síreksstaðir. DVD player etc. Each cottage has a Vopnafjörður lie as they have done for Before that, in the 17th century, There are several other abandoned Við erum til fyrirmyndar! hot tub to melt into and a gas barbecue hundreds of years, open to the polar similar growth in the population farms in the valley, and a hike to the to produce the appropriate barbecue winds from the north – but also not occurred, so in a sense there have mountaintop is always refreshing and steaks. There is also accommodation infrequently warmed by southerly been several periods of re-settlement rewarded with a great view at the Euro-4 no pollution certified for the young- swings, a slide and in Vopnafjörður. Now there are only a top. There is the possibility of trout The environmentally friendly bus company a sandbox, or „róló“ (meaning few dozen farms left in the valleys, run fishing in the Hofsá river, the river We lead by example! by determined farmers who refuse to leave. An example of the tenacity of the farmers here is the development Euro-4 Abgasnorm zertifiziert of tourism at Síreksstaðir, described Das umweltfreundliche Busunternehmen elsewhere on this page. Wir gehen mit Beispiel voran!

The Village The settlement of the village began in the late 19th century and soon there were several hundred people living in Austfjarðaleið the village. The main occupation was BUSÓseyri 1, 730 Reyðarfjörður fishing and fish processing, as it still is. Nowadays there is every kind of Sími/Tel. +354 477 1713 modern ammenity-, the great nordic Email: [email protected]

26 27 Seyðisfjörður The Charming Natural Pearl of East Iceland

The road to Seydisfjördur crosses Fjarðarheiði, a mountain range which has over the centuries presented a huge obstacle to travel, but is now reduced to a mere 30 minutes. Commanding views from Fjarðarheiði and the road leading down to the fjord is one of Iceland’s most spectacular.

The small but charming village of around 700 inhabitants, is distinguished by its collection of well preserved and colourful timber houses from the early 20th century. Seyðisfjörður is considered by many to be one of the most picturesque towns in Iceland, also known for its thriving art scene. In the center of town rises the pretty “Blue Church”, which serves as the local centre for music, while the Skaftfell Art Center is dedicated to the visual arts, with its focus on contemporary arts. Artists, art lovers and visitors from all over Iceland and abroad convene at the annual LungA art festival in July. Mostly aimed at the Sea fishing in beautiful Seydisfjordur fjord, in the safe hands of a local upcoming generation of young artists, Seyðisfjörður also has its own historical to 1950 technical innovations in mountain biking, sea angling and bird fisherman Tour for up to 7 people, rods for 4 people at a time. the festival has become one of the museum with lively exhibitions that areas such as mechanics, electricity, watching at Skalnes. Guided tours main art events of the year in Iceland. seek to recreate the atmosphere of communications, telephony, commerce of historic Seyðisfjörður can also be For more information please contact the times they portray; from 1880 and architecture changed forever the arranged. dynamics of the Icelandic way of life, A fun fact +354 861 7789 / [email protected] bringing it swiftly into the modern era. In the latter part of the 19th century, It was here that the first telephone line Iceland still didn´t have a proper capitol. linking Iceland to the outside world The intellectual elite were aware of the was built. Other historical links include problem and much back and forth the Norræna ferry, a north Atlantic discussion took place before it was ferry that connects Iceland to the Faroe decided that Reykjavík would be the Island and , which docks at best spot for the capitol of the future. Seyðisfjörður, making it the only place Along with Akureyri, Seyðisfjörður in Iceland where you can travel abroad was one of the candidates, since it with a car. was easier to sail to Europe from Recreational highlights include Seyðisfjörður than from any other of midnight kayaking on the fjord ( the towns in question. in summer only), attempting the www.visitseydisfjordur.com challenging “Seven Peaks Hike”,

28 walk makes up a part of many hiking Visiting these deep – Fjarðabyggð trails in the area and is easy to include in walks around the nearby area. fjords is worth the On the other side of Eskifjörður, is the nature reserve, Hólmanes. This while in any season. Deep in the Eastern Fjords is another ideal place to enjoy a good walk either down to the sea or up to the Summer is certainly The east coast of Iceland is hills. Views of birdlife and remarkable more popular and particularly long,twisting in an rock formations make Hólmanes a endless number of fjords, bays very pleasant stop along the eastern guests will find the and inlets. Above the coastline, coastline. sheer blue mountains reign, One of the world’s best-known hillsides dotted with sending down beautiful waterfalls, Icelandic spar mines is at Helgustaðir often through high and striking in Reyðarfjörður. The mine was glowing campfires canyons. operated from the 17th century until and those cozy One region, which covers a large part the early 20th century. Most of the of these deep picturesque fjords, with Icelandic spar in museums around the Icelandic sing- no less than six beautiful towns, is world was mined in Silfurbergsnáman. Family sailin in boat from Mjoeyri boat rental in Eskifjörður. called Fjarðabyggð. There is a good walking path to this alongs. Nevertheless, interesting place, now declared a it is during the The Towns in the Fjords nature reserve. summer, flowers are everywhere! the winter that the landscape gets really Each of Fjarðabyggð’s six towns is Legendary Skrúður is a wonderful winter that the Even the toilet facilities are painted majestic. Stopping for coffee inside located in a different fjord: Norðfjörður, island in Fáskrúðsfjörður. It is a vibrant pink colours and adorned with a warm café after a refreshing walk Mjóifjörður, Eskifjörður, Reyðarfjörður, high, grassy island with cliffs rising landscape gets really colourful blooms. to any of the sites mentioned above, Fáskrúðsfjörður and Stöðvarfjörður. from the sea. In Skrúður there is a majestic. pondering that these fjords have been Although it may be off the beaten large cave that was once a regular Visiting these deep fjords is worth inhabited for centuries – and long path for many visitors to Iceland, stopping point for sailors journeying the while in any season. Summer is before the advent of central heating - is these towns of Fjarðabyggð will not southward. According to Icelandic certainly more popular and guests will a special experience indeed! disappoint, there is indeed, something folklore, three famous brothers, giants, find the hillsides dotted with glowing for every one. lived in eastern Iceland, one of them campfires and those cozy Icelandic Further information is available at: If you have come to Iceland seeking in Skrúður, another in Streitishvarf sing-alongs. Nevertheless, it is during fjardabyggd.is isolation, Mjóifjörður might be the and the last one in Papey. The brother arch. Hikers will enjoy the trail from place for you. Tucked in this narrow The popular historic sea-house Randulf´s Sjóhús. in Skrúður went to Kolfreyjustaður, a Jafnadalur to Fáskrúðsfjörður. priest’s farm. He captured the young fjord is a small, cozy village of just breathtaking waterfalls and canyons town’s main industry. A visit to the At the base of Nýpan, the outermost priest’s daughter and took her for his A very cheap vacation! 33 permanent residents and a lot of make the journey worth the effort. museums and galleries of these towns mountain in the range separating wife. The stories of these giants spread If you are already planning your trip interesting places to see. During the Norðfjörður is the largest town in provides visitors with an appreciation Mjóifjörður and Norðfjörður, lies by the sailors who claimed to have to Iceland and these deep fjords in the winter months driving to Mjóifjörður the region, with a population of for this centuries old way of life. the first official national park in known them. East have captivated your imagination, can be an arduous endeavor, leaving about 1400. As in most of the other Natural splendor and history is also Iceland, Fólksvangur. Fólksvangur Sandfell is a distinctive 743 meter you’ll be glad to discover that each of sailing as the only practical means of towns of Fjarðabyggð, fishing and prominently featured, and the Petra’s offers marvelous outdoor recreation. rhyolite mountain between these fjords have very nice camping transport. Nevertheless, Mjóifjörður’s work related to fishing makes up the Mineral Collection in Stöðvarfjörður There are, of course, various walking Stöðvarfjörður and Fáskrúðsfjörður. grounds, free of charge! So even on is not to be missed. paths, but the most famous is a cave The best way to approach it is from the most modest budget, travellers The fjords, the mountains, all the known as the Páskahellir, a vault just the south side of Fáskrúðsfjörður. The will find the region of Fjarðabyggð stunning landscapes of this area above sea level. The Icelandic name scenery is excellent en route, with attractive! provide an awe-inspiring backdrop Páskahellir translates to ‘Easter Cave’ views of Fáskrúðsfjörður and Andey One particuar camping site has received to the vibrant life of the communities and it is said that on Easter morning and Skrúður islands, composing a quite some attention. The small, cozy dotting the coastline. It is only when the sun dances around the cave. A tour round-trip of about 5 hours. camping area in Stöðvarfjörður has nature dons the white cloak of winter inside Páskahellir is exciting; a marked French influence is strong in been called the cutest in Iceland. The that the majestic landscape of Iceland trail allows visitors to experience this Fáskrúðsfjörður, so strong that even the caretakers do their utmost to make becomes truly imposing. It is only cave, which was carved out by waves. street signs are both in Icelandic and it especially homey and quaint. In The famous Petra´s stone collection in Stöðvarfjörður during the winter that you first get the Along the walls, small holes left by French. There is a French graveyard feeling that you have suddenly found trees that were covered by lava about and a French hospital. The graveyard yourself in the middle of the famous 12 million years ago are a fascinating is a remnant from the times when tale of the Lord of the Rings. These glimpse of Iceland’s volcanic history. French sailors were frequent visitors to are the effects that the intrique of the Looking eastward out of the cave, Fáskrúðsfjörður. There are 49 known Eastern fjords can have on you you, toward the peninsula Barðsneshorn is graves in the graveyard. The French but let’s take a better look at some of a magnificent vista dominated by the Hospital is located in the former village the most interesting sites. red rhyolite glow of Rauðubjörg. of Hafnarnes. Originally built in 1903 Norðfjörður also boasts of a great as a hospital for the French sailors, the An Outdoor Paradise skiing area in Oddskarð. The area is house was moved to Hafnarnes by nicknamed “The Alps of the East” as Fjarðabyggð offers plenty of attractions boat in 1939. peaks rise 800 meters above sea level which are ideal for outdoor enthusiasts. Along the northern edge of this and provide skiers with an amazing From mysterious caves, amazing region lies Jafnadalur, a valley in view along their descent. mountain peaks and spectacular Stöðvarfjörður, famous for its Between Norðfjörður and Eskifjörður walking paths, there is something mysterious rock formations. The lies the easternmost point of Iceland, for every age and ability. Although monolithic stone structures include Gerpir. The walk to Gerpir point is summer, with its midnight sun and Einbúinn, the Hermit, which is a huge fairly easy and boasts spectacular views blossoming flora may seem like the free-standing both out to sea and back towards the obvious time, Fjarðabyggð is an ideal stone. On the east side of Álftafell Relaxed traveller, view over Reyðarfjörður. surrounding cliffs and mountains. The The old an the new lighthouse at Dalatangi in Mjóifjörður setting for year round adventure. is an equally striking 6 meter stone 30 31 In the nineties shrimp trawling was among the new directions taken by Síldarvinnslan. fish as well as frozen fish. In 1970 the company was the first company There were steady in Iceland to aquire a stern trawler. Most fishing companies in Iceland improvement in followed suit in the next decade.

technology in the Disaster strikes capelin fisheries, On the 20th December 1974 disaster struck. The town of Neskaupstaður with technologically was hit by two enormous avalanches, which killed twelve people, destroyed advanced ships like the fish meal plant and damaged production of fish meal and fish Beitir and Börkur the freezing plant and much more. oil. It operates in three towns in Seven of those killed were employed Iceland. It handles fishing quotas by Síldarvinnslan. This was a heavy which are the equvalent of 20.000 blow to the town and almost all of fish tonnes. About 210 people the production facilities in the town work for the company and the were destroyed. It was four days turnover was 90 million US dollars in 2009. Síldarvinnslan operates built in East Germany for Icelanders, before Christmas, in the darkest period of the year. These were dark a technologically advanced plant not only for Síldarvinnslan. The two in Neskaupstaður, freezing both new ships came to Neskaupstaður days indeed in Neskaupstaður. Rebuilding started immediately. demersal and pelagic fish. It operates in 1965. Two more boats, built in no less than three well equiped Norway, came in 1966 and 1967. Until March 1975 all the fish caught was salted, but then the freezing processing plants for producing fish meal and fish oil, in Neskaupstaður, tonnes of herring in that year, but New challenges plant resumed operations with a Síldarvinnslan: the peak production was reached in Seyðisfjörður and Helguvík near In 1967-1968 the herring bonanza new fish meal plant opening almost 1966 with 107.533 tonnes.. Already Keflavík. It owns two large ships who came to an end, the herring a year later. In february 1976 the a dozen or so boats were operating fish pelagic species, one freezing disappeared and new ways had first capelin was processed and the out of Neskaupstaður in the herring rebuilding came to an end. trawler and one ice trawler. To find A big wheel in a small community to be found to occupy the fleet. out more please see their website : fisheries, but in 1963 the company Capelin came to the rescue, the decided it was time to aquire its own After the cod www.svn.is. Síldarvinnslan is based in the herring boom. Siglufjörður was the finally responded by investing in a hitherto little in-demand pelagic boats. In a show of the workings of In the seventies the course was set for town of Neskaupstaður in Eastern traditional centre of the herring processing plant in a company open fish had been swimming fearlessly politics it was decided to the company, with capelin and cod Iceland. This town was orginally industry, but now other towns for all to invest in, which aquired the in Icelandic waters but because order the boats from shipyards in the mainstays of the . primarily a cod fishing town, but like Neskaupstaður joined. In the name Síldarvinnslan. The share of of the disappearance of herring East Germany. The town council, The cod wars changed the situation in the fifties it started to change year 1952 the salting of herring the co-operative was originally 60%. now became the object of intense of Neskaupstaður was at the time for the Icelandic fishing industry, course, processing the abundant commenced here after a lengthy hunting efforts. The technologically squarely in the hands of the Socialist obtaining exclusive rights to the herring offshore. The sixties were interval. The need for a processing The golden age of herring very advanced herring fleet could Party, which was sympathetic to fishing grounds around Iceland for the golden age of herring, and the plant to produce oil and fishmeal be employed to catch this fish in The plant was opened in the summer the East Bloc and quite powerful Icelanders. Others were excluded, company flourished. grew steadily. The co-operative immense numbers and soon the of 1958. It received about 4.000 in Iceland. A number of boats were but not without resistance. The cod Then the herring disappeared, processing plants were humming wars between Iceland and Britain but the company diversified and again. In 1973 a new ship, Börkur raged intermittantly from 1971 until started fishing other kinds of fish, NK 122, was bought and this was the 1976, when the British finally threw both pelagic fish like capelin and largest ship used for fishing pelagic in the towel. also demersal species like cod fish ever seen in Iceland. It had the In the nineties shrimp trawling was and haddock. Síldarvinnslan is capacity of catching over 1000 tons among the new directions taken by now one of the largest companies on each fishing tour. Síldarvinnslan. There were steady in the Icelandic fishing industry, Moreover, the interest for cod had improvement in technology in the operating in 3 towns and handling grown. A new kind of trawler had capelin fisheries, with technologically a considerable share of the Icelandic been seen in Icelandic waters, the advanced ships like Beitir and fishing quota. kind were the trawl was let out and taken in at the rear end, called Börkur. In the demersal fisheries the Roots stern trawlers, but no Icelanders tendency was to equip the trawlers with freezing plants so the fish could The roots of the company lie in the had invested in such ships. In 1965 be frozen directly at sea, as fresh as co-operative of the fishermen in times were lean for cod fishing, and possible. Neskaupstaður. In 1957 there was a Síldarvinnslan took over some of the operations of the co-operative SUN. growing demand for a fish meal plant A giant in the east, and in that could process the leftovers of This involved Síldarvinnslan buying every part of the country salted herring. The herring industry the freezing plant of the co-operative had taken off in a big way, while and a host of plants and equipment. Síldarvinnslan is now one of the the codfishing languished. Herring Síldarvinnslan had now become largest fishing companies in Iceland. was salted all around Iceland, and involved in the demersal species It is the biggest company in pelagic the East fjords developed a big industry. It started to produce salt fisheries and it is leading in the 32 33 not notice it because it is deep down in the mountain. An info center for the project is at Végarður, where you can also find a nice camping and a new guesthouse, and you can ask for tours into the mountain in hunt for turbines and trolls. At Skriðuklaustur you’ll find many If getting away from interesting things. The most famous the cares of life is building at Skriðuklaustur is quite spectacular, built by the Icelandic high on your list of author Gunnar Gunnarsson in 1939 in a Bavarian style. Gunnarsson priorities, then you donated the building and the whole estate to the nation in 1948 and since have come to the year 2000 it has been open as a centre right place. of culture & history with various exhibitions and activities. The local approximately September 20th till the Reindeer in front of Gunnarsson’s home at Skriduklaustur food restaurant and café Klausturkaffi end of October- autumn being one is situated on the 1st floor. of the best times of year to catch a At Skriðuklaustur you’ll also find the glimpse of these noble creatures with – Fljótsdalshreppur remains of an Augustinian monastery the stags sporting their lofty antlers in established in 1493. The monastery all their glory. ended by the Reformation in 1550 The Home of the Reindeer in but in 2002 an excavation started Mountain Therapy revealing the old ruins. It is one of Long walks in the crisp mountain the biggest archeological project in air, skiing on the high peaks of the Iceland and has confirmed that the “eastern alps” or just chilling out in a Grassy Heaths and Fertile Valleys main purpose of the monastery was “hot pot” at the local pool, winter in to be a hospice for the sick and poor the Eastern Fjords is therapeutic and Despite its few inhabitants, the inhabitants is not more then 83, Fljótsdalshreppur and surmounts the and the monks did run a hospital will leave you refreshed and renewed. rural district of Fljótsdalshreppur who are spread on thirty farms as green valleys beautifully. The second there The remains of the monastery A quote from the Mjoeyri Travel has many things worth seeing. the district has no densely populated highest waterfall, Hengifoss 128 m. are accessable to visitors and guided Service website says it best: It is probably the place to go if areas. and his neighbour Litlanessfoss with tours available. Mjoeyri Guest House “The mountains of Fjarbyggð region your main mission in Iceland was The reason for the size of beautiful surrounding of basalt pillars, This summer, a new information give this part of Iceland it’s distinctive to see reindeer, as it is the main Fljótsdalshreppur is that a big part is down in the valley and attracts center for Vatnajökull Glacier character, and have a huge influence dwelling of these gallant animals. of it lies in the highlands, in fact all some 30.000 visitors each summer Park, opened at Skriðuklaustur. on the lives of the people who live There, you will also find places the way to Vatnajökull glacier. This Fljótsdalur played a role in the Snæfellsstofa is located in a brand here. Just to live in these fjords, with great historic value, as well is where the reindeer dwell, although middle ages and is part of the Sagas, new building, the first one in Iceland and Travel Service surrounded by beautiful mountains, as the second highest waterfall it is also fairly likely, especially in the such as Sturlunga saga and Hrafnkels to get an ecological certification from is a source of great inspiration and and the highest mountain outside winter, that you will see a group of saga. Valþjófsstaður with its church, BREEAM, a British measurement solace for all the inhabitants. To us, rating for green buildings. glaciers. reindeer down in the valleys. In the is famous for a medieval door now Tucked away in the folds of the Explore and discover a watching, kayaking and more! With a it is almost as if the mountains reach Vatnajökull National Park is no The district lies in the inmost part of highlands you will also find hiking kept at the National Museum, carved tranquil eastern fjords, lies the plethora of museums and swimming out and embrace us as we arrive, bid less magnificent from the East side less often travelled side of the inland, often referred to as Hérað. trails and the natural hot pool at and decorated in byzantic style. village of Eskifjörður, one of six pools in every town, there is simply us welcome, and give us feelings of than from the South side. Plus, it Iceland Fljótsdalshreppur actually contains Laugafell. Fljótsdalur has also made history towns in the Fjarbyggð region of something for everyone. The Mjoeyri belonging and well-being.” has become more accessible from The list of things to do in the area is vast lands, while the number of Fljótsdalshreppur is also at the afther the millenium. Next to East Iceland. Guest House is ideal to use as a base the East in recent years, with a new almost endless and Mjoeyri Travel inmost part of Lake Lagarfljót, with Valþjófsstaður you will find the Holmatindur Peak, Eskifjörður’s for exploring the area and offers the If getting away from the cares of life paved road up to the highlands from Service would be delighted to help its’ myths of a living worm, the gigantic power station of Karahnjukar pride and joy, towers over the town, possibility of breakfast and dinner to is high on your list of priorities, then Fljótsdalur. Snæfellsstofa, contains you plan your stay. Recreational monsterous Lagafljotsorm. It divides Hydro Power Project. But you might standing guard and it is within start and end your day. you have come to the right place. The a great bulk of information for this activities offered in the region include into two green valleys, South Valley this magnificent setting that you will serenity, the peace, and the gentle flow interesting area in addition to a fishing, boating, skiing, golf, ice and North Valley, combined into the find the Mjoeyri Guest House and Autumn in the East of life in the Eastern Fjords will be like permanent exhibition which shows, climbing, hiking, bird watching,cave nothing you have ever experienced. valley of Fljótsdalur. Sheep breeding Travel Service. East Iceland is also home to a herd through multimedia representation, tours, nature observation, horse used to be the main farming, but of some 5000 reindeer which come all the wonders of the park riding, diving, northern light For directions and further information nowadays it has diminished and down from the highlands in the fall to see their website: http://mjoeyri.is/ more people seek work out from begin the mating season lasting from their farms. Fljótsdalshreppur is a great area aensku.htm The highest mountain in Iceland to visit for those seeking nice environment of historical interest which is not under glacier, is Snæfell, The waterfalls, Hengifoss Mount Snæfell seen through reaching 1833 m. It is located in that could surprise them with a flock Norðurdalur. and . of reindeers.

Ruins of the 16th century monastery at Skriduklaustur 34 35 – Breiðdalur The Broad Valley of the East Driving east on highway No.1, house is ideal. For a big family with you’ll come across Breiðdalur, or energetic children, there is enough “the Broad Valley.” In this beautiful space both inside the hotel room valley, surrounded by lofty peaks itself and outdoors along the vast and sheer cliffs, lies the village of black beach to run and play after Breiðdalsvík; whose broad and fertile area offer visitors many great which a nice cup of hot chocolate by outdoor activities, and it’s village, a the hearth will be just the thing! vibrant cultural life. Indeed, the hotel has been carefully and thoughtfully designed to include something for everyone. Autumn is especially fascinating in this The village of Breiðdalsvík is calm and area of the country; while on a walk in its inhabitants friendly; guests will search of berries, you’ll undoubtedly surely get the feeling of countryside witness the many shades of brown living, yet almost every service is and moss-green. Breiðdalur is said conveniently within walking distance. to be one of the most genial areas of In addition the region offers plenty Iceland, known for the colorful rhyolite of activities that make the most of mountains which surround it, rising to the beautiful, natural surroundings. a height of some 1,100-1,200 meters. Rockcollecting amongst the beautiful hyalite formations in the south of the A good variety of marked trails can be Hotel Bláfell: valley, or fishing in one of the three found around Breiðdalsvík, both for local rivers are just two of the many longer and shorter tours. In Breiðdalur The old Co-op, Breiðdalssetur. activities guests can enjoy. When you will find three of Iceland´s most Research and heritage centre relaxing in the sauna and rounding beautiful fishing rivers, Breiðdalsá, and tourist information centre. off the evening by the fireplace after Tinnudalsá and Norðurdalsá. Walking such a day, guests might just discover along Breiðdalsá don’t miss Beljandi, Between Sheer Mountains Walker was especially conspicuous what life is all about. the most beautiful waterfall in the area. in the fifties and sixties; many of the Hotel Bláfell also has its own Autumn is the ideal time for hunting older folks of the area still remember restaurant, proudly serving up the for geese, ptarmigan and even reindeer him driving around in his Land Rover finest local ingredients. Bláfell takes while fishing for brown trout is possible and camping out the whole summer and the Blue Sea pride in serving hearty traditional throughout the year. with his wife. The work and the stories Hotel Bláfell is the perfect The village of Breiðdalsvík, has many make the hotel quite attractive from of this extraordinary character can be romantic getaway; a charming, interesting things to see such as it’s oldest the outside. However, it is the inside seen in an ongoing exhibition at Gamla wooden building, located in the house known as “Gamla Kaupfélagið” that is particularly charming, the Kaupfélagshúsið. village of Breiðdalsvík in eastern or “the Old Co-op”, and Breiðdalssetur, a rustic wood interior give the nice Breiðdalsvík has another collection Iceland. cultural centre that deals especially with feeling of actually being out of town connected to geology; a well organised geology, linguistics and history. Many Surrounded by high, steep, in the middle of nature. and informative mineral collection for of the cultural events of the region take magnificent mountains on the one Each of the 25 rooms is equipped those interested in the many wonders place in Gamla Kaupfélagshúsið, such side and the majestic, rolling sea with a private bathroom, TV and of the ground beneath us. as art exhibitions, events during the on the other, it is just the place to telephone. Travel related services are ever-growing Days of Darkness festival and more. unwind on a cozy fireside evening. The rooms come in all shapes and in this broad, beautiful valley, whether This year, special emphasis is on the The hotel opened in 1982, when sizes, ranging from single rooms to it´s for accommodation, dining, work of the geologist Dr. George P. tourism hardly existed in Iceland, family rooms. A quaint, comfortable just reading a good book. To perfect activities or relaxation, making it the meals; the lamb, beef and vegetables L. Walker, who was one of the first to and as visitors began to discover sitting room with an open fire is ideal the relaxation, Hotel Bláfell offers its ideal choice for your vacation. are harvested from nearby farms and study the geology of the East, especially Hazel Walker on a feald trip. the splendor of the Icelandic for enjoying a pleasurable moment guests a sauna to wind down in. the seafood in brought in by local the Breiðdalseldstöð, an ancient countryside, the hotel became a whether relaxing after a day exploring If you are looking for a romantic More information is available on fishermen. Every bread and cake is volcano, which has not been active fast favorite among those in the the local area, sitting with friends or weekend, a deluxe room in the log breiddalur.is home-baked. Even the berries used during historic times. Walker studied know. Located right in the heart of in the desserts are hand-picked by the geology of the East of Iceland with Breiðdalsvík, Hotel Bláafell is run the hotel staff. Hotel Bláfell offers great enthusiasm, spending many by Friðrik Arnason together with a variety of menus for a uniquely summers in the area, often along with his wife Hrafnhildur Hafsteinsdottir Icelandic culinary treat. his wife Hazel and some of his students. and it has the warm atmosphere of a family run inn. A stay at Hotel Bláfell is a must for The Breiðdalur area is known for any journey along Iceland’s east its nice weather, numerous walking coast. paths and beautiful autumn colors; Guests will be warmed by the an ideal vacation spot for the autumn hospitality and enthralled by the season. The friendly and welcoming natural beauty. hotel staff ensure that guests feel Friðrik, Hrafnhildur and their staff comfortable. will be sure that every visit is a Bláfell is a prominent building in memorable one. Sea carved caves at Streiti. Tinnudalsá the village, the dark wood on the Further information is available on Tinna and Norðurdalsá Rivers meet. exterior and its vibrant blue roof www.hotelblafell.is 36 37 Enchanting East Iceland - Djupivogur

As you wind your way through the fjords of Eastern Iceland, you will come to the small traditional fishing village of Djupivogur, population 454. While small in size, the area is brimming with a diversity of natural attractions that are not to be missed. In recent years, the Djupivogur municipality has begun a project which aims to introduce and educate the public about the enormous number of bird species which migrate there every year, some of which also call Djupivogur home on an ongoing basis. The Reindeer Centre and Papey Island ....the perfect puffin photo op. Originally thought to have been the home of Irish Monks before Guesthouse of East Iceland the Viking Settlement, the island of Papey, retains the oldest and smallest wooden church in Iceland, believed Skjöldólfsstaðir in Jökuldalur, close up. The small reindeer family to have been built in 1807. While East Iceland. In a building that consists of one buck, one doe and uninhabited for the last 20 years, “Langabud” was built in 1790 and Created in 2009, by Icelandic in the main building is full of charm used to be the schoolhouse for a year old calf. Locals say that the guided sightseeing tours of the island is one of the oldest houses in east artist Sigurður Guðmundsson, it and character and can accommodate the area, Aðalsteinn Ingi Jónsson buck and calf are very friendly, but are possible with the ferryboat “Gísli Iceland. Now renovated, it serves as a consists of 34 large scale replicas 40 guests but also the hotel has a runs a guesthouse which is the female is very shy, so don´t be Papey” which also offers specialised cultural centre for Djúpivogur, partly representing 34 bird species found new restaurant with seating for 200 dedicated to the reindeer in offended if she seems aloof. On bird and seal watching tours. Seals by housing a heritage museum, an in the area. Each one different from persons, ideal for groups and special Iceland. Besides the guesthouse, location is also a crafts store where are often seen sunning themselves exhibiton on the sculptor Ríkarður the other, with shades of colour, events. There is also a bar, and your with its various memorabilia you´ll be able to purchase purses, on the skerries and whales are not Jónsson and a small salon in memory shape and nuance, is beautifully stay is not complete until you have connected to reindeer, reindeer hats and various trinkets all made unknown in these waters as well. of Eysteinn Jonsson, a former executed. tasted the freshly caught fish and hunting and other things out of reindeer skin, hair and horns. With approximately 30,000 pairs minister in Iceland. At Langabúð other seafood dishes on the menue. reindeer, Aðalsteinn runs a small of puffins nesting on the cliffs of there is also a cozy coffeehouse Hótel Framtíð- A family Hótel Framtíð also runs the camp zoo where the animals can be The Origin of the Reindeer Papey and surrounding islands, offering homemade cakes and other run hotel offering rooms, site in Djupivogur. seen close up. During hunting in Iceland visitors are practically guaranteed an season the Centre becomes a Icelandic specialities. For further information about In 1771, the first group of reindeer to opportunity to catch sight of these summerhouses and veritable hunting lodge. apartments. Djupivogur and surroundings please arrive in Iceland was from Norway popular sea birds, as well as eider The Eggs of Merry Bay see the following websites: This friendly hotel with its charming and was put ashore in the Westmen ducks, guillemots, and kittywakes. djupivogur.is The Guesthouse Just 900 metres from the Djupivogur atmosphere and marvellous views Islands and on the south coast of hotelframtid.com The walls of the guesthouse Langabúð village centre at Gleðivík,( Merry over the harbour offers comfortable the country. The second group Bay) lies undoubtedly one of the birds.is lined with antlers, skins, reindeer came in 1777 and was put ashore The oldest house in Djupivogur, accomodation. The hotel´s restaurant most unusual sculptures in Iceland. products, pictures and information on Reykjanes Penninsula, and the and can accommodate up to 37 third in Northern Iceland in 1784. people, in either made up beds or All these groups died out however, sleeping bags. Breakfast is included and a fourth group, which was and other meals are available on put ashore in Vopnafjörður in 1787 request. Included in the price is survived. This is the basis of the access to a small swimming pool and present reindeer stock in Iceland. a jacuzzi. The Center’s kitchen can The stock is now around 5000 accommodate groups of up to 120 animals and efforts are made to people for special occasions, where keep that size each year. Each year you may of course order reindeer hunting quotas are issued according steak, which is a real delicacy, as well to both areas and gender, that way as a host of other dishes all made of it is ensured that the population reindeer meat. is spread equally and the ration of males to females supports the Zoo and Crafts Store breed‘s renewal. At Klaustursel Farm, which is another17 kilometers further up Fore futher information visit: valley, reindeer or“hreindýr” as they www.ahreindyraslodum.is are called in Icelandic, can be seen 38 39 Hospitality at the Harbour- - Arctic Bed & Breakfast

Explore life in a small fishing village, watch the colourful fishing vessels come into port, take a walk along on the wharf, pamper yourself at the private spa of the magnificent Blue Lagoon or visit the fascinating Saltfish Museum and get knowledgeable about Iceland´s history.....just a smattering of things to do and see in Grindavik.

Located in the historic fishing village of Grindavik, just 25 minutes from Keflavik International Airport, family run Arctic Bed & Breakfast is perfectly situated as a base from which to explore the many wonders of the Reykjanes Penninsula. With the hugely popular and inviting waters of the Blue Lagoon just 5 minutes away, Reykjavik just 50 minutes away, and mossy green lava fields just under foot, you have some of the best that Iceland has to offer at your doorstep.

Some features of Arctic B&B include: • quiet rooms with views over the Riding Tour for 2011 harbour An exciting new riding tour is in the • newly renovated kitchen & living works now, to be ready for the 2011 area summer season. The intinerary • all amenities of Grindavik within will take you from Grindavík to walking distance (restaurants, cafes, the wild and windswept coast of pubs, grocery store, bank, library, Valahnukur, to the “Bridge Between museum, geothermal outdoor the Continents”, then on to the swimming pool, post office, etc) volcanic landscape of Eldvörp, • traditional Icelandic breakfast and culminating with a refreshing • complimentary Wi-fi in every swim in the Blue Lagoon. For more room information please see their website • 20% discount available with a stay listed below. of 5 days or more • open all year round

Reykjanes Pennisula caves, the Viking Ship Museum, the beckons you.... Saltfish Museum, the Gunnuhver hot Arriving at Keflavik Airport at the springs, the Reykjanes Light House, north western tip of the penninsula, the “Bridge Between Continents”, you will be forgiven if your first the educational Reykjanes Power thoughts, as you look out over the Plant, ship wreck sites, bubbling landscape, are ones of dismay and mud pools and steam vents, and of you have probably heard by now course the famous Blue Lagoon. that it looks a bit like you just arrived on the moon. Fear not! There are Innkeepers Helgi and Sunneva so many hidden gems awaiting your welcome you and will be happy to discovery. The partial list includes: help you organise your stay in the outdoor geothemal swimming area. For booking and directions to pools, golf, hiking on ancient Arctic Bed & Breakfast please see walking paths, sea-angling, trips to their website: Eldey Island for bird watching, lava http://www.arcticbandb.com 40 and sensitive comments, the flowing on my back.” But every rain storm, and fascinating panoramic views are snowfall, or foggy weather eventually perfectly embedded into music that comes to an end and it is precisely in had been produced exclusively for these moments, when the sun breaks the film. through the clouds, that you know it has been worth all the effort. Every Risking all for the perfect time it is like a revelation and can‘t be shot described in words.“ 2 cameras, 2 tripods, a camera crane and dolly for mobile shots, a New perspectives notebook, a bunch of batteries, hard On his first landing approach to disks and more go into the production Iceland many years ago, Erdmann of a film project like this. Erdmann dreamt about filming the natural spared no trouble or expense to get landscape from above. After the perfect panoramic shot he was extensive search he met the Icelandic aiming for. He climbed Blahnukur pilot Þórhallur Òskarsson. The peak ten times with more than two have flown more than 2.000 portrayed in a way that no other note is a commentary (in Icelandic) 30 kilos of equipment on his back, kilometres over Iceland, taking the film about Iceland has been able to about ISLAND 63° 66° N by Icelandic waiting patiently for the exact timing footage for this unique film project achieve. Within the growing ranks environmentalist Omar Ragnarsson and setting to record the alpine world with a completely new perspective of Iceland’s fans in German speaking can be found on his blog: The film is of Landmannalaugar the way he had on the fascinating landscape of the countries, this exceptional film has available throughout Iceland and at been dreaming of, but to no avail. island: the result of which is Iceland already gained cult status. Also of www.icelandfilm.com Finally, on his eleventh hike, success From Above “This land appears to lie came : glowing rhyolite hills, light under a spell and it often seems to me and shadow, clouds slowly moving that Earth is holding her breath. We acrosson the hillsides, a perfect view are floating over a great, overall work of the central highlands. These are of art, hundreds of square kilometres the moments that are worth any -always re-creating and shaping exertion. itself anew, yet showing absolute „Any traveller to Iceland knows perfection at any given moment.“ -A that the weather can change quote from Stefan Erdman’s latest drastically from one moment to the film ICELAND FROM ABOVE.. next. Filming on „Laugavegur“ for instance, was especially frustrating,” ISLAND 63° 66° N Stefan recounts. “I had to do the hike - A declaration of love and ICELAND 63° 66° N: in stages, going up and down several homage to Iceland times, sometimes in the pouring rain, A film that is intense, emotional and or in thick fog or through deep snow informative, Erdmann’s love and A remarkable Filmproject about Iceland and always with 30 kilos of equipment passion for the country is vividly

With a thundering noise, gigantic is heard- “The first time, I felt so hands. The third time I wept with joy, desire… longing. You belong waves come rolling onto the deeply touched by your beauty, happiness to be here once more, and in my life forever. “ These words black lava beach, and the evening your serenity. the thought of having to say farewell sound like a declaration of love sun paints a supernatural light on The second time you made me was overwhelming. You are with from a man to a woman - however, the water’s surface. A man’s voice feel secure, composed and in good me… day by day. You arouse in me they are a declaration of love to a country. To Iceland. It is the voice of Stefan Erdmann and his preliminary words of the first part of the documentary“ISLAND 63° 66° N“.

30.000 km on the road, and more than 500 hours of footage Stefan Erdmann began this project many years ago on his own initiative. He ended up criss-crossing the country by jeep 16 times, flying hundreds of kilometers with his friend Þorhallur Oskarsson in an ultralight airplane and hiking for many days in the Icelandic Highlands. More than 500 hours of footage was shot, the essence of which has been skillfully composed by the filmmaker, who succeeds in bringing the viewer very close to the action. Narrated with informative 42 43 – Rauða húsið At the Birthplace of the Icelandic Lobster Industry

A voyage to Iceland would not be an active day. Those who choose an complete without a visit to the evening of indulgence can savour the birthplace of the Icelandic lobster Catch of the day, which consists of industry. Visitors will no doubt three different seafood dishes prepared want to indulge in a feast of the from the freshest ingredients available. finest Icelandic seafood at the Pair a bottle of fine wine with any of Rauða húsið restaurant, located in the menu’s offerings and cap it off the picturesque seaside village of with one of the Rauða húsið’s signature Eyrarbakki. In this beautiful red desserts. Serving a variety of delicious house, waits the dining experience fish and meat dishes guests will find the of a lifetime, served in a charming restaurant’s cuisine is a nice mixture atmosphere surrounded by a rich of international and Icelandic cuisine, and well-preserved history. but local ingredients are certainly the Eyrarbakki, once an important trading feature. Hotel Ranga centre in Iceland, has evolved into Take advantage of the enjoyable a tranquil village of less than 600 experience of walking around the inhabitants. Many of the houses in village of Eyrarbakki before or after a were built in the early 1900s and the hearty meal at Rauda Husid. The walk Stay in Iceland with Class village has maintained a turn of the various seafood delicacies. In fact it was originally built as a store by one could continue along the beautiful black century, freewheeling charm and was not till the mid 20th century that of the women who pioneered in the beach only few minutes away from the atmosphere. Rauða húsið takes this the locals discovered that not only was area. The restaurant boasts beautiful village. What could top a relaxing stroll Now that Iceland is getting ready Hótel Rangá is a four star log-cabin each designed and themed for inquire about helicopter trips to the enchanting ambiance to new heights the small Langoustine lobster edible, it original wooden floorboards and dates by the water after an exquisite dining to put on its winter clothes with styled resort, renowned for its each of the seven continents. For infamous Eyjafjallajökull. that will delight the palate with a taste was delicious! back to 1919. Those who arrive by at experience? all the accompanying activities quality accommodation, service those looking for the ultimate stay of the bounty of the sea. Guests will appreciate the care taken noon often choose a hearty bowl of Rauda husid, Búðarstíg 4, Eyrarbakki. and natural phenomena – the and gourmet food and extensive in Iceland be sure to inquire about The area surrounding the hotel is Lobster fishing in Iceland was born to maintain the sense of history langoustine soup or a light seafood Tel. 483 3330. www.raudahusid.is; days are inevitably getting wine list. The hotel has been the Master Royal Suite, which has thought by many to be the most off the shores of Eyrarbakki in 1954. within the restaurant. The red house salad in advance of venturing out for [email protected] shorter and the nights are heralded as one of the best hotels served as a temporary home to efficient site to catch sight of the Icelanders were late to discover the getting colder. It is therefore of in Iceland and even all of Europe, some of the most prominent people elusive aurora borealis. Check paramount importance to enter which comes as no surprise when in the world. their website for predictions and into a realm of warmth and luxury looking at the elaborate interiors updates. after a busy day of activities and and the personal service on offer. The hotel is conveniently located sightseeing and things don’t get One of the latest additions is the close to all of the best attractions For more information and booking any more luxurious than Hótel World Pavilion – seven new suites South of Iceland has to offer, visit www.hotelranga.is Rangá in the South of Iceland. including Gullfoss, Geysir, Þingvellir, Landmannalaugar, Þórsmörk and Vestmannaeyjar islands to name a few. The hotel is also located in the middle of what is now being called “The Ring of Fire,” an exciting area with geothermal and volcanic activity all around. Be sure to “Voted one of Europes top hot 100 Hotels“ – Sunday Times, May 2010

44 45 Stakkavík Fish Factory- We wanted to put special emphasis on Icelandic products A new take on an age old tradition and products with The Stakkavík Fish Factory in Grindavík, has recently diversified a close connection in an unexpected direction by to Iceland’s culture, offering tourists a look at how fresh fish is processed and packed nature and history. for export. A unique opportunity, We’re very excited to see the results, Stakkavík is the first company in which will be made clear on May 1st, Iceland to venture into this arena. the same day of the summer opening Why has nobody thought of this -Design Shop Kraum of Ásmundarsafn,”says Halla. before? Like many brilliant ideas, it During the so-called DesignMarch seems so simple once it has been put Kraum will be especially crowded. into practice. From March 18-21 six new designers will display their works in Kraum. A Powerhouse of the Fishing Carrying the Torch for the During this event Reykavík is expected Industry to be full of interesting lectures and Until about 1940 Grindavík only had exhibitions reflecting the diversity in a few hundred inhabitants. Then a Icelandic design. For more information, harbour was created to shelter the Founders of Reykjavík visit kraum.is fishing fleet, and the town started to grow. It is only a short sail to some One of the oldest houses in of the best cod fishing grounds in century Icelandic independence many operating a business was taking Reykjavík is located in Aðalstræti the world, so growth conditions movement. too much time from the design part. 10, where design shop Kraum were excellent. The number of small We wanted to find a venue in which currently offers unique design by and medium sized motor vessels The perfect fit we could present the best Icelandic over 200 designers. It is very fitting multiplied and fishermen flocked to When a housing conservation designers have to offer in one place and that Icelandic products are being Grindavík to settle there. In the sixties committee gained control of the when Aðalstræti 10 came our way we sold in this historical building since the population had grown to about a house and started renovations it knew it was a perfect fit. “Elephants of the North”Highly it was originally built to promote original whale sculptures made out thousand people, and continued to was decided that it was desirable for We wanted to put special emphasis Icelandic production. of glass. grow in the seventies and eighties. In such an historical building to house on Icelandic products and products recent years growth has slowed, but In the mid 17th century there was very a business connected with its origin. with a close connection to Iceland’s little production going on in Iceland Halla Bogadóttir, manager of Kraum, culture, nature and history. What we with a population of about 3000 it is the packing of fresh fish, which is now belonged to the emperor are still and what we now know as Reykjavík was at that time looking for a venue didn’t want was to sell souvenirs mass nonetheless one of the powerhouses the mainstay of production. Today active and visitors are able to observe There are already was little more than farmlands and for an ambitious business idea. “I felt produced in different continents. So in of the Icelandic fishing industry. Stakkavík owns one large long-liner, 6 artisans hand painting the porcelain several tourist empty fields. An entrepreneur called that me and many of my colleagues a way we feel as if we are carrying the to 8 smaller fishing boats as well as a and carving the jade so it is only From Salt Fish to Fresh Fish Skúli Fógeti wanted to change that were too scattered across town and for torch for Skúli Fógeti,” says Halla. fishing quota to the tune of 3.100.000 natural that the process of fish packing, destinations in and had several factories set up in The company, founded in 1988, cod. so central to Icelandic economic life what became Reykjavík’s first street. started off selling their own salted Be Profound like Halldór from about 1940 onwards, is shown Grindavík, the Blue Aðalstræti 10 is now the only house left fish from a 300 square meter building. Laxness Exhibiting Fish Processing to tourists. of Skúli’s enterprise and therefore one Over the years Stakkavík steadily Lagoon, the Salt As a part of that effort Kraum started to Tourists of the oldest houses in Reykjavík. After expanded into larger and larger a competition where designers were The practice of exhibiting production The Viewing Platform and the factory was shut down the building premises, buying fishing boats and Fish Museum, the invited to come up with products processes is a widespread one and an Restaurant was changed to a residence, where fish quotas and finally it owned no in the spirit of one of Iceland‘s most integral part of the tourist industry Originally the platform were tourists harbour, and now some of Iceland’s most prominent less than thirty fishing boats all over prestigious painters, known simply as almost everywhere. In Peking the can view the production line was citizens have stayed, including Jón the country. Soon the company Erró. “The results were incredible and enamel and jade factories that once intended as an additional room for a the added the Sigurðsson, the leader of the 19th Hang your clothes on Icelandic started diversifying from salt fish to we now have on offer many of the items staff dining hall. Then the company possibility of seeing wood and rocks. which came about from the contest at Let the Icelandic cod light up your started to invite guests, business reasonable prices,” says Halla. One of partners and others, to come and view fish packing in day with this chandelier made out these is the winning piece; a writing of dried fish skin. the production from the platform. action. board in the shape of a caricature Erró From there the idea developed to made of Iceland’s most beloved author invite tourists to come and see the Halldór Laxness. Halldór, a Nobel Prize factory. There are already several winner, was considered extremely tourist destinations in Grindavík, the witty and eloquent so whatever Blue Lagoon, the Salt Fish Museum, notes you write on the speech bubble the harbour, and now the added the emanating from his mouth will surely possibility of seeing fish packing in automatically become profound. action. This year a new competition has started and this time it is the sculptor Stakkavik Fish Factory invites you A helpful reminder of excess Ásmundur Sveinsson who sets the to take a peek into Iceland’s past, and immoderation is this plate, motif. “Last time we wanted to focus enjoy coffee and a light meal on the which show you the Icelandic on more practical designs, but this time Take the Icelandic nature home with premises. Further information can be consumption pattern while you around we’re expanding and calling for you. There is real moss growing inside found at www.stakkavik.is eat. Photos: Ingolfur Juliusson clothing and ornamental items as well. this ring so remember to water it. 46 47 we‘ll TAKe you There! DAy Tours To All The mosT exciTing plAces in icelAnD

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