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Evliyâ Çelebi Konuşmalari / Yazilar EVLİYÂ ÇELEBİ KONUŞMALARI / YAZILAR Hazırlayan: M. Sabri Koz Yap› Kredi Yay›nlar› - 3455 Evliyâ Çelebi Konuşmaları / Yazılar Hazırlayan: M. Sabri Koz Düzelti: Filiz Özkan Kapak tasar›m›: Nahide Dikel Grafik uygulama: Hasan Fırat Bask›: Mas Matbaacılık A.Ş. Hamidiye Mah. Soğuksu Cad. No: 3 Kağıthane-İstanbul Telefon: (0 212) 294 10 00 e-posta: [email protected] Sertifika No: 12055 1. bask›: ‹stanbul, Ekim 2011 ISBN 978-975-08-2120-2 © Yap› Kredi Kültür Sanat Yay›nc›l›k Ticaret ve Sanayi A.fi. 2011 Sertifika No: 12334 Bütün yayın hakları saklıdır. Kaynak gösterilerek tanıtım için yapılacak kısa alıntılar dışında yayıncının yazılı izni olmaksızın hiçbir yolla çoğaltılamaz. Yapı Kredi Kültür Sanat Yayıncılık Ticaret ve Sanayi A.Ş. Yapı Kredi Kültür Merkezi İstiklal Caddesi No. 161 Beyoğlu 34433 İstanbul Telefon: (0 212) 252 47 00 (pbx) Faks: (0 212) 293 07 23 http://www.ykykultur.com.tr e-posta: [email protected] İnternet satış adresi: http://alisveris.yapikredi.com.tr Evliyâ Çelebi’ye Göre Mora Yarımadası ve Girit’te Bağcılık ve Şaraplar1 Evangelia Balta - Yücel Dağlı Çev.: R. Aslıhan Aksoy Sheridan Giriş İstanbul’dan yola çıkan Evliyâ Çelebi bin Derviş Mehmed Zilli (1611 – yak. 1685) otuz altı yıllık uzun bir dönem boyunca İran’dan Orta Avrupa’ya, Rus steplerinden Habeşistan’a uzanan geniş bir alanda yolculuk etmişti. Ar- ketipik Osmanlı “dünya gezgini” (kendi tanımıyla “seyyâh-ı ‘âlem”) ola- rak Evliyâ, Seyahatnâme’sinde, Osmanlı İmparatorluğu’nun çok kültürlü ni- teliğini ve özellikle de XVII. yüzyıl ortasında egemenliği batıda Habsburg- 1 E. Balta’nın not: Bu çalışmanın daha önceki bir versiyonu, Yunanistan’ın ilk şarapçılık uzmanı olan Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona’nın 80. doğum gününü kutlamak üzere Volos Üniversitesi’nde (26-27 Ey- lül 2008 tarihlerinde) gerçekleştirilen bir konferansta sunulmuştur. Sevgili arkadaşım merhum Yücel Dağlı ile işbirliğimizin amacı, Evliyâ Çelebi’nin metninde Malvasia şarabına yapılan göndermeleri or- taya çıkarmaktı. Stavroula Kourakou-Dragona, uzun yıllar boyunca bu ünlü şarabın Orta Çağ ve Rö- nesans dönemlerindeki kökenini aydınlatmak konusunda çalışmıştır. Yücel Dağlı o sırada yoğun bi- çimde Türk Dil Kurumu için hazırladığı bir projeyi tamamlama uğraşı içinde olduğundan konferansa şahsen katılıp araştırmasını sunma olanağı bulamamıştı. Konferansın onur konuğuna bir selam me- sajı göndermiş ve benden mesajı tercüme edip ortak bildirimizi sunmadan önce okumamı rica etmiş- ti. Bu mesajı burada kaydediyorum: Madam Kourakou, Eylül 2004’te siz ve Oinon Istoro topluluğundan arkadaşlarla Kapadokya’da birlikte geçirdiğimiz hafta hayatımın en ilginç ve güzel haftalarından biriydi. Bu nedenle o atmosferin bir benzerini yeniden tatmak umuduyla Sem- pozyuma katılmayı dört gözle bekliyordum. Ancak işler umut ettiğimin aksine gelişti ve sizin için çok önemli olan böyle bir günde toplantınıza katılıp aranızda olma olanağı bulamadığım için çok üzgünüm. İnşallah güzel günler- de, güzel yerlerde yeniden birlikte oluruz. Saygılar, Yücel Dağlı 103 Evliyâ Çelebi Konuşmaları / Yazılar Macaristan’dan doğuda Safevîlerle Kürt-Ermeni sınırı boyuna uzandığı bir dönemde bu imparatorluğun sahip olduğu zengin maddi kültürü tüm yönle- riyle yansıtmıştır. Bugün Yunan devleti sınırları içinde bulunan bölgeyi de, seyahatine 1645’te Girit’ten başlayarak ve 1668’den 1671’e kadar Yunanistan anakarasını, İyon ve Ege adalarını, Girit’i (8. Kitap) ve doğu Ege adalarını (9. Kitap) içine alacak biçimde gezerek anlatmıştır.2 İstanbul Topkapı Sarayı Bağdat 304 no’lu yazmanın 8. cildinin 2003 tarihli basımı Evliyâ’nın Yunan topraklarında gerçekleştirdiği seyahatin tümünü kapsamaktadır.3 Kuşkusuz, XVII. yüzyıl üzerine çalışma yapan akademisyenler, Evliyâ’nın yapıtına baş- ka herhangi bir kaynaktan çok daha sıklıkla atıfta bulunurlar ve onun sun- duğu bilginin güvenirliği konusunda çeşitli görüşler beslemektedirler. Ancak yapıtı üzerinde yapılan çalışmaların sayısı arttıkça Evliyâ’nın güvenilirliği- ne olan inanç da çoğalma eğilimi göstermiştir. Robert Dankoff, “Evliyâ’nın başlıca işi olan betimlemeyi yaparken genellikle aklından geçenleri söyle- diğini varsayabiliriz” görüşünü dile getirir.4 Bu nedenle, biz de Yunan dün- yasının en önemli iki şarap üretim bölgesi olan ve Malvasian şarabının ilk üretim yeri olduğu ileri sürülen Morea (Monemvasia-Menekşe-Benefşe) ve Girit’teki (Malevizi) bağcılık ve şarap üretim koşullarının haritasını çıkar- mak için Evliyâ’nın tanıklığına başvurmayı seçtik.5 Oinon Istoro/Şarap Tarihi 2 Evliyâ Çelebi’nin yapıtının Yunanca çevirileri ve bu yapıtta ele alınan Yunan dünyasına ait bölgelerle ilgili olarak yapılan diğer çalışmalar için de bkz.: “An Evliyâ Çelebi Bibliography” (“Evliyâ Çelebi Bib- liyografyası”) <http://www.bilkent.edu.tr/~tebsite/kaynaklar/evliya.pdf>. Yunanistan yöreleriyle il- gili bazı başka çalışmaların künye bilgileri ise D. Loupis’in yayımladığı Evliyâ Çelebi kitabının göz- den geçirilmiş üçüncü baskısında belirtilmektedir: Οδοιπορικό στην Ελλάδα (1668–1671). Πελοπόννησος – Νησιά Ιονίου – Κρήτη – Κυκλάδες – Νησιά Ανατολικού Αιγαίου, εισαγωγή, μετάφραση από τα τουρκικά, σημειώσεις: Δημήτρης Λούπης [Seyahatnâme’nin Yunanistan Bölümleri (1668–1671). Mora Yarımadası – İyon Adaları – Girit – Güney Ege Adaları (Cyclades) – Doğu Ege Adaları], Giriş yazısı ve notlarla Türk- çeden çeviri: Dimistris Loupis], Atina: Ekdoseis Ekate, 2005: 10-11. Evliyâ’nın Yunanistan toprakların- daki seyahatlerinin çevirileri üzerine bir değerlendirme için bkz. D. Loupis, “Το Οδοιπορικό του Εβλιά Τσελεμπί ή οι βιβλιογραφικές περιπέτειες μιας περιήγησης” [Evliyâ Çelebi’nin Seyahatnâmesi ya da bir gezinin bibliyografik maceraları], Η “Καθ’ημάς Ανατολή” [“Our East”] 3 (1996): 173-185. 3 S. A. Kahraman, Y. Dağlı ve R. Dankoff, yay. haz. Evliyâ Çelebi Seyahatnâmesi. 8. Kitap. İstanbul: Yapı Kre- di Yayınları, XLIII, 2003 (Bundan sonra Seyahatnâme. 8. Kitap olarak anılacaktır). 2000 ile 2003 yılla- rı arasında Seyahatnâme’nin Topkası nüshasının 8. Kitabı’nın transkripsiyon çalışmasında düzeltmen olarak görev aldım ve Seyit Ali Kahraman, Yücel Dağlı ve Robert Dankoff’la yaptığım bu işbirliği, çe- şitli ilgi alanlarım –en başta da bağcılık, şarap ve içkiler– konusunda bu zengin metnin orijinal nüs- hasında yer alan materyallerin bir dizinini yapmama ilham kaynağı oldu. Bu yazıda kısaca değinilen materyal de, benim hazırladığım dizin kartlarıyla Yücel Dağlı tarafından oluşturulan elektronik di- zinlerden elde edilmiştir. 4 R. Dankoff. An Ottoman Mentality: The World of Evliyâ Çelebi (G. Hagen’ın sonsözüyle). Leiden ve Boston: Brill, 2004: 153. Metnin Türkçe çevirisi için bkz. Robert Dankoff, Seyyah-ı Âlem Evliyâ Çelebi’nin Dünyaya Bakışı. İstanbul: YKY, 2010: 173. [Metinde bu çalışmaya bundan sonra yapılan tüm göndermeler için ki- tabın Türkçe basımındaki sayfa numaraları belirtilmektedir (ç. n.)]. 5 Hemen tüm araştırmacılar, bu ünlü şaraba verilen adların etimolojik olarak, Mora Yarımadasında yer alan Monemvasia (Menekşe-Benefşe)/Monovasia (Μονεμβασία/Μονοβασία) adlı Bizans kentinin adından geldiğinin açık olduğunu düşünmektedir. Nitekim bu Bizans kentinin adı, çok daha erken bir dönemde Latin kaynaklarında yer alan Manafasia, Monovasia ve Monemvasia (Menekşe - Benef- şe), daha sonra da Malvasia ya da Malvagia’yla örtüşmektedir: bkz. Ilias Anagnostakis, “Ονομάτων 104 Evliyâ Çelebi’ye Göre Mora Yarımadası ve Girit’te Bağcılık ve Şaraplar Topluluğu da 2006 yılında gerçekleştirdiği Uluslararası Sempozyumu bu tat- lı ve hoş kokulu şaraba ithaf etmişti.6 Ziyaret ettiği yerlerin anlatımlarında, Evliyâ Çelebi gözlemlediği bağ ve bahçeleri anlatımının dışında bırakmayıp böylelikle bize bu yerlerdeki çiçek- ler, ağaçlar, meyveler ve yapılan tarım konusunda son derece değerli bilgiler sunmuştur. Onun anlatımlarında pınarlar ve bol akarsular, nadide çiçekler ve meyvelerle süslenen bahçeler cennete benzetilir. Nitekim böyle bahçeler Evliyâ tarafından “İrem bâğı”, “bâğ-ı İrem-misâl” gibi “cennet bahçesi” deyimine denk ifadelerle tanımlanır.7 Bu ifadelerde yer alan bâğ ise sözcüğü hem bağı hem de bahçeyi işaret etmektedir.8 Evliyâ, Konya’nın ünlü bahçeleri, Malatya (Bizans döneminde Meletine, buranın şarapları üzerine daha Strabo zamanında şiir- ler söylenmiştir), Kırım, Tebriz, Budin ve Sivas gibi ziyaret ettiği yerlerde kar- şılaştığı bağların güzellik ve bereketini birbiriyle karşılaştırır. Ancak terazinin en tepesinde, Evliyâ’nın gittiği tüm bahçeleri karşılaştırmak için ölçüt saydığı Girit’teki Arhanoz (Archanes) bahçe/bağları yer almaktaydı.9 Osmanlı İmparatorluğu dönemi meyve ve sebze bahçeleri ya da ağaç ve çiçekleri hakkında çok az çalışma yapılmıştır. Ancak yakın zamanda Νurhan Atasoy “Evliyâ’nın Bahçe Algısı”na yönelik kısa bir inceleme yazısı yazmıştır.10 Bu inceleme alanına yönelik önemli bir katkı ise Günay Kut’un bir Topkapı Sa- rayı yazması yayımıdır (Yeniler 94). Bu yazmada – diğer meyve ağaçlarına ek olarak ellidokuz üzüm türünün (ünvâ‘-i üzüm) adı sayılmaktadır.11 Bu yazı- da ise, Evliyâ Çelebi’nin Mora Yarımadası ve Girit’teki bağlar ve şarap üreti- mi konusunda aktardığı bilgiler sunulmakta ve “Ek” bölümünde, Evliyâ’nın επίσκεψη. Μονεμβάσιος οίνος –μονοβασ(ί)α – malvasia” [Adlar dizisi: Μονεμβάσιος οίνος –μονοβασ(ί) α – malvasia], I. Anagnostakis (ed.), Μονεμβάσιος οίνος –Μονοβασ(ί)α – Malvasia [Monemvasia ( Menekşe - Benefşe) Şarabı – Monovas(i)a – Malvasia], ΟΙΝΟΝ ΙΣΤΟΡΩ [Oinon Istoro / Şarap Tarihi] V, Uluslararası Sem- pozyumu 17, Atina: Ulusal Eski Yunan Araştırma Vakfı, 2008: 90. 6 Stavroula Kourakou – Dragona, “H ποικιλία αμπέλου malvasia και οι κατ’ όνομα μαλβαζίες” [Malvasia Üzüm Çeşitleri
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