2014 SICILY GUIDE

2 Dear Traveler,

elcome to our Sicily guide! The purpose of this book- let is to W provide you with some background information to help you get the most out of your tour. You’ll find a basic history as well as an intro- duction and orientation to the destinations we’ll see along the way. We’ve listed the location of Internet cafes and restaurants and given you ideas to help you get the most out of your free time sightseeing. Your tour guide will of course be teaching you along the way, reinforcing some of the things in this booklet and giving you additional information. Your input will help shape this and make it even more useful for future tour members. You can help improve it by letting us know when you find a great little restaurant, handy Internet café or a fascinating museum you visited during your free time. Read through this before your tour and be sure to bring it with you on the tour as well. Our hope is that you’ll fi it useful. We have a real passion for Sicily and look forward to sharing it with you.

Contents

Introduction ...... 3 Caltagirone ...... 35 General Geography ...... 3 Villa del Casale ...... 37 General History ...... 4 Agrigento ...... 38 Sicilian Culture ...... 10 Segesta ...... 39 Mafia ...... 13 Appendix ...... 40 Palermo ...... 14 Sicilian Architectural Monreale ...... 21 Vocabulary ...... 41 Cefalù ...... 21 Packing Tips ...... 43 Taormina ...... 24 Telephones ...... 44 Mt. Etna ...... 27 Tour at a Glance ...... 48 Siracusa ...... 28

Sicily 3

Introduction fi many reminders that shape the multicultural society. The poverty here, Many travelers who claim to “know” particularly in the late 1800s and early Italy have never set foot south of 1900s, caused a large wave of emigra- Rome. But plenty of Italophiles say that tion, much of it to the USA. Many locals the fun starts once you leave Rome’s have an uncle Tony in New York or a southern city limits. cousin Julia in San Francisco. Italians refer to Sicily and the rest The land of the Mezzogiorno is a land Mez- of Italy south of Rome as the of surprises and we are excited to dis- zogiorno , which means midday and cover them with you. refers to the hot sun that blazes down much of the year. To many Italians Sic- ily is poor, backward and plagued by General Geography organized crime. Yet travelers fi the • Sicily is shaped like a triangle and region to be warmer, less expensive, has an area of 9,200 square miles, and less touristed. Less English is spo- slightly larger than Vermont, about ken here and the people are friendlier, 10% of the landmass of Italy and the so practice your Italiano and your hand largest island in the Mediterranean. gestures! • Population 5.2 million, out of Italy’s The north with its Grand Canal, David total population of about 60 million. and St. Peter’s is more familiar, yet in Sicily you’ll fi sites the equal of any- • Surrounded by three seas: Mediter- thing you may have seen in the north ranean on the southwest coast, of Italy. Stare face to face with some Ionian on the east coast, and Tyrrhe- of the world’s best Byzantine mosaics nian on the north coast. The Sicilian in the cathedral of Monreale—a literal coastline is about 650 miles and Bible in gold. Sit in Taormina’s Greek much of that is beach. theater looking out at still-smoldering • Home to Europe’s largest active Mt. Etna and you can’t help but feel volcano—smoldering, sputtering, goosebumps. Marvel at the rich arche- 10,900-foot Mt. Etna. Actual height ological ruins of Siracusa dating to the varies depending on effects of the 5th century BC. Explore the brilliant most recent eruption! Roman fl mosaics in the Villa del Casale. The Greek infl e is particu- • Located 2 miles from the “toe” of larly strong in the south of Italy—we’ll Italy’s boot across the Strait of Mes- see better preserved temples here sina and 100 miles from Tunisia in than in Greece itself! Sicily has some North Africa. of Italy’s best beaches and on this tour • 4/5 of the island is mountainous, we made sure that you’ll have time to at one time an extension of the enjoy them. The cuisine of Sicily varies Apennine mountain range that runs from one province to the next as do the down the spine of the Italian boot wines. As the region was historically from when Sicily was actually still overrun by many foreign powers, you’ll attached to the mainland.

4 Sicily

Sicily is an island of “bastardi puri.” ping practices). The Greeks enjoyed a The world’s fi st multicultural society, comparatively advanced civilization Sicily’s history and culture are a patch- and introduced new industries and work of all of the civilizations who have agriculture to the island. It was the lush at one time or another controlled the forests and abundant supply of lumber land and its people. with which to make ships to replenish the navy that initially drew the Greeks From the fi st wave of invaders (the to Sicily, having already deforested Siculi and Carthaginians) to the sub- their own country. In addition, sheep sequent Greeks, Romans, barbarian rearing, cheese and wine making, olive Vandals and Ostrogoths, Byzantines, oil production and fi g built a rich Arabs, Normans, Swabians (Germans), island economy. Some of the more Angevins, Spanish and fi ally Romans famous ancient Greeks to call Sicily again under the guise of the Italian home include Archimedes of “Eureka!” government, Sicily has been changing fame, philosopher Empedocles, play- hands for 33 centuries. This revolv- wright Aeschylus, and mythological fi - ing door of civilizations has produced ures like the Cyclops, Persephone and a rich and culturally diverse treasure Hephaestus. Early Sicilian architecture trove of artistic traditions, cuisine, copied that of Greece, and throughout architecture, and historic monuments our travels we’ll see several examples to explore. And Sicilians in turn have of Greek architecture at Taormina, Sir- spread their culture throughout the acusa, Agrigento and Segesta. world. Between 1880 and 1910 over 1.5 million left Sicily for the US. Space Invaders While the Greeks rested on their lau- General History rels, the Romans were roamin’, incor- porating more and more territory and Early Settlers conquered people into their Republic, The earliest known inhabitants of the including Sicily after they won the island were the Siculi, based in the Punic Wars against Carthage (starring east, the Sicani in the west, and the Hannibal and his elephants). Sicily Elymni with settlements in northwest- became the Republic’s fi st province, ern Sicily. The Siculi were able to domi- and the Romans referred to Sicily as nate and the island came to be named “the Republic’s granary”, as her fertile after them. soil and temperate climate fed the In the 8th century BC the Greeks set- future Empire. tled in Sicily and Southern Italy, calling Sicily also became renowned as a play- the new colony Magna Graecia. Wher- ground for the rich and was a favorite ever the Greeks settled they hellenized vacation spot for Emperor Caligula. the locals, leaving their indelible mark The incredible, fanciful mosaics that in the way of artistic traditions (think we’ll see at the Imperial Villa at Casale, ceramics and metallurgy), architectural a palatial hunting lodge of 40 rooms, styles (temples and theaters), and reli- offer a glimpse at the decadence of the gious beliefs (mythology and worship- wealthy Romans.

Sicily 5

After the fall of the Roman Empire in even today. All of these crops, in par- the 5th century AD, Vandals, Goths and ticular the citrus groves, surrounding Byzantines occupied Sicily in (relatively) the port town the Arabs called Ziz quick succession. The Byzantines would (Palermo), gave the area its nickname later leave their mark in the form of Conca d’Oro (Golden Shell). The Arabs shimmering gold church mosaics in in Sicily are best remembered for the churches constructed for the Norman splendor of their court, seen today in kings. After the Byzantines came the their palaces and the church mosaics Arabs, making their full-fledged inva- infused with superior craftsmanship sion of the island in the 9th century, and Islamic decoration, and also for bringing with them a knack for taking their sophisticated and cosmopoli- the best elements of previous societies tan society. During their reign Sicily and fine tuning them to their advantage was the most racially diverse land in (much like the Romans did). Europe, home to Africans, Jews, Arabs (from Spain, Egypt and Syria), Berbers, Arabs honed Roman engineering skills Persians, Greeks, Lombards, and Slavs. and introduced Persian irrigating sys- tems which enabled Sicily to become Stormin’ Normans the most productive agricultural center By the 11th century, the Normans in the Mediterranean. Arabs brought (think Vikings or Norsemen who had in new crops such as lemons, oranges, settled in France, ancestors of Wil- fi s, mulberries and silk worms (for liam the Conqueror) had stealthily silk production), cotton, sugar cane, taken over the island, more by means papyrus, palms, melons, and pistachio of political manipulation than hostile trees that infl e Sicilian cuisine invasion. The Popes in Rome needed

6 Sicily a guard-dog and were willing to offer notch in a king’s belt. Most rulers hap- control of Sicily to bandit brothers pily grabbed the title but didn’t actu- Robert, called Guiscard (the Cunning), ally live in Sicily, governing the island and Roger Hauteville in exchange for instead through representatives called a promise from them not to attack the viceroys. Charles I only once ever Papacy. visited Sicily himself, en route from Malta to Naples. Under his reign, the The Normans under the royal family of estates of noblemen were confi cated Hauteville continued Sicily’s cosmo- in order to pay his French soldiers who politan tradition, fully accepting the were keeping order on the island. Not previously established Arabic, Latin surprisingly, indiscriminate plundering and Greek heritage and artistic tradi- and heavy-handed taxation directed tions of the island. The most famous of by the faraway king led to uprisings the Norman rulers was Roger II (1093- among the locals, the most infamous 1154), who ruled most of Italy south being the Sicilian Vespers rebellion of Rome with Palermo as the capital, of 1282. On Easter Monday following and whose cathedral in Cefalù and Vespers as people were gathered after sumptuous court in Palermo (Palazzo church services, French soldiers car- Reale and Cappella Palatina) attest to ried out a search for arms among the his importance as Europe’s wealthiest populace of Palermo. One of the sol- ruler at the time. You’ll see his Italian- diers molested a Sicilian woman and ized name Ruggero II on many a Sicil- was killed on the spot. Subsequent ian street and square. vendettas resulted in the murder of The Normans were fairly benevolent every Frenchman in the city within conquerors who merged Arab and Byz- a matter of hours. The test to see antine artistic styles and left a lasting whether or not someone was French or legacy like the stunning mosaics we’ll Sicilian was his ability to pronounce see in Palermo, Monreale and Cefalù. the word ciciri, (CHEE-chi-ree—a tricky During Norman rule the land was par- word meaning garbanzo bean). French- celed out as fi doms or large estates, men pronounced it SHEE-shi-ree and a system of feudalism that would even- were summarily executed, including tually give rise to a notorious Sicilian peaceable French monks from the phenomenon, the Mafi When the last monasteries. The uprising soon spread Norman ruler died without an heir, the to the countryside until every last throne passed to the Swabians and Frenchman on the island was slaugh- was ruled gloriously by Frederick II, tered within weeks. “Stupor Mundi” (Wonder of the World) In response to the Sicilian Vespers until his death in 1250. uprising, Sicilian nobility enlisted their French v. Spanish enemy’s enemy, the Spanish House of The next powerhouse to reign was the Aragon, to protect the local populace French House of Anjou (Angevins), and so the land passed into the hands headed by Charles I. At that time the of the Spaniards. Eventually an absen- title ‘King of Sicily’ was just another tee Spanish king ruled Southern Italy

Sicily 7

and Sicily through viceroys, and the Scramble for Power island became little more than a cash Europe in the 18th century was a cow for Spain. Sicily stewed among time in which the royal houses of the several different noble families for the continent were greedily scrambling next few centuries, boiling down to for unclaimed territories to pad their alternating and sporadic reigns by the empires, which in the 19th century Spanish, French and on one occasion would become the nations more or less Austrians until unifi ation in 1860. as we know them today. The death of Spanish king Charles II in 1700 marked

8 Sicily an end to Hapsburg rule in Spain and The Move Towards Unifi ation Sicily was reduced to a bargaining chip Under the Spanish House of Bourbon, on the poker table of the royal houses the whole system of nobility, aristoc- of Europe, fi ally being awarded to racy and feudalism in Sicily began to the relatively weak royal House of buckle in the 18th century. Bourbon Savoy from Northern Italy in 1713 in rule left a legacy of marvelous city the hopes that it would soon fall to the architecture, ornate weekend palaces more powerful control of the British. in Palermo’s suburbs, and grand, sweeping boulevards made especially The Spanish weren’t happy to see for aristocratic carriage rides. their empire parceled out and returned to fi for the island. After a furious This sort of extravagant spending in scramble for control of the island the face of the abject poverty of the involving the British Empire, Spain, masses made the foreign kings very and the Hapsburgs of Austria, the for- unpopular rulers. The time was ripe for tunes of Sicily once again swung to the revolution. Liberalism was the cry of Spaniards, this time under the royal the day, and several rebellions against House of Bourbon. taxation by the Spanish king preceded the drive for unifi ation.

Sicily 9

On May 11, 1860, nationalist patriot dus would resume again after the war and swashbuckling general Giuseppe once Mussolini was out of the way. Garibaldi landed on the west coast of Mussolini’s Fascist movement swept Sicily at Marsala with 1,000 volunteers through Italy in the 1920s and 1930s. in order to free Sicily from foreign The only remains of this period in Sic- Bourbon rule for representation by the ily are a few train stations and public Italian House of Savoy, rulers that con- buildings like Palermo’s massive post trolled parts of NW Italy and present- offi e on Via Roma. day SE France. With support from the Sicilian peasantry and fi ce guerilla Mussolini used Sicily for his Fascist warfare tactics, Garibaldi was able to propaganda, promising to eradicate defeat the Bourbon armies. the Mafi By sending his “Iron Prefect” Cesare Mori to the island, Mussolini Within days he controlled Palermo in merely succeeded in driving organized the name of King Vittorio Emmanuele II crime deeper underground, thereby of Piedmont (northern Italy), and Sicil- reducing its power temporarily. Dur- ians voted nearly unanimously for the ing WWII, the Allies used Sicily as a unifi ation of Italy. It is unclear if the stepping-stone as they moved up from Sicilians really knew what they were North Africa to invade the rest of Italy. voting for, but hey, Italian unifi ation The Mafi was used to help infi ate certainly sounded better than the for- the island, which caused a dramatic eign occupation they’d experienced for increase in their infl e after the centuries before. Allies moved on and later in the post- 20th Century WWII period. An American naval instal- Things did not get signifi antly better lation remains a few miles south of for Sicily under unifi ation. Being ruled Catania. The cities most damaged in from Rome was not that different from the war were Palermo, Messina and being ruled from Madrid or Paris. Poverty Catania, particularly the port areas. was all too common. Organized crime The Mafi trials of the 1990s and sub- controlled many aspects of society. sequent backlash are reminders that These factors and the promise of a bet- the power of this organization remains ter life across the Atlantic caused over strong and will not go away easily. 1.5 million Sicilians to leave for the US Many northern Italians feel like Sicily between 1880 and 1910. Many oth- is simply a backward place that due to ers fl Sicily for jobs in the industrial Mafi infl e and the sheer laziness centers of the north like Milan and of the people sucks away millions of Turin. During the Interwar years Mus- euros of northern tax contributions. solini called a halt to emigration on the Political parties like the “Lega Nord” grounds that it didn’t look good for a advocate a separation of the North super nation to have citizens fl g from the rest of Italy but few see this as due to poverty and that every man was realistic. needed to build Italy into the super Lately Sicily is benefi g from EU mon- state to which it aspired. The mass exo- ies and the infrastructure is slowly

10 Sicily improving. Former Prime Minister legs of a woman. At the center of the Berlusconi’s vision of a bridge span- symbol is a Gorgon, in Greek mythol- ning the Straits of Messina promised ogy a hideous woman with huge teeth, to be the next economic miracle for the terrible claws and snakes for hair, South but will probably never come to whose very image could turn men to fruition—the plan has been discussed stone. Medusa is the best known of and debated since the 1930s and the Gorgons and personifi s the terror nothing has ever come of it. The more of the seas. Sicily’s fl symbolizing time that passes the more expensive the unique autonomy of the region, is a building the bridge becomes and with Trinacria on a gold and red shield. Italy’s current economic crisis, the less Of Puppets and Painted Carts likely that funds will be directed to the Medieval Europe comes to life in the project. Instead, the economic miracle form of artisan-made puppets and of the 21st century is shaping up to be brightly painted pony carts. Traveling tourism, and a new generation of Sicil- puppeteers have been entertaining ians is taking entrepreneurialism to Sicilians for centuries with their tales of heart. Tourist centers on the island are saints, bandits and heroes, but the most becoming better and better managed favorite production in the Opera dei Pupi and more accommodating to the waves (puppet theater) is of French Paladins of tourists eager to explore the trea- (knights), especially Roland (Rolando) sures of Sicily and to seek the home- and Renaud (Rinaldo), of Charlemagne’s town families of their forefathers. court and their battle against the Sara- Even today, thousands emigrate from cens for the hand of a beautiful maiden. Sicily every year. But long-dormant Performances invariably include fero- neighborhoods in Palermo are rising cious and gruesome swordfi some- from the ashes. Local wine and olive times against dragons or crocodiles as oil have taken their place amongst the well as infi s, elaborate costumes and best in Italy. Sicilians are facing the props, and sophisticated sound effects. future with the same blend of cautious Although performances are in Italian, optimism and fatalism that has been with the melodrama and graphic depic- forged here for centuries. tions of battles you’ll have no problem following the story. Sicilian Culture Puppets are carved from olive, lemon Trinacria or beech wood and move by means of Ubiquitous symbol of Sicily, the word a metal bar running through the axis means triangular and reflects the of the body and to the right hand (for shape of the island. The Greeks circum- better control during the swordfi navigated the island and noted that the and a wire connected to the left hand. three (tri) capes (nacria) at the extremi- The puppets can easily weigh more ties of the island formed a triangle. than 30 pounds with their hand-beaten suits of armor and elaborate costumes Taken by Sicily’s beauty, the Greeks and stand up to fi e feet tall, although likened her welcoming shores to the more lightweight puppets are used

Sicily 11 in performances today. Siracusa and restaurants have buffets of delicious Palermo have puppet theaters and fre- antipasti. You’ll discover that Sicilians quent performances. dine much later in the evening than you’re probably used to, with restau- Colorfully painted carts are a reminder rants opening no earlier than 19:30- of how vividly Sicily’s medieval his- 20:00 and only just beginning to fi l tory lives on in the minds of its people. with locals around 21:00. Vibrantly depicted scenes of the Knights of the Crusades or biblical epics are Explore marketplaces and friggitorie embellished with fanciful designs cover- (fry shops or stands) for street food ing every inch of the cart, often drawing specialties like arancini: rice balls on Sicily’s Arabic heritage in the arti- stuffed with ragù meat sauce and san’s use of abstract design. cheese; panelle: salty, quick fried, light garbanzo bean fry bread; croc- Unfortunately the tradition of painted chè: fried potato dumplings made with carts has gone out of vogue and they’re cheese, parsley and egg; or savory usually only seen in tourist areas fried vegetables for a quintessential except in cases of festivals or funerals Sicilian dining experience. though the style of painting is some- times found on a Vespa scooter or tiny Sicily’s Arabic roots contributed the Fiat 500. To see examples of these habit of mixing savory and sweet ele- beautiful carts, check out the one on ments together, as in caponata: a display in Taormina’s TI, or there’s usu- sweet-sour ratatouille made from toma- ally a pony-drawn cart hanging around toes, eggplant, olives and anchovies Monreale Cathedral and Agrigento’s (every Sicilian household has their own Valle dei Templi for tourists to photo- recipe) usually eaten as an antipasto; graph for a tip, or you can stop by the pasta con le sarde: long strands of Sicilian Cart Museum, located behind pasta tossed with fresh sardines, wild the apse of Palermo’s cathedral. fennel, chopped onions, golden rai- sins, almonds or pine nuts with tomato Wining and Dining sauce; or involtini di pesce spada: thin Sicily’s cuisine is much more than slices of swordfi wrapped around pizza and pasta. It has evolved from a a fi ling of grated pecorino cheese, long history of poverty and a great vari- breadcrumbs, raisins and pine nuts. ety of foreign infl e. The island’s bounty of sun-kissed fruits and vege- Sicily’s most famous pasta dish is pasta tables grown in the fertile volcanic soil alla Norma: slowly simmered eggplant around Mt. Etna and its abundant sup- paired with tomato sauce and herbs and ply of fresh seafood come together to garnished with ricotta salata, named for produce delicious and eclectic dishes. Bellini’s opera. Chicken or veal (pollo o vitello) alla Marsala are cutlets dredged Breakfasts in Sicily are a non-event; in flour and sautéed in the dark sweet simple pastry or roll and coffee are the fortified wine Marsala, Sicily’s answer to typical offerings. Lunches and dinners port or sherry from the west coast town are far more important, with multiple of the same name. courses and imaginative dishes. Many

12 Sicily

The island’s proximity to Africa means citrus juice, almonds or espresso, you’ll find couscous and other Tunisian topped with thick whipped cream. dishes on menus. Other specialties Sicily’s wonderful fruit can stand all on include grilled tuna and swordfish its own even against all these delicious caught off the island’s shores, sea salt desserts. Try fi s and grapes, manda- from Trapani, honey from Zafferana, pis- rins and blood oranges, or get a local tachios from Bronte and delicious olive to show you how to eat prickly pears oil. Capers grow wild and some say the (cactus fruit called fi hi d’india). best in the world are found here. Buon appetito! La Dolce Vita Not unlike the US, where the further Wine south you go the sweeter the sweets Despite the fact that Sicily has a become, Sicily has a great tradition greater number of vineyards than any of delectable cakes, pastries, and ice other region in Italy, a surprisingly low creams infl ed by the sugar and quantity of those grapes make Sicilian exotic spices introduced by the Arabs wine. The majority are shipped north, in the 9th century. Americans are prob- to blend with weaker reds in northern ably most familiar with cannoli, fried Italy and France. Most of the grapes pastry cylinders fi led with sweetened that we’ll see, particularly near Agri- ricotta cheese and perhaps chocolate gento, are big, juicy and sweet table chips or pieces of candied citrus peel. grapes eaten in Italy and throughout Don’t miss cassata Siciliana, a cake Europe. Others are dried for the raisins made from a kind of sponge cake, that are used liberally in the cuisine, or sweet ricotta, sugar, vanilla, chocolate used to make fortifi wines. chunks, pistachios, cinnamon, icing, Traditionally Sicilian wine (like much of candied fruit and marzipan (sweet the wine of the South) has been known almond paste). more for the quantity, not the quality Sicilian almonds are highly prized and produced, but this is changing. Many often showcased in pasta reale (royal wineries have hired winemakers from almond paste), so-called because this the North, who bring their expertise to stiff paste is formed into the most fanci- the fantastic conditions Sicily has for ful and extraordinary shapes and real- growing grapes—lots of sun, plenty of istically painted to resemble fruit, fish well-draining hillside sites and the thin and shellfish, animals, etc.—so beauti- soil that the vines seem to prefer. ful it was considered fit for a king. Sicily has dozens of worthwhile wines Cool off with gelato (ice cream), once to explore, but note that many of the made from Etna’s snow, which comes grapes are found in Sicily alone. One in hundreds of fl ors. Sample them of the most recognizable reds is the all! Sicilians often eat ice cream sand- full-bodied Nero d’Avola, which is wiched into a soft bun called a brioche comparable to Syrah. It can be a vari- for breakfast! Or try a granita, a slushy etal, blended with other grapes like made from refreshing fresh squeezed Sangiovese or with foreign grapes like

Sicily 13

Merlot. Producers Milazzo and Planeta region has its own name for the local have had great vintages of Nero d’Avola Mafia in Sicily it’s Cosa Nostra; recently. Naples has the Camorra; and Calabria is home to La ‘ndrangheta, the group From the clayey soils around the prov- that kid- napped the grandson of J. ince of Trapani comes the DOC Bianco Paul Getty in the 1970s and sent a d’Alcamo, a pleasant, fruity, very dry piece of his ear to prove they were soft white wine; pairs well with seafood serious. or makes a nice aperitivo. The origin of the word may have its Local enoteche (wine shops) offer an roots in the Arabic “mu afah” which extensive array of Sicilian wines. Lately roughly translates to strength and more and more Sicilian wines are avail- protection. The institution got its start able in the US. Look for wines by Corvo, in the Middle Ages, when feudal lords Regaleali and Donnafugata. hired local outlaws to guard their Marsala is the most famous wine estates in exchange for protection from produced in Sicily, though it was royal authority. “invented” by a Liverpool wine mer- The Mafia as we know it today began chant who fortifi his wine to help in the early 19th century in the form it survive the long rough passage to of secret brotherhoods intended to England. This dessert wine is made protect Sicilians from corruption and from partially dried grapes, and named foreign oppression, but before long after a town in western Sicily. Marsala the brotherhoods were feeding on can be aged anywhere from 1-10 years, the same misery from which they pre- ranges from dolce (sweet) to secco tended to defend the local citizens. (dry) and can contain as much as 18 Integral to the success of the Mafia percent alcohol. Traditionally served is the code of silence called omertà, between courses, Marsala is now often which enables the activities of the paired with cheeses like parmigiano or Mafia to remain secret. gorgonzola or eaten with zabaglione custard. Mmmmm—delizioso! After the massive wave of emigra- tion from Sicily at the end of the 19th Sicilians enjoy a grappa or amaro as a century, Cosa Nostra spread to the digestivo, or after-dinner drink. The brave United States and was known as the may want to give fi y red Fuoco d’Etna Pizza Connection or Black Hand. Dur- a try. Bring a bottle of this liqueur home ing WWII the Mafia was used to help and it’s sure to be a conversation piece! the Allies invade Sicily, giving them

renewed strength after being sup- Mafia pressed by Mussolini’s Fascism during Mafia is perhaps the fi st word that the Interwar years. More recently, the comes to mind when one thinks of Mafia has been exposed for what it Sicily. Actually Mafia is a generic term is, a brotherhood of organized crime, for organized crime, an institution that a feat in and of itself considering the permeates the south of Italy. Each code of silence to which all Mafi si and Sicilians are held.

14 Sicily

The 1980s-90s were a tumultuous lent port has caused it to be coveted period of exposure of the Mafi by a parade of successive invaders. stranglehold over Sicily, even revealing The Romans, Barbarians, Byzantines, its affi ation with the highest echelon Arabs, Normans, Angevins (French), of politics. A strong government push Aragonese, Bourbons (both Spanish), to eradicate Mafi power in the early etc., have each left their lasting mark 1990s led the Mafi to strike back with on the city in a wonderful patchwork the assassination of two prominent of architecture. From glittering Byzan- judges—Giovanni Falcone and Paolo tine mosaics to fortress-like Norman Borsellino and resulted in the capture cathedrals, labyrinthine Arabic souks of Totò Riina, the so-called “boss of to opulent Sicilian baroque churches, all bosses.” Today Palermo’s airport is neo-classical opera houses and hulk- named for these two anti-Mafi martyrs ing Fascist public buildings, Palermo of the State. is a treasure trove just waiting to be discovered. Americans travel to Sicily with images of the movie The Godfather etched in The historical crossroads of the city their minds, but most tourists never is the Quattro Canti, or four corners. see any hint of the Mafi besides the Two major roads, Via Maqueda (which screaming headlines and an occa- changes names several times along its sional anti-Mafi monument (see page length) and Corso Vittorio Emanuele 19 for a list of Palermo monuments). intersect here, dividing the historic The Mafi continues to be a force that center into four quadrants: La Kalsa pervades all arenas of legitimate busi- and the Vucciria neighborhoods south- ness and politics as well as illegal east of the Quattro Canti near the activities and hinders Sicily’s economy harbor, while Albergheria and the Capo from progressing beyond a level of districts (behind the cathedral) lie minimal subsistence in many areas. roughly northwest of the intersection.

In addition, there’s the area near the Palermo harbor, known as La Cala district. As (pop. 650,000, greater Palermo is you walk north up Via Maqueda from about 1 million) the Quattro Canti, you’ll pass two mas- sive theaters that serve as additional Palermo, Sicily’s capital, is an histori- Palermo landmarks—Teatro Massimo cally cosmopolitan city located in the and Teatro Politeama. Our hotel is curve of the bay known as the Conca roughly equidistant between them. d’Oro (Golden Shell), named after the warm colors of the citrus groves Getting around Palermo planted here between the sea and the backdrop of Monte Pellegrino. Most sights are within walking distance of the theaters Massimo and Politeama Founded in the 8th century BC as a and the Quattro Canti; to save your Phoenician settlement and later called feet, take advantage of the city buses. Panormus (all port) by the Greeks, Pal- Buy tickets from kiosks at bus hubs ermo’s prized location with its excel-

Sicily 15

(Stazione Centrale, Piazza Indipen- Internet denza, Teatro Massimo), either €1.30 Ki Point is closest to the tour hotel per ride (€1.70 if you buy it on board), but has only a few terminals (Mon-Fri valid for two hours, or €3.50 for all day 9:00-13:00 and 15:30-19:00, Sat 9:00- ticket. Ask at the TI for a bus route map 13:00, closed Sat eve and Sun, Via A. or confi which buses you can take to Gravina #101, tel. 091/612-9292). complete your sightseeing plan. Internet AmstelItalia is open 9:00- Tourist Information—There are a 21:00 daily, located across from the couple of TI kiosks in downtown Pal- laundry, on Via Volturno #71 near Porta ermo near our hotel: in Piazza Castel- Carini. nuovo in front of Teatro Politeama (tel. Internet Cafè & Phone Center–Via Bari 091/740-1111, Mon-Fri 8:30-14:00 #50, one block off of Via Maqueda & 14:30-18:30, closed Sat-Sun) and about halfway between Teatro Massimo a seasonal kiosk on Via Cavour. Pick and Quattro Canti (open 8:00-22:00 up a map and a copy of Un Ospite a daily). Palermo, the comprehensive tourist information magazine listing sights English Bookstore—Feltrinelli has and opening hours, markets, theaters, a small English book section on Via public transportation info, and airport Cavour #133, one long block from transfer info. Teatro Massimo towards the harbor (open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:30, Sat 9:00- Self-Service Laundry—corner of Via 21:00 and Sun 10:00-13:30 and Volturno and Capo, a few doors toward 16:00-20:30, tel. 091/781-291). Teatro Massimo. L’Oblo-Via Volturno 62

(open Mon-Fri 8:45-19:30, Sat 8:45- Sights 14:30, closed Sunday, tel. 333/803- 2824). The following are a few sites we’ll see as a group and others to keep you

16 Sicily busy if you arrive in Palermo a day or Piazza Marina at Via Butera 1, €5, Mon- two before the tour or stay on after Sat 9:00-13:00 and 16:30-18:30, Sat your tour ends. Pick up a copy of the 9:00-13:00 and Sun 10:00-13:00, tel. tourist magazine Un Ospite a Palermo 091/328-060. for a more comprehensive list of what Cappucchin Crypt—Intrepid travelers to do and see in Palermo and confi with a curiosity for the morbid will enjoy your sightseeing plan at the TI, as many a visit to the ghoulish crypt of the Cap- churches and museums are closed for pucchin monks. For centuries the Cap- restoration. pucchins preserved their dead brethren There are a few combination tickets using a special embalming process and called biglietti cumulativi that will save then displayed the mummified corpses you money if you plan to visit more in order to convey the message, “that than one of the covered museums. which we are, you will become.” After Here’s the rundown: a while, noble families asked to be “buried” in the Cappucchin’s crypt, the Galleria Regionale in Palazzo Abatel- bodies arranged by gender, vocation, lis + Castello della Zisa + Cloisters of virgins, and children. Today this practice S. Giovanni degli Eremiti + Monreale of mummifying the dead has been dis- Cloisters (we’ll see this as a group) + continued but over 8,000 skeletons and Palazzo d’Aumale in nearby Terrasini mummies testify to the macabre custom, = €24, valid fi e days the most recent done in 1920, an almost Galleria Regionale in Palazzo Abatellis perfectly preserved child of five years. + one of the following: Castello della The Crypt is about a 20-minute walk Zisa + Cloisters of S. Giovanni degli from Piazza Indipendenza or you can Eremiti + Monreale Cloisters (we’ll see take the #327 bus from the northwest this as a group) + Palazzo d’Aumale side of the square (8 o’clock as you’re in nearby Terrasini = €10.50, valid facing the gate of the Royal Palace), tick- three days ets sold at bus ticket kiosk on northeast Any two of the following sights: side of the square. Open daily 9:00- Castello della Zisa + Cloisters of S. 12:30 and 15:00-17.30, donation of €3 Giovanni degli Eremiti + Monreale required, no photographs permitted but Cloisters (we’ll see this as a group) + postcards for sale, Piazza Cappuccini 1, Palazzo d’Aumale in nearby Terrasini tel. 091/212-117. = €9, valid three days Comments from past tour members tell us that we should remind you that this Puppet Museum—For a close look at the site is what it is—a musty “basement” traditional Sicilian folk art of puppets, full of a bunch of dead bodies dressed in check out the International Marionette faded and frayed clothing. It is interest- Museum with its collection of puppets ing but definitely not for everyone! from Sicily and Naples, as well as Africa Cappella Palatina—A visit to this evoca- and Asia, and Punch and Judy from tive chapel dating from the 12th century England, located near the harbor and gives an idea of the sophistication and

Sicily 17

cosmopolitan craftsmanship of the Nor- impressive collection of ancient artifacts man kingdom during the Middle Ages. dating from all of the most important Glorifying the chapel commissioned by periods of Sicilian history: Phoenician, the Norman king Roger II are dazzling Greek, Roman and Saracen. Highlights mosaics done in Byzantine style, partly include a bronze Aries, extraordinary by Islamic laborers. Since it is against hand-beaten gold crowns, a very fine the custom of Islamic religion to depict bronze Hercules and Stag sculpture, 4th- human forms, Muslims conveyed the century BC armor, helmets and shields mysterious nature of God by creating straight out of the Illiad with barnacles intricate geometric patterns. Christ Pan- and seashells fossilized on them, tocrator dominates the apse mosaic on several large fragments of the Greek a background of solid gold, a promise of temple at Himera, the Palermo Stone a heavenly afterlife for the faithful. The with Egyptian hieroglyphs (similar to Arabic ceiling and the inlaid, multi-col- the Rosetta Stone), and replicas of cave ored marble floor complete the dynamic, drawings found in the Paleolithic Grotta eye-popping interior (Piazza Indipen- d’Addaura on Monte Pellegrino outside denza, entrance located on the backside the city. of Palazzo dei Normanni, €8.50, dur- Located between Teatro Massimo and ing special exhibits, €10, open Mon- Via Roma in Piazza Olivella #24, Tue-Fri Sat 8.30-16.30, Sun 8.30-12.00, tel. 8:30-13:45 and 15:00-18:45, Mon, Sat 091/705-4749). & Sun 8:30-13:45, tel. 091/611-6805, Museo Archeologico Regionale A. WCs on left in the courtyard as you enter Salinas—Closed for restoration but may and on first floor, head right at the top of reopen in 2013. The museum houses an the stairs.

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Teatro Massimo—This great Art Nou- after the rooms in the Chinese Villa of veau theater was built in the late 19th King Ferdinand in Naples. Open Tues- century to rival the opera houses of Fri 9:00-19:30, Mon, Sat & Sun 9:00- Vienna and Paris and serve as a sym- 13:00, €4, Via Merlo 2, tel. 091/616- bol of freedom after Garibaldi liber- 4741. ated the Sicilians from the Bourbons. Galleria Regionale della Sicilia in Teatro Massimo underwent desperately Palazzo Abatellis—Sicily’s medi- needed repairs in the 1970s and eval art collection is on display in a due to political and fi ancial snags 15th-century palazzo that still retains remained closed for 23 years, one year its Catalan-Gothic and Renaissance longer than its original construction characteristics, just a few blocks lasted. More recently, the climactic away from the haunting Banyan trees fi al scene of Godfather III was filmed entrenched in the Giardino Garibaldi on its monumental staircase. park. Highlights of this small, well- Today operas, ballets and concerts planned museum include an elegant, take place nearly year round and tick- tranquil bust of Eleonora d’Aragona by ets range from €7-100 depending on 15th-century sculptor Francesco Lau- the performance. Call 800/907-080 rana, the haunting Triumph of Death by toll free (within Italy only) or 091/605- an unknown artist, and an evocative 3380 to book tickets or visit www. Annunciation by Sicilian Renaissance teatromassimo.it to book online or painter Antonello da Messina. Open get performance information. Guided Tues-Fri 9:00-18:30, Sat-Sun 9:00- visits in English are conducted Tue-Sun 13:30, closed Mon, €4.50, covered by 10:00-14:30, last about 25 minutes biglietto cumulativo, Via Alloro 4, tel. and cost €8, call to confi times of 091/623-0011. English visits, tel. 091/605-3267, Markets—Although we’ll probably visit Piazza Verdi 9. a market during our walking tour of the

La Cala District city, you may want to explore some on your own. Markets in Palermo are cha- Palazzo Mirto—To get a sense of the otic festivals of colorful fruits and vege- lifestyle of Palermo’s 19th-century rich tables, street food including fry stands and famous, pay a visit to this aristo- and tripe wagons, fresh swordfi and cratic mansion, replete with opulent, live chickens, and household goods eclectic period pieces. One of several like cheese graters, laundry soap, and homes belonging to the Princes of slippers. Markets are a wonderful way Mirto (a town in northeastern Sicily), to experience the heartbeat of the city it was willed to the Ministry of Cultural and learn more about local culture Assets by the last surviving family through food. member and turned into a museum in the 1980s. Rooms are uniquely deco- The most famous market in Palermo rated in Baroque style with the family’s is the crusty Vucciria, which sprawls original furnishings, with one elegant near the church of San Domenico off salon done up a la chinoise, modeled Via Roma, although Ballarò market,

Sicily 19 south of Quattro Canti around Carmine Buses run every 30 minutes until convent is said to be more “authentic.” 14:30, then hourly. Buy tickets from Markets generally run all day except tobacco shops, €1.95 each way. Sundays and are sleepy during mid- afternoons with many stalls shut down Daytrip to Bagheria for siesta. Bagheria, nine miles east of the city, Note that street markets are paradises was once a summer retreat for Paler- for photographers—and pickpockets. mo’s noble classes from the 17th-19th Wear your moneybelt! centuries and is home to the ostenta- tious baroque villas that were all the Anti-Mafi Monuments rage during that time. Falcone’s Obelisk—along the freeway Villa Palagonia boasts a grotesque in Capaci halfway between Palermo menagerie of gnomes, gargoyles and and the airport you’ll see two red giants that decorate the house and obelisks marking the spot where anti- grounds. Scenes from The Leopard, the Mafi judge Giovanni Falcone’s car was movie based on di Lampedusa’s novel blown up in 1992 killing him, his wife depicting the decadent, dying, gran- and several bodyguards. deur of Sicilian aristocracy, were fi in Villa Valguarnera’s hall of mirrors, Falcone’s Tree—located on Via Notar- while scenes from Sicilian author Luigi bartolo just off Viale della Libertà, this Pirandello’s Kaos were set in the villa’s tree is a pilgrimage site for those wish- oval courtyard. Villa Cattolica houses ing to pay tribute to this courageous the museum and tomb of Sicily’s great- judge. est modern painter, Renato Guttuso, Monument to the 13 Victims—located as well as a gallery of 20th-century art. near the harbor where Via Francesco Trains run 3-4/hour from Stazione Cen- Crispi and Via Cavour come together. trale, take 10 minutes.

Daytrip to Mondello Eating in Palermo It’s just a quick seven miles (half hour The following listings are all located bus ride) north of Monte Pellegrino near Teatro Massimo. to a beautiful mile long, sandy beach La Mensa del Popolo—Locals fl k to and small seaside resort. Once an the “people’s mess hall” which spe- old tuna-fi g village, Mondello is cializes in fresh seafood and couscous where the locals fl k to escape the as well as Sicilian cuisine in Via Mari- busy city. Stroll the town, taking in its ano Stabile #58, tel. 091/325-943, ruined medieval watchtower, striking open daily. Art Nouveau pier and occasional Belle Époque villas. Catch bus #806 or #833 La Traviata offers exotic Tunisian fare from Viale della Libertà (northwest of and pizzas, seafood and meat entrees Politeama). Swimming is still nice even either indoors or under a canopy in through October and off-season it’s not Piazza Olivella #18, daily 12:00-14:30 very crowded. and 20:00-1:00, tel. 091/328-861.

20 Sicily

Ristorante Pizzeria Italia—Modesto with young people in the evening, and Lea serve up reasonably priced hanging out in the square or frequent- home-cookin’ and wood-fi ed pizzas ing the cheap watering holes in the in a comfy family restaurant just a area or the Aboriginal Cafè, which block in front of Teatro Massimo on Via boasts some of the city’s few public Orologio 54, tel. 091/589-885, Tue-Sat Internet terminals. 19:30-24:00 or until after theater lets The La Cala district near the port is a out, closed Mon. scruffy place that is slowly becoming Il Mirto e la Rosa is a local favorite, gentrifi One neighborhood institu- offering piping-hot pizzas and Sicil- tion is Focacceria San Francesco, a ian dishes in a cheery dining room bustling place for pizza, focaccia and or from a few tables al fresco (daily, other specialties enjoyed by such illus- tel. 091/324-353, Via Principe di trious patrons as Roger VII, Giuseppe Grantatelli 30). Garibaldi, and Luigi Pirandello. Only the brave sample the infamous Antica Pasticceria Mazzara is a Paler- Malfalda (tripe & lung sandwiches). mitano institution serving simple pas- Located on Piazza San Francesco oppo- tas for lunch, and artful pastries (sweet site the church. From Quattro Canti fol- or savory) and gelato anytime of day. low Via Vittorio Emanuele towards the For fancy table service outside, pay water. Take a right on Via Paternostro 20 percent cover, otherwise fi e out and follow the crowds. what you want, then pay at the cashier, and lastly order at the counter. You can Transportation Connections grab a seat inside for no extra charge. Get creative with communicating to the Palermo’s modern and easy-to-manage cashier what you want to order from Falcone e Borsellino (AKA Punta Raisi) the display case as not much English airport is located 20 miles northwest of is spoken. (Via G. Magliocco, 19, one Palermo in the suburb of Cinisi and has block north of Teatro Massimo, behind car rental agencies and easy connec- the big Banco di Sicilia building on the tions to downtown Palermo. west side of the Via Maqueda, bar/ Getting to/from Palermo to Falcone gelateria 7:30-21:30, lunch served e Borsellino Airport: 12:00-15:30, tel. 091/321-443). Your best bet is the bus. Prestia e The area around Piazza Olivella (a Comandè shuttle buses will run you couple of blocks in front of Teatro Mas- from the airport to the Politeama simo) has several doner kebap (Middle Theater in downtown Palermo (the Eastern pita sandwiches stuffed with stop nearest to our tour hotel, about a meat and vegetables) joints if you fi e-minute walk away) or to the central want something quick and cheap, and train station (Stazione Centrale). Exit there’s a grocery store (Mon-Sat 8:00- the airport and look for shuttle buses 14:00, 16:00-20:30, closed Sunday) to the right of the terminal (€6, buy ticket from driver, departs airport every in the square if you’d like to assemble 30 minutes starting at 6:30-24:00; a picnic. This neighborhood is packed takes about 50 minutes depending on

Sicily 21 traffic). From the Politeama bus stop, free time. A stairway towards the back stand with the theater on your left and of the church leads up to the roof head straight in the same direction the (small admission fee) and allows you bus was traveling. Turn right onto Via to get a close look at the beautiful geo- Richard Wagner and follow it four blocks metric stonework. Outside the church to Via Mariano Stabile. Hotel Tonic is you can wander around to the back to on the other side of the intersection at see the designs from below. A visit to #126. To get to the airport, this same the cloisters offers a chance to see the service (the stop is to the left of the intricately carved capitals up close. Politeama façade as you’re facing it, on the corner of Via Turati and Viale della Libertà) will drop you off at the depar- Cefalù tures hall. It runs from 04:00-23:00, tel. (pop. 18,000) 091/586-351. You can take your bag with you on the bus or use the luggage The historic center of Cefalù has storage under the bus, but don’t expect retained its medieval character, domi- the driver to help you load or unload. nated by the fortress-like hulk of the Norman cathedral with its craggy, The less convenient Trinacria Express mountainous backdrop. Explore this train shuttles between Stazione Cen- fi an’s village, poking around trale and the airport for about €5.50, Cefalù’s alleyways festooned with col- buy tickets at ticket windows in Central Train station (runs from 4:45-22:05, orful laundry, strolling its sandy beach takes about 45 minutes, departs about or hiking up to the ruined temple and hourly), ends at airport one level below castle above town. As you wander ground fl about town, pop into the laundry (lava- toio) dating from the 9th century for Taxis from the airport to downtown a peek at how locals did their wash- hotels run about €50 depending on traf- ing in tubs fed by a spring, even until fic, time of day, number of bags, etc. It is wise to confirm at least a rough idea recently. of the price before departing. The picturesque fi an’s harbor has been the setting for many mov- Monreale ies, including the 1989 fi Cinema This town located in the hills south Paradiso. Pop up onto the Belvedere of Palermo is known for one of Sic- Marchiafava just off Piazza Crispi, to a ily’s great sites—the stunning Norman tranquil spot to sit, write in your journal cathedral literally wall-papered with and contemplate the sea or have a pic- golden mosaics that tell the stories of nic where the ancient Greek walls pro- the bible. Built in the 12th century, the vide the foundation for a 16th-century mosaics were done by the same crafts- citadel. To the east you’ll spot the faro men who did Cefalù’s cathedral that we (lighthouse). Cefalù is a great place will see later. Bring coins to put in the to practice the fi art of the passeg- coin-operated boxes throughout the giata (evening stroll), gelato in hand, church to illuminate the interior. or to enjoy an aperitivo al fresco in the A local guide will give us a tour of the Piazza Duomo as you people-watch. interior, after which you’ll have some

22 Sicily

Orientation cathedral is fortress-like with its twin towers standing against the mountain- There are basically four parts to Cefalù: ous background. Most of the interior the beach, the old town, the hill above is pretty plain, allowing the mosaics the town and the new town. The beach in the apse to stand alone, rendering is golden sand and the sea is perfect them all the more powerful. The portrait for swimming. Float on your back; of Christ Pantocrater (creator of all) is you can take in the whole town in a thought to be the purest rendition of His single glance. Just a few portions of the image, the locks of hair falling across beach are private. Cefalù’s old town is His forehead giving an added feeling of bisected by Corso Ruggero, the bustling humanity, the dazzling gold background pedestrian main drag. You’ll fi many conveying His majesty and the glory of restaurants and shops as well as the heaven to the faithful (daily 9:00-13:00 TI along this arterial. In the center is the and 15:30-18:30; summer 8:00-12:00 café-fi led Piazza Duomo and the Duomo and 15:30-19:00). (cathedral) itself. The hill (La Rocca) is linked to the old town by a staircase and La Rocca—Fantastic views await those then a trail that leads to great views, the who make the hike up to the Temple of temple and the fortress ruins. You’ll most Diana and the ruins of the fortress. Find likely have no need to spend much time in the staircase next to the Banco di Sicilia the new town unless you need to fi the in Piazza Garibaldi on Corso Ruggero train station. and climb it up to the trail head. You’ll climb 20 minutes up a steep trail to While the view from the La Rocca is reach the Tempio di Diana, a prehistoric magnifi ent, an easier way to get a great structure later built upon in the 5th shot of Cefalù is to simply head down century BC and dedicated to Diana, god- the beach and go left until the town and dess of the moon, forest and childbirth. the mountain above it fi l your view- Veer left of the temple and continue up fi . Best in the late afternoon. to the right of the crag, past remnants Tourist Information—Corso Ruggero 77, of a medieval wall and up to the ruined Tel. 0921/421-050, open Mon-Sat 9:00- Rocca (fortress) at the top. While the 13:00 and 15:00-19:30, closed Sun. Rocca and Temple leave much to the imagination, the views from the top are Free Time Activities worth the climb. Be sure to take water Your day here will be more or less free. with you, as it’s a strenuous hike, about Cefalù has been a favorite of many tour an hour roundtrip. To save energy, do members as it offers something for this in the morning when much of the every taste. trail is in shade. Duomo—Built in gratitude by Norman Museo Mandralisca—This small king Roger II for the safe haven he museum of objects collected by the Baron found at Cefalù during a violent storm Mandralisca focuses on Sicilian culture at sea, the 12th-century Duomo con- and is worth a wander. Of particular note tains the oldest and some say the fi st are a Greek krater (wine jar) depicting Byzantine church mosaics in Sicily. The a tuna salesman hacking up fi for a

Sicily 23

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24 Sicily customer and a work by Sicily’s most reasonably priced meals served under a famous Renaissance artist, Antonello da medieval rib-vaulted dining room. Open Messina’s Portrait of an Unknown Man, Tue-Sun 13:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:30, who wears a self-satisfi smirk. Ancient closed Mon & Tue at midday, Via XXV terracotta vases, lamps, pots, fi s, Novembre 10, tel. 0921/423-570. 19th-century place settings of noble fami- L’Antica Corte is another good choice lies and stuffed fauna from the area fi l for well-priced local cuisine and wood- the museum’s three fl s. fi ed pizzas—dine inside or outside in Take a peek into the window just uphill the tiny courtyard, Corso Ruggero 193 from the museum for a look at the Man- or Cortile Pepe 7, tel. 0921/423-228, dralisca family’s olive oil warehouse. Fri-Wed 12:00-15:00 and 19:00-24:00, Open daily 9:00-19:00, €5, Via Man- closed Thu. dralisca 13, straight ahead and downhill from the cathedral, tel. 0921/421-547. Taormina

Dining in Cefalù (pop. 12,000) Al Porticciolo’s sea view terrace is Situated high on Mt. Tauro, overlooking a gorgeous backdrop for expertly the Ionian Sea and smoldering Mt. Etna, prepared seafood and pastas and a Taormina has long been a favored haunt divine version of cassata Siciliana among the literati and jet setters and is (ricotta-spongecake confection), fi e Sicily’s most famous resort. Taormina €20-35/person, reservations smart for is a wonderful setting in which to terrace seating, Thu-Tue 12:00-15:00 practice il dolce far niente (the sweet- and 19:00-24:00, closed Wed, Via ness of doing nothing) while strolling Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro #66, tel. the charming medieval city center and 0921/921-981. enjoying the stupendous views. Vecchia Marina has fresh seafood, The town is dominated by the main creative pastas and elegant desserts in drag, Corso Umberto I, with dozens of a waterfront dining room on Via Vittorio little alleys snaking off each side, and a Emmanuele #73, closed Tue during low grand panorama of the bay from Piazza and mid-season, daily otherwise, tel. IX Aprile. Three medieval gates mark the 0921/420-388. corso, one at each end, and a middle gate which doubles as a clock tower you Osteria La Botte is family-run and can actually walk through. serves tasty grilled fi traditional Sicilian specialties and good, afford- Tourist Information: Located on ground able wine in an intimate dining room fl of Palazzo Corvaja, open Mon-Fri presided over by hardworking Toti and 8:30-14:00 and 16:00-19:00, closed crew. Via Veterani 6, tel. 0921/424- Sat and Sun tel. 0942/23-243. 315, open Tue-Sun, closed Mon. Internet: Las Vegas located up an alley La Brace Ristorante specializes in off Corso Umberto I between the clock grilled meat and seafood and offers tower and the Duomo on Salita Alex Humboldt #7, open daily 10:00-22:00.

Sicily 25

Internet Point/Edicola on Corso Best Views: From the Greek theater, Umberto I #214, 75 meters past the from Piazza IX Aprile, from Madonna Duomo on the right, open daily 8:00- della Rocca (a 20-minute uphill walk/ 21:00. stair climb from Corso Umberto I), and from town of Castelmola (see map Free time activities above). Palazzo Corvaja—The ground fl Castelmola—To reach this tiny village of this historic palace houses the TI, perched high above Taormina, ride where you’ll fi not just maps and a the bus or take a taxi up, then walk staff who can answer your questions down (being careful of stretches with but a display of puppets and a deco- no railing and of the occasional don- rated cart. Upstairs is an interesting key). From Piazza S. Pancrazio, you little museum of Sicilian folk life, fea- can catch a local bus to take you up turing a curious look at Sicily’s super- to Castelmola (€1.50 one way, €3.00 stitions (open Tue-Sun 9:00-13:00 and round trip, buy tickets from driver). A 14:00-20:00, closed Mon). taxi up to Castelmola Castle will set you Parco Duca di Cesarò, (a.k.a Trevelyan back about €20 for up to four people. Gardens), a wonderful park 10 min- While Taormina proper has no beaches, utes’ walk below Corso Umberto I or the sea and beach access are just a few the theater, is a nice place to wander minutes away by cable car (funivia). along shaded paths with picnic perfect You can walk down as well but allow at benches. A little exploration will reveal least 30 minutes and bring a map. some fanciful “follies” made of brick, Mazzarò beach a cannon used in WWI and a small tor- is a fi sandy, fully- pedo submarine used in WWII. outfi ed cove. Here you can rent towels, lounge chairs and umbrellas,

26 Sicily snorkels, masks and fi s, paddleboats funicular station, Mazzarò’s beach and kayaks. Delfi restaurant with access (spiaggia) is from the parking its al fresco dining overlooking the sea lot of the funicular near the road. Look is a reasonable and handy lunch or for the waist-high, salmon-colored romantic dinner spot, open daily, tel. walls surrounding the stairwell. For 0942/23-004. Isola Bella beaches, exit the funivia, go through the parking lot and head right The Isola Bella beaches are free since on the road. The stairs down to the they are part of a nature preserve but beach are next to La Baia restaurant can be crowded. There are nearby and directly across from the stairs lead- stretches of pebbly beach which offer ing up to Taormina. towel, chair and snorkel rentals. By foot from Taormina: Walk past the Privately owned boats make hour- funicular station in Taormina, then long excursions around the grottoes, past the bus terminal (on the right including the Grotta Azzurra (similar side of the road) and to the piazza on to Capri’s Blue Grotto but much bigger the left. You’ll see stairs leading to inside), Isola Bella, and to otherwise Mazzarò, the beachside town. These inaccessible coves for a swim. While stairs are not well lit at night. Once at prices can be soft (negotiate), expect the bottom, head across the street to to spend about €25/person, but group get to Isola Bella beaches, and left to rates are possible. Many boats have the funicular station to get to Mazzarò snorkel equipment aboard; if you just beach. want to have a look at undersea life, you can save money by doing your Dining in Taormina snorkeling during the excursion and not renting the equipment once you’re La Buca—With fantastic terrace seating back ashore. Both beaches have diving overlooking the bay, La Buca serves centers for more adventurous marine up moderately priced delicious home- exploration. made pastas, fresh seafood, and tradi- tional Sicilian cuisine as well as pizzas. Picnickers can stock up on supplies Located on Corso Umberto I #140, tel. and made-to-order sandwiches at the 0942/24-314, open daily. Capricci Gastronomia in Mazzarò, open daily 8:30-20:30, just three min- La Botte has a huge antipasto buffet— utes’ walk from the funicular station, one plate equals one trip to the buf- turn right onto the road. If you took the fet. Make it your whole dinner. Piazza stairs down from Taormina, it’s about Santa Domenica 4, tel. 094/224-198, 25 yards to your left from the bottom of Tue-Sat 12:00-15:00 and 19:00-24:00, the staircase. closed Mon. Getting to the Beaches: La Dracena is a worthwhile splurge Funicular: runs every 15 minutes Tu-Su with seating on a lovely garden patio 8:00-1:00 and Mon 9:00-1:00, €2 or intimate dining room. Sample home- one-way, €3.50 round trip, public WCs made pastas and the freshest grilled in stations. Once you are at the lower seafood, tel. 0942/23-491, Via M.

Sicily 27

Amari 4, head down the alley behind Mt. Etna Duomo to the end. Europe’s largest and most active Tiramisù is a cozy, affordable restau- volcano, Etna dominates Sicily. Its rant for Sicilian specialties like involtini elevation is 10,990 feet, but this var- di pesce spada (stuffed swordfi rolls) ies slightly depending upon the effects or pasta alla Norma (fried eggplant of the last eruption. Most of the recent and salted ricotta with penne) and of eruptions have been on the southeast course, the national dessert, tiramisù side, including the November 2007 (open Wed-Mon, closed Tue, 150 yards eruption that spewed an ash cloud into uphill from Porta Messina on Via Cap- the sky and disrupted Catania’s Fontan- puccini 1, tel. 0942/24-803). arossa airport’s fl schedules for four Vecchia Taormina has wood-fi ed piz- days. The eruption of 2002 destroyed zas and homemade pastas in a rustic, the cable car and much of the Rifugio homey setting just inside Porta Catania Sapienza tourist complex on the moun- on Vico Ebrei #3 off Corso Umberto I, tain’s southern fl which has since tel. 0942/625-589, open daily 12:00- been rebuilt. For their safety, curious 15:00 and 18:30-24:00. visitors are prohibited to get close to the eruptions but sometimes the hot- Da Cristina Panifi io offers great tempered mountain displays nature’s snacks of local specialties like arancini fi eworks—often visible from Taormina. (breaded, fried rice crochettes) with One of the biggest recorded eruptions sauce, pistachios and other variations, dates back to 1669, when Catania was Messina-style pizzas, and baked pas- nearly overwhelmed and several outly- tas on the cheap, it’s tucked down a ing villages were destroyed by an enor- side street just behind the fountain on mous lava fl w, the evidence of which Piazza Duomo. Dine at one of the few can still be seen along the freeway. wee tables or on a bench nearby. Via Strabone 2, tel. 0942/21-171, open Weather permitting (and barring erup- Thu-Tue from 9am-20.30, closed Wed. tions!) we will drive up to the newly rebuilt Sapienza area at 6,500 feet to SMA Supermarket—Just uphill from take a closer look. This may involve a Piazza S. Antonio has everything you short walk around one of the Silvestri need for picnics and toiletries. On Via craters, cinder cones formed by the Apollo Arcageta #19, open Mon-Sat 1892 eruption. As we drive up the 8:00-21:00, Sun 8:30-12:30. slopes of the mountain, signs of recent Alimentari Managò—Pick up picnic eruptions are everywhere, including supplies and made-to-order sandwiches stranded buildings with only their roofs at this little grocery tucked below the visible. Naumachie. On Via Calapitrulli 16, tel, You don’t need to be a vulcanologist to 0942/24-971, open Mon-Sat 7:00- recognize the two main types of lava, 13:00 and 17:00-21:00, closed Sun (which have vowel-fi led Hawaiian and at midday. names): aa, pronounced “ah-ah”, has a reddish or brownish color due to oxida-

28 Sicily tion. It is rough and chunky in texture base to Siracusa. Under Gelon Sir- and looks like it would hurt to walk acusa entered a period of even greater on it. Aa is normally formed by fast- strength and prosperity. During Gelon’s moving fl ws that harden quickly, giv- reign the city saw the rise of cultural ing it its jagged shape. The other type, icons in the form of the Greek poet pahoehoe (pronounced “paw hoey- Pindar, who wrote of Gelon’s esca- hoey”) is darker in color and looks pades, and playwright Aeschylus who like melted fudge. Usually formed by penned some of his famous tragedies slower-moving fl ws that harden more here. Gelon defeated the Carthagin- slowly, pahoehoe has a smoother ians in the Battle of Himera in 480 BC appearance than aa. It is interesting and succeeded in ridding (for the time to see how nature has reclaimed the being) the entire southeast coast of lava-covered slopes. In fact nearly half them, allowing him to dominate trade of Mt. Etna’s surface area is designated in the Mediterranean and enrich the as a national park to protect the fragile city’s economy. Gelon’s next naval vic- ecosystem and limit development. tory was over the Etruscans at Cumae and he established a trade monopoly Siracusa over the lower basin of the Tyrrhenian Sea, further increasing the wealth of (pop. 124,000) Siracusa. By the middle of the 5th cen- Siracusa is one of the oldest and tury BC, Siracusa had become such a historically the most important of the powerhouse of trade that the city came settlements of Magna Graecia. The into confl with Athens, against which city consists of the island of Ortygia it was waging the Peloponnesian War at which is the historic core of the city the time. Athens sent an expedition to and is connected to the modern city destroy the competition but failed mis- by three bridges. The modern section erably and 7,000 Athenian POWs died of Siracusa was built adjacent to the working in the stone quarries (latomie). archeological park and the majority Meanwhile the Carthaginians sought of the Greco-Roman ruins we’ll see. revenge against Siracusa for their defeat Founded in 734 BC by Greek colonists at Himera. Dionysius I was the next great from Corinth, the earliest settlements tyrant of Siracusa and succeeded in fend- were on the Ortygia, the bird-shaped ing off attacks by the Carthaginians as island named ‘quail’ in Greek. Later he built up the city whose beauty, power the settlement encompassed nearby and prestige had grown to rival Athens. subcolonies until the population of the The city reached the height of its strength colony surpassed that of Corinth. and cultural achievement under his rule, due in part to the fortifi ations erected Siracusa’s strategic location on the sea and the literary and intellectual tradition gave rise to its rapid growth, power- which attracted the likes of Plato, Cicero ful position and expansion. In the 5th and Livy to his city. century BC the city fell into the hands of the tyrant Gelon from the settle- Unfortunately, the heirs of Dionysius ment of Gela and he moved his power were not as capable and the downfall

Sicily 29

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30 Sicily of the city began with a series of inept city was rebuilt chaotically in an ugly, tyrants constantly at odds with one modern fashion. Recently the island of another. By the 3rd century, the Roman Ortygia has made a Herculean effort to Republic was encroaching on Southern restore the quarter to its former beauty. Italy, and though Sicily became one of the fi st Roman provinces, Siracusa Orientation managed to stay out of the fi st Punic The island of Ortygia, where we’ll sleep War Rome fought against Carthage. It for two nights, is a wonderful blend was also during the 3rd century that of Ancient Greek temples, medieval native Siracusan scientist, engineer fortresses, Baroque facades and monu- and mathematician Archimedes of mental Fascist architecture. When the “Eureka!” fame invented war machines modern center of Siracusa moved to that helped Siracusa, allied with the mainland after WWII, many of the Carthage during the second Punic residents moved away from Ortygia War, stave off a two-year siege by the too, leaving the island depopulated. Romans. Archimedes was accidentally But in recent years, there has been killed during the siege and Siracusa fell a rebirth of the island community as quickly after to the Romans, ending the buildings have been renovated, hotels city’s independence. Once again under forged from older structures and as res- the control of the Roman Republic, taurants and bars breathe new life into Siracusa remained an important city the historic center. Be sure to explore in that she was the capital of the prov- the many layers of history housed in ince of Sicily as well as a buffer and the Duomo, a fascinating look at the stepping stone between the Roman way societies recycle and incorporate Republic, North Africa and Greece but earlier buildings into contemporary continued to decline from its previous structures. The Duomo was built by position of power and wealth. Siracusa Byzantines in the 7th century AD on served briefl as a capital of the Byz- the ruins of a 5th-century BC Temple antine Empire but was sacked by the to Athena. The pagan temple, built to Arabs in the 9th century. For the next commemorate the tyrant Gelon’s 480 800 years the population of the city BC victory over the Carthaginians at dropped dramatically due to famine, Himera, was remade into a Christian plagues and earthquakes. The devas- church, symbolic of Christianity’s vic- tation wrought by the massive earth- tory over paganism. The Normans later quake of 1693 provided an opportunity raised the height of the roof, added to completely restructure the city in the side chapels and a façade, which fell latest Baroque style. After the 19th- off after an earthquake in the 16th century unifi ation of Italy, the city century. In the 18th century today’s became the capital of Siracusa prov- Baroque façade was added and the ince and began to expand once again. hodgepodge was complete. The beauty Siracusa proper suffered two bombard- of the cathedral is enhanced by the ments during WWII (one by the Allies in presence of uniform Baroque palaces 1943 and one by the Germans in 1944) surrounding the square, erected in the after which the damaged quarter of the

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32 Sicily

1700s as part of the urban renewal Ortygia’s Regional Museum of Medi- program following the 1693 earth- eval and Modern Art is currently quake. closed for restoration, although Man- nerist artist Caravaggio’s Burial of St. The Fonte di Aretusa is an evocative Lucy has been relocated to the church waterfront spring which feeds into a of Saint Lucy alla Badia in Ortygia’s pond constructed in the 19th century Piazza Duomo. and today is bedecked with papyrus plants, a stately fi hus tree, and inhab- Ortygia’s helpful Tourist Information ited by fi and Peking ducks. This was offi e is open Mon-Fri 8:30-13:45 and one of the most famous fountains in Wed 15:00-17:30, closed Fri after- the Greek world, celebrated by poets noons and all day Sat and Sun, Via Pindar and Virgil as the disembodied Maestranza 33, tel. 0931 464 255. spirit of the water nymph Arethusa. Lavanderia offers drop off laundry ser- According to myth, virtuous Arethusa vice for about €8 per load (wash, soap was bathing in a river, not realizing it and dry). Open Mon-Sat, closed Sun, was the river god Alpheus. Once she at #13 Corso Umberto I, tel. 327/540- discovered his presence, she fl in 6891. order to maintain her chastity as a handmaiden of the virgin goddess Sights in the Modern City Artemis. While Alpheus pursued her, she perspired profusely and dissolved Archeological Park of the Neapolis— into a stream. Artemis opened the Siracusa’s Archeological Park is located ground of the island Ortygia for her to in the Neapolis or New City quarter hide in, but Alpheus fl wed through created by Hiero II in the 3rd century the sea to mingle with her waters. BC. The city quarter was abandoned during the Middle Ages and then used Castello Maniace, at the southern tip as a quarry in the 16th century by Holy of the island, was built by Frederick II Roman Emperor Charles V to build for- in the 13th century as part of the trans- tifi ations. Despite their destruction the formation of Ortygia into an island for- ruins are still quite impressive, the tress. The castle has been open to the Greek Theater being the highlight of public since 2009. the park. Ortygia’s puppet theater carries on Siracusa’s Greek Theater is one of the cultural tradition of handmade the largest in the world, measuring puppets performing epic stories of 455 feet across and able to seat up to Charlemagne’s knights battling against 15,000 spectators. Greek playwright the Saracens in a folk art theater with Aeschylus premiered some of his most hand-painted backdrops. The pup- famous tragedies on this stage. pet museum traces the evolution of Siracusa-style puppets, the birth of The Greeks built their theaters nestled the puppet theater and the artisan in hillsides, often with spectacular workshop where the puppets are cre- views. They believed in a balance ated (open Mon-Sat 11:00-13:00 and between the man-made and the natural 16:00-18:00, closed Sun, Via della environment. The theater’s shape was Giudecca #17, tel 0931/465-540). semi-circular to aid with acoustics,

Sicily 33 enabling every patron to hear the per- cacti and bougainvillea. Carved into the formance, despite where they were rock wall are two man-made grottoes, seated. Cavea were tiered seating, with the so-called Ear of Dionysius and the the fi st row dedicated to priests and Ropemaker’s Cave. Fugitive painter dignitaries. The skene or stage was Caravaggio gave the Ear of Dionysius on a high platform behind a circular its name, due to its form of a huge orchestra where sacrifi es were some- elfi ear measuring 69 feet to the top times made. Imagine attending a per- and 211 feet deep. The nickname also formance here! Acoustics are superb— comes from its reputation of having if you position yourself in the center of acoustics which conveyed the whispers the stage a friend sitting in the top row of the political prisoners held inside to can hear you whisper! the ears of the tyrant Dionysius eaves- dropping at the top of the stone cliff. But the Greeks did not just build their The Ropemaker’s Cave offered perfectly theaters in a hillside because they humid conditions in which to make the wanted to. They had to for support, as ropes used by the navy. they lacked the ability to build with arches and concrete (two later Roman The Roman Amphitheater—One of innovations). The Romans then put the largest Roman amphitheaters in two theaters together and using their the world, Siracusa’s amphitheater is advanced engineering skills created a partly hewn out of the rock and spans freestanding amphitheater—Rome’s 390 feet across the short axis and 459 Colosseum is the most famous example feet on the long side. of this. Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum— While the theater was reconstructed in This is Sicily’s most extensive archeo- its present form by Hiero II in the 3rd logical museum dedicated to Paolo century BC, it was renovated under the Orsi, the great archeologist responsible Romans, who built a stage set, obscur- for uncovering many of Siracusa’s ing the panoramic backdrop so prized archeological treasures and late by the Greeks. The bellicose Romans director of the museum’s collections. had little use for psychological dramas The museum is a modern fl werlike and classical comedies, so they used structure situated in the leafy green the theater for gladiatorial games and gardens of a villa. The ground fl of staged mock sea battles in the orchestra. the museum covers Sicily’s geology, plant and animal fossils and prehistoric Today Greek tragedies are once again peoples in three sections, all arranged performed in the theater in summertime. with their distinct historical, social and East of the theater is one of the stone environmental context. Highlights from quarries, the latomie del Paradiso, Section A (covering prehistory) include from which much of the stone used to complete prehistoric dwarf-hippo and build the Neapolis came and which has elephant skeletons. Section B exhibits now been turned into a lush garden of focus on Greek colonies on the island citrus trees, pomegranates, succulent dating from the 8th century BC and the ancient Greek artifacts from Ortygia

34 Sicily and Siracusa proper. Section C displays 14:30-16:00, closed Mon, located on fi s from Siracusa’s subcolonies and Via S. Giovanni. Hellenized settlements around the Santuario di Santa Maria delle Lac- island. The upper fl exhibits cover rime—The big concrete shuttlecock the island’s Roman, early Christian church in the center of downtown and medieval periods. We’ll visit the Siracusa is the Sanctuary of Holy Mary museum with a local guide who will of the Tears, built to commemorate show us the highlights of the museum a miracle which occurred in Siracusa and help us sift through the millenia of in 1953. For three days at the end of Siracusa’s history. August that year, a chalk painting of Church and Catacombs of Saint John Mary of the Immaculate Heart began to the Evangelist—Right in the middle cry human tears. Multitudes gathered of modern Siracusa are the evoca- to witness the sight, and a committee tive ruins of the Gothic church of San nominated by the Vatican analyzed the Giovanni. Built in the 1200s by the tears and found them to be human. In Normans on the foundations of a 7th- December 1953, the archbishop of Sic- century church, an earthquake demol- ily gave permission for a sanctuary to ished all of the outer structure but the be constructed in honor of the miracle. walls, the original apse and the 14th- Building began in 1966 and ended in century rose window. The importance 1995, thanks to funds contributed by of the church goes back to its founda- private donors and by the regional gov- tions, when the land was used for ernment of Sicily. The church stands the crypt of a 3rd-century martyr. The approximately 283 feet high and can fl g church almost immediately hold a congregation of 11,000 wor- excavated below the crypt to create shipers. Museums in the crypt contain discreet burial grounds for Christians ex-votos or dedicated trinkets given which were in use from the 3rd to the in thanks for answered prayers and all 6th centuries. The catacombs contain kinds of casts and braces from healed thousands of burial niches, some for limbs of the faithful as well as the origi- individuals, others for entire families, nal chalk painting of Mary herself. all centered around a main tunnel Palazzo Bellomo—This 13th-century adapted from a Greek aqueduct. Later Catalan Gothic palace hosts a hodge- in the 7th century the crypt was trans- podge of medieval, Baroque, and formed into a subterranean basilica contemporary works of art, primarily which still has frescoes dating from from local artists across the centuries. the Norman reconstruction. Mandatory Their masterpiece, the Annunciation guided visits are bilingual (English and by Antonella da Messina, may likely be Italian) and depart every 30 minutes. on loan to another museum. Very mini- Last visits begin at 12:30 for the morn- mal English descriptions. (€8, Tue-Sat ing and at 16:00 in the afternoon. Tick- 9:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-13:00, closed ets cost €5. An €8 combo ticket covers Mon, last entry one hour before clos- the Catacombs and Basilica of Santa ing, Via Guiseppe Maria Capodieci #16, Lucia. Open Tue-Sun 9:30-12:30 and tel. 0931/69-511).

Sicily 35

Dining della Guidecca #7. There are two great spots for picnics on Ortygia: the Bel- The following listings are all located on vedere San Giacomo and the Bastione Ortygia. San Giovannello, both on the east side Vite e Vitello is respected for its typical of the island. Sicilian meat dishes and its traditional pasta and vegetable dishes served at Caltagirone reasonable prices in a simple dining room from an open kitchen. Sample (Pop. 39,000) breaded, grilled steak, homemade Caltagirone’s claim to fame is its cul- sausages and ribs or veal involtini ture of colorful ceramics-making. The (rolls). Located on the corner of Via arrival of the Arabs in the 10th century Maestranza and Piazza Corpaci, tel. turned the humble local craft of pottery 0931/464-269, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 into a profi able industry. The Arabs and 19:30-22:30, closed Sun. contributed the multicolored, complex For waterfront dining, check out restau- patterns typical of Islamic art, in partic- rant row on Via Lungomare Alfeo, just ular the brilliant blue and yellow color south of Fonte Aretusa. Several trat- scheme famous to Caltagirone. Another torias of more or less equal quality and theme for ceramics made here are the price range serve up seafood, pizzas presepi, nativity scenes so dear to Ital- and pastas to hungry tourists. Browse ian Christmas tradition. A vast array of the menus and the ambience to fi fi s can decorate the manger as the place and budget that suits you. though the baby Jesus were born in a humble Sicilian village, making a more Zsà Trattoria Pizzeria serves up deli- personal connection for the poor faith- cious wood-fi ed pizzas, pastas, sea- ful to the miracle of Jesus’ birth. food and landfood to crowds of Sicil- ians who recognize a great value and The Scalinata di Santa Maria del appreciate friendly service (Via Roma Monte is the dramatic centerpiece #73, tel. 0931/464-280, closed Mon). underscoring Caltagirone’s ceramics trade. The staircase was originally built Castello Fiorentino is the local’s favor- in the early 17th century to connect the ite pizzeria and budget dining room bur- old, upper town with the newer Piazza ied in the heart of Ortygia. Inexpensive Municipio but was then a series of pizzas primi and secondi, closed Mon, shorter fl of stairs. In the 1880s Via del Crocifisso 6, tel. 0931/21-097. they were connected to become a mon- For picnic supplies you’ll fi a couple umental staircase with 142 steps. The of small grocery shops on the corner hand-painted majolica tiles were added of Via Roma at #121, open Mon-Sat in the 1950s, and more recent artisan 6:30-14:00 and 16:30-21:00, Sun ceramics shops lining the steps beckon 7:30-13:30 only, tel. 0931/60-941, visitors to admire works in progress and in Via della Giudecca #9-11, open and browse for souvenirs. The scalinata Mon-Sat 7:00-14:00 and 16:00-20:00, is the focus of the Festa di San Gia- closed Sun, as well as to-go pizza at Via como (July 24-25), the town’s patron

SICI 36

0 Ristorante La Scala 8 Bar Judica & Trieste -San Francesco Bridge 0v "Knight on Horse"Statue

Sicily 37 saint, when the stairs are lit with 4,000 of the best-preserved of their type in oil lamps and a religious procession the world and make this site well worth solemnly promenades from the church a visit. to the center piazza and back again. The villa was a luxurious hunting lodge You’ll have free time during our stop used (some believe) by the Roman to visit the Museo Regionale della emperor Maximian. After being aban- Ceramica ceramics museum, which doned in the 1200s, the villa was cov- features a wonderful collection of the ered by a mudslide that protected the 18th- and 19th-century rustic nativity mosaics until systematic excavation fi s with the contemporary cloth- in 1880s. The display of the mosaics ing, faces and gestures that bring such here is in situ, a term archeologists use realism into the sacred tableau of the to describe an artifact that has been Christmas story (€4, daily 9-18:30, Via left in place instead of carved out of Giardino Pubblico, tel. 0933 58 418). a fl or wall as most of the frescoes and mosaics at Pompeii were. A unique Caltagirone’s Giardino Pubblico is a system of elevated metal catwalks lets lovely park with manicured gardens you walk through the villa and gaze and ceramic tiled benches just perfect directly down at the mosaics. The clear for a picnic lunch. fi glass panels above simulate the

Dining original roof long since gone. It also contributes to a “greenhouse effect” Il Ristorante della Scala is a handy, within the villa, so wear clothes you good-value lunch option located on the can layer in case you get too warm. Scalinata at #8, tel. 0933 57781. From the ticket offi e, walk down the Bar Judica e Trieste offers a variety road to the villa. The visit follows a of piruni, Caltagirone’s version of cal- more or less one-way system and zone. Piruni come stuffed with ham, begins at the thermae (baths), goes cheese and tomato sauce or broccoli, around the peristyle (main courtyard) sausage and cheese, or spinach, etc. and continues to the ambulacrum. You can dine in (no service charge) or This long skinny corridor is one of the take your lunch da portar via (carry out) highlights of the visit where elaborate and enjoy it on a bench in the Giardino hunting scenes, with lions and tigers Pubblico (Via Principe Amadeo #22, and bears (oh my!) and other exotic tel. 0933/22021). animals come to life. Nearby, the room of the ten bikini girls reminds us that Free public WCs are located inside the there is really nothing new under the Galleria Don Sturzo Tourist Information sun. The route continues to the xystus center in Piazza Municipio. (elliptical courtyard) and the triclinium (formal dining room) with some fi Villa del Casale mosaics including The Labors of Hercu- les and ends at the private apartments. Located three miles outside the town of Piazza Armerina, the fl mosaics in Villa del Casale is in the midst of exten- this 4th-century Roman villa are some sive renovations to clean and restore

38 Sicily the mosaics, enhance the protective fat columns with a simple capital or roof structure covering the sprawling top. Ionic columns are more slender excavations and improve traffi fl w. and have a scrolled top while the Crowds can be large, certain sections Corinthian capital is more ornate and may be unexpectedly closed and the fl wer-like. To keep the styles straight, going can be slow on the elevated remember that the more ornate the walkways, but if you fi a space style of capital, the more syllables the between groups you will be able to get name of the style has. outstanding views. Despite the crowds The Greeks sought perfection in line and any disruptions we may experience and proportion when it came to the due to the renovations, all in all this is architecture dedicated to the worship truly a “wow” experience. of their gods. There were formulas To reach the site from the parking lot, by which the temples were built and follow the main road lined by a gauntlet which dictated the numbers of col- of tourist stalls that rivals Pisa in its tacki- umns on each side, one aspect of ness. The WC is located in the gift shop, perfection controlled by the architects. below and off to the right. Optical illusions were another key to the success of this perfection. For Agrigento example, columns taper slightly inward yet our eye “corrects” them to vertical. Once part of the territory known as If they were straight, your eye would Magna Graecia or greater Greece, Sic- perceive them to be leaning away from ily is home to some of the best Greek the center, causing the structure to ruins in the world. Agrigento is famed appear as though it were going to col- for its world-class Valle dei Templi (Val- lapse. Columns are fatter in the middle ley of the Temples), an incredible con- than they are at the tops and bottoms centration of Greek temples in varying so as to appear as though the wooden states of ruin and reconstruction. We’ll beam and tile roof were compressing explore the major temples of the Valley them, giving the viewer a sense of with a local expert who will shed light stateliness, importance and perma- on these monuments to the Golden nence. The fl s of the temples bow Age of Tyranny. up slightly to offset the eye’s percep- The temples refl the wealth and tion of a level fl sagging. If you were luxury of ancient Agrigento, (called to stand on the ground at the opposite Akragas by the Greeks), once the hedo- side of a temple from a friend, you’d nistic center of Magna Graecia. Built in only see each other from the waist up the 5th century BC on a ridge near the due to the convex fl . sea so as to be visible from the sea, Greek temples all had an inner cham- the temples served as a beacon to sail- ber or cella in the center that housed ors and to demonstrate the might of the sacred altar, to which only the the gods protecting the sacred city. priest would have had access; wor- The temples are in the Doric style as shipers stayed outside. all Sicilian temples are. This means

Sicily 39

While it was one of the most famous views of the sea and sky as its back- and richest cities of Magna Graecia, drop. Greek plays are still performed Agrigento never really recovered after here on summer evenings. being sacked by successive waves of The tourist center of the archeological Carthaginians, Romans (twice) and site at Segesta has a book and souve- Barbarians. Byzantines destroyed all nir shop/café with pastries and sand- but one of the ancient shrines in the wiches that you can enjoy at shaded 6th century AD on the grounds that outdoor tables. Public restrooms are they were pagan. in another building 50 yards from the Henry Adams, a turn-of-the-century bookshop. To reach the temple, walk American writer, once described Agri- up the hill and across the parking lot gento and its temples as “Athens with and take the stepped trail up (about improvements.” Located on a ridge 10 minutes total from the bookshop). above the temples on the site of the Your ticket will be checked at both the old acropolis, the town itself now temple and theater so be sure to hold resembles modern day Athens with onto it. its industrial development, smog, and Most Greek temples had a chamber high-rise apartment buildings. And or cella in the center that housed the despite the draw of the Valle dei Tem- sacred altar, yet no remains have been pli, Agrigento town has not benefi ed found here. The roof is open to the from the tourist revenue and in our bird-fi led sky but ought to have been short time here is not worth a visit. once crossed by wooden beams that

supported a roof of clay tiles. Like the Segesta cella, no trace exists that the roof was Segesta is another worthwhile stop ever fi shed. The stone (limestone) famous for some wonderfully pre- for the columns, fl stones and served Greek ruins. Segesta was pediment was quarried from a quarry originally founded by the Elymians who across the valley behind the temple. claimed to be descendants of Troy. Hat- To reach the theater take a fi e-minute ing the Greeks who had defeated them ride on the shuttle bus that departs in the Trojan War, they sacked nearby from the theater entrance kiosk every Selinunte until being overrun by Sir- half hour or so (can be more frequent acusa around 300 BC. depending on demand, costs €1.50 Segesta boasts two monuments to one way or roundtrip, purchase tickets Magna Graecia: an unfi shed 5th- from the bookshop cashier). Other- century BC Doric Greek temple and a wise it’s about a 20-minute uphill theater dating from the 3rd century BC. walk along the paved road through The natural setting of the Doric temple the fi ds of fl wers and wild fennel. in a fi d of wildfl wers and tall grasses Consider taking the bus up and walk- evokes the mystery of pagan Greek ing down. You’ll enjoy a fabulous pan- religion, while the theater has dramatic orama of the temple and the surround- ing landscape as you descend.

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Near the theater, you’ll see some scant Appendix excavations from a mosque and Arab- style housing which was pulled down Here is a cast of characters you’ll fi in the 13th century to make space for our guides referring to along the way: a Norman castle. There are also ruins from a late medieval church, which was People: built by shepherds and local landhold- Archimedes—2nd century BC, classical ers and used in one form or another world’s most brilliant scientifi mind, until the 19th century. he cried “Eureka” (I have found it!) when he fi ed out the theory of dis- placement. Also invented calculus, the Archimedean screw for lifting water, mirrors that burned the Roman fl the lever, and pi. Persephone—beautiful daughter of Demeter, the goddess of agriculture. In a deal with Hades, she was required to spend one-third of the year with him in Hades. The time she spends down there corresponds to the Sicilian winter, when fields are fallow and all is brown. Roger II (Ruggero)—Norman king who ruled Sicily during the Golden Age of the 12th century. Antonello da Messina—Sicily’s most famous Renaissance painter, his Por- trait of an Unknown Man is in Cefalù’s Mandralisca Museum, and his Annun- ciation is housed at the Palazzo Abatel- lis Regional Art Gallery in Palermo. Caravaggio, 1571-1610—17th-century renowned Baroque artist. Caravaggio (Michelangelo da Merisi, originally from a small burg outside Milan in the north) fl to Sicily and later to Malta under penalty of death by decapita- tion for having killed (accidentally) a Roman citizen during an argument over a tennis match. During his exile to the South, Caravaggio’s themes became darker and more morose as he drew nearer to the end of his short life, wait- ing in vain for an 11th-hour pardon

Sicily 41 from the pope, whose court had come of the Mediterranean world and send to appreciate Caravaggio’s works. victorious chariot teams to the Olympic Vincenzo Bellini, 1801-1835—born in Games in Greece. Their architecture Catania. Bellini is considered the mas- copied that of their homeland, yet the ter of the bel canto style and founder of Sicilian Greeks had no indigenous the romantic style of opera. He tried to marble. Instead (as we’ll see) they write operas with a good, well-crafted used local limestone, often covered up story, not just pretty melodies. Norma (as we won’t see) with stucco made of is his most famous work and is the only limestone and sometimes marble dust. opera to have a pasta named after it! The arts of painting and sculpture were generally less advanced than what was Roger VII (Ruggero Settimo)—19th- going on in Greece. century Italian politician, diplomat and activist for Sicilian independence. Become familiar with these architec- tural terms and you’ll get more out of Luigi Pirandello, 1867-1936—author the wonderful Greek ruins we’ll see. and playwright from Kaos near Agri- The diagram on the next page will help Six Characters in Search of an gento. you locate these terms. Author is his most famous work. His ironic style focuses on life’s inherent Temple features: contradictions and explores the nature of truth. He won the Nobel Prize for Lit- column—a vertical support consisting erature in 1934. of a base, shaft and capital Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, 1896- Doric—earliest and simplest style with 1957—aristocratic (prince of Lampe- a fl capital (top); all Sicilian temples dusa, duke of Palma and Montechiaro) are Doric author of The Leopard, a famous epic Ionic–“middle aged” style, recogniz- novel set during the time of Italian Uni- able by curlicue or ram’s horn capitals fi ation that has been called a “Sicilian Corinthian—newest order, identifi le Gone With the Wind.” by ornately carved capitals resembling Falcone and Borsellino—two anti-Mafi acanthus leaves judges assassinated by the Mafi in capital—top of the column the 1990s, now considered modern- entablature—stone beam supported by day martyrs. the columns

Sicilian Architectural triglyphs—carving on the entablature Vocabulary metopes—low-relief carvings found between the triglyphs Greek frieze—the triglyphs + the metopes The Greeks came to Sicily in the 8th pediment—triangular structure atop and 7th centuries BC and became pow- the entablature erful enough by the 5th century BC to cella (or naos)– inner room of a temple keep Carthage at bay, trade with much

42 Sicily

Theaters orchestra—circular stage where chorus chants, sings and unfolds the plot Other acted out on stage mosaic—art form which uses millions cavea—lower tier of seats of the theater of pieces of glass or ceramic tile (tes- skena—stage of the theater serae) arranged to form pictures, like pixels of a photo in low resolution Churches fresco—a tempera (egg-based) paint Duomo—the cathedral of a town, which applied over a layer of partially wet is the seat of the bishop; derived from plaster, often on a wall or ceiling of a Domus, or House (of God) church nave—the long part of a church forum—political, commercial and reli- transept—the crossing “arm” in a gious center of a Roman town church fl plan acropolis—literally “high city”, a ridge apse—end of church opposite the entry atop which Greeks often built their cities and site of altar Christ Pantocrator—image of Jesus depicted in many mosaics, means “ruler of all.” Typically this is a stern and formidable Christ. In His left hand are the gospels that say Christ is light of the world and from His right hand He blesses the viewer.

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Packing Tips If you are lucky enough to fi a coin- operated laundry, please let your guide In the next column is a handy weather know so we can share the informa- table to give you a better idea of what tion. Cheapskate’s laundry tip: save kind of clothes to pack. Sicily is warm, time and money by only washing your even into late October, so be sure to clothes at the laundry. When you get bring along clothes you can layer. There your wet clothes back to your room, are several opportunities for swimming hang them to dry. They’re usually ready and the water is usually warm enough to wear in less than 24 hours. to swim in from May–October. Despite its well-deserved reputation for sun- shine, Sicily gets some rain, which can surprise you with torrential downpours. Palermo Average Temperatures Bring a rain jacket and/or an umbrella; and Rainfall clothes that can easily drip dry are con- Lows Highs Rainfall* venient. Mar 51 61 2.3 Much of Italy’s history and culture can Apr 55 65 1.7 be explored in its churches, a few of May 60 71 1 which we’ll see, and most of which Jun 67 77 0.5 have dress codes: shoulders and knees Jul 73 82 0.2 must be covered regardless of age or Aug 74 83 0.2 gender. Consider packing zip-off pants Sep 70 79 1.6 or a scarf you can throw across your Oct 64 73 3.9 shoulders so that you don’t miss out. *average in inches Laundry facilities all over Italy are scarce, especially in Sicily. Italian households all own their own washing machines so there’s very little demand for laundromats. Dry cleaners charge an arm and a leg to clean your clothes and often cannot get your cleaned clothes back to you in 24 hours or less. Fortunately the weather in Sicily is kind and hand-washed clothes dry quickly, usually within 24 hours. It’s helpful to bring along a clothesline; we sell a bungee-type line in our online travel store: http://travelstore.ricksteves. com. Take care not to drape wet clothes over 500-year-old furniture, and it’s best to keep your drying laundry out of sight of the maids. Your shower or the wardrobe in your hotel room is perfect for this.

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Telephones • Dial the country code of the country you’re calling (39 for Italy, or 1 for Smart travelers use the telephone to the US or Canada). reserve or reconfirm rooms, get tourist information, reserve restaurants, con- • Dial the local number. Note that in firm tour times, or phone home. Gener- most European countries, you have ally the easiest, cheapest way to call to drop the zero at the beginning of home is to use an international phone the local number—but in Italy, you card purchased in Italy. This section cov- dial it. ers dialing instructions, phone cards, Calling from the US to Italy: To call a and types of phones Florence hotel from the US, dial 011 How to Dial (the US international access code), 39 (Italy’s country code), then 055-289- Calling from the US to Italy, or vice 592. versa, is simple—once you break the Note: You might see a + in front of a code. European number. When dialing the Dialing Domestically Within Italy number, replace the + with the interna- Italy has a direct-dial phone system tional access code of the country you’re (no area codes). To call anywhere calling from (00 from Europe, 011 from within Italy, just dial the number. the US or Canada). Land lines start with 0; mobile lines Public Phones and Hotel Room start with 3; toll-free lines start with Phones 80; and expensive toll lines begin with To make calls from public phones, 8, followed by any number other than you’ll need a prepaid phone card. 0. Keep in mind that Italian phone There are two different kinds of phone numbers vary in length; a hotel can cards: insertable and international. have, for example, an eight-digit phone (Both types of phone cards work only in number and a nine-digit fax number. Italy. If you have a live card at the end Dialing Internationally to or of your trip, give it to another traveler from Italy to use up.) Coin-op phones are virtually If you want to make an international extinct. call, follow these steps: Insertable Phone Cards: This type of • Dial the international access code card can only be used at a pay phone. (00 if you’re calling from Europe, These Telecom cards, considered “offi- 011 from the US or Canada). cial” since they’re sold by Italy’s phone company, give you the best deal for

Sicily 45 calls within Italy and are reasonable Buy a lower denomination in case the for international calls. You can buy card is a dud. Travelers have had good Telecom cards in denominations of €5 luck with the Europa card, which offers or €10 at tobacco shops, post offi es, up to 350 minutes from Italy to the US and machines near phone booths for €5. (many phone booths have signs indi- Hotel Room Phones: Calling from your cating where the nearest phone card hotel room can be cheap for local calls sales outlet is located). (ask for the rates at the front desk Rip off the perforated corner to “acti- fi st), but is often a rip-off for long-dis- vate” the card, and then physically tance calls, unless you use an interna- insert it into a slot in the pay phone. tional phone card (explained earlier). It displays how much money you have Some hotels charge a fee for dialing remaining on the card. Then just dial supposedly “toll-free” numbers, such away. The price of the call is automati- as the one for your international phone cally deducted while you talk. card—ask before you dial. Incoming calls are free, making this a cheap way International Phone Cards: These are for friends and family to stay in touch the cheapest way to make international (provided they have a good long-dis- calls from Europe—with the best cards, tance plan for calls to Europe—and a it costs literally pennies a minute. They list of your hotels’ phone numbers). can also be used to make local calls, and work from any type of phone, US Calling Cards: These cards, such including your hotel room phone. To as the ones offered by AT&T, Verizon, use the card, dial a toll-free access or Sprint, are the worst option. You’ll number, then enter your scratch-to- save a lot of money by using an inter- reveal PIN code. If you’re calling from a national phone card you’ve purchased hotel, be sure to dial the “freephone” in Italy. number (starts with “80”) provided on Metered Phones: In Italy, some call your card rather than the “local access” shops have phones with meters. You number (which would incur a charge). can talk all you want, then pay the bill You can buy the cards at small news- when you leave—but be sure you know stand kiosks, tobacco shops, Internet the rates before you have a lengthy cafés, hostels, and hole-in-the-wall conversation. Note that charges can be long-distance phone shops. Because “per unit” rather than per minute; fi there are so many brand names, simply out the length of a unit. ask for an international phone card Mobile Phones (carta telefonica prepagata internazio- Many travelers enjoy the convenience nale, KAR-tah teh-leh-FOHN-ee-kah of traveling with a mobile phone. pray-pah-GAH-tah in-ter-naht-zee-oh- NAH-lay). Tell the vendor where you’ll Using Your Mobile Phone: Your US be calling the most (“per Stati Uniti”— mobile phone works in Europe if it’s to America), and he’ll select the brand GSM-enabled, tri-band or quad-band, with the best deal. and on a calling plan that includes

46 Sicily international calls. Phones from AT&T (checking email, browsing the Internet, and T-Mobile, which use the same GSM streaming videos, and so on). The best technology that Europe does, are more solution: Disable data roaming entirely, likely to work overseas than Verizon or and only use your device to go online Sprint phones (if you’re not sure, ask when you fi free Wi-Fi. You can ask your service provider). Most US provid- your mobile-phone service provider ers charge $1.29-1.99 per minute while to cut off your account’s data roaming roaming internationally to make or capability, or you can manually turn receive calls, and 20-50 cents to send it off on your phone (look under the or receive text messages. “Network” menu). If you want Internet access without being limited to Wi-Fi, You’ll pay cheaper rates if your phone you’ll need to keep data roaming on— is electronically “unlocked” (ask your but you can take steps to reduce your provider about this); then in Europe, charges. Consider paying extra for a you can simply buy a tiny SIM card, limited international data roaming plan which gives you a European phone through your carrier, then use data number. SIM cards are sold at mobile- roaming selectively (if a particular task phone stores and some newsstand gobbles bandwidth, wait until you’re kiosks for $5-15, and generally include on Wi-Fi). In general, ask your provider several minutes’ worth of prepaid in advance how to avoid unwittingly domestic calling time. When you buy roaming your way to a huge bill. If your a SIM card, you may need to show ID, smartphone is on Wi-Fi, you can use such as your passport. Insert the SIM certain apps to make cheap or free card in your phone (usually in a slot on voice calls (see “Calling over the Inter- the side or behind the battery), and it’ll net,” on the next page). work like a European mobile phone. When buying a SIM card, always ask Buying a European Mobile Phone: about fees for domestic and interna- Mobile phone shops all over Europe tional calls, roaming charges, and how sell basic phones. The mobile phone to check your credit balance and buy desk in a big department store is more time. When you’re in the SIM another good place to check. Phones card’s home country, domestic calls that are “locked” to work with a single are reasonable, and incoming calls are provider start around $40; “unlocked” free. You’ll pay more if you’re roaming phones (which allow you to switch in another country. out SIM cards to use your choice of provider) start around $60. You’ll also Many smartphones, such as the need to buy a SIM card and prepaid iPhone, Android, and BlackBerry, credit for making calls. (Italian friends work in Europe (note that you can use tell us that TIM is a reliable Italian the AT&T iPhone—but not the Verizon mobile phone company.) model—in Europe). For voice calls and text messaging, smartphones work Renting a European Mobile Phone: the same as other US mobile phones Car-rental companies and mobile (explained earlier). But beware of phone companies offer the option to sky-high fees for data downloading rent a mobile phone with a European

Sicily 47 number. Some hotels even rent or loan Any Italian phone number that starts phones. While this seems convenient, with “8” but isn’t followed by a “0” is a hidden fees (such as high per-minute toll call, generally costing €0.10-0.50 charges or expensive shipping costs) per minute. can really add up—which usually Emergency Needs makes it a bad value. One exception is English-Speaking Police Help: 113 Verizon’s Global Travel Program, avail- Ambulance: 118 able only to Verizon customers. Road Service: 116 Calling over the Internet Some things that seem too good to be true...actually are true. If you’re traveling with a wireless device (such as a laptop or smartphone), you can use VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) to make free calls over the Internet to another wireless device (or you can pay a few cents to call from your computer to a telephone). If both devices have cameras, you can even see each other while you chat. The major providers are Skype (www.skype.com, also available as a smartphone app), Google Talk (www.google.com/talk), and FaceTime (this app comes standard on newer Apple devices). If you have a smart- phone, you can get online at a hotspot and use these apps to make calls without ringing up expensive roaming charges (though call quality can be spotty on slow connections).

Useful Phone Numbers Italy’s toll-free numbers start with “80.” These numbers—called free- phone or numero verde (green num- ber)—can be dialed free from any phone without using a phone card. Note that you can’t call Italy’s toll-free numbers from America, nor can you count on reaching America’s toll-free numbers from Italy.

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Secret Italy Best of Sicily Sightseeing Guide Secret Tours, Triq Tal Hiereb, MSD 1670 Malta Phone: (0039) 0942-47518 E-mail [email protected] Web: www.secretitalia.com