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2014 Sicily Guide

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2014 Sicily Guide 2014 SICILY GUIDE 2 Dear Traveler, elcome to our Sicily guide! The purpose of this book- let is to W provide you with some background information to help you get the most out of your tour. You’ll find a basic history as well as an intro- duction and orientation to the destinations we’ll see along the way. We’ve listed the location of Internet cafes and restaurants and given you ideas to help you get the most out of your free time sightseeing. Your tour guide will of course be teaching you along the way, reinforcing some of the things in this booklet and giving you additional information. Your input will help shape this and make it even more useful for future tour members. You can help improve it by letting us know when you find a great little restaurant, handy Internet café or a fascinating museum you visited during your free time. Read through this before your tour and be sure to bring it with you on the tour as well. Our hope is that you’ll fi it useful. We have a real passion for Sicily and look forward to sharing it with you. Contents Introduction .......................................... 3 Caltagirone .......................................... 35 General Geography ............................... 3 Villa del Casale ................................... 37 General History ...................................... 4 Agrigento ............................................. 38 Sicilian Culture .................................. 10 Segesta ............................................ 39 Mafia ................................................... 13 Appendix ............................................ 40 Palermo ................................................ 14 Sicilian Architectural Monreale .............................................. 21 Vocabulary ....................................... 41 Cefalù .................................................... 21 Packing Tips ................................ 43 Taormina .............................................. 24 Telephones ..................................... 44 Mt. Etna ................................................. 27 Tour at a Glance ............................. 48 Siracusa ............................................28 Sicily 3 Introduction fi many reminders that shape the multicultural society. The poverty here, Many travelers who claim to “know” particularly in the late 1800s and early Italy have never set foot south of 1900s, caused a large wave of emigra- Rome. But plenty of Italophiles say that tion, much of it to the USA. Many locals the fun starts once you leave Rome’s have an uncle Tony in New York or a southern city limits. cousin Julia in San Francisco. Italians refer to Sicily and the rest The land of the Mezzogiorno is a land Mez- of Italy south of Rome as the of surprises and we are excited to dis- zogiorno , which means midday and cover them with you. refers to the hot sun that blazes down much of the year. To many Italians Sic- ily is poor, backward and plagued by General Geography organized crime. Yet travelers fi the • Sicily is shaped like a triangle and region to be warmer, less expensive, has an area of 9,200 square miles, and less touristed. Less English is spo- slightly larger than Vermont, about ken here and the people are friendlier, 10% of the landmass of Italy and the so practice your Italiano and your hand largest island in the Mediterranean. gestures! • Population 5.2 million, out of Italy’s The north with its Grand Canal, David total population of about 60 million. and St. Peter’s is more familiar, yet in Sicily you’ll fi sites the equal of any- • Surrounded by three seas: Mediter- thing you may have seen in the north ranean on the southwest coast, of Italy. Stare face to face with some Ionian on the east coast, and Tyrrhe- of the world’s best Byzantine mosaics nian on the north coast. The Sicilian in the cathedral of Monreale—a literal coastline is about 650 miles and Bible in gold. Sit in Taormina’s Greek much of that is beach. theater looking out at still-smoldering • Home to Europe’s largest active Mt. Etna and you can’t help but feel volcano—smoldering, sputtering, goosebumps. Marvel at the rich arche- 10,900-foot Mt. Etna. Actual height ological ruins of Siracusa dating to the varies depending on effects of the 5th century BC. Explore the brilliant most recent eruption! Roman fl mosaics in the Villa del Casale. The Greek infl e is particu- • Located 2 miles from the “toe” of larly strong in the south of Italy—we’ll Italy’s boot across the Strait of Mes- see better preserved temples here sina and 100 miles from Tunisia in than in Greece itself! Sicily has some North Africa. of Italy’s best beaches and on this tour • 4/5 of the island is mountainous, we made sure that you’ll have time to at one time an extension of the enjoy them. The cuisine of Sicily varies Apennine mountain range that runs from one province to the next as do the down the spine of the Italian boot wines. As the region was historically from when Sicily was actually still overrun by many foreign powers, you’ll attached to the mainland. 4 Sicily Sicily is an island of “bastardi puri.” ping practices). The Greeks enjoyed a The world’s fi st multicultural society, comparatively advanced civilization Sicily’s history and culture are a patch- and introduced new industries and work of all of the civilizations who have agriculture to the island. It was the lush at one time or another controlled the forests and abundant supply of lumber land and its people. with which to make ships to replenish the navy that initially drew the Greeks From the fi st wave of invaders (the to Sicily, having already deforested Siculi and Carthaginians) to the sub- their own country. In addition, sheep sequent Greeks, Romans, barbarian rearing, cheese and wine making, olive Vandals and Ostrogoths, Byzantines, oil production and fi g built a rich Arabs, Normans, Swabians (Germans), island economy. Some of the more Angevins, Spanish and fi ally Romans famous ancient Greeks to call Sicily again under the guise of the Italian home include Archimedes of “Eureka!” government, Sicily has been changing fame, philosopher Empedocles, play- hands for 33 centuries. This revolv- wright Aeschylus, and mythological fi - ing door of civilizations has produced ures like the Cyclops, Persephone and a rich and culturally diverse treasure Hephaestus. Early Sicilian architecture trove of artistic traditions, cuisine, copied that of Greece, and throughout architecture, and historic monuments our travels we’ll see several examples to explore. And Sicilians in turn have of Greek architecture at Taormina, Sir- spread their culture throughout the acusa, Agrigento and Segesta. world. Between 1880 and 1910 over 1.5 million left Sicily for the US. Space Invaders While the Greeks rested on their lau- General History rels, the Romans were roamin’, incor- porating more and more territory and Early Settlers conquered people into their Republic, The earliest known inhabitants of the including Sicily after they won the island were the Siculi, based in the Punic Wars against Carthage (starring east, the Sicani in the west, and the Hannibal and his elephants). Sicily Elymni with settlements in northwest- became the Republic’s fi st province, ern Sicily. The Siculi were able to domi- and the Romans referred to Sicily as nate and the island came to be named “the Republic’s granary”, as her fertile after them. soil and temperate climate fed the In the 8th century BC the Greeks set- future Empire. tled in Sicily and Southern Italy, calling Sicily also became renowned as a play- the new colony Magna Graecia. Wher- ground for the rich and was a favorite ever the Greeks settled they hellenized vacation spot for Emperor Caligula. the locals, leaving their indelible mark The incredible, fanciful mosaics that in the way of artistic traditions (think we’ll see at the Imperial Villa at Casale, ceramics and metallurgy), architectural a palatial hunting lodge of 40 rooms, styles (temples and theaters), and reli- offer a glimpse at the decadence of the gious beliefs (mythology and worship- wealthy Romans. Sicily 5 After the fall of the Roman Empire in even today. All of these crops, in par- the 5th century AD, Vandals, Goths and ticular the citrus groves, surrounding Byzantines occupied Sicily in (relatively) the port town the Arabs called Ziz quick succession. The Byzantines would (Palermo), gave the area its nickname later leave their mark in the form of Conca d’Oro (Golden Shell). The Arabs shimmering gold church mosaics in in Sicily are best remembered for the churches constructed for the Norman splendor of their court, seen today in kings. After the Byzantines came the their palaces and the church mosaics Arabs, making their full-fledged inva- infused with superior craftsmanship sion of the island in the 9th century, and Islamic decoration, and also for bringing with them a knack for taking their sophisticated and cosmopoli- the best elements of previous societies tan society. During their reign Sicily and fine tuning them to their advantage was the most racially diverse land in (much like the Romans did). Europe, home to Africans, Jews, Arabs (from Spain, Egypt and Syria), Berbers, Arabs honed Roman engineering skills Persians, Greeks, Lombards, and Slavs. and introduced Persian irrigating sys- tems which enabled Sicily to become Stormin’ Normans the most productive agricultural center By the 11th century, the Normans in the Mediterranean. Arabs brought (think Vikings or Norsemen who had in new crops such as lemons, oranges, settled in France, ancestors of Wil- fi s, mulberries and silk worms (for liam the Conqueror) had stealthily silk production), cotton, sugar cane, taken over the island, more by means papyrus, palms, melons, and pistachio of political manipulation than hostile trees that infl e Sicilian cuisine invasion. The Popes in Rome needed 6 Sicily a guard-dog and were willing to offer notch in a king’s belt. Most rulers hap- control of Sicily to bandit brothers pily grabbed the title but didn’t actu- Robert, called Guiscard (the Cunning), ally live in Sicily, governing the island and Roger Hauteville in exchange for instead through representatives called a promise from them not to attack the viceroys.
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