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Of course we got raised eyebrows as we boarded a plane to Iraq, yet Kurdistan proved to be a welcoming, friendly place where our ISISyarmulkes elicited comments such as “We love Jews.” We wanted to know what remained of an ancient Jewish community that fled to safer shores in the last century: We discovered a lot of ignorance, but an equal amount of Jewish pride

TEXT BY Ari Greenspan and Ari Z. Zivotofsky PHOTOS Ari Greenspan, Ari Z. Zivotofsky, Rabbi Eliyahu Birnbaum 36 MISHPACHA

ari n ari_596.indd 35 08/02/2016 14:28:57 ari n ari_596.indd 36 08/02/2016 14:29:38 Fifty Miles from ISIS F1.

Yet several months ago when we heard that the government of Kurdistan — a semiautonomous region in northern Iraq — had appointed a Jewish affairs representative, we just had to go and see for ourselves. We decided to be his guests. For those of us living in the West, Iraq conjures images of perpetual war and incessant terror attacks. There was Saddam Hussein, the Iraq-Iran war, the US-led invasion of Iraq, as well as the subsequent power vacuum and the lightning-fast emergence of the deadly ISIS. Yet our back-channel investigations and research with various security organizations told us that safety in Kurdistan — even wearing our kippot publicly — was not a concern despite it being in Iraq. Well, even if walking the Kurdish streets was safe, we still had to decide to either fly via Jordan and over ISIS-controlled areas or via Turkey. Despite the decades-long tensions between Turkey and Kurdistan — last year alone Turkey killed more than 3,000 Kurds and the Kurdistan Workers Party or PKK is viewed as a terrorist organization engaged in an ongoing militant struggle We’ve for an independent Kurdistan on Turkish soil — Turkish Air still F2. flies there frequently, and so we set off from Tel Aviv to Istanbul. searched for Because our time in the country was quite limited, we quickly Jews and realized in planning our itinerary that we’d need a local expert to facilitate our meeting with relevant people and to get from place examined to place efficiently during a very short visit. We discovered that a 1. It would have been con- local leading authority on Kurdish Jewry is a woman named Judit sidered an affront had we not made the 3-hour detour remnants of Neurink, a Dutch journalist and writer who has lived in Iraqi to Barzan. (L to R) Ari G., communities Kurdistan for the past eight years, became intrigued with Kurdish Ari Z., Sheikh Barzani, our Jewish history, and even wrote a novel about the Jewish heritage companion Rabbi Eli Birn- all over the of Kurdistan. It turns out that her services were indispensable in baum, our armed escort “Y,” globe — but to helping us hit the ground running for the short time we were in our guide Sherzad, and the this country of conflicts. sheikh’s bodyguard travel to Iraq? Although there are approximately 30 million Kurds in the Middle East, forming minority populations in Turkey, Iran, Iraq, 2. Sheikh Barzani shows us With some of 3. and Syria, there has never been a modern independent Kurdish the “Jewish bath,” which we F state. While the vast majority of Kurds are Muslim, there are also first thought was an ancient its territory mikveh. No luck — just a Christians and Jews along with several other minorities, such as pre-plumbing spring 4. overrun by Zoroastrians, Yazidis, Bahais, and other small groups. Kurdistan F ISIS and in the is a tough neighborhood, and, as the locals told us, “at least you 3. At the grave of Mullah have the Mediterranean on one of your borders.” What they Mustafa Barzani, visited by throes of civil meant was that both Israel and Iraqi Kurdistan are surrounded 100,000 people a year, we bloodbaths, by hostile countries, but at least the sea is not an aggressive heard how this leader invit- neighbor, while Iraqi Kurdistan is bordered by the anti-Kurdish ed the Jews to Barzan to live that was one Turkey, Syria, Iraq, ISIS, and Iran. under his protection 4. We might have been just place we never Battle-Scarred Escorts We entered Iraq via Istanbul kilometers away from imagined we’d through the Kurdistan provincial capital of Erbil, a modern, even ISIS-controlled land, but our affluent-looking city of over a million people. Here you could yarmulkes didn’t seem to get to, at least easily forget that ISIS is only tens of kilometers away, and that bother anyone in the local in this decade. Baghdad and other Iraqi cities faced with perpetual instability shuk

38 MISHPACHA

ari n ari_596.indd 37 08/02/2016 14:29:52 ari n ari_596.indd 38 08/02/2016 14:31:25 Fifty Miles from ISIS These Benjews have one thing in common — Jewish blood — and it might

5. have come from a mother, father, or are not too far south. But despite the seeming tranquility, there F grandparent; but many of them also were regular reminders that we were in a multinational war zone. believe in Islam and go to the mosque We were met at the airport by Y, who would be our armed escort most of the time we were in Kurdistan. As he led us to his 6. armored Mercedes 4x4, we noticed the revolver in his traditional F waistband sash and an automatic weapon on the floor of the vehicle. At the end of our trip, before bidding us farewell, he the caretaker was scribbled on the gate. Our translator called her, and casually mentioned that half his intestines were gone, showing after waiting 20 minutes in the rain, she finally appeared and let us us where the bullet had entered and exited his abdomen while in. She explained that her family has been taking care of this site for fighting in Iraq under Saddam. seven generations and admitted that it’s not actually Ezra’s grave, but We were joined by our governmental host (thanks to Judit’s rather “where he slept.” connections), Sherzad Omer Mamsani, who extended his She then proceeded to tell us a legend about Ezra falling asleep on left hand in greeting because the lower part of his right arm is this site for 100 years. We are not familiar with any such midrash, but artificial. He later told us that years earlier a bomb had been who knows if there really was a connection between Ezra and this planted at his door by Islamist militants due to his involvement particular site? After all, he did live in this part of the world. And so, in improving Israel-Kurdish relations, and when he opened in deference to custom, we took our shoes off as requested and went the door, his arm was blown off. Standing in the chilly air, he down to the “grave” — located in a mausoleum built in the 1600s by a explained to us that he gets cold easily, owing to the thousand local Muslim — to the tapping boom-boom of the caretaker’s pulsating pieces of shrapnel still lodged in his body. Driving around Erbil, traditional drum. the street signs that pointed toward Baghdad and Mosul (the F7. ISIS capital) were an ever-present reminder of where we were, antiterrorismantiterrorism in in the the country, country, as as we we entered entered the the tent tent and and sat sat with with Boon and Bust Around five years ago the autonomous region of so we were really quite grateful for this official entourage. them.them. Spanning Spanning the the length length of of the the tent tent was was a a long long table table laden laden with with Kurdistan saw an economic boon that attracted foreign investments As we drove around town, Erbil seemed safe, stable, and meat,meat, rice,rice, andand pitas,pitas, refreshmentsrefreshments forfor thethe hundredshundreds ofof peoplepeople as well as encouraged the return of Kurdish expatriates. Erbil became pleasant, but we couldn’t ignore the undercurrent of war and millingmilling around.around. WeWe howeverhowever satsat inin earnestearnest discussiondiscussion withwith thethe the fastest-growing city in Iraq with the country’s tallest building and suffering just over the border — this region of six million people mayor,mayor, considered considered to to be be the the one one of of the the most most powerful powerful men men in in a new airport. And although the bubble burst soon after, remnants of is currently hosting about two million foreign and internally thethe country —country — aboutabout bothboth hishis personalpersonal lossloss andand aboutabout regionalregional those years can still be seen in some of the huge construction starts displaced refugees. One evening while shopping for souvenirs, politics.politics. WeWe werewere pleasantlypleasantly surprisedsurprised byby hishis friendlyfriendly demeanordemeanor that were never finished, as well as in the many new cars and other we struck up a conversation with a man who spoke excellent andand thethe sinceresincere respectrespect andand friendshipfriendship hehe expressedexpressed forfor Israel.Israel. signs of wealth on the streets. English and explained to us how he had fled the fighting in ThisThis was was a a theme theme that that repeated repeated itself itself many many times times throughout throughout While the region is now going through tough economic times and Damascus at the very beginning and had already established ourour visit. visit. is in the midst of a standoff with the central Baghdad government himself in Erbil. The store’s cashier, on the other hand, had over oil revenue owed to them, Kurdistan as part of Iraq still attracts arrived only four months ago from a Syrian town that had been TheThe 100-Year 100-Year Nap Nap TodayToday Erbil Erbil is is a a modern modern city, city, but but European do-gooders. One NGO we heard about is hoping to bring essentially destroyed by ISIS. Although the locals take pride in itit was was once once the the center center of of the the ancient ancient Assyrian Assyrian kingdom kingdom of of peace through soccer. This particular NGO spent significant funds to caring for these refugees, two million of them is enough to rock Adiabene,Adiabene, bestbest knownknown toto thethe JewsJews becausebecause atat oneone pointpoint itsits royalroyal build new soccer fields just outside of many small towns we passed the calm even of their Kurdish hosts. familyfamily convertedconverted toto Judaism.Judaism. QueenQueen Helena,Helena, knownknown asas HeleniHeleni (the government allowed them land outside the cities). But it was Israeli tourists are rare, and even though we entered on our US HamalkahHamalkah inin JewishJewish sources,sources, convertedconverted inin thethe 1st1st centurycentury CE,CE, obvious that these fields were rarely used. Still, such is the way of passports, we were treated as honored Israeli guests. We were andand together together with with her her sons sons moved moved to to Jerusalem, Jerusalem, built built palaces palaces many European NGO projects in Iraq as well as those directed to the astonished when two security guards in the airport who noticed atat thethe northernnorthern partpart ofof thethe CityCity ofof David,David, andand mademade significantsignificant Palestinians — the doers feel good but usually little is accomplished our kippot spontaneously gave us a thumbs-up and said “we love contributionscontributions toto thethe BeisBeis HamikdashHamikdash beforebefore itit waswas overrunoverrun byby on the ground. Israelis.” thethe Romans. Romans. 5.5. OurOur guideguide admittedadmitted thatthat thisthis wasn’twasn’t reallyreally EzraEzra HaHa-- The emerging ethnic pride among the Kurds, together with the Apparently the Ministry of Religion saw us as an important OwingOwing to to the the 2,500-year-old 2,500-year-old Jewish Jewish connection connection in in Iraq, Iraq, we we sofer’ssofer’s grave,grave, butbut itit waswas wherewhere thethe localslocals claimclaim hehe sleptslept constant neighboring threat of ISIS and radical Islam, have created “delegation,” and so we were immediately whisked to the werewere notnot surprisedsurprised whenwhen aa locallocal toldtold usus thatthat wewe couldcould findfind thethe forfor aa centurycentury another phenomenon — the reemergence of people with Jewish mourning tent of Erbil’s mayor to pay our respects. His tombtomb of of Ezra Ezra Hasofer Hasofer in in Erbil. Erbil. Now, Now, we we know know that that some some say say blood who for years kept their lineage secret. 6.6. AtAt thethe mourner’smourner’s tenttent forfor Erbil’sErbil’s mayor.mayor. WeWe mustmust havehave Ezra’sEzra’s tombtomb isis inin Basra,Basra, Iraq,Iraq, andand therethere isis alsoalso aa traditiontradition thatthat hehe mother had passed away three days earlier from cancer after beenbeen consideredconsidered anan importantimportant delegation,delegation, becausebecause wewe After the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, it became advanced treatment in Amman, Jordan. He comes from a large, waswas buriedburied inin TadifTadif inin northernnorthern Syria.Syria. ButBut Erbil?Erbil? TheThe leastleast wewe werewere whiskedwhisked therethere uponupon arrivalarrival toto paypay ourour respectsrespects open season in Iraq for anti-Jewish attacks, and most of the local Jews powerful family and the tent was massive, as was the private couldcould do do was was check check it it out. out. fled to Israel or other countries. Those who stayed married Muslims militia guarding the area. Yet we were waved through and were SoSo wewe headedheaded outout toto thethe site,site, aa smallsmall MuslimMuslim cemetery,cemetery, onlyonly 7.7. OneOne manman withwith aa huntinghunting riflerifle waswas soso excitedexcited toto seesee and either converted to Islam or went underground. And because greeted by the mayor and his brother, a general and head of toto findfind thethe entranceentrance locked.locked. Conveniently,Conveniently, thethe phonephone numbernumber ofof JewsJews thatthat hehe approachedapproached usus forfor aa chatchat withwith “old“old friends”friends” radical Islam preached that Jews were the evil enemy, hardly anyone

4040 MISHPACHAMISHPACHA 11 Adar Adar I I 5776 5776 | | February February 10, 10, 2016 2016 MISHPACHAMISHPACHA 41 41

ari n ari_596.indd 39 08/02/2016 14:31:41 ari n ari_596.indd 40 08/02/2016 14:32:01 FiftyFifty MilesMiles fromfrom ISISISIS Headlines radio show tackling fascinating modern controversies from in Kurdistan dared mention their own Jewish bloodline. JewishJewish ancestry.ancestry. TheThe fatherfather andand sonson wewe spokespoke toto insistedinsisted thatthat they’rethey’re Jewish,Jewish, butbut sawsaw nono Until ISIS came on the scene. Sounds ironic, but because of contradictioncontradiction inin beingbeing MuslimMuslim atat thethe samesame time.time. “When“When we’llwe’ll havehave independence,independence, b’ezrat b’ezrat a halachic perspective the caliphate’s perpetration of the worst atrocities, many Kurds HashemHashem,, II willwill gogo bothboth toto aa shulshul andand aa mosque,”mosque,” saidsaid thethe son.son. “I“I wouldn’twouldn’t wantwant toto missmiss with turned their backs on radical Islam while at the same time, the anythinganything holy.” holy.” Dovid Lichtenstein Kurdish authorities decided to ensure that religious minorities would feel safe and welcome in the region. This last May, the InIn the the Open Open Ever-enthusiasticEver-enthusiastic Sherzad Sherzad arranged arranged an an evening evening get-together get-together with with Kurdistan parliament gave all these minorities — including the severalseveral BenjewBenjew families.families. TheThe host,host, aa lawyer,lawyer, andand hishis daughters —daughters — anan architect,architect, aa medicalmedical Jews — a representative in the Ministry of Religion. The broken stone student,student, andand aa civilcivil engineeringengineering student —student — mightmight bebe intriguedintrigued byby theirtheir history,history, butbut itit hashas This Week wall across from the littlelittle bearing bearing on on their their life. life. One One daughter daughter is is engaged engaged to to a a Finnish Finnish Muslim Muslim ex-pat ex-pat Kurd, Kurd, and and One Big Family One of our objectives was to learn about sheikh’s home was afterafter their their wedding wedding they they will will be be moving moving to to Finland. Finland. Jewish Kurdistan and to see if we could find any remnants — part of the shul OurOur hosthost alsoalso invitedinvited hishis cousin,cousin, who’swho’s marriedmarried toto aa MuslimMuslim woman.woman. ThisThis MuslimMuslim wifewife School either alive or in stone — of these communities. We were quite razed by Saddam relatedrelated howhow herher ownown mothermother actuallyactually knewknew somesome HebrewHebrew becausebecause sheshe waswas thethe villagevillage surprised that in all the towns and villages we visited, we didn’t when he nearly ShabbosShabbos goy. goy. Acceptance find one Jewish cemetery — we assume they were destroyed obliterated the town ButBut we we hit hit a a home home run run in in our our search search for for Jews Jews among among the the Benjews Benjews when when the the door door during the years of Saddam. Yet Sherzad, the recently appointed openedopened andand inin walkedwalked Sarah,Sarah, thethe elderelder matriarchmatriarch ofof anotheranother family,family, dresseddressed inin typicaltypical Jewish affairs representative, claimed that there were hundreds locallocal MuslimMuslim garbgarb andand accompaniedaccompanied byby herher doctordoctor son,son, herher daughterdaughter andand MuslimMuslim son-son- Policies of families with Jewish roots still living secretly in Kurdistan. in-law,in-law, andand theirtheir children.children. SheShe toldtold usus thatthat herher mothermother andand herher maternalmaternal grandmothergrandmother They’re called “Benjews,” but don’t let your imagination werewere proudproud Jews,Jews, andand thatthat herher mother,mother, onon herher deathbed,deathbed, requestedrequested fromfrom herher toto reciterecite conjure up images of secret groups of Anusim practicing Judaism KaddishKaddish D’Rabbanan.D’Rabbanan. SheShe toldtold usus thatthat sheshe nevernever diddid becausebecause theythey nevernever hadhad tenten JewishJewish in secret. These Benjews have one thing in common — Jewish menmen together. together. blood — and it might have come from a mother, father, or ButBut sheshe doesdoes preservepreserve somesome ofof herher mother’smother’s traditions.traditions. SheShe toldtold usus thatthat herher mothermother grandparent; but many of them also believe in Islam and go to hadhad alwaysalways taughttaught herher thatthat 2020 minutesminutes beforebefore sunsetsunset onon FridayFriday sheshe shouldshould lightlight candles.candles. the mosque. They’ve all either married Muslims, converted, or AndAnd thenthen toto ourour utterutter amazement,amazement, sheshe wavedwaved herher handshands aroundaround threethree times,times, coveredcovered herher Rabbi Dovid Yosef Rabbi Nachum hid their Judaism out of fear of reprisals from the Arab Iraqis. Yet eyes,eyes, and and recited recited the the brachah. brachah. She She also also knew knew “ “alal netilat netilat yadayim yadayim”” and and still still doesn’t doesn’t eat eat pita pita Rav, Har Nof Member, Eisenstein they are proud of their roots and today they no longer feel a need WhileWhile still still in in Israel Israel preparing preparing for for our our trip, trip, we we met met one one of of the the mademade withwith yeastyeast onon Pesach.Pesach. SheShe alsoalso describeddescribed howhow sheshe takestakes challahchallah withwith thethe brachahbrachah,, Moetzet Chachmei hatorah Rav in Maalot Dafna to hide their background. familiesfamilies whowho camecame withwith thisthis smallsmall wavewave ofof olimolim.. TheThe headhead ofof thethe andand howhow herher husbandhusband isn’tisn’t botheredbothered byby thethe coldcold foodfood hehe getsgets onon Shabbat.Shabbat. AndAnd whenwhen wewe Maybe that has to do with the Jews’ continuous and significant household,household, aa youngyoung fatherfather inin hishis 30s,30s, hadhad beenbeen aa childchild whenwhen thethe askedasked ifif sheshe knewknew thethe Shema,Shema, sheshe recitedrecited itit flawlessly,flawlessly, declaringdeclaring thatthat sheshe sayssays itit threethree Rabbi Meir Hertz presence in the region, ever since Nevuchadnetzar exiled the Jews familyfamily made made aliyah, aliyah, and and today today is is integrated integrated in in Israeli Israeli society. society. timestimes aa day.day. HerHer sonson alsoalso recitedrecited thethe ShemaShema forfor us,us, andand herher daughterdaughter askedasked usus toto givegive Founder & dean at Tashbar of Lakewood to Bavel in the sixth century BCE. The ancient Jewish community ButBut hishis parents,parents, whowho livelive withwith them,them, nevernever acclimated.acclimated. TheyThey stillstill HebrewHebrew names names to to her her children. children. of Kurdistan even has a tradition that they are from the dispersed don’tdon’t speakspeak Hebrew,Hebrew, andand areare inin factfact illiterate.illiterate. WhenWhen wewe visitedvisited thethe NowNow that that it’s it’s safe safe to to acknowledge acknowledge a a Jewish Jewish connection connection in in Kurdistan, Kurdistan, several several high- high- Rabbi Binyomin Ginsberg Ten Tribes. As opposed to other communities in the wider Iraqi family,family, thethe parentsparents asas wellwell asas thethe father’sfather’s brotherbrother werewere watchingwatching rankingranking government government officials officials have have admittedadmitted to to beingbeing Benjews,Benjews, andand accordingaccording to to Noted mechanech, author and lecturer region, the Kurdish Jews lived in isolated small villages and were KurdishKurdish TV,TV, andand thethe sonson hadhad toto translatetranslate forfor usus asas wewe triedtried toto gleanglean governmentgovernment statistics statistics there’s there’s been been a a reduction reduction of of 40 40 percent percent in in mosque mosque attendance attendance since since not learned in the Torah. Spanish-Jewish poet Yehudah Alharizi information.information. ISISISIS appeared. appeared. This This “we’re “we’re all all against against them” them” environment environment has has made made it it easier easier for for the the visited Kurdistan in the year 1230 and described synagogues “full WhileWhile this this man’s man’s parents parents have have stuck stuck it it out out so so far, far, his his wife’s wife’s BenjewsBenjews toto finallyfinally expressexpress theirtheir heritage.heritage. Still,Still, nono oneone isis shoutingshouting theirtheir JewishJewish roots,roots, butbut of boors and cantors who made mistakes.” We too met people in parentsparents didn’t. didn’t. They They simply simply couldn’t couldn’t make make it it in in Israel Israel and and returned returned theythey are are no no longer longer hiding hiding their their heritage heritage either. either. motzai shabbos the area who were illiterate, although it’s harder to imagine in the toto Kurdistan Kurdistan with with the the rest rest of of her her siblings. siblings. And And that’s that’s how how we we Sherzad,Sherzad, for for his his part, part, has has a a multipronged multipronged program. program. He He is is responsible responsible for for relations relations 11:00 pm -12:00 / wmca 570 am / nachumsegal.com year 2016. woundwound up up in in a a hotel hotel restaurant restaurant in in Dohuk, Dohuk, about about 50 50 kilometers kilometers withwith thethe hundredshundreds ofof thousandsthousands ofof KurdsKurds livingliving inin IsraelIsrael andand hashas visitedvisited IsraelIsrael severalseveral While relations between the Jews and their non-Jewish fromfrom the the Turkish Turkish border, border, carrying carrying on on a a conversation conversation in in Hebrew Hebrew times.times. HeHe eveneven talkstalks aboutabout buildingbuilding aa JewishJewish museummuseum andand aa synagogue,synagogue, butbut alsoalso realizesrealizes monday mornings neighbors had its ups and downs over the centuries, they took withwith thisthis man’sman’s father-father- in-lawin-law andand brother-in-law.brother-in-law. TheyThey explainedexplained howhow limitedlimited inin knowledgeknowledge thethe locallocal peoplepeople are.are. Still,Still, SherzadSherzad hashas takentaken whatwhat couldcould havehave 11:00 am -12:00 / nachumsegal.com a precipitous turn for the worse in the 1940s when Arab Iraqi howhow the the older older generation generation had had been been sustenance sustenance farmers farmers living living beenbeen aa low-levellow-level governmentgovernment postingposting andand hashas turnedturned itit intointo anan internationalinternational position.position. violence climaxed in a farhud, or pogrom, in Baghdad in 1941. Close inin tinytiny villages,villages, oftenoften illiterate.illiterate. Thus,Thus, thethe transitiontransition toto IsraelIsrael waswas HisHis devotion devotion and and energy energy are are amazing amazing in in the the face face of of a a community community that that remembers remembers next next to to Tuesday evenings to 200 Jews were killed and over 900 houses destroyed. After that, extremelyextremely difficult difficult forfor them.them. nothingnothing about about being being Jewish. Jewish. 7:00 pm - 8:00 / wsnr 620 am the vast majority of Jews left Iraq, most moving to Israel. But for ExceptExcept for for the the daughter daughter he he left left in in Israel, Israel, the the man man returned returned the few who stayed behind, their connection to Judaism dissipated. toto Kurdistan Kurdistan with with the the rest rest of of his his children, children, where where they they married married GraveGrave Decision Decision WhileWhile we we were were traveling, traveling, Sherzad Sherzad was was contacted contacted by by another another In the 1990s during the Iraqi-Kurdish civil war, life became even Muslims.Muslims. TheThe sonson wewe talkedtalked toto speaksspeaks fluentfluent HebrewHebrew andand wewe werewere prominentprominent Benjew, Benjew, who who is is well-connected well-connected through through the the old old boys boys club club of of the the senior senior leaders leaders Listen Anytime! more difficult in northern Iraq, and some of these intermarried ableable to to have have a a fascinating fascinating conversation conversation about about this this phenomenon phenomenon ofof Peshmerga,Peshmerga, Kurdistan’sKurdistan’s militarymilitary force.force. HeHe explainedexplained thatthat “all“all VIPs”VIPs” (i.e.,(i.e., MishpachaMishpacha hotline: 732.806.8700 Jews or their descendants availed themselves of the Law of Return ofof “Benjew” “Benjew” — — mixed-married mixed-married Jews Jews or or their their descendants descendants who who writers)writers) visit visit the the grave grave of of Mullah Mullah Mustafa Mustafa Barzani Barzani (1903–1979), (1903–1979), father father of of current current podcast.headlinesbook.com and presidentpresident MassoudMassoud andand founderfounder ofof thethe KurdishKurdish DemocraticDemocratic Party,Party, whowho playedplayed aa majormajor and moved to Israel. todaytoday are are not not only only not not ashamed, ashamed, but but actually actually proud, proud, of of their their itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/ headlines/id1048703487 www.headlinesbook.com 4242 MISHPACHAMISHPACHA 11 Adar Adar I I 5776 5776 | | February February 10, 10, 2016 2016 MISHPACHAMISHPACHA 37 37

ari n ari_596.indd 41 08/02/2016 14:32:28 ari n ari_596.indd 42 08/02/2016 14:33:36 FiftyFifty MilesMiles fromfrom ISISISIS

role in the Kurdish struggle. He was a sheikh and a tribal leader, baggybaggy pantspants ofof locallocal tradition,tradition, turban,turban, andand aa beautifullybeautifully tiedtied widewide people’speople’s struggle struggle for for freedom freedom and and democracy. democracy. He He emphasized emphasized how how the the Jews Jews had had lived lived and his tomb is visited by over 100,000 people a year. It would be sashsash thatthat traditionallytraditionally holdsholds aa dagger.dagger. ThisThis waswas SheikhSheikh Barzani,Barzani, inin harmony harmony with with their their Kurdish Kurdish Muslim Muslim neighbors neighbors for for centuries. centuries. viewed as an affront if we didn’t make the three-hour detour to thethe locallocal rulerruler andand ourour host,host, andand firstfirst cousincousin toto thethe presidentpresident ofof HeHe relatedrelated anan incidentincident inin whichwhich somesome JewsJews werewere beingbeing harassedharassed byby MuslimsMuslims inin Barzan, his hometown where he was reinterred in 1993. Kurdistan.Kurdistan. oneone ofof thethe villagesvillages andand howhow MustafaMustafa BarzaniBarzani adjudicatedadjudicated it.it. NotNot onlyonly diddid hehe telltell thethe So we went. As the road climbed into the mountains and WeWe removed removed our our shoes shoes and and were were directed directed toward toward a a carpeted carpeted MuslimMuslim villagersvillagers notnot toto botherbother thethe Jews,Jews, butbut actuallyactually invitedinvited thethe JewsJews toto BarzanBarzan toto the snow deepened, we were waved through several military sittingsitting room room where where each each of of us us sat sat back back in in a a large large formal formal chair chair livelive underunder hishis protection.protection. HeHe talkedtalked aboutabout thethe similarsimilar problemsproblems IsraelIsrael andand KurdistanKurdistan checkpoints. Upon arrival at the visitor center, we were greeted andand gotgot readyready toto listen.listen. TheThe sheikh,sheikh, throughthrough hishis interpreter —interpreter — anan faceface andand spokespoke aboutabout howhow thethe KurdsKurds wantwant peacepeace andand harmonyharmony withwith theirtheir neighbors,neighbors, by a distinguished-looking group of men who were waiting for Iranian-bornIranian-born IraqiIraqi KurdKurd whowho spokespoke excellentexcellent EnglishEnglish andand holdsholds butbut don’t don’t see see it it happening happening soon. soon. It It was was an an impressive impressive and and moving moving talk. talk. We We asked asked some some us in the cold drizzle. We shook hands all around and one man aa degree degree in in computer computer science science — — spoke spoke to to us us like like brothers. brothers. He He questionsquestions andand endedended thethe formalformal partpart byby givinggiving thethe sheikhsheikh aa blessingblessing inin Hebrew.Hebrew. HeHe stood out in a gleaming light-brown wool overcoat, wearing the talkedtalked aboutabout thethe importanceimportance ofof MustafaMustafa BarzaniBarzani andand thethe KurdishKurdish seemedseemed quite quite moved. moved. BackBack out out in in the the wet wet snow snow as as the the drizzle drizzle continued, continued, we we proceeded proceeded in in a a convoy convoy ledled byby aa policepolice carcar forfor thethe five-minutefive-minute drivedrive toto thethe grave,grave, whichwhich sitssits justjust outsideoutside a a largerlarger MuslimMuslim cemetery.cemetery. TheThe sheikhsheikh thenthen showedshowed usus thethe genocidegenocide museum,museum, whichwhich memorializesmemorializes the the 8,000 8,000 Barzanis Barzanis whom whom Saddam Saddam Hussein Hussein killed killed in in cold cold blood — blood — many many LOOKINGLOOKING FORFOR NACHUMNACHUM ofof whomwhom werewere putput inin massmass gravesgraves oror notnot buriedburied atat all.all. TheThe museummuseum directordirector referredreferred toto it it as as “our “our Yad Yad Vashem.” Vashem.” the 1950s, he entrusted the key of the they would break into groups, climb the WeWe never never expected expected to to be be in in this this mountainous mountainous village village that that was was far far from from our our planned planned complex to a local non-Jew who lived a mountain behind the town, and simulate itinerary,itinerary, but but it it turns turns out out that that Barzan Barzan — — mountainous, mountainous, remote, remote, economically economically few houses away, and Judit was able to a battle between the forces of good and insignificant,insignificant, yetyet aa politicallypolitically importantimportant towntown inin northernnorthern Iraq —Iraq — waswas knownknown toto havehave Since we were already in this history-rich retrieve the key for us. evil at the End of Days. Just envision a hadhad sizablesizable JewishJewish andand ChristianChristian populations.populations. SheikhSheikh BarzaniBarzani showedshowed usus thatthat acrossacross region, we longed to visit the ancient The large courtyard is fronted on one two-week-long Lag B’omer in Meron. thethe streetstreet fromfrom hishis homehome waswas anan emptyempty lotlot withwith thethe remnantsremnants ofof stonestone walls —walls — thethe city of Ninveh and the alleged tomb of side by a series of cubicles, which we are Our yarmulkes attracted friends remnantsremnants ofof aa shul.shul. WhenWhen thethe towntown waswas nearlynearly obliteratedobliterated byby SaddamSaddam Hussein,Hussein, whowho the prophet Yonah. But Ninveh is near told had once been guesthouses. Next to everywhere, and Nachum’s kever was no tooktook outout hishis angeranger onon thisthis centercenter ofof KurdishKurdish pride,pride, thethe synagoguesynagogue tootoo waswas aa casualtycasualty modern-day Mosul, which ISIS took over it is the building that had been the rabbi’s exception. Outside the tomb an older ofof his his wrath. wrath. in 2014; they still control whatever is left house and on whose entryways mezuzah man with a hunting rifle approached WeWe werewere surprisedsurprised byby thethe tremendoustremendous honorhonor accordedaccorded usus byby thethe sheikh,sheikh, whowho waswas of the site that they didn’t destroy, so we marks can clearly be seen, and the third us and congenially engaged us in proudproud toto showshow usus thethe “Jewish“Jewish bath.”bath.” ForFor aa fewfew momentsmoments wewe werewere thrilledthrilled thatthat wewe thought it better to skip that leg. There side is the entrance to Nachum’s tomb/ conversation. He obviously knew we wouldwould bebe ableable toto seesee anan ancientancient mikvehmikveh,, butbut itit turnsturns outout thisthis waswas actuallyactually aa naturalnatural are various traditions for Daniel’s burial synagogue complex. Hebrew inscriptions were Jewish and wanted to talk to “old springspring used used by by the the Jews Jews for for water water and and bathing bathing in in pre-plumbing pre-plumbing days. days. place as well — one of them is a site in are still visible carved in the stone walls. friends.” Later a young couple pulled Kirkuk, about 100 kilometers south of In the center is the supposed tomb of the over, got out of their car, and asked if FriendsFriends andand Allies?Allies? BackBack inin Erbil,Erbil, anan incidentincident wewe hadhad withwith ourour newnew friendsfriends Erbil. But that was also too dangerous for prophet Nachum, who predicted the fall they could take pictures together with exemplifiesexemplifies whatwhat ourour triptrip taughttaught us.us. OurOur hostshosts tooktook usus toto oneone ofof thethe fancyfancy restaurantsrestaurants us. However, the short book of Nachum, of Ninveh and the Assyrian empire. us. They’d never heard of Mishpacha, so inin Erbil,Erbil, wherewhere wewe werewere givengiven freefree reinrein inin thethe kitchenkitchen inin orderorder toto overseeoversee thethe bakingbaking found in Trei Asar, opens with: “A In days gone by, Nachum’s kever was it couldn’t be our celebrity status; it must ofof freshfresh laffa,laffa, thethe cuttingcutting ofof aa freshfresh vegetablevegetable salad,salad, andand thethe squeezingsqueezing ofof aa freshfresh fruitfruit prophecy concerning Ninveh. The book the site of an annual pilgrimage for have been that Yiddishe chein. drink.drink. ThereThere werewere aboutabout 1515 peoplepeople inin ourour party,party, mostmost ofof whomwhom ateate aa fullfull meal,meal, butbut of the vision of Nachum the Elkoshite.” all Iraqi Jews, not just Kurdish Jews. There was something else that pulled whenwhen thethe proprietorproprietor heardheard thatthat wewe camecame fromfrom Israel,Israel, hehe insistedinsisted thatthat thethe entireentire mealmeal It is not clear what that description of Baghdadi Jews would take a 12-hour train us toward Alqōsh — the native language bebe on on the the house. house. Nachum means, but to the residents of ride followed by a bus ride in order to for some of the residents is still Aramaic. TheThe Kurds Kurds are are allies allies and and friends, friends, and and although although Israel Israel and and Kurdistan Kurdistan don’t don’t have have the small ancient town of Alqōsh, located visit the kever. This event was a highlight Many of the Kurds of northern Iraq officialofficial diplomaticdiplomatic tiesties (and(and thethe PKKPKK fightersfighters werewere initially initially trainedtrained by thePLO),by thePLO), 50 kilometers north of the ISIS capital of the year and thousands would gather, and southern Turkey — both Jews and therethere are are claims claims that that cooperation cooperation exists exists between between the the two two governments, governments, as as well well as as of Mosul, it is clear that Nachum was a starting a week before Shavuos. One vivid non-Jews — speak a dialect of Aramaic. betweenbetween businesses businesses and and the the militaries. militaries. In In a a 2014 2014 policy policy speech, speech, Prime Prime Minister Minister landsman. description from 1848 mentions over While Aramaic has many local varieties NetanyahuNetanyahu expressed expressed support support for for an an independent independent Kurdistan, Kurdistan, praising praising their their “political “political This mostly Christian town of about a thousand participants and the local (Targum Onkelos differs from the Bavli commitmentcommitment and and political political moderation.” moderation.” 15,000 people is situated on the side non-Jews giving over their houses for and both differ from the Yerushalmi), TheThe Kurds Kurds view view the the State State of of Israel Israel as as a a potential potential strategic strategic ally, ally, having having gone gone through through of a hill and close to the top, near the the Jewish visitors. The out-of-towners there are still people who speak a version similarsimilar challenges. challenges. And And just just last last week, week, Justice Justice Minister Minister Ayelet Ayelet Shaked Shaked called called the the restored Mar Gorgis Monastery, sits a would bring their own sifrei Torah. The of Aramaic in their daily lives. Several KurdishKurdish people people a a partner partner for for Israel, Israel, noting noting the the shared shared interests interests of of Israel Israel and and the the stone-enclosed structure with a relatively ceremonies would commence with the years ago we were privileged to meet an KurdsKurds in in defeating defeating the the rise rise of of jihadist jihadist Islamist Islamist groups groups in in the the region. region. new hard plastic covering to protect reading of the prophecy of Nachum elderly Kurdish rabbi in Holon who has TheThe KurdsKurds wewe metmet inin thatthat regionregion ofof history,history, tradition,tradition, andand strifestrife askedasked usus toto relayrelay aa the decaying buildings inside from the from an ancient manuscript, followed by translated the Torah into their dialect of simplesimple message:message: “We“We KurdsKurds likelike IsraelIsrael andand JewsJews andand wantwant toto havehave muchmuch moremore toto dodo rain. When the last rabbi left the town in prayer and singing and dancing. Then Aramaic. withwith you you in in the the years years to to come.” come.” We’re We’re passing passing it it on. on.——

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