ESENT I PR AR To see our subscription D N A I options, please click on the R A Mishpacha tab Questmesor ah 50 MILES FROM Of course we got raised eyebrows as we boarded a plane to Iraq, yet Kurdistan proved to be a welcoming, friendly place where our ISISyarmulkes elicited comments such as “We love Jews.” We wanted to know what remained of an ancient Jewish community that fled to safer shores in the last century: We discovered a lot of ignorance, but an equal amount of Jewish pride TEXT BY Ari Greenspan and Ari Z. Zivotofsky PHOTOS Ari Greenspan, Ari Z. Zivotofsky, Rabbi Eliyahu Birnbaum 36 MISHPACHA ari n ari_596.indd 35 08/02/2016 14:28:57 ari n ari_596.indd 36 08/02/2016 14:29:38 Fifty Miles from ISIS F1. Yet several months ago when we heard that the government of Kurdistan — a semiautonomous region in northern Iraq — had appointed a Jewish affairs representative, we just had to go and see for ourselves. We decided to be his guests. For those of us living in the West, Iraq conjures images of perpetual war and incessant terror attacks. There was Saddam Hussein, the Iraq-Iran war, the US-led invasion of Iraq, as well as the subsequent power vacuum and the lightning-fast emergence of the deadly ISIS. Yet our back-channel investigations and research with various security organizations told us that safety in Kurdistan — even wearing our kippot publicly — was not a concern despite it being in Iraq. Well, even if walking the Kurdish streets was safe, we still had to decide to either fly via Jordan and over ISIS-controlled areas or via Turkey. Despite the decades-long tensions between Turkey and Kurdistan — last year alone Turkey killed more than 3,000 Kurds and the Kurdistan Workers Party or PKK is viewed as a terrorist organization engaged in an ongoing militant struggle We’ve for an independent Kurdistan on Turkish soil — Turkish Air still F2. flies there frequently, and so we set off from Tel Aviv to Istanbul. searched for Because our time in the country was quite limited, we quickly Jews and realized in planning our itinerary that we’d need a local expert to facilitate our meeting with relevant people and to get from place examined to place efficiently during a very short visit. We discovered that a 1. It would have been con- local leading authority on Kurdish Jewry is a woman named Judit sidered an affront had we not made the 3-hour detour remnants of Neurink, a Dutch journalist and writer who has lived in Iraqi to Barzan. (L to R) Ari G., communities Kurdistan for the past eight years, became intrigued with Kurdish Ari Z., Sheikh Barzani, our Jewish history, and even wrote a novel about the Jewish heritage companion Rabbi Eli Birn- all over the of Kurdistan. It turns out that her services were indispensable in baum, our armed escort “Y,” globe — but to helping us hit the ground running for the short time we were in our guide Sherzad, and the this country of conflicts. sheikh’s bodyguard travel to Iraq? Although there are approximately 30 million Kurds in the Middle East, forming minority populations in Turkey, Iran, Iraq, 2. Sheikh Barzani shows us With some of 3. and Syria, there has never been a modern independent Kurdish the “Jewish bath,” which we F state. While the vast majority of Kurds are Muslim, there are also first thought was an ancient its territory mikveh. No luck — just a Christians and Jews along with several other minorities, such as pre-plumbing spring 4. overrun by Zoroastrians, Yazidis, Bahais, and other small groups. Kurdistan F ISIS and in the is a tough neighborhood, and, as the locals told us, “at least you 3. At the grave of Mullah have the Mediterranean on one of your borders.” What they Mustafa Barzani, visited by throes of civil meant was that both Israel and Iraqi Kurdistan are surrounded 100,000 people a year, we bloodbaths, by hostile countries, but at least the sea is not an aggressive heard how this leader invit- neighbor, while Iraqi Kurdistan is bordered by the anti-Kurdish ed the Jews to Barzan to live that was one Turkey, Syria, Iraq, ISIS, and Iran. under his protection 4. We might have been just place we never Battle-Scarred Escorts We entered Iraq via Istanbul kilometers away from imagined we’d through the Kurdistan provincial capital of Erbil, a modern, even ISIS-controlled land, but our affluent-looking city of over a million people. Here you could yarmulkes didn’t seem to get to, at least easily forget that ISIS is only tens of kilometers away, and that bother anyone in the local in this decade. Baghdad and other Iraqi cities faced with perpetual instability shuk 38 MISHPACHA ari n ari_596.indd 37 08/02/2016 14:29:52 ari n ari_596.indd 38 08/02/2016 14:31:25 Fifty Miles from ISIS These Benjews have one thing in common — Jewish blood — and it might 5. have come from a mother, father, or are not too far south. But despite the seeming tranquility, there F grandparent; but many of them also were regular reminders that we were in a multinational war zone. believe in Islam and go to the mosque We were met at the airport by Y, who would be our armed escort most of the time we were in Kurdistan. As he led us to his 6. armored Mercedes 4x4, we noticed the revolver in his traditional F waistband sash and an automatic weapon on the floor of the vehicle. At the end of our trip, before bidding us farewell, he the caretaker was scribbled on the gate. Our translator called her, and casually mentioned that half his intestines were gone, showing after waiting 20 minutes in the rain, she finally appeared and let us us where the bullet had entered and exited his abdomen while in. She explained that her family has been taking care of this site for fighting in Iraq under Saddam. seven generations and admitted that it’s not actually Ezra’s grave, but We were joined by our governmental host (thanks to Judit’s rather “where he slept.” connections), Sherzad Omer Mamsani, who extended his She then proceeded to tell us a legend about Ezra falling asleep on left hand in greeting because the lower part of his right arm is this site for 100 years. We are not familiar with any such midrash, but artificial. He later told us that years earlier a bomb had been who knows if there really was a connection between Ezra and this planted at his door by Islamist militants due to his involvement particular site? After all, he did live in this part of the world. And so, in improving Israel-Kurdish relations, and when he opened in deference to custom, we took our shoes off as requested and went the door, his arm was blown off. Standing in the chilly air, he down to the “grave” — located in a mausoleum built in the 1600s by a explained to us that he gets cold easily, owing to the thousand local Muslim — to the tapping boom-boom of the caretaker’s pulsating pieces of shrapnel still lodged in his body. Driving around Erbil, traditional drum. the street signs that pointed toward Baghdad and Mosul (the F7. ISIS capital) were an ever-present reminder of where we were, antiterrorismantiterrorism in in the the country, country, as as we we entered entered the the tent tent and and sat sat with with Boon and Bust Around five years ago the autonomous region of so we were really quite grateful for this official entourage. them.them. Spanning Spanning the the length length of of the the tent tent was was a a long long table table laden laden with with Kurdistan saw an economic boon that attracted foreign investments As we drove around town, Erbil seemed safe, stable, and meat,meat, rice,rice, andand pitas,pitas, refreshmentsrefreshments forfor thethe hundredshundreds ofof peoplepeople as well as encouraged the return of Kurdish expatriates. Erbil became pleasant, but we couldn’t ignore the undercurrent of war and millingmilling around.around. WeWe howeverhowever satsat inin earnestearnest discussiondiscussion withwith thethe the fastest-growing city in Iraq with the country’s tallest building and suffering just over the border — this region of six million people mayor,mayor, consideredconsidered toto bebe thethe oneone ofof thethe mostmost powerfulpowerful menmen inin a new airport. And although the bubble burst soon after, remnants of is currently hosting about two million foreign and internally thethe country —country — aboutabout bothboth hishis personalpersonal lossloss andand aboutabout regionalregional those years can still be seen in some of the huge construction starts displaced refugees. One evening while shopping for souvenirs, politics.politics. WeWe werewere pleasantlypleasantly surprisedsurprised byby hishis friendlyfriendly demeanordemeanor that were never finished, as well as in the many new cars and other we struck up a conversation with a man who spoke excellent andand thethe sinceresincere respectrespect andand friendshipfriendship hehe expressedexpressed forfor Israel.Israel. signs of wealth on the streets. English and explained to us how he had fled the fighting in ThisThis waswas aa themetheme thatthat repeatedrepeated itselfitself manymany timestimes throughoutthroughout While the region is now going through tough economic times and Damascus at the very beginning and had already established ourour visit. visit. is in the midst of a standoff with the central Baghdad government himself in Erbil. The store’s cashier, on the other hand, had over oil revenue owed to them, Kurdistan as part of Iraq still attracts arrived only four months ago from a Syrian town that had been TheThe 100-Year100-Year NapNap TodayToday ErbilErbil isis aa modernmodern city,city, butbut European do-gooders.