flNiTWRPTifP A NEWS BULLETIN published quarterly by the NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY (INC)
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ANTARCTIC PENINSULA 1 Teniente Matiehzo arg. 2 Esperarlza arg. 3 Almirante Brown arg. 4 Petrel arg. 5 Deception arg. 6 Vicecomodoro Marambio arg. ' ANTARCTICA 7 Arturo Prat chile 8 Bernardo O'Higgins chile 11)00 Miles 9 Presidente Frei chile 500 1000 Kilometres 10 Stonington I. ux. r 11 Adelaide'!, uk. ABBREVIATIONS 12 Argentine Is uk. ARG ARGENTINA 1 3 P a l m e r u s a 1 AUST. AUSTRALIA W Bellingshausen ussr ■ N2. NEW ZEALAND S A SOUTH AFRICA UK UNITED KINGDOM 'larsen . USA UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Ic* Shelf i USSR UNION OF SOVIET SOCIALIST REPUBLICS (successor to "Antarctic News Bulletin') No. 6 90th Issue Juni Editor: J.M. CAFFIN, 35 Chepstow Avenue, Christchurch. 5. Address all contributions, inquiries etc. to the Editor. CONTENTS ARTICLES SOLO'S VOYAGE 183-186 POLAR ACTIVITIES NEW ZEALAND 180-182, 188, 195-196 U NITED STATES 178-180, 187 AUSTRALIA 191,202 FRANCE 190 UNITED KINGDOM 192-194 SOVIET UNION 189-190 NORWAY 190
SUB-ANTARCTIC MACQUARIE ISLAND I 203-205 GENERAL POLAR MEDAL AWARDS 195-196 HISTORIC HUTS 197-201 WORLD WHALING 194 BALLOONS OVER ICE 205 TOURISM 206-207 THE READER WRITES 208 OBITUARY 209-212 © New Zealand Antarctic Society (Inc) 1978 No part of this publication may be reproduced in any way without the prior permission of the publishers ANTARCTIC WINTER DIARY WORLD OF DARKNESS AND COLD
Winter took its time coming to the South Pole this year after the sun departed in the third week of March. In April the average temperature was 50.6deg Celsius — the highest since records were first kept at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station in 1957. But last month 19 Americans, two New Zealanders, and one Soviet exchange scientist, who have been isolated since February 10, realised that winter was upon them. On May 10 the thermometer recorded minus 71.0deg (minus 98.8deg Fahrenheit), the coldest temperature of the year. Their nearest neighbours, 74 Ameri- FIRSTFIRST WARNING WARNING cans, including one woman scientist, TowardsTowards the the end end of of February February came and 10 New Zealanders and one thethe first first warning of of winter winter — _ the Australian, on Ross Island 1327km o temperaturetemperature dropped dropped to to minus minus 50deg thenorth.enjoyedthesunshineahttle c C, and and remained remained below below that that figure. figure. A°n^orJ * ,-,Unild n0t SwLe U^1 InsideInside the the geodesic geodesic dome dome which which houses April 25 But like the men at the Pole thethe station station buiidings buildings the winter team those at McMurdo Station and Scott under the management of Michael Bases have settled down to winter Pavlak) settled down to the winter darkness lower temperatures, and a routine,Pavlak, checking settled down stores to and the equip- winter world of their own until September. routine, _._, makin„ checking scientiflc stores observations. and equip ment, making scientific observations, Winter also began slowly for the five and coping with the problems of daily Americans at Siple Station, the most living at the South Pole — heating, remote United States station on the lighting, and plumbing. continent, 2250km from McMurdo Station at the base of the Antarctic High winds and dropping temper Peninsula in Ellsworth Land, and atures marked the first weeks of 1500km from the Pole. The sun set March. The sun set for the last time there on April 30, and north-west officially on March 23, but blowing storms kept temperatures relatively snow and low cloud obscured the event. A week earlier the station's high in the first weeks. But the resident Irishman, John Keegan, and weather grew colder early last month, his colleagues, celebrated St Patrick's the regular pattern of days of ice fog Day, an occasion for drinking green and blowing snow was broken, and the beer. Outside the temperature dropped clear night sky was filled by brilliant to minus 63deg in the second week, red and green auroras. and to 65.6deg in the third week. Preparations for winter at the Pole Stars appeared on April 5, and three began after the departure of the last aircraft of the season. The flags of the days later the Southern Cross was Antarctic Treaty nations which are sighted for the first time in six months. April 8 was also the day on which the flown there all summer, and the South United States flag was lowered. It will Pole sign, were taken indoors where be raised again when the sun returns they will remain until the first aircraft towards the end of September. brings mail and fresh food early in November. One of the two New Zealanders ANTARCTIC responsible for the meteorological Bach in D Minor was planned. observations, John Waller and Kevin Bisset, was the first to sight an aurora. John Waller observed its pale green SKI WEATHER fleeting colours only briefly on April 12. Those were the main events in When the temperature dropped to April except for the persistently low minus 40deg in the second week behaviour of the thermometer. The everyone began to feel the cold but highest temperature it recorded was looked forward to dark nights and the minus 36.5deg, but for most of the expected auroras. But the weather was month temperatures remained in the good enough for ski-ing although minus 60s. exposed nuts and bolts made downhill runs off the Siple II arch a little rough. So the team settled for a less vertical MAGNETIC STORMS drop at the construction camp. May began with celebrations — May Temperatures continued to drop in Day, and on May 3 the end of the the third week, and the month ended team's first six months at the Pole. with the ice fog and blowing snow Magnetic storms interrupted comm unications with other stations most of the first week, and the temperature dropped to minus 64deg. The coldest day of the year was May 10 when the temperature dropped still further to minus 71deg. The weather was a little Heavy drifting snow and the usual better towards the end of the month — ice fog marked the second week of there was an improvement to minus April, and temperatures remained in 67deg. the low 30s. There was clear weather for the last two days of the third week, This month the South Pole will still which made it possible to watch the be a Pole of Cold, but the winter team sun rise and set, and move outside to can look forward to Mid-Winter's Day, make the trash run. On April 30 the marking the turn of the Antarctic sun set for the last time. year. Twilight will start to replace the darkness early in August, and the May arrived with clear weather on sun's glow will not be far behind. most days, and brilliant auroral displays on five out of seven nights. Less than a week after the departure But the temperature dropped to minus of the last aircraft on February 11 the men at Siple Station reported the first 45.5deg. Then the north-west storm visible sunset of the winter. Then came began again with ice fog and blowinj a storm with winds up to 59 knots, and snow, but warmer temperatures, the highest being 6.6deg in the secom with it ice fog and blowing snow. By third weeks. The wind kept blowini the time the storm blew itself out on and peak gusts of 54 and 57 knots were February 18 snow had drifted to a recorded. height of 3m at the end of the dome arch which will house the buildings of PENGUIN MARCH Siple II, the new station which will be occupied in January next year. Winter at McMurdo Station was marked by relatively milder weather, March brought the first hint of but it conformed to the same pattern of auroral activity, and in the first week a high winds and low temperatures after minor storm which covered the hard the last ships and aircraft departed packed snow round the station with 50 towards the end of February. The to 75mm of powder snow. John weather was good during the first McKinnon, the station engineer, re week of March except for colder ported that the musical organ had temperatures, a trace of snow, and been restored, and a Sunday recital of more wind. ANTARCTIC Early in the second week there was a After the last of the summer support warning of bad weather to come when staff left on February 21 the winter 60 penguins marched past the station. team prepared for a month of adjust Then winds rising to 40 knots with a ment to the quiet winter routine after a peak of 46 knots on March 17 whipped busy summer. Blizzards and overcast the snow up, and for five hours visib cold days confined everyone inside for ility was reduced to 400m. Sections of most of March. The nights were much sea ice round Hut Point were blown out darker — the sun shining only a few by the storm on March 16. hours each day — the temperatures were as low as minus 40deg, the Moderate storms moving south from average being minus 20deg. Cape Adare brought winds rising to 58 knots during most of the third week, Most of the winter team managed, and one inch of snow. On March 24 the however, to visit Cape Crozier on two ice extending from Hut Point to Cape weekend trips. The parties travelled by Armitage was blown out to sea. tracked vehicle across Windless Bight, Temperatures dropped in the last a windless powder bowl of soft snow week, and most of the ice in Winter about 30km across. Cape Crozier lived Quarters Bay refroze. Then high up to its reputation for bad weather, winds blew about half of it out to sea. and the wind made navigation diffic ult in the ice fields. OFFICIAL SUNSET But the parties' efforts were well- rewarded by the comfort of a heated Milder weather with little wind and hut, and the sight of towering ice cliffs higher temperatures marked the first falling to the sea, and odd sandy two weeks of April. A north-east wind beaches. A lonely Chinstrap penguin flow aloft brought unseasonably warm was discovered on shore, a rare sight temperatures in the third week, the in an area known for its population of highest recorded being minus 7.2deg. Emperor and Adelie penguins. It was The wind reached a peak of 59 knots on hundreds of kilometres from its near April 17. est habitat. Sunset was observed officially on WINTER HOBBIES April 24, and the last days of the month were comparatively pleasant Indoor bowls, basketball, and volley until the evening of April 28 when ball competitions attracted several of the New Zealanders to McMurdo temperatures began to drop. Peak Station during the month. Those who gusts of 43 knots on April 28 and 32 knots on April 29 were recorded. preferred to remain at home began their winter hobbies, which ranged Winds gusting to 56 knots and from model-making to brewing ginger blowing snow introduced more wintry beer. weather early in May. Then the three hours of twilight in the first two weeks In his April newsletter the leader, were replaced by complete darkness, John Lythgoe, of Wellington, reported and still lower temperatures. that the month had gone from one of 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of FULL MOON darkness to one of mainly darkness and about five to six hours of twilight Winter darkness and low temperat around noon. The sun left the base for ures are now the daily experience of the last time on April 13, and dis the Americans' neighbours over the appeared below the horizon for more hill — 10 New Zealanders and one than three months on April 25. Australian at Scott Base, although the weather was relatively warm last Temperatures were down with a month. Also the darkness was relieved daily average for the month of minus by a full moon in a clear sky which lit 23deg, and a lowest temperature of up the ice and the surrounding terrain. minus 40deg. During the month the ANTARCTIC sea ice refroze in front of Cape which could be described as really Armitage and around towards the warm for an Antarctic winter. The base, but Winter Quarters Bay and highest temperature of the month was further out in McMurdo Sound the minus 6.6deg, and the lowest 43.6deg. water was still fairly open. Sea fogs continued to rise regularly off the A change from the perpetual dark ness was the arrival of a full moon on water, and mirages were visible at times across the sea ice to the south in May 18. For a week it provided enough the areas of Black and White Islands, light for the men to walk around and Minna Bluff. outside the base, and was the most photographed subject of the month. In TIN DOGS the clear air it lit up the ice and surrounding terrain, and at one point With 17 huskies to care for the dog produced a bright halo around itself as handler, Steve Chambers, of Waiouru, it reflected off ice particles in the air. worked outside as much as possible at first, but in May he turned to the care There was some auroral activity of the "tin dogs", overhauling the during the month, but it was slight, motor toboggans in readiness for the and no good photographs were obtain summer programme. Another task ed. On one clear night a red aurora was undertaken by John Lythgoe was the observed over Mount Erebus; there preparation of 100 food boxes for the was little colour in the others. summer field parties, which involved packing about three tonnes of food. DAY TRIPS Repairs and maintenance of the In the first two weeks there was equipment needed for daily winter enough twilight remaining for two day living, and overhaul of vehicles did not trips, one to the auroral telemetry allow much time for hobbies, although station at Windless Bight, and the Russell Arnott, the cook from Queens- other by dog sledge to Williams Field.
for his model yacht. Waller, postmaster (Clyde). When they Three technicians, Warwick Will arrived the temperature was minus iams (New South Wales), Will Kimber 40deg, and the whole hut was covered (Rotorua) and Dean Drake (Hawera) by snow. have the responsibility of carrying out the scientific programme of seismic, Although the temperature was be tween 39deg and minus 40deg on the magnetic, ionospheric, and auroral studies. The aurora' kept Dean Drake ■. to Williams Field, there was no wind, and still enough twilight. They cover ed a distance of 12km to 15km, and the film and check the instruments. were away from the base for nearly two hours and a half. The homeward WARMER DAYS journey was marked by a cloud of steam ahead of the dog drivers, rising Except for a faint glow in the not from Mount Erebus but from the northern sky between noon and 1 p.m. huskies' breath. May was a month of total darkness, clear skies, little wind, and relatively One effect of the continued darkness warm temperatures. The weather was last month was an increase in insom fairly cool in the first half of the nia. Most of the men found it difficult month, but a southerly storm in the to get a good night's sleep, but lack of second half produced two or three days sleep has not affected their daily ANTARCTIC duties or this year's team project of painting the biological laboratory. And on Tuesdays there is time for Leader at Scott sports at McMurdo Station. The darkness has stopped John Lythgoe's Base regular weekly run to Williams Field and back; now he and Warwick Williams have to make do with circuits of the McMurdo Station gymnasium. Exchanges of visits between the American and New Zealand neigh bours, separated by only about 4km, are part of the pattern of winter life on Ross Island. Last month Scott Base entertained a feminine visitor at dinner. She is Miss Sue Williams, of the University of Texas, who works in the geodetic satellite observatory, and is the fourth American woman to winter at McMurdo Station. former New Zealand Army officer FIRST VISITOR who has served in South Korea, Another visitor arrived on May 16, Pakistan, and South-East Asia, will be but did not stay. It was a United States officer-in-charge of New Zealand's Air Force Galaxy, the world's largest Antarctic research programme next summer. He is Mr John Presland, of transport aircraft, which made a navigational flight from Christchurch Christchurch, who will also be the to Ross Island. Scott Base was advised winter leader at Scott Base next year. by telephone from McMurdo Station of Mr Presland, who is 45, retired from its expected arrival in the early the Army in February this year as afternoon. The day was very cold and second-in-command at Burnham Mili clear, and although the Galaxy was at tary Camp, and with the rank of a high altitude, it could be seen by the major. He has had 25 years' service, New Zealanders against the stars, and and went overseas first in 1953 when was easily observed because of its long he served in South Korea with the 16th vapour trail and landing lights. Field Regiment, Royal New Zealand Scott Base will have to wait another Artillery. His later service included three months for its second aerial two years in Malaysia and South visitor — one of the two ski-equipped Vietnam. In New Zealand he spent Hercules aircraft which will fly south eight years as second-in-command at Linton Military Camp, and then was early in September to prepare for the United States summer research prog posted to Burnham four years ago. ramme. This month the 11 men of the In 1965 Mr Presland served for a winter team are looking forward to year as a United Nations observer in Mid-Winter's Day, a traditional day of Pakistan. He was based in Kashmir, celebration at all Antarctic bases. and during his tour of duty visited June is also an occasion to celebrate Nepal and Afghanistan. birthdays — the Queen's Birthday, and those of three team members. Mr Presland took up his appoint ment with the Antarctic Division, Department of Scientific and Indust rial Research, last month. He will fly south early in October to relieve Mr John Lythgoe, the leader of the winter party at Scott Base. ANTARCTIC Solo's voyage to Ballenys and Cape Adare
Information which will help to determine the feasibility of towing icebergs to Australia was among the scientific data obtained by the Oceanic Research Foundation's Antarctic research expedition in the 17.3m yawl Solo last summer. The expedition, led by Dr David days in . navigated in areas of pack ice for a month. She sailed 6266 nautical miles, and was hove-to in gales for 243 hours. In his preliminary report Dr Lewis, the surface was plus 2deg, and at 75m who is president of the Oceanic down plus 3deg. Research Foundation, says that a The unexpected finding was that no major objective was to make a reconn aissance to evaluate the efficacy of a diminution of salinity could be detect ed on any side of this or any other berg privately-financed, low-cost and flex ible expedition in a small auxiliary ion by wave action rather than melting is the major factor in the break up of icebergs south of the Antarctic expedition cost less than $27,000, and Covergence. These data may be of help 400 gallons of diesel fuel she carried. lems of iceberg towing. Landings were made in the Balleny Dr Lewis, who first sailed to Antarc Islands on Sturge Island, the south- tica alone in his 9.3m sloop Ice Bird in 1972-74, is an authority on Polynesian natural navigation. When the Solo collected biological and geological n ass was virtually useless because of bottom dredging in the areas of the the proximity of the South Magnetic
reports were made. methods. ICEBERG STUDIES LOCATING LAND Between Cape Adare and 65deg 20min S/165deg 45min E, three ice In his report Dr Lewis says that use bergs were studied in sea temperatures of modified Polynesian natural navig varying between minus 3deg and plus ation techniques near the South 3deg Celsius. One of the last bergs — Magnetic Pole may be useful, espec the northernmost seen — was encount ially in emergencies. Similarly, locat ered at 65deg 20min S. Salinity and ing land by observation of the behav temperature runs at a depth of 15 and iour of Antarctic birds and animals 75 metres were made from 150m to 30m may turn out to be as practicable as off this berg. The sea temperature at corresponding Polynesian methods. ANTARCTIC
Scientific results of the expedition, Dorothy Smith, a New Zealand mount and other information, including tect aineer, who did most of the cooking on onic activity logged on January 1 the voyage, Jack Pittar, an electronics when the Solo was at 61deg 55min technician from the Australian Bur S/160deg 50min E, are being studied eau of Mapping, Ted Rayment, an by various interested organisations. Australian Broadcasting Commission During the voyage south the expedit director and cameraman, who is an ion discovered a useful anchorage at experienced ocean yachtsman, and Sturge Island, and also tested success Fritz Schaumberg, a mountaineer and fully a method of melting blocks of scuba diver. pack ice to produce drinking water by using surplus heat from the engine BEST RUN cooling water passed through a copper coil. On her way south the Solo passed well west of Macquarie Island, and it Built of steel with 8mm thick was opposite the island that she made plating, the 25-year-old Solo, which her best noon to noon run of 185 has twice won line honours in the nautical miles (under sail alone). On Sydney-Hobart yacht race, has a 100 January 1 ii horse-power auxiliary diesel engine. between 3.30 p. For the voyage south with a ship's rumbling vibrations transmitted up company of eight she was provisioned from the seabed were recorded. The and carried heating fuel for a year. An position was 61deg 55min S/160deg inflatable surfboat with a 25 horse 50min E, and charted depths ranged power motor was used extensively on from 900 fathoms over a sea mount the voyage. near or under the ship's position to SOLO'S CREW 1500 fathoms down to the ocean floor. When the Solo sailed from Sydney First icebergs were encountered on on December 15 last year the expedit January 2 at 62deg 48min S, and the ion's objective was King George V Solo reached the pack ice next day in Land. But satellite reports of up-to- 64deg 47min S/160deg 15min E, on the date ice conditions on the eve of her 18th day out from Sydney. Loose pack departure dictated a change to the was entered under sail 82 nautical Balleny Islands and Cape Adare. miles north of the Balleny Islands on the morning of January 3, but the next In addition to Dr Lewis, who served day, when the Solo was still under sail as master and ship's doctor, the Solo in fog and falling snow, very heavy carried two other scientists. They pack was encountered. The Solo was were: Dr Pieter Arriens (geophysicist), forced to retreat northwards in an who was officer-in-charge at Davis in effort to round a long eastward 1976-77, and who has made several extension of the pack and approach summer trips with Australian Nation the Ballenys from the east. al Antarctic Research Expeditions; and Dr Peter Donaldson, research On January 4 the Solo hit an ice floe chemist, Australian National Uni and was holed on the port side 3m back versity, who has been on three of Sir from the stem and .6m below the Edmund Hillary's expeditions. waterline. Dr Lewis says the damage was caused because he was driving the First mate and second-in-command vessel too fast through loose pack of the Solo was Lars Larsen, a Danish- under sail. The hole, a bare 12.7mm born graduate of the Norwegian Army across was repaired, but the ship's ice Arctic School, who was a radio capability was reduced in consequ operator and sledge expert at Mawson ence, and she had to be lightened by in 1976-77. He spent two years with the jettisoning much of the emergency North Greenland sledge patrol. kerosene. Other members of the crew were Dr After several frustrating days the ANTARCTIC
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A helicopter view of Sturge Island looking south from the northern end. The photograph was taken in March, 1964, when a New Zealand reconnaissance party visited the Balleny Islands in the American icebreaker Glacier. Antarctic Division photo by Guy Mannering Solo rounded the north-east extension turned southerly, and the main polar of the pack and shaped course south pack began drifting north again, its west for the Ballenys. Young and outliers quickly invading the bay. But Buckle Islands, the northernmost of during the expedition's stay two lands the group, were sighted on January 9. were made on the gravel peninsula But then followed gales and anxious where Adelie penguins and Weddell moments in the pack and fog before a seals were filmed. Force 11 northerly storm lasting 42 hours, drove the pack far southward. A third landing was made at the foot The Solo followed in the wake of the ice of a rock buttress on the south-west that was being drifted south by the side of the bay. Here Dr Arriens storm, and coasted close down the collected oriented rock samples. Dr eastern side of Sturge Island to its Donaldson obtained specimens of south-eastern extremity, Cape Smyth. marine organisms, including jellyfish, from the bay, and a bottom sample In the lee of Cape Smyth the expedit was dredged up. Several bottom ion unexpectedly found good anchor samples were also dredged up, mostly age in a partially sheltered bay (67deg off the southern part of the east coast 35min S/164deg 50min E) at 3 p.m. on of the island after the Solo left the January 13. The anchorage was on the anchorage. south side of an 804m-long snow- covered gravel spit extending out from THREE LANDINGS the main island to a 91m snow-covered hill of volcanic rock. Landings were made on Sabrina Islet while the Solo remained hove-to After 20 hours at anchor the Solo in a polynia for six hours on January was forced to leave because the wind 15. Two landings were made on the ANTARCTIC south side of the snow-covered gravel fuel had been used, and less than half spit connecting the islet proper with the drinking water. the Monolith, and a third on a boulder- fringed scree slope on the north side. On January 23 the Solo left Cape Dr Arriens collected oriented geolog Adare at 11.30 a.m. and headed north ical specimens again, biological speci ward to have another try at the mens were collected by Dr Donaldson, Ballenys and to visit Macquarie Adelie penguin and Weddell seal Island. The first objective was frustr counts made and filming was done. ated by close pack encountered on January 27 when the ship was still 30 Heavy pack ice prevented any close miles east of the Ballenys, and course approach to Borradaile and Young was altered for Macquarie Island. An Islands so the course was shaped unusual observation of widespread around the eastern edge of the pack patches of "foam" was made on towards Cape Adare. For the first and January 26 at 66deg 30min S/164deg last time on the expedition landfall 35min E. Samples were taken and was made in good visibility, the phenomenon was photographed. Victoria Land mountains being sight ed nearly 160km away. PERSISTENT FOG Robertson Bay was choked with ice, Specimens of krill and plankton which was streaming anti-clockwise were collected between Cape Adare round the bay at about two knots, and and 65deg 20min S/165deg 45min E. Stormy north-west winds hampered sweeping out to sea past Cape Adare. the approach to Macquarie Island, Large bergs were aground off the cape and across the mouth of the bay. and persistent fog, which allowed neither sun sights nor land sightings, Two parties in turn were landed by kept the Solo tacking on and off near the rubber surfboat on Ridley Beach the invisible island for three days. while the Solo was hove-to for five hours and a half on January 23 in a Eventually Jack Pittar succeeded in rather transitory polynia, charted as repairing the 24-mile radar, which had just inside the tip of the cape. The frozen up in the fifties, and the island historic huts were filmed and biolog was revealed nine miles off. The Solo ical specimens collected. anchored in Buckle's Bay in the early morning of February 11, and during the expedition's stay assistance was FURTHEST SOUTH given to the A.N.A.R.E. team in the Borchgrevink's tongue and grooved resupply of huts at Ballast Bay (Sandy hut erected in 1899 was intact, Bay) and Green Gully. although full of snow, and his store After the Solo left Macquarie Island hut was also intact though roofless (as on the morning of February 16 she ran it had been in 1911). On the other into extremely rough weather, includ hand, the 1911 hut of Scott's Northern ing a Force 11 storm, which compelled Party was collapsed except for one her to lie-to under trysail for 61 hours. wall. An enormous ridge of pressure South-west of New Zealand, however, ice towered over the inner margin of the wind freed at last to west and Ridley Beach, and the vast Adelie south-west, and, in the 11th week at rookery exhibited the same signs of sea the ship covered 850 nautical overcrowding that Priestley described miles. Two days later, at 4.15 a.m. on (in "Antarctic Adventure"). March 4 she rounded South Head to Cape Adare (71deg 18min S) was the enter Sydney Harbour. expedition's furthest south. The Solo had logged 3590 nautical miles from Sydney, though the more meaningful noon to noon runs had totalled 3228 miles. Less than a quarter of the diesel ANTARCTIC Research in Dufek Massif area likely
Another in vestigation of the mineral potential of the Dufek Massif area in the Pensacola Mountains is expected to be one of the earth science projects in the United States Antarctic research programme for the 1978-79 season. There are ice-free areas of moraine and extensive exposures of the world's second largest basic layered intrusion, where iron, copper, chromium, nickel, platinum, and vanadium occur in small amounts. As part of the evaluation of early in September. On this opera mineral resources in Antarctica tion the aircraft will carry 143 investigations of the Dufek Massif passengers and more than 25 tonnes between October and February next of cargo. year have been proposed. United States Navy Hercules aircraft would Mail, fresh fruit, and vegetables, fly scientists and equipment 1740 will make up much of the cargo. km from McMurdo Station to estab These are eagerly awaited by the 74 lish a base camp. Motor toboggans Americans and 11 New Zealanders would be used for movement in the on Ross Island who have been area. remote from the outside world since late in February. Among the passen This would be the third expedition gers will be scientists who will make to the Dufek Massif (82deg 36min an early start on summer projects, S/52deg 30min) since the intrusion and construction staff to make the was discovered in 1957. Geological annual ice runway in McMurdo studies were made in the 1965-66 Sound ready for the major airlift of season, and in the 1976-77 season a the season in October. United States Geological Survey team spent a month in the area. This By the end of next season all team collected samples from the traces of the nuclear power plant on lower exposed half of the igneous Observation Hill which supplied rock complex, and made geophysi electric power to McMurdo Station cal studies of the nature of the rocks for more than 10 years will have under the ice. gone. Since the plant was closed down in September, 1972, its nuclear No deposits of potential economic fuel, buildings, and equipment have usefulness or of significant size were been removed over several seasons. found in the 1976-77 season. But the intrusion may have future economic importance because of its similari GRAVEL REMOVED ties to other rich metal-producer In the last two seasons, to meet the layered intrusions elsewhere in the world. requirements of the Antarctic Treaty, the United States naval EARLY FLIGHTS support force has removed many tonnes of marginally contaminated To prepare for the complete re gravel from the area round the search programme next season two power plant site. The supply ship ski-equipped Hercules aircraft of the ISchuyler Otis Bland carried 7908 United States Navy's VXE-6 Squad tonnes to Port Hueneme, California, ron will make up to six flights from in the 1976-77 season, and another Christchurch to McMurdo Station 4200 tonnes last season. ANTARCTIC Additional contaminated gravel to return to the Antarctic next was discovered last season as a season. She made a successful result of surveys by the Navy's icebreaking debut in Antarctic nuclear waste removal unit, and an waters last season, working with the independent survey team which has two veterans, Glacier and Burton to certify that the area is completely Island, but the voyage produced clear of radioactive material. The problems. quantity was small, and some was in areas of limited accessibility for Because of a fault in a propeller men and equipment. There has been bearing the Polar Star had to return no increase in the level of radio to Wellington, and then went back to activity. Seattle for repairs. Here three vari Because of various delays the able pitch propeller systems, which •land was one of the last two ships caused trouble during her Arctic to leave McMurdo Sound last sea- trials, are being redesigned, and ion. Some of the additional contam- engineers also plan to correct a ated gravel could not be removed thrust bearing problem which pro — time. Therefore the Bland will duced excessive vibration during have to load between 300 and 600 cubic yards — the last of the Both the Polar Star and her sister marginally contaminated material ship, the Polar Sea, were in dock last — on one of her voyages south next year for changes in their propeller season. systems. The Polar Sea has been on Although the United States Coast limited duty in the Arctic during the Guard's most powerful icebreaker, northern summer to guard against the 13,000 tonne Polar Star has any damage to the propeller system. spent several months in dry dock She may come south late this year this year for repairs, she is expected for Antarctic ice trials First New Zealand dog sledges Tradition dies hard in the Antarctic. bonded by resin syrup, are lashed New Zealand has used huskies at Scott together with rawhide, and waxed Base for more than 20 years, and now linen thread has been used for other the sledges they pull are made by trad components. The only man-made mat itional methods with natural mater erials are the resin syrup, glue, and the ials. And next summer the sledges will tufnol sheathing on the runners. carry plywood food boxes like those These sledges are the first of their used by Scott and Shackleton. kind to be made in New Zealand. The Rising prices and high freight costs craftmanship has been highly praised have made imported sledges too by an art critic who saw one exhibited expensive. So last year the Antarctic at a crafts exhibition in Christchurch Division, Department of Scientific and this year. T.L. Rodney Wilson describ Industrial Research, decided to have ed it as nothing short of perfect... it had this essential equipment made in New all the quality of a classic object. Zealand. Two sledges were made by a Fifty plywood food boxes have been Christchurch craftsman, Mr Robert made in Christchurch for use by New Spence, at a cost of $800 each, and Zealand field parties next season. The were used last season on the 40km Antarctic Division has gone back to journey between Scott Base and Cape the food transportation system used Royds. A third sledge will be in use by Scott and Shackleton because the next season. wooden boxes are stronger and lighter Built to a traditional Norwegian than the cardboard boxes used prev design, the sledges are made of red iously. beechwood. The laminated runners, SOVIET REPORTS 265 men wintering at six permanent stations
Geologists of the 23rd Soviet Antarctic Expedition, who worked in the Pensacola Mountains and the Shackleton Range again last season, studied the structure of the Dufek Massif during their surveys from the summer station, Druzhnaya, on the Filchner Ice Shelf, and also determined the structure of the Shackleton Range more accurately. Their data suggest that the massif represents the remains of magma whose age has been estimated at 300 million years. This winter there are 265 men at the United States scientists made simil six permanent Soviet stations— Molo ar measurements of water temperat dezhnaya, Mirny, Vostok, Novolazar ures under the ice by lowering instrum evskaya, Bellingshausen, and Lenin ents down the 420m hole drilled gradskaya. The winter group is head through the ice shelf. When the Soviet ed by O.K. Sedov, and the leader of the scientists followed their colleagues, team at Mirny is A. Budretsky, who their instruments also registered a has wintered twice before. Six ships temperature close to freezing point. took about 550 scientists and support But then the thermometer pointer staff south last season, and the swung to positive, and became still, expedition was headed by Professor indicating that the instrument was V.I. Serdyukov. passing through a layer of warm water. Soviet scientists headed by Dr I. Zotikov worked with scientists of other This warm water layer was 50m nations in the international Ross Ice deep. The neighbouring cold layer was Shelf Project last summer. They 100m deep. The results were so studied the temperatures of the sea surprising that the measurements water under the ice shelf, and estab were repeated to establish that there lished that there are two distinct were two distinct temperature layers temperature layers under the ice. under the ice, and an active heat and water exchange These temperature differences are Among the projects in last season's '>elieved to be the product of two Soviet programme were the convers nter currents. A warm current ion of Molodezhnaya into a refi^nal winch has its source in the open sea meteorological centre, and th hundreds of kilometres from the ice letion of the modernisation of of shelf, passes under it, becomes cooler, and forms a cold current that flows Mirny, the oldest Soviet station, from it. established in 1956, and once the head quarters of the research programme. One of the main projects was the South Korea has advised the 13 construction of an airfield for heavy Antarctic Treaty nations that it aircraft at Molodezhnaya. wishes to become a party to the treaty. As it has no Antarctic research prog After the traditional football match, ramme it will have the same status as won by the departing scientists, the nations like Rumania, the German new team at Mirny settled in for the Democratic Republic, Denmark, Czec winter. Scientific activities and hoslovakia, and Brazil. months of complete darkness will not ANTARCTIC June,1978 check their vegetable growing, a tree which flourishes and bears fruit regular practice at Soviet stations for despite the lack of sunshine. several years. Last summer a group of geophysic With the aid of hydroponics and ists at Mirny took the horticultural artificial light the men at Mirny will honours. They managed to bring a have tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, water melon almost to full ripeness by gherkins, and parsley on their menus January. It was eaten for dessert at the this winter. They also have a lemon New Year party.
French team drills to 900m at Dome C
Glaciological studies of Dome C, the Hercules aircraft, which also brought ice dome in Wilkes Land 1150km from ice cores back from the drilling site. McMurdo Station, were resumed last season by a French team led by Dr As Dome C is more than 3214m Claude Lorius, who first worked there above sea level, the French team spent in the 1973-74 season. The team a short time at the Amundsen-Scott planned to drill into the ice-cap to a Pole Station to acclimatise. After depth of 1000m, but drilling stopped at several weeks at Dome C the team 900m. returned to McMurdo Station on January 26, and the ice cores were Dome C (74deg 39min S/123deg brought back for study on January 28. lOmin E) is one of three ice domes in Some were taken to France for further 11 the region, which is one of the signific study in a glaciological laboratory. ant centres of ice flow in East Antarctica. The ice at Dome C is about These cores will help to establish the 3400m thick, and at the lower levels is glaciological history of the Polar m estimated to be 30,000 years old. Plateau, and climatic changes over the last 25,000 years. Cores recovered from Last season's programme was part levels down to 100m will be studied for of the International Antarctic Glacio traces of pollution, and also to meas logical Project, which is a joint study ure and gauge atmospheric condit- of a large part of the East Antarctic ice sheet by scientists of five nations — Australia, France, the United King dom, the United States, and the Soviet Third Norwegian Union. Dr Lorius and his team of expedition scientists and technicians, which included a 28-year-old woman glaciol Norway is expected to send a third ogist, Martine Briat, used the Dome C expedition to Antarctica in the 1978-79 camp established by the United States season. It will continue the research mw naval support force for the recovery of done in western Queen Maud Land Hercules aircraft damaged in Wilkes and the Weddell Sea during the last Land in previous seasons. two seasons. Before the French team flew from Organised and led by the Norweg McMurdo Station the camp and ian Polar Institute, the last two skiway were prepared by construction expeditions have used the chartered workers of the support force. Nearly 30 500-tonne icebreaker Polarsirkel. It tons of supplies and equipment were will probably be chartered again this flown to Dome C by U.S. Navy ANTARCTIC
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m* w t 1 Si Herald and Weekly Times photo Australian thanks for Soviet aid
Five months ago an Australian Senator Webster presented a colour radio technician, Mr Colin Perger, of photograph of Davis Station to the Launceston, Tasmania, was evacuat leader of the expedition, Dr Valeriy ed by air from Davis to hospital in Serdyukov. The inscription reads: Christchurch after he had collapsed Presented to Mirny Station in grateful and become seriously ill with a bleed recognition of the assistance rendered ing duodenal ulcer. He was flown by the 22nd Soviet Antarctic Expedit 700km by Soviet helicopter from Davis ion in the evacuation of a seriously ill to Mirny, and then transferred to a A.N.A.R.E. expeditioner from Davis in United States Navy Hercules aircraft January, 1978. for the 6300km flight to New Zealand. In the photograph above Captain In April when the Mikhail Somov, Mikhail Mikhailov, master of the flagship of the Soviet Antarctic fleet, Mikhail Somov, is holding a balalaika called at Melbourne, Mr Perger, now which he presented to Senator Web fully recovered, was able to meet and ster. Others from left to right are: Mr thank the pilots of the helicopter who Perger, Senator Webster, Dr Serdyu flew him from Davis on the first leg of kov, and Mr Philip Sulzberger, assist a flight which saved his life. The ant director, Antarctic Division. Minister of Science (Senator James Webster) and officers of the Antarctic Division, went aboard the ship also to express their gratitude to members of the 22nd Soviet Antarctic Expedition for their assistance in the evacuation. ANTARCTIC B.A.S. NEWS Geologists wintering at General Belgrano
Persistent ice south of the Argentine Islands, which blocked the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, and bad weather which grounded aircraft, made the end of last season frustrating for the ships and aircraft of the British Antarctic Survey. The Royal Research Ship Bransfield faced many difficulties in the relief of Rothera and Faraday (Argentine Islands), and a geological reconnaissance party which worked in the Shackleton Range during the summer is now spending the winter with 20 Argentinians at their base, General Belgrano, where the party was stranded in February. This winter the B.A.S. has 70 men at its five bases, and three at General Belgrano. There are 10 at Faraday, 19 at Grytviken (South Georgia), 17 at Halley, 12 at Rothera, and 12 at Signy in the South Orkney Islands. Originally the geological party was put on board. Parts of the aircraft were flown to the Shackleton Range by way used to repair the American Survair of General Belgrano in mid-November Twin-Otter which was damaged in a and remained there until mid-Jan gale at Rothera in mid-February uary. But the three men could not be ("Antarctic", March, 1978). The air picked up from General Belgrano by craft, which was in transit from one of the B.A.S. Twin Otter aircraft McMurdo Station after supporting the because of the persistent bad weather Ross ice Shelf Project, was able to in February. An Argentine aircraft fly out and continue its flight to the which flew over the base at the end of United States. April to drop additional supplies and equipment was unable to land because ICE HAZARDS it was not ski-equipped. The Bransfield was unable to reach Bad weather grounded the two Rothera until the end of February, as B.A.S. Twin-Otter aircraft for much of the west coast of the Antarctic the season, and the aeromagnetic Peninsula south of the Argentine flights were also held up by faults in Islands had been blocked by persistent the equipment. Both aircraft were due ice. After relieving Halley the ship to return to Canada in March for their made a series of geophysical traverses annual overhaul, but one was damag in the Weddell Sea and Scotia Sea. ed beyond local repair while trying to take off with a full load from a very Then it revisited Signy and Grytvik rough surface at Rothera, Adelaide en en route, and went north to South Island. Fortunately, the occupants America to pick up the ship's co- were uninjured. master and summer visitors. The latter included Dr Raymond Adie The Bransfield, which had been (B.A.S. deputy director), Dr Leslie delayed by persistent ice in Marguerite Kent (a South African observer) and Bay, was still in the area, so the Captain Fernando Nogueira de Arau- crashed aircraft was dismantled and jo (a Brazilian Navy observer). ANTARCTIC
When the Bransfield returned to the Rothera buildings, but by then the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula temperatures had dropped too low for ice conditions were still bad, and it was laying concrete, and the construction very doubtful whether the ship would work had to be postponed until next be possible to reach Rothera. It was summer. Damien II was reported to be even difficult to complete the relief of wintering at the old Adelaide base. Faraday. The Bransfield arrived there on February 25 but was able to On the voyage north, the ship called discharge only part of the cargo before at Faraday, Palmer and Almirante sailing on February 27 as the scow and Brown stations, and geologists visited launches were unable to make head a number of localities. Two weeks were way through the ice. then spent in the South Shetland Islands, and off the northern tip of the About this time, H.M.S. Endurance Antarctic Peninsula where geoceiver was also unable to sail further south, stations were established and geolog because zero visibility added to the ical landings were made. After a final hazards. However, the 14m French visit to Signy, Bird island and Gryt yacht Damien II had managed to slip viken, the Bransfield returned to the into the Argentine Islands for shelter, Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas). and the husband-and-wife crew were She reached Southampton late last welcome visitors at the base. After five month. days they left for the south, intending to winter in Marguerite Bay. MARINE WORK On February 28 the Bransfield at last managed to reach Rothera. She Meanwhile, the Royal Research Ship John Biscoe spent six weeks on spent 10 days discharging cargo, but the first season of the new Offshore strong southerly winds and low temp eratures then consolidated the ice off Biological Project (O.B.P.) near South the base, and the ship had to stand off. Georgia, the scientific work being supervised by Mr Nigel Bonner, head During this time equipment was of the B.A.S. Life Sciences Division. picked up from the Adelaide base. The purpose of the O.B.P. is to JETTY DEMOLISHED investigate the environment and bio logy of krill and its major predators, in When the Bransfield was able to order to provide a sound scientific return to Rothera, the ice foot near the basis for rational management of base collapsed on to the jetty and stocks, and to ensure against over- demolished it, but then it was possible exploitation. A draft convention on to unload on to the ice foot. the conservation of Antarctic marine Ice conditions were still extremely living resources was drawn up at a special Antarctic Treaty consultative difficult, but at last all the general stores, 1,000 drums of aviation fuel, meeting in Canberra in February- 136 tonnes of concrete and building March. materials were unloaded and the ship Dr Richard Laws, director of the left finally on March 24. On board B.A.S. attended the meeting. Earlier in were a number of summer field October-November he took part in an workers who had been airlifted back to international expedition, sponsored the base in early February, to await by the National Science Foundation, the ship's arrival, and fortunately which spent one month on Hero in the were available to help with the Bransfield Strait pack ice, studying unloading. the breeding biology and population dynamics of the crabeater seal — the The concrete and building materials world's most abundant species. were to have been used for the con struction of a large store and work Last season large numbers of trawl shop, which would have completed the ers and fisheries research vessels
jfl'ffjt 1' --'".»-, i H ■ H >fewr-
ANTARCTIC June,1978 operated around South Georgia and by anyone on board, and the largest the South Orkney Islands. There were ever known to have drifted north of two Russian and two Polish mother 60deg S. It was first sighted by the ships with 35 Russian, Polish and John Biscoe about 32km north of Shag East German trawlers, a Polish re Rocks, 53 deg 33 min S/42 deg 2 min W search trawler, the two German re of South Georgia. This iceberg was a search vessels Walther Herwig and tabular berg about 30m high, measur Julius Fock, and a Russian whale- ing 38 x 50km, which has been catcher. A number of these called at followed by B.A.S. on satellite imagery Grytviken. The South African naval since 1967. It is now known to have survey vessel S.A.S. Protea, and the calved from the Trolltunga Glacier Hero also spent some time in the area. tongue near the Greenwich meridian, During the O.B.P. the John Biscoe possibly as a result of the impact of a encountered large quantities of ice, giant iceberg originating from the including the largest iceberg ever seen Amery Ice Shelf in 1963.
World whaling convention
Proposals for a new international in favour. New Zealand was not convention for whales and/or ceta represented. ceans may be considered at the annual meeting of the International Whaling Last year the commission prohibit Commission this month. Arrange ed the hunting of the Bering Sea stock ments for a preliminary meeting of all of bowhead whales, which was in nations which might be interested danger of extinction because catches were discussed at a special meeting of by Alaskan Eskimos were increasing, the commission in Tokyo last Decem and more whales were being struck but ber. not landed. United States Government proposals for a curtailment of catch Revised 1978 catch limits for North ing because of the Alaskan Eskimos' Pacific sperm whales were set at the subsistence and cultural needs were special meeting. The new limits are not accepted by the commission. 5105 males and 1339 females, a However, it agreed to allow a very reduction of 10.5 per cent on the 1977 limited and strictly controlled catch quota of 4320 males and 2880 females. for 1978 only. When the commission held its When the commission met in Tokyo annual meeting in Canberra earlier it agreed to introduce a regulation that last year it set precautionary interim for 1978 the hunting shall stop when 1978 limits of 763 females but no 18 Bering Sea bowhead whales have males, pending a further review by its been struck or 12 landed. The striking, members and the scientific committee. taking or killing of calves or any This was done to allow a speedy bowhead whale accompanied by a calf recovery of male stocks to the maxi is also forbidden. mum sustainable yield level. In addition the commission adopted As a result of objections from the a resolution which called on the Soviet Union and Japan the scientific United States to introduce strict committee was asked to review all the controls on the aboriginal hunt for evidence on the state of North Pacific bowheads. The whole question of sperm whale stocks. Its revised catch bowhead whale hunting will be re estimates were accepted by the comm viewed at this month's annual meet ission, and the quotas were increased, ing. the 16 nations represented voting 15-1 ANTARCTIC
POLAR MEDAL AWARDED TO SIX NEW ZEALANDERS
Six members of New Zealand expeditions to Antarctica have been awarded the Polar Medal for distinguished services in scientific research and exploration. Three are scientists — Drs P.J. Barrett, M.G. Laird, and A.T. Wilson; two, Major J.R.M. Barker (retd.) and Mr A.M. Bromley, have been station leaders; and the sixth, Mr J.H. Hoffman, has spent eight seasons in Antarctica, the first in 1956-57. The Polar Medal is awarded by the arctica,arctica, the the first first in in 1962-63 1962-63 as as a fieldfiel Queen from time to time, under the geologistgeologist with with the the University University of of MinnMinr terms of a Royal Warrant, in recog- esota.esota. Since Since then then he he hashas worked with wit nition of individual merit arising from thethe United United States States researchresearch programme, programmi enterprise and hardship, outstanding andand has has taken taken part part in in or or led led severe several personal contribution in exploration, Victoria Victoria University University of of Wellington Wellingto scientific research or general service expeditions.expeditions. In In the the 1974-75 1974-75 andand 197?1975- on polar expeditions. It was first 76 76 seasons seasons he he worked worked with with the the DrDry awarded for service on an Arctic ValleyValley Drilling Drilling Project, Project, an an interna internat expedition in 1818. The first medal ionalional programme programme conducted conducted by ththe with an Antarctic inscription was UnitedUnited States, States, New New Zealand, Zealand, an and awarded for service in Captain Scott's Japan Japan first expedition of 1901-04. Mr urnmipV.Mr Bromley, wnn who hPran began his his servir service Major Barker, of Christchurch, who with the New Zealand Meteorological was second-in-command of the 2nd Service in Christchurch, now works in Battalion, Royal New Zealand Infant Wellington. He went south first as a ry Regiment, when he first went south, meteorological observer in 1967-68 on served as deputy leader at Scott Base sub-Antarctic Campbell Island. Then in the 1970-71 summer. He was he went to the Antarctic for the 1968-69 seconded from the Army to the Depart summer, and worked at the newly- ment of Scientific and Industrial established Vanda Station in the Research in 1971 to serve as officer-in- Wright Valley. He remained at Vanda for the winter of 1970, and was station charge of the 1971-72 research pro leader and meteorological observer gramme, and wintered at Scott Base in 1972. there for the 1973-74 season, including the winter of 1974. Dr Barrett, director of the Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic SCOTT BASE research unit, is internationally Mr Hoffman, who is a drilling known as the geologist who discovered in 1967 the first land vertebrate fossil expert, has been with the Geophysics — part of the jawbone of a labyrinth- Division, D.S.I.R., for more than 30 years. He was a member of the odont amphibian — ever found in International Geophysical Year team Antarctica. He made his discovery at Scott Base in the 1956-57 summer while working with an Ohio State when the base was established. His University Institute of Polar Studies wide knowledge of drilling techniques team. enabled the Scott Base construction EIGHT SUMMERS team to master the problem of drilling 200 holes through permafrost to In the last 16 years Dr Barrett has anchor the buildings and secure the spent eight summer seasons in Ant guy wires of the radio antennae masts.
!^v" ANTARCTIC June,1978 In the 1957-58 summer Mr Hoffman in the Cambrian period 500 to 600 went back to Scott Base. He worked at million years ago. McMurdo Station for three months in the 1960-61 season, and again at Scott Dr Wilson, who is a geochemist, has Base in the 1962-63 season. Then he been director of the University of spent four more summers — 1972-73 to Waikato Antarctic research unit since 1975-76 as supervisor of the New it was established in 1971, buthe spent Zealand drilling team which did the the first of his eight seasons in drilling for the Dry Valley Drilling Antarctica with the 1961-62 Victoria Project. University of Wellington expedition. It consisted of himself and Dr H.W. Dr Laird, of Christchurch, who is Wellman, and they studied Lake district geologist with the New Zeal Vanda to discover the reason for the and Geological Survey, has led three surprising warmth of its bottom water. geological field parties in Victoria Land since he first went south in the WORK AT VOSTOK 1960-61 season. He was in the southern In the 1963-64 season Dr Wilson party, led by Captain P.J. Hunt, of a worked with the Victoria University topographical and geological survey expedition in the Taylor, Wright, and team which explored the coastal area Victoria Valleys, and spent a week at of Victoria Land s_
A J.S. Fry and Sons poster badly affected by the damp in Scott's hut at Cape Evans. In "Scott's Last Expedition" Teddy Evans lists Fry and Sons as one of the great English firms which supplied the expedition. "Messrs J.S. Fry and Sons supplied our cocoa, sledging and fancy chocolate — delicious comforts, excellently packed and always in good Condition." Photo by D.L. Harrowfield end of October, when the birds started to lay, collected about 2400 eggs for their winter supply. Joyce remained at Many of these items showed signs of deterioration, but another major matt Cape Royds until December to make a er of concern was dampness within the collection of Adelie and Emperor hut, possibly brought about by a penguins, skuas, petrels, and seals, change of climate within the structure but Gaze and Wild returned many since removal of ice in 1960-61. This weeks ahead of him. When he arrived at Cape Evans he found that all the dampness was especially evident a- long the southern wall where ice was party except Richards, who was ill, present along much of the wall up to had been sealing and had stocked a one metre above the floor. Outside huge supply for food and fuel. snow accumulation was level with the Two other venesta cases held food eave — most of the stores annexe was for dogs and men, probably of Scott's concealed. expedition. One contained Spratt's cod EFFECTS OF DAMP liver oil dog cakes, the other tins of Moir's roast veal and McDoddie's On the north side the dampness was dried vegetables. Other items included attributed by the caretakers to an a tin of Huntley and Palmer's biscuits, accumulation of ice in the stables. As a the frame of the bicycle ridden by one result of the dampness bed wires on of Scott's geologists, Griffith Taylor, bunks along the south wall had rusted with his name carved in the leather almost entirely away. This was prob saddle, a bundle of new Universal pick ably caused initially by the accumul heads, two linen ration bags, four grey ation of ice (before excavation) on the woollen socks, and a Burberry over bunks causing the wires to collapse. mmm mt ^^m ANTARCTIC June, 1978 Where the wires were partially When their successors started work intact they had, in some instances, they found that the area at the south become bonded to reindeer skin sleep east corner where the stables butt ing bags, mattresses, and textiles. As a against the main building had been result some clothing was severely refilled completely with snow during stained by rust and the fabric was last winter, two hours of excavation damaged. One example was a shirt were needed before it was possible to marked "Owen Gaze", left behind by examine the record the small blubber I.O. Gaze, of the Ross Sea Party, one of stove on which Oates and Anton the last two survivors, who died in Omelchenko, the Russian groom, pre April this year. pared hot mash for the ponies. In the previous season Messrs Burton and During the inventory a detailed Sutton-Pratt cleared the stove of ice examination was made of the various down to its base. structures and stores away from the main hut. A disintegrating New DISCOVERY HUT Zealand cheese case from a dairy company in Geraldine, and a quantity Last on the caretaker's itinerary of provisions, including Dutch canned was the Discovery hut on Hut Point vegetables, were removed from broken where only four days were spent. All venesta cases and transferred to the snow and ice deposits were removed galley. The cases were then filled with from within the hut, and a deposit of rocks and tidied up as much as snow extending most of the length of possible. the northern verandah from floor to ceiling was removed with willing GROUND UNDERMINED assistance from Peter de Jong, the Scout Association representative who worked at Scott Base last season. Because of their heavy programme the Pratt, expressed concern for the state of the ground surface immediately in caretakers were unable to attend to the front of the latrines, which was being false ceiling in the hut, which is in bad undermined by the movement of condition and needs urgent attention. visitors on the scoria slope as they Signs of deterioration in the historic circled the hut. Messrs Harrowfield material were also observed during the and Buckley also photographed and inventory at Hut Point. Although examined the area. They found that many parties have occupied the build the top of the slope was firm 30cm ing between 1902 and 1917, little below the surface, but considerably material remains. But the temporary disturbance was being caused by removal of selected items for proper many visitors (30 called in one day) preservation is also necessary. Before walking about the spot. The caretak they completed their work on January ers agreed with their predecessors' 11 the caretakers inspected the memor suggestion that about 50 bags (syn ial cross to George Vince, the seaman thetic fabric) of gravel should be who died at the beginning of Scott's placed on the slope, and visitors first expedition, and the better known should be advised to keep clear of the cross erected on Observation Hill in area. memory of Scott and his companions on the South Pole journey. Vince's Like their predecessors and previous cross is in good condition although caretakers, Messrs Harrowfield and slightly loose in the ground, and the Buckley found that the condition of the stables was not good. In the 1976- timber, which has been weathered mostly on the southern side, is in 77 season all seven stables were filled excellent condition considering that it with the snow and ice of two winters, is 76 years old. but Messrs Burton and Sutton-Pratt managed to remove nearly half of the There is nothing wrong with the Australian jarrah timber of the cross ANTARCTIC
on Observation Hill which has been displayed in the porch of the hut there since 1913. But four of the bronze advising visitors not to handle the bolts which hold together the vertical relics. Also, after bags of gravel are components of the cross are missing — placed on the slope in front of the three from the north side and one from latrines, visitors should be encourag the south. As a result a gap has opened ed to keep clear of the area, although between the laminations. this will be hard to do. A plaque with inscriptions in four Sections of the floor in the hut at Hut languages — English, French, Russ Point need replacement, particularly ian, and Spanish — is wired to the base in the room at the south-west corner of the cross. The caretakers suggest it where two mutton carcases are stored. could be better sited on sound flat rock The false ceiling also should be nearby. Two broken screws on the repaired. English plate need replacing because someone has tried to remove it. Although Vince's cross is deter iorating only gradually, the caretak As a result of their work on the three ers suggest it should be taken down huts Messrs Harrowfield and Buckley temporarily and treated with an recommend that urgent considerat epoxy compound containing a poly- ion should be given to the temporary amine hardener. This would not harm removal to New Zealand of certain the timber, and would not only deteriorating relics for conservation to emphasise the lettering of the inscript ensure their survival. They believe it ion, but also protect the engraving would be preferable if facsimiles only from further weathering. of manuscripts were returned to the hut at Cape Royds.
STABLE AREA Ice should be removed as soon as possible from the stable area at Cape Royds, particularly along the north wall of the hut. The caretakers say that excavation would not cause collapse of supply cases as they are firmly frozen to the ground. They suggest also that a notice should be prominently displayed in the porch of the hut advising visitors not to handle any relics. To eliminate dampness in the hut at Busy snow toads Cape Evans it is recommended that all Snow toads, blamed by American snow and ice needs to be removed from pilots for everything that went wrong the south wall and the stable area. during the early years of Antarctic Until this is done, gradual deteriorat operations, were busy in the March ion of the building, and rapid deterior issue of "Antarctic". They removed ation of material inside, will take the map to the back page of the cover, place. Snow will always tend to accum and put two pages in the wrong order. ulate along the south wall, but the problem can be controlled in the Worst of all was the picture caption stables area. After excavation the on Page 149, which put the Ross Ice stables could be sealed in the manner Shelf Project drill camp 6444km south outlined by Messrs Burton and Sutton- east of McMurdo Station. We missed Pratt. the extra figure added by a snow toad. In future we will try to keep the snow As at Cape Royds a notice should be toads and the errors from creeping in. rv m\
ANTARCTIC June,1978 FUTURE OF MAWSON'S HUT Sir Douglas Mawson's historic hut at Cape Denison, Common I ■ wealth Bay, may be restored at its present site where it has resisted the elements for more than 65 years. There have been moves in Australia to have the hut dismantled, brought back, and placed in a n A n t a r c t i c m u s e u m . , m , _ „ , _ When the Thala Dan called at Cape No decision on the future of the hut Denison Senator Devitt went ashore '£> ■ will be made, however, until the and visited the hut. He saw embedded Minister of Science (Senator James in the ice which almost filled it tins, Webster) has studied a report by an boxes, sledges, a deck chair, ice axes, Antarctic Division team which spent and a cake tin. six weeks at Cape Denison last __ ... ,, , .. . , ... summer to evaluate the structural Meanwhile, the half sledge which soundness of the hut, and study the Dawson dragged alone across the ice feasibility of its restoration. The team for 1701
SUB-ANTARCTIC Biological expedition to Macquarie Island By Donald S. Horning Marine and terrestrial studies were conducted at Macquarie Island during the 1977-78 summer season by four scientists sponsored by the Australian Museum, assisted by the Australian Antarctic Division. They made the most extensive marine biology survey at the island since Mawson's Australasian Antarctic Expedition, 1911-14. Highlights of the expedition included an extensive divining programme to survey the intertidal and shallow subtidal flora and fauna, and also the collection of microscopic invertebrates from terrestrial plants. The four scientists and their interests were: Dr Jim Lowry, marine biology (Australian Museum) who was the co- Victoria); Mr Rob Ricker, botany (University of Melbourne); and myself, marine biology and terrestrial ecology (Salem, Oregon). Reference: "Antarctic , March, 1978, Page 146). We arrived at Macquarie Island on more than half of our 84 man dives November 15 aboard the Danish ship before Christmas. Our first efforts Nella Dan and spent a day steaming were centred on collecting at the along the east coast because of extreme north end of the island around unsuitable landing conditions, it took Wireless Hill and the A.N.A.R.E. several days to unload equipment and station because of the diverse habitats to become familiar with the facilities and relative ease of getting equipment of the island before the diving pro to the dive sites. After Christmas, the gramme was underway. team worked from huts located south ward on the island. This necessitated Conditions for diving at Macquarie carrying 350 to 500 kg of diving Island were very good, considering the equipment, an air compressor, spare location of the island. The sea temper diving tanks, personal gear, and ature ranged between 4 and 7° C, and specimens distances of more than water visibility was more than 3m and 35km. Fortunately we were ably often up to 20m. Dives were made from assisted by willing station staff. rocky shores, sand and gravel beach es, and offshore from a 4m rubber dinghy. The surge was bothersome, Our first dive site on the southern even down to 2m depth, when collect trip was on the west coast at Bauer ing delicate specimens, but it was not Bay. Unfortunately, strong westerly too much of a handicap. Only 10 days seas limited us to intertidal and were lost to diving because of poor shallow subtidal collections. However, sea conditions. gear was carried to Sandy Bay, on the east coast, daily and these efforts Fine weather allowed us to complete resulted in several productive dives. ANTARCTIC
Royal penguins accompanied us on expedition, many newly recorded spec every dive here, even down to 15m ies of algae and invertebrates were depth. discovered. Large series of bottom Later, during foul weather condit dwelling fish were taken that prev ions, we moved the diving operations iously had been represented by only a to Green Gorge, midway down the east few specimens. side of the island. The weather co Brittle stars had previously been operated and many fine collections unknown here but we obtained speci were taken near this site. Diving mens from the north and south ends of amongst the Macrocystis algae beds the island. Additional species of sea and in heavy surge proved to be most slugs and sea spiders will be added to interesting. The weather was once the faunal list after they are identified again particularly bad when we by Australian and New Zealand moved to the southwest end of the scientists. Large collections of tuni- island at Caroline Cove. Equipment cates, bryozoans, hydroids, and spon was taken from Green Gorge for only ges also will add many species to those two divers because of the limited time already known from Macquarie Is left and the tremendous effort required land. to transport the gear. Amphipods and isopods were of Dr Horning, formerly a visiting re particular interest to Drs Lowry and search associate in the zoology depart Poore. Many species were taken from ment of the University of Canterbury, rocky subtidal habitats. However, we spent seven years in New Zealand. In did not have access to fine sand or mud that time he took part in two univers bottoms, where many more species ity expeditions to the Ross Depend occur. These "soft bottoms" are not ency, and made five expeditions to available near the shores of Macquar New Zealand's sub-Antarctic islands, ie Island, nor in depths that are four to the Snares Islands, and one to suitable for scuba diving. the Auckland Islands. The marine algae collections were particularly extensive, and again, Diving conditions were good during many newly recorded species were the latter part of the southern trip found. They were collected on differ because of the more uncommon easter ent substrates down to 20m depth. ly winds and seas which prevailed Collection information recorded inc while we were at Caroline Cove. Six luded data on substrate type, light dives were accomplished in the cove, conditions, degree of wave exposure, and the species of algae and animals associated algae species, and water were found there that had not been quality. The results gained from the seen on other dives. During this time, study of these algae collections will intertidal collections were taken from form the basis of a M.Sc. thesis for Mr Hurd Point, on the southeast corner of Ricker. the island, thus completing the island marine survey. Gear was again moved One interesting discovery was the back to Green Gorge during snow, Durvillea, or bull kelp, lives down to a sleet, rain, wind, and fog, and finally depth of at least 15m at Macquarie the equipment and collections were Island. This plant generally has been labouriously backpacked to the A.N.A- considered to be an intertidal zone R.E. station. alga in other Southern Hemisphere areas. This was the most extensive marine biology survey at Macquarie Island The terrestrial ecology programme since Mawson's Australasian Antarc was of particular interest to me. tic Expedition, 1911-1914. Because the However, because of unexpected com emphasis was directed toward the mitments to the marine biology pro subtidal zone during the 1977-1978 gramme, some projects had to be cur- June,1978 ANTARCTIC tailed. Terrestrial invertebrate collect one species of tardigrade had previous ions were generally limited to short ly been known from Macquarie Island, trips to specific localities, or en route to more than 15 species will be added to the diving sites. the faunal list based on the 1977-1978 The main emphasis of the pro expedition collections. A most interest ing group, Echiniscus, that is poorly gramme was a survey of the micro represented from other sub-antarctic scopic invertebrates, especially tardi islands and Antarctica, is abundant at grades or water bears. Marine inverte brates that may serve as hosts for Macquarie Island. tardigrades and interstitial samples The 1977-1978 expedition was a from ocean beaches and lakes on the great success because of the fine co plateau were sampled. Ecological operation from the Australian Antarc information was taken to help better tic Division, especially the A.N.A.R.E. understand the biology of these min station staff. Results from the various ute invertebrates at Macquarie Island. studies will help fill important gaps in the distribution of algae and inverte More than 200 samples of mosses, brates, and will provide additional lichens, and flowering plants were information for biogeographers in collected during the summer. This relating Macquarie Island marine project is a continuation of similar flora and fauna to that of other sub- studies in New Zealand and its off- antarctic areas as well as to the lying and sub-Antarctic islands, and Antarctic continent. the Ross Dependency. Though only BACK TO BALLOONS OVER ICE A New Zealand balloonist, Squad Scott ascended in a captive observat ron Leader Roland Parsons, Royal ion balloon. The inlet no longer exists New Zealand Air Force, plans to make so the ascent will be re-enacted by a three flights over Antarctica in a hot flight of about 213m over Hut Point. air balloon. The first would be from Scott Base to the Royal Society Range, Scott used the balloon — named the second a re-enactment of the first Eva, and the gift of an enthusiastic Antarctic balloon ascent by Scott on lady supporter of the expedition — for February 4, 1902, and third would Antarctic reconnaissance at the sugg trace the final routes of Scott and estion of Sir Joseph Hooker, who had Amundsen over the Polar Plateau to been with Ross in 1839-43. But only the South Pole. two ascents were made. On the first the balloon with Scott in the basket Squadron Leader Parsons has set no rose to 152m, and then shot up like a date for the flights as his project rocket when the observer hurled out all depends on sponsorship. He needs the sandbags. It was checked at just about $26,000, and will not start under 243m by the heavy wire rope planning until sponsorship has been tethering it to the ice. agreed upon. Since 1974 he has made several pioneer flights in New Zealand Shackleton became Antarctica's — the first crossing of the Southern first aerial photographer when he Alps (1974), the first crossing of Cook ascended to 243m with a camera and Strait (1975), and the first flight over took some good photographs. But that Mt Cook (3763m) in 1976. was Eva's last ascent. Other members of the expedition were promised asc To imitate Antarctica's first aero ents in the afternoon, but the balloon naut Squadron Leader Parsons does was found to be leaking badly. It was not intend to go to Balloon Inlet, the deflated, packed away in the Discov little bight in the Ross Ice Shelf where ery, and never used again.
iv-->* ■ \i ANTARCTIC
TOURISM More Antarctic cruises planned next season ?3b5EfJHBHI After a lapse of five years the Inaccessible Islands, and Tristan da Antarctic cruise ship Lindblad Ex Cunha where he joined the Lindblad plorer will make another visit to the Explorer for her Antarctic cruise. Ross Dependency early next year. The cruise, one of three to the Antarctic During January the Lindblad Ex next summer, is described as a circum plorer will make calls at Hope Bay, site of the Argentine Army base, Esper navigation of Antarctic from Argent anza, and King George Island where ina to New Zealand, but it will begin at J.1 C„..;„* D„i;„U ~~A Okilflnn x bases — Bellingshausen. Arctowski, Lyttelton after calls at Australian and New Zealand sub-Antarctic islands. and Presidente Eduard Frei. After a call at the old whaling station in Port In the 1973-74 season the Lindblad Lockroy, Wiencke Island, the ship will Explorer sailed south from Bluff, proceed to the United States Palmer calling at the Auckland Islands, Station on Anvers Island. Her last call Campbell Island, and Macquarie Is in the Antarctic Peninsula area will be land before proceeding to Robertson at Paradise Bay where there is an Bay and anchoring off Cape Adare. Argentine station, Almirante Brown. After steaming through heavy ice to She will sail from there on January 29. Cape Hallet, and then to Cape Bird, Ross Island, the ship spent three days In the first week of February the mWm^SSsmwMmm Ross Sea. She will arrive in McMurdo tourists were able to visit the historic C,.,,,, ,1 ,.„ T,\,U >.,,., v,- R a nrl tKo tmiridu t, will visit Scott Base the next day. They and meet New Zealanders who had ,.,411 nlon tAai* +Kq Kiofnric Vinto at Car\o LaV&llCU 11U1U "l-"l^ l_*t*UW UJ ""!-, Evans and Cape Royds on February 8. fledge and tracked vehicle. From McMurdo Sound the cruise continued From McMurdo Sound the ship will to the Antarctic Peninsula where the sail north to Cape Hallett where, tourists visited British, Argentinean, subject to ice conditions, a landing will Soviet and Chilean bases. be made at the joint United States- Next season the Lindblad Explorer New Zealand station in Moubray Bay, will sail first from Ushaia, the most which has been closed for several southern city in the world, on January years. Another landing will be made at 14 to the Falkland Islands (Islas Cape Adare if ice conditions are Malvinas) and call at West Point, favourable. Carcase, and New Islands. Her scient Depending on the weather landings ific staff will be led by Sir Peter Scott, will be made on some of the Balleny and will include Dr Nigel Wace, of the Islands, which straddle the Antarctic Australian National University, Can Circle. There have been few landings berra, and an Australian naturalist, in the last 137 years. The most recent Mr Michael McDowell. Dr Wace is the were by members of the Oceanic author, with Dr Martin Holdgate, of a Research Foundation's expedition led study of the Tristan da Cunha-Gough by Dr David Lewis in January this Island group. He went to Gough Island year. in the South African supply ship RSA in October, 1976, worked his way north From the Ballenys the Lindblad in fishing vessels to Nightingale and Explorer will sail to Macquarie Island Med
June, 1978 ANTARCTIC
where the tourists will remain for two from Australia to Cape Adare and the days. The ship will arrive at Campbell sub-Antarctic islands. The promoter is Island on February 18, and the next Mr Dick Smith, owner of an electronics day the tourists will go ashore on firm in Sydney, who arranged the first Enderby Island, one of the Auckland charters with Qantas for day trips to Islands. On February 22 the ship will Antarctica. He hopes to offer a cruise arrive at Lyttelton. of three weeks for about $1450. On February 25 the Lindblad Ex Mr Smith's cruises would include plorer will sail for Picton. After calls at visits to Stewart Island, Macquarie Golden Bay, Kapiti Island, and New Island, the Auckland Islands, and Plymouth, she will leave for Norfolk Cape Adare. He is negotiating to Island on the first leg of a Pacific charter the cruise ship Marco Polo for cruise. the first cruise early in 1979. Passeng ers would go ashore from the ship in Because Campbell Island and the inflatable rubber boats. Auckland Islands are flora and fauna reserves a wildlife ranger for the Lands and Survey Department will accompany the tourists on their visits. The ranger will be Mr B.N. Norris, of Climbers lost at Christchurch, who was on the Lind blad Explorer's last sub-Antarctic and Antarctic cruise from New Zealand in After a full-scale air and sea search 1973-74. Mr Norris will join the ship at of Smith Island in the South Shet McMurdo Station, and will escort the lands by H.M.S. Endurance, the Royal tourists on their visits to the historic Navy's Antarctic ice patrol ship, eight huts on behalf of the Antarctic members of a privately-financed Brit Division, Department of Scientific and ish climbing expedition are believed to Industrial Research. have been lost at sea. There has been no news of the expedition since it When the ship calls at Cape Adare sailed from Rio de Janeiro for the Falk Mr Norris hopes to be able to mark the land Islands (Islas Malvinas) on Nov- grave of Nicolai Hanson, zoologist with Borchgrevink's Southern Cross Expedition in 1899, who was the first man to be buried on the continent. The Late in February the expedition's grave, high on Cape Adare, is one of ship En Avant, a 35-year-old convert the historic places in Antarctica for ed Dutch tug, was reported overdue on which New Zealand is responsible the voyage to Smith Island where the under the Antarctic Treaty. climbers planned ascents of three Four bronze plaques provided by the peaks. Among those on board was Major H.W. Tilman, the noted British Antarctic Division were erected out- „;j_ D 1 •_!_>_ 1 , «. 11 Beach when the Lindblad Explorer last called. These outline the history of When the Endurance made her the building in English, French, search of Smith Island particular Spanish, and Russian. Similar plaq attention was paid to Cape Smith, the ues were provided for Hanson's grave, northern extremity of the island, but Mr Norris and Mr Keith Shackle where the seaward approached are ton, a member of the ship's scientific marked by consistently rough water. staff, did not have sufficient time to An independent search was also made place them in position. The plaques recently by the Argentine Navy. A were left on Ridley Beach when the ship visited Deception Island, 67km Lindblad Explorer sailed. westward of Smith Island, which the expedition leader, Simon Richardson, Next summer there may be cruises had planned to visit. ■"pi L.^ 'rJlTd'-'-T.^lt*/^!. • v^ftfti*£r ANTARCTIC THE READER WRITES Sidelights of Antarctic Research Sir, — The huts which Scott and in McMurdo Sound? Did they visit Shackleton built on Ross Island have Shackleton's hut? And did Captain been there long enough to be the Kaldager ever make a report on his subject of legends. One which has visit? The answers to these questions almost achieved historical respect might be hidden away in old whaling ability in the last 20 years is that the records. They might give us something huts were left to the mercy of the more substantial than a legend. blizzards for 30 years, and the pen Yours etc. guins saw no human visitors until "JAMES PIGG" 1947 and 1948. Visits by American in 1947 and 1948 Rescue after are not legends. They were reported, and there is photographic evidence of 73 days them. But the legend of who came after Scott and Shackleton's men does not A 36-year-old Italian yachtsman, Ambrogio Fogar, who planned to aglCC WJl.ll LUG Mil I.."". J. 1IC1C YTCIC 1IH II in McMurdo Sound earlier than 1947. circumnavigate Antarctica in his 11m sloop Spirit of Surprise, and winter at On January 17, 1917, the Aurora McMurdo Station, was rescued on sailed for New Zealand with the April 2 from a life-raft after drifting for survivors of Shackleton's Ross Sea 73 days in the Atlantic. His yacht sank Party, and, according to the legend, on January 19 off the Falkland men did not return until late February, Islands (Islas Malvinas) after a collis 1947. The icebreaker Burton Island ion with a school of whales. entered McMurdo Sound and reached With Mr Fogar on the raft was Mario Cape Evans. A small boat party went ashore on February 20 and examined Scott's hut, and in the afternoon two April 5 as a result of his privations visits were made by helicopter to the after the two men had been picked up old Discovery hut on Hut Point. by the Greek freighter Master Stefan- Then, in 1948, men of the United os 1120km east of Buenos Aires. The States Navy visited the old huts again, ship, bound for Cape Town, diverted to this time by helicopter from the Montevideo so Mr Mancini could icebreaker Edisto. Two photographers receive treatment, but he died before went to the hut at Cape Royds on she reached port. January 29. Short-wave radio operators in Italy But the penguins and the seals had and Chile lost contact with the Spirit visitors only seven years after the of Surprise late in January. She sailed departure of the Aurora. In the 1923— south from Mar del Plata on January 24 whaling season the Sir James Clark 6. When the yacht sank Messrs Fogar Ross, accompanied by five chasers, and Mancini boarded the life-raft, operated in the Ross Sea, using which then drifted 2000 km with the Discovery Inlet as a base. north-east Falklands Current. On January 29, 1924, the chaser, A search for the yacht was launched Star I (Captain Alf Kaldager) entered by the Argentine Navy. It was McMurdo Sound as far as Cape Royds. abandoned on March 26 after ships She then followed the coast of Victoria and aircraft had covered more than Land to Cape Adare. one million square kilometres of ocean How long did the Norwegians stay in six weeks. ANTARCTIC OBITUARY "Jimmy" Gaze, Ross Sea Party survivor One of the last two survivors of probably the most tragic and least known episode in Antarctic history died near Melbourne on April 22 after a long illness. He was 88-year-old Irvine Owen Gaze, one of 10 men in the Ross Sea Party of Shackleton's Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition (1914-17), who were marooned without warning on Ross Island for 20 months, and endured two bitter Antarctic winters without fresh stores, fuel or changes of clothing. When the Aurora brought the seven his crossing team coming from the survivors of the party back to New otherother side side of of the the continent. Zealand early in 1917 the First World „ . ., . - ., , , War had been in progress for more . But But the thfQ plan P1™ failed £** because on than two years. A world concernedJanuary J«»W 19, »• 1915, ^915'ffteSrn2Snq« the Endurance was 5J with battles, mounting casualties, caughtincaughtin the the ice ice ofthe ofthe Weddell Weddell SeaSea. ByBy a tragic coincidence the Aurora, which hipping losses, and air raids, had a tragicwas being coincidence prepared the for Aurora wintering which in ous. boat journey across stormy seas to McMurdo Sound, was blown out to sea on the night of May 6-7, 1915, trapped South Georgia, and the rescue of his in tho nor-lr ino nnH tVipn r\r\fte>c\ hplr men from Elephant Island. But there was only passing recognition of the lessly for nearly a year. She broki heroism and devotion to duty of the on February 12,1916, but did men who made one of the most notable Port Chalmers until April 3. polar journeys in history. There are few written records of the fortunes and misfortunes of the Ross Sea Party. Shackleton outlined the tragic sequence of events in "South", but the desperate efforts of the Ross Sea Party to lay the food depots they believed would be vital to their leader's crossing of the continent took a minor place beside the exciting story of the main party in the Imperial Trans- Antarctic Expedition. When Shackleton planned his Imp erial Trans-Antarctic Expedition the purpose was to make a trans-contin ental journey from the Weddell Sea to the Ross Sea, a distance of about 2896km. The task of the Ross Sea Party was to proceed in the Aurora to McMurdo Sound, and then lay food and fuel depots every 96km as far south as the Beardmore Glacier at Back at Cape Evans "Jimmy" Gaze 83deg 37min S. It was expected that and his companions were cut off from the party would meet Shackleton and the world, and knew nothing of the ANTARCTIC
fate of either ship. But nothing Spencer-Smith died on March 9,1916, stopped them from completing their having been drawn on the sledge by allotted task, although it cost the lives his friends for some 480km. The party of three men. The depots were laid by was then 32km short of Hut Point and man-hauling heavily-laden sledges, safety. and the men, living on short rations, faced blizzards, appalling snow and Joyce, the tough and experienced ice conditions, and temperatures of veteran of the Discovery and Nimrod 60deg below zero. All, in the final expeditions, Richards, and Ernest stages, suffered severely from scurvy, Wild, struggled on with the scurvy- frostbite, and snowblindness. stricken Mackintosh and V.G. Hay- ward, and reached the safety of Hut FIRST JOURNEYS Point on March 18. The two sick men recovered, but after two months of To lay the depots as planned spartan living at Hut Point they involved a series of sledging journeys. disappeared on May 8 when they The first was in the autumn of 1915 attempted to reach Cape Evans over during which depots were established the still insecure sea ice. at Minna Bluff and at 80deg S. Then came the spring journeys of 1915-16 to Although Gaze did not participate in reinforce the Bluff depot with stores to the last stages of the third sledge be carried southward on the third and journey, he shared in all the others, greatest journey in 1916 to lay depots and was highly regarded as a sledger at81deg, 82deg,and on Mt. Hope at the by Joyce, who took him on the first of foot of the Beardmore Glacier (83deg the autumn journeys. In "The South 33min S). Polar Trail" Joyce notes in his log of the journey from Hut Point to Minna "Jimmy" Gaze was one of nine men Bluff: "Gaze and Jack have settled who set out from Hut Point in the down to sledging conditions, and they summer of 1916 with four dogs and two are two splendid mates and an excell sledges on the third and greatestof the ent sample of Australians". sledging journeys. They left on Decem ber 13, and 24 days later at 80deg S THREE AUSTRALIANS Gaze and two others were instructed to return to Hut Point because one ofthe Gaze joined the Ross Sea Party in Primus lamps essential for the pre December, 1914, when the Aurora was paration of food was wearing out. indockatSydney for overhaul. He was then 24, and was one of three young While Gaze and his companions Australians added to the shore party; were on their way back, the remain-ing the others were Richards and A.K. six men continued the march south. In Jack. Gaze, who joined the expedition due course the first two depots were at Spencer-Smith's suggestion, was laid, but with only 48km to go to Mt. engaged as a general assistant but Hope Gaze's cousin, the Rev. A.P. became commissariat officer in charge Spencer-Smith, collapsed with scurvy. of the food supplies. He insisted that the others should press on, and he remained alone in a When the Aurora reached McMurdo tent on the Ross Ice Shelf. Sound and anchored off Cape Evans on January 16,1915, Gaze had his first DEATH ON MARCH experience ofthe dangers of travelling on sea ice. He was with a party which After 148 days of sledging from Hut made a night trip over the sea ice to Point the five men reached Mt. Hope Hut Point on January 18. The ice was and laid the depot. Then they turned cracked and ready to go out, Gaze and northward and began the dreadful two others went through it into the march to Hut Point, which was 595km water, and arrived at the Discovery away. Six days later they picked up hut in the early hours of January 19 Spencer-Smith, and struggled on. practically frozen. A blizzard confined June, 1978 ANTARCTIC the party to the hut until January 21 Four men were left in the hutat Cape when the six men returned to the ship. Evans, knowing that they might well be marooned for two years. They had Because Shackleton wanted a depot laid at 80deg S in case he was able to food left behind by Scott's last expedit make the crossing as soon as he ion, but no fuel, and only the clothing they were wearing. Of greater concern reached the Weddell Sea, two parties, was their lack of knowledge of the six each with a heavily-loaded sledge and men who had been sledging in the nine dogs, headed south towards the end of January. First away were Joyce south, and who had been unable to get and the two Australians, Gaze and back to Cape Evans before the winter Jack. They arrived off Minna Bluff on closed in. February 9, and were joined by But under the leadership of Stevens Mackintosh, Wild, and Spencer-Smith the four men faced their situation with on February 11. Five dogs died on the courage. They started a scientific prog way, being used too early for heavy ramme, went hunting for seals to sledging after their sea voyage. obtain the precious blubber, and searched frequently for provisions AURORA'S STORY hidden in snow drifts. Their hearts were lightened when Mackintosh, Mackintosh, Joyce and Wild pushed Joyce, J.L. Cope, Jack and Hayward on from Minna Bluff with the nine reached the hut on June 2. stronger dogs, and Gaze, Spencer- Smith and Jack were sent back with Quickly the 10 men settled down to a the four poorest dogs. Gaze's party regular winter routine. Then as spring reached Hut Point safely on February approached they began to prepare for 22, and it was decided that he and the vitally important depot-laying. Spencer-Smith should return to the The first journey to Hut Point was Aurora with the four dogs. But they made on September 1. During the were held up at Hut Point until second on September 6 Gaze sustained collected by the ship on March 11. a badly frost-bitten heel, and had to be carried all the way back on the sledge What happened to the Aurora while pulled by the four remaining useful six men were sledging or stranded in dogs. the Discovery hut can be summarised. After strenuous efforts to find shelter Because of his injury Gaze was from tearing winds and frequent temporarily replaced by Stevens when blizzards in McMurdo Sound where the actual depot-laying journeys be the ice from Hut Point to Cape Evans gan on October 1, and remained at was constantly moving, J.R. Sten Cape Evans to take the weather house, who had taken over command observations and care for the dogs. ofthe Aurora, finally moored the ship But he rejoined the field party, and for the winter off Cape Evans on took part in most of the arduous March 14. A.O. Stevens, chief scient sledging journeys from Hut Point to ist, Spencer-Smith, Richards, and stock Minna Bluff in preparation for Gaze, were landed, and took up their the southern march to Mt. Hope, quarters in Scott's hut to make routine which was begun on December 13. observations. When Gaze returned to Cape Evans In spite of a blizzard from April 10 to on January 16, 1916, he and his 12 which caused two of the stern companions, Stevens, Cope, and Jack, hawsers to part the Aurora remained faced another grim winter, and the firmly secured. But on the night of strain of not knowing what had May 6-7 the worst happened, the happened to Mackintosh and his men. Aurora, locked in the pack ice, broke The strain was too much for Cope, and away from her moorings and was he was not normal for some time. Not driven northward in a raging three- until July 15 when the barking ofthe day blizzard. dogs announced the arrival of a sledge I •>;v1^. ANTARCTIC party did the hut party learn from On their journey north from Hut Joyce, Richards, and Wild, how Mack Point to Cape Evans, which they intosh, Hayward, and Spencer-Smith, reached on January 3,1917, the three had died. men made a search for Mackintosh and Hayward, but found no trace. Seven men were left to continue their They had been back in the hut for a second winter, and face the possibility week when "the weary months of hard of a third. Only five were fit enough to work, disappointment, deprivation, carry on the essential task of killing and tragedy" which all had endured, seals because Richards collapsed, ended on January 10. Richards went having strained his heart, and Cope outside after breakfast and saw the was called on to nurse him back to Aurora lying off the Barne Glacier health. away to the north-west. When the sun returned in August the men were able to travel further afield. A week later the Aurora turned The everlasting hunt for seals contin northwards again to take the seven ued, and at the end ofthe month Gaze men back to New Zealand. They were went with Joyce and Jack to Shackle warmly received when the ship reach ton's old hut at Cape Royds to look for ed Wellington on February 9, but their stores. They returned with welcome story was quickly forgotten by a world finds — a large case of matches, and still at war. This did not concern Gaze. cases of salmon, haddock, and butter, Despite all he had endured he, like all in good condition after eight years. others in Shackleton's expedition, was eager to play his part in a war of which Late in September Joyce went by he had heard nothing for more than 20 dog team with Wild and Gaze to the years. penguin rookery at Cape Royds. He remained there December to make a Gaze and the rest of the party zoological collection of Emperor and returned to Australia. Then he went on Adelie penguins, seals, skuas, and to England and Shackleton helped petrels. In October before Gaze and him to join the Royal Flying Corps. He Wild returned to Cape Evans the three served as a pilot until the armistice, men collected about 2400 Adelie eggs and towards the end was shot down for their winter supplies. twice in 11 days. After the war Gaze returned to CROSS ERECTED Australia where he was an executive with a boot and shoe firm. Later he When Joyce returned he found that farmed in the western region of all the party except Richards had been Victoria, and finally retired to live sealing, and had stocked a huge near Melbourne. supply for food and fuel. Then he Sixty years after the Aurora return prepared for another journey south ed to rescue the survivors of the Ross with Wild and Gaze to erect a cross Sea Party the New Zealand Antarctic over Spencer-Smith's grave about Society brought Gaze to Christchurch as one ofthe guests of honour when the been dumped about 80 km south ofthe m»i»u^>i«i»T3ira»i bury Museum's new centennial wing point. of which the National Antarctic Later in December the party trekked Centre is the heart. There he took his south with eight dogs. Earlier Gaze place of honour with William Burton, and Jack had made a cross out of some one of the last survivors of the crew of hard wood found around the hut, and the Terra Nova, Sir Vivian Fuchs, who carved on it a simple tribute to achieved what Shackleton had tried to Spencer-Smith: "A brave man". On do more than 40 years earlier, and Sir the fourth day out this cross was Edmund Hillary, leader of a more erected on a cairn over the grave. fortunate Ross Sea party. Please disregard all references to subscriptions on this page. The figures quoted are out of date.
is published quarterly in March. June. September, and December. It is the only periodical in the world which gives regular up-to-date news of the Antarctic activities of all the nations at work in far south. It has a world wide circulation. Yearly subscription NZ$4.50. Overseas NZ$5.50, includes postage (airmail postage extra), single copies $1.00. Details of back issues available, maybe obtained from the Secretary. New Zealand Antarctic Society (Inc.). P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch. New Zealand. Back issues more than five years old are $1.50. Discount of 10 per cent for 20 or more copies. Overseas subscribers are asked to ensure that their remittances are converted to New Zealand currency.
NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY (INC.)
The New Zealand Antarctic Society was formed in 1933. It comprises New Zealanders and overseas friends, many of whom have seen Antarctica for themselves, and all of whom are vitally interested in some phase of Antarc tic exploration, development, or research. The society has taken an active part in restoring and maintaining the historic huts in the Ross Dependancy, and has been involved in the establishment of a national Antarctic centre at the Canterbury Museum, Christchurch. There are two branches of the society and functions are arranged through out the year. You are invited to become a member. South Island residents should write to the Canterbury secretary. North Islanders should write to the Wellington secretary, and overseas residents to the secretary of the New Zealand Society. For address, see below. The yearly membership fee is NZ$3.00 (or equivalent local currency). Membership fee, overseas and local, including "•Antarctic". NZ$6.50.
New Zealand Secretary ■ i P.O. Box 1223, Christchurch Branch Secretaries Canterbury: P.O. Box 404. Christchurch. Wellington: P.O. Box 2110, Wellington. I '**'?*(-f-'/\ ^mm ^m **