A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are shown in the text with mouse-hover popups. Preface, Itineraries and List of Maps (separate file) Paris to Marseilles (separate file) The Riviera: Itineraries The Riviera: Maps The Riviera: Text Italy and the Alps and General Index (separate file) ITINERARY (pages 107–280) THE RIVIERA. The Riviera. Hotels, productions, climate 107 Marseilles. Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111 MARSEILLES to MENTON. The French Riviera 122 Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie (pp. 124 and 129). Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128). Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and Pierrefeu (p. 130). Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or (pp. 124, 131). The Iles d’Or. Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131 Toulon to Hyères 132 Hyères. Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate 133 Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141); to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144). La Pauline. Diligence and train to Hyères 142 Carnoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142 Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure mountains 144 Les Arcs to Draguignan by rail. From Draguignan diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other diligences 145 Cannes to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p. 154), to Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), to Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152). Grasse to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166). Nice to St. Martin Lantosque by coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180 Nice to Puget-Theniers and Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165). 182 Nice to Cuneo by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182 Savona to Turin by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183 Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse—a pleasant walk 185 Monte Carlo to Nice by the coast-road 189 Monaco to La Turbie and the Tête de Chien 191 MENTON to GENOA—the western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200 Bordighera, up the valley of the Nervia, to Pigna 201 San Remo to Monte Bignone 205 GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN—the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante 219 Avenza to Carrara by rail—a very easy and interesting excursion 222 Pisa to Florence by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p. 199) 227 Pisa to Florence by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227 Lucca to the Baths of Lucca 230 Florence to Vallombrosa 277 Genoa to Turin by Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey 279 END OF THE RIVIERA. MAPS AND PLANS (pages 107–280) PAGE Cannes, Environs of 155 Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes. Cannes, Plan of 149 Corniche Road 185 Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway. This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco, and Menton. Estérel Mountains, or Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes 146 Florence, Plan of 234 The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza Michelangiolo. Galleria degli Uffizi 237 The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini. Genoa, Plan of 214 Hyères, Environs of 129 As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the environs of both towns are given on the same map. Italian Riviera, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn 199 Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.” Leghorn, Plan of 226 Marseilles, Plan of 113 Marseilles to Cannes 123 This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which the largest is Porquerolles. Nice, Plan of 171 Pisa, Plan of 224 The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station. Savona to Rapallo 211 Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo. The Durance to the Var and San Remo 163 This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy. The Italian Riviera or north-west Italy, including the railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200 Thermometer, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107 Toulon, Environs of 129 This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small steamers sailing from the port. 107 THE RIVIERA. HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE. The Riviera is a strip of land extending 323 miles along the coast of the Mediterranean at the foot of the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots. It is usually divided into two portions—the Riviera from Hyères to Genoa, 203 miles long; and the Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles long. Temperature. The milder and more frequented of the two is the former—the Western Riviera—which has been subjected to most careful and minute meteorological observations, and the various stations classified according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203 miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity being more often accidental and social—such as the people met with, the lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little things which exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and well-being of the mind and body than the mere fractional difference of temperature. None of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are sufficiently high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds when the higher mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges have deep indentations through which the cold air, as well as the streams, descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold winds, and all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against them—the more 108 sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous Mistral, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera feels like a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean winter temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères, considered the coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of San Remo, considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are December and January. With February the temperature commences to rise progressively. Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is the rule, cloudy and wet weather the exception. Vegetation. “In December wild flowers are rare till after Christmas, when the long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, and the violet make their appearance. These by the end of January have become abundant, and are quickly followed in February by crocuses, primroses, and pretty blue hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are springing up in the olive- woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones.