GRAND CANYON

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK. ARIZONA COME WITH NATURE ON AN ADVENTURE IN TIME AND SPACE

Silence, space, and color-these command at Grand Canyon. Its vastness swallows sound. Any motion against this enormous backdrop, except that of cloud shadows, passes unnoticed. And its sea of colors, ever-changing, spreads the immensity with incredible beauty. Equally grandiose here is the dimension of time. It took 7 million years for the Colorado River, with further sculpturing by rain and melting snow, to carve this chasm in the gradually rising crust of the earth ... a record reaching nearly to the earth's be­ ginning. The river, entering the park on the east from the Painted Desert, follow~ a winding course for 105 miles through Grand Canyon National Park. The park spans nearly 50 air miles from east to west and about 25 miles from north to south. Its total area comprises 1,100 square miles. The park's most important dimension, however, is altitude. The 7,000-foot range in elevation makes it possible for a ther­ mometer at the bottom of the canyon to register 50°F. while ·a snowstorm rages on the rims. It causes a progression of climate, with attendant changes in plant and animal life, from that of a Mexican desert at the canyon bottom to that of southern Canada ' at the North Rim. Thus, much will be missed if one confines his exploring to the rims. Even with a day or two, take one of the shorter mule trips, or a brief hike, into the canyon on the , Bright Angel or Kaibab Trail. Looking into the canyon is one kind of thrill. Looking out of it is an entirely different experience. I'

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Yavapal MuHum Park Ranger Talks The Story of Grand Canyon Lookout Photo Studio

HEAD OF BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL

Amphltheater ,..-,

VIiiage

GRAND CANY

PART I The So uth Rim of Grand Canyon is Grand Canyon Village, center of South are famous. Often, far below you to Getting to Know the South Rim Lipan Point, which many people think on a flat, pine-forested plateau. About Rim development, roads stretch east the west, the brilliant afterglow reflects offers the most exciting view of all. id 7,000 feet above sea level, it looks and west along the rim. The West Rim Drive leads 8 miles from the surface of the Colorado The river winds far below you, and, across to the higher North Rim, which Trails provide a more intimate look from the village to Hermit's Rest, pass­ River. on the southern horizon, behind you, geologically is part of the same at the canyon. Kaibab Trail, starting ing excellent lookouts on the way. You The East Rim Drive leads from the the San Francisco Peaks reach high tot plateau. Relatively mild winters and from Yaki Point, and Bright Angel will find it a good trip any time of village to Desert View. You may want into the sky. The visitor center, greater accessibility make the South Trail, starting near Bright Angel day, but it is particularly enjoyable at to visit the \Vatchtower, which perches Yavapai Museum, and Tusayan i\fu­ r===-==..:....:.=.::;::.::_:2:~i!':,!:L:.!.!::!:~=t:~~~~e_~ m~ore visited side. From Lodge, descend to the river. dusk, for the sunsets from Hopi Point on the rim there. On the way, stop at seum are al50 on this drive.

E Ar,z. o~ r 1 - <:t n.w-,..c I or,:> ,IT Of l,(SYt 2 JC/(,~ • I LI AR 'J_ 1,1- t"' .~L-> t Rr-r.F1vi=n OCT 1 9 1965 The Phantom Ranch Trip is a 2-day adventure and one of the major attrac­ tions. You reach Phantom Ranch by way of the inner gorge and an hour's ride along the river. Then you cross the suspension bridge, continuing about 1 mile farther to the ranch. A mule party approaches Indian Gardens, half• way down the Bright Angel Trail. You arrive before evening to find a swimming pool and a meal awaiting Bus tours make the West Rim Drive you. The next morning, you start the (Left) At the foot of Bright _Angel Trail, a placid Emergency service-a guide and mule Shadows etch canyon forms in view from West in the morning, the East Rim Drive in return trip, by a different but equa1ly 1 Rim Drive. stretch of the Colorado belies the river s power. sent down from either rim-is $35 for the afternoon. colorful route. Somewhat faster than (Above) Observation area on South Rim opens yet another view of the canyon's sweep and color. a ride out from Phantom Ranch, $40 Visiting the Havasupai The West Rim Trail follows the edge the trip down, it brings you to the after 4 p.m.; and $20 to $25, depend· A trip to the Havasupai Indian Res­ of the canyon for a mile from the South Rim at Yaki Point in time for ing on location, from other parts of ervation in Havasu Canyon, deep in hotel to Maricopa Point. It is an easy lunch. A word of reassurance about the Bright Angel Trail fo11ows a tw1stmg the trail. Being a "drag-out" is expen· the westernmost end of the park, is a Dusted with snow, Mather Point shines in the walk. mules. Before they are a11owed to carry 8-mile course from the South Rim to sive. rugged but memorable experience. sun as storm moves on toward the North Rim. Canyon Rim Nature Trail, I½ miles people, they undergo a long appren­ the river. The 9-mile round trip to Trail telephones, for emergency use Reservations must be made in ad­ long, leads from the hotel to the visitor ticeship. The wrangler in charge con­ Indian Gardens is a good day's hike only, are located on the Bright Angel vance by telephoning or writing the center and Yavapai Museum. Part of siders each member before he assigns for the sturdiest. and Kaibab Trails. Tourist Manager, Havasupai Tourist this trail, from the visitor center to the Enterprise, Supai, Ariz. At your him a mule, and he places the animal The River Trail, 2½ miles long, con­ The Naturalist Program hotel, is self-guiding. It is best to Water is available, in summer only, in the string with great care. nects the Bright Angel and Kaibab request, he will send someone to meet The visitor center is at the eastern arrange your arrival at Yavapai Mu­ on the Bright Angel Trail at two you at Hualpai Hilltop for the trip Going on Foot can be rugged. Un­ Trails. edge of the village. Take time to see seum in time for an interpretive talk. points between the South Rim and into the canyon. less you are very certain of your the exhibits early in yo"ur stay. Four Indian Gardens. From there to the It is 143 miles by car from the South Horseback trips, available only in stamina, do not hike to the river. A South Kaibab Trail leads 7 miles to sections-geology, biology, Indians, and river, the hottest part of the trip, none Rim (Grand Canyon Village) to a summer, take you through the pine canyon trip is the reverse of mountain the river from the rim at Yaki Point. history-describe the canyon's origin; is available, so be sure to carry a can­ point 5 miles east of Peach Springs, forests that cover the South Rim. climbing. The uphill grind comes at The hike to Cedar Ridge, 1 ½ miles the fossil record of ancient life; effects teen. Ariz., on U.S. 66, thence 62 miles north the end, not at the beginning when down the trail, is a good half-day out­ of the canyon on climate, plants, and Camping below the rims can be a to Hua) pai Hilltop. The last 30 miles Exploring the Canyon you are fresh. The climb out means an ing. The South Kaibab Trail, steeper animals; and how it has been explored. than Bright Angel Trail, is recom­ rewarding experience if well planned. are rough, but passable. Leaving your Going by Muleb.ack is one way to ascent of nearly 5,000 feet. Even if you mended for the downward, rather than But be sure to burn or carry out your automobile at the rim, you ride an Yavap.ai Museum, I mile east of the see the river and view the canyon from are an experienced hiker, allow your­ the return, trip. There is no water trash. Indian pony or hike the 8 miles to visitor center, features geological ex­ below. You should reserve your mule self plenty of time. Carry an adequate on this trail. Whatever your route, Supai. hibits and talks by park naturalists. we11 before your arrival at the park. supply of water. A gallon a day per Trail shortcutting and rock-rolling allow ample time to return to the rim The Supai serve no meals; so you Tusayan Ruin and Museum, near Water is provided. Persons over 200 person is recommended. Wear a hat are strictly forbidden. They may cause before dark. Hikers can be accommo­ must prepare to camp or to cook your Lipan Point, contains exhibits about pounds and children under 12 cannot and a long-sleeved shirt. Canyon tem­ landslides, endangering others on the dated at Phantom Ranch if advance own food at the tourist lodge, or the the early human history of the canyon take the mule trips. peratures may rise as high as 124°F. in trail as well as yourself. Watch for summer. Heat exhaustion is common. reservations are made. mule parties, and stand still on the dormitory, which are operated by the area and the ruins of Tusayan pueblo, The Plateau Point Trip takes you Havasupai Tribe. Some groceries can built about A.D. 1185. Museum is Hikers are therefore cautioned to ob· North Kaibab Trail, which joins the outside of the trail until they have onto the Tonto Plateau, about 3,200 tain the "Hiker Information Bulletin" South Kaibab Trail at the river, com­ passed. be purchased in the tribal store. open only in summer. feet below the rim. From the point of at any ranger station before a canyon pletes the cross-canyon link to the Illustrated talks are given every the plateau, you view the river in the If you hike into the reservation, a hike. Hiking conditions are best in North Rim. The trail crosses Bright summer evening at the amphitheater In case of accident, notify the chief fee of $1 is charged. Camping is free depths of the inner canyon. Trip spring and autumn when weather is Angel Creek at many points-some near the visitor ·center. Subjects vary park ranger's office. in the National Park Service camp· takes 7 hours. mild on the rims and within the can· without bridges-so be cautious when from day to clay and deal with human ground. No firewood is available, so The River Trip is somewhat longer yon. Anyone planning to use trails not the water is high. If in doubt, do not Scenic flights over the canyon are history, natural history, geology, and you must furnish your own fuel and than the Plateau Point Trip and takes described in this folder must get a try to cross. There are four camp­ provided by Grand Canyon Airlines the seasons. stove. Load limit for packhorses is you to the river's edge. Trip available permit from the district ranger's office grounds on this trail between Phantom in summer. l\!ake arrangements at the 150 pounds. See bulletin boards for schedules. from March through October. at the visitor center. Ranch and the North Rim. airport south of the park.

3 4 GRAND CANYON Seasons on the South Rim GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL MONUMENT ARIZONA N ;\s roads on the South Rim remain open all year, tra\'elers can enjoy the Compground Paved Rood Ranger Station Gravel Raad r.anyon i11 any season. On the rim, a Dirt Road Canyon Rim sweater or coat is comfortable the Primlti¥e Road Pork Boundary y('ar round. And bring a raincoat­ Trail jmt in case. Spring, heralded by flowers, is fol­ SCALE IN MILES lowed quickly by summer. From .June into September. temperatures range from the mid-forties at night to the mid-eighties in the daytime; the rela­ tive humidity is generally low. It sel clom rains in .Ju11c. but brief thunclcr­ r' storms are frequent in July and Au­ ,!!;USL In the canyon. midsummer tem­ I peratures reach I 00° to l 20°F. \utumn is a short .,easou here, for summer is soon followed by the crisp. dear clays of the South Rim winter. Snow may first fall in October or No­ vember. From November to April. temperatures arc likely to drop below Topocoba freezing at night, but by day the forties HIiitop anKolb Studio, west of Bright Angel campgrounds to hotel suites. with a supermarket. tween the North and South Rims. Lodge.

5 6 T I I I ~ '7 I T ;-r. -- ,\, 1 T,' \ l I SAN FRANCISCO MOUN TAINS r - 1 1 I J II // / 1 ) I PAINTED ogSERT I I 'I 1 I, I ' ( y I I I 1 1. I I Cape Ro,ypl I /r 7...._ / -r )I I \ --- - -~f 1-1 7876' I Angel, Window ., l I I I I - ~- '"I\.. /) I t ,_ r ff\ \ I' I r ~ ... \1 lu L ul \- -r -1 r\ I 'I ~ ,,. I If I I l! \ r, r l ', I, 111 1-f '. \ I I I I I \. ' I l \ 11 \~ I I: r' I I ' /, L 1.1. 1 Ji I I I Point Sublime · - - fT, I ' J \ Ii I I I ,, .....__~e-..:.....----..:...' ...... I I l/i / 1I~,' * ~ \\ i,/ ~/I

GRAND CANYON NORTH RIM

TO ENTRANCE STATION REV . APRIL 1964 MAY 19 NP-GC •1 701 A L-----''------~~-~~------~--.,1------~------~~---~------' The high Kaibab Plateau north of The North Rim is 214 miles by road The ranger station, lodge, and inn Getting to Know 3-mile drive to Point Imperial, which PART II Grand Canyon is cool and moist, in from the South Rim. The last 44 miles on the North Rim are located on a th e No rth Rim leads off the Cape Royal road. Here contrast with the desert encircling it of this trip, after leaving Jacob Lake, promontory that stretches for a mile at midday, the Painted Desert often guide below. Kaibab is an Indian word that provide the introduction to your into the canyon, bounded on one side Cape Ro yal, reached by a 26-mile seems to hang suspended like a mirage means "mountain lying down." Fifty North Rim visit. This road, closed by by Roaring Springs Canyon and on drive along a paved road, provides a on the eastern horizon. miles. long and 35 miles wide, this snows in winter, leads through a forest the other by The Transept, another view of the canyon eastward to the to the plateau is covered by a beautiful for­ of tall pines, spruce, and quaking side canyon. The end of the promon­ Painted Desert. Stop, too, for a view The road to Point Sublim e is primi­ est. Spectacular buttes and temples aspen. Deer and wild turkey forage tory is Bright Angel Point, 13 miles of the canyon through Angels Win­ tive, and drivers are urged to use cau­ north nm form the canyon foreground views. in grassy meadows. I from the entrance station. dow. Returning, take time for the tion. It leads through forests of aspen 7 8 This cross-canyon view shows, in upper left, Cape Royal and Wotan's Throne, North Rim features.

When you leave the Bright Angel area on the mule trip to Phantom The Naturalist Program Ranch, the trail is in deep shade. Visitors desiring a short hike will Then suddt;,nly you descend into the find the Transept Trail walk, led by a canyon on a trail that in places has ranger-naturalist, a leisurely and in­ been cut out of solid rock. Roaring structive I-mile (round trip) stroll. Springs, just below Bright Angel Point, Mist gives Japanese feeling to this camera art. These daily walks begin at the trail In hazy outline, rock forms march to a distant is your first stop. rim. Three thousand feet below Toroweap Point the shelter near the lodge. Accommodations and Colorado glistens on its way to the sea. ' and conifers. Here, the inner canyon At Cottonwood Camp, halfway be­ Geology talks are given daily in Services-North Rim seems to come <.loser than at any other tween Roaring Springs and Ribbon summer at Cape Royal. Campfire pro­ Accommodations are available only spot along the North Rim. The road Falls, you will find that the tempera­ One of the most memorable experi­ grams, presented each evening in the in summer. For rates and reservations Grand Canyon may be impassable in wet weather. In ture has risen some 30°F. since you left ences of a summer visit to the North campground near the inn, and the at Grand Canyon Lodge and North National Monument dry weather, it may be closed because Bright Angel Point, for you have Rim is the drive to Cape Royal. The illustrated programs given nightly in Rim Inn, write to the Utah Parks Co., of forest fire danger. dropped almost 4,000 feet. At Ribbon last part of it is along a roadway Ad joining the park on the west is the lodge will add greatly to your en­ Cedar City, Utah, or, during the sum­ Falls, 9 miles along on your 14-mile hedged with fragrant locust. Add to Grand Canyon National Monument, a Daily afternoon bus trip to Point joyment of the park. mer, telephone or write to that com­ journey to the river, you will want to this the sight and smell of countless primitive area of about 310 square Imperial and Cape Royal includes a See bulletin boards for schedules of pany at North Rim Rural Station, nature talk at Cape Royal. stop for the scenery. interpretive activities. field and mountain flowers-Indian miles established in 1932. At Toroweap paintbrush, lupine, gilia, penstemon. Freclonia, Ariz. The last 5 miles will be the hottest, Point one of the most impressive views Bright Angel Point Trail is a self­ iris, Queen-Annes-lace, forget-me-not, but they will be shady, and soon you Seasons on the North Rim An NPS campground near the inn in the canyon awaits you. Looking guiding nature trail. Beginning at the and scarlet-bugler. In the forest, fami­ will reach Phantom Ranch. You will The road into the park is usually has tables, fireplaces, wood, running straight down the sheer rock walls, you trailside shelter, it is an easy walk of lies of deer roam late. Keep a sharp have made a trip which, in climate, is blocked with snow by November 1, water, and comfort stations. Campsites can see the snakelike Colorado River, three-tenths of a mile to the point. eye out for them along the road-they like going from Canada to Mexico. and it remains closed until early in cannot be reserved. 3,000 feet below. Such a view is not Guide leaflets are available at the trail­ are inveterate jaywalkers, and they May. But from mid-1\Iay to mid­ Medical attention. A nurse is on possible in the National Park. To the side shelter and near the lodge. give no notice. October, three distinct seasons can be duty at the lodge. west is Mount Trumbull, the last land­ Going by foot on the North Kaibab From September until mid-October, Horseback trips, in morning and Trail to the river, 14 miles, can be enjoyed at the North Rim. mark of the Grand Canyon country on afternoon, follow the rim. Special par­ days are still warm, and aspens mantle The post office is in the lodge. l\Iail­ the western horizon. made one way in a day; however, you By early May, more than 200 inches ties can be arranged. the hillsides with gold. This is a good ing address is General Delivery, North The best route to Toroweap leaves are urged to break your trip at one of snow may have fallen, but out on time to visit the North Rim. Rim Rural Station, Fredonia, Ariz. the main highway at the town of Fre­ of the four campgrounds en route. Point Sublime and Cape Royal, warm Exploring the Canyon donia near the Arizona-Utah border. There are two other things to watch. updrafts from the inner canyon will Church services. Protestant, Roman The 65-mile graded road to Tuweep Going by muleback down the North First, be very careful in crossing the have allowed spring flowers to bloom. Catholic, and Latter-day Saints services How to Reach the North Rim Ranger Station is easily passable in Kaibab Trail matches the South Rim's creek during high water. Second, while Cactus, agave, and cliffrose will be in are held on Sundays. Inquire at the good weather. Toroweap Point is 5 Phantom Ranch Trip for thrills and mule parties are passing, stand still on brilliant blossom, and the noon air A paved road leaves U.S. 89A at lodge for time and place. Jacob Lake, ,\riz. This road is closed miles by unimproved road beyond the superb scenery. You can go to Roaring the outside of the trail. Canyon hikers will have midsummer warmth. Be­ Telephones are at the lodge and inn. ranger station. No supplies, lodgings, Springs (4.6 miles) and return in I should obtain the "Hiker Information tween the park entrance and Bright by snow from about mid-October to or meals are available after leaving day. Another trip takes you all the Bulletin" at the North Rim Ranger Angel Point, the meadows fill with mid-1\Iay. Public transportation to the North Rim is available only from mid­ A service station and grocery store Frcdonia. A small campgTound is way to Phantom Ranch. Reserve your Station. Anyone planning to use trails flowers, but snowbanks remain near arc at Bright Angel Point, on the road near Toroweap Point. No water is mule in advance. A minimum of three not described in this folder must get the forest edge. Nights are cold, and June through August by bus from Cedar City, Utah. to North Rim Inn. available. persons is required for each trip. a permit from the district park ranger. even in sunshine the air is chilly.

9 10 PART Ill In cutting this renowned chasm, Life Zones which measures roughly 217 miles long, HEAD OF KAIBAB TRAIL the North America has been divided RIM OF THE CANYON 0 9 miles wide, and 1 mile deep, the 0 into seven major temperature zones ~ ~ Colorado River has exposed a great according to latitude, ranging from canyons' series of rock layers. From many points Tropical at the Equator to Arctic in !:i D p 11 hell• "' .... you can see fine examples of the rocks the polar region. Biologists, observing Toroweap Formation 325 natural of all the known eras of geological > r that plants and animals typical of each D nc d ,1, e I 01 rn I' Cocon,no So d u z st 350 5 time-from the Precambrian to the zone differ appreciably from those in (buff)" °'.'• history present era, the Cenozoic-a span of adjacent temperature zones, have ~ nearly 2 billion years. Few places in called them "life zones." The same Geology the world permit this geologic perspec­ zoning as to temperature, plants, and .!, ► Z tive. FI I 1 1 t eI I t .,, u In the many colors of its layered · animals also can occur at a single lati­ .. 6 The hard black rock of the inner ~z N walls and in the black rock of its gorge, tude in areas that extend from low to ~~ 0 gorge of the Grand Canyon, a narrow, w Grand Canyon reveals a great story of high elevations. Thus, in the Grand 0 D, p ,t C I ~ slow, but relentless, change in the V-shaped chasm 1,500 feet deep, be­ Canyon region, at a single latitude, the r/i ·- earth's crust. longs to the most ancient geologic era­ elevation range from 2,000 to 9,000 How was the canyon formed? In the Precambrian. This rock was origi­ feet creates a wide climatic variation 'l I -~- geologic time, it is a new canyon still nally composed o( lavas and layers of and five different life zones. -- being carvec.-the down-cutting process gravel, sand, and silt built up both in The Lower Sonoran zone, the next the sea and on land. But tremendous INNER GORGE began only about 7 million years ago. zone north of Tropical, has the climate Lll~.~!lll<-lcf,"i;J>',;..-;'j"'1-.~-,r7-..__:.,.,,,..:...,_~ ...... _;....:.._;_;,_~ ...... EROSION SURFACE ....;:...;,;_ _;.;:...--..;.;..--...... _+,--"--1--1 At that time the ancestral Colorado pressures and heat from mountain­ of southern Sonora, Mexico. In Grand GREAT UNCONFORMITY River flowed in about its present building forces, perhaps a billion years Canyon it occurs at river level (2,000 ago, recrystallized these original forma­ course over a vast, low-lying plain. feet elevation). Typical plants are z Then a general rising o( the land tions into the dark, vertically platy cactus, agave, and yucca; animals are :,; caused the river to flow more swiftly. rock called schist that you see in the also those of the desert-chuckwalla "' <~ At the same time, a slow and gentle inner gorge today. and desert spiny lizards, rattlesnake, u The ancient mountains built up at w doming occurred in this region. The and black-throated sparrow. Part way "'0.. swift river was able lo cut downward that time were slowly worn away. up the ascent to the South Rim, the about as fast as the dome rose. As a re­ Upon their remnants, many rock layers climate, vegetation, and animal life be­ Horizontal Scale 1 inch - 4000 Feet were later deposited in seas or on land. Vertical Scale 1 inch - 1600 Feet sult, the Colorado maintained its come typical of the next zone north, FEBRUARY 1965 NP - GC• l701 5 Eventually, by uplifting and faulting, course as the canyon walls grew higher the Upper Sonoran, which is character­ Millions of years ago, the sea was here, and and higher above it. new mountains were built, and these ized by the pinyon and juniper belt. trilobites fed on its flo or. Some of these crab­ in their turn were eroded away. The like creatures became fossilized in deposits in The river itseH has cut only a nar­ The Transition zone, the next zone those seas. Specimens shown he re came from horizontal rock layers in the upper lowe r part of the Brighi Angel shale. (See dia­ row slot. The great width of the Grand still farther north, appears on the walls of the Grand Canyon are there­ gram, left. ) Canyon is the result of erosion by land­ South Rim at 7,000 to 8,000 feet eleva­ fore younger and have been subjected slides, runoff of water from the sides, tion. Here, in the ponderosa pine for­ to less change than the ancient layers ice and frost action, and other agents. ests, you can see such birds as Steller's of the black inner gorge. Today, we In the process, much rock debris­ jay and mountain chickadee. can identify in the upper walls thick boulders, gravel, sand, and mud-has Familiar flowers of the South Rim, layers of limestone derived from de­ been working downhill to the river. from spring to autumn, include phlox, posits in prehistoric seas, shales derived Hence, the forces widening the canyon blue penstemon, buttercup, spring­ from muds, and sandstones derived beauty, mahonia, cliffrose, rabbitbrush, have been supplying the Colorado's from sands. waters, flowing at an average rate of wild sunflower, purple aster, sulfur the North and South Rims, even 7 miles an hour, with cutting tools­ In these rock layers are fossil rem­ eriogonum, snakeweed, and paper­ though they are only 9 miles apart. sand for scouring, boulders for pound­ nants of prehistoric life. First are flower. The white-tailed black Kaibab squirrel ing. Century after century, these tools primitive sea plants; then, in younger The river itself is a barrier to the on the North Rim is separated by a have helped deepen the gorge. For and hence higher layers, are primitive smaller creatures, but climatic differ­ hostile chasm and climate from its near years, the river's raging brown and red seashells and crablike trilobites. Still ences between life zones also prevent relative on the South Rim-the Abert's torrents carried past any given point in higher, traces of later, more advanced many animals from crossing from rim squirrel, with a gray body, gray tail, the canyon an average of half a million forms successively appear. Here are to rim. Some birds go from zone to ► and white underparts. The famous tons of mud and sand every 24 hours! the armored fish which were among zone briefly. But each bird species is blue spruce on the North Rim are not In addition, its waters probably swept the first creatures with backbones. at home in that life zone where cli­ seen at all on the other side of the a nearly equal load of boulders along Next are the early kinds of land life: mate, plants, and food supply are most canyon. This is because the North suited to its habits. the river bottom. Now, because of the fine fossil ferns, and remains of sala­ Rim is 1,000 to 2,000 feet higher than closing of Glen Canyon Dam upstream manderlike and lizardlike reptiles. Because of the double barrier im­ the South. As a result, the North Rim from Grand Canyon, the impounded Here, amid the majesty and beauty posed by the deep canyon and the extends, at about 8,000 feet, into the waters o( Lake Powell retain much of of the Grand Canyon, then, is the contrasting climatic zones, we see many Canadian zone, and at 9,000 feet into this silt and sand. story- of the earth. differences in plants and animals on ,- the still cooler Hudsonian zone.

11 12 TO BRYCE CANYON N.P AND CEDAR BREAKS NM.

~ V) 1S "( N '-' < 0 "'> < V) 8 :g ~ >- "' 0 0 ~ >- S: ~ P< >- ~ z 0 NAVAJO "' 0 INC'IAN ::E ~ ::, 0 RE,RVATl-li z ..:I 0 < ::E - z 0 e i:: < z 0.. >< 3 ..:I "' "( z< ~ c., 0 ::, 0 i:: 0 >- z< 0 >< "' z ~ "( µ; ::E ::, u 0 z 0 ;; 0 >- PART IV

Hopis perform feather dance on the South Rim. TO PRESCOTT AND PHOENIX TO WINSLOW ma cluced a bill to make it a National Within half a day's drive from Grand Car.yon are several outstanding areas of the National Park System. Park. Opposition by both public and private interests delayed the passage of The Havasupai are a peaceful na­ The Navajos are far more numerou such a bill for more than 30 years. In tion whose people say they have never (90,000), and their 25,000-square-mile 1893, as President of the United States, killed a white man. In the 12th cen­ reservation is the largest in the United r Harrison established the Grand Can­ tury, their ance tors were driven from States. Still partly nomadic, they pre­ yon Forest Preserve; but the area was their homes on the plateaus near fer to live in the open or in isolated Havasupai farms make an unexpected pattern in the rugged Grand Canyon landscape. canyon still open to exploitation by mining the Grand Canyon by raiding Indians, hogans rather than in \'illages. They and lumbering interests. raise sheep and goats, and, when they River, Wyo., on l\Iay N. Three months but they found a haven in Havasu Prehistory History President Theodore Roosevelt, after stop long enough in one place, they later, having faced scores of thunder­ Canyon. Their oa is, 2½ miles long The walls of Grand Canyon and the Recorded history of the Grand his first trip to the canyon in I 903, farm. Their chief source of income­ ous rapids and a constant sense of un­ and nearly half a mile wide, is watered plateaus along both rims hold the story Canyon began with its discovery in said, "Do nothing to mar its grandeur next to sheep and goats-is from the known danger, the party emerged from by spring-fed Havasu Creek. From its of the prehistoric people who lived 1540 by Don Lopez de Cardenas, one ... keep it for your children, your color comes the name Havasupai, or sale of blankets and jewelry. Grand Canyon. there. Some of them lived below the of Coronado's captains, and 12 fol­ children's children, and all who come Four thousand Hopis (their name Tourist travel to the canyon began "people of the blue-green water." Be­ rims in small, family-size cWf dwellings lowers. In 18·18, after the war with after you, as the one great sight which means "peaceful people") live in 11 in the 1880's when John Hance, a low the village of Supai are three built like fortresses for protection from Mexico, the United States became every American should see." In 1908, waterfalls of great beauty, one of villages in a reservation surrounded miner tun,ed dude wrangler, began to enemies. Pottery fragments and other owner of the region by the treaty of he established Grand Canyon National by the much larger .Navajo Reserva­ improve the Indian trails and to greet which is 200 feet high. remains indicate a thriving culture. Guadalupe Hidalgo. Trappers occa­ Monument. Finally, an act of Congress tion. Intensely conservative, the Hopis visitors with his tall tales of the Traces of small gardens suggest how sionally passed by the canyon, and signed on February 26, 1919 estab­ Today, these Indians number about live today in their mesa-top pueblos canyon. A hotel was built at Grand­ these Indians used the land. their stories of the great gorge quick­ lished Grand Canyon National Park. 200. They farm the fertile valley, rais­ almost as the Spaniards found them view Point in 1892; the Santa Fe Lines By the time the first Europeans ened interest in its exploration. ing grain, fruit, and vegetables. They 400 years ago. They derive most of completed track to the South Rim in visited the area, the pueblos and cliff The first successful transit of the The Indians Today augment their farm income by provid­ their livelihood from the soil. Corn 1901; and the first automobile arrived dwellings of Grand Canyon were al­ canyon came in 1869, when l\Iaj. John ing accommodations and services to is their chief crop, and some of their at the South Rim in 1902. Indians now inhabiting the Grand ready long abandoned. Probably Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War Canyon region belong to one of three \'isitors who follow the trail into their ceremonial dances are marked by pray­ drought and marauding Indian foes hero, made a daring voyage down canyon. Unlike the other Indians of Establishment of the Park tribes-Navajo, Hopi, or Havasupai. ers for rain and good harvests. The forced the dwellers to leave. For a nearly a thousand miles of continuous The Havasupai live in the western the region, who hold frequent tribal best known of these dances is the snake fuller story of the early Indians, VISlt canyons carved by the Green and Colo­ The moYement to protect the can­ part of Grand Canyon. The Navajo ceremonies, the Havasupai have only dance. Visitors are welcome to watch the Tusayan Ruin and Museum near rado Rivers. In four boats, Powell and yon began in 1887, when Senator and Hopi live on reservations east of one major celebration-the Peach this ceremony, which takes place about Desert View. nine companions started from Green Benjamin Harrison, of Indiana, intro- the park. Harvest Festival in August. mid-August.

13 14 t­z L&.J ~ ar: c.:.,=> (IS)- Cl - Cl outer side of the trail until animals Park naturalists, the interpretive ~ park have passed. force of the Service, operate the visitor center and museums and conduct na­ ff­ Wheeled vehicles arc absolutely pro­ (..), hibited on park trails. ture walks, campfire programs, and a rigulations other interpretive activities. Hunting is prohibited within the :::,~ and park. Firearms are permitted in the Visitor-use Fees park only if they are sealed or cased Vehicle permit fees are collected at administration to prevent their use. en trance stations. Fees are not listed Fishing in park streams requires an because they are subject to change. Arizona license. Details of regulations, The information may be obtained by in accordance with Arizona laws, are writing to the superintendent. Fees, To protect your park, regulations available at park entrance and ranger deposited in the U.S. Treasury, par­ prohibit removing, defacing, or de­ stations. tially o!Iset the cost of operating the stroying any rock, fossil, or plant; and Pets arc allowed in the park only National Parks. hunting, disturbing, or feeding any if they are physically controlled at all form of wildlife. times. They are not allowed on inner canyon trails under any circumstances. America's Natural Resources Camping is permitted only in desig­ Administration nated area~. You arc limited to 14 Grand Canyon National Park is ad­ Created in 1849, the Department of days. Dispose of burnable rubbish in ministered by the National Park Ser­ the Interior- America's Department of your campfire; put other refuse in vice, U.S. Department of the Interior. Natural Resources-is concerned with trash cans. The National Park System, of which the management, conservation, and de­ this park is a unit, is dedicated to con­ velopment of the Nation's water, wild­ Campfires may be built only in serving the scenic, scientific, and his­ life, mineral, forest, and park and dcsig1iated areas in the campgrounds. toric heritage of the United States for recreational resources. It also has Before leaving your camp, be sure your the benefit and enjoyment of its fire is thoroughly extinguished. R eport major responsibilities for Indian and people. territorial affairs. any unattended fire lo a park ranger. As the Nation's principal conserva­ The superintendent, whose address is Maximum speed on park roads is tion agency, the Department works to Grand Canyon, Ariz., 86023, is in im­ ·15 m.p.h., except where posted. Drive assure that nonrenewable resources are mediate charge. carefully. developed and used wisely, that park Hiking and riding calls for care. Park rangers are the protective force and recreational resources are con­ Stay on the trails. If you shorlcut, you of the National Park Service. Their served for the future, and that renew­ may dislodge earth and rocks and seri­ job is to help you and to enforce park able resources make their full contri­ ously injure people below you. Horses regulations. You will find them at en­ bution to the progress, prosperity, and and mules have the right-of-way ; if trance stations, ranger stations, and security of the United States-now and you arc 011 foot, stand quietly 011 the patrolling roads and campgrounds. in the future.

Revised 196 5 U.S. Department of the Interior For sale by the Superincendenr of Documents, GPO: 1H5 0-768·37'0 National Park Service U.S. Government Printing Office Washington, D.C., 20402 - Price 15 cencs