Index

Compiled by Jessica Kany

A Annapuma I (Dhaulagiri Himal) 362 Antarctic Peninsula (Antarctica) 291-294 Antarctica Aasheim, Stein 87, 9 l-92 Climbs and Expeditions 29 l-295 Abramov, Alexander 305 Antarctic Peninsula 29 l-294 Achey, Jeff 184, 195-196 Sentinel Range 294 Acute Mountam Sickness (AMS) art. 160-166 Aramendia, Ruben 347-348 Afanasiev, Alexander 306, 309-310 Arch Canyon (Utah) 186-187, 186 Africa Arches National Park (Utah) 184 Climbs and Expeditions 295-305 Arctowski Peninsula (Antarctic Peninsula) 294 Cameroon 296297 Areri (, ) 321-322 Kenya 298-300 Argentina 66-74, Madagascar 300-305 art. Climbs and Expeditions 275-291 Mali 295-296 Arizona (United States) Aguja de la Silla (Argentine Patagonia) 281 Climbs and Expeditions I9 1- 192 Aguja Guillaumet (Argentme Patagoma) 275-276, Arrigetch Peaks (Brooks Range, Alaska) 201-202 285 Arwa Spire (Garhwal, India) 35 l-353, 352 Aguja Mermoz (Argentine Patagonia) 284-285, 284 Arwa Tower (Garhwal Himalaya) cover, art. 46-55, Aguja Poincenot (Argentine Patagonia) 275-276, 49- 51.54, 351-353 281 Arwa Valley (Garhwal Himalaya) cover, arf. 46-55, Aguja Saint Exupery (Argentine Patagonia) 281 49- 51.54 Aiguille Extra (Sterra Nevada, California) 180 Asan (Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) 3 13-3 1.5 Aihara, Kazunari 369-370 Autheman, David 286-288, 287 Ajisaka, Setsei 384-386 Avanarsuasua (Roosevelt Range, Greenland) 236- Ak-Su North Peak (Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) 310 237 Ala Archa National Park (Kyrgyzstan) 307-3 10 Awesome, Mt.(Chugach Range, Alaska) 216 Alaska (United States) an. 22-45 Climbs and Expeditions 201-2 19 Alaska Range (Alaska) art. 22-30, art. 37-45, 202- B 216 Aliadvin, Dmitry 309-310 Babanov, Valeri 209 Allah’s Finger (Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan) Backes, Scott 232-233 343-344 Bafftn Island (Canada) art. 120- 126 Almirante Nieto (Torres del Paine Nat’1 Park, Chile) Climbs and Expeditions 234-236 270 Baird Glacier (Coastal Range, Alaska) 31 Alpamayo (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 249-250 Baja California (Mexico) 245-247 Amelunxen, Conny 272-275 Bakin, Michael 89 Amemiya, Takashi 13 Baltoro Glacier (Pakistan ) arts. 86- 114 Amin Brakk (Pakistan Karakoram) art. 115-l 19, (Pakistan) 334-341 116, 119, 344-347, 346 Bang, Jung Ho 344 Amons, Andreas 327-328 Barbachen Peak (Rakoposhi-Harimosh Mountains, Amulet, Mt. (Chugach Range, Alaska) 216 Pakistan) 329-330 Anderson, Dave 214-215.236 Barille Mt. (Ruth Gorge, Alaska) 208 Andringitra National Park (Madagascar) 300-305 Bartlett, Steve 185- 186 Angeloni, Giangi 341 Basaseachic Waterfall National Park (Mexico) 247- Anker, Conrad 170, 375-379, 381-382 248,248 450 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 2000

Batu Lawi (Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo) 391-392, Brown, Keith 128 391 Bubulimotin (Naltar Mountains, Pakistan) 328 Batura I (Batura Muztagh, Pakistan) 326-327 Bugaboos (Canada) 227-230 Batura Muztagh (Pakistan) 323-327 Buhler, Carlos 254-255,255, 379-380 Bean Peaks (Antarctic Peninsula) 291 Buil, Cecilia ii, 247-248.248 The Bear’s Tooth a.k.a Peak 10,070’ (Alaska Range, Bullard, Supy 379 Alaska) arr. 37-45, 37, 38, 40,42-4-S, 212, 213 The Burkett Needle (Coastal Range, Alaska) al?. 3 l- Beatrice (Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan) 341- 36,31,33-35, 217-218 343,343 Bums, Cameron M. 184, 19 1 Bechtel, Steve 298 Burphu Dhura (Kumaon, India) 356-357 Beckwith, Christian Preface x-xi. art. 13-15, art. Byerly. Doug 243-245 127-134, an. 151-152,372-373 Behrendt Mountains (Antarctic Peninsula) 291 C Bellin, Giunluca 356 Benoist, Stephane 322 Caldwell, Tommy 169 Benowitz, Jeff apple 201-202 California (United States) Bentley, Mt. (Sentinel Range, Antarctica) 294 Climbs and Expeditions 167- 183 Berbeka, Maciej 14 Sierra Nevada 168-169, 178-181 Ben%, Cene 13 Yosemite 66-74, 169- I78 Berecz, Gavor 89 Cameroon (Africa) Bert, Paul 135 Climbs and Expeditions 296-297 Besser, Pablo 269-270 Camp 4 (Yosemite, California) 173- 176, 174, 175 Beyer, Jim 184, 192, 196-197 Campillo, Salvador 296 Bhattachatya, S. 353 Canada art. 120- 126 Bi Pung Valley (Qionglai Mountains) 129 Climbs and Expeditions 219-236 Biacherahi Tower (, Pakistan) 331- Baffin Island 120- 126 333,332 Bugaboos 227-230 Binder, Bruce 178-179, 181 Canadian Rockies 230-233 Bionda, Thierry 271 Fairweather Range 223-224,223 Bimbacher, Eduard 380-381 Kluane National Park Reserve 22 l-223 Bjamstad, Eric 183-184 Logan Mountains 224-225 Black Canyon of the Gunnison (Colorado) 195-196 Richardson Mountains 224 Blanchard, Barry 23 1-233 St. Elias Range 219-223 Blanco, Francisco 301 Canal de la Montaiias (Chilean Patagonia) 267 Bloche, Irene 184 Cannestraci, Diego 263 Blow Me Down Provincial Park (Newfoundland) Cation de1 Tajo (Sierra Juarez, Mexico) 245-247 236 Canyonlands National Park (Utah) 185-l 86 Bohigas, Nil 368-369 Bohorquez, Antonio Gdmez 250-254 Cape Renard Tower (Antarctic Peninsula) 292-293 Bok’ra (Qionglai Mountains) art. 127-134 ear, Marko art. 75-85, 80 Bolivia Carson, Andy 198-199 Climbs and Expeditions 255-263 Caspersen, Robert 89, art. 90-99.97.99, 338 Bolotov, Alexey arr. 56-65, 354 Cathedral Arch (Arch Canyon, Utah) 186-187,186 Bongard, Xaver 87 Cathedral Peak (Wind River Mountains, Wyoming) Bordet, Michel286.288 197 Basic, Stipe cwt.12-2 1 Caucasus (Russia) 305-307 Bostock, Andrew 237-238 Cavagnetto, Paolo 290-291 Boukreev, Anatoli 135, 317 Cave, Andy 285 Bowling, Mark 172-173, 187 Celestial Peak (Qionglai Mountains, China) art. Brain, Yossi 256, 259,443~444 127-134 Brash, Andrew 386-388 Central Howser Towet (Bugaboos, Canada) 229-230 Breemer, Chris 386-388 Central Tower of Paine (Torres de1 Paine Nat’1 Park, Bridges, David 381-382 Chile) 271-272 Bridwell, Jim art. 37-45, 37, 43, 45, 187 Cerro Fitz Roy (Argentine Patagonia) 282-284, 283 Britto, Darren art. 1OO- 107,335 Cerro Murallon (Argentine Patagonia) 278 Brock, Roxanna 183.313-314 Cerro Pared Norte (Argentine Patagonia) 290-291 Brooks Range (Alaska) 201-202 INDEX 451

Cerro Piegiorgio (Argentine Patagonia) 286-288, Cicogna, Antonella ati. 12-21 287 “Cima Asso” (Hindu Kush, Pakistan) 322-323 Cerro Pollone (Argentine Patagonia) 285-286.286 The Citadel (Bafftn Island, Canada) 234 Cerro Presidente (Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia) Clarence, Craig 168- 169 259 Clauss, Anke 265-266,270.271 Cerro San Luis (Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Bolivia) Climaco, John 386-388 258 Climbs and Expeditions 167-393 Cerro San Valentin (Chilean Patagonia) 268-269 Club Activities 420-428 Cerro Santa Vera Cruz (Santa Vera Cruz, Bolivia) Clyma, Julie-Ann 348-349 260-263.262 Coastal Range (Alaska) an. 3 l-36, 31, 33. 34 Cerro Standhardt (Argentine Patagonia) art. 66-74, Colorado (United States) 70.72. 73, 288 Climbs and Expeditions 193- 196 Cerro Torre (Argentine Patagonia) iv, art. 66-74, 70, ComensaIia, Carlos 263-264 276-277, 277, 288-290,289 Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.) Cerro Wila Llojeta (Cordillera Real, Bolivia) 145 Climbs and Expeditions 305-3 17 Cerro Willpanki 1 (Cordillera de Cocapata, Bolivia) Kyrgyzstan 307-3 I5 259-260.260 Russia 305-307 Chabaline. Pave1 an 155157. 157 Cook, Dakin 256.259 Chabot, Doug 206-210 Cook, Mt. (St. Elias, Canada) 219-220,220 Chacraraju (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 25 l-252 Cooke, Simon 257 Chang Ping Valley (Qionglai Mountains, China) 129 Cool, Kenton art. 46-55. 240 Changui Tower (Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan) Copp, Jonathon 227-228 347-348,347 Cordillera Apolobamba (Bolivia) 256-259 Charakusa Region (Pakistan) 341-343 Cordillera Blanca (Peru) 249-254 Chhukung Ri (Dhaulagiri Himal) 362 Cordillera de Cocapata (Bolivia) 259-260 Chief’s Head (Rocky Mountain Nat’1 Park, Cordillera Huayhuash (Peru) 254-255 Colorado) 195 Cordillera Real (Bolivia) 255 Chihuahua (Mexico) 247-248 Cordilleras Quimsa Cruz (Bolivia) 258 Chikari (Hindu Raj, Pakistan) 319 Cornice Peak (Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, Pakistan) Child, Greg 386-388 349 Childress, Jack 224-225 Corona, Renzo 384 Chile Corrections 394-395 Climbs and Expeditions 263-275 Cosgrove, Scott 188 Chin, Jimmy 341-343 Court of the Patriarchs (Zion Nat.1 Park, Utah) 189 China art. 127-134 Crampton, Mark 257-258 Climbs and Expeditions 382.391 Crosson. Mt. (Alaska Range, Alaska) 202 Chinese Karakoram 386-388 Crouch, Greg iv, 276-277, 285-286 Gongka Mountains 388-391 Cuemo Chico (Torres del Paine Nat’1 Park, Chile) Karangutagg Valley 384 270-271 Mushishan Group 384 Cuemo Este (Torres de1 Paine Nat’1 Park. Chile) Qionglai Mountains 127-134. 131 270-27 1 Chinese Karakoram (China) 386.388 Cuemo Norte (Torres de1 Paine Nat’1 Park, Chile) Cho Oyu (Nepal Himalaya) 379 270 Cho Polu (Dhaulagiri Himal) 366.369, 367, 368 Cusick, Brendan 257 Choktoi Glacier (Panmah Muztagh. Pakistan) 330- Cuverville Island (Antarctic Peninsula) 294 334 Czyzewski, Mikolaj 14 Chomo Lonzo (Dhaulagiri Himal) 368, 380-381, 384 D Chopicalqui (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 252 Chouinard,Yvon 71,74,210 Dabneyland (Canyonlands Nat’1 Park, Utah) 185 Christensen, Terry art. 37-45 Dade. Mt. (Sierra Nevada. California) 180 Chrobak, Eugeniusz 14 Daehli, Finn 87, 91-92 Chugach Range (Alaska) 2 16-217 Daly, Malcolm 206 Church, Bill 329-330 Dam, Lt. Commander Satyabrata 356-357 Churup (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 25 1 Daudet, Lionel art. 3l-36,36. 217-218 Chushubalstering II (Hindu Raj, Pakistan) 320, 32l- Davis, Nils 229 322,322 452 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 2000

Davis, Steph 235236 Davy, Mikhail art. 56-65.65, 354 F Dawa, Sherpa 14 Deborah, Mt. (Alaska Range, Alaska) 215216, 215 Fairweather Range (Alaska) 217-218 Dedo de Galupour @‘altar Mountains, Pakistan) 328 Fairweather Range (Canada) 223-224,223 DeKlerk, Andy 340-34 1 Fairweather, Mt. (Fairweather Range, Alaska) 217 Demaria, Mt. (Antarctic Peninsula) 293-294 Fasel, David iv National Park (Alaska) 202-203 Fathi Brakk (Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan) de Choudens, Antoine 353 341-343,342 Desio, Mt. (Chinese Karakoram) 386-388 Feagin, Nancy 302-303,302 Dhaulagiri Himal 361-369 Feeney, Rob 214-215,214 Dhaulagiri I (Dhaulagiri Himal, Nepal) 12. art. 12- Fine, Etienne 281 21, 16,17,19, 21, 361 Fisher Towers (Utah) 186 Dicker, Kathy 188 Fitz Roy (Argentine Patagonia) 158, 275-276 Diemberger, Kurt 386-388 Fitzwallner, Hubert 360 Dole&i, Larry 253-254,254 Florine, Hans 68-69, 170 Dome (Watkins Mountains, Greenland) 241-243, Foissac, Sebastien art. 31-36, 31,33,34 242 Foraker, Mount (Alaska Range, Alaska) vi, 22, art. Donahue, Topher 195-196 22-30,25-27,29,203- 204 Donini, Jim 127,285-286 Fowler, Charlie 128, 134, 336 Donovan, Dan 205-206 Fowler, Mick art. 46-55, 54, 55, 351-353 Donson, Andy 186 Fox, Jon 234-235 DOS Hermanos (Chilean Patagonia) 263-264,264 Francou, Bernard 144 Doseth, Hans Christian 87,91-92 “Free Korea Peak” (Svobodnaya Korea) (Kyrgysky DraSar, Michalem 89, 336-338 Alatau, Kyrgyzstan) 308-309,309 Driel, Philippe 281 Dunagiti (Garhwal, India) 354 Dunmire, Glenn art. 37-45 G Dutka, Jaro 89,336-338 Dziobak, Michael P 217 Gadd, Will art. 152-155,155 Ganchempo (Dhaulagiri Himal) 362 E Gankarpunzum (Gongka Mountains, China) 390- 391,390 Garcia, Carlos 247-248.248 Earl, Jim 223-224 Garhwal Himalaya (India) art. 46-65, 35 l-354 East Kanthari (Kokosiri, China) 382-383 Garibotti, Roland0 66, 158, 279-281 Easton, Sean 272-275 Garrett, James 185 Echevarrta, Evelio 260-263 Gasherbrum II (Chinese Karakoram) 384-386,385 Echevarria, Sergio 265 Gasherbtum IV (Pakistan Karakoram) 339-341,339 Edwards, Guy 228 George, Eric 176-177 Edwards, Nige1239 Gerberding, Steve 172-173 Edwards, Mt. (Glacier Nat’1 Park, Montana) 199- Gibbs Fjord (Baftin Island, Canada) 235-236 201,200 Gilmore, Ben 282 Eguskitza, Xavier art. 135-138 Glacier National Park (Montana) 199-201 Ehrlich, Joerg 323-325 Goba, Chewang Motup 354-356 El Capitan (Yosemite) 66-69,69, 170-172 Gongka Mountains (China) 388-391 El Cuchillo (Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia) 256 Graber, Mike 88, 335 El Gigante (Chihuahua, Mexico) ii, 247-248,248 Grand Teton (Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming) El Gran Trono Blanc0 (Sierra Juarez, Mexico) 245 196-197 247,246 Grand Teton National Park (Wyoming) 196-197 El Portrero Chico (Nuevo Leon, Mexico) 249 Great Trango Tower (Pakistan Karakoram) v, art. Epperson, Greg 302-303 86-89, 158, 334-335.337 Erkimkang (Dhaulagiri Himal) 366 Greenland Escudo (Torres de1 Paine Nat’1 Park, Chile) 270 Climbs and Expeditions 236-245 Espada (Torres de1 Paine Nat’1 Park, Chile) 271 Gregory, Nigel 193 Everest, Mount (Himalaya) 78, 135-138, 362-366, Gregson, James 239,241-243 375-379,376,378 Grindelwald Glacier (Switzerland) 146 INDEX 453

Groaz, Cristoforo 3 14-3 15 Howard, Pike 224-225 Gmpo la Paz (Chilean Patagonia) 265-268 Howe, Evan 341-343 Guillaumet (Argentine Patagonia) 284-285 Howse Peak (Canadian Rockies, Canada) 232-233, Gustafsson, Veikka 361 233 GutschLToni 333-334 Huantsdn (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 250 Guzej, Zare art. 75-85 Hubbard, Alun 2 19-220, 290-29 1 Gya (Himachal Pradesh. India) 354-356 Huber, Alexander 33-334 Gyachikang (Nepal) 360 Huber, Thomas 333-334 Gyachung Kang (Mahalangur Himal, Tibet) art. 75 Huey, Raymond B. art. 135-138.138 Hultgmn, Herbert N. 161 85, 78, 79,80,83, 379 Humar, Tom& art. 12-21, 16, 17, 19,21, 361 H Hunt, Harry 212 Hunter, Mt. (Alaska Range, Alaska) 204-206 Huntington, Mt. (Alaska Range, Alaska) 206-209, Habeler, Peter 135 207 Hackett, Peter 162 Hut Tower (Ruth Gorge, Alaska) 212 Haden, Jim 303-304 Hwang, Young Soon 344 Haeussler, Peter 212-213 Hainablak Central Tower a.k.a. Shipton Spire (Pakistan Karakoram) 100 I Haines, Arthur 236 Half Dome (Yosemite) 68, 170, 176-178, 178 Ibrahim Peak (Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan) Hanispur South (Panmah Muztagh, Pakistan) 331- 343-344 333 The Ice Cream Cone (Chugach Range, Alaska) 2 16 Harris, Craig 178 Illum, Christian 245 Harrison, Ginette 14, 359 In Memoriam 429-446 Hart, David 218-219, 222-223 Brain, Yossi 443-444 Hawley, Elizabeth 136, 360 Bridges, Dave 444446 Heard Island (Antarctica) 295 Farquhar, Marjory Bridge 429-430 Hearson, Jim 69 Hackett, William D. 435-436 Hennek, Dennis 87 Hollister, Charles Davis 438-441, 440 Hielo Continental Norte (Argentine Patagonia) 290- Jukes, Thomas Hughes 430-43 1 291 Kendall, Henry W. 436-438.438 Hielo Patagonico Norte (Chilean Patagonia) 268- Lowe, Alex 44 l-443,433 269 Petzoldt, Paul Kiesow 431-434,433 Hielo Patagonico Stir (Chilean Patagonia) 269-270 Pinsch, Harold L. 434-435 High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) nn. 160- India arts. 46-65 166 Climbs and Expeditions 35 l-357 Hildes, Dave 219.220 Inenaga, Atsushi 326-327 Hill, Lynn 302.303 Innominata (Argentine Patagonia) art. 66-74, 74, Himachal Pradesh (India) 354-356 288 Himlung (Nepal) 360-361.360 Irvine, Andrew Comyn 375-376 Hindu Kush (Pakistan) 322-323 Isaac, Sean 229-23 1, 253-254 Hindu Raj (Pakistan) 3 18-322 Ishikwaw, Makoto 329 Hirota, Sugiyama 327 Ishinca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 250 (Pakistan) 329, 348-349 Itami, Tsuguyasu 390-391 Hokanson, Ryan 198 Iwazaki, Hiroshi 370-371 HolBek. Marek 344347,346 Izco, Fermin 347-348 Hollenbaugh, Jeff 129, 133 Hollinger, Warren 183 J Hooker, Mt. (Wind River Mountains, Wyoming) 197-198, 197 J. V. Jensen Land (Greenland) 236-237 Homopiren National Park (Chilean Patagonia) 264- Jackson, Brad 225-227 265 Jackson, Renny 2 10 Houlding, Leo 172 JakofEiE, Tomai nn. 75-85 House, Steve arr. 157-159, 159, 231-233, 340-341 Jannu (Dhaulagiri Himal) 369 Houston, Charles S. 161 Janschek, Peter 72, 288-290 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 2000

Jefferson, Mark 2 17 Komme. Katsuvoshi 13 Jessup, Micah 228 Koibb Canyony(Zion Nat’1 Park, Utah) 187-l 88 Jezler, Christoph 362 Kolsrud, Dag 87, 91-92 Jofre, Heman 265 Karen Zlatko 284-285 Johnson, Mt. (Ruth Gorge, Alaska) 210-211, 211 Korona (Kyrgysky Alatau, Kyrgyzstan) 307-308. Jonas, Brian art. 37-45,43 308 Jones, Crag art. 46-55, 292-293, 351-353 Koshelenko, Yuri 56, 88, 335 Jost, Matic or?. 75-85 Kost, Danny W. 2 16-218 Juhasz, Jure 250-25 1 Kotur Glacier (West Kokshaal-Tau, Kyrgyzstan) Jung, Guenter 366-368,368 315-317,316 Jushua Tower (Baffin Island, Canada) 235-236 Kozjek, Pavle 253 Koz Sar (Batura Muztagh, Pakistan) 326 K Krakauer, Jon 135 Krymskiy, Robert 306-307 Kumaon (India) 356-357 (Karakoram Range) 135-138.394 Kutshkulin Sar (Batura Muztagh, Pakistan) 323-326, Kabang (Tibet) 370-371 324 Kaga Tondo (Mali, Africa) 295 Kyrgysky Alatau (Kyrgyzstan) 307-310 Kamei, Kanji 329 Kyrgyzstan (C.I.S.) Kamuro, Hironobu 14 Climbs and Expeditions 307-3 15 Kangchungtse (Dhaulagiri Himal) 368 Kangtokla (Nepal) 360 Kanjiroba (Nepal) 359-360 L Kannier, Brandon 235-236 Kantzler, Jim 127 LaEen. Grega 250 Kapadia, Harish 46 La Dama Blanca (Chilean Patagonia) 266-268.266 Karakoram (Pakistan) arfs. 86-l 19 La Esfinge (Paron Valley, Peru) 253-254 Karambar Glacier (Batura Muztagh, Pakistan) 323- Ladakh (India) 357 325 Lailak Region (Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) 310 Karamobony (Andringitra Nat’1 Park) 303-304 Landry, Werner R. 246-247 Karangutagg Valley (China) 384 Lao Ding Shan (Chinese Karakoram) 386-388,387 Karatosh, Mt. (Caucasus, Russia) 306 Lapche Kang (Tibet) 369-370 Karavshin Region (P&-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) 310-315 Larcher, Roland0 249 Karlsen, Gunnar 89, art. 90-99,98,338 Larson, Norm 20 1 Karo, Silvo 158, 279-281, 279, 280 Larson, Steve art. 22-30, 25,27,29-30 Kenya (Africa) III (Panmah Muztagh, Pakistan) 331, 333 Climbs and Expeditions 298-300 Latok IV (Panmah Muztagh, Pakistan) 333-334,333 Ketil (Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland) 243-245,244 Lazkano, Jon 87 Keyboard of the Winds (Rocky Mountain Nat’1 Lee, Sang-Jo 334-335 Park, Colorado) 193-195 Lemon Mountains (Greenland) 239 Khan Tengri (PamirfTien Shan. Kyrgyzstan) 317 Lhakhang (Himachal Pradesh, India) 356 Khatung Kang (Dhaulagiri Himal) 366 Liankang Kangri (Gongka Mountains, China) 390- Kim, Jae Soo 339-340 391 Kim, Myoung Rae 344 Libecki, Mike arr. 120-126, 126,303-304 Kinabalu, Mt. (Sabah, Malaysian Borneo) 392-393 Lightner Jr., Sam 391-392 Kinesava, Mt. (Zion Nat’1 Park, Utah) 188 Lindbergh Fjelde (Greenland) 239 King Brakk (Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan) Linek, Vlado 89 343-344 Little Switzerland (Alaska Range, Alaska) 214-215 Kings Canyon National Park (California) 169 Littlejohn, Pat 299-300, 315-3 17 Kirkespiret (Tasenniut Fjord, Greenland) 245 Littman, David 187-188 Kiukimtiu (Caucasus, Russia) 305 Logan, Mt. (Kluane Nat’1 Park Reserve, Canada) Klansjscek, Matija 250-251 22 l-222 Klein, Dr. Andrew at?. 139-150,150,255 Logan Mountains (Canada) 224-225 Klenov, Alexander art. 56-65,60,62,354 Lone Pine Peak (Sierra Nevada, California) 181 Kluane National Park Reserve (Canada) 221-223 Lone Rock (San Rafael Swell. Utah) 185 Knott, Paul 220-221 Long, Steve 393-393 ’ Kobler, Karl 362 Longs Peak (Rocky Mountain Nat’1 Park, Colorado) INDEX 455

193 Mersch, Jan 333-334 Loso, Mike 216-217 Messner, Reinhold 135 Louise Boyd Land (Greenland) 237-238 Mexico Lowe, Alex 88-89, arf. 100-107, 102, 105, 106, 158, Climbs and Expeditions 245-249 206-209. 294, 335, 381-382.433, 441-443 Meznar, Peter art. 75-85 Lowe, George I4 Michael Minaret (Sierra Nevada, California) 182 Lowe, Jeff l86- 187 Michailov, Michail 308-309 Lower Cathedral Rock (Yosemite. California) 172. Middendotf, John 87 173 Middle Troll (Alaska Range. Alaska) 214 Luebben, Craig 304-305 Milarepa Peak, a.k.a. Pt. 6262m (Nepal Himalaya) Luebben, Silvia 304-305 379-380.380 Milesky Wall (Nuevo Leon, Mexico) 249 LukeS. Cestmfr 372 Miller, Jack 265 Lungma Ri (Tibet) 372 Milton, Scott 298 Mitchell, Brinley 238-239 M Mitrovitch, Russell 68, l70- 17 1, 235-236 Miyar Nala (India) 356 Macaulay, Mt. (St. Elias, Canada) 222-223 Miyazawa, Akira 329 Mace, Charley 340-341 Mizano, Tatsumi 357 Machag (Tibet) 373 Monks, Steve 193 Madagascar (Africa) Montana (United States) Climbs and Expeditions 300-305 CZimbs and Expeditions 199-201 Mahalangur Himal (Tibet) arr. 75-85, 77-80.83 Monte Sarmiento (Chilean Patagonia) 265 Makutchum (Hindu Raj, Pakistan) 319 Monte Trinidad (Chile) 263 Malaysian Borneo Moose’s Tooth (Alaska Range, Alaska) 212-214, Climbs and Expeditions 39 l-393 213 Mali (Africa) Morikubo, Yoshio 362 Climbs and Expeditions 295-296 Moro, Simone 3 17 Mali, Klemen 284-285 Morrison, Mt. (Sierra Nevada. California) 180-181 Mallory, George Leigh 375.379,376,377 Morton, Gus 329-330 Manaslu (Nepal) 361 Morton, Muir 33 l-333 Mandara Mountains (Cameroon) 296-297 Muir, Mount (Sierra Nevada, California) 181 Manica, Mario 393 Muir, Steve 329-330 Marmier, Jean-Claude 3 18-32 1 Mukut Parvat East (Garhwal, India) 351 Mamette, Bernard 296 Mullin, Alan 282 Martin, Nathan art. 66-74, 288 Mushishan Group (China) 384 Martin, Zac 196-197 Martinez, Javier Sanchez 260-263 N Martini, Sergio 362 Mascara (Torres de1 Paine Nat’1 Park, Chile) 270- Nadasdi, Oskar 89 271 Masherbrum Mountains (Pakistan) 341-348 Nagovitsina, Elena 309-310 Naimona’nyi (Tibet) 370-371.371 Masip, Pep art. 115-l 19, 295, 347 Nakamura. Tamotsu art. 127-134, 134 Masuyama. Shigeru 382-383 Mawson Peak (Heard Island, Antarctica) 295 Naltar Mountains (Paktstan) 327-328 Mazur, Dan 386-388.387 Nameless Peak (Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, McClannan, Kent 193, 253.285 Pakistan) 350-35 I. 350 McCray, Brian an. 37-45. 40.42-44, 183, 313-314 Nameless Tower (Pakistan Karakoram) art. 86-89, McGuinness, Jamie 369 338-339 McKinley. Mt. (Denali Nat’1 Park. Alaska) 202-203 Namlo Karpo (Tibet) 373-374. 374 McLean, Andrew 381-382 Nankervis, John 373-374 McNamara, Chris 66,67,68, 170,190, 191 Navajolands (New Mexico) 192 McNeely, Ammon 170, 189, 191 Navrsnik, Blai art. 75-85 Mecleran, Ewan 356 Ndoto Mountains (Kenya) 298-300 MegliE, Janko nrt. 75-85 Nemjung I (Nepal) 360 Meisler, Jon 128- 129 Nepal ari. 12-2 1 Menlungtse (Nepal Himalaya) 379-380 Climbs and Expeditions 358-369 456 THEAMERICANALPINEJOURNAL,2000

Nepal Himalaya 358-361 Park, Ihn Soo 344 Netelenbos, Benno 327-328 Parka Peak (Wrangell-St.Elias Range, Alaska) 218- Nettuno, Lorenzo 290-291 219 Nevada (United States) Parkin, Andy 204,270 Climbs and Expeditions 183 Pamell, Ian 3 10-3 11 Nevado Rtirec (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 250 Paron Valley (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 253-254 New Mexico (United States) Pash, Richard 239 Climbs and Expeditions 192 Patagonia (Argentina) art. 66-74,275.291 Newfoundland Patagonia (Chile) 263-275 Climbs and Expeditions 236 Patterson, Craig 258 Nichols, Andrew 187-l 88 Payne, Roger 348-349 Nicolini, Franc0 384 Peak 10,070’ a.k.a. The Bear’s Tooth (Alaska Nilgiri South (Dhaulagiri Himal) 361-362 Range) arr. 37-45,37,38, 40,42-45, 212,213 Nojin Kansa (Tibet) 372 Peak 10,091’ (Wrangell-St. Elias Range, Alaska) Normslet, Asmus 245 218 North America Peak 12,454’ (Wrangell-St. Elias Range, Alaska) Climbs and Expeditions 168-249 218-219 North Howser Tower (Bugaboos, Canada) 227-228 Peak 12,600’+ (Sierra Nevada, California) 179 Northwest Cook (St. Elias, Canada) 219-220,220 Peak 2970m (Argentine Patagonia) 290-291 Northwest Steele (St. Elias, Canada) 222-223 Peak 48 10 (Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) 3 1 l-3 13,312, Nuevo Leon (Mexico) 249 313 NUN, Sherpa 14 Peak 5260m (Qionglai Mountains, China) 133 Peak 5422m (Qionglai Mountains, China) 130 0 Peak 5465m (Qionglai Mountains, China) 132 Peak 5466m (Qionglai Mountains, China) 130 Peak 5513m (Qionglai Mountains, China) 130 Oak Creek Canyon (Arizona) 191-192 Peak 6118m (Himachal Pradesh, India) 356 Odinstov, Alexander 56, 88, 310, 335 Peak 6222m (Himachal Pradesh, India) 356 Oehninger, Irene 372 Peak 6250 (Tibet) 373-374 ofjord Region (Greenland) 241 Peak 6553m (Himachal Pradesh, India) 356 Ogden, Jared 88-89, art. 100-107, 107, 158, 171, 335 Peak 8,680’ (Chugach Range, Alaska) 216-217 Ogre (Panmah Muztagh, Pakistan) 333 Peak Semionova-Tienshanskogo (Kyrgysky Alatau, Ogrin, Lado art. 12-21 Kyrgyzstan) 309-3 10 Okuda, Masakazu 372 Pekhterev, I. 3 15 Olevsky, Ron 187 Pellizzari, Emanuele 330-33 1 O’Neill, Timothy art. 66-74, 74, 170, 288 Pennings, Mike 129 Organ Rock (Arches Nat’1 Park, Utah) 184 Pereya, Jose 170- 172 Ostanin, Victor art. 56-65 Perez, Rodrigo Fica 269-270 Oswald, Carl 216 Perez, Ruben Aramendia 347-348 Oyarzabal, Juanito 362 Perkins, Andy 7 1 Perless, Greg 264-265 P Pershin, Mikhail art. 56-65,59, 156, 354 Peru Painted Wall (Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Climbs and Expeditions 249-255 Colorado) 195-196 Pholha Khyung (Transhimalaya, Tibet) 372-373, Pakistan arts. 86- 119 373 Climbs and Expeditions 3 17-35 1 Piana, Paul 298 PamirlTien Shari (Kyrgyzstan) 317 Pica de la Fortuna (Santa Vera CNZ, Bolivia) 260- Pamir-Alai (Kyrgyzstan) 310-315 263,261 Panch Chuli III (Garhwal, India) 353 Pica Integral (Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia) 256- Pancheri, Giorgio 3 14-3 15 257 Panmah Muztagh (Pakistan) 330-334 Pisco West (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 251 Paradise Bay (Antarctic Peninsula) 294 Pogorelov, Alexander 3 1 l-3 13 Paredon Peak (Chilean Patagonia) 269 Poi (Ndoto Mountains. Kenya) 298-300, 300 Parhat Brakk (Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan) Point 12,612’ (Wind River Mountains, Wyoming) 341-343,342 198 Paria Point (Zion Nat’1 Park, Utah) 188 Polohov, Vitaly 3 11-3 13 INDEX 457

Polte, Frank 323-325 William E. Nothdurft. 403-405 Pontoriero, Pablo 263 High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Porcelain Wall (Yosemite, California) 177 Everest and Other Unforgiving Places. Porter, Matt 2 16 David Breashears. 4 II-4 12 Port Lockroy (Antarctic Peninsula) 294 Last Climb: The Legendatyv Everest Potankin, lgor 56. 88, 335 Expeditions of George Mallor?;. David Potter. Dean 66-69. 170 Breashears and Audrey Salkeld, 406-407 Powell, Al 239-240 Life and Death on Mt. Everest: Sherpas and Prezelj. Marko art. 75-85, 85 Himalayan Mountaineering. Sherry B. Price, Mark 254-255 Ortner, 408-409 Pt. 3,600’ (Antarctic Peninsula) 292-293 A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Pt. 5520m (Naltar Mountains. Pakistan) 328 Beyond. Jim Whittaker, 401-403 Pt. 6262m a.k.a. Milarepa Peak (Nepal Himalaya) The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on 379-380. 380 Everest. Conrad Anker and David Puigdomenech, Miquel art, 115-l 19,116.347 Roberts, 405-406 Pumari Chhish (Hispa Muztagh, Pakistan) 348- Patagonia: Images of a Wild Land. David 349, 348 Neilson, 413-414 Sherman E.rposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Punta Filip (Argentine Patagonia) 279 Stories. John Sherman. 4 14-4 16 Punta Herron (Argentine Patagonia) 70. 280 Summit: l&torio Sella, Mountaineer and Pyke. Kath 186, 197-198, 197, 302-303 Photographer; the Year.s 1879-1909. Ansel Adams, David Brower. Greg Q Child, Paul Kalmes, and Wendy Watson, 412-413. Qionglai Mountains (China) art. 127-134, 131 Tibet’s Secret Mountain: the Triumph of Sepu Quinn, Joe 255 Kangri. Chris Bonington and Charles Qvarnstrom. Ludwig 334 Clarke, 396-398 The Totem Pole-And a Whole New Adventure. R Paul Pritchard, 400-401 Richards, Mark 246.247 Richardson Mountains (Canada) 224 Raimonde. Ron 189. 191-192 Rieck, Dr. Olaf 366-368 Rainbow Wall (Red Rocks. Nevada) 183 Right Twin Brother 190-191 Rakoposhi-Hanmosh Mountains (Paktstan) 329-330 Rignys Bjerg Mountains (Greenland) 238-239 Raksha Ural (Nepal) 360 Rime Peak (Wrangell-St.Elias Range, Alaska) 218- Ramsden, Paul 202. 275-276 219 Ranrapalca (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 253 Rinn, Tomti 89, 336-338 Ravanat. Bruno 322 Ritter, Mt. (Sierra Nevada, California) 168-169 Red Arch Mountain (Zion Nat’1 Park, Utah) 191 Robinson, Brady 282.341-343 Red Rocks (Nevada) 183 Rocky Mountain National Park (Colorado) Reddomain, Mt. (Gongka Mountains, China) 388 193-195 389,389 Rodden, Beth 302-303 Redeker, Melvin 327-328 Roderick, Paul 23,37.206,210 Regal Mountam (Wrangell-St.Elias Range. Alaska) Roosevelt Range (Greenland) 236-237 218.219 Roskelly, John 87 Reviews 396-4 I9 Roux, Frederic 338-339 30 Yearr of Climbing Magazine. Climbing Rowell, Galen 86. 197 Magazine. 409-411 Roy, Ujja1356 Ascent. Allen Steck. Steve Roper, and David Ruby Wall (Sierra Nevada, California) 180 Harris, ed., 398-400 Ruchkin, Alexander 307-308.3 10 The Best of Rock & Ice: An Anthology. Rtielker, Dieter 323-325, 366-368 Dougald MacDonald, Ed., 409-411 Rupp, Aischan 66,280 Close Calls: Climbing Mishaps and Near- Rusconi, Angelo 322-323 Death Experiences. John Long, 4 16-4 17 Russia (C.I.S.) Ghosts of E\serest: The Search for Mallory & Climbs and Expeditions 305-307 Irvme. Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A. Ruth Gorge (Alaska Range, Alaska) art. 37-45, 209- Johnson, Eric R. Simonson, as told to 216 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 2000

254-255,255 S Skinner, Todd 298 Skjerven, Per Ludvig 89. art. 91-99, 338 Slaggard, Mt. (St. Elias, Canada) 222-223 Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) 392-393 Slawinski, Raphael 230-231 Sakar Sar (Hispar Muztagh, Pakistan) 329 Slesova (Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) 311, 3 14-3 15, 315 Samoilenko, Igor 8889,335 Smallwood, John 245-246 San Rafael Swell (Utah) 185 Smart, Miles 66,67,69, 170 San Vicente, Ihaki 266-268 Smialy, Andrzej 268-269 Santa Cruz (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 249-250 Smith, Jay 177-178 Santa Vera Cruz (Bolivia) 260-263 Smith, Michael 259-260 Sarawak (Malaysian Borneo) 391-392 Snalam, Freddie 186- 187 Schmitt, Dennis 224,236-237 Snow Lake (Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, Pakistan) Schmitz, Kim 87, 127 349 Schoene M.D., Robert B. art. 160-166 Snowpatch Spire (Bugaboos, Canada) 228 Schweizer, Paul 33 l-333 Soda Springs Basin (Canyonlands Nat’1 Park, Utah) Schweizerland (Greenland) 239-241 185-186 Scott Island (Baffin Island, Canada) ati. 120-126, Sonkiss, Josh 216 234-235 Soral Este (Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia) 256 Scott, Mt. (Antarctic Peninsula) 292 Sosbun Tower (Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, Seattle, Mt. (St. Elias, Canada) 220-221,221 Pakistan) 350-351 Selters, Andy 87 Sourzac, Bruno an. 66-74.278 Semborski, Bob 212 South America Sentinel Range (Antarctica) 294 Climbs and Expeditions 249-291 Seung-Chul, Choi 88 South Tower (Torres de1 Paine Nat’1 Park, Chile) Seven Gables (Sierra Nevada, California) 182-183 272-275,273,274 Shamalo, Valery 306-307 Southeast Macaulay (St. Elias, Canada) 222-223 Shani Peak (Naltar Mountains, Pakistan) 327-328, Spangler, Kirby 188, 199-201 327 Spantik-Sosbun Mountains (Pakistan) 349-351 Shaqsha (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 250 Springer, Elmar 72,288-290 Shartse (Dhaulagiri Himal) 367 Squaretop (Wind River Mountains, Wyoming) 198- She1 Chakpa (Rakoposhi-Harimosh Mountains, 199 Pakistan) 329-330.329 &auf, Stane Belak 13 Sheldon, Dave 193-195 Shin, Dong Chul 344 St. Elias Range (Canada) 219-223 Shin, Youn-Jung 88 Staley, Rick 221-222 Shiprock (Navajolands, New Mexico) 192 Stanley, Georgie 379 The Ship’s Prow (Bafftn Island, Canada) art. 120- Stastny, David 271-272,272, 344-347 126,120,122,124,125,234 Steffani, Diego 356 Shipton Spire a.k.a. Hainablak Central Tower Stewart Valley (Baffin Island, Canada) 234 (Pakistan Karakoram) 100, 334 Stih, Dan 191 Shishapangma (Tibet) 381-382 Strassman, Michael 179-183 Shivling (Garhwal, India) 353 Strassner, J&g 3 15 Shkhara, Mt. (Caucasus, Russia) 306-307.306 Stremfelj, Andrej i, art. 75-85, 379 Shuang Qiao Valley (Qionglai Mountains) 129 Strickland, Mt. (St. Elias, Canada) 222-223 Siegrist, Stefan iv Sunchuli Pass (Cordillera Apolobamba. Bolivia) 256 Sierra Juarez (Mexico) 245-247 Suri Tondo (Mali, Africa) 295 Sierra Nevada (California) 168-169, 178-181 Surrette, Jim 88,335 Siguang Ri (Mahalangur Himal) i, art. 75-85,77,78 Sustad, Steve cover, art. 46-55.50, 51, 351-353 Siguang Ri Shar (Mahalangur Himal) art. 75-85.77, Suzuki, Ten&i 329 78 Suzuki, Tsuneo 356 Siguniang (Mahalangur Himal) 75-85, 391 Svab, Erik 249 Siguniang, Mount “Peak of Four Daughters” Svobodnaya Korea (“Free Korea Peak”) (Kyrgysky (Qionglai Mountains) art. 127-134, 128, 129 Alatau, Kyrgyzstan) 308-309, 309 Silhan, Filip 27 l-272, 344-347 Swanson, Al 172-173 Simonson, Eric 375-376 Swenson, Steve 340-341 Siula Grande (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru) Synnot, Mark 88, art. 100-107, 158,296-297, 335 INDEX

Colorado 193- 196 T Montana 199-201 Nevada 183 New Mexico 192 Tackle, Jack 127 Utah 183-191 Tague, Cameron 193, 253 Wyoming 196- 199 Tanahashi, Yasushi 388-389 Unnamed Peak (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 253 Tanaka, Seiko 13 Utah (United States) Tangkongma (Dhaulagiri Himal) 369 Climbs and Expeditions 183-191 Tangmonja (Nyangchen Tangla, Tibet) 373 Tarci Peak (Spantik-Sosbun Mountains, Pakistan) V 349 Tasermiut Fjord (Greenland) 243-245 Vaill, Ted 127-129 Temple Crag (Sierra Nevada, California) 179-180 Valley of the Gods (Utah) 184 Temple of Sinawava (Zion Nat’1 Park, Utah) 191 Vampire Peaks (Logan Mountains, Canada) 224-225 The Temptress (Zion Nat’1 Park, Utah) 187-188 Vampire Spire (Logan Mountains, Canada) 225-227, TerraVecchia. Joe vi, arf. 22-30, 26 226 Thalay Sagar (Garhwal Himalaya) art. 56-65, 57, van der Gragt, Elwin 327-328 59,60,62,64,65, 354 Vancouver, Mt. (St. Elias, Canada) 220-221 Thau, Brandon 169 Vennum, Walt 182-183 Thaw, Kevin 7 I. 282, 302-303 Vfdal, Silvia art. 115-l 19, 118, 295, 347 Third Recess Peak (Sierra Nevada, California) 182 Videl, Miguel Angel 360 Thomas, Greg art. I OO-107, 335 Viesturs, Ed 361 Thunder Mountain (Alaska Range, Alaska) 205-206 von Birckhahn, Carsten 265-266, 270-271 Thunder Peak (Miyar Nala, India) 356 Tibet ati. 75-85 w Climbs and Expeditions 369-382 Tierra de1 Fuego (Chilean Patagonia) 265-270 Waldhiir. Martin 3 15 Tipton, Eric 179 The Wall of Dykes (Pamir-Alai, Kyrgyzstan) Tivadar, Thomas 89. 335-336 310-311,311 Tobin, Carl 23 Walter, Markus 323-325, 366-368 Topping, Nigel 290-29 1 Washington’s Column (Yosemite) 66 Terre Egger (Argentine Patagonia) 70 Watkins Bjerge (Greenland) 241-243 Torrecita Tito Carrasco (Argentine Patagonia) 285- Wayker, Shane 212 286,286 Webster, Brian 229-230 Torres de1 Paine National Park (Chile) 270-275 Weisser, Pavlem 89, 336-338 Trango Pulpit (Pakistan Karakoram) West Kokshaal-Tau (Kyrgyzstan) 315-317,316 v, art. 90-99, 90. 93, 94,97,98, 336-338,337 West Maiden (Brooks Range, Alaska) 201 Trango Towers (Pakistan Karakoram) West Temple (Zion Nat’1 Park, Utah) 191 art. 86-l 14,86, 88, 90, 93, 94,!37,98,101, Western Doppah, Mt. (Caucasus, Russia) 305 102,105, 106,108, 111 Wickens, Phil 291 Tratnik, Emil I3 Wiegand, Giitz 360-361 Tsaronoro (Andringitra Nat’1 Park) 301-305, 302, Wiencke Island (Antarctic Peninsula) 292, 294 303 Wilford, Mark 39, 304.305 Tsavagattaq (Greenland) 241 Wilkinson, Dave 329-330 Tsuyoshi, Seki 327 Wills, Dave 204-206 Tukhvatulin, Ilyas 369 Wind River Mountains (Wyoming) 197-199 Turner, Mike 234 Witzel, Dana 259 Wold, Einar v, 89, art. 90-99, 338 U Wollums, Scott 87 Wondracek, Ivo 89, 336-338 Umdung Kangri (Ladakh. India) 357 Wood, Mike 215-216 United States arts. 22-45 Woods, Peter 127 Climbs and Expeditions 167-219 Woods, Simon 325-326 Alaska 22-45 Workman, Doug 34 l-343 Arizona 191-192 Workman, Jed 341-343 California 167-l 83 Wrangell-St. Elias Range (Alaska) 218-219 460 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 2000

Wright, Cedar 66, 170 Wyoming (United States) Climbs and Expeditions 196-199 Yadav, Mrs. Santosh 364,375 Yamagata, Ichiro 326 Yamamoti, Kinichi 370-371 Yamanoi, Taeko ii Yamanoi, Yasushi 350-35 1 Yanawaka (Cordillera Blanca, Peru) 252-253 Yasunobu, Fujita 327 Yeti Sar (Batura Muztagh, Pakistan) 324-325,325 Yosemite (California) art. 66-74 Climbs and Expeditions 169-178 Z

Zabalza, Mike1 347-348 Zadokhin, V. 305 Zahid, Ibrahim 341-343 Zak, Heinz 72,288-290 Zaman, Andrej 252 Zanetti, Andrea 3 14-3 15 “Zero Peak” (Mahalangur Himal) nrf. 75-85,77 Zeuvu Tower (Mandara Mountains, Cameroon) 296- 297,297 Zion National Park (Utah) 187-191 Zongo Glacier (Bolivia) 144 Zueva, Tamara 309-310 Zweiacker. Jean Michell 271