Pakistan 2011
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Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) the FELL and ROCK JOURNAL
Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by TERRY SULLIVAN No. 66 VOLUME XXIII (No. I) Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1978 CONTENTS PAGE Cat Among the Pigeons ... ... ... Ivan Waller 1 The Attempt on Latok II ... ... ... Pal Fearneough 1 The Engadine Marathon ... ... ... Gordon Dyke 12 Woubits - A Case History ... ... ... Ian Roper 19 More Shambles in the Alps Bob Allen 23 Annual Dinner Meet, 1976 Bill Comstive 28 Annual Dinner Meet, 1977 ... ... Maureen Linton 29 The London Section ... ... ... Margaret Darvall 31 High Level Walking in the Pennine Alps John Waddams 32 New Climbs and Notes ... ... ... Ed Grindley 44 In Memoriam... ... ... ... ... ... ... 60 The Library ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 76 Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 82 Officers of the Club 117 Meets 119 © FELL AND ROCK CLIMBINO CLUB PRINTED BY HILL & TYLER LTD., NOTTINGHAM Editor T. SULLIVAN B BLOCK UNIVERSITY PARK NOTTINGHAM Librarian IReviews MRS. J. FARRINGTON UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BAILRIGG LANCASTER New Climbs D. MILLER 31 BOSBURN DRIVE MELLOR BROOK BLACKBURN LANCASHIRE Obituary Notices R. BROTHERTON SILVER BIRCH FELL LANE PENRITH CUMBRIA Exchange Journals Please send these to the Librarian GAT AMONG THE PIGEONS Ivan Waller Memory is a strange thing. I once re-visited the Dolomites where I had climbed as a young man and thought I could remember in fair detail everywhere I had been. To my surprise I found all that remained in my mind were a few of the spect• acular peaks, and huge areas in between, I might never have seen before. I have no doubt my memory of events behaves in just the same way, and imagination tries to fill the gaps. -
Latok I, North Ridge, Attempt Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh We Would Have Done It, I'm Certain, but the Weather Was Constantly Against Us
AAC Publications Latok I, North Ridge, Attempt Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh We would have done it, I'm certain, but the weather was constantly against us. Our sirdar told us he couldn't remember such weather in August. It snowed for all but the first two days of our 15-day attempt on the 2,400m north ridge of Latok I (7,145m). The north ridge is complex and grueling, but the snowfall did not make it dangerous; through all the storms, avalanches passed to either side of us. Anton Kashevnik, Valery Shamalo, and I arrived at base camp on August 6. During the approach an incident occurred that would play a significant part in the outcome of the expedition. While crossing a stream, Valery slipped and fell head first into the water, eventually leading to a cough that would plague him on the climb. The rope came in handy, and Anton dragged him out a few meters downstream. Over the next few days, we tried to acclimatize on an unnamed 6,000m peak, though we were all quite well acclimatized already—Valery from Elbrus, Anton from Trango, and myself from Denali. Snowfall kept us at base camp until the 17th, when things started to improve and a forecast predicted 10 days of fine weather. We started that day up the couloir on the left side of the lower rock pillar of the north ridge, but on that day only managed 10 pitches. On the 18th we decided not to continue in the couloir but cross onto the right side of the ridge. -
„Die Mutterschaft Wird Mein 15. Achttausender“ Wollte Nur Noch Schlafen
QUERFELDEIN DAS AKTUELLE INTERVIEW kische Schreibweise: Txikon) sagte bei eurer Ankunft in Madrid, es sei dir plötzlich sehr schlecht gegangen und er habe dich teilweise tragen müssen. Pasaban: Ich war an dem Moment an- Edurne Pasaban: gelangt, in dem der Körper bereits sagt: Es ist vorbei. Ich habe Alex gebe- ten, mich einfach zurückzulassen. Ich FOTOS: NAIRZ „Die Mutterschaft wird mein 15. Achttausender“ wollte nur noch schlafen. Aber Alex Die spanische Extrembergsteigerin Edurne Pasaban hat mit dem Kangchendzönga und Ferran Latorre, der Kameramann von „Al fi lo de lo imposible“ (dem ihren zwölften Achttausender erreicht und beim Abstieg beinahe ihr Leben verloren. Fernsehprogramm, das Edurne spon- Ein Gespräch über den Kantsch, den vermeintlichen Wettkampf und ihre Zukunftspläne. sert und sie auf allen Besteigungen be- gleitet), haben dafür gesorgt, dass ich weiter gekämpft habe. Ich bin Alex FOTOS: FERRAN LATORRE LAND DER BERGE: Du bist nach deinem sehen und endlich ausruhen zu kön- bist du letztlich doch auf den Gipfel gegan- unendlich dankbar. Er hat sogar seinen Edurne Pasaban hat sich den höchsten Bergen der Welt verschrieben. Zwei 8000er fehlen noch. Gipfelsieg am Kangchendzönga und enor- nen. Es ist überwältigend, mit wie viel gen? Rucksack zurückgelassen, um mir men Schwierigkeiten beim Abstieg nun Herzlichkeit und Wärme ich hier Pasaban: Ich hatte mir in der Tat nach helfen zu können, und die ganze siv geworden, weil ich mir nicht sicher ist klar für mich: Die Mutterschaft, wieder zurück in Spanien. Wie fühlst du empfangen werde. Von allen Seiten den Erfahrungen am K2 geschworen, Nacht mit mir in Camp drei ausge- war, ob mir das Bergsteigen so viele das wird mein 15. -
A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan
The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan PhD Thesis Submitted by Ehsan Mehmood Khan, PhD Scholar Regn. No. NDU-PCS/PhD-13/F-017 Supervisor Dr Muhammad Khan Department of Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Faculties of Contemporary Studies (FCS) National Defence University (NDU) Islamabad 2017 ii The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan PhD Thesis Submitted by Ehsan Mehmood Khan, PhD Scholar Regn. No. NDU-PCS/PhD-13/F-017 Supervisor Dr Muhammad Khan This Dissertation is submitted to National Defence University, Islamabad in fulfilment for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Peace and Conflict Studies Department of Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Faculties of Contemporary Studies (FCS) National Defence University (NDU) Islamabad 2017 iii Thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirement for Doctor of Philosophy in Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Department NATIONAL DEFENCE UNIVERSITY Islamabad- Pakistan 2017 iv CERTIFICATE OF COMPLETION It is certified that the dissertation titled “The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan” written by Ehsan Mehmood Khan is based on original research and may be accepted towards the fulfilment of PhD Degree in Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS). ____________________ (Supervisor) ____________________ (External Examiner) Countersigned By ______________________ ____________________ (Controller of Examinations) (Head of the Department) v AUTHOR’S DECLARATION I hereby declare that this thesis titled “The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan” is based on my own research work. Sources of information have been acknowledged and a reference list has been appended. -
K-2 Gondogoro La Trek 2016
K-2 BC Gondogoro La Trek Concordia situated in the North West End of Baltoro glacier centered by Abruzi and Goodwin Austin glacier, in an alleviation of 4600m. Concordia is surrounded by the second world highest peak K-2 (8611M), and the other peaks as well likely, Broad Peak (8047mm, Gasherbrum I 8-68M, G-II, 8035, G-IV, 7925M, Saltoro Kangri 7742m, Chogolisa I 7668M, Chogolisa-II 7654M, Baltoro Kangri 7463m, Sia Kangri 7442m, Masherbrum Groups 7821m, Muztagh Tower 7272m, and the Baltoro Cathedral of Uhli and Trango groups from 5500m to 6700m. The trek starts from Askoli the last village of Shigar valley. The inhabitant are Balti of Kirgis origin, the legend that once it was accessible from Muztagh Pass to Yarkand to the North of China, which is blocked from last few dacads. The trek goes on through the traditional stages fixed by expedition, and by the Ministry of Tourism, Askoli to Jhola crossing Bardumal crossing at the foot of the Biafo glacier, walking on the right bank Braldu river cross on a foot bridge of Domordu River camp at the North of Dumordu valley. While walking in Baltoro glacier that panoramic view goes to deep to your sole. Duration: 21 days Altitude: 600- 5650-m Range: Karakorum Best Period: June to September End Region: Balt oro Camps: 13 Grade: Strenuous Hotels nights 08 D-01 Islamabad Arrive at Islamabad airport transfer to hotel, afternoon welfare meeting with Alpine club of Pakistan and city tour of Rawalpindi and Islamabad. Islamabad is new capital and well-planned city of Pakistan is lush green at the footsteps of Potwar hills. -
Piolets D'or 2017
NOVEMBER 2017 FILM PROJECTION AND AWARD CEREMONY Piolets d’Or 2017 FOR PIOLET D’OR RECIPIENTS During Grenoble’s annual “Rencontre Ciné Montagne" film An International Celebration of Grand Alpinism festival at the Palais des Sports, an entire evening will be dedicated to this year’s Piolet d’Or recipients, including a Press Release # 1 | February 2017 screening of selected ascents from 2016 at which the teams Focus will be present to receive their awards. APRIL 2017 NOVEMBER 2017 - Lifetime Achievement Award: Film projection Je Lowe and award ceremony for - International forum on the 2016 ascents evolution of the Piolets d’Or charter Grenoble, Base Camp for the 2017 Piolets d’Or! “Inspiration, action and sharing” will be the headlines for the 2017 edition of the Piolets d’Or. Famed alpinist and Grenoble native Lionel Terray famously referred to alpinists as “Conquerors of the Useless”. The Piolets d’Or are an annual celebration of a selection of the year’s greatest alpine-style climbs, chosen both for their aesthetics and for the sense of exploration and innovation of those so-called conquerors of the useless. This year, the Piolet d’Or is setting up its base camp in the city of Grenoble, the “capital of the Alps”. Taking on a new form, the event will include hands-on workshops and hopes to offer a high-quality event that reaches an even larger audience. The 2017 Piolet d’Or will take place in two parts IN APRIL 2017, MARK YOUR CALENDAR FOR TWO IMPORTANT PUBLIC EVENINGS: WEDNESDAY, APRIL 12TH - Alpes Congrès JEFF LOWE, LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD In 2017, the Piolets d’Or will celebrate the life and career of Jeff Lowe. -
Customer Magazine INSIDE 02/2015
HIGHLIGHT OF THIS ISSUE CONNECT. THE NEW ENCLOSURE FOR WIRED APPLICATIONS. INSIDE 02/2015 2|3 ”WIRED FOR A RELIABLE „ CONNECTION. INSIDE 02/2015 EDITORIAL DEAR READERS, You are holding the latest edition of our customer magazine To meet these requirements, we have now launched a new INSIDE in your hands. line of enclosures. The CONNECT consists of a convex and a flat enclosure shell with an operating area, both ends having In times of wireless transmission methods – Bluetooth, WLAN, identical recesses for using cable glands and/or end parts. NFC etc. – many devices still need fixed cable connections, By dispensing with screws – the two shells simply snap whether to guarantee a permanent power supply, or to together – there is a choice of visible/operating panels for guarantee reliable data transmission and processing to and the devices. from the device. Specially for wired applications, we have some enclosure ranges in our portfolio that can be used as desktop We hope you enjoy reading our magazine or mobile devices, on the wall or even freely suspended. The integrated cable glands made of soft TPE material seamlessly continue the high-quality design of the enclosures. The flexible cables can be protected from mechanical stress by means of strain relief devices. Dipl.-Vw. Martin Knörzer Managing Director 4|5 You can download the whole OKW catalogue, individual product sections, assembly instructions or certifications here in PDF format: www.okw.com, About OKW INSIDE 02/2015 ”RELAX AND MAKE „ NEW DISCOVERIES. RASPBERRY-CASE INDEX 2 EDITORIAL 16 CUSTOMER APPLICATION Stationary system for long-term EEG recordings. -
6805M Bulgarian Khane Valley Expedition 2011–Pakistan
● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012 NIKOLAY PETKOV, DOYCHINTATSUO (TIM)BOYANOV, INOUE MICHAIL MICHAILOV BTheulga Firstrian KAscenthane V ofal lLopchiney Expe dFengition (KG-2)2011– P6,805makistan AutumnFirst P 2009hase ExpeditionKarakoram toBi gthe W aKangrills Pro Garpoject 2 0East11/1 Mountains,2, Tagas Gr oTibetup (Supplemented by Tsuneo Miyamori) Tangra Tower 5,620m south face, No.33 on Wala map, unclimbed 30 JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012 ● Between September 10 and 22, 2011, a Bulgarian exploratory expedition visited the Khane Valley in Karakoram to investigate and assess to the possibilities for new big-wall routes and ascents on unclimbed summits. Our team included Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Mihail Mihaylov. We availed ourselves of information and maps by Jerzy Wala; other sources were Google Earth, the 2005 Annual Book of the Korean Students᾽ Alpine Federation as well as knowledge of local inhabitants of the Khane village. On September 11, 2011, after a two-day walk from Khane village, the team built a base camp at 4650 m on the right-hand (north) moraine of the Khane Glacier. We observed, photographed and measured the summits in the upper part of the valley: Hidden Tower (~,5830m), Agil (~5,680m), Tangra (~5,620m), Rila (~5,600m), Sofia (~5,550m), Meligo (~5,680m), Gray Tower (~5,300m), etc. The heights determined by us were measured with a GPS Garmin with an average horizontal accuracy of 6 to 8 m, corresponding to a vertical accuracy of about 20 meters. All other height figures, marked with the tilde sign (~), are tentative, taken from the Google Earth model for this region. -
The Karakoram
AAC Publications Return to the Karakoram First ascents on Changi Tower and K6 West STEVE: My dear friend and longtime cook and guide Ghulam Rasool sat next to me as our jeep rolled into the village of Hushe. It had been eight years since we had last seen each other, and I was happy to be reunited for another adventure. This would be our 10th expedition together and my 11th trip to the Pakistan-administered side of the Karakoram. A deteriorating security situation since my last trip, in 2007, combined with opportunities for first ascents in the eastern Karakoram, had caused me to shift my interest to the Indian side of the Line of Control, where I did two expeditions. Before returning to Pakistan’s mountains, I was waiting to see how the government—the Army and their intelligence services, in particular—would handle the growing threat from Islamic militant groups in the tribal areas near the border with Afghanistan. Many of these groups had been supported by the Pakistani security forces for years, serving as proxies in the conflicts in Afghanistan and India-administered Kashmir, but they had now turned on their benefactors. After several high-profile militant attacks, the Pakistan security forces and the public were sufficiently outraged for the military to launch full-scale offensives in the tribal areas. Security began to improve, and I felt it was time to climb in Pakistan again, visit my friends, and assess the security situation for myself. Over the years, territorial disputes between China, India, and Pakistan have restricted access to parts of the Karakoram, and the resulting “political wilderness” contains one of the largest collections of unclimbed 6,000- and 7,000-meter peaks in the world. -
Pakistan 2007
LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DICK ISHERWOOD Pakistan 2007 This summary was compiled from extensive notes collected by LG. We thank Mr Saad Tariq Siddique of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and the climbers named below, for their assistance. he Pakistan authorities approved 83 expeditions for 2007. As in Nepal, Tpeak fees have been steeply discounted to keep the climbers coming, and a permit for K2 now costs only $6000. Peaks below 6500m have no fee at all, and (perhaps the best news of all) liaison officers are no longer required outside the Baltoro region. On K2, 29 climbers from eight expeditions reached the summit, out of 130 starters. A Russian expedition climbed the west face by a new route, much of it on the very steep central rock buttress, using plenty of aid but apparently little oxygen, and put 11 people on the summit on 21/22 August after over two months’ effort. They considered the route to be more dif- ficult than the 2004 Russian ascent of the north face of Jannu, and it is almost certainly the hardest route to date on K2. A good deal of gear was left behind. Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov from Kazakhstan attempted a new line up a shallow spur on the north face of K2 late in the season, but aban- doned their attempt low down in bad weather and traversed onto the Japa- nese route on the north ridge, reaching the summit on 2 October. This was the latest summit date ever for K2 and another impressive achievement for this pair, climbing fast and unsupported and without oxygen. -
K2, Concordia and the Gondogoro La
K2, CONCORDIA AND THE GONDOGORO LA Trekking holiday across the Gondogoro La in the Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan Views of K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums from the Gondogoro La Walking holiday to Concordia and the Baltoro Glacier One of the world`s top 5 trekking adventures Experience the picturesque Hushe Valley in Pakistan HOLIDAY CODE GLA Pakistan, Trek & Walk, Climb, 22 Days 16 nights camping, 5 nights hotel, 21 breakfasts, 21 lunches, 21 dinners, max group size: 12, 15 days trekking, max altitude - 5585 metres VIEW DATES, PRICES & BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY HERE www.keadventure.com UK: +44(0) 17687 73966 US (toll-free): 1-888-630-4415 PAGE 2 K2, CONCORDIA AND THE GONDOGORO LA Introduction KE started out as the Karakoram Experience and ran our first ever holiday in Pakistan's Karakoram Mountains in 1984. Just a few years later (in 1992) we took the first ever group of trekkers across the Gondogoro La. Since then we have successfully crossed this spectacular pass over thirty times. This is an exceptional and ambitious trekking adventure, which starts out with a spectacular flight from Islamabad to the town of Skardu in Baltistan. From here, we drive to the remote village of Askole and trek via the Baltoro Glacier, passing famous peaks such as the Trango and Cathedral groups, the Lobsang Spire and mighty Masherbrum, en route to Concordia. This is one of the most spectacular locations on the planet and we have the opportunity to trek up the Godwin Austin Glacier to K2 Basecamp, before continuing on the Upper Baltoro Glacier towards Chogolisa and the 'golden throne' peak of Baltoro Kangri. -
Starke BERGFRAUEN
Berichte | Geschichte Starke BERGFRAUEN Vom „Sportsweib“ zur Profibergsteigerin – eine Kulturgeschichte des Frauenalpinismus. Rainer Amstädter, Historiker ie hat die „Fünf Schatzkam- Spanierin Edurne Pasaban mit lichen Entwicklung im letzten so lange im Korsett zurechtge- S mern des großen Schnees“ je 8 höchsten Bergen. Doch in Jahrhundert ähnlich. schnürt, bis sie dem männlichen am dritthöchsten Berg der Erde der anspruchsvollsten Spielart Weiblichkeitsideal entsprach; geöffnet: Im Mai 2006 ist der des Alpinismus, dem Höhen- Männerdominierte Hosen anzuziehen war für eine oberösterreichischen Alpinistin bergsteigen, sind Frauen mit Alpinklubs Frau undenkbar. Wollte sie den- Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner die Be- nicht einmal 10 % Anteil im- noch bergsteigen, musste sie mit steigung des 8.586 Meter hohen mer noch Ausnahmen. Warum Bergsteigen, in seinen Anfän- Korsett und Reifrock zurechtge- Kangchendzönga im Himalaya Frauen auch hier nur selten über gen immer auch Entdecken und richtet, in die Berge aufbrechen. gelungen. Mit 9 bestiegenen die sogenannte gläserne Decke Forschen, war im bürgerlichen 1871 erkletterte die Englände- 8.000er-Hauptgipfeln wird hinauskommen – das mag ein Weltbild des 19. Jahrhunderts rin Lucy Walker das Matterhorn Kaltenbrunner gefolgt von der Blick auf die Alpingeschichte der rationalen Natur des Man- im Flanellunterrock, nachdem Italienerin Nives Meroi und der zeigen; diese ist der gesellschaft- nes zugehörig. Die Frau wurde sie den lästigen Reifrock hinter 8 |BERGAUF 02-2007 Geschichte | Berichte Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner im den großen Nordwänden der die Polin Wanda Rutkiewicz Lager III auf ca. 7.000 m, Westalpen ebenso anzutreffen zur Protagonistin der alpinen Gascherbrum I wie in den Südwänden der Dolo- Frauenemanzipation. 1978 Foto R. Dujmovits, www.amical.de miten. Die Genferin Loulou Bou- besteigt sie den Everest als ers- laz, die Französin Simone Badier te Europäerin und macht die und die Italienerin Silvia Metzel- reinen Frauenexpeditionen tin machen das von der österrei- gesellschaftsfähig – gleichsam ternahmen.