La Salle Magazine Summer 1979 La Salle University
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Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) the FELL and ROCK JOURNAL
Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by TERRY SULLIVAN No. 66 VOLUME XXIII (No. I) Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1978 CONTENTS PAGE Cat Among the Pigeons ... ... ... Ivan Waller 1 The Attempt on Latok II ... ... ... Pal Fearneough 1 The Engadine Marathon ... ... ... Gordon Dyke 12 Woubits - A Case History ... ... ... Ian Roper 19 More Shambles in the Alps Bob Allen 23 Annual Dinner Meet, 1976 Bill Comstive 28 Annual Dinner Meet, 1977 ... ... Maureen Linton 29 The London Section ... ... ... Margaret Darvall 31 High Level Walking in the Pennine Alps John Waddams 32 New Climbs and Notes ... ... ... Ed Grindley 44 In Memoriam... ... ... ... ... ... ... 60 The Library ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 76 Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 82 Officers of the Club 117 Meets 119 © FELL AND ROCK CLIMBINO CLUB PRINTED BY HILL & TYLER LTD., NOTTINGHAM Editor T. SULLIVAN B BLOCK UNIVERSITY PARK NOTTINGHAM Librarian IReviews MRS. J. FARRINGTON UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BAILRIGG LANCASTER New Climbs D. MILLER 31 BOSBURN DRIVE MELLOR BROOK BLACKBURN LANCASHIRE Obituary Notices R. BROTHERTON SILVER BIRCH FELL LANE PENRITH CUMBRIA Exchange Journals Please send these to the Librarian GAT AMONG THE PIGEONS Ivan Waller Memory is a strange thing. I once re-visited the Dolomites where I had climbed as a young man and thought I could remember in fair detail everywhere I had been. To my surprise I found all that remained in my mind were a few of the spect• acular peaks, and huge areas in between, I might never have seen before. I have no doubt my memory of events behaves in just the same way, and imagination tries to fill the gaps. -
Latok I, North Ridge, Attempt Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh We Would Have Done It, I'm Certain, but the Weather Was Constantly Against Us
AAC Publications Latok I, North Ridge, Attempt Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh We would have done it, I'm certain, but the weather was constantly against us. Our sirdar told us he couldn't remember such weather in August. It snowed for all but the first two days of our 15-day attempt on the 2,400m north ridge of Latok I (7,145m). The north ridge is complex and grueling, but the snowfall did not make it dangerous; through all the storms, avalanches passed to either side of us. Anton Kashevnik, Valery Shamalo, and I arrived at base camp on August 6. During the approach an incident occurred that would play a significant part in the outcome of the expedition. While crossing a stream, Valery slipped and fell head first into the water, eventually leading to a cough that would plague him on the climb. The rope came in handy, and Anton dragged him out a few meters downstream. Over the next few days, we tried to acclimatize on an unnamed 6,000m peak, though we were all quite well acclimatized already—Valery from Elbrus, Anton from Trango, and myself from Denali. Snowfall kept us at base camp until the 17th, when things started to improve and a forecast predicted 10 days of fine weather. We started that day up the couloir on the left side of the lower rock pillar of the north ridge, but on that day only managed 10 pitches. On the 18th we decided not to continue in the couloir but cross onto the right side of the ridge. -
South America and Antarctica 1993
DAVID SHARMAN South America and Antarctica 1993 Thanks are due to Marcelo Scanu, Gerhard Feichtenschlager, Pavle Kozjek and Franci Savenc for their invaluable contributions. Most of the activity this year has continued to centre on the developed countries of Argentina and Chile where an increasing number of teams are producing committing big-wall routes in a variety of styles. In Peru the situation continues to improve, with Slovenians notably active this summer. Venezuela Aratitiyope Paul Ridgeway, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana and a camera crew made a difficult approach through jungle to attempt the second ascent of Boivin's 1984 route up a prominent rib on the right side of the 600m E face of this flat-topped tower. Peru - Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash Both the weather and the security situation were considerably more set tled in Peru this year with New Zealand climbers returning to the Huay huash after a long absence following the 1988 shootout. They made an attempt on the W face of Yerupaja, stopping just short of the summit. Slovenians dominated the new route scene in the Blanca where general levels of activity continued to rise. Artesonraju (6025m) On 9July 1993 Tomo Sbrizaj and Sebastian Semrajc climbed the SE face via a direct line up the triangular rock buttress to a junction with the normal route. On 18 July they returned with Borut Naglic and repeated the route, Triangle, continuing to the summit (TD+ 60°- 85° III 600m). Andre Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed the snowy SW face through seracs on the left side but it is not clear how this differs from' previous ascents of this face. -
476 the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Glaciers That Our Access Was Finally Made Through the Mountain Rampart
476 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL glaciers that our access was finally made through the mountain rampart. One group operated there and climbed some of the high-grade towers by stylish and demanding routes, while the other group climbed from a hid- den loch, ringed by attractive peaks, north of the valley and intermingled with the mountains visited by the 1971 St. Andrews expedition (A.A.J., 1972. 18: 1, p. 156). At the halfway stage we regrouped for new objec- tives in the side valleys close to Base Camp, while for the final efforts we placed another party by canoe amongst the most easterly of the smooth and sheer pinnacles of the “Land of the Towers,” while another canoe party voyaged east to climb on the islands of Pamiagdluk and Quvernit. Weather conditions were excellent throughout the summer: most climbs were done on windless and sunny days and bivouacs were seldom contem- plated by the parties abseiling down in the night gloom. Two mountains may illustrate the nature of the routes: Angiartarfik (1845 meters or 6053 feet; Grade III), a complex massive peak above Base Camp, was ascended by front-pointing in crampons up 2300 feet of frozen high-angled snow and then descended on the same slope in soft thawing slush: this, the easiest route on the peak, became impracticable by mid-July when the snow melted off to expose a crevassed slope of green ice; Twin Pillars of Pamiagdluk (1373 meters or 4505 feet; Grade V), a welded pair of abrupt pinnacles comprising the highest peak on this island, was climbed in a three-day sortie by traversing on to its steep slabby east wall and following a thin 300-metre line to the summit crest. -
A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan
The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan PhD Thesis Submitted by Ehsan Mehmood Khan, PhD Scholar Regn. No. NDU-PCS/PhD-13/F-017 Supervisor Dr Muhammad Khan Department of Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Faculties of Contemporary Studies (FCS) National Defence University (NDU) Islamabad 2017 ii The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan PhD Thesis Submitted by Ehsan Mehmood Khan, PhD Scholar Regn. No. NDU-PCS/PhD-13/F-017 Supervisor Dr Muhammad Khan This Dissertation is submitted to National Defence University, Islamabad in fulfilment for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Peace and Conflict Studies Department of Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Faculties of Contemporary Studies (FCS) National Defence University (NDU) Islamabad 2017 iii Thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirement for Doctor of Philosophy in Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS) Department NATIONAL DEFENCE UNIVERSITY Islamabad- Pakistan 2017 iv CERTIFICATE OF COMPLETION It is certified that the dissertation titled “The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan” written by Ehsan Mehmood Khan is based on original research and may be accepted towards the fulfilment of PhD Degree in Peace and Conflict Studies (PCS). ____________________ (Supervisor) ____________________ (External Examiner) Countersigned By ______________________ ____________________ (Controller of Examinations) (Head of the Department) v AUTHOR’S DECLARATION I hereby declare that this thesis titled “The Role of Geography in Human Security: A Case Study of Gilgit-Baltistan” is based on my own research work. Sources of information have been acknowledged and a reference list has been appended. -
Cerros Fitz Roy Y Torre.Pdf
Desde lo profundo CERROS FITZ ROY Y TORRE de la Tierra Andrés Kosmal1 y Fernando Miranda2 Sitios de Interés Geológico de la República Argentina EDITOR Comisión Sitios de Interés Geológico de la República Argentina (CSIGA): Gabriela Anselmi, Alberto Ardolino, Alicia Echevarría, Mariela Etcheverría, Mario Franchi, Silvia Lagorio, Hebe Lema, Fernando Miranda y Claudia Negro COORDINACIÓN Alberto Ardolino y Hebe Lema DISEÑO EDITORIAL Daniel Rastelli Referencia bibliográfica Sitios de Interés Geológico de la República Argentina. CSIGA (Ed.) Instituto de Geología y Recursos Minerales. Servicio Geológico Minero Argentino, Anales 46, II, 461 págs., Buenos Aires. 2008. ISSN 0328-2325 Es propiedad del SEGEMAR • Prohibida su reproducción Publicado con la colaboración de la Fundación Empremin Av. General Paz 5445 (Colectora provincia) Av. General Paz 5445 (Colectora provincia) Edificio 14 - 1650 - San Martín - Buenos Aires Edificio 25 - 1650 - San Martín - Buenos Aires República Argentina República Argentina www.segemar.gov.ar | [email protected] | [email protected] BUENOS AIRES - 2008 Desde lo profundo CERROS FITZ ROY Y TORRE de la Tierra Andrés Kosmal1 y Fernando Miranda2 RESUMEN Entre las montañas de la Cordillera Patagónica Austral, denominación dada a los Andes en el extremo meridional continental sudamericano, se yerguen de manera singular las rocas graníticas que componen el macizo del cerro Fitz Roy (Chaltén). Al norte del lago Viedma, en la provincia de Santa Cruz y dentro del Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, estas rocas conforman una serie de magníficas torres y agujas que, flanqueadas por la estepa patagónica al este y el Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur al oeste, constituyen una de las maravillas naturales de la República Argentina. -
Piolets D'or 2017
NOVEMBER 2017 FILM PROJECTION AND AWARD CEREMONY Piolets d’Or 2017 FOR PIOLET D’OR RECIPIENTS During Grenoble’s annual “Rencontre Ciné Montagne" film An International Celebration of Grand Alpinism festival at the Palais des Sports, an entire evening will be dedicated to this year’s Piolet d’Or recipients, including a Press Release # 1 | February 2017 screening of selected ascents from 2016 at which the teams Focus will be present to receive their awards. APRIL 2017 NOVEMBER 2017 - Lifetime Achievement Award: Film projection Je Lowe and award ceremony for - International forum on the 2016 ascents evolution of the Piolets d’Or charter Grenoble, Base Camp for the 2017 Piolets d’Or! “Inspiration, action and sharing” will be the headlines for the 2017 edition of the Piolets d’Or. Famed alpinist and Grenoble native Lionel Terray famously referred to alpinists as “Conquerors of the Useless”. The Piolets d’Or are an annual celebration of a selection of the year’s greatest alpine-style climbs, chosen both for their aesthetics and for the sense of exploration and innovation of those so-called conquerors of the useless. This year, the Piolet d’Or is setting up its base camp in the city of Grenoble, the “capital of the Alps”. Taking on a new form, the event will include hands-on workshops and hopes to offer a high-quality event that reaches an even larger audience. The 2017 Piolet d’Or will take place in two parts IN APRIL 2017, MARK YOUR CALENDAR FOR TWO IMPORTANT PUBLIC EVENINGS: WEDNESDAY, APRIL 12TH - Alpes Congrès JEFF LOWE, LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD In 2017, the Piolets d’Or will celebrate the life and career of Jeff Lowe. -
Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments. -
SMC Zoom Lecture Tuesday 9 February 2021 Tom Livingstone - Latok 1
SMC Zoom lecture Tuesday 9 February 2021 Tom Livingstone - Latok 1 The Club will present a talk via Zoom on Tuesday 9 February at 8.00pm by Tom Livingstone on his incredible ascent of Latok 1 (7145m) in Pakistan. In a sub-range of Pakistan’s Karakoram called Panmah Muztagh lies a cluster of mountains: Latok I (7,145m), Latok II (7,108m), Latok III (6,949m) and Latok IV (6,456m). Though Latok I was first climbed in 1979 via the East Ridge by two teams of Japanese climbers, the grand prize on that mountain, the 2,500m North Ridge had rejected some 30 teams who attempted it (40 in total if you count those that never made it past base-camp) since 1978. That was until Aleš Česen (Slovakia), Luka Stražar (Slovakia) and Tom Livingstone (UK) completed the first ascent of the north side of the mountain. Base-camp to base-camp the trio spent seven days climbing two-thirds of the ridge before cutting right and heading up the north face to reach the summit. Tom Livingstone from Llanberis works as an outdoor instructor. In 2017 he made the first winter ascent of British Columbia’s Slesse Mountain (2,400m) via the Navigator Wall (700m, 6b M7+ R) with the late Marc Andre Leclerc. He made the youngest British ascent of the Cassin Ridge (AK5) on Denali and in spring 2017 he attempted the Slovak Direct on the south face of Denali but retreated due to weather. This is definitely the way to enjoy mountaineering on a dark February night! Support on how to Join the Meeting If you are new to Zoom then this short video gives some basic details about how to join a meeting. -
Torre Egger's Southeast Face
Torre Egger’s Southeast Face S ilv o K a r o , Domžale Alpine Club, Yugoslavia A L L THREE OF US, Janez Jeglič, Franc Knez and I, had been to Patagonia twice before. In 1983 we had made the first ascent of the great dihedral on Fitz Roy’s east face and a new route on the Aguja Mermoz too. (A.A.J., 1984, pages 218-219). On January 16, 1986, together with three other members of a Yugoslavian expedition, we had reached Cerro Torre’s summit, having climbed a difficult new route on the east face (A.A.J., 1987, pages 114-122). Our third sojourn in Patagonia in November and December of 1986 was the most successful of all. We scaled the southeast face of Torre Egger, the impressive tower which lies in the shadow of the higher Cerro Torre. Our route was the most direct one and abounds in extreme difficulties. We stood on the top on December 7, 1986. Later in December we climbed a new route on the north face of El Mocho. On November 9, we pitched Base Camp beside the Laguna Torre. During the following days we carried food and equipment to a bivouac site at the foot of the southeast face. We had to make use of every hour of decent weather; changes are sudden and dramatic. We outwitted the weather, often walking from Base Camp to the bivouac in order to climb that same day. November 18. This was the first real day of climbing. In cascades of water and with falling snow, we climbed the first 180 meters of ice. -
Families Crowdfund a $200,000 Search for Two Climbers Missing In
Families Crowdfund a $200,000 Search for Two Climbers Missing in Pakistan Friends and loved ones scramble to arrange a risky, high-altitude search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson on one of the most extreme mountains on Earth. By Andrew Bisharat PUBLISHED SEPTEMBER 7, 2016 Climbers on skis approach the 23,901-foot Ogre I in Pakistan’s Karakoram Mountains. PHOTOGRAPH BY ACE KVALE, AURORA PHOTOS There was radio silence in Utah on the evening of August 25, 2016. and family came together and arranged something remarkable, and possibly unprecedented. Climbers Kyle Dempster, 33, and Scott Adamson, 34, were 12 hours late in returning from their scheduled five-day alpine climb in Pakistan. Within just a few days of the climbers’ missed deadline, this small network of friends and family raised nearly $200,000 to cover search costs; cata- Back home, their family and friends started to worry—perhaps with good lyzed diplomatic support within American, Swiss, and Pakistani embassies; reason. and convinced high ranks within Pakistan’s military to execute an order to go Dempster and Adamson were trying to tackle one of the most extreme forward with a risky, high-altitude helicopter search. mountaineering challenges in the world: the unclimbed north face of the It was all anyone could do to give the two Americans every last chance. Ogre II, a peak in northern Pakistan. The Ogre I (23,901 feet/7,285 meters) and Ogre II (22,835 feet/6,960 Finding Hope meters) are separate summits that comprise a craggy massif that is officially Driving from Wyoming to Utah, Savannah Cummins texted her friend Angela called Baintha Brakk. -
Karakorum Expedition 2016 Expeditionsbericht Für Den Deutschen Alpenverein
Karakorum Expedition 2016 Expeditionsbericht für den Deutschen Alpenverein Inhaltsverzeichnis 1. Expeditionsziel………………………………………………………………..…….…….….…...…... 2 2. Anfahrt über den Barbusar Pass und Karakorum Highway..….……….……...……. 2 3. Anmarsch von Askole bis Maedan Gletscher………………………………..…..…...……. 3 4. Basislager – Hochlager – Gipfeltage………………………………………………………..…...6 5. Allgemeine Infos, Orga, Expeditionskosten und Vorschläge für Neutouren..…8 6. Danksagung..……………………………………………………………………...……………..………12 Literatur- und Kartenverzeichnis…..……………………………………………………..……….13 Von Matthias Bohe, Harry Kirschenhofer, Philipp Moser, Chris Romeike und Christof Nettekoven - 1 - 1. Das Expeditionsziel Die atemberauende Hochgebirgslandschaft des Karakorum bietet auch heute noch eine Vielzahl an Möglichkeiten unberührte Täler und unbestiegene Berge zu erforschen. Einen ganz besonderen Reiz übt dabei der Central Karakorum in Baltistan auf uns aus. Einige der mächtigsten Berge des Karakorum sind hier zu finden. Und neben den berühmten Gipfeln wie K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I und II, Masherbrum, Latok, Ogre und den Trango Türmen - um nur einige zu nennen - locken uns die vielen unbekannten und unbestiegenen Gipfel dieses Berglabyrinths in die weit entlegenen Täler. Diesmal folgen wir den Spuren der ersten westlichen Forscher und Entdecker zum westlichen Muztagh Pass, um in den Seitentälern des Maedan auf die Suche nach unbestiegenen 6.000ern zu gehen. Das Panmah Gebiet und der Chiring Gletscher wurden von Menschen zuerst auf dem Weg zum Western Muztagh Pass betreten,