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The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society
The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society Heather Langford Theses submitted for the degree of Master of Arts Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Centre of Asian Studies University of Adelaide May 2009 ii Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the research requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Centre of Asian Studies School of Humanities and Social Sciences Adelaide University 2009 iii Table of Contents 1. Introduction.........................................................................................1 1.1. Literature Review..............................................................................13 1.2. Chapter summary ..............................................................................17 1.3. Conclusion ........................................................................................19 2. Background .......................................................................................20 2.1. Pre Han History.................................................................................20 2.2. Qin Dynasty ......................................................................................24 2.3. The Han Dynasty...............................................................................25 2.3.1. Trade with the West............................................................................. 30 2.4. Conclusion ........................................................................................32 3. Textiles and Technology....................................................................33 -
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
An Attempt to Analyze the Implicitness of the Aesthetic Features of Chinese
International Conference on Education, Language, Art and Intercultural Communication (ICELAIC 2014) An Attempt to Analyze the Implicitness of the Aesthetic Features of Chinese Art Taking the Aesthetic Features of Women’s Clothing in the Flourishing Period of Tang Dynasty as an Example Zhaofang Xv Arts and Design School Huanghe Science and Technology College Zhengzhou, China, 450005 Abstract—Tang Dynasty, at the height of power and inspiring in the history of costumes. The major matching splendor in the Chinese Feudal Society, had not only a stable forms of Tang clothing are Ruqun dress, Dressing as man, political situation, a prosperous economy, and a brilliant and Hu clothing. culture, but also had clothing which was splendid, rich, colourful, free-spirited, luxurious and liberated. The strong Overall, the strong ethos and the joyous creativeness of ethos and the joyous creativeness of Tang Clothing were Tang Clothing were mainly embodied in Women’s Clothing. mainly embodied in Women’s Clothing. Females in Tang Females in Tang Dynasty, especially those lived in the Dynasty, especially those lived in the flourishing period, had flourishing period, had their daily attires bold, luxurious, and their daily attires bold, luxurious, and tailored to highlight the tailored to highlight the beauty of the body, and in their way beauty of the body,and in their way they abandoned the they abandoned the affected and restrained clothing style of affected and restrained clothing style of former times and former times and replaced it with a lively, jubilate, liberated replaced it with a lively, jubilate, liberated and magnanimous and magnanimous clothing style. -
I. Guides to the State of the Field Song Research Tools
I. Guides to the State of the Field Page 1 of 125 Song Research Tools home | about | faq I. Guides to the State of the Field The late Etienne Balazs began formulating plans for an international, collaborative study of the Sung period as early as 1949 and formally initiated the "Sung Project" in 1954. The Project was responsible for some of the most valuable reference tools in this guide. Its history is related in: Ref (W) DS751.S86 1978x Yves Hervouet, "Introduction," (W) DS751.S86 1978x A Sung Bibliography Loc: Z3102 .S77 Hong Kong: The Chinese University Press, 1978, pp. vii-xiv. I.A. SOCIETIES, NEWSLETTERS, AND JOURNALS Societies Japan: Sōdaishi kenkyūkai 宋代史研究会 (Society for Song Studies): http://home.hiroshima-u.ac.jp/songdai/songdaishi-yanjiuhui.htm This site contains announcements for and reports on the annual meetings of the society, links to related sites, a bibliography of Japanese scholarship on Song studies (1982-2002) and a directory of Japanese scholars working in the field. Sōdaishi danwakai 宋代史談話會 (Society for the Study of Song History in Japan) http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~songsong/songdai/danwakai.html Established in 1997 as a forum and reading group for young scholars of Song history active in Kyoto-Osaka-Kobe region. Includes meeting information, list of readings, and an announcement board. Sōdai shibun kenkyūkai 宋代詩文研究會 (Society for the Study of Song Literature) http://www9.big.or.jp/~co-ume/song/ http://www9.big.or.jp/~co-ume/song/danwakai.htm Includes announcements and a mailing list. Registration is required to get access to the full site. -
Indumenta Revista Museo Del Traje
INDUMENTA REVISTA MUSEO DEL TRAJE 02/2011 INDUMENTA Revista Museo del Traje 02/2011 www.mcu.es Catálogo de publicaciones de la AGE http://publicacionesoficiales.boe.es/ MINISTERIO DE CULTURA Edita: © SECRETARÍA GENERAL TÉCNICA Subdirección General de Publicaciones, Información y Documentación © De los textos y las fotografías: sus autores NIPO: 551-11-074-6 ISSN: 1133-8741 MINISTERIO DE CULTURA Ángeles González-Sinde Ministra de Cultura Mercedes E. del Palacio Tascón Subsecretaria de Cultura Ángeles Albert Directora General de Bellas Artes y Bienes Culturales Consejo de redacción Rafael García Serrano José Luis Mingote Calderón Concha Herranz Rodríguez Helena López de Hierro D’ Audabere M.ª Antonia Herradón Figueroa Irene Seco Serra Elvira González Asenjo Juan Gutiérrez Fernández-Barja Coordinación preedición Montse Moya González M.ª José Pacheco Portela Corrección de estilo Ana Guerrero Melguizo Información e intercambio Museo del Traje. CIPE Fotografías de piezas del Museo Avda. Juan de Herrera, 2 Lucía Ybarra Zubiaga 28040 Madrid José Luis García Romero Tel.: 91 550 47 00 Miguel Ángel Otero Ibáñez Fax.: 91 544 69 70 David Serrano Pascual http://museodeltraje.mcu.es Munio Rodil Ares [email protected] ÍNDICE Pág. La moda en la Restauración, 1868-1890......................................................................................................................8 Pablo Peña González Algunas consideraciones sobre el zapato femenino burgués (1860-1900) a través de la revista La Moda Elegante...................................................................................................................37 Marta Blanco Carpintero La fortuna de un motivo. El diseño de la granada en el tejido modernista catalán.....................................................................................50 Joan Miquel Llodrà Nogueras María Rosa Salvador o la pasión por la moda........................................................................................................78 Lola Gavarrón Monedas romanas en las colecciones del Museo del Traje. -
Hanfu Elements in Modern Fashion Design and Innovation
Asian Social Science; Vol. 10, No. 13; 2014 ISSN 1911-2017 E-ISSN 1911-2025 Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education Hanfu Elements in Modern Fashion Design and Innovation Shaoying Hu1 1 College of Textiles & Garments, Southwest University, Chongqing, China Correspondence: Shaoying Hu, College of Textiles & Garments, Southwest University, Chongqing, China. Tel: 86-138-8347-8114. E-mail: [email protected] Received: March 30, 2014 Accepted: April 25, 2014 Online Published: June 25, 2014 doi:10.5539/ass.v10n13p89 URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v10n13p89 Abstract Combining with Chinese traditional Han costumes and modern fashion, this paper expounds the relationship from the aspects of fashion styles, garment structure, patterns, fabrics, etc. And with different concrete examples, every aspect was made a detail analysis to discuss how Hanfu elements are used in modern fashion design, and we may come to a conclusion that traditional Chinese costume culture is an important source of modern fashion design. Accordingly, we carried on a research on modern fashion design, with having important cultural inheritance value and design significance for modern dress. Keywords: Han costume, elements, modern fashion design, features 1. Introduction Hanfu, also known as "Hanzhuang" or "Huafu", is namely national costume of Han Chinese people. The concept of Hanfu is distinguished from the broader concept of traditional Chinese clothing. The ancient Chinese called Hanfu as Yiguan. As the ancient Hu people’s traditional costume to be known as "Hufu", the Han Chinese traditional dress is referred to as "Hanfu". The succession of Hanfu elements in fashion is called as the fashion localization with Hanfu elements, also known as modern Han-style fashion. -
Research on Chinese Influence on Western Fashion Based on Fashion Magazine from 1970 to 1979
Asian Social Science; Vol. 16, No. 2; 2020 ISSN 1911-2017 E-ISSN 1911-2025 Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education Research on Chinese Influence on Western Fashion Based on Fashion Magazine from 1970 to 1979 Yuru Ma 1 & Xiangyang Bian1 1 Fashion & Art Design Institute, Donghua University, Shanghai, China Correspondence: Xiangyang Bian, Fashion & Art Design Institute, Donghua University, 1882 West Yan’an Road, Changning District, Shanghai, China. Tel: 137-0171-5417. E-mail: [email protected] Received: November 28, 2019 Accepted: December 28, 2019 Online Published: January 31, 2020 doi:10.5539/ass.v16n2p11 URL: https://doi.org/10.5539/ass.v16n2p11 Abstract The decade of 1970s was a peak of Chinese influence on Western fashion. This article was intended to reveal the categories and design characteristics of Chinese-influenced clothing with classified statistical method based on collecting a total of 295 sets of designs presented during 1970-1979 from four fashion magazines. The underlying reasons for the popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing on western fashion were also analyzed and summarized. The research results showed that the Chinese-influenced clothing included three categories: outdoor daily clothes, indoor home wears and evening dresses, presenting neutral, romantic and luxury respectively. The popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing was mainly a result of some national and international factors, including anti-fashion aesthetics in the western society, the normalization of Sino-American relation and the development of Hong Kong trade. Keywords: China, dress, history, design, western Chinoiserie was originated from French when the maritime trade developed between China and France in 16th century. -
Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture; 9781592650194; 78 Pages; Shaorong Yang; Long River Press, 2004
2004; Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture; 9781592650194; 78 pages; Shaorong Yang; Long River Press, 2004 Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture Chinese Textiles Historic English Costumes and How to Make Them English Costume from the Seventeenth Through the Nineteenth Centuries Traditional Chinese costumes ä¸å›½ä¼ 统æœé¥° Costumes of the Greeks and Romans Ert 's Fashion Designs Nineteenth-century Costume and Fashion, Volume 6 The clothing materials were exquisite, the structure was natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments were splendid. 15  Women's dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in China's history. Chinese Cheongsam  The cheongsam, or Qipao in Chinese, is evolved from a kind of ancient clothing of Manchu ethnic minority. In ancient times, it generally referred to long gowns worn by the people of Manchuria, Mongolia.  In the early years of the Qing Dynasty (16441911), long gowns featured collarless, narrow sleeves in the shape of a horse's hoof, buttons down the left front, four slits and a fitting waist. For thousands of years, traditional Chinese family structure was strictly patriarchal, with the father or eldest male as the head of the household as well as provider and guide. Women had little power in the family system, and the patriarch held absolute authority. Both tradition and laws upheld this patriarchal structure. Yang, Shaorong. "Traditional Chinese clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture." Long River Press, 2004. (Aug. The basic features of traditional Chinese clothing are cross-collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left and tying with sash. -
ASIAN ART Monday 8 and Tuesday 9 May 2017 Knightsbridge, London
ASIAN ART Monday 8 and Tuesday 9 May 2017 Knightsbridge, London INTERNATIONAL CHINESE CERAMICS AND WORKS OF ART TEAM Colin Sheaf Dessa Goddard Asaph Hyman ASIA AND AUSTRALIA Xibo Wang Gigi Yu John Chong Edward Wilkinson* Yvett Klein Hong Kong Hong Kong Hong Kong Hong Kong Sydney EUROPE Benedetta Mottino Sing Yan Choy Edward Luper Rachel Hyman Rosangela Assennato Ben Law Smith Ian Glennie Asha Edwards London, London, London, London, London, London, Edinburgh Edinburgh New Bond Street New Bond Street New Bond Street Knightsbridge Knightsbridge Knightsbridge USA Bruce MacLaren Nicholas Rice Ming Hua Harold Yeo Mark Rasmussen* Doris Jin Huang* New York New York New York New York New York New York Henry Kleinhenz Daniel Herskee Ling Shang San Francisco San Francisco San Francisco ASIA REPRESENTATIVES Summer Fang Bernadette Rankine Taipei Singapore Bonhams 1793 Limited Bonhams International Board Bonhams UK Ltd Directors Registered No. 4326560 Robert Brooks Co-Chairman, Colin Sheaf Chairman, Gordon McFarlan, Andrew McKenzie, Registered Office: Montpelier Galleries Malcolm Barber Co-Chairman, Harvey Cammell Deputy Chairman, Simon Mitchell, Jeff Muse, Mike Neill, Montpelier Street, London SW7 1HH Colin Sheaf Deputy Chairman, Antony Bennett, Matthew Bradbury, Charlie O’Brien, Giles Peppiatt, India Phillips, Matthew Girling CEO, Lucinda Bredin, Simon Cottle, Andrew Currie, Peter Rees, John Sandon, Tim Schofield, +44 (0) 20 7393 3900 Patrick Meade Group Vice Chairman, Paul Davidson, Jean Ghika, Veronique Scorer, James Stratton, Ralph Taylor, +44 (0) 20 7393 3905 fax Jon Baddeley, Rupert Banner, Geoffrey Davies, Charles Graham-Campbell, Matthew Haley, Charlie Thomas, David Williams, Jonathan Fairhurst, Asaph Hyman, James Knight, Richard Harvey, Robin Hereford, David Johnson, Michael Wynell-Mayow, Suzannah Yip. -
Costume and Courtly Culture in Ming China and Mughal India
PEOPLE: International Journal of Social Sciences ISSN 2454-5899 Murali & Gupta, 2019 Volume 5 Issue 2, pp. 24 - 33 Date of Publication: 19th July 2019 DOI-https://dx.doi.org/10.20319/pijss.2019.52.2433 This paper can be cited as: Murali, A. S., & Gupta, V., (2019). Comparing Sartorial Indices: Costume and Courtly Culture in Ming China and Mughal India. PEOPLE: International Journal of Social Sciences, 5(2), 24 - 33. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Non Commercial 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, PO Box 1866, Mountain View, CA 94042, USA. COMPARING SARTORIAL INDICES: COSTUME AND COURTLY CULTURE IN MING CHINA AND MUGHAL INDIA Anu Shree Murali Undergraduate Student, Gargi College, Delhi University, New Delhi, India [email protected] Vidita Gupta Undergraduate Student, Gargi College, Delhi University, New Delhi, India [email protected] Abstract Mughal India and Ming China, two of the greatest empires in medieval Asia, were successful in influencing the cultures of their respective territories and beyond. Although the two empires differed on many grounds like art, society, environment etc., there are nonetheless striking similarities between the two. These similarities are often overshadowed and neglected because of the differences. One such similarity is the clearly defined social hierarchy in the society, articulated explicitly in the functioning of the court, of both these empires. An individual’s attire in Ming China clearly reflected his/her position in the courtly hierarchy. Building on this, we tried to look at the role played by attire in establishing social rank in an equally powerful and hierarchical empire of the Mughals in India. -
Qipao and Female Fashion in Republican China and Shanghai (1912-1937): the Discovery and Expression of Individuality
Bard College Bard Digital Commons Senior Projects Fall 2019 Bard Undergraduate Senior Projects Fall 2019 Qipao and Female Fashion in Republican China and Shanghai (1912-1937): the Discovery and Expression of Individuality Qingxuan Han Bard College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.bard.edu/senproj_f2019 Part of the Asian Art and Architecture Commons, Fashion Design Commons, and the Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 4.0 License. Recommended Citation Han, Qingxuan, "Qipao and Female Fashion in Republican China and Shanghai (1912-1937): the Discovery and Expression of Individuality" (2019). Senior Projects Fall 2019. 37. https://digitalcommons.bard.edu/senproj_f2019/37 This Open Access work is protected by copyright and/or related rights. It has been provided to you by Bard College's Stevenson Library with permission from the rights-holder(s). You are free to use this work in any way that is permitted by the copyright and related rights. For other uses you need to obtain permission from the rights- holder(s) directly, unless additional rights are indicated by a Creative Commons license in the record and/or on the work itself. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Qipao and Female Fashion in Republican China and Shanghai (1912-1937): the Discovery and Expression of Individuality Senior Project Submitted to The Division of Arts of Bard College by Qingxuan Han Annandale-on-Hudson, New York December 2019 Acknowledgements “No man is an island”. I would not have achieved many things in life without a network of people who have consistently supported me, amongst whom I owe the most to my mother, who has always gone out of her way to help me realize my most ambitious dreams -- I am forever grateful. -
Da Xiu Shan (女式大袖衫) Or “Large-Sleeved Gown” 8Th Century China: Tang Dynasty
Leah Jolifaunt of Schattentor [email protected] 1 MKA Marti Fuerst Da Xiu Shan (女式大袖衫) or “Large-Sleeved Gown” 8th Century China: Tang Dynasty Introduction I began researching the clothing of 8th Century China as part of the Epic Timey-Wimey Garb Project, which is a long-term research endeavor in which I am researching and recreating one or more complete outfits from each century that the SCA covers, 6th through 16th, from different regions. I chose China for the 8th Century both in an effort to get out of the western-European bubble and also because I was drawn to the elegance as depicted by Zhou Fang’s paintings. China's Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD) is considered a high point in Chinese history. Women's clothing of this period went on to influence Japanese and Korean dress, as well as our modern concept of traditional Chinese clothing. The Da Xiu Shan, (女式大袖衫) or "Large-Sleeved Gown" was worn in the later part of the Tang Dynasty (8th century), and is depicted worn by several court ladies in a painting by Zhou Fang. The Large-Sleeved Gown as depicted by Zhou consists of a skirt (裙, qun) tied at the breast, a diaphanous shirt with large sleeves, and a pibo (ribbon) draped over the arms. The outfit is finished with an elaborate, high bun decorated with hairpins and peonies. Tang women wore shoes with tipped-up, "phoenix head" toes, which are evident in Zhou's painting given the folds of the skirts. The Tang Dynasty was a peak period in Chinese civilization, where the country was open to the outside world, tolerant and appreciative of different cultures1.