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European-Style Cheeses 'Win' with Both Judges, Consumers

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European-Style Cheeses 'Win' with Both Judges, Consumers Volume 34 April 18, 2014 Number 13 Scan this code for breaking European-style cheeses ‘win’ news and the latest markets! with both judges, consumers By Alyssa Sowerwine Even the U.S. Champion- John Umhoefer, executive winning cheeses from Europe ship Cheese Contest win- director, WCMA, says while he are more or less handmade, INSIDE MADISON, Wis. — If you ners in 2011 and 2013 were does not think visual appeal is and the cheesemaker’s skill look at the grand champion European-style, U.S.-made as a big a factor to judges, he can certainly be a major factor. ✦ Guest column: cheeses of the past several cheeses. believes selecting a winning I believe in many cases, judges ‘Changing paradigm in years’ of World Championship The appealing presenta- cheese comes down to recog- make some of the assessment the role of universities.’ Cheese Contests, you may no- tion of these cheese types nizing cheeses that require of a sample on the level of skill tice a common theme among can make a lasting first a lot of craftsmanship, those it takes to make a particular For details, see page 6. them — all of the cheeses impression on judges and that are both beautiful and cheese.” ✦ IDFA’s Frye elected are European-made varieties. consumers alike, says Robert diffi cult to make. Much more than eye ap- new chair of U.S.-IDF. From Gruyere, to Gouda, to Aschebrock, veteran USDA Aschebrock notes that peal goes into the evaluation For details, see page 17. Swiss, European-style chees- dairy grader and chief judge the judges selected for the of cheeses, of course, Asche- es are consistently taking the of the World Championship World Championship Cheese brock notes. ✦ CMN celebrates winners top spots at the world contest, Cheese Contest. Contest are experts at what “In our contests we stress of World Championship which is growing each year it is “Presentation of samples they do; many of them have fl avor of the cheese as the Cheese Contest. held. The contest, sponsored is one area where especially actual experience in making major factor in selection of See coverage starting on page 25. by the Wisconsin Cheese Mak- the European and many U.S. cheeses of some type. the winners,” he says. “Next ers Association (WCMA), is cheesemakers have made “Experienced judges to the fl avor, we evaluate the ✦ Wisconsin Master held in even-numbered years, great strides when entering know that making a winning body and texture of the cheese Cheesemaker program while WCMA’s U.S. Champion- samples for competition,” cheese, whether it be a Swiss, sample. A lower-moisture or marks 20 years. ship Cheese Contest is held in Aschebrock says. Emmentaler, Appenzeller, semi-hard cheese made from For details, see page 45. odd-numbered years. “In my opinion, eye appeal Gouda or any winning cheese raw or heat-treated milk or in the case of wheel styles for that matter, a certain tends to break down,or as of cheese, ‘wheel appeal,’ can amount of skill is required,” many people call it become be a factor for many cheeses,” he says. ‘creamy,’ sooner than some State legislation to expand, he adds. “The workmanship it This is particularly true other cheeses.” takes to present a perfectly- when a cheese with eye MaryAnn Drake, William limit raw milk access fails shaped and nicely-finished formation like a Swiss or Ap- Neal Reynolds Distinguished wheel of cheese, whether it penzeller is manufactured, Professor of sensory analysis WASHINGTON — A proposed bill to relax regulations on raw milk in is foreign- or U.S.-made, gives he adds. and fl avor chemistry at North California, as well as an amendment that would have banned farmers both a cheese buyer or contest “Getting perfect eye for- Carolina State University from selling raw milk in Illinois, both recently failed to proceed in judge that important fi rst im- mation in a Swiss sample, for and a judge of the Ameri- their respective sessions. pression. When a judge looks at example, requires more tech- can Cheese Society (ACS) California’s AB 2505, the “Home Dairy Farm Raw Milk Safety a sample of product either in a nique and skill than making competition for the past Act,” was introduced by Assemblywoman Mariko Yamada, D-Davis, in wheel form or plastic-wrapped many other cheeses that are several years, notes that the February. It failed to move out of California’s Assembly Agriculture square block, that fi rst impres- mass-produced,” Aschebrock European-style cheeses con- Committee last week. sion can become part of the notes. “Eye formations can be sistently winning the World The bill would have exempted small farms with no more than three assessment of that sample.” a real challenge. Many of the Turn to WIN, page 23 a milk cows or no more than 15 milk goats from the same regulations larger producers in the state must follow to sell their raw milk to consumers. The bill was opposed by FDA and a number of medical and industry organizations, including the International Dairy Foods Association (IDFA) and the National Milk Producers Federation (NMPF), which submitted Grilled cheese goes mobile Schreiber plans a letter to California Assembly leaders urging them to reject the bill. to expand dairy “Loosening the regulations surrounding raw milk through AB 2505 with a motorcade of trucks plant in Missouri would be a step in the wrong direction,” IDFA and NMPF say in the By Emily King letter. “While choice is an important value, it should not pre-empt By Rena Archwamety consumers’ well-being. To further ease the regulations surrounding the MADISON, Wis. — Grilled cheese, a sandwich that had humble state-wide sale of raw milk is an unnecessary risk to consumer safety.” beginnings in the early 20th century, is now recognized with its own GREEN BAY, Wis. — Sch- Meanwhile, a proposed bill amendment in Illinois that would have month. April is National Grilled Cheese Month, and the sandwich reiber Foods Inc. recently banned the sale and distribution of raw milk directly from farms also once known as a childhood fi xture has grown into a meal that is confi rmed that it is plan- did not move forward. Its sponsor, Rep. Daniel Burke, D-Chicago, chose fashioned with a sense of gourmet creativity. Restaurants feature ning to expand one of its not to move HB 4036 out of committee after “thousands of communica- the sandwich as a staple of their menu and in the past few years, dairy product plants in tions” from raw milk proponents. grilled cheese has gone mobile in food trucks all across the country. Carthage, Mo. The Green “With the increasing popularity of the beverage, including legislation The procession of grilled cheese trucks between the fi rst and Bay, Wis.-based company has introduced on the national level, it just doesn’t make sense to interfere latest additions to the fl eet is as diverse as the cities in which two plants and two distribu- with the direct relationship between the people who produce this food they operate. tion centers in Carthage, and the people who want it,” Burke says. “I have no intention of moving Grilled cheese trucks have started popping up in Canada, and employing a total of about forward with this bill. I would like to see the law remain as it is and I the fi rst was Gorilla Cheese, Toronto. Showing some Canadian 800 people. a Turn to RAW, page 13 Turn to GRILLED, page 19 a Turn to EXPAND, page 8 a Reprinted with permission from the April 18, 2014, edition of CHEESE MARKET NEWS®© Copyright 2014 Quarne Publishing LLC; PH: (509) 962-4026; www.cheesemarketnews.com 2 CHEESE MARKET NEWS® — April 18, 2014 MARKET INDICATORS Chicago Mercantile Exchange CHEESE FUTURES* for the week ending April 17, 2014 Cash prices for the week ended April 18, 2014 (Listings for each day by month, settling price and open interest) Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday April 14 April 15 April 16 April 17 April 18 Fri., April 11 Mon., April 14 Tues., April 15 Wed., April 16 Thurs., April 17** APR14 2.321 1,305 2.323 1,303 2.327 1,305 2.329 1,305 2.344 1,305 Cheese Barrels MAY14 2.091 1,575 2.134 1,590 2.113 1,584 2.129 1,603 2.143 1,609 Price $2.1675 $2.1675 $2.1875 $2.2575 JUN14 1.955 1,399 1.980 1,410 1.972 1,428 1.981 1,443 1.975 1,472 +8 3/4 NC +2 Markets JUL14 1.924 1,144 1.914 1,162 1.900 1,162 1.896 1,167 1.893 1,166 Change +7 AUG14 1.926 1,083 1.915 1,095 1.900 1,097 1.895 1,099 1.891 1,112 Closed Cheese 40-lb. block SEP14 1.919 1,109 1.910 1,116 1.903 1,117 1.900 1,117 1.895 1,131 OCT14 1.882 1,096 1.877 1,098 1.872 1,098 1.870 1,098 1.865 1,106 Price $2.1850 $2.1975 $2.2225 $2.2800 NOV14 1.853 1,122 1.841 1,124 1.840 1,133 1.835 1,133 1.832 1,147 Change +1 1/2 +1 1/4 +2 1/2 +5 3/4 DEC14 1.820 1,156 1.815 1,181 1.811 1,191 1.808 1,198 1.805 1,210 JAN15 1.820 101 1.812 102 1.812 113 1.811 114 1.800 131 Weekly average (April 14-17): Barrels: $2.1950(+.0740); 40-lb.
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