ATLANTATAKE A WANDERMAKES AROUND FOSHOULDR THE LOVE YOU GO OF VEGAN?A LATTE SPORTINGBAKU’S STREETS TRACKS FEBRUARY APRIL 20192020 TheWhy alt fadthe thatUAE became has coffee a worldwide culture in movement its DNA ATHE ROMA BEST GUIDE BARTENDERS TO MEXICOIN THE CITYWORLD

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OS_DPS_Template.indd 5 1/26/20 10:55 AM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MANAGING PARTNER & GROUP EDITOR OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER IAN FAIRSERVICE

EDITOR SENIOR ART ART DIRECTOR DIRECTOR GEORGINA LAVERS OLGA PETROFF CLARKWIN CRUZ [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORIAL WEB DEVELOPER ANIMATOR ASSISTANT FIROZ KALADI SURAJIT DUTTA LONDRESA FLORES [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS Helena Amante; Tony Cenicola; Ben East; Laura Egerton; Sarah Freeman; Sarah Gamboni; Sarah Gillespie; Palko Karasz; Sofia Levin; Akos Stiller; Ali Watkins. Front cover: Dan Saelinger / Trunk Archive

GENERAL MANAGER ASSISTANT PRODUCTION CHIEF COMMERCIAL GROUP SALES PRODUCTION MANAGER OFFICER MANAGER SUNIL KUMAR BINU PURANDARAN ANTHONY MILNE MICHAEL UNDERDOWN [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

PRODUCTION SENIOR SALES SUPERVISOR MANAGER VENITA PINTO MURALI NARAYANAN [email protected] [email protected]

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES EDITOR DEPUTY EDITOR SHEBA KOONAN CATHERINE FREEMAN

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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FEBRUARY 2020

58 DUBAI

Home beans The inventive creations of Dubai’s homegrown coffee obsessives 58 13 71 GLOBAL EMIRATES

Global south Fathima Butto on why Experience 14 Latest news 72 our media consumption Stay: From Zermatt to Dubai 16 Inside Emirates 76 is shifting in the global Can art represent cities adequately? 22 Destination: Japan 78 south’s favour 64 A guide to Baku, Azerbaijan 28 UAE Smart Gate 80 Beauty and the feast 36 Route maps 82 Looking sharp Salmon fishing in upstate New York 40 The fleet 88 Zeitgeist-setting The magic of Romania’s springs 48 Go see this: The breathtaking redesign of architecture at Dubai’s Bartending: not just a night job 52 Qasr Al Hosn Fort, Abu Dhabi 90 World Expo 66

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11

EDITOR’S NOTE

BEAUTY AND THE FEAST

If you drank a glass of white wine that had been dyed red, would you notice? Apparently not, according to a now-famous 2001 study that saw Frédéric Brochet turn wine detective for his PhD. Challenging 54 oenophiles to de- scribe a wine that he put before them, they universally used descriptors typ- ical of red wine – unaware that they were instead drinking white, tampered with an odourless red dye. The study caught fire (primarily because everyone took such pleasure at putting so-called wine experts in their place). It also became a useful prece- dent for reminding us that sometimes, all is not what it appears. Sour, salty, fat… these flavours are supposed to be detected by our tongue and roof of our mouth. Yet, so much of what we taste is linked to its visual aspect. “Pinkish-white will be sweet, yellow and green will be sour and white and blue tastes salty,” says Oxford professor Charles Spence in ‘Eating with our eyes’ (p36). Food has long been linked to how it looks. Sometimes it is to display hos- pitality, other times, wealth – banquets at the Vatican are said to include whole peacocks delivered to the table. One only needs to look at the bemus- ing popularity of the multi-coloured “freakshake” to recognise that we don’t always eat food for the way it tastes. Perhaps, though, we can still find culinary beauty in the natural. In the intrepid hunt for New York’s salmon, as told by Ali Watkins on p40, she de- scribes “hordes of slick green backs, begging to be hooked.” If we can take pleasure in the humble beginnings of our produce – as well as the final, gussied-up version, dished out in a fancy restaurant – so much the better. FOLLOW US

facebook.com/ openskiesmag Georgina Lavers, Editor twitter.com/ openskiesmag

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BACK TO THE FUTURE: THE MUSICAL, FEBRUARY 20 - MAY 17 “A time machine! Out of a DeLorean?” The iconic 1980s film Back To The Future gets the musical treatment this month in a world premiere in Manchester. Roger Burt, who plays Christopher Lloyd’s mad professor character Dr Emmett Brown, explains the magic

Given that one of Back To The Future’s How’s your Doc Brown shaping up? is very attractive. He’s filled with a sense classic scenes is Marty McFly playing Well, when you’re playing someone as of hope. In American culture, mentors Johnny B Goode, it’s amazing there’s iconic as Doc Brown, so brilliantly and used to be so important and I would say never been a musical adaptation. indelibly rendered by Christopher Lloyd this century there’s been a little bit of a Yeah, the movie has this backbone of great in the film, you try to use what he did as breakdown between generations. Which music to the story. Marty McFly as a young a launchpad for your own performance. I is why this is such a wonderful relation- rock ‘n’ roll guitarist in high school is just mean, he is perfect in that film. There are ship – most of what he’s trying to do in the greatest excuse for our show to express certain things I completely lift from him, this show is help his friend. There’s some- itself through song in that main character. like the way he moved. But as time goes thing to cherish in that. On top of it, we have the luxury of spend- on and you have your own relationship Have you met Christopher Lloyd or any of ing time in 1985 and 1955, both incredible with the actor playing Marty McFly, it in- the original Back To The Future team yet? musical eras. I can’t wait for people to hear evitably becomes my version of the char- Well, first of all, I have been in the the songs – we have an amazing band. acter – you have to turn the movie off. I DeLorean – which we’re calling Dolores! Can you put a finger on why there’s so just feel so grateful that Christopher’s As for humans, Bob Gale, who wrote the much love for Back To The Future? version was so fun. movie and the book for this musical, has Because it’s about family, and the power He’s often seen as a purely comic char- been at the majority of the workshops. of love – Huey Lewis’ great song – which acter, but there’s also a real sense of He’s an incredible guy and he has been everyone instinctively understands. You wonder and possibility to Doc Brown key in getting the tone of the show cor- want to believe in this idea that you can Absolutely. It’s a role that really celebrates rect. And yes, I did get to spend a couple accomplish anything if you put your mind science and creativity. He really does ex- of evenings with Christopher Lloyd and to it, which is such a key part of Back To press an amazing attitude about life, fail- get to know him a bit. He just wanted to The Future. And then there’s the notion of ure, perseverance and dedication; there’s know how Doc Brown sung! being able to go back and fix things. a belief in himself and the universe that Manchester, UK. backtothefuturemusical.com

Roger Bart (Doc Brown) and Christopher Lloyd at the Manchester launch for Back To The Future the Musical

OS_022020_P14-15_Experience_ThePlan.indd 14 1/23/20 12:59 PM FEBRUARY 4-9 EMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE The 12th annual books extravaganza in Dubai boasts one of its most exciting line-ups to date, with appearances from adventurer Ranulph Fiennes, Booker-shortlisted author Esi Edugyan and current Booker International Prize winner Jokha Alharthi. There’s something for everyone here, with historians, children’s authors, food writers, scientists and thinkers also gathering for sessions during the festival, which this year has the overarching theme: “what will tomorrow look like?” Dubai, UAE. emirateslitfest.com

THROUGHOUT FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 8-25 FROM FEBRUARY 21

MARDI GRAS VENICE CARNIVAL ICC WOMEN’S T20 WORLD CUP The carnival season has already A little more sober than Mardi Gras The shortest, most explosive for- begun in New Orleans, with tradition- but no less intriguing is Venice’s mat of cricket enjoys a biennial al balls and spectacular parades with version of carnival, which involves World Cup every two years, the big outlandish floats throwing visitors masked revellers in tabarro cloaks talking point this time is whether gifts and trinkets throughout Febru- roaming the waterways. Only revived reigning champions Australia can ary. The city becomes one big party in in 1979 after Napoleon banned pub- win on home soil. They’re the over- the run up to February 25, Mardi Gras lic festivities 200 years previously, whelming favourites, but second in Day, but there’s also a Family Gras there are street shows, more pa- the ICC rankings are England, who beforehand that caters for little ones. rades (on water, obviously, and beau- will be itching to put right their de- New Orleans, US. tifully lit) and opulent balls. feat in the 2019 final. mardigrasneworleans.com Venice, Italy. carnevale.venezia.it Across Australia. t20worldcup.com

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DUBAI 25.2048° N, 55.2708° E PRICE: FROM US$245 PER NIGHT

Left: The living room of a At Dubai’s Nikki Beach, a lively lifestyle garden villa offers space for brand adapts to a unique customer private dining Hippie chic

WORDS: GEORGINA LAVERS

FROM THE CONCIERGE Rum tasting Savour a Caribbean dinner served beachfront by Chef Oliv- ier Hilton of Key West Bar and Grill, paired with a rum tasting experience. Try a South Beach Punch, with coconut rum, or 90 Miles to Cuba, with both dark and light rums, cinammon and ginger beer.

Hammam experience The Hammam at Nikki Spa, prepared the traditional Moroc- can way, is a holistic and nur- turing experience that provides House beats seem to melt into the warm air of hotel chain has quickly become known for instant, visible and long-lasting the Gulf, with guests decked out in Gucci and its prime beachfront locations, as well as a results. Try the one-hour Mo- Zuhair Murad swaying to the hypnotic rhythm buzzy scene that has been replicated across roccan Bath experience, where of the resident DJ. Every so often, their moves locations including Koh Samui, Bodrum the body is painted with an olive paste, before exfoliation might be punctuated by a spontaneous per- and Santorini. In Dubai, a hippie-luxe fla- and body scrub with a tradition- cussion performance, or a team of aerialists, vour similarly permeates the property, with al kessa, a Rhassoul clay mask or even, perhaps, the arrival of a champagne teepees in the reception and quirky ceram- application and a hair wash. “tank” – pushed by waiters and festooned ics dotted around the social spaces. with sparklers that soar into the dusk. The property is home to its eponymous Private villas When guests are finished with a hard beach club, free to access when staying at For families, privacy-seekers or day’s partying, they may retreat to a suite the hotel. Elsewhere, five restaurants and those wanting more than a mi- ni-break, try the self-contained with views of a whitewashed shoreline, lounges, a 450-metre private beach studded pool villas. Situated between the their room lit up in neon blue lights. This with palm trees, a well-stocked gym, spa hotel and the beach club, villas is Nikki Beach, a carefully-created experi- and two oversized pools make for a swanky have exclusive access to private ence that transcends the idea of “just a ho- resort getaway. It’s not all high glamour: on patios and terraces, with balco- tel.” Since its inception two decades ago, the Wednesday, Floridian-themed restaurant nies for each bedroom.

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From top: The private beach offers jet-skiing and other watersports; Café Nikki offers all-day dining, focusing on responsibly-sourced ingredients; Beach villas come with their own patios

Key West turns to Jamaica for inspiration, DUBAI guests foregoing heels for flip flops to the strains of a Jamaican live band (and plate- fuls of bbq from the buffet). Breakfast can be taken at the resort’s main restaurant, Café Nikki, which serves up eggs benedict and pancakes with a sea view. Small touches like a mini Smeg fridge pair with local considerations, such as a shisha area located Planning a visit to Dubai just off to the side of the restaurant. Foodies and the UAE? On today’s should try the less pricey equivalent of a pri- flight in the TV section on ice you’ll find Enjoy Dubai vate club cabana (where minimum spend & the UAE, with channels is US$8,000) and go large on the seafood dedicated to Tourist At- brunch; with salmon smoked at your own tractions, Dining, Activities, table, and a huge wooden crate groaning with Entertainment, Golfing and langoustines and crab legs. Hotels & Resorts.

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ZERMATT 46.0207° N, 7.7491° E PRICE: FROM US$261 PER NIGHT

In the Swiss resort town of Zermatt, a new hotel is Left: Décor at the property finds its inspiration in a global, proving a welcome breath of fresh air rather than Swiss design Mama Mia!

WORDS: SARAH FREEMAN

FROM THE CONCIERGE Pop goes the cheesecake Even the bistro taps into the hotel’s textural tendencies; a case in point is its cheese- cake, presented in an enamel mug and topped with berries, meringue and popping can- dy. Warm up for the explosive dessert with a sharing platter of veggie tempura, baked Dolly Some hotels wear their name like a badly whirlpool suites, where corporates, snow- sheep cheese with boiled pota- tailored suit, others have it stitched into boarders and families can all bunk down. toes and veal tartar served on their DNA. Mama is the latter. An homage to This inclusive ethos extends to the hotel’s Zermatten walnut bread. the grandmother of owner Sandrine Julen, stylish co-working area (already a hit with Yes, it’s personal it’s the third incarnation of a hotel that’s the local ski school), which doubles as the The spirit of Mama lives on in been in Zermatt’s famed hotelier family breakfast bar and events space during low the ground-floor shop, where for three generations. The 26-year-old has season. “I want to break things down and you stock up on Italian deli-style honoured this heritage, without descending make it less formal,” explained Julen. treats like speciality pastas and into sentimentality – returning the ceramic The hotel thinks outside the Toblerone retro-packaged olive oil, own- fireplace to where it stood during her grand- box when it comes to décor, too. It’s more brand sunscreen, floral motif Swedish Birchwood trays and mother’s tenure, and slipping dishes like about global eclecticism than sheepskins even the hotel’s own bespoke ‘granny style’ waffles into its bistro menu. and chalet chic – from the metal lattice- scent. In a thoughtful touch, In a departure from the status quo (for work adorning the bar and facade (inspired Mama sends you home with a Zermatt at least) – the property’s rooms by the owner’s brief stint living in Dubai), gift from here, handpicked by span every budget – from cosy singles to to the Italian-made armchairs. Adding Sandrine herself.

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From top: Bedrooms come equipped with electric fondue sets; A nod to the Alpine setting; Local olive oil and pastas are available to buy in the gift shop

some local spin are Valaisian materials like wood and stone. Texture is also a touchpoint, stimulating a sense that’s all too often forgotten in today’s tech-forward hotels. Dovetail leather place mats, felt forest green cushions and the bed- rooms’ fabric wallpapers, right this wrong. What its 29-herringbone parquet-floored bedrooms lack in square footage, they com- pensate for with statement furniture like leather trunk minibars (complete with elec- ZERMATT tric fondue sets), and bespoke upholstery, printed in Swiss pastoral scenes. In stark contrast, the bathrooms channel an urban vibe – washed in charcoal and black, with Emirates serves two des- chrome accents and geometric lines. Mama’s tinations in Switzerland –

PHOTOS: WILLIAM CROALL PHOTOS: penchant for yin and yang is catching... Zurich and Geneva.

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DUBAI 46.0207° N, 7.7491° E PRICE: FROM US$300 PER NIGHT

A popular beach club, top-rated restaurants and a DINING IN sophisticated setting make Rixos Premium Dubai a STK Channelling a luxe New York preferred destination among the city’s social set steakhouse, this sophisticated dining room draws an equally upscale crowd to its curva- ceous booths for flame-grilled beef, tartares from the raw Looking sharp bar, and decadent weekend brunches. WORDS: SARAH GAMBONI Ammos Be transported to the Aegean islands with a meal at Ammos Greek restaurant, a breezy, white-and-blue eatery beside the pool. Standouts include dips with pillowy pita bread, freshly caught seafood grilled to order, and the signature lob- ster spaghetti for two.

Luigia This lively Italian trattoria serves exemplary pizza, pasta and an- tipasti using the finest ingredi- ents flown in fresh from Italy. A favourite among families, Luigia has a dedicated kids’ play area complete with activities, games and a cinema.

Flashy, fast-paced and eye-catching. As far Inside, a triple-height foyer of glossy as first impressions go, Rixos Premium Du- black marble draws the eye past high-end bai doesn’t disappoint – and that’s just the clothing boutiques and low-slung couches to sports cars that line the hotel’s driveway. a vast expanse of glass overlooking the Ara- The rotation of Ferraris, Lamborghinis and bian Gulf. Between the hotel and the gulf’s McLarens (and their smartly dressed own- gentle waves lies Azure Beach club, home to ers) set the tone for this high-energy hotel, an expansive infinity pool and Mediterrane- a favourite among the Dubai party set since an-inspired lounge. Shaded sunbeds, pool its launch in 2017. floats and chilled DJ tunes make for laidback Hailing from Turkish luxury hoteliers days, which step up a notch on weekends. Rixos, the five-star urban retreat in Jumei- Rixos’ acclaimed bars and restaurants Above: Nine outlets rah Beach Residence occupies one half of the add to the party vibe, with nine outlets that throughout the property Crystal Towers complex, a pair of slick struc- take you from buffet breakfasts at Turquoise provide plenty of tures on the southern Dubai skyline. and morning tea at Godiva to sundowners dining decisions

OS_022020_P20-21_Stay_RixosPremium.indd 20 1/23/20 4:54 PM From top: Floor-to-ceiling windows give expansive views of the Arabian Gulf; Natureland Spa offers traditional hammam experiences

on District’s view-blessed terrace. Yet with- in the confines of the 414-room hotel, a sur- prising sense of calm prevails. Muted mush- room tones and soft lighting provide privacy DUBAI in the common areas, and in the rooms and suites, Arabesque screens and carpets offer a subtle nod to Rixos’ Turkish origins – also evident at the Natureland Spa. Along with classic massages and facials, guests can experience a traditional hammam treatment, where therapists steam, scrub and cleanse the body using exfoliating kessa For more great places to mitts and clouds of soap. It’s the perfect place stay check out the Dubai to reset after a weekend of Rixos indulgence. Hotels podcast on ice.

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From South Korea to Christchurch, public art is responding to cities’ characters

WORDS: LAURA EGERTON Does public art heal?

“Everything is going to be alright”. These words, spelt out in neon by Mar- tin Creed, were first exhibited on the ex- terior of Tate Britain, London, and soon after in New York’s Times Square to welcome the new millennium. It was fit- ting, too, for the first colourful iteration of the piece to illuminate Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetu in Sep- tember 2015 – as the institution reo- pened five years after the city suffered two catastrophic earthquakes. Sometimes receiving a jolt can propel a city into finding new methods of cre- ative expression. Sometimes it can be manifested through museum program- ming, but it can also grow organically. Christchurch launched itself as a street art destination after the earthquakes; In New the city, suddenly full of derelict build- Zealand, 185 ings and containers ripe for graffiti art- empty white ists, becoming reshaped. chairs act as Peter Majendie’s 185 Empty White an unofficial Chairs on the site of the CTV Building memorial for where 115 lives were lost (mostly Chi- those that died in the 2011 nese and Japanese students) is a truly Christchurch eloquent memorial. The stark collection earthquake of chairs of different shapes and sizes

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united by their white colour, scattered on rary anxieties about buying local – and mark. Strong public projects are yet to be what is now a grassy wasteland, along- statement of fact. It’s an artwork made launched but by 2035 the city intends to side the Transitional Cathedral designed by a Chinese artist.” be the leading art centre in Asia and pub- by the Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. As the world becomes full to bust lic art is very much on their agenda. SCAPE public art was producing with things made in China, the art scene Shanghai hosts the annual inter- new contemporary public art projects in China goes from strength to strength. national award for public art, which in in Christchurch well before the earth- Blue-chip galleries and private institu- 2019 commended El Seed’s spectacular quakes. Its 2019 edition ‘Rock Paper tions have been flocking to open spaces project, ‘Perception’ (2016). The anamo- Scissors’, examined materials, patterns in Shanghai’s West Bund and Beijing’s rphic masterpiece of Arabic calligraphy and rituals. “Everything comes from 798 Art District for over a decade, since painted on the exterior of over 50 build- somewhere,” declares curator Emma the Shanghai Expo in 2010. ings in the Manshiyat Nasr neighbour- Budgen. A standout work by Sui Jian- Last November’s art week in Shanghai hood of Cairo (known as ‘garbage city’) guo was displayed by the Bridge of Re- saw the opening of the David Chipperfield has brought the troubled community membrance: “Made in China is both a designed Centre Pompidou x West Bund together and stands as a key example of provocation – tapping into contempo- Museum, a truly significant new land- the power of public art. Whether Man-

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1. Sui Jianguo’s resin dinosaur, ‘Made in China.’ 2. Graffiti in Cairo’s ‘Garbage

City’ by El Seed (5) helped to reshape its perception 3. A giant fresco by French street artist Saype that pays tribute to migrants, as seen from the Eiffel Tower 4. Considered as a poor area of Busan, Gamcheon is now an award- winning cultural village, by virtue of its street art 5, 6. Architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser conceived this colourful public toilet block in New Zealand (6)

shiyat Nasr will become a fully-fledged elements being added all the time, the be on permanent display. Supported en- tourist destination as a result of El village is a fascinating place to explore. tirely by the community, it will give the Seed’s project remains to be seen, but Another Instagram hit is a quirky spot region a first-rate cultural destination. there are examples elsewhere of dis- on the tourist trail in Northland, New A city famed for its spirited and vi- tricts springing to life thanks to innova- Zealand: the public toilets in the small brant street art scene is Buenos Aires. tive urban art schemes. Take, for exam- town of Kawakawa created by Austri- From Colegiales to La Boca murals ple the wonderfully eclectic Gamcheon an-born artist Friedensreich Hunder- abound, as local artist Irina Kirchuk ob- Culture Village in Busan, South Korea. twasser. It has been such a success that serves, “the city has a unique energy, it Originally a shanty town where refugees the late artist’s designs for a major arts lives on the street, thrives on spontane- settled following the Korean war from centre for the region are being realised ity, disorganisation and is all the rich- 1958, the village was given a new lease as the Hundertwasser Art Centre and er for it”. Krichuk has however shown of life in 2009, with schoolchildren, art- Wairau Māori gallery in Whangarei, due abroad more than in Argentina so far in ists and architects taking over spaces to open in 2021. It will be the first gallery her career, her most well-known instal- in the twisting alleys and transforming dedicated to contemporary Māori fine art lation to date was for ‘Bold Tendencies’ them into art installations. With new and will also bring pieces from Vienna to in London’s Peckham in 2018, which

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(9) 7. Argentinian artist Irina Kirchuk’s Bold Tendencies, in Peckham, London 8. Luciana Lamothe’s Limber Sharp at Jameel Arts Centre, Dubai 9. Antony Gormley’s cast- iron sculpture in the Avon River, unceremoniously crowned with one of the city’s ubiquitous orange road cones

remodelled the London skyline in pul- dents Programme in 2019, the piece she art projects. Fundraising appeals in com- sating sculptural forms using materials created has joined a growing collection munities can be successful, such as the sourced from rubbish dumps. at Art Jameel. Hundertwasser Arts Centre in Whanga- The market for Latin American art Several of the projects in Christchurch rei, as can key moments in a city’s histo- has been on the up in recent years, Bue- funded by SCAPE public art are perma- ry when public funding is readily availa- nos Aires selected by Art Basel to launch nent: take for example Anthony Gorm- ble: such as an Expo. We saw Shanghai’s ‘Art Cities’, to propel its artists and gal- ley’s STAY, a cast-iron human figure cultural spaces open up as a result of leries into the global spotlight. standing in the river Avon which runs Shanghai 2010 and have high hopes that Luciana Lamothe’s “Starting Zone” through the city’s heart. It has a lifespan Expo 2020 will have a similar effect on was produced as part of this programme of 300 years and has played a therapeutic Dubai. What is crucial to bear in mind is in 2018, her interactive installations cre- role as the city rebuilds itself after crisis. how artworks can reflect and respond to ating temporary ‘in-between’ spaces. The city was lucky in this case as the art- the particular character of a city, under- Ruth Benzacar Galeria de Arte brought ist gave a large discount, funding is often stand the concerns of its communities

her to Dubai as part of Art Dubai’s Resi- a prohibitive factor in producing public and have a positive impact. GRIFFITHS DAMIAN GALOTERA; IMAGES: EL SEED; BRENT

OS_022020_P22-26_Dispatch.indd 26 1/23/20 2:30 PM georgia tourism.pdf 1 12/19/19 2:00 PM

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K Meeting point for the world’s cultural and gastronomic diversity, the city with bohemian charm, Tbilisi, Georgia welcomes you.

www.georgia.travel 28 / GLOBAL / EXPLORATION

NEIGHBOURHOOD BAKU 40.4093° N, 49.8671° E

With an eclectic mix of ancient history, art, flavoursome food and the F1 – Baku holds appeal for a variety of travellers Old City, Baku WORDS: SOFIA LEVIN IMAGES: SOFIA LEVIN & GETTY IMAGES

OS_022020_P28-34_Neighbour_Baku.indd 28 1/23/20 2:35 PM DID YOU KNOW? Baku’s currency is modelled on Euros with their size and colour. However, each Manat note is themed with characteristics of its national identity. You’ll find excerpts from the national anthem and images of a sword, shield and helmet to signify power.

Ask someone to point out Baku on a map and there’s a good chance they’ll take a few minutes. It’s Azerbaijan’s most eastern point that juts out into the Caspian Sea, across the water from Turkmenistan. Each year it hosts the Azerbaijan F1 Grand Prix, but the city holds appeal well beyond car enthu- siasts. Icheri Sheher, the Old City, is Baku’s historical centre, with many of its 12th-century defensive walls still intact. Within these fortifications are the ancient jewels of Azerbaijan, the Maiden Tower and Shirvanshahs’ Pal- ace, but also a creative community, local craft stores and even entrepre- neurs touting Azeri caviar. Visitors can stop for a quick qutab (charred, stuffed flatbread) served from a window for a single manat; pause for tea taken with spoonfuls of jam or indulge in an au- thentic feast with a side of traditional entertainment. Baku itself is a confection of inter- esting buildings that range from centu- ries-old stone, to brutalist remnants of the Soviet era, to modern architectural masterpieces that wouldn’t be out of place in Dubai. Nothing is far, whether it be the sprawling local market, Taza Bazar, or bustling Nizami Street, lined with international designer shops, res- START taurants and hotels. Neftchilar Avenue separates the Old City from the Cas- TAZA BAZAR pian Sea and leads to the Baku Boule- vard, where people stroll past historical To shop like a local, go where the locals points of interest and watch the sunset. shop. Expect to get lost among stalls of The metro and bus systems are straight- fresh produce, pyramids of dried fruits forward and cost 0.30 manat (20¢) re- and teas, baskets of pomegranates, gardless of where you ride, while taxis open-air meat and fish sections, tables are usually less than 10 manat (US$6) of traditional cheese, giant jars of pick- within Baku. Spend a few days in this les and even caviar. It’s an assault on city and you’ll soon realise that while the senses and a photographer’s dream. it’s unmistakably familiar, Baku re- Corner Salatin Asgarova and Səməd mains unlike anywhere else. 1 Vurğun, Baku

OS_022020_P28-34_Neighbour_Baku.indd 29 1/23/20 2:35 PM 30 / GLOBAL / EXPLORATION 2 A 10-MINUTE TAXI A 13-MINUTE WALK

AZERBAIJAN NATIONAL MAIDEN TOWER CARPET MUSEUM Standing at 29 metres tall over eight sto- There’s a saying in Azerbaijan, “home reys, you might spot this iconic stone is where your carpet is spread”. The tower on the back of your manat before Carpet Museum is a testament to the you see it in person. There’s debate importance of the carpet throughout around when it was built, but it’s gen- Azerbaijan’s history and culture. The erally agreed that the lower part dates museum opened in 1967 and relocated to the 6th century and that most of the to the waterfront in an impressive build- structure was completed in the 12th ing shaped like a rolled carpet in 2014. century. It’s thought that the Maiden Inside the oldest rug dates from the 17th Tower was originally a temple and then century, while modernist works portray a defence tower – the walls are five me- daily life and fairytale-like scenes. Stop tres thick at the base. Called Qız Qalası to admire the trio of famed Flame Tow- in Azeri, head inside to admire the mul- ers from the entrance. timedia installations in the museum. 28 Mikayıl Hüseynov Prospekti, Baku, Icheri Sheher, Baku, +994 12 492 11 75, +994 12 497 20 57, azcarpetmuseum.az 3 icherisheher.gov.az

OS_022020_P28-34_Neighbour_Baku.indd 30 1/23/20 2:35 PM GLOBAL / EXPLORATION / 31 4 A TWO-MINUTE WALK

MUĞAM CLUB

It’s as much about the atmosphere as the traditional food at this two-storey caravanserai restaurant, with glimpses of the Maiden Tower from the sheltered courtyard. Sit beside a fountain and fig trees strung with fairy lights while tuck- ing into dishes like dushbere (dumpling soup) and ciz-biz (fried and diced offal with potato). Book ahead and visit in the evening for traditional performances. 9 Hagigat Rzayeva, Baku, +994 12 492 40 85, mugamrestaurant.com

DID YOU KNOW? The best way to see Baku is from its waterways. Take a gondola through its own Little Venice, a man-made waterway that flows between shops and restaurants and is connected by bridges and walkways. 5 AN EIGHT-MINUTE WALK

PALACE OF THE SHIRVANSHAHS

Stroll through Icheri Sheher to this restored, 15th century palace where Azerbaijan’s dynasty ruled, bathed, and cohabitated in the Middle Ages. Through the main courtyard there’s a wonderful view across sandstone domes to the Flame Towers, while in- side are exhibitions with audiovisual flourishes. Explore the Divankhana pavilion, burial vaults, mosque, mau- soleum and hamam ruins. Icheri Sheher, Baku, +994 12 492 11 75, icherisheher.gov.az

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MUSEUM OF MINIATURE BOOKS

This small, obscure museum of more than 5,700 tiny books, courtesy of the personal collection of Zarifa Salahova, is worth 10 minutes if you’re in the Old City. Most require a magnifying glass to read. There’s a whole library’s worth of books from fairy tales and Shakespeare to philosophy and worship. 67 1st Castle Lane, Icheri Sheher, Baku, +994 12 492 94 64, minibooks.az

WRESTLE YOUR WAY IN Arm wrestling is a serious business in Baku’s gyms and bars. The city is home to the Armwrestling Federation, who host the country’s professional league. 8 A 14-MINUTE TAXI

HEYDAR ALIYEV CENTRE

You could spend half a day at Baku’s most famous building and cultural centre, designed by renowned archi- tect Zaha Hadid. It’s not hard to be- 7 lieve there wasn’t a single straight line A TWO-MINUTE WALK used in its design. The abstract, white structure bends and curves at different ALI SHAMSI STUDIO angles, causing it to seemingly change shape. Inside is a museum dedicated Baku is an artistic city and if you stop to Azerbaijan’s history and the life of in at this workshop you’re likely to meet Heydar Aliyev, as well as multiple exhi- the artist himself. Ali Shamsi paints bition halls that might include classic bold, colourful canvases with dreams- cars, photography, traditional musical cape-like subject matter of piercing eyes instruments or puppets from around and pomegranates. He’ll pose for a pho- the world. Keep an eye out for musical to, and will likely ask you to do the same. performances, too. 28 Kichik Qala, Baku, +994 50 478 14 78, 1 Heydar Aliyev Ave, Baku, +994 12 505 60 ali-shamsi.com 01, heydaraliyevcenter.az

OS_022020_P28-34_Neighbour_Baku.indd 32 1/23/20 2:35 PM INPT-open skies-ad.pdf 1 06/01/20 14:59

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9 A NINE-MINUTE TAXI

ŞIRVANŞAH MUZEY-RESTORAN

Part museum, part historic building and part restaurant, this is Baku’s most unique dining experience. Once a 19th century bathhouse, it’s now a maze of A SEVEN-MINUTE TAXI 18 painstakingly decorated and themed dining rooms decked out in original KEFLI LOCAL WINE AND artefacts and Soviet-era paraphernalia. SNACKS If you’re with a group, call ahead and 10 order shakh plov, a “royal pilaf” served This cosy local watering hole is the place like a crusted cake. to try local drops. There are more than 20 86 Salatın Əsgərova, Baku, wines available by the glass for between +994 12 595 09 01, facebook.com/ 2.50 and 5 manat (US$1.50 to $3), plus shirvanshahmuzeyrestoran many more bottles and specials (like the pomegranate wine). Don’t forget to try the local cheese and charcuterie boards. 4a Terlan Eliyarbeyov, Baku, +994 51 308 99 09, facebook.com/kefliwinebar

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WORDS: ILLUSTRATIONS: HELENA AMANTE FINN DEAN

E A T I N G W I T H O U R E Y E S

THE DIGITAL ERA HAS REINFORCED THE REIGN OF FOOD VISUALS. BUT IS THERE HOPE BEYOND RAINBOW BAGELS?

Food should be a multisensory experi- “While the senses of taste (gusta- closely linked that it has been suggest- ence: a tantalising aroma wafting up to tion), smell (olfaction), and texture ed that trichromatic colour vision could the nose, a play of textures exploding in (touch or oral – somatosensation) pro- have developed in primates as an adap- the mouth, a surprising combination of vide the ultimate arbiters of a food’s tation to help identify colourful fruits flavours lingering on the palate. Howev- palatability, visuals make for a big part amongst the dark green canopy. er, in today’s social media-driven, high- of our appreciation of food. The natu- Nonetheless, if visuals have played ly visual world, we are constantly inter- ral desire, or urge, to look at food could an essential role in the human relation- acting with food only through sight. The well be an evolutionary adaption: our ship with food since time immemorial, old aphorism ascribed to the first-cen- brains learnt to enjoy seeing food, since there has arguably never been a time tury Roman gourmand Apicius, “We eat it would likely precede consumption”, where they have been so preponderant. first with our eyes”, has never felt more says Charles Spence, Professor of Ex- “What’s peculiar in our age is the ab- accurate. If an elaborate, scenographic perimental Psychology and Head of the solute dominance of the visual: we live presentation of food was favoured by Crossmodal Research Laboratory at the in the age of the images of food, and Roman patricians as a means to amaze University of Oxford. “Foraging – the sometimes food is reduced to its visual their guests and express their wealth search for nutritious foods – is one of appearance”, says Nicola Perullo, Pro- and prosperity, the digital world we live the brain’s most important functions, fessor of Aesthetics at the University of in has amplified the importance of food and in humans, this activity relies pri- Gastronomic Sciences of Pollenzo, Italy. visuals in all four corners of the earth. marily on vision”. Food and sight are so Over the last few decades, exposure to

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idealised cooking procedures and beau- shapen, discoloured and knobbly. Mak- Food is about sharing. You tell a story of tiful plating has ballooned: exquisitely ing a compelling case for the subjectivity cooking and making, or a story of serving illustrated cookbooks have become best- of beauty and the deceptive nature of and tasting, or even a story of just ingre- sellers and cookery shows fashionable. visuals, photographer Klaus Pichler el- dients. Whichever story you pick, you The Internet took visuals to another egantly portrayed rotten food against a need to stick to it and choose everything level by putting the user at the centre – black setting for his project “One Third” accordingly, including settings, cutlery, according to Statista, half of Americans – named after the UN statistics report- tableware and so on”. take pictures of their food before start- ing that roughly one-third of the food But beyond storytelling and pho- ing a meal, and food hashtags account produced in the world for human con- tographic artistry, another set of brain for millions of search results worldwide. sumption gets lost or wasted every year. tricks can lend a precious hand to shap- Beyond refining the art of plating and Intentionally emulating the aesthetics of ing our perceptions about food on the serving, the battle for likes and com- advertising photography, the images of sole basis of looks, as cognitive neuro- ments on the food web scene has led food covered in vivid, putrid green spots sciences delve deeply into the relation- some restaurants to adopt offbeat tech- and exuberant furry mould strike the eye ship between sight and taste expecta- niques to encourage social sharing, such as gorgeous just before the brain realises tions. “The sense of sight is particularly as providing Instagram kits – including what is actually depicted. influential in tasting expectations, and LED lights, clip-on wide camera lens While Pichler’s work captured the es- both colour and shape convey informa- and selfie sticks – or printers that scan sence of decay into an instant of beauty tion to the brain”, says Spence. Most sur- selfies on the front of drinks. to raise awareness of food waste, others prisingly, not only is the colour of food it- According to Perullo, the current are devising captivating visual narra- self influential, but taste is also perceived marketisation of aesthetics doesn’t tives to change mentalities on different differently depending on the colour of come without a cost, and with rain- food habits, and to tackle the general the crockery. Blue – a colour typically bow bagels, quintuple burgers and me- misconception that healthier equals less associated with unnatural and artificial tres-tall ice creams jostling for the food tasty. “I think alternative diets should be food colouring precisely because blue hashtag podium, it’s easy to understand promoted with the same sexiness as ‘reg- foods are rare in nature – is reported to the risks. But if high-calorie, plastic and ular’ diets. They can be as appealing”, be off-putting: the blue tray meal deal of the Great Depression Era appears to have come out of the realisation of those offer- “WE FIND THAT MOST PEOPLE ing all-you-can-eat meals that customers THINK PINKISH-WHITE WILL BE consumed less food if they were given SWEET, YELLOW AND GREEN WILL a blue tray rather than a tray of anoth- er colour. In recent studies, Spence and BE SOUR, BROWN AND BLACK his team at the Crossmodal Laboratory TASTES BITTER AND WHITE AND have mapped colours according to taste BLUE TASTES SALTY” expectations: “We find that most people think pinkish-white will be sweet, yellow and green will be sour, brown and black unhealthy food is apparently ideal In- says Elise Dumas, the Parisian behind tastes bitter and white and blue tastes sta-worthy material, there’s no reason @pineapplechef. “My intolerances were salty”. In terms of shape, meanwhile, why visuals can’t be twisted and turned a stroke of luck to help me go back to a rounded, voluminous and regular forms to advocate for different narratives. good and healthy way of eating. They’ve suggest sweet flavours, while angular On the issue of food waste – an ugly made me realise I wanted to talk about and asymmetrical ones tend to be per- problematic in all senses – visuals are good and authentic food, and I now use ceived as bitter. Armed with a powerful being used creatively to shed light on my experience as a former visual mer- bag of tricks, Spence has been working the problem. Initiated in Germany to chandiser for luxury brands – the ability alongside chef Jozef Youssef from Kitch- prevent a startling 40 per cent of agri- to deal with shapes, textures, colours and en Theory to make our brains ecstatic cultural produce from being rejected by the overall reading of a display – in my about a healthy and sustainable meal, supermarkets for failing to meet cosmet- food styling and photography”. Working with strategies that go from serving food ic standards, the “Ugly Food” movement on content mostly for visual consump- with a fraction of the sugar and calories campaigned for the commercialisation tion, Dumas uses several techniques to that our eyes are misled to expect, to of perfectly edible and tasty, if ugly, pro- make food feel real and fresh, like high- boosting the appeal of sustainable but duce. Adopted since in many other coun- lighting different textures so the viewer unappetising ingredients. tries, by both small shops and supermar- almost feels he can taste it. Also, the im- There’s no room for doubt: we do eat kets, the movement’s ethos has flooded ages rely heavily on storytelling to evoke with our eyes, now more than ever. Yet, to social networks, through profiles like a strong sense of place, trigger sensory with a touch of artistry and the aid of that of NYC-based food stylist Sarah memories and compensate for the lack visual illusions, we may be able to over- Phillips (@uglyproduceisbeautiful), who of other stimuli. “The food needs to be come the challenges of food visuals in aims to explore the appeal of the mis- shot like you are going to serve it or eat it. the digital era with flying colours.

OS_022020_P36-39_BeautyAndFeast.indd 38 1/23/20 2:41 PM OS_022020_P36-39_BeautyAndFeast.indd 39 1/23/20 2:41 PM DAUGHTER AND DAD, CHASING SALMON IN UPSTATE NEW YORK

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My dad and I were on the rocky bank of of roaring streams, dammed by hordes of My dad and I were two of those hope- Sandy Creek when I saw the first salmon slick green backs begging to be hooked. fuls this fall, trekking upstate with my close enough to catch. Like a phantom, That fishermen and women wish for uncle and cousins one October weekend it glided against the current, its rhythm salmon is no surprise. The twist in that to bring home a fish of our own. Both of just a beat slower than the water around fantasy is that such visions are not pipe us had fished in countless states and wa- it. Two decades of fishing experience dreams restricted to the West. Thousands terways but never had either of us landed vanished the moment its body – 3 feet of coho and king salmon swim inland one of those coveted trophies. My uncle, long, at least – swam in front of me. every autumn just five hours northwest who has pulled salmon from these waters I was as anxious and clumsy as a of New York City, pouring out of Lake for years, predicted that the week’s early child. I was also not in Alaska, the as- Ontario and into dozens of tributaries rain would spur the fish upstream, to- sumed home of this prized fish; I was an across Oswego County to spawn and die ward us. The salmon run itself is its own hour north of Syracuse, New York. upstream. They are joined by throngs ambiguous fish tale. It occurs every year, All anglers have a catch they dream of hopeful anglers who aim to arrive in sometime between September and the of landing. King salmon, with its signa- Oswego County just as the salmon begin end of November, and is usually spurred ture pink streak and hooked jaw, is almost their annual “run,” when the fish leave by the first frost. A handful of blogs and certainly on anyone’s list. Its very men- the lake’s relative safety and begin their fishing reports keep tabs on its status, tion brings fantasies of deep woods and doomed mission upstream. as does the region’s whisper network of

Fish On!. a motel in Pulaski, N.Y. The majority of fishing businesses in Pulaski are family-owned, shops and boats often passing down through the generations

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tackle shops and fishing lodges. Some CASTING RITUALS long-distance communion. I send my say Oswego County’s major run is almost I still remember the first fish I caught dad pictures of the trout I pull from Col- always on Columbus Day, and any other with my dad. I was 7, and we hooked a orado mountain lakes, and he regales me weekend is a waste. Others say it can hap- foot-long catfish off Lake Ontelaunee, in with stories from his foray into fly fish- pen as late as Halloween. The fisherman the middle of a Pennsylvania summer. ing. To miss a weekend fishing together on your right might say it happened last We nailed it to a board and gutted it. for king salmon would be sacrilege. For week, as the one on your left says it hasn’t Then, according to my father, I paraded years, my dad and my uncle have trav- happened yet. around the neighborhood with a bloody eled to Pulaski, a fishing hamlet on the Whichever angler you choose to be- fish skeleton on a two-by-four. The de- eastern end of Lake Ontario. The area lieve, if you venture to an Oswego County bacle was the start of our own chapter is an angler’s promised land, brimming waterway sometime between September in a family heritage, passed down by with trout, bass and pike year round. But and November, you are likely to see a salm- my grandfather who often joined our it is the coveted salmon and steelhead on or one of their trout cousins, the equally excursions. When my grandfather died, that make these streams a sort of angling coveted steelhead. If you see them, you my father inherited his poles, tokens re- mecca for the East Coast fisherman. may be able to catch them, which is what minding us to keep that tradition alive. If fishing requires luck, salmon fish- brought us to this marshy waterway 15 Growing up and moving out has made ing takes twice as much. By the time they miles outside Pulaski, New York. that difficult, but still, fishing is our begin their trip inland to spawn, the salm-

Pulaski, New York is a community built around fishing. The tiny village, with a population of around 2,200, was once known as Fishville

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The native Atlantic salmon of Lake Ontario were demolished by anglers and invasive species at the turn of the 19th century, and attempts to revitalise the fish faltered until the late 1960s

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on are no longer eating. Bait is useless. Instead, a hopeful fisher must scan the waterways, look for a stray fin and cast, hoping to land the tiny hook on a fish or annoy one so much that it strikes. Autumn anglers in these waterways are treated to double the odds. As the salmon run wanes, it is followed by a flood of steelhead trout making their own biannual trek to spawn upriver, feeding on the flesh of dying salmon as they go.

A TOWN’S PURPOSE That salmon even exist today to traverse these waters is a wonder. After centuries as a reliable food source for the Iroquois, the native Atlantic salmon of Lake Ontario were demolished by anglers and invasive species at the turn of the 19th century. Attempts to revitalise the fish faltered for decades until stocked king (referred more frequently as chi- nook in Pulaski) and coho salmon finally made their way inland to spawn in the late 1960s. Since then, they have carried the area’s industry on their glistening backs, tracing a route every fall from Lake On- tario back to the Salmon River and their nascent fish hatchery in Altmar, just a few miles east of Pulaski. Thousands of hopeful anglers de- scend on the lake’s various tributaries every fall for the fishes’ annual pilgrim- age, bringing rods, trophy hopes and around $19 million in annual revenue. To partake in the endeavour requires a small investment. A state license can be purchased for a single day, a week or a year, and in-state residents can get a sev- en-day permit for $12, bought online or at any of the town’s tackle shops. Fly fishing is most popular, but few tackle shops in the area rent gear. The better option for hobbyists is to book a trip with any of the region’s various guides, easily scheduled in Pulaski. The town, right on the Salmon River, is the modest metropolis of the pre- miere fishing zone, and it exists for little else. Taverns double as gutting stations and fish storage lockers, and almost every view contains a tackle shop. In-town lodging consists of drive-in motels and antiquated lodges. For those inclined toward comfort, the 1880 House is in the center of town on the banks of the

© 2019 THE NEW YORK TIMES COMPANY THE NEW YORK © 2019 river – the inn’s smart, professorial décor

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Clockwise from far left: At Fat were delighted to find the cloudy wa- Nancy’s Tackle Shop, Rich Nau sells ter had transformed into a transparent flies, bait and other gear to anglers; crystal. Fishing is a sport of patience in Waders and other gear drying in the a world that has little. To love it is to love cellar of the 1880 House; Autumn anglers in the waterways are treated the excuse to slow down and focus on a to double the odds – both salmon singular goal, surrounded by nature’s and a flood of steelhead trout stereo: the babble of a wooded creek, or the definitive smack of a fin on the wa- ter’s surface. For me, the sport is a har- bour, and I treasure it as much for the act itself as the memories that come to life with it – the steady hand of my grandfa- ther, or the quiet company of my dad. evokes a more elegant sporting weekend. A mile into our morning trek up- (Fun fact: The inn has a “unfishable wa- stream, we saw the first emerald body flop ter cancellation policy” if the river is too its way up a shallow chute. Anglers, like cold or too high.) While convenience is soldiers staged at the bank for battle, be- Pulaski’s benefit, the crowds may be what gan furiously casting and chasing the fish, push so many fishermen and women to hoping their hook would be the one that venture beyond. In town, anglers swarm snagged. My dad and I watched in awe. the river, which can be so packed during A half-mile up the creek, a man the salmon run that it is difficult to find a jogged past us, furiously reeling a fly spot to cast. Instead, many hopefuls ven- rod. My uncle followed and charitably ture northwest toward Sandy Creek and offered our net – the lucky fisherman other streams like it, where the crowds are pulled a stunning, 28-inch steelhead smaller and the fish, having just left the from the water. On the dawn of the fi- lake, are fresher. nal morning, our six-person group had landed one salmon and hooked into a PHANTOMS AND FISH IN dozen. The temptation to find our own SANDY CREEK trumped any urgency to return home. We arrived in Pulaski and stopped at Fat We strapped on waders and gathered Nancy’s Tackle Shop, conveniently set our tools, my grandfather’s cherry-han- immediately off the highway’s exit ramp dled hunting knife tucked in my vest. For toward town. It was the morning rush, three hours, we stood near a shallow pool with more than a dozen anglers in waders and watched half a dozen fish merge to- and camouflage stocking up on flies and ward the bank, resting briefly after their bait. In the aisle, a clerk tied dime-size journey through the white water. packs of salmon eggs together in delicate I was waist deep near that bank when mesh, tempting bait for resident steel- I saw a sluggish silhouette at my boots. head. Loaded with hardware, we drove My pulse quickened and I shrieked with to the aptly named Up the Creek camp- delight, momentarily losing the ghost- ground and set up camp, anxious to join ly outline. Frantically, I searched the our crew and head for the water. As we water while my father, chuckling, crept began our trek through the brush, my dad through the reeds, pole at the ready. passed me my grandfather’s Ugly Stik, It could have been a fish, or one of the iconic casting rod manufactured by the river’s endless illusions. But we were Shakespeare since 1976. chasing it, together. The evening current was swift, the water murky, and the fish elusive. Hope- ful for better conditions, we turned in ear- ly and woke around 5am for a full day on If you’re planning your next adventure to or from the Americas, enjoy a seamless the creek (according to state regulations, travel experience with our JetBlue part- fishing is permitted a half-hour before nership. Book your entire journey with sunrise to a half-hour after sunset). Emirates and connect to the US, Caribbe- The sunrise illuminated the fall trees, an or South America – all on one ticket. splashing the valley in golden light. We Learn more at emirates.com

OS_022020_P40-47_Salmon fishing.indd 47 1/23/20 2:54 PM ROMANIA’S SPRINGS TAP A REGION’S DEEP HISTORY

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ONE MORNING IN THE SMALL TRANSYLVANIAN MOUNTAIN RESORT OF BAILE HOMOROD, IN ROMANIA, TRAVELLERS AND RESIDENTS GATHERED UNDER THE SHADE OF A WOODEN CANOPY NEAR THREE STREAMS OF SPARKLING SPRING WATER TO FILL UP A ROW OF EMPTY BOTTLES.

OS_022020_P48-51_Romanian spring.indd 49 1/23/20 3:00 PM 50 Previous pages from left: Drinking spring water in the farming village of Tusnad, Romania, next door to a mineral-water museum; A renovated rustic pool in Barzava, Romania. Locals find relief from summer heat via a spring that flows through wooden canals into the wooden swimming pool. Right: Balint Vencel, center, filling bottles with mineral water that he says has helped his kidneys

This is no ordinary water. But reminders of the water culture are said Andrea Tompa, a novelist from the It flows from volcanic mountains everywhere in the Transylvania region: city of Cluj Napoca in western Transyl- nearby and pours into the springs here. At in half-timbered villas of old spa towns, vania, who grew up during the worst of its best, it’s cool, clear and prickly, with a wooden pools in pristine surroundings the shortages. “It was a sense of control rich taste of minerals. At its worst, it can built and used by villagers and roadside over the body, the opposite of disposing quickly develop a foul smell and stain pavilions sheltering springs. with my own body, deciding what feel- everything in sight a dark amber. But resi- ings I will have.” She added, “But they dents swear by its curative powers. ANCIENT RITES couldn’t take away the mineral springs.” Balint Vencel, 36, a frequent visitor, The mineral water is deeply embedded Tompa, who hails from the region’s says the water helps with his kidney is- in the local culture and mythology. It’s Hungarian-speaking community, now sues. “I’ve seen doctors and they didn’t Romanians’ favourite drink, advertised lives in Budapest. Her grandparents help,” he said. “But ever since I’ve been on billboards and television. Most shops owned a small spa in the village of Zizin, drinking this water, I haven’t had any sell local varieties – sparkling, mild and where alleys in the shade of pine trees pain in my kidneys.” still – stocked next to internationally led to wooden pavilions with mineral The naturally fizzy water is slowly known brands. water bubbling up from the earth. They filtered through layers upon layers of Water is also part of many ancient specialised in water-based health treat- volcanic rock, making it crystal clear and local rites: On Easter Monday in some vil- ments, one of hundreds of such enter- sparkling most of the time. In villages like lages, young men visit girls to “sprinkle” prises in the wider region. Baile Homorod, dotted with cottages in them with ice-cold water – a ritual hold- These businesses reflected an awak- sight of a single ski slope in the eastern- ing the promise of youth and fertility. ening of health consciousness among the most region of the former Austro-Hun- In one village, locals talk of two European middle class in the early 20th garian Empire, residents once hoped to springs of salty water: One brings on century. Trends were inspired by the likes monetise the springs – turning the region stomach acid, the other cures it. Now- of Sebastian Kneipp, a Bavarian priest into the Switzerland of the east. They adays, popular springs post the water’s who believed in balneotherapy; walking expected visitors to flock to spas and re- chemical composition to calm visitors’ barefoot on stones, dewy grass and snow; sorts and bathe and heal in the waters, as fears of any ill effects. and keeping a mostly vegetarian diet. wealthy tourists did in the Alps. For residents of the poor and seclud- But then the war came. “Healing That dream faded because of war, ed farming communities, the mountain with water faded away, and with it the politics and economic failures. springs are a luxury. Many drink the wa- world whose lifestyle included the bath- After World War I, the empire col- ter instead of tap water, which they don’t ing culture,” Tompa said. That included lapsed, and the balneotherapy indus- trust because of all-too-recent memories her grandparents’ spa, which exists now try – natural healing based on therapies of life under Ceausescu. only on black-and-white greeting cards. like cold and warm baths – eventually In the 1980s and early 1990s, tap wa- went out of fashion. The end of World ter was a rare commodity in many parts THE SURVIVAL OF A WATER CULTURE War II brought Communism, and most of the country as the nation was recov- Still, the springs have persevered because of the private spas and resorts were na- ering from decades of extreme austerity. enterprising residents have fought for the tionalised, closed or mismanaged under Nothing but hollow hissing and a few survival of their water culture, teaming up state officials. Communist Romania was drops flowed from the tap for most of to clean neglected fountains. late to invest in tourism, and it focused the day. That water supply is still unre- In Barzava, a village that lies on a pla- not on the mountains but on the Black liable in some places: In the summer of teau near the regional capital, Miercurea Sea Coast. In the 1980s, the dictator 2018, for example, taps in Bacau, a city Ciuc, villagers renovated the old “peasants Nicolae Ceausescu’s repressive regime, of 200,000, ran dry for five days because spa.” Just outside Miercurea Ciuc itself, a along with increasing shortages, made of a technical glitch. couple of concrete pools filled with amber the country an austere and unattractive “The dictatorship brought this expe- water stand as unlikely survivors of a long-

destination for foreign tourists. rience of making the body vulnerable,” gone era. The water bubbles up in one cor- TIMES COMPANY THE NEW YORK © 2019

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ner of the pools in periodic bursts, direct my grandmother lived, seemed like a Tusnad paid for the drilling rights from the mountain, ice-cold and sparkling. breeze, as the rising sun shone through by sending the central authorities in Bu- Roadside rituals around the flowing the pine forests. My grandmother her- charest a train load of potatoes, the main water have endured. self swore by the water’s curative qual- crop in this mountainous region. The wa- When I was a child growing up in Bu- ities, mainly for the stomach. ter has been flowing uninterrupted ever dapest, we would drive to Transylvania, since, tainting the taps a rusty yellow. where my grandmother lived. I remember A TRAIN FULL OF POTATOES Tap water in the village is still unpop- stopping by the springs in Baile Homorod Erzsebet Janosi, 61, who lives in Tusnad, a ular. “We tend to use spring water,” Janosi at the tail end of our overnight trips in my farming village, holds the keys to the local said. “The one from the tap is so hard it family’s rickety Mercedes minivan. mineral-water museum, a single circular clogs the coffee machine up all the time.” My mother would rummage around room holding old bottles, labels and oth- Travelers stop by on their way for a plastic bottle or two and join the long er memorabilia. Next door is the water through Tusnad to drink or to take the wa- line of weary travelers to drink or to wash source, with slightly sparkling water flow- ter home. But Janosi has her own view of away the dust and fatigue of the road. ing from two taps poking out of a wooden its rich taste. “It’s not as good after potato From there, the final 20 miles across statue of an owl. Janosi’s father had the soup as it is after a plate of meat,” she said. the mountain to Miercurea Ciuc, where idea to drill for water in the village, in 1957. “That’s for sure.”

OS_022020_P48-51_Romanian spring.indd 51 1/23/20 3:00 PM killed labour

OS_022020_P52-57_Bartending.indd 52 1/23/20 3:05 PM 53 Words arah illespie

When a night job becomes a vocation

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Marta Ess Mark Tubridy

Above and right: A pre-finals tour took place at the Bombay David Yee Christian Suzuki Sapphire distillery at Laverstoke Mill in Hampshire, K

Mark Tubridy, a bartender at New ork’s “t one point, people 21 Club, opens an app on his phone and starts playing a drum loop. “The gin is the drums,” he says, grooving along. joked it had turned into “The black pepper is the strings, and the umatran coffee is the melody.” He’s presenting the drink that won The Most Imaginative him a place in this month’s grand final of Bombay apphire’s Most Imaginative Terrarium Contest” Bartender MIB competition in Chicago,

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Above and below: Bartenders at Speed Rack battle it out. The female-only competition has raised over 1m for breast cancer charities

A bartender at MIB. Conceptual bartending and low-ABV cocktails have both proven trendy in recent years

comprising three rounds a conceptual authority ifford’s uide lists 6 compe- ociety launched The Collective pirit, cocktail contest, a business pitch and an titions on its website, sponsored by every- a competition in which contestants aim ingredient challenge, where each final- one from ernot Ricard to Ting grapefruit to secure a 50,000 grant by presenting ist will create a drink from a randomly juice. nd it’s no longer enough for a a sustainable bartending concept. ome assigned ingredient. The winner will cocktail to look pretty or taste good it contests have brought once-overlooked receive 5,000 a 10,000 individu- has to act as storyteller or social commen- minorities into the spotlight. The wom- al prize and a 25,000 grant with which tary. The buzzword for last year was sus- en-only peed Rack was founded in 2011 they will develop their business idea. tainability Chicago-based Carley askin by Ivy Mix and ynnette Marrero it now eemingly every drinks company won MIB with a zero-waste cocktail, and runs in five regions and has raised over now has its own competition industry tequila education project The Tahona 1 million for breast cancer charities.

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Above: Manhattans legendary speakeasy, 21, is home to Mark Tebridy

OS_022020_P52-57_Bartending.indd 56 1/23/20 3:05 PM 57 “I once did a Bacardi competition where I forgot to add the rum, but I still styled it out.”

“I started peed Rack to make a plat- mocktails. Even some bartenders are many, it’s also transitioned from stop- form for women in a male-dominated cutting back. “I never drink at home,” gap to life calling. MIB finalist Marta industry,” says Mix. “When we started, says uzuki. “The older I get, the more Ess, who works at Toronto’s Chantecler the profession was almost entirely com- responsibilities I have it just wouldn’t restaurant, took up bartending to fund posed of men now, we see more and make sense.” her professional dance career but after more women leading.” In acknowledging its historically retiring from dance at 29, realised that ubbed “the roller derby of bar- high rates of alcoholism and growing her true passion lay with her side-hustle. tending,” peed Rack rounds see punky, calls for change, the drinks industry is he insists it’s not so different. “Bartend- black-clad contestants whipping up slowly course-correcting. In 201, the ing and dance require a lot of the same four craft cocktails in the fastest possi- Tales of the Cocktail TTC confer- skills,” she says. “They’re both physical- ble time. They incur penalties for errors, ence in New rleans one of the biggest ly demanding, you have to work erratic such as stray egg yolk in a whiskey sour events in the industry held an alco- hours, and you have to have good spa- or a leaf at the bottom of a mint julep. hol-free opening party. The party also tial awareness. ou’re also constantly 2019 winner at Corbo’s final time marked the official launch of the in performing you’re not just providing a was two minutes and four seconds. roject founded by an Francisco bar- drink you’re providing an experience.” To avoid a tiny error from derail- tender Mark oodwin and funded by a Transition from a previous career ing their game, competitive bartenders TTC grant in which workers abstain- is a common theme among many of spend hundreds of hours preparing. For ing from alcohol wear a pin to signal the MIB competitors. avid ee was a his literature-inspired drink, “hort to- their intention to others. writer now he tells stories through his ry,” MIB finalist avid ee tried endless s well as facilitating bartender ab- cocktails. For some, the lines are more permutations during his time off from stinence, the industry is waking up to the blurred. “I see acting in everything,” working at ddfellows iquor Bar in many physical and mental health risks says finalist Nikolas oylinos, who Columbus. “fter a while, your palate associated with bar work. “It’s disruptive turned down a place at ondon’s pres- starts to go numb,” he says. “I was call- to sleep people are working against their tigious drama school, R, to become ing people over to sample three slight- circadian rhythm,” says Tim Ethering- director of operations at ustin speak- ly different drinks, asking them which ton-Judge, founder of not-for-profit social easy Here Nor There. “When you do bar- they prefer , B or C It’s too easy to get enterprise Healthy Hospo. “Nutritional- tending competitions, you’re up there comfortable, to do something that’s just ly, it’s also hard when you finish work, on that stage and anything can happen. a riff on a classic. ou have to push your- you’re too tired to cook, and the only plac- I’ve seen people go to pieces up there, self to do something different.” es that are open are fast food joints.” just like they would in an audition. But ccasionally, the conceptualis- Etherington-Judge, a former brand you just have to go with the flow, what- ing goes too far. “t one point, people ambassador for iageo, founded Healthy ever happens. I once did a Bacardi com- joked that it had turned into The Most Hospo after suffering a breakdown in petition where I forgot to add the rum, Imaginative Terrarium Contest,” says 2016. He now tours conferences and but I still styled it out.” Christian uzuki, an MIB finalist who workplaces educating hospitality work- Ess says she’s noticed a perception works at Wildhawk, an Francisco. “It’s ers in nutrition, exercise, and mental change among those new to the indus- calmed down a bit now, thankfully.” His health. “We show bars and restaurants try. “ur generation all fell into it one own cocktail, the Japanese-influenced the business impact of looking after their way or another,” she says. “But with the “Imaginary Folklore,” nearly suffered staff,” he says. “I met with a chef who said younger generation, bartending is not a a similar fate. “It was turning into “17 to me, If my fridge breaks, I pay to have fallback it’s the goal.” Ways with esame eeds,” but I pared it it fixed yet if a member of staff breaks, back,” he says. I don’t do the same for them.’ small When tasting a cocktail that’s the re- investment in staff wellness pays divi- Emirates serves 12 destinations in the sult of weeks of R, one should be so- dends in increased productivity, reduced SA nonstop from Dubai, including ber enough to enjoy it. This may explain turnover and sick leave, and improved New York K, Newark, Washington why the rise of conceptual bartend- customer experience.” DC, Boston, Orlando, ort Lauderdale, ing has coincided with another major ll this suggests that the bartending Houston, Dallas, Chicago, San rancis- drinks trend low-alcohol cocktails and industry is beginning to grow up. For co, Los Angeles and Seattle.

OS_022020_P52-57_Bartending.indd 57 1/23/20 3:05 PM Home to roast Meet the artisans behind Dubai’s homegrown coffee brands – stamping their own unique signature on a centuries-old coffee culture

Words: Sarah Gamboni

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Could a pair of coffee beans reshape THE BIRTH OF COFFEE tion. It was here, from the port of Mokha, everything we know about coffee? Ac- There are as many twists and turns in the that coffee made its way into the wider cording to Antony Wild, historian and history of coffee as there are beans in a world, first via pilgrims on their way to author of Black Gold: The Dark History bag, but one of the most popular legends Mecca, and then to Europe, where the of Coffee, the discovery of two coffee traces back to Ethiopia in the 850s, where ‘second wave’ of coffee emerged. beans in an archaeological dig in Ras Al a goat herder named Kaldi realised that It’s this rich regional heritage that Khaimah suggests that gahwa (Arabic his herd became particularly lively after inspired Garfield Kerr to launch Mokha coffee) was being traded in the region eating the berries from the native coffee 1450 coffee boutique on Dubai’s Al Wasl some 300 years before it’s said to have bush. He shared his find with the local Road in 2013. “The first wave of coffee first proliferated in Yemen. monastery, who dubbed Kaldi’s berries was here in the Middle East, where cof- “It’s all a bit mysterious, but there is “the Devil’s work”, and threw the hand- fee was first drank in its original form. archaeological evidence that coffee has ful of beans into the fireplace. Entranced The second wave was popularised in been consumed in the region since the by the aroma of the roasted beans, they Europe’s coffee houses and cafes, and 11th century,” Wild explains of the car- placed them into a pot of hot water and, everything that’s going on now is the bonised roasted beans, which were un- after tasting the mysterious brew, were third wave,” Garfield explains. “We earthed at Kush, in Ras Al Khaimah in amazed by its uplifting effects. wanted to go back to the origins of cof- the northern UAE. Similar tales surround the birth of fee, and our name harkens back to the “My generally held theory is that coffee in Yemen, where the first credible port of Mokha in the Yemen, where cof- based on this find, there could have been accounts date back to the mid-1400s. Re- fee was circulated to the world.” a genuine coffee trade throughout the re- cords show that Yemeni traders brought That history is celebrated at the Dubai gion a lot earlier than we first thought,” he the beans to the Middle East from Ethi- Coffee Museum in Al Fahidi, which show- adds. “Of course, this would require all of opia, and Sufi monks drank the brew to cases the birth of coffee and the evolution the myths and legends to be retold.” stay alert during their long hours of devo- of technology to the present day. The mu- seum’s director, Khalid Al Mulla, explains the significance of coffee in Arabic socie- ty, saying, “It’s deeply rooted in our tradi- tional culture. The Arabian dallah (coffee pot) is a sign of hospitality, and it is pres- ent everywhere: in the streets; in hotels; even on the one dirham coin.” Coffee has long been at the heart of Arabic hospitality, and the majlis (sitting area), its hearth. “Even if a man had noth- ing in his pocket, he would always serve his guests coffee and dates,” says Al Mul- la. Traditional Emirati coffee is delicate and aromatic, flavoured with a hint of cardamom, saffron, rosewater and clove. The fragrant blend is boiled on a stove then steeped for 10 minutes, before be- ing poured from the dallah into tiny cups called finjan. Don’t be dismayed if your finjan isn’t filled to the brim, Al Mulla explains: “The server never pours a full cup; it’s generally one quarter to one third full, to encourage you to drink a number of cups during your stay – if he pours a full cup, it’s disrespectful, as it means he wants you to drink and leave.” When he’s not explaining the intrica- cies of Emirati coffee customs, Al Mulla sources quality beans direct from farm- ers for his own brand, Easternmen & Co, and runs coffee education programs and competitions. “Coffee is the second big- gest commodity after oil, and the second most consumed drink after water – and the UAE is considered one of the fastest

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Left: Kim Thompson, Below: The Sum of Us, a café of Dubai’s Raw Coffee, sources near Dubai World Trade Centre, has cherries in Myanmar its own micro-roastery

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DUBAI COFFEE CRAWL 01 – Raw Coffee Company 04 – Mokha 1450 07 – The Sum of Us 10 – Dubai Coffee Museum 12 – Boston Lane Sample single origin Coffee is elevated to an While you linger over an There’s no better place Get a taste of Melbourne coffees sourced direct from artform at these boutiques, expertly poured flat white to learn about the history café culture with a farmers, tour the roastery or which offer a range of brew- in this industrial-chic café, and culture of coffee pitch-perfect Magic coffee take a barista class at this ing methods and scrupulous- watch all the action of in the UAE than Khalid and Aussie staples such pioneering establishment. ly sourced beans. the adjoining Encounter Al Mulla’s enlightening as smashed avocado and Corner of Street 7a and 4a, Aswaaq Centre, Al Badaa, Al Coffee Roasters. museum in Old Dubai. comforting toasties. Warehouse #10, Al Quoz 1, Wasl Road and Building 8, Burj Al Salam Trade Centre, Villa 44, Al Fahidi The Courtyard, 6A St, Al Quoz, rawcoffeecompany.com Golden Mile Galleria, Palm 6th St, thesumofusdubai.com Historical Neighbourhood, bostonlane.com Jumeirah, mokha1450.com coffeemuseum.ae 02 – Nightjar 08 – Boon 13 – Brew Take a seat at the bar and or- 05 – The Espresso Lab Founder Orit Mohammed’s 11 – Leen’s Casual to The queues have been der a glass of nitro cold brew This smart café-roaster family has been involved in Gourmet known to snake around infused with cherry, orange comes from Emirati entre- the Ethiopian coffee trade For a local twist on the the block at this popular or maple, then buy bags of preneur Ibrahim Al Mallouhi. for generations. Sample her classic latte, try Leen’s sig- haunt, which serves light artisanal beans to go. Try a citrus-infused espresso organic, single-origin brews nature piccolos flavoured and fruity filter coffees 8th St, Industrial 1 Warehouse or low-acidity cold drip. at this JLT roaster-café. with delicate rose, decadent and mochas made with G62, Al Quoz, nightjar.coffee Unit 8, Building 7, Shop 21, Cluster T, JLT, pistachio, or antioxi- Valrhona chocolate. Dubai Design District, booncoffee.com dant-packed saffron. Jumeirah Beach Rd, Umm 03 – Drop theespressolab.com Jumeirah Beach Rd, Umm Suqeim 2 Top-rated baristas and a 09 – Alchemy Suqeim 2, and Bluewaters contemporary, light-filled 06 – Gold Box Roastery Expect a chic setting and Island, leens.com 14 – Surge space are the hallmarks of Order freshly roasted brews state-of-the-art brews at this Pick up bags of freshly this cool café. crafted by award-winning sleek café, housed within roasted beans or a bottle of Dar Wasl Mall, Al Wasl Rd baristas Lyndon Recera and a stylish villa opposite Dar smooth Emirati Blend from Mark Uy. Wasl Mall. this edgy roastery-café. Warehouse 7, Umm Suqeim 37 39 B St, Al Wasl Rd, Warehouse 33, Rd East, Industrial 3, Al Quoz, alchemydubai.com Al Quoz Industrial 4, goldboxroastery.com surgecoffeeroasters.com

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growing coffee industries in the world,” table brewing, which creates a conversa- Below: Tom & Serg, the first he says. “The reason for this is education. tion between the barista and the diner.” offering from a duo that Consumers have started to realise what went on to create two more good coffee is, and have changed their THE NEW MAJLIS cafes in Dubai: Common Grounds and The Sum of Us drinking habits. The transformation that Globally, with the rise of freelance and has taken place is remarkable.” flexible work, smaller living spaces and a renewed focus on health, coffee HOMEGROWN HEROES shops and cafes have become de facto Dubai, so we wanted to create a commu- One woman who has been at the fore- workplaces, meeting spaces and lounge nity space, to create a sense of place for front of that transformation is Kim rooms. And nowhere is that more appar- artists and other small businesses, and to Thompson of Raw Coffee Company, who ent than here in the UAE. Leon Surynt offer a relaxed environment that doesn’t launched Dubai’s first specialty roastery has tapped into that zeitgeist with the cost too much,” says Thompson. Along in 2007. At the time, she was struggling launch of Nightjar Coffee Roasters in with enjoying a meal and an expertly to source quality beans for her café, and Dubai’s arts hub of Alserkal Avenue. poured coffee, visitors can sample vari- so took matters into her own hands. “All “It’s almost like the majlis was, but now ous beans and roasts, take a barista class, the coffee was imported and not fresh. you’ve got your coffee house where you or join a two-hour tour to follow the cof- It was very darkly roasted and had a and your crew hang out,” he says. fee journey from crop to cup. heavy American influence,” Thompson With the social media hashtag of While much of the Dubai coffee explains. “In the beginning we struggled #CoffeeOverClubbing, Nightjar draw scene echoes current global trends, the with people accepting an 8oz cup, but a young crowd to its edgy warehouse city also sets its own agenda, as Kerr ex- we’ve progressed so much faster than ex- space for frothy, tall glasses of nitro cold plains: “Our busy period is six to 10pm, pected. We were the first specialty roast- brew, drawn from draught hops taps at and people drink coffee well into the ers, and now we’re one of 54, a number a copper bar. “We built Nightjar to look evenings – it’s the inverse of other re- that’s growing all the time.” like a bar, and our cold brew is served so gions, where cafes have their rush in the Another local success story is Cof- it looks like a beer.” A combination of cli- mornings.” Here, it’s not just about get- fee Planet, which has evolved into a mate and social cache have seen Night- ting a caffeine fix. “People spend a lot of multi-million dollar business since its jar’s sales of cold coffee equal their hot time savouring the coffee and the expe- launch in 2005. In mid-2019, the home- coffee orders. “This validates what I was rience,” says Garfield. grown company announced the expan- thinking – we have a young demograph- In a city where tourists, residents sion of its Jebel Ali Free Zone roastery ic, many of whom don’t drink alcohol, and trends come and go, one thing re- to accommodate a 25 per cent increase but they want something that looks a bit mains constant, says Thompson: “All in sales, with a projected output of haram [forbidden],” he suggests. the different cultures, nationalities, 3,000 tonnes of coffee per year. Man- At Raw in Al Quoz, the café-roast- genders and ages meet and talk over cof- aging director Robert Jones said, “This ery performs a similar social function. fee. Do we say, I’m going out for a tea? is an exciting time for the Coffee Planet “We’re all looking for our tribe here in No – it’s always a coffee.” team. In a region where the demand for high-quality, directly sourced products are on the rise, we plan to enhance the level of competition amongst brands lo- cally by applying the best practices and the latest technologies in this industry.” At Mokha 1450, those best practic- es include building relationships with growers in Yemen and Ethiopia to source exceptional beans, says Kerr. “One of the things that sets us apart is that many of our coffees aren’t available anywhere else. We work primarily with women’s cooperatives, and the farmers that work with us get the highest price possible – we compensate them for the additional effort and highest level of quality.” Kerr and his team also pioneered the concept of having a range of extraction methods available, including Kalita and Chemex filters, syphon brewing, aero- press and V60. “With the opening of our branch on Palm Jumeirah, we pioneered

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Putting her finger on when this pro- found cultural shift from American mu- sic, movies and television shows began is a little trickier, however. “There isn’t a date or a year we can point to and say ‘this is the start’”, says Bhutto. “The cultural industries I wrote about in New Kings have been at work for decades, producing culture long be- fore they became globally recognised or famous. I do centre a lot of the dis- cussion around the 1990s, however, be- cause that’s the zenith of the excitement over globalisation as well as the begin- ning of a global neoliberal wave.” Bhutto argues that this new land- scape of cultural power is less a result of the rise in the middle class across the global south than due to the waves of internal migration from rural to ur- ban homes. “The journey from tradition to modernity is neither inevitable nor painless; on the contrary, it is accompa- nied by profound turbulence,” she says. “I think we are all aware of the suc- cesses, they are present all around us. But I was more interested in the fallout, in the dark corners of this phenomenon.” How will the global south In New Kings Of The World Bhutto talks about a sorrow in India that the impact us culturally? lush, unadulterated fantasy of Bolly- wood masks. As a writer living in Kara- More than just an economic phenomenon; the chi, she says it’s impossible to escape global south will change the way we consume the “incredible poverty and injustice across South Asia”. “It’s overwhelming. our TV, movies and music, says Fatima Bhutto But films are a projection of a fantasy – they are about how a country or a people WORDS: BEN EAST wish to be seen, rather than what they really are.” And how they wish to be Fatima Bhutto is recalling the time she Shah Rukh Khan is still lit- seen on the global stage – dizi’s most fa- met Bollywood superstar Shah Rukh tle-known in the West. But he’s one of mous export, Magnificent Century, has Khan in Dubai. The idea was to watch the icons of a vast cultural movement been seen by over 500 million people him film an Egyptian prank show and emerging from the global south en- worldwide – will become increasingly understand something about a man compassing Bollywood, Turkish soap important, states Bhutto. who many people see as emblematic of operas (known as dizi, and which have “All of the currents I talk about in the success, hope, and pride. But the more made Turkey second only to the US book will magnify and expand,” she says. time she spent with him, the more she in worldwide television distribution) “Look at the Chinese app Tik Tok and how realised that Shah Rukh Khan repre- and Korean pop music. In her most it’s taking over social media. People dis- sented something far more intriguing. recent book, New Kings Of The World: miss it as frivolous but this is soft power at “Here I was speaking to an Indian Dispatches From Bollywood, Dizi and play – without anyone noticing.” star in the Emirates, shooting an Egyp- K-Pop, which Bhutto will discuss at the tian show on a Saudi-owned channel,” Emirates Airline Festival of Literature For more about the Emirates Airline Festival she says. “And that’s the power of cul- this month, she argues this movement of Literature, there’s a TV channel and a pod- ture – the past century was dominated is the biggest challenge to America’s cast on today’s flight. Pick up the ice magazine by America but the 21st century is un- monopoly of soft power since the end in your seat pocket for full channel listings of

doubtedly going to be an Asian one.” of the Second World War. the entertainment on board. IMAGE: CAROLINE ISSA

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66 / EXPO 2020

EXPO 2020 DUBAI’S REMARKABLE STRUCTURES WILL REFLECT A GALAXY OF STARCHITECTS A glittering array of talent has been assembled to create the incredible home of The World’s Greatest Show

World Expos have a proud heritage as genuine drivers of zeitgeist-setting archi- tecture, responsible for countless iconic buildings that have gone down in the history books – from Crystal Palace at the first Expo in 1851 in London onwards. The Eiffel Tower in Paris (1889), the Atomium in Brussels (1958) and the Biosphere in Montreal (1967) are just three more ex- amples of how Expos have transformed cityscapes across the world. As the most international World Expo of all time, Expo 2020 will be no exception, presenting the next gener- ation of iconic architecture that will live on long after the event closes on 10 April 2021 – designed by a fitting- ly globe-spanning combined team of starchitects representing the celebrat- ed cream of the planet’s talent.

AL WASL PLAZA One of the key architectural feats of Expo 2020’s creation was the completion of Al Wasl Plaza’s cavernous dome, spanning

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130 metres wide, stretching 67.5 metres PUBLIC REALM Once inside the site, visitors will nav- tall and weighing a total of 2,544 tonnes Perhaps the most poetic philosophy igate along a variety of tracks through – equivalent to 25 blue whales. The name behind the Expo site’s myriad elements 6km of concourse, with different ma- Al Wasl means ‘connection’ in Arabic, comes from renowned British architect terials used depending on the location and Al Wasl Plaza has been designed to Asif Khan. The man responsible for a and the type of movement expected. form a grand ‘urban room’ – a meeting storied show-reel of eye-grabbing struc- Khan describes how 50 ‘script’ bench- place that creates a shaded microcli- tures from numerous previous mega es, a series of sculpted benches that each mate. The intricate trellis design evokes events speaks with verve and charisma spell out a significant word in Arabic the Expo logo, inspired by a 4,000-year- about the thinking that informed his script, will “wrap the site like a poem”. old ancient ring discovered at Saruq Al designs for the Public Realm. The final designs were realised with the Hadid, an archeological site in the UAE. The experiential journey begins aid of Arabic typography expert Lara Designed by Chicago-based Adrian from the gates of Expo: the three En- Captan. Each bench is influenced by its Smith + Gordon Gill Architecture, Al try Portals that form the doors to The word – for example, ‘dream’ is designed Wasl Plaza will become a focal point for World’s Greatest Show are positioned to be made from hammocks. Expo’s most high-profile concerts and at the entrance to each of the Themat- events, including the spectacular open- ic Districts. Khan calls them his “best THEMATIC DISTRICTS ing ceremony in October. Al Wasl Plaza work” yet, explaining how air and shad- The overlapping Venn diagram that will become a landmark for the ages as a ow play an important part in how the forms Expo 2020’s site masterplan in- core part of Expo’s legacy in barrier-push- design runs with Islamic mashrabiya corporates three ‘petals’ that comprise ing, forward-thinking future city District architecture to create remarkable gate- the Thematic Districts, connected to the 2020, continuing as an events hub to in- ways that will present different experi- aforementioned central Al Wasl Plaza.

spire generations to come. ences depending on the time of day. Each district reflects one of the three EID/EXPO 2020 DUBAI IMAGES: DANY

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subthemes of Opportunity, Mobility and Sustainability, anchored by a cor- responding Thematic Pavilion, with the pavilions of the 192 participating coun- tries split between the districts. Subtle use of shapes and colours gives each district distinct characteris- tics: circles and green shades (Sustain- ability); triangles and blue (Mobility); squares and a warm sand colour (Op- portunity). The shapes are abstract, but rooted in Islamic geometry. British firm Hopkins and Partners is the brains behind the districts, inspired by Dubai’s historic Al Fahidi area, with façades resembling traditional Emirati wind towers and walkways lined with indigenous flora. Other innovative features include smart shading (evok- ing a palm grove oasis), solar cells and moisture-capturing mechanisms – all lending Expo a distinctly Middle East- ern feel. The Thematic Districts will also live on as part of District 2020. “It’s a fantastic feeling to be part of this event,” says Simon C Fraser, Hopkins’ Principal and Lead Designer. “We’ve created something to last and be de- veloped and changed over years. It has been a great journey.”

MOBILITY PAVILION The Mobility Pavilion’s eye-catching ribbed and curved shape was designed by Foster + Partners, the award-win- ture. Almost every element contributes Previous pages: Designed by ning British architectural design and to that status, from the 130-metre wide Chicago-based Adrian Smith + Gordon engineering firm led by acclaimed ar- canopy featuring more than 1,055 solar Gill Architecture, Al Wasl Plaza will become a focal point for Expo’s most chitect Norman Foster. panels, to the mini forest of ‘energy trees’ high-profile concerts and events The pavilion’s dynamic form evokes that rotate to face the sun. The building’s This page: Innovative features the motion of mobility, with its con- tech will produce four gigawatt hours including smart shading evoking a tents exploring the movement of peo- per year of electricity – enough to charge palm grove oasis lend Expo a distinctly ple, goods and services, capital, data, more than 890,000 mobile phones. Middle Eastern feel ideas and cultures. Almost 10 tonnes of reclaimed wood Physical features include the world’s will cover the pavilion auditorium (joint) largest lift, which can accommo- walls, while the orientation of the fun- date more than 160 people, while a partly nel-shaped canopy will create air flows underground, partly open-air 340-me- that naturally ventilate a courtyard, as tre track will allow visitors to see cut- well as letting in light, helping to reduce ting-edge mobility devices in action. energy requirements. The pavilion sits partially below ground, ensuring it is SUSTAINABILITY PAVILION cooler than the ambient temperature, Conceived by UK-founded Grimshaw while the canopy also creates vital shade. Architects, the Sustainability Pavilion is Repurposed as a Children and Science designed to meet LEED Platinum green Centre post-Expo, the groundbreaking building standards – the highest availa- structure is set to continue as a beacon of To learn more, watch Expo 2020 Dubai ble accreditation for sustainable architec- sustainability for decades to come. in Emirates & Dubai TV on ice.

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Enjoy responsibly - www.moët.com 22/01/2020 10:53 Emirates

NEWS ° INSIDE EMIRATES ° DESTINATION ° UAE SMART GATE ° ROUTE MAP ° FLEET

HeadlineDiscounts lab ilite lautin Dubai laut elecae LoremEmirates ipsum passengers Obit aut flying asped to quasserspel and through molo Dubai dolesequam can take advantage es eum nonsequamus of the city’s offeringsamenduciati at a velitdiscount, autas ipsandel ipsam a deliquat Ehenihillowith the il returnel ium facepeof My Emirates venihil itatias Pass. p.72ant volum velecerovid ullesec p.20

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can take advantage of and explore the My Emirates Pass country’s many exciting attractions, including waterparks, wellness centres, and shopping malls. returns this winter The pass offers 30 per cent off popular retail outlets and international fashion brands, and up to 50 per cent off fine dining options, leisure activities and spa services in world-class hotels. To unlock the benefits of My Emirates Pass, customers can simply show their Emirates boarding pass and a valid form of identification at any of the participating outlets*. UAE residents flying back home can also take advantage and start the year with special savings. Mohammad Al Hashimi, Emirates’ Vice President, Commercial Products Dubai, said: “We are delighted to bring back My Emirates Pass this winter season. Customers visiting or stopping over in Dubai will have more reasons to explore with unbeatable deals on some of the UAE’s best attractions. As the world’s fourth-most visited city, Dubai awes travellers each time with its ever-growing list of attractions and entertainment options. We look Use your Emirates boarding pass to enjoy up to 50 per cent off on leisure activities forward to continue working closely around Dubai such as golfing, skiing, seaplane tours, desert safaris and theme parks with our partners and to always provide our customers the best Dubai and the With special benefits and discounts benefits and discounts of up to 50 per UAE has to offer.” at more than 500 retail outlets and cent in over 500 retail outlets and For more information on leisure destinations across the UAE, leisure destinations across the UAE. Emirates, including how to book Emirates has announced the return of The airline’s signature pass enables flights and a complete list of terms its signature pass. My Emirates Pass Emirates passengers flying to and and conditions for this offer, visit turns an Emirates boarding pass into an through Dubai from 1 January until 31 emirates.com/myemiratespass. exclusive membership card, allowing March 2020 to see more for less during customers to take advantage of special their stopover or holiday. Customers *Local terms and conditions apply

NEW BRAZILIAN THEMED yolks and ground coconut. Emirates’ DESSERT ON OFFER OVER team of chefs have designed the sweet RIO CARNIVAL treat with a colourful garnish, in support of the vibrant carnival celebrations. This year, Emirates will offer a special The dessert will be served from 17- dessert called Quindim, onboard across 29 February, on flights between Dubai all classes, in celebration of the Carnival and Brazil. of Brazil, an annual Brazilian festival that Emirates’ festive celebrations on marks the beginning of Lent, the forty- board and on the ground are part of its day period before Easter. commitment to enhance its customer Quindim is a popular Brazilian baked experience with unique and seasonal dessert, made primarily from sugar, egg offerings.

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EMIRATES PLEDGES FUNDS TO BUSHFIRE RELIEF IN AUSTRALIA To help contribute to bushfire relief in Australia, Emirates is donating 10% of all EmiratesRED sales on every flight until 16 February 2020, and matching this dollar-for-dollar. The proceeds will go towards the recovery and rebuilding efforts taking place in the communities affected across Australia. “We are deeply saddened by the bushfires in Australia and the impact they have had on families, communities, wildlife and businesses across the country. At Emirates we’d like to do our part not only through monetary contributions, but also to use our global reach to help to maintain awareness and support, and to drive donations for recovery and rebuilding efforts,” said Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates Airline. Plant-based meals a popular “Emirates is also waiving flight change fees for residents affected choice for Veganuary by the fires, many of whom we With the rising popularity of vegan wild rice and tandoori broccolini; know have had their lives greatly meals amongst its customers, Emirates Shitake Ravioli served with coriander impacted already.” celebrated the worldwide movement pesto and edamame; Ancho three The airline is also supporting Veganuary on board by including an bean chilli, a spiced vegan stew of its workforce, which includes additional plant-based option that peppers and beans served with corn more than 1,000 Australians, on 80,000 travellers opted for in January. cakes, chimichurri and tofu aioli; other employee-led fund-raising While vegan meals can be pre- Shitake fried rice served with sautéed initiatives to contribute to the bushfire relief efforts. booked on all flights and classes, this asparagus and oyster mushrooms and is the first time Emirates included a Marmite sauce; and Misir Wat – an readily available vegan option on its Ethiopian style spicy red lentil stew, menus. The plant-based meal was served with sauteed spinach and available as a fourth main course spiced potatoes and carrots. option in First and Business Class On all other routes and across all menus on flights from Dubai to USA, classes throughout the year, customers Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South can continue to request vegan meals, Africa and Addis Ababa. Emirates also along with other special meals, 24 offered a vegan option in Economy on hours before departure. flights to Addis Ababa in January. Emirates’ vegan meals are created Last year, Emirates served 345,000 by its team of chefs and nutritionists special plant-based meals to customers and come complete with vegan on board. The airline has over 170 desserts. A special vegan cheese was vegan recipes in its kitchen and for also introduced in Economy Class and For more information on the various January served new dishes including the airline has a vegan option as part of initiatives in the UAE, check out Tofu Jalfrezi, a spiced tofu and its gourmet chocolate programme in the #MatesHelpMates campaign vegetable stir fry served with steamed premium classes. hashtag on social media.

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Restoring smiles Children received life-changing surgeries in Bangladesh with the help of Progretto Sorriso and Emirates

The Emirates Airline Foundation supported air travel for 15 volunteer surgeons and medical professionals who journeyed to Bangladesh to per- form craniofacial surgeries, particu- larly for paediatric malformations. Working for Italian organisation Progetto Sorriso Nel Mondo Onlus, their travel on Emirates was sup- ported by Skywards Miles donated by customers to the Emirates Airline Foundation. Over the years, thanks to the work of Progretto Sorriso, over 3,000 children in Khulna, Bangladesh, have received life-changing surgery for craniofacial disorders. Left un- treated, these conditions can have Progretto Sorriso’s main goal is the first steps towards the social re- life-threatening consequences, and to bring high standards and quality integration of the patient. We are limit a person’s chances of ever liv- to the developing world. They focus proud to see kids enjoying a happy ing a normal life. on continuity of treatment and have childhood and their first experienc- Progretto Sorriso has delivered provided successful outcomes for es of ‘normal’ life, finally shared with continuous surgical missions in the over two decades. their peers.” same city in Bangladesh for the past Speaking about the mission, Dr 24 years. The missions took place at Andrea DiFrancesco MD said, “Our Learn more about the foundation Saint Mary’s Sick Assistance Hospital contributions to grant a socially ac- in the newsletter in your seat in Khulna, the fourth largest city in ceptable appearance – through the pocket, where you’ll find a donation south Bangladesh, with an estimated restoration of smiles, the universal envelope. You can also donate online population of three million people. language of reassurance – are only at emiratesairlinefoundation.org

EMIRATES INKS AGREEMENT WITH CHINA’S LEADING ONLINE TRAVEL AGENCY

Emirates has signed a Memorandum customised products to suit members of aspects, big data analysis and marketing of Understanding (MoU) with Trip.com both loyalty programmes will be explored strategy development. Group, a one-stop travel service provider. and the partnership will potentially pave Emirates was the first airline to The agreement was signed in Shanghai by the way for joint initiatives on technical establish non-stop connectivity between executives of both companies, signalling the Middle East and mainland China in the start of a strategic cooperation 2004. Today, Emirates operates 35 flights between Emirates and Trip.com Group and a week to mainland China, all operated allowing the airline to expand its reach in by the airline’s flagship A380 aircraft, the Chinese market. with twice daily services to both Beijing The mutual cooperation includes joint and Shanghai, and daily services to marketing promotions and other marketing Guangzhou. After a convenient transfer in initiatives to boost Emirates’ sales via Dubai, passengers can travel to over 150 Trip.com Group’s online platforms. In the destinations on Emirates’ global network future, collaborations aimed at providing spanning six continents.

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76  INSIDE EMIRATES

A Year of Achievements Emirates a Emirates ar e 20 it a sess stri prt etr a stmer eperiee iits.

OVER US$27 MILLION 58 MILLION EE EE E US$24.8 BILLION EE E EE A380 NETWORK EE OVER 3,500 FLIGHTS EE E EE 3 NEW PASSENGER ROUTES E E 26 CODESHARE PARTNERS AND 159 GLOBAL DESTINATIONS 156 INTERLINE OUR FIRST REMOTE PARTNERS IN CHECK-IN TERMINAL 200 E E E EE

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NEW PARTNERSHIPS

FORGED EMIRATES SKYWARDS E E E 19 LANGUAGES E E E E EE EE EE 25 MILLION EE GLOBAL SPONSORSHIPS Emirates SkyCargo E E 20 20 360,000 PARCELS EE E EEE EE EE LAUNCH OF EMIRATES DELIVERS

400,000 TONNES EE 25 PHARMA STATIONS EE E EE EE

A 12% INCREASE E EE E E EE

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Japan Where traditional charm meets modern luxury Few places on Earth are as captivating as Ja- pan. In the capital of Tokyo, the marriage of old and new is ever-present. Age-old alleyways that were once the domain of geisha are now home to cutting-edge restaurants, and tradi- tional-style guesthouses reside in ultra-mod- ern skyscrapers. In the heart of the city, a short stroll from the Imperial Palace brings you to the glamour of Ginza, lined with flagship bou- tiques and five-star hotels. With more Michelin stars than any other city, Tokyo’s culinary scene is justifiably re- vered. Duck your head beneath the curtains at the restaurants’ entrance to discover intricate kaiseki menus inspired by the seasons, and intimate sushi restaurants with just a handful of seats. Place your faith in the chefs by saying ‘Omakase’, which means “I’ll leave it up to you” – you won’t be disappointed. A two-and-a-half hour ride on the shin- kansen (bullet train) brings you to Osaka, a port city known for its modern architecture and mouthwatering street food. Soak up the history of Osaka Castle, pay a visit to the Osa- ka Aquarium (one of the world’s largest), then shop for avant-garde designs in the Umeda and Namba neighbourhoods. As night falls, make your way to the din- ing and nightlife precinct of Dotonbori, where stallholders grill and fry snacks to order, and there’s eye-popping neon at every turn. Further afield, explore Japan’s breathtak- ing natural scenery. Wander the laneways of the ancient capital of Kyoto; take to the ski slopes of Sapporo; or soak in the hot springs while you gaze at Mount Fuji from the quaint town of Hakone, a short train ride from Tokyo. WORDS: SARAH GAMBONI, IMAGE BY MANUEL COSENTINO WORDS: SARAH GAMBONI, IMAGE BY

Emirates serves three destina- tions in Japan with nonstop daily flights between Dubai and Tokyo Haneda, Tokyo Narita and Osaka.

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TSKII ISH KAISEKI DOTONORI MARKET TOKYO EERIENCE DISTRICT OSAKA The frenetic auctions Dining is elevated to an Osaka is renowned for of the inner market artform in Japan’s kai- its tantalising street have relocated, but seki restaurants, serv- foods including takoya- the narrow streets of ing multi-course menus ki (octopus balls), Tsukiji’s Outer Market in keeping with the okonomiyaki (savoury are still one of the seasons. In Tokyo, fi nd pancakes) and ramen fi nest places to sample three-Michelin-starred noodle soup. Sample pristine seafood. Try Ishikawa in the old them all as you stroll Sushi Dai for faultless geisha neighbourhood down Dotonbori, a nigiri, Segawa for of Kagurazaka, or nab vibrant dining and maguro donburi (tuna a spot at Ginza Kojyu – entertainment strip rice bowls), or Tempura with only eight seats in famed as much for its Kurokawa for crisp the house, you’ll need to culinary offerings as its tempura. book well in advance. iconic neon signs.

IMERIAL HOTEL HOSHINOYA ST REGIS OSAKA TOKYO TOKYO Situated on Midosuji, Japanese refi nement For a luxurious take the ‘Champs-Elysees reigns at this prestigious on a Japanese ryokan of Osaka’, the St. Regis hotel that dates back to (guesthouse), check is a short stroll from 1890. Located near the into Hoshinoya, set Dotonbori, Osaka Cas- shopping and business between Tokyo Station tle and the stores of hubs of Ginza and and the Imperial Pal- Shinsaibashi-suji. This Marunouchi, it’s well ace. Slide your shoes fi ve-star hotel embod- placed to explore the off and slip into a ies sophistication, with capital. Enjoy elegant jersey kimono for your personal butlers, smart rooms and exceptional stay in this 18-storey bars and restaurants, dining, including French inn, boasting tatami and 160 rooms deco- haute cuisine and a mats, futon bedding rated with Japanese traditional teahouse. and onsen baths. silks and ceramics. imperialhotel.co.jp hoshinoya.com marriott.co.jp

GINA TOKYO TOKYO’S ARKS OSAKA CASTLE Tokyo’s premier shop- For a change of pace In Osaka, explore the ping district, Ginza’s in Tokyo, stroll through fairy-tale surrounds of Chuo Dori is lined with the ginko forest of Osaka Castle, ringed high-end boutiques of- Yoyogi Park until you by moats, turrets and fering everything from reach the Meiji Shrine, citadels. Within the sneakers to stationery, a tranquil escape from castle’s sprawling and luxury department the hustle of nearby gardens, share a stores such as Ginza Harajuku. Or, make picnic under the shade Wako, Ginza Six, and your way to Rikugien of cherry blossom Tokyu Plaza Ginza. Garden in Bunkyo-ku, trees, visit the Hokoku End your day with a sanctuary of ponds, Shrine and the Illusion an exceptional sushi shaded walkways, Museum, or cruise the meal at Kyubey and flame-coloured maples moats on a traditional a Kabuki show at the in autumn and cherry wooden boat. Kabukiza Theatre. blossoms in spring. osakacastle.net

OS_022020_P78-79_Destination.indd 79 1/23/20 3:29 PM 80 / EMIRATES / UAE SMART GUIDE

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES* Be smart! *All customers should be registered to use Use UAE Smart Gates the UAE Smart Gates at Dubai International airport

UAE Citizens of the countries can check in and out of the listed on the right and UAE airport within seconds. residents can speed through Just look out for signs Andorra Australia Austria Bahamas Dubai International by us- that will direct you to the ing UAE Smart Gates. many UAE Smart Gates If you hold a machine- found on either side of the readable passport, an E-Gate Immigration Hall at Dubai Belgium Brunei Bulgaria Canada card or Emirates ID card you International Airport.

China Croatia Cyprus Czech Republic USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

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Iceland Ireland Italy Japan Go through the open gate and place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you Latvia Liechtenstein Lithuania Luxembourg are a UAE resident, place 2 your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot.

Malaysia Malta Monaco Netherlands

Stand on the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and New Zealand Norway Poland Portugal stand still for your iris scan. 3 When finished, the next set

of gates opens. Romania Russia San Marino Seychelles

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY Singapore Slovakia Slovenia South Korea To register for Smart Gate access, just spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer and that’s it. Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed. Spain Sweden Switzerland United Kingdom

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT

Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re USA Vatican City travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa) passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three terminals at DXB. UAE SMART GATES CAN BE USED BY: • Machine-readable passports from the above countries We endeavour to keep this information as up-to-date as possible; however, for the defin- • E-Gate cards itive list, please contact Dubai General Directorate of Residency and Foreigners Affairs • Emirates ID cards

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K 82 / EMIRATES / ROUTE MAP

GLOBAL ROUTES *Suspended **Seasonal service

Emirates Amsterdam Auckland Bangkok Barcelona Beiing Birmingham Brisbane Cairo Casablanca Christchurch Copenhagen Dusseldor Frankurt Glasgow Guangzhou Hamburg Hong Kong Houston Jeddah Johannesburg Kuala Lumpur Kuwait London Los Angeles Madrid Manchester Mauritius Melbourne Milan Moscow Mumbai Munich Muscat New ork Nice saka Paris Perth Prague Riyadh Rome San Francisco So Paulo Seoul Shanghai Singapore Sydney aipei A380 ROUTES A380 okyo oronto Vienna ashington DC Zurich Emirates route flydubai route Routes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to Routes shown are

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A AA A U A A ith codeshare partners around the world ( airlines and an airrail codeshare arrangement with Frances SNCFGV Air and Italys renitalia) Emirates has even more light options

eectively expanding its network by partners for full details on our travel over destinations emirates.com Visit

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MIDDLE EAST

Emirates route flydubai route AFRICA *Suspended **Seasonal service Routes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to Routes shown are

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ASIA & PACIFIC

EUROPE & CENTRAL ASIA

**Seasonal service

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AMERICAS

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

Freighter destinations Routes shown are as of time of going to press as of time going to Routes shown are

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88  EMIRATES  FLEET

mrates eet ur fleet of aircraft includes passenger aircraft and freighters

Visual of A380 Orange livery

AIRBUS A380-800 I EET

All aircrat

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SECIA IERY he Emirates Aircrat Appearance Centre installs a number o eye catching decals on Emirates aircrat Here are ust a ew to look out or AE I SACE AE EO AI YEAR YEAR O TOERACE ITE OR IIE ITE irraft numers aurate at the time of going to press or more information more or press at the time of going to numers aurate irraft

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K GO SEE THIS At the epicentre of Abu Dhabi’s sprawling modern metropolis lies the city’s oldest and most historic building, the Qasr Al Hosn Fort. Home to the emirate’s ruling elite for centuries, the national monument opened as a museum in 2018, following more than a decade of restoration work and now showcases the development of Abu Dhabi from a fishing and pearl settlement to a global tourism destination.

Want to know more about Dubai? Press the “i” button on your inflight entertainment screen ABU DHABI 24.4539° N, 54.3773° E to discover lots of information about sightseeing, dining, getting around and much more.

OS_022020_P90_LastPage.indd 90 1/23/20 3:38 PM NOTHING BEATS A SIMPLE TECHNICAL PREMISE; EVEN IT IS DIFFICULT TO BRING TO LIFE.

THE VITROCSA SLIDING SYSTEM CAN BE ADAPTED TO SUIT ANY SITUATION, ALLOWING INNOVATIVE DEVELOPMENTS WITH AN INFINITE RANGE OF VERSIONS.

ANDERMAN ARCHITECTS

MORE INFORMATION ON VITROCSA.CH/PRODUCTS/SLIDING