A Journey in Sustainable Tourism

Photo: PROMPERU Sustainable Tourism Waterfall in the amazon. (Photo: Jaime Chávez, PROMPERU) Introduction with a Peruvian Accent

Sustainable tourism is all about enjoying authentic cultural and natural experiences, work being done by the government, private and getting a true sense of a destination enterprise and NGOs here is exemplary and its people. It’s a deeper, and a more in terms of protecting natural resources, rewarding experience. preserving cultural heritage and promoting The Purpose of fair and just economic development. Sustainable tourism is a natural for Peru. Visitors here enjoy a wide array of The national government of Peru has historically this Brochure natural and cultural wonders. From the recognized the significance of our natural Andes to the Amazon, the culture of resources. Today 17.51% of our country is a The world is changing. An ever-increasing the Incas to that of the Spanish, Peru is natural protected area. Peru boasts 76 Natural number of people are looking beyond rife with sustainable tourism attractions Protected Areas, 21 Regional Conservation themselves and considering their actions and experiences. Areas and 134 Private Conservation Areas within the larger context of what is good (PCAs). These PCAs are especially significant In Peru, there’s a deep love and respect for the planet and its people. The global because they exemplify how government for the Earth and its inhabitants that goes sustainability movement is growing. and private citizens can successfully work back for centuries. The Incas worshiped More and more people are concerned together toward a common goal. Pachamama, or Mother Earth. Every Incan about the issues facing the planet. feast began with a challa—a toast to Mother Environmental responsibility is not the only They’re acknowledging their actions have Earth, where the first sip of chicha (corn way sustainable tourism is manifesting in consequences, and are taking steps to lessen beer) is poured on the ground in gratitude Peru. New economic opportunities provided their impacts and influence positive change. for the meal to come. The reverence for the by private enterprises in the tourism industry contemporary energy from cutting-edge artists, Governments are rethinking policy. Scientists land extends to all living creatures, which are helping communities, especially those in designers, architects and, of course, chefs. are uncovering innovative solutions. Private helps explain why Peru is among the most remote locations, improve their quality of life, industry is taking bold steps, and the media biodiverse countries in the world. Peru is becoming increasingly recognized as and maintain centuries-old cultural traditions. is reporting it all to the world. the Gastronomic Capital of The Americas. Our

A JOURNEY IN There are over 1,800 species of birds in There are numerous stories of how Peru unique geography, and rich biodiversity yield As the global sustainability movement Peru, which attract eager bird watchers and its people are helping to advance, and a vast variety of ingredients, many of which becomes increasingly popular and powerful, from around the world. Additionally, there are benefitting from, sustainable tourism are native to Peru. Our two ocean currents—El it will have a massive effect on the travel/ are numerous non-profit organizations on initiatives throughout the country. As Niño and the Humboldt—produce hundreds of tourism industry. Of course, this movement the ground in Peru, working to conserve the national government tourism office, species of fish and seafood, which gave birth SUSTAINABLE TOURISM is having a massive effect on the travel/ natural resources. PROMPERU is pleased to help tell those to ceviche. And large waves of immigrants— tourism industry. The growth of sustainable stories, so that tourism stakeholders in Peru The cultural treasures of Peru are equally Chinese, Japanese, Africans, and Europeans

tourism is testament to the fact that many INTRODUCTION and around the world can celebrate them, impressive. Peru is rich in cultural offerings — enriched our indigenous traditions with of today’s travelers understand the impact and learn from them. That is the purpose of from its indigenous people in traditional garb new techniques and flavors. their visits have on a destination, and want this brochure. to its 3,000 different festivals, from its iconic to take responsibility for that. Other industry A visit to Peru is an opportunity to witness ancient archaeological sites – such as Caral, stakeholders are embracing the tenets of We hope that the stories contained in the sustainability travel movement in the oldest city in the Americas or Chan Chan, sustainable tourism, as well. this brochure will educate, entertain and action. Peruvian culture and respect for the the largest adobe brick citadel in the world, inspire you, and that together, we can help environment is so well engrained here, it’s Peru has been committed to advancing and mysterious desert glyphs – the Nazca the sustainable tourism movement continue a day-to-day occurrence, as common—and sustainable tourism for many years. The lines. Beautiful colonial cities bristle with 2 to advance. vital—as the air we breathe. 3 An Interview With Shannon Stowell

If you think about mass tourism and the “Hey, we’re watching turtle populations here, PROMPERU recently sat down with impacts it can have, and the destinations and they’re dropping, and one of the reasons Shannon Stowell, Chief Executive Officer that are suffering with mismanaged, or why is people are riding 4 x 4s on the beach.” of the Adventure Travel Trade Association undermanaged tourism, it’s discouraging. And then there are travelers. Travelers need (ATTA), an industry trade group with If you use up your natural resources by to start asking the right questions. Questions over 1,300 members representing 100 allowing them to be overconsumed, in the like, what sort of investment have you made countries worldwide. Since re-starting the future you’re going to be less desirable. Ten in environmental responsibility in your organization in 2004, Stowell has led the or twenty years from now, the destinations business? Or, tell me how you work with ATTA in advancing responsible, sustainable that protect themselves from this sort of local people in your destination. adventure travel practices. He has been overtourism are going to be the ones most advising and speaking around the world for Closing thoughts - where do you see in demand. Sustainable tourism is going to the last 13 years, advocating for responsible Sustainable Tourism going in the future? bring Peru travelers who care about their adventure tourism as a powerful way for natural and cultural offers. SS: I think ALL tourism should be challenged destinations to benefit from a business to be more and more sustainable. Climate, that sits at the intersection commerce, What are the responsibilities of the travel/ environment, social environments- all should conservation and community. tourism industry’s various stakeholders? be taken into consideration by all tourism How do you (ATTA) define “Sustainable SS: I think back to [former Canadian] development activities. main shift--more people care and more Tourism?” Ambassador Tim Martin’s speech on “the people know more about the subject. The The exciting thing is that a lot more people magic triangle,” and how really thorny Shannon Stowell: We don’t have an official days of hanging your towel on the rack at are interested in travelling well, and going to problems only get solved when governments, definition but I agree fully with the UNWTO’s the hotel as your sustainable action are destinations that are managing themselves well. NGOs and business all attack the same definition: “Tourism that takes full account of over (or should be where they are not!). I problem. I would add in the media, and call We’re in an environment now, where a place its current and future economic, social and do think there’s still a very long way to go it “the magic diamond.” And the traveler is in like Peru is really in a good position to environmental impacts, addressing the needs in both industry adoption and consumer A JOURNEY IN the center of that diamond. All these groups take advantage of this increasing trend of of visitors, the industry, the environment awareness/demand. bear a responsibility. more responsible tourists, more responsible and host communities.” How do destinations (like Peru) benefiting tourism, taking care of their natural assets I think tour operators bear a responsibility, How does Adventure Travel fit into from Sustainable Tourism? through tourism that protects rather than because they know better than most how Sustainable Tourism? exploits. Travelers are asking for this more SS: Sustainable tourism focuses on value, much a specific destination can handle. I think SUSTAINABLE TOURISM and more, and lots of tour operators are SS: Because adventure travel (as we not volume. Peru’s wonderful and fragile the media bears some responsibility for how being very clear in communicating what kind define it) focuses on nature and culture, environment and local cultures could benefit they report on destinations. I understand of tourism they offer. INTRODUCTION we believe that it is critical for adventure greatly from travelers and companies that they’re in a really tough spot on that, because travel companies to do their best to protect do not sacrifice them for business’ sake. they want to tell the stories of the places that All tourism should be moving toward these assets. When I look at the two ends of the scale: haven’t been discovered, but we’ve all seen sustainability. I also recognize that no one’s high volume/low margin/high impact on lots of examples of overrun. Government doing it perfectly, but lots of people are on the What are the most dramatic changes have environment and society vs lower volume/ bears a very important responsibility to path. I’d like to hear every tourism company you seen in Sustainable Tourism over the high margin/low impact on environment regulate, to help keep tourism at appropriate out there say, “Here is how we are moving our past years? and society, the choice of which direction levels. The NGOs are really important. They business toward sustainable tourism.” to steer seems clear to me. 4 SS: More mainstreaming seems to be the have to be watchdogs, and to be able to say, 5 Table of Map of Contents Peru

Amazonas River

Pacaya Samiria National Reserve Abra Patricia Tingana Ecological Reserve Marañón River Chaparrí Cacao Route

Private Conservation Area Huascarán Forest El Cañoncillo CHAPTER 1 The Heart of The Amazon 08 National Park Huayhuash CHAPTER 2 Birding Paradise 18 Mountain Range

Manu National CHAPTER 3 30 Trees that Walk and Miracle Crops Lima Park Machu Picchu CHAPTER 4 38 Wildlife of the Dry Forest Sacred Valley Tambopata National

CHAPTER 5 48 Reserve

A JOURNEY IN Trekking the Peruvian Switzerland San Fernando National Reserve

CHAPTER 6 60 Colca Canyon Nourishment for Body and Soul Lake Tititaca Arequipa CHAPTER 7 Andean Communities Open their Doors 74 SUSTAINABLE TOURISM CHAPTER 8 Life Between Volcanoes and Canyons 84 INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 9 Nature at its Finest 92

CHAPTER 10 Keeping a Way of Life Afloat 106

6 7 Photo: PROMPERU The Heart of The Amazon LORETO A JOURNEY IN

It’s ironic that Peru’s largest region is also one Loreto is home to the Pacaya-Samiria National CHAPTER ONE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM of its least populated. The Amazon jungle has Reserve (PSNR) and the Allpahuayo Mishana a lot to do with that. Located in the northeast National Reserve. The area is perfectly suited corner of Peru, the region of Loreto covers for fans of nature and biodiversity, bird, wildlife over 140,000 square miles (about one-third and flower watchers, and those interested in

of all Peru), and has a population of under mysticism and local village traditions. LORETO half a million, with most of those living in the capital city of Iquitos.

8 9 • The natural habitat of this freshwater, A slow ride through Pacaya Samiria. (Photo: WWF) semi-aquatic and partly terrestrial turtle traditionally extended across We like most of tropical South America. • Yellow-spotted side-necked turtles are among the largest turtles found in South America.

Turtles • They can grow up to 45 centimeters (17 inches) in length and weigh up to 8 kilograms (17 pounds). )

N SOME QUICK FACTS A • Females tend to be considerably larger N R S E than males. m S : a o l t l, o b h • The females lay two clutches of eggs u (P t . d k e c t a each year, each with four to 35 eggs e b rm g in in ed om in it. , th e c e taricaya ar • Eggs will hatch 66 to 159 days after they are laid.

Slowly but surely, over the years, the Taricaya Taricaya Conservation. For more information please contact [email protected] population was becoming decimated.

Also known as the yellow Amazon river turtle For many families, the Taricaya, which are The National Service of Natural Protected Areas (SERNANP) is a specialised technical public body (Podocnemis unifilis), these turtles were on unique to South America, represented their under the Ministry of Environment, responsible for directing and establishing the technical and administrative criteria for the conservation of Natural Protected Areas (ANP) and the maintenance the verge of extinction due to the illegal livelihood. Their protection was critical. of biological diversity. The SERNANP is the governing body of the National System of Protected poaching of their eggs. Had that happened, The plan for bringing back the Taricaya Natural Areas by the State (SINANPE) and carries out its work in coordination with regional and several local Amazon communities would A JOURNEY IN in Pacaya Simiria was relatively simple. local governments. The mission is to ensure the conservation of the ANP and its biodiversity and the have lost their primary source of revenue. maintenance of environmental services in the context of participatory management. SERNANP and the communities build artificial In 2000, things changed. In that year, beaches for the turtles to lay their eggs SERNANP, the Peruvian Parks Service, during reproductive season. The eggs are started the management of the Taricaya in guarded by community members to prevent CHAPTER ONE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. The poaching. Once the hatchlings emerge—about Peruvian government agency’s first step was 55 to 70 days later—40% are released into Today this program is being run completely The Taricaya conservation program in Pacaya to conduct a study and assess the severity the wild, while the other 60% goes to the by the local communities, who have Samiria provides a shining model of how of the situation. Once that was completed, communities for commercial purposes. discovered an additional way to use the government and communities can work they banded together with leaders of the Taricaya to boost their economies without together to ensure natural resources can

The plan has been working. In 2018, the LORETO local communities. endangering the turtles—tourism. Many provide economic opportunity for people, Taricaya laid 2.3 million eggs, 1.7 million of tour operators now offer their guests the while continuing to thrive. Working together, they developed a plan which hatched, bringing over $1.3 million to opportunity to witness—and sometimes that would allow the Taricaya to recover, and 463 local families. Not only that, the Taricaya participate in—turtle conservation. generate additional income for the communities population has been growing annually.

10 within the natural protected areas. 11 water, and are classified as Endangered. (Photo: SERNANP) The Amazon river dolphin (aka, the pink dolphin) live in fresh A Business Born In The Amazon Gives Back

International Expeditions was born in the Amazon rainforest of Peru. Well, at least it was conceived there.

It all began when Richard Ryel first visited the At the time, there were non-stop flights He was introduced to travel-industry veteran area in around 1978. The college professor between Miami and Iquitos, and he felt Steve Cox, a visionary with a passion for turned restauranteur, and his fiancé traveled there were other people who would like to conservation and education, but who was to the Amazon region of Peru for about six visit the Amazon if they only knew how to not an avid naturalist. Together they formed weeks and fell in love with the rainforest while do it. The only tour to the Amazon offered International Expeditions in early 1980.

) staying in a rustic lodge. at the time was out of New York, and titled In the early 1990’s International Expeditions U R E P

A JOURNEY IN “Amazon Green Hell”–a horrible name for a began offering the International Amazon M Richard, an avid naturalist, birder, botanist and O R place Richard considered a green paradise. Rainforest Workshops. P , a butterfly collector, had a lightbulb moment; the t s T o w C i e best way to help protect the area he loved was Richard was an environmentalist and well- These one-week workshops would allow li in gh n t Ja on o: th hot through tourism. versed in natural history, but knew very little travelers to learn from local and international e Amazon. (P about the travel industry. rainforest experts, and develop a deep CHAPTER ONE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM the ACEER foundation, visit their website appreciation of the Amazon rainforest. “Every at aceer.org. cent that was earned through that was put into the projects, says Cox. “At that point we Today International Expeditions takes about “We thought about forming a non-profit,” says co-founder Cox, created our non-profit, the ACEER (Amazon a thousand guests per year to the Amazon

“but it was too complex. So we decided to form a for-profit Center for Environment, Education & Research) rainforest of Peru. LORETO travel company, and just put the earnings into the projects that Foundation, to administer this.” The International Expeditions ethos is are important. And conserevation and education in the Amazon Cox estimates that the revenue from the apparent in its Mission Statement: “The mission region of Peru is what it would be.” workshops allowed ACEER to protect almost of International Expeditions is to stimulate one million acres of rainforest. To support 12 13 The hoatzin. (Photo: NatHab Photos) “And that’s what we believe in to this day. We can’t do everything in the world, but what we can do, we need to do, and we need to do it well.” – STEVE COX FOUNDER: INTERNATIONAL EXPEDITIONS

with respect. IE even purchased an 18-foot International Expeditions also has an on- boat to more easily deliver these supplies to going, three-year relationship with one of the remote villages. the world’s largest conservation NGOs, The Nature Conservancy. Some IE trips to the Amazon allow guests Hab Photos) Squirrel monkey (Saimiri sciureus). (Photo: Nat to play a “hands-on” role with the Adopt- As part of this partnership, IE contributes A-School program. Guests who are less a portion of its trip price to The Nature interested in these activities can still support Conservancy to support its work around the program through donations, which IE the globe, including providing environmental matches up to $50,000 per year. planning support to indigenous organizations in the Peruvian Amazon. On some IE trips,

Mercon, NatHab Photos) (Bradypus variegatus). (Photo: Leonardo Brown-throated three-toed Sloth naturalists from The Nature Conservancy will tag along, providing guests with their first-hand knowledge of the region, and the conservation work being done there.

International Expeditions prides itself on taking a holistic view of eco-travel, and inspiring its guests to advocate for some of the world’s most fascinating—and fragile— locations. IE Media Relations Director & A JOURNEY IN Conservation Project Coordinator Emily Harley explains it this way, “True eco-travel an interest in, develop an understanding 1993, the Adopt-A-School program began

NatHab Photos) A scarlet macaw in flight. (Photo: encompasses history, food, wildlife, people of and create an appreciation for Earth’s by matching schools in the USA with rural and sometimes means finding the nature in most compelling wonders so that you’ll schools in the Amazon rainforest. It quickly CHAPTER ONE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM the culture and the culture in the nature.” be inspired to protect them for future grew into a donor based program, providing And that certainly is apparent in their efforts generations”. In the early 1990’s International rural schools and students with school supplies in Peru. Expeditions began offering International while promoting environmental education in Amazon Rainforest Workshops. their communities. Working with Amazon villages to further education and conservation is part of the The company continues to put its mission The program serves 120 schools with 4,200 LORETO International Expeditions DNA. “That’s how to work in Peru in the form of several local students and teachers in 71 communities we started,” says Cox, “and that’s what we community enriching projects. One such along the Amazon and Napo rivers. Before believe in to this day. We can’t do everything project in the Amazon Rainforest is the Adopt- a child receives books and supplies, the in the world, but what we can do, we need to A-School program. Created by CONAPAC, parents sign a pledge to send their children do, and we need to do it well.” 14 a local NGO which IE helped to found, in to school every day and to use the supplies 15 (Photo: J.J. Hu, WWF-US) The Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve is known for its dense biodiversity. Big Is Beautiful The Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve

The first thing you need to know about the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve (PSNR) is that it’s big. Seriously big. Over 8,000 square miles big.

Pacaya Samiria National Reserve: www.peru.travel/en/attractions/pacaya-samiria-national-reserve A JOURNEY IN For more information please contact [email protected]

The second thing you need to know about Rivers come together to form the Amazon a sustainable source of revenue. One great taricayas, caimanes and monkeys, as well as the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve is that it River. The majority of its territory is example is the program currently in place to a massive variety of birds, mammals and fish. CHAPTER ONE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM contains some of the richest biodiversity on the floodable jungle, with various islands and conserve the Taricaya river turtles. There are various lodgings within the planet. As a part of the Amazon rainforest, it is lagoons (cochas). It is one of Peru’s 76 natural Tourism within Pacaya-Samiria is highly reserve and the surrounding areas that offer home to 527 bird species, over 100 mammal protected areas. regulated, and in order to visit, you must everything from basic amenities to exclusive species, 69 species of reptiles, 58 species of About 24,000 people live within the be in the company of a guide or travel services. A visit to the Pacaya-Samiria amphibians and 269 species of fish. boundaries of Pacaya-Samiria, comprising operator who is registered with the Peruvian National Reserve is not easily forgotten. LORETO This includes several endangered species, 92 communities. Most of the reserve’s government. Fortunately, there are plenty There simply are not many other places in such as the charapa turtle, the spider monkey, inhabitants make their living by fishing or of those, and ample opportunity for you to the world where nature remains virtually giant river otter and red macaw. The reserve farming, though today many are involved explore this remarkable area in the heart untouched, and blooms so bountifully. is located in northeast Peru, in the Ucamara in conservation projects that have been of the Amazon. Sailing along the rivers, you

16 depression, where the Ucayali and Marañón designed to provide the communities with can see manatees, pink dolphins, tortugas, 17 (Photo: Benjamin Webb, Marañón Waterkeeper Collection) Canyoneering in Muro Poso Canyon, a 1000-foot waterfall which plummets into the Marañón Birding Paradise CAJAMARCA/AMAZONAS CHAPTER TWO A JOURNEY IN CAJAMARCA/AMAZONAS SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

The Cajamarca region sits in northern Peru, and also shares a northern border with on the border with Ecuador. Its topography Ecuador. Amazonas has a diverse landscape ranges from Andean mountain peaks over of mountains and steep river gorges, 8,000 feet tall, to the Amazon rainforest. It including the Maranon Valley. It is also the covers almost 13,000 square miles. home of Kuelap, a massive Chachapoyas citadel containing over 400 stone structures. Just east of Cajamarca is the Amazonas

18 region, which is similar in size to Cajamarca, 19 CHAPTER TWO CAJAMARCA/AMAZONAS 21

Shooting the rapids on the Marañón (Photo: Benjamin Webb, Marañón Waterkeeper Collection) Waterfalls and Pools near Marañón Libre Conservation Area (Photo: Jessica Halter, Marañón Waterkeeper Collection)

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h on the biodiversity of levels the highest of isolated unusual location, its to planet. Thanks and the Amazon Mountains the Andes between an enormous supports the Marañón rainforest, This has allowed unique ecosystems. number of interaction without evolve to many species high extremely which leads to areas, with other endemism in the valley. of levels survive. to on the Marañón rely species These the Marañón lists International Birdlife valley as urgently in need of protection; that live species the bird 10 of at least critically of in IUCN categories are there or vulnerable. endangered endangered, being discovered regularly are species New overall that shown have and scientists has been in the Marañón diversity species under-estimated. significantly Valley. Marañón the in well not is all But, has Amazon in the Peruvian Oil extraction There the river. oil spills in occasional led to mining operations many small-scale are that leach the Andes throughout scattered way their find which tributaries into pollution P

Protecting The River That Feeds The Amazon The River That Feeds Protecting River thing, living the Amazon any other Like of And the primary source needs feeding. River. is the Marañón nutrition the Amazon’s the both , which runs through The Marañón one of is regions, and Amazonas Cajamarca the to tributaries flowing free major last the the Andes between link It is a vital Amazon. lowlands. and the Amazonian Mountains runs the Marañón at high water year Each the from down flowing sediment with brown in the The sediment is deposited mountains. the Amazon feeding essentially rainforest, that the ecosystems with soil and nutrients survive. need to the people, thousands of of hundreds For Marañón is home. A significant population production, food fishing, for river the on relies the by who live Groups and water. transport and towns include peasant farmers, river villages; many of these people identify as lead a largely and still Awajún indigenous life. of way traditional has Valley the Marañón surprisingly, Not some has area The well. as wildlife, abundant

20 River Marañón A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Marañón Waterkeeper Collection) Sunrise over the riverside village of Mendán (Photo: Steve Pearlman,

“We believe the communities and species that rely on the Marañón River have a right to exist. We believe the Amazon is essential to life on earth as we know it,

and the source of this mighty )

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we bring support from all corners n ó ñ a r of the globe.” a M , r e u a b t h c – BENJAMIN WEBB, ü F ja n : A MARAÑON EXPERIENCES to ho (P n yo can he gh t View throu CHAPTER TWO A JOURNEY IN

to the Marañón River. However, the greatest existence, and it is likely that the livelihood bays, sounds and other water bodies around determined this was somewhere I could have threat to the Marañón, and by extension, the of native communities downstream will be the globe through grassroots action. The a positive impact,” says Webb. wildlife and people who depend upon it, is severely impacted. Marañón version of the organization was Webb fell in love with the Marañón Valley, CAJAMARCA/AMAZONAS SUSTAINABLE TOURISM a proposed series hydroelectric megadams. founded in 2015 by Bruno Monteferri and Standing in opposition to dam development is and figured that if people came to visit it, Benjamin Webb. The potential negative impact of these Marañón Waterkeeper, a non-governmental they would too. So in 2016, Webb and Luigi approximately twenty proposed dams is organization whose mission is to protect Webb was working as an environmental Marmanilo opened Marañón Adventures, significant. The headwaters of the river will and promote the Marañón River. Marañón engineer in his native Australia when he a tour company that takes guests down become a series of reservoirs and very few Waterkeeper declares itself to be “guardian, decided he needed a change of scenery. Upon the river—sometimes gently drifting, and stretches of free flowing river will remain. steward and voice of the Marañón river.” doing his research, he discovered, “there sometimes shooting through a cauldron of This could be catastrophic to the unique Marañón Waterkeeper is a member of the was just something about South America white water rapids. Along the way, guests ecosystems and extraordinarily high levels Waterkeeper Alliance, a global network of that called to me.” He soon learned about also visit indigenous communities, and get of endemism that the river supports. Many more than 275 Waterkeeper Organizations the Marañón, its importance to the Amazon a look at their traditional way of life and

22 riverside villages stand to be flooded out of dedicated to protecting to rivers, lakes, ecosystem and the threats it was facing. “I unique cultures. 23 Camote, Marañón Waterkeeper Collection) The children of Tupén playing in Waterfall Huaman (Photo: Waterkeeper Collection) Sharing stories around campfire (Photo: Jessica Halter, Marañón

WHAT IS A PRIVATE CONSERVATION AREA?

It should come as no surprise that many land owners are ardent conservationists. After all, who has a better understanding of, and appreciation for, a track of land than the person(s) who owns it?

In Peru, private land owners have the opportunity to see that their land can be used to preserve natural resources and promote biodiversity by turning it into a Private Conservation Area (PCA).

There are currently 134 PCAs in Peru, varying in size from a single acre, to over 175 square miles. Designating land to be a PCA requires making a minimum 10-year commitment, though some PCA commitments are made in perpetuity. But regardless of the length of the commitment, the owner never loses ownership of the land.

Private Conservation Areas are recognized by the Peruvian State, by the Ministry of the Environment. In this sense, the PCAs are an instrument that allows the direct involvement of individuals, families, communities, organizations, companies or any private entity that owns a property right, in the conservation of biological diversity.

For more information please visit Marañon Waterkeeper’s website: www.maranonwaterkeeper.org CHAPTER TWO A JOURNEY IN

Marmanilo, who is originally from Lima, Webb and Marmanilo encourage every was working as a safety kayaker in Cusco, participant on their trips to become a but now is thoroughly enchanted with the steward of the river; whether hosting a CAJAMARCA/AMAZONAS

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Marañón. “It’s non-stop work, and non-stop presentation about the Marañón in their fun,” he says. local community or completing fundraising for river protection initiatives. Through Marañón Adventures, tourism is helping to conservation efforts in the valley. Caring about the Marañón Valley is caring After covering running costs, a large portion about the Amazon rainforest, which is often of Marañón Adventures profits are used to referred to as “the lungs of the world.” As support the work of Marañón Waterkeeper, such, the work being done by a handful of river conservation projects and sustainable small business people–and their guests—in development in local communities. a remote part of northern Peru, is having global impact. 24 25 Abra

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While many national governments, including to more than 300 species of bird, including Peru’s, designate finite areas as Natural 23 that are considered globally threatened. Protected Areas (Peru has 76), private The area, which today spans 39 square miles, landowners can also declare their lands is owned and managed by the Association of off limits to development and destructive Andean Ecosystems (ECOAN), a 15-year-old N A practices. In this case, these are known as O C E NGO dedicated to conserving endangered CHAPTER TWO

: Private Conservation Areas (PCA), or Area o A JOURNEY IN t o species of flora and fauna and threatened h P Conservacion Privada (ACP) in Spanish. . r e many ecosystems. e d t s e These PCAs are often adjacent to Natural ll a m The Abra Patricia Reserve (formally known s ’s ld Protected Areas, thus extending the or e w as the Abra Patricia-Alto Nieva Private th du is reach of the areas being conserved. PCAs The pu CAJAMARCA/AMAZONAS

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Conservation Area) was established by allow individuals, families, communities, ECOAN in 2005 with support from the the area. It is also a refuge for the critically ECOAN has always recognized the importance organizations, companies or any private American Bird Conservancy. The site is endangered yellow-tailed wooly monkey, of including neighboring communities in its entity that owns a property, the opportunity identified by the Alliance for Zero Extinction and an important site for wintering migrants, work. This includes establishing native tree to participate in the conservation of as a priority site for the protection of the including Swainson’s thrush. nurseries and other reforestation initiatives biological diversity. There are currently 134 critically endangered ochre-fronted antpitta to help restore degraded lands. To date, PCAs in Peru. ECOAN and the American Bird Conservancy and the long-whiskered owlet. The reserve approximately one million trees and coffee have created another protected reserve One such PCA is Abra Patricia. Located in is a key stop along the northern Peru bird bushes have been planted in the Yungas near Abra Patricia, called Huembo, which the Yungas forest along the eastern slope of route, and one of the only places you can see forest, where nearly 60% of the trees had is renowned for its various hummingbird the Andes in northern Peru, Abra Patricia is the yellow-scarfed tanager and Lulu’s tody- been lost to illegal harvesting, and burning populations. 26 a bird watcher’s paradise. The area is home flycatcher, both of which are endemic to to make room for agriculture. 27 CHAPTER TWO CAJAMARCA/AMAZONAS 29

The Owlet Lodge. Photo: ECOAN their communities. Private conservation conservation Private their communities. that show Patricia Abra as such areas can the government beyond organizations natural conserving in role play a critical communities. local benefitting and resources, to achieve sustainable development at at development sustainable achieve to To learn more about Abra Patricia, please contact Gleny Yennifer Vera [email protected] (Asociación Ecosistemas Ecosistemas (Asociación [email protected] Vera Yennifer Gleny contact please Patricia, about Abra more learn To www.owletlodge.org/about-us/ Andinos (ECOAN)) less than ten hummingbird fountains for its its for fountains hummingbird ten than less visitors. winged 350 around which receive The lodges, hire to revenue use tourism per year, visitors communities, nearby from staff and train opportunity the with residents local providing

Tourism plays a role in conservation efforts, efforts, in conservation a role plays Tourism the infrastructure improving By as well. is ECOAN Patricia, Abra at Huembo and of number an increasing attract helping to birds see exotic to the region to ecotourists Bringing spatuletail. such as the marvelous economic new provides the area into visitors people—and helps local for opportunities back into be put to resources more put the reserve. to eco-lodges two operates ECOAN Today Owlet the area: to visitors accommodate in the Located and Huembo Lodge. Lodge is Lodge Owlet Patricia, Abra of heart cabins, comfortable three of comprised spacious rooms each with a small lobby, observe to windows and finishes wood with the scenery. reading also has a restaurant, The lodge tower. observation and 35-foot-tall room each trails, four are there On the grounds, visitors long, where a kilometer over the including birds, endemic observe can which is in danger owlet, long-whiskered extinction. of as a prime location is known Huembo Lodge stunning most the world’s one of viewing for spatuletail. marvelous the hummingbirds, with double rooms has four The lodge with single rooms two bathrooms, private private bathrooms and finallytwo single lodge The bathroom. with a shared rooms and no guests, its for also has a restaurant Constantine Auca is the President of ECOAN, a non- of ECOAN, President is the Auca Constantine in instrumental has been that organization profit Area Conservation Private Patricia the Abra conserving communities. and its surrounding

The elusive yellow-scarfed tanager. Photo: ECOAN The marvelous spatuletail. Photo: ECOAN

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 28 Photo: La Patarashca Tours

MYTHS OR TRUTHS Trees that walk and miracle crops SAN MARTIN A JOURNEY IN CHAPTER THREE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM SAN MARTIN

The San Martin region is located in northern The Rio Abiseo (a UNESCO World Cultural central Peru, mostly in the northern end and Natural Heritage Site) and Cordillera of the Peruvian Amazon. Its largest city Azul National Parks are sanctuaries for is Tarapoto, and its capital is Moyobamba. endangered species. The region is renowned for its bounty of

30 waterfalls, orchids and butterflies. 31 Cacao beans after fermentation. (Photo: La Patarashca Tours) Cacao Route

A Miracle in the Peruvian Jungle

Coca and cacao. Two crops can that can thrive the San Martin region is enjoying economic in the high jungles of the San Martin region of growth and social sustainability at levels Peru. Coca and cacao. The words themselves never before seen in Peru. This turnaround is even look alike, but there the similarity ends. often referred to as “The San Martin Miracle.”

Coca has been a part of cultural traditions in San Martin became Peru’s first cacao growing this part of Peru for centuries. Its leaves have region, and today is responsible for almost been used for healing, and as an offering of 40% of all nationwide cacao exports. As San gratitude to Mother Earth. Today, it is used Martin cacao began to receive international to mitigate altitude sickness. acclaim, it led to the development of a second

A JOURNEY IN industry for the region, tourism. In the 1970s, however, international organizations drug trafficking organizations In 2016, three cacao routes were introduced,

began to cultivate coca for use in cocaine as a way to tell the story of the San Martin CHAPTER THREE production. A United Nations report Miracle, and to continue to diversify the sources down the Huallaga River. Once there, you’ll of Chazuta, “Come Peruvian citizen, come try

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM documented the region’s economic and social of revenue coming into the local communities. learn about how the community is living in the Mishki Cacao chocolate made in Chazuta, struggles. These were dark days for San Martin. The three cacao routes are day trips that greater harmony with its natural environment San Martín… Oh so yummy!” Fast forward to the 1990’s. Coca bush eradication depart out of the city of Tarapoto. The Lamas without ignoring the need to adapt to modern This route, which is becoming increasingly is under way. Both the state and private industry Route will take you to cacao fields, chocolate times. You’ll also have the opportunity to SAN MARTIN popular with travelers, includes 14 introduce alternative development policies to the production plants and the village of Lamas. purchase a variety of cacao-based products, communities that share one characteristic; region, including the development of cooperatives Here you’ll get a window into village life, including cacao cream, chocolate cereal and here, cacao is a women’s issue. for four agricultural staples: coffee, palm oil, heart including local customs, clothing and even chocolate soap. of palm and cacao, the base ingredient in chocolate. the village’s own language. The women of Mishki started helping their The Chazuta Route begins with a song. The husbands, all farmers, harvest their cacao Fast forward to 2010, and, as a result of The Pucallpillo Route is distinctive because women of the Mishki Cacao Association will crop. In time they noticed they had better 32 the alternative development procedures, getting to the village requires a boat ride serenade you when you arrive at the village 33 The fermenting process. (Photo: La Patarashca Tours)

ELIA GARCIA DE REATEGUI

Not all the women of the village of Chazuta make ceramics or chocolate. Elia Garcia de Reategui makes culinary traditions come to life. For the past 26 years, Elia and her husband have run a restaurant that celebrates the cuisine of the Amazon.

Elia has received numerous awards and recognition for her work, including multiple recognitions from MISTURA, the Peru’s largest food festival. Elia works with female cooks of local Amazonian towns, encouraging the recovery of their generational wisdom, and urging them to participate in gastronomic trade shows to spotlight each town’s potential and traditions. (Photo: La Patarashca Tours) Fermented beans on their way to becoming cocoa. A JOURNEY IN

administrative skills than the men, so they CHAPTER THREE created the Mishki Cacao Association. SUSTAINABLE TOURISM The women of Chazuta have historically been associated with traditional ceramics, which they still produce today. Carrying on the tradition of female empowerment, the SAN MARTIN women of Mishki take care of every detail of the presentation and marketing of their for the cacao it gives them--and promise product, including the distinctive packaging happiness to those who consume it. and labeling. What’s more, in addition to the With the help of cacao—both the crop and welcoming song, they have composed songs the tourism routes--the San Martin Miracle and choreographies that thank the Earth 34 continues to flourish. 35 This could be your room for the night. Photo: La Patarashca Tours Tingana

E ) v U e R r E y P o n M e O R a P rr : iv o e ot s t Ph o T t. ( ingana by boa

The Tingana Ecological Reserve

Imagine floating down a tranquil river in ten square-miles in size. The entire area a dugout canoe. All around you are the consists of temporarily flooded natural forest, “Here the trees literally walk to protect sights and sounds of the Amazon rainforest. which is characterized by an abundant and their space.” Massive renaco trees spread their roots into predominant population of aguaje (Mauritia your path. The treetops are filled with friar, Flexuosa) and renaco (Ficus Sp) trees. This is –Cindy Reategui Garcia A JOURNEY IN pichico, black and omeco monkeys. Your a refuge for wild animals, mostly monkeys La Patarashca Tours guide points out a passing toucan. and birds, many of which are endangered

and/or vulnerable species. CHAPTER THREE Welcome to the Tingana Ecológica Reserve (Reserva Ecológica Tingana). You may have Among the fauna, you can expect to see

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM driven up from the city of Moyobamba for mammals like; river wolf, monkeys, pelejo, a day trip along the Rio Mayo, or perhaps achuni, anteater and others. You will also prepare delicious and varied typical dishes, Renacales del Alto Mayo). Their vision was you will be spending the night in one of encounter a great variety of plant species using local ingredients. During your stay, be to develop ecotourism as an activity that

the simple, yet comfortable thatched huts. such as ferns, vines, orchids, bromeliads, sure to try the exquisite tacacho with cecina, promotes conservation of natural resources, SAN MARTIN Either way, you will be coming into direct among others. Bird species include the the popular rice juane, chicken inchicapi and and a sustainable source of revenue for the contact with the beauty, spectacle and peace- tarahui, flauterillo, toucan, manacaraco, others, accompanied by its fruit drink. local community. inducing properties of nature. heron; and fish such as shirui, tilapia, The Tingana Ecological Reserve is the result To get to Tingana, make arrangements with mojarra, atinga and carachama. Tingana is community-run tourism of the work of seven local families. They The Tour Operator (reservations are a must), cooperative that provides an effective means An important element of any visit to Tingana gathered together to form ADECARAM and they will pick you up in Moyobamba.

36 of protecting a swath of forest approximately is savoring the food. Local townspeople (Asociación de Conservación Aguajales y 37 Wildlife of Photo: Heinz Plenge, Chaparri the dry forest LAMBAYEQUE/LA LIBERTAD CHAPTER FOUR A JOURNEY IN LAMBAYAQUE/LA LIBERTAD

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM The Peruvian region of La Libertad, which is region is the home of two notable ancient situated on the northwest coast, is the only civilizations, the Moche and the Chimu. region that boasts all three of Peru’s natural The Chimu were renowned farmers, textile regions: the coast, the highlands (Sierra) and workers and goldsmiths. The Incas ultimately rainforest. The region’s capital Trujillo is the conquered the Chimu, but it was a process second-most populated in all of Peru, and is that took over four decades. Today visitors strategically located where the Andes come can explore the area, and witness the Trujillo closest to the coast. Marinera Festival, which takes place every January and includes a national dance Just north of La Libertad, and also on the competition. coast is the region of Lambayque. The 38 39 CHAPTER FOUR LAMBAYAQUE/LA LIBERTAD 41

The spectacled bear is the only bear species native to South America. Don’t forget to look up. Photo: Heinz Plenge, Chaparri Photo: Heinz Plenge, Chaparri

guides and working with species recovery recovery with species and working guides entrance reserve is a There programs. fund which is used to each visitor for fee support the and also to activities some key the within schools and health posts local develop to projects Additionally community. such alternatives and implement sustainable and native production honey as organic being implemented. are production cotton opportunity provides also reserve The the selling of through enterprise free for visitors. to and foods souvenirs 140 about occupies which reserve, The at conservation for site is a key miles, square within lies The reserve level. an international many and supports region, the Tumbesian the of the dryforests endemic to species considered are that seven including region, the by extinction with threatened globally threatened include the critically IUCN. These has a wild which now guan white-winged than 200 individuals and less population of bear. the spectacled bears, Andean or bears, Spectacled (Tremarctos ornatus), are the only species As bears America. South to bear native of A Community of Conservation A Community Conservation 134 Private boasts Peru Today Areas (PCA), areas where a private land for an area aside set to agreed has owner protection. and biodiversity conservation the Peruvian by recognized PCAsThese are to adjacent often and are government, the thus extending Areas, Protected Natural being conserved. the areas of reach The first Private Conservation Area was the of in 2000, with the dedication created in the Lambayeque Chaparri PCA, located had been The area northern Peru. of region including threats, of a variety from suffering subsistence (primarily due to deforestation and poaching. loss habitat agriculture), established When the Chaparri PCA was Catalina Santa of community the local by those it helped neutralize de Chongoyape, now were resources Natural threats. the community of and members protected, had the opportunity to find more lucrative employment. of forms and reliable for employment generates The reserve These ways. in a number of people local ecotourism guards, park include jobs 40 Chaparri A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM (Photo: Heinz Plenge, Chaparri) White winged guan SUSTAINABILITY—A LEG 1 – Natural sustainability: this means conserving FOUR-LEGGED TABLE wildlife and its habitat

Heinz Plenge was instrumental in establishing LEG 2 – Cultural sustainability: this is about Peru’s first Private Conservation Area, the Chaparri maintaining the cultural heritage and traditions of Ecological Reserve. In 2000, it was Plenge who the community

initially convinced the members of the Santa LEG 3 – Social sustainability: this is about quality Catalina de Chongoyape indigenous (Campesino) of life for the people of the community, it means Community to set aside 36,000 hectares of their land having adequate housing, education for the children, to form the PCA. Plenge remains actively involved medical services and more with Chaparri today. LEG 4 – Economic sustainability: this means that the Here is how he describes sustainability in the reserve has to generate enough revenue to continue, reserve: “In Chaparri, sustainability is like a table this is where tourism (and the jobs and revenues it with four legs.” creates) comes in Heinz Plenge, Chaparri) Adult white winged guan with two chicks (Photo: Segura fox (Photo: Heinz Plenge)

Contact of Heinz - Juan Andres Plenge (Heinz’s son) [email protected] (Chaparri Ecological Reserve URL: www.chaparrilodge.com/

visiting the Spectacled Bear Rescue Center, CHAPTER FOUR lodge guests who are so inclined can check out the new herpitarium, which is home to A JOURNEY IN several local species of snakes. The lodge

Plenge, Chaparri) White-tailed deer. (Photo: Juan Andres also has a bar, restaurant & swimming pool. go, they’re considered mid-sized. They have natural habitat and learn more about these black fur, with distinctive beige markings on threatened animals. Other rescued animals

Chaparri has a system of trails that provide LAMBAYAQUE/LA LIBERTAD the face, which often resemble eyeglasses. can be seen at the center, including ocelot, visitors with walks from half a mile to five SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Thus spectacled bears. They’re omnivores, Andean condor, king vulture, military macaw miles in length. These trails pass through a but 95% of their diet is plant-based. and more. variety of habitats and provide excellent wildlife and bird watching opportunities. A Chaparri is the site of the Spectacled Bear The community has also opened and local guide is recommended. Rescue Center. Seven bears that have been operates the Chaparri Ecolodge. The lodge

confiscated from illegal captivity are currently provides a tranquil escape in a spectacular The Chaparri Ecolodge is 45 miles from the housed in large semi-wild enclosures that landscape of the foothills of the Andes with city and airport of Chiclayo, which receives provide the bears a stimulating natural excellent wildlife viewing opportunities, and flights daily from Lima. From the airport, you environment in which to live. Visitors is located close to the principal archeological can hire a private car which will take you to may visit some of these enclosures with sites (such as Tecume and Ventarron) and the lodge in 1 hour and 15 minutes, or take

42 a local guide and watch bears in their museums of Lambayeque. In addition to a public bus for a trip that takes 2 hours. 43 CHAPTER FOUR LAMBAYAQUE/LA LIBERTAD

The stark beauty of the dry forest. (Photo: PROMPERU) 45

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y d a h s

a e id v ro p s ee no are (there camping and board) a rent can cabins yet, so bring your tent along), but it this way. always wasn’t was deforestation advancing Rapidly when Armando Ventura the area threatening begin the to Tecapa Coperativa the formed area the 5 square-mile turning of process The group’s area. conservation a private into ranger formed in 2000. They began efforts logging of the illegal combat to brigades its received El Cañoncillo trees. the carob conservation private a as recognition official 170 were there the time, in 2004. At area tr ob Car Exploring the Dry Forest of El Cañoncillo the Dry Forest Exploring the area called ancient civilizations Five Private the Cañoncillo that is presently see to easy It’s home. Area Conservation dry forest of this track them all to what drew Peru. in northwest find placid you’ll Inside El Cañoncillo, hiking trails, and gentle verdant lagoons, wild of herds dunes, sand desert vast 100,000 and over medicinal plants horses, a over are trees these Some of trees. carob much as reach can and old, years thousand enjoy visitors Today diameter. in feet 15 as (you climbing, sandboarding hiking, trekking, 44 Cañoncillo A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM A dramatic landscape, shaped by the wind. . (Photo: PROMPERU)

)

U R E P M O R P : o t o h (P . t s e r o f ry d e h t in nd ou s f on ago ny l One of ma CHAPTER FOUR A JOURNEY IN

members of the cooperative, though today Archaeological Complex. The presence of

that number has dwindled significantly, and such massive mud walls in the midst of a LAMBAYAQUE/LA LIBERTAD El Cañoncillo increasingly relies on tourism topography that is primarily sand boggles SUSTAINABLE TOURISM revenues for survival. the mind. In 2001, the archeological complex was declared a National Cultural Heritage In addition to the natural treasures found in site by Peru’s National Institute of Culture. El Cañoncillo, visitors can explore cultural remnants from five ancient peoples: the To reach El Cañoncillo, you’ll most likely Moche, Chimú, Inca, Gallinazo and Cupisñique. begin your journey in the city of Trujillo. All five kingdoms held this land at some From there, it’s a two-hour drive in a private point in history. car, or you can take one of several busses from the city. Inside the forest, there is a mud citadel with

46 pre-Inca remains, known as El Cañoncillo 47 CHAPTER FIVE ANCASH

Photo: Christian Declercq, Kmcero 49 before becoming mountainous. The capital The capital mountainous. becoming before between in a valley rests Huaraz city of Cordillera ranges: mountain spectacular two to Negra and Cordillera the east, to Blanca the west.

ANCASH

Trekking theTrekking The region of Ancash seems to have a bit a bit have to seems Ancash of The region on Lima, it sits north of Just everything. of pristine it boasts where coast, the Pacific surf. turquoise and beaches, sand white has high plateaus, the region west, Moving Peruvian Switzerland

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 48 CHAPTER FIVE ANCASH

The Great Inca Trail south of Huanuco Pampa. (Photo: Rodrigo Cabrera) 51 of the park supports thriving ecosystems thriving ecosystems the park supports of is here Trekking brimming with life. that are breath-taking. short of nothing the The Qhapaq Ñan, which was Naturally, in Site Heritage World UNESCO a declared Peruvians. pride to great of 2004, is a source of Ministry Peru’s of Thus, under the auspices the and preserve develop to an effort Culture, ago. years five launched was Ñan Qhapaq The the archeological reached efforts When these in the Huanuco (located Pampa Huánuco of site center built administrative to huge a region), in the Road Inca on the Great aid travelers it considered the government 15th century,

Dancers from the Ally Puricheg greet trekkers to is Alive and Well Culture Incan Where is a Trail, Inca The Qhapaq Ñan, or Great and 25,000 miles, covering roads of network the into gleaning insight to route the shortest the ancient Incas. of ways the most which connects route, This ancient trade through passes in the Andes, towns important Andean centuries-old scenery, spectacular communities. and tiny agricultural villages the Ancash through way its As it makes the through the Qhapaq Ñan passes region, home National Park, Huascaran spectacular and range mountain Blanca the Cordillera of at peak in Peru the highest Huascaran, Nevado landscape The unspoiled natural 22,205 feet. Huanuco Pampa. (Photo: Christian Declercq, Kmcero) 50 The Great Inca Trail A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Traditional homes along the Great Inca Trail. (Photo: Christian Declercq, Kmcero)

A MONUMENTAL ROAD

“Some roads are built for utility, others for efficiency and very few as monuments. A monumental road transcends utility and efficiency, and demonstrates power and influence. A monument serves as a pilgrimage destination, but in the case of the Great Inca Road, the monument is the journey.”

– Nick Stanziano Founder SA Expeditions

important to ensure members of the local communities were involved.

Local involvement in the conservation

(Photo: Christian Declercq, Kmcero) after two months of walking from Ecuador to the region of Ancash. The Great Inca Trail expeditions team in 2017 led by Nick Stanziano and preservation of the site would help underscore its social and cultural significance.

This sort of integrated approach to development A JOURNEY IN had proved effective in other projects of Qhapaq Ñan. It has three components: Research, Conservation and Cultural Partner, the last established to promote community focuses on strengthening the local population’s participation in the conservation, protection

capacities for participation in conservation, CHAPTER FIVE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM and management of Huánuco Pampa. preservation and sustainable operations. Ally Puricheg is made up of sixteen Thus, as a result of the workshops and talks community members from the Aguamiro held with community members of Aguamiro Campesino Community that is adjacent to (where the Huánuco Pampa is located), Huánuco Pampa. This group of Quechua ANCASH it was decided to form an association linked to speakers has ancestral knowledge, which the archaeological zone for its promotion and they share with visitors. They work on management. And so Ally Puricheg came to be. preservation efforts at the site, and allow Ally Puricheg, which is the Quechua term for visitors to see Huánuco Pampa through the eyes of the descendants of the people who 52 “walking well,” is a non-profit organization 53 (Photo: Christian Declercq, Kmcero) The base of the rock wall of the Great Inca Trail still visible in route. The principal entrance into Huanuco Pampa. (Photo: Christian Declercq, Kmcero) A JOURNEY IN

once lived there. Visitors are also treated to Cordova Frias explains, “It’s important that traditional musical and dance performances, the local villages have a sense of pride in CHAPTER FIVE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM and a sacred ceremonial ritual known as the past, so they don’t lose these ancient an “ushno,” or offering. In this ceremony, a traditions and customs. What these villagers village elder gives thanks to the mountains, know is valuable, and people are willing to the sun and to life for the richness they have travel many miles to hear what they have in their lives. to say.” ANCASH

This sort of community involvement not While any trek along the Qhapaq Ñan and only enriches the visitor experience, it visit to Huánuco Pampa is fascinating, the brings forth a sense of cultural pride among active involvement of the members of Ally the members of the local communities. The Puricheg enrich the experience, truly bring

54 Cultural Partner of Huánuco Pampa, Carla it to life. 55 Llama trekking through Huascaran National Park. (Photo: Llamatrek) Llamatrek (Photo: Llamatrek) A traveler makes a new friend. A JOURNEY IN

People have been making this journey for and their project, Llamatrek. It’s a high- with local ingredients and share a meal with Certainly one of the highlights of the CHAPTER FIVE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 3,000 years. Before the Spanish, before the altitude adventure that passes through the villagers. You’ll also be treated to some Llamatrek is passing through the Huascaran Incas, it was the Chavin people who would Huascaran National Park and its majestic traditional music and dances. National Park, famous for the exceptional make this 3-day trek from Olleros to a sacred Cordillera Blanca mountain range, and ends beauty of the Cordillera Blanca, the intense Llamatrek was created 20 years ago with temple, Chavin de Huantar. To assist them on at a fascinating archeological treasure. turquoise lagoons formed by glaciers, and its the purpose of bringing back the llama as their journey, the Chavin would use vicuñas large variety of Andean flora and fauna. The Along the way, you’ll pass through the the primary pack animal for this and other ANCASH and llamas as pack animals. park is home to some of the highest tropical indigenous Andean villages of Canrey similar treks. Llamas are endemic to this area peaks in the world, including Huascaran, the Today, visitors to the Ancash region can Chico, Chichucancha and Nunupata, where of the Andes, but over the years, they have tallest mountain in Peru, standing 22,205 make the same trek, and use the same pack the residents will warmly receive you, and been replaced by horses, donkeys and mules, feet above sea level. animals, thanks to the efforts of Chavín share some insight into their way of life. which are now causing harm to the area by

56 Association of Mountain Assistants (ASAM), You’ll visit farms, cook traditional recipes overgrazing. Huascaran National Park was created in 57 The Cordillera Blanca range. (Photo: Llamatrek)

“We involve our young people, we encourage them so that they participate in entrepreneurship, we want them to gradually become familiar with the activities, and then they can be accredited and they can also

) offer their services to tourists ” k e r t a

m a l JORGE MARTEL ALVARADO L

: o t o h P ( Member, Chavín Association Of . s e d n Mountain Assistants (Asam) A e h t f o ls a im LLAMATREK PARTNER n a k ac p al on iti rad e t re th Llamas we A JOURNEY IN

1975, and declared a Biosphere Reserve by attracting mountain climbers from all over the Llamatrek’s final destination is equally Museum, which holds artifacts that date back CHAPTER FIVE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM UNESCO in 1977. In 1985, it was included on world who come in search of their summits powerful. Chavín de Huantar is an to 1,200 BC. the UNESCO Natural Heritage of Humanity list. and trekking paths. The park boasts close to archeological site that was once a temple of The Llamatrek is helping to promote 25 walking trails and 125 climbing paths, with the Chavin people, one of the oldest cultures The park stretches over 1,300 square miles, sustainability in the region by using tourism different levels of difficulty. from South America. Chavin culture was and holds 712 glaciers and 434 lagoons formed to provide economic opportunity for the ruled by priests, and in the temple, which by glaciers. It also boasts powerful rivers The unspoiled natural landscape is dramatic people who live in the villages, and by ANCASH is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can thanks to snowy peaks that feed the the Santa, and the ecosystems in the park are thriving. helping to preserve cultural traditions that wander through the centuries and learn Marañón and Pativilca river basins. In addition Visiting and exploring Huascaran National have been around for thousands of years, about its many mysteries. Be sure to bring to Huascaran, the park is home to numerous Park is a journey through the history of and one of those traditions is, of course, a flashlight to explore the underground other peaks measuring between 5,000 - 6,768 Peru that offers visitors the opportunity walking with llamas. labyrinths. Nearby is the Chavin de Huantar 58 meters (16,404 - 22,205 feet) above sea level, to experience powerful landscapes. The 59 Nourishment for Photo: Nazca Ecológica Body and Soul LIMA/ICA A JOURNEY IN CHAPTER SIX SUSTAINABLE TOURISM As the capital city of Peru, Lima constitutes The region of Ica, just south of Lima on its own region. And rightfully so, the city the Pacific coast, is known for its dramatic bristles with energy and activity. Inviting coastline, and vast desert area. The region neighborhoods like Miraflores and Barranco attracts three types of travelers: adventure LIMA/ICA offer a wide variety of shops, hotels, bars and seekers, who sandboard, paraglide and restaurants. Speaking of restaurants, Lima is kitesurf along the coast; nature lovers, who becoming increasingly known for its exciting take delight in the region’s protected areas; and innovative restaurant scene. It’s one of and archeology buffs and others drawn to the primary reasons Peru is often considered the ancient mystery of the Nasca Lines.

60 the Gastronomic Capital of The Americas. 61 View over Viñac Refugio. (photo: Viñac Refugio) a mountain lodge where anybody could come for a respite from urban madness. Viñak Refugio It was important to Enrique that his new lodge embrace the tenets of sustainability, and be a force for positive change in Viñac and the other surrounding villages. First, he wanted to make sure the lodge would be staffed, as much as possible, with local villagers. This meant An Escape from the City, creating jobs that ranged from housekeeping, to office management, to food preparation, a Blessing for a Village grounds management and more. Since the

It’s a story that could have ended tragically, but local people had never held positions like this ultimately did not. Enrique Umbert Sandoval (or even stayed in a hotel for that matter), this was driving through the Andes mountains required a significant investment in education.

south of Lima when he accidentally struck a At first, all the positions were filled by men, Marleni Chullunqu boy who was riding a bicycle. but over time, attitudes among the villagers Marleni is testament to what can be achieved through hard work and Enrique loaded the injured boy into his car, began to evolve, and women were increasingly perseverance. She started working in Refugio Viñak in 2003 in the cleaning and and drove the boy to his home in the village being hired at the lodge. Today Viñac Refugio care department. Today she is the Governor of the Viñac Lodge, overseeing every of Viñak. The boy needed medical attention, so de Adventura’s Manager is a woman, as is as aspect of its daily operations. And she managed to achieve this while raising Enrique drove the boy and his parents drove its Governanta (the person in charge of day- three children, all of whom are adults now, living and working in Lima to a hospital in Lima. to-day operations), Marlene Chulluncuy), who has worked at the lodge for 15 years, starting In time, the boy made a full recovery, and as a housekeeper. Today the Viñac Refugio de Aventura is or even mountain biking. Guests can fish in a during that time, Enrique and the family open to anyone desiring a quiet, mountain nearby lake, and enjoy picnics and barbeques formed a friendship. When the family invited Viñac Refugio de Adventura supported escape from the turmoil of the modern world. on the lodge’s grounds. Many guests take Enrique to spend a week at their home in additional educational efforts in the village, The lodge is a perfect setting for travelers time to explore the village of Viñac, which Viñac, he readily accepted. as well. The lodge funded improvements in the village school, and imported teachers interested in wellness and serenity. It is an is adjacent to the lodge. Oftentimes, guests During his stay, Enrique fell in love with and specialists for both youth and adult ideal spot for meditation and spending more are so moved by these visits, they make the small Andean village and its people education. The villagers were taught advances time in nature. At an altitude of over 10,000 donations to Yanapana to further support its A JOURNEY IN (population approximately 400). He decided in agriculture (the primary means of support feet, the vistas are spectacular. work in the village. to build a home there. His simple house in for most families), as well as fundamental The lodge--which is operated by Yanapana Reaching Viñac Refugio de Aventura is not the picturesque mountains provided Enrique environmental issues (proper trash disposal, (www.yanapana.org), the non-profit arm of easy. Though it’s only 175 miles south of Lima, with a welcome respite from the hustle and etc.), and legal issues like the consequences Mountain Lodges of Peru--has a total of 11 the trip can take up to five hours, the last two bustle of Lima. and prevention of domestic abuse. CHAPTER SIX

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM modern, comfortable rooms. The gourmet of which are on slow-going, unpaved roads.

Enrique invited friends to come join him in The lodge helped fund the building of a medical dishes served in the lodge’s panoramic But the destination is worth the journey. his high-altitude retreat. They, too, felt the restaurant are wholesome, traditional center for Viñac, and imported doctors from “It’s a pretty nice place to go and get rid healing power of the solace and tranquility Peruvian recipes lovingly prepared with fresh, Lima to practice there. of civilization,” says Alejandro Gordillo, a of the mountains, and soon began asking if local ingredients. Manager at Mountain Lodges of Peru. LIMA/ICA they could rent the house. As the founder of It was important to Umbert that Viñac Refugio If you like a little more activity in your Mountain Lodges of Peru, Enrique recognized de Aventura be a responsible steward of the As for that boy on the bicycle, he not only adventure, Viñac Refugio de Aventura can a business opportunity when he saw one, land and its surrounding environment. The made a full recovery, he went to school in accommodate that, as well. The grounds of and soon made additions and upgrades to his lodge has an aggressive recycling program, Lima, then returned to Viñac, where he went the lodge features an abundance of trails home, and in 2002, converted it into Viñak has repurposed waste water for irrigation, to work for the Viñac Refugio de Aventura. and cultivates and plants thousands of trees. which are perfect for hiking, horseback riding 62 Refugio de Aventura (Viñac Adventure Refuge), And so the wheel turns. 63 Charcuteria de Rio Baja. (photo: AmaZ, Pedro Schiaffino) Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino; Bringing a Taste Of The Amazon To Lima

For more information please visit www.despensamazonica.org

“Every time I travel through the Peruvian jungle I find new ingredients and new ways of approaching the kitchen through the wisdom that I discover in Italy, before returning to Lima in 2002 with introduce Lima diners to traditional Amazon everywhere in the Amazon. We have much to the intent of opening a restaurant of his own. ingredients and recipes, but also to increase awareness of Amazonian culture and heritage. learn from the people who live in the largest After surveying the Lima restaurant scene tropical forest in the world. Approaching them at the time, Schiaffino noticed something. Schiaffino continued to shuttle between Lima and investigating the fruits of their rivers, soils, There was no shortage of restaurants offering and the Amazon. “When I hear from friends French, Italian and other classic European in Iquitos or villagers along the river about trees, plants ... is the work we do at Despensa cuisines, however, there were only a handful an unfamiliar dish or ingredient, I would

A JOURNEY IN Amazónica.“ of Peruvian restaurants offering Peruvian start asking questions,” he recently told 50 – PEDRO MIGUEL SCHIAFFINO, CHEF & food. And there were absolutely no well Best. “Then I’ll go to the Amazon, sometimes known restaurants serving cuisine from the heading off on a speedboat for eight hours EXPLORER OF THE PERUVIAN AMAZON Amazon region. or more in search of ingredients to taste and experiment. It’s amazing how the Amazon CHAPTER SIX

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Schiaffino sensed an opportunity, and in 2003 constantly offers up tastes and flavors I’ve took a trip that would change his life. He The city of Lima is today recognized as traditions and culture from another part never imagined before.” visited Iquitos, a city in the region of Loreto one of the world’s premiere gastronomic of Peru--the Amazon rainforest. They are that is often referred to as the gateway to The importance of supporting the farms and destinations. The Peruvian capital’s restaurant Malabar and amaZ, and they are the work of the Amazon. While there, he discovered the communities he bought from in the Amazon scene offers a wide array of international Chef Pedro Schiaffino, a.k.a., The Jungle Chef. LIMA/ICA richness of the Amazon in terms of both the quickly became apparent to Schiaffino. He cuisines, traditional Peruvian cuisine, and Schiaffino, a Lima native, received his biodiversity of life, and the deep cultural needed to ensure a reliable supply chain often a fusion of both. While Andean culinary culinary education from New York’s Culinary heritage of the indigenous communities. for ingredients, as well as contribute to traditions are well represented among Lima’s Institute of America (CIA), the Italian Culinary the overall wellbeing of the communities. renowned restaurants, only two offer diners Upon returning to Lima, Schiaffino opened Institute for Foreigners (ICIF) and Castiglioni Malabar had already started to invest in local the chance to become immersed in the Malabar in 2004. His intent was to not only 64 d’Asti, Piemonte. He spent five years working projects, but in order to attract additional 65 CHAPTER SIX LIMA/ICA

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a P also the company’s Consulting Chef.) Consulting also the company’s Back in Lima, Schiaffinotook his affair love further when he a step with the Amazon 2011. in amaZ restaurant second his opened on exclusively almost relies The menu here 90 using over the area, from ingredients 20 over from sourced products different here The culinary experience communities. use Chefs as well. ingredients, beyond goes tools methods, the same cooking many of been have communities the and utensils is a culinary It truly centuries. for employing life. to brought tradition Chef, Jungle The Schiaffino, Miguel Pedro For in the but course, is important, of the food a larger, to a gateway merely it’s big picture, exploration. cultural rewarding more have an additional value that is not being being that is not value an additional have tourists. to appeal potential leveraged--their out seeking visitors of trend the notes Schiaffino travel. when they experiences authentic real, ingredients their where know to want Travelers and farmed were they how from, coming are he maintains. their plates, to got they how love that visitors communities showing By villagers--take they--the what appreciate and communities local occurrences, everyday for that their traditions. the value will rediscover pride in where a sense of It also instills all about. are what they and from come they Given all this, Schiaffino believes the rural tremendous have communities Amazon He is helping bring this potential. tourism Expeditions, Aqua fruition through vision to Schiaffino company cruising River Amazon an is Schiaffino surprisingly, (Not in. partner a is two projects to help advance sustainability sustainability advance help to projects two is working project paiche Its in the Amazon. with local fishermen to revive the paiche grow can that fish water fresh (a population up to 400 pounds) to sustainable levels. bring to is also working The organization its through empowerment women’s about is Amazonica Despensa project. Negro Tucupí this traditional for a market create helping to from and cooked that is fermented sauce local plant, thus allowing cassava the brava additional create to opportunity the women their households. for income local is also showing Amazonica Despensa farming that their traditional communities traditions cultural cuisine and other methods, donors, Schiaffino formed an NGO, Despensa Despensa NGO, an formed Schiaffino donors, The Amazon,” of “Pantry Literally, Amazonica. with local working began the organization health help fund and operate to communities projects. and education with works Amazonica Despensa Today region Amazon the communities various things, among other Providing, Loreto. of methods farming in sustainable training to looking is and yields increase help which children for food supply healthy eventually also The organization schools. in the local expand communities help these to works their chain of the value and improve markets products. agricultural in involved is presently Amazonica Despensa

Pedro with Despensa Amazónica. (photo: Despensa Amazónica, Pedro Schiaffino) A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 66 CHAPTER SIX LIMA/ICA 69

San Fernando Bay. (Photo: Alonso Orellana, SERNANP) Seabirds find no shortage of prey in San Fernando Bay.

(Photo: Nazca Ecológica)

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T Nasca, Ica and Lima will be able to process process and Lima will be able to Ica Nasca, the reserve. to admission your if unexpected, dramatic, the more One of at the San opportunities watching wildlife swooping is the massive, Bay Fernando the Andean condors Yes, Andean condor. peaks the in found commonly more are but Mountains, the Andes of and valleys on seal feeding began they the years, over placentas (during mating season), and have since. the bay ever to been coming in the San Fernando stay to want Should you a day than just more for National Reserve a (or can at room rent a you least trip, bed) Bay. near the San Fernando at a hostel a Ecológica, Nazca to belongs The hostel protecting to dedicated company private bay, the of waters the and preserving partnering with local, primarily through to able is company The fishermen. artisanal The San Fernando Bay is home to sea lions, sea lions, Bay is home to The San Fernando whales, foxes, grey turtles, otters, seals, Andean and even Humboldt penguins a small is just course, This, of condors. sampling of the fauna found in this Pacific and Ica, of in the region located bay coast earned this area why the reasons one of just in 2011. status area protected a small part of Bay is just The San Fernando the San Fernando National Reserve (SFNR), miles. 600 square which spans over the southern enter currently can Visitors which is the reserve, of areas and eastern there, Once Nasca. north of 40 miles located such activities in various engage can you and speaking with artisanal as observing kayaking, trekking, sandboarding, fishermen, Of and more. camping watching, whale is spectacular. watching the wildlife course, Marcona, of cities the in based operators Tour The Treasures of San Fernando of San The Treasures

Reserve National National San Fernando A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM An Andean condor on the hunt. (Photo:An Andean condor on the hunt. Nazca Ecológica)

“Visiting the San Fernando National Reserve is an extraordinary experience of contact with nature and wildlife and, at the same time, represents an opportunity to contribute to its conservation. Come visit us!”

– Hernán & Cary Martorelli Owners, Nazca Ecológica

operate a hostel within the SFNR, because it The coastline of the SFNR is brimming with was established years before the area was islands, islets and cliffs. These environments declared a reserve. are an ideal habitat for species such as sea lions, sea otters, the Humboldt penguin, In addition to the bay, the San Fernando guano birds and other seabirds such as National Reserve is comprised of numerous chuita, tendrils and more. ecosystems: dry and riverine forests, coastal hills and Tillandsias (evergreen flowers); Twenty species of macroalgae, one species of Coastal Desert, Estuaries, Islands, Islets, sponge, 21 species of polychaetes, 32 species cliffs as well as the Bentonic (bottom of the of mollusks and 5 species of crustaceans ocean) and Palagic (complete ocean water have been recorded in the Benthic marine column) Marine Ecosystems. Each of these ecosystem. The algae here helps support ecosystems provides the opportunity for numerous species of fish, including fine exploration and inspiration. seafood like chanque, octopus and limpet,

Crags and coves in San Fernando Bay. (Photo: Nazca Ecológica) as well as common seafood such as choro, The coastal hills are one of the most important scallops and snails. ecosystems of the SFNR; with vegetation covering more than 9,000 hectares. The The SFNR houses the mouths of the Ica and A JOURNEY IN vegetation grows on the gentle slopes facing Grande rivers, forming estuaries of almost San Fernando Bay in the southern area of the 100 hectares. This ecosystem is a mixture reserve. The coastal hills are constituted as of fresh and salt water that forms a wetland islands or extensive vegetation communities with halophilic plants and is a habitat for

separated from each other by varying resident and migratory birds. CHAPTER SIX SUSTAINABLE TOURISM distances from the hyper-arid desert. Located in the channels of the Ica and Grande The coastal desert is by far the dominant rivers, with an estimated coverage of more ecosystem in the reserve. It can be rocky than 200 hectares, the reserve’s dry forest

or sandy and dotted with varying types of is important because of the richness of flora LIMA/ICA mounds. The desert is home to a variety of and fauna species that it hosts, including 58 bird species, including the owl of the sands species of birds. and the miners. It is also a transit area and The reserve’s riverine forest is located habitat for species such as the Peruvian around the Ica, Grande and Nasca rivers, guanaco and Andean fox. 70 with an estimated coverage of 742 hectares. 71 CHAPTER SIX LIMA/ICA

Hundreds of sea lions can be seen playing and napping on the beach. (Photo: SERNANP) 73

Wild flowers in the San Fernando reserve. The Inca Tern bird breeds on the coast of Peru. (Photo: SERNANP) (Photo: Nazca Ecológica) the San Fernando National Reserve, Peru’s Peru’s National Reserve, the San Fernando has been SERNANP, agency, national parks the allow that strategies implementing and the diversity biological of conservation marine and landscape use of sustainable the implementation through resources Promotion and Conservation Tourism of able be should visitors As such, Agreements. scenery the spectacular enjoy responsibly to many for the reserve of wildlife and diverse come. to years It boasts a high diversity of flora, as well as as well as flora, of diversity high a boasts It (81). species bird in found be also can life marine of variety A the Southern including forest, the riverine and humpback whale the whale, right four been also have There dolphins stand. the here: observed marine reptiles of species the giant turtle, the green turtle, hawksbill turtle. ridley and the olive sea turtle ecosystems these conserve to In order of marine biodiversity and their coastal

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 72 Andean communities Photo: Lima Tours open their doors

CUSCO A JOURNEY IN

The city of Cusco literally has layers of quarter of San Blas, the Convent of Santo CHAPTER SEVEN

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM culture. At its base is a Killke layer, topped Domingo, built on top of the Temple of the by Incan, topped by Spanish. The aspects of Sun or Korikancha and the palaces of the all these different cultures, often literally Inca and his court are part of a long list of stacked on top of each other, make Cusco a archaeological wonders. rich and fascinating destination. Of course, the ancient Incan capital is a While Cusco is the jumping off point for most thoroughly modern city, swirling with CUSCO visits to Machu Picchu, city itself boasts restaurants, bars, music and colorful nightlife. numerous attractions to enchant visitors. A wide variety of hotels can accommodate These include the main square, which virtually any budget or lifestyle. the Incas called Huacaypata, the artisans 74 75

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a r r e t e n la P : o t o h P ( t. n ra u ta es R a rw A Restaurant That Serves Its Community Pa t l a ea y m orth m-w An Instagra Bruce Poon Tip believes tourism can be a Planeterra has helped launch five small phenomenal force for good. However, the businesses that cater to travelers in Peru: the G Adventures founder also believes that a Ccaccaccollo Women’s Weaving Co-op, the travel company, like his own, should not Parque de las Papas (Potato Park), the Lares

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u delivering a high-quality travel experience the Parwa Community Restaurant. t n

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To bridge the gap between providing for success, the Parwa Community Restaurant a r r e travelers and caring for the destinations they t is an especially shining example of the e n a l visit, Tip founded the Planeterra Foundation Planeterra model in action. The restaurant, P : A JOURNEY IN o t o in 2003. which is located in Peru’s Sacred Valley, and h (P . t n owned by the community, was breaking even ra u In a nutshell, Planeterra is a non-profit ta es within its first three months of operation, R a w organization that helps develop small, for- ar t P s a and made a profit in its first year. und profit businesses in communities in or near The gro CHAPTER SEVEN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM tourism destinations. Doing this allows local Restaurant employees have monthly salaries, For more information please visit www.planeterra.org communities to benefit from tourism when health insurance, pension funds, and other they otherwise might not have. labor benefits. Over 25 micro entrepreneurs Today, Parwa provides meals for 16,000 G restaurant in a water project, a community received technical assistance and funds to Once the businesses have been established, Adventure travelers per year. Diners sit at garden—even a computer lab. establish new businesses to supply the G Adventures brings traffic (travelers) to long tables, and are served by community restaurant, or sell their goods to Huchuy Planeterra President Jamie Sweeting CUSCO support them. The travelers get a unique members in traditional dress. The meal Qosco travelers. notes that the restaurant not only benefits and authentic experience, and the businesses consists of local, organic ingredients and the community, but provides a unique enjoy the financial benefits of having tourism Last year, when Bruce Poon Tip visited the often includes salad, quinoa, some form opportunity for travelers, as well. “Travelers in their communities. It’s a win-win that can restaurant with a group of journalists, the of protein and, of course, potatoes. The get the chance to meet people on their own 76 continue indefinitely. community members actually presented him community has invested profits from the 77 with a donation back to Planeterra. CHAPTER SEVEN CUSCO

Parwa Restaurant awaits the lunch crowd. (Photo: Planeterra / G Adventures) 79

JAMIE SWEETING SWEETING JAMIE – turf,” Sweeting says. “It’s not a hand-out, but but a hand-out, not “It’s says. Sweeting turf,” equals.” between exchange a business Sweeting cites a specific example of the has had on individual the restaurant impact the of one met “I members. community “and she told says, Sweeting there,” servers she was the restaurant, me that prior to one of the few people who would benefit the to down hike would She tourism. from on sell handicrafts to and try highway, a while, in and once the road, the side of something. and buy stop would somebody the house pretty leave to have She would early in the morning, and her older kids kids. the younger look after to have would the school gates outside be waiting They’d home in get the school opened. She’d before started have and her kids would the evening, meal already. the evening them her kids, take for cook to she gets “Now then go and do some chores, school, go to back she’s and in her community, work to been a school. It’s pick the kids up from to She’s her family. for experience life-changing that an enterprise be part of to proud really is a co-owner the community, as a part of she, and a whole community, empowered It’s of. and individual, an as her empowered it’s her family. of and trajectory the life changed is all about.” And that is what it really Buen provecho. PRESIDENT, PLANETERRA FOUNDATION PLANETERRA PRESIDENT, “By working together with all the other stakeholders, stakeholders, the other with all together “By working in role and positive pivotal a play can business travel.” responsible and stewardship destination

Visitors share in cultural traditions. (Photo: The traditional Andean wool source. (Photo: Planeterra / G Adventures) Planeterra / G Adventures)

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 78 A Taste of Village Life

An Ambitious Plan For a Lofty City

) s e High in the Andes, only 100 miles north of consolidating a sustainable tourism r u t n e of Cusco, sits the town of Ollantaytambo product, where the visitor may have unique v d A G : (population 11,000+). For decades, the town experiences based on living cultures and to o Ph . ( has served as a launching point for the a well conserved natural environment, bo am yt nta Olla thousands of people visiting of Machu Picchu generating an improvement in the quality of Terraces in each year. Though only 20 miles away from life and identity of the populations involved.” the famed Incan lost city, Ollantaytambo A JOURNEY IN There are scores of organizations has not been able to benefit from all the participating in Plan Wallata: NGOs, tourism traffic that passes through it. Very government departments, schools, industry few visitors spend any time—or money—in organizations, tour operators, members of their days with an allkin pachuacuy, have a It is Plan Wallata that is allowing this the town. the community and more. chaskiq in the afternoon, and wrap up an Quechua-speaking village to be able to offer CHAPTER SEVEN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM To harness the power of tourism to help amazing day with a sumaq puñuna. visitors an authentic taste of Andean village The plan began in 2016, and will run through in the development and prosperity of life, and keep its ancient customs alive. 2022, with the aim of making Ollantaytambo If your Quechua is a little rusty…you could Ollantaytambo, numerous stakeholders, a “Living Inca Town” by promoting the start your day with a visit to a women’s While you’re in Huilloc, you can also work under the leadership of Turismo Cuida preservation and conservation of its cultural weaving facility where you can learn the land using centuries-old tools, cook (Tourism Cares), created Plan Wallata. and natural heritage. traditional Incan weaving skills, take a four- with local produce, participate in volunteer CUSCO The five-year plan’s stated mission is, “To hour trail hike through the Andes as if you activities, pitch in at a local school, even The model for such an achievement is provide Ollantaytambo with the strategic were an ancient Incan delivering a message witness an ancient Incan ritual. currently being played out in the village guidelines to intervene, accompany and to a neighboring village in the afternoon, and of Huilloc, a 20-minute drive from There are now over 30 private homes (private manage tourism, built by the stakeholders wrap up your day with an overnight stay in Ollyantaytambo. In Huilloc, visitors can start bedrooms and modern bathrooms) where 80 in a participatory manner, in pursuit a local family’s home. 81 The legendary Machu Picchu (Photo: Where Next). (Photo: G Adventures) The Sacred Valley. (Photo: Planeterra / G Adventures) Trekking the Inca Trail. (Photo: Leo Tamburri, Planeterra) A JOURNEY IN CHAPTER SEVEN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

you can stay the night with a Huilloc family. Plan Wallata is in its early stages now, and, You’ll enjoy home-cooked organic meals aside for the activities in Huilloc, its efforts prepared with local products harvested in would not be apparent to most of today’s ancient and sustainable ways. But more visitors. However, the plan’s goal of bringing than anything, you’ll feel the warmth of a about social improvement to Ollantaytambo CUSCO centuries-old Incan tradition of hospitality, and its surrounding area through tourism and the knowledge that your visit is making a is well underway, and will bear fruit positive contribution to the local community. in the years ahead. To learn more, visit: www.planwallata.org 82 83 Life between Photo: PROMPERU Volcanoes and Canyons AREQUIPA A JOURNEY IN CHAPTER EIGHT SUSTAINABLE TOURISM AREQUIPA Located on the southwest coast of Peru, the feet, and the Colca Canyon, which is twice as region of Arequipa offers a wide variety of deep as the Grand Canyon, is regarded as the topographies and attractions. The Pacific ideal place to witness Andean condors riding coastline is dotted with popular beaches and the thermals. The capital city of Arequipa is busy ports. The Cotahuasi Canyon is believed the second largest city in Peru, and boasts a to be the deepest in the world, at 11,598 renowned historic center. 84 85 CHAPTER EIGHT AREQUIPA 87

The annual Chaccu de Vicuñas. (Photo: Centuries-old weaving traditions are still practiced. Belmond Travel) (Photo: Belmond Travel)

TIMOTEO CORDORI YERBA CORDORI TIMOTEO – Once the ceremony is complete, community community is complete, the ceremony Once the coats the length of measure members long that are the vicuñas, and those of years three (It takes sheered. enough are wool Vicuña coat.) full a grow to vicuña a for and expensive. soft, rare is extraordinarily protected though vicuñas are And even local these government, the Peruvian by responsibly to permission have communities In manner. this in wool vicuña harvest the patrol members the community return, guarding the year, throughout mountains poachers. against division, Belmond RailPeru its Through de Vicuñas. support the annual Chaccu helps funding the ceremony, Belmond provides as prizes as well used in the ceremony, items By farmers. local between a competition for de Vicuñas, Belmond supporting the Chaccu traditions the cultural preserve is helping to the ensure while also helping to the past, of communities the local viability of economic come. to years for FARMER AND ALPACA RANCHER AND ALPACA FARMER “Thanks to the program, I’m better able to protect my alpacas’ my alpacas’ protect to able better I’m the program, “Thanks to turn I hope to Someday their fiber. of and the quality health who want to others for center an education into farm my small of their alpacas.” the health improve The Great Vicuna Roundup The Great sea above at 15,000 feet much grows Not Andean at these So the communities level. earn to vicuñas and alpacas on rely altitudes a living. And the people at Belmond Travel that possible. make helping to are an between the difference all, what’s of First but camelids, are and a vicuña? Both alpaca 6 about averaging is much larger, an alpaca at out a vicuña peaks whereas in height, feet of (The llama is the largest feet. under three 8 feet up to grow which can camelids, Peru’s domesticated, are alpacas Additionally, tall.) wild. and vicuñas are communities the mountainous year, Every a special, time- conduct near Arequipa de Vicuñas. Chaccu ceremony, honored long, multi- a very take members Community and use the mountains, up into rope colored (They spot. specific a to vicuñas the herd to it have never so that they use this technique includes ceremony The vicuñas). the touch to (Pachamama), Earth Mother to thanks giving the animals. and blessing 86 Chaccu de Vicuñas A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM CHAPTER EIGHT AREQUIPA

Sibayo residents now prefer traditional dress. (Photo: PROMPERU) 89

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A biking, even trout fishing with traditional, Sibayo what truly sets But hand-made nets. other from apart level) sea above feet (12,500 opportunity the is Andean towns charming immersion. cultural deep for a vast to exposed become Sibayo to Visitors music and From traditions. Incan of array thatched garb, traditional food, to dance, and more. textiles of dying and weaving roofs, which much of immersion, a true cultural It’s Supo Machaca. Ruth to be attributed can

Sibayo Sibayo (population 1,700) is known as a Stones Stone. or City of Ciudad de Piedra, form and Spanish times Incan both from the of some even and roads, the of many here, Sometimes town. Andean this in houses have centuries few if the last as it feels by. Sibayo simply passed the popular from drive than an hour’s Less is Sibayo Chivay, of destination tourism the majestic the beginning of considered partake can here Visitors Canyon. Colca mountain treks, interesting of a variety of How Homestays Helped Enrich a Community How Homestays

88 Community Sibayo, Andean A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM CHAPTER EIGHT AREQUIPA 91 the back of a llama. Due to the influx largest have Sibayo of many residents tourists, of payment) land as (such rituals ancient retaken musicians play the ancestral customs and other del the Valley music of Huayllacha (traditional of instead and harp, or bandolina a with Colca) which drink the chayaska, to prefer we beer, pisco with salt and burnt sugar, is prepared herbs.” and aromatic taste to peruvian other as a model for served Ruth homestay develop trying to communities their quality of boosting of as a way programs traditions. their cultural and maintaining life,

Woman in traditional dress. (Photo: PROMPERU instead of using cement. And before, the the before, And using cement. of instead and in divers dressed we Sibayo of women the traditional prefer we now polo shirts, the wear and wool in embroidered costumes hat.” collagua There are other ways the influx of tourism its hold onto town has helped to in Sibayo receive “we says, Ruth “In Sibayo,” traditions. the United Germany, Australia, from visitors are majority The places. other and States, and want the countryside people who enjoy such as having experiences, family share to and learning our customs. tea afternoon typical the crafts, the appreciate Tourists houses experiential in our stay and dances, you which allows service, a taxi also offer We on attractions and other visit the square to

A typical Sibayo home. (Photo: PROMPERU small spaces in their homes and offered and offered in their homes small spaces This started Slowly llama leather as a coat. Sibayo In 2006, some twenty change. to implement our and we Asetur formed families promoting started Then we houses. shelter the in Lima and in fairs in tourist ourselves which Tourism Community Rural of Meetings and Tourism Trade Foreign of the Minister year.” every organizes impact had a positive have The homestays the participating families. of on the lives community tourism “Rural Ruth, to According double our to members Asetur has allowed all is that in important more But income. that were the traditions values now Sibayo prefer today Householders be lost. to about straw and stone with adobe, build houses to

RUMILLACTA RUMILLACTA RUTH SUPO MACHACA. RUTH To learn more about Sibayo, visit www.peru.travel/en/experiences/sibayo more learn To – Ruth is presently the Coordinator and and the Coordinator is presently Ruth the of Houses “Experiential of President Sibayo of Services Tourist of Association in 2006 that formed a group ”Rumillacta,” visitors. Sibayo for homestays arranges development with tourism experience Ruth’s end there. not does however, in Sibayo, the Tourism and chaired governor She was Sibayo of Council the District of Commission 2014. She is a sought-after 2011 to from tourism. community of on the topic speaker in homestays of early days the recalls Ruth has evolved. the practice how and Sibayo, fair tourist that in 2003 a first “I remember “Some she says. in Sibayo,” organized was in visitors accommodate decided to families improvised created The hosts their homes. PRESIDENT, ASSOCIATION OF OF ASSOCIATION PRESIDENT, TOURIST SERVICES OF SIBAYO OF SIBAYO SERVICES TOURIST I love and gives me many satisfactions. I think I think satisfactions. and gives me many I love tourism has also empowered me as a woman.” empowered has also tourism “I am dedicated to tourism, it is an activity that that it is an activity tourism, to “I am dedicated

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 90 Nature Photo: Ernesto Benavides, PROMPERU at its finest MADRE DE DIOS A JOURNEY IN CHAPTER NINE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM MADRE DE DIOS

Located in southeastern Peru, the region of Manu National Park and Tambopata National Madre de Dios is almost entirely low-lying Reserve. It’s also home to indigenous Amazon rainforest. It’s home to two of Peru’s communities that promote ecotourism with

92 most spectacular natural protected areas: some of the richest biodiversity in the world. 93 CHAPTER NINE MADRE DE DIOS

Blue and gold macaws. (Photo: Anna Donlan) 95 of of beetles, 210 species of fish and 1,307 Whew! butterflies. of species exceptional Manu’s for the reasons One of 6,600 square over size, is simply its diversity diversity. topographical is its Another miles. than 14 no less The national park contains essentially Manu can ecosystems. distinctive the mountains sections: two be divided into and the lowlands. altitudes reach can area The mountainous area lowland while the 13,000 feet, up to basin. Amazon the of floor the part includes established was The Manu National Park To learn more, please visit www.peru.travel/en/attractions/manu-national-park please more, learn To

155 species of amphibian call Manu home. (Photo: Scale Massive on a Biodiversity recognized recently was Manu National Park species terrestrial as having the greatest made was on earth. This distinction diversity and Assessment Ecology the Tropical by organization non-profit (TEAM)—a Monitoring health. ecosystem that studies about? talking we are many species how So, in located Manu, do the numbers. Let’s 5,000 over is home to: Peru, southeastern 1,000 (including over plants of species species of trees), 221 species of mammals, 155 amphibian reptile, of 100 species 300 birds, of 1,000 species over species, species 650 approximately ants, of species Ernesto Benavides, PROMPERU)

94 Extraordinary Biodiversity Manu/Corridor, Manu/Corridor, A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Boats on the river (Photo: at sunset. Shutterstock) Caiman in the river. (Photo: Michael Tweddle) Eco lodge on the river. (Photo: Shutterstock) in 1973. It was recognized as a Biosphere The Purus-Manu corridor, is the source of Reserve in 1977, and declared a UNESCO four of the most important river basins in

A JOURNEY IN World Heritage Site in 1987. the Amazon. The local population – including over 60 communities from 15 ethnic groups Nature lovers are drawn to Manu by the – depends directly on the goods and services possibility of citing jaguars, pumas, tapirs, CHAPTER NINE provided by these forests, including water, giant armadillos, a whole host of monkeys, food, medicine, clothing and housing. The spectacled bears, macaws, condors, caimans SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Purus-Manu corridor is also home to some and anacondas. of the last groups of indigenous people in voluntary isolation and initial contact. As impressive as Manu is in and of itself, MADRE DE DIOS it becomes even more remarkable when The area encompasses the largest extension combined with two adjacent natural of responsibly managed forests for timber, protected areas: Alto Purus National Park and shiringa (vegetable latex) and other forests Purus Communal Reserve. Collectively this products. It also functions as a refuge for area is known as the Purus-Manu corridor, threatened species, such as river dolphins, and covers over 38,000 square miles—about and mahogany – which grows here at the the size of Iceland. highest concentration in the entire Amazon. 96 97 CHAPTER NINE MADRE DE DIOS

Who could say no to a hike like this? (Photo: Shutterstock) 99

The eyes of the jungle are always on you. (Photo: PROMPERU) ensure the conservation of Purus’ natural Purus’ natural of the conservation ensure wealth. indigenous and engaging • Empowering management in the conservation, peoples and economic benefits of mahogany.For tree the logging brought had illegal years, WWF extinction. the brink of to species and which trained a program supported sustainably to peoples enabled indigenous sell legally and seeds mahogany harvest in engaged companies private to them earn able to Now activities. reforestation mahogany down cutting not a living from their embraced have communities local trees, conservation. the rare provides Manu National Park diverse, most at its see nature to opportunity is a model corridor and the Purus-Manu that stories success the conservation of local when government, be achieved can strive organizations and private communities goal. a common for For these and many other reasons the the reasons and many other these For action has inspired corridor Purus-Manu organizations, conservation of a number by (WWF). Fund Wildlife including World in the Amazon working has been WWF and has been than 40 years, more for sustainability of number a in instrumental corridor, in the Purus-Manu stories success national help to technical including providing the natural of the creation for authorities successes Other themselves. areas protected included: have a Master of • Supporting the development, With Park. Purus National the Alto Plan for this plan laid many stakeholders, from input ensuring the conservation for strategy a out while allowing resources, natural the park’s of economically the neighboring populations to them. from benefit the foster to stakeholders key • Convening to commitments environmental necessary

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 98 Tambopata National Reserve

Studying Biodiversity to Protect Biodiversity

The Tambopata National Reserve is an rocks offering a spectacular sight of color extraordinary place. Located in southeastern and sound, particularly between 5:30 am Peru, in the Madre de Dios region, Tambopata and 9:00 am. Mammals such as wild pigs, is over 1,000 square miles of subtropical peccary and tapirs can generally be seen at

Amazon rainforest. The level of biodiversity night on mountain or inland rock formations. ) a r r here is staggering. One of these is the Colorado rock formation, e t a k the biggest in the entire Peruvian Amazon. In : The reserve is home to 632 species of to o h (P birds, 169 mammals and 1,200 butterflies. Tambopata is the home of the Ese Eja, an l a v do Additionally, the reserve is surrounded by the indigenous group that has lived in the area an S ke La Bahuaja Sonene National Park on the south since ancient times and knows every inch e on A boat rid

A JOURNEY IN side, making it an important conservation of the reserve. The Ese Eja are currently area in Peru. organized in three communities: Palma Real,

Sonene and Infierno. The latter community CHAPTER NINE Sandoval Lake is the most visited attraction works together with private companies to in the reserve due to its closeness to Puerto offer diverse activities and tourism services Maldonado (the Madre de Dios capital city, One company focused on conservation in and Inkaterra Asociacion. Self-funded through SUSTAINABLE TOURISM including lodging and guided tours, among which is only half an hour away by boat). around Tambopata is Inkaterra, a Peruvian ecotourism, Inkaterra Asociación is a non- others. The project has been considered a On the lake, which is home to macaws and hospitality company founded in 1975 by Jose profit organization committed to scientific

global success, thanks to the cooperation MADRE DE DIOS a numerous river otter families, there are Koechlin. Inkaterra built its first property, research as a basis for biodiversity between the community and a private lodges for accommodation. There is also an Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, adjacent to conservation, education and the wellbeing company to offer a beneficial eco-tourism observation tower for a panoramic view of the reserve, and shortly thereafter purchased of local communities. Since its founding, product. the vast landscape. 10,000 acres of adjacent rainforest to create the organization has produced major flora Conservation of an area with such natural the Reserva Ecologica Inkaterra. and fauna inventories to measure its impact Another attraction are the rock formations riches is a high priority to many groups and over its areas of influence in the Amazon found on the river banks. Hundreds of birds To further conservation efforts in the organizations, especially given the threat of rainforest of Madre de Dios and other parts (macaws, falcons and parrots) gather on the area, in 1978, Inkaterra established illegal gold mining, which has grown lately. 100 of Peru. 101 CHAPTER NINE MADRE DE DIOS 103 used in 340 different ways. used in 340 different include Geonoma deversa, species These used in local leaves impermeable with large architecture for thatched roof weaving; palm (Phytelephas or ivory the Yarina macrocarpa), with valuable seeds employed in handcrafts; and the walking palm tree (Socratea exorrhiza), which moves its roots sunlight. of in search and species permanent monitoring Through propagation in plant nurseries, scientific preserve aims to in the Palmetum research on awareness while raising diversity, genetic development palms in the economic of the role

Boulenger´s Bush Anole 1908 (Polychrus Liogaster), found GUIDES FIELD STATION INKATERRA deep in the located This small eco-lodge, students, scientists, welcomes jungle, Amazon be to travelers and eco-conscious volunteers and conservation research diverse part of Asociación. Inkaterra by overseen projects pavilions, large and two cabanas With four and a lab for an Eco-Center houses the lodge fauna analysis. and flora native PALMETUM to created project is a forestry The Palmetum native of array a diverse and conserve study and cultural their features palms. Studying the 23 19 of hosts meaning, the Palmetum and culture Ese’Eja the by identified species in Peru, Bolivia, Brazil and Ecuador (Photo: Inkaterra)

Neotropical Blunt-headed Treesnake, or fiddle-string snake (Imantodes Cenchoa), found in Mexico, Central America, and South America (Photo: Inkaterra) River, to the Peru-Bolivia border. the Peru-Bolivia to River, aim to corridors landscape Sustainable local of development the economic enhance and other ecotourism through communities use sustainable on the based activities on strategic Relying resources. natural of State, Department of with the U.S. alliances Conservation for the Smithsonian Center Bank of the Development and Sustainability, Latin America (CAF), Fondo de las Américas organizations, influential other and (FONDAM) aims to project new Asociación’s Inkaterra in assist and wildlife in fluctuations stabilize fragmentation. habitat repairing Inkaterra Asociación is currently operating operating Asociación is currently Inkaterra Tambopata in and around projects several National Reserve. LANDSCAPE CORRIDOR SUSTAINABLE has caused the region in Human activity become occasionally to areas wildlife to In order each other. from disconnected and among landscapes connectivity improve land as well as region, the in ecosystems in mercury of reduction the and management the proposed has Asociación Inkaterra water, sustainable mile, 300-square a of creation the Tambopata off corridor landscape the city of running from National Reserve, de Dios Maldonado along the Madre Puerto

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 102 Reserva Amazonica (Photo: Inkaterra) One of eight hanging bridges along the Inkaterra Canopy Walkway near Inkaterra

“Despite knowing that Madre de Dios is one of our planet’s richest biodiversity hotspots, the Amazon rainforest never ceases to astonish us, as the place where life finds its origins. The life experience provided by the Amazon is both humbling and enriching, committing each guest to the conservancy of local cultures and wildlife.” – JOSE KOECHLIN FOUNDER, INKATERRA

Inkaterra association: www.inkaterra.com/inkaterra-asociacion-org/en/

of native communities, encouraging species that include jaguar, ocelot, giant sustainable business opportunities to armadillo, tapir, peccarie and tamandua. conserve the Amazon rainforest. GREENLAB BIRD MONITORING Established at Inkaterra Guides Field Station, Over 500 bird species have been registered GreenLab is the first molecular biology and within the areas conserved by Inkaterra genetics field research laboratory set up Asociación in the Amazon rainforest of in the Amazon rainforest. This initiative Madre de Dios. Four monitoring techniques aims to explore and apply genetic research are practiced, such as bird banding, which methodologies to conserve Amazonian and allows the codification of species dynamics. broader Peruvian biodiversity by local capacity building. With four sampling sites, the presence

A JOURNEY IN of a species in a given environment can The devices in this laboratory are designed to be registered, as well as its growth and withstand the most adverse conditions, while

reproductive phase. These and other data are simultaneously being portable and efficient CHAPTER NINE shared with the Center of Ornithology and for research and conservation. Applying Biodiversity (CORBIDI). Inkaterra Asociación genetic research to biodiversity conservation SUSTAINABLE TOURISM also works with local communities to will give access to previously unknown protect endemic species, and provide a safe information to design and implement more

migratory route for birds flying from North effective conservation actions. MADRE DE DIOS America to Patagonia. The biodiversity found in the Tambopata FAUNA MONITORING National Reserve is unlike that found A motion-sensitive camera trap system virtually anywhere else in the world. installed around the Inkaterra property And it’s something local communities and allows researchers to study the behavior of organizations like Inkaterra and Inkaterra native wildlife. Every month, these cameras Asociación are fighting hard to protect.

104 capture over 1,000 photos of 61 different 105 Keeping A Way Of Photo: PROMPERU Life Afloat PUNO A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM CHAPTER TEN

The Puno region is located in the very Amazon rainforest. Its capital city is Puno, southwestern corner of Peru, bordering which is on the shore of Lake Titicaca, nestled Bolivia. Seventy percent of the land in the between the lake and the surrounding PUNO region is Andean, and the remaining 30% mountains.

106 107 Uros Titino

)

O R P

: o t o h P ( . ) s e U s R u E o P h W M e k a O a te R r P m f : o o to t w o d l h e a (P s bo . u un aca ds itic en on Lake T v e is n, su the in ying Tortora, dr

A JOURNEY IN The Floating Communities of Lake Titicaca

The Uros people live on rafts. They’re Four of the islands hold families, and the islands they live on. Other activities include duck and Puna duck, láridos like seagulls large rafts, floating islands really, capable fifth hosts a school. ancestral cooking demonstrations, boat rides, and podicipédidos like the Titicaca Diver and SUSTAINABLE TOURISM of holding 4-5 families and their houses. bird watching, wildlife spotting and fishing Pimpollo Diver, several of these species take Visitors are welcome at the Ccappi Uros CHAPTER TEN They’re made of reeds, and they float on in the traditional Uros manner. advantage of the algae and vegetation found Titino community, which is a two-hour boat the waters of Lake Titicaca, as they have at the base of the totorales. On so many ride from Puno. Here you can see how the In addition to keeping their cultural traditions for centuries. levels, the totorales are a critical element last descendants of the Uros preserve their alive, the Uros Titino community members of the ecosystem of the Titicaca National The community of Ccappi Uros Titino is customs and traditions. Not surprisingly, are vigilant stewards of the totorales. The

Reserve (TNR). PUNO located within the Titicaca National Reserve many of these traditions involve totora. totorales serve as nurseries to many native and made up of five distinct floating islands, On a visit here, you can see how the local fish species, and help stop land erosion. They Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake built from totora, a reed-like plant (bulrush families harvest the totora, dry it and weave provide a refuge and nesting area to various in the world, is located in the Puno region, sedge) that grows wild in groves known as it into handicrafts, and more useful items species of birds, including rallids such as and shares a border with Bolivia. With an

108 totorales around Lake Titicaca. like furniture, boats, homes and the very Choka and Tiquicho, ducks such as Pana average altitude of 12,500 feet above sea 109 A traditional boat made of woven tortora. (Photo: MINCETUR) Passing on local traditions doesn’t have to be all work. (Photo: MINCETUR) A JOURNEY IN Lake Titicaca National Reserve: www.peru.travel/en/attractions/lake-titicaca For more information please contact: [email protected] SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

level, the Titicaca National Reserve stretches species being birds, including the Titicaca over half of it is in Peruvian territory. The Bolivia. The Uros people are blessed to live CHAPTER TEN over 140 square miles. duck, and the famous giant Titicaca frog, lake itself has been divided into three zones: in a strikingly beautiful part of the world known as kelli or huankele. the Large or Chucuito Lake (928 feet deep at where they can maintain their traditional This area protects Lake Titicaca’s flora and its deepest point), the Small or Wiñaymarca way of life with the help of the totora reeds. fauna, contributes to the socio-economic The entire length of the Peruvian part Lake and the Puno Bay.

development of the region and helps to keep of Lake Titicaca was recognized by the They recognize, however, that this way of life PUNO alive the traditional cultures of the people Ramsar Convention in 1997 as a wetland Its main tributaries are the Ramis, Huancané, is a potentially fragile one that requires eternal who inhabit the area. of international importance, especially as a Coata, Ilave and Suches rivers. Lake Titicaca vigilance and ongoing conservation efforts. habitat for aquatic birds. is the source of the Desaguadero river, which The TNR protects the lake’s great biological acts as a natural border between Peru and 110 diversity, with the most representative Of the almost 3,320 square miles of the lake, 111 Paramis

)

U T E C N I M : o t o h (P . g in th ) lo R l c na U Traditio T E C N I M : o t o h (P . s r e w o p g n li a e h nd l a na tio tri nu ve s ha ient Local ingred

) The Healing Community R U

N of Paramis I M

: o t o A JOURNEY IN h P On the shores of Lake Titicaca, in the very a variety of ailments. These plants include: ( . s e il t southeastern corner of Peru, there’s a small x e t • Chiri chiri (in Spanish, “grindela”)--for l u village where ancient Incan healing practices rf lo muscle aches and bone fractures co s it are very much alive and well. r fo n ow kn • High Mass (Alta Misa)—for headaches, amis is SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Paramis is a tiny, quiet community of 20 Par

migraines and low-grade fever CHAPTER TEN families in Capachica, about a 90-minute drive from Puno. The village has become well • Yahuar chonka--for heart disease and Paramis is one of the few communities in Four of the families who live in Paramis known for keeping centuries-old traditions circulatory problems (the plant is believed Peru still creating ancient medicines and have set up guest rooms in their homes, of medicine alive. Visitors can learn how to to regulate blood pressure and tachycardia, practicing traditional medical procedures. where for a modest fee, you can experience identify and properly pick plants that are and generally improve the heart rate). Its PUNO Families here are fighting for the day-to-day family life in the village. This unique to the Altiplano (Plateau) area of leaves are also used for wounds. conservation and revaluation of medicinal, includes preparing meals, and learning about Peru and Bolivia, and have special medicinal • Llanten—for healing internal and external aromatic and ornamental plants, as well as the local, organic ingredients that go into purposes. Visitors are then taught how to wounds, also works as an anti-inflammatory the reforestation of native trees. them. These include potato, quinoa, barley, prepare the plants to serve as “cures” for 112 and treats eye and skin irritations. wheat, beans, corn and more. 113 CHAPTER TEN PUNO A typical montera (woman’s hat). (Photo: MINCETUR) 115

Photo: MINCETUR

Paramis is also known for its traditional, traditional, its for is also known Paramis hand-made embroidered clothes. Jackets, vests, monteras (women’s hats), as well with all adorned are belts of as the fabric and sold throughout Andean iconography, the region. keep to hard work Paramis of The families especially alive, ancient Andean traditions them share Being able to healing traditions. help able to are they is one way with tourists that happen. make BALBINO QUISPE FLORES – PARAMIS COMMUNITY TOURISM ADVOCATE TOURISM COMMUNITY PARAMIS The village strives to maintain the essence essence the maintain to strives village The additional through culture Andean the of as such and activities practices traditional and the Incan tools, using ancestral farming Pachamama to giving blessings of ritual (Mother Earth) for her bounty. Visitors ancient and other part in these take can activities. modern-day more course, of are, There such in Paramis, enjoy can visitors activities as trekking, fishing and boatrides around the lake. “Visitors who come to our community leave very happy and grateful for the the for very happy and grateful leave our community to who come “Visitors since when they say goodbye, have shed tears some we provide, services and affection.” familiarity them with great when they arrive we treat

A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 114 Darrell Wade Interview

DW: To have happy customers, you give them tourism. There’s climate change, for instance. great experiences. You engage them with the So we ask, what can we do to reduce our destination. You engage them with the local carbon emissions? people and you give your travelers—and Gender equality is another SDG we’re trying your staff—a sense of the future. to address. So is SDG Number 8, employment. Let’s talk about how we can engage local What can organizations do to foster good communities in finding a better way forward, quality, decently paid work, particularly in engage our travelers, engage our staff. So developing countries? bring all of your stakeholders into the You have a program in Peru, Awamaki, that journey, and that journey is a positive one. seems to be addressing that. It’s where An Interview With Darrell Wade At the same time, people are on vacation, you’re training local men to work as porters they want to have fun. (mostly on the Inca Trail). Prior to the crisis, PROMPERU sat down with Darrell Wade: Well, first of all, I should Darrell Wade, co-founder Intrepid Travel. say that I don’t particularly like the term, DW: That’s a really great point. People want DW; Yes, that’s a good example. Hopefully, “sustainable tourism.” The reason is that to have a great holiday. Now, we can use people are getting up-skilled, and developing With more than 1,000 adventures in I think all tourism should be sustainable. sustainability to give them a great holiday, language skills. Most likely, they’re coming over 100 countries, Intrepid Travel is the I think the minute we start talking about so there’s not a contradiction there, but just from underprivileged backgrounds, and this world’s largest adventure travel company. sustainable tourism, we box ourselves into remember that this person’s on holiday, so is providing an entry point to get stable, A JOURNEY IN Naturally, Intrepid Travel offers numerous a niche. let’s lighten the load, and give them the best well-paying jobs. trips to Peru, including some that feature holiday they’ve ever had. a homestay in a traditional community on If anything, I would be encouraging all What role do you think the traveler has in the shores of Lake Titicaca. Darrell Wade suppliers to do the exact opposite, and Tell us about the Intrepid Foundation. promoting sustainable tourism? co-founded the company over three decades say, “Hey, we are a tourism company, BUT DW: It’s our primary vehicle for raising and DW: There’s two stages for the traveler. SUSTAINABLE TOURISM ago, and continues to be an evangelist for we have a better way to travel. And that

distributing philanthropic donations. We There’s the contemplative stage—they CHAPTER TEN the unique experiences that can arise from better way to travel is one that brings all established it for legal reasons. Australian haven’t traveled yet, but they want to. They responsible travel. As the Intrepid Travel stakeholders into the picture.” law says if you’re raising philanthropic haven’t decided if they want to jump on a website puts it, “Sustainable travel doesn’t As a tourism company, ultimately you want funds, you must be a registered charity. US cruise ship with 6,000 people, or sit on a mean no fun. It means that fun can be used to make some money so that you can, you law is the same. beach in Mexico, or travel around Peru.

to benefit others.” PUNO know, pay your shareholders and pay your We want to use tourism as an engine for an So, in that contemplative stage, there’s a Our first question is very broad, what is staff and so forth. But beyond that you want NGO’s development, so we look at the UN responsibility for the traveler to ask, “Okay, a travel company’s role in advancing to have happy customers Sustainable Development Goals (SDG), and what am I trying to achieve here?” And to sustainable tourism? How do you do that? there’s seven or eight that really relate to a certain extent, “What are the things I’m 116 117 A traditional Puno farm. (Photo: MINCETUR)

trying to avoid?” will continue to grow, as well.

So, then there’s the second stage, when Within that tourism space, I think there will the traveler arrives in the destination. The be a heightened shift toward sustainability. traveler wants to get maximum enjoyment Now, whether that’s through the UN and out of the trip. Maybe they want to meet the SDGs, or carbon emissions, or governments people of Peru. Well, how can you do that? and taxing issues, or through media Maybe you talk to the staff at a restaurant. exposure of that practice, or clients driving The waiter might mention a particular an expectation of higher standards. Probably museum, or a particular handicrafts store. a bit of all of the above. It’s how you approach things and how you Will travel and sustainable travel ultimately behave as a traveler. just become one? Your communications do a nice job of DW: That’s the dream, isn’t it? Travel is promising a great experience, while planting sustainable, so it’s not sustainable travel, the seeds of responsible travel. Care to per se, it’s just travel, but it happens to be comment on that? at a very sustainable level. It creates great DW: Our role is to get people out of classic, societal outcomes--doesn’t do damage. A JOURNEY IN mainstream travel, and get them travelling If we can take a person to Peru, and they can better. You get people off the cruise lines, experience that country, they start to think out of the tour buses, out of the resorts, they differently about issues of race and color, travel with us, and they go, “Oh my God, this and environment and so forth. So when they

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM is a so much better way to travel.” And this come back to their day job in Los Angeles, starts to change their thinking as to what is CHAPTER TEN they start to change their behaviors and their role as a part of the world. think about the world differently. Where do you see tourism, and sustainable tourism going in the future? PUNO DW: To a certain extent, I think the trends we’re seeing now will just continue. I think more companies like us will continue to grow for the next five years. Also, large

118 companies like Hilton or Royal Caribbean 119 Conclusion Photo: WWF US A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM CONCLUSION As you can see, the principles of sustainable Peruvian travel/tourism industry. Even tourism have found a welcoming home in though international travel may not be Peru. The stories you’ve read here, however, possible at this moment, we look forward are just the tip of the iceberg. There are to the day when it is again safe to travel, and numerous other stories of environmental we can share some of those with you. In the responsibility, cultural preservation and meantime, stay safe and be well. economic development going on in the 120 121 PERU. A JOURNEY IN SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

A PUBLICATION BY THE PERU EXPORT GENERAL PRODUCTION: AND TOURISM BOARD: Green Team Global, Inc. PROMPERU GENERAL EDITING: Calle Uno Oeste N50, Piso 14, Hugh Hough PERU Urb Corpac, San Isidro, DESIGN: Lima - Peru Diego Jimenez TELEPHONE: (51-1) 616-7300 DRAFTING: VISIT PERU www.promperu.gob.pe Alice Hough, Hank Stewart, © PROMPERU 2020 Hugh Hough All rights reserved WRITING AND PROOFREADING: VISITPERU Free distribution Hank Stewart

VISITPERU ACKNOWLEDGMENTS: PROMPERU and Green Team Global would like to acknowledge the following individuals and organizations that made this project possible: Shannon Stowell, Adventure Travel Trade Association (introduction), Kiara Julca Castaneda, SERNANP, Steve Cox, International Expeditions, Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve Photo: PROMPERU (Loreto), Bruno Monteferri, Conservamos Por Naturaleza, Mara Brcic Bello, SPDA, Bejamin Webb, Marañon Experiences, Marañon River (Cajamarca), Constantine Auca, ECOAN, Abra Patricia, (Amazonas), Elia Garcia de Reategui, Patarashca Restaurant, Cacao Route, Cindy Reategui Garcia, La Patarashca Tours, Tingana Ecological Reserve (San Martin), Heinz Plenge, Juan, Andres Plenge, Chapari (Lambayeque), Saul Manosalva, Peru Travel Together, Cañoncillo (La Libertad), Nick Stanziano, SA Expeditions, Jorge Martel Alvarado, Llamatrek (Ancash), Hernan & Cary Martorelli, Nazca Ecológica, San Fernando National Reserve (ICA), Jamie Sweeting, Planeterra, G Adventures, Tourism Cares, Plan Wallata (Cusco), Rocío Leon Medrano, MINCETUR, Carla Reyes, Yvet Llanos Grimaldo, Timoteo Cordori Yerba, Belmond Travel, Ruth Supo Machaca, Rumillaqta Sibayo (Arequipa), WWF Peru, Manu National Reserve, Elizabeth Milicich, Claire André de Cerf, Jose Koechlin, Inkaterra, Tambopata (Madre de Dios), Magnolia Gutierrez, MINCETUR, Balbino Quispe Flores, Paramis, Darrell Wade, Intrepid Travel (Puno).