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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 595 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. AUTHOR THANKS Stuart Butler, Steve Fallon, Will Gourlay, and Virginia Maxwell, and to Jo Cooke for her Anthony Ham patience with my acronym queries. And a huge Shukran to all of those from Cairo to İstanbul çok teşekkürler to Ömer Yapıs; Kazım and Ayşe and most places in between who have, on Akay and Bekir Kırca; Ömer and Ahmet in Kaş; every visit, reinforced my love affair with the Meral; and Yakup Kahveci. region. A heartfelt thanks to my editor Helen Elfer, my coauthors, and to Marina, Carlota and Virginia Maxwell Valentina, my three girls who make coming Many thanks to Lynne Miller, Lou-Ellen Martin, home the greatest gift in the world. My work Dana Nasr, Hala Mansour, Olivier Gougeon, on this book is dedicated to Ron, whose visit to Paul Newson and Ruth Young. Damascus all those years ago made it a true place of the soul. Daniel Robinson Special thanks to Irit Steinberg (Hula Nature Sofia Barbarani Reserve), Riki & Dov Ruckenstein and Moshe Thank you to the many local men and women Tov Kreps (Tzfat); Etha & Erwin Frenkel who helped me get my bearings and pointed (Korazim); Mariana Bravo (Magdala); Moshe me towards the region’s more beautiful sights. Ohz (Tiberias); Nissim Mazig (Kursi); Ayala To all the welcoming families that took me into & Ofer Markman and Roni Barziv (Haifa); their homes during my travels, making the Maoz Yinon, Linda Hallel, Sami Jabali & Silke, Kurdish experience all the more genuine and Emile Emran, Abed and Abu Ayyad of the meaningful. To my Kurdish friends, who gave White Mosque, and Tariq Bsoul of Nazarene up their best-kept secrets and took me to their Transport & Tourism (Nazareth); Michal and favourite spots for the benefit of the guide. Sivan (Ein Gedi Nature Reserve); Sarinah, Most of all thank you to Michael Stephens, who Leo, Bella and Shoshana Kalb (Ein Bokek); was always patient and supportive. Asaf Madmony (Ne’ot HaKikar); and, most especially, my wife Rachel and son Yair for Jessica Lee their unceasing support, understanding and Big thanks to fellow authors on the Turkey patience. guide: James Bainbridge, Brett Atkinson, 596 Anthony Sattin Burren and Eduardo Cuadrado Diogo for Among the many people who have provided keeping things going at home while I’m away. assistance, information, advice and gossip Jenny Walker during the research and writing of this book, Returning to Jordan is always a great pleas- I would particularly like to thank HE Hisham ure, not just on account of the spectacular Zaazou, Minister of Tourism to the Egyptian BEHIND THE SCENES scenery and ‘wondrous sights’, but also be- Tourist Authority, and Mrs Omayma El Hus- cause the people of Jordan are so unfailingly seini, director of the Egyptian State Tourist Of- welcoming and optimistic in the face of great fice London; to the experts Ali and Elisabeth challenges. Thanks as ever to all Jordanian at the International Travel Bureau of Egypt; Dr friends who have helped over the years of Mounir Neamatalla; Heba Bakri; Christopher engagement with this chapter and to my Tutty; Rafic Khairallah; Christoph Schleissing; beloved husband, Sam Owen, who continues Linda Wheeler; Zeina Abou Kheir; Marwa and to accompany and support beyond the call of Mohammed Abdel Rehim; Tim Baily; Aiman duty during research and write-up. Zaki; and Dr Haitham Ibrahim and Mohamed Ezat of the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Agency. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Andy Symington Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Kind help was provided by numerous Iranians ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate but I owe especial thanks to Rosa Khishdoust, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Nasser Khan, Hassan Kandovani, Najafi Sciences, 11, 163344. Mehran, Shary Zarrin Panjeh, Amir Abedin- pour, Lourdes Villa Diez, Jo Cooke, Mustafa Hocaoglu, Yousef Shariyat, David Thomson, Illustrations pp60–1, pp84–5, pp124–5, Mohsen Asadi, Hassan Khakbaz, Massoun pp220–1, pp418–9, pp424–5 and pp446–7 Khani, Mary Northmore, Helen Carmichael, by Javier Zarracina; pp328–9 by Michael YuanYuan Huang, Miguel García, editor Helen Weldon. Elfer and expert coordinator Anthony Ham. Thanks to my family for their support and Cover photograph: Wadi Rum and Jebel to José Eliseo Vázquez González, Michael Qatar, Jordan; Michele Falzone/AWL. Destination Editor James, Anne Mulvaney, THIS BOOK Helen Elfer Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin This 8th edition of Lonely Plan- Product Editor Assisting Cartographers et’s Middle East guidebook Katie O’Connell Corey Hutchison was researched and written by Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher coordinating author Anthony Valentina Kremenchutskaya Naomi Parker Ham, and Sofia Barbarani, Book Designer Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Jessica Lee, Virginia Maxwell, Jennifer Mullins Angie Mills-Smith, Ilana Myers, Daniel Robinson, Anthony Assisting Editors Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Sattin, Andy Symington and Denis O’Connor, Ellie Simpson, Jenny Walker. Kate Chapman, Samantha Forge, Gabrielle Innes, Kate Lauren Wellicome, Kristina West ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 597 Index ABBREVIATIONS Lebanon 373 travel to/from 305-6 Petra (J) 11, 327-37, E Egypt Turkey 433, 497 travel within 306 328-9 , 330-1, 332, In Iran Ajloun (J) 310-11 Ani (T) 483 10-11, 328-9 Iq Iraq Akko (Acre; IPT) 246-8, 247 animals 25, 281, 557-9 Pyramids of Giza 11, 58-64, 58, 60-1, 11, IPT Israel and the Alamut Valley (In) 154-6 Ankara (T) 470-2 60-1 Palestinian Territories Alanya (T) 468-9 Antakya (T) 469-70 Roman Amphitheatre J Jordan Al-Bireh (IPT) 264-6 Antalya (T) 464-7, 465 Alexandria (E) 77 L Lebanon alcohol 135, 145, 265, 400, Antep, see Gaziantep Unfinished Obelisk Aswan 534, 546, see also S Syria Anzac Cove (T) 442 (E) 99 drinks, wine T Turkey Aqaba (J) 339-44, 340 Valley of the Kings (E) 88 Alexander the Great 505 Arab Spring, the 500, Western Wall Tunnels Alexandria (E) 76-82, 78, 80 529-31 Jerusalem (IPT) 219 A accommodation 77-9 Aanjar (L) 390-1 Arabian oryx 558 architecture 179, 235, 537-41 drinking & nightlife 80-1 Abbas, Mahmoud 274, 278 Arabic language 586-8 Armenia 520 food 79-80 Abraham 535 Arafat, Yasser 264, 276-7, arts & crafts 72 history 76 278, 524, 529 Abu Simbel (E) 103-4 Ashura 29 information 81 Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh accommodation 568, see Aswan (E) 97-102, 98, 100 orientation 81 (In) 165, 33 also individual locations accommodation 99-101 travel to/from 81-2 archaeological sites 40, see language 587, 588, 590, food 101 travel within 82 also ruins 591 information 101-3 Al-Haram ash-Sharif (Temple Aanjar (L) 390-1 Acre, see Akko sights 98-9 Mount; IPT) 12, 218, Abu Simbel (E) 103-4 activities 26-9, 40-4, see travel to/from 101-2 220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1 Alamut Castle (In) 155 also individual activities Aswan High Dam (E) 103 Al-Kharga Oasis (E) 104-5 Al-Bass Archaeological Aegean Coast (T) 439-56, Atatürk, Mustafa Kemal Al-Maghtas, see Bethany- Site (L) 386-7 439 492-3, 518, 519 Beyond-the-Jordan Al-Mina Archaeological Agilika Island (E) 102-3 ATMs 570 Al-Qaeda 205, 501, 528 Site (L) 385-6 air travel 574, 576 Avanos (T) 477 Al-Quseir (E) 115-16 Ancient Bathhouse Egypt 136 Nazareth (IPT) 248 Aya Sofya (T) 416, 424-5, Amman (J) 294-306, 296, Iran 183-4 424-5, 424-5 298-9, 302 Baalbek Ruins (L) 390 Iraq 208 Ayvalık (T) 442-3 accommodation 297-9 Byblos (L) 376-7 Israel and the Palestinian Azaris 152 children, travel with 304 Capernaum 253 Territories 287-8, 289 Azraq (J) 317-19 drinking & nightlife 303 Catacombs of Kom Jordan 353, 354 ash-Suqqafa (E) 77 emergency services 304 Lebanon 403 City of David (IPT) 219 entertainment 304 B Turkey 497 Jerusalem Archaeological food 299-301 Baalbek (L) 390 airports 21, 574 Park & Davidson Centre Egypt 74-5, 136 history 294-5 (IPT) 219 Babylonian Empire 202 Iran 149 internet access 304 Kursi National Park (IPT) Baghdad (Iq) 512 Iraq 194, 201 media 305 253 Bahariya Oasis (E) 107-8 Israel and the Palestinian medical services 305 Madaba Archaeological ballooning 14, 40, 476, 14 Territories 231, 240, 287 money 305 Park I (J) 320 bargaining 133, 182 Jordan 306, 353 postal services 305 Magdala (IPT) 252 Batroun (L) 378-9 shopping 304 Masada (IPT) 259-60 Bauhaus architecture 235 sights 295-7 Memphis, Saqqara & bazaars, see markets Dahshur (E) 76 Map Pages 000 telephone services 305 Bazar-e Bozorg (In) 156 Necropolis of Al-Bagawat Photo Pages tourist information 305 Bcharré (L) 381-2 000 (E) 104 598 beaches 25, 46 biblical sites & landmarks, medical services 72 Salahaddin’s Fortress Amman Beach (J) 314 see religious sites money 72 (Iq) 195 Aqaba (J) 341-2 bicycle
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