©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 595

Behind the Scenes

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AUTHOR THANKS ­Stuart Butler, Steve Fallon, Will Gourlay, and Virginia Maxwell, and to Jo Cooke for her Anthony Ham ­patience with my acronym queries. And a huge Shukran to all of those from Cairo to çok teşekkürler to Ömer Yapıs; Kazım and Ayşe and most places in between who have, on Akay and Bekir Kırca; Ömer and Ahmet in Kaş; every visit, reinforced my love affair with the Meral; and Yakup Kahveci. region. A heartfelt thanks to my editor Helen Elfer, my coauthors, and to Marina, Carlota and Virginia Maxwell ­Valentina, my three girls who make coming Many thanks to Lynne Miller, Lou-Ellen Martin, home the greatest gift in the world. My work Dana Nasr, Hala Mansour, Olivier Gougeon, on this book is dedicated to Ron, whose visit to Paul Newson and Ruth Young. Damascus all those years ago made it a true place of the soul. Daniel Robinson Special thanks to Irit Steinberg (Hula Nature Sofia Barbarani Reserve), Riki & Dov Ruckenstein and Moshe Thank you to the many local men and women Tov Kreps (Tzfat); Etha & Erwin Frenkel who helped me get my bearings and pointed ­(Korazim); Mariana Bravo (Magdala); Moshe me towards the region’s more beautiful sights. Ohz (Tiberias); Nissim Mazig (Kursi); Ayala To all the welcoming families that took me into & Ofer Markman and Roni Barziv (Haifa); their homes during my travels, making the Maoz Yinon, Linda Hallel, Sami Jabali & Silke, Kurdish experience all the more genuine and Emile Emran, Abed and Abu Ayyad of the meaningful. To my Kurdish friends, who gave White , and Tariq Bsoul of Nazarene up their best-kept secrets and took me to their ­Transport & Tourism (Nazareth); Michal and favourite spots for the benefit of the guide. Sivan (Ein Gedi Nature Reserve); Sarinah, Most of all thank you to Michael Stephens, who Leo, Bella and Shoshana Kalb (Ein Bokek); was always patient and supportive. Asaf Madmony (Ne’ot HaKikar); and, most especially, my wife Rachel and son Yair for Jessica Lee their unceasing support, understanding and Big thanks to fellow authors on the patience. guide: James Bainbridge, Brett Atkinson, 596 Anthony Sattin ­Burren and Eduardo Cuadrado Diogo for Among the many people who have provided keeping things going at home while I’m away. assistance, information, advice and gossip Jenny Walker during the research and writing of this book, Returning to Jordan is always a great pleas- I would particularly like to thank HE Hisham ure, not just on account of the spectacular Zaazou, Minister of Tourism to the Egyptian BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND scenery and ‘wondrous sights’, but also be- Tourist Authority, and Mrs Omayma El Hus- cause the people of Jordan are so unfailingly seini, director of the Egyptian State Tourist Of- welcoming and optimistic in the face of great fice London; to the experts Ali and Elisabeth challenges. Thanks as ever to all Jordanian at the International Travel Bureau of Egypt; Dr friends who have helped over the years of Mounir Neamatalla; Heba Bakri; Christopher engagement with this chapter and to my Tutty; Rafic Khairallah; Christoph Schleissing; beloved husband, Sam Owen, who continues Linda Wheeler; Zeina Abou Kheir; Marwa and to accompany and support beyond the call of Mohammed Abdel Rehim; Tim Baily; Aiman duty during research and write-up. Zaki; and Dr Haitham Ibrahim and Mohamed Ezat of the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Agency. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Andy Symington Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- Kind help was provided by numerous Iranians ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate but I owe especial thanks to Rosa Khishdoust, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Nasser Khan, Hassan Kandovani, Najafi Sciences, 11, 163344. Mehran, Shary Zarrin Panjeh, Amir Abedin- pour, Lourdes Villa Diez, Jo Cooke, Mustafa Hocaoglu, Yousef Shariyat, David Thomson, Illustrations pp60–1, pp84–5, pp124–5, Mohsen Asadi, Hassan Khakbaz, Massoun pp220–1, pp418–9, pp424–5 and pp446–7 Khani, Mary Northmore, Helen Carmichael, by Javier Zarracina; pp328–9 by Michael YuanYuan Huang, Miguel García, editor Helen Weldon. Elfer and expert coordinator Anthony Ham. Thanks to my family for their support and Cover photograph: Wadi Rum and Jebel to José Eliseo Vázquez González, Michael ­Qatar, Jordan; Michele Falzone/AWL.

Destination Editor James, Anne Mulvaney, THIS BOOK Helen Elfer ­Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin This 8th edition of Lonely Plan- Product Editor Assisting Cartographers et’s Middle East guidebook Katie O’Connell Corey Hutchison was researched and written by Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher coordinating author Anthony Valentina Kremenchutskaya Naomi Parker Ham, and Sofia Barbarani, Book Designer Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Jessica Lee, Virginia Maxwell, Jennifer Mullins Angie Mills-Smith, Ilana Myers, Daniel Robinson, Anthony Assisting Editors Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Sattin, Andy Symington and Denis O’Connor, Ellie Simpson, Jenny Walker. Kate Chapman, Samantha Forge, Gabrielle Innes, Kate Lauren Wellicome, Kristina West ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 597

Index

ABBREVIATIONS Lebanon 373 travel to/from 305-6 Petra (J) 11, 327-37, E Egypt Turkey 433, 497 travel within 306 328-9­ , 330-1, 332, In Ajloun (J) 310-11 (T) 483 10-11, 328-9 Iq Iraq Akko (Acre; IPT) 246-8, 247 animals 25, 281, 557-9 Pyramids of Giza 11, ­58-64, 58, 60-1, 11, IPT and the Alamut Valley (In) 154-6 (T) 470-2 60-1 ­Palestinian Territories (T) 468-9 Antakya (T) 469-70 Roman Amphitheatre J Jordan Al-Bireh (IPT) 264-6 Antalya (T) 464-7, 465 Alexandria (E) 77 L Lebanon alcohol 135, 145, 265, 400, Antep, see Unfinished Obelisk Aswan 534, 546, see also S Anzac Cove (T) 442 (E) 99 drinks, wine T Turkey Aqaba (J) 339-44, 340 Valley of the Kings (E) 88 Alexander the Great 505 Arab Spring, the 500, Western Wall Tunnels Alexandria (E) 76-82, 78, 80 529-31 (IPT) 219 A accommodation 77-9 Aanjar (L) 390-1 Arabian oryx 558 architecture 179, 235, 537-41 drinking & nightlife 80-1 Abbas, Mahmoud 274, 278 Arabic language 586-8 520 food 79-80 Abraham 535 Arafat, Yasser 264, 276-7, arts & crafts 72 history 76 278, 524, 529 Abu Simbel (E) 103-4 Ashura 29 information 81 Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh accommodation 568, see Aswan (E) 97-102, 98, 100 orientation 81 (In) 165, 33 also individual locations accommodation 99-101 travel to/from 81-2 archaeological sites 40, see language 587, 588, 590, food 101 travel within 82 also ruins 591 information 101-3 Al-Haram ash-Sharif (Temple­ Aanjar (L) 390-1 Acre, see Akko sights 98-9 Mount; IPT) 12, 218, Abu Simbel (E) 103-4 activities 26-9, 40-4, see travel to/from 101-2 ­220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1 Alamut Castle (In) 155 also individual activities Aswan High Dam (E) 103 Al-Kharga Oasis (E) 104-5 Al-Bass Archaeological Aegean Coast (T) 439-56, Atatürk, Mustafa Kemal Al-Maghtas, see Bethany-­ Site (L) 386-7 439 492-3, 518, 519 Beyond-the-Jordan Al-Mina Archaeological Agilika Island (E) 102-3 ATMs 570 Al-Qaeda 205, 501, 528 Site (L) 385-6 air travel 574, 576 Avanos (T) 477 Al-Quseir (E) 115-16 Ancient Bathhouse Egypt 136 Nazareth (IPT) 248 Aya Sofya (T) 416, 424-5, Amman (J) 294-306, 296, Iran 183-4 424-5, 424-5 298-9, 302 Baalbek Ruins (L) 390 Iraq 208 Ayvalık (T) 442-3 accommodation 297-9 Byblos (L) 376-7 Israel and the Palestinian Azaris 152 children, travel with 304 Capernaum 253 Territories 287-8, 289 Azraq (J) 317-19 drinking & nightlife 303 Catacombs of Kom Jordan 353, 354 ­ash-Suqqafa (E) 77 emergency services 304 Lebanon 403 City of David (IPT) 219 entertainment 304 B Turkey 497 Jerusalem Archaeological food 299-301 Baalbek (L) 390 airports 21, 574 Park & Davidson Centre Egypt 74-5, 136 history 294-5 (IPT) 219 Babylonian Empire 202 Iran 149 internet access 304 Kursi National Park (IPT) Baghdad (Iq) 512 Iraq 194, 201 media 305 253 Bahariya Oasis (E) 107-8 Israel and the Palestinian medical services 305 Madaba Archaeological ballooning 14, 40, 476, 14 Territories 231, 240, 287 money 305 Park I (J) 320 bargaining 133, 182 Jordan 306, 353 postal services 305 Magdala (IPT) 252 Batroun (L) 378-9 shopping 304 Masada (IPT) 259-60 Bauhaus architecture 235 sights 295-7 Memphis, Saqqara & bazaars, see markets Dahshur (E) 76 Map Pages 000 telephone services 305 Bazar-e Bozorg (In) 156 Necropolis of Al-Bagawat Photo Pages tourist information 305 Bcharré (L) 381-2 000 (E) 104 598 beaches 25, 46 biblical sites & landmarks,­ medical services 72 Salahaddin’s Fortress Amman Beach (J) 314 see ­religious sites money 72 (Iq) 195 Aqaba (J) 341-2 bicycle travel 41, 576-7 orientation 72 Shobak Castle (J) 326 Dahab (E) 120-1 Egypt 136 shopping 71-2 Uçhisar Castle (T) 477 Eilat (IPT) 261-2 Israel and the Palestinian tourist information 72 Van Castle (T) 484 Ein Bokek (IPT) 260 Territories 253, 283, tours 64 cathedrals, see churches &

INDEX INDEX 289, 290 Ein Gedi Beach (IPT) travel agencies 72-3 cathedrals Jordan 354 258-9 travel to/from 73-4 Çavasın (T) 477 Lebanon 404 Hurghada (E) 113 travel within 74-5 caves 196, 270, 313, 331, birds 281, 557-8 374, 381, 476 B- Liman Ağzı (T) 462 walking tours 65 

C Black Sea, the 479-84 cedar trees 400  Nuweiba (E) 126-7 call to prayer 534 Blue Mosque (T) 417, , Cedars, the (L) 382-3 Olympos & Çıralı (T) 463 7 15 camel rides 337 boat travel 44, 575-6, 577, cell phones 573 Patara (T) 460 camping 117, 250, 253, see also felucca travel Chak Chak (In) 166 Red Sea (E) 116, 25 282, 568 Egypt 136 checkpoints, see Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo; IPT) Çanakkale (T) 439-40 Jordan 354 ­border crossings & 234, 17 canyoning 40, 316, 321 Lebanon 404 ­checkpoints Bedouin people 346 Cappadocia (T) 14, 474-9, Turkey 429, 459, 497 children, travel with beer 265 475, 4, 14, 42 45-6, 584-5, see also Bodrum (T) 454-7, 455 Beirut (L) 15, 359-73, 360, car & motorcycle travel individual­ countries books 345, 412, 500, 551-3 362, 364, 15 564, 577-8 Chouf Mountains (L) 387-9 border crossings & check- accommodation 366-7 Egypt 137 Christianity 279, 536 points 38-9, 575 children, travel with 366 Iran 184 Christmas 26, 29 Egypt 136 dangers & annoyances Israel and the Palestinian churches & cathedrals Iran 184 372 Territories 289-90 540-1, see also drinking & nightlife Iraq 208-9 Jordan 355 ­monasteries, religious 369-71 Israel and the Palestinian Lebanon 404 sites emergency services 372 Territories 268, 288 Turkey 498 Akdamar Kilisesi (T) 485 entertainment 371 Jordan 353-4 carpets 139, 148, 160, 174, Basilica of St John (T) festivals & events 366 Lebanon 404 175, 179 448-9 food 367-9 Turkey 497 castles & fortresses 23, see Basilica of the history 359 Brummana (L) 373-4 also palaces ­Annunciation (IP) 248 internet access 372 (T) 437-9 Ajloun Castle (J) 310 Church of All Nations (IPT) 223 media 372 Bush, George H W 204, 529 Alanya Castle (T) 468 Bush, George W 204 Aqaba Fort (J) 339 Church of Mary medical services 372 ­Magdalene (IPT) 224 bus travel 577, 579 Castle of Herod the money 372 Church of St John the Egypt 137 Great (J) 323 postal services 372 Baptist (L) 377 Israel and the Palestinian Castle of St Peter (T) safe travel 372 Church of St Sergius and Territories 289 454 shopping 371 Bacchus (E) 54 Iran 183, 184 Citadel of Raymond de sights & activities 359-66 Saint-Gilles (L) 380 Church of the Apostles Jordan 354-5, 356 tourist information 372 Crusader Gallery & (J) 320 Lebanon 404, 404-5 travel to/from 372 ­Crusader’s Gate Church of the Ascension Turkey 497-8 travel within 373 (J) 324 (IPT) 219-23 business hours 21, see also Beit Ad-Din, see Beiteddine Diyarbakır City Walls & Church of the Holy individual countries Palace Gates (T) 485 ­Sepulchre (IPT) Byblos (L) 375-8, 214-15 Beit Mery 373-4 376 Eastern Desert (J) 317 492­ -8, Church of the Nativity Beit She’an (IPT) 254-5 Herodium (IPT) 270-1 508 (IPT) 268 Beiteddine Palace (L) 14, Izmir (T) 444 El Nazar Kilise (T) 475 387-9, 14 Kale Gaziantep (T) 490 Ethiopian Monastery Bekaa Valley 390-1 C Khanzad Castle (Iq) (IPT) 216 Caesarea (IPT) 241 194-5 belly dancing 71 Greek Orthodox Church (T) 443-4 Cairo (E) 51-75, 56-7, 62-3, Marmaris Castle (T) 457 of the Annunciation Bethany-Beyond-the-­ 66-7, 70-1, 23 Nimrod Fortress (IPT) (IPT) 248 Jordan (J) 313-14 accommodation 64-7 254 Hanging Church (E) 54 Bethlehem (IPT) 18, drinking & nightlife 69 Qala’At Ar-Rabad (J) 310 Lutheran Christmas ­267-70, 18 emergency services 72 Qasr Kharana (J) 319 Church (IPT) 268 entertainment 69-71 Qasr al-Azraq (J) 318 Maronite Cathedral of St etiquette 68 Qasr al-Hallabat Fort George (L) 363 Map Pages 000 food 67-9 (J) 316 Milk Grotto Chapel Photo Pages 000 history 51 Qusayr Amra (J) 319 (IPT) 269 599 Moses Memorial Church deserts 22, 41, 556 money 133 bread 542-3 (J) 322 Black Desert 105 music 131 desserts 545 Mount of the Beatitudes Negev Desert 260-4 opening hours 133 etiquette 562 (IPT) 252 Wadi Rum 12, 337-9, 13 politics 128, 500 language 587, 588-9, St Anne’s Church (IPT) White Desert 105 population 51, 130 590, 592 216 Didyma (T) 453 public holidays 133-4 meat 544-5

St Catherine’s Church rice 545 INDEX (IPT) 268 diphtheria 582 religion 130 salads 543 St George Greek disabilities, travellers safety 134, 565 Orthodox Cathedral with 573 shopping 134 street foods 543-4 -L) 363 Egypt 134 telephone services vegetarian & vegan  C) St George’s Church Israel and the Palestinian 51, 134 travellers 544, 545  H (J) 320 Territories 286 tourist information 134 fortresses, see castles & St James’ (Jacques’) Jordan 352 travel to/from 136 fortresses Cathedral (IPT) 217 discount cards 569 travel within 136-7 fossils 378 St Mary’s Syrian diving & snorkelling 24, visas 51, 134-5 fuel 577-8 ­Orthodox Church 40, 41-3 weather 50 (IPT) 268 Egypt 113, 115, 117, websites 51 St Peter’s Church (IPT) 122, 127 G weights & measures 135 Gadara, see Umm Qais 235 Israel and the Palestinian Egyptian Museum 54 Gali Ali Beg (Iq) 195-7 Tabgha (IPT) 252 Territories 261 Eid al-Adha 28, 572 Virgin Mary Church Jordan 340-1 Galilee (IPT) 248, 255-8, Eid al-Fitr 27, 572 249, 256 (J) 320 Turkey 462 galleries, see museums & cinema, see film Diyarbakır (T) 485-6 Eilat (IPT) 261-4, 261, 262 galleries Çıralı (T) 463-4 Doğubayazıt (T) 483-4 Ein Bokek (IPT) 260 (Gelıbolu) climate 20, 26-9, see also Ein Gedi (IPT) 258-9 Dome of the Rock 12, 218, ­Peninsula (T) 441-2, individual locations El Alamein (E) 77 220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1 441 coffee 546 drinks 546-7, see also electricity, see individual countries gay travellers, see LGBT coffeehouses 547 alcohol, wine travellers embassies & consulates Constantine 492 driving licences 577 Gaza Strip, the (IPT) 273 consulates, see embassies 569, see also individual Dukan (Iq) 197 Gaziantep (T) 489-91, 490 & consulates countries Gazor Khan 155-6 courses emergencies, see individual­ locations Gelıbolu, see Gallipoli cooking 333-4, 423, 475 E Easter 26, 548 En Boqeq, see Ein Bokek Peninsula diving & snorkelling 41 Eceabat (Maydos; T) 441 environmental issues Giza (E) 58-64, 58, 60-1, Kabbalah 256 economy 501 556-60 60-1 language 402 Edfu 97 Ephesus (T) 446-7, 450, Golan Heights (IPT) 255-8, credit cards 570 (T) 437 446-7, 448, 446-7 256 Crusades, the 511-12 Efes, see Ephesus Erbil (Iq) 188-94, 190, 19 Göreme (T) 474-6 currency 20, see also Grand Bazaar İstanbul (T) Egypt 47, 50-137, 52-3 (T) 480-2, 481 money, individual 416-7 countries accommodation 131 Esfahan (In) 12, 156-61, 158, 12, 23 Grand Bazaar Tabriz (In) current affairs 500-1 border crossings 136 Esna (E) 97 18, 151, 18 customs regulations 568-9 business hours 133 etiquette 562-3, 571 Gulf War (1991) 204-5, 528 children, travel with cycling, see bicycle travel Güvercinlik Valley (T) 477 45, 131 events 26-9 cinema 130 D currency 51 F H Dahab (E) 120-3, Hagia Sofia, see Aya Sofya 121 discount cards 131 Farafra Oasis (E) 106-7 Dahshur (E) 76 Haifa (IPT) 241-6, electricity 135 Farsi language 588-94 242-3 Dakhla Oasis (E) 106 HaKinneret (IPT) 248, embassies & consulates felucca travel 13, 89, 99, dangers & annoyances, see 132 102, 13. see also boat 252-3, 249 safety, theft exchange rates 51 travel Hamas 274-3, 277, 278, 531 Darband (In) 144 food & drink 131, 132-3 ferry travel, see boat travel Hamilton Road (Iq) 195-7 Dead Sea 16, 258-60, festivals 26-9, 549 hammams 24, 272, 380, highlights 52-3, 52-3 313-16, 560, 16 Fethiye (T) 458-9 423, 472 history 128-30 Dead Sea Scrolls 226, 259 film 27, 29, 500, 549-51, Hanukkah 29 itineraries 30, 35, 75, Deir Al-Qamar (L) 389 Hariri, Rafiq 395 30, 35 Iran 180 Dendara (E) 96-7 (T) 488 language 133, 586-8 Lebanon 397 Derinkuyu (T) 477 Hatay, see Antakya literature 130 fish 558-9 Desert Castles (J) 317, 318 health 581-5 media 135 food 542-8, see also desertification 560 individual locations heat exhaustion 583 600 Hebrew language 589-91 internet access 570 safety 565 telephone codes 213 hepatitis A 582 Iran 47, 138-85, 140-1 telephone codes 188 telephone services 286 hepatitis B 582 accommodation 138, 180 telephone services 208 theatre 280 Hezbollah 277, 385, 394, 531 business hours 182 travel to/from 208-9 travel to/from 287-9 hiking 24, 40, 43 currency 139 visas 208 travel within 289-90 Israel and the Palestinian economy 177 weather 186 visas 213, 286 INDEX INDEX Territories 283 embassies & consulates websites 208 weather 210 Iran 155 180-1 weights & measures 207 websites 213 Jordan 316, 325, 333, emergencies 139 Iraq War (1991) 204-5, 528 weights & measures 284

H- 337, 349 etiquette 183 Iraq War (2003) 187, 195, Israeli passport stamps 

J Lebanon 389, 401 exchange rates 139 527, 531 404  Turkey 460 food 138, 175 Iraqi Kurdistan, İstanbul (T) 15, 416-36, history 6, 502-31, see also food & drink 178-9 see Kurdistan 420-1, 426-7, 430-1, individual countries health 181 Irbid (J) 311-12 434-5, 15 1948 Arab-Israeli War highlights 140-1, IS, see Isis accommodation 423-9 276, 522 140-1 history 177-8 Isis 187-8, 202, 409, cooking courses 423 1967 Six Day War (IPT) 501, 531 insurance 181 dangers & annoyances 213, 276, 522, 525 279, 532-4, 538­ -41, 433 internet access 181 1979 Islamic Revolution 572 drinking & nightlife (In) 178, 526 itineraries 32, 32 Islamic holidays 572 432-3 1991 Iraq War 204-5, 528 language 139 Islamic Revolution (In) emergency services 433 2003 Iraq War 187, 195, legal matters 181 178, 526 food 429-32 527, 531 money 139, 181-2 Islamic State, see Isis medical services 433 Arab Spring, the 500, opening hours 182 Israel and the Palestinian money 433 529-31 politics 176-7, 501 Territories 48, 210­ -90, postal services 433 Babylonian Empire 202 population 139 211 sights 416-23 Byzantine Empire 492­ -8, postal services 182 accommodation 282-3 508 tourist information 433 safety 565 business hours 285 Iran-Iraq War 203 tours 423 sights 139-44 children, travel with Lebanese Civil War travel to/from 433 shopping 179 45, 283 393, 527 travel within 436 telephone services 182 cinema 280 Ottoman Empire 302, itineraries 30-5, , climate 210 30-5 492, 512-17 time 139 see also individual culture 281 Phoenician Empire 503 travel to/from 183 countries currency 213 Sumerian history 202, travel within 183-5 İzmır (T) 444-5 502-3 visas 139, 182 customs regulations 283 Iran-Iraq War 203 dance 280 WWI 517, 518 J WWII 520 Iraq 47, 186-209, 187 embassies & consulates 283-4 Jaffa, see Tel Aviv-Jaffa hitching 578-9 accommodation 206 environment 281-92 Jaffa Gate (IPT) 217 Iran 184 budgeting 207 exchange rates 213 Jbail, see Byblos Israel and the Palestinian business hours 207 Jenin (IPT) 272-3 Territories 289 food 237, 280-1, 285 climate 186 Jerash (J) 19, 307-10, Jordan 355 government 278 currency 188 308, 19 highlights 211, 211 holidays 572 electricity 207 Jericho (IPT) 266-7 history 274-7, 518-21, 522 hookah, see sheesha embassies & consulates Jerusalem (IPT) 212­ -31, internet access 284 horse riding 43, 89, 337 207 214-15, 222-3, 224, itineraries 31, 212, hot-air ballooning, see exchange rates 188 31 28 ballooning food 207 language 213, 281 accommodation 226-8 Hurghada (E) 112-14 highlights 187, 187 literature 279 drinking & nightlife 229 Hussein, Saddam 187, history 187-8, 193, 202-5 media 284 entertainment 229-31 199, 203-5, 522, 526, internet access 207 mobile phones 213, 286 food 228-9 527, 528 itineraries 34, 34 money 213, 284-5 history 212-13 language 188, 206 music 280 medical services 230-1 I media 207 opening hours 285 safe travel 230 Ihlara Valley (T) 477 money 207 peace process 501 sights 213-26 insurance 570, 578, 581 opening hours 207 politics 273-4, 278, 501 tourist information 230 politics 187-8, 202, 500-1 population 213, 277-8 tours 226 population 188, 205-9 public & religious travel to/from 230-1 holidays 285 Map Pages 000 public holidays 207 travel within 231 religion 278-9 Photo Pages 000 religion 205 websites 227 safety 565 601 Jesus of Nazareth 252, Kalkan (T) 461 itineraries 34, 34 Grand Bazaar İstanbul 274-5, 279, 508, 536, Kandovan (In) 153 language 359 (T) 416-17 see also religious sites Kapadokya (T), literature 397-8 Grand Bazaar Tabriz (In) Jewish history 226 see Cappadocia media 402 18, 151, 18 Jewish religion, Karak (J) 324-5 money 402 Khan al-Khalili (E) 58, 23 see Judaism Kars (T) 482-3 music 398 Mahane Yehuda Market

Jewish settlements 266 (IPT) 225 INDEX Kaş (T) 461-3 opening hours 402 Jordan 48, 291-356, Qaysari Bazaar (Iq) 191 292-3 kayaking 40, 44, 257, 461-2 politics 391, 501 accommodation 348, Spice Bazaar İstanbul Kaymaklı (T) 477 population 359, 396, 349 (T) 421 -Kayseri (T) 478-9 396-7  J

activities 349 Sulaymaniyah Grand  M Khan al-Khalili (E) 58, 23 public holidays 402 arts & crafts 347 Bazaar (Iq) 199-200 Khan, Genghis 177, 510 religion 397 books 345 Tehran Bazar (Ir) 139 Kharanaq (In) 166 safety 565 business hours 350 Tel Aviv Flea Market Khomeini, Āyatollāh telephone services 403 children, travel with (IPT) 235 Ruhollāh 526 travel to/from 403-4 45, 349 Tripoli souqs (L) 380 kibbutzim 283, 286-7 travel within 404-5 currency 294 Marmaris (T) 457-8 King Abdullah 346 visas 403 customs regulations 349 Marsa Alam (E) 116-17 King Hussein of Jordan 527 visual arts 398-9 embassies & consulates Masada (IPT) 259-60 King’s Highway 319-27 weather 357 349 Mashhad (Iq) 172-6, 173 Kom Ombo (E) 97 websites 403 environment 348 Masjed-e Jameh (In) 156, (T) 473-4 exchange rates 294 weights & measures 402 162, 2, 23 Koran, the 533 food & drink 347-8, 349 women travellers 403 Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah­ Kurdish people, the 530 lesbian travellers, see LGBT highlights 292-3, 292-3 (In) 156, 12 travellers history 344-6 Kurdistan region 188-201, media, see individual 189 LGBT travellers 569-70 internet access 350 countries Kuşadası (T) 452-3 Egypt 133 itineraries 30, 31, 295, memorials 226, 385 Iran 181 30, 31 Memphis (E) 76 Israel and the Palestinian language 294 Mesopotamia 202, 502 L Territories 284 media 350 Lailat al-Mi’raj 572 Meybod (In) 166 Jordan 349-50 money 294, 350 Lalish (Iq) 196 mezze 399, 494, 542, 543 Lebanon 402 opening hours 350 landmines 286 Miletus (T) 453 Turkey 495 photography 351 landscape 556-60 Mitzpe Ramon (IPT) 260-1 life expectancy 501 politics 344, 501 language 20, 586-94 Mo’allem Kalayeh (In) 155 literacy rates 501 population 294, 346-7 Arabic 586-8 mobile phones 20, 573, literature 500, 551-3 see also individual postal services 351 courses 402 Luxor (E) 16, 82-96, 84-5, countries public holidays 351 Farsi 588-9 86-7, 90-1, 16, 84-5 Mohammed 12, 218, 275, religion 347 Hebrew 589-91 accommodation 91-3 279, 508, 510, 532-4 safety 565 Turkish 591-2 dangers & annoyances 95 monasteries, see also telephone code 294 Lawrence of Arabia 337 drinking & nightlife 94-5 churches & cathedrals telephone services Lebanese Civil War 393, food 93-4 Deir el-Qalaa (L) 373 294, 351 527 medical services 95 Mar Saba Monastery time 351 Lebanon 48, 357-405, 358 (IPT) 271 money 95 toilets 351 accommodation 357, Monastery of St Simeon shopping 95 tourist information 351 400-1 (E) 99 tourist informatin 95 tours 305 activities 401 Monastery of the tours 90-1 travel to/from 353-4 architecture 398 ­Qurantul (IPT) 267 travel to/from 95-6 travel within 354-6 business hours 402 Qadisha Valley 382 travel within 96 visas 352 cinema & TV 398 Rabban Beya Monastery weather 291 climate 357 (Iq) 195 websites 294 currency 359 M St George’s Monastery Machaerus (Mukawir; J) 323 (IPT) 266 weights & measures 350 electricity 402 Madaba (J) 319-22 St Katherine’s Monastery­ Jordan River 314 embassies & consulates 401 malaria 582 (E) 18, 123-6, 124-5, Jounieh (L) 375 , environment 400 (T) 486-7 18 124-5 Judaism 278-9, 534-6, 547-8 exchange rates 359 marine life 558-9 (T) 479 food 357, 388, 399-400, markets 22-3 money 20, 569, 570-1, see K 401 Akko Souq (IPT) 246 kababs 175 also bargaining, tipping, highlights 358, 358 Bazar-e Vakil (In) 165 individual countries Kabbalah 256 history 391-6 Carmel Market (IPT) 234 602 Morsi, Mohammed 530 Sultanahmet Camii (T) Dar As Saraya Museum Museum of Archaeology Moses 126, 274, 322, 535 417, 7, 15 (J) 311 & Anthropology (J) 311 22, 538-41, see Taynal Mosque (L) 380 Darat al-Funun (J) 295 Museum of Innocence also religious sites Tripoli Great Mosque Ebrat Museum (Ir) 143 (T) 422 72-Martyrs (Shah) (L) 380 Edessa Mosaic Museum Museum of Seljuk Mosque (In) 174 (Erzorum; T) (T) 487 Civilisation (T) 478

INDEX INDEX Al-Azhar Mosque (E) 482, 485 Edirne Archaeology & Museum of the History 55-7 Ulu Camii (Bursa; T) 438 Ethnography Museum of Jerusalem 217 (IPT) Al-Husseiny Mosque Yeşil Camii (T) 438 (T) 437 Museum of Turkish & (J) 296 Egyptian Museum (E) Islamic Arts (T) 417

M- motorcycle travel, see car  Al-Kebir Mosque (IPT) & motorcycle travel 51-4 Museum of Wooden M Artefacts and Stone  271 Mount of Remembrance Emine Göğüş Culinary Carving (T) 473 Al-Muallaq Mosque (IPT) 226 Museum (T) 490 Museum on the Seam (L) 380 mountain biking, see Ephesus Museum (T) (IPT) 225 Al-Omari Mosque (L) 365 bicycle travel 445 National Museum of Aya Sofya (; mountains 556 Eretz Israel Museum (IPT) 235 Beirut (L) 361 T) 479 Goyje Mountain (Iq) 199 Ethnography Museum National Museum of Iran Blue Mosque (T) 417, Mount of Remembrance Izmir (T) 444 (In) 142-3 7, 15 (IPT) 226 Fethiye Museum (T) 458 Nubia Museum (E) 98 Ibrahimi Mosque (IPT) Mt Ararat (T) 484 Gaziantep Defence and Old Bethlehem Museum 270 Mt Gerizim (IPT) 272 Heroism Panoramic (IPT) 269 Jalil Khayat Mosque Mt Nebo (J) 322-3 (Iq) 191 Museum (T) 490 Reza Abbasi Museum Mt Nemrut (T) 489, 33 (In) 144 Kabud Mosque (In) 151 Gaziantep Mt Sinai (E) 18, 126, ­Mosaic Museum Robert Mouawad Private Kasımiye Medresesi 18 (T) 489 Museum (L) 361-3 (T) 487 Mubarak, Hosni 500 Gibran Museum (L) 381 Rockefeller Museum King Abdullah Mosque museums & galleries (IPT) 225 (J) 296 Alexandria National Göreme Open-Air Museum (T) 475 Sakıp Sabancı Mardin Masjed-e Jameh (In) 156, Museum (E) 76-7 City Museum (T) 486 162, 2, 23 American University Güpgüpoğlu Konağı (T) 478 Samaritan Museum Masjed-e Nasir-al-Molk of Beirut (AUB) (IPT) 272 (In) 166 ­archaeological Hatay Archaeology museum (L) 365 Museum (T) 469 Sardam Gallery (Iq) 200 Masjed-e Shah (In) 156 Amna Suraka (Red Hecht Museum (IPT) 241 Shrine of the Beheading Masjed-e Sheikh Security; Iq) 199 Hezbollah resistance of John the Baptist ­Lotfollah (In) 156, 12 Animalia (E) 97 monument (L) 385 (Latin Church; J) 320 Masjed-e Vakil (In) 166 Antalya Museum (T) 464 Israel Museum (IPT) 226 Slemani Museum (Iq) Masjid Jenin al-Kabir 199 (IPT) 273 Anthropology Museum İstanbul Archaeology (Ir) 174 Museums (T) 417 Suna & İnan Kıraç Kaleiçi Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri Museum (T) 464 (E) 57-8 Aramgah-e Shah-e İstanbul Modern (T) 422 Cheragh (Ir) 165, 33 Jordan Museum (J) 297 Sursock Museum (L) 365 Mohammed al-Amin Syriac Heritage Museum Mosque (L) 363 Aya Sofya (İstanbul; T) Jordan National Gallery 416, 424-5, , (Iq) 191 Mosque of Ibn Tulun 424-5 of Fine Arts (J) 296-7 424-5 Karak Islamic Museum Tehran Museum of (E) 58 ­Contemporary Art 144 Mulla Afandi Mosque & Aya Sofya Museum (J) 324 (Trabzon) (T) 479 Kaymakamlar Müze Evi Tel Aviv Museum of Art Citadel Bath (Iq) 191 (IPT) 231 Rüstem Paşa Mosque Azarbayjan Museum (T) 472 (In) 151 Kurdish Textile Museum Tikotin Museum of (T) 422 ­Japanese Art (IPT) 241 Selimiye Mosque (T) 437 Bauhaus Center (IPT) (Iq) 191 235 Tile Museum (T) 473 Sulaymaniyah Grand Luxor Museum (E) 88 Beit Hatfutsot (IPT) 235 Madaba Museum (J) 320 Treasury of National Mosque (Iq) 200 Jewels (In) 143 Bible Lands Museum Marmaris Museum Süleymaniye Mosque Yad Vashem (IPT) 226 (T) 417 (IPT) 226 (T) 457 Bibliotheca Alexandrina Mevlâna Museum (T) Yakutiye Medrese (T) Sultan İsa (Zinciriye) 481 Medresesi (T) 487 (E) 76 473 Carter’s House & the Mit Rahina Museum Zelve Open-Air Museum Sultan Murat II (T) 477 ­(Muradiye) Camii Replica Tomb of (E) 76 (T) 438 Tutankhamun (E) 89 Museum and Archives of music 27, 29, 553-5, Cheops Boat Museum 59 Education (Iq) 191 see also individual countries Clandestine Immigration Museum of Anatolian & Naval Museum Muslim Brotherhood Map Pages Civilisations (T) 470 000 (IPT) 242 500, 530 Photo Pages 000 Museum of Antiquities Coptic Museum 54 (E) 104 603 N Bahariya Oasis (E) 107-8 Passover 26 R Nablus (IPT) 271-2 Dakhla Oasis (E) 106 passports 574 rabies 583 Naqsh-e Rostam (In) 172 Ein Gedi (IPT) 258-9 Israeli passport stamps Rabin, Yitzhak 277, 527, 529 nargileh, see sheesha Farafra Oasis (E) 106-7 36-9, 404 rafting 257 Nasser, Gamal Abdel Siwa Oasis (E) 108-10 Pergamum (T) 443-4 Ramadan 27, 547, 572 523, 524 Western Oases (E) Persepolis 15, 170-2, Ramallah (IPT) 18, 264-6 national parks & nature 104-10 171, 15 Red Sea Coast (E) 112- INDEX reserves 558 Ölüdeniz (T) 460 Petra (J) 11, 327-37, 328-9, 16, 25 Ajloun Forest Reserve Olympos (T) 463-4 330-1, 332, 10-11, refugees 344, 391, 392,

-J) 311 opening hours 21, see also 328-9 492, 529-31  N)

Azraq Wetland Reserve individual countries accommodation 333-5 religion 532-6, 562-3,  R (J) 318 Ottoman Empire 302, 492, drinking & nightlife see also individual Banias Nature Reserve 512-17 335-6 religions, Jesus of (IPT) 254 food 335 Nazareth, Mohammad, Caesarea National Park history 327-30 Moses, ­religious sites P (IPT) 241 itineraries 334 religious sites 24, see also palaces, see also castles & churches & cathedrals, Coral Beach Nature night tours 335 Reserve (IPT) 261 fortresses mosques, synagogues orientation 336 Dana Biosphere Reserve Beiteddine Palace (L) Al-Haram ash-Sharif shopping 336 (J) 325-6 387-9, 14 (Temple Mount; IPT) tickets 327 Ein Gedi Nature Reserve Dolmabahçe Palace 12, 218, 220-1, 220-1, (IPT) 258 (T) 422 tourist information 336-7 12, 220-1 Gallipoli Historical İshak Paşa Palace (T) travel to/from 336-7 Baptism Site of Jesus National Park 441 483 travel within 336 Christ (J) 313-4 Hamat Tveriya National Mamluk Palace and Philae (E) 102-3 Basilica of the Mosque (J) 324 Park (IPT) 250 Phoenician Empire 503 ­Annunciation (IPT) Topkapı Palace (T) 248 Hula Nature Reserve photography 571-2 416, 418-19, 418-19, Bethlehem Old City (IPT) 254 Pigeon Valley (T) 477 418-19 (IPT) 268 Kursi National Park planning 20-1 (IPT) 253 Palestine Liberation Capernaum (IPT) 253 activities 26-9, 40-4 Makhtesh Ramon Nature ­Organization (PLO) Church of Mary calendar of events 26-9 Reserve (IPT) 260 276, 524 ­Magdalene (IPT) 224 children, travel with 45-6 Mujib Biosphere Reserve Palestinian Territories, Church of the Ascension (J) 316 see Israel and the countries 47-8 (IPT) 219-23 ­Palestinian Territories Nemrut Dağı Milli Parkı itineraries 30-5, 30-5 Church of the Holy (T) 489 Pamukkale (T) 453-4 weather 20, 26-9 Sepulchre (IPT) 214 Ras Mohammed National paragliding 44, 460 websites 21 Church of the Nativity Park (E) 117 parks & gardens 154 poetry 179-85, 551-2 (IPT) 268 Shaumari Wildlife Aswan Botanical pollution 560 Dome of the Rock 12, ­Gardens (E) 99 Reserve (J) 318 Port Said (E) 110-11 218, 220-1, 220-1, 12, Bagh-e Dolat Abad 220-1 Shouf Biosphere Reserve postal services, see (In) 162 (L) 389-90 individual­ countries Garden of Gethsemane Bagh-e Eram (In) 166 (IPT) 223 Tel Dan Nature Reserve prayer 534 (IPT) 254 Baha’i Gardens (IPT) 241 Greek Orthodox Church press freedom 176 Travertines (T) 453 Centre International of the Annunciation (T) 453 Uludağ National Park (T) Marie de Nazareth (IPT) 248 Prophet Mohammed 12, 437, (IPT) 248 Hebron (Al-Khalil) & the 42 218, 275, 279, 508, 510, Garden of Gethsemane Tomb of the Patriarchs Nazareth (IPT) 248-50 532-4 (IPT) 223 (IPT) 270 Negev Desert (IPT) 260-4 Prophet’s Birthday 29, 572 Garden Tomb (IPT) 225 Jacob’s Well (IPT) 271-2 Nemrut Dağı (T) 489, 4, 33 Purim 26 Güllüdere Valley (T) 475 King David’s Tomb Netanyahu, Binyamin 274, Pyramids of Giza (E) 11, (IPT) 218 278, 529 HaPisgah Gardens (IPT) 235 58-64, 58, 60-1, 11, Kursi National Park Nevruz 26 60-1 Martyr Sami (IPT) 253 Nile River 13, 13, see also ­Abdul-­Rahman Park Manger Square (IPT) felucca travel 268 (Iq) 191-2 Q Nile Valley (E) 82-104 Mount of Olives (IPT) Park (Iq) 191 Qadisha Valley (L) 381-2 Nuweiba (E) 126-8 219-24 Shanadar Park (Iq) qanats 161 191, 19 Mount of Temptation Qazvin (In) 153-4 & Monastery of the O Sulaymaniyah (Iq) 200 Qumran (IPT) 259 oases 22 Qurantul (IPT) 267 Paşabağı (T) 477 Quran, the 533 Al-Kharga Oasis (E) 104-5 Mount of the Beatitudes Pasargadae (In) 172 (IPT) 252 604 religious sites continued Perge (T) 467 Haram-e Razavi (In) Tafila (J) 325 Mt Nebo (J) 322-3 Persepolis 15, 170-2, 172-4 taxis 579-80 Mt Sinai (E) 126 171, 15 Side (T) 467-8 Egypt 137 Nabi Musa (IPT) 266 Red Hall (T) 443 Sidon (L) 383-4 Iran 185 Pool of Bethesda (IPT) Roman Theatre Side Silk Road, the 519 Iraq 209 216 (T) 468 Sinai (E) 116-28, 128, 118-19 Israel and the Palestinian

INDEX INDEX Room of the Last Supper Tel al-Sultan (Ancient Siwa Oasis (E) 108-10 Territories 290 (IPT) 217 Jericho; IPT) 266 Six Day War 213, 276, Jordan 355, 356 Sea of Galilee (IPT) 252-3 Tell Elias (J) 314 522, 525 Lebanon 404-5

R- Shrine of the Beheading Temple of Artemis skiing 40, 44 Taybeh (IPT) 265 

T (T) 449  of John the Baptist Iran 148 tea 546 (Latin Church; J) 320 Temples of Apollo & Lebanon 382-3 Tehran (In) 139-49, 142-3, Site of Jesus’ Baptism Athena (T) 468 Turkey 437, 42 146-7 (J) 313-4 Umm al-Jimal Ruins smoking accommodation 144-5 Taybeh (IPT) 265 (J) 319 Egypt 135 drinking & nightlife 147-8 Tell Elias (J) 314 Umm Qais (J) 312 Israel and the Palestinian food 145-7 Temple Mount (Al-Haram Rumi 180 Territories 284 ash-Sharif; IPT) 12, information 148 218, 220-1, 220-1, 12, Jordan 350 orientation 148 S Turkey 496 220-1 Sadat, Anwar 523, 526 shopping 148 snorkelling, see diving & Tomb of the Virgin Mary safaris 40, 41 sights 139-44 (IPT) 224 snorkelling Safed, see Tsfat travel to/from 148-9 Tree of Zacchaeus (IPT) souqs, see markets safety 564 travel within 149 266 Sour, see Tyre Egypt 134, 135, 565 Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo; IPT) Via Dolorosa (Stations of Sphinx (E) 64 17, 231-41, , Iran 164, 180 232-3 236, the Cross; IPT) 216 spas 315 238, 17 Iraq 206 Western Wall (IPT) 219 St Katherine’s Monastery accommodation 236-7 Israel and the Palestinian rivers 556-7 (E) 18, 123-6, 124-5, activities 235-6 Territories 230, 285-6, road conditions 578 18, 124-5 287 drinking & nightlife Rose (Güllüdere) & Red Suez (E) 111-12 238-9 Jordan 351 (Kızılçukur) Valleys Suez Canal 110-12, 523 entertainment 239 Lebanon 372, 380, 384, (T) 477 Sukkot 29 390, 402-3 food 237-8 Rosh Hashanah 28 Syria 565 Sulaymaniyah (Iq) 197-201, information 239-40 ruins, see also Turkey 496 198 medical services 239 ­archaeological sites Sumerian history 202, Safranbolu (T) 472 orientation 239 Agora Izmir (T) 444 502-3 Saida, see Sidon shopping 239 Ancient Olympos (T) Sunni Islam 533 sailing 40, 44. see also boat sights 231-5 463 swimming 314-15, 341-2 travel, felucca travel travel to/from 240 Antiphellos Theatre synagogues 540 (T) 462 Şanlıurfa (T) 487-9 travel within 240-1 Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue Saqqara (E) 76 websites 240 Asclepion (T) 443 (IPT) 255 Sea of Galilee (IPT) 248, telephone services (T) 467 Beit Alpha Synagogue 21, 572­ -3, see also Ayla (J) 339 249 (IPT) 254 individual­ countries Bergama Acropolis security, see safety Ben Ezra Synagogue Temple Mount 12, 218, (T) 443 Selçuk (T) 445-52, 451 (E) 54 ­220-1, 220-1, 12, 220-1 Eastern Desert (J) 317 sexual harassment 567, see Caro Synagogue (IPT) temples Ephesus (T) 446-7, 450, also women travellers 255 Abu Simbel (E) 103-4 446-7, 446-7 Shabbat 535 Syria 48, 406-12, 407 Byblos (L) 376-7 Göbekli Tepe (T) 487 Shaqlawa (Iq) 195 books 412 Deir al-Bahri (E) 88 Hammam as-Sarah Sharm el-Sheikh (E) 117-20 civil war 406-12, 500 Great Temple of Ramses (J) 316 Sharon, Ariel 277, 527, 529 documentaries 412 II (E) 103-4, 28 Hierapolis Pamukkale Shechem, see Nablus politics 500-1 (T) 453 Karnak (E) 83, 16 sheesha 547 population 406 Hisham’s Palace (IPT) Luxor Temple (E) 83-8 Shiite Islam 533 refugees 392, 406 267 Medinat Habu (E) 89 Shiraz (In) 165-70, 168-9 safety 565 Jerash (J) 19, 307-8, 19 Ramesseum (E) 89 Shobak (J) 326-7 websites 412 Patara (T) 460 Temple of Echmoun shopping, see individual (L) 385 locations Temple of Hathor (E) 96 shrines T Taba (E) 128 Temple of Hathor (E) 104 Map Pages 000 Aramgah-e Shah-e Temple of Horus (E) 97 Photo Pages 000 ­Cheragh (In) 165, 33 Tabriz (In) 149-55, 150 605 Temple of Isis (E) 102-3 travel within the Middle typhoid 583 water 559, 583 Temple of Khnum (E) 97 East Tyre (L) 385-7, 386 Egypt 135 Temple of Kom Ombo travel advisories 565, see Iran 161 (E) 97 also safety Israel and the Palestinian theft 565, see also safety travel to/from the Middle U Territories 282 Umm Qais (J) 312-13 Thousand and One Nights, East 21, 574-6, see also waterfalls individual locations Unesco World Heritage sites The 553 Banias Nature Reserve INDEX travel within the Middle Abu Simbel (E) 103 Tiberias (IPT) 250-2, 251 (IPT) 254 East 21, 576-80, time 20, 571 Akko (Acre; IPT) 246 Bekhal Waterfall (Iq) 197 see also individual Baalbek (L) 390 -tipping 571 locations Gali Ali Beg Waterfall  T

Bagh-e Eram (In) 166  Z Egypt 133 travellers cheques 571 (Iq) 196-7 Baha’i Gardens (IPT) 241 Iran 182 Tripoli (L) 379-81 Ein Gedi Nature Reserve Erbil Citadel (Iq) 189-91 (IPT) 258 Israel & the Palestinian Troy (Truva; T) 440 Territories 281 Göreme Open-Air Mujib Biosphere Reserve Tsfat (IPT) 255-8 (J) 316 Jordan 350 Museum (T) 475 tuberculosis 583 water sports 44, 283, see Lebanon 402 Luxor (E) 83 Turkey 17, 48, 413-98, also individual sports Turkey 495 Pamukkale (T) 453-4 414-15 weather 20, 26-9, see also toilets 182, 351, 573 Persian Gardens (In) accommodation 494 154, 172 individual locations tombs business hours 495 Petra (J) 11, 327-37, websites 21, see also Kabbala Tombs Tsfat children, travel with 45 328-9­ , 330-1, 332, individual locations (IPT) 255 climate 413 10-11, 328-9 weights & measures, see King David’s Tomb currency 417 Pyramids of Giza (E) individual countries (IPT) 218 customs regulations 494 11, 58-64, 58, 60-1, West Bank 264-73, 271 Naqsh-e Rostam (In) 172 electricity 496 11, 60-1 whirling dervishes 473 Persepolis (In) 171 embassies & consulates Qadisha Valley (L) 381 wildlife 25, 281, 557-9 Petra (J) 328-9, 331, 494-5 Qusayr Amra (J) 319 windsurfing 27, 44, 25 333, 328-9, 328-9 exchange rates 417 Saqqara (E) 76 wine 381, 388, 400, 546 Tomb of Amyntas (T) 458 food & drink 493, 493-4, St Katherine’s Monastery­ women travellers 566-7, Tomb of Rabbi Meir Ba’al 495 (E) 18, 123-6, 124-5, 585 Hanes (IPT) 250 highlights 414-15, 18, 124-5 Egypt 135 Tomb of Sheikh Adi ibn 414-15 Syria 411 Musafir (Iq) 196 Iran 183 history 492-3, 518 Tabriz Bazaar (In) 151 Tombs of the Nobles Iraq 208 (E) 88 itineraries 32, 34, 416, Tel Aviv Bauhaus Israel and the Palestinian , ­architecture (IPT) 235 Tomb of the Patriarchs 32 34 Territories 287 (IPT) 270 language 417, 493 Tyre (Sour; L) 385 Jordan 352 Tomb of the Virgin Mary media 496 urbanisation 346-7 Lebanon 403 (IPT) 224 mobile phones 417 , see Şanlıurfa Turkey 496-7 Tomb of Yasser Arafat money 495 Ürgüp (T) 477-8 work 352-3 264 opening hours 495 World Heritage sites, see Torah, the 535 politics 491-2, 501 Unesco World Heritage tourist information 573, V sites population 417, 493 vacations 572 see also individual postal services 495 WWI 517, 518, see also locations vaccinations 581 Gallipoli Battlefields public holidays 495 tours 576, see also Valley of the Kings (E) 88 WWII 520 religion 493 individual­ locations Van (T) 484-5 safety 565 Tower of David (IPT) 217 vegetarian & vegan telephone services 496 ­travellers 544, 545 Y Trabzon (T) 479-80 Yafo, see Tel Aviv-Jaffa travel to/from 497 visas 20, 36-8, see also train travel 580 Yam Kinneret (IPT) 248, travel within 497-8 individual countries Egypt 137 252-3, 249 visas 417, 496 volunteering 40, 286-7, 573 Iran 183, 185 Yazd (In) 161-5, weather 413 162 Israel and the Palestinian yellow fever 583 websites 417 Territories 290 W Yom Kippur 28 weights & measures 496 Turkey 498 Wadi Mujib (J) 323-4 591-2 transport, see travel to/ Wadi Musa (J) 327-37, 332 from the Middle East, Tutankhamun 54, 89 Z Wadi Rum (J) 12, 337-9, 13 Zionism 507, 519 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 606

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Tube station Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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