ISSN 1853-9610

Nº91 - WINTER 2018 - July / August / September

Catamarca Valley of the 6K Peaks

Mendoza Restaurants Winery Guide Maps

Wine Tours in

-republic.com 1 2 3 CONTENTS

News Republic Out & About When the Sugar Turns to Alcohol...... 5 Bars...... 22 Volcanic ...... 5 Dining out...... 24 Fracking Hell...... 5 Winery Guide...... 26 The land of the 6 k Peaks Maps & More The desolate beauty of la Puna, Catamarca in Useful information...... north west ...... 6 Map of Mendoza City Center...... 23 Tango Map of Maipú...... 30 The private dance...... 10 Map of Chacras de Coria...... 32 Uruguay Map of San Martín Park...... 34 Step up to the Plate...... 14 34

The land of the 6 Peaks

Tango CREDITS Issue Winter 2018,- July / August / September. ISSN 1853-9610. 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A. Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613

Editor: Charlie O’Malley Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: [email protected], [email protected] Design: Circlan.com . Jona Conti: [email protected]. Contributors: Mariana Gómez Rus - Gilda Isoardi Photo Contributors: Miguel Andrade, Emilie Giraud y Mariana Gómez Rus Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic www.wine-republic.com

4 NEWS REPUBLIC

When the Sugar Turns to Alcohol

Budeguer is one of Argentina’s biggest sugar cane producers and is based in Tucuman, North West Argentina. In 2005 the Company moved into wine with the purchase of vineyards in Mendoza and has since built a modern, high tech winery in Lujan de Cuyo. Here you can try one of Mendoza’s most elegant Chardonnays – Tucumen Reserva, in bucolic surroundings with great views of the vineyards and . The winery is also the proud producer of Petit Verdot which is used in the blend of its top label 4000 Black Blend – 4000 refers to the postal code of Tucuman. The 2016 vintage has recently been released and is a delicious mix of Malbec, Montevideo and Petit Verdot. And to prove that this winery is forever looking forward, Budeguer has recently purchased Rotta Winery in Paso Roble, California. Open every day for visits, contact turismo@budeguer. com or (0261)4762020.

Volcanic Wines Fracking Hell

Tupungato volcano is one of the highest volcanoes in Fracking, the controversial method of extracting the World and is easily visible from Mendoza city. In petroleum, has finally come to Mendoza. Recent the distant past it once spurted a large lick of lava that is government approval has breathed new life into the now a 2.5 hectare lump of basalt in Uco Valley and part of oil fields of Malargue where it was once presumed the the newly planted Casa Petrini winery vineyards. From oil reserves were exhausted. Now the industry hopes the lava now flows wine as the winery has produced to attract one billion dollars in foreign investment. wine from the volcanic grapes – Malbec Roca Volcanica. Environmentalists have mobilised the population If this does not spur your interest to visit well maybe however with popular protests springing up in towns the 8-bedroom luxury lodge might tempt you to go across the province and many mayors declaring south. Or the gourmet restaurant with stunning views they would not allow the practice in their backyards. of the . Still not sure? Surely the opulent spa Alarming audio recordings predicting environmental and sauna seals the deal. Open everyday. Armageddon have gone viral and inflamed the www.casapetrini.com protestors. Road blocks have sprung up, detaining oil company supply trucks and provincial media is jammed with commentators arguing for and against the practice. The main argument for the anti-fracking lobby is the great danger of contaminated ground water – an essential resource in semi-desert Mendoza. The pro-fracking parties counter that a province with 30% poverty needs to exploit every resource it has to revive the economy and provide employment. Perhaps lost in the argument is the fact that days of fossil fuels are over and that Mendoza should be looking beyond the horizon, to the sun. A province with endless sunny skies is perfect for solar power, in much the same way as breezy Patagonia is perfect for wind power.

5 Catamarca

The land of the

PeaksGilda Isoardi marvels at the desolate 6K beauty of la Puna, Catamarca in north west Argentina.

Volcano Inca Huasi

We take the Route 40 north of Mendoza for 700 condition but spooky and foreboding. The long stretches kilometers. The landscape changes from lush vineyards of pitch dark road bring to mind ghost stories and to dry desert plains, the Andes forever rolling along to the horror movies. There’s no light for the 180km stretch left. We finally reach the small town of Fiambalá and turn that separates Fiambalá from Las Grutas, with the one west onto the Route 60 as it starts to gain altitude. By the exception being what must be the most unusually located time we are rummaging for our passports near Las Grutas hotel in Argentina - “Cortaderas” an enormous complex international border with we are already at 4,000 where some people actually choose to stay. meters above sea level. After an hour driving, we suddenly see the lights of a We are four climbers going to the land of the six thousand truck on the side of the road. We pass the vehicle with high peaks, a fabulous concentration of some the highest a sense of wariness, one of my friends remarking with mountains in the Andes, located in a desolate area known some dark irony that “on this road it is more unpleasant as La Puna, in Catamarca. Volcanoes such as Ojos del to come across people than not to”. Salado (the second highest in the Andes at 6,893m), Tres Cruces (6,749m), Walther Penck (6,658m), The government decided a few years ago to build a series (6,638m) and more than twenty other peaks above 6,000 of shelters alongside the road in the more remote parts. meters are found here. Our aim is to reach the summit of Between twenty and thirty km apart, these shelters have Incahuasi, a conical volcano with an impressive 700 m bright signs two kilometres before announcing them as wide crater. It´s name means “House of The Inca”, and of emergency stops. For anybody in a difficult situation and course they were the first ones to climb it in the year 1480. for climbers especially, these shelters are a luxury. They are small but very functional and are well insulated from In order to climb some of these giants, it’s necessary to fill the cold, have a small fire place and more importantly a in a form online and present a copy to the Fiambalá police. radio to ask for aid. This seemingly unimportant formality earns Fiambalá the nickname “the door to the six thousands”. If you fail At shelter number 3 the radio is broken and naturally to present a copy of this form you will risk the ire of some the scene fires up dark humour. The importance of very annoyed border guards. With no internet signal to these shelters cannot be exagerrated since the Route 60 fix the problem, you have nowhere to go but back. joins Fiambalá with Copiapó (in Chile) through the San Francisco pass at 4800 meters. This means that the 481 We took the paved road a little after sunset. Winding km stretch of barren desert road through some of the through the mountains, it was in surprisingly good highest peaks in the world has only two customs posts in the middle if you need help.

6 In winter the extreme temperatures and isolated storms make it very dangerous for the unprepared. Nevertheless there is more than one that dares to explore this silent and Hinca Huasi from Las Grutas’s thermal springs. remote land. In the shelter it is common to find testimonial graffiti from all sorts of adventurous travellers including Brazilian motorcyclists fascinated by the altitude they can get to with their bikes. The aspect of the high planes is difficult to describe. The local climber and writer Glauco Muratti once said.

“In this terrain the abrupt doesn`t exists, therefore the classic terminology used to describe mountains doesn´t apply to the Puna “.

It’s actually difficult to figure out which is which. Altitudes blend with that of other neighbours and the perspective is very tricky. In these mountains it takes not only experience but the help of electronic devices to figure out distance and location. For the lost climber everything seems desperately the same. As you turn your head everything has the effect of being an overwhelming mirror.

Most of the shapes in the Puna are chiselled by the wind and so are the clouds. The day we climb San Francisco, one of the most important 6000 meter high volcanoes, we were almost defeated by the gales. I was literally on my knees a couple of times. On the way back to the shelter we were horrified to discover that one of us had a semi- frozen nose.

A landscape a way to Las Grutas.

7 Volcano San Francisco

As for the water, it’s the great absentee. Concentrated only in scarce lagoons and salty plains, its elusiveness makes life almost impossible. You have to carry on your back more than 12 litres of water if not more. Next to Las Grutas, at the feet of El Escorial, a huge crown made of spongy lava extends to San Francisco. Here you will find a large shallow pond of salty water where birds gather by the hundreds.

Surprisingly in these desolate lands wildlife is prolific. Vicuñas are the most common - and definitely the cutest. Foxes proliferate as does their fierce predator, the Puma, and funny enough a bunch of wild multi-colored donkeys wander the steppes. Next to the lake there is also a vaporous spring of hot water famous among travellers, known as the Termas of San Francisco.

We approached our mountain by truck, a 17 km trip to the base (4400m). Then we walked to Camp 1 (5000m) in an A shelter open battle with the wind. On the second day our group split on the way to Camp 2 at 6000 meters. Exhausted, we decided to wait behind as our two friends continued the stuggle upwards. Two days later, after an anxious wait, our friends came back extremely tired but also very happy. After The night arrived and our car became the most breath- a monumental struggle they had finally reached the taking observatory. We could see parts of constellations summit of Incahuasi. Our job was done, we were ready that lay to the north close to the horizon such as the big to abandon la Puna go back home. The original idea was bear, a dominant shape in the northern sky. I remembered to return through Chile, infinite mountain panoramas then that across the border not so far away lies the slowly replaced by the powerful waves of the pacific, but Atacama desert, the home to the most sophisticated that’s another trip... telescopes in the world. Credits images: Miguel Andrade

8 Volcano San Francisco

9 TANGO

Bodega Caro put on a memorable tango show every Thursday night. Charlie O’Malley looks in to the history of this enduring dance.’

‘The tango is in a private dance from houses The music is a fusion of rhythms – candombe, the of ill repute and bars of the worst type. Never is it danced havana, the milonga and the madrileno. It was born in in high-class salons or by respectable people. Tango music the late 19th century in the poor barrios that fringed itself arouses unpleasant thoughts.’ Buenos Aires City. Waves of immigrants, mostly Italian but also Spaniards, Jews, Arabs, French, Irish and Poles So said Enrique Rodriguez Carreta, the Argentine began arriving on Argentine shores. They were young, ambassador to France, in 1913. He was trying to pour single and working class, fleeing famine or persecution. cold water on a hot sensation sweeping across – a They harboured an immigrants’ feelings of loneliness, sensuous, exotic dance called tango. It was fresh, exciting displacement and nostalgia. They all of course had a love and more than controversial. Before it, men and women of music. hardly touched when dancing. Brothels became big business, but not just for being places Now suddenly they were in a close embrace, cheek where sex was available. They became meeting points to cheek, chests together, legs invading each other’s and social exchanges, drinking holes where people could space, passing sultry looks and caresses, accompanied share a story and listen to music in the form of three by yearnful music with sometimes risqué lyrics. It was itinerant musicians playing guitar, violin and flute. Like enough to give a puritan a heart attack. Kaiser Wilhelm the melodies, people improvised some steps and danced banned it. Prince Louis of Bavaria denounced it as absurd. to ease their melancholy. A strange kind of mournful (Strangely enough Pope Pius was unimpressed and called accordion called the bandoneon replaced the flute. A it too languid for his tastes) All to no avail - the chattering new type of popular culture was born and tango became classes took to it enthusiastically and the tango became its’ voice, echoing stories of lost loves and sad memories. the music and dance of European high society. The music and dance evolved. Some men took it so Its’ origins are as mysterious as the dance itself. Experts seriously they practised together for want of a partner cannot even agree on the source of its name. Tango could (the girls were just too expensive). Their moves became come from an African word meaning closed place or a source of pride and perhaps a chance to improve their circle. Others say it is an 18th century term for a place appeal to the opposite sex. where slaves gathered (and perhaps danced). Or it could come from the tambor, a type of drum used in an African The new dance from the barrios was disdained by the dance called candombe. rich establishment. It was uncouth and immoral. They banned their daughters from practising it. Yet the sons

10 11 of the aristocracy were attracted by its romance and danger. They slummed it in the arrabales (city fringes) and picked up some steps.

At the time Argentina was developing rapidly. It had become one of the ten richest countries in the world. Most of the Argentine elite owned property in Europe and spent time there every year (such was their wealth the French had a saying; ‘He’s as rich as an Argentine’). Sons of the privileged were often educated in Europe. They brought the new dance with them and the tango craze began.

Tango even influenced fashion. Womens’ dresses – up to now bulky and restrictive, became looser and lighter. One designer with a surplus of orange fabric he could not sell, renamed it Orange Tango. It sold out in days.

Europe legitimised the tango. The high-class salons of London, Paris and Rome reverberated with the music. What was born in rags, now wore a tux. The Buenos Aires elite began to grudgingly accept it as their own - a truly original Argentine phenomena.

Bodega Caro is located in Escorihuela winery, Godoy Cruz, a 10 minute taxi ride from Mendoza city center. The small, intimate show in a beautiful setting, starts at 8.30pm and includes Caro wines and a food platter. Presidente Alvear 151. For reservations contact Tel : +54 2614 246 477 - www.bodegascaro.com

A Tango Tip

When the Argentine writer Ernesto Sabato wrote: ‘Only But Tango is more than a dance. It is a way of looking gringos dance tango for fun’, he was not kidding. at the world, a philosophy and poetry in movement True aficionados take it very seriously indeed. They and emotion. To dance tango is to immerse your stare intensely into each other’s eyes while the man self in Argentine culture; to dip into the nostalgia of leads. They never smile or say a word. They are deep the immigrant, to feel the agony and ecstasy of lost in thought and concentration. The only language is in love, humble beginnings and true friendship. If you the feet, heart and head. are brave enough to take lessons, remember you are stepping through history and whatever you do, try not to smile.

12 13 Step up to the Plate Montevideo and Colonia are Uruguay’s premium wine regions. Mariana Gómez Rus goes forth to the River Plate.

Candombe music was drummed up in Uruguay by Uruguay is located between 30 and 35 degrees southern 18th Century African slaves. Joy, sorrow, religion and latitude, the same as Chile, Argentina, South Africa and irreverence became entwined in dance, song and music. Australia. It has natural and environmental conditions It is a social and cultural phenomenon and one of the ideal for making wines. The vineyards rest on plains most eloquent musical expressions of Uruguay today. See of mainly clay soil and rocky lands in an exotic and for yourself – take a stroll through the Barrio Sur on any surprising landscape, influenced by an Atlantic breeze Saturday afternoon. Drums reverberate to the rhythm of and the that brings cool nights. tan-go, exciting both locals and visitors. In addition to its flagship variety , Uruguay also Uruguayan wine is just as exciting. Spanish, Italian and cultivates Cabernet Sauvignon, , , French immigrants introduced the vine to Uruguay in the Marcelán, Syrah, Pinot Noir, , Albariño and 19th Century. Don Pascual Harriague was an important amongst others. It has about 10,000 hectares personality in the development of Uruguayan viticulture of vineyards producing some 90 million litres per year, as it was him who introduced the first Tannat plants in by approximately 300 wineries. Almost all are family the country. The grapes ended up adapting well to the establishments that in some cases have been active for Uruguayan climate and soil and the Basque businessman more than three generations. ended up with a thriving 300 hectare vineyard devoted to this powerful wine, famous for its intense color and great structure. Over time the wine became so popular that What to do in Montevideo Tannat was renamed “Harriague”, a sobriquet that it still retains on some vineyards. Walk the Rambla to Punta Carretas, get lost in the old city and the Port (where each corner is a picture For many years the production of wine in Uruguay was postcard), stop at the Port Market to eat some tender associated with volume, as it was in Argentina. beef and try a “medio y medio” ( and was mass produced exclusively for internal consumption. sparkling) or go to the Mercado Agricola (farmer’s Towards the end of the 1980s the industry underwent market) for some everyday colour and charm. Stop a great change that, among other things, included the at Calle 18 de Julio to see the milonga. Then walk creation of a national regulatory body (INAVI) and a to the Parque Rodo, Palermo or Barrio Sur and get return to the true identity of the Harriague grape, finally carried away by the rhythm of the candombe in renamed Tannat. this arty, bohemian district.

14 15 It is currently the fourth largest wine producer in South America with as its biggest, most traditional market. Of its nineteen counties, fifteen produce wine. Colonia’s vineyards are mostly located in the district of The better areas are Montevideo, Canelones, Rocha (near Carmelo, 70 km north of Colonia town. Carmelo is where ), Paisandú and Colonia (Carmelo) the River Plate is born and it is a quiet, laidback town. To visit wineries you can rent a car in Colonia and tour the area surrounding Carmelo or take a bus to the town and Taking a Wine Tour arrange for a taxi to take you to one or two wineries.

Planning a visit to the Charrúa Country and want to My first stop was Irurtia, one of the largest and most taste wine? Wine in Uruguay is a fairly recent historical wineries in Uruguay. Founded in1900, it marks activity and there is a better chance of group tours in the beginning of viticulture in the area and is currently the high season October to March. Single travelers will managed by the fourth generation of the Irurtia family. find it difficult to join group tours in low season. Also It produces around 1.5 million bottles per year. The most it is important to keep in mind that Uruguay is more impressive part of the visit is the cellar, where it is easy expensive than Argentina, and doing a private wine tour to find wines with almost illegible labels covered in dust can be very costly. and cobwebs with sixty years old vintages. In addition to making classic reds and whites (Tannat, Viognier, There are wine tour companies based in Punta del Este Pinot Noir, Marcelán, Cab Franc and others), the winery (The Wine Experience) and in Colonia del Sacramento. also produces fortified wines that I recommend tasting, Even if you have little time and are staying in Buenos especially the Gewurztraminer or mistela (very special Aires you can take a wine tour for the day starting from and complex). Make sure to try the port style, fortified the Argentine Capital (Borravino tours) Tannat, aged ten years in barrel. Irurtia has visits at 11am and 3pm. [email protected]. If these options do not fit your time or budget, you can uy also do a wine tour independently. El legado is a true gem that cannot be overlooked. The quality of their wines is matched by the warmth of the place. The owners welcomed me with great kindness and

Uruguay Facts Uruguay in Guaraní means “river of the birds”. 12 million cows Surface area 176 thousand square kilometres 10,000 hectares of vineyards (3,000 of which 660 kms of coastline are of Tannat) 3.5 million inhabitants 300 wineries 17 enthusiasm, despite having arrived without reservation. Montevideo, it is one of the most interesting options in the El legado is a family winery in operation since 2007. In the Montevideo-Canelones area. 1960s the father of the current owner Bernardo Marzuca acquired some vineyards with the idea of setting up his The winery was built in 1940 and acquired by the Bouza first winery. family in 2003. They produce around 200,000 bottles a The dream never materialized and the vineyards were sold. Years later, Bernardo decided to revive the project. He bought back the vineyards and pulled up plants that A man cannot live on mate alone were no longer able to produce quality grapes and then planted new varietals. The vineyard works with low The habit of drinking mate (pronounced matay) yields looking for more concentrated fruit. And although in Uruguay is deeply rooted, so much so that Uruguay does not have the cooling effect of altitude, it the mate gourd and thermos flask is a kind enjoys the cold air coming from the river. of extension of the arm of most . Whether in a small town or in a large city, the After the visit I tasted three incredible wines, especially Uruguayan always moves with a mate kit slung the syrah with one year in wood. It has very balanced, fine over his shoulder (and I do not exaggerate). structure, good acidity and great aromatic complexity. According to the BBC, this small country of 3 With the tasting comes a cheese and cold meat platter, all million inhabitants has the highest consumption for a very reasonable US $25. of yerba mate leaf per person, with 8 kilos per year (dethroning its Argentine and Paraguayan El legado is an impeccable boutique operation producing neighbors). 15,000 bottles of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and And what about wine? Well, apparently wine Marcelán (a cross of Cabernet and Garnacha) is as sacred as mate because the per capita consumption is 29 liters per person per year - 12th in the World and number one in American Montevideo consumption, followed by Argentina with a lagging 19 litres. For wine tours in the Uruguayan capital, I recommend a visit to Bodega Bouza. Located about 20 minutes from

year, not only Tannat, but also Albariño, blends and a very special grappa made with Tannat. The wines age three to eighteen months in barrels.

A prudent distance of two meters is applied between rows to avoid the shade of one vine over the other (especially in the vineyards planted by Tannat that naturally are more vigorous).

Bouza is an excellent option if you have no car as they offer a transfer from your hotel (they will pick you up at 10am and return you at 4pm) followed by a visit, tasting and a gourmet lunch with wine pairings. All for approximately a $100 US per person.

What to do in Colonia

Colonia is a charming town on the banks of the River Plate. Spend an afternoon exploring its old cobbled streets, lighthouse and promenade. Stroll through the old town and step back in time on the Calle de los Suspiros (street of sighs) where 200 years ago, prisoners condemned to death descended by this alley to their execution.

18 19 20 21 BARS

INSIDE MENDOZA CITY

The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LA TABERNA DE MOE This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer. Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317

ANTARES BAR Aristides street would not be very complete without its own micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer in this respect with bars located across the country since before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153. EL BOTELLÓN Located in the 5th Section towards the San Martin Park and on Sarmiento 635 this bar has at least 14 varieties – Nuevo Origen, La Palmira, Fulana, Maleva y Portal, amongst others. You can fill your own bottle and they have a gluten free option. In Sarmiento Street, don’t be deceived by their modest façade, once you enter the premises, the bar is huge. They have an upstairs region as well as their big patio where there’s a drink bar that is becoming the ‘it’ place in Mendoza for thirsty office workers to finish their day with happy hour. BELIEVE IRISH PUB One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part- owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music- video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. HANGAR 52 www.believeirishpub.com.ar This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth, well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinker´s curse in Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables, resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip. Aristides 168.

22 BIKE TOURS In Maipú

The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended Wineries Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae, Alandes and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent “El Enemigo”.

USEFUL INFORMATION

AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right: (261) 156416 047 - Clark 298 corner. Olascoaga. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

EVERYTHING YOU NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT TIPPING BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK It’s a cultural minefield and a frequent topic amongst tourists and locals. Here we try to unravel the thorny subject of tipping by answering the most frequent questions. - Should I tip? Yes. Mendocinos are too nice to push the point but those who work in hospitality, especially waiters, are very much dependent on gratuities. - Who should I tip? Most definitely your lunch or dinner waiter and to a lesser extent your driver and wine tour guide if you are happy with the service. - What should I tip? 10% is the norm for meals or if in doubt 100 pesos is reasonable. - Is the winery lunch tip not included with the wine tour package? No.

23 DINING OUT Recommended

healthy breakfasts and antioxidants juices, El Mercadito stays open throughout the siesta with its light MENDOZA menu of sandwiches, big salads and some Argentine classic meals. CITY Aristides Villanueva 521. Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190. Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel - 4962267.

La Patrona Pizzaiolo

Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a Minimalistic but full of flavor is how Los Toneles casual, rustic charm attracts with you can describe Pizzaiolo. This is a traditional Argentine food and true Italian food shop with excellent friendly and warm atmosphere. pizzas and Italian dishes such as Hearty empanadas and sizzling calzones, bruschettas and pastas. If you Los Toneles go with warm, open sandwiches. We have a sweet tooth we recommend recommend the artichoke hearts the tiramisu and lemon Semifreddo. Located 15 minutes walk beyond the and goat cheese; roasted vegetables The owners, Esteban and Karim Fahra city center, this handsome historical with white wine and honey; or the and Pablo Nievas, are no strangers winery offers Old World elegance more traditional pick of rich glands to successful businesses since their and atmosphere. The expansive cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel: families ran ‘La Buona Pizza’ and ‘De restaurant serves traditional dishes (261) 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm- un Rincón de la Boca’ two of the most with a gourmet twist and it’s the 3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal famous pizza places in Mendoza. perfect lunch or dinner spot for those cost: $350. Sarmiento 631. Tel: (261) 420-0181. who have just arrived and want Mon. to Sun.: 12pm to 1am. Avg. Meal some genuine Mendocino ambience . Josefina cost:$300 Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel - 431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday Trendy and cosmopolitan, Josefina Torito lunch and dinner. Restó is an island of elegance on hectic Aristides Street. The building Torito is alluring the crowds to Juan is a playful mix of the urbane and B Justo Street, the new IT place in the natural. The warmth of vintage Mendoza for a night out. Classic style drawings adorning the walls Argentinean comfort food is cooked are illuminated through large, on a huge grill with very traditional handsome street windows. The options such as burgers, lomos (steak food is eclectic and seasonal. www. sandwiches) and cuts of beef. Fresh josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides and excellent quality ingredients are Villanueva 165, Mendoza 5500, used and the menu includes vegan Argentina – Tel. 261 4233531 and gluten free options. Football fans are welcome to big games and their outside courtyard is perfect El Mercadito for balmy summer nights. www. facebook.com/toritotime Juan B. The perfect spot for some lunch time Justo 234, Mendoza 5500, Argentina sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by – Tel. 0261 423-3394 three friends, El Mercadito has a cool vibe and relaxed music making it a favorite. Opening in the morning for El Perro Lombardo The new gastronomic pub is causing a great first impression. The concept is simple but well thought of as there Josefina are no formalities when sitting down Bröd on the table but to concentrate on the quality of the food. El Perro or Charming bakery coffee shop with the dog offers a chance to mingle in expansive courtyard set in old a cosmopolitan environment. The colonial townhouse one block from options range from falafel to cous Plaza Independencia. Excellent for cous salad to burgers and you can pair light lunches and battery charging it a cold beer or glass of wine. The bite coffee stops. Great wine selection of the week is very affordable only at next door at Winery wine store $160 pesos which includes a dish of can be purchased and sampled in the day + non- or beer. courtyard. Chile 894. Tel:4252993. The bar is in Arístides Villanueva 537. Tel 4638847

24 Recommended DINING OUT

Ruca Malen Ruca Malen winery is synonymous OUTSIDE with gourmet food & wine pairings in Mendoza and was a pioneer in this area. Having lunch in Ruca THE CITY Malen is also a visual experience, from the food served in creative plates designed especially for the occasion by local craftsmen to the breathtaking view one gets of the Finca Agostino Andes and the vineyard. It also offers great vegetarian and gluten-free The property is beautiful full options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo, of gardens and vineyards. The Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 restaurant matches the elegance of the 553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236. AlPasión outside with a tasteful and polished [email protected] setting. My favorite is the hospitality of the staff. From beginning to end Prímula Cantina Ferroviaria your experience will be accompanied Los Negritos by the smiles and politeness of the A small, genuine restaurant that is a tourism and restaurant staff. The Family-owned restaurant in the homage to Mendoza’s railway heritage. food is a 5 course reverie to the senses rustic splendor of Las Vegas in Part of the winery Estrellas de los Andes, that will take you through the native Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This this cantina is the Argentinean version ingredients of Mendoza with very is without doubt the best restaurant of a 50’s diner. The atmosphere is relaxed modern techniques. Pablo and Carlos in the mountains, specializing in and immediately transports you back to Torres, we’ll often explain the dishes traditional family recipes that add the good old days. You can even have and pairings. The menu is seasonal a new twist to Andean fare such as your lunch in an old restored wagon. The with much of the ingredients freshly humitas, tomatican and mondongo. setting is not pretentious and nor is the picked from the property’s organic The restaurant itself is simple and food. The menu consists of three courses vegetable garden and orchard. modern with no frills, but the food of with 3 to 4 options in every course. The Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipú. Tel – course. Open weekends and public options change every week according to 5249358. Mon to Sun 13pm to 4pm. holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg the season and the availability of local Avg. meal price: $1000 pesos. $250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas, products, made on a huge outdoor grill Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431. and mud oven. Olavarria 225, Perdriel, Finca Agostino Lujan de Cuyo. Tel 261 2213899 from Tuesday to Sunday and holidays from Lunch in a Winery 11am to 18 pm

Whatever you do in Mendoza, make sure to have lunch in a winery. There is nothing quite like sitting back to a long line of wine glasses holding delicious Chardonnay, Torrontes, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon (amongst others), accompanied by the finest, gourmet food Argentina has to offer. The icing on the cake is that icing on the Andes in the background and the lush green vines of the vineyard. It is definitely the most civilised way to get drunk on La Azul the planet.

La Azul Casarena Restaurant Lares de Chacras A pioneer in the Uco Valley region, The view and setting is gorgeous. this boutique winery now offers One of Mendoza’s most charming Surrounded by vineyards, this hearty lunches in a rustic setting with boutique wine hotels has now opened modern and elegant restaurant stunning views of the mountains. its excellent restaurant to the general allows for a charming and gourmet Family-owned , the owners are often public. Located in the picturesque experience. The menu is designed by your hosts and they take pride in wine village of Chacras de Coria, star chef Lucas Bustos concentrating serving giant portions of excellent a 20 minute drive from the city, in a sustainable and organic cuisine. beef and pork dishes, accompanied Lares offers traditional local dishes The surprise of the menu is the by the winery’s excellent, high in a rustic deluxe environment. delicious pairing with their wines altitude wines. Popular, authentic Every Wednesday they offer asado, but also a cider. Brandsen 505, Luján and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras de Cuyo. Tel – (+54) 9 261 696 7848 . Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato. de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www. Mon. to Sat. 12:30pm to 3pm. Avg. Tel - (02622) 423 593. laresdechacras.com/ meal price: $1200 pesos.

25 THE WINERY GUIDE

Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Los Toneles

City Center winery Los Toneles has a charming Old World feel CITY and excellent restaurant. It is a five minute walk east of the bus station.”Dirección: Acceso Este Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza. (0261) 431-0403. Open everyday. www.bodegalostoneles.com Los Toneles Clos de Chacras Cruzat

Charming boutique operation with A boutique traditional sparkling wine nice history. A five minute walk producer with gorgeous bubbles that from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran LUJÁN can be enjoyed from their terrace Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706. overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. DE CUYO Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.closdechacras.com.ar www.bodegacruzat.com

Terrazas de los Andes Melipal Alta Vista

The fine wine sister of Chandon Great Malbec and gourmet lunches Masterful mix of modern and Argentina is a beautifully restored make Melipal one of the most traditional. Tasting includes bodega with well-appointed tasting exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) distinctive Torrontes or single room. Best Wine: Cheval de los 4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684. Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de com.ar de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Mendel Matervini Terrazas de los Andes An old style winery ran by one of Two Malbec pioneers - Argentina’s most famous winemaker Achaval and Robert Cipresso, dynasties the De La Motta family. break new, exciting ground with (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor rich, mineral wines from unusual Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. terroirs. This tiny, boutique mendel.com.ar operation only sells from the winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com. Viña Cobos Tel. 261 5616691. Luigi Bosca American winemaker Paul Hobbs Belasco de Baquedano The Arizu dynasty are the royal was one of the first to recognise family of and their the possibilities of Malbec and his Gleaming modern facility with seat of operations is a handsome and Bramare label is possibly one of the fascinating aroma room and restaurant elegant 110-year old winery. (0261) best examples of this varietal. (0261) with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www. Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www. www.vinacobos.com belascomalbec.co luigibosca.com.ar Familia Blanco Wines Catena Zapata Ciudad Family-owned, modern and practical Showcase winery designed like winery. It is branded by the passion a Mayan temple overlooking Luján de Cuyo and can do attitude of the owners. vineyards and the Andes Mountains. The most popular wine is Bonarda. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. Maipú The winemaker in charge is the Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. famous Giuseppe Franceschini. Visits catenawines.com Valle de Uco available every day from 10am to 17pm. www.familiablancowines.com

Tapiz Nieto Senetiner

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high- Located in a beautiful old winery end restaurant Terruño and an in Chacras, Senetiner was founded instructive wine tour including in 1888 and makes a great range of barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz. Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner. com com.ar

26 THE WINERY GUIDE

Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Benegas Lynch Carmelo Patti Chandon

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Mendoza’s most famous garagista. The original foreign investor, French- old bodega with lots of character. Carmelo Patti himself is often there owned Chandon has been making Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) to show you around (in Spanish). Best great sparkling wines in Mendoza 496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. www.bodegabenegas.com barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. 2614, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar Caelum Decero Modern, medium size winery on Chandon the main road to Chile just before Attractive, modern facility with the mountains and has a nice spectacular views of the mountains family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 (261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Vistalba Dominio del Plata Tasting room where one entire wall Ruca Malen Argentina´s most famous female is a subterranean cross section of the winemaker Susana Balbo is creating actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Excellent food, great guiding and some rich and complex wines in the Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. first-class wines. The pairings over heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. lunch make for an unforgettable Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de www.carlospulentawines culinary experience. (0261) Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar 5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www. bodegarucamalen.com Renacer Dominio del Plata This Chilean-owned winery creates Estrella de los Andes the label Punto Final. Small, modern operation with tours that include Old World winery and canteen style a hands-on lesson in blending. Vistalba restaurant with a railway theme. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. Simple and authentic. (0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www. Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190 bodegarenacer.com.ar Budeguer [email protected]

Lagarde Modern-style Budeguer winery offers you the chance to blend Owner of the oldest white wine in wine and art in a warm and relaxed . Try the hand-crafted atmosphere. Its superb terrace is sparkling wine made from 100 open until 8pm and it is the perfect year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying 27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745, the sunset. Reservations required Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. at [email protected] or (0261) www.lagarde.com.ar 6830749- www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Casarena Cuyo. Mendoza. Kaiken

A beautiful mix of old and new, Dante Robino this winery mixes tradition and Achaval Ferrer modernity in an old style winery Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old- with a super modern restaurant with Modern boutique close to Mendoza style winery with a modernist, light- splendid views of the vineyards and riverbed. Big concentrated wines. filled tasting room with excellent mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, view of mountains and vines. www.casarenawines.com (261) Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón 6967848. com Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www. bodegadanterobino.com Kaiken Familia Cassone This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious A charming, family owned winery Chilean winery Montes. Big and in a beautiful setting. Try the powerful wines, destined for fame. jasmine tinted rosé amidst the (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile pastoral splendour of the owner’s (0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155 expansive garden. Anchorena y Casarena 509 453) Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www. familiacassone.com.ar

27 THE WINERY GUIDE

Luján de Cuyo Maipú Valle de Uco

Septima Alpamanta Catena Zapata

A beautifully designed winery with Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set Showcase winery designed like clear views of the mountains and a in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche. a Mayan temple overlooking large terrace used for sunset wine Ideal for families and nature lovers. vineyards and the Andes Mountains. events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan www.alpamanta.com Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www. de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com catenawines.com

Pulenta Estate Norton

Cool minimalist design and rich Old-style cellars contrast with a high- complex wines make this a winery tech production line. Tank and barrel with finesse and style. Best Wine: MAIPU tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. are popular with the locals. (0261) Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel. www.pulentaestate.com Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Trez Wines AMP Cava Three friends making award Rutini / La Rural winnning wine in a small, circular Premium wines made from different winery.Tel. 4877085 y Well-stocked museum with terroirs but all by renowned winemaker +54 9 2616854019. invaluable antiques like cowhide Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings [email protected] wine presses and buckets. Giant and a close proximity to the city make oak tanks stand in large, cavernous it a recommended visit. Gómez Adriano halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, (261) 4813201/4668048 Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Don Manuel Villafañe Lopez 25 Tempus Alba 4 Modern winery in the wide open Popular, old-style winery with two Charming family run winery with vineyards of southern Maipú. museums on the wine. Restaurant modern facilities and terrace with a Intense, complex wines. Art offers gourmet cuisine with a view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel. exhibition all year long. Ruta 60 panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. 4813501. www.tempusalba.com. s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipú. (0261) Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. 5083067. www.dmvwines.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar. Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial Carinae Finca Agostino Trapiche Small, charming, French-owned Elegant and picturesque winery winery offering personal tours and with ancient vines and walled Argentina’s biggest winery is a well-honed wines. Surrounded by orchard. Offer superb lunches and mix of old and new, traditional and vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499 cookery classes. Carril Barrancas industrial, and has the old train 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de 10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www. tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 Piedra, Maipú . ncaagostino.com 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www.carinaevinos.com www.trapiche.com.ar

El Enemigo

One of Argentina’s most talented winemakers Alejandro Vigil opens the door to this colorful and unconventional boutique operation. Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered. Carinae Finca Agostino Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261) Rutini Museum Finca Agostino 697 4213 Familia Cecchin

Familia Zuccardi A family winery using organic and biodynamic principles where you A professional, far-sighted operation. can see the entire process from the Attractive restaurant amidst the beautiful green vineyards to the vines, famous for its asado-style minimal intervention winery. (0261) lunches and generous wine pourings. 497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before (0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Casa El Enemigo reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

28 THE WINERY GUIDE

Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Familia Di Tommasso Trivento Trivento Officially the second oldest winery in Located in the bucolic splendour of Mendoza and still run by Argentine southern Maipu, Trivento is owned hands. Their charming and rustic by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This restaurant looks onto the vineyard, modern winery has a beautiful deck set just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www. excursions within the property. Ruta 60 familiaditommaso.com y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza. (0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com

Finca Sophenia The Vines of Mendoza Modern, high tech winery in A cooperative of international wine VALLE stunning location. High quality lovers who have all bought a vineyard wines overseen by Matias Michellini. plot each in Uco Valley to make their www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154- own wine with experts. Add to this DE UCO 45622 a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley Domaine Bousquet will never be the same again. Ruta 94, Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900 Atamisque Another French transplant to the Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, Salentein This Uco winery has some great this sizeable operation produces white wines, a unique stony roof and high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot Designed like a temple to wine, this they breed their own trout which is and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato. ultra-concept winery includes a served in the charming restaurant. www.domainebousquet.com (0261) modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel (0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San 5274048 set high in the Andean valley. (02622) Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque. 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www. com killkasalentein.com Corazon del Sol La Azul A stark, modern winery with big, Simple, small production winery concentrated reds. Californian with not so simple Malbecs, a small owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel. traditional restaurant and now a 0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol. beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P com. 89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com Andeluna Salentein The old-world style tasting room La Azul looks upon dramatic views of Diamandes vineyards against mountains. Probably the best gourmet lunch Modern, imposing winery with in the winery. (02622) 423 226 magnificent wines, part of Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, prestigious French group Clos de los Tupungato. www. andeluna.com Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland. Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261) 4760695. Casa Petrini O. Fournier Bodega Masi Modern, boutique winery with Most architecturally innovative unusual volcanic soil vineyards and Fascinating Italian job in the heart of winery with rich, concentrated luxury 8-room lodge, restaurant and Tupungato with commanding views wines. Excellent lunches in the spa. www.casapetrini.com and commanding wines, especially modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 Andeluna the Amarone inspired varietals and 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. Carlos. www.ofournier.com Piedra Infinita www.masitupungato.com Gimenez Riili Innovative, elegant and modern, Piedra Infinita is the imposing, A brand new family run affair, part dramatic contribution of Familia of the exciting Vines of Mendoza Zuccardi in Uco Valley.. Open project. This is a modern winery in from Wednesday to Sunday. www. a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/ zuccardiwines.com. 0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Mendoza.

29 30 31 32 MAP OF WINE TOUR MAIPÚ

33 MAP OF SAN MARTIN PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

34 35 Sister Company of

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