Stalking the Elusive Upgrade The search for miles is never- ending. I want to fly business class but cannot afford the approximately SWISS MOUNTAIN HIGH $8,000 it costs from the West Coast. I The Jungfrau/Lauterbrunnen Valley region tops Gemütlichkeit’s list of Essential Swiss Desti- can purchase biz class tickets from a nations. This month we report on two of its most popular villages; Wengen and Grindelwald. consolidator and pay around $3,800 Whether arriving by train or car, which includes $500 worth of hotel he Jungfrau region has attract- visitors must pass through Interlak- vouchers, but that is still too rich for ed throngs of travelers since en, the valley gateway to the nearby my blood. So it’s ‘upgrade city’ and, the British tourism boom of the T th mountain villages of Grindelwald, with American Advantage, my fre- late 19 century. Then, as now, this Lauterbrunnen, Mürren and Wen- quent flyer program, that means four-season wonderland draws out- gen — the Jungfrau region’s main about 50,000 miles per person, per door enthusiasts and adventurers, as stops. While some make Interlaken trip. We don’t fly much domestical- well as those who come simply to their valley base camp for Jungfrau ly so the miles must be accumulated relax and be overwhelmed By Jim activities and take daily excursions via credit card purchases and vari- by the incredible beauty of Johnson into the mountains, travelers al- ous promotions — “collect our 100- stunning mountains with ready in the mountains have a head mile certificates from specially blue-green glaciers. start on most of the fun. There, rug- marked Kellogg’s cereal boxes,” etc. Active visitors can ski, hike, bike, snowshoe, fish, paraglide, sled, swim, ged trails — for both hikers and Occasionally, airlines put busi- cyclists — start at their doorsteps. ness class seats on sale, but you skate, ride horses, boat and climb — and that’s the short list. Such adven- In some villages, ski lifts are just a have to be paying attention. We are graceful glide away. planning a November trip and turous types mingle amicably with For many, the culmination of a throughout August and September the more laid-back visitors who are trip to the region is a visit to the haunted the airlines’ websites as content to watch the world from their Jungfraujoch. From Kleine Sc- well as online sellers like Expedia hotel balcony or from a cable car or and Orbitz. After trying many city funicular. Continued on page 3… pair combinations, we found on Orbitz a $2,100 price on an Air France, San Francisco-Paris nonstop. Update: Berlin’s Rebirth The alternative was to pay $757 each he German capital continues its tioned quarters. for upgradeable economy tickets on phenomenal post-unification The focus of tourism has shifted American Airlines, Portland to T transformation. Though dozens from the Wall, and all that it repre- Frankfurt via Dallas/Fort Worth, of the great buildings begun in the sented, to the restoration. The Reich- and use 100,000 of our precious mid-90s are now a reality, construc- stag, a deserted hulk surrounded by miles to upgrade. Considering the tion cranes still hover over the sky- weeds in the 80s, is again the center 100,000 miles, the Dallas stopover line and several huge projects — no- of government with a brilliant new and the fact that we couldn’t get the tably a new five-level rail glass dome. After a recent multimil- dates we wanted, we elected to pay By Bob station — are underway. lion euro buff and polish, the Bran- the higher price and keep the miles. Bestor Without so much as a blink denburg Gate has never looked Did we make the right decision? in the German resolve to restore their better. A new German Chancellery Obviously, I think so. Since we paid centerpiece city, billions are still be- is breathtaking. Foreign countries $4,200 total for two business class ing lavished on the world’s top archi- Continued on page 2… compete to build the grandest em- tects and builders. bassy — the British version is partic- in this issue For those who remember the pre- ularly splendid while, architectural- 1 Biz Class on the Cheap 1990 Berlin, both East and West, the ly at least, the Swiss seem to have changes are often disorienting; one struck a sour note. The Jewish Mu- 1 Wengen, Grindelwald must search diligently for a trace of seum, designed by American archi- the famous Mauer (wall), Checkpoint tect Daniel Libeskind (Twin Towers 1 Berlin Update Charlie is gone, and the popular mu- replacement), is the town’s most 4 Key Websites seum of the same name has been popular. Crumbling and, in some relocated from its former tacky, run- cases, abandoned U-Bahn and S- 8 Readers’ Forum down digs to modern, air-condi- Bahn stations have been turned into Continued on page 6… http://www.gemut.com October 03 http://www.gemut.com

but the most informative pages are newsletter First Class Flyer ($187), and DEAR SUBSCRIBER email forums on each of 30 frequent Continued from page 1 raison d’être, are all about finding the flyer programs. FF rules are complex, tickets, instead of $1514 for two up- cheapest ‘front-of-the-bus’ fares and often arcane, and many times the best getting the most out of frequent flyer gradeable economy seats, our addi- deals are not well promoted by the tional cost for admission to the room programs. While the price for his airlines. The vast majority of Webfly- newsletter will deter some, the seri- with the big seats on Air France is er’s email posts are from very savvy, $2,686. But we still have the 100,000 ous business and first-class flyer will very frequent travelers who know find it a bargain. miles. Since one can purchase up to from years of experience how to 25,000 miles from American for 2.5 work the system. With resources such as these, one cents each or $625, it might be argued must now approach the traditional that we could have purchased the Let’s say, for example, you have ways of getting a deal on a business two-person upgrade for $2,500 (2.5 100,000 points in the American Ex- class ticket with skepticism. For ex- cents x 100,000) — except that you press Mileage Rewards (MR) program ample, the American Express two- can’t buy more than 25,000 miles per and you want to transfer all or some for-one platinum card deal that offers year. It is possible, however, to buy of them to Lufthansa, which is not an a free international business class another 25,000 miles and give them to MR participant. Is such a transfer even ticket with the purchase of a full-fare someone (spouses to each other, for possible? That very question was re- ticket. There are a couple of hitches; example). That’s another 25k per cently asked on Webflyer’s MR forum the card’s annual fee is $395 and you person for a total of 50k miles, but and here is one of many responses: pay tax on the free ticket. Right now, only half the needed 100,000 hard- If you are willing to move your for a late November departure from earned miles which, if used correctly, points to another Star Alliance partner to the West Coast, Lufthansa’s website can be worth much more than 2.5 redeem them on LH, you can do either of wants $7,694 for the roundtrip to cents each. For example, in high sea- the following: Frankfurt. Add the annual Amex fee son about the best we’ll be able to do 1. Move AMEX MR points to either of $395 (I can think of no other reason on a biz class purchase is $7,600 for Mexicana or ANA directly since both are Continued on page 8… two tickets from a consolidator. If we in the Star Alliance and part of the Using Gemütlichkeit instead buy two upgradeable coach AMEX program. You can then redeem • Foreign currency prices are converted to U.S. dollars fares for, say, $2,400 and use our points on LH! at the exchange rate in effect at the time of publication. 100,000 miles (50,000 per person) to • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are upgrade, we’ll save a total of $5,200 2. Wait till October 26, 2003 and often available for longer stays. and our 100,000 miles will have been move the points to USAirways directly • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise noted. worth 5.2 cents. We will therefore through the AMEX program. USAir- ways will be part of the Star Alliance on • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” save our miles until then. required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- that date and you can then also redeem ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, If, as we do, you play these mile- US points on LH. do not dial the first “0”. age games and are continually look- Mr. Upgrade ing to get upgraded, here are a cou- Logging on to our Website Those lacking the time or inclina- ple of outstanding resources. Except for the most recent 12, back issues in text format tion to regularly monitor a dozen or from January 1993 are available free to subscribers only at Webflyer.com so websites will do well to let some- http://www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To ac- The first is www.webflyer.com. one like Matthew Bennett, aka “Mr. cess the issues enter the user name and password pub- This is a huge website with some- Upgrade,” do it for them. His website lished in this space each month. The new codes are: thing of interest to every air traveler, (www.firstclassflyer.com), monthly User Name: dlrow Password: 9753

Vol. 17, No. 9 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY October 2003 Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: RobertRobert H. H.& &Elizabeth Elizabeth S. S. Bestor Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Editor: RobertRobert H. H. Bestor Bestor Adequate 4 - 7 Contributors: Doug Linton, C. Fischer,Jim R.Johnson, Holliday, Mark Jim Johnson Honan Unacceptable 0 - 3 WebWebmasters: Master: Criss Garcia,Paul Ryan T. Merschdorf Stowasser Consulting Editor: Editor: ThomasThomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Subscription Dept: Dept: KurtKurt Steffans Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura RiedelRiedel Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 11 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $59 per year for 11 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the Special G Designation publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 October 03 http://www.gemut.com IN THE MOUNTAINS Jungfrau Basics Lodging Grindelwald Continued from page 1 Wengen Grand Hotel Regina Population: 1,300 heidegg (a high plateau accessible by Elevation: 4,180 feet/1,274 meters Built in 1902 for the British tourist train from either Grindelwald or Tourist Information: Tourist Information boom, the Regina retains much of the Wengen), the Jungfrau Railway trav- Wengen, CH-3823 Wengen, tel.: +41/33/ character of that bygone era. The els primarily through a tunnel to the 855 14 14, fax: 855 30 60, email: exterior is still impressive with Victo- “Top of Europe” station, where visi- [email protected], web: www.wengen.ch. rian facade and turrets. Inside, public tors can view the panorama from an Grindelwald spaces are elegant, made even more observation terrace or outdoor view- Population: 3,876 so by centuries-old clocks, paintings ing areas, tour the Ice Palace in the Elevation: 3,393 feet/1,034 meters and sculptures from the owners’ pri- Aletsch glacier, dine in a variety of Tourist Information: Grindelwald Tour- vate collection. Its 100 rooms are gen- ismus, Postfach 124, CH-3818 Grindel- erally spacious, comfortable and restaurants, and ski (generally April- wald tel.: +41/33/854 12 12, fax: 854 12 October), hike, or go sledding with 10, email: [email protected], well-appointed, most with superb huskies. web: www.grindelwald.ch views to the Eiger North Face. Grindelwald and Wengen are Transportation The hotel is across from the rail foremost among the many alpine Rail: Interlaken Ost is the transfer station station on the south side of the main communities in the Bernese Oberland for all points. From there, Jungfraubahn road. Among the south-facing rooms, region: farm towns that have migrat- trains follow the Lütschine River until the Room 414 is a double with a stunning ed to the less physically demanding village of Zweilütschinen, where they view straight to the Eiger. Walls are separate; some cars go to Grindelwald, whitewashed plaster, and the décor profession of tourism. Today, it is the others to Lauterbrunnen where they have number one industry, with all the the further choice of boarding trains to emphasizes brass and glass. Room attendant pluses and minuses. On the Mürren or Wengen. From Wengen, yet 416 has the same view but its wooden plus side, the tourism infrastructure another train goes to Kleine Scheidegg ceilings and fabric wall coverings is strong, excellent lodging exists in and then on to the Jungfraujoch. give it a more historic feel. South- all categories, and restaurants meet Note: the best your rail pass can do on the facing second-floor rooms have large most tastes. Even the region’s six private Jungfrau Railway is get you a terraces but the views aren’t quite as independent railways recently got discount. spectacular. their act together to create a single Auto: Cars are allowed in Grindelwald, though parking is difficult downtown. Sauna fans will especially enjoy ticketing authority. Drivers to car-free Wengen must leave the Regina’s new Alpin Wellfit Club, On the other hand, the commer- their vehicles in Lauterbrunnen and con- which contains an extensive and cre- cial centers of each town have an tinue by train. ative sauna complex. almost cookie-cutter, post-1950s feel. course, those prime drawing cards, Contact: Grand Hotel Regina, CH- Even car-free Wengen can seem con- mountains and glaciers. 3818 Grindelwald, tel. +41/33/854/ gested. Though in both villages sou- Though cars are allowed in Grin- 8600, fax: 854 8688, email: venir stores dominate, it’s not the delwald, there’s not a lot of traffic. [email protected], web: shopping areas people come for. It’s Still, visitors will find the town’s www.grandregina.ch. the mountains, the glaciers, the clear charm increases in direct proportion Daily Rates: Singles CHF 295 to 400 air and the outdoor activities. to distance from the train station and ($222-301), doubles CHF 430 to 500 Grindelwald the main road. ($323-376), Jr. suites CHF 640-820 The village lies at the base of the Wengen ($481-617). Breakfast is an additional legendary North Face of the Eiger, Though higher, car-free, and CHF 35 ($26) per person. one of climbing’s best-known chal- more remote than Grindelwald, some Rating: QUALITY 18/20 VALUE 10/20 lenges. The mountain stands starkly visitors find less charm in Wengen. Central Hotel Wolter as a nearly vertical wall, climbing to a Much of the town’s activity— away The three-star Central Hotel 13,025-foot (3,970-meter) summit. from the hills and slopes — is fo- Behind it looms the Jungfrau in Wolter offers views to the Eiger but cused in a small commercial area, over the main street. For many snow-topped majesty. Between them, and when it’s busy the town can feel two glaciers carve through stone. guests, this is an acceptable trade-off uncomfortably confining. When it for lower prices. Some also like the Lifts carry guests to adjacent ski and isn’t, it seems a bit desolate. hiking areas, or higher toward activi- theme-based rooms and ask for them Wengen appeals especially to ties nearer the Jungfrau. specifically. There are Flower Rooms visitors who want to be close to the with flowers and vines carved into Vestiges of the Victorian golden outdoor action. In Grindelwald, head- and footboards, blue sky with age remain in structures like the though hiking routes crisscross the tiny “star” lights overhead, and floral Grand Hotel Regina, the Hotel Sch- town, skiers and mountaineers still murals throughout. The Cliff Rooms weizerhof and the chalet-style Hotel must travel a short distance on foot, give insecure sleepers the chance to Kirchbühl. Rustic charm is just a by bus, car or lift. But access to such look up and see realistic “stone” out- short distance away where chalets activities is virtually at your doorstep croppings looming over their beds. overlook valleys, farms and, of in Wengen. Cheese Rooms and Cow Rooms Gemütlichkeit 3 October 03 http://www.gemut.com (where you open the closet doors by Guestrooms are bright and cheer- [email protected], web: putting your fingers in a cow’s nos- ful, and many have large balconies www.kirchbuehl.ch trils) offer less threatening motifs. and windows. All doubles have both Daily Rates: Singles CHF 165-210 Farm Room 459, with cows and goats tub and shower. The new section has ($119-151), double CHF 270-340 carved in the headboard, is the best less character than the old. ($194-245). bet with a balcony and bathroom Contact: Schweizerhof, CH-3818 Rating: QUALITY 16/20 VALUE 16/20 with tub/shower. Grindelwald, tel. +41/33/853 2202, Wengen Lodging Contact: Central Hotel Wolter, CH- fax: 853 2004, email: 3818 Grindelwald, tel. +41/33/854 [email protected], web: Beausite Park 3333, fax: 854 3339, email: www.hotel-schweizerhof.com The sprawling six-story Beausite [email protected], web: Daily Rates: Singles CHF 210-250 Park Hotel stands proudly over Wen- www.central-wolter.ch. Proprietor: ($151-180), double CHF 375-435 gen, with red-trimmed balconies and Andreas and Monica Kaufmann. ($270-313). Rates include parking, full four-star glory. From its glass- Daily Rates: Singles CHF 105-125 breakfast and dinner. rimmed lobby, guests can look ($79-94), double CHF 210-250 ($158- Rating: QUALITY 17/20, VALUE 17/20 straight across to the Jungfraujoch. 188). Parking is CHF 5 ($4) per day. Hotel Eiger Under the direction of owners Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 15/20 The four-star Eiger is about 500 Magrit and Erich Leeman-von All- Schweizerhof meters from the railway station on men, the Park places great emphasis Although the Schweizerhof was the north side of the street. All 46 on guest pampering, in large part via built just a decade before the Grand rooms are named after famous moun- an extensive spa that offers massage, Hotel Regina, it seems much older — tain peaks and were completely reno- saunas, beauty treatments, and a not in the sense of rundown but in vated in 2001. Rooms are generally grotto-like indoor pool overlooking Old World charm and character. Dur- spacious and bright and make exten- the mountains. The 50 rooms are ing an extensive 1994 makeover, the sive use of local wood. Closets and above average in size with plenty of owners obviously put more emphasis bathrooms are large and each room’s closet space and room to spread out. on restoration than renovation. The namesake peak is depicted in a mural The house’s best view is from the place is gorgeous. above the bed. Number 403 (the balcony of Number 416 and you can To the left of the lobby is a quiet Mönch) sits high above the town and even mountain-gaze from your bed sitting area with richly upholstered has a large balcony with Eiger view. through the floor-to-ceiling sliders. If furniture, fireplace and extensive Number 406 lacks the balcony and views and balconies aren’t important, library. Antique farm furniture such Eiger view but is much larger. Number 206, a standard double, is as as giant chests and wardrobes lend a A nice touch for families with large as a junior suite. sense of permanence and country infants is walkie-talkies that enable Contact: Beausite Park Hotel, CH- charm to landings, hallways and oth- parents in the restaurant to keep an 3823 Wengen, tel. +41/33/856 5161, er public spaces. electronic ear out for crying babies. fax: 855 3010, email: info@beausite- Contact: Hotel Eiger, CH-3818 Grind- park-hotel.ch, web: www.beausite- Key Websites for the Traveler park-hotel.ch. Proprietors: Familie • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to elwald, tel. +41/33/854 3131, email: [email protected], web: Magrit and Erich Leeman-von All- Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, men. hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips and past www.eiger-grindelwald.ch. issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see Daily Rates: Singles CHF 150-160 Daily Rates: Singles CHF 155-200 log-on info on page 2). ($108-115), double CHF 300-320 ($111-144), doubles CHF 280-346 • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of ($216-230). ($201-249), suites CHF 380-430 ($274- hotels and restaurants plus great interactive trip 310). planning tools. Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 16/20 Rating: QUALITY 16/20 VALUE 17/20 • www.travelgearnow.com Guidebooks, maps, travel Hotel Kirchbühl accessories, luggage, all at 10% off for subscribers. Hotel Caprice • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent flyer In a quiet country setting about 10 forums make this a must for air travelers. minutes walk from the village center, For those who want to avoid the • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail. Train this four-story, four-star, chalet-style Swiss chalet or Victorian look, the schedules throughout Europe, not just Germany. hotel has large, airy guestrooms. Caprice is an 18-room boutique hotel • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European rail South-facing ones offer stunning that’s more Laura Ashley than Heidi. schedules. Unlike many hotels passed from gen- • www.ski-europe.com views of the Lower Grindelwald Gla- Top web resource for skiers eration to generation, the Caprice is with much data on Alpine resorts. cier between the Eiger and the Laut- • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzerland’s eraarhorn. All have balconies. The owned by an Englishman and man- national tourist authority. style is Swiss-modern: lots of wood, aged by a Frenchman. It was built 12 • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national glass and sunny spaces. years ago and just underwent a com- tourist authority. plete renovation. Rooms are large • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national tourist Contact: Hotel Kirchbühl, CH-3818 and well-appointed. Number 46, on authority. Grindelwald, tel. +41/33/853 3553, the top floor, has a balcony with • http://www.hhog.de Website for an alliance of fax: 853 3518, email: Jungfrau view, slanted ceiling, ample historic German cities. Gemütlichkeit 4 October 03 http://www.gemut.com closet and a big bathroom with a balconies, green shutters, floor-to- Contact: Andreas von Allmen, Hotel skylight and Jacuzzi-style tub. Num- ceiling windows and views to the Bellevue Des Alpes, CH-3801 Klein ber 26 is an especially large standard Jungfrau. Frau Berthod, the hotel’s Scheidegg, tel. +41/33/855 1212, fax: double with balcony and mountain delightful hostess, has filled the 855 1294, email: info@scheidegg- view. Schönegg with charming antiques hotels.ch, web: www.scheidegg- Contact: Hotel Caprice, CH-3823 and matching, harmonious colors, as hotels.ch. Wengen, tel. +41/33/856 0606, fax: well as with old wood “recycled” Daily Rates: Singles CHF 170-210 856 0607, email: [email protected], from derelict farmhouses into charm- ($123-151), doubles CHF 270-410 web: www.caprice-wengen.ch. ing walls and trim. With only 29 ($195-296) including dinner. Daily Rates: Singles CHF 160-270 rooms, the hotel doesn’t take groups, Rating: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 15/20 which allows its staff to focus on in- ($115-195), doubles CHF 230-300 ($166- Food 216), suites CHF 350-460 ($252-332) dividuals. The restaurant, with fire- Rating: QUALITY 16/20 VALUE 15/20 place and garden terrace, is a favorite Schweizerhof coffee spot for local farmers, which The restaurant at the Schweizer- Hotel Alpenrose adds even more character (and char- hof is charming; expansive and open, The charming Alpenrose is set on acters) to the setting. It’s less than with sturdy wood beams, pastel table a sunny terrace about a 15 minute- five minutes on foot from the rail linens, an old tile oven and tons of stroll from the village center. station and from the cable car to character. It’s been renovated without It feels farther than that and Männlichen summit. The best room is losing too much of its sense of tradi- most guests prefer the isolation. the oversized Number 33 with a bal- tion. One exceptional dining area has cony facing south to the mountains. The 1881 hotel has a delightful a terra-cotta floor, iron gates, scroll- Backups would be the slightly small- sitting room, parlor, bar, and an excel- work along the moldings and wood er Numbers 3 or 8. lent restaurant that looks into the Lau- columns carved and painted with the terbrunnen Valley. Most of the furni- Contact: Hotel Schönegg, CH-3823 signs of the zodiac. ture and many of the carvings and Wengen, tel. +41/33/855 3422, fax: The menu features imaginative artwork are original and passed down 855 4233, email: [email protected] approaches to traditional dishes. to the current fourth-generation own- web: www.hotel-schoenegg.ch Guests can order entrées in either a ers (including the charming Frau von Daily Rates: Singles CHF 100-125 ($72- large or, for about two-thirds the Allmen, whose Scottish accent and 90), doubles CHF 200-250 ($144-180) price, small version. The reduced size spirit have stayed with her since she Rating: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 15/20 is enough for many, especially if pre- moved here 30 years ago). Though ceded by an appetizer. Main dishes rooms in the hotel proper are more Lodging at Kleine Scheidegg include lamb cutlets in a Rösti (fried than adequate (with Number 401 be- potato) crust, beef fillet with vodka ing your best bet, followed by Num- Hotel Bellevue Des Alpes whole-ground mustard sauce, and ber 301), try to reserve a unit in the At 8,958 feet (2,700 meters), the poached sole stuffed with freshwater adjacent guest house, which feels like base of the railway to the Jungfrau- crayfish—each for about CHF 42 a private chalet. Number 506 is your joch, the Hotel Bellevue Des Alpes ($30) for a large portion and CHF 31 best choice. In addition to spacious, offers 19th-century grand-hotel luxu- ($22) for the smaller size. A superb pleasant quarters, it offers a large bal- ry, not in its polished, refurbished first course is carpaccio of smoked cony that overlooks the Breithorn and form, but as it was — a once-grand duck breast with apricot chutney and the valley. hotel with plenty of Old World style. fresh shaved parmesan. A tiny Alpenrose flaw is its thin Kleine Scheidegg isn’t even a vil- Contact: Schweizerhof, CH-3818 walls, though that is somewhat miti- lage, just a collection of buildings on Grindelwald, tel.: +41/33/853 2202, gated by the absence of TVs. a mountain plateau high above Laut- fax: 853 2004, email: erbrunnen, Grindelwald and Wen- Contact: Family Hotel Alpenrose, [email protected], web: gen. Beyond the hotel, the only struc- CH-3823 Wengen, tel.: +41/33855 www.hotel-schweizerhof.com tures are the train station, a few 3216, fax: 855 1518, email: shops and some utility buildings. Rating: QUALITY 17/20 VALUE 17/20 [email protected], web: When the last train leaves the station www.alpenrose.ch. Proprietors: P. Restaurant Kirchbühl that’s it, unless you’re game for a von Allmen. With perhaps the best view of long, dark descent. But such isolation Daily Rates: Singles CHF 126-151 ($90- any non-mountain top restau- is exactly what many guests seek. 108), doubles CHF 222-324 ($160-233) rant in the Jungfrau region, Rating: QUALITY 14/20 VALUE 16/20 Every room looks out to one or the Kirchbühl also offers one more of the Eiger, Mönch, Lauber- of the best overall dining experiences. Hotel Schönegg horn, Wetterhorn, and Jungfrau, and There are actually three restaurants: The 100-year-old Hotel Schönegg though the hotel is very much alive the main dining room with Swiss and is known for its rustic, laid-back at- and not a museum piece, a lot of its international cuisine, the Stube with mosphere and its simple but comfort- furniture, fixtures and decorations Swiss specialties such as raclette and able guest rooms with wrought-iron could be. fondue, and an Asian restaurant.

Gemütlichkeit 5 October 03

Untitled-5 5 3/3/06, 10:23 AM http://www.gemut.com Since you can select from all three life in Germany. Plan at least half a menus regardless of where you sit, UPDATE BERLIN day and don’t, as we did, spend too Continued from page 1 try the main restaurant (or on its out- much time on the early exhibits. side terrace) just to the left of the shiny steel and glass emporiums of There is a great deal to see and you Swiss flag. You’ll find yourself star- transport with restaurants and can wear yourself out before you’ve ing straight down into the maw of the shops. been through half of it. Museum per- Lower Grindelwald Glacier between Under communism, East Berlin’s sonnel are extraordinarily helpful the Eiger and the Lauteraarhorn. Friedrichstrasse was a dispiriting and you can expect security measures Kirchbühl’s décor is a blend of tradi- row of ugly buildings. These days, upon entry. There is an excellent, tional and modern with a distinctly with its glittering Galerie Lafayette, reasonably-priced restaurant. Admis- rural elegance: freshly cut flowers five-star hotels and shops such as sion to the museum is inexpensive: and Stoke-on-Trent chinaware be- Prada and Hugo Boss, it’s making _5 for adults and _2.5 for seniors. neath hewn wooden beams. Service is noises about challenging the West’s Contact: Lindenstraße 9-14, Info: a blend of upscale formality and Kurfürstendamm as the city’s pre- +49/030/25993 300, fax 25993 409, country warmth. In the main restau- miere shopping street. email: [email protected], web: rant, entrées are priced in the CHF The piece de résistance of Berlin’s www.12-apostel.de/, Transportation: 35-45 ($25-32) range. The Stube’s main comeback is Potsdamer Platz, once U1, U6, U15, Hallesches Tor or U6, dishes are CHF 12-25 ($9-18). The the city’s center but a post-war vacant Kochstraße Asian restaurant falls somewhere in lot. In the ’90s it was Europe’s biggest Mercedes Welt am Salzufer between. building site and today it seems the Yes, it’s a new car showroom, but Contact: Restaurant Kirchbühl, CH- incarnation of every futuristic archi- probably unlike any you’ve ever tectural dream design of the past 3818 Grindelwald, tel. +41/33/853 seen. In an ocean liner-shaped steel 3553, fax: 853 3518, email: half-century. Housing an IMAX the- and glass atrium-style enclosure (de- ater, a fascinating film museum, and [email protected], web: signed by Bernard Maybeck) that www.grindelwald.ch/churchill.html the great buildings of Daimler-Benz rises some five stories above ground and Sony, it is a must-see for every Rating: QUALITY 17/20 VALUE 17/20 level are two restaurants, a private Berlin visitor. Barry’s club with indoor climbing wall and At Gemütlichkeit we think Berlin The Hotel Eiger built its Barry’s racquet ball courts, and, of course, all should stand atop the itinerary of restaurant to resemble a “village” of those gleaming Mercedes Benz cars, every first-time visitor to Germany, chalets built within the main dining priced from about $15,000 to more and that frequent travelers will find area. Guests can dine “inside” one of than $150,000. Brand new and rare the city continues to reward regular the chalets for privacy or sit on a ter- vintage models, they are everywhere; visits. As New York is to the U.S., race or balcony or along a passage- on the ramps that wind to upper lev- Rome to Italy, London to England, way. Either way, the otherwise large els, perched here and there at various and Paris to France, Berlin is to Ger- space is broken up creatively and heights, and hanging on long cables many. lends a cheerful note. Although the from overhead steel girders. menu has a range of local and inter- And it is our good fortune that About a dozen feet above the national specialties, the best bet is the city is not as expensive as Rome, main floor, on the flat “roof” of interi- Barry’s Napf, where guests choose London and Paris. Last year, our or office spaces, is an upscale, open- from a variety of meats, fruits and survey of the top hotels as listed in air restaurant whose tables are ele- vegetables which are then cooked by the Michelin Red Guides showed that gantly set with white linen and fine the chef (Mongolian style). There’s five-star hotels in Berlin are about crystal. We chose a table in the main also an extensive salad bar with plen- half the price of their counterparts in floor’s more informal eating area ty of fruit. Both dishes are all-you- Paris, London and Rome. In lower where we kept one eye on huge, can-eat. Barry, by the way, is a St. priced hotels the ratio is similar. high-definition TV screens tuned to Bernard, and you’ll see plenty of his What follows is a summary of our CNN and enjoyed a cool bier vom fass stuffed “puppies.” discoveries of the past year as well as (on draft), salad and excellent bowls Contact: Barry’s, Hotel Eiger, CH- a recounting of a few old favorites. of soup — potato with sliced Wurst. _ 3818 Grindelwald, tel.: +41/33/854 To view Gemütlichkeit’s Berlin cov- Cost for two: 14 ($16). 3131, email: hotel@eiger- erage in past issues visit our online ar- Contact: Salzufer 1, off Strasse des 17. grindelwald.ch, web: www.eiger- chive. (To browse the archive at Juni, near the Tiergarten S-Bahn sta- grindelwald.ch www.gemut.com use the access codes tion. Rating: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 16/20 printed on page 2): Frierichstadtpalast For past issues covering the Jungfrau This surprisingly spectacular Las region visit www.gemut.com, click Mem- What to See Vegas-style revue in the Mitte is a bers and enter the login ID and pass- Jewish Museum pleasant leftover from communist words on page 2. Mürren is featured in The focus here is not on the Holo- times, when tickets to it were used to the July, 2002 issue and the Swiss Travel caust, as many assume, but on Jewish reward favored party apparatchiks. System was covered in August 2002. Gemütlichkeit 6 October 03 http://www.gemut.com There are acrobats, a full orchestra, a building under the S-Bahn tracks in charm and value. The Savignyplatz singers, dancers, opulent costumes a row of fascinating antique shops. neighborhood — near the Ku’damm and elaborate stagecraft that includes Dinner for four was _64 ($74), a and full of good restaurants and in- a retractable, mermaid-filled glass price that included rather a lot of the teresting shops — is our recommend- swimming pool arising from the cen- house red wine, a decent merlot. Fet- ed Berlin headquarters locale and the ter of the stage. tucine Pomodoro was _8 ($9), and a Art Nouveau is on its southwestern The theater itself, which seats large pizza cost _11.25 ($13). The edge. perhaps 3,000, has good sightlines latter is half-price at lunch time and Rooms in the pre-war building and there is not, as they say, “a bad there is live piano music after 9pm at have hardwood floors, high-ceilings, seat in the house.” Though only the the Georgenstrasse location. tall windows, and no two are alike. cheapest tickets ($17) were still avail- Contact: Georgenstrasse 2, tel. +49/ Furnishings and art pieces are per- able on the day of the performance, 030/201 0222, or Bleibtreustrasse 49, sonally chosen by Frau Schlenzka, the seats were excellent. tel. +49/030/312 1433, web: www.12- who has a decided flair in such mat- Contact: Friedrichspalast, Friedrich- apostel.de. ters. strasse 107, tel. +49 (030) 23 26 23 26, Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE 16/20 The hotel’s pleasant common fax 23 26 23 23, email: Restaurant Diekmann room, with its view of the Berlin sky- [email protected] line, seems always full of sunlight This slick little bistro not far off Food and is a cheery spot to partake the the Ku’damm produced one daily breakfast buffet or, in the Filou of the best Berlin meals in evening, to sip a beverage from the recent memory. The original of Delightful, moderately-priced honor bar (just write down your three locations, Diekmann has suc- Italian restaurant on Bleibtreustrasse room number and what you had). cessfully inserted itself into that hard- in the Savignyplatz neighborhood. to-locate slot between the expensive, The Schlenzka’s steer their guests Both the welcome and décor fussy restaurants Michelin likes to toward the neighborhood’s best res- are warm, with the latter fea- award stars to, and the traditional taurants and recommend worthwhile turing brick walls, candlelight, meat and potatoes places. sights that aren’t in the guidebooks large vases of fresh flowers, polished — the previously mentioned Mer- bare wood tables, and huge, deep Simple but attractive décor fea- cedes Welt am Salzufer, for example. stoneware plates. Dishes range from tures herringbone wood floors, bent Contact: Hotel Art Nouveau, Leib- _11 ($13) for pasta to _34 ($39) for the wood chairs, and white tablecloths. nizstrasse 59, 10629 Berlin five-course menu. Without beverages What comes out of the kitchen — tel.: +49/030/32 77 44 0, fax 32 77 44 we paid _47 ($54) for a late supper fillet of beef in a brown reduction 40, email: [email protected], for two that included a shared anti- sauce accompanied by mashed pota- web: www.hotelartnouveau.de. pasti plate (thinly sliced, very rare toes with celery, for example — sounds Daily Rates: Singles _95 to 140 ($110- beef and salmon in top-grade olive simple, even pedestrian, until your 162), doubles _110 to 165 ($127-191). oil, scattered with capers and finely first bites. There must be secret ingre- Gemütlichkeit subscribers get 10% off. chopped onion); hearty helpings in dients. Given the atmosphere and Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 16/20 those stoneware bowls of bow-tie quality of food, Diekmann is a bar- pasta with wild mushrooms and sau- gain. The three-course menu is _35 Art Hotel Am See _ teed chunks of seafood and vegeta- ($41); add a fourth and it’s 41 ($48). For bargain hunters who don’t bles (_14/$16); and, for dessert, a A very pleasant surprise was the have to be in the center of the city, the shared panna cotta (_7/$8). silky half-liter of Rioja house wine for Schlenzka’s second hotel is our Contact: Filou, Bleibtreustr. 7, tel. _21 ($24). choice. Located in the Kladow district +49/030/313 5543, fax 8867 5437, on the lake formed by the Havel, it Dinner for four without beverages email: [email protected] was recently refurbished and has was _152 ($176). Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 16/20 been open under Schlenzka manage- Contact: Meinekestrasse 7, 10719 ment only a few months. “Die Zwölf Apostel” Berlin Charlottenburg, tel. +49/030/ Rooms are large, decorated in the Moderately-priced, but tasty Ital- 883 33 21, fax 857 294 77, web: Art Nouveau style and many have ian food served in a room that is www.j-diekmann.de/ lake views. more Sistine Chapel than Berlin res- Rating: QUALITY 17/20 , VALUE 16/20 taurant. Opulent wall and ceiling Frequent public transportation Where to Stay frescos. Good pasta, fresh salads, and takes guests to the center in about 20 large, delicious pizzas. Hotel Art Nouveau minutes. There is a 10% Gemütlichkeit discount. There are two “12 Apostles” — Savvy, world-wise travelers them- one in the Savignyplatz neighbor- selves, Christine and Gerd Schlenzka Contact: Art Hotel am See, Imche- hood (open 24-hours) and another on own and operate the hotel we nallee, Alt-Kladow, Berlin, tel. +49/ Georgenstrasse in the old East, where think offers Berlin’s best com- 030/36 50 033, email: we dined. The restaurant is located in bination of comfort, location, [email protected].

Gemütlichkeit 7 October 03

Untitled-5 7 3/3/06, 10:23 AM http://www.gemut.com Daily Rates: Singles _65 to 110 ($75- hold of the DVD which was finally architecture and the North Sea, this 127), doubles _80 to 140 ($93-162) released on September 2 and has an out of the way place is a must for the Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE 16/20 added short feature in which the stars traveller who has “seen it all.” We and director discuss the difficulties of stayed at the Stadt Hamburg, which Notes & Opinion: filming on a mountain. From friends, in itself is a marvelous experience. We still think the place to head- I understand that Werfen has not Thanks again for the many great quarter during a Berlin visit is the changed a lot since 1968 when the articles and recommendations. Charlottenburg district in the vicinity film was made and, if you have seen MARY & LOU KRONINGER of the Ku’damm. As we’ve often men- it several times — as many of us have WOODLAND HILLS, CA tioned in the past, we particularly like — you will recognize many of the the Savignyplatz neighborhood. streets and buildings in the town. DEAR SUBSCRIBER The talk that Friedrichstrasse will Talk about a time warp! Continued from page 2 supplant Kurfürstendamm as the As for the "Old World" travel ex- to carry the Amex platinum card than town’s premiere shopping street perience, we have most often found for this ‘twofer’ deal), the tax of $82 on seems to us wishful thinking. The it alive and well in the old hotels — the companion ticket, and your total Friedrichstrasse’s relatively narrow still clean and comfortable but for two people is $8,171, or a little sidewalks will never physically be unviolated by so-called moderniza- over $4,000 per person. Not bad, but able to accommodate the crowds that tion — in towns never mentioned in consolidator fares are about $3,800 roam the Ku’damm’s vast, more in- the Sunday travel section, towns like and include $500 worth of usable ho- viting, tree-shaded spaces. Wels in Austria or Celle in Germany. tel vouchers. And, if you are flexible • For truly inexpensive and surpris- For some reason it often helps if it's a regarding arrival city, Orbitz is cur- ingly good food it’s Alibaba (Bleib- spa town; Bad Mergentheim in Ger- rently quoting low business class fares treustrasse 45). A slice of top-notch many, Villach in Austria come to on several airlines. Some examples: pizza is an even one euro ($1.16). mind. It's important never to make a San Francisco to...Paris, $2,100; Am- • At Tavola Calda (Leibnizstrasse hotel reservation in advance because sterdam, $2,300; Milan, $2,300; Brus- 45) a continuing Editor’s Choice, don’t then you miss the chance to tour the sels, $2,300 and Munich, $2,200. miss the calves liver for _15.50 ($18). hotel and see all the empty rooms Deals like these make United’s before making your choice. Remem- • Sachs (Knesebeckstrasse 29), recent offer of a free economy ticket ber also to use the old staircase — with each purchase of an internation- one of many trendy, affordable Char- sometimes these have been all but lottenburg district restaurants, al business class ticket seem almost abandoned in favor of elevators — or laughable. Assuming Europe as the doesn’t measure up to others men- you'll miss the antique treasures that tioned in this story. destination, you would likely have grace every landing. Then, if the hotel paid about $7,500 (West Coast) in • A stand-up lunch at Rogacki you've chosen has a good restaurant order to get one economy ticket (Wilmersdorfer Str. 145/46) gets our in its whitewashed 'Keller' with a worth from $500 to $800. (The free strongest possible recommendation. zither player who drops in to play economy ticket, you see, is valid only Eat at the four-sided bar and grill, not during dinner, you've found the per- between September 15 and March 31, the cafeteria. Compared by a British fect "Old World" experience. (This when international coach fares are at website to the Oyster Bar in New happened to us in Bad Mergentheim their lowest.) So this is not a good York’s Grand Central Station. and it didn't matter at all that the deal; even in high season a consolida- • Paris Bar (Kantstrasse 52), bath in our room was five feet wide tor business class ticket is about half though discovered by tourists long and twenty feet long, and lit by a 40 the United published fare and a flexi- ago, still has good food and is the watt bulb. We loved that hotel!) ble traveler probably would have Berlin version of another New York Enjoy your publication tremen- found something for less than $3,000, institution, Elaine’s. Berlin people- dously as always. even in July and August. For one watching at its best. Reserve ahead. MARY ELLEN HUNTER international business class fare and VIA EMAIL one economy ticket the smart buyer Readers’ Forum Add Old World Places would pay between $2,800 and $3,500 As veteran subscribers, we en- vs. UAL’s “deal” price of $7,500. On Location in Werfen joyed your "search for the Old Coun- So, whether you have to clip cere- Can it be that your Mr. Honan has try." In thinking about the Old World, al box tops or spend $187 on a news- never seen Where Eagles Dare and so there are two places that we would letter, never pay full-fare for business did not realize why Clint Eastwood like to add to your list. class. Your best option, of course, is and Richard Burton were once guests Monschau in Germany is thor- miles, but how to accumulate them in the town of Werfen or why the oughly OW. We spent two days and how to redeem them is an art. To Castle Hohenwerfen looked exactly there and loved every minute. know more about it I suggest you like the forbidding Schloss Adler in consult, as I do, www.webflyer.com the film? If he has any interest at all Sylt is another delightful spot. and Mr. Upgrade. — RHB in seeing the best Alistair MacLean Beginning with the piggyback train thriller ever filmed he can now get ride along the causeway, the unique Book hotels at www.gemut.com Gemütlichkeit 8 October 03