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Rwanda • Journeys RWAnDA • JoURNEYS Rwanda Revival There’s more to Rwanda than gorillas in the mist, discovers Sue Watt Images by William Whitford 28 Compass • Summer 2015 Cox & Kings Travel RWAnDA • JoURNEYS Fifty-year-old Mutware is renowned across the oldest, most vibrant quarter, with Rwanda. He’s big, burly, belligerent … and Marie-Aimee Umugeni, whose tours fund stood just 40 metres ahead of us, staring the women’s group she coordinates. We menacingly. browse around the lively market, streets and shops, meeting her friends, sampling Rwanda is synonymous with mountain delicious home cooking, and sharing a slice gorillas, and you might think Mutware was of genuine local life. one of them. But he’s an elephant, living in Akagera National Park on the country’s And life is changing dramatically here. eastern border. With Central Africa’s largest President Paul Kagame’s Vision 2020 protected wetlands, rolling hills, vast lakes programme, started in 2000, is a 20-year and savanna, his home is one of the plan aimed at uniting Rwanda through a continent’s most beautiful wildlife areas. Yet better economy and improved education, few visitors come here, or indeed explore equality and health care. Today, it has one anywhere beyond Volcanoes National Park, of Africa’s fastest growing economies, a Rwanda’s gorilla heartland. health insurance system that is the envy of the continent, and more women in Aside from its famous gorillas, Rwanda will parliament (currently 64%) than any other forever be associated with the devastating country. genocide of 1994 when almost a million people, mostly Tutsis, were brutally killed The ethos of gender equality permeates by Hutus. Perhaps one day the country will through to daily life even in Akagera, where also become associated with the grace, five of the 13 guides are female. Celebrating strength and spirit of reconciliation it has its 80th anniversary in October, Akagera shown as it moves on to becoming one of suffered tremendously in the aftermath of the world’s fastest developing nations. the genocide as returning refugees settled here, destroying its ecosystem. Allowing Nowhere is this more evident than in the them to remain in one half, the government capital. Kigali’s genocide memorial is protected the remaining 1,120 sq km of thought-provoking and emotional, national park, averting an environmental explaining the history and tragedy of the disaster. Today, Akagera is jointly managed genocide. But take time too to see the with African Parks, a non-profit gleaming city centre and, beyond that, the organisation that restores depleted wildlife local markets. I walk around Nyamirambo, areas. Rwanda landscape “ Three hours’ drive from Kigali, some 480 species“ of birds and 8,000 animals Golden monkey now live in Akagera National Park. coxandkings.co.uk/compass Summer 2015 • Compass 29 RWANDA RWAnDA • JoURNEYS Three hours’ drive from Kigali, some 480 aren’t the only attraction. A 30-minute walk species of birds and 8,000 animals now leads us to a troop of cute golden monkeys live in the park, ranging from gargantuan cavorting in pale-green bamboo forests, giraffes to little oribi antelopes, along with entertaining us with their playfulness. buffaloes, zebras and elephants, including the famous Mutware. He’s Akagera’s Local communities demonstrate their grumpy old man and stories of his volatile basket weaving, beer-making and carpentry behaviour frequently make the local press. skills, and passionate intore (warrior) He’s demolished a tin roof on a visitor dancing at the Sacola Cultural Centre in shelter and shoved a Land Cruiser Kinigi. We stay at the nearby Sabyinyo (thankfully empty) into Lake Ihema. Silverback Lodge with stylish chalets Unsurprisingly, when we see him at such spreading up the hillsides and views close quarters, we retreat as quickly and as spanning the Virunga volcanoes. Owned calmly as we can. by Sacola Community Trust, the lodge helps fund the cultural centre, along with However, most of the wildlife we see seems new homes, scholarships and employment totally laid-back, probably because of the opportunities, helping 52,000 people lack of predators. Only a few hyenas and benefit from gorilla tourism. leopards prowl the plains, but there are plans to relocate lions in October, and potentially rhinos later, making Akagera a Big Five destination. New lodges are planned too, to join Ruzizi, African Parks’ relaxed tented camp on Lake Ihema’s shores. Nyungwe Forest Lodge would be reason Rwandan gorillas enough to travel south to Nyungwe National Park. I swim in its infinity pool overlooking lush rainforest, sweat in its top-notch gym, savour fine wines and dishes in its restaurant, and generally wallow in the luxury of our chalet. But the rainforest, spreading over 1,000 sq km, demands Colobus monkey exploration. “You really feel nature here,” my guide Arthur says, explaining that this is his favourite place in Rwanda. First stop is East Africa’s highest canopy Some 480 mountain gorillas live around the walk, Uwinka Overlook – part of Nyungwe’s Rwandan volcanoes, out of a worldwide 130 kilometres of walking trails. Teetering population of 880, shared with Uganda and on a narrow metal bridge gently swaying the Democratic Republic of the Congo. high above the valley, I see the deep, dense Leaving early in the morning, we track the rainforest panning out below like florets of Susa family, one of Rwanda’s ten gigantic broccoli. Within it live around 300 habituated groups. November rains have bird species and 85 mammal species, brought them down to the lower slopes of including 13 types of primates. Mount Karisimbi and, within an hour, we find ourselves in the thick of them. On an early morning trek into this primate paradise, we see chimps strolling on the All around us, gorillas play and pounce path in front of us, swinging on branches on each other, or just mooch around high above, and even mating in the trees chomping leaves and bamboo. (unromantic encounters lasting only Throughout, Kurira, the massive silverback, seconds). Later, some 30 colobus monkeys keeps a watchful eye on his family while give us another lively performance, their mums nurse their babies or chide cheeky long white beards and tails dazzling in the toddlers. Limited to just one hour with the sun, watched over by their adopted leader, gorillas, we try to take in every moment of a red-tailed monkey resembling a giant this enchanting family scene. chipmunk. But, as special as it is, there is so much From Nyungwe we drive past glorious Lake more to Rwanda than that brief hour Kagawe giraffe Kivu, Africa’s sixth largest lake and reflecting with gorillas. Time spent discovering this Rwanda’s verdant hills, to Volcanoes beautiful country will be time you won’t National Park, where we learn that gorillas regret. • 30 Compass • Summer 2015 Cox & Kings Travel RWANDA RWAnDA • JoURNEYS ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW: rWaNDa by Cox & Kings Africa expert Louise Stanion tHe BaCKGrOUND LOCATION Rwanda is a landlocked republic in equatorial Africa, situated on the eastern rim of the Albertine Rift, a western arm of the Great Rift Valley, on the watershed between Africa’s two largest river systems: the Nile and the Congo. LANGUAGES Rwanda’s official languages are Kinyarwanda, English and French. Kiswahili, spoken throughout East Africa, is also widely spoken throughout the country. POPULATION 11.7 million TIME ZONE GMT +2 hours CURRENCY Rwandan Franc (RWF) £1 = 1,027 RWF VISAS No visa is required for Rwanda. Before you travel be sure to contact the nearest set YOUr COMPass Rwandan embassy or consulate to obtain the latest information on visa requirements, or visit www.migration.gov.rw POTTED HISTORY Between 700BC and 1500AD, a number of Bantu groups, Nyungwe Forest National Park which included Tutsi and Hutu, cleared forest land for agriculture and formed clans. Located in south-west Rwanda, The Kingdom of Rwanda was colonised from 1884 by Germany and then by Belgian Nyungwe is surely one of the world’s forces during the first world war, both promoting Tutsi supremacy. After independence most beautiful and pristine mountain in 1962, cycles of violence increased between the Tutsi and Hutus. In 1994 President rainforests. Home to habituated Habyarimana’s plane was shot down, a catalyst for the genocide that followed. Paul chimpanzees and 12 other primate Kagame became president in 2000 and since then Rwanda has enjoyed relative peace. species, it’s also a birder’s paradise. Volcanoes National Park tOP tIP Travel by road accompanied by a private driver-guide, taking the time to Volcanoes National Park, which covers enjoy the landscapes of this ‘land of a thousand hills’. All the key places of interest 160 sq km in the north of Rwanda, *are within half a day’s drive of the capital, Kigali. is named after the chain of dormant volcanoes making up the Virunga mountains. It is renowned for its rich BeFOre YOU traVel BeING tHere biodiversity and, of course, its mountain WHEN TO GO WHERE TO STAY gorillas. Gorilla tracking and other forest walks are Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Volcanoes less demanding during the drier months National Park Akagera National Park (July to September) while the European Sabyinyo means ‘old man’s teeth’, in Akagera National Park is located in winter months are the best time for reference to the magnificent views of the north-east Rwanda, along the border birdwatching. volcanoes. The lodge accommodates up with Tanzania. It is home to many large to 20 guests in comfortable cottages. plains wildlife species and the much WHAT TO READ sought-after shoebill stork. Exciting Land of Second Chances: Nyungwe Forest Lodge, Nyungwe plans are underway to reintroduce The Impossible Rise of Rwanda’s Forest National Park lions, as well as black rhinos in 2015, to Cycling Team by Tim Lewis Situated in a tea plantation on the edge restore Akagera’s Big Five status.
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