Chapter 13 – Taming the Flathead Wilderness

Chapter 13 Taming the Flathead wilderness Construction of an aluminum plant in the heart of the Rocky Mountains at Columbia Falls has often been questioned. A qualified businessman doing his due diligence in 1950 would not be expected to consider building a $65 million (in 1955 dollars) aluminum smelter in the Flathead Valley of Northwest Montana. At over 3,000 feet above sea level, set up against the Continental Divide, the smelter site in Columbia Falls was more than 1,000 miles away from the nearest source of alumina and other raw materials needed to produce aluminum – with no barge or ship access. The factors that clinched the deal included 1) hydroelectric potential in Northwest Montana, including the Hungry Horse Dam, a new facility with sufficient capacity to power two potlines; 2) the availability of war-time surplus aluminum smelting equipment at cheap prices; 3) increased demand for aluminum, incentivized by the federal government, to meet the defense needs of the Korean War; 4) the interests of the Harvey Machine Co., a fabricating company facing aluminum supply shortages as a result of the Big 3 oligopoly that was clever enough to put the first three factors together in one package; and 4) the Anaconda Copper Mining Co., a large and diverse metals company well-versed in vertical integration and with sufficient cash to get a foothold in the U.S. aluminum industry. Anaconda had strong Montana roots – it began in Butte, its chairman had owned a summer lodge in the Flathead Valley since 1906, and the company had first considered building a hydroelectric dam and aluminum smelter in the Flathead Valley as far back as 1914. The Flathead Valley is bordered by the Salish Mountains to the west, the Whitefish Range to the north, the Swan Range to the east and Flathead Lake to the south. Squeezing through Bad Rock Canyon, the narrow gap between the Whitefish and Swan ranges, are the Flathead River, the second largest river by volume in Montana, the BNSF Railway main line and U.S. Highway 2. Three rivers – the Flathead, Whitefish and Stillwater – flow south across the valley toward Flathead Lake. Seen from the air, the valley floor is a mosaic of river sloughs and oxbows, ponds and lakes, patches of dense forest and farmland. Gone are most of the swamps that were drained by early settlers. While the valley receives an average annual precipitation of only 16.35 inches, it also receives the runoff from an average winter snowfall of 67 inches, which accounts for much the water on the valley floor. The Continental Divide shelters the valley from severe cold fronts coming south out of Canada – temperatures average seven summer days above 90 degrees and 12 winter days down to zero or below – but the three rivers, By Richard Hanners, copyrighted June 15, 2017 Page 1 thick forests and the numerous pockets of water made travel and therefore development difficult in the early days of settlement by whites. 1 Periodic floods wiped out riverfront communities. Columbia Falls resident Mike Berne, reminiscing shortly after the 500-year flood in 1964, said the worst flood in the area’s history took place in 1894. The Flathead River overflowed its banks in 1907 and surrounded the flour mill and grain elevator at the foot of Nucleus Avenue in Columbia Falls. On May 23, 1948, the Flathead River reached 19.5 feet near Columbia Falls, about 5.5 feet over flood stage, with a flow of 102,000 cubic feet per second. But the 1964 flood is the one that made its way into the history books and claimed national attention. Flathead Lake overflowed its banks for miles north to Evergreen, near Kalispell, and boats floated from the lakeside town of Somers right into Kalispell. The reason more damage took place in 1964 was that more property by then was developed close to the river, and more virgin timber existed in 1894 that limited the effects of that flood. 2 Explorers and native people In 1812, Canadian explorer David Thompson rode to a hill near Polson and described Flathead Lake in his journal. His Indian companion told him about a gap through the mountains north of the lake that wasn’t used because of the Blackfeet Indians on the prairie side of the Divide. In 1860, Missoula County was organized as part of Washington Territory and included much of northwestern Montana. 3 Before white settlers arrived, the Flathead Valley was home to several native tribes, including the Kalispel, or Upper Pend d’Oreilles, and the Kootenai. The area had been visited and explored earlier by fur trappers from Canada and Jesuit priests, but development of the area was slow because of its distance from regularly traveled routes. 4 Swan Lake, about 26 miles south of the future city of Columbia Falls, was known to natives as Sweathouse Lake and was found on missionary maps dating back to the 1840s. In the 1880s, the writer Frank Bird Linderman traveled to the north end of Swan Lake and counted 10 Kootenai tribal lodges. 5 One of the centers of Kootenai activity in northwestern Montana was the Tobacco Plains along the Kootenai River. Prior to 1850, the Kootenai hunted seasonally at Flathead Lake, competing with the Pend d’Oreilles, but after that they lived along the lake permanently, replacing or intermixing with the original population. The Hellgate Treaty of 1855 established the Flathead Indian Reservation in the Mission Valley for the Flathead (or Salish), Pend d’Oreille (or Kalispel) and Kootenai tribes. Most of the bands from these tribes slowly moved onto the reservation south of Flathead Lake. The creation of the reservation opened the door to permanent non-Indian settlement of the valleys of western Montana, according to local historian Kathryn McKay. In 1887, the By Richard Hanners, copyrighted June 15, 2017 Page 2 Dawes Act divided the fertile bottomlands of the reservation into individual allotments, and any land considered surplus was acquired by white settlers. In 1858, the resident non-Indian population of northwestern Montana was about 200 people. By 1870, the population of Missoula County, not including passing gold miners, was a little more than 2,500, but the population hardly grew little over the next 10 years. The W.W. DeLacy map published in 1870 showed a “half-breed” settlement located just north of Flathead Lake, where an Indian trail crossed Ashley Creek. The small settlement was established several decades earlier. 6 In 1845, two French Canadians joined the Kootenai living at the north end of the lake and built a cabin on Ashley Creek. In the late 1860s, however, several of the families living at Ashley Creek left the area because of Blackfeet Indian raiding, according to McKay. A decade later, several white settlers visited the upper Flathead Valley, with some remaining a considerable time. One early Flathead pioneer recalled that some of the settlers left in the late 1870s after it was reported that Sioux leader Sitting Bull was returning from Canada via the Flathead. Round trip from the Ashley Creek area to Missoula in the 1880s took about three weeks. In those early settlement years, various Indian bands camped in the valley, tanning hides and selling moccasins and other products to settlers. A woman who lived in the Flathead in 1883 recalled that, “Except for the nomadic Indians, life for the most part centered around the trading posts, a few ranches and an occasional trapper’s cabin.” Relations between the Indians and the incoming settlers were generally peaceful in the Flathead Valley, according to McKay. Two Kootenai, however, were lynched in Demersville in 1887, and three prospectors were killed on Wolf Creek by Indians that same year. Soldiers from Fort Missoula were sent to the Flathead in 1890 as peacekeepers for several months, but they weren’t really needed and spent most of their time clearing trails and roads. 7 By 1890, the Flathead Valley was still a part of the “Wild West,” and there were still “Indian troubles,” as contemporary accounts described them. Despite the valley’s isolation, natives and settlers alike were influenced by the Ghost Dance Movement that spread from the Northern Paiutes of Nevada, striking fear in the valley’s pioneer residents, according to local historian Paul Strong. Newspaper accounts began in March 1890 when a man was sentenced to 10 years in the state penitentiary in Deer Lodge for killing an Indian named Jocko in Demersville on Flathead Lake’s north shore. On April 1, two companies of soldiers were sent from Missoula to be stationed at Demersville. By April 25, it was reported that a band of Chippewa were camped at Half Moon Prairie, at the north end of the valley below the Whitefish Range. On July 18, Sheriff’s Deputy J.J. Grant led a posse of 40 men into a Kootenai sun dance ceremony to arrest several fugitives. Warned about the posse’s approach, the fugitives disappeared. 8 By Richard Hanners, copyrighted June 15, 2017 Page 3 According to Strong’s account, Peter Ronan, the U.S. agent for the Flathead Indian Reservation, came to the Flathead on Aug. 1, 1890, to assure the settlers that fugitive Indians on the reservation would be turned over for trial. At the same time, the Cree were in Demersville selling polished buffalo horn. On Aug. 8, Sheriff Houston and a posse of 50 men surrounded the Kootenai lodges at Dayton Creek and searched for fugitives. When the posse attempted to arrest Chief Aneas, the chief pulled a gun and tried to shoot a deputy. “Aneas dropped the hammer on a bad cartridge twice before the gun could be gotten away from him,” a report read.

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