Voices of Our Lake

i Funders & Supporters This project was made possible by the generous support of: Cadeau Foundation Whitefish Community Foundation

WLI Members

Authorship & Citation Whitefish Lake Institute, 2018.Voices of Our Lake. Whitefish, MT Copyright Whitefish Lake Institute, Whitefish, MT 2018

Front & Back Cover Photos gravityshots.com, Whitefish, MT

Layout & Design eBizServices, Whitefish, MT

Printing Towne Printer, Kalispell. MT

Disclaimer: The views expressed in the vignettes are those of the authors and do not necessarily represent the views of the Whitefish Lake Institute staff, board, committee members, or membership.

Photo courtesy gravityshots.com

ii Voices of Our Lake Photo courtesy gravityshots.com

founded the Whitefish Lake Institute (WLI) in 2005 to give Whitefish Lake a voice. Its muted waters were undergoing increasing pressure and it needed better understanding. After all, the lake provides a beautiful backdrop to our communityI while being a major economic driver. WLI’s role is to define the underpinnings of this lake-based ecosystem and to develop methods we can employ to manage and care for it.

Through the years, WLI and project partnershave amassed a solid baseline awareness of the water quality and food web that shape the lake and local streams. In 2015, we compiled that information in one narrative—the Whitefish Area Water Resources Report: A Status of the Whitefish Lake Watershed and Surrounding area. This report and all its supporting resources are available at www.whitefishlake.org.

Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

In the report, the lake’s voice becomes clearer, revealing a unique record of trends and patterns – the result of natural forces and human actions that operate at time scales ranging from minutes to decades. These patterns clearly indicate that Whitefish Lake is a complex ecosystem, behaving in ways that cannot always be predicted. Between its covers, many questions are answered while others remain as challenges for us to solve. Some will never be understood and are left to the mysteries of the deep.

Whitefish Lake’s voice now echoes in this publication through the vignettes submitted by community members that detail their diverse connections to the resource. Interwoven with their heartfelt ties to the lake are scientific observations. Ultimately, this publicationn is oneone ofo lessons learned, stewardship and hope. A hope that the lake’s reflection mirrors our community values in a new age of understanding.derstanding.

Voices of Our Lake i EXECUTIVE SUMMARY WLI provided the project deliverables. Additional funding was provided by the White- ong-term watershed level con- fish Community Foundation, servation requires a baseline of the Whitefish County Water L scientific, cultural, and historical District, the Cadeau Founda- knowledge of an area; an understanding of tion, and WLI members. its physical, biological, and chemical dynamics; and a program to monitor any changes The report received content over time from the baseline. With these ele- contributions from and was ments in place, adaptive management plans peer reviewed by scientists, and education programs can be created and educators, resource manag- implemented. ers, and policy makers. It was Whitefish Lake—July. Photo courtesy Walt Curtis distributed to all resource The Montana Department of Natural Re- management entities to increase our col- and we have set in motion important work sources & Conservation funded the devel- lective understanding of the resource and to address septic leachate pollution and opment of the Whitefish Lake Institute’s to make more informed resource manage- many other projects on Whitefish Lake. But (WLI’s) 2015 Whitefish Area Water Resources ment decisions. It is over 400 pages long it is the citizens of our community that hold Report: A Status of the Whitefish Lake Wa- and scientifically rich. With more than 340 the power to make a difference. Here in this tershed & Surrounding full color graphics and photos publication, we have all come together to Area. In that report, WLI and 24 fold-out maps it costs over support the common goal of appreciating processed and analyzed the $80 per unit to print and, given and protecting the health of the Whitefish data and information col- its weight, is costly to distribute. Lake Watershed. lected since 2007 through The full report is therefore avail- its core monitoring pro- able for viewing and downloading Watershed Restoration Plan Task Table from the WLI website. gram and assimilated his- One of the key deliverables of the Whitefish torical data from project Area Water Resources Report: A Status of the It is our hope that through Voices partners. Whitefish Lake Watershed and Surround- of Our Lake, we will successfully ing area is the Watershed Restoration Plan communicate some of the key find- The result is a complete (WRP) Task Table. This table contains a ings from the report while provid- water quality status report, comprehensive list of water quality issues, ing a place for citizens to share a Watershed Restoration concerns, and goals identified by WLI, proj- their stories and connections to the Plan, and a scientifically ect partners, and the public. It addresses the lake and the community. With rap- comprehensive founda- water quality objectives of federal and state idly increasing pressures on limited tion for long-term water agencies, assists the local community and water resources, WLI is foced on leading a quality management of the Whitefish Lake stakeholders in understanding water quality movement to protect our water quality from Watershed & Surrounding Area. The City of trends, and is intended to guide us in achiev- further decline. We are proactively combat- Whitefish sponsored the report, Anderson- ing our water quality goals. Montgomery Consulting Engineers, Inc. ting Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) through (AMCE) managed the contract work, and programming, partnerships and funding,

ii Voices of Our Lake The WRP Task Table includes 64 items broken A “place” is not just where we live, but how down into major categories including: City of we live, work and play. It is where we develop Whitefish – Policy & Government, Education a sense of belonging, and its distinctiveness & Outreach, Research, Restoration & Habitat informs our viewpoints. “Living in place” Protection, and Miscellaneous. Each of the 64 requires a culture of coexistence—a water quality improvement task items were balancing of human prerequisites and desires ranked relative to one another by the WLI Sci- with the needs of non-human inhabitants ence Advisory Committee and then priority and local environmental factors. ranked as Tier I, II, & III. Whereas this priority ranking provided information for WLI and Older folks who have lived in Whitefish project partners to pursue projects, it does not for their entire lives reminisce about a preclude the completion of lower ranked proj- place less inhabited, less developed, and ects if funding availability or unique partner- less visited. Younger folks who grew up ships make them timely to complete. or moved here brag about a place rich in history yet endowed with modernism. And The WRP Task Table is paired with adaptive LORI CURTIS visitors describe our town with accolades, management strategies to estimate project Science and Education Director, appreciation, and envy. From all perspectives, costs and to identify funding sources, activi- :KLWH¿VK/DNH,QVWLWXWH Whitefish has a big personality. From its ties, and timelines for meeting local water wild peaks to its engineered parks, it is full of quality benchmarks. However, there is un- Professor Emeritus of Landscape wonders to be discovered and histories to be certainty in predicting future political, social Architecture Robert L. Thayer wrote,“Life- made. and environmental conditions and how water place culture, I think, is not a concept to be quality could be affected. The WRP is designed grasped hard by a tightly clenched fist; rather, To me, Whitefish Lake is the heartbeat of to be used over a five-year period (2016-2020) it must be held lightly and balanced in the this exceptional place. It is also the focus of at which time a review will be required. It palm of an open hand. It also requires the my work—the subject of my research, the serves as a central record of projects that re- joining of many hands—the active engagement topic of my educational programs, and the quire the collective attention of local, state and of student hands raised in question, of clasped leitmotif of my writing. I feel privileged to federal resource managers, as well as citizens. hands around shovels, of cradled hands call Whitefish my home and to share it with We hope this work will also serve to further around new seedlings, of hands shaking in the many appreciative people whose voices the cultural understanding of “place” in the agreement, of hands patting people on the can be heard in this publication. Whitefish area. We welcome you to review the back, of hands raised in celebration.” WRP Task Table on our website at www.whitefish lake.org. Click on Watershed Report, then Addendum XXIII. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com

Voices of Our Lake iii LIST OF VOICES VIGNETTES LIST OF FIGURES

Charlie Abell ...... 19 Figure 1. Bathymetric Map of Whitefish Lake. Cour- Koel Abell ...... 26 tesy Constellation Services, Mark Reller, MarksLake- Morie Adams-Griffin ...... 5 Maps.com ...... 2 Sharlot Battin ...... 32 Carla Belski ...... 24 Figure 2. Generalized Lake Stratification Zones. Ron Buentemeier ...... 20 Courtesy Intamedscience.com ...... 2 Cliff Clark ...... 14 Figure 3. Whitefish Lake Map. Courtesy Whitefish Lori Curtis ...... iii Lake Institute and Flathead Lake Biological Station ....3 Shawn Devlin ...... 3 Neil DeZort ...... 10 Figure 4. Whitefish Lake Nested in Flathead Water- Jim Elser ...... 8 shed, Columbia River Basin & Crown of the Conti- Linda Engh-Grady ...... 40 nent. Map courtesy Mobile LoGIStics Mapping ...... 4 Sue Fletcher ...... 29 FREEFLOW ...... 30 Figure 5. Map of WLI monitoring sites; Photo cour- Kevin Gartland ...... 34 tesy Mobile LoGIStics Mapping ...... 7 Dan Graves ...... 23 Stella Holt ...... 24 Figure 6. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 8 Cynthia Ingelfinger...... 52 Figure 7. Whitefish Lake Phosphorous and Nitrogen Marissa Keenan ...... 1 Loads, 2014. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 9 Case Koopal ...... 53 Ed Lieser ...... 12 Figure 8. Fish species found in Whitefish area water- John Muhlfeld ...... 38 bodies. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 16 David Noftsinger ...... 31 Matthew Peschel ...... 48 Figure 9. Living Wetlands Interpretive Nature Trail. Erica Pichetchaiyakui ...... 56 Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute...... 31 Ryan Richardson ...... 35 Francine Roston ...... 28 Figure 10. Sediment Chart. Courtesy Spencer, C.N. as Chris Ruffatto ...... 54 adapted by Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 42 Tim Salt ...... 26 Figure 11. Lake Ice. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Insti- Kim and Sonny Schierl ...... 25 tute ...... 42 Adele and Jeff Scholl...... 36 Brian Schott ...... 15 Figure 12. Whitefish Lake Sedimentation 1885-2013. Chris Schustrom ...... 16 Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute...... 43 Marissa Sheffels and Susan Abell ...18 Dick Solberg ...... 22 Figure 13. Fish Consumption Cart. Courtesy Mon- Steve Thompson ...... 44 tana Fish, Wildlife & Parks as adapted by Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 47

iviv VoicesVVooiciceses ooff OOuOurur LLaLakeakeke LIST OF PHOTOS

Paddleboarders. Photo courtesy Kim & Sonny Schierl ...... vi Kellor Sawtelle on Wetland Trail. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 32 Marissa and Solomon Keenan. Photo courtesy Marissa Keenan ...... 1 NWMTLVMN Volunteer Linda Sawtelle. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute 33 Whitefish Lake Evening. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis ...... 1 City Beach Dock. Photo courtesy Lisa Gunderson ...... 34 Whitefish Lake from Lion Mountain. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com ...... 4 Photo courtesy The Daily Inter Lake ...... 36 Whitefish Lake Looking Northwest from outlet. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com ...... 5 Motor-Encrusted Zebra mussels. Photo courtesy U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service ...... 37 Beaver Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 6 AIS Decontamination Station. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 37 Hellroaring Creek in Fall. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 6 Eurasian Watermilfoil. Photo courtesy U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service ...... 37 Lazy Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 6 AIS Inspections. Photo courtesy Nicky Ouellet ...... 37 Stream Gage at Cow Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 6 Beaver Lake curtain. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 37 Swift Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 6 Curly Leaf Pondweed. Photo courtesy MTWeed.org ...... 37 Viking Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 6 Boat Inspection. Photo courtesy Flathead Beacon ...... 37 Monitoring equipment. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 7 FragrantWaterLily. Photo courtesy WA.org ...... 37 Hydrolab DS5. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 7 Whitefish Community Foundation Major Grant. Photo courtesy Heidi Desch ...... 37 Turbidimeter. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 7 Yellow Flag Iris. Photo courtesy Invasive Species Council, BC ...... 37 Surveyor. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 7 Flowering Rush Photo courtesy KCW.org ...... 37 Mike and Lori on Lazy Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 8 WLI Staff and other AIS Response Team Members at Beaver Lake. Photo courtesy At the Weather Station. Photos courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 9 Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 39 Whitefish Lake at high water. Photo courtesy Koel Abell ...... 10 Mysis Shrimp. Photo Courtesy NOAA Great Lakes Environmental Research Lab ... 39 Whitefish Lake at low water. Photo courtesy Koel Abell ...... 10 Hellroaring Erosion. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 41 Fluorometer. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 12 Swift Creek Delrey Bridge. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 41 Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com ...... 14 Mike Koopal on Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 43 Gordy Duvall with lake trout. Photo courtesy Stumptown Historical Society ...... 15 Ice break-up on Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com ...... 43 Bull trout. Photo courtesy U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service ...... 16 Train derailment. Photo courtesy Charlie Abell ...... 45 Westslope cutthroat trout. Photo courtesy capradio.org ...... 17 Whitefish Lake Beaver Creek. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com ...... 45 Abell Family Photo Collage. Photos courtesy Charlie Abell ...... 18 Interceptor Trench. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 48 Young Abells. Photo courtesy Marcia Sheffels ...... 19 Fireworks at Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis ...... 48 Historic Ice Houses and Rail Cars. Photo courtesy Charlie Abell ...... 21 Whitefish Wine Auction. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 49 Whitefish River Log Drive. Photo courtesy McKeen-Gilliland Family ...... 21 Big Mountain in December. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis ...... 51 Historic Ski Area. Photo courtesy Whitefish Chamber of Commerce ...... 21 WLI at Work. Photos courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 52 Mysis shrimp. Photo courtesy NOAA Great Lakes Environmental Research Lab .... 21 Chris Ruffatto receiving award. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 53 Paddleboarding. Photo courtesy Kim Schierl ...... 25 Second graders at Wetland. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 53 Lazy Bay, Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com ...... 27 Wetlands. Photos courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 54 Whitefish Lake sunset. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute ...... 28 Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis ...... 56 Photo courtesy Whitefish H.S. FREEFLOW ...... 30

Voices of Our Lake v TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ...... 1 CULTURAL HISTORY ...... 17 The Lake’s Silent Voice ...... 1 The First People ...... 17 LAKE LIMNOLOGY PRIMER...... 2 Whitefish Lake Timeline ...... 20 GEOGRAPHIC SCOPE ...... 4 Recreation ...... 23 WHITEFISH LAKE & ITS TRIBUTARIES ...... 5 Land Ownership ...... 27 Whitefish Lake ...... 5 WATERSHED STEWARDSHIP ...... 29 Whitefish Lake Tributaries ...... 6 Stewardship Partners Past and Present ...... 29 Baseline Monitoring ...... 6 Protected Lands ...... 30 Tributary Loading ...... 9 CURRENT & FUTURE CONCERNS ...... 35 Weather Station ...... 9 Biological ...... 36 Special Studies ...... 10 Physical ...... 40 NATURAL HISTORY...... 14 Chemical ...... 46 Geology ...... 14 WHITEFISH LAKE INSTITUTE STAFF ...... 50 Fish Species ...... 15 ABOUT WLI ...... 51 Lake Health Indicator Species - Nature’s Barometer ...... 17 WLI PROGRAMS ...... 52 COOL STUFF ...... 57

Paddleboarders. Photo courtesy Kim & Sonny Schierl

vi Voices of Our Lake INTRODUCTION ourselves drawn to the lake as the perfect end to our work day. A jump in the water has al- The Lake’s Silent Voice ways been our way to wash off the day’s work and enjoy our proximity to nature. ther than waves lapping gently along the shoreline on a serene We are lake people. From the last snow melt day, or big waves crashing against to the first snowflake, paddle boards sit lean- Odocks during a storm, Whitefish Lake is si- ing up on our back porch ready for the quick lent. The lake cannot describe its health or trip to the lake. Our wooden Lee Craft boat communicate its mysteries. Only through waits in our driveway for a cruise around science can we attempt to categorize and Whitefish Lake with our kids. This water understand the signs and symptoms of lake cleanses our spirit, fulfills our need to recre- health. It is therefore up to us to give the lake ate in nature and supports our business. The a voice—from our emotional connections to lake is an asset that keeps us in Whitefish and our management ethics—to define and de- brings others to visit this place we get to call fend our community’s most valuable natural MARISSA KEENAN home. asset. &R2ZQHU6ZHHW3HDNV,FH&UHDP Our business thrives from its proximity to My family and I live 3 blocks from city The lake provides us with a sense of place, water. As we manage the beachside conces- beach on Dakota Avenue in Whitefish. From sions at Whitefish City Beach, we reap the economic benefits, drinking water, and a our kitchen window we can see a beautiful lifestyle amenity to cherish. It also quietly benefit of visitors and locals flocking to the gleaming sliver of the lake through the trees. lakeshore for their own moment of fun and renders hard-to-quantify ecosystem services Every morning when we fill up our coffee such as flood attenuation, sediment and renewal. What better way to enjoy summer cups, we get a reminder of how fortunate we and Whitefish Lake then to sit on the shore nutrient storage, and habitat for plants and are to live near water. wildlife. enjoying the view with a delicious ice cream cone in hand! Whitefish Lake is our source of renewal and relaxation. After a long summer day making Whitefish Lake will always be an asset that we ice cream, delivering ice cream, scooping fiercely protect for ourselves, our children as ice cream or talking about ice cream for our well as our community and its many visitors. company Sweet Peaks Ice Cream, we find

Marissa and Solomon Keenan. Photo courtesy Marissa Keenan Whitefish Lake Evening. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis

Voices of Our Lake 1 LAKE LIMNOLOGY PRIMER Stratification Most lakes located at the same latitude as Whitefish imnology is freshwater science— Lake are subject to stratifi- the study of inland waters. Wa- cation. Density plays a key L ter flows to lakes from streams, role in stratification. Water rivers, groundwater, and precipitation, is densest at 39.2°F (4°C) carrying nutrients, sediments, and pol- and becomes less dense at lutants. Additional inputs reach lakes both higher and lower tem- through atmospheric deposition as bio- peratures. This density/tem- logical and chemical compounds that are perature relationship causes carried through the air. Lakes are defined many lakes to stratify or sep- Figure 2. Generalized Lake Stratification Zones. Courtesy Intamedscience.com by processes involving plants, animals, arate into three distinct layers and microorganisms found within the as influenced by climatic conditions and trophic state is defined as the total weight of lake, but they are also influenced by lake depth. In the summer months, sun- biomass in a given waterbody at the time of other natural processes such as hydrol- light and warmer weather heat the upper measurement. It is a methodology of “rat- ogy, weather, and climate; and by human layers of the lake, while deeper waters ing” lakes, ponds and reservoirs based on the processes such as land use and recreation. remain cooler. The top layer where water amount of biological productivity occurring Some of the key concepts in lake ecology is in contact with the atmosphere is the in the water. The amount of available nitro- include stratificationfi and trophicp state. epilimnion. Below the epilimnion is the gen, phosphorus and other nutrients influ- metalimnion, the transition zone between ence the trophic state. An oligotrophic lake the surface and deep layers. has low levels of nutrients and low levels of primary production where algae make their Within the metalimnion is the thermo- own food to live and grow. A mesotrophic cline—the narrow plane of the water lake generally has an intermediate level of column at which temperature decreases productivity, having clear water, sometimes most rapidly with depth. Below the submerged aquatic plants, and a medium metalimnion is the hypolimnion where level of nutrients. A eutrophic lake has high cool, mostly nonturbulent water, which is levels of primary productivity resulting from denser than warm water, remains in the high levels of nutrients, often leading to algal bottom layer of the lake. Stratification blooms. occurs when surface warming increases the temperature and water density dif- Lakes with frequent and/or severe algal ference to the point where resistance blooms are considered hypereutrophic. There to mixing is greater than the mixing are no hard lines dividing these classifica- strength of wind turbulence. tions as they vary based on an individual waterbody’s aquatic productivity. Whitefish Trophic State Lake was historically oligotrophic but is now Figure 1. Bathymetric Map of Whitefish Lake. Limnologists classify lakes and other wa- oligomesotrophic, meaning it is in a transitory Courtesy Constellation Services, Mark Reller, state of increased eutrophication. MarksLakeMaps.com terbodies according to a trophic state. The

2 Voices of Our Lake ter quality of most lakes is in severe decline, Without careful monitoring and quick ac- however, here in the Flathead Valley our tion, increased nutrient loading from runoff lakes remain clear and clean. The foundation and atmospheric deposition could turn our for the pristine state of our lakes starts with lakes from translucent blue to murky green. where they are located. Whitefish Lake is the I am honored to have the privilege of being headwaters of the Flathead system and sets able to study these magnificent lakes. More- the stage for clean, pure water to flow south over, I am humbled by my responsibility to Flathead Lake. The same water that we to continue the work of stewards who have swim in and boat on in Flathead and White- come before me and will work hard to keep fish Lakes flowed down from the mountain our lakes blue. tops of the Whitefish Range, Glacier National Park and the Bob Marshall wilderness, reap- ing every benefit of the secluded and protected wilderness set aside to preserve Montana at its finest. SHAWN DEVLIN, Ph.D . Over 60% of the Flathead Valley Watershed 3URIHVVRU)ODWKHDG/DNH%LRORJLFDO drains protected areas. Given this, the fact 6WDWLRQ$TXDWLF(FRORJLVW:KLWH¿VK that our lakes remain clean is not surprising. /DNH,QVWLWXWH However, our regional waters are not pure Lakes fascinate me. They are complex and and clean only because of the rarefied land- elaborate but somehow their complicated na- scape where they are found. Dedicated and ture is hidden by their simplistic beauty. As hardworking stewards have worked tirelessly an aquatic ecologist, I strive to understand to ensure that these systems are protected the thousands of intricate processes under- and that they are managed with the respect way in lakes at any given moment and how and admiration they so deserve. Flathead they might change over the course of time. Valley residents understand the importance To me, the way the physics, chemistry, and of water quality and its preservation, and the biology of water meld into ecology is nearly role that residents play in keeping these lakes as beautiful as mountain views of Whitefish clean cannot be undervalued. or Flathead Lake. I am fortunate to have the Unfortunately, the hard work of conserva- privilege of working on these lakes, two of tionists is not done. There are many threats the most beautiful lakes in the world- in my to both Flathead Lake and Whitefish Lake, opinion. With this privilege comes a respon- and these threats take many forms. Most sibility to understand what these lakes can notable, is the threat of invasive mussels that teach us and to work hard to protect them could severely impact our freshwater sys- through long term monitoring efforts. tems, leaving them nearly unrecognizable. We are incredibly lucky and blessed to have Pollution in the form of nutrients also threat- such amazing and pristine lakes in our re- ens the lakes of the Flathead Valley, despite the natural beauty of the region. Figure 3. Whitefish Lake Map. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute and gion. Throughout the United States, the wa- Flathead Lake Biological Station

Voices of Our Lake 3 GEOGRAPHIC SCOPE Clark Fork Rivers before reaching the mainstem Columbia Riv- er with its outfall to the Pacific ocated at the headwaters of the Ocean in Oregon. Columbia River Basin in the What we do to protect Whitefish L greater Crown of the Continent Lake not only preserves our hu- Ecosystem, waters of the Whitefish Lake Wa- man health, ecosystem fitness, tershed flow to Flathead Lake. Flathead Lake and way of life, it sends a gift of is the largest natural freshwater lake west of stewardship to our downstream the Mississippi River. From Flathead Lake, neighbors. water continues flowing via the Flathead and

Figure 4. Whitefish Lake Nested in Flathead Watershed, Columbia River Basin Whitefish Lake from Lion Mountain. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com & Crown of the Continent. Map courtesy Mobile LoGIStics Mapping

4 Voices of Our Lake WHITEFISH LAKE & ITS TRIBUTARIES Whitefish Lake

lthough the story is not “official,” historians have reported that in the 1850s trappers working in Athe area noticed Native Americans catching whitefish from the lake and consequently named it Whitefish Lake. The Salish called the lake whichw literally means “has whitefish.”

Whitefish Lake is the capture basin of its watershed. A watershed is an area of land that captures, stores, and sheds or discharges its surface waters to a single waterbody. Whitefish Lake is considered medium sized Whitefish Lake Looking Northwest from outlet. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com at 3,370 acres and 232 feet deep at its deepest point. It is 5.78 miles long with a maximum width of 1.37 miles and 15.85 miles of shore- felt extremely fortunate to be moving to this line. The lake has a relatively rapid flushing place. We ended up choosing a home within rate (retention time) of around 2.5-3 years. walking distance of the lake for ourselves to Its elevation has the potential to fluctuate by be able to enjoy its offerings. Not only do we, almost 4 feet depending on tributary flow in- as a family, take advantage of the recreational put or drought conditions. opportunities like swimming and paddle boarding, but I also personally appreciate the Whitefish Lake is classified by the Mon- peace it can offer me. At times, I find myself tana Department of Environmental Quality sitting at the waters edge contemplating my (DEQ) as an A-1 waterbody meaning it is connection to this big world. “suitable for drinking, culinary, and food processing purposes after conventional treat- 025,($'$06*5,)),1 The lake offers a wonderful metaphor for me ment for removal of naturally present impu- 3DVWRU:KLWH¿VK8QLWHG0HWKRGLVW to consider how I want to be in the world: rities. Under this classification, water quality Church settling and flowing where I will; not pollut- must be suitable for bathing, swimming, and ing myself with what might harm me; and recreation; growth and propagation of sal- On Memorial Day weekend of 2015, my being one whom others want to be around. monid fishes and associate aquatic life; wa- family came to Whitefish to look at houses The wisdom the lake speaks instills in me a terfowl and furbearers; and agricultural and to buy as we planned our move here. Dur- genuine hope for its present and future exis- industrial water supply.” ing a break, we decided to have a picnic in tence. I want others to be able to experience the grass above City Beach. As I looked out, its beauty, offerings and wisdom. marveling at the beauty of Whitefish Lake, I

Voices of Our Lake 5 Whitefish Lake Tributaries Six perennial streams and a few ephemeral streams and seeps feed the lake, some with mountainous origins that typically reach peak discharge in late May. Others are lowland streams with peak discharge in mid to late April. Each stream is unique based on local geology, vegetation, and land use. WLI has developed a solid fingerprint of the chemical composition and discharge rates Beaver Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Stream Gage at Cow Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake for each stream as a basis for future compari- Institute sons.

Whitefish Lake’s six perennial tributary streams include Swift Creek, Lazy Creek, Hellroaring Creek, Beaver Creek, Smith Creek, and Viking Creek. Swift Creek is the largest tributary to the lake, draining 64% of the total watershed along the Whitefish Range. Lazy Creek, a meandering lowland second order stream which runs parallel to Swift Creek in the northern valley, is the second largest tributary.

Hellroaring Creek is the largest of the small Hellroaring Creek in Fall. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Swift Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute tributaries and originates on Big Mountain. Viking Creek runs through a wetland preserve now owned and managed by WLI and is influenced by the City of Whitefish water treatment facility overflow and backflush discharge. Baseline Monitoring WLI monitors two sites of Whitefish Lake including the deep lake site (210 feet deep) near Hellroaring Creek and a site located close to the outlet of Whitefish Lake (56 feet deep) in order to describe nutrient cycling. The ongoing monitoring of a mid-lake site by the Flathead Lake Biological Station (160 Lazy Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Viking Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

6 Voices of Our Lake feet deep) compliments this work for a good analysis of the lake. Monitoring results from the three sites together provide a basis for understanding the dynamics of Whitefish Lake. In addition to Whitefish Lake’s six tributaries, WLI also monitors other local stream including the Whitefish River (the outlet of Whitefish Lake), Cow Creek, Haskill Creek, and Walker Creek. Monitoring equipment. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Surveyor. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

Turbidimeter. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

levels, or the amount of suspended particles in a water sample.

Hydrolab DS5. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute WLI conducts stream gauging on all its monitored streams and the Whitefish River. At each site, water chemistry suites are col- This involves measuring stream stage - the lected according to Montana Department of height of the water surface using a staff Environmental Quality protocols as modified gauge; collecting periodic discharge mea- by WLI. Physical parameters are also col- surements - the volume of water in cubic lected using a multiprobe sonde including; feet per second (cfs), and developing a depth, pH, dissolved oxygen, conductiv- stage-discharge relationship (see Figure 6) to Figure 5. Map of WLI monitoring sites; Photo courtesy ity, resistivity, salinity, oxidation reduction maintain a continuous discharge record. In Mobile LoGIStics Mapping potential (ORP), photosynthetically active 2014, WLI also installed pressure transduc- radiation (PAR) – atmospheric and in-situ, ers to continuously measure water level and and total dissolved solids (TDS). A portable temperature. turbidimeter is used to determine turbidity

Voices of Our Lake 7 Figure 6. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Mike and Lori on Lazy Creek. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute of the lake, using the same protocols and munity is showing great leadership in this re- methods that we use in our monitoring of gard. In the longer term, we all need to come Flathead Lake. This makes for some terrific to grips with climate change. opportunities for comparisons and joint studies. Our winters are changing and with them our snowpack and therefore the hydrology and Whitefish Lake is upstream of Flathead pattern of river inflows. Fire frequencies and Lake. In many ways, it’s a microcosm of severities are changing. All of these changes the issues we face with Flathead – nutri- will impact the supply of water to Whitefish ent management, invasive species, etc. It’s Lake and ultimately the quality of water we an indicator – if something is going wrong all experience there. in Whitefish Lake, eventually it will find its way to Flathead. So we need to work Indeed, a lake is a reflection of its watershed. together! Everyone in the region benefits If the watershed is protected, so is the lake. from recreation in Whitefish Lake, of By protecting it now we can pass it to future JIM ELSER course (swimming, boating, fishing). It’s generations largely in the condition in which 'LUHFWRU)ODWKHDG/DNH%LRORJLFDO also a drinking water supply and you can’t we enjoyed it. This is our solemn obligation. Station get more important than that! However, these benefits may not always be available. I would just like to wish all the residents of I live on the shore of Flathead Lake, about The most immediate threat to Whitefish Whitefish Lake the best as they come to- 50 miles south. My connection to Whitefish Lake is from invasive species and from gether around this incredible resource. Here Lake is via the partnership between the Bio dreissenid mussels in particular. We must at Flathead Lake Biological Station we look Station and the Whitefish Lake Institute. keep these damaging mussels out of the forward to working together to be sure our We support WLI by doing routine sampling Flathead basin – the Whitefish Lake com- lakes stay blue and mussel-free for the near- and far future.

8 Voices of Our Lake Tributary Loading Weather Station Nutrients can be delivered to Whitefish WLI installed a weather station and a wet/ Lake in a number of ways, including tribu- dry bulk precipitation collector in 2007 near tary conveyance, atmospheric deposition, Lazy Creek at the north end of Whitefish groundwater interaction, internal loading, Lake to study general weather conditions or by organisms. Most of the nutrient load- and to document wet and dry atmospheric ing to Whitefish Lake is conveyed by tribu- precipitation, which helps to identify and taries during the spring freshet, when snow describe the influence of atmospheric bulk and ice melt in streams and rivers. loading to water quality.

Figure 7 shows the percentages of phos- The station measures and logs temperature, phorus and nitrogen that came from each relative humidity, rainfall, photosynthetic of Whitefish Lake’s six tributaries and from active radiation (PAR), wind speed, wind precipitation during 2014, the year that direction, and gust speed data. It is not un- WLI refined its methodology for calculat- usual for around 20% of the lake’s nitrogen ing nutrient loading. Nutrient dynamics are and phosphorus budget to come from the important to understand as they are a con- atmosphere. tributing factor to eutrophication.

Figure 7. Whitefish Lake Phosphorous and Nitrogen Loads, 2014. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

At the Weather Station. Photos courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

Chris Ruffatto Lori Curtis

Voices of Our Lake 9 Special Studies Whitefish Lake Elevation

In partnership with Brian Sullivan of F&H Surveying of Whitefish, WLI completed an elevation analysis of Whitefish Lake along with associated statistics for Whitefish Lake spanning the 58 years from 1957 to 2014. Of the 39 years with survey data, 21 years with adequate survey data were used to calculate the mean fluctuation for the lake. The mean maximum high water level for Whitefish Lake over the study period is 3,000.63 ft. The average mean minimum water elevation is 2,997.06 ft.

The elevation analysis was compared to the mean high water elevation used in the lakeshore protection regulations determining that an adjustment was needed. The elevation analysis helps 2nd Creek Intake answer regulatory questions for the City of Whitefish—which annexed the bottom of the lake in 2005, Flathead County which administers the lakeshore protection regulations, Montana DNRC which regulates the state owned lakebed, and private landowners whose property extends to the mean low water elevation.

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The City of Whitefish has a long-standing connection to Whitefish Lake dating back to the City’s incorporation in 1905. The lake has been crucial to the economic success of the City throughout its history from providing a method to transport logs for the timber industry in the early days to providing economic boosting recreational opportunities more recently. It has also played a key role in providing a stable water supply to the City for over a century being the sole source of Whitefish Lake at high water. Photo courtesy Koel Abell water early, and now acting as a supplemen- Whitefish Lake at low water. Photo courtesy Koel Abell tary water source. Currently, there are City owned parks and multiple pieces of City owned infrastructure that come into direct

10 Voices of Our Lake contact with Whitefish Lake. The lake itself Septic Leachate ence some form of failure. Even when prop- was annexed in August of 2005 and now re- Septic leachate contamination was reported erly installed and maintained, septic systems sides within City limits. on Whitefish Lake by the EPA in 1977, the have a finite life expectancy. Many of the Flathead County Sanitarian in 1981, the EPA septic systems around Whitefish Lake are 25 Whitefish Lake was the City’s sole source of in 1984, the Flathead Lake Biological Station to 40-years old, less technologically sophisti- drinking water supply from 1907 until the in 1984, 1986, and 2003, and by WLI in 2012. cated, and have exceeded their roughly 20-25 primary water source was changed to the All of these studies indicated a growing con- year life expectancy. tributaries of Haskill Creek in 1919. Since cern for human health and water quality on that time, the water supply has been supple- Whitefish Lake. There are a growing number Decreasing septic leachate pollution is dif- mented with lake water on an as-needed of examples of lake communities through- ficult because individuals are responsible basis. Due to population growth and a trend out the U.S. that ignored the signs of decline for their own systems. Nationally, over 28 toward hotter and drier summers, the water from septic leachate pollution and that are thousand miles of streams are designated as supply has needed to be augmented with lake now spending millions to attempt recovery “threatened or impaired” because of septic water more frequently in recent history. Cur- from declined water resources. We hope to system failure and sewage pit waste, and rently, an average of 25% of the City’s drink- help protect our community from these con- lakes across the country are suffering eutro- ing water supply comes from Whitefish Lake sequences. phication from septic leachate. Numerous during the summer months (typically July studies show that septic leachate from house- through September). When properly placed, functioning, and hold systems is transported by groundwater maintained, septic systems are designed to through lake-bottom sediments into lake As the population of the City continues to collect wastewater to neutralize contami- water, elevating nutrient concentrations and grow and summers get longer and hotter, nants before they enter ground or surface decreasing water quality and safety. Whitefish Lake will become a more vital water systems. This is particularly important source of drinking water for the City. The where ground and surface water drain to most immediate threat to the lake, and thus water bodies such as lakes. Decomposition the City’s water supply, is the potential for of waste begins in the septic tank and ends aquatic invasive species (AIS) to be intro- in a leachfield after undergoing a series of duced to the lake and ultimately establish treatments whereby wastewater is chemically, reproductive populations. It is imperative to physically, and biologically processed to re- the long-term feasibility of utilizing White- move contaminants. fish Lake as a source for the City’s water supply that everything possible is done to keep Modern septic systems are considered cost- AIS from entering the watershed. The City effective wastewater treatment, however im- currently partners with the Whitefish Lake proper initial system design, impermeability Institute in an effort to prevent AIS from en- of soil, improper soil drainage, incorrect tering the lake. The City has boat inspection vertical distance between the absorption field stations set up at the lake’s two public boat and water table, unsuitable slope, or improp- launches (City Beach and State Park) to de- er maintenance may lead to system failures. tect any watercraft that may be unknowingly Nearly one-fifth—approximately 21.5 million transporting AIS to the lake. These contin- U.S. households—use septic systems. Ap- ued efforts will be critical to preventing the proximately 20% of all septic systems experi- spread of AIS to Whitefish Lake.

Voices of Our Lake 11 WLI has been working on the septic leachate upheld this provision of the constitution. In issue since 2011. We conducted the “Investi- a 1999 landmark decision, MEIC v. Montana gation of Septic Leachate to the Shoreline Area DEQ, the Montana Supreme Court ruled of Whitefish Lake” and reported the results in unanimously that Montanans’ constitutional 2012. Following the publication of the report right to a clean and healthful environment and communicating the results to the public, (Article IX, Section 1) is a fundamental right the City of Whitefish developed anad hoc and one that is intended to be preventative in Whitefish Community Wastewater Commit- nature. tee on which WLI served as technical facili- tators. The Committee further considered Unfortunately, Whitefish Lake has fallen the issue and produced the Whitefish Com- victim to the problems found in Minnesota munity Wastewater Management Plan. ED LEISER lakes. Years of studies by multiple state, fed- 5HWLUHG)RUHVWRU)ODWKHDG1DWLRQDO eral and local agencies dating back to 1977 From that effort, WLI partnered with the )RUHVW6HUYLFH:KLWH¿VK/DNH have determined that our lake is not only at City and the Whitefish County Water Dis- ,QVWLWXWH%RDUG0HPEHU risk, but is showing signs of reaching a tip- trict to raise funds and conduct Preliminary ping point where it is trending toward a con- Engineering Reports (PERs) in two of the As a thirty-year resident of Whitefish living dition in which it is increasingly difficult to five neighborhoods identified as having sep- in near proximity to Whitefish Lake, I have buffer the influx of human caused nutrients. tic leachate concerns. The City also adopted become enamored with that magnificent These nutrients which include phosphorus a 20-year deferred annexation policy for water body. It may be trite or hackneyed to and nitrogen support plant populations that affected neighborhoods. To date, this press- say that clean water is our most precious can stress or kill animal populations. ing social, ecological, and economic issue resource, but regardless, I believe it. Born in remains to be fully addressed. Minnesota, the “land of 10,000 lakes” I saw As recently as 2015, the Whitefish Lake the deterioration of water quality in many Institute prepared a comprehensive study WLI employs a fluorometer when studying of the lakes around the Twin Cities. Over titled Whitefish Area Water Resources Report: septic leachate, which detects the specific time, I realized that the demise of many of A Status of the Whitefish Lake Watershed light spectrum emitted from long wave- the lakes was a result of leachate, the effluent and Surrounding Area. This report further length Optical Brightener Agents (OBAs) from individual septic systems. The only rea- describes the problem of phosphorus and found in domestic cleaning products. When sonable and cost effective solution to restore nutrient loading from human sources. The found in waterbodies, OBAs suggest improp- and rehabilitate these lakes was to connect study included a public survey of Whitefish erly treated wastewater effluent. homes to the local sewage treatment facility. residents which identified septic systems as the greatest concern of all respondents. In my opinion, no individual has the right to pollute our water, including lakes, streams Thankfully there are cost effective solutions and other water bodies. In fact, Article IX to maintaining one of the major threats Section 1 of the Montana Constitution clear- to water quality. For those neighborhoods ly states, “The state and each person shall located near existing sewage treatment maintain and improve a clean and healthful infrastructure, homeowners should connect environment in Montana for present and to Whitefish City Sewage Treatment system. In 2016 a Preliminary Engineering Report Fluorometer. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute future generations.” Court decisions have

12 Voices of Our Lake (PER) was prepared by Carver Engineering Tally Lake will also be used to compare future research to address the problem of leachate from sep- Tally Lake is the second deepest lake in results, allowing WLI to report changes from tic systems. The report analyzed five alterna- Montana and regionally unique due to its outside influences such as development, pol- tives, including replacing old septic systems morphometric (size and shape) attributes lutants, and climate. with new systems. Connecting to city sewage and chemical input (humic matter) from Star treatment was not only the most effective Meadows. Those factors, among others, lead Periphyton is a complex mix of algae, cya- at treating leachate but also the least cost to to a severe depletion of dissolved oxygen at nobacteria, microbes, and detritus that is homeowners. depth throughout the calendar year. WLI attached to submerged surfaces in aquatic eco- is the first to monitor Tally Lake from the systems. Like macroinvertebrates, periphyton I understand that this is a complicated issue. surface to bottom (445 feet). In 2008, a pre- is an important water quality indicator be- Sorting through the science of non-point liminary study was funded by Montana De- cause it is sensitive to and responds quickly to source pollution is a daunting task. Grasping partment of Environmental Quality (DEQ). change and is fairly easy to sample. Periphyton all the physical and biological variables can From 2009 to 2013 work continued via U.S. has long been used as a water quality indicator be overwhelming. To add to all that, there are Forest Service Resource Advisory Commit- in streams and rivers, but no metrics have yet the political and economic aspects. However, tee grants. From 2014 through the present, been developed for determining periphyton when we consider what is at risk, we must research on Tally Lake has been supported by tolerance in freshwater lakes. Thanks to fund- act. Complacency is not an option. WLI members. WLI and project partners will ing provided by the Cadeau Foundation, WLI soon publish a paper on this unique lake. has baseline periphytom information for a better description of the health of Whitefish Lake. Gasoline Constituent Loading and Motorized Biological Communities Research Aquatic Macroinvertebrates such as insects, Anecdotal accounts: WLI has heard from a Watercraft Use Level in Whitefish Lake number of long-time community members This study examined potential public health worms, mussels, and snails, tend to be sensitive—in varying degrees—to pollutants. that have said the rocks along the shoreline risk from motorized watercraft-caused gaso- of Whitefish Lake used to be crisp and clean. line constituent loading to shoreline areas Because many macroinvertebrate community assemblages change with declining water Now, most rocks appear greenish-grey and used for recreation. WLI analyzed the levels fuzzy due to attached periphyton. of BTEX (benzene, ethylbenzene, toluene and quality, they are good indicators of negatively impacted water quality. Existing populations xylene), agents known to cause myriad health WLI—in partnership with the Flathead Lake problems from cancer and birth defects to can also elucidate specific aquatic ecosystem changes such as increases in sediment and Biological Station—conducted a 2016 Mysis nervous system, liver and kidney damage. shrimp study in early September during the Results found high levels of benzene at City thermal pollution. Sampling and identifying macroinvertebrate life allows researchers to low light phase of the lunar cycle. Sampling Beach. WLI concluded that the main mecha- occurred after midnight when Mysis shrimp nism for the high levels of benzene was when set a baseline of water quality from which to measure any changes. Aquatic macroin- (Mysis diluviana) had migrated from the lake a boat owner pulls their transom plug on bottom vertically to the near surface. Mysis the boat ramp, petroleum effluent enters the vertebrates were sampled by WLI in 2015 to determine community assemblages and have had significant adverse impacts on the lake adjacent to the swimming area. WLI Flathead Lake ecosystem, so it is important recommended the installation of a effluent- their relative pollutant tolerance. Thanks to funding from the Cadeau Foundation, WLI that we assess their population densities and collecting catchment system to protect public distribution locally. The Mysis study, when health. The Whitefish City Council approved now has a professionally conducted baseline macroinvertebrate study that helps describe compared to prior studies in the 1980s to pro- financing for the project which was com- vide a necessary update regarding the trophic pleted in 2013. the health of the Whitefish Lake shoreline, and Whitefish area streams. This information status and dynamics of Whitefish Lake.

Voices of Our Lake 13 NATURAL HISTORY have been done by WLI concerning the viability of the lake with ongoing natural Geology and anthropogenic threats. One threat I’ve been aware of concerns septic leaching from orn at the end of the Pleisto- homes neighboring the lake. Although I’m cene Epoch roughly 12,000 not an expert in the field of limnology, I years ago, Whitefish Lake believe it’s our responsibility as educated Bformed from a retreating glacier of the Cor- members of this community to help sustain dilleran Ice Sheet in the Rocky Mountain the natural systems that surround us such Trench, which begins at the Yukon/British as Whitefish Lake. If there’s one thing my Columbia border and extends south into experience and education in environmental the Flathead Valley. When the ice retreated, remediation has taught me is that it’s much one large proglacial lake that contained better to prevent than to treat. Solutions both present-day Whitefish Lake and Flat- exist to mitigate threats to Whitefish Lake head Lake remained. In some places around &/,))&/$5. and maintain a healthy watershed; we should Whitefish—like theAverill’s Viking Creek *HRVFLHQWLVW$OSLQH*HRWHFKQLFDO explore those options now rather than wait to Wetland Preserve—a several meters deep la- try to repair the damage later. custrine (clay) sediment found just beneath Although my perspective of the lake from the surface indicates the existence of a lake Whitefish Lake is an amazing resource, a scientific viewpoint is likely very different however, like any resource, its sustainability environment that existed for thousands of than others, I believe Whitefish Lake is years. Slowly, the two lakes separated and shouldn’t be overlooked. As a native of a keystone to the community that allows Whitefish and someone who appreciates the morainal deposits of glacial till at the south- us to bond over a common interest, the ern and eastern shores of Whitefish Lake importance of the health of our lake, I can’t excitement and beauty the lake offers to us stress enough how significant this matter is now form the boundary of the lake in that all. In recent years, water quality studies area. to our community.

Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com 14 Voices of Our Lake My favorite play times have more recently Fish Species been with our children. The rhythm created Native fish species like bull trout and west- on a paddleboard. That first dive into the slope cutthroat trout first colonized White- waters when it takes your breath away. The fish Lake and flourished in its pristine wa- laughter that motion creates as we splash and ters. Since European settlement, a number of propel ourselves through the mystery. non-native fish introductions have occurred, reducing native species food and habitat. A In the spring when the streets and sidewalks well-intended introduction of Mysis shrimp clear of ice, I’ll jog along the footpaths that in 1968 further led to the decline of native wind along the river and finally pause at City species and dramatically altered the food Beach. I’ll bend down and touch the water. web. Today, the Whitefish Lake food web has Catch my breath. Wipe my face with the cool- reached a new dynamic equilibrium, domi- ness. And breathe. nated by bottom dwelling lake trout and lake whitefish. %5,$16&+277 The most powerful times for me and this lake )RXQGLQJ(GLWRU:KLWH¿VK5HYLHZ have been when my breath has been tight. The world pressing in. The death of a friend. $7LPHIRU5HÀHFWLRQ A baby about to be born. It’s then that I’ll visit the lake by myself, sit on the shore, and listen. The power of Whitefish Lake for me comes The weight of the water will release me from not from its clear waters, but rather from the the pressures in my heart and in my head. I’ll energetic body this ancient basin holds. breathe again, with some understanding of my smallness. 12,000 years ago, our home was deep below 3,000 feet of ice. The Stillwater Glacier One afternoon this past winter I experienced pressed into the Flathead Valley, moving a miracle. A fast, cold hard freeze with no rock. Then 10,000 years ago, Whitefish Lake snow or calm air had given breath to four emerged, created by the glacial moraine that inches of clear solid glass. I moved out from now cups the cool water. the cobble shore at Les Mason in the belly of the lake and gazed straight down to the bot- Over the 24 years since I first saw the lake tom, my head dizzy from walking on water. I and the curves of the mountains above, I’ve moved out further. The cold clarity extended enjoyed the water for the play we create in for miles. the molecules that move from liquid, to solid, to vapor. Some lazy days on a friend’s There is a lesson in the stillness. A reflection motorboat as a younger man. A sunset wa- of our own selves in this body of water. terski. An amorous afternoon with my wife. A midnight ice skate when the ice cracked Whitefish Review is a non-profit art & literary and boomed. journal founded in 2007. Gordy Duvall with lake trout. Photo courtesy Stumptown Historical Society

Voices of Our Lake 15 became even more apparent to me. Whitefish Lake provides an important part of the clean water I use at home and in my business. It provides important year-round recreation opportunities for residents and visitors, supporting many levels of our local economy. It also defines who we are as a community of people who tend to measure their worth by the number of days spent in the natural world. As such, we have to pay constant and close attention to threats to important parts of our community like Whitefish Lake. Bull trout. Photo courtesy U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service Fortunately, threats to the lake are being managed and as they are all human-caused can be avoided. The introduction of the CHRIS SCHUSTROM wrong food source at the wrong time contin- &R2ZQHU*DUGHQ:DOO,QQ ues to pose challenges for native westslope cutthroat and bull trout, but recent habitat Growing up in Whitefish, riding my bicycle protections for important tributaries of to the City Beach or friends’ houses who Whitefish Lake provide hope The possibil- lived on Whitefish Lake to swim, canoe, wa- ity still remains for another train derailment terski and fish were an important part of my along Whitefish Lake, but the work of com- summers. Our house in town was just over a munity groups advocating for train safety mile from City Beach. I was told one day by keep this threat at the front of railroad com- a friend’s father as we waterskied, “not bad pany vision. The challenges posed by aging for a town kid.” It always feels good to be on, septic systems around Whitefish Lake re- or in Whitefish Lake. Water has always been mains, but the Whitefish Lake Institute works an important part of my life. My family ran to document, address, and reduce this threat. the tour boat concessions on St. Mary Lake And, the threat to our water supply infra- (4 summers) and Lake McDonald (13 sum- structure posed by a possible introduction of mers) in Glacier Park for 17 of my first 18 aquatic invasive species such as non-native summers. I even recently discovered that the mussels is real. But, because of the work of original Swedish spelling of my family’s last committed Whitefish residents, groups, and name translates as “lake stream.” the City, they have not gotten into Whitefish

. Fish species found in Whitefish area waterbodies. Courtesy waterbodies. area Whitefish in species found . Fish Lake or the surrounding watersheds. As I became co-owner of a Whitefish business, I also became an advocate for water in Whitefish is a community of advocates for Figure 8 Whitefish InstituteLake our area and Montana, first as President of many good causes, including Whitefish Lake. the Flathead Valley Chapter Trout Unlim- Being informed about the threats to impor- ited and currently as State Council Chair of tant community assets like Whitefish Lake Montana Trout Unlimited. During this time, is important. I encourage everyone to be an the importance of advocacy to protect water- advocate. It makes our community stronger. sheds and water bodies like Whitefish Lake

16 Voices of Our Lake Lake Health Indicator Species - Nature’s CULTURAL HISTORY least 11, and possibly close to 20— based at Barometer various places within the overall tribal territory. From native inhabitants to early settlers, One of the tribe’s largest bands was called the Native bull trout and westslope cutthroat the people of Whitefish have depended trout are important barometers to aquatic 4MᇏFULɮNTÍJᆷU, meaning People of the Broad on the abundance of natural resources Water, in reference to the waterbody known in health because of their long evolutionary to sustain and build this community. history in the area and their survival and English as Flathead Lake. In Salish it is called European settlement around Whitefish Lake ÌȤᇏ©ULɮ (Broad Water). adaptation through natural disturbance re- represents only about 1% of the lake’s historic gimes such as glaciations, floods, fires, and timeline, yet some of our activities like the The2ᆗJTQ© were known for their unique, droughts. Bull trout are federally listed as construction of the railroad, land clearing, blunt-ended bark canoes, which they used to “threatened” under the Endangered Species shoreline development, recreational pursuits, travel down and up the river system that con- Act, and westslope cutthroat trout are consid- and the introduction of non-native species nected the various bands. Numerous other ered a “Class A Species of Special Concern” have significantly affected water quality and tribes referred to the 2ᆗJTQ© by names mean- through a joint listing developed by Montana the lake’s food web. As we move forward, ing ‘paddlers’ or ‘real paddlers.’ So central Fish, Wildlife and Parks and the Montana this lake-based community must weigh our are canoes and canoeing to the identity of Chapter of the American Fisheries Society. needs and desires against our responsibility the 2ᆗJTQ© that in sign language, the tribe is These two native species require a variety of to galvanize as a voice to protect the lake. indicated by a gesture simulating a paddling cold, clear, complex, and connected habitats stroke. and are subject to myriad human affects from The First People land use activities, and both have suffered By the late 1700s and early 1800s, the loss of from the introduction of non-native species. &Qȥᆨɯᆩɯၚº- Has Mountain Whitefish population due to smallpox and other exotic diseases, combined with increasingly frequent The Whitefish Lake bull trout population From the time the Whitefish Lake and Flat- raids by enemy tribes, forced many tribes— as represented in Swift Creek redd (nest) head Valley area became habitable at the end including the 2ᆗJTQ©—to coalesce into fewer count data show a perilously low population of the last ice age, this has been an important groups. Early non-Indians encountered some level. For the entirety of Whitefish Lake, only part of the aboriginal territory of the 2ᆗJTQ© that were based further upstream in the Flat- around 50 adult fish move up Swift Creek (upper Kalispel or ‘Pend d’Oreille’). White- head drainage system, and others that were each year to spawn placing them at a high- fish Lake is known in the Salish language by a centered further downstream in the Clark Fork risk level for extirpation in the watershed. name of similar meaning: &QȤሗɮመɮ჉º mean- and Pend Oreille systems. The newcomers Researchers from the Flathead Lake Biologi- ing ‘Has Mountain Whitefish.’ therefore came to refer to the upper and lower cal Station indicate that in Flathead Lake, territories encompass all of the Flat- Kalispel or upper and lower Pend d’Oreille. extirpation of some of the native fishes (bull 2ᆗJTQ© head, lower Clark Fork, and Pend Oreille The4MᇏFULɮNTÍJᆷU (People of the Broad Wa- trout and westslope cutthroat trout) in the drainage systems, from the North Fork in Brit- ter) moved their winter camps south into the near future seems possible and recovery of ish Columbia down to the Pend Oreille River Mission Valley, with many of the people based these populations would be difficult given in eastern Washington. Across that vast region, in an area the people had known and utilized strong food web control by the expansive the tribe lived as hunters, gatherers, and fish- from time immemorial, called /ۖᆗ¡4FXȤLɮT non-native lake trout population. ers, subsisting comfortably and sustainably (Raven’s Waters—known in English as Crow here, drawing from a profound material and Creek). spiritual understanding of their homelands. Today, &QȤሗɮመɮ჉º — Has Mountain White- Prior to the introduction of non-native dis- fish — remains a place of great cultural impor- eases in the eighteenth century, tribal popula- tance to the 2ᆗJTQ©. tions were much larger, and the 2ᆗJTQ© were organized in at least many distinct bands—at

17 Westslope cutthroat trout. Photo courtesy capradio.org Voices of Our Lake Board (20 years) and the County Park Board As our family members visit, they are taught (19 years). at an early age to be good stewards. Howev- er, changes made in the name of progress and We now watch our children, grandchildren, economic growth have altered the natural and friends continue to appreciate all that shoreline and affected the clear and pristine the lake offers from our multigenerational- water quality. Commercial expansion, the family home which sits approximately 75 feet steady in and out floatplanes in the summer, from the high water line. Fourth and fifth and more and larger recreational watercraft, generations now enjoy the lake as the “hub” such as “bladder boats” have brought this for family gatherings, and the lake provides clear, mountain lake to questionable water a natural landscape for activities and friend- quality, caused a water safety issue for the ships, instead of the more prevalent, digi- people, eroded its shores, and led to high 0$5&,$6+())(/6 talized experiences available. levels of sedimentation on some beaches. 686$1$%(// Evidence abounds that the lake and lakeshore The lake is one of Whitefish’s “gold mines”! It are in jeopardy. Whitefish Lake has been our “backyard” has brought growth to the area, which in turn since 1955, and what child does not love has supported economic prosperity. For year- We hope that by sharing our love and con- his/her backyard? As part of our childhood round citizens, it provides recreation, sport, nection to the lake it will encourage others to responsibility, we did not mow grass but and beauty. It is also a drinking water source take action to protect the water quality and instead learned to respect and care for the for the city, plus commercial and private shoreline rusticity, which if not maintained, natural beach, shoreline, and clean water. entities. Yet Whitefish Lake did not become will ultimately lead to decreased property In return, the lake offered us swimming, a “gold mine” without early-lake users and values and tourist visitation. We would like to fishing, paddling, waterskiing, ice-skating, current stewards working to sustain its water spread a message of good long term steward- cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. Fam- quality and natural shorelines. Much is cred- ship instead of short term personal gain, and ily members were active in the first lake boat ited to the Whitefish Lakeshore Protection preservation before “progress.” The protec- club and were instrumental in the creation Committee and the Whitefish Lake Institute. tion of Whitefish Lake and its watershed will of a legislative bill to protect the lake in the It is disappointing that there has been a will- benefit generations to come. 1970’s (Senate Bill 175). Between us, we have ingness on the part of some to bend or disre- served on the Whitefish Lakeshore Protec- gard ordinances put in place to maintain and tion Committee (10 years), the City Park sustain this natural wonder.

Abell Family Photo Collage. Photos courtesy Charlie Abell

1818 VoicesVoV ici eses ooff OOuOurur LLaLakeakkee things in your life,” and the lake certainly can only see bottom in winter through the receives a high ranking. ice. The water was always clear year round except at high water and a major wind. The lake is a family heritage, having been associated with us for over 100 years. We have The popularity of the lake for both living fished in it, water skied on it, raced boats on and visiting will continue, along with its use it, and been involved in protecting it through as a drinking water source. I hope our com- the Lakeshore Protection Committee and the munity stories about the lake will encourage Whitefish Lake Institute. the community and resource managers to protect the lake and work to improve its wa- The lake is the community’s most important ter quality. If political decision makers and natural asset! It has attracted visitors since lake users understand the problems, they “First Nation” fished it. Our citizens gain will be more likely to help us in our care for much from our lake – the beauty, recreation, the lake. It is a very valuable asset from all solitude, and water. aspects – from beauty to business. &+$5/,($%(// 5HWLUHG:KLWH¿VK&UHGLW8QLRQ The threats to our lake began as soon as Eu- 0DQDJHU3DVW%RDUG0HPEHU ropean settlers arrived, and they continue :KLWH¿VK/DNH,QVWLWXWH and expand today. From the train load of lake trout to today’s fear of mussels, nature has I’ve lived on Whitefish Lake most of my life. been attacked. The human pollution has been The only time of record not living on the lake lessened in places by the extension of the or calling Whitefish my home was a couple sewer system but is then offset by the contin- of years as a security analyst in Helena. My ued development along the shore. The sport family’s early connection with the lake was a fishing was quite good before the introduc- cabin at Mackinaw Point (I’ve seen maps that tion of Mysis shrimp that destroyed the Ko- called it Abell’s point). Attached is a photo of kanee and the native cutthroat populations. my father and his cousin on the lawn/garden As a result of the over use of the lower part in front of that dwelling. Over the years I’ve of the lake for recreation and lakeshore de- been asked “what are the most important velopment, particularly Monks Bay, now you Young Abells. Photo courtesy Marcia Sheffels

VoicesVoVoiciceses ooff OOuOurr LaLLakeakkee 1199 Whitefish Lake Timeline In the late 1950’s, 40 acres was sold to Big Mountain Ski area since they had already Pre-European Period (Pre 1880) built the Chalet on the property. The Pre-European Period for Whitefish Lake had pristine water quality and a healthy wa- There was a total of 6 logging camps tershed. There was a well-defined native fish established with most being in the Trumbull community without competition from non- Creek area. Western red cedar, white pine, native species. The highest magnitude flood western larch and Douglas fir were harvested. event in recorded history for the Whitefish At that time there was no market for area occurred in 1894, but there was little in- spruce, grand fir, or alpine fir. These cutting creased sedimentation in the lake suggesting standards affected the species of the stands an intact watershed that could buffer natural 521%8(17(0(,(5 we have today. The 1925 fire on the ridge disturbances. &KDLU)ODWKHDG&RQVHUYDWLRQ'LVWULFW between the valley and Haskill Basin created 5HWLUHG)RUHVWHU)+6WROW]H/DQG a much younger stand of tree. This area has Stumptown Period (1880 - 1940) /XPEHU seen much pre-commercial thinning and During the Stumptown Period, initial de- harvesting in the last 30 years. With the interest by the community of velopment of the shoreline and town-site Whitefish in the Haskill and Trumbull Creek Mr. Stoltze came for a visit in 1965 when I (Stumptown) ensued. Construction of the areas it seems appropriate to review the land was a young forester for Stoltze. I was asked railroad occurred along the west shore of the to take him for a tour of the Trumbull and lake (1901-1904). Timber harvesting took ownership history. All of these lands were Haskill areas. We visited many of the old place along the shoreline of Whitefish Lake patent under the Homestead Act between camp sites, at one of which he recalled the and in the Lazy and Swift Creek drainages. 1901 and 1910. F.H. Stoltze began purchasing story of the cook who took after a black bear To access Swift and Lazy Creeks, road build- these land from the homesteaders in 1904 ing occurred in addition to a railroad spur under the State Lumber Company. Access to with the meat cleaver. The harvested areas up Lazy Creek. these lands was to be by a railroad however had very nice regeneration of larch, Douglas only those in the Trumbull Creek area fir, white pine and cedar. Most of the old Multiple non-native fish species were intro- received a railroad. Harvesting began in the railroad grades had so much regeneration duced, most notably lake whitefish in 1915. early 1920’s in the Trumbull Creek area first that is was difficult to walk on them. using the Shay engine and 10 railcars that The most severe fire disturbances to the area Because of the construction of Hungry were in 1910, 1919 and 1926. The sedimenta- were purchased from the Brooks-Scanlon mill in Eureka. Harvesting in the Haskill Horse Dam in the late 1940’s, harvesting on tion rate to Whitefish Lake in the 1930s was Company lands had stopped. There were the highest on record suggesting that early Creek area did not begin until the 1940’s when trucks were more reliable. more logs available than the mills could timber harvest and road development in the process. watershed had an impact on water quality. The original water lines and reservoir for Whitefish were installed in the 1920’s. There So there we stood in 1965 looking at a were no charges for the easements however forest that had no activity for 20 plus years. Mr. Stoltze did want payment for the 20 acres I showed Mr. Stoltze stands of very nice where the reservoir is located. After much regeneration with way too many stems discussion a price of $20 was agreed upon. per acre. I thought without some type of management, they would not produce the

20 Voices of Our Lake wood fiber needed in the future. Mr. Stoltze was a very quiet man and it seemed to me Mysis Explosion Period (1968 - 1980) that I had done all the talking that day with Researchers have described the most deter- very little response from him except for the ministic event in the legacy of Flathead Basin camp and railroad stories. waters as the introduction and establishment of Mysis shrimp. Introduced to Whitefish It was time to head back to the mill. Being Lake in 1968, with peak numbers estimated a young person who was too impatient, I to have occurred from 1973-1976, Mysis decided to go for broke and ask Mr. Stoltze shrimp thrust the lake into its most chaotic what he would like me to do with his forest. food web transition to date. Lake whitefish He sat there with his arms folded on his chest and lake trout—both introduced deep water for what seemed like hours but was only species—benefited from the increased forage minutes, and he turned to me and said “Just Whitefish River Log Drive. Photo courtesy McKeen-Gilliland Family base that Mysis provided, while other species manage it as if you owned it.” like introduced kokanee salmon (now extir- pated) and native westslope cutthroat trout Two notable fish introductions occurred suffered. during this time-period including lake trout (1941) and kokanee salmon (1945). Lake trout began directly competing with native bull trout for food and habitat, but remained at relatively low population densities. Ko- kanee salmon started to compete with native peamouth chub, pygmy whitefish, and westslope cutthroat trout, and became the most popular sport fishery in the history of White- fish Lake. The third highest magnitude flood event in recorded history for the Whitefish area occurred in 1964. Mysis shrimp. Photo courtesy NOAA Great Lakes Environmental Research Lab Another top-end fish eating predator, Historic Ice Houses and Rail Cars. Photo courtesy Charlie Northern pike, were introduced to Whitefish Abell Lake in the early 1970s. The second highest Ski Town Period (1941 - 1967) magnitude flood event in recorded history Development expanded around Whitefish for the Whitefish area occurred in 1974. This Lake and in the town of Whitefish during the period produced the first regulatory action Ski Town Period. The community started the designed to protect the lake with the passage slow transition from a railroad and timber of the Whitefish Lakeshore Protection Act economy to a tourism economy as the Big of 1975. Also in 1975, the first cursory water quality study of Whitefish Lake by the U.S. Mountain Ski Resort (now Whitefish Moun- Historic Ski Area. Photo courtesy Whitefish Chamber tain Resort) was established in 1947. of Commerce Environmental Protection Agency (1977) took place.

Voices of Our Lake 21 Glenwood Park flourished but in 1972, The degradation of water and air quality af- the Seelys decided to turn Glenwood into fects all living beings. Pollution is a constant a private homeowners’ association. Lots enemy of quality. It is usually hidden, insidi- were platted and sold, and cabins were ous and difficult to find and eliminate. It removed by a 1982 deadline. The family affects the economy, enjoyment of healthy lived in a remodeled cabin which initially lives, our basic culture and the future of yet had no insulation, was heated by an oil to be born generations. By protecting White- stove, and where water pipes froze in the fish Lake, we protect our quality of life and winter so water had to be carried from that of our community. the lake. An outhouse was used and a root cellar provided refrigeration. The water ',&.$1'-$1(62/%(5* for the house and cabins came from two Forestry Period (1981-2000) 6FLHQFH$GYLVRU\&RPPLWWHH lakeshore pump houses. In 1966, Brad A number of regulatory actions during the :KLWH¿VK/DNH,QVWLWXWH built a lovely home on the lakeshore and Forestry Period heightened protection and (Dick is the retired director of the Flathead Lake it along with one original cabin remain cultural awareness of water quality issues. Biological Station) today at 275 Glenwood Road. The City The Flathead County phosphate ban oc- incorporated the property and installed curred in 1983. Forestry Best Management Brad and Del Seely came to Whitefish in city roads and water lines. In the 1970s the Practices (BMP) became law in 1989. The 1946 with their children John and Jane. So, ownership of the property was transferred Montana Streamside Management Zone why did they leave the comfortable home to daughter Jane and her husband Dick (SMZ) Law took effect in 1991. they had in Helena? Because they had ne- Solberg. We then transferred the owner- gotiated the purchase of Glenwood Park ship to our four children in 2009. However, even with protections in place, summer resort on the shores of Whitefish there was a high amount of timber harvest Lake. Twenty-four split log cabins built In 1987, both Jane and Dick retired and activity in the watershed, second only to the during the early 30s had outhouses, ice moved to Glenwood. The home, beach 1930s. Even with BMP and SMZ protection boxes, wood stoves, screened porches, and and the muchly remodeled cabin (includ- tools in place, the Montana Department of no outside running water. ing a sewer lift station) continue to be the Environmental Quality (DEQ) concluded central focus for family and guest activi- in 2006 that reasonable land, soil, and water For the next quarter century Brad turned ties and shenanigans. Jane quickly became conservation are not always accomplished the camp into a modern facility while Del an advocate of lake quality, serving for by using only these tools. directed the weekly maid duties for the 13 years on Whitefish City/County Lake- summer-only guests, washed all the laun- shore Protection Committee, and Dick has BMPs are land management practices that dry in a wringer washer, dried them on served on the Science Advisory Commit- provide a degree of protection for water outside lines, ironed them on a mangle, tee for the Whitefish Lake Institute. The quality, but they may not be sufficient to and she kept track of the charges from the importance of Whitefish Lake water qual- achieve compliance with water quality stan- guests and the gas pump and pop sales. ity cannot be overstated. Life itself is im- dards or protect beneficial uses. Therefore, Jane and John skied in winter and spent mediately dependent on two factors: water reasonable land, soil, and water conservation hours each summer day in the lake, while and air. In various time dimensions ALL practices generally include BMPs, but addi- also tending to chores assigned by their biological creatures die without both. tional measures may be required to achieve parents. compliance with water quality standards and restore beneficial uses.

22 Voices of Our Lake During this period there was also increased Department of Natural Resources and Con- I am fortunate to live five miles, a mere shoreline development and an ever in- servation, Weyerhaeuser, The Trust for Pub- 15-minute drive, from Whitefish Lake. I creasing pressure by recreational users on lic Land, and the Bonneville Power Admin- pass its shores as I drive to work at White- the lake. The first comprehensive study of istration was nearing finalization to protect fish Mountain Resort. When I’m out on the Whitefish Lake occurred in 1982-1983 by a over 16,000 acres in the Swift Creek and Lazy mountain in the winter, summer and fall I master’s student at the Flathead Lake Bio- Creek drainages through the placement of can admire it from above, a view few resorts logical Station. easements and by directly purchasing lands. can offer. It’s no surprise that our guests, Recreation like our community, find ways to enjoy their Protection Period (2001 - Current) time on both the mountain and Whitefish Beginning in the Protection Period, forest In addition to providing drinking water, Lake. The two simultaneously set us apart harvest activities slowed and nutrient con- Whitefish Lake is a popular recreational lake, from other destinations while bringing us centration levels in streams decreased. Lake offering swimming beaches, picnic areas, and together to recreate and unwind with family trout have become the dominant fish species launch sites for both motorized and non-mo- and friends. in the lake. Native bull trout and westslope torized boating, as well as winter sport activi- cutthroat trout populations also have stabi- ties such as ice fishing, skiing, snowshoeing Just as long winters are best enjoyed by ski- lized but at much lower levels compared to and ice skating. City Beach is a popular gath- ing the slopes of our resort, the long days of their historic baseline. ering place with its peak use during summer summer warrant spending time on the lake. months. Personally, I can’t think of any better way to Research, management, and regulatory mea- cool off on a hot day than to sit in a beach sures to protect water quality ramped up in chair with my feet in the water and a beer this period. A Habitat Conservation Plan in my hand. I love looking across the blue (HCP) was completed for the lands of the waters at the distant shoreline with the treed Stillwater State Forest. HCPs effectively build mountain slopes and hearing the lapping of upon SMZs and BMPs with additional layers the water on the sand. of protection such as increased buffer zones and specific road building requirements. Whether standing on our slopes overlook- ing the lake, or sitting in a boat looking up at The Flathead Lake Biological Station re- the mountain both scenes define Whitefish’s turned to Whitefish Lake through the years most attractive attributes as well as a sense to build upon their historic data set, and the of place. Whitefish Lake is why the first residents chose to settle here, it’s the town’s Whitefish Lake Institute, founded in 2005, DAN GRAVES namesake, and it’s the reason many of us live began long-term, baseline monitoring of the 3UHVLGHQW &(2 here. lake and all its perennial tributaries. :KLWH¿VK0RXQWDLQ5HVRUW As much as I am committed to the longevity The City of Whitefish passed the Critical I’ve always been drawn to water. This con- and success of Whitefish Mountain Resort, I Areas Ordinance (2008) which was renamed nection stems from growing up and living am equally compelled to support the future the Whitefish Water Quality Protection near the Pacific Ocean. The open expanse of a and sustainability of Whitefish Lake. It’s Ordinance (2012). In 2018, the Whitefish large body of water is alluring and relaxing to been an attraction for decades, and we want Lake Watershed Project, a project between me. Whitefish Lake gives me the opportunity to make sure that it remains that way. Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks, Montana to reconnect to the ocean that played a special role in my youth.

Voices of Our Lake 23 Whitefish City Beach. The beach property ally and economically. Beaches littered with was acquired in 1903 as part of the City’s sharp shells, clogged water lines, and de- original plat. Located near the lake’s outlet, creased tourism are all impacts that threaten the beach is one of the most popular public our lake, town and livelihoods. access points. As you can expect, the beach is a buzzing place in the summer, with large Even with the daily visits to the beach, the boats and family vans jockeying around a scenery never gets old as the light mixing normally quiet neighborhood to find a place with the sweeping views of water, mountains to park. and sky never fails to impress. The sounds of motor boats in the summer on the lake are My visits to the beach these days are not for quite different than the muffled sounds of &$5/$%(/6., recreating, but for protecting. Armed with gliding through snow in the winter. But for &RPPXQLW\6HUYLFHV&RRUGLQDWRU a flashlight, small mirror and a sharp eye, many, the hours spent on the lake provide &LW\RI:KLWH¿VK Beach Rangers provide boat inspections to a solace and relief from busy, stressful lives. prevent aquatic invasive species infestations We can all do our part to protect Whitefish Swish. Swish. Swish. The sound of gliding in our lake. Aquatic invasive species can be Lake from AIS and preserve Whitefish Lake’s through light powder is the only noise ac- non-native plants, animals or pathogens beauty, health and recreational opportunities companying me across the vast white, open whose introduction causes economic or that we all enjoy. space besides the patter of my dog, Jute, environmental harm, or harm to human running beside me. The ski across Whitefish health. Of special concern are aquatic inva- Lake had become our daily ritual since mov- sive mussels, which were first documented in ing to town. It was the winter of 1996-97, a Montana in late 2016 east of the Continental very snowy winter for the Flathead Valley, Divide. and Whitefish Lake was prime for skiing. Hitchhiking in the nooks and crannies of a The daily excursions twenty years ago across boat engine or hull, adult mussels can travel the frozen surface of Whitefish Lake was the undetected to infest another lake. An even beginning of a deep bond with this special more elusive threat, is the larval stage of the place. Whether ice skating or skiing in the mussel which can be transported from an winter, kayaking and swimming in the sum- infected waterway to a clean lake in bilge mer, the lake has always been a favorite place water or ballast tanks. To defend Whitefish to play with my family and reconnect with Lake, my team of rangers work diligently, of- STELLA HOLT the outdoor world. That is what Whitefish tentimes crawling on their bellies, to inspect &R2ZQHU*UHDW1RUWKHUQ&\FOH Lake is for a lot of people – an amazing place boats and ensure they are free of mussels and 6NL to recreate. standing water. I was born and raised in Whitefish, moved Today I have created a new ritual with What could a tiny mussel, the size of your away for college and quickly returned upon Whitefish Lake. Every morning in the sum- pinky fingernail, possibly do to our large, graduation to replant my roots in our beauti- mer, I jump on my bike and ride a half- pristine lake? These tiny mussels have proven ful valley. My partner, Willie Hobbs and I dozen blocks to the oldest park in town, to be detrimental ecologically, recreation- own and operate Great Northern Cycle &

24 Voices of Our Lake Ski in downtown Whitefish and we live just one block back from Whitefish Lake. Living in Whitefish has shaped who I am through great appreciation for the outdoors and the communities that enjoy time in the mountains or on the trails. I can be found on two wheels throughout the summer, either riding my mountain bike around Whitefish Lake via the Whitefish Trail or on my road bike heading out on East Lake Shore Drive or climbing up the Going- 6211< .,06&+,(5/ To-The-Sun road. &R2ZQHUV3DGGOH¿VK6SRUWV Regardless of whether I’m riding near the We have enjoyed Whitefish Lake since start- lake or in the opposite direction, my rides ing to vacation here in the late 90s. We almost always finish at City Beach or Les moved to the area in 2006 and founded Mason for a quick and refreshing swim or Paddlefish Sports in 2012. Loving lakes is a for my favorite view of the sunset on a July way of life for us, having grown up in central evening. Wisconsin, an area full of lakes. Floating, swimming, fishing, paddling, just relaxing Recreation in and around Whitefish Lake is are all things we value the lake for personally, incredibly important to me for personal en- all year round. Professionally, we’re happy joyment but also for the visitors that stimu- and proud to be able to provide convenient, late my business. While I have the pleasure affordable paddleboard and kayak rentals to of enjoying our mountains and lakes year locals and tourists alike, enabling people to Paddleboarding. Photo courtesy Kim Schierl round, many of the people I see daily in my easily enjoy the lake. shop are only visiting our area for a short Boating has a long and storied history on time and are always in awe of the beauty of The lake is a place to gather, to exercise, to Whitefish Lake. As early as 1904 one of the th this valley. For them, Whitefish Lake is cen- have fun, and to create memories. Water it- first boat races was held, and on July 4 , tral to recreation plans and in understanding self is very nurturing, it soothes the spirit and 1907, the first powerboat race took place on our landscape and community. stokes the soul! It’s a beautiful place to begin the lake. The Whitefish Launch and Boat or end your day. Club was organized in 1908, paving the way It is so important for us to continue to learn for the formation of the Whitefish Lake Boat about and in turn educate users of this in- There are many possible threats to our lake: Club in the 1930s. The 1934 Whitefish Lake credible resource as we all depend on the AIS, railroad spills/accidents, home septic Regatta was the premier boating event on open access to the clean water in close prox- leaching, and over commercialization. I feel the lake and the longest-running powerboat imity to our small town and the activities that it is better to be proactive in our care of race in the United States before the event was that have drawn us to the area. the lake and its surrounding areas than to try anchored into the history books some six and clean up after-the-fact and fix something decades later. which perhaps cannot ever be the same.

Voices of Our Lake 25 1908 and the Whitefish Lake Boat Club in Whitefish Lake and strongly supports all ef- the mid-1930s. The Whitefish Lake Regatta, forts to keep our lake free of invasive species. the longest running power boat race in the Hopefully, with proper vigilance and contin- Untied States, began in 1934 and ran for 60 ued leadership of the Whitefish Lake Insti- years. During the post war years, recreational tute and the City of Whitefish, we can main- uses of the lake took off. Hutchuck Boat tain an AIS free lake for decades to come. Works began building boats in 1946 in what is now the Downtowner Hotel. Over their decade of operation, it is estimated that they produced around 1000 boats for distribution across the Pacific Northwest. TIM SALT 2ZQHU(GJH(ႇHFW In 2013, the Big Sky Chapter of the Antique :KLWH¿VK0RQWDQD and Classic Boat Society (ACBS) held its first classic wood boat show on Whitefish Lake. My story may be different than most. I have It seemed a fitting way to honor the long his- not lived in Whitefish all my life and I do not tory of wood boats on Whitefish Lake. The live on the lake. My personal history with event, which marks the unofficial beginning the lake and with boating for that matter, is of summer in Whitefish, has evolved into rather recent. My wife, Deb and I took up the premier classic boat event of the Pacific .2(/$%(// residence in Whitefish in 2002. The lake was Northwest. It is a signature event on the 'LUHFWRU3URMHFW(QJLQHHULQJ9,=1 certainly one of the many amenities in the Whitefish summer calendar, attracting award (QHUJ\,QF area that convinced us that Whitefish was the winning boats from across the Norwest and Canada and drawing crowds of over 1000 place to retire and spend the rest of our lives. Thanks to my parents, my brother and I had spectators. The draw; a beautiful setting, a But, like many in the community who do not a childhood second to none. Having both first class venue at the Lodge at Whitefish live on the lake, we were limited in our abil- grown up on the shores of Whitefish Lake Lake, pure clear water and good old fash- ity to take advantage of this outstanding re- themselves, they understood the benefits of ioned Whitefish hospitality. source. In 2010 we purchased our first classic raising a family in Whitefish. wood boat, a 1955 Chris Craft Continental Hardtop, to enjoy Whitefish Lake. The future of the lake, and therefore, the event is in peril. Aquatic invasive species, Our early years were spent in Monks Bay, and then during our school years we lived at Whitefish Lake has a long and rich boating especially zebra mussels, pose a tremendous the mouth of the Whitefish River. Starting history. Turn of the century settlers used threat to our lake and to Whitefish Woody at an early age, my brother and I took full boats primarily for utilitarian purposes like Weekend. AIS endanger the pristine waters advantage of our surroundings. We did fishing and transportation. Early passenger that are classic boat habitat. A mussel infesta- everything from swim, canoe, sail, skate, fish, boats took patrons to dances, picnics and tion in a 60-80 year old motor would destroy ski and even raced boats at over 100 mph on other celebrations at the pavilions around the engine and greatly devalue the classic the lake. the lake. The first power boat race took place boat. The fear of encountering invasive spe- on Independence Day in 1907. The White- cies would deter boat owners from outside Of the great times spent on the lake, there’s fish Launch and Boat Club was organized in the valley from participating. The classic boat community is committed to protecting no question my most important moment

26 Voices of Our Lake was being married on it. My wife and I were lake or picnics along the shore. By enforcing married on a boat in Mackinaw Bay; a place the decibel law, we could find a better with special meaning as it was just a stone’s balance for those seeking solace along the throw away from my grandfather’s childhood lake. cabin on Mackinaw Point. Finally, one of the main reasons Montana My earliest memories of swimming in Code 75-7-208 was established was to Monks Bay were with my father and uncle. ensure the natural and scenic values of My brother and I would follow them from lakes and lakeshores. It is my opinion that rock to rock all the way to the sand bar. Now, the local governing bodies are failing in due to suspended sedimentation from the this respect. I’m not aware of any shoreline Lazy Bay, Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com abundance of large boats planning in the gravel application in recent years being Land Ownership shallow bay, one could swim directly over denied by anyone other than advisory Land ownership in the Whitefish Lake Wa- a rock and never see it. I would like to see boards. The sand initially deposited on tershed includes public and private lands and Monks Bay be a no-wake zone for all boats City Beach has transformed down-current a variety of protected lands. Over 50 percent over 15 hp. beaches from natural gravel to completely of the land ownership is public including sand-covered. Other private beaches are more than 40,000 acres of Montana State Bladder boats are also wreaking havoc with altering their natural shorelines from rock or School Trust lands. Most of the State Trust shorelines and small boats, not to mention silt to unnatural gravel. It is important as a land is in the northern half of the watershed, their ability to house AIS. A solution would community that we instill value in sustaining with some parcels reaching down to the be to require a maximum planing distance of the lake’s natural and diverse shorelines and north end of Whitefish Lake. Over 15,000 no more than 100 yds. for all boats. work to uphold this code. acres of United States Forest Service (USFS) land lies in the north and along the eastern No one in my family has previously Though my wife and I have no children, I’m boundary, particularly to the northeast of witnessed such low water levels of the nonetheless concerned that the wondrous Whitefish Lake, and at higher elevations. lake (see attached picture). I’ve heard the opportunities our precious and pristine lake evaporation excuse, and though the climate granted my family, will not be here for other The public land includes two state parks has certainly changed, I wonder given to the families and future generations. I’d hate to managed by Montana Fish Wildlife & complexity and variability of the calculation, think what the current state and health of Parks—Les Mason on the east shore and if the cause could be increased water use; our lake would be like today were it not for Whitefish Lake State Park on the lower west such as irrigating two golf courses and an two local groups. The first was a handful of shore. Flathead County has two small parks ever-growing city population. A simple local lakeshore owners who came together on Whitefish Lake. One is an unimproved evaporation monitoring station would help in the mid-1970’s and the result was a new boat launch with parking off Del Rey Road at investigate this question. Montana law that allowed for the creation of the north end of the lake, the other is a walk- our local Whitefish Lakeshore Regulations. in site off Birch Point Drive on the southwest Noise pollution from boats with speakers The second of course is the Whitefish Lake end of Whitefish Lake. Large private lands and live bands or DJ’s at beach side events Institute. include acreage owned by Weyerhaueser no longer allow for peaceful activities on the and by F.H. Stoltze Land and Lumber. The remaining acreage is privately owned and includes urban, suburban, and rural lands.

Voices of Our Lake 27 convert to Judaism. After over a year of the sky, we felt safe. We felt at home and at Jewish studies and observance, three adults peace. were ready for conversion. We scheduled a ceremony for late August, invited local rab- The last spiritual gift the Lake gives us is the bis from Whitefish and Missoula to form a opportunity to immerse at any time with the rabbinic court, and we gathered at the lake. intention of spiritually cleansing our souls. After fully immersing in Whitefish Lake, so A few of us gathered at the Jewish New Year. that the water covers every part of a person’s We went out to a private corner of the lake, naked body, and uttering blessings, a person talked about our past year and the emotional converts to Judaism. dross we hoped to shed. We shared our hopes and dreams for the new Jewish year. )5$1&,1(526721 There was some trepidation in our party that And then we jumped in the lake. Covered in 5DEEL*ODFLHU-HZLVK&RPPXQLW\ day in the middle of the lake. The water was blessings. And not much else. %¶QDL6KDORP a bit chilly! We sought out a private spot on the lake for our religious skinny-dippers. As Whitefish Lake —a spiritual center for the I witnessed my students and friends immers- Jewish community ing in Whitefish Lake, I was overwhelmed with gratitude for the sacred gift of this A Jewish community doesn’t require much. clean, pure, natural resource. With the as- We don’t even need a building. The Glacier sistance of the lake and the blessings of our Jewish Community/B’nai Shalom is the Jewish community, we were able to guide Jewish congregation in the Flathead Val- these three souls to the next stage of their ley meeting at various locations throughout spiritual lives. the area. According to the ancient rabbis, though, a Jew is not supposed to move to a The most popular event on our calendar is community that does not have a “mikvah,” the annual Sabbath gathering at Whitefish or a place in which one can perform ritual Lake. We grill kosher hotdogs. Everyone immersions. brings a dish to share; and we gather together to sing Hebrew blessings over wine In Jewish tradition water is a source of sanc- and bread to start the Jewish Sabbath at our tity. Jewish people immerse in “mayim hayy- “ShabbaBQ”. After the winter of 2016/17 and im” or “living waters” for spiritual cleansing. neo-Nazi cyberattacks on our community, Whitefish Lake fulfills the requirements of a many Jews were afraid to gather in public. mikvah. It is a body of water coming from a Nonetheless, in the summer of 2017, fifty natural spring, hence “living water”. In many members of the Jewish community came ways, Whitefish Lake has become a spiritual together in the shelter of a gazebo, on the center for our Jewish community. shores of Whitefish Lake. As we stood at the shore of the lake and watched the exquisite When I first moved to the area, I was ap- sunset paint orange and pink streaks across proached by a few people who wanted to Whitefish Lake sunset. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

28 Voices of Our Lake WATERSHED STEWARDSHIP ospreys are gone. So are the aquatic “flower number of diverse stewardship We knew we wanted logs. The dream I had beds” of delicate water lilies in Lazy Bay. I be- efforts are reversing a trend of had since a young girl was to someday live lieve that we must all be stewards of this lake. significant land fragmentation and in a log cabin. In 1991, we built our palace We must temper our need for cheap thrills. Aare helping to preserve the natural landscape on the north end of Whitefish Lake. The Churning up the water and thereby destroy- and keep open vital connections to seasonal kids were young then and they named our ing the flora and fauna is not acceptable to ranges for wildlife throughout Northwest cabin “Peaceful Palace.” The name was fit- me. Boom boxes blare insults to our ears and Montana. The health of the Whitefish Lake ting. It was modest but spectacular. The set- scream to the lake “I don’t care about you.” It Watershed depends on an active and engaged ting made it so. The warmth of the logs, the breaks my heart. Our precious lake will only community that balances growth with a req- hand chosen rocks for the fireplace and the survive if we can return to a sense of rever- uisite level of natural resource protection. beautiful reflected light off of the lake made it ence for it. Whitefish Lake is the end-point to its water- “Grand” indeed. shed and serves as a barometer of our actions Stewardship Partners Past and Present and land management decisions. Our history The lake was sacred to us. We did not believe Throughout the history of Whitefish, dif- with Whitefish Lake provides many lessons in motorboats. Our flotilla was made up of ferent groups with various missions have of activities not worth repeating. At the same two kayaks, a beat-up red canoe and my row- formed to address water quality issues. Some time, there have been a number of commu- ing scull. Ahhh, let me tell you about my pre- organizations were more successful than oth- nity leaders, groups, and management agen- cious scull. It was sixteen feet of perfect har- ers, but the underlying theme is that there cies focused on protecting the lake. Now is mony. When I was in sync with my body and have always been citizens actively interested the time for a renewed stewardship ethic to breath I felt as if I were flying. I would wake in protecting the aquatic resources around reaffirm the value of the lake to us all. up early before the motor boats and “fly” Whitefish. Examples of such groups and to the north end of the lake to Lazy Bay. I their formation dates include the Whitefish would then rest my wings on the out-rigging Businessmen in 1907, the Whitefish Launch and drop into the morning stillness. & Boat Club in 1908, Whitefish Rod & Gun Club in 1910, Whitefish Outdoors Unlimited I have experienced moments of profound joy in 1967, Whitefish Basin Project in 1981, in my life but few compare to those mornings Whitefish Lake Advisory Group in 1998, where I could not discern separation from Swift Creek Coalition in 1999, WLI in 2005, my body, lake or sky. We were one. and Whitefish Water Quality Advisory Com- mittee in 2007. So the lake is part of me even though I no longer live in the “Peaceful Palace.” The lake, Beyond WLI, there remain a number of the creatures, the morning light will rest in groups active in protecting water quality. my soul forever. They include the Whitefish Lakeshore Pro- tection Committee which formed as a result I am concerned about the health of the lake. of Senate Bill 175 in 1975 (at the same time A common companion for me on those quiet as the Natural Streambed and Land Preser- 68()/(7&+(5 mornings were the osprey and bald eagles. I vation Act of 1975). The new law’s purpose 5HWLUHG*HRORJLVW:KLWH¿VK/DNH would watch in awe their fishing skills and was two-fold: (1) To conserve and protect ,QVWLWXWH%RDUG0HPEHU aerial acrobatics. The eagles remain but the Montana’s natural lakes and their scenic and recreational values; and (2) To provide local

Voices of Our Lake 29 governing bodies with adequate statutory perpetuity while allowing the landowner to power to protect lake areas. With minor continue owning and managing their prop- modifications, those regulations were later erty. If the land is in production, the owner adopted by the County for all Flathead may continue to produce crops, hay, live- County lakes. The Whitefish County Water stock, timber, and other commodities. Ease- District formed in 1982 by public vote of a ments vary based on the landowner’s intent, 4-1 margin in favor of creating a district to but they typically restrict certain activities protect local water quality. such as subdivision for residential or com- Photo courtesy Whitefish H.S. FREEFLOW mercial activities, surface mining, and toxic The Whitefish School District Project waste dumping. The key organizations man- FREEFLOW Whitefish Lake is a beacon. aging conservation easements in and around (Flathead River Educational Effort for Fo- A basin of memories, the Whitefish Lake area are Montana Land cused Learning in Our Watershed) formed Nestled in the hills, Reliance, Montana Nature Conservancy, in 1993 has a mission to provide an opportu- Guarded by the mountains, Flathead Land Trust, and the Trust for Public nity for students to collect scientific data in Loved by our people. Land. the area of surface and ground water quality; and to offer an avenue for volunteer students We flock to it, Averill’s Viking Creek Wetland Preserve to go beyond the science classroom and ob- We rely on it. WLI owns and manages 28.82 acres of im- tain field science skills on natural resource We cherish it, portant water-cleansing wetlands and wildlife issues. And it sustains us. habitat, protecting it from development and enhancing Whitefish’s outdoor amenities. The Friends of Blanchard Lake formed in Whitefish Lake is The Preserve was gifted to WLI by the Dan 1999 to protect and preserve water quality The heart of our town … Averill family in 2009 as part of the Viking and natural resources, including wildlife Ripples on the turquoise surface, Creek Development proposal. The primary habitat and fisheries, within that geographic Emerald droplets on hot rocks, function of this wetland is water quality area appurtenant to Blanchard Lake, its wa- Long days in the sun, and buffering and wildlife habitat. Since Viking ter sources and drainages. The Haskill Basin Cool evening dips. Creek—one of Whitefish Lake’s six tributar- Watershed Council formed in 2000 to main- It is ies—and the groundwater of the area drain tain and enhance the chemical, biological Warmth, directly into the lake, water quality buffering and physical integrity of Haskill Creek by a Unity, is vitally important. This publicly accessible voluntary and cooperative effort. Diversity, Preserve is an excellent example of how citi- Protected Lands Peace, zens and developers can work together to Comfort, protect the health of the watershed, to pro- Several ecologically important areas of land Solitude, vide open space in the wildland/urban inter- have been protected through a variety of Serenity. face, and to allow for economic growth in the means in and around the Whitefish Lake community. Watershed. Included in these lands are wet- To us, Whitefish Lake is an example of a lands, state trust lands, and conservation remaining vital resource. Living Wetlands Interpretive Trail easements. Conservation easements are a WLI opened the Living Wetlands Interpre- negotiated agreement between a landowner Whitefish High School FREEFLOW tive Nature Trail in the Averill’s Viking Creek and a land trust that protects private land in

30 Voices of Our Lake Michelle and I had initially intended to There are also times when looking out across spend a winter here chasing fresh snowfalls the valley from a high perch on a hillside on Big Mountain, but quickly fell in love—as where one can see the interaction of the so many do—with the vast, forested land- land, the lake, and the bustling communities scape, towering peaks, and vibrant commu- below. It can sometimes seem like human nity. It was also the gift of fresh water—the development is out-pacing preservation. many lakes, rivers, and streams and access to them—that simply felt healthy for the body Intact forest systems that maintain their and for the mind. It was hard to believe that integrity in the face of development help to flowing right through our small town were filter and purify the water that makes its way some of the first waters west of the Continen- to Whitefish Lake and beyond. As Whitefish '$9,'12)76,1*(5 tal Divide - from the snow-covered mountain Lake supports so many natural communities, 9LFH3UHVLGHQW/HDG'HVLJQ tops to our cherished Whitefish Lake. our community must support Whitefish Lake )RUHVWRUDWLRQ and the lands that surround it. Whitefish Lake has been a great source of I grew up in northeast Ohio where green, fun and recreation for our family and friends So often our acts seem small, but they are rolling deciduous forests surrounded sprawl- over the years. We have spent many great cumulative and connected - the many drops ing cities. Steel plants and manufacturing fac- days, swimming, paddle boarding, kayaking, that make up the lake that we love. tories with their giant, coughing smokestacks and catching stunning sunsets over the lake. dotted the skyline in so many towns between Youngstown and Cleveland. The Cuyahoga As I love the water, I also love the land. For River and its tributaries slowly wind their me, emotions can range from intrigue to awe way through this landscape and these com- while moving through our forests - the plant munities until they feed Lake Erie. and animal communities, the silence, the stillness. The Cuyahoga River—polluted by industrial waste—caught fire numerous times Having worked on both the Whitefish Trail over the past century until the fire of 1969 and the Living Wetlands Interpretive Na- helped to spur environmental and water ture Trail, I have had the great opportunity quality initiatives across the country as well to transect large portions of the watershed as the creation of the Environmental Protec- and its many drainages that surround and tion Agency. Water quality has improved feed Whitefish Lake - the high country, the and aquatic life has returned, yet challenges low country, Lazy Creek, Swift Creek, King, remain. Bear, and Taylor Creeks, the Beaver Lakes complex, seeps in hillsides and unexpected Though my relatives and heart are still in dimples in the landscape that act as watering Ohio, Whitefish, Montana has been my home holes and support diversity in the adjacent for the past 15 years. My wife Michelle, our plant communities. Figure 9. Living Wetlands Interpretive Nature Trail. Courtesy two children, Xochyl and Solas, and I reside a Whitefish Lake Institute few blocks from downtown.

Voices of Our Lake 31 Wetland Preserve in 2013. Our goal in de- called Viking Lodge. Many times the beavers veloping this trail and making it available to dammed it up and it ran over the road. the public, is to share the history, science, and beauty of the wetland, and to provide My family owned the land north of the Vi- a glimpse into the lives of the wildlife with king Lodge parking lot and Reservoir Road which we share this habitat. The trail of- was dirt. The whole property was fenced. My fers the closest outdoor natural experience Grandparents and Bill Murdock ran about for Whitefish citizens and visitors, extends 60 head of Hereford cattle together and we natural resource education offerings, and would herd them with the horses from the enables connectivity to the City of Whitefish Murdock place (now Iron Horse) over to our bike and pedestrian Path, Crestwood Park, property. Yes, ON Wisconsin and Reservoir The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, and the Viking and all over the place on the way. The cattle Creek subdivision. were free to wander most of the property according to haying season. There was a huge Battin Nature Conservancy 6+$5/27%$77,1 hay barn in the middle of the field that is The 215-acre Battin Nature Conservancy 2ZQHU0RQWDQD/HDWKHUZRUNVDQG bordered by Crestwood on the west and now Easement borders the Whitefish Lake Insti- *UHDW1RUWKHUQ%RRW2ZQHU%DWWLQ Hidden Meadow on the south, only there tute’s Preserve on its north and east sides. The 1DWXUH&RQVHUYDQF\(DVHPHQW were no neighbors back then. We used work easement and the wetland provide a large horses as well as a collection of tractors to do contiguous area that protects water quality the farming. I am a second generation Whitefish resident. and provides habitat for aquatic, terrestrial My grandparents homesteaded in Eastern and avian wildlife in the heart of Whitefish. I had friends on Monk’s Bay and other parts Montana and came here to work on the of the lake. We spent most of every summer Great Northern. A lot of the old places and day waterskiing and wading around in the events dim or disappear with age and 71+ mud and weeds at the east end of Monk’s bay years of mileage, but I do remember that the or diving off whatever structure was avail- area where Crestwood was built belonged to able in the deeper parts of the lake. There Maggie Murdock; yes, of the Murdock dairy were fires on the beach, picnics, peace, and where Iron Horse is now. We put up hay on quiet. The biggest boats were Hinderman’s the acres that weren’t total swamp land. ‘Vi- and Landau’s Chris Craft inboards—no jet king Creek’ was in a different channel and it skis. For the most part it was quiet, safe, and didn’t have that name. But it was, and is, all heavenly. City Beach and Bay Point were also swamp on the east side of Wisconsin to Res- totally accessible to all us crazy kids. I spent ervoir Road. I believe it was called Creek 1 the first few years of my life a block from or 2 on the old maps. But as ‘it’ runs through City Beach. my property directly from the Whitefish Res- ervoir, we knew it as Reservoir ‘run off.’ It is Thirty years ago my Grandmother put an controlled by some valve or other behind the easement on most of our property with The fence up there. It ran under Wisconsin Ave Nature Conservancy, which comes with a lot as well as UNDER what became the A frame of restrictions to which we are required to Kellor Sawtelle on Wetland Trail. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

32 Voices of Our Lake adhere. With ‘progress’ and much ‘develop- state and federal government, the Trust for quality issue or an AIS sighting. Through the ment’ the character of the area has changed Public Land bought the land from Weyer- work of the volunteers in the program, lake considerably. It is becoming increasingly diffi- haeuser and then Montana Fish, Wildlife and data is collected and an annual report is pre- cult to maintain the property and natural wa- Parks purchased a $15.5 million conserva- pared detailing the health and status of these ter movement. The unobstructed views, never tion easement on the land. The Department lakes. To date there are over 40 volunteers to be developed have generated higher real of Natural Resources and Conservation monitoring more than 50 sites on 40 lakes. estate values, but few people in the area seem then purchased the land, with its easement, to be concerned about the course or quality of from the Trust for Public Land to add to the water flowing always into Whitefish Lake. the Stillwater State Forest. Two additional conservation projects in the area are still Haskill Creek Watershed in progress—3,000-acres of the Lazy Creek The City of Whitefish, Montana Fish, Wildlife watershed and 3,000-acres of Swift Creek & Parks, F.H. Stoltze Land and Lumber Co., Watershed. and the Trust for Public Land worked for almost five years on a conservation easement Citizen Scientists project that permanently protects 3,020 acres Citizen scientists also play an important role of land in the Haskill Creek Watershed. This in monitoring and protecting water qual- deal, completed in 2016, was one of the most ity. Citizen science is research or monitor- complex land swaps in the state’s history and ing that is conducted in part or in whole by protects 75% of the City of Whitefish’s drink- nonprofessional scientists. It was born of the ing water supply. The Stoltze family retains concepts that science should be responsive the ownership of the land and the manage- to citizens’ needs and concerns, that citizens ment of their timberlands, while providing were capable of producing reliable scientific permanent recreational access and drinking information, and that citizen volunteers water for the City of Whitefish. In order to could contribute much needed efforts to the complete the purchase of the Haskill ease- body of scientific knowledge. ment, Whitefish City voters overwhelmingly approved a 1 percentage point resort tax in- Northwest Montana Lakes Volunteer Moni- crease resulting in 7.7 million dollars in local toring Network funding. The Northwest Montana Lakes Volunteer Monitoring Network (NWMTLVMN) is a Swift Creek Watershed partnership between Montana Fish, Wildlife The Trust for Public Land and Montana Fish, & Parks and the Whitefish Lake Institute Wildlife and Parks have also protected sig- (www.nwmtlvmn.org). The program mission nificant Weyerhaeuser timber lands north of is to recruit and train citizen scientist volun- Whitefish Lake in the Lazy and Swift Creek teers to monitor water quality, identify and Watersheds. The first of three phases protect- report AIS and promote watershed steward- ed more than 7,000 acres of crucial Whitefish ship in Northwest Montana (Flathead, Lake, Lake Watershed from future development. Lincoln, and Missoula counties). Volunteers NWMTLVMN Volunteer Linda Sawtelle. Photo With funds from private partners and the are generally the first responders to a water courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

Voices of Our Lake 33 The lake is a tremendous source of pride for the aging private septic systems which en- our community … it’s something we all love circle the lake are serious, as are those posed to “show off” when friends and family come by aquatic invasive species such as zebra and to visit, and it’s one of the things that local quagga mussels. employers tout when trying to attract tal- ented workers. In fact, it’s the first place my Whitefish Lake is a critical component of our official “tour guide” took me nine years ago community’s recreation-based economy, it’s when I was thinking about taking the Cham- a primary source of drinking water for the ber job … looking back, that was a pretty City of Whitefish, and it supports a complex slick (and successful) tactic! web of wildlife … on, in and off the water. Our community also feels a tremendous It’s up to us—the folks who live, work and sense of “ownership” in Whitefish Lake, and play here—to protect this valuable resource, a shared responsibility to preserve it in as and pass it down to future generations in as clean, healthy and natural a state as we possi- good—or better—a condition as we found it. KEVIN GARTLAND bly can. The threats posed by leachate from Because that’s the Whitefish Way. 3UHVLGHQW:KLWH¿VK&KDPEHURI &RPPHUFH

At the Whitefish Chamber of Commerce, we brag on our community as being one of the premier places to “live, work and play” in the Northern Rockies … if not the country! And there’s little doubt that Whitefish Lake– a clean, healthy, peaceful and accessible Whitefish Lake—is one of the things that makes this so. Whether we experience the lake from the back porch of our own home or the dockside bar at The Lodge; from the deck of a boat, the edge of a secluded bay or the jam-packed City Beach shoreline on the Fourth of July, Whitefish Lake plays an important part in who we are—and what we stand for—as a community. It’s a critical part of where we live and why we’re here, no matter whether you live on the lake or—like my wife and I— in a downtown neighborhood a mile away. City Beach Dock. Photo courtesy Lisa Gunderson

34 Voices of Our Lake CURRENT & FUTURE CONCERNS filled the entire valley bottom. It makes me ride shower depend on clean water from feel like this whole valley was sculpted by na- Whitefish Lake. ture for our enjoyment. ata shows that Whitefish Lake There are many threats to Whitefish Lake but is nearing a tipping point Whitefish Lake is important to me because it none that we cannot as a community work where, once lost, water quality represents the clean and healthy ecosystem in to minimize the impact. On a local level, Dwill be hard—if not impossible—to restore. which I have the privilege to live, work, and aquatic invasive species, including zebra and Concerns for the lake include biological, play. I am originally from North Carolina quagga mussels, are the greatest short-term physical, and chemical issues. While we have where we do not have natural lakes—glaciers threat to our lake. The outcome of an infesta- little control over some concerns, there are never made it that far south—but we have tion of these to Whitefish Lake would cause others for which we have great governance. dams that create reservoirs. As a kid I grew significant impacts to recreation, the lake’s The vision we provide in responding to the up swimming and paddling on these res- ecology, and potentially eliminate the abil- water quality issues we face today will define ervoirs and saw first-hand the impacts that ity of our city to use the lake as a municipal the legacy we leave for future generations. humans can have on large water bodies. Fish water supply. As a geologist, I tend to think a with too high levels of mercury to eat, algal little longer term than most, and despite the blooms that burn skin of swimmers, trash threat from AIS, I am most worried about and industrial discharge causing horrible the integrity of our lake’s pristine nature from smells to surrounding communities, and oil continued residential development and the spills from pipelines — these were the head- impacts from climate change. Both of these lines I grew up with in the southeast. White- issues will take enormous effort and will con- fish Lake is to me the polar opposite of where tinue for generations into the future. I came from where people don’t value clean water the way our community does. We are so lucky to have such an amazing water resource in town, why squander it Whitefish Lake serves as a primary drink- through poor management and pollution. ing water source for our city. Our breweries, In order to keep our lake healthy, it is im- RYAN RICHARDSON distilleries, golf courses, backyard gardens/ portant to think about the whole watershed. )OXYLDO*HRPRUSKRORJLVW5LYHU farms, and restaurants all rely on our lake All of the water that is in Whitefish Lake has 'HVLJQ*URXS for continued economic growth. Even if you traveled as surface water from creeks that live outside of the city limits and have your feed the lake. The health of these creeks will I live 4.5 miles downstream of the outlet own water sources, you still enjoy the many determine the health of the lake. You can’t from Whitefish Lake. My connection to businesses in our community that depend on maintain a healthy Whitefish Lake without Whitefish Lake is a mixture of professional ample clean water in order to provide good healthy creeks, wetlands, and forests in the and recreational. I am a fisherman and kay- jobs. These businesses are directly impacted watershed. aker turned scientist who works in Whitefish. from tourists visiting our community to see When I moved to Whitefish, after the 14- I love paddling on the lake in my kayak and and interact with the lake and its watershed. hour solo drive, the first thing I did once I swimming with my dog at Les Mason State From motor boating to stand-up-paddle got to town was drove to the lake, got out and Park. In addition to these activities, I enjoy board yoga, everyone loves to interact with just sat in the sunlight and enjoyed the still- thinking about a time when the lake was be- Whitefish Lake. For those of us who live in ness. After a long journey, I finally felt like I ing carved out by glaciers that would have Whitefish City limits, everything from your morning coffee to your post mountain bike had found a place I could call home.

Voices of Our Lake 35 Threats to the lake include over use, over de- Our Lake Our Future: Whitefish Lake Aquatic velopment, and contamination of the water. Invasive Species Management Program Protection of the watershed is critical for the Since 2013, the City of Whitefish has sup- community. Not only does it affect our qual- ported an AIS Management Program as rec- ity of life, is also affects our drinking water, ommended by WLI. The purpose of the pro- and our tourist season. gram is to prevent the transfer of AIS to local waterbodies through various mechanisms, People travel from all over the world to see including; early detection and monitoring, and experience the clear mountain lakes with watercraft inspections, and public education. which we are lucky to surround ourselves. Over time, this program has been successful in preventing the transfer of AIS to local wa- Photo courtesy The Daily Inter Lake Inter The Daily courtesy Photo Whitefish Lake’s connection to the com- terbodies while building a stronger coalition $'(/($1'-())6&+2// munity dates back to early settlement of of partners to prevent AIS from affecting the &R2ZQHUV*UDYLW\VKRWV Whitefish and continues to affect the current ecological integrity of Whitefish Lake, the day community. Through the years, we have municipal drinking water supply, and our lo- I have lived and worked in Whitefish for 24 seen the community and development grow cal economy. years. Whitefish Lake has been an integral around the lake, and Whitefish Lake Insti- part of my recreation and work, although tute continues to study and help preserve the I do not live on the lake. For over 18 years, natural waters. GravityShots has specialized in aerial pho- tography focusing on real estate. Through Biological the years, we have photographed many of the properties on Whitefish Lake. Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS ) In 2016, zebra mussels were found in Mon- In my mind, Whitefish Lake is one of the tana waters east of the Continental Divide. central recreation areas for the community. The rapid spread of these mussels in U.S. Due to its location in town, it is easy to hit water bodies shows how profoundly AIS can The Our Lake Our Future: Whitefish Lake the lake after work for a paddle, float or walk. alter the environment. Human health, eco- Aquatic Invasive Species Management Pro- Looking down on the lake from the ski hill systems, recreation, industry, tourism, and gram is a partnership between WLI, the City is another added connection to the lake. All the economy are all impacted by the pres- of Whitefish and Montana State Parks. It winter you can keep an eye on the lake, as it ence of zebra mussels. Watercraft inspections includes a continuation of an early detection comes in and out of clouds, starts to freeze aid in intercepting vessels and equipment and monitoring effort that has been in place and thaw, while you navigate your route that have the potential to spread AIS and al- since 2013. It also incorporates a robust wa- down the ski hill. low for decontamination, if necessary, before tercraft inspection capability at both White- launching into Whitefish Lake. fish City Beach and Whitefish Lake State The community gains easy access to the crys- Park, a decontamination station for high risk tal clear waters of Whitefish Lake, perfect for Also of concern in the Whitefish Lake Wa- and fouled watercraft, and an online self-cer- a boat ride, skipping a rock, or just an easy tershed are those AIS which have been found tification process for non-motorized, hand- way to relieve the stress of the work week. in the Flathead Watershed (Eurasian water- launched watercraft, early morning anglers, milfoil, curly leaf pondweed, flowering rush, and during the off-season. yellow flag iris, and fragrant water lily).

36 Voices of Our Lake AIS Decontamination Station. Photo AIS Inspections. Photo courtesy Nicky Ouellet Boat Inspection. Photo courtesy Flathead Whitefish Community Foundation Major courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Beacon Grant. Photo courtesy Heidi Desch

The program has garnered support from (EWM) was discovered by the Montana organizations at the state level: the Depart- Department of Natural Resources and Con- ment of Natural Resources & Conserva- servation near the boat ramp on Beaver Lake tion; Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks, and near Whitefish. Beaver Lake is hydrologi- Montana State Parks; the community level: cally connected to Whitefish Lake and there Flathead Chapter of Trout Unlimited, Flat- are numerous methods for the plant to be head Conservation District, Whitefish Com- spread from Beaver Lake to Whitefish Lake. munity Foundation, Whitefish County Water An AIS response team—of which WLI was District, and local businesses: Don “K,” The a member—responded to the discovery for Lodge at Whitefish Lake, Whitefish Marine & further investigation. Bottom barriers were Powersports; and WLI members. placed over the identified patch and a control/eradication plan was developed by a Beaver Lake Story multiple agency workgroup in which the City It is rare to hear of an Aquatic Invasive of Whitefish and WLI participated. Since Species eradication “success story,” but the 2012, WLI and the City of Whitefish have Whitefish Lake Watershed has one of them. Beaver Lake curtain. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute taken the lead in addressing the EWM issue In October 2011, Eurasian Watermilfoil as part of the Whitefish AIS Management

Motor-Encrusted Zebra mussels. Eurasian Watermilfoil. Curly Leaf Pondweed. Photo FragrantWaterLily. Photo Yellow Flag Iris. Photo cour- Flowering Rush Photo courtesy U.S. Fish & Photo courtesy U.S. Fish & courtesy MTWeed.org courtesy WA.org tesy Invasive Species Council, Photo courtesy Wildlife Service Wildlife Service BC KCW.org

Voices of Our Lake 37 Plan. In 2012, 23.5 pounds of EWM was removed through a suction dredging effort and pristine waters of Caroga Lake. We would er. But for me, the changes to my childhood by 2017, 2 plants were removed. This atypical end our long days with my mom’s cooking lake were dismaying. AIS success story is the result of very early celebrating our sense of place with friends and family. In the late 1980s, zebra mussels were intro- detection coupled with rapid and aggressive duced to the United States in the Saint Law- eradication techniques. Because of the real My brothers and I, captained by my father rence seaway. Quickly, the mussels prolifer- threat to Whitefish Lake and the watershed, in the early hours of the morning, would ated to most Upstate New York lakes, and suction dredging will continue indefinitely often row across the lake fishing for small Caroga Lake was no exception. Zebra mus- until there is confidence that the EWM has and large mouth bass. We would dive for sels had dramatically changed the ecology been eradicated. freshwater crawdads where the tumbling of the lake, and combined with failing septic creek entered Caroga Lake. It was a healthy systems, the shoreline that as a child was lake, and we never had a problem bringing once gravel-lined was now masked by algae mom home a hearty meal for her to prep on blooms and zebra mussels. The fishery had the grill. crashed. And the lake water no longer met drinking standards. And not surprisingly, After childhood, I was fortunate to attend the town that was once dependent on tour- college just a few hours west of Caroga Lake ism and recreation was struggling to find a on Seneca Lake in Geneva, New York. I stud- new existence. It was no longer the town I ied water resources and geology, and spent spent my summers enjoying as a child. my college years rowing, swimming and enjoying The Finger Lakes Region. It was an I’m glad I had the opportunity to grow up easy transition, as it reminded me of where I and enjoy the pristine character of my child- spent my summers growing up. hood lake. Proactive measures are now being taken in Upstate New York and around the During my college years, I often reminisced country to reverse the impacts of aquatic about the time spent at Caroga Lake. After invasive species and septic leachate, but the graduation, my friends and I planned a cel- efforts are costly, and oftentimes futile and ebration and gathering at my family’s cabin impactful to local economies. -2+108+/)(/' on Caroga Lake. We packed up our gear, said 3UHVLGHQW5LYHU'HVLJQ*URXS goodbye to our friends, and caravanned two Whitefish Lake is at a tipping point. We can 0D\RURI:KLWH¿VK:KLWH¿VK/DNH hours to Caroga Lake, which I hadn’t visited choose to do nothing or be proactive. As ,QVWLWXWH%RDUG0HPEHU in over six years. a community, we have a legacy of getting things done. We bond together for common Growing up on the Connecticut coast, my I knew first hand living on Seneca Lake causes that focus more on community and father would get off work early on Fridays about the environmental degradation that future generations than on ourselves and and pack up the family station wagon for had occurred throughout Upstate New York short-term gain. Let’s continue this tradition, our weekend getaways to Upstate New York. and New England – the introduction of ze- and ensure we leave Whitefish Lake and our Spending our summers on Caroga Lake in bra mussels, septic leachate contamination, local area waterbodies in the same pristine the Adirondack State Park were perhaps my and acid rain impacts. Our post-graduation state that we found them. fondest childhood years. I would explore the reunion at Caroga Lake was bittersweet. We woods with my brothers, play badminton in were ending a four-year bond that we would the front yard, and swim, sail and snorkel the all miss, and we celebrated our time togeth-

38 Voices of Our Lake trout, but none has caused a more dramatic ond, the shrimp became food for juvenile shift in the food web than the introduction of introduced bottom dwelling species like lake Mysis shrimp. A native of the North Ameri- trout, which as adults eat other fish. The re- can Great Lakes, Mysis introductions were sulting changes to the lake ecosystem were expected to provide a food source for intro- widespread including the disappearance of duced kokanee salmon in Whitefish Lake. kokanee salmon, and the extreme reduction Hundreds of other lakes in the western U.S. in native bull trout and westslope cutthroat were also planted with mysis to boost sport trout. fisheries. Harmful algal blooms Beginning in 1968, fishery managers planted Harmful algal blooms (HABs) are over- Mysis shrimp in Whitefish Lake. Mysis later growths of algae in water. Of particular con- drifted downstream to populate Flathead cern are HABs consisting of blue-green algae Lake. Mysis populations were well estab- (cyanobacteria) that have the potential to lished in Whitefish Lake by 1976. The shrimp create microcystin toxins. Microcystin toxins evolved and adapted a unique survival strat- have been known to kill waterfowl, pets and egy, moving to dark waters on the lake bot- livestock that consume the water and pose WLI Staff and other AIS Response Team Members at Beaver Lake. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute tom to avoid predation during the day and a health risk and irritant to swimmers. The migrating up the water column to feed on toxins produced during blooms are possible Introduced Species zooplankton near the water surface at night. carcinogens to humans and current research There have been numerous non-native spe- These dynamics created two problems: first, is studying the link between certain cyano- cies introductions to Montana waters over the mysis were eating the same zooplankton bacterial toxins and neurological disease. the years. Some of these introductions were that juvenile westslope cutthroat trout and Additionally, cyanotoxins can put drinking done intentionally by resource managers in kokanee relied on as a food source, and sec- water utilities at risk or impart a taste or odor an attempt to boost fisheries, and others were unpleasant to the consumer. done illegally by individuals for a variety of personal reasons. Today, we recognize that HABs also decrease recreational use and introduced species have the potential to dra- aesthetic value of a waterbody from the vast matically and irreversibly alter freshwater mats of algae and the smell associated with ecosystems. They may out-compete native their decomposition. HABs negatively im- species for food and habitat, carry and spread pact the food web by decreasing the amount diseases and parasites to native species, and of nutrients available to the phytoplankton hybridize (interbreed) with native species, all preferred as a food source by zooplankton. actions which can alter or destroy fisheries. As a result, there are decreased food sources for secondary and tertiary consumers. In ad- There are several examples of planned spe- dition, the decomposition of the large algal cies introductions that have disturbed or mats leads to decreased dissolved oxygen lev- altered freshwater ecosystems over the past Mysis Shrimp. Photo Courtesy NOAA Great Lakes Envi- els near the benthos. 100 years, including rainbow trout and brook ronmental Research Lab

Voices of Our Lake 39 Physical of Whitefish residents were instrumental in No one can argue that Whitefish Lake is one Shoreline Development & Recreational Use passing legislation at the state level which of the major draws to our town. To have a The shoreline is where the greatest and most gave local authorities the option of develop- beautiful lake situated near town and with a visible impacts of human development to ing local lakeshore regulations. great City Beach is wonderful. The beach and the lake are apparent. Like wetlands, natural lakeshore are extremely clean compared to shorelines act as buffers between lake water Shoreline development that protects water other similar lakes thanks to the winter run and the land surrounding it. Shoreline veg- quality therefore includes regulations such off that keeps the water cold well into July. etation filters nutrients and pollutants, re- as development setbacks and impervious duces erosion, and provides wildlife habitat. surface limits, as well as thoughtful planning I do not think most visitors or recent trans- Nearshore development can remove much of such as minimal disturbance, the use of na- plants understand that the lake is a source the natural vegetation, reducing the cleans- tive vegetation, and the limited application of of Whitefish’s drinking water supply. Our ing and buffering capacity of the shoreline fertilizers, soil amendments, and pesticides. family, like so many others, enjoys the lake and decreasing habitat. for its beauty, recreation and scenery. It is a great place to cool off and relax in the sum- The clearing of land to develop residences mer months. Our source of enjoyment on and neighborhoods also increases the Whitefish Lake over the years has included amount of impervious surfaces which in canoeing, swimming, and paddle boarding. turn increases surface runoff from precipita- Our children learned to swim in the lake, tion to the lake. Fertilizers used to maintain and we spent many a summer afternoon at non-native vegetation such as lawns and gar- Les Mason Beach cooling off and enjoying dens can also increase the load of nutrients a picnic. I do miss the old Les Mason Beach reaching the lake. Lastly, depending on avail- before it was expanded and became a major able building sites, many new homes around tourist spot. Whitefish Lake do not have access to the City of Whitefish sewer system, triggering Our town would not be what it is today with- the need for new septic system installations. out the draw of Whitefish Lake. It is known primarily for its beauty and recreation op- Shoreline development along Whitefish portunities but not as much for its value as a water source. There are many factors that Lake dates back to the late 1880s with spo- LINDA ENGH-GRADY threaten its quality; from the overabundance radic cabins along the lake. The townsite of 3UHVLGHQW:KLWH¿VK&RPPXQLW\ of gas and oil use by or leaking from boats; Ramsey appeared in the early 1900s near the )RXQGDWLRQ fertilizer and yard chemical run off; leaking Whitefish River outlet. Development around septic tanks; and even dog feces. However, the lake remained restricted until the Civil- Our residence is in Northwoods off of the greatest threat to our lake is the potential ian Conservation Corps (CCC) constructed Reservoir Road. This area is one of a few introduction of invasive species. a road along the east side of the lake and up critical watershed habitats for spring runoff the Swift Creek drainage. Yet, development and city water sources. Our home is located I would like to see the community of White- remained slow until the 1970s and 1980s above the City Water Treatment Plant, and fish make the “prevention of invasive aquatic when shoreline development substantially many seasonal creeks run through several species” a major priority and unite to ensure increased. In the mid-1970s as concerns properties around our land that feed into we stop any possible invasion. There are too over shoreline development grew, a group Haskill Creek drainage.

40 Voices of Our Lake many places where people can access the lake. People who live and recreate on the lake need to make a concerted effort to be educated, aware, and even hypersensitive to what watercraft are going into the lake. Any boat, kayak, paddle board, wake board or related items can carry these invasive species; even our shoes and sandals can be vectors for spreading these insidious creatures! People accessing our surrounding lakes also need to be aware of what aquatic species live in those lakes as well as how easy it is to unknowingly spread species from one lake to another.

The thought of Whitefish Lake being com- Hellroaring Erosion. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Swift Creek Delrey Bridge. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake promised by invasive species it truly sicken- Institute ing and life would not be the same without Sedimentation and Flooding Sediment that reaches the bottom of a wa- our clean and beautiful lake. If every person The impacts of urbanization in the Whitefish terbody can also envelop invertebrate habitat considers how their actions affect the lake, Lake Watershed can be seen in many forms, and food sources, impair reproduction of we could be reasonably assured that our lake including the building and widening of aquatic organisms, and smother eggs and will still be pristine 30 to 40 years from now. roads, shoreline development, increased hu- newly hatched fish. In addition to impacts man access to once wild areas, and the exten- to the ecology of waterbodies, concentrated The urgency to protect our lake is high, and sion of municipal services. A noticeable and sediment can result in increased drinking we must use all available resources to edu- in some areas more measurable result of this water treatment costs, and decreased aesthet- cate people about the danger and address urbanization is the increase in sedimentation ics and recreational opportunities. directly cavalier attitudes that foster a “it to waterbodies. doesn’t apply to me” response. It applies to Natural disturbances such as fires and floods, everyone who uses the lake, otherwise the Weathering and erosion of land and sedi- as well as human activities such as railroad question is not IF but rather WHEN will we ment transportation through waterbodies are building and timber harvesting all have the be invaded by these aquatic species. natural processes. However, excessive erosion potential to contributed sediment to the can cause increased suspended sediment that watershed. Research has shown that natural impacts water quality. Suspended sediment disturbances—if looked at independently of can reduce the amount of light that pen- other factors—appear to have little influence etrates water. This consequentially can reduce on overall sedimentation rates in the lake. By plant and aquatic insect populations which in contrast, correlations between human activi- turn limit food sources for fish and therefore ties and an unnatural amount of sediment to fish populations. the lake are more readily apparent.

Voices of Our Lake 41 :+,7(),6+/$.(6(',0(17$7,21

Year Major Watershed Events 1880- 1885 European Settlement began with a few homesteads built around the lake. 1886-1900 )ORRGRIKLJKHVWPDJQLWXGHÀRRGLQUHFRUGHGKLVWRU\/RJJLQJRIVKRUHOLQHDUHDVEHJDQ'DPFRQVWUXFWHGDWRXWOHWRIODNHE\%RVWRQ 0RQWDQD&RPPHUFLDO&RPSDQ\ (DUO\ &OHDULQJRIUDLOZD\JUDGHRQVRXWKHUQDVSHFWRIODNH 6HYHUDOVDZPLOOVLQWKHDUHDZLWKWLPEHUKDUYHVWIRUUDLOURDGWLHVDQGDJURZLQJ:KLWH¿VKFRPPXQLW\7LPEHUKDUYHVWVWLOOUHPDLQHGFORVHWRWKHODNHEXWVHOHFWWUHHVZHUHVNLGGHGWRWKHODNH %RVWRQ 0RQWDQD&RPPHUFLDO&RPSDQ\'DPEORZQXSE\DJURXSRIFLWL]HQV 6RPHUV/XPEHU&RPSDQ\EXLOWDQHZGDPQHDUWKH&ROXPELD$YHQXH%ULGJH7LPEHUKDUYHVWFRQWLQXHG)LUHRI DFUHV RI:KLWH¿VK/DNHFDWFKPHQWEXUQHG 7LPEHUDURXQGODNHGHSOHWHG/RJJLQJRSHUDWLRQVPRYHGWRRWKHUDUHDVLQYDOOH\)LUHRI DFUHV RI:KLWH¿VK/DNHFDWFKPHQWEXUQHG 0LGODWHV )LUHRI DFUHV RI:KLWH¿VK/DNHFDWFKPHQWEXUQHG (DUO\¶V ([WHQVLYHORJJLQJDFWLYLWLHVLQWKH/D]\&UHHNDQG6ZLIW&UHHNGUDLQDJHV$VVRFLDWHGURDGEXLOGLQJDQGUDLOVSXURQ/D]\&UHHN5DLOVSXUUHPRYHGLQ/RJVZHUHWKHQWUXFNHGRXW 0LGODWH¶V 'HFOLQHLQWLPEHUKDUYHVW(DVW/DNHVKRUH'ULYH6ZLIW&UHHN5RDG&RQVWUXFWHG)LUHRI DFUHV RI:KLWH¿VK/DNHFDWFKPHQWEXUQHG ¶V 'HFOLQHLQWLPEHUKDUYHVWDQGDVVRFLDWHGURDGEXLOGLQJ 1948-1950 +DUYHVWDFWLYLWLHVDQGURDGEXLOGLQJFRPPHQFHGDJDLQLQWKH6ZLIW&UHHNGUDLQDJH5DLOURDGVZLWFKHGIURPFRDOEXUQHUVWRGLHVHOLQ 0LG¶V +DUYHVWDFWLYLW\GHFOLQHG 0LG¶V +DUYHVWDFWLYLW\LQFUHDVHG)ORRGRIVHFRQGODUJHVWLQUHFRUGHGKLVWRU\3DYLQJRI(DVW/DNHVKRUH'ULYHFRPSOHWHG +DUYHVWDFWLYLW\GHFOLQHG )OXFWXDWLQJKDUYHVWDFWLYLW\PDLQO\LQERWWRPODQGV,QLWLDWLRQRI%HVW0DQDJHPHQW3UDFWLFHVE\JRYHUQPHQWDODJHQFLHVDQGSULYDWHWLPEHUFRPSDQLHV)ORRGRIWKLUGODUJHVWLQUHFRUGHG KLVWRU\

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Figure 10. Sediment Chart. Courtesy Spencer, C.N. as adapted by Whitefish Lake Institute

Temperature Change and Lake Ice ture increase is key to creating conditions in Aquatic ecosystems are highly sensitive to which algae thrive, and when coupled with Whitefish Lake Ice Summary climate change. Mean annual air tempera- increased nitrogen and phosphorous loading ture is a variable that can affect a number could create accelerated eutrophication. 1996-2017 of lake and stream dynamics including heat balance, temperature profiles, and vertical Years with more extreme weather condi- Time Range mixing. Warming atmospheric temperatures tions and shorter ice cover duration have 1914-1962 will increase lake surface temperatures and become more common. Lake ice trend data decrease ice-cover, affect nutrient fluxes, al- from around the world is showing later ice 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 ter the productivity and composition of lake on dates and earlier ice off dates. From 1914 Percent of Years Lake did not Completely Freeze plankton, and decrease dissolved oxygen to 1962 Whitefish Lake completely froze in levels for all aquatic life. Also, any tempera- the winter 92% of the time. No data exists Figure 11. Lake Ice. Courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

42 Voices of Our Lake FigureFi 112.2 WhitWhitefish fi hLake L kSedimentation S di t ti 1885-2013. 1885 2013 Courtesy CWhitefish t Whit Lake fi Institute h L k I titt Mike Koopal on Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute Figure 12 represents a brief narrative of his- capacity. Best Management Practices (BMPs) toric land use practices. Prior to European implemented in the 1970s may have con- settlement, the Whitefish Lake Watershed tributed to the reduction in sediment rates was subject only to natural fire and flood through 1990. Unfortunately, sedimentation events. The highest magnitude flood event rates for 1991- 2018 were not available to in- in recorded history for the area occurred in clude in this graphic. 1894, but lake sediment rates increased little from background levels. At that time, the In 2013, 1.12 inches of rain fell in a 24 well vegetated, intact watershed buffered the hour period causing numerous mudslides, effects of the flood. At the turn of the th20 breaching a private pond off Big Mountain Century, railroad grade clearing and timber Road, and sending muddy water across East harvest around the lake caused an increase in Lakeshore Drive toward Les Mason Park sedimentation rates. and Whitefish Lake. The river of water was a few hundred yards wide and carried debris The highest rates were recorded in the early through the Les Mason Park parking area 1930s when the first large-scale timber har- and the surrounding forest. There were nu- vest and road building occurred in the Lazy merous smaller mudslides on East Lakeshore Creek and Swift Creek drainages. In 1964 Drive that day, and a rock retaining wall on and 1974, the third and second highest mag- Rest Haven Drive gave way and hit a nearby nitude flood events were recorded for the carport. The storm also caused some erosion area, but the sedimentation rate was higher along unmaintained trails on the Toni Matt than in 1894. By that time, the watershed and Big Ravine slopes of Big Mountain at Ice break-up on Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy had been disturbed and lost some buffering Whitefish Mountain Resort. gravityshots.com

Voices of Our Lake 43 My ice watching habit started more than 20 Northwest, she found that Whitefish would years ago. From an old crumbling cabin on experience warm winters one-third of the Ramsey Avenue, I liked to observe the daily time by mid-century. By 2100, 93 percent of moods of the lake in all seasons. From that winters would be warm. That’s if humanity spectacular vantage, I weathered the winter continues emitting earth-warming gases at of 1996-97. Today, I’m back on Ramsey, 300 our current trajectory. If we all move quickly yards further down the road, in a slightly to embrace clean energy and stabilize global newer home that also has a good view of the temperatures, nearly half of Whitefish win- lake. The scenery is most dramatic at the ters will still be warm by 2100. onset of ice, typically in early January, and during spring break up. The lessons to me are clear: Get out on that ice today, if you can. And join your many STEVE THOMPSON Unfortunately, the onset of ice has become neighbors in Whitefish who individually and &KDLU&OLPDWH6PDUW*ODFLHU&RXQW\ less reliable. The lake freezes most years, but collectively are doing their part for a safe cli- I’m seeing more years where the ice stalls at mate tomorrow. Many people don’t appreciate a bitter wind City Beach and much of the lake remains blowing across a frozen plain, and most of open. My observation is backed up by a more reliable accounting by the Whitefish them don’t spend February in Whitefish. Few from 1963-1995, but from 1996 to 2016 the Lake Institute, which has two sets of ice of those who do winter here ever venture rate at which Whitefish Lake completely froze records going back to 1914. Until 1962, ice onto the icy wilderness of Whitefish Lake. decreased to 75% of the time. failed to cover the lake only four times, or about 8 percent of the winters. Between But for those few, gliding across a frozen Railway Transportation 1996 and 2017, the lake failed to completely Whitefish Lake is the highlight of our year. The Great Northern Railway was built through freeze nearly 30 percent of the time. We are fishermen and wild ice skaters, ski- Whitefish, then known as Stumptown, in ers and paragliders, dog walkers and the Future prospects for wild ice skaters on 1904. The name Stumptown was a result of occasional mountain biker. Sometimes we Whitefish Lake are not bright. the stumps that were left in town from the spot each other from afar, and sometimes we timber-clearing effort to build the railroad and speak about the ice or weather. Mostly we’re A new study by climate scientist Anne Nolin the town. The railroad has historically been an by ourselves in the wild open of a glaciated at Oregon State University indicates warmer economic blessing to the City of Whitefish, but valley. winters in our future. She shared a prelimi- it has also caused a chronic legacy of pollution. nary analysis with the City of Whitefish in The clearing of the railroad grade along the In February 2018, there was a splendid con- early 2018 that evaluates past and future fre- lake contributed large amounts of fine sedi- vergence. Word has gotten out about ideal quency of warm winter months. She counts ment to Whitefish Lake. Spills, leaks and oily conditions and people gathered in small a winter as warm if a single month between discharge at the 78-acre rail yard facility, which groups at Les Mason State Park. A couple of December and February averages above has been in operation since 1903, have caused groups slapped pucks across long expanses freezing. soil and shallow groundwater contamination of flawless ice. Several ice fishermen drilled from petroleum products (primarily diesel), their holes. Solitary skaters dared themselves Between 1970 and 1999, not one winter met polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), to cross the lake. Dr. Nolin’s definition of warm. Employ- polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) volatile or- ing the best climate model available for the ganic compounds (VOCs), and heavy metals.

44 Voices of Our Lake Burlington Northern (BN) installed a lagoon into the lake. Due to the health risk associ- system to contain and treat oily wastewater ated with the benzyne, toluene, ethylben- in the 1960s, and in 1973 began recovering zene (BTEX) contamination from the spill, free petroleum from shallow groundwater the governor of Montana declared a state through an interception trench just above of emergency and the lake was temporarily the Whitefish River. closed to the public. Clean up efforts at the time included the upland areas and floating In 1994 the facility was designated a Mon- petroleum. Two weeks after the spill, with tana State Superfund site, and in 1998 the much of the surface water contamination railroad company, now Burlington Northern contained or removed, contaminated shore- Santa Fe (BNSF), was notified that it was li- line soils were excavated and land-farmed at able for cleanup at the facility. From 2006 BNSF’s Whitefish yard. Additional clean-up to 2008, BNSF implemented a number of efforts were conducted in 1991 and 1992 at improvements and controls in the rail facil- the appearance of an oily sheen on the lake Whitefish Lake Beaver Creek. Photo courtesy gravityshots.com ity. Since 1991, approximately 15,105 gallons surface. There was no removal of submerged of free product have been recovered from petroleum from the lake sediment at that In May 2012, BNSF and its contractors, un- the interceptor trench and 743 gallons from time. der the direction of the EPA, began a cleanup recover wells. BNSF was also responsible for th effort that included removing approximately cleaning up the Whitefish River along the In 2009—the 20 anniversary of the spill—a 400 cubic yards of contaminated sediment Whitefish West rail yard. From 2009 to 2013, report of residual sheen and petroleum hy- from the bay. A barge-mounted excavator they removed 26,000 cubic yards of contami- drocarbons was made by a Whitefish citizen moved sediments from the lake to rail car nated sediment and backfilled it with river to WLI. WLI conducted an investigation and bins which were ferried to the Whitefish rock. confirmed the existence of the contamina- City Beach boat ramp, from which they were tion, then engaged the EPA, DEQ, the City trucked to the BNSF Whitefish facility and Mackinaw Bay 1989 Train Derailment of Whitefish, and BNSF to further study then transported to a licensed waste facility On July 31, 1989, a and arrange for ad- in North Dakota. The effort, which removed BNSF freight train ditional cleanup. approximately 97% of the contamination was derailed and four Testing by WLI completed on June 25, 2012. diesel-filled tank confirmed that ex- cars slid down the tractable petroleum Although Amtrak and BNSF continue to slope below the hydrocarbon (EPH) work hard to maintain their safety records, track on the west contaminant levels there remain concerns related to railway shore of Whitefish in the lake were 16.8 transportation, mainly related to oil and coal Lake at Mackinaw times higher than and other hazardous materials, and the ef- Bay. Three of the the federal maxi- fects of vibration on infrastructure. Today, four cars leaked mum contaminate the town of Whitefish is considered one between 20,000 level for drinking of Amtrak’s top ten spots with service by and 25,000 gal- water standards and two daily passenger trains, and is a stop on lons of diesel onto 8.65 times higher Amtrak’s Empire Builder. Built in 1928, the the shoreline and in the surrounding depot was rehabilitated in the 1990s by the Train derailment. Photo courtesy Charlie Abell soils.

Voices of Our Lake 45 Stumptown Historical Society which owns nitrates tend to come from improperly man- Mercury the building and parking lot, and runs a his- aged agricultural, domestic, and industrial Mercury is a naturally occurring element torical museum next to the ticket office and run-off, and aging and failing septic and in the earth’s crust that is present in our air, waiting area. sewer systems. Because some phosphates soil, and water. Human sources include fu- adhere to soil, they are transported down- els, raw materials, and waste from industrial Chemical stream to water bodies through erosion, and processes. Because mercury is re-emitted Nutrient Loading released slowly into the water. Atmospheric into the environment from land and water, Nutrient loading describes the widely ac- deposition of nutrients and pollutants to some of the mercury circulating throughout cepted concept that the quantity and type waterbodies can also travel from great dis- the environment today was released years of nutrients (such as nitrogen and phos- tances. ago. Exposure to mercury can harm human phorus) entering a lake directly affects its organs and affect the nervous system. health. These nutrients occur naturally in the Excess nutrients are a major threat to lake environment, but their concentrations can water quality. Nutrients in the water feed mi- Coal-burning power plants account for 50 increase beyond natural levels due to human croscopic plant-like organisms called algae, percent of all human sources of mercury activity such as decreasing or eradicating which can quickly overload lakes and nega- emissions to the air in the United States. natural lakeside and streamside vegetation, tively impact their aquatic life. Healthy lakes Airborne mercury eventually settles directly over-fertilizing agricultural lands and lawns, need algae since they are important primary into waterways or on the land where it can and raising livestock too close to lakes and producers for the lake and are the bottom of be washed into water. Once it enters a water- streams. Additional sources of nutrient pol- the lake’s food chain. However, excessive nu- body, microorganisms change it into highly lution include septic leachate, stormwater, trients accelerate algal growth, which reduc- toxic methyl mercury, which then bioaccu- and dog waste. Hard surfaces near waterbod- es water clarity and can lead to unpleasant mulates in fish and shellfish that eat the mi- ies, such as sidewalks, driveways, and roof- odors. As algae die, they fall to the bottom croorganisms and remains toxic to humans tops, also increase nutrient loads by prevent- of the lake and are decomposed by bacteria. and wildlife that eat the polluted fish. ing run-off from soaking into the ground As the bacteria consume the dead algae they naturally. deplete the oxygen levels in the surrounding There is a fish consumption advisory warn- water. Decreased oxygen levels make it dif- ing for Whitefish Lake. Montana Fish, Wild- The two main categories of pollution are ficult for fish and other aquatic animals to life & Parks publishes the Montana Sport point source, such as municipal and industri- survive. Fish Consumption Guidelines. The Guide- al waste that comes from a pipe, and diffuse lines describes the benefits and dangers of non-point source such as agricultural, domes- Knowledge and understanding of lake water consumption of fish from Montana waters tic, and industrial run-off, stormwater, and quality and the pollutants affecting it helps and identifies how safe particular fish are to septic system leaching. The origination of to preserve our lake systems. Ongoing efforts include in human diets. While fish consump- point source nutrients can generally be easily to quantify and understand nutrient loading tion may contribute good proteins low in identified and monitored while non-point continue today. Important factors in reduc- saturated fats our diets, it can also expose us source pollutants tend to be spread broadly ing or buffering nutrient loading include to more methyl mercury (causes damage to and difficult if impossible to pin-point or laws to regulate the quantity of pollutants the nervous system), PCBs (developmental monitor. Since the 1970s phasing out of being added to the environment, increased and immune system damage), and other pol- phosphate-containing detergents in Flathead implementation of sustainable practices, and lutants than the human body can tolerate. County, the main sources of phosphates and maintenance and restoration of water cleansing buffer and wetlands.

46 Voices of Our Lake Benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene and xylene BTEX Benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene and xylene (BTEX) are volatile organic compounds (VOCs) known for their potential to cause numerous human and ecosystem health prob- 0 0HQ :RPHQ QRWFKLOG EHDULQJDJH lems. While short-term exposure can cause :& :RPHQ FKLOGEHDULQJDJH central nervous system issues such as dizzi- FKLOGUHQ ness, exhaustion, and loss of coordination, as )LVKDUHVDIHWRHDW well as respiratory issues, long-term exposure RIVDIHPHDOVSHUPRQWK can affect the kidneys, liver, and blood systems and lead to leukemia and various can- Figure 13. Fish Consumption Cart. Courtesy Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks as adapted by Whitefish Lake Institute cers.

Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products PPCPs have and continue to be detected Benzene is found in petroleum products such (PPCPs) in groundwater, streams, rivers, lakes and as gasoline, as well as many common house- Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products reservoirs. The compounds can have human hold products such as paints, dyes, resins, (PPCPs) is a category of naturally occurring health impacts, as well as impacts on aquatic furniture polish, detergents, insecticides, and and synthetic compounds found in prescrip- ecosystems with such results as adverse ef- cosmetics. Toluene is found in petroleum tion and over-the-counter drugs for humans fects on invertebrates; and changes in fish sex products, paint solvents, gums, oils, and and domesticated animals, nutritional ratios, changes in fish nesting behavior, and resins. Ethylbenzene is mostly used as an ad- supplements, medical diagnostic agents, the development of female characteristics in ditive to gasoline and aviation fuel, but may cosmetics, fragrances, sunscreen, and insect male fish. The full scope of the presence of be present in some paints, inks, and pesti- repellent, and other products. PPCPs enter PPCPs and the toxicological significance to cides. Xylene is found in gasoline and is used terrestrial and aquatic environments through humans or terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems as a solvent in the printing industry. BTEX a number of direct and indirect means is far from understood, however, certain exposure can occur by ingestion (drinking including natural human processes. On a compounds are gaining attention. Today, contaminated water), inhalation (breathing larger scale, they travel through industrial conventional drinking water and wastewa- contaminated air), or absorption of polluted effluent, animal feedlots, wastewater effluent, ter treatment processes may reduce some air or water through the skin. septic leachate, landfill leachate, and sewer PPCPs, but they do not remove them from overflows. Other methods of introduction water. In 2005, WLI analyzed the levels of BTEX include improper disposal of PPCPs, such as at City Beach. WLI concluded that the main flushing expired or unused pharmaceuticals Locally, the Whitefish Police Department, mechanism for the high levels of benzene was down the toilet or pouring them down a sink in partnership with the Northwest Drug from boat owners pulling their transom plugs drain, and through the improper discharge Task Force and Citizens for a Better Flathead on the boat ramp allowing petroleum effluent of commercial wastes. developed the Waste Not program through to enter the lake adjacent to the swimming which pharmaceutical products can be dis- area. WLI recommended the installation of a posed of safely at the Whitefish Police De- catchment system to collect the effluent. The partment. Whitefish City Council approved financing for the project which was completed in 2013.

Voices of Our Lake 47 to 1,000 times from pre-fireworks measure- ments and can take months to dissipate.

The good news is that there are safer alternatives to perchlorate for fireworks. Research- ers have developed replacements for perchlorate in fireworks and other pyrotechnics. The fireworks burn cleaner and produce less smoke. Alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts found in these materials have been found to be environmentally friendly. These materials also reduce amounts of heavy metals, lowering their toxic effects. These safer fireworks are—at face value—often more expensive, however, pollution cleanup and ef- MATTHEW PESCHEL Interceptor Trench. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute fects on human health dramatically increase the cost of standard fireworks, making the 7KLUGJHQHUDWLRQ:KLWH¿VKUHVLGHQW alternatives far more appealing. 6HYHQWKJUDGHUDW:KLWH¿VK0LGGOH Perchlorates 6FKRRO One of Whitefish’s popular events is Independence Day—Fourth of Whitefish Lake is important to my family July Fireworks on Whitefish Lake. because we have family and friends that live Unfortunately, along with the on the lake. In the morning when they grab celebration of our independence, their coffees and sit on their decks, they standard fireworks often bring car- want to see this beautiful lake. Lots of times cinogens and hormone-disrupting our family goes to my grandparents’ house substances to our waterways. One on the lake, and we go on their boat and go of the greatest concerns related to swimming. It’s a great way to cool off and water quality is the use in fireworks spend our summer having fun! The lake also of perchlorates, a highly water has a peaceful aspect to it. You can sit on a soluble propellant that can affect calm boat alone and chill, then you can read the functioning of the metabolism- a book, go fishing, and much more! regulating thyroid gland. The Cen- ter for Disease Control warns that Whitefish Lake is important to our com- perchlorate exposure can result in munity because this wonderful lake pro- thyroid damage and hinder brain vides many resources for people in town, development in infants. Studies like fishing, water to maintain our luscious have shown that perchlorates are gardens, and most importantly, fresh clean found in waterbodies and water water to drink! At first thought, you might supply wells near fireworks displays think the water is dirty, but the City filters and that perchlorate levels rise up Fireworks at Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis the water before we drink it. This lake also

48 Voices of Our Lake provides some fun like diving under the water and finding cool rocks or simply ex- A Lasting Tribute ploring. Whitefish Lake Golf Course pumps From 2010 to 2015, WLI hosted the Whitefish Wine Auction fund- water from the lake to water the wonderful raiser to support management of its Averill’s Viking Creek Wetland golf course greens and fairways to keep it a Preserve and for internal WLI programming. In support of the fun- great attraction. When tourists come to see draiser, Chris Ruffatto’s high school industrial arts class volunteered Whitefish they will most likely want to see to make auction paddles for the event. They cut “whitefish” out of the awesome lake. This might increase their metal using their new plasma cutter, and painted each fish white. The interest in coming back to Whitefish again paddles were then individually numbered. The unique whitefish pad- or potentially buy a place here. These tour- dles jumped from the attendees hands during lively bidding of auc- ists will spend money in Whitefish, which is tion items and added a nice flair to the event. With the retiring of the good for the community. There is also a nice Whitefish Wine Auction, WLI donated the whitefish paddles back to beach called ‘City Beach’ where people can the school district for a 2nd grade pond unit art project. The intent is sit and enjoy the lake. Whitefish community to have each second grader decorate the iconic fish species of White- members gain a lot from Whitefish Lake. fish with their own artistic touch, and for them to be displayed in celebration of the new Center for Sustainability and Entrepreneurship. There are many threats to Whitefish Lake. Below is a prototype by 2nd grader Case Koopal. When people want to put any kind of boat in the lake, they have to go to a special place where they get their boat checked for invasive species, which I think are a big threat to the lake. There also some fish that people bring from other lakes to put into our lake. I also think it would be bad if there is an oil spill from the railroad.

Whitefish Lake should be protected in order to keep a clean lake for people to enjoy. We can do it by not littering, and we also need to protect it from development. We need to keep the houses away from the water because it could pollute the water by having a whole house and humans right next to it.

Whitefish Wine Auction. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

Voices of Our Lake 49 WHITEFISH LAKE INSTITUTE STAFF Lori is the author of the Flathead Watershed Sourcebook: A Guide to an Extraordinary Place, a book and companion website that il- lustrates the natural and cultural histories of the Flathead Water- Mike Koopal shed, details its biodiversity, water quality, land management, ag- Mike is the founder and executive director of WLI. With a biol- ricultural production, and economics. She was a co-coordinator ogy degree from Luther College, Mike’s professional career began of the third edition of the Montana Lake Book. Lori co-authored in the fisheries division of the Montana Department of Fish, the Whitefish Water Resources Report: A Status of the Whitefish Wildlife and Parks working in the Clark Fork and Blackfoot River Lake Watershed (2015) and was lead author on the Investigation of drainages. Septic Leachate to the Shoreline Area of Whitefish Lake (2012).

Mike studied Lahontan Cutthroat trout for the Summit Lake Lori serves as the Chair of the Upper Columbia Conservation Paiute Tribe in Nevada, and worked with sockeye salmon for Commission (UC3), on which she represents the Conserva- the Prince William Sound Aquaculture Corporation in Alaska. tion Districts of Montana. She also serves as a Supervisor on the He was a partner at Watershed Consulting for eight years where Flathead Conservation District Board, and is a Master’s Adjunct he specialized in fisheries related issues in Montana, Idaho and Instructor and Thesis Advisor for Green Mountain College. Lori Nevada. Mike is the Chair of the AIS Early Detection & Monitor- is a Level II trained Invasive Species Inspector/Decontaminator. ing Committee on the Upper Columbia Conservation Commis- She is a past recipient of the Outstanding Writer Award from the sion (UC3), serves on the Flathead Basin Commission Executive Montana Chapter of the American Fisheries Society and the Part- Committee, the Whitefish Climate Action Plan Committee, and ner of the Year award from the Northwest Regional RC&D. provided technical assistance to the Bigfork Stormwater Advisory Committee. Cynthia Ingelfinger Cynthia is the Science & Education Coordinator for the White- He was a co-coordinator of the second and third editions of the fish Lake Institute, where she coordinates the Northwest Montana Montana Lake Book. He co-authored the Whitefish Water Re- Lakes Volunteer Monitoring Network—the long-standing citizen sources Report: A Status of the Whitefish Lake Watershed (2015) science program managed by WLI and funded by Montana Fish, and is an author of the Investigation of Septic Leachate to the Wildlife & Parks. She also conducts educational programs and Shoreline Area of Whitefish Lake (2012). Mike is also a Level II baseline field work for WLI. trained Aquatic Invasive Species Inspector/Decontaminator. Mike is a past recipient of the Individual Achievement Award by Cynthia joined WLI from the Flathead Conservation District the Montana Chapter of the American Fisheries Society for his where she was the Assistant Conservationist. She earned a Bach- outstanding contribution to the protection and enhancement of elor of Arts degree in Environmental Studies from Brown Uni- fisheries resources in Montana. versity, a Master of Science in the Field Naturalist Program from the University of Vermont, and completed a one year Professional Lori Curtis Residency in Environmental Education at the Teton Science As Science and Education Director, Lori ensures that Whitefish School. Prior to her work at the Conservation District, Cynthia Lake Institute’s science and educational programs perform to was an Outreach Coordinator for the Ipswich River Watershed their potential. She has a Master of Science in Environmental Association and prior to that, a Research Associate for the Wil- Studies from Green Mountain College and has contributed to derness Society—both in Massachusetts. Cynthia is knowledge- research in aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems in California, Colo- able about scientific research processes and has experience inte- rado, and Montana. Her career includes diverse management grating science, fieldwork, critical thinking and public outreach. roles across a variety of disciplines.

50 Voices of Our Lake Shawn Devlin Shawn Devlin is a part-time Aquatic Ecologist for WLI and an Assistant Research Professor for Aquatic Ecology at the Univer- ABOUT WLI sity of Montana Flathead Lake Biological Station (FLBS). Founded in 2005, WLI is a science, education, and community Shawn is helping WLI to expand its scientific research capac- stewardship based nonprofit committed to protecting and imity and the collaborative partnership between WLI and FLBS. proving Whitefish Lake and Whitefish area water resources today, Devlin’s efforts at the FLBS encompass work with a sophisticated while providing a collective vision for tomorrow. Through our computer model and the extensive dataset collected on Flathead Scientific Research program, we collect trend data over time and Lake by FLBS researchers over the past 35 years. The model helps assess lake health. Over the years, we have provided our scientific frame the questions of how climate change or introduced species findings to community leaders and management agencies, result- like zebra mussels may affect the lake’s biogeochemistry and ther- ing in numerous projects that have benefited water quality and mal dynamics, and how increased nutrient loading and changes provided the community and resource managers information to in land use may affect primary production and water clarity. make informed decisions. Through our Education and Outreach program, we connect students of all ages—from kindergarten Shawn earned his Ph.D. from Wright State University in Dayton, through College, and the senior community—to the outdoors. Ohio and a B.Sc. in Environmental Biology from Unity Col- Our Community Stewardship program engages citizens to enjoy lege in Unity Maine. He conducted postdoctoral research at the and protect the lake through activities and citizen science pur- University of Jyväskylä, Finland prior to coming to work at the suits. WLI also partners with other organizations to creatively FLBS. Shawn received the 2017 Raymond B. Lindeman Award fund research and develop programs that benefit Whitefish Lake from the Association for the Sciences of Limnology and Ocean- and other local water resources. ography (ASLO), one of the world’s largest and most prestigious international societies for water scientists. The Lindeman Award recognizes his paper “Top Consumer Abundance Influences Lake Methane Efflux” published in the journal Nature Commu- nications, which showed that methane released from a lake was greatly influenced by the presence or absence of fish. WLI Board of Directors Devlin was also the lead author on “Spatial and Temporal Dy- Andy Feury, President namics of Invasive Freshwater Shrimp (Mysis Diluviana): Long- Hank Ricklefs, Vice President Term Effects on Ecosystem Properties in a Large Oligotrophic John Collins, Secretary/Treasurer Lake” published in the journal Ecosystems.” Carol Atkinson Sue Fletcher Greg Gunderson Ed Lieser Sharon Morrison John Muhlfeld Mike Shaw Jordan White

Big Mountain in December. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis

Voices of Our Lake 51 linked. My hope is that by helping people notice where their daily paths cross with the lake and our water resources, the more they will care about what might be affecting our waters and be willing to take actions to improve the health of the lake. Lori Curtis teaching field journaling I am especially grateful to everyone who contributed to this publication and lent their voice to the protection of this vital resource. Ultimately, it is through efforts of individuals joined in a common cause that change hap- pens. Senior program on the lake

&<17+,$,1*(/),1*(5 Science and Education Coordinator, WLI PROGRAMS :KLWH¿VK/DNH,QVWLWXWH Scientific Research Whitefish Lake is the centerpiece of our WLI’s Scientific Research program is de- community. Whether from the chairlift signed to provide a comprehensive under- FREEFLOW GIS students at Big Mountain, nordic trails at the golf standing of the Whitefish Lake Watershed course, bike path near City Beach, or the Whitefish Trails, whenever Whitefish Lake Education & Outreach comes into view, I immediately feel a sense The staff of WLI believes it is important to of place and a connection to our community. reach citizens of all ages in Whitefish and its Whitefish Lake is as much a part of our qual- surrounding communities about water ecol- ity of life as it is the landscape. The lake pro- ogy. Education programs include classroom FREEFLOW student at Viking Creek vides a meeting place for my family to swim, visits and outdoor education programs at our play, or paddle with friends, and one glimpse living Wetlands Interpretive Nature Trail, Institute Lake Whitefish courtesy Photos Work. WLI at of its blue waters can put my stress at ease. high school job shadowing opportunities, More than a beautiful backdrop, the lake is college internships, graduate thesis support, a source of clean drinking water and an eco- educator in-service training, and presenta- nomic driver of the community. tions to civic groups. We have published educational materials for use at the Nature Interns monitoring Whitefish Lake I am grateful for the opportunity to work Trail such as a Trail Guide, Bird Guide, Dis- towards protecting this vital community covery Guide for middle school student, and resource every day. The health of Whitefish workbooks for kindergartners and second Lake and our community are inextricably graders.

Intern monitoring Whitefish Lake

52 Voices of Our Lake Community Stewardship WLI is most proud of its Living Wetlands In- WLI engages a Citizens Advisory Commit- terpretive Nature Trail, a community amenity tee (CAC) which enables diverse community born of an unusual partnership. As part of involvement and participation in support the Viking Creek Development proposal, the of its science and education goals. The CAC Dan Averill family in 2009 gifted a 28.83 land provides a forum for the exchange of infor- parcel to WLI. The Averill’s Viking Creek mation between citizens and WLI, conducts Wetland Preserve—owned and managed by community outreach, and provides opportu- WLI—is now home to the Living Wetlands nities for learning about—and engaging in— Interpretive Nature Trail where community Whitefish Lake Watershed issues. members and visitors share the history, sci- Committee members also come ence, and beauty of together each year to make recom- the wetland, and are mendations for the annual Stew- provided a glimpse ardship Award(s) and the Chris CASE KOOPAL into the lives of the Ruffatto Excellence in Education 6HFRQGJUDGHU0XOGRZQ(OHPHQWDU\ wildlife with which Award. Each year, the Steward- we share this habitat. ship Award recognizes individuals My dad Mike Koopal is a great guy. He or groups that take extraordinary The trail offers the helps keep lakes clean. He is the leader of measures to protect water qual- closest outdoor natu- the Whitefish Lake Institute. My dad does ity in the Whitefish area, and ral experience for research on the lake, he has to go to a lot of the Chris Ruffatto Excellence in Whitefish citizens meetings and rides in lots of boats. I hope Education Award recognizes and and visitors, extends one day he is able to get everything good so I honors educators (traditional and natural resource edu- get to go swimming and tubing on Whitefish non-traditional) who dedicate cation offerings, and Lake. Chris Ruffatto receiving award. Photo courtesy their lives to engaging the next Whitefish Lake Institute enables connectivity generation of environmental stew- to the City of White- Whitefish Lake ards. fish bike and pedestrian path, Crestwood High Waters Park, The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, and the In the Mountains WLI staff participates in numerous commit- Viking Creek subdivision. Terrific tees including; Flathead Basin Commission, Elegant Flathead Conservation District, Flathead Fabulous Community of Resource Educators (CORE), I Love It Flathead Roundtable, Haskill Basin Water- Swimming shed Group, Upper Columbia Conservation Help... Commission, and the Whitefish Climate Ac- tion Plan Commission. WLI is a member of Land Around the Lake the American Fisheries Society, the Ameri- Awesome can Water Resources Association, the North Kickstart Your Motor American Lake Management Society, and the Everyone’s Lake Whitefish Chamber of Commerce. Second graders at Wetland. Photo courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

Voices of Our Lake 53 Mike Koopal with students at interpretive station

&+5,658))$772 Fawn resting in Wetlands Retired educator; :KLWH¿VK/DNH,QVWLWXWH9ROXQWHHU My experience with Whitefish Lake began on June 7, 1985. Upon finishing my inter- view for a job teaching Earth Science at Whitefish High School, andaccepting the position, I returned to my vehicle to wait for my heart rate to settle. It was a clear and very warm day so I decided to drive by White- fish Lake to check things out. It wasn’t long before I jumped in to cool off for the drive FREEFLOW students on Viking Creek home. One dip told me that this lake was a beautiful and high quality resource that we would be so lucky to enjoy as members of the Whitefish community. It was easy to see that Whitefish Lake was a summer mecca with all kinds of recreational opportunities in a very clean and healthful environment. What an idyllic setting. And then, one day, in the summer of 1989 there was a wake-up call. A derailment on the west Black bear visiting in Wetlands Mountain lion stalking in Wetlands side of the lake had discharged thousands

Wetlands. Photos courtesy Whitefish Lake Institute

54 Voices of Our Lake of gallons of diesel into the lake prompting was usually the answer when it came to the ate them and avoid future consequences a quarantine on swimming and boating for appreciation and protection of natural re- can gain public support. Without scientific two weeks. What happened to my precious sources. knowledge, citizens cannot know what to resource? What else could affect the quality protect. And fixing aquatic degradation is of this lake? I feel it is important that our community always far more time consuming and expen- place a value on Whitefish Lake. Not neces- sive once the damage is done. Ask lakeshore Within five years we had built a home (unbe- sarily a monetary value but an emotional val- property owners from New York to Wash- lievably with lake access!) and despite the oil ue. For example, I would often take students, ington state where there is a long history of spill, I became even more enamored with the teachers, and community members (on the “fixing” public health threats in lakes - to the clear cool waters of Whitefish Lake. I could Whitefish Lake Institute research vessel) tune of millions of dollars per community. go on for hours about special days we had to a pipeline that extends hundreds of feet on the lake but suffice to say...my kids had a out into Monks Bay. The passengers would Everyone loves the lake for its relatively very memorable childhood swimming, fish- wonder... “What is this pipeline for?” After “natural” condition. If we plan to enjoy this ing, diving, catching crawdads and surfing some discussion they would eventually an- condition in the future, we must be vigilant. behind boats with outdated gear. We didn’t swer their own question... “Is this where the Understanding and enhancing the processes have much, just starting out on a teacher’s other part of our public water supply comes that allowed the lake to take care of itself for salary, but we really had fun. Things weren’t from?!” The quality and value of Whitefish the past 8,000-10,000 years is a good place to nearly as expensive as they are today - as the Lake suddenly became far more tangible as start. This requires data collection and scien- lot for our house cost only $9,500! we recognized we all had a little of Whitefish tific analysis followed up with professional Lake in us at that moment. Good thing it’s assessment. At that point, best management Over the years my Earth Science program at clean! The stage was set for what I refer to as practices can be implemented but only if we Whitefish High School matured and I offered emotional value. It’s difficult to put a price have the knowledge and scientific compe- an extracurricular science activity to my stu- on but immensely important...enough to be tency to “buy in.” dents. The program focused on water quality willing to defend it. in Haskill Creek (half of our public water Obviously the most cost effective best man- supply). It was called FREEFLOW (Flathead The value of Whitefish Lakeis hard to mea- agement practices are those that are preven- River Educational Effort for Focused Learn- sure. The economic, environmental, recre- tative in nature. In other words, why create a ing in Our Watershed) and was founded by ational and aesthetic qualities of the lake are problem if you can avoid it? We just need to Don Slaybaugh, Tom Berquist and me. It difficult (if not impossible) to quantify. I sup- know what to avoid...Zebra mussels anyone? became very successful, and over time we pose this is when the term “priceless” is used developed working relationships with Mon- to describe something that is precious and One hundred years from today I hope that tana Fish Wildlife & Parks and a new organi- irreplaceable. As is the case with all resources this “priceless” resource is in as good or zation, the Whitefish Lake Institute. that experience the pressures of population, better condition than we enjoy today. The Whitefish Lake is vulnerable. chemical, physical, and biological quality While working with the Whitefish Lake In- of the lake depends on our knowledge and stitute, I was able to expand the FREEFLOW Scientific research over the past 40 years emotional value system to protect it. program to include lake ecology. What an shows that the lake has experienced measur- opportunity to teach both students and able impacts compared to its pristine condi- Really...what is Whitefish Lake worth? teachers about the chemical, physical, and tion roughly 150 years ago. It is imperative biological status of Whitefish Lake! Prior that we as citizens have some concept of experience had shown me that education these impacts so that efforts to remedi-

Voices of Our Lake 55 Sunti’s kinship with the tranquil waters of Yet apart from revitalizing his artistic mind, Whitefish Lake are reflective of his Thera- Sunti imparts that the highlight of his sum- vada Buddhist culture, where water is sym- mers is wrapped around the Lake, where he bolic of clarity, purity, and stillness. Buddhist and his family enjoy swimming, canoeing, legends make frequent analogies of awaken- sunset picnics, and Fourth of July fireworks. ing and introspection through the reflection Indeed, the Pichetchaiyakul family escapes of water, and depict tales of ascetics acquir- from it all by cycling just a few miles to the ing wisdom by listening to a river. In fact, Lake. Buddhist temples are often surrounded by lakes or ponds and garnished with lotus “It is imperative that this precious, pictur- flowers to bring peace to its residents and esque jewel be treasured and preserved so visitors. that it may continue to instill inner peace ERICA PICHETCHAIYAKUI and inspiration in our children for many &R2ZQHU6XQWL¶V:RUOG$UW*DOOHU\ As an art student in Thailand, where Sunti generations to come.” was trained in meditation, the development It’s no wonder that the aesthetic charm of of patience, concentration, and inner calm- Whitefish Lake is an artist’s muse. Its fresh, ness is still embraced among visual artists. pristine waters surrounded by vast, authori- Sunti learned that mindfulness is the portal tative mountains conjure an emotional and to creativity as well as the method for refin- mesmerizing affinity with nature, and sum- ing one’s awareness and attention to detail. mon a humbling reminder of our higher It is this training that, for Sunti, is enhanced power. Indeed, Whitefish Lake is the subject before a placid body of water. of many beautiful photographs and paint- ings, and a destination where sculptors can “Whitefish Lake is an artist’s sanctuary,” draw equal inspiration from the Lake’s sheer Sunti explains. “It is rejuvenating and serene. beauty and magnificence. It allows me to experience presence, where I can take a step back and put life back in per- It is this creative stimulation that attracts spective.” Thai sculptor, Sunti Pichetchaiyakul, to Whitefish Lake, where the mindfulness he Sunti articulates that his ability to create is experiences prepares him for his sculpting contingent upon a blissful state of mind. sessions at his studio in downtown White- Over the last five years, Sunti schedule has fish. become a densely-packed balancing act between Asia and North America, and he turns “It’s an earthly paradise…. our favorite way to Whitefish Lake to fuel his artistic energies. to wind down and appreciate life. Every visit The sculptor admits that being mindful amid is a spiritual journey for me; a step closer to international travel and bustling cities is a self-discovery.” never-ending challenge. Naturally, Sunti is always relieved to return to Whitefish, where he is proud to call home, and restore his inner peace at beautiful Whitefish Lake. Whitefish Lake. Photo courtesy Lori Curtis

56 Voices of Our Lake COOL STUFF WLI has several items available that are fun to own and that make great gifts. We welcome visitors to our office to purchase items or pick up free material and avoid shipping costs. Please remember to call first as we are often in the field conducting research and running educational programs. You may also order all of these items on our website www.whitefishlake.org – just click on Cool Stuff.

Whitefish Lake Institute License Plate Your purchase of a Whitefish Lake Institute plate will provide you with a beautiful license plate and will support the only organization that’s sole purpose is protecting Whitefish Lake. This specialty plate may be used on any registered vehicle with the exception of trailers, motorcycles and ATVs. Available only at Flathead County vehicle registration for $25 plus a one-time $10 fee to cover administration costs.

Bathymetric Map of Whitefish Lake This map is the submerged equivalent of a terrestrial topographic Whitefish Lake Map map. It presents an The Whitefish Lake map was produced in cooperation between accurate, measurable WLI and the Flathead Lake Biological Station. This beautifully de- description as well as a tailed and richly colorful 18”x24” map is based on satellite imagery. visual presentation of the It communicates many natural features such as nearby lakes, the submerged terrain. Whitefish River outlet, and Whitefish Lake’s six tributaries; as well $15 plus $3 shipping as Whitefish Mountain Resort, boat launches on the lake, and the City of Whitefish. All proceeds from map sales go toward WLI’s ongoing research, education, and community stewardship programs. $25 plus $3 shipping

Voices of Our Lake 57 MORE COOL STUFF!!

Montana Lake Book This beautiful, full-color book is a great resource about how lakes function, what threatens their health, and how they can be protected. The publication was funded by partners including the Flathead Basin Commission, Flathead Conservation District, Flathead Lake Biological Station, Flathead Lakers, Flathead National Forest, Mon- tana Department of Environmental Quality, Montana Fish, Wildlife Flathead Watershed Sourcebook & Parks, and the Whitefish Lake Institute. A 248 page book filled with photos and details of the geography, Free plus $3 shipping cultures, natural history and economics of the Flathead Watershed. Over 50 contributors provided personal content for this interesting place-based publication. Free plus $7.00 shipping

Flathead Watershed Sourcebook CD CD of the 248 page book filled with photos and details of the geography, cultures, natural history and economics of the Flathead Watershed. Over 50 contributors provided personal content for this interesting place-based publication. Protect Whitefish Lake Bumper Stickers Free plus $2.50 shipping The attractive stickers read“Protect Whitefish Lake: You Drink it” and include the WLI logo and web address. Free plus $.50 shipping

58 Voices of Our Lake Voices of Our Lake 59