Hiking in the Grand Canyon, May/June 2010
Our hike in the Grand Canyon in 2010 began during our visit to the North Rim in May 2009. Phil and I were captivated by the majestic beauty of the views from the North Rim, enjoyed our hikes on the Widforss and Uncle Jim Trails and were intrigued by our short hike on the North Kaibab Trail that goes to the Colorado River. Phil was smitten and determined to get to the river and back – perhaps because the Colorado River is a territory that Scott knows by heart and loves deeply.
Anyway, from May 2009 to February 2010, the North Kaibab Trail was in Phil’s mind. But to do this hike was not straightforward. One needs hiking poles – so Phil found the best. One needs a permit from the Nation Park Service, one needs campsites on the right days, one needs motel rooms at the top. Not easy to juggle. But eventually all was set in motion, dates were confirmed so we were locked into the plan!!
Then months of preparation for the hike: backpacks, food, flashlights, stove, clothes, tent, etc. Not to forget physical preparation and being “fit”. The boyscout in Phil certainly reigned triumphant!! Well, until he was struck by sciatica – but not to be deterred -- the plan went forward. Phil’s plan because Jo was still writing grants!! Even Jo’s vibrating watch was set for 4AM!! And Phil designed and made (stitch by stich) a soft chamois camera case for his camera!!
May 30tht: So finally on May 30th we left 1026 Glourie Circle in a taxi with 2 duffle bags filled with backpacks, hiking poles and “stuff”, two suitcases for real life and 2 small backpacks for the plane. Continental from Houston to Las Vegas, then a car from Las Vegas to the Kaibab Lodge with stops at Walmarts for supplies, peanuts, raisins, M&Ms, Gatorade, etc. Thank goodness for the iPhone that guided us easily and reduced much anxiety and saved time!!
We reach the Kaibab Lodge about 4:30PM – exhausted – unpack the car, the duffle bags etc. Tomorrow will be the “test run” to see if Phil can hike with his sciatica in control (lots of Ibuprophen!!). Eat at the Lodge – cheese ravioli (rich) and a salad and some wine.
May 31st: The test run hike on the Widforss Trail was good. Mount Humphrey in the distance was snow-capped and spectacular!! Hiking poles are great, we are euphoric that all will be well for tomorrow. We checked at the Back Country Ranger Station and then headed for the Kaibab Lodge for a rest, then into the Park again to see Imperial Point. Ok, now its time to pack the car, check the packs, have dinner (grilled chicken salad, bread and wine) and go to bed!!
June 1: Up at 4:00AM with Jo’s watch, 32F!! crisp!! We were at the North Kaibab Trailhead by 5:30, still 32F. Began the steep descent – we were off!! Each with a pack weighing 25lb (me) and 35lb (Phil) and looking good with our hiking poles. Down, down and by 10-11 we were eager for lunch at Roaring Springs trailhead. Phil is beginning to hurt and feel the strain of going down. Eager to get to Cottonwood Campground – but alas that was another couple of miles!! Past the Pump House Residence where we took a long break and then to Cottonwood. Temperatures were increasing!! By 1:30 we arrived in mostly bad shape for Phil. I was OK but worried. We were both worried that Phil would have to go out by helicopter!!
But we found a campsite, walked to the Ranger Station lodge for some shade and visited with a family hiking in the reverse direction. They reassured us that the hike from Cotton wood to Phantom Ranch was relatively “easy” – and since they were our age, we regained hope!! Set up tent (a lot of hassle), had beef stroganoff mush for dinner and then died at sundown.
June 2: Up at 4:30, a slow-go for Phil. Pack up everything and finally leave by 6:30AM. Phil was walking OK but slow – lots of Ibuprophen!! – and then Phil’s pace picks up. The muscles were loosening – what a relief!! We pass Ribbon Falls (to far out of the way) and keep a steady pace south and toward Phantom Ranch. It keeps getting warmer, hotter but Bright Angel Creek keeps rendering some cool air – and it is roaring with water – almost deafening. Many bridges, old telephone poles, some deer and wild flowers make the hike fun. But we are stopping frequently for water, gatorade, rest. We drag into Phantom Ranch. Hot. Phil is beat, drops his pack and refuses to move.
Finally we find a campsite on Bright Angel Creek – a blessing. The water is cold, feels good on the feet and provides a wet cold scarf for the neck!! Ah, to relax!! But alas, we have not yet seen the Colorado – so off again and get to the river, the suspension bridge that also transports the water from Roaring Springs to the greater Southwest!!! The Colorado looks an awesome turquoise/green and is moving fast! But it is HOT, 130F in the sun according to the thermometer by the campsite and 105F in the shade. Needless to say Phil is craving a cold beer, so we trudge off for the cantina at Phantom Ranch that was air-conditioned but too full of people. Phil sees postcards “out by mule” that are sent to Robin and Steve. Then we return to the campsite for more luxury of cold water from Bright Angel Creek.
The joys were the Western Tanager that visited us (bright yellow with specks of red), the bats that came out at dusk and the stars overhead. Not such a joy were the occasions whiffs of mules from across the Creek!! Or the chicken, potato mush for dinner. But anything is OK when one is hungry and tired and Phil is such a good scout on the stove!! Not so enchanting was the visit from the Ranger showing us that we were here on the wrong day!! Fortunately, we were allowed to remain in our campsite!!
No tent tonight, just the sleeping pads and a fleece blanket (Phil’s). Jo declared that she needed nothing until of course it got cool – at which point Phil got up and threw her own fleece blanket at her!! Then it was the moon that blasted into view about 2AM, right in our eyes. So much for sleeping this night!!
June 3: Back on the trail early at 4:00AM!! Phil seems OK? So we both are praying that the return trip will be fine and that he will be able to hike out – otherwise the helicopter at Cottonwood Campground!! But now we are hiking UP!! Hurrah, we are so tired or DOWN!! Going was good along Bright Angel Creek. Cool in the shade of the canyon walls – until we hit “prickly pear park”, the desert area of the trail where we were entranced by a black banded lizard! Common to all but us!!
Past ribbon falls, getting hot – a then stop at a cool stream – soak the bandana again, relax, get some nourishment and gatorade!! Phil is tired but luckily Cotton wood campground is close!!
Get a nice campsite #7 with low shrubs and some shade!! Many lizards running around but still to HOT to stay in the campsite so we return to the cool benches by the Ranger Station. Meet some nice people whom we have been passing on the way up – Marvin Pemberton, Curt Dickerson and Larry Mitchell – all from Oregon. Marvin and Curt are high school biology teachers. Conversations allow us to pass the afternoon, get cool and get recharged. Marvin was interested in endocrine disrupting chemicals!!
Then there was the couple from Perth (Australia), healthy, strong and vital. The overweight “girls” doing Yoga. The older gentlemean who stumbled into camp disoriented and dehydrated! The young ex-army guy (we learn later) who took care of the suffering elder gentleman and got him to the Pump House for the night. But Larry himself had gotten caught with out enough water!! He abandoned his pack at ribbon falls to trek to Cotton wood. He then return for his pack and then returned to Cottonwood. Lots of steps in this HOT HARSH Canyon.
Meanwhile, dinner again – spaghetti and meatballs- this is better, spicey good.
Again tooooo hot for a tent so we sleep under the stars and under the swooping flights of BATs that are right over us!! Wow!! “Pallid bats??” Of the 34 mammal species found along the Colorado River corridor, 15 are rodents and eight are bats. There are many kinds of bats including the Mexican foxtail bats and the Western Pipistrelle bat.
Darkness hits about 8PM – suddenly Jo sees flames way up on a distant ridge. The binoculars determine that this is a building –Phil correctly surmises that it is the Grand Canyon Lodge at the North Rim!! Wow!!
June 4: Our last day in the Canyon, our day to get out – and we know that it is the toughest day of the trek –straight up for 7 miles!! We are happy to be going UP not DOWN but the height is staggering.
Alas. Up at 4:00AM and on the trail by 5:30 –just past sunrise!! Eager to be off for savoring the cool part of the day for our long, arduous trek. Phil is moving slow but OK. Mind over matter!! But our first stop is soon at the Pump House Residence – Jo is worried – this is too soon to be tired!! Keep moving Phil!! Our second stop is at the Roaring Springs Trailhead –lunch snack, gatorade, water. It is getting HOT. It is sunny – no clouds. Next stop is the bridge!! Finally we reach the Supai Tunnel. Phil seems spent at least for the moment but perks up with conversions with everyone, people from Houston/Rice (now in Tampa), Marvin and Curt appear ---
And then suddenly Scott appears!! Wow!! What a blessing. Scott to the rescue!! Scott hoists Phil’s backpack and off we go – up the worst 2mile stretch!! HOT, DRY, dusty with the mule trains passing by. GATORADE to the rescue!!
Next Coconino Outlook – Phew!! Now there is only 0.7 miles to go – still straight up ~1000 ft or so it seems!!
Finally at 1:30PM we emerge from the Canyon!! There is the Trailhead sign and there is Scott you scampered on ahead of Phil and me. We relax a bit, take some pictures and then head for Kaibab Lodge. Phil and I in the car; Scott on his motorcycle – looking “cool”.
We are all eager for a shower!! Clean hair, clean skin, cool sensations.
Suddenly, with cold beer and a glass of wine we realize that “WE MADE IT”!! Wow!! What a sense of accomplishment AND relief!! And such a treat to share the Grand Canyon experience with Scott who has never been to the North Rim. So off to the Grand Canyon Lodge and dinner at sunset – many pictures at Bright Angel Point – for Scott and for me.
We relax at dinner, enjoy the evening and then crash in bed at the Kaibab Lodge.
June 5: A day with Scott roaming Point Imperial and Cape Royale, two scenic places facing north and east and the only area from the North Rim where you can actually see The Colorado River!! Scott points out Unkar Delta, Angel Hole – places he has been and seen from The River. At Point Imperial, we can see the Vermillion Cliffs and almost to Page where Scott was staying with friends.
We have lunch and the Grand Canyon Lodge and then return to the Kaibab Lodge for Scott to pack up and head out into the hot afternoon sun toward Page. Phil and I relax until dinner – salad at Kaibab Lodge. Greens tasted so good after power bars!!
June 6: Our last day on the North Rim – at least for this year!! Breakfast is relaxed, we pack up and check out by 10AM and head back into the park for one last view – and for Phil to find Cottonwoood Campground from the Rim – a tiny speck of green so far away and so far down!! Hard to believe. We call Chris and Zhilin and email Peter.
Then on the road for the long trek to Las Vegas with a Dairy Queen stop on the way!! Easy flight and land in Houston about 10:30-11:00, home by midnight and eventually to bed by 1:30AM.
The sheer joy of succeeding is still taking time to sink in!!