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Home , Maswik Lodge, North Kaibab Trail, Tonto Trail

Northwest Explorer A Truly Hiking into the eighth wonder of the world requires careful planning owell H ohn J

The Grand Canyon from Mather Point on the South Rim. Overnight trips into the world’s most amazing canyon require a lot of advance planning. You’ll need reserve permits well in advance, hike during the appropriate season, and carry adequate water and supplies. storm. It was beautiful, but unexpected. By Diana Chin, Don Clark Pack Light to Camp I was glad we had the warmth of Maswik and John Howell in the Canyon Lodge that night. We got an early start April 25 to 28, 2005 down the the next “The most impressive scenery morning. Vicki had told me the weather I have ever looked at.” forecast predicted low temperatures —Theodore Roosevelt By Diana Chin in the 50’s, so I wasn’t prepared for temperatures in the 30’s. I wore four Vicki, a business associate from Scott- Grand Canyon is a scenic treasure layers to keep warm as we began our sdale, invited me on a four-day of unrivaled beauty, perhaps the hike. The sun was quite inviting when hike in Grand Canyon with two other most majestic place on earth. it finally appeared in the afternoon. It couples, none of whom I had hiked with Three WTA members hiked into was 7.3 miles to the bottom and Bright before. Dick and Denise from Minnesota this geological wonder during Angel Campground, but the trail wasn’t were avid bikers. Byron and Gwen live in three different seasons. Each too strenuous. Mt Si is steeper. Hiking Scottsdale and trained by hiking in their route they took was extremely poles were helpful, though. surrounding area. The idea was for two strenuous. Before you consider I learned as we got to know each of us to share a tent, kitchen supplies, going, consult the national park other that my hiking companions did and other equipment to lighten our load. website for advice on safe back- not have any backpacking experience But the week of our hike, Vicki tripped country travel in the canyon. All so they hiked slowly with frequent long and fractured three bones in her foot. I three relate their experiences of breaks, which was tiring for me. The took a hard look at my pack and pared adventure and peril here. next day I decided I would go ahead of it down to 29 pounds. them, leaving them to take long photo We arrived late afternoon to a snow- ops and giving them plenty of time to

March 2007 WASHINGTON TRAILS Northwest Explorer owell H ohn J

Hiking past red rock formations along the South Kaibab Trail. Because of intense heat and lack of water sources, the best times to hike the Grand Canyon are March-April and October-November.

catch up. and was warm. The first night we camped at Bright On day three, we hiked up Bright Grand Canyon Angel Campground. The ground was Angel Trail, stopping halfway to camp Fun Turns to hard enough to bend our tent stakes. at Indian Garden. I arrived first, picked Bright Angel Creek runs alongside the the site and set up my tent, and then the Misadventure campsites, and it was very relaxing listen- rainstorm came. After everyone was set June 25 to 26, 2006 ing to the babbling waters. There were up, I set off with Dick on a 1.5-mile hike By Don Clark several sites available to choose from, but to overlooking the canyon by late evening, all 31 sites were taken. and the . This is one of Our plan was to hike the , The second day, we hiked 6.5 miles one- the most magnificent viewpoints in the which begins 7 miles west of Grand way to Ribbon Falls, which was beautiful! canyon! Canyon Village, and then camp the first The hike was easy, but near the falls, Throughout our hike, we were amazed night at Hermit Creek camp. From there, Bright Angel Creek was too high to cross at the colors around us. The natural we would travel east on and so we took a detour over a steep hill to a cacti gardens were in their splendor camp at designated campsites for the footbridge. It was on this hike that I had with blooms of orange, yellow and red. next two nights. Tonto Trail travels along my first encounter with rattlesnakes. Too At 8 a.m. on the fourth day, we packed the Colorado River with some elevation close for my comfort! up and continued up gain and loss and reaches Indian Garden Temperatures in the canyon ranged to the South Rim. It was a pleasant day, on Bright Angel Trail at 12 miles. On this from lows of 50 degrees to highs of 75 and not nearly as steep as I expected. I leg, water is a problem. Only one small to 82. Throughout the first three days, decided to leave my companions behind spring is available for drinking water. we had sporadic showers of hard rain and hike out alone, amidst a throng of We planned to take a side hike down to and wind that would last five minutes. other hikers. I arrived at the South Rim the Colorado River to fill water bottles, Then, pleasant weather! In lieu of a rain having hiked 33 spectacular miles in adding 2 miles and some elevation loss suit, I used a 99-cent poncho, which four days. and gain. Upon reaching Bright Angel was sufficient for the conditions. At It was awe inspiring to see what nature Trail, water would then be available at night, I slept in a lightweight sleeping affords. This hike is a definite “10” and Indian Garden and at two Resthouses bag while wearing thermal underwear one I’d love to do again. on the 4.5-mile hike to the rim.

WASHINGTON TRAILS March 2007 Northwest Explorer

My brother-in-law Alan and I got on re-hydrating, Alan walked the .75 miles ter and left by 3:00 a.m. by headlamp. the trail at 6:30 a.m., which, in summer, to my pack and retrieved my sleeping After 40 minutes, we got to my pack at was way too late. Hermit Trail from the pad. He got back well after dark. the Tonto Trail junction and continued South Rim (6,640 feet) to Hermit Creek In camp, we met a couple from Norway up the trail to the Cathedral Staircase. Campsite (2,980 and four guys from At the top of the Staircase, we came feet) sounds like a San Francisco. One upon young men and women from the ervice reasonable 3,760- S of these guys was a British Army who had run out of water ark foot drop in 7.7 P marathon runner, and spent the night on the trail. Alan miles. We were in who on the way gave them some of his Gatorade and ational shade for the first N down had also lost they felt a little better. 3 to 4 hours and all of his energy We hiked on to Santa Maria Spring and then came to the and didn’t think he rested until the San Francisco guys and Cathedral Stair- could hike out on the British group came along. That was case. The sun was his own. That was at 10:00 a.m. After a good rest there, we higher and the trail how I felt that eve- took on the difficult, 2.25-mile portion was out in the open. ning! They talked to of the trail remaining to the top. We Halfway down at a ranger by satellite got to the rim at 1:30 p.m. and caught a 10:30 a.m., I be- phone and were shuttle bus to the campground and set gan to slow down told that the only up camp. in the 113-degree way out was to hike The Hermit Trail was not in good heat. I thought I The Hermit Trail, west of Grand back up the Her- shape. There were numerous slides that had been drinking Canyon Village, is a rough, poorly- mit Trail. If they made route finding necessary and requir- enough water and maintained route into the canyon. couldn’t make it the ing extra effort to get through. electrolytes, but Water is scarce. first day, they were The moral of the story is: Don’t go apparently not. A to go back down to down into the Grand Canyon in June, large toe blister became another irrita- camp, rest and try it the next day, and so July, August or September. tion. It caused considerable pain on the on until they could

short sections of the trail, and where we make it out. owell had to scramble over rockfall it seemed That’s when we H ohn to worsen. I ran out of energy by 11:30 decided it would J when we arrived at the Tonto Trail be best to hike back junction. out the next morn- This is where Alan stashed my pack, ing, scuttling our while I went ahead carrying a water planned route. I bottle. Ten minutes later I sat on a rock had sufficiently re- in 130-degree sun, 0.7 mile from Hermit covered physically Creek Campsite. Alan forced me to get and cognitively to going down the trail, all the while looking the point that we for a shady spot to rest and recover. In would have a good 0.25 mile we came to a nice-sized olive chance of getting tree near an old mule corral. We slid back out. under it and stretched out for a rest. Alan That evening we made me drink electrolyte drinks and each ate a double eat energy packs. After an hour at 1:00 meal of stew and p.m., I felt better. So, we hiked down to drank extra energy the campsite. drinks and water It was so hot in camp, we couldn’t sit to prepare for the on the rocks without burning our rear hike out. We slept ends. There was no shade to rest in. on just our pads Hermit Creek was running at a good in the dirt from flow. We got in the water to cool off. 10:00 p.m. until Little fish bit our toes, but we stayed 2:30 a.m. Once you’ve made the arduous trek down to Phantom in long enough to lower our body tem- We got up, had Ranch, numerous explorations await. Elegant Ribbon peratures. a little breakfast, Falls can be reached by hiking a relatively easy trail 12 After cooling off in Hermit Creek and filtered more wa- miles round trip along Bright Angel Creek.

March 2007 WASHINGTON TRAILS Northwest Explorer

Colorado River. In the bright sun, we Kaibab Trail to a side trail leading to is observed seven inflatable rafts beached Ribbon Falls. North Kaibab follows the Place to Stay in a sandy cove. Then a helicopter hov- Bright Angel Creek, making it a pleasant November 13 to 15, 2006 ered downstream just above the beach. hike. At 0.8 mile, we entered a 4-mile By John Howell “This is great,” I thought! “Rafting trips, canyon called The Box. Walls tower up helicopter rides and hiking the canyon. to 1,000 feet high, very close in—giving After two years of planning, Brother What could be better!” We noticed the it an awe-inspiring feeling. It is always Ken and I finally hiked the spectacular helicopter leaving promptly, hoisting a shady in The Box. Further on, as the walls Grand Canyon. large brown bag. opened up, the sun appeared. The night before, we stayed with our After crossing the Colorado at 2,200 We reached the 0.25-mile side trail wives at on the South feet elevation, we hiked past Bright Angel to a hidden grotto and popular Ribbon Rim. We bought deli sandwiches, apples Campground, reaching Phantom Ranch Falls. We climbed up behind the falls to and trail mix at Maswik Lodge that in five enjoyable hours. enjoy its refreshing spray. For an hour, night for the hike into the canyon the At the ranch we learned that heli- we took photos, ate lunch, rested and next morning. We returned to Maswik copters fly there only in emergencies. It thoroughly enjoyed the tranquility of a Lodge for their 6 a.m. breakfast before was removing a member of the rafting special place. taking a free shuttle at 7 a.m. for 2 miles team in what looked like a body bag. We During the return, we stopped to east to South Kaibab Trailhead, eleva- never did find out from the park what rest in The Box along the creek. I laid tion 6,940 feet. had happened. down on a well-constructed, trailside It was a brisk 20 degrees under over- After that reality check of canyon rock wall. The rocks were two billion cast skies as we headed into the canyon perils, we settled into a Phantom Ranch years old. This made us feel young. at 7:40. This was fine, since there is no dorm. The ranch has two dorms each Upon getting up well-rested, we saw shade or water on the 7.5-mile trail. for men and women. Each dorm has 10 five mule deer feeding along the creek, Pinyon pines are scattered among the beds, a toilet and a shower. There are 20 feet from us. rocky crevices and ledges. The trail is also cabins of various sizes totaling 52 We returned to Phantom Ranch and steep at the top, switching back sharply more beds. played cards on We soaked a picnic table be-

before coming to Cedar Ridge and open ervice views. Here, the trail descends gently. our hot, tired S tween the dorm ark In 1.5 miles, we arrived at Cedar Ridge feet in near- P and the creek. It by, refreshing was a pleasant 75

viewpoint, a rest stop with toilets. A short ational distance further, the trail skirts the east Bright Angel N degrees. A flock side of O’Neill Butte, a good viewpoint C r e ek . T h e of wild turkeys for the eastern Grand Canyon. In 3 miles, ranch suppers approached us, the trail leaves the ridgeline and comes and breakfasts squawking up a to Skeleton Point, another rest stop with are served fam- storm. One of a great viewpoint on a steep ledge. ily style and are them jumped As the sun appeared, the canyon colors t remendou s ! up on the picnic seemed to come to life. Their box lunch- bench next to me. For the next 0.5 mile, there were many es, however, are We looked at each switchbacks. Here we passed a mule team inferior in our other. He seemed packing trash out of the canyon. Then opinion. to think that I the trail moderated before coming to the Each morn- One of the most popular overnight trips wasn’t playing junction of the east-west Tonto Trail and ing, we ate at the in the park is the 7.5-mile trek from the cards very well. another rest stop. 5:30 a.m. break- South Kaibab Trailhead to Phantom “No kibitzers,” I The steepest section of the trail came fasts. If you feel Ranch. The route loses 4,740 feet of said, and he left. 0.3 mile farther, where it drops 1,600 like sleeping in, elevation. Hikers can camp at Bright That a fter- feet in 1.7 miles. After a few turns, there’s another Angel Campground or stay at the ranch, noon, Ken was we came to Panorama Point, the most at 6:30 a.m. A which you can book 13 months in ad- about to shower. impressive viewpoint on this scenic ranch employee vance. Spots fill up quickly. Ray, in the bunk trail. We enjoyed awesome views of the knocked on the above me headed canyon, the Colorado River and our first dorm door and for the shower at glimpses of Bright Angel Campground announced: “It is 5:00 a.m.” That’s 4:00 the same time. “Go ahead,” said Ken. 1,200 feet below. a.m. PST folks. Oh well, another gorgeous Ray stepped into the shower and im- Continuing the descent, we could see day in the canyon coming up! mediately exited. “There’s a scorpion in the impressive Black Bridge crossing the We hiked 6 easy miles up the North the shower!” he hollered. Ray’s buddy

WASHINGTON TRAILS March 2007 Northwest Explorer

toilets here and the 1.5 mile owell

H hike to spectactular Plateau

ohn Trip Essentials J Point starts here. A pump house at Indian Garden owell

pumps drinking water from H ohn

Roaring Springs, 9 miles up J , down to Phantom Ranch and Bright Angels campground, and up to the South Rim. After a series of many switchbacks, we came to a Redwall formation called A permit is required to stay at Jacob’s Ladder. We rested the inner canyon campgrounds. again at 3 Mile Resthouse, Obtain a camping permit from: eating lunch, enjoying views GC National Park, Backcountry and being amazed at how far Reservations Office, PO Box 129, we had come. Through binoc- Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 or by ulars we saw ravens sparring calling (928) 638-7875, noon to 4 with a condor above a cliff. p.m. PST Monday through Friday. California condors, which Visit www.nps.gov.grca to find a were nearing extinction, have form online that must be printed been reintroduced to the park and mailed or faxed to the park. since 1996 and the population Requests for permits may be made is now at 45 birds. up to four months in advance. Several mule teams with Phantom Ranch reservations are riders descended past us in made through Xanterra Parks and Steep switchbacks on the South Kaibab Trail. the last 3 miles. The trails Resorts, L.L.C., 6312 S Fiddlers One part of the descent from the rim to the seemed to get steeper from Green Circle, Suite 600, N Green- Colorado River loses 1,600 feet in just 1.7 miles. here. Or, it could have been wood Village, CO 80111, or phone Bill carried a boot into the shower and our tired legs. (888) 297-2757. Reservations may took care of the situation. In another 1.25 miles, red pictographs me made up to 13 months in ad- Incredibly, over the two nights in our can be found 50 feet above and to the vance. Space is extremely limited dorm, 10 old men produced no snor- right of the trail. Ancient handprints, hu- for the high demand, so make ing. Either that or everyone was hard man and animal, are visible. We arrived reservations early. of hearing. at the 1.5 Mile Resthouse in another 0.25 Also contact Xanterra Parks and After a hearty breakfast on the third mile. This was our last chance to rest on Resorts for hotel lodging at the rim. day, we were on the trail at 6:40 a.m. this steep section. Visit www.grandcanyonlodges. under a full moon and 51 degrees. In We reached the rim at 2:00 p.m., com. 0.3 mile we crossed the Colorado on having gained 4,400 feet in 9.5 miles the Silver Bridge and hiked west along in 7 hours, 40 minutes. There was no Use caution! the river. The up-and-down trail travels rain on this trip. We felt exhilarated on Over the Edge: Death in Grand 2 miles to Bright Angel Trail. This trail this beautiful day! Ken did a marvel- Canyon is the best-selling book ascends through Devil’s Corkscrew, ous job considering he is from flat-land at the park’s visitor centers. The a 200-foot elevation gain of twisting Florida. canyon reports 300 search and turns. A rocky wall on the left blocks We are blessed to have experienced rescue operations annually, with the morning sun. this geological marvel of nature. What an average of 10 to 12 deaths each We came to a beautiful waterfall just to spectacular scenery and an exciting year. The book describes one inci- the right of the trail. A mile later, we ar- adventure!  dent in which search and rescue rived at Indian Garden, a most welcome teams were looking for a fatality rest stop with the only drinking water on and found another body they didn’t the trail in winter. The temperature had Diana Chin is a WTA member from know was missing. Falls, heat dropped to 41 degrees. Deer roamed Everett; Don Clark is a WTA member stroke, and drowning account for near us as we hydrated, snacked and from Snohomish; John Howell is a WTA the majority of the fatalities. rested. There is a campground and member from Bellevue.

March 2007 WASHINGTON TRAILS