BUYINGGUIDE BEST OF YEAR 2014 Fog resting over Big Basin Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains. BRADLEY BROWN BRADLEY IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 2 CALIFORNIA 50 OTHER SOUTH AMERICA 76 PIEDMONT 87 TURKEY 33 WASHINGTON 51 SOUTH AFRICA 85 OTHER ITALY 88 LEBANON 39 NEW YORK 51 PORTUGAL 85 SLOVENIA 88 INDIA 43 OTHER U.S. 57 ALSACE 86 HUNGARY 88 MOROCCO 43 CANADA 66 BORDEAUX 86 ROMANIA 89 SPIRITS 43 CHILE 76 ITALIAN SPARKLING 87 BULGARIA 91 BEERS WINES 49 URUGUAY 87 OTHER EUROPE FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE the background and crushed bouquet garni on the front. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $48 MacLaren 2011 Drouthy Neebors Syrah (So- CALIFORNIA noma County). Winemaker Steve Law hails 93 Central Coast Rhône Zones from Scotland and honors his heritage with a nod to his “thirsty neighbors,” who will only gain fur- ther thirst after enjoying this Syrah. Pure to Law’s oasting meats, crackling fires, warm gin- these are arguably the most dynamic and de- cool-climate winemaking sensibilities, this offers a gerbread and peppermint spices aren’t just licious wines being made on the West Coast leathery tribute to peppery spice and bright fruit. what winter season smells like—they’re today. —V.B. basic descriptors for Syrah and other That goes for those being made in a more abv: 13.5% Price: $35 RRhône-style blends, which make them a perfect bombastic style, like Sextant’s Portolan GSM Mulvane Wine Co. 2011 White Hawk Vineyard fit for the chilly months when you’re inside with blend from Paso Robles, those leaning more to- Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Addictive 93 friends and family, ideally around tables stocked ward cool-climate pepperiness, like Big Basin in aromas of hot blackberry pie laced with cinnamon, with rich foods and hearths hot the Santa Cruz Mountains, and allspice, cola nut and a stewed cherry sauce reveal with burning embers. those somewhere in between, the promise of this popular Los Alamos Valley vine- The best of these wines are The best of like Stolpman’s Originals out yard. Dark plum fruit, but with the acidity of the plum skin, meets with candied flavors of blackberry simultaneously robust in ripe of Ballard Canyon in the Santa these wines are syrup and the freshness of soda water. A hedonistic fruit and savory in dark spices. simultaneously Ynez Valley. Syrah. —M.K. Few New World regions deliver robust in ripe Because Syrah and oth- abv: 14.3% Price: $40 these elements with more con- er Rhône varieties haven’t yet sistency than California’s Cen- fruit and savory reached the prices fetched by Red Car 2010 Estate Syrah (Fort Ross- Seaview). A case study in cool-climate, es- tral Coast, where a range of cli- other grapes, there are deals to 93 in dark spices. tate-grown Syrah, the white pepper on the nose and matic conditions allow different be had. Pay particular atten- palate is playful and exuberant, the acidity buoyant traditional Rhône varieties— tion to everything being made and lingering. The fruit takes on hushed tones of most notably Syrah—to flourish. (Rhône-style and otherwise) by Anglim, Comar- wild berry and bramble, with a soft texture inviting Syrah did not become California’s “next tin and Epiphany. one in for more. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $50 big thing,” as was widely predicted during the Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, we 1990s, and Central Coast Syrahs and blends are feature hundreds of reviews from Washington, Sanguis 2011 Misfit Syrah (Central Coast). still emerging from the shadows of more popu- New York, Chile, Portugal, France, Italy and A whirlwind of aromas—peppered black 93 lar red grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Zin- more. And, as always, be sure to check out our cherries, elderberry, caramel, toast, barrel smoke— fandel (particularly from Paso Robles) and Pi- complete database, with thousands of addition- rise off this appellation blend from German-born winemaker Matthias Pippig, who handcrafts small not Noir (from most everywhere else). But when al reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com. batches on Santa Barbara’s Eastside. It’s very soft planted in special spots and treated with care, Cheers! —Matt Kettmann on the palate, with medium-dark flavors of butter- crusted plum pie and an herbal note of pine pitch keeping it serious. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $50 fine-grained tannins and all shades of purple fruit Ampelos 2010 Gamma: The Complex Syrah and flower flavors. —M.K. (Sta. Rita Hills). A pure 100% Syrah that’s SYRAH 92 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 got an elegant sense of restraint. Bright and compel- Big Basin 2011 Old Corral Syrah (Santa Cruz ling, the fruit surrounds classically delicious layers Mountains). Like smelling a pepper shaker Anglim 2011 Syrah (Paso Robles). This is a of black pepper and charcuterie, soft tannins and a 94 with an underlying line of boysenberry fruit, this wine to smell all day long, with dried rose vibrant personality that calls out for pairing with 93 tremendously spicy, low-alcohol Syrah promises a petals, violets, cigar ash and blackberry fruit chews cured meats and sophisticated cheeses. —V.B. bright future for the 1,400-foot-high vineyard. The evolving into elegant aromas. The flavors are dis- abv: 14% Price: $35 pepper matches with purple fruits on the silky pal- tinct and delicious as well, with long-lingering pep- ate, altogether delivering a refreshing yet savory ex- per spice, plum jam and beautiful florals.Editors’ B Cellars 2011 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah perience. —M.K. Choice. —M.K. (Napa Valley). Made from 100% Syrah and 92 abv: 13.4% Price: $55 abv: 14.8% Price: $28 aged in half new French oak, this brawny Syrah hails from a vineyard known for its mix of power Stolpman 2012 Originals Syrah (Ballard Foxen 2012 Tinaquaic Vineyard Syrah (Santa and finesse. Sanguine and smoky, the fruit leans to- Canyon). Distinctive and unique aromas of Maria Valley). This dry-farmed vineyard re- ward blueberry and the texture to leather, a streak 94 93 blueberry, sawdust pencil shavings, freshly tanned liably delivers memorable wines, including this Syr- of graphite in the background. Tannins are firm and leather and fennel seed swirl amidst a mysterious ah, redolent with notes of oregano, thyme, charred sizable, with a balanced finish. —V.B. minty element. It’s silky and lush once sipped, with beef and tar. The herbs, fruit and smoke integrate abv: 14.9% Price: $60 smoothly on the palate, with boysenberry fruit in Continued on Page 15 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag- ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Andrew Hoover, and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzer- land; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in Cali- fornia; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Woodward Canyon 2011 Old Vines Cabernet Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Sauvignon (Washington). The Cabernet Syrah (Red Mountain). Two clones of Syrah Washington. 96 94 If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- comes from 40-year-old vines at Champoux and were blended and aged in neutral oak, often the best tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- Sagemoor, with small amounts of Petit Verdot and choice for this expressive grape. Dark and concen- ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Syrah in the blend. Black cherry, cassis, iron and trated blue and purple fruit is dusted with white Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman graphite combine in a sturdy, authoritative, power- pepper. Streaks of espresso and dark chocolate keep and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its ful midpalate. Licorice and espresso flavors streak the finish long and lively.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us through the lengthy finish. This is quite tight and abv: 15.5% Price: $39 by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content compact, and will require decanting if drunk young, cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. and lengthy cellaring—20 years or longer—to reach its full potential. Cellar Selection. —P.G. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. abv: 14.4% Price: $99 Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.