BUYINGGUIDE BEST OF YEAR 2014

Fog resting over Big Basin in the Santa Cruz Mountains. BRADLEY BROWN BRADLEY

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 2 50 OTHER 76 PIEDMONT 87 TURKEY 33 WASHINGTON 51 SOUTH AFRICA 85 OTHER ITALY 88 LEBANON 39 NEW YORK 51 PORTUGAL 85 SLOVENIA 88 INDIA 43 OTHER U.S. 57 ALSACE 86 88 MOROCCO 43 CANADA 66 BORDEAUX 86 ROMANIA 89 SPIRITS 43 CHILE 76 ITALIAN SPARKLING 87 BULGARIA 91 49 87 OTHER EUROPE

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the background and crushed bouquet garni on the front. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

MacLaren 2011 Drouthy Neebors Syrah (So- CALIFORNIA 93 noma County). Winemaker Steve Law hails Central Coast Rhône Zones from Scotland and honors his heritage with a nod to his “thirsty neighbors,” who will only gain fur- ther thirst after enjoying this Syrah. Pure to Law’s oasting meats, crackling fires, warm - these are arguably the most dynamic and de- cool-climate sensibilities, this offers a gerbread and peppermint spices aren’t just licious wines being made on the West Coast leathery tribute to peppery spice and bright fruit. what winter season smells like—they’re today. —V.B. basic descriptors for Syrah and other That goes for those being made in a more abv: 13.5% Price: $35 RRhône-style blends, which make them a perfect bombastic style, like Sextant’s Portolan GSM Mulvane Co. 2011 White Hawk fit for the chilly months when you’re inside with blend from Paso Robles, those leaning more to- 93 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Addictive friends and family, ideally around tables stocked ward cool-climate pepperiness, like Big Basin in aromas of hot blackberry pie laced with cinnamon, with rich foods and hearths hot the Santa Cruz Mountains, and allspice, cola nut and a stewed cherry sauce reveal with burning embers. those somewhere in between, the promise of this popular Los Alamos Valley vine- The best of these wines are The best of like Stolpman’s Originals out yard. Dark plum fruit, but with the acidity of the plum skin, meets with candied flavors of blackberry simultaneously robust in ripe of Ballard Canyon in the Santa these wines are syrup and the freshness of soda water. A hedonistic fruit and savory in dark spices. simultaneously Ynez Valley. Syrah. —M.K. Few New World regions deliver robust in ripe Because Syrah and oth- abv: 14.3% Price: $40 these elements with more con- er Rhône varieties haven’t yet sistency than California’s Cen- fruit and savory reached the prices fetched by Red Car 2010 Estate Syrah (Fort Ross- Seaview). A case study in cool-climate, es- tral Coast, where a range of cli- other grapes, there are deals to 93 in dark spices. tate-grown Syrah, the white pepper on the nose and matic conditions allow different be had. Pay particular atten- palate is playful and exuberant, the acidity buoyant traditional Rhône varieties— tion to everything being made and lingering. The fruit takes on hushed tones of most notably Syrah—to flourish. (Rhône-style and otherwise) by Anglim, Comar- wild berry and bramble, with a soft texture inviting Syrah did not become California’s “next tin and Epiphany. one in for more. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $50 big thing,” as was widely predicted during the Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, we 1990s, and Central Coast Syrahs and blends are feature hundreds of reviews from Washington, Sanguis 2011 Misfit Syrah (Central Coast). still emerging from the shadows of more popu- New York, Chile, Portugal, France, Italy and 93 A whirlwind of aromas—peppered black lar red grapes like and Zin- more. And, as always, be sure to check out our cherries, elderberry, caramel, toast, barrel smoke— fandel (particularly from Paso Robles) and Pi- complete database, with thousands of addition- rise off this appellation blend from German-born winemaker Matthias Pippig, who handcrafts small not Noir (from most everywhere else). But when al reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com. batches on Santa Barbara’s Eastside. It’s very soft planted in special spots and treated with care, Cheers! —Matt Kettmann on the palate, with medium-dark flavors of butter- crusted plum pie and an herbal note of pine pitch keeping it serious. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

fine-grained tannins and all shades of purple fruit Ampelos 2010 Gamma: The Complex Syrah SYRAH and flower flavors. —M.K. 92 (Sta. Rita Hills). A pure 100% Syrah that’s abv: 14.5% Price: $42 got an elegant sense of restraint. Bright and compel- Big Basin 2011 Old Corral Syrah (Santa Cruz ling, the fruit surrounds classically delicious layers 94 Mountains). Like smelling a pepper shaker Anglim 2011 Syrah (Paso Robles). This is a of black pepper and charcuterie, soft tannins and a with an underlying line of boysenberry fruit, this 93 wine to smell all day long, with dried rose vibrant personality that calls out for pairing with tremendously spicy, low-alcohol Syrah promises a petals, violets, cigar ash and blackberry fruit chews cured meats and sophisticated cheeses. —V.B. bright future for the 1,400-foot-high vineyard. The evolving into elegant aromas. The flavors are dis- abv: 14% Price: $35 pepper matches with purple fruits on the silky pal- tinct and delicious as well, with long-lingering pep- ate, altogether delivering a refreshing yet savory ex- per spice, plum jam and beautiful florals.Editors’ B Cellars 2011 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah perience. —M.K. Choice. —M.K. 92 (Napa Valley). Made from 100% Syrah and abv: 13.4% Price: $55 abv: 14.8% Price: $28 aged in half new French oak, this brawny Syrah hails from a vineyard known for its mix of power Stolpman 2012 Originals Syrah (Ballard Foxen 2012 Tinaquaic Vineyard Syrah (Santa and finesse. Sanguine and smoky, the fruit leans to- 94 Canyon). Distinctive and unique aromas of 93 Maria Valley). This dry-farmed vineyard re- ward blueberry and the texture to leather, a streak blueberry, sawdust pencil shavings, freshly tanned liably delivers memorable wines, including this Syr- of graphite in the background. Tannins are firm and leather and fennel seed swirl amidst a mysterious ah, redolent with notes of oregano, thyme, charred sizable, with a balanced finish. —V.B. minty element. It’s silky and lush once sipped, with beef and tar. The herbs, fruit and smoke integrate abv: 14.9% Price: $60 smoothly on the palate, with boysenberry fruit in

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag- ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Andrew Hoover, and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzer- land; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in Cali- fornia; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean ­Sullivan in Woodward Canyon 2011 Old Vines Cabernet Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Washington. 96 Sauvignon (Washington). The Cabernet 94 Syrah (Red Mountain). Two clones of Syrah If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- comes from 40-year-old vines at Champoux and were blended and aged in neutral oak, often the best tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- Sagemoor, with small amounts of Petit Verdot and choice for this expressive grape. Dark and concen- ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Syrah in the blend. Black cherry, cassis, iron and trated blue and purple fruit is dusted with white Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman graphite combine in a sturdy, authoritative, power- pepper. Streaks of espresso and dark chocolate keep and all reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its ful midpalate. Licorice and espresso flavors streak the finish long and lively.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us through the lengthy finish. This is quite tight and abv: 15.5% Price: $39 by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content compact, and will require decanting if drunk young, cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. and lengthy cellaring—20 years or longer—to reach its full potential. Cellar Selection. —P.G. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. abv: 14.4% Price: $99 Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Diamond Creek 2011 Volcanic Hill Cabernet Often good value; well recommended. Very Good 87–89: Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The Volcanic Hill Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 94 often good value. Black Stallion 2010 Transcendent Cabernet section of Diamond Creek’s vineyard on Diamond Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The inaugural Mountain is, as advertised, influenced by volcanic critical circumstances. 95 release of this top-echelon Cabernet Sauvignon for soils. The wine imparts a chalky consistency to Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 the winery, it delivers in spicy black clove and berry some extent, rounded out by dark, ripe plum and points) are not reviewed. encased around barrel toast and mocha. A Napa Val- mocha, with a long, intense finish. Age through SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS ley Cabernet, blended with 11% , it features 2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price seamless, silky tannins. The wine’s overall imprint abv: 13.5% Price: $200 with unique qualities that merit special attention. is soft, supple and restrained, with a long, lingering Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to finish. —V.B. reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation abv: 14.5% Price: $135 does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener- ally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there Continuum 2011 Red (Napa Valley). This is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be 94 classic Napa Valley blend—the majority Janzen 2011 Cloudy’s Vineyard Cabernet accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may Cabernet Sauvignon, supported by 12% Petit Verdot 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Sourced from the be downloaded from our Web site. (quite noticeable in the wine), 11% winery’s estate vineyard, 2% Syrah is added to the LABELS and 2% Merlot—is made from grapes grown on vol- Cabernet Sauvignon base of this wine. Massively Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given canic soils. Needing a decant or many years in cellar, structured, it offers tart cranberry fruit, soft tan- the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information it is savory and dusty in coffee and Mediterranean nins and a bite of weight to the finish. Aged in new on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax spice, the fruit predominantly blackberry and plum French oak for 22 months, it features an intrigu- 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. and the tannins supple but not yet smooth. Cellar ing whiff of coconut macaroon. Drink from 2020– Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at Selection. —V.B. 2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 14.7% Price: $175 abv: 14.9% Price: $100

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Double Canyon 2012 Double Canyon Vineyard Woodward Canyon 2012 Artist Series #21 Della 2012 (Sonoma Coast). 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). This 93 Pretty in floral aromatics of orange blossom Somewhat light in color, this is an aromatically ap- wine has deeply concentrated yet focused and spicy and lemon verbena, this balanced, lush, delicious pealing wine that shows a complex assortment of purple-fruit tones. It’s generously endowed with wine comes from a relatively new, small producer. coffee, vanilla, pencil lead, cherry, blueberry and notes of tobacco, licorice, mineral and pepper. The Grapes were sourced from the Charles Ranch, which high-toned herbal notes. It’s exquisitely polished in highlights keep piling on through a finish that seems is planted to Wente Chardonnay. Apple and citrus its styling, with plush tannins and a long, lingering to run for several minutes. This bold wine is enjoy- intermingle in nice balance, as do minerality and finish. A pretty expression of the variety that shows able now but should also cellar well through 2020. creaminess on the texture. Though the wine spent a great degree of elegance and deftness, it drinks Editors’ Choice. —P.G. over a year in French oak, 40% of it new, the oak is well out of the gate but continues to improve with abv: 14.6% Price: $59 unobtrusive, detectable mostly on the finish. —V.B. additional time to breathe. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Woodward Canyon 2011 Estate Reserve 94 Cabernet Franc-Petit Verdot (Walla Walla Valley). In this cool vintage that followed a winter Epiphany 2011 Revelation (Santa Barbara freeze, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot ripened Diamond Creek 2011 Red Rock Terrace Caber- 93 County). Fess Parker’s sister winery hits well, making this an interesting wine that’s reflec- 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From a seven- a savory home run with this blend of 62% Syrah tive of the year. It’s a lovely Cabernet Franc, with acre section of the vineyard, this offers plenty of and 38% , which presents game, leather, dark and supple black cherry, cassis, blueberry, saddle leather and cedar amidst spicy cardamom blackberry extract and sage on the nose. Purple fruit mocha and cinnamon notes. A scent of fresh coffee layers, a soft, juicy core and tingling acidity. The leads the palate, with dark chocolate on the midpal- accompanies the penetrating fruit flavors, and the structure and weight suggest the ability to cellar ate and strong acidity and smooth tannins through- ripe tannins and classic structure are there to age comfortably through 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B. out. —M.K. for up to 20 years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $200 abv: 15.5% Price: $44 abv: 14.5% Price: $79

Kiona 2012 Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Red Mountain). This flagship effort show- Domaine Weinbach 2013 Cuvée Théo cases the winery’s oldest block of Cabernet, planted 93 (Alsace). This is pure Riesling, very mineral, in 1975—the first vineyard on Red Mountain. The Bernard Magrez 2011 Domaine Excelcio steely and direct. With intense acidity as well as the subtle, slightly grainy and grassy nuances of old- 93 (Guerrouane). Tones of black cherry, toffee, crispest green and citrus fruits, it’s still very young. vine grapes are here, with red-fruit flavors that are tobacco, tar and violet show boldly on the nose and The fresh current gives an initial lift while keeping soft and delicate, yet substantial. There’s a light palate of this Moroccan red. Powerful tannins pro- the concentrated texture in mind. Drink from 2017. dusting of cinnamon, a whiff of smoke and an over- vide a suitable backdrop for fruit and spice flavors Vineyard Brands. —R.V. riding elegance. Such old vine, 100% Red Mountain alongside an ever-present sense of brightness that abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Cabernet from a great vintage doesn’t come along lasts into the finish. Terra Firma USA Inc. —M.D. very often.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $65

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Lynmar 2012 Susanna’s Vineyard Chardon- 93 nay (Russian River Valley). Weighty and creamy in rich tones of just-picked pineapple and Still Waters 2009 Reflections of Still Waters Byron 2012 Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay Key lime, this is round and expansive on the palate, 93 Estate Grown (Paso Robles). The 92 (Santa Maria Valley). The aromas of this with undertones of earth and herb. Complex lay- best Still Waters release right now, this presents a Chardonnay are zesty and fresh yet rich, with - ers of apple and almond interplay, before a finish of sophisticated nose of cherry chutney, black pepper, rel smoke, caramelized pear and vanilla tones. The honey and spice lingers. —V.B. blueberry and burning sagebrush. On the palate, integration continues on the palate, with a bit of oak abv: 14.4% Price: $55 blueberry fruit gets dashed with more black sage followed by apple, white peach, nectarine and lime and tobacco, and the acidity and tannins are just zest. It’s flavorful and enjoyable now. —M.K. right. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $32 abv: 14.4% Price: $38

Quintessa 2011 Red (Rutherford). For the 93 2011 vintage, Winemaker Charles Thomas Trimbach 2011 Réserve Riesling (Alsace). As 2011 Limited Release X Clones blended Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet 93 the wine ages, it shows a soft, toasty and 92 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Franc and Petit Verdot from the winery’s 280-acre nutty side that adds complexity to the tight fruiti- Valley). This is woody, silky, and balanced between biodynamic and organically farmed estate in the ness that remains. It’s a wine in transition, still tones of tobacco leaf and herb and a swath of dark heart of Rutherford. The effect is memorable, the fresh while adding some concentration, broaden- leather. It’s high-toned and elegant, showcasing the wine pungent in red plum and cherry. Light, lay- ing the steely texture and giving hints of the seri- softer side of Cabernet from a cool vintage, with a ered and elegantly smooth on the palate, it has a ous wine it will be. Drink from 2018. Esprit du Vin. lengthy, memorable finish. —V.B. backdrop of black pepper and clove. Cellar through —R.V. abv: 13.9% Price: $100 2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 14.2% Price: $145

Arbor Crest 2012 Avansino Grand Reserve San Simeon 2010 Estate Reserve Cabernet 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This Epiphany 2011 Syrah-Cabernet (Santa Bar- 93 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Elegant and at- is the first vintage for this blend of 75% Cabernet 92 bara County). Many red wines from Epiph- tractive aromas of dark violet, red rose, cedar and Sauvignon and 25% Sangiovese. Ripe, lush and any, run by the family of the late actor Fess Parker, a touch of vanilla serve as a promising entry point complex, it offers flavors of plum and cassis, with an have a nose-tickling singed-cedar aroma. It works to this Cabernet. A bit of char kicks in on the palate appealing texture and moderately gripping tannins. great on this blend of 57% Syrah and 43% Cabernet alongside dark chocolate, espresso and ripe plum There’s life and snap to the finish, and though it’s Sauvignon, leading into a palate heavy with espres- skin, with roasted beet in the background. Editors’ already delicious just two years after the vintage, so and dark chocolate-dipped cherries, culminating Choice. —M.K. another year or two of bottle age should see it con- in a mocha finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 tinue to improve. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $28

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Martin Ray 2012 Dutton Ranch Mill Station Hess Collection 2011 Small Block Reserve 92 Vineyard Chardonnay (Green Valley). This is 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A 100% an excellent Chardonnay for an accessible price. It’s Ferguson Crest 2011 Fergalicious (Santa Cabernet Sauvignon made in small amounts from balanced and textured, with bites of apple and an- 92 Ynez Valley). Black Eyed Peas singer Fergie multiple vineyards, including Beckstoffer Missouri ise highlighting the journey. Power and finesse are and Winemaker Joey Tensley converge on a blend Hopper in Oakville and the Somerston Vineyard on offered in equal measure. A delicious wine for the of Syrah, Merlot, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvi- the eastern edges of the Napa Valley. Rich and con- table, it will impress with its depth and complexity. gnon that’s worth sitting on until at least 2019. centrated in black plum and berry, this is a supple Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Woody, cigar box aromas pick up notes of camphor wine that’s highlighted by a seasoning of dusty tan- abv: 14.1% Price: $30 and flashes of red fruit, and the flavors fall in line nins and coconut shavings. The finish is awash in around the cedar, with blueberry, black cherry and chocolate and cinnamon. —V.B. milk chocolate. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $100 abv: 14.6% Price: $40

Prim Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 (Howell Mountain). Fresh, brambly rasp- berry and cherry open this wine that’s structured in firm tannins and ripe, lingering layers of tobacco Fort Ross 2012 Fort Ross Vineyard Chardon- Kiona 2012 Estate Bottled Reserve (Red and clove. The Cabernet is blended with smaller 92 nay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Unctuous and ripe 92 Mountain). This Cabernet-based blend of- amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot. This one is in caramel and toasty aromas, this is deep golden fers lovely black cherry flavors and scents of violet, enjoyable now, with a long and clean finish, but it in color but completely crisp and balanced in the with a hint of licorice and substantial, ripe tan- will also cellar well through 2022. Cellar Selection. glass. The nose is so overwhelming that the flavors nins on the palate. It can age for at least another —V.B. take time to show. Once they do, it’s a celebration of 6–8 years, though it’s drinking quite nicely already. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 green apple and melon enveloped in complex miner- —P.G. ality and a supple body. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $42 abv: 14.2% Price: $44

Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 92 (Russian River Valley). Honeysuckle and jas- Herdade Paço do Conde 2009 Reserva (Alen- mine pique interest aromatically before luscious, Rock Wall 2013 Kristen’s Cuvee (Cal- 92 tejano). Aged for 14 months in oak, this is a linear waves of vanilla, caramel and lemon custard 92 ifornia). Abundant flavors combine with a rich, concentrated and dense yet smooth wine. Lic- graciously interject, buoyed by ample acidity and a plush texture to make a wine that slowly builds in- orice and cassis combine, with some bitterness on lush texture. This Chardonnay offers generous rich- terest from the first sniff to the lingering aftertaste. the firm palate. Give it time for the tannins to mel- ness alongside high-toned minerality, and is a deli- Hints of vanilla and honeysuckle enhance the vivid low and harmonize a bit further; drink after 2016. cious go-to for buttery lobster dishes. —V.B. apricot flavors, lasting long on the viscous palate Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 and through the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $53 abv: 13.8% Price: $20

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Black Stallion 2010 Limited Release Cabernet 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich and varietally Sequoia Grove 2010 Cambium (Napa Valley). expressive on the nose, this Cabernet Sauvignon is Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 Old Vine 92 Muted black plum teases from the nose of softened by the addition of 15% Merlot, the two 91 (Dry Creek Valley). Zesty in black pepper and this wine, a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% combining in layers of ripe plum and tobacco. With luscious in blackberry, blueberry and raspberry, the Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. mouthwatering acidity and firm tannins, it offers a grapes are from 90-plus-year-old hillside vines. Amidst a wall of dusty tannins still needing time to complete package of enjoyable, approachable Cab- Complex and structured, it offers a balanced point soften, you’ll find clove, blackberry and a treasure ernet. —V.B. of view and plenty of intrigue, simultaneously fresh trove of chocolate and vanilla. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 and brooding. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.4% Price: $125

Fess Parker 2011 Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah Complicated 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma 91 (Santa Barbara County). Warm, slightly 91 County). This is a delicious Chardonay. It sweet aromas of smoked applewood and hickory Talley 2012 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Ar- dances in pear, peach and lemon notes. Balanced waft from this rich and decadent Syrah sourced 92 royo Grande Valley). Buttered sourdough and addictive, it’s easy to love and not overly com- from the Fess Parker estate. On the dark fruit-laced toast and a slight nuttiness kick off another excel- plicated at all. Encased in just enough oak to provide palate are black currant and cherry cola flavors, bol- lent Chardonnay from the ever-reliable Talley. The texture and weight, this is a great wine for parties stered by black licorice and followed by a long finish palate is greeted with minerality that fades into an or casual dinners, pairable with just about anything. of vanilla cream. —M.K. apple butter flavor alongside a pinch of cinnamon, Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $49 culminating in a graceful vanilla finish. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $27

Zaca Mesa 2011 Mesa Reserve Estate Grown Diamond Creek 2011 Gravelly Meadow Cab- 92 and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). In 91 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From the Fess Parker 2011 The Big Easy (Santa Barbara 1978, Zaca Mesa became the first winery to plant winery’s most pebbly five-acre section of vineyard 91 County). This proprietary blend starts with Syrah in Santa Barbara County, and Winemaker atop Diamond Mountain, this is dark black-purple a very gamy though thoroughly enjoyable nose of Eric Mohseni keeps pushing the quality. This offers in color. The tannins are soft but powerful, eager to charred meat, coffee, berry and compost. On the notes of blueberry cobbler, rocks and fresh-turned age through 2025–2027, while the fruit lies on the palate, there is espresso, dried herbs and black soil, followed by blue fruit flavors, dark chocolate, currant and plum side of things, with a bit of cedar cherry, proving to be a complex and savory yet very leather and slight asphalt. —M.K. lurking through. Cellar Selection. —V.B. easy-to-like wine. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 13.5% Price: $200 abv: 14.9% Price: $35

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Michael David 2012 6th Sense Syrah (Lodi). Franciscan 2012 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay Ixsir 2009 Grande Réserve (Lebanon). Aro- 91 Richness (of both flavor and texture) marks 91 (Carneros). A classic Napa Valley Chardon- 91 mas of cherry and vanilla continue to the this deeply colored, full-bodied Syrah. Aromas of nay, this is smooth, rich, balanced and well com- palate alongside notes of toffee, smoked meat and ripe blackberry and licorice coupled with flavors of posed. Flowery aromas of honeysuckle open the way roasted red pepper. A well-balanced wine, with fla- clove and blackberry jam make it luscious yet not for lemon curd and ripe apple to compete with a vors that are equal parts fruity and savory, the fin- overly big. It has the firm tannins and good balance depth of crème brûlée character that provides plen- ish boasts lingering tannins and bright acidity. Fine for aging through 2019. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. ty of complexity, with additional accents of honey Terroir Selections, Misa Imports. —M.D. abv: 15% Price: $16 and spice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Hovey 2012 Rolleri Cuvée Tempranillo (Calav- Milbrandt 2011 Sentinel Northridge Vineyard 91 eras County). Bold and effusive in flavor, this J. Portugal Ramos 2012 Ramos Premium Vinho 91 Red Wine (Wahluke Slope). A Cabernet-based full-bodied red gives ripe, concentrated, focused 91 Tinto (Alentejano). From a blend of grapes blend, with Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, this fruit flavors that recall boysenberry and blackberry. that includes Touriga Nacional, this wine is serious offers pleasing aromatic complexity, with notes of Tannins create that grippy, dry sensation that tames and dense. It has a solid texture along with concen- coffee, dark fruit and vanilla, accented by floral big slabs of meat. An attractive take on a traditional trated dark-plum flavors. It’s a powerhouse of firm overtones. The palate is full bodied, with abundant Spanish grape variety; drink now. —J.G. tannins, juicy fruits and a fine layer of spice from coffee and cherry flavors backed by firm tannins. abv: 14.8% Price: $26 wood aging. Drink after 2015. Winebow.Editors’ The fruit and oak seem to tussle a bit at present; try Choice. —R.V. after 2017. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $55

Ixsir 2009 Altitudes Rouge (Lebanon). Deep 91 ruby in color, with aromas of black cherry, Kendall-Jackson 2013 Vintner’s Reserve Char- Quivira 2012 Wine Creek Ranch Grenache (Dry chocolate and sage, this blend has enticing flavors 91 donnay (California). This is a tasty and acces- 91 Creek Valley). Made from 100% Demeter- of blackberry, cherry, salted caramel and menthol. sibly priced Chardonnay. It packs in lots of fruit fla- certified biodynamic grapes, this wine has a bou- Fruit and savory tones are well integrated alongside vor, vibrant acidity, rich texture and layers of oaky quet of baked strawberry tart that makes it unique smooth tannins, and the bright finish shows a last- spice while showing a rare sense of seamlessness. and full of personality. Amidst that is great peppery ing note of menthol. Fine Terroir Selections, Misa Very Californian and compelling. Editors’ Choice. and earthy spice as well as a hint of dust, with a Imports. —M.D. —J.G. long-lasting finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.7% Price: $32

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Vina Robles 2013 White4 (Paso Robles). Ghost Block 2011 Single Vineyard Cabernet Santa Rita 2010 Triple C Estate Bottled Red 91 Fresh-squeezed apple juice, grapefruit 90 Sauvignon (Yountville). Plummy and high- 91 Wine (Maipo Valley). Slightly green, minty spritzer and nearly sweet cherry aromas sit atop toned in red currant and cranberry, this single- aromas of tobacco, spice, purple flower and saw- minerality on the nose of this blend of 46% Viog- vineyard Cabernet is a stunner. It’s balanced and dust filter onto a structured, lively palate. Flavors nier, 19% Verdelho, 19% Vermentino and 16% elegant, soft in tannins and well structured. A wine of dark berry fruits are accented by mint, coffee and . There’s a lot of tart acidity, with a that will improve with age, it also gets better in the chocolate, while the finish hits with controlled heat lingering apple flavor. —M.K. glass after opening. —V.B. and herbal berry flavors. Drink this Cabernet Franc- abv: 14.9% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère blend through 2020. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Kiona 2012 Syrah (Red Mountain). From 90 young vines, this wine offers up pretty Sextant 2011 Kamal Cabernet Sauvignon Epiphany 2011 Gypsy (Santa Barbara Coun- scents of rose petals and lightly peppery strawber- 91 (Paso Robles). Sharp anise, violet and men- 90 ty). Earthy aromas of fresh tarragon and ries. Just 5% Mourvèdre was included, but its pres- thol scents swirl around a core of rich blackberry burnt cedar make an intriguing start to this wine, ence brings a dash of extra spice and herb. —P.G. jam on this wine, hitting the palate with serious whose soft opening on the palate veers quickly into abv: 14.4% Price: $25 thickness. The Kamal, named after an 8th-century heavy flavors of chopped oregano. A plum element navigation device, also features the other four Bor- emerges faintly on the midpalate, but this is a solid deaux varietals. It delivers flavors of deep plum jelly, wine for herb lovers. —M.K. cherry syrup, pepper and cedar. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.59% Price: $42

Lamoreaux Landing 2013 Estate Bottled 90 Unoaked T23 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). Starfield 2011 Cabernet-Merlot (Napa Val- Touches of sage and tarragon breathe freshness into 91 ley). This juicy, minerally blend is composed Flora Springs 2012 Merlot (Napa Valley). succulent red cherry and berry aromas on this rich, of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot. The 90 This 100% Merlot is juicy in black cherry full-bodied Cabernet Franc. The palate shows off winery aims to source from cool vineyard sites and and plum flavors, followed by outbursts of dusty pure, pristine red fruit, jolted by a shock of cranber- this bottling is true to that in style—elegant and tannin that provide just enough grip. The savory ry acidity and a lingering wet-granite finish. —A.I. balanced, subtle in tannins and aged in only 50% cinnamon and clove aspects are backed by toasty abv: 13.15% Price: $20 new oak. Bay leaf and mint come to the fore ahead oak, a silky texture and plenty of acidity. Editors’ of clove. —V.B. Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $25

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Lynmar 2013 Laguna Ridge Chardonnay Miro 2012 Piccetti Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Sequoia Grove 2010 Tonella Vineyard Caber- 90 (Sonoma County). This highly accessible, 90 Creek Valley). This offers excellent refine- 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From a vine- reasonably priced Chardonnay sees no new oak. ment, with high-toned red-berry fruit and sarsapa- yard in the heart of Rutherford replanted in time It offers aromatics of orange blossom and fresh- rilla that are on the edge of jammy—in a good way. to make the 2010 vintage, this Tonella Cabernet is squeezed lemon followed by a lean texture of more Noticeable yet balanced acidity and generous tan- dark black and dense in black cherry, tobacco and lemon, honeysuckle and melon. Stock up. —V.B. nins provide a solid structure. —V.B. chocolate. Ready to age until 2017 or so, the wine abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 imparts a lift of acidity on the finish.Cellar Selec- tion. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $90

Morse 2011 Horseplay Estate (Amador Coun- Midnight Cellars 2009 Mare Nectaris Re- 90 ty). Distinctive in aroma and flavor profile, 90 serve Red Wine (Paso Robles). This Bor- this medium-bodied red smells like cedar, tobacco Six Sigma Ranch 2013 Asbilll Valley Sauvi- deaux-style blend of 25% Merlot, 25% Malbec, and black pepper. A blend of Mourvèdre, Monte­ 90 gnon Blanc (Lake County). Tasty and well 25% Cabernet Franc, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and pulciano and , it boasts an earthy personal- integrated, this offers fresh fruit flavors married 12% Petit Verdot greets the nose with purple fruits, ity that is appealing and unique. Fifteen percent of to subtle oak nuances. It’s medium bodied and cigar box and menthol. The soft palate is saturated the proceeds from the sale of this wine are contrib- balanced in acidity, which bolsters the ripe fruit with blackberry pie and peppery spice, presented uted to the Return To Freedom Wild Horse Sanctu- flavors, vanilla and baking spice accents.Editors’ with nicely chalky tannins. —M.K. ary. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. Choice. —J.G. abv: 15.7% Price: $52 abv: 14.3% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Starfield 2011 The Starbeam Cabernet Migration 2012 Charles Heintz Vineyard Sequoia Grove 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A new wine by 90 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Sourced from 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From father-son team Tom and Rob Sinton, whose fore- a prime site embedded within the cool confines of the rocky Stagecoach Vineyard atop Atlas Peak, bears partnered with Louis Martini during Prohibi- Green Valley, this is crisp yet rich, intensely creamy this Cabernet is hearty in tannins and built to age tion. This blends in Merlot and Petit Verdot from and ripe in pear, lemon and caramel. It’s refined and through 2020, the dense black berry and cherry a handful of vineyards, including Stagecoach and balanced in acidity, too. The finish offers a taste of fruit flavors needing time to mature. For now, the Konrad. It’s herbal and peppery, exhibiting dark crème brûlée and wet stone. —V.B. wine’s character is all savory and leathery, with berry and coffee notes as well as soft, mellowed tan- abv: 14.1% Price: $55 tight tannins. Cellar Selection. —V.B. nins. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $90 abv: 14.5% Price: $65

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Toulouse 2013 Helluva Vineyard Pinot Gris Taken 2011 Red Wine (Napa Valley). This is 90 (Anderson Valley). Fresh, crisp and un- William Hill Estate 2011 Benchmark (Napa 90 the product of two childhood friends, both complicated, this offers aromas of honey and sliced 90 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Ver- of whom grew up in the wine business in Napa Val- peaches, with a lively texture and good balance. dot combine harmoniously in this concentrated, ley. Taken, if this wine is any indication, aims to of- Medium-bodied, it makes a great wine for a picnic, structured and brooding red wine. It’s wrapped in fer great Napa Valley wine at affordable prices. This before dinner or with seafood. —J.G. black fruit, black tea and herb tones, with a little Cabernet-Merlot blend is smooth in juicy red and abv: 14.3% Price: $24 clove flirting above the fray. The tannins are dry. blue fruit and completely silky tannins, completely —V.B. satisfying for all kinds of scenarios. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $95 —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Trimbach 2012 Riesling (Alsace). A wonder- 90 fully aromatic wine that’s bone dry, fresh and textured. A steely edge gives a mineral, tight character that emphasizes the youth of the wine. Columbia Winery 2013 Grenache Rosé (Horse The Divining Rod 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon With a dominance of orange and lemon zest, plus 89 Heaven Hills). This wine is electric pink 90 (Alexander Valley). A project of Marc Mon- juicy acidity, the wine does need a year or two; drink in color, with notes of strawberry bubblegum and davi, this wine is a blend of mostly Cabernet Sau- after 2016. Esprit du Vin.Editors’ Choice. —R.V. cranberry. It drinks off dry, with watermelon and vignon, rounded out by tiny percentages of Petit abv: 12.5% Price: $22 red fruit flavors that linger on the finish. —S.S. Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. Juicy abv: 13.9% Price: $24 in dark cherry and blackberry fruit, it is well com- posed, with a smoky undercurrent. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Viña La Ronciere 2011 Quiron Carmenère Davis Bynum 2012 River West Vineyard Char- 90 (Colchagua Valley). Jammy blackberry, 89 donnay (Russian River Valley). A sizable rubber, graphite and raw oak aromas set up a full, barrel imprint shows aromatically, the gist of which Tolosa 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso weighty palate. Flavors of mint, licorice, creamy oak is caramel and toffee. Those aromas are followed by 90 Robles). Cassis spritzer and pine tree-like and chocolate accent brambly black-fruit flavors, softly textured, intense flavors of baked apple and herbals provide a promising start on the nose. It’s while a minty finish simmers with power and subtle crème brûlée. The well-made finish imparts a touch rich in the mouth, with cherry, blackberry and a warmth. Drink through 2016. Simone International. of smoky oak. —V.B. nice edge of black pepper. —M.K. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.4% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $30

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Matchbook 2010 Tempranillo (Dunnigan Naggiar 2010 Don Giovanni Estate Grown Pull 2010 CdR (Paso Robles). Pull’s well- 89 Hills). Layered and well textured, this is a 89 (Sierra Foothills). This bold, dry, firmly tan- 89 priced portfolio delivers consistent quality, dense and deeply colored wine, with black plum and nic wine will taste good now with rich foods, but and this 54% Syrah, 27% Petite Sirah, 16% Gr- new leather flavors. It’s attractively oaky, full-bod- could easily improve with aging through 2017. It is enache, and 3% Viognier blend is appealing, with ied and firm in tannins. Robust but well behaved, deeply colored, full bodied and a bit sandy in tex- black cherry aromas lingering amidst rose petals this will be great with rich steaks, chops and stews. ture, yet that grip seems O.K. in this wine, balanced and mint. Blackberry juice wins the palate, with a It incorporates 10% and 7% Graciano. Edi- by the ripe fruit flavors.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. touch of black licorice and ample yet easygoing tan- tors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 nins. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 13.9% Price: $18

Novy 2012 Four Mile Creek Red Wine (North Matchbook 2010 Tinto Rey (California). This 89 Coast). The deep, dark color is hard to miss Sierra Starr 2013 Solstice Sauvignon Blanc 89 blend of Tempranillo, Syrah and other va- before you even taste the rich blackberry jam flavors 89 (Nevada County). Very tasty and fresh, this rieties is medium to full bodied, nicely tannic and and feel the firmly layered tannins. It is certainly well-balanced wine combines tart citrus aromas firm in texture. Bold in flavor, it tastes complete and an unusual red blend—51% Zinfandel, 43% Syrah with rich lime peel and melon flavors. Mostly fer- well crafted without being too showy. The balance and 6% Grenache—that’s swinging for a home run. mented in tank, 15% was barrel fermented, which is dry and the flavors resemble cranberry and ripe A good find for fans of the big and bold. —J.G. would account for the smoothness and roundness cherry. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $15 in texture. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $16

Pedroncelli 2012 Mother Clone Zinfandel Michael David 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- 89 (Dry Creek Valley). Blended with 8% Petite Trimbach 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Up- 89 fornia). A zesty, citric crispness balances Sirah and then aged almost a year in American oak, 89 holding the Trimbach reputation for mak- with a soothing element of soft apple character. Fer- 30% of it new, this is fruity and smoky in equal ing classically styled wines, this is a crisp, fresh mented in stainless steel, it has a smooth texture measure. Its tones of blackberry, leather and black Pinot Blanc. It has a light touch of spice, although and ripe fruit flavors. Balanced and approachable; pepper are harmonious. Round and soft, it’s easy to the wine is really dominated by tight green apples drink now. —J.G. drink and will be approachable to a variety of pal- and fragrant acidity. It is ready to drink now. Esprit abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ates. —V.B. du Vin. —R.V. abv: 14.8% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $20

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 St. Supéry 2013 Estate Grown Moscato Vina Robles 2013 Huerhuero Albariño (Paso Herdade Paço do Conde 2012 Vinho Tinto 88 (Napa Valley). Sweet aromas of white peach 89 Robles). Yellow summer melon and green 88 (Alentejano). This is a rich and dense wine, entice one into this lively wine, a profile that carries apple make for a crisp, clean, bright and beautiful full of dusty tannins and ripe, generous black plum through to the delicate palate. A refreshing apéri- nose. The palate is peachy, with a citrus and cinna- and berry fruits. It’s spicy and juicy, with an herbal tif that finishes dry, the wine is light in alcohol and mon-apple flavored finish, walking the fine, fun line overtone and a warm, full-bodied character. The body. —V.B. between brisk austerity and fruity richness. —M.K. wine could do with some aging, so drink from 2016. abv: 11% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $18

Noble Vines 2012 1 Red Blend (California). 87 It’s easy to like the breadth and depth of ripe Bread & Butter 2012 Chardonnay (Califor- fruit flavor in this full-bodied wine. It tastes like 88 nia). A hearty bottle of Chardonnay with Oveja Negra 2011 Single Vineyard Carmenère cherries and dark plums, feels smooth but nicely the simplest label you could imagine, it emphasizes 88 (Maule Valley). Ripe black-fruit aromas are tannic and has a lingering finish of baking spices. earthy, oaky, buttery flavors over fruit components. dark and slightly herbal on the nose. The wine has Big enough for your heftiest dishes. —J.G. This is medium-bodied, dry, rich in texture and a lively palate courtesy of a bolt of acidity, while abv: 14% Price: $15 moderately tannic. —J.G. toasty flavors of berry, olive and carob are slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $18 warming, with residual spice notes driving a toasty BEST BUYS finish. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

Dewitt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Columbia Crest 2012 H3 Les Chevaux Red 88 Valley). This is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Blend (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of 60% and 10% Merlot, aged in American oak, half of it Rodney Strong 2013 Charlotte’s Home Sau- Syrah, 27% Merlot and a handful of other varieties new. Inviting in spicy pepper and violet perfume, 88 vignon Blanc (Northern Sonoma). A stun- added to the mix, this aromatically pops, with com- the medium body is awash in black cherry and ber- ning squeeze of fresh tangerine enlivens both the plex notes of plum, blueberry, smoke, chocolate and ry, with a layer of subtle smoke popping in along the aroma and palate of this crisp wine that’s high in floral accents. It’s silky smooth in feel, with abun- long finish. —V.B. acidity and dancing in refreshing tangents of lem- dant chocolaty flavors that help it go down far too abv: 14.5% Price: $39 ongrass, kiwi and pineapple. Enjoy poolside or on easy. Best Buy. —S.S. a patio. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $17

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BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Murphy-Goode 2013 The Fumé Sauvignon 91 Blanc (North Coast). Crisp citrus aromas and fresh lemon and grapefruit flavors define this Cave Spring 2012 VQA Riesling (Niagara Diren 2012 Collection Öküzgözü (Turkey). medium-bodied,­ appetizing and unapologetic wine. 90 Peninsula). This is an aromatic dazzler, 89 Ruby-violet in color, this wine has aromas With lots of personality, a tingly texture and tangy with notes of herb, apricot, orange peel and dried of cherry, cola and almond blossom. Smooth and finish, it’s just the thing for appetizers and first flowers. It drinks off dry, with rich, mineral stone- bright on the palate, with soft tannins, shades of courses. Best Buy. —J.G. fruit flavors and balanced acidity. Pair with curried cherry, menthol and smoked meat bring nuance to abv: 13.5% Price: $14 shrimp. MGZ Associates. Best Buy. —S.S. the finish. Vinorai, LLC.Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.3% Price: $14

Quinta do Portal 2011 Mural Reserva Red Wine 91 (Douro). The Reserva version of Mural makes a powerful statement. Dark in color and packed with concentrated fruit, it is full of tannins as well as brooding black-plum flavors. Spice and juicy Frost Bitten 2013 Ice Riesling (Yakima Val- Black Box 2012 Platinum Cabernet Sau- acidity complete the ensemble. It’s a solid wine that 90 ley). Made cryogenically, this sweet late 88 vignon (Central Coast). Cherry, pepper, needs to age to soften the tannic structure. Drink harvest-style wine—which clocks in at 165 g/L re- grilled meat, mint and smoke make for a great bou- from 2017. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. sidual sugar—delivers a lot of decadent flavor. Hon- quet, and the palate rewards as well, with plum jam abv: 14% Price: $12 ey and tea—unctuous and peachy—coat the tongue and roast beef notes. There are tannins and vibrant while remaining on the right side of cloying. Streaks acidity, too, washing the palate clean after each sip. of vanilla and butter cookie come into play as well. Best Buy. —M.K. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $30/3 L abv: 10.2% Price: $13/375 ml

Sula 2012 Estate Bottled Shiraz (Nashik). Count Károlyi 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Pan- 91 Aromas of blackberry, cherry preserves, white Kiona 2012 Estate Bottled Lemberger (Red 88 non). Aromas of lemon curd and lemon pith chocolate and a hint of green pepper prepare the 90 Mountain). Lemberger was planted here are bright on the nose. The wine has a nice level of taste buds for flavors of forest-fruit, smoked pork, in the 1970s, and Kiona still carries the torch for minerality on the palate, with flavors of green apple black pepper, violet and almond blossom. A trio of the grape. Earthy, gamy, soft and smooth, it has a and fresh picked apricot that lead into a dry, zesty fruit, savory tones and spice travels across the palate quickly maturing flavor set, built upon chocolate finish. Quintessential Wines.Best Buy. —J.J. on a layer of smooth tannins, leading to a smoky fin- and cherries, with dusty tannins. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 ish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 BEST BUYS Comartin 2011 Tierra Alta Vineyard Syrah nins, good acidity and full flavors, and everything 92 (Santa Ynez Valley). Jet-black aromatics of sails through the finish. Best after 2018. —J.G. creosote, charred meats, pepper and plum-black- abv: 14.6% Price: $30 berry jam make an excellent entry point for this wine from a vineyard in the new Ballard Canyon Michael David 2012 6th Sense Syrah (Lodi). appellation. Blackberry sauce leads the palate, with 91 For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. espresso bitterness and strong acidity throughout. abv: 15% Price: $16 A powerful but beautiful Syrah. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Red Car 2010 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). The 91 winery’s larger-scale Syrah (and that’s still Sanguis 2011 Bossman Syrah (Central under 2,000 cases), this is a friendly, sophisticated 92 Coast). Quirky, art-minded winemaker Rhône-inspired wine grown on the cooler Sonoma Matthias Sanguis crafts a stellar Syrah, with a lush Coast. Red and blue fruits are expertly ripe and bouquets of violets, blue raspberry, black pepper- high-toned, accented by layers of classic cool-cli- corns and vanilla. The palate, bound together with a mate spice. —V.B. lean acidic line down the middle, presents dark but abv: 13.7% Price: $35 tart cherries, sweet tobacco and the tang of plum Black Box 2013 Platinum Chardonnay (Cen- peel. —M.K. Transcendence 2012 Harrison-Clarke Vine- 86 tral Coast). A strong showing for wine that abv: 15.1% Price: $75 91 yard Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Deep and rich comes in a box, this begins with aromas of nectarine aromas of blackberry syrup and wet slate kick off and peach before delivering stone fruit flavors on Vie Winery 2011 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah this excellent, approachable representation of Santa the palate as well. A touch of bitter tension on the 92 (Santa Barbara County). Scents of efferves- Barbara County’s new Ballard Canyon appellation. end makes for a solid value wine, great for camping cent cherry and mint run with emergent licorice It’s both juicy and tannic once sipped, tasty with and parties. Best Buy. —M.K. and slate on this ewine that proves lithe yet fla- blackberry and slight cherry juice. Balanced with abv: 13.5% Price: $30/3 L vorful on the palate. Lovely blackberry flavors and medium-range force, it provides evidence of how black pepper make for a very balanced bottling that the region evens out Syrah’s rougher edges. —M.K. doesn’t rely on bombastic power to tell the Syrah abv: 14.5% Price: $38 story. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 Carica 2010 Kick Ranch Siren (Sonoma CORRECTION 90 County). Black olive dominates on the nose Zaca Mesa 2011 Mesa Reserve Estate Grown in this blend of 75% Syrah, 12.5% Grenache and On page 206 of the November 2014 issue, we incorrectly and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). For 12.5% Mourvèdre, all from Kick Ranch. Lively red mentioned the full text of the spirit review below was in- 92 full review see page 7. fruit is amplified by soft, medium-bodied tannins cluded on page 15. The correct page was 125. The complete abv: 14.5% Price: $48 and a well-composed finish, with just enough earth listing is as follows: and spice to go around. —V.B. Caliza 2011 Syrah (Paso Robles). Preserved abv: 14.5% Price: $32 91 cherries, cedar and smoke aromas lead the nose on this wine from the exciting Caliza team. Epiphany 2011 Hampton Vineyard Syrah The well-rounded flavors combine blackberry and 90 (Santa Barbara County). Charred beef tips, cherry with tar and charred meats, and the strong grilled whole fish, wet dirt and heavy tar combine tannins should calm down by 2016 and make for an for a pungent, serious nose on this Syrah from a even more delicious wine. —M.K. vineyard planted by Central Coast pioneer Dale abv: 15.5% Price: $54 Hampton. It’s elegant and soft on the palate, open- ing up with boysenberry and sage, and possesses Fess Parker 2011 Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah ample tannins for aging. Hang on until 2018. Cellar 91 (Santa Barbara County). For full review see Selection. —M.K. page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $49 Ferguson Crest 2011 Private Reserve Syrah Klinker Brick Winery 2012 Farrah Syrah (Lodi). 90 (Santa Ynez Valley). Fergie of the Black 91 Rich and meaty enough to sink your teeth Eyed Peas produces this label with her father and Prairie Wolf Spirits DARK (USA; Prairie Wolf into, this dark and deep Syrah has toasty, smoky winemaker Joey Tensley, whose handiwork un- 93 Spirits, Oklahoma City, OK). This velvety, aromas. Generous blackberry and boysenberry fla- leashes aromas of white pepper, black cherry, a nut-brown craft coffee is reminiscent of vors that are full but not sweet accompany a velvety cornucopia of dark berries and earthy minerality. sweetened coffee dosed with dried orange peel and texture. This is tasty now, but has the layered tan- Bright acidity on the palate partners with black- maple. Made with Kona coffee beans roasted in nins and acidity for aging. Best now through 2019. berry soda flavors, quite racy for the variety. —M.K. Oklahoma, plus vanilla, molasses and cane sugar, Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $35 it has a rounded, almost Bourbon-like alcohol feel abv: 14.9% Price: $20 that cuts through the sweetness for a balanced sip. Red Car 2010 Cuvee 22 Syrah (Sonoma Best Buy. Martin Lane Winery 2010 Estate Syrah (Sierra 90 County). Earthy and reminiscent of a rainy abv: 20% Price: $22 91 Foothills). Still tight and young, this tastes forest floor, this coastal Syrah is smoothly textured like a keeper that will improve with time. Aged in all and round with a grip on the back palate, the fruit new American barrels, it shows aromas of corian- juicy and red, high-toned all around. An approach- der, cumin and smoke, with flavors like black cherry and black pepper. It balances well between firm tan-

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able Syrah with complexity to spare, it fits expertly plex blend, perfumed in violet and vanilla. Leathery toned and vibrant through the midpalate, before on the table, duck confit on hand. —V.B. and fruity in equal measure, it features prominent dropping off a touch on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $50 raspberries, while the finish offers a shake or two of abv: 14.2% Price: $30 cinnamon. —V.B. Summerland 2012 Paradise Road Vineyard abv: 13.6% Price: $37 Daniel Gehrs 2012 Limited Selection Syrah 90 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Blueberry, sage 85 (Central Coast). A brown sugar element, and vanilla swirl into an admirable nose on this Epiphany 2011 Paradise Road Vineyard Syrah reminiscent of mincemeat pie, leads the nose on wine from a property far up the Santa Ynez River 88 (Santa Barbara County). This begins with this wine, with a bit of Dr Pepper playing backup. valley. There is distinct tar on the palate, like other aromas of herb-crusted, charred pork belly, graphite The flavors are lean and easy, with roasted fennel wines from the property, with smashed black cherry and shaved wood. A touch of black fruit lingers in and some elderberry fruit. —M.K. fruit and tobacco herbaceousness present as well. the background of the palate, but the stars are black abv: 13.5% Price: $24 —M.K. pepper, licorice, hard herbs, black soot, asphalt and abv: 14.1% Price: $40 very grippy tannins. Wait at least until 2016 for Naggiar 2011 Estate Syrah (Sierra Foothills). some mellowing. —M.K. 85 With moderate fruit flavors, nicely dry tan- Comartin 2011 The Porterhouse Syrah-Gr- abv: 14.9% Price: $35 nins and firm acidity, this offers a big structure that 89 enache (Central Coast). This 90% Syrah pairs well with rich meat and cheese dishes. —J.G. and 10% Grenache blend, named as an ode to the Rock Wren 2010 Syrah (Solano County). In- abv: 14.4% Price: $23 winemaker’s butcher-ancestors, begins with scents 88 tense tannins and full body make this Syrah of blueberry crème brûlée with a spearmint glaze. difficult to savor at this point, but it may round out Wellington 2009 Estate Vineyard Syrah The flavors are comparably light, with tarter blue- with aging. It smells like smoke and black pepper, 84 (Sonoma Valley). There’s a preponderance berry, some licorice on the midpalate and a tannic and tastes like grilled beef and blackberries. It is of ripeness in this wine, the fruit tasting of baked finish. —M.K. firm and astringent in texture, tight and concen- blackberry and tar. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 trated in flavor. Best after 2018. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 14.6% Price: $25 Cooper-Garrod 2010 Finley Vineyard Estate 89 Syrah (Santa Cruz Mountains). The pretty Sierra Starr 2011 Monarch Mine Syrah (Sierra GRENACHE but powerful nose is like striking a gusher of black 88 Foothills). Tasty and dry, this offers typical gold in a field of lavender, full of tar, violet and smoky, black peppery aromas, dark fruit flavors and Foxen 2012 Cuvee Jeanne Marie Williamson- blueberry. Leather and deep purple fruit lead the medium body. It comes off as elegant rather than 92 Dore Vineyard (Santa Ynez Valley). An aro- palate, with charred meat savoriness, black pepper big, due to the smooth texture, slightly subtle fla- matic profile of crushed mint, hot gravel and red spice and plum skin tannins making a good case for vors and silky texture. —J.G. fruit introduces this blend of 83% Grenache and this seven-acre vineyard that was planted in 1998. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 17% Mourvèdre. It’s lightweight on the palate, but —M.K. with complex flavors of herb and spice that swirl abv: 14.1% Price: $29 Still Waters 2009 Syrah (Paso Robles). around a core of blackberry fruit and finish with 88 Powerful and pleasant cinnamon aromas mouthwatering acidity. —M.K. Deep Sea 2011 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah dominate the somewhat one-dimensional nose— abv: 14.2% Price: $40 89 (Santa Barbara County). Amidst cola and from Red Hot candies to peppermint stick. The pal- sassafras on the nose, there’s a bit of rotting cherry ate expands to cola, blackberry pie and black pep- Core Winery 2010 Elevation Sensation (Paso funk and some compost pile aromas to this intrigu- per, with decent grip. —M.K. 91 Robles). Dave Corey co-fermented 83% Gr- ing single-vineyard Syrah from the Los Alamos area. abv: 14.2% Price: $32 enache with 17% Syrah to produce this rich wine, The little bit of cherry sweetness on the palate gets which offers nose-tingling aromas of blackberry more serious with chopped herbs, tobacco and ce- V. Sattui 2011 Syrah (Napa Valley). This . It’s soft once sipped, but also a bit brutal, dar. —M.K. 88 wine also contains small percentages of Pe- with blood and barrel-age prominent alongside fla- abv: 13.7% Price: $38 tite Sirah and Grenache to good effect, providing a vors of blackberry-peppercorn cake. Serve as des- soft and approachable entry of well-balanced black sert. —M.K. Morgan 2012 G17 Syrah (Monterey). This fruit and leather. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $35 89 fresh, fruit-driven wine opens with aromas abv: 14.4% Price: $35 of black pepper, blackberry and violet. It’s not overly Core Winery 2008 Elevation Sensation Alta complex but very tasty and bright, with berry juice, Cedar View Winery 2011 Madera Syrah (Made- 91 Mesa Vineyard Rhône-style Red Blend (Santa cola, sassafras and a pinch of spearmint. —M.K. 87 ra). Full body, plenty of tannin and subdued Barbara County). A bit lighter in color than many abv: 14.3% Price: $22 fruit flavors make this a tight, savory rather than of Dave Corey’s other inky bombs, this offers sweet fruity Syrah. It is definitely a food wine, with all the cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg on the nose, with pipe Davis Family 2011 Soul Patch Estate Grown appetizing counterpoints for indulgent steaks, ribs tobacco emerging into the palate as well. It veers 88 Syrah (Russian River Valley). Medium- or roasts. —J.G. toward , brandy and espresso liqueur once bodied, soft and juicy in red berry fruit, this comes abv: 13.5% Price: $21 sipped. All ripeness, spice and barrel-age. —M.K. from the heart of the Russian River Valley. Not en- abv: 15.2% Price: $35 tirely cool-climate but not overly warm, either, it Taj 2008 Syrah (Los Carneros). Medium- provides a balanced take on the grape that’ll stand 86 bodied, spicy and peppery, this offers dark Quivira 2012 Wine Creek Ranch Grenache (Dry up to hearty meals of coq au vin or cassoulet. —V.B. plum and earthy leather, the fruit tasting quite ripe. 91 Creek Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.1% Price: $42 —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $32 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Elyse 2009 Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard Gr- R2 2012 Camp 4 Vineyard Grenache (Santa 88 enache-Syrah (Los Carneros). The winery’s Taj 2008 Syrah (Sonoma Valley). Fresh 91 Ynez Valley). Sonoma’s Roessler brothers ode to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Hudson Vineyard pro- 86 blackberry bramble flirts with the aromas deliver a great Grenache, with cinnamon spice, rose vides 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah for this com- and flavors of a baked cobbler. The acidity is high- petals, squeezed strawberries and pie crust on the

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 nose. Bright acidity shines on the palate, with red color, it still has richness in the texture and rather mon and clove. Built to age 2020–2022, it’ll sat- berries and strawberry spritzer flavors. Good ten- full body. —J.G. isfy in complex black tea and savory toasty oak, an sion between tannins and bitterness leads to a abv: 14.2% Price: $18 easy wine to love. The grapes are sourced from the mouthwatering finish. —M.K. winery’s estate sites within the Oak Knoll District, abv: 14.2% Price: $34 where it’s based. —V.B. ZINFANDEL abv: 15.8% Price: $45 Ampelos 2010 Delta The Difference Gre- 90 nache (Sta. Rita Hills). The vineyard for this Robert Biale 2012 Varozza Vineyard Zin- Summerwood 2011 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). 100% Grenache is certified sustainable, organic 94 fandel (St. Helena). Varozza is planted to 92 A smoky oak fire meets cooked meats and and Biodynamic. Bright and light in strawberry and 50-year-old Zin vines, an unexpected patch of re- plum sauce on the nose of this wine, which retains mint, the wine has a strong herbal component in- fined goodness in the middle of valley floor land great balance even at 16% alcohol. The mouthfeel is tertwined with tartness and tingling acidity. —V.B. near the Napa River in St. Helena. It expresses luxurious, complementing the cherry, red currant, abv: 14.1% Price: $35 waves of complexity and spicy red berry fruit, the licorice and black pepper flavors, wrapped around different components of which evolve in the glass orange peel bitterness and well-integrated oak. Tuck Beckstoffer 2012 Melée Grenache and should evolve even more in the bottle. Editors’ —M.K. 90 (California). Big flavors and full body make Choice. —V.B. abv: 16% Price: $35 this deep-colored Grenache stand out. It combines abv: 15.1% Price: $50 aromas of ripe raspberry and boysenberry jam with Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel hints of tobacco and cedar in the flavors. All are Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Mo- 91 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page 7. supported by a firm, tannic texture that is rounded 93 relli Lane Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Editors’ Choice. out by a sensation of richness. —J.G. Smoky in dark clove and black pepper, this is a abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.6% Price: $34 smooth, bright Zinfandel from head-trained, dry- farmed vines planted in the 19th century. After Quivira 2012 Flight Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard 2012 McDow- skipping the 2011 vintage, the winery returns with 91 ley). The grapes are Demeter-certified Bio- 89 ell Valley Vineyard Grenache (Mendocino). this stunner, brambly in succulent blackberry with dynamic in this 100% Zin, grown on a ridge-top Dry and rather light-bodied, this has an authentic plenty of intriguing spice. —V.B. vineyard overlooking the Dry Creek Valley. A fully light color and an intriguing mix of flavors: a hint abv: 14.5% Price: $45 realized, satisfying wine, it offers cherry vanilla, tar of rosemary, tasty raspberry and dried cherry. Lip- and toasty bacon among warm tones of complemen- smacking tannins and good acidity give texture and Robert Biale 2012 Rocky Ridge Vineyard Zin- tary spicy cinnamon. —V.B. balance. Grapes come from 100-year-old vines. 93 fandel (Rockpile). There is earthy darkness abv: 14.7% Price: $38 —J.G. and a hint of the forest in this Zin, grown at high abv: 12.8% Price: $18 elevation in the rocky soils of the Rockpile appella- Robert Biale 2012 Founding Farmers Zinfan- tion, these vines planted in 2001. The wine is mag- 91 del (Napa Valley). Made from a mix of vine- Calavera 2012 Dalton Vineyard Grenache nificently structured with complex, ripe blackberry yards across the Napa Valley, this pays tribute to 88 (Calaveras County). Good, solid fruit flavors and cherry compote coming to the fore slowly and the early days of grape growing in the region and fill out this light-colored but full-bodied Grenache. seductively. Cellar Selection. —V.B. is a wine equally worthy of recognition. Exhibiting It has ripe plum, tart cherry and cedar nuances; a abv: 15.8% Price: $50 dark cherry stone and wild strawberry aromas, the broad, firm texture helps flavors linger on the fin- palate is complex, tannic and round, a subtle sug- ish. It’s the kind of wine that tastes better with each Robert Biale 2012 Stagecoach Vineyards The gestion of smoke on the finish balanced by bright sip. —J.G. 93 Biale Block Zinfandel (Napa Valley). The acidity. —V.B. abv: NA Price: $28 winery’s proprietary block of Zin grapes (planted abv: 15.8% Price: $35 in 1999) from the coveted Stagecoach Vineyards Core Winery 2008 Santa Barbara Highlands contributes to an intense wine. Juicy and oaky, it’s Robert Biale 2012 Old Kraft Vineyard Zinfan- 88 Reserve Grenache (Santa Barbara County). dense in cherry and plum, a note of lavender and 91 del (St. Helena). Soft, subdued, savory and The berry liqueur aromas common to Core Wine’s sage complementing the whole. A thick liqueur subtle, Old Kraft dates back originally to the 1860s, extended barrel-aging program emerge even on this sense characterizes the texture, but the palate stays much of its plantings traceable to the 1890s. Zinfan- Grenache. The flavors are more varietally on-point, alive through the site’s rocky minerality. This one’ll del and Petite Sirah populate the gorgeous pocket of with raspberry fruit leather, chocolate-covered age. Cellar Selection. —V.B. a site, a stone’s throw from Spottswoode. Blackber- cherries and a still-strong acidity. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $50 ries and raspberries figure prominently, alongside abv: 15.2% Price: $29 intrigues of cinnamon and clove, a forested note not Robert Biale 2012 Bedrock Vineyard Zinfan- far behind. —V.B. Helwig 2013 Frenchmen’s Creek Grenache 92 del (Sonoma Valley). A brand new vineyard abv: 15.8% Price: $50 88 (Shenandoah Valley). This medium-bod- designation for the winery, Bedrock dates to the ied Grenache has plenty of personality. There is a 1800s and is being made famous by proprietor Joel Bartholomew Park 2011 Estate Vineyard Zin- smoky, meaty character in the aroma, and the herb, Peterson of Ravenswood and his son, Morgan Twain 90 fandel (Sonoma Valley). Made from head- rhubarb and black pepper flavors add interest. It Peterson. This wine does the site justice, a smooth trained vines planted where California winemaking is balanced to the dry, tannic side, which makes it concoction of cherry pit and allspice, elegant and pioneer Agoston Haraszthy first grew the variety more appetizing and authentic. —J.G. yet plenty generous in fruit and structure, measured 150 years ago, this lush wine offers intense aromat- abv: 13.8% Price: $22 by natural acidity. —V.B. ics of tar, brick and smoke, with briary blackberry abv: 15.8% Price: $50 secondary on the nose. The finish is topped by fla- People’s Wine Revolution 2012 The People’s vors of cocoa and a sprinkling of black pepper. —V.B. 85 Grenache (Clements Hills). With earthy- Robert Biale 2012 Black Chicken Zinfandel abv: 14.8% Price: $45 piney aromas and light raspberry flavors, this will 92 (Napa Valley). Spicy in black plum and ber- make a versatile drink with food. Though light in ry fruit, Black Chicken is a consistent blockbuster Brown Estate 2012 Zinfandel (Chiles Val- for Biale, alive and fresh in waves of exotic cinna- 90 ley). A zippy sense of freshness character-

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izes this wine that’s otherwise soft and bright in red Sirah and 1% Carignane, this is soft in raspberry raspberry and plum fruit. Subtle and understated layers and earthy in pastoral ways. The finish ex- SANGIOVESE black pepper builds up on the finish and stays on hibits the Petite’s tendency toward tannic muscle. the palate a long time, just the slightest suggestion —V.B. Pianetta 2011 Sangiovese (Paso Robles). Dis- of savory herb peeking through. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $30 91 tinct and delicious aromas of crème brûlée abv: 15.2% Price: $50 with a strawberry glaze pick up some licorice and Eight Sides 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). dark spice when digging deeper. The cranberry Brown Estate 2012 Rosemary’s Block Zinfan- 86 Cherry juice, wet clay, nutmeg and chamise fruit’s tartness, tannins, and acidity make for a 90 del (Napa Valley). Full-bodied and lush on make for an intriguing nose on this well-priced Zin- mouth-rinsing wine. Serve with hearty pasta or rich the palate, this exuberant wine offers a brightness fandel. The easy-drinking palate leans toward fruit meats. —M.K. of red raspberry fruit followed by acres of lively punch, making for good summer drinking at a bar- abv: 14.3% Price: $29 clove and ginger spice. High in acidity, it has years becue or the beach. —M.K. to go before it sleeps, the finish savory in leather. abv: 13.6% Price: $19 Noceto 2010 Riserva Sangiovese (Shenan- —V.B. 90 doah Valley). This is a wine with nerve, abv: 15.2% Price: $55 Wines Gone Wild 2012 Zinfandel (Sonoma opening with notes of mineral and pine. It tastes 86 Valley). This soft Zinfandel offers fruity true to its Tuscan roots, thanks to a tart red-cherry Miro 2012 Piccetti Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry blackberry notes and pings of cinnamon spice, mak- flavor. Far from being a fruit bomb, it’s all about 90 Creek Valley). For full review see page 10. ing it an easygoing wine that’s ripe and round. The structure and complexity, with medium tannins and abv: 14.5% Price: $26 colorful label carries original artwork of one of the enervating acidity. —J.G. winery owners. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Portalupi 2012 Old Vine Dolinsek Ranch Zin- abv: 15% Price: $45 90 fandel (Russian River Valley). Lush in bram- Turchi 2010 Hallauer Vineyard Sangiovese bly blackberry, this classic Zinfandel comes from a Portalupi 2012 Zinfandel (Russian River Val- 89 (Santa Ynez Valley). Maduro cigar and cher- cooler area than usual, the Russian River Valley, 85 ley). A curious streak of sarsaparilla marks ry brandy aromas power the nose on this heavily ex- which manages to retain small plantings of the vari- this wine aromatically, followed by sparse, soft lay- tracted, single-vineyard Sangiovese that Dave Corey ety amid the larger seas of and Chardon- ers of black fruit and hidden black pepper. —V.B. makes under his Turchi label. Nothing like Chianti, nay. Spicy, the wine is balanced and fairly elegant, abv: 13.6% Price: $34 aside from the decent tannins and acidity, this is medium in body and weight while still packing a all prune and plum soda on the palate. Serve with punch. —V.B. herb-crusted steak. —M.K. abv: 15.8% Price: $48 TEMPRANILLO abv: 14.9% Price: $29

Girard 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (Napa Val- Hovey 2012 Rolleri Cuvée Tempranillo (Calav- Field Stone 2012 Lucio’s Block Sangiovese 89 ley). An 85% Zinfandel with smaller 91 eras County). For full review see page 8. 88 (Alexander Valley). This is a juicy Sangio- amounts of Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre and Syrah, this abv: 14.8% Price: $26 vese, rustic and savory in cherry and plum with soft red offers sanguine, rustic plum, cinnamon spice tannins and an underbelly of garden herbs. Easy to and a concentration of bright red fruit, a lingering Core Winery 2008 Reserve Tempranillo quaff, it’s an ideal pizza wine. —V.B. grip on the finish. —V.B. 90 (Santa Barbara). Leather, smashed berries abv: 14.1% Price: $27 abv: 15% Price: $24 and juniper reveal the age of this wine, further en- hanced with a meaty mouthfeel, redolent with fla- Noceto 2011 Sangiovese (Amador County). Pedroncelli 2012 Mother Clone Zinfandel vors of blueberry and purple fruits. Charred vanilla 86 Dry, restrained and a bit mouthpuckering 89 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page touches on the finish. —M.K. with tannins and acidity, this needs to pair with an- 12. abv: 14.9% Price: $28 tipasti like Italian salumi. Its lean texture and tart abv: 14.8% Price: $17 cherry and cranberry flavors do make it appetizing Matchbook 2010 Tempranillo (Dunnigan and help it stand out from the crowd of simply ripe Ballentine 2012 Old Vines Zinfandel (Napa 89 Hills). For full review see page 12. Editors’ California reds. —J.G. 88 Valley). With brawny tannins and a taste of Choice. abv: 13% Price: $18 tar and oak, this wine is predominantly about dark, abv: 13.9% Price: $15 black fruit, the spicy finish measured and comple- mentary to the rest of the components. It’s a classic Uphill Vineyards 2010 Tempranillo (Amador CABERNET SAUVIGNON barbecue wine. —V.B. 88 County). It’s a big wine in terms of an inky abv: 15.5% Price: $25 color and very firm tannins but it does not come Black Stallion 2010 Transcendent Cabernet across as overly full-bodied, and the alcohol level 95 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 Heritage Vines Zin- is moderate. Enough blackberry flavor and acidity page 3. 88 fandel (Sonoma County). This approach- come through to keep it balanced just this side of abv: 14.5% Price: $135 able Zinfandel comes from a modern-day vineyard extreme. This should improve through 2018. —J.G. planted with cuttings from pre-Prohibition-era abv: 13.3% Price: $26 Calla Lily 2011 Ultimate Red Cabernet Sau- vines and exhibits the complexity these heritage 94 vignon (Napa Valley). The first vintage for grapes can offer. Smoky and exuberant in cherry Vino Vargas 2012 Toro Tinto (Clements a new producer, the winemaker longtime respected and blackberry fruit, the wine has soft tannins and 86 Hills). A cocoa-like aroma, rich mouthfeel consultant Cary Gott, this 100% Cab comes from a rounded feel to the palate, its long finish smooth and velvety tannins add up to a fun taste experience the eastern slopes of Howell Mountain and Pope and meaty. —V.B. with this medium-bodied Tempranillo from a sub- Valley. It provides an elegant and yet sizable expres- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 district of Lodi. The flavors are plummy, chocolaty, sion of juicy black fruit, olive, licorice and smoke oaky and spicy. —J.G. that spent 25 months in French oak, almost 75% Frog’s Leap 2012 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). A abv: 14% Price: $29 87 lighter style of Zinfandel, with 23% Petite

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 of it new. This one’s built to age, too. Cellar Selec- tains). Lightly toasted tobacco, blueberry pie and Diamond Creek 2011 Gravelly Meadow Caber- tion. —V.B. cedar scents lead the way on this single-vineyard 91 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Cab. Fresh blueberry on the palate combines with a see page 7. Cellar Selection. great arc of flavors that ends in a chewed cigar fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $200 Continuum 2011 Red (Napa Valley). For full ish. —M.K. 94 review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.6% Price: $33 Gibbs 2010 Obsidian Block Reserve Cabernet abv: 14.7% Price: $175 91 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Attractively priced, Hess Collection 2011 Small Block Reserve this Cab supported by 5% Petit Verdot offers meaty Diamond Creek 2011 Volcanic Hill Cabernet 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full bacon and smoky oak character around sizable tan- 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see review see page 6. nins, black currant, black licorice and a finishing page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $100 dust of mocha. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $200 abv: 14.7% Price: $36 Prim Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Janzen 2011 Cloudy’s Vineyard Cabernet 92 (Howell Mountain). For full review see page Greyscale 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 94 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see 6. Cellar Selection. 91 Valley). Kian Tavakoli is the winemaker for page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 this small-production Cabernet Sauvignon with abv: 14.9% Price: $100 some Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Sol Rouge 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa A brambly, full-bodied wine, it’s concentrated in Piña 2011 Ames Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- 92 Valley). From winemaker Bryan Kane, who black fruit with a spicy streak of clove. —V.B. 94 gnon (Oakville). From a vineyard on the also makes the Howell Mountain Vineyards’ wines, abv: 14.3% Price: $54 eastern side of the Silverado Trail in Oakville, this comes this tiny-production Cabernet Sauvignon is rich and robust with a depth of dark berry flavor, from two separate Howell Mountain sources. A de- Midsummer Cellars 2011 Haystack Peak tobacco and earth. Lush on the palate it’s a special- light in black plum, licorice and peppery leather, it’s 91 Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). occasion kind of wine, gorgeous and generous and a soft and complex. Boysenberry highlights the fruit Smoky and meaty this medium-bodied Cab from fine example of winemaking and coming components, while the finish is deftly marked by rocky Atlas Peak offers sensible acidity wrapped together in a magical way. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. wild vanilla. —V.B. around spicy, dusty tannins and a savory aftertaste abv: 14.8% Price: $85 abv: 14.4% Price: $75 of tobacco. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $40 Diamond Creek 2011 Red Rock Terrace Caber- VinRoc 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas 93 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review 92 Peak). From a single-vineyard, estate- Mount Eden 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- see page 4. Cellar Selection. grown and bottled, this is an intense 100% Cab- 91 gnon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Slightly funky abv: 13.5% Price: $200 ernet, generous in roasted plum, cedar and coffee. scents of asphalt and sweaty socks come along with With supple tannins it’s easy to enjoy, concentrated graphite, pressed blackberry and New Mexico chile. Janzen 2011 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper and dark, a good match for roasted meats and savory The palate is led by tobacco-laced zing, opening 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Cassis pies. —V.B. with boysenberry flavors, and finishing with decent liqueur marks this structured Cab divine in firm, abv: 14.5% Price: $98 acidity and mouth-coating tannins. —M.K. lengthy tannins and a chewy grip of black licorice. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Given similar treatment to the winery’s other high- Black Stallion 2010 Limited Release Cabernet est echelon Cabs, it has 22 months in new French 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see Paratus 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount oak that will help it age through 2020–2030. Cellar page 7. 91 Veeder). From an estate vineyard high atop Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Mount Veeder, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is abv: 15.2% Price: $100 dark and inky, concentrated in color and flavor, a Brander 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon brambly intensity at the center of it all. Peppercorns Janzen 2011 Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet 91 (Santa Ynez Valley). An evenly dispersed and clove accent its larger smoky, espresso side, the 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A worthy ambas- nose of sage bark, cherry compote and lightly toast- body full and velvety. —V.B. sador of Beckstoffer To Kalon grapes, this finely ed cedar introduces this bottling by Fred Brander, a abv: 14.5% Price: $70 crafted Cab is lively in red fruit and tightly woven Santa Ynez Valley winemaking pioneer now actively tannins, the cinnamon and clove seasoned just trying to create a new Los Olivos District appella- Piña 2011 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- right. Having spent just about two years in new tion. The flavors are balanced between cherry fruit 91 gnon (Rutherford). Winemaker Anna Mon- French oak the imprint is subtle, adding structure and oak, with smooth tannins throughout. —M.K. ticelli spent a harvest at Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux and an exotic, tropical air. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 and worked under Philippe Melka at Seavey and abv: 15.1% Price: $175 Bryant Family. She leaves her own mark on this Clos du Val 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags structured, silky, robust and rich Cabernet, bright San Simeon 2010 Estate Reserve Cabernet 91 Leap District). From 100% estate-grown in red cranberry and clove. Firehouse Vineyard is 93 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grown in the heart on the winery estate and given to floral and herb- page 5. Editors’ Choice. of the Stags Leap District, this earthy red offers al notes, both of which suggest themselves slowly abv: 14.5% Price: $25 black tea and coffee aromas and flavors, suggestions here. Cellar Selection. —V.B. of wild sage and black pepper enveloping the nose. abv: 15% Price: $85 Charles Krug 2011 Limited Release X Clones Medium to full-bodied, elegant and well-composed, 92 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa the tannins are soft and structured, the wine able to Prim Family 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (How- Valley). For full review see page 5. age, drinking well now through 2020. —V.B. 91 ell Mountain). Similar in style and aging abv: 13.9% Price: $100 abv: 13.5% Price: $80 potential to the winery’s 2009, and blended with amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot, this Cabernet Cooper-Garrod 2009 Lone Oak Vineyard Es- Sauvignon from mighty Howell Mountain is rich 92 tate Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun-

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in spicy blackberry and clove, the tannins soft and the palate, where ripe plum and woody flavors meet ers of clove spice, and to further soften its tannins juicy. Cellar Selection. —V.B. with present but not overpowering tannins. —M.K. and coax out the shy component of herb. The vine- abv: 14.2% Price: $80 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 yard behind the wine is Bismark within the newly named Moon Mountain District. Cellar Selection. Renteria 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Ghost Block 2011 Single Vineyard Cabernet —V.B. 91 Valley). A modestly priced Napa Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (Yountville). For full review see abv: 15.9% Price: $64 that’s feral and brambly, the flavors well-composed page 9. and soft in black plum and black cherry. It’s well abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Respite 2010 Indulgence Reichel Vineyard balanced and structured with ample tannins and 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). length on the finish. —V.B. Howell Mountain Vineyards 2011 Hillside This wine was made by Bordeaux-trained winemak- abv: 14.2% Price: $32 90 Select Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Moun- er Denis Malbec and his wife, sommelier May-Britt tain). Soft and dusty, this is an herbal, elegant Malbec. They’ve sourced some exceptional fruit Sextant 2011 Kamal Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet from big mountain fruit, the tannins well- from the Reichel Vineyard, including some Malbec, 91 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 9. managed. It starts out with an intensity of black with some Cabernet Franc also blended in. Offer- abv: 14.59% Price: $42 fruit followed by sturdy structure and a finish of ing big tannins that await the cellar, it is otherwise chocolate and coffee. —V.B. a juicy wine rich in black and blue berry fruit, as Starfield 2011 Cabernet-Merlot (Napa Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $75 well as a taste of graham cracker and cigar. Enjoy 91 For full review see page 9. through 2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 Jordan 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- abv: 14.1% Price: $75 90 der Valley). In this vintage, the winery stays Turchi 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Bar- true to its reputation for making balanced, more Sequoia Grove 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard 91 bara County). Inebriating aromas of hearty restrained Cabernet, offering firm, structured tan- 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full tobacco, black earth, cassis and prunes kick off nins and bright cassis and blackberry around a deft review see page 10. Cellar Selection. another barrel-aged monster from Dave Corey. The sprinkling of dried herb. Built to age through 2025, abv: 14.4% Price: $90 cherry syrup and plum liqueur flavors remain bright it is equally enjoyable now, after a decant. Small with strong acidity as well as sturdy tannic struc- percentages of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec fac- Sequoia Grove 2010 Tonella Vineyard Cab- ture, meaning this one will last until 2020 at least. tor in. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full re- Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $53 view see page 10. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $20 abv: 14.4% Price: $90 Piña 2011 Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet Sau- Brander 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa 90 vignon (Howell Mountain). Dark black in Starfield 2011 The Starbeam Cabernet Sau- 90 Ynez Valley). A lush bouquet of cooked color and intensity, Buckeye is from a coolish high- 90 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see strawberries, black cherry sauce and just a touch of elevation site on Howell Mountain that often is the page 10. allspice kick off this fun, drink-me-now wine from winery’s last pick. In 2011 the fruit must have held abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Santa Ynez Valley pioneer Fred Brander. Good acid- on for a while, the components herbal and forest- ity and smooth tannins reminiscent of plum skin y, the finish suggestive of leather.Cellar Selection. The Divining Rod 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon surround a fruity palate, which boasts a flavorful —V.B. 90 (Alexander Valley). For full review see page arc. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 11. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Pride Mountain 2011 Vintner Select Cab- Calluna 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 90 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a Tolosa 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Ro- 90 (Chalk Hill). Among the first vintages from structured, fairly austere Cabernet fermented in 90 bles). For full review see page 11. a small, family-run vineyard and winery within the stainless steel and then aged in French oak. Dark abv: 13.4% Price: $24 Chalk Hill AVA, this also contains small amounts of and concentrated, the profile ripe in blackberry, ce- Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, dar, sage and bittersweet chocolate. —V.B. Broken Earth 2010 CV Reserve Cabernet Sau- all estate-grown. The wine is soft and medium- abv: 14.6% Price: $90 89 vignon (Paso Robles). Ripe strawberry pie bodied, brooding in savory leather and herb. —V.B. and cigar box aromas frame the nose on this top- abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Ram’s Gate 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- end offering from Broken Earth. It’s surprisingly 90 noma Valley). Fruit is sourced from Bis- light on the palate, with cherry pie and cranberry Chateau Margene 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon mark Vineyard in the Moon Mountain District. tartness leading the way alongside bright acidity 90 (Paso Robles). The deep, brooding nose Compared with the winery’s Winemaker’s Cuvée, and dainty tannins. —M.K. blends dark purple fruit with black licorice and this combines Cabernet Sauvignon (83%) with a abv: 13.8% Price: $59 Chinese black pepper sauce. Sage bark and anise larger percentage of Malbec (17%). It spends the contribute herbal tones to the palate—likely thanks same amount of time—two years—in French oak, Ehret 2010 Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sau- to the inclusion of 14% Merlot and 11% Caber- but slightly less of it is new. The flavors are more 89 vignon (Knights Valley). Winemaker Nick net Franc—and blackberries rule the fruit profile. approachable, still dark, massive and spicy, the Goldschmidt is behind this wine, an aromatic study —M.K. taste of oak slightly sweet. —V.B. in campfire and toasty smoke amid a palate of back- abv: 14.5% Price: $56 abv: 15.8% Price: $42 of-the-mouth tannins. Dense and soft, the wine needs more time in the bottle to settle. It aged in Domaine Eden 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Ram’s Gate 2010 Winemaker’s Cuvée Caber- French oak, 70% of it new, for 20 months. —V.B. 90 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Distinct jalapeño 90 net Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). This pow- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 aromas come alongside plum, boysenberry and star erful Cabernet Sauvignon calls on 13% Malbec to anise on this Cab from the team at historic Mount further its brawn, the mix spending two years in Krutz 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Limited Edi- Eden. The green pepper fades to the background on entirely new French oak. Hugely muscular, it needs 89 tion Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa time to calm its masterfully ripe fruit and dark lay- Valley). A Syrah-esque bit of smoke and cured meat

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 wafts from this wine aromatically, which follows nents are pleasantly in balance and restrained on balanced, the wine features soft, barely perceptible through on the palate. Bright cherry and currant the palate. —V.B. tannins. Tri-tip is a wise pairing suggestion. —V.B. fruit then intermix with a restrained sense of clove abv: 14.1% Price: $38 abv: 13.5% Price: $55 spice, the Stagecoach Cab blended with Malbec and Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new French oak. —V.B. Janzen 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Summerland 2013 Happy Canyon Cabernet abv: 14.8% Price: $55 88 ley). The winery’s largest-production Cab- 88 Sauvignon (Santa Barbara County). Widely ernet Sauvignon and that’s still minuscule by most accessible and hedonistic aromas of cherry pie with Black Box 2012 Platinum Cabernet Sauvi- standards, this lovely wine is lean in firm tannins a tinge of wild mint lead the nose on this young but 88 gnon (Central Coast). For full review see and dark plum, with a sprinkling of coconut flakes ready county blend. The palate is framed with oak page 14. Best Buy. and vanilla. Spring for the single-vineyard offerings influence and the associated tannins, as well as abv: 13.6% Price: $30/3 L for a fuller experience. —V.B. plum and ripe cherry fruit. It’s unusual that this abv: 15.1% Price: $50 2013 is on the market after 10 months in barrel. Bonneau 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma —M.K. 88 Valley). A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that Midnight Cellars 2011 Nebula Estate Caber- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 offers cherry, plum and earthy spice, the tannins 88 net Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Brown dust, soft and supple. This is a wine to enjoy now, aged plum jam, red cherry and black tobacco power the V. Sattui 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa close to two years in French oak, 20% of it new. nose on this medium-bodied Cab. It’s alluring on 88 Valley). A lush texture marks this wine that —V.B. the palate with dark fruit, mouthwatering spices has a handful of Merlot and Petit Verdot blended in. abv: 14.1% Price: $48 and a crème brûlée sense to the whole package. The bold flavors are classic cassis and black currant —M.K. tones. —V.B. Dewitt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander abv: 14.8% Price: $39 abv: 14.3% Price: $39 88 Valley). For full review see page 13. abv: 14.5% Price: $39 Muscardini 2010 Madrone Ridge Vineyard Broken Earth 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Me- 87 gnon (Paso Robles). Red clay dust meets Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Cabernet Sauvi- dium in weight and body, this offers juicy black boysenberry pie aromas on this wine. The cedar- 88 gnon (Dry Creek Valley). 2011 was the first cherry fruit around a core of dry tannins. The over- powered tannins jump on the palate quickly and last vintage for the winery’s new winemaker, Tim Bell, all texture is soft enough to enjoy now, the finish long into the finish, with red fruits of strawberry who surely had his hands full in a challenging year. savory in clove. —V.B. and raspberry gracing the flavor profile. —M.K. The result is impressive, a medium-bodied, brambly abv: 14.9% Price: $42 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 taste of cassis and thyme that offers nice minerality and balance and finishes in black tea. —V.B. Rock View 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Cooper-Garrod 2008 George’s Vineyard Es- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 (Alexander Valley). There’s a high-toned 87 tate Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun- quality to this Cabernet, juicy and yet restrained tains). Cherry syrup and wet chewing tobacco aro- Ghost Block 2011 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon in red cherry and dried cranberry, just a suggestion mas make for a unique nose. There is good acidity 88 (Oakville). This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon of cedar and dried herb lurking in the background. and decent tannic structure, but the dried cherry is distinct in herb and peppercorn, the red fruit Oaky and grippy toward the finish, the approach- flavors are quite light for the strong scents. —M.K. warm and juicy. Layered and soft, it’s approachable able flavors are laced with vanilla. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $39 and ready to enjoy now. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Deep Sea 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Sequoia Grove 2010 Healy Vineyard Caber- 87 Robles). Warm notes of leather mixed with Goldschmidt 2009 Yoeman Vineyard Plus 88 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This offers cherry lozenge fruitiness and cigar ash lead the nose 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). earthy, savory leather and dark, spicy layers of cas- on this bottling from Deep Sea, whose tasting room This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is aged 43 months sis and plum fruit, with intense chocolate mocha on Santa Barbara’s wharf offers tremendous views. in new French oak. The oak is indeed dominant here, weighing into the mix amid firm, structured tan- The flavor is blackberry with an herbal lift and a enveloping more subdued layers of savory leather, nins. Despite its brooding nature and thick skin, it tad of licorice, and the mouthfeel is more lean than dark berry and cassis. Firm, substantial tannins hit has a freshness on the palate, the acidity alive and lush. —M.K. on the back of the throat and coat the palate all the well. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 way through the long finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $90 abv: 14.6% Price: $150 Michael Pozzan 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Spann Vineyards 2011 Cross Creek Vineyard 87 (Sonoma County). Juicy in black and red Hunnicutt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis- 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Moon Mountain Dis- berry, this relatively inexpensive Cabernet is aged 88 toga). The winery makes a line of Cabernet trict Sonoma County). A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in both French and American oak. Tannins are soft Sauvignon from various AVAs of the Napa Valley, from one of Sonoma County’s newest appellations, and subtle, the power building on the finish. —V.B. highlighting each on the label. From warmer Calis- a district that spans Sonoma Valley’s eastern ridges abv: 13.5% Price: $17 toga, this mouthCab is brambly black fruit-forward near Napa’s Mount Veeder. Cross Creek Vineyard with layers of coffee and mocha. —V.B. has long been the source for this winery’s Cab, a Sextant 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Ro- abv: 14.7% Price: $85 fresh, juicy taste of black fruit with managed tan- 87 bles). Ripe, juicy berries dominate the nose, nins and hints of mint chocolate. —V.B. getting some aromatic lift from hints of eucalyptus J. Rickards 2011 Five Sisters Blend Cabernet abv: 14.8% Price: $50 and menthol. The mint and red fruit of cherries 88 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A blend of all consume the straight-forward palate, which is more five red Bordeaux varieties, with Cabernet Sauvi- Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2011 Artemis Cab- bright and lean than rich and tannic. —M.K. gnon the largest percentage, this is a soft, approach- 88 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A major- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 able and juicy wine. The cassis and herbal compo- ity Cabernet Sauvignon with 14% Merlot blended in, Artemis is aromatically inviting in dark plum, Souverain 2010 Winemaker’s Reserve Cab- currant and a streak of herb. Light, lean and well- 87 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Earthy

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and rich in mushroom notes, this wine also has a Reflections 2010 Meritage (Alexander Val- smaller percentages of Merlot, Petite Sirah and oth- prominent layer of mocha. It’s otherwise juicy in 86 ley). Made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon er, unspecified varieties, is slightly overripe in taste, clove and black cherry, the finish a mix of coffee and and 21% Merlot, this was aged in French oak, all like plums left in the sun. The finish is a bit herbal, coconut. —V.B. new, for almost two years. This is a leathery and sa- verging on green. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 vory wine, the tannins soft and firm and the nose abv: 14.5% Price: $34 perfumed in wild cassis and coconut. On the finish Taplin Cellars 2009 Terra 9 Cabernet Sauvi- is a sensation of burnt cedar. —V.B. Daniel Gehrs 2012 Limited Selection Caber- 87 gnon (St. Helena). Soft in black fruit, lico- abv: 14.3% Price: $80 83 net Sauvignon (Central Coast). Musty aro- rice and a chocolatey richness, offset by dusty tan- mas of saddle leather combine with cherry soda nins, this Cabernet is also accented by subtle spice Jekel 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Arroyo on the nose, and the flavors prove a bit thin, with and ripe plum. —V.B. 85 Seco). Nearly opaque in color, the wine of- cherry, raspberry and blackberry present amidst abv: 14.5% Price: $60 fers slight blackberry on the nose with a touch of tart tannins. The finish is quick. —M.K. pie crust. Despite some berry persistence, the fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Turchi 2007 Santa Barbara Highlands Super vors lean toward the savory side of Cab, with violet, 87 Duper Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa tobacco and wild game. —M.K. Kirkland Signature 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Barbara County). Although the wine is seven years abv: 13.5% Price: $17 83 (Alexander Valley). Definitely inexpensive, old, the tannic structure and tremendous grip re- but for a few dollars more, one might find more fruit main overwhelming. It smells of balsamic vinegar, Louis M. Martini 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon and texture. This is an earthy, basic quaffer that’ll smoked tobacco, anise and black currant before 85 (Sonoma County). A dark, smoky wine gen- please mostly on price. —V.B. delivering flavors of sweet tobacco and molasses. erous in both tannins and ripe, concentrated fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 It’s chewy and barely drinkable now, so hold until Small percentages of Petite Sirah and Merlot were 2020. Cellar Selection. —M.K. blended in, the Petite Sirah perhaps for color and Edna Valley Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.9% Price: $55 structure; the Merlot to soften things down a touch. 82 gnon (Central Coast). Familiar cherry-chalk —V.B. aromas lead the nose. Like the smell, the flavors feel Ancient Oak Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 13.8% Price: $20 formulaic, but with too much acid added. —M.K. 86 gnon (Alexander Valley). Blackberry is the abv: 13.9% Price: $15 flavor frontrunner in this soft, supple Cabernet. It’s Lucas & Lewellen 2011 Cote del Sol Caber- medium-bodied and toned-down in tannins. Drink 85 net Sauvignon (Santa Barbara County). La Merika 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central now. —V.B. The weather-wracked vintage of 2011 affected this 82 Coast). This wine’s pretty violet color may abv: 13.8% Price: $29 sometimes stunning bottling, presenting bell pep- be its most appealing characteristic, though the per greenness with a hint of black earth. It’s thin on nose of cherry, raspberry and black cardamom is Guarachi Family 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon the palate, which leans toward the greener side of pleasant enough. The palate’s tannic tartness feels 86 (Napa Valley). A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon the Cab spectrum, but remains very drinkable with forced and the flavors are thin, leaving more sensa- that spent a year and a half in French oak, more cherry cola and mocha flavors. —M.K. tion than taste. —M.K. than half of it new, this is a big-boned wine, leath- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 abv: 14% Price: $16 ery and full. An undeniable earthiness lurks in the background. —V.B. Medlock Ames 2011 Kate & B’s Cabernet Sau- Mossback 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk abv: 14.5% Price: $85 85 vignon (Alexander Valley). This is a 77% 82 Hill). A dollop of 20% Merlot adds softness Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Merlot and a smid- to this Cabernet that is otherwise simple and some- Laurel Glen 2012 Counterpoint Cabernet gen of Malbec, given almost two years to mellow in what rustic with a pronounced aroma and taste of 86 Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). This is the 30% new French oak. There’s a soft structure at green pepper. —V.B. winery’s more accessible and approachable Caber- the core of this wine and an overwhelming taste of abv: 13.9% Price: $25 net, ready to drink. Robust flavors of tobacco and leathery tannins overshadowing black cherry fruit, brambly blackberry provide a nod to the moun- the finish slightly bitter. —V.B. Rodney Strong 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon tain provenance. The wine spent more than a year abv: 13.8% Price: $75 82 (Sonoma County). This Cabernet is some- in oak, 30% of it new French and 10% of it new what thin, the cedar and oak overpowering the fruit American. The wood flavor is pronounced, a taste of Conway 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and a touch of green herb not entirely in balance. vanilla an endpoint to the finish. —V.B. 84 Valley). Sagebrush and cedar come to the —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 forefront on this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that’s abv: 13.5% Price: $20 muted and a bit tight. The red fruit leans toward Olema 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma cranberry and currant along with an interesting 86 County). Red currant and clove mark this earthiness. —V.B. CABERNET FRANC wine that’s lean in yeasty bread tones, with soft abv: 14.9% Price: $82 tannins. —V.B. Still Waters 2010 Estate Cabernet Franc (Paso abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Decoy 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma 91 Robles). Fruity frills of strawberry surround 84 County). Chewy and robust in tannins, this a core of black New Mexican chiles, with cinnamon Press Cellars 2010 Elsburg Vineyard Caber- was given a year in French oak barrels, 35% of it and clove emerging the longer one sniffs. There’s 86 net Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Black in new. The oak is still working its way through the nice tension between the fruit flavors and the nearly color, this is medium weight with the substantial fruit, which includes Merlot, Cabernet Franc and bell pepper greenness. Throw a chill on it and serve tannins characteristic of Howell Mountain fruit. It Petit Verdot. Jammy in thick raspberry and plum, with barbecued pork. —M.K. ventures into very ripe flavors of dark plum and sa- it features a dose of chocolate on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $28 vory tobacco and oak. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $50 Cooper-Garrod 2010 Francville Vineyard Louis M. Martini 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Cabernet Franc (Santa Cruz Mountains). 84 (Alexander Valley). This Cabernet with Fresh-squeezed blueberry, warm saddle leather and

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 pitch-black chewing tobacco aromas introduce an and supple vanilla. The tannins are soft and a play- Sanguis 2011 Infidels (Santa Barbara Coun- awesome Cab Franc experience from an unirrigated ful hint of herb marks the finish. —V.B. 93 ty). An attention-grabbing sense of umami vineyard planted in 1985. The cedar and even tan- abv: 14.4% Price: $80 introduces this wine, with darkly colored mush- nin flavors mesh elegantly with the blue and purple rooms, plum sauce, miso soup and black sage tick- fruit. —M.K. Brander 2012 Merlot (Santa Ynez Valley). ling the nose. There is dark chocolate with bits of abv: 14.3% Price: $29 89 Cigar box and very ripe strawberry domi- espresso on the palate, which is leveled by plum nate the aromatic profile, though a bit of bell pepper skins and berry flesh, with bitter tar and black pep- Brander 2011 Cabernet Franc (Santa Ynez lingers in the background. It’s light and racy on the per on the finish. —M.K. 88 Valley). The first to plant the grape in the palate, with cherry cola, cedar and mellow tannins, abv: 14.7% Price: $65 Santa Ynez Valley, Fred Brander has a current Cab making for a very fresh and fun wine, best served Franc release that hits the nose with black-as-night after mild chilling. —M.K. Still Waters 2009 Reflections of Still Waters scents of wet potting soil and black pepper. The abv: 13.5% Price: $22 93 Estate Grown Red Wine (Paso Robles). For flavors are slow to emerge, but blueberry crumble, full review see page 5. chocolate and crushed herbs appear with patience. Kenwood 2011 Jack London Vineyard Merlot abv: 14.4% Price: $38 —M.K. 87 (Sonoma Mountain). Planks of brawny oak abv: 13.8% Price: $30 are framed around the blueberry and raspberry fruit Transcendence 2012 Parea (Central Coast). brimming in this Merlot, a tribute to Jack London’s 93 Uplifting aromatics of blackberry soda and Gibbs 2010 Cabernet Franc (St. Helena). once-home in nearby Glen Ellen. The herbal com- purple flowers provide a nose that could be sniffed 88 Soft, supple and herbal, this is a classic, ponent lingers ominously, a refreshing taste of mint all day, hinting at a fun but elegant GSM. The flavors mid-weight Cabernet Franc from the Carpenter popping out on the finish. —V.B. fall in line, with cola, Bing cherries and rose water Vineyard in St. Helena. Affordable and approach- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 combining for a light, floral palate, yet with green able it reaches fairly high alcohol levels though it tea tannins and tartness to keep it grounded. —M.K. tastes much lighter. —V.B. Irony 2012 Merlot (Monterey). Reductive abv: 13.9% Price: $34 abv: 15.7% Price: $24 84 elements of black coffee and damp mush- rooms don’t blow off on this wine, which offers Daou 2012 Seventeen Forty Reserve (Paso Pride Mountain 2011 Cabernet Franc (So- plum on the palate, with a touch of mocha and ce- 92 Robles). The Daou brothers’ considerable 88 noma County). The Napa-Sonoma winery, dar. —M.K. and continual investments is evidence that their straddled across two counties, has added 12% Cab- abv: 14.5% Price: $16 wines will matter for years, ensuring a wise invest- ernet Sauvignon to the Cab Franc in this wine. The ment today. This 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% result is sizable in ripe, blueberry and blackberry Wellington 2010 Estate Vineyard Merlot (So- Merlot offers aromas of blueberry and cedar. Once fruit, soft tannins and a finish of dark chocolate. 83 noma Valley). This exhibits overripe char- sipped, the tannins grab with strength before dis- Void of any of the variety’s signature herbaceous acteristics and a sweetness that seems overdone. sipating smoothly. It’s a seamless combo of spice, signature, it could easily be mistaken for Cabernet There is 8% Petit Verdot blended in. —V.B. fruit, wood and herbs, but will evolve through at Sauvignon. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 least 2025. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $56

RED BLENDS Epiphany 2011 Syrah-Cabernet (Santa Bar- MERLOT 92 bara County). For full review see page 5. Caliza 2011 Companion (Paso Robles). Thor- abv: 15.2% Price: $35 Clos du Val 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). Wine- 94 oughly enjoyable and extremely delicious, 90 maker Kristy Melton continues to show a this blend holds 52% Syrah, 42% Cabernet Sau- Ferguson Crest 2011 Fergalicious (Santa Ynez sense of restraint in her wines. This Merlot provides vignon, 3% Tempranillo and 3% Petite Sirah. The 92 Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar a classic example, concentrated in dusty red fruit elegant nose integrates licorice, pepper and boy- Selection. and smooth, supple tannins, a sideways glance of senberry pie, and the palate draws a brilliant line abv: 14.6% Price: $40 cinnamon and clove flirting thoughout. Structure between tannins, ripe fruit and sweet pipe tobacco. and elegance reign here over power and oak. —V.B. Drink immediately. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Midnight Cellars 2009 Zenith Estate Cu- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 15.5% Price: $54 92 vée (Paso Robles). Blueberry, dried lilac, crushed violet and black pepper form a classic Flora Springs 2012 Merlot (Napa Valley). For Brander 2011 Bouchet (Santa Ynez Valley). nose on this Merlot-led Bordeaux blend from Paso 90 full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. 93 Brander’s annual Bordeaux blend features Robles’ celebrated Westside. The well-integrated, abv: 14.4% Price: $25 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and complex palate features fruit, herbs, spice and tar, 10% Merlot. There is ripe boysenberry, cedar and as if each one plays back-to-back solos. —M.K. Gibbs 2010 Money Road Merlot (Oakville). worn leather on the nose, followed by Bing cherry abv: 15.3% Price: $65 90 Concentrated and generous in sweet red flavors on the palate, where acidity and a light body fruit, this is a gangbuster Oakville Merlot for the combine for a lively finish. —M.K. Refugio Ranch 2011 Barbareño Syrah-Petite price. Balanced in fruit, herb and dry tannin, it’s a abv: 13.8% Price: $35 92 Sirah (Santa Ynez Valley). Vibrant white lovable quaff from a well-known vineyard. —V.B. pepper dominates the nose on this blend that fea- abv: 15.2% Price: $24 Epiphany 2011 Revelation (Santa Barbara tures 73% Syrah and 27% Petite Sirah. It’s light- 93 County). For full review see page 4. er in the mouth than expected, with raspberry Pride Mountain 2011 Vintner Select Merlot abv: 15.5% Price: $44 and wild berries giving red fruit lushness to more 90 (Sonoma County). From a classic producer cracked peppercorns. —M.K. who continues to do the variety justice, this Merlot Quintessa 2011 Red (Rutherford). For full re- abv: 15% Price: $38 is complex and concentrated. A taste of bright red 93 view see page 5. Cellar Selection. plum and berry fruit intermingles with toasty oak abv: 14.2% Price: $145

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Sequoia Grove 2010 Cambium (Napa Valley). Epiphany 2011 Gypsy (Santa Barbara Coun- austere and extremely dry wine, with very little 92 For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. 90 ty). For full review see page 9. overt fruit. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $125 abv: 14.9% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $39

Sextant 2011 Portolan (Paso Robles). This Kuyam 2008 Thirteen Moons (Santa Barba- Elyse 2010 C’Est Si Bon (California). Here is 92 blend of 50% Syrah, 23% Petite Sirah, 17% 90 ra County). Sour fruits, tobacco pipe resin 89 a hearty, full-bodied and dry red blend with Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache presents a delicious and toasted coconut combine for a funky but pleas- a vivid black cherry character and spicy accents like strawberry cake nose, backed up with dried purple ing nose on this blend from Core Wine Co. The fla- black pepper and fennel. Firm and quite tannic, it flowers and cigar box backbone. On the palate, ele- vors are leathery with plum jam, and vibrant acidity will pair nicely with rich meat or cheese dishes that gant purple fruits are laced with leather and pepper, runs from front to back. —M.K. need a little bite in the wine to balance them. —J.G. finishing with a cleansing tartness. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $19 abv: 14.4% Price: $28 abv: 15.1% Price: $80 Kuyam 2007 Cuvée Nolan Santa Barbara Haka by Labyrinth 2010 Freebird (Paso Anglim 2010 Best Barrel Blend Syrah-Mourvè- 90 Highlands (Santa Barbara County). Named 89 Robles). This blend of Merlot and Tempra- 91 dre (Paso Robles). Very appealing aromas of after winemaker David Corey’s son, this 74% Caber- nillo, with touches of Petit Verdot and Cabernet warm strawberry-cherry pie, red licorice and red net Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Ver- Sauvignon, opens with notes of warm cherry pie, rose promise ripe juiciness in this nearly equal dot and 3% Merlot begins with nose-tickling scents black tobacco and cedar. Fresh boysenberry starts blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. The palate delivers of berry syrup and smoked cigars. The maduro cigar the palate, with mouthwatering spice in the midpal- with cherry cola, and the wine almost seems sweet, flavor consumes the palate, with black cherry fruit ate and mocha on the finish. —M.K. yet is bone dry, with nice grippy tannins as well. and smooth tannins. It can stand up to a fat stogie abv: 14.5% Price: $22 —M.K. or gamy meats like lamb. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $42 abv: 14.9% Price: $42 Matchbook 2010 Tinto Rey (California). For 89 full review see page 12. Brown Estate 2012 Chaos Theory (Napa Val- Midnight Cellars 2009 Mare Nectaris Re- abv: 13.9% Price: $17 91 ley). Brown calls this wine its Cab lover’s Zin, 90 serve Red Wine (Paso Robles). For full re- blending 60% Zinfandel with Cabernet Sauvignon view see page 10. Naggiar 2010 Don Giovanni Estate Grown and Petite Sirah. It is a stunner, sultry in juicy red abv: 15.7% Price: $52 89 (Sierra Foothills). For full review see page plum, cassis, currant and earthy tobacco. Tannins 12. Editors’ Choice. are soft and leathery, and all the varieties are well Morse 2011 Horseplay Estate (Amador abv: 14.4% Price: $25 represented. —V.B. 90 County). For full review see page 10. Edi- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 tors’ Choice. Novy 2012 Four Mile Creek Red Wine (North abv: 14.3% Price: $25 89 Coast). For full review see page 12. Caliza 2011 Azimuth (Paso Robles). This sa- abv: 14.3% Price: $15 91 vory GSM blend, which gets tiny 3% boosts Rosa d’Oro 2012 Trigrammaton (Yolo Coun- of Petite Sirah and Tempranillo, begins with aromas 90 ty). Very well structured and richly tex- Pull 2010 CdR (Paso Robles). For full review of chicory coffee, ginger and a bit of blackberry fruit. tured, this is a serious red for a special occasion. 89 see page 12. Editors’ Choice. Black cherry fruit leads the flavor, with espresso It has a deep, smoky red color, slightly herbaceous abv: 13.9% Price: $18 and tar elements contributing to noticeable tannic and mineral aromas, generous cherry and raspberry grip. —M.K. flavors, full body and lots of fine tannins to give a Wolfgang Puck 2011 Red (California). Power abv: 15% Price: $54 soft bite on the palate. Made from 50% Tinta Roriz, 89 and polish come together in this full-bod- 35% Carmenère, 15% Cabernet Franc. —J.G. ied, firm-textured wine. A gutsy structure of acidity Concannon 2010 Reserve Assemblage (Liver- abv: 13.6% Price: $35 and tannin keeps the ample fruit flavors from be- 91 more Valley). Very concentrated, beautifully coming cloying. Hints of black pepper and clove add ripe and blackberrylike in flavor, this abounds with Taken 2011 Red Wine (Napa Valley). For full flavor complexity. —J.G. goodness from the grapes rather than woody flavors 90 review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 from barrels. The sweet-seeming fruit flavors come abv: 14.5% Price: $30 without a lot of tannin to dry the texture. Editors’ Cooper-Garrod 2008 Test Pilot Thunderbolt Choice. —J.G. William Hill Estate 2011 Benchmark (Napa 88 P-47 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Cigar box, abv: 14.9% Price: $20 90 Valley). For full review see page 11. spiced plums and wet tobacco give a serious scent abv: 14.8% Price: $95 profile to this half Syrah, half Cabernet Sauvignon Fess Parker 2011 The Big Easy (Santa Barbara blend. It’s surprisingly light at first while dancing 91 County). For full review see page 7. Charles B. Mitchell 2012 Estate Grand Re- on the palate with plum soda flavors, then delivers abv: 14.9% Price: $35 89 serve (Fair Play). Full-bodied and dry, this grippy tannic weight. Pair with prime rib. —M.K. has a very deep, saturated color and aromas of abv: 13.6% Price: $39 Core Winery 2009 Elevation Sensation Alta spicy oak, raspberries and cherries. With velvety 90 Mesa Vineyard (Santa Barbara County). texture, fine tannins and a lingering finish, it’s well Core Winery 2007 Ground Around (Santa This is a barrel-aged, punch-in-the-face blend of structured and youthful tasting. It should improve 88 Barbara County). Blueberry liqueur and 62% Grenache and 38% Mourvèdre from Santa through 2017. —J.G. cigar box aromas greet the nose on this blend of Maria-based winemaker Dave Corey, who sources abv: 14.2% Price: $48 Tempranillo, Syrah and Grenache, which spent 42 most of his fruit from the Cuyama Valley. Its cherry months in barrel and one year in bottle. There are syrup nose dives into a thick, juicy palate, heavily Cooper-Garrod 2007 Test Pilot Sabre Jet oaky tannins and a decent acidity that lingers long, spiced with tobacco, laden with chalky tannins and 89 F-86 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Elegant aro- surrounded by dark purple fruits, toasted coconut ending with vanilla. —M.K. mas suggest tar, prune, cherry preserves and mint. and a touch of vanilla. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $35 It’s soft on the mouth with unfolding tannins, fea- abv: 14.9% Price: $35 turing flavors of Italian herbs and cedar. It’s a very

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Kendall-Jackson 2012 Vintners Reserve Sum- Noble Vines 2012 1 Red Blend (California). ability. It smells like black plums, tastes medium- 88 mation (California). This serious red blend 87 For full review see page 13. bodied, slightly sweet, and has a touch of tannin to puts together a texture firmed up with gripping tan- abv: 14% Price: $15 balance it out. One of many new brands produced at nins and acidity, flavors brimming with blackberry the Terravant Wine Co. —J.G. and sweet spices and a lingering finish. Too struc- Summerwood 2010 Sentio (Paso Robles). abv: 13.8% Price: $23 tured to appreciate alone, it will need pairing with 87 The nose on this blend of 44% Cabernet roast beef, lasagna, ribs or the like. —J.G. Sauvignon, 43% Petit Verdot and 13% Merlot is St. Francis 2011 Sonoma Cuvée (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $17 slow to emerge, with cedar, slate and dark fruit 85 County). This feral, smoky Merlot-based eventually arising. Cedar is also prominent on the Bordeaux blend relies on a mix of Merlot, Caber- Michael Pozzan 2011 Marianna (Napa Val- palate, along with graphite, espresso and earthiness. net Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Red and black 88 ley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mal- —M.K. berry fruit intermingle amidst robust, dry tannins bec and Merlot, this is aged in French oak. Muted abv: 16% Price: $60 to make a statement of size and power. —V.B. aromatically at first, it opens into toasty oak and abv: 14.6% Price: $40 black plum fruit that’s restrained and quiet. Grippy William Hill Estate 2010 Benchmark (Napa tannins show up on the finish. —V.B. 87 Valley). Comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon Double Decker 2011 Red (California). Smoky abv: 13% Price: $45 and Petit Verdot, like the 2011, this vintage of 84 aromas, plummy flavors and a juicy texture Benchmark is sweeter and rounder, cherry and va- make this a good red for everyday occasions. It is Roth 2011 Heritage (Sonoma County). A nilla most prominent on the palate. Measured acid- medium-bodied, sweet enough to round out the 88 proprietary blend of Zinfandel and Malbec, ity helps move things along, the texture generously mouthfeel and easy to swallow. A mix of Cabernet with smaller parts Merlot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet rich. —V.B. Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Barbera. —J.G. Sauvignon and Syrah, Heritage is powerful and abv: 14.8% Price: $95 abv: 13% Price: $10 soft. It’s awash in blueberry, red plum and vanilla, all verging on superripe, the finish particularly in- Core Winery 2009 Hard Core (Santa Barbara Kirkland Signature 2011 Meritage (Napa tense. —V.B. 86 County). Yet another extreme barrel-aged 84 Valley). Tannic and slightly puckering, this abv: 14.5% Price: $30 wine from Core Wine Co. Cherry syrup and heavy blend of 49% Merlot with 41% Cabernet Sauvi- wood presence on the nose is followed by dark choc- gnon, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc is Savannah-Chanelle 2009 Montmarte olate, cooked vanilla and other flavors dominated by inexpensive and generic. Tastes approximate black 88 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Decadent aromas wood and age. —M.K. plum and black tea. —V.B. of cherry candy and vanilla cookies emerge from abv: 14.9% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $11 this blend of 55% Carignane, 22% Zinfandel, 12% Cab Franc (all three from the estate) and 11% Syr- Core Winery 2009 MGS (Santa Barbara Road i Red NV Red (California). This offers ah (from Coast View Vineyard in Monterey). The 86 County). Burnt caramel and cherry brandy 84 dry, straightforward herb and plum flavors, jammy palate is similarly rich, bordering on sweet, aromas present a very aged profile on the nose. The moderate tannins and medium body. A sturdy wine, with cherry compote, ripe cranberries, vanilla and flavors and tannins are quite heavy as well, thick in it should be versatile with food. —J.G. charred meats. —M.K. the mouth, yet the acidity is quite bright for being abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 15.5% Price: $60 five years old amidst such overpowering elements. —M.K. Insomnia 2011 Red (California). A standard St. Francis 2011 Rockpile Red (Sonoma abv: 14.9% Price: $19 83 wine, with slight aromas of strawberries, 88 County). From a base of 51% Cabernet Sau- flavors of plums, a somewhat sweet balance, mild vignon this robust red adds Petit Verdot, Merlot and HandCraft 2012 Inspiration A Red Wine (Cali- tannins and soft finish. —J.G. Malbec to concoct a soft, smooth and juicy red wine 86 fornia). Fresh raspberry and blackberry fla- abv: 13.8% Price: $11 that’s brooding in personality. The tannins are tar- vors liven up this juicy wine. A strong note of sweet like and sizable. —V.B. maple syrup comes out in the aroma and the flavors. Ironstone 2011 Obsession (Sierra Foothills). abv: 14.5% Price: $50 It feels soft in texture and medium-bodied, but a 83 There is an earthy side to this otherwise sheen of tannin makes the finish dry. —J.G. fruity, smooth, medium-bodied wine. It tastes quite Summerwood 2010 Diosa (Paso Robles). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ripe, slightly sweet, with low tannins and not much 88 Burly tar and campfire aromas pick up flo- acidity. Blended from Merlot, Zinfandel and Petite ral lift from lavender on this Syrah-dominant, rela- X 2012 Big Gun (California). This dark-col- Sirah. —J.G. tively high-alcohol blend. Grilled meats, creosote 86 ored, richly textured and full-bodied wine abv: 14.5% Price: $15 and asphalt flavors power the slightly rough-edged offers an apparent touch of sweetness and lots of palate. —M.K. spicy oak overtones. It does have tannins, and Horseshoeflats 2011 Lot 12 (California). abv: 16% Price: $60 they form a fine texture rather than drying out the 82 Based on Syrah and Merlot, this is a smooth, mouth. Blended from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, soft and slightly sweet blend. It is medium bodied, Ghost Pines 2012 Winemaker’s Blend (Napa Merlot and Grenache. —J.G. low in acidity and tannin, showing mild plum fla- 87 County-Sonoma County-San Joaquin Coun- abv: NA Price: $16 vors and a short finish. —J.G. ty). This mélange of grapes from Sonoma (56%), abv: 13.8% Price: $10 Napa (30%) and San Joaquin County (14%) inter- Helwig 2011 Round Up Red (California). This mingles Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Petite Sir- 85 smooth, very fruity and soft-textured red is Spin the Bottle 2011 Red (California). No ah, Syrah and Petit Verdot. An intense, weighty con- straightforward in flavor and easy to drink. It tastes 82 particular flavors pop out, but it’s smooth, coction of strawberry and leather, it’s well-priced like black cherry with hints of chocolate, feels medi- medium bodied and slightly soft in texture. —J.G. and distributed widely. —V.B. um-bodied and seems slightly sweet. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $11 abv: 14.6% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $16

Last Judgment 2011 Red (California). This 85 red aims for smoothness and easy drink-

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Quinta Cruz 2010 Silvaspoons Vineyard Sou- Byron 2012 Nielson Vineyard Chardonnay OTHER RED WINES 87 zao (Alta Mesa). The deep, saturated color 92 (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see and vivid, smoky flavors indicate a monster wine, page 5. —M.K. Anglim 2011 Hastings Ranch Vineyard but the reality is more complex and interesting. It abv: 14.8% Price: $32 93 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). More people smells like boysenberry, grilled beef and black pep- would crave Mourvèdre if it were done in this style, per, tastes grapey and berrylike but also roasted and Domaine Anderson 2012 Chardonnay (An- with light rather than heavy leather scents along- savory. It is surprisingly light-bodied considering 92 derson Valley). This attention-grabbing de- side purple fruits. Once sipped, it hits the tastebuds how flavorful it is. —J.G. but Chardonnay comes from a new sister winery to with blueberry soda, tobacco, licorice, black pepper abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Roederer Estate in Mendocino County. It shows a and wild game, all restrained and juicy rather than vivid yellow-gold color, butterscotch and hazelnut brooding and thick. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. aromas, butter and bosc pear flavors and tasty bread abv: 14.9% Price: $38 CALIFORNIA dough accents. Rich and full in flavor, it’s sleek in texture, but not too full-bodied. —J.G. Quinta Cruz 2010 Bokisch Vineyard Graciano WHITE WINES abv: 13.2% Price: $43 91 (Clements Hills). A Spanish grape variety produced this temptingly smooth, polished but CHARDONNAY Evening Land 2012 Sun Chase Vineyard Char- earthy-flavored wine. It smells like new leather, 92 donnay (Sonoma Coast). This is balanced seems young and still leesy and tastes deliciously Small Vines 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma and elegant in subtle pear, ginger and lemon. A fine fruity and supple. A bit decadent, it carries a long 94 Coast). From an organically farmed coastal food wine, it’s ideal for roast chicken in herbes de finish.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. vineyard above Sebastopol comes this structured Provence or ratatouille. Located in the Petaluma abv: 13% Price: $28 and elegant Chardonnay, rich in minerality and nu- Gap and the source of grapes for several wines, anced citrus tones. The meticulous farming guides Sun Chase was bought in 2013 by Guarachi Family Wise Villa 2012 Estate Grown and Produced every sip, the wine balanced and exquisite. —V.B. Wines. —V.B. 89 Touriga Nacional (Sierra Foothills). This abv: 13.8% Price: $53 abv: 13.7% Price: $40 well-balanced red made from a variety used in Port wines grows on you with each sip. It has bright Della 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For Fort Ross 2012 Fort Ross Vineyard Chardon- cherry and raspberry aromas, exotic floral flavors, 93 full review see page 4. 92 nay (Fort Ross-Seaview). For full review see good acidity, a smooth texture and medium body. It abv: 14.5% Price: $60 page 6. should be versatile with food. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $44 abv: 13.4% Price: $34 La Follette 2012 Sangiacomo Vineyard Char- 93 donnay (Sonoma Coast). Crisp and balanced Lafond 2011 Melville Vineyard Chardonnay Broken Earth 2010 Reserve Petit Verdot in bright acidity and apple skin, this also offers sub- 92 (Sta. Rita Hills). This begins with scents of 88 (Paso Robles). Candied blackberry, creo- tle toasted oak and caramel, the best of both worlds, dried orange rinds and mango laced with honey as sote and hot tar aromas fuel the nose of this Petit exuberant and elegant at the same time. Enjoy now well as deeper aromas of rocks and savory herbs. A Verdot, a grape increasingly getting solo time in or cellar until 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B. tight lemon acidity runs down the middle of the pal- Central Coast bottles. It’s thick on the palate, with abv: 13.5% Price: $38 ate, with yellow flowers, yeast and toasted pine nuts smoked tobacco, peppery spice and cigar-like tan- on the side. It’s both racy and rounded, and is show- nins. —M.K. Lafond 2011 Lafond Vineyard Chardonnay ing a touch of age. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Scents of chamomile tea abv: 14.8% Price: $32 with generous honey and lemon get down with Pianetta 2011 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). white flowers and baking pie crust on this offering Lynmar 2012 La Sereinité Chardonnay (Rus- 88 This rich, rewarding wine boasts a powerful from Pierre Lafond, who’s been making wine since 92 sian River Valley). With no new oak, La nose of wild game, blackberry candy, pine tar and the 1960s. The wine dances across the tongue with Sereinité is indeed serene, textured and round with blood. The tannins are chewy and the flavors remain bright papaya, pear and a dill-powered, nearly bitter vibrant acidity. The aromatics do the talking first, in the stewed blackberry range, a nice partner for finish. It’s showing almost no age, so will hold, but inviting one in with nuanced white peach, orange dessert of chocolate cake. —M.K. brilliant right now. —M.K. blossom and lime before the palate develops over abv: 14.4% Price: $32 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 time into richer, fuller flavors of crème brûlée. Throughout, the wine is balanced and expressive. Spann Vineyards 2012 Eight Barrels Cinsault Lynmar 2012 Susanna’s Vineyard Chardon- —V.B. 88 (Sonoma Valley). A measure of Syrah was 93 nay (Russian River Valley). For full review abv: 14.1% Price: $70 added to this Cinsault, probably to give additional see page 5. heft. Nonetheless, the wine remains wispy and light, abv: 14.4% Price: $55 Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Chardonnay a layering of strawberry, rhubarb and wild spice 92 (Russian River Valley). For full review see playing amongst a field of herb and white pepper. Sanguis 2011 Loner W11-A Chardonnay (Sta. page 6. —V.B. 93 Rita Hills). This is the most dynamic 2011 abv: 14.1% Price: $55 abv: 11.2% Price: $25 entry in Matthias Pippig’s Loner series, starting with aromas of lemon juice, lime sorbet, wet chalk, Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Old Wente Howell Mountain Vineyards 2011 Petit Verdot white pepper and crushed herbs. The tight, miner- 92 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Creamy 87 (Howell Mountain). Dusty and juicy, this is al-driven flavors dance across diced peaches and and lush, this offers currents of tropical coconut firmly structured and spicy in blackberry and pep- baked apples, with lime spritzer and baking soda complemented by floral gardenia and pear. Made per. The finish builds up to an afterthought of coffee thrown on top. —M.K. in a fuller style than some of the winery’s other and dark chocolate, accompanied by a distant cigar. abv: 14.3% Price: $60 vineyard-specific wines, the generosity of fruit is —V.B. expertly offset by searingly pleasant acidity, sus- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 taining it sip after sip. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Martin Ray 2012 Dutton Ranch Mill Station go well with the wine, accompanied by Stilton. Red Mare 2012 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay 92 Vineyard Chardonnay (Green Valley). For full —V.B. 91 (Russian River Valley). High-toned acidity review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 rules the day here, the wine a tempting mélange abv: 14.1% Price: $30 of fresh grapefruit, lemon and apple, the texture Complicated 2013 Chardonnay (Sonoma smooth and succulent. The flavors are long lasting Ram’s Gate 2012 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 91 County). For full review see page 7. Editors’ and complex. —V.B. 92 (Carneros). With voluptuous confectionary- Choice. abv: 14.3% Price: $40 like aromas surrounded by a rich toasty character, abv: 13.9% Price: $18 this wine from the wonderful Hyde Vineyard offers Santa Barbara Winery 2012 Reserve Chardon- lemon and crisp yellow apple around a core of bril- Evening Land 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma 91 nay (Sta. Rita Hills). Warmed croissant yeast- liant minerality. Vanilla and crème brûlée interplay 91 Coast). Lean and crisp, this light, ethereal iness matches up with sea salt and lemon butter on on the palate, the body of the wine firm and round. Chardonnay develops in the glass into something the nose of this bottling from the pioneering Santa —V.B. more substantial and complex. Herbal and slightly Barbara Winery. The salinity carries on the palate, abv: 14.1% Price: $68 savory, it intrigues and will be a nice companion to with apple pie and butterscotch presenting a nicely fresh green salads in a light vinaigrette. —V.B. oaked but not overdone palate. —M.K. Sanguis 2011 Loner W11-B Chardonnay (Santa abv: 13.4% Price: $35 abv: 14.6% Price: $25 92 Maria Valley). Working from an urban win- ery on Santa Barbara’s Eastside, Matthias Pippig FEL 2012 Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay (Ander- Talley 2012 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). A created the Loner Chardonnay series. This entry be- 91 son Valley). Like a bouquet made of different 91 sharp brine character gets warmer boosts with scents of , nectarine and lemon-lime types of flowers, this polished wine brings diverse from underlying pear, nectarine and buttered sour- soda before delving into a palate laden with yellow elements into a pleasing whole. There are ripe tropi- dough aromas. Flavors are light and bright at first, fruits and flowers. Sourdough yeastiness surrounds cal fruit, vanilla and butter aromas, rich apple and with sandy clay, vanilla cookie and custard strudel a lingering line of grapefruit zest-led acidity. —M.K. pear flavors, a soothing smooth texture and linger- emerging on the midpalate and a line of acidity abv: 14.8% Price: $60 ing finish. —J.G. down through the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $48 abv: 14% Price: $24 Talley 2012 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Ar- 92 royo Grande Valley). For full review see page Franciscan 2012 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay B Cellars 2012 Barrel Select Chardonnay 7. 91 (Carneros). For full review see page 8. 90 (Russian River Valley). With fruit predomi- abv: 14% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 nantly from the Mill Station Vineyard in cool Green Valley, warm baking spices and coconut macaroon Transcendence 2012 Rancho Santa Rosa Ken Brown 2012 Nielson Vineyard Chardon- embody this wine aromatically. A full body of ripe 92 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Pineapple, 91 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Made from grapes apple and vibrant minerality peaks on the finish. candied apple and a touch of guava jelly on toast grown in Santa Barbara County’s oldest commercial —V.B. achieve great aromatic balance on a rare Rancho vineyard, one of the region’s winemaking pioneers abv: 14% Price: $75 Santa Rosa Chardonnay. The flavors are lush, not presents aromas of citrusy meringue atop a core of racy, and evolve in a mellow fashion, from apple to toasting wood. The wood vanishes on the palate, Brown Estate 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Val- nectarine and then papaya. —M.K. leaving light and racy apple spritzer flavors with a 90 ley). From the well-known Zinfandel pro- abv: 13.7% Price: $34 grand show of minerality. —M.K. ducer, this floral Chardonnay is high in balanced abv: 14.3% Price: $38 minerality and marked by darker, riper pear and Big Basin 2012 Coastview Vineyard Chardon- apple fruit. The finish is swathed in vanilla bean 91 nay (Monterey County). From vines grown Kendall-Jackson 2013 Vintner’s Reserve Char- and toast. —V.B. in decomposed quartz and limestone at 2,300 feet 91 donnay (California). For full review see page abv: 14.2% Price: $55 on the eastern side of the Salinas Valley, this pres- 8. Editors’ Choice. ents nose-tickling aromas of squeezed lemon, flint abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Cebada 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Santa and roasted apple. It’s juicy and well-oaked on the 90 Ynez Valley). Though reserved in the nose, palate, with vanilla, lemon and pear qualities set Lombardi 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). this wine from a vineyard to the west of the Sta. against a tropical fruit canvas that centers on guava. 91 Crafted from Wente clone grapes from Rita Hills already presents a bit of aromatic age, —M.K. Charles Ranch, this label is the passion project of with honey, almond and dried apricot. It’s lean, abv: 14% Price: $44 longtime wine industry player Tony Lombardi, who bright and flinty once sipped, with gravel, tangerine manages the much larger Kosta Browne brand. Bar- pith and chamomile, proving to be a refreshing sip- Castoro Cellars 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Paso rel-fermented in neutral oak this wine offers heady per that never tires. Drink now. —M.K. 91 Robles). A solid wine for the price, this be- Tahitian vanilla and lemon curd around green ap- abv: 14% Price: $39 gins with honeydew and lime aromas. Flavors start ple skin and lemon. The palate is both creamy and with a spicy cinnamon apple before diving into but- crisp, the finish reasonably powerful. —V.B. Circadia 2013 Chardonnay (California). tered squash, melon and fresh lime, with a dash of abv: 14.5% Price: $36 90 Don’t let the generic California appellation salt. Best Buy. —M.K. fool you, this is a distinctive Chardonnay. It has abv: 13% Price: $15 Ram’s Gate 2012 Ulises Valdez Diablo Vine- subtle flavors of pear and toasted oak, and shows 91 yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Sear- a sophisticated and restrained style, with a vibrant Chasseur 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River ingly crisp and yet generous and intense, this Char- fruit core and good balance. Though medium bod- 91 Valley). Fully creamy and generous in crème donnay from one of grower Ulises Valdez’s prime ied, it plays crisp acidity off a lush texture and lin- brûlée and lemon curd, this dances in acidity and is properties is muscular and expansive, rich in apple gers on the finish. —J.G. balanced, the texture silky smooth. Highlights cen- and honey and a seasoning of mouth-tingling spice. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 ter on fresh-cut Anjou pear, a slice of which would It exemplifies California exuberance. Let it breathe for a while, or age 2020–2025. —V.B. Clos La Chance 2012 Harman Vineyard Char- abv: 14.9% Price: $64 90 donnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Expertly

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integrated butter elements mix with peach and lime in a majority of new French oak, it’s built to age Bread & Butter 2012 Chardonnay (Califor- spritz on the nose. This single-vineyard Chardon- through 2025 or more. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 88 nia). For full review see page 13. nay offers stone fruit flavors, slight sea saltiness and abv: 15.1% Price: $74 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 a long vanilla finish for very easy drinking. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Transcendence 2012 Zotovich Vineyard Ideology 2012 Blondie Gone Wild Red Hen 90 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Red apple aro- 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Oak Knoll). Light in Clos La Chance 2012 Murphy’s Choice Char- mas form the core with pear and yellow melon on oak and mid-weight all in all, this Chardonnay from 90 donnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). A pleasant the fringes of this stainless steel Chardonnay from a cooler sub-section of the Napa Valley is replete aromatic mix of sweet buttercream with salted cara- Lompoc’s Kenneth “Joey” Gummere. The tart green with baked apple veering into dried fruit character mel join with pineapple and guava on this wine from apple and pear skin acidity is expected, but it re- and a touch of vanilla. —V.B. the hills above Silicon Valley. It is nicely rounded on tains a full body—a prime example of a stainless abv: 14.5% Price: $33 the palate, with pear, apple and more guava leading Chard that’s sleek but not overly austere. —M.K. to a yeasty, acidic finish. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $34 J. Lohr 2012 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay (Ar- abv: 14% Price: $35 88 royo Seco). A rich golden yellow in color, Zaca Mesa 2011 Zaca Mesa Vineyards Char- this offers warm vanilla aromas that tighten into Crossbarn by Paul Hobbs 2013 Chardonnay 90 donnay (Santa Ynez Valley). One of Santa pineapple, lemon-lime soda and roasted nuts. 90 (Sonoma Coast). A tremendously well- Barbara County’s pioneer properties delivers a aro- Rounded fruit flavors are coated in buttercream, made Chardonnay at the price and production matically luscious wine with white flowers, French with a slightly hot finish. Great option for the oaked levels, this is lean in high-toned acidity but offers toast, quince and lime sorbet on the nose. It’s a bit Chard crowd. —M.K. tropical goodness, a swath of lime throughout. Bal- like sipping perfume of tuberose and honeysuckle, abv: 14.3% Price: $25 anced and tense, the of lime comes back on the yet there is bouncy acidity and chalky minerality, finish. This is a great wine to stock up on for larger ensuring an emerging shelf life through 2018. Edi- Joullian 2012 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Char- gatherings. —V.B. tors’ Choice. —M.K. 88 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Grapefruit abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 pith, green apple and sea salt make for a striking nose from fruit grown on one of the appellation’s Inman Family 2012 Chardonnay (Russian Blackjack 2012 Black Cap Reserve Chardon- older vineyards. Rich flavors of apple cream, lemon 90 River Valley). Inman has not offered much 89 nay (Santa Barbara County). The inviting curd and salty caramel carry the palate. —M.K. Chardonnay before, but this one is highly distinc- scents of melting butter on hot dinner rolls and abv: 14.2% Price: $35 tive, light as a feather, floral, crisp and citrusy, vanilla-lemon custard ensure a rich wine, and the basking in Chablis-like, wet stone minerality. Those palate delivers with caramelized apples, dominant Landmark 2012 Damaris Reserve Chardon- looking for butter and oak should travel elsewhere; oak and more vanilla on the finish. It is balanced 88 nay (Sonoma Coast). A pretty, floral, old- at a preposterously unheard of 11.6% alcohol, this out with mustardy tartness and lemon rind acidity. world intensity of aroma characterizes this wine. wine offers silky, subtle intrigue. —V.B. —M.K. Soft and supple on the palate, it offers fruit zesty abv: 11.6% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $48 in grapefruit peel and lime, before developing into richer notes of caramel and oak. —V.B. Lynmar 2013 Laguna Ridge Chardonnay (So- Davis Bynum 2012 River West Vineyard Char- abv: 14.3% Price: $35 90 noma County). For full review see page 10. 89 donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 view see page 11. One Hope 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Sta. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 88 Rita Hills). This already-peaking Chardon- Lynmar 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River nay, which benefits the One Hope Foundation, gives 90 Valley). From a myriad of wonderful vine- Mercy 2012 Riverbed Chardonnay (Arroyo insight into the varietal’s aged nuances, with aro- yards, this vibrant wine offers an incredible deal at 89 Seco). From this appellation’s tremendous- mas of marshmallow, hazelnut and dried mango and the price, with a lively bouquet of fennel, apple and ly rocky soils come aromas of golden pear and but- apricot. The flavors are all secondary, from salty pear. Chalky in texture with delicious acidity, it has tered toast. The palate is dominated by racy tones macadamia nuts to dried fruit, with pithy bitterness baking spices popping up on balanced finish. —V.B. of lemon peel and fresh-cut yellow flowers, but and baked cake crust. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 rounded out with a slight vanilla buttercream on abv: 13.5% Price: $30 the finish. —M.K. Migration 2012 Charles Heintz Vineyard abv: 14.3% Price: $24 Summerland 2013 Chardonnay (Santa Bar- 90 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full re- 88 bara County). Quite light in color, this is a view see page 10. Trefethen 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Oak lighter style of Chardonnay, kicking off with crispy abv: 14.1% Price: $55 89 Knoll). Barrel-fermented , this nonethe- green apple aromas mixed with a bit of barrel less offers clean, crisp flavors of pear and pineapple smoke. Lime and apple lead the lean palate, which Pride Mountain 2012 Vintner Select Char- on the palate. The fruit lingers through a medium- shines with granite minerality. —M.K. 90 donnay (Sonoma County). Restrained in sized body that picks up steam on the finish, delving abv: 14.1% Price: $20 new oak, this refined wine has a floral honeysuckle into richer notes of fig and lemon curd. The fruit is character that’s followed by hearty, rich layers of 100% estate. —V.B. Three Sticks 2012 Durell Vineyard Origin apple and melon. Just a touch of licorice and orange abv: 14.1% Price: $35 88 Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). Aged entirely zest appears on the finish. —V.B. in stainless-steel barrels, Origin hails from some of abv: 14.2% Price: $50 Arrowood 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coun- Durell Vineyard’s rockiest and windiest sub-sites, 88 ty). Lemony and toasty, this approachable adding to its sense of complexity and intensity. Ram’s Gate 2012 Durell Vineyard Chardon- wine is rich and balanced, its texture soft and the Creamy in pear, grapefruit and lime, it’s plenty rich, 90 nay (Sonoma Coast). Significantly full and flavors long-lasting, highlighted by a taste of lemon the lush mouthfeel resulting from fermentation in expansive in vanilla, lemon curd and toasty oak, the meringue. —V.B. concrete egg. —V.B. Durell Vineyard shows its power here, generous in abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.6% Price: $48 ripe flavors and rich earth. Aged just under a year

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 VML 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- Bishop’s Peak 2013 Chardonnay (San Luis Three Sticks 2012 One Sky Chardonnay (So- 88 ley). Lemon-lime and lemon curd mark this 86 Obispo). Talley Vineyards’ bargain brand 86 noma Mountain). From a vineyard on the wine. The lemon theme continues throughout the offers light lemon and chalk aromas before deliver- southeastern side of Sonoma Mountain this spent layers of apple, vanilla and oak, the oak not percep- ing a palate where brisk acidity is the primary play- more than a year in French oak, half of it new. Gold- tible until near the round, voluptuous finish. —V.B. er. White rocks, apple, lime and honeysuckle flavors en in color, it features quiet aromatics of coconut abv: 14.6% Price: $28 linger in the wings. —M.K. and tropical pineapple around light minerality and abv: 13.7% Price: $16 a citrus-tinged finish. —V.B. Gibbs 2012 Terroir NV Block Chardonnay abv: 14.8% Price: $50 87 (Napa Valley). There is dialed-high acid- Black Box 2013 Platinum Chardonnay (Cen- ity on the front palate of this wine, followed by 86 tral Coast). For full review see page 15. Best Dante Robere 2012 Chardonnay (Livermore lean layers of pineapple and fig. Aged in 40% new Buy. 85 Valley). The deep gold-brown color hints French oak, the toast notes are subtle and the finish abv: 13.5% Price: $30/3 L that this will be something unusual. Made in an satisfyingly soft. —V.B. overtly oaky style, this smells toasty and buttery abv: 14.1% Price: $24 Chloe 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). and tastes like that too. Some will love it but more 86 Made by winemaker Georgetta Dane, this fruit flavor would balance out the apparently heavy Justin 2013 Chardonnay (Central Coast). A white is awash in kumquat and vanilla, the medi- winemaking inputs. —J.G. 87 vibrantly tropical nose of guava and ripe um-bodied layers of texture soft and round and ac- abv: 14.3% Price: $22 pear meets with a touch of hard vanilla candy on cessible to a broad range of palates. —V.B. this affordably priced wine from the pioneer win- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Ironstone 2013 Chardonnay (Lodi). Light ery of Paso Robles. It’s a powerfully flavorful, cock- 85 and charming, this offers floral aromas, tail-style Chardonnay, with prominent papaya and Entwine 2012 Chardonnay (California). Sub- tropical fruit flavors, perhaps a touch of sweetness, mango fruit, followed by a blast of acidity and kiwi 86 tle flavors and a rather lush texture make a smooth texture, medium body and appley finish. It grassiness on the finish. —M.K. this medium-bodied Chardonnay very pleasant to should be refreshing when well chilled. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 taste. The aromas are like melon and apple, the fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 vors are modestly fruity and minerally, and the fin- Materra 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Oak ish is clean. It was produced by the Food Network Truett Hurst 2012 Swallowtail Chardonnay 87 Knoll). Aged in a majority of neutral French and Wente Vineyards. —J.G. 85 (Russian River Valley). Aromas are wintery oak, the wine has opening aromas that impart gen- abv: 13% Price: $13 in baking spices and cinnamon stick. Flavors follow erous toasty characteristics before mellowing into suit, awash in rich vanilla and butterscotch with a nutty, vanilla swirls and a lingering taste of green La Chertosa 2012 Reserve Chardonnay layering of ripe tropical fruit and apple. —V.B. apple. —V.B. 86 (Sonoma Valley). From Sam Sebastiani abv: 14.4% Price: $27 abv: 14.1% Price: $22 comes this Chardonnay made in a classic Califor- nia manner. Rich in buttery oak and sweet vanilla, La Merika 2012 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Mercy 2012 Zabala Vineyard Chardonnay (Ar- the grapes are a mix of Wente and older clones, fer- 84 Sparse on the nose at first with some emer- 87 royo Seco). There’s warm brioche and pluot mented and aged in a combination of French oak, a gent minerality and ripe green apple, this relies on skin aromas to this tightly wound wine from a par- third of it new. —V.B. a tension between chalky, grapefruit skin bitterness ticularly river rock-strewn vineyard. The palate is abv: 14.2% Price: $35 and ripe green pears. —M.K. pungently acidic with bitter lime peel surrounding abv: 14.5% Price: $13 a cooked apple core. Serve with raw shellfish as a McFadden Vineyard 2013 Blue Quail Char- replacement for squeezed citrus. —M.K. 86 donnay (Potter Valley). Fresh and appar- Simi 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Russian abv: 14.3% Price: $30 ently unoaked, this offers an appealing floral aroma, 84 River Valley). Green apple and tangerine fig- with a slight buttery accent over the crisp apple ure into this thin-layered wine that’s sourced from Migration 2012 Searby Vineyard Chardonnay flavors. It is light to medium-bodied, soft in tex- estate vineyards as well as purchased Russian River 87 (Russian River Valley). A site planted to the ture, showing no apparent oak flavors but instead Valley fruit. Straightforward and unfussy, the wine Rued clone of Chardonnay in classic Russian River straightforward fruit character. —J.G. is ready to enjoy now. —V.B. Valley Goldridge soils, Searby is expressive in hon- abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 eysuckle and orange blossom floral tones. This bal- anced wine is soft and round, its time in oak reach- Migration 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River ing an apex on the finish. —V.B. 86 Valley). Fruity and robust in apple and VIOGNIER abv: 14.1% Price: $55 tropical citrus, this is well-defined and balanced in terms of oak and richness, the aromatics a tad mut- Rock Wall 2013 Kristen’s Cuvee Viognier (Cal- Naughty Boy 2012 Thornton Ranch Chardon- ed. Fermentation occurred in both stainless steel 92 ifornia). For full review see page 6. 87 nay (Potter Valley). The sunny personality and French oak. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $20 shows ripe pear, vanilla and melted butter flavors, abv: 14.1% Price: $32 medium body, a nicely smooth texture and some Anglim 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Viognier fresh acidity. The typical California fruitiness seems Presqu’ile 2012 Presqu’ile Vineyard Char- 90 (Santa Barbara County). Nicely rounded well complemented by oak. —J.G. 86 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). Coming from pear aromas surround lemon-lime soda and honey abv: 14.3% Price: $16 one of the appellation’s newest and most exciting in the center of the nose on this refreshing, cooler- vineyards, this oak-powered wine opens with notes climate Viognier, which offers very pleasant flavors Sextant 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Edna Val- of bright citrus and vanilla-laced buttercream. The of peach and citrus rind. It’s light-bodied and very 87 ley). This is lean on the nose, with tart apple palate is powered by the barrel, with hardcore cara- easy going down. —M.K. and just a touch of white flowers. There’s more to mel and an almost bitter tannic element. Better for abv: 14.2% Price: $28 the palate—citrus pith bitterness, thyme-like herbs, the oak lovers than the acid heads. —M.K. apple juice—but it’s the acidic focus is laser-like, abv: 14.2% Price: $42 Four Fields 2012 Viognier (El Dorado). Aro- and not lush at all. —M.K. 89 mas of white peach and vanilla highlight abv: 14.2% Price: $25 this rich-textured, rather full-bodied .

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It’s made in a generous rather than crisp style, as add interest. It is tangy, refreshing and just a bit veers into tart grapefruit and lemon before settling if it were barrel fermented, and a buttery lushness restrained until the finish, where it opens up and on satisfying white peach. —V.B. defines it more than the fairly subtle fruit flavors. stays with you. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Very tasty overall. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $22 abv: 14.6% Price: $22 Kelleher 2013 Block 21 Sauvignon Blanc Six Sigma Ranch 2013 Asbilll Valley Sauvi- 88 (Napa Valley). The majority of the grapes Ferguson Crest 2010 Viognier (Santa Ynez 90 gnon Blanc (Lake County). For full review for this wine were fermented in stainless steel, a 88 Valley). The Black Eyed Peas’ singer Fergie see page 10. Editors’ Choice. mere 10% in neutral oak, resulting in a fruity, dry and renowned winemaker Joey Tensley present an abv: 13.5% Price: $18 expression of fresh pineapple juice and a surprise in-your-face Viognier, deeply yellow, nearing brown jolt of natural sweetness, especially on the midpal- in color, with aromas of dried apricot, honey-roast- Fritz 2013 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc ate. In the end, things finish fantastically in a whirl ed nuts and smoky with lime. Lush flavors of 89 (Dry Creek Valley). Almost entirely ferment- of acidity. —V.B. burnt orange peel, smoke and Scotch make ed in stainless steel, it has unquestionable acidity abv: 14.5% Price: $30 for an intriguing drink, certainly not for those seek- captured in the bottle, without a sacrifice of ripe, ing a dainty white wine. —M.K. juicy peach fruit. Lemongrass lingers on the tail Rodney Strong 2013 Charlotte’s Home Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 end. —V.B. 88 vignon Blanc (Northern Sonoma). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $25 review see page 13. Sobon Estate 2013 Viognier (Amador Coun- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 87 ty). Dry and full-bodied, this structured Michael David 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- version of Viognier has subtle fruit aromas of melon 89 fornia). For full review see page 12. Star Lane Vineyard 2013 Sauvignon Blanc and peach, flavors accented by oak and vanilla, a abv: 13.5% Price: $16 88 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Ex- firm texture and clean finish. A substantial white tremely sharp scents of freshly cut grass morph into wine, it should pair well with seafood, light meat Sierra Starr 2013 Solstice Sauvignon Blanc tart Granny Smith apple and hints of guava on this dishes and creamy sauces. —J.G. 89 (Nevada County). For full review see page bottling from one of the most striking vineyards in abv: 13.8% Price: $16 12. California. It’s bright and lively on the palate, prov- abv: 14% Price: $16 ing easy-to-drink, uncomplicated and fresh. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $22 SAUVIGNON BLANC Villa San Juliette 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 89 (Paso Robles). Passionfruit dominates Byington 2013 Ventana Vineyards Sauvignon Mercy 2013 Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc the nose on winemaker Matt Ortman’s tropically 87 Blanc (Monterey County). From a winery 92 (Arroyo Seco). The grape’s stereotypical infused take on the grape, with a dash of kiwi to based in the Santa Cruz Mountains, this Monterey green nose gets a whole new interpretation, with lighten things up. That tropicality rules the palate wine features a delicate nose of chives, white flow- aromas of sunburned hay, bags of desiccated grass as well, but with a touch of flint as a grounding ele- ers, pear and cut grass. It’s fresh but brief on the and wild oregano. The herbaceous characters carry ment. Best Buy. —M.K. palate, with limestone minerality, and a little dill on the palate, but it’s smooth with thyme and chile abv: 14.4% Price: $14 the finish. —M.K. verde flavors, and a lingering bit of citrus tartness abv: 14.5% Price: $24 and tannic grip. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Cosa Obra 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 County). A taste of Key lime and tonic un- Castoro Cellars 2013 Estate Sauvignon Blanc veil a vibrancy of aroma and high-acid flavor in this 87 (Paso Robles). Key lime pie and chalk lead Murphy-Goode 2013 The Fumé Sauvignon wine, additionally characterized by layers of crisp the nose on this affordable offering from a long- 91 Blanc (North Coast). For full review see page white peach and pineapple juice. —V.B. time Paso producer. The flavor profile is wide and 14. Best Buy. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 welcoming, with apple, pear and citrus elements. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 —M.K. First Press 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- abv: 13% Price: $15 VML 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Val- 88 ley). Offering great value white, this is 90% 91 ley). Grapefruit rind jumps out of the glass in Sauvignon Blanc with 10% Sémillon. It’s bright and Grassini 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Can- this vivid, balanced and refreshing white that also intensely flavored, first with pineapple followed by 87 yon of Santa Barbara). There’s a dash of carries a complex mix of lime, more grapefruit and a flash of grapefruit and layering of vanilla. A crowd rockiness to the nose of this wine from one of the the tiniest suggestion of fresh-cut grass. A creami- pleaser and food-friendly quaff. —V.B. main producers in this warmer Santa Barbara ap- ness to the texture rounds things out and soothes abv: 14.5% Price: $17 pellation, but the aromas are mostly ripe pear and the edges. —V.B. red apple. There’s not a ton of flair to the light and abv: 14.3% Price: $23 Flora Springs 2013 Soliloquy Sauvignon easy palate, so expect poached pears, a touch of 88 Blanc (Oakville). Fruity in faint white green apple and some grassiness. —M.K. Wildhurst 2013 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc peach, this dry and balanced Sauvignon Blanc car- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 91 (Lake County). With rich melon aromas, ripe ries enough Oakville heft to give texture and grip. apple flavors and a soothing, almost soft texture, It’ll pair magnificently with fresh shellfish or red Kokomo 2013 Timber Crest Vineyard Sauvi- this wants some rich, sophisticated cooking to go curries. —V.B. 87 gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Fermented in with it, like sautéed fish with a classic French sauce. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 both tank and new acacia barrels, there’s definitely Subtle acidity keeps the notes of almond and apple a depth of woodiness on the opening aromas. This lingering on the finish.Best Buy. —J.G. Gary Farrell 2013 Russian River Selection is followed by a creaminess of texture on the pal- abv: 13.9% Price: $14 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Se- ate, the taste leaning toward pear, vanilla and fresh lected from the Ritchie Vineyard, this expressive melon. The finish is first creamy, then crisp, veering Bink 2013 Randle Hill Vineyard Sauvignon white offers lychee and lemongrass, plus exotic back on spritzy. —V.B. 90 Blanc (Yorkville Highlands). Subtle fla- currents of spice that playfully interject themselves abv: 14.1% Price: $20 vors, great balance and some mineral complexity throughout the fruit. Refreshing in acidity the wine

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Truett Hurst 2013 Bluebird Sauvignon Blanc Circadia 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (California). nose, and warmer, expressive flavors of peach make 87 (Russian River Valley). Nutty and zesty in 85 This has the herbaceous character that for a perfect poolside beverage. —M.K. mouthcoating, tingling acidity, this features a depth is true to its varietal type. A bit more zip (acid- abv: 13.6% Price: $20 of grassiness and lime. It has just enough heft on ity) would complement the strong flavors. It shows the palate to be enjoyed alone or with spicy Mexican grassy, snap-pea aromas, canteloupe notes and a Double Decker 2012 Pinot Grigio (California). food like chilequiles. —V.B. soft texture. —J.G. 84 Very mild but pleasant tasting, this offers abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $20 virtually no aroma, light herbal flavors and a crisp- enough balance. It is almost clear in color, light in Bink 2013 Old Chatham Ranch Sauvignon J. Rickards 2013 Croft Vineyard Sauvignon body, and brings a slight melon flavor on the finish. 86 Blanc (Yorkville Highlands). This has a re- 85 Blanc (Alexander Valley). Grass and goose- —J.G. strained but earthy personality that grows on you berry compete for favor in this zesty, straightfor- abv: 13% Price: $10 as you sip. It smells faintly like a pine forest, tastes ward wine. It’s long on the finish in tropical hits of like grapefruit and stays nicely tangy on the finish. pineapple and guava. —V.B. La Merika 2013 Pinot Grigio (Monterey). The It should loosen up and taste even better by mid- abv: 14.3% Price: $20 84 nose is weak, with just slight pear and fleet- 2015. —J.G. ing wet rocks, and the flavors aren’t powerful either: abv: 14.2% Price: $26 Owl Ridge 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek apples, pears, lime pith and barely ripe peach. It’s 85 Valley). A waxy texture wraps around tropi- an easy-to-drink summer wine, good with a crab Field Stone 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Alex- cal fruit, cantaloupe and lemongrass in this simple louie. —M.K. 86 ander Valley). Dry and refreshing this is a quaff of refreshing juice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 crisp white from a warm region of Sonoma County. abv: 13.2% Price: $18 A hit of sweetness to the finish is a mere accent, Entwine 2012 Pinot Gris (California). Re- the way adding vanilla to pancake batter can be. The One Hope 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- 83 freshing but very reserved in flavor, this fruitiness comes from lemon, melon and grapefruit 84 nia). A softer than usual style of Sauvignon wine is clean and basic. With a watery color, neutral rind. —V.B. Blanc, this drinks more like a Chardonnay. It fea- aromas and flavors, and medium body, the effect is abv: 13.5% Price: $20 tures honeydew melon and kiwi flavors, low acidity unassuming. —J.G. and a smooth texture. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $13 Kendall-Jackson 2013 Vintner’s Reserve abv: 13.5% Price: $12 86 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Layers of fla- Ironstone 2013 Pinot Grigio (Lodi). This al- vor and a buttery note characterize this medium- Brutocao 2013 Feliz Vineyard Sauvignon 83 most colorless wine has a slight aroma of bodied Sauvignon. It falls between the crisp New 82 Blanc (Mendocino County). Sauvignon Blanc bananas and roses, and a very light flavor of cucum- Zealand style and the oak-aged Fumé Blanc style, can vary in style from merely crisp and almost neu- bers. It’s light-bodied, soft in texture and short on with good aspects of both. The finish turns slightly tral to more herbaceous examples like this. It con- the finish. —J.G. sweet. —J.G. veys an assertive, slightly heavy personality with abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 plenty of herb and eucalyptus flavors, a rather soft texture for this variety and dry finish. —J.G. Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2013 Pinot Materra 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Oak Knoll). abv: 13.5% Price: $14 83 Grigio (California). Here’s a clean, dry, light- 86 Made closer to a New Zealand style, freshly bodied white wine with green-apple and celery aro- cut grass never far behind, this white also exhibits mas and flavors that are very mild. The first sip is plenty of California tropical fruit and an intensity of PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO crisp and refreshing, and it turns softer and leaner acidity, particularly as it finishes. —V.B. on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $18 FEL 2013 Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley). This abv: 12.3% Price: $8 91 has a brighter yellow color than most of its Tuck Beckstoffer 2013 Est. 1975 Sauvignon peers, more body, riper fruit flavors and—unusual­ Belle Ambiance 2013 Pinot Grigio (Califor- 86 Blanc (California). White pepper and celery for this variety in America—probably some oak in- 82 nia). It doesn’t seem to be a sin for Pinot aromas, along with distinctly herbaceous and tart fluence. Rather full bodied, but well-balanced and Grigio to be a simple refreshment. This pleasant, flavors give a tight aspect. It is definitely light, crisp very smooth, it combines peach and pear flavors mild-mannered white wine tastes like mixed fruit and mouth-cleansing; would be great with raw oys- with a hefty mouthfeel.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. , is medium- bodied and rather soft in tex- ters or goat cheese on toasts. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 ture. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $14 abv: NA Price: $10 Toulouse 2013 Helluva Vineyard Pinot Gris William Hill Estate 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 90 (Anderson Valley). For full review see page 86 (North Coast). Well-rounded, this offers 11. RIESLING aromas of fresh-cut grass and citrus fruit, citrusy abv: 14.3% Price: $24 flavors, good acidity, a smooth texture and soft fin- Dutton-Goldfield 2013 Chileno Valley Riesling ish. Very refreshing, it will be a good match with Horse & Plow 2013 McFadden Farm Made 91 (Marin County). This dry, subtle and elegant seafood, goat cheese or grilled chicken. —J.G. 89 From Organically Grown Grapes Pinot Gris Riesling is an exception to the rule of semisweet and abv: NA Price: $17 (Mendocino). A savory, mineral aspect makes this obviously fruity California versions. It smells like dry wine especially interesting. It has slightly herbal crisp apples and white peaches, tastes quietly rich Chasing Venus 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- aromas, white peach flavors, rather full body that but with spicy, earthy accents, and has a pleasantly 85 sian River Valley). Ripe sweet tropical pine- adds lushness, and a lingering finish. —J.G. thick texture. —J.G. apple and guava mark this wine as does a sway of abv: 13.3% Price: $22 abv: 13.2% Price: $30 wild grass, the wine otherwise perfectly crisp and clean. —V.B. La Crema 2013 Pinot Gris (Monterey). Brisk Kendall-Jackson 2013 Vintner’s Reserve Ries- abv: 14.2% Price: $16 87 nectarine and just a touch of apple frame the 87 ling (Monterey County). Mildly sweet and soft-textured, it offers lots of honey and apple fla-

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vors. These are backed up by crisp, citrus-like acid- the ripeness and the finish lingers.Editors’ Choice. fruit. Very fresh, but challenging. Serve with spicy ity that adds balance and keeps the flavors lively all —J.G. foods. —M.K. the way through the finish. It’s very tasty and well- abv: 11.9% Price: $14 abv: 15.1% Price: $25 rounded. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 R2 2011 Vin Blancs (Santa Barbara County). 85 Honey and tuberose contribute to a power- ROSÉS Mirassou 2013 Riesling (California). Exuber- ful Orange Crush aroma on this Rhône white blend 85 ant fruit flavors animate this semisweet, of 48% Marsanne, 40% Rousanne and 12% Viog- Foxen 2013 Vogelzang Vineyard Rose of easy-to-like Riesling. The texture is smooth, the fla- nier. Potpourri and flower water carry the palate, 90 Mourvèdre (Happy Canyon of Santa Bar- vors are like ripe peach and pineapple and the body with a little slate and slight bitterness on the finish. bara). Bright bubblegum, chilled watermelon and is rather light. It’s sweet enough to go well with des- Serve with a strawberry-spinach salad. —M.K. strawberry-and-cream aromas weave into a beauti- sert. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $24 ful bouquet on this salmon-colored wine. The fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 vors are warm and dry but really flavorful, with red Barefoot Refresh NV White (California). This apples and papaya fruit perked up with a dash of 83 light wine feels bubbly in the mouth and lime juice. —M.K. WHITE BLENDS slightly sweet. It has mild pear and apple flavors, a abv: 12.8% Price: $25 soft texture and short finish. Could be a good one to Elyse 2012 L’Ingenue Naggiar Vineyard (Si- use as a substitute for Moscato. —J.G. Burnside Road 2013 Mid-Day Rosé (Dry Creek 91 erra Foothills). Distinctive and generous, this abv: 9% Price: $8 88 Valley). Made from Zinfandel, Primitivo, white Rhône-style wine is made from Sierra Foot- Petite Sirah and Pinot Noir, this salmon-colored hills grapes by a seasoned Napa winemaker. It tastes rosé is satisfying in apricot and pineapple fruit like vanilla, hazelnuts and pears, has a creamy tex- OTHER WHITE WINES tones, with an herbal finish and light body. —V.B. ture, feels layered with fruit and spice notes, and abv: 13.9% Price: $14 has good acidity balanced by richness of flavor. Wise Villa 2013 Estate Grown Torrontés (Si- —J.G. 90 erra Foothills). This exotic and memorable Dunstan 2013 Durell Vineyard Rosé (Sonoma abv: 14.4% Price: $32 white wine brings a floral, perfumed aroma, ripe 88 Coast). The only rosé made from Durell fruit flavors and a nicely viscous texture. Rather Vineyard, this one employs 100% Pinot Noir for a Vina Robles 2013 White4 (Paso Robles). For light in body for its richness level, it delivers a lin- subtle, light, dry wine that’s refreshing in strawber- 91 full review see page 9. gering finish. It has the generous texture of a Char- ry and peach. Having spent six months in neutral abv: 14.9% Price: $16 donnay but with more intense fruit flavors.Editors’ French oak, it’s structured and midweight, just right Choice. —J.G. for the table. —V.B. Caliza 2012 Kissin’ Cousins (Paso Robles). abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $25 88 Peach, honeyed limes and apple sauce aro- mas lead the nose of this blend made with 62% Vina Robles 2013 Huerhuero Albariño (Paso Kokomo 2013 Pauline’s Vineyard Grenache Viognier, 26% Grenache Blanc and 12% Rousanne. 89 Robles). For full review see page 13. 88 Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). Grenache’s essen- Caliza’s Carl Bowker demonstrates great restraint in abv: 14.5% Price: $18 tial fruity character is well-preserved thanks to the these often bombastic white Rhônes, so the apple- use of a whole berry press. Popcorn pink in color, led palate is subdued, showing bits of spice or a Longevity 2013 Pinot Blanc (Livermore Val- it offers sweetly peachy flavors adorned by wild touch of mustard on the end. —M.K. 88 ley). This wine is substantial enough for strawberry and tangerine. The wine light and min- abv: 14% Price: $28 rich fish dishes and other entrees. It smells and erally. —V.B. tastes like almonds and apricots and has a nicely abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Caliza 2012 Sidekick Roussanne-Viognier viscous texture. Full-bodied, it is complex, sophis- 88 (Paso Robles). An ever-so-slight astrin- ticated, dry and has a lingering finish. —J.G. Virage 2013 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (Napa gency greets the nose on this 60% Rousanne-40% abv: 14.8% Price: $24 88 Valley). A direct-pressed rosé, cotton-can- Viognier blend, with buttered apple and burned dy pink in color, this wine is dry, light and under lemon aromas most prevalent. Apple leads the very Ram’s Gate 2012 Estate Pinot Blanc (Carne- 13% alcohol. It offers touches of grass and herby even, almost subdued palate, perfect to pair with 88 ros). Aged in stainless steel for just about a minerality, faint swirls of white peach playful on the fruit salad to kick off a summer picnic. —M.K. year, this offers swirls of vanilla and lemon around tongue. Served chilled, this makes for a delightful abv: 14% Price: $28 richer crème brûlée, the wine viscous and lively in apéritif to go with oysters on the half shell. —V.B. acidity. A floral note of gardenia invites initially, abv: 12.9% Price: $26 Clos La Chance 2013 Hadley’s Cuvée Estate followed by a crisp, clean midpalate and dry, hefty 88 (Central Coast). Rounded aromas of melon, finish. —V.B. Muscardini 2013 Alice’s Vineyards Rosato di lemon, apple and a touch of passionfruit frame the abv: 14.7% Price: $38 87 Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). Ripe in straw- nose on this blend of 70% Viognier, 20% Grenache berry and pineapple and dark pinkish-orange in Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Good acidity wraps St. Supéry 2013 Estate Grown Moscato color, this is straightforward and dry. Smooth and flavors of honeydew, guava and smoked nectarine 88 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 13. tangy to drink, it’s accented in a citrus finish akin to drizzled in honey. —M.K. abv: 11% Price: $25 fresh-pressed juice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.2% Price: $24 Summerwood 2013 Grenache Blanc (Paso Rock Wall 2012 Rock Hound (California). 85 Robles). A wonderful nose of white flowers, Truett Hurst 2013 Salmon Run Zinfandel 88 Rich aromas like Anjou pears and rose pet- pear cider, honeydew, guava soda and papaya prom- 87 Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). Meaty, dry and bal- als combine with generous ripe pear and vanilla ises an interesting wine. Then bitterness takes hold anced yet big, this is a substantial mouthful of Rosé. flavors. It feels full-bodied but is light in alcohol of the palate, which is tense the entire time with Made from Dry Creek Zinfandel with 12% Syrah, and has a soothing texture. Good acidity balances lime and grapefruit pith dominating a little apple it’s brooding in dark berry and peach fruit and can

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 be paired much as a full-bodied red wine would be. Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Series V Kiona 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wash- —V.B. 93 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 90 ington). Though designated simply as abv: 15.4% Price: $18 (Red Mountain). Chris Gorman is the winemaker for Washington state, this five grape, Cab-dominated, this pure, old vine Cabernet Sauvignon. Despite the Bordeaux-style blend is sourced entirely from Ki- Joullian 2013 Estate Rosé of Zinfandel (Car- high alcohol and the use of 100% new French oak, ona’s Red Mountain vineyards. Aromatic—almost 84 mel Valley). A quite remarkable mauve-pink most of the old vine nuances are still there—a wild pungent—it’s built around soft, ripe red fruits, aug- in color, this offers faint cherry aromas. It’s nearly mix of heather and herb with berry and grain scents mented with a touch of leather and toast. Round, sweet on the palate, with strawberries and hard red that weave together in the mouth. Brambly and tart, full, and ready to drink, it spent a year in 60% new berry candy flavors. —M.K. with strawberry and cherry fruit, it’s a compelling oak. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 wine that keeps you on your toes. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $80 Mannina Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon WASHINGTON 90 (Walla Walla Valley). Of all the 2012 re- Kiona 2012 Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon leases from Mannina, this is the most dense, dark CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 (Red Mountain). For full review see page 4. and substantial. Cassis and black cherry fruit is set Editors’ Choice. against a stiff streak of char and coffee, backed with Woodward Canyon 2011 Old Vines Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $65 firm, ripe tannins. The length and balance are just 96 Sauvignon (Washington). For full review right for ripe fruit from young vines. —P.G. see page 3. Cellar Selection. Sparkman 2011 Kingpin Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 14.4% Price: $99 93 (Red Mountain). Principally Klipsun vine- yard fruit, this is a mass of black cherry and cassis, The Leader 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- Den Hoed 2010 Andreas Wallula Vineyards wreathed in smoke from aging in 80% new French 90 lumbia Valley). This is a new, value label 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). barrels. Great balance and length carry it through under the Barons umbrella, produced by consulting This classically styled, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon into drying tannins. A perfect steakhouse Cabernet. winemaker Matthew Loso. Lovely raspberry fruit brings vibrant notes of cherry pith, cassis, fresh —P.G. anchors the flavors, which are sleek and stylish and, herb, macerated cranberry, mineral and an under- abv: 14.1% Price: $62 show the craftsmanship of much more expensive tone of barrel spice. It’s densely packed with rich, vino. Dark notes of mineral and a whiff of graphite layered fruit flavors, firm, tightly wound tannins Arbor Crest 2012 Avansino Grand Reserve and iodine add complexity through a surprisingly and tart acids. A wine for the ages. Best from 2020– 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For long finish.Best Buy. —P.G. 2030. Cellar Selection. —S.S. full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Canoe Ridge 2011 Estate Grown Block 2 Cab- Woodward Canyon 2012 Artist Series #21 Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Series 89 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A mod- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). For full 92 Force Majeure Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon erately aromatic wine with notes of melted butter, review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. (Red Mountain). This is the second vintage release vanilla, plum, herbs and woodspice. The tannins are abv: 14.6% Price: $59 for the estate vineyard, which occupies the highest firm and tightly wound, needing some time to come planted portion of Red Mountain. Precise, sharp- together. Best after 2016. —S.S. Barons 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia edged, high-acid red-fruit flavors of berry and cher- abv: 13.7% Price: $47 93 Valley). Founded by a well-heeled group ry seem stacked vertically, with a strong mineral of wine afficionadoes, Barons has seen a change of underpinning. The alcohol is a bit high, but overall La Chanterelle 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ownership and a change in winemaking direction. the structure holds together and would support fur- 89 (Walla Walla Valley). Young, tight and For the first time, French oak has begun to supplant ther aging; drink now–2022. —P.G. sharp-toned upon first sniff, this broadens out and American oak as the barrels of choice. The wine is abv: 15.3% Price: $75 opens up with an hour or two of airing. The pin- aromatic, detailed and inviting, with the lower alco- point focus brings black raspberry, black cherry and hol prevalent in 2011. A rich mix of berry and cas- Arbor Crest 2012 Five Vineyards Cabernet Sau- light hints of tobacco into play. The 30% new oak sis dives deeply into the palate, with dark chocolate 91 vignon (Columbia Valley). There’s been no seems just right, although there is some burn in the highlights. The tannins are silky and polished, and price increase for this outstanding value, but the finish from the high alcohol. —P.G. the wine seems a sure bet to cellar well until the quality keeps going up and up. It’s packed with juicy abv: 15.1% Price: $38 mid-2020’s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. red berry and cassis fruit—supple, tangy, deep and abv: 14.1% Price: $45 lingering. The finish carries a suggestion of chalk, Swiftwater Cellars 2011 Reserve Cabernet more in the sense of minerality than any artificial 89 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This spent 18 Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard dryness. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. months in 100% new oak, though it does not over- 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This abv: 13.9% Price: $20 ride the pretty, cherry-candy fruit flavors. There’s a pure varietal wine showcases rich, ripe cherry pie suggestion of spun sugar as the wine trails off into a fruit backed up against a mineral-soaked base. Bak- Elevation Cellars 2010 Reserve Cabernet lightly chocolatey finish. —P.G. ing spice highlights and a streak of caramel reflect 90 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is pure abv: 14.1% Price: $85 aging in 100% new French oak. Acids and tannins Cabernet Sauvignon from the Stillwater vineyard, are proportionate and substantial. —P.G. ripe and loaded with dark fruits. There’s a strong Boomtown 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15% Price: $50 element of char, smoke and roasted espresso run- 88 (Washington). Fruity and slightly sweet, ning through the finish. Tannins are silky, but the this forward, juicy wine is simple but tasty. It’s Double Canyon 2012 Double Canyon Vineyard flavors are right on the edge of burnt. Drink this ready to drink right away, preferably with roasted 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). with a juicy, charcoal-grilled steak and it will hit poultry with a tart black fruit sauce. —P.G. For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. the bulls-eye. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

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Columbia Crest 2012 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon flavors, with the concentration not seeming entirely Apex 2011 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). The 88 (Horse Heaven Hills). Varietal notes of cher- there. —S.S. 89 aromas of roasted coffee bean, chocolate, ry, black currant and dried herbs accented by bar- abv: 13.3% Price: $24 and dark raspberry are light, while the palate is el- rel notes of milk chocolate and vanilla. It’s medium egant in style with a good sense of balance and a bodied, showing some grit to the tannins. —S.S. Chateau Rollat 2010 Rollat Cabernet Sau- lingering finish. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 86 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). Not up to abv: 14.7% Price: $30 previous standards, despite the excellent vineyard Ross Andrew 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- sources of Seven Hills and Pepperbridge. This tilts Columbia Crest 2012 H3 Merlot (Horse Heav- 88 lumbia Valley). Light in color with notes of strongly toward the stemmy, herbal side of Caber- 89 en Hills). Nearly 100% Merlot with just a dusty plum, chocolate and spice. The palate is on net, with little in the way of fruit. Tannins are soft pinch of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, it brings the lighter side of medium bodied with abundant but turn bitter through the short finish. —P.G. an assortment of red fruit notes along with plum, cherry flavors and chalky, firm tannins that need abv: 14.5% Price: $32 milk chocolate and coffee. The barrel flavors play a time to unwind. Best after 2016. —S.S. big part in the show with the tannins giving a lightly abv: 13.9% Price: $42 chalky feel. —S.S. MERLOT abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Chateau Rollat 2010 Edouard de Rollat Cab- 87 ernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Light Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Mannina Cellars 2012 Merlot (Walla Walla and muted, with sharp, leafy and herbal flavors. It 92 Merlot (Red Mountain). Though the alcohol 89 Valley). Soft and pretty, this estate grown seems to be drying out, leaving an impression of is on the high side, this vineyard ripens the fruit wine offers plum and cherry fruit, with notes of ce- mushrooms rather than fruit. Drink now. —P.G. well enough to sustain varietal character without dar and smoke from aging in one third new French abv: 14.4% Price: $62 the veil of heavy new oak. Here it’s 50% neutral, and Hungarian oak. The structure rests on stiff but 50% new, yielding rich strawberry andcherry fla- proportionate tannins, giving good balance and me- NxNW 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia vors with a stiff, mineral streak. —P.G. dium length. Drink now through 2020. —P.G. 87 Valley). Sourced from vineyards in the Horse abv: 15.5% Price: $39 abv: 13.8% Price: $22 Heaven Hills and Walla Walla AVAs, this Cabernet- dominated blend includes small amounts of Merlot, Matteo 2010 Red (Columbia Valley). Pure Waterbrook 2011 Reserve Merlot (Columbia Malbec and Petit Verdot. Herbal, tart, and loaded 92 Merlot from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard, 89 Valley). This is an aromatically appealing with juicy, snappy acidity, it shows primary sour this finished its fermentation in concrete egg, then wine with notes of cocoa, coffee, cherry and wood- raspberry and cherry. Hints of ground coffee and spent 20 months in 100% new French oak, and an- spice. It’s full bodied with a lot of richness to the green herb come through in the finish. —P.G. other two years in bottle prior to release. Tightly tart cherry flavors that need some time to settle in. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 wound and dense with cherry and chocolate layered —S.S. throughout, it brings in flavors of red licorice and abv: 13.5% Price: $24 NxNW 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla baking spices. The tannins are silky and the struc- 87 Valley). Seven Hills and Les Collines provide ture and flavors are bold.Cellar Selection. —P.G. Browne Family Vineyards 2011 Merlot (Co- the grapes for this 80-20 Cab-Merlot blend. The abv: 14.2% Price: $140 87 lumbia Valley). The oak—52% new French— cool 2011 vintage was especially noticeable in Wal- gets out in front of the fruit with notes of cocoa la Walla—here expressed as light strawberry and Woodward Canyon 2011 Merlot (Columbia powder and woodspice overpowering herbs and red cranberry fruit, caught in a shell of acid. The wine 92 Valley). Plush and dusty, this splendid Mer- fruit. The palate is elegant in style, with barrel notes ultimately turns tannic, with light barrel flavors of lot offers unusual depth and texture, even for Wash- carrying through on the finish. —S.S. caramel and mocha. More bottle age may help to ington versions of the much-maligned grape. Along abv: 13.6% Price: $37 further meld the components. —P.G. with black cherry fruit come highlights of herb and abv: 14.1% Price: $40 olive, spicy oak and rich earth. The density and de- Bergevin Lane 2011 Wild Child Merlot (Wah- tail carry through a long finish.Cellar Selection. 86 luke Slope). This wine doesn’t seem entire- Ross Andrew 2012 Glaze Cabernet Sauvignon —P.G. ly finished with notes of blueberry, char and barrel 87 (Columbia Valley). An appealing wine with abv: 14.3% Price: $52 spice that haven’t fully melded. It’s medium bodied notes of milk chocolate, plum and dried herbs. The with coffee and vanilla flavors backed by astringent new French oak is dialed back and the tannins are Arbor Crest 2012 Four Vineyards Merlot (Co- tannins, finishing on a sharply bitter note. —S.S. soft and plump, helping it go down easy. —S.S. 91 lumbia Valley). A sensational value, the abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 13.8% Price: $17 grapes come from top vineyards that generally command high prices. Tobacco and cherry scents Boomtown 2012 Merlot (Washington). Prin- Waterbrook 2012 Icon Reserve Cabernet roll smoothly into a rich, dense palate loaded with 86 cipally Merlot, with smaller amounts of 87 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A moderately , crème de cassis and framboise flavors. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, this shows plen- aromatic wine with notes of green herb, citrus and fruit is concentrated, sappy and deep. Editors’ tiful blackberry fruit, along with sugary flavors of cherry. It’s medium bodied with chalky tannins and Choice. —P.G. molasses and brown sugar. —P.G. abundant mocha flavors with the concentration abv: 13.8% Price: $18 abv: 14.6% Price: $19 seeming a bit lacking. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 Canoe Ridge 2011 Estate Grown Blocks 14 & 90 11 Merlot (Columbia Valley). An aromatic MALBEC Waterbrook 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- and fruit filled wine with notes of cherry cordial, 87 gnon (Columbia Valley). Coming from the raspberry, herb and barrel accents. It has sweet Sparkman 2012 Preposterous Malbec (Red cool 2011 vintage, this wine clocks in at 13.3% al- cherry flavors with firm tannins and well balanced 93 Mountain). Pure Malbec from the Klipsun cohol—low by Washington’s recent standards. The acidity. Best after 2017. —S.S. vineyard, this is a sappy, concentrated wine with notes of herbs, coffee and vanilla are light and elu- abv: 13.8% Price: $47 gorgeous raspberry and blackberry fruit supported sive with an elegant styling to the tart, tangy cherry by a streak of iron and a whiff of dark chocolate. It

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 saw 30% new oak and should drink well over the oak, it shows appealing notes of dried herbs, rasp- Mannina Cellars 2012 Syrah (Walla Walla next decade. —P.G. berry and cherry. The palate is fruit focused with a 90 Valley). Only two acres of Syrah are planted abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abundant sweet raspberry flavors that linger on the at the estate vineyard, which is a shame, as this finish. —S.S. makes you wish for much more. Just in its 4th leaf, Kiona 2012 Estate Malbec (Red Mountain). abv: 13.3% Price: $26 the vines are already producing fruit with clear and 91 A wine club selection, this pure Malbec is complex varietal character. Bacon fat, smoke, lico- fragrant and streaked with well-defined layers of rice and a floral lift all come through on the nose. blackberry, dark chocolate and earth. There’s a SYRAH These flavors follow to a medium-bodied palate pleasing whiff of sandalwood and baking spice that with proportionate structure and some persistence carries through to the finish. —P.G. Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard through the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 94 Syrah (Red Mountain). For full review see abv: 14.5% Price: $32 page 3. Editors’ Choice. Savage Grace 2013 Dineen Vineyard Malbec abv: 15.5% Price: $39 Swiftwater Cellars 2011 Syrah (Columbia 91 (Rattlesnake Hills). Coming in at 12.8% al- 90 Valley). A palate-pleasing mix of juicy boy- cohol—nearly unheard of for a Washington red, Sparkman 2012 Ruckus Syrah (Red Moun- senberry fruit, red licorice and bright spice, this particularly in a warm vintage—it brings appealing 94 tain). Sourced from Klipsun and Ciel du quickly comes into focus. Concentrated and mouth- notes of dark plum accented by black pepper and Cheval, this was co-fermented with 7% Boushey filling, it’s a straightforward Syrah with an empha- dried herbs. It’s silky soft in feel with a dazzling Vineyard Viognier. It’s a bright, punchy wine with sis on fruit rather than funk. —P.G. sense of texture and purity with little apparent oak berries, spice, some ginger cake complexity, and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 influence. —S.S. plenty of juicy acidity. The length of the finish is es- abv: 12.8% Price: $27 pecially noteworthy. —P.G. Dunham 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $48 89 Syrah shows different aspects in cooler vin- Swiftwater Cellars 2011 Malbec (Columbia tages such as 2011, which has brought out the leafy, 89 Valley). This wine gives a clear, clean shot Kerloo 2012 Upland Vineyards Syrah (Snipes herbal and peppery notes in full force. However this of pure raspberry fruit, lightly dusted with coffee 92 Mountain). This is an aromatic wine con- wine is ripe enough to offer plenty of good flavor, and cocoa. A whiff of smoke drifts across the finish taining 8% Viognier, with perfumed notes of flow- with brambly berry fruit that sings out for thin- as the wine quickly thins out. —P.G. ers and orange peel along with wet gravel, plum and crusted pizza. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 smoked meat. The blue fruit flavors are intense and abv: 13.8% Price: $35 pure, backed by a squeeze of chalky tannins. Best McKinley Springs 2010 Malbec (Horse Heav- after 2016. —S.S. Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Series II 88 en Hills). On first pour this wine seems abv: 13.8% Price: $40 89 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah (Red Moun- slightly reduced, after which it shows notes of bak- tain). This is relatively light for Red Mountain Syr- ing spices and plum. It’s medium bodied and plush Sparkman 2012 Darkness Syrah (Yakima Val- ah—silky and tart with accents of orange peel and in feel with silky smooth tannins, but the concen- 92 ley). One of two Sparkman Syrahs, Dark- lemony acidity. The tight, tangy berry fruit shows a tration seems wanting. —S.S. ness showcases fruit from two stellar Yakima val- streak of chocolate, from time in 30% new French abv: 13.9% Price: $24 ley vineyards, Boushey and Olsen. A whiff of Syrah oak, and despite the cool vintage it finishes with funk, herb and earth ties into dried blueberry with some heat. —P.G. Waterbrook 2011 Reserve Malbec (Columbia a brambly, plummy component. Lovely details of abv: 14.3% Price: $58 87 Valley). Though only seeing about a quarter nutmeg with a streak of vanilla keep the flavors in- new oak—mostly American—it’s this aspect that teresting through a long finish. —P.G. Boomtown 2012 Syrah (Washington). This stands out with notes of vanilla and woodspice abv: 14.5% Price: $62 88 ready to drink wine seems tailor-made which overpower notes of cherry, plum and pepper. for many—loaded with blueberry fruit, it’s a soft, Still, it’s pleasant enough with quite tart fruit fla- Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard smooth, easy-drinking style. The rich streaks of vors and abundant wood accents. —S.S. 90 Reserve Syrah Syrah (Red Mountain). This vanilla and milk chocolate keep it satisfying to the abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Syrah was aged in 100% new oak, two thirds Amer- very end. —P.G. ican and one third French. Barrel flavors abound, abv: 14.1% Price: $19 especially vanilla, and the fruit seems a bit over- CABERNET FRANC shadowed at this point in time. The tannins are ag- NxNW 2012 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This gressive, and overall this young wine seems to need 88 is pure Syrah, sourced from Les Collines in Woodward Canyon 2011 Estate Reserve Cab- more time in bottle to smooth out. —P.G. Walla Walla and the Benches in the Horse Heaven 94 ernet Franc-Petit Verdot (Walla Walla Val- abv: 15.5% Price: $55 Hills. Tart berry and red plum fruit anchors it with ley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. sharp acidity. The fruit core has not quite melded abv: 14.5% Price: $79 Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Series III with the barrel flavors of caramel and chocolate— 90 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah (Red Moun- give it another couple of years in bottle before pop- Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard tain). The second Syrah in the Collaboration Series, ping the cork. —P.G. 92 Cabernet Franc (Red Mountain). Just under this was aged in 30% new puncheons, and opens abv: 13.9% Price: $30 16% alcohol, this nonetheless displays lush and with a potent, roasted nose. Espresso and cacao fla- pure flavors of blueberry and black cherry, dusted vors dominate the tart, acidic berry fruit, with a lick La Chanterelle 2012 Syrah (Wahluke Slope). with cinnamon and sandalwood. The concentration of lemon verbena running through the finish. —P.G. 87 New oak takes the lead on the nose of this is exceptional. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $60 wine, with notes of vanilla and toffee followed by abv: 15.8% Price: $39 cranberry and cherry. It’s high octane, with a con- Kiona 2012 Syrah (Red Mountain). For full centrated cherry flavor and alcoholic warmth. —S.S. Savage Grace 2013 Copeland Vineyard Cab- 90 review see page 9. abv: 15.6% Price: $42 90 ernet Franc (Rattlesnake Hills). Whole abv: 14.4% Price: $25 berry fermented and aged seven months in neutral

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NxNW 2011 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). ripe, and with a bit more bottle age those subtle fla- flavors, plentiful acidity and moderate, balanced 86 Showing the thinness that affected some vors may reappear. —P.G. tannins. Drink now through 2020. —P.G. fruit from this vintage, this has a strong flavor of abv: 15.4% Price: $60 abv: 14.1% Price: $29 pomegranate juice, with a dash of chocolate. A quaf- fable Syrah, but not one to cellar. —P.G. Den Hoed 2010 Marie’s View Wallula Vineyards Mannina Cellars 2012 Cali Red(Walla Walla abv: 13.9% Price: $35 91 (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of five different 89 Valley). All estate grown, this blend is varieties with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah mak- roughly half and half Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- ing up 70% of the mix, it brings intriguing notes of lot, with a splash of Sangiovese. Dark and fruity, it RED BLENDS cranberry, raspberry jam and fruit leather. The pal- opens generously with flavors of black cherry, cassis ate is full bodied with rich dried cherry flavors and and a hint of cola, finishing with lick of dark choco- Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Series I firm tannins that need time in the cellar to soften. late. A mix of French, Hungarian and American 94 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Mountain). —S.S. oak—24% new—was used. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Red Mountain vintner Ben Smith makes this Bor- abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 deaux-style blend which is always at the top of the lineup for this Collaboration Series. This is a tooth- Milbrandt 2011 Sentinel Northridge Vineyard Sparkman 2012 Kindred (Columbia Valley). stainer—dense and layered—with dark fruit flavors 91 Red Wine (Wahluke Slope). For full review see 89 Fruity and dark, this Bordeaux-style blend of boysenberry, black cherry and cassis. Smoke and page 8. is two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one third a underbrush with a hint of soft leather and perfectly abv: 14.5% Price: $55 mix of the four other grapes. The result is a wine ripe tannins keep it moving through a long finish. with stiff tannins and excellent structure, with Put this one away a few years, and drink from 2018– Sparkman 2011 Ruby Leigh (Yakima Valley). clean dark-fruit and forest-floor flavors alongside 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 91 This is a Merlot-based blend, tightly wound, streaks of iron and caramel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 with tart berry fruit flavors. It gathers and concen- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 trates into a dense, fruit-laden finish, streaked with Force Majeure 2011 Collaboration Series VI espresso and dark chocolate. Though labeled simply Apex 2012 The Catalyst (Horse Heaven 93 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red Mountain). Pro- Yakima Valley, it’s all Red Mountain fruit, mostly 88 Hills). A little over half Syrah with a balance duced for Force Majeure by Syncline’s James Man- from Klipsun. —P.G. of Merlot, barrel fermented in French and Ameri- tone, this riveting wine is a blend of 47% Mourvè- abv: 13.9% Price: $48 can oak—20% new—it shows notes of clove, dusty dre, 42% Syrah and 11% Grenache. Lush and spice, and blackberry. The palate is medium bodied redolent with wild berry and wet rock aromatics, 14 Hands 2011 The Reserve (Horse Heaven and flavorful with slightly astringent tannins with it carries a thread of sweet grain along with bright, 90 Hills). Near equal parts Cabernet Sauvi- tart cherry and cranberry notes on the finish. —S.S. detailed berry fruit and balancing acidity. Delicious gnon, Merlot and Malbec with a healthy dash of abv: 13.95% Price: $15 already, it can be enjoyed now through 2020. Edi- Petit Verdot providing the frame, it displays notes tors’ Choice. —P.G. of toast, coffee, chocolate, plum and woodspice with Brian Carter Cellars 2012 Abracadabra (Co- abv: 14.7% Price: $58 abundant blue fruit and coffee flavors. —S.S. 88 lumbia Valley). An all time high of a dozen abv: 14.5% Price: $30 different grapes are involved in this red blend, yet Sparkman 2011 Stella Mae (Yakima Valley). veteran winemaker Brian Carter wrangles them all 93 The sister wine to Ruby Leigh, this Caber- Dunham 2012 Three Legged (Washington). into a lovely, fruit-powered, consistent style. Name net-based blend is sourced principally from Red 90 A blend of Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot, it’s your berry—it’s in there somewhere, along with Mountain vineyards. It opens with scents of violets sappy and loaded with tart red fruits. An explosion Bing cherries and a dash of spice. —P.G. and moves into a firm palate mixing cassis, herb and of strawberries and raspberries washes across the abv: 14% Price: $15 iron shavings. Excellent structure cellaring through tongue, resolving in pretty cherry flavors buoyed 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G. by natural acidity. Forward and full bodied, it’s has Gifford Hirlinger 2012 Stateline (Walla Walla abv: 14.2% Price: $48 enough structure to age gracefully over the next five 88 Valley). Assembled from the same lots as years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. the winery’s more expensive varietal wines, this Kiona 2012 Estate Bottled Reserve (Red abv: 13.8% Price: $19 high-powered, Bordeaux-style blend is one of Walla 92 Mountain). For full review see page 6. Walla’s best values. Big and bursting with dark- abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Elevation Cellars 2011 Jammin’ Red Blend fruit flavors of fig, black cherry and cassis, the bar- 90 (Columbia Valley). This blend of 50% rel aging adds espresso and chocolate in generous Columbia Crest 2012 H3 Les Chevaux Red Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 19% Cab Franc amounts. There’s noticeable heat on the finish, but 91 Blend (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review and 10% Petit Verdot is sourced from the Hedges, no lack of potent flavor.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. see page 13. Best Buy. Stillwater, and Conner Lee vineyards. At first soft abv: 15.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 and smooth, it morphs into a textural wine with a mouthful of purple and black fruits—from black- Swiftwater Cellars 2010 Proprietary Red (Co- Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard berry on through cassis. Streaks of smoke, graphite 88 lumbia Valley). This five-grape, Bordeaux- 91 Flagship Reserve (Red Mountain). The blend and espresso highlight the finish.Editors’ Choice. style blend is principally Cabernet Sauvignon, and is 50% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% —P.G. offers forward, moderately light fruit flavors of Cabernet Franc, aged in 100% new French oak. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 strawberry and cherry. It’s balanced and pleasant The only wine from this producer that is a blend, tasting, though lacking the depth that you might it currently shows an abundance of barrel flavors. Dunham 2011 Trutina (Columbia Valley). A wish for in this price range. —P.G. The baking spices overpower some of the signature 89 blend of 57% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 elements that this distinguished vineyard imparts— vignon and 6% Syrah, this opens with a sweetly the mineral, saline, iron and steel notes often found spiced bouquet of red and purple fruits. The me- in Ciel’s red wines. The fruit remains gorgeously dium weight midpalate brings tart plum and cherry

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 It’s medium bodied with a thick, textured feel show- OTHER RED WINES ROSÉS ing good weight and intensity to the fruit flavors along with well balanced acidity. A uniquely styled Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Columbia Winery 2013 Grenache Rosé (Horse wine without an easy comparison in the region. Edi- 94 (Red Mountain). Nebbiolo does 89 Heaven Hills). For full review see page 11. tors’ Choice. —S.S. not adapt easily to anywhere outside of its home abv: 13.9% Price: $24 abv: 13.7% Price: $26 turf in Italy. Somehow, the obstacles have been transcended here, and the results are—well—tran- Beresan 2013 Sangiovese Rosé (Walla Walla Array 2011 Chardonnay (Washington). Full- scendent. A riveting, astonishing wine with depth, 88 Valley). Made from Pepper Bridge vineyard 90 bodied and flavorful, this four vineyard cu- tar, tannin and texture, all under powerfully ripe, grapes, this is a pleasantly quaffable rosé, with pret- vée may be characterized as buttered popcorn meets almost jammy cherry fruit. Despite the high alcohol, ty strawberry fruit flavors just on the edge of candy. golden apple and toasted nuts. You can ride with it retains the details that give Nebbiolo the ability to It’s quite refreshing with crisp acidity and a clean that posse all the way through the medium-length, improve with age. Drink now through 2025. Cellar finish. —P.G. well-balanced and clean finish. —P.G. Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $16 abv: 13.7% Price: $25 abv: 15.3% Price: $50 Boomtown 2013 Chardonnay (Washington). Côtes de Ciel 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard CHARDONNAY 90 This well-built wine shows just the barest 93 Petit Verdot (Red Mountain). Pure Petit Ver- hint of barrel from fermentation and aging in neu- dot from Red Mountain’s quintessential Bordeaux Array 2011 Conner Lee Chardonnay (Columbia tral oak which seems to have rounded out the fruit varietal vineyard—does it get any better? Big, deep 92 Valley). Big points for subtlety, length and and put some polish on the mouthfeel. Flavors are and tannic, with lovely purity, this features ultrar- elegance here—this is not a wine that will blow you a tasty mix of lemon curd, honeysuckle, apple and ipe fig and plum fruit with a pleasing salinity. The away at first sniff. Stay with it and it stays with you; peach, lightly spiced. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. finish is persistent and shows a streak of iron. Note opening sharp-edged, pungent and slightly grassy, abv: 12.9% Price: $19 the alcohol is pushing 16% however it is beautifully then developing a tightly focused midpalate with integrated. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. pure lime and apple fruit flavors. Accents of mus- Columbia Crest 2013 Reserve Estate Uno- abv: 15.8% Price: $39 tard greens and white pepper come in as a long, 88 aked Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). Fer- delicate yet detailed finish slowly unfolds.Cellar mented in concrete and aged sur lie for five months, Sineann 2012 Champoux Vineyard Petit Ver- Selection. —P.G. it brings notes of pear and pineapple with mineral 91 dot (Columbia Valley). From the acclaimed abv: 13.8% Price: $32 accents. The palate is lighter in style with a supple Champoux vineyard, this puts the purple fruit in a feel, finishing a bit short. —S.S. wrap of pretty baking spices. Barrel aging adds co- Array 2011 Dijon Clone Chardonnay (Yakima abv: 14.5% Price: $24 coa and coffee, while the acidity is sufficient to keep 92 Valley). Sourced entirely from the Otis Har- the wine from feeling too tannic. Another couple of lan vineyard, these vines were planted about 25 Dunham 2013 Shirley Mays Chardonnay (Co- years of bottle age—or brisk decanting—should put years ago. It’s a pleasure to see them singled out for 88 lumbia Valley). Young and yeasty, this new it at its peak. —P.G. this showcase bottling—a rich, oily, nutty, buttery vintage will benefit from additional time in bottle. abv: 14.4% Price: $36 style to be sure—but one that is also dense with ripe The light apple and pear fruit is dusted with a hint apple, pear and peach fruit. The acidity buoys it up of cinnamon. A brief stint in French oak—roughly Kiona 2012 Estate Bottled Lemberger (Red throughout a strong, long finish. —P.G. 40%—shows a pleasant hint of toast. —P.G. 90 Mountain). For full review see page 14. Best abv: 13.5% Price: $32 abv: 13.3% Price: $25 Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Woodward Canyon 2012 Celilo Vineyard Char- Milbrandt 2013 The Estates Chardonnay 92 donnay (Columbia Gorge). This single vine- 88 (Ancient Lakes). On first pour it is the oak Browne Family Vineyards 2011 Petit Verdot yard wine shows both the warmth of the vintage and —25% new French—that leads with prominent 88 (Columbia Valley). A blend of Canyon Vine- the coolness of this site, showing depth and rich- notes of vanilla, but as it opens up these recede yard Ranch and Summit View vineyards, it shows ness to the fruit flavors while retaining good acidity. to reveal baked apple, butterscotch and pear. It’s appealing notes of vanilla, clove, flowers and cocoa. It brings notes of apple, peach and lees with light creamy and almost unctuous in feel with the sweet- It’s a big, burly mouthful of a wine with firm, slight- barrel accents—20% new French—and a creamy ness of the fruit giving the suggestion of residual ly dry tannins that need some time to settle in. Best feel. Enjoy with shrimp stir fried in olive oil for a sugar. —S.S. after 2016. —S.S. pairing nirvana. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.8% Price: $32 abv: 14.3% Price: $66 Waterbrook 2013 Chardonnay (Columbia Mannina Cellars 2012 Sangiovese (Walla Array 2010 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). 88 Valley). With 4% Viognier giving this wine 88 Walla Valley). Sangiovese is still rather rare 91 This was the first release from this new, a distinct floral lift, it’s aromatic with notes of nec- in the Walla Walla Valley, but if this is any indica- Chardonnay-only project. With its mix of Colum- tarine, pear and toasty barrel spice. It’s creamy, al- tion of the potential, it should become a distinctive bia Gorge, Ancient Lakes and Columbia Valley most oily in feel, with an assortment of stone fruit and valued variety as the vines mature. Lovely aro- fruit, it immediately set a high standard. Scents flavors that carry through the finish.Best Buy. matics of berry, spice, cedar and toast wrap into a of orange blossom, mineral oil and toasted pecan —S.S. pretty wine with flavors of light cherry, ash and a mingle gracefully, and in the mouth there is a steely abv: 13.4% Price: $12 suggestion of underlying minerality. —P.G. edge that provides structural support. Drink now abv: 13.7% Price: $22 through 2018. —P.G. Charles & Charles 2013 Chardonnay (Colum- abv: 13.8% Price: $25 87 bia Valley). Screwcapped, fresh and racy, this seemingly all-stainless Chardonnay is a total Savage Grace 2013 Celilo Vineyard Chardon- lemon fest. Ripe and flavorful—not sour—it brings 91 nay (Columbia Gorge). A lightly aromatic scents and tastes of lemon oil, lemon peel and lem- wine with notes of lees, apple, mineral and spice.

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on meringue into play. It’s medium-bodied, forward bodied and drinks dry with a lot of hang time on the and generous. Best Buy. —P.G. SAUVIGNON BLANC pronounced, floral finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $12 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 Woodward Canyon 2013 Estate Sauvignon 91 Blanc (Walla Walla Valley). From vines now Kiona 2013 (Columbia Valley). RIESLING a dozen years old, this unusual Walla Walla AVA 91 It’s listed on the back label as off dry, and Sauvignon Blanc is a brilliant straw color—aromat- in fact has 11 g/L of residual sugar, but it boasts a Sparkman 2013 Birdie Riesling (Columbia ic with light scents of ripe grain and tangy fruits, certain roundness and fruit persistence. Though la- 94 Valley). Once again the Bacchus Vineyard and fills the mouth with delicious flavors of melon, beled Columbia Valley, in fact it’s 100% estate (Red provided the fruit for this wine, with 20% fermented white peach, lemon verbena and a dash of pepper. Mountain) fruit, and old vine—30+ years—to boot. in neutral oak. It’s lightly spritzy and immensely re- Complex and engaging, it finishes dry but leaves It’s well-crafted, with a mix of citrus—flesh and freshing. Orange peel, apple, fig and pear fruit flavors an impression of slight sweetness. Drink it slightly rind—plenty of backing acidity and a thoroughly re- are accented by a hint of toasted coconut. There’s also chilled. —P.G. freshing finish.Best Buy. —P.G. some beeswax in the mix, and the length of the finish abv: 14.1% Price: $26 abv: 12.8% Price: $15 is superb. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18 Sparkman 2013 Pearl Sauvignon Blanc (Co- Beresan 2013 DeVine (Walla Walla Valley). A 88 lumbia Valley). An unusual version of Pearl, 90 southern Rhone-style blend of Roussanne, Savage Grace 2013 Underwood Mountain this includes 9% Grenache Blanc and 5% Rous- Marsanne and Viognier, only 20% was aged in 92 Riesling (Columbia Gorge). An aromatically sanne in the blend. Though it’s labeled Sauvignon oak. Bright, aromatic, and fleshy on the palate, and vibrant wine with notes of slate, peach, apricot and Blanc, those other grapes seem to command center showing an array of cucumber, green leaf, lemon oil, citrus. It drinks off dry, with exquisitely balanced stage, and the wine might as well be thought of as pineapple and citrus notes, this impressive white acidity and a lot of depth and richness to the fruit a creative white blend rather than a single variety. blend hits just the right notes for lighter dishes with flavors. Impressive stuff.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Pungent and herbal, it has well-knit and balanced an herbal dressing. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $21 green and yellow fruit flavors, with notes of caraway abv: 14.1% Price: $16 seed and grass. —P.G. Elevation Cellars 2013 Imperium Riesling (Co- abv: 13.8% Price: $22 Ross Andrew 2013 Pinot Gris (Columbia Val- 91 lumbia Valley). Sourced from the excellent 89 ley). An aromatically appealing wine with Lawrence Vineyard, this checks out as dry on the Waterbrook 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum- notes of star fruit, pear, citrus and mineral. It drinks official Riesling scale, posted on the back label. It’s 86 bia Valley). A blend of Oasis and Sagemoor just a hair off dry, with rich fruit flavors and a lin- yeasty and rich in the mouth, with lightly honeyed vineyards aged in stainless steel, this wine shows gering finish that keep you coming back for more. fruit flavors of lemon curd, candied orange peel, key the warmth of the vintage with notes of tropical —S.S. lime and guava. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. fruit, grass and melon. It drinks a touch off dry, with abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 13.3% Price: $17 the concentration a bit lacking but pineapple flavors pull it together on the finish. —S.S. Milbrandt 2013 The Estates Viognier (Wah- Dunham 2013 Lewis Estate Vineyard Ries- abv: 12.4% Price: $12 88 luke Slope). An aromatic wine with notes of 88 ling (Columbia Valley). Strong citrus fruit creamsicle and orange blossom. It’s medium bodied flavors come through in this surprisingly tart and with well delineated stone fruit flavors and a lick acidic wine. Given its low alcohol, one might ex- OTHER WHITE WINES of tart acidity that seems surprising for the variety pect more sweetness, but here the juicy fruit sings and vintage. —S.S. of lemon, orange and pineapple. No reason this Force Majeure 2012 Collaboration Series abv: 13.5% Price: $22 couldn’t work nicely with fresh-shucked oysters. 92 Viognier (Red Mountain). Winemaker Mark —P.G. McNeilly from Mark Ryan Winery makes this estate Waterbrook 2013 Pinot Gris (Columbia Val- abv: 11% Price: $20 grown Viognier, and works it in the same strong, 87 ley). This is an aromatic offering with notes substantial, concentrated style as his own release. of pineapple, kiwi and pear. It drinks toward me- Swiftwater Cellars 2013 No. 9 Riesling (Co- The mix of concrete and neutral oak fermentation dium sweet—9 g/L residual sugar—with abundant 88 lumbia Valley). Quince, starfruit and white brings out some nice floral highlights and a light tropical flavors that help it go down easy.Best Buy. melon share the spotlight here, with acidity and hint of toast. The length and flavor development —S.S. sugar in balance, yielding a slightly off-dry wine. through the long finish are exceptional.Editors’ abv: 12.8% Price: $12 Forward and fresh, it brings in highlights of lemon Choice. —P.G. tea as it sails across the palate, and could do nicely abv: 14.1% Price: $35 for a lunch of cold whitefish or trout. —P.G. SWEET WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Matteo 2013 Red Mountain White Wine (Red 92 Mountain). This is pure Chenin Blanc from Kiona 2013 Late Harvest Riesling (Columbia Waterbrook 2013 Reserve Riesling (Colum- Kiona’s 1976 planting, fermented in concrete eggs 92 Valley). A stellar wine at Kiona for decades, 87 bia Valley). A vibrantly aromatic wine with and left on the lees for five months. A pretty golden this includes 11% Gewürztraminer in the blend, notes of apricot, tangerine and white flower. It hue, this bone dry wine did not undergo malolac- and is finished at 83 g/L residual sugar. The pal- drinks medium sweet with abundant jasmine and tic and has retained its sturdy acid base. Rich with ate impression is more juicy than sweet, with rich stone fruit notes that linger on the finish.Best Buy. glycerine, it’s scented with and has flavors of lemon fruit flavors of ripe grapefruit, peach and apricot. —S.S. oil, orange peel and candied pineapple. —P.G. The balance, acidity, length and texture are spot on. abv: 11.9% Price: $12 abv: 13.6% Price: $50 Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 9.9% Price: $15 Dowsett Family 2013 Celilo Vineyard Gewürz- 91 traminer (Columbia Gorge). A vibrantly aro- Brian Carter Cellars 2011 Opulento Dessert matic, dazzling wine with abundant notes of lychee 91 Wine (Yakima Valley). Opulento is done and rose petal. It’s on the lighter side of medium entirely with Portuguese varieties. Quite young,

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 grapey, rich and supple, it’s packed with primary, is moderately long, with delicate, lingering tannins. Knapp 2012 Merlot (Finger Lakes). Crisp red brambly blackberry fruit with a smooth, chocolatey —A.I. 85 cherry and berry notes on the nose become finish. This should age well for at least a decade. abv: 13.6% Price: $43 increasingly ruddy and ripe on the palate of this Cellar Selection. —P.G. soft, medium-bodied Merlot. It’s pleasantly juicy, abv: 19% Price: $19/375 ml Fox Run 2012 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Sen- but whiffs of ramp and dried savory herbs are a dis- 88 eca Lake). Tart red cherries mingle with tracting contrast. —A.I. Frost Bitten 2013 Ice Riesling (Yakima Val- notes of warm toast, cedar and menthol in this bold, abv: 12.5% Price: $17 90 ley). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. richly bodied Cabernet Franc. Bright cranberry abv: 10.2% Price: $13/375 ml notes cut through the midpalate, which is fringed by fine grained tannins, leading to a lingering hint CABERNET SAUVIGNON of savory umami on the finish. —A.I. NEW YORK abv: 13.1% Price: $45 Billsboro 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger 88 Lakes). Fresh, herbaceous green notes waft PINOT NOIR Knapp 2012 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). from nose to finish on this elegantly balanced Cab- 88 There’s a lingering vein of crushed granite ernet Sauvignon. Succulent, ripe plums and cher- Billsboro 2012 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). that persists throughout this bright, invigorating ries add suppleness and body, but it’s kept in check 90 Notes of violet, preserved plums and cher- Cabernet Franc. Tart red cherry and cranberry fla- by brisk acidity and a lingering mineral finish. —A.I. ries persist throughout this lush, concentrated Pi- vors are deep and concentrated on the palate, and abv: 13% Price: $28 not Noir. It’s medium-bodied in style, with crisp lead to a fringe of delicate tannins on the finish. acidity, yet the palate seems to build in richness —A.I. Knapp 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger and body. The finish brings elegant, fine-grained abv: 12.5% Price: $17 88 Lakes). Ripe, rich black cherries and berries tannins. —A.I. are accented by layers crushed stone on this elegant abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2010 Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh fruit concentrates the 86 Franc (Finger Lakes). Scents of cedar and palate, but it’s brightened by a jolt of acidity and Tousey 2012 Pinot Noir ( Re- forest floor linger prominently throughout this fine, lingering tannins. —A.I. 88 gion). Fleshy, ripe black cherry notes per- delicately fruity Cabernet Franc. Tart cranberry and abv: 13% Price: $19 sist throughout this bold, robustly concentrated sour cherry flavors keep the round palate crisp and Pinot Noir. It’s unrestrained in it’s fruity, forward elegant. —A.I. Damiani 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger style, but touches of menthol and bright sour-cher- abv: 13% Price: $19 86 Lakes). While the nose on this Cabernet ry acidity lend balance. The finish is moderately Sauvignon seems ripe and rich, with plump black long, with a touch of heat. —A.I. berry and cherry aromas, the palate is surprisingly abv: 13.5% Price: $26 MERLOT brisk and cutting. It’s refreshing and easy drinking, but finishes a bit abruptly on a fringe of soft, deli- Damiani 2011 Sunrise Hill Vineyard Pinot Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2010 Merlot cate tannins. —A.I. 84 Noir (Finger Lakes). This delicate Pinot Noir 86 (Finger Lakes). A faint whiff of herbs lin- abv: 12.6% Price: $25 might leave you wishing for a boost in power, con- ger from nose to palate, adding earthy complexity centration and depth. Nevertheless, this wine is to tart sour-cherry and cranberry flavors. It’s crisp Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2010 Cabernet quaffable and bright, with red cherry notes that lead and invigorating, but a little restrained in character. 85 Sauvignon (Finger Lakes). Aromas of mo- to a refreshing, brisk finish. —A.I. Finishes on a pleasantly tannic, brambly note. —A.I. cha and chocolate waft sweetly from this ripe, easy abv: 12.1% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $19 drinking Cabernet Sauvignon. The flavors of fleshy black plum and cherry are soft and plump, but re- Fox Run 2012 Merlot (Finger Lakes). Shades freshing acidity kicks on the midpalate. The finish is CABERNET FRANC 86 of golden toast and crushed granite lend swift, with soft, wispy tannins. —A.I. depth and complexity to crisp red cherry flavors in abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Heron Hill 2011 Cabernet Franc (Finger this unusually brisk, sprightly Merlot. Refreshingly 90 Lakes). Layers of mushroom, savory spice, quaffable, a fringe of soft tannins linger on the short and earth lend depth and complexity to luscious red finish. —A.I. RED BLENDS raspberry and cherry flavors in this complex, stand- abv: 12% Price: $23 out Cabernet Franc. Tart cranberry cuts through the Lieb 2007 Meritage (North Fork of Long Is- supple and silky palate, leading to a cool, mineral Keuka Spring 2011 Merlot (Finger Lakes). 88 land). A spray of fragrant cherry blossoms finish. —A.I. 86 Vanilla and baking spices waft amidst rud- lifts aromas of ripe black plum, toast and mush- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 dy, ripe black fruit on this rich, luscious Merlot. room on this lush, layered red. Big, slightly scratchy It’s straightforward and plummy in flavor profile, tannins line a palate that’s ripe with fruit, yet nu- Lamoreaux Landing 2013 Estate Bottled T23 but finishes nicely on a brambly, softly tannic note. anced by earth and bramble. It’s bold and unctuous 90 Unoaked Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). For —A.I. through a moderately long finish. —A.I. full review see page 9. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13.8% Price: $35 abv: 13.15% Price: $20 Damiani 2011 Merlot (Finger Lakes). Tart, Knapp 2012 Meritage (Finger Lakes). Sour Damiani 2011 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Fin- 85 crisp cranberries and cherries lend a cool, 87 cherry and plum blossoms waft amidst 88 ger Lakes). Brambly raspberry and tart red brisk feel to this light-bodied Merlot. It’s refresh- notes of granite and bramble on this light-footed cherry abound on this juicy Cabernet Franc. It’s ingly quaffable but feels shy and overtly restrained. Meritage. Made up of equal parts Cabernet Franc, lushly textured and bold on the palate, but brisk —A.I. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the palate is juicy, acidity keeps it refreshingly drinkable. The finish abv: 12% Price: $23 with cranberry flavors touched by clove and cedar. Finishes moderately long. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $25

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Cereghino Smith 2012 Eaten by Bears (New pristine cherry and berry flavors. It’s lush and soft Lakewood 2013 Riesling (Finger Lakes). 86 York). Luscious aromas of blackberry and on the palate, with dense, grippy tannins that add 88 Smoke and dried tarragon lend savory com- blueberry pie filling are touched by hints of tar and structure to the finish. —A.I. plexity to notes of honeysuckle and lanolin on this crushed stone on this bold, ruddy blend of Syrah abv: 13% Price: $38 nuanced off-dry Riesling. It’s initially quite floral on and Petit Verdot. Ripe black cherry and berry fla- the palate, but tart tangerine acidity and a shock of vors are straightforward, but juicy and pleasurable. Knapp 2011 Lemberger (Finger Lakes). Dried minerals lend a cool, alpine feel that lingers. Best It finishes with a kiss of heat. —A.I. 85 oregano and cedar notes hover over delicate Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.6% Price: $19 sour cherry and cranberry flavors on this light-foot- abv: 11.2% Price: $13 ed Lemberger. It’s a brisk, spry wine, with fleeting Fox Run 2012 Cabernet Franc-Lemberger tannins. —A.I. Lamoreaux Landing 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling 86 (Finger Lakes). Hints of cedar and bramble abv: 12% Price: $19 88 (Finger Lakes). Tangerine peel and citrus lend warmth to fresh, juicy red cherry on this crisp, blossom are fragrant and fresh on this flirtatious medium-bodied red. A racy blend of Cabernet Franc Hudson-Chatham 2012 Casscles Vineyards off-dry Riesling. Straightforward and juicy in style, and Lemberger, it’s forward and primary in style, 83 (Hudson River Region). Candied the palate is saturated with peach and apricot nec- with a brisk, easy finish. —A.I. black cherry and blueberry notes are accented by tar. Zesty lime and touches of mineral add lift to the abv: 12% Price: $18 ginger on this slightly confected wine. The mono- finish. —A.I. tone red cherry palate leads to a hint of bitter tan- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Hudson-Chatham 2011 Empire Reserve Red nins on the finish. —A.I. 85 (New York). Ruddy, primary red cherry abv: 12% Price: $20 Benmarl 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling (Seneca and berry notes persist from nose to finish on this 87 Lake). While the nose is a bit muted, with blend of , Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Ripe Hudson-Chatham 2013 Old Vines Masson faint hints of pressed apple and honey, the palate of black-fruit flavors are fleshy and ripe on the palate, 83 Place Vineyard Pulteney Farm Baco Noir this bristling semi-dry Riesling is bright in Meyer but demure in concentration and length. —A.I. (New York). Tawny fruit leather and cooked red lemon, tangerine and fresh apple flavors. Finishes abv: 12% Price: $25 cherries scent this brick-rimmed wine made from crisp and mineral. —A.I. Baco Noir. With flavors of dried leaves and figs, it abv: 11.9% Price: $18 feels overtly mature for its youthful age. —A.I. OTHER RED WINES abv: 12% Price: $20 Lakewood 2013 3Generations Riesling (Fin- 87 ger Lakes). Candlewax and honeycomb melt Whitecliff Vineyard 2012 Reserve Gamay Tug Hill 2012 Estate Bottled Marquette (New into notes of lemon rind, orange blossom and pot- 90 Noir (Hudson River Region). Granite and red 83 York). Mocha and milk chocolate seem to pourri on this aromatic dry Riesling. Lemon-lime cherry notes are reminiscent of fine in waft from this ruddy, ripe wine made from Mar- acidity is bracing on the palate, but layers of honey, this surprisingly tasty Hudson River Gamay. Cran- quette grapes. Ripe cherry and strawberry flavors tangerine and black tea give the finish length and berry and cherry flavors are tangy and revitalizing, are soft and plush on the palate, brightened by a complexity. —A.I. nuanced by fresh herbs and leaves. It’s elegant and welcome streak of acidity. —A.I. abv: 11.7% Price: $20 sprightly through a moderately long finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 12% Price: $21 Lakewood 2013 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). 87 Hints of smoke mingle with lavender and Fulkerson 2013 William Vigne Zweigelt (Sen- RIESLING potpourri tones on this dry, delicately structured 89 eca Lake). While blackberry and cherry Riesling. It’s dancingly light on the palate, but juicy notes are lush and ripe on the nose, this Finger Keuka Spring 2013 Semi Sweet Riesling (Fin- in fresh peach and pear flavors, leading to a brisk Lakes Zweigelt is surprisingly elegant on the palate. 90 ger Lakes). Rich, ripe yellow cherries and finish. —A.I. Sour cherry and tart plum flavors are concentrated honeysuckle waft from this luxuriously honeyed abv: 11.5% Price: $13 and juicy, but lively in feel. The finish is extended by off-dry Riesling. A sweet tangerine flavor is densely a fringe of fine, polished tannins. —A.I. concentrated on the palate, yet the wine is sprightly Swedish Hill 2013 Blue Waters Riesling (Fin- abv: 12% Price: $18 and zesty in mouthfeel. An elegant floral spray ex- 87 ger Lakes). Dusty crushed stone notes accent tends the long, lingering finish.Best Buy. —A.I. fresh lemon, white peach and blossom on this deli- Fox Run 2012 Lemberger (Finger Lakes). abv: 11.5% Price: $15 cate semi-dry Riesling. The palate is forward and 86 Cedar shavings and golden toast waft over fruity, supporting ripe tangerine and mango flavors, delicate black cherry on this brisk, light-footed Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2013 Semi-Dry but a touch of saffron and pollen lends earthiness to Lemberger. Succulent berry flavors are demure, but 89 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Ripe, pristine pine- the finish. —A.I. peek out shyly through layers of bramble and green apple, mango and honeydew burst from this lus- abv: 11.5% Price: $14 leaf on the palate. —A.I. cious semi-dry Riesling. It’s juicy and lush, boast- abv: 12% Price: $20 ing a tropical fruit flavor, but also structured and Bellangelo 2013 Semi Dry Riesling (Seneca sprightly, with a surprising mineral finish. —A.I. 86 Lake). Smoky, savory earth tones on the Whitecliff Vineyard 2010 Petit Verdot (New abv: 11.5% Price: $15 nose juxtapose fresh, primary lemon and tangerine 86 York). Brambly blackberry, granite and tar flavors on the palate of this semi-dry Riesling. It’s meld enticingly on the nose of this inky black Petit Keuka Lake Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling delicate and brisk, with a fleeting floral finish. —A.I. Verdot. Black cherry and berry flavors are juicy and 88 (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of pine forest lend abv: 10.8% Price: $18 crisp on the palate, but a tad shy in concentration. a pristine alpine feel to this bold dry Riesling. The Soft tannins linger pleasantly on the finish. —A.I. palate is concentrated, with sun-streaked tones of Fox Run 2013 Silvan Riesling (Seneca Lake). abv: 12% Price: $50 pineapple and peach balanced by bristling lemon- 86 Whiffs of smoke and dried dill lend a savory, lime acidity. The finish is moderately long with a earthy feel to this Frenck oak fermented Riesling. Atwater 2012 Moffett Block Blaufränkisch lingering honeycomb note. —A.I. The oak treatment lends broadness to pressed apple 85 (Seneca Lake). Ripe, rich notes of blueber- abv: 13.2% Price: $18 and pear flavors, but the finish is brisk. —A.I. ry and grape jelly lend a slightly confected tone to abv: 12% Price: $30

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Glenora 2013 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Blos- Brooklyn Winery 2012 Riesling (Finger centrated, but zesty acidity keeps it quaffable and 86 som, honeydew and lychee notes waft 85 Lakes). Hints of evergreen and pine cone brisk. —A.I. sweetly from this lavishly aromatic Riesling. The lend a foresty feel to this dry, herbal Riesling. It’s abv: 12% Price: $14 palate is a bit demure by comparison, but it’s bright light-footed on the palate, but bristling lemon-lime in tart lemon-lime flavor. —A.I. acidity lends some impact. Finishes moderately Knapp 2013 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). abv: 12% Price: $14 long. —A.I. 86 Aromas of fresh white peach and wildflow- abv: 11% Price: $20 ers burst from this lively unoaked Chardonany. It’s Keuka Lake Vineyards 2012 Eastside Dry delicate in concentration, but zesty lemon-lime and 86 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Wisps of smoke Brooklyn Winery 2012 Barrel Fermented crisp pear flavors are invigorating on the palate. and nuts add savoriness to bright lemon and peach 85 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Rosemary, sage and —A.I. flavors in this dry, full-bodied Riesling. The pal- lemon accent forest notes on this dry Riesling. A abv: 13% Price: $12 ate lacks robust flavor concentration, but balances fermentation in barrel seems to lend savoriness and voluminous body with striking lemon-lime acidity. earthiness on the palate, but it’s delicate in flavor Knapp 2013 Barrel Reserve Chardonnay Finishes moderately long. —A.I. concentration and impact. The finish is spry and 86 (Finger Lakes). Crisp, fresh lemon and abv: 13% Price: $24 fleeting. —A.I. honeydew notes lend a pristine fruitiness to this abv: 11% Price: $26 dry Chardonnay. It’s a bit shy in concentration and Keuka Lake Vineyards 2012 Falling Man Vine- power for a barrel reserve designation, but squeaky- 86 yard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Mint and Heron Hill 2013 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). clean citrus and fresh apple flavors are delightfully fresh, leafy notes lend a cool, green tone to pressed 85 Delicate notes of bramble and stem waft quaffable. —A.I. apple and pear flavors in this dry, medium-bodied from nose to finish on this dry, medium-bodied abv: 13% Price: $14 Riesling. Fruit flavors are demure in concentration, Riesling. Tart lemon and crunchy pear keep the pal- but piercing lemon acidity makes it refreshing and ate quaffable and crisp. —A.I. Millbrook 2012 Chardonnay (New York). Ripe crisp. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $14 86 tropical, citrus and honey notes abound in abv: 12.5% Price: $30 this bold, richly textured Chardonnay. The palate— Lamoreaux Landing 2013 Estate Bottled Dry while dry—is decadently fruity, with soft acidity Silver Thread 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger 85 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Shades of lanolin, and a creamy, lactic mouthfeel. —A.I. 86 Lakes). Savory shades of dust and pressed blossom and white peach are fragrant on the nose abv: 13% Price: $17 apple contrast fresh lemon and blossom in this off- of this dry, delicately structured Riesling. White dry Riesling. It’s starkly acidic, but plush tangerine grapefruit flavors are thin in concentration, but it’s Millbrook 2012 Proprietor’s Special Reserve and peach flavors round out the midpalate. Finishes brisk and refreshing with a crisp, easy finish. —A.I. 86 Chardonnay (Hudson River Region). Intense moderately long on a earthy mineral note. —A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $14 honey and tropical fruit notes on the nose strike a abv: 12.1% Price: $18 contrast to demure flavors of pressed apples and Tousey 2012 Dry Riesling (Hudson River Re- pears on this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay. It’s a Swedish Hill 2013 Riesling (Finger Lakes). 85 gion). Hints of pine frond lend a foresty bold, brawny wine, but rich and supple in texture. 86 There’s a vein of white blossom perfume feel to this dry, zesty Riesling. Light on its feet and Finishes with hints of toast and spice. —A.I. that lingers throughout this delicate off-dry Ries- delicately concentrated in flavors of fresh apple and abv: 13% Price: $25 ling. Tart tangerine and orange flavors are lively on pear, it finishes briskly on a dusty, stony mineral the palate, yet quick to finish. —A.I. note. —A.I. Six Mile Creek 2012 Chardonnay (Finger abv: 11.8% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $21 84 Lakes). Intense aromas of smoke, nuts and dried hay lend a savory note to this, woody Char- Swedish Hill 2013 Dry Riesling (Finger donnay. Fresh apple and lemon flavors are bright 86 Lakes). While the nose is exuberant and CHARDONNAY and brisk on the palate, but compete for spotlight tropical with swirls of mango and pineapple, the amidst unyielding tones of American oak. —A.I. palate of this dry Riesling is surprisingly dainty. Lieb 2013 Bridge Lane Chardonnay (North abv: 12.8% Price: $15 Crisp pear and tangerine flavors are refreshing and 88 Fork of Long Island). Honeydew and mango easy drinking through a brisk finish. —A.I. notes lend tropical flair to apple and pear flavors abv: 11.9% Price: $16 in this fruit-forward, easy drinking Chardonnay. PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO Dry and medium bodied in style, it’s balanced by a Tousey 2012 Riesling (Hudson River Region). stream of zesty lime acidity and a touch of saline Lakewood 2013 Gigliotti Vineyards Pinot 86 Notes of evergreen and forest floor entice on mineral on the finish. —A.I. 90 Gris (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of orange blos- this delicately structured semi-dry Riesling. It’s not abv: 12.5% Price: $15 som and lemon rind lend vibrancy to this rich, lux- robustly concentrated with fruit, but soft tones of uriously textured Pinot Gris. Just off dry in style, white peach and honeydew shine through elegantly. Glenora 2013 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay it bursts with flavors of white peach showered in The finish is crisp and mineral. —A.I. 87 (Finger Lakes). Waxy honeycomb accents grapefruit acidity. Luscious and irresistibly clingy, abv: 11.5% Price: $19 fresh lemon, pear and white peach in this dry, lush- it lingers long on the palate. Best Buy. —A.I. ly textured Chardonnay. It’s creamy and voluminous abv: 13.7% Price: $14 Atwater 2013 Navone Vineyards Dry Riesling in mouthfeel, yet balanced by bright acidity and a 85 (Seneca Lake). Dried savory herbs, stems lingering oyster shell minerality lends elegance and Atwater 2013 White Birch Vineyards Pinot and smoke are prominent on the nose of this dry style. —A.I. 88 Gris (Finger Lakes). Juicy pineapple, mango Riesling aged three months in neutral French oak. abv: 13% Price: $16 and citrus notes lend a tropical feel to this penetrat- It’s an unusually earthy profile, but lends savoriness ing, yet light bodied, Pinot Gris. Off dry in style, it’s to flavors of pressed apple and pear on the palate. Heron Hill 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay (Fin- dancingly light on its feet, with a revitalizing show- —A.I. 86 ger Lakes). Fresh, crisp white peach and er of acidity that lingers through the finish. —A.I. abv: 11.7% Price: $20 apple aromas are bright and breezy on this refresh- abv: 11% Price: $18 ing unoaked Chardonnay. It’s not robustly con-

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Sheldrake Point 2013 Pinot Gris (Finger abashedly forward in fruit, but elegantly balanced ling and Pinot Blanc. It’s moderately concentrated, 88 Lakes). Orange blossoms perfume this vo- by tangerine acidity. —A.I. with delicate flavors of fresh stone fruit, pear and luptuous yet elegantly structured Pinot Gris. It’s abv: 12.5% Price: $15 toast, but enlivened by a streak of sunny lemon lush and ripe in white peach and pineapple flavors, acidity. Finishes briskly. —A.I. but jolted by a stream of tart lemony acidity. Fin- Knapp 2013 Dry Gewürztraminer (Cayuga abv: 13% Price: $18 ishes moderately long. —A.I. 86 Lake). While the nose is demure, with just abv: 13.5% Price: $16 a touch of rose petal remniscent of Gewürztraminer, Glenora 2013 Pinot Blanc (Finger Lakes). this dry white gains body and power on the palate. 85 Wisps of smoke meld into fresh apple and Atwater 2013 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Pi- There’s a surprising intensity of stone fruit flavor lemon notes in this dry, light-bodied Pinot Blanc. 87 not Gris (Finger Lakes). While the nose is that remains through the finish. —A.I. It’s not robust in flavor or complexity, but refresh- restrained, hinting at aromas of pressed apple and abv: 13% Price: $15 ing and lively on the palate. —A.I. pear, the palate is luscious and concentrated, boast- abv: 12% Price: $15 ing sunny pineapple and tangerine flavors. Off dry in style, this balanced wine boasts lemon-lime acid- Heron Hill 2013 Reserve Pinot Blanc (Finger ity and a refreshing mineral finish. —A.I. 84 Lakes). Hints of lemon and blossom in- abv: 11.6% Price: $17 Clinton 2013 Victory White Seyval Blanc vigorate earthier, savory tones of nuts and pressed 84 (Hudson River Region). While pressed apple apples in this dry, medium-bodied Pinot Blanc. It’s Damiani 2013 Pinot Grigio (Finger Lakes). notes seem savory on the nose, the palate of this dry slightly restrained on the palate, finishing briskly on 86 With vibrant aromas of green apple and Seyval Blanc is surprisingly fresh boasting a deli- a smoky walnut-skin note. —A.I. lemon, this seemingly delicate Pinot Grigio turns cate honeydew flavor. There’s not a lot of concen- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 out surprisingly brawny and bold. Apple and pear tration or power, but it’s pleasant and crisp, with flavors are fresh on the palate, finishing moderately lingering lemon-lime acidity. —A.I. long with a hint of alcoholic warmth and a lingering abv: 11.5% Price: $19 SPARKLING WINES bitter-almond note. —A.I. abv: 13.4% Price: $16 Clinton 2012 Victory White Seyval Blanc Sparkling Pointe 2005 Brut Séduction (North 83 (Hudson River Region). Dusty, musky notes 91 Fork of Long Island). Honey and lemon accent Heron Hill 2013 Reserve Pinot Gris (Finger persist throughout this delicately framed Seyval the nose and palate of this stately flagship wine 85 Lakes). Dusty mineral notes pepper this dry, Blanc, lending a savory, dark tone to pressed apple from Sparkling Pointe. Extended lees aging lends re- medium-bodied Pinot Gris, lending a savoriness to and pear flavors. The palate is tart and lemony, with markable depth and complexity—shades of brioche flavors of pressed apple and pear. Soft, lemony acid- a brisk finish. —A.I. and almond add a richness on the palate. Revitaliz- ity brightens the midpalate, mingling with hints of abv: 11.5% Price: $19 ing acidity and a train of tiny bubbles lead to a soft, oyster shell and sea breeze. Finishes briskly. —A.I. pillowy foam. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Six Mile Creek 2012 Seyval Blanc (Finger abv: 12.5% Price: $60 83 Lakes). Toast and dried herb notes lend an Seneca Shore NV Amulet Pinot Grigio (Sene- oaky tone to pressed apple and pear flavors on this Sparkling Pointe 2011 Topaz Impérial Rosé 84 ca Lake). Intense notes of saffron and pollen Seyval Blanc. It’s dry and full bodied in style, with a 90 (North Fork of Long Island). Delicate sprays lend spice to pretty blossom aromas on this fragrant bright, lemon-focused midpalate that finishes a bit of cherry blossom and raspberry waft from nose Pinot Grigio. Flavors of pressed apples on the pal- sour and woody. —A.I. to finish on this salmon-pink blend of traditional ate seem savory and subdued by comparison, but abv: 12.8% Price: $14 grape varieties. Zesty lemonade acid- lemon-lime acidity brightens the finish. —A.I. ity is lively on the palate, leading to a long, softly abv: 12.5% Price: $13 foamed finish. —A.I. OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $37

GEWÜRZTRAMINER Keuka Lake Vineyards 2013 Gently Dry Sparkling Pointe 2011 Brut (North Fork of 89 Vignoles (Finger Lakes). Sun-kissed pine- 89 Long Island). A hint of brioche lends auto- Lakewood 2013 Gewürztraminer (Finger apple and tart mango entice on the nose of this un- lytic character to fresh spring blossom and lemon 88 Lakes). Intensely perfumed by notes of rose usually refined off-dry Vignoles. It’s lusciously ripe notes on this elegant, bristling traditional-method petal potpourri, lychee and honeysuckle, this is a on the palate, bursting with yellow cherry and tan- sparkling. It’s delicately effervescent and startlingly surprisingly well-balanced powerhouse Gewürztra- gerine flavors, but streaked by racy lemon acidity. brisk, finishing on a soft, rolling foam that deli- miner. Bright acidity and a hint of minerals offset The finish is elegantly lingers on a dried sage note. ciously lingers. —A.I. the bold, expansive mouthfeel. A kiss of honey lin- Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 gers on the finish.Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $14 abv: 14.3% Price: $13 Lakewood 2011 25th Anniversary Blanc de Damiani 2013 Davis Vineyard Sauvignon 88 Noir (Finger Lakes). Pretty lavender and vio- Glenora 2013 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). 86 Blanc (Finger Lakes). Faint hints of goose- let notes entice on the nose of this sparkling Pinot 87 Rose petal and lychee aromas give character- berry and pineapple peek through on the nose and Noir. It’s bold in mousse, boasting a dense, mouth- istic flair to this dry, full-bodied Gewürztraminer. palate of this modestly concentrated Sauvignon filling foam, yet fresh apple and pear flavors are en- Brightened by crisp acidity, its refreshing palate Blanc. It’s refreshingly crisp, with bright lime acid- vigorated by zesty lemon-lime acidity, leading to a tames a bold alcoholic structure. —A.I. ity cutting through the midpalate and finishes on a long finish. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15 zesty citrus note. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $30 abv: 12.6% Price: $18 Knapp 2013 Semi-Dry Gewürztraminer (Ca- Damiani 2012 Bollicini (Finger Lakes). Hints 86 yuga Lake). Intense aromas of tropical ly- Glenora 2013 Signature White (Finger 87 of orange blossom accent sugar cookie and chee and honeydew waft from this concentrated, 86 Lakes). Juicy, ripe peach and blossom notes brioche in this sparkling blend of Chardonany, Pinot off-dry Gewürztraminer. The palate is lush and un- perfume this full bodied blend of Chardonnay, Ries-

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Noir, Cayuga and Pinot Gris. It’s zesty in lemon-lime allow it to fully blossom. Good Company Wines. drinks off dry, with ripe stone-fruit flavors balanced acidity, finishing rich and dense. —A.I. —S.S. by crisp acidity, leading to a lingering finish. MGZ abv: 12.6% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Associates. —S.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 Tug Hill 2013 Cuvée Rosé (New York). Notes Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 McLean Creek 86 of cherry and berry burst from the glass 87 Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley). in this off-dry sparkling rosé. It’s a bit confected This wine still appears to be coming out of its shell, SWEET WINES in profile, but hints of violet and bramble lend el- showing some reduction with reticent notes of red egance. Cranberry acidity shocks the midpalate plum, cherry and berry. The flavors are lipsmacking Inniskillin 2012 Icewine Niagara Estate Ries- before finishing in a soft, pillowy foam. It’s a fun, and rich, but it’s difficult right now to get a clear 93 ling (Niagara Peninsula). A thoroughly daz- unique sparkling that’s surprisingly well composed. sense of where it’s all going. Good Company Wines. zling wine that brings focused, complex notes of —A.I. —S.S. honey, pineapple and dried apricot. At 266 g/L re- abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 sidual sugar, it’s thick, rich and luscious, with the grape’s natural acidity carrying the flavors through Clinton NV Seyval Naturel (Hudson River to a long, lively and lingering finish. Constellation 86 Region). Hints of saltwater and brine lend CHARDONNAY Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. savory tones to aromas of pressed apples and pears abv: 9.5% Price: $80/375 ml on this dry Seyval Blanc sparkling. Indications of Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 McLean Creek maturity abound, with touches of nutty mushroom 90 Vineyard Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). A Inniskillin 2012 Icewine Niagara Estate Vidal and earth. A soft pétillance leads to a pleasant bri- delightful bottle with notes of stone fruit, buttered 91 (Niagara Peninsula). A very aromatic wine, oche finish. —A.I. popcorn and toasty spice. It’s light in style, display- showing notes of orange marmalade, brown sugar abv: 12% Price: $30 ing both nuance and delicacy, with enough acidity and apricot. It’s supremely rich, with a mango and to keep it all in vivid focus. Good Company Wines. honey filled finish. Constellation Brands, Inc. —S.S. Clinton NV Jubilee (Hudson River Region). Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 9.5% Price: $60/375 ml 85 This Seyval Blanc sparkling opens with abv: 13.5% Price: $30 notes of savory pressed apple and wood. The pal- ate is thin in concentration, but biting lemon-lime Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 Tribute Series CHILE acidity adds refreshment. The finish is animated in 89 Old Main Road Chardonnay (Okanagan Val- effervescence and pleasantly delicate in foam. —A.I. ley). A directly appealing wine showing notes of CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 12% Price: $35 stone fruit, mineral and toasty barrel spice. It’s light and airy in style, offering a pleasing sense of deli- Casas del Bosque 2012 Gran Reserva Caber- cacy and restraint on the long finish. Good Company 89 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This dark, OTHER U.S. Wines. —S.S. heavily oaked Cabernet is lemony on the nose, but abv: 13.5% Price: $30 also full of typical cassis and black fruit aromas. RED BLEND The palate is muscular, with firm tannins. Flavors of black fruit are matched by resiny oak, leading Cereghino Smith 2012 Super Hudson (Amer- RIESLING to additional notes of licorice on the finish. Drink 85 ica). Dusty cedar and Bourbon-barrel notes through 2017. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. dominate fruit on this unusual blend of New York Cave Spring 2012 Cave Spring Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Blaufränkisch and California Valdiguié, Petit Verdot 92 Estate Bottled VQA Riesling (Beamsville and Syrah grapes. It’s a delicate, wispy wine, with Bench). Coming from vines ranging in age from Concha y Toro 2012 Serie Riberas Gran Reser- faint streaks of crisp red cherry and plum, but it fin- 9–39 years, this is an aromatically complex wine, 89 va Ribera del Tinguiririca Cabernet Sauvi- ishes warmly on a vanilla spice note. —A.I. with notes of wet slate, orange peel and herb. It gnon (Marchigue). Jammy raspberry and plum aro- abv: 12% Price: $19 drinks off dry, with tart, mouthwatering acidity ac- mas are primary and fresh on the nose. This ripe, centing the abundant stone fruit flavors—a thriller round wine is sure to be a party-pleaser. Solid cas- of a wine. MGZ Associates. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. sis, berry and spice flavors finish pure, with ripe- CANADA abv: 11.5% Price: $17 ness and proper balance. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 PINOT NOIR Cave Spring 2011 Indian Summer Select Late 91 Harvest VQA Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). A Arboleda 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Acon- Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 Reimer Vine- vibrantly aromatic wine, with notes of petrol, mar- 88 cagua Valley). Blackberry and cassis aromas 89 yard Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley). Aro- malade, citrus and flowers. It’s rich and honeyed, show earthy and herbaceous hints, with coconut matically appealing in notes of sarsaparilla, bar- with a lightly smoky, lingering finish. MGZ Associ- and vanilla tones coming on late. The acid-driven rel spice and cherry. This full-bodied Pinot brings ates. —S.S. palate meets oaky flavors of coconut and vanilla, pomegranate and plum flavors to the palate, show- abv: 13% Price: $30/375 ml softened by plum and cherry notes on the finish. ing some dryness from the tannins. Good Company Thiénot USA. —M.S. Wines. —S.S. Cave Spring 2012 VQA Riesling (Niagara abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 90 Peninsula). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. Santa Alicia 2012 Gran Reserva de Los Andes Meyer Family Vineyards 2012 Pinot Noir abv: 11.5% Price: $15 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Red 88 (Okanagan Valley). The aromas of moss, berry and herbal aromas are firm and focused on the mineral and plum are light and elusive, provid- Cave Spring 2011 Cave Spring Vineyard nose. A snappy palate deals savory and fruity fla- ing contrast to the palate’s broad, juicy, ripe fruit 90 Estate Bottled VQA Riesling (Beamsville vors of red berry, olive and mint. Firm tannins and flavors. Perhaps additional time in the bottle will Bench). A detailed wine, with notes of wet slate, apricot and pear alongside high toned spices. It

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BUYINGGUIDE

driving acidity push the finish a bit further. Halby MontGras 2013 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Veo 2013 Grande Cabernet Sauvignon (Col- Marketing. —M.S. 86 (Colchagua Valley). Crisp berry fruit aro- 84 chagua Valley). Rubber aromas pervade on abv: 14% Price: $15 mas pervade over a slightly perfumed tone. This the nose. A grippy tannins dominate resin notes of wine is round, with cherry, plum and toasty oak fla- wood and spice over a hint of fruit. A slightly her- Cousiño-Macul 2012 Cab (Central Valley). vors that turn slightly bitter on the finish. Palm Bay baceous finish brings this wine home. Prestige Wine 87 Cherry, plum, berry and cassis aromas are International. —M.S. Group. Best Buy. —M.S. standard and well presented. A full, approachable abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 and balanced palate is home to ripe flavors of black- berry and cassis. For the price, this wine is gener- Emiliana 2013 Natura Cabernet Sauvignon Viña Maipo 2012 Vitral Cabernet Sauvignon ous, balanced and lasting. Winebow. Best Buy. 85 (Rapel Valley). Jammy strawberry aromas 84 (Central Valley). Charred, smoky aromas —M.S. are sweet and welcoming on the nose. A bit dis- are dominant on the nose. Strong tannins overpow- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 jointed, with tangy acidity, the palate brings dark er baked fruit aromas and oaky and herbal tones. fruit tones of cherry, plum and berry. Banfi Vint- Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. Cousiño-Macul 2012 Don Matias Cabernet ners. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 87 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Cassis and black abv: 13.5% Price: $12 cherry aromas are ripe and welcoming. A plump, Alto Los Romeros 2012 Gran Reserva Caber- soft palate features jammy flavors of baked berry La Playa 2013 Estate Series Cabernet Sauvi- 83 net Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Earthy, fruit and cassis. The weighty finish delivers notes of 85 gnon (Colchagua Valley). Restrained on the funky aromas of leafy, baked berry fruits and cassis earth and licorice. Winebow. —M.S. nose at first, this opens to a mix of mint and red rank as strange and wild. Burnt flavors of coffee and abv: 14% Price: $14 berry aromas. The mouthfeel is plump and fresh, herbal berries are gamy, while the mouthfeel is tan- with berry flavors that hang on the finish. Cabernet nic and hard to plow through. Domaine Select Wine Indomita 2012 Zardoz Cabernet Sauvignon Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S. Estates. —M.S. 87 (Maipo Valley). Blackberry and cherry aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 14% Price: $18 mas lead over an herbaceous and earthy tone on the nose. The rock-hard palate boasts astringent tan- Veramonte 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colch- Beach Kite 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen- nins which will require years in the bottle to tame. 85 agua Valley). Jammy aromas of oak-infused 83 tral Valley). Jammy cherry and plum aro- Spicy and herbal black fruit flavors finish dry, with raspberry and cassis precede a creamy, simple pal- mas turn briary with airing. This wine is candied notes of tobacco and spice. Laird & Company. —M.S. ate, with flavors of sweet oak, vanilla and red berry and jammy in feel, and soft in the middle. Flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $25 fruit. The finish retains fruit of the slightly confect- of spiced blueberry are low in depth and fade away ed variety. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. with weedy notes. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. Porta 2012 Estate Bottled Gran Reserva Cab- abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $7 87 ernet Sauvignon (Aconcagua Valley). Mildly grassy, barnyard aromas are balanced by ripe berry Viña Bisquertt 2013 Petirrojo Reserva Estate Primus 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo and cassis tones. This shows a playful palate of 85 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Val- 83 Valley). Blackberry and rubbery aromas jammy blackberry flavors tinged with gravel. On the ley). Oak and mild perfume notes accent red berry are also leafy and mulchy. The syrupy mouthfeel finish, it’s earthy but a bit flat, with a heavy weight. aromas on the nose. The palate feels disjointed, is heavy, with baked cassis and prune flavors sug- Drink through 2016. Saranty Imports. —M.S. with mild, ripe berry flavors and a hint of spice on gesting overripe fruit. Fig, chocolate and sawdust abv: 14% Price: $19 the finish. Prestige Wine Group.Best Buy. —M.S. notes come up on a cloying finish. Huneeus Vint- abv: 14% Price: $9 ners. —M.S. William Cole 2012 Columbine Special Reserve abv: 14.7% Price: $20 87 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Kon Tiki 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Rubber and mineral aromas share the stage 84 Valley). Raspberry and currant aromas are Porta 2013 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon with smoky cassis and plum accents. This wine feels restrained on the nose. The round palate boasts 82 (Maipo Valley). Gamy aromas suggest toma- fresh and zesty with plum and red berry flavors. A creamy oak riding on top of mild berry flavors. Oak- to and underripe berry. A harsh, acidic palate fails fruity, focused finish is alert but low on depth and influenced nutmeg and clove flavors mingle on a hot to bring elegance, while flavors of beet, raspberry richness. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. finish. AWDirect. —M.S. extract, green herb and tomato end in a hard, nar- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $12 row fashion. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2012 Anderra Patagón 2013 Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 86 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley). For- 84 (Curicó Valley). Jammy plum and currant ward berry and plum aromas are pleasant on the flavors turn roasted in the glass. Typical notes of CARMENÈRE nose. On the palate, high acid drives flavors of plum plum and berry support a steady palate. Table 31 and red berry fruit to a short and clean finish. Con- Imports. —M.S. Montes 2012 Purple Angel Carmenère (Colch- stellation Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9 92 agua Valley). As per usual, Purple Angel is a abv: 13.5% Price: $12 full-force experience. Hailing from a warm year, this Santa Alicia 2013 Reserva Espiritu de Los is dense and purple in color, as it should be. Aro- Indomita 2012 Duette Premium Cabernet 84 Andes Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon mas of graphite, oak, tobacco and black fruit set up 86 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Dark berry aro- (Maipo Valley). Mint and oak aromas mingle with a jammy, full palate with saturated flavors of spice- mas mingle with notes of mineral and graphite on berry tones on the nose. Upon entrance the wine laden blueberry and boysenberry. Finishing notes of the nose. The palate is tight and closed, with rub- feels flabby, however after a few seconds the juicy tobacco, herb and oak cement this big-boned wine’s bery tannins that create an astringent feel. Black- acidity kicks in. Flavors of underripe berry and ol- ripe, beefy status. Drink through 2018. TGIC Im- berry and currant flavors lead to a tight finish. Laird ive dominate the palate, with a slightly oaky finish. porters. —M.S. & Company. —M.S. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $12

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Viña La Ronciere 2011 Quiron Carmenère Emiliana 2013 Natura Carmenère (Colchagua Montes 2012 Alpha Malbec (Colchagua Val- 90 (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 85 Valley). Red berry and spice aromas make 84 ley). This oaky Malbec is black in color, 11. up the bouquet on this limited-production wine. with charred aromas of asphalt and hickory that abv: 14% Price: $30 Herbal flavors of olive and berry finish oaky, black- overpower blackberry and currant tones. Bracing ened and minty. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. tannins seem disjointed, while roasted, charred Oveja Negra 2011 Single Vineyard Carmenère abv: 13.5% Price: $11 flavors finish with a menthol heat. TGIC Importers. 88 (Maule Valley). For full review see page 13. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 MontGras 2013 Reserva Carmenère (Colcha- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 84 gua Valley). Spicy plum aromas are oaky but Santa Carolina 2011 Reserva de Familia Car- fail to hold firm as the nose becomes more earthy as Porta 2012 Estate Bottled Gran Reserva Mal- 88 menère (Rapel Valley). Foresty aromas of it opens. The palate has a creamy, forced-oak feel. 84 bec (Bío Bío Valley). Compact berry aromas olive, black fruit and cardamom are brusque but Flavors of wood grain, plastic and black fruit fin- veer toward herbal and minty on the nose. The pal- solid. The palate is compact, narrow and firm, with ish sweet and minty in flavor, but also lactic in feel. ate is full, hard and rubbery in feel, with pounding grabby tannins that are soluble. Flavors of forest Palm Bay International. —M.S. tannins. Flavors of blueberry and mint finish with a floor, herbal berry and a slight bitterness end with abv: 14% Price: $12 hint of herbal berry. Saranty Imports. —M.S. an aftershock of herb, black olive and mint. Carolina abv: 14% Price: $16 Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 MALBEC Agustinos 2013 Reserva Malbec (Bío Bío Val- 81 ley). Dilute aromas of strawberry and cherry La Playa 2011 Axel Carmenère (Colchagua Montes 2011 Alpha Malbec (Colchagua Val- feed into a raw palate with a grating mouthfeel. Red 87 Valley). Like a stage actress, this wine is 89 ley). Broad, ripe berry aromas are dark and fruit flavors seem disconnected, yet candied and wearing a lot of makeup, which in this case means full on the nose. The palate is lively, with a shot of grassy in profile. Apollo Fine Spirits. —M.S. oak. In the mouth, it’s tannic, rough and acidic. bracing acidity. Flavors of dark fruit, grilled meat, abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Flavors of baked berry, stewed plum, herb, molas- herb and salt finish briny, with a final wave of hard ses and raisin finish plump but with modest energy. tannins. Drink through 2016. TGIC Importers. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. —M.S. MERLOT abv: 13.7% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Santa Alicia 2012 Gran Reserva de Los Andes Santa Alicia 2011 Gran Reserva de Los Andes Santa Carolina 2011 Reserva de Familia 89 Merlot (Maipo Valley). Compact and dense 87 Estate Bottled Carmenère (Maipo Valley). 88 Malbec (Rapel Valley). Leathery red berry on the nose, this Merlot is in good shape from head Olive, spice, juniper and berry aromas make for a aromas move to dark fruit after sitting in the glass. to toe. Dark berry and spice aromas hold up to air- classic old-school Carmenère bouquet. This is a This Malbec is jammy in feel, but overall it’s fresh. ing. This is full on the palate, with spicy, baked berry grippy, raw, tannic wine with baked berry and herb- Earthy flavors of spiced plum, baked berry and flavors. Barrel contact brings a strong savory spice al flavors. The finish is minty and long, with resiny salt finish toasty, woody and briny. Carolina Wine element on the finish. Halby Marketing. —M.S. oak and lasting herbal leftovers. Halby Marketing. Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $15 Santa Alicia 2013 Reserva Espiritu de Los Agustinos 2013 Gran Terroir Estate Grown 87 Andes Estate Bottled Merlot (Maipo Valley). Viña Bisquertt 2013 La Joya Gran Reserva 86 La Huella Vineyard Malbec (Bío Bío Valley). Earthy, ripe on the nose, with good black fruit aro- 87 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Fairly crisp Loud berry fruit aromas turn more rustic and barn- mas. Blackberry, mocha and chocolate flavors are red fruit aromas suggest plum, red flower and wood yard-driven with time. This is big but wiry in feel, straightforward on the palate and lead to a slightly resin on the nose. This is a full bodied wine with with protruding acidity creating a prodding, astrin- linear finish. Halby Marketing.Best Buy. —M.S. plenty of oak. Flavors of berry fruit finish with last- gent sensation. Wild berry and plum flavors finish abv: 14% Price: $12 ing sweetness and an herbal character. Prestige short, toasty and a touch hot. Apollo Fine Spirits. Wine Group. —M.S. —M.S. Casa Silva 2012 Cuvée Merlot (Colchagua abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $17 86 Valley). Stewed and spicy tones of tomato and red fruit run the aromas. Baked berry flavors, Viña Bisquertt 2013 Petirrojo Reserva Estate Anakena 2011 Tama Vineyard Selection Mal- herbal notes and a touch of salt vie for attention in 87 Grown Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). The 86 bec (Cachapoal Valley). Medicinal cherry front of a finish that shows a note of chocolate. Vine opening is a touch scratchy and herbal, but there are aromas are a touch herbal and green, but also floral. Connections. —M.S. also nice berry fruit aromas. The palate is ripe and This red-tinted Malbec is jammy on the palate, with abv: 14% Price: $15 substantial in feel. Flavors of sweet black plum and lightly herbal plum and currant flavors. The zesty spice come with a touch of wood, while the finish is finish brings a cool-vintage green character into Santa Ema 2012 Select Terroir Merlot spicy like a licorice gumdrop. Prestige Wine Group. play. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. 85 (Cachapoal Valley). Deep purple in color, Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16 spicy berry aromas open on the nose of this mint- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 laden Merlot. Lush, core flavors of blackberry and Santa Alicia 2012 Reserva Espiritu de Los plum show a saucy green pepper quality on the fin- Veramonte 2013 Carmenère (Colchagua 85 Andes Estate Bottled Malbec (Maipo Valley). ish. TGIC Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. 86 Valley). Herbal berry and olive aromas are Initial floral and berry aromas turn toward tar and abv: 13% Price: $10 welcoming on the nose. The palate has a mostly burnt meat upon airing. Flavors of herbal berry, ol- friendly feel, although the weight feels a bit heavy ive and pepper are welcoming to a palate driven by Cousiño-Macul 2012 Don Matias Reserva Mer- and syrupy. Flavors of candied black fruit, spice and hard tannins. Lively acidity keeps things cranking 81 lot (Maipo Valley). Jammy aromas of red ber- thyme finish oaky and taste like carob and green along. Halby Marketing. —M.S. ries and rhubarb turn grassy in the glass. This wine herb. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $12

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BUYINGGUIDE

is rough and tannic, with briny red berry flavors. that’s backed by spice and mild bitter-tasting oak. Overly acidity in nature, this wine tastes tart, with Lacks balance on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. Apollo Fine Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. mild spice notes. A shearing, sour finish is fresh but abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 thin. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Chilcas 2012 Reserva Pinot Noir (Maule Val- PINOT NOIR 85 ley). Lightly stalky aromas with red currant Chilensis 2012 Reserva Pinot Noir (Maule Val- and dried red plum feed into a tangy, one-dimen- 81 ley). Raisin-driven, flabby aromas are criti- Luis Felipe Edwards 2011 Marea Pinot Noir sional palate boasting racy, citric flavors of raspber- cally low on vigor. This is a bland, overripe Pinot 90 (Leyda Valley). Fresh tomato, plum, herb ry, herb and tomato. This basic Pinot finishes fresh, with mealy flavors boosted by a shock of acidity. Old and spice aromas are authentic. A medium bodied minty and herbal. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. Bridge Cellars. —M.S. palate is lifted and elegant. Flavors of woody spice, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 light herb, raspberry and red plum finish racy, with hints of cocoa and white pepper. Among Chilean Leyda 2012 Classic Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Pinot Noirs, this is at the top of its field. Domaine 85 Herb, raspberry and tomato aromas are SYRAH Select Wine Estates. —M.S. welcoming on the nose. The palate seems oak-driv- abv: 14% Price: $25 en, with spicy and herbal tones of tea, cherry and Errazuriz 2012 Max Reserva Syrah (Aconcagua plum. On the finish, tangy fruit and spice dominate. 91 Valley). Berry aromas are a touch dusty and Viña Casablanca 2011 Nimbus Single Vine- Winebow. —M.S. floral on the nose, with hints of earth and cedar. On 88 yard Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Spiced abv: 14% Price: $13 the palate, this wine is bright and balanced, with cherry, plum and dry oak aromas drive the nose. fresh acidity. Rich berry, cassis and spice flavors fin- The palate is plump, fruity and creamy feeling, with Porta 2014 Estate Bottled Reserva Pinot Noir ish agile and long. Drink through 2016. Vintus LLC. woody, resiny flavors of plum and raspberry. The 85 (Bío Bío Valley). Raspberry syrup and plum —M.S. finish is oaky and a bit hot, with mint and pepper aromas set up a full, broad palate that’s mouthfilling abv: 14% Price: $20 notes. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. but lacks finesse. Dark plum and raspberry flavors abv: 14% Price: $20 conclude in a swirl of tannins and toasty oak. Sa- Arboleda 2012 Syrah (Aconcagua Valley). ranty Imports. —M.S. 89 Ripe and earthy aromas of black cherry and Ritual 2012 Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $12 blackberry are lush and dense on the nose. The pal- 87 Earthy aromas of leather and tea run side by ate follows suit with a full mouthfeel, but retains side with baked red fruit tones. The palate is round, Indomita 2013 Duette Premium Pinot Noir adequate acidity for balance. Flavors of gravel- with just enough acidity to avoid being lackluster. 84 (Casablanca Valley). Smoky spice leads to tinged black fruit, baking spice and carob finish ripe Herbal flavors of strawberry and raspberry have a charred tones in the glass. This wood-dominated and easy. Drink now. Thiénot USA. —M.S. minty green hue, while the finish is peppery and Pinot is disjointed and clumsy on the palate. Rasp- abv: 14% Price: $20 herbal. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. berry and plum flavors are crowded by heavy oak abv: 14.5% Price: $20 spice, while the finish tastes resiny, with forest Casas del Bosque 2012 Gran Reserva Estate berry notes. Laird & Company. —M.S. 89 Bottled Syrah (Casablanca Valley). Aro- Veramonte 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Valley). abv: 14% Price: $18 mas of graphite, rich berry fruit and leather domi- 87 Saucy tomato, plum and stalky aromas make nate the nose. This Syrah has a jammy, yet layered for a moderately ripe smelling bouquet. Resiny oak Veranda 2013 Quinel Single Vineyard Estate mouthfeel, along with flavors of berry, toast, graph- gives this wine weight and thickness, while spiced 84 Bottled Pinot Noir (Bío Bío Valley). Raspber- ite and mint. Overall this is a deep, full-bodied wine cherry and tea flavors finish smooth in feel and ry and cocoa aromas are dusty and subdued. A tight, that’s quite toasty and oaky. Southern Starz, Inc. spicy in flavor. Huneeus Vintners.Best Buy. —M.S. tannic palate is driving, while flavors of citrus and —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $12 red plum come with spice and oak notes. A spice abv: 14.5% Price: $20 component with sharp acidity carry onto a firm, Arboleda 2012 Pinot Noir (Aconcagua Val- chalky finish. Saranty Imports. —M.S. Ninquén 2012 Antu Mountain Vineyard 86 ley). Earthy aromas of tomato and herb are abv: 14% Price: $18 88 Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Round, dark fruit raw and sharp on the nose. On the palate, this wine aromas come with a pinch of grass. On the palate, is zesty and fresh. Spicy flavors of tomato, raspberry Agustinos 2013 Reserva Pinot Noir (Bío Bío this mountain-grown Syrah is enticing. Flavors of and herb end in a blaze of oak, peppery plum, rasp- 83 Valley). Red fruit aromas are fresh and toast, raw oak, gravel and baked black fruits finish berry and mint. Thiénot USA. —M.S. sharp, yet tight and linear. The palate follows suit with spice and wood undertones. Drink through abv: 13.5% Price: $20 by way of tart citrus overpowering cherry and rasp- 2018. Palm Bay International. —M.S. berry flavors. A dash of spice lingers on a semisour abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2011 Tectonia Pi- finish. Apollo Fine Spirits. —M.S. 86 not Noir (Bío Bío Valley). Herbal plum aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Quintay 2012 Q Syrah (Casablanca Valley). mas are oaky and lactic on the nose. This Pinot is 87 Leather and game notes accent standard juicy on the palate, with cool-climate acidity. The Alta Delta 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Curicó blackberry aromas. This is jammy and voluminous, flavor profile includes distant red fruit notes and a 83 Valley). Tart red fruit aromas come with oak but lacks some refinement. Herbal black fruit fla- heavy topping of oak resin on the finish. Broadbent tones and a whiff of tomato. An astringent palate vors show a tinge of herbaceousness, while the fin- Selections, Inc. —M.S. tastes herbal and slightly green, with plenty of oak. ish is plump and round in feel. Regal Wine Imports abv: 14% Price: $20 Flavors of wood resin, olive and green herbs are not Inc. —M.S. typical for the variety. Kosher. Aiko Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Agustinos 2014 Reserva Pinot Noir (Bío Bío abv: 13.5% Price: $11 85 Valley). Briary raspberry aromas are raw and a bit leathery in character. Rubbery tannins Morandé 2011 Gran Reserva Pinot Noir (Casa- and zesty acidity create a racy red fruit flavor profile 82 blanca Valley). This light bodied, transpar- ent Pinot has notes of earth and citrus on the nose.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Estampa 2012 Reserve Assemblage Carme- Rios de Chile 2010 Kayen The Lonely River RED BLENDS 91 nère-Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua 90 (Cachapoal Valley). Blackberry, blueberry, Valley). Dark, concentrated and powerful, this Car- rubber and violet aromas show a pinch of cool-vin- Almaviva 2011 Puente Alto. Berry aromas menère-heavy blend pumps out huge cassis, black- tage green. The palate on this Cabernet Sauvignon- 93 with a mineral twang lead to notes of earth, berry and cola aromas in front of a racy, tannic, jet- Carmenère-Petit Verdot-Syrah blend is tightly olive and freshly fallen leaves. As per usual for powered palate. Baked, lemon-blackberry and cola wound, with grating tannins. The berry flavors are a Almaviva, the palate is round and smooth as silk. flavors are earthy and forceful. Tobacco and cedar touch leafy, while the finish brings red fruit flavors Blackberry, cassis, toasty oak and cocoa powder fla- notes along with hard tannins push the finish. Drink and a touch of carob. Drink through 2018. W. Direct. vors finish creamy and oaky, but this still holds the through 2018. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. —M.S. line and is perfectly balanced for the long haul. Best abv: 14% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $49 from 2016 through 2022. Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. Lapostolle 2012 Canto de Apalta Cellar Selec- Santa Ema 2012 Amplus One (Peumo). abv: 15% Price: $180 91 tion (Rapel Valley). From a warm vintage, 90 Early aromas of menthol and oak settle on this blend is ripe yet still balanced, with aromas of floral red berry scents and woodspice. The flavor Caliterra 2012 Edición Limitada B (Colchagua prune, blackberry, tree bark and leather. The pal- profile of black cherry and berry is initially narrow, 92 Valley). Deep, pure cassis and red berry aro- ate is saturated and broad, boasting flavors of dark, but with time rounds out to deliver a bright, pleas- mas are integrated and thorough. This Bordeaux- baked, black fruit accented by pepper and chocolate ant overall character. The blend consists of 75% style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, on the finish. Drink now. Terlato Wines Interna- Carmenère, 25% Syrah and 5% . TGIC Cabernet Franc and Merlot is racy, tight and hard- tional. —M.S. Importers. —M.S. driving, with bold berry, pepper, baking spice and abv: 14.1% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $24 chocolate flavors. A toasty, peppery finish is juicy, forward and long. Drink through 2020. Seaview Im- Santa Ema 2011 Rivalta Limited Selection Santa Ema 2011 Catalina (Maipo Valley). ports. —M.S. 91 (Maipo Valley). Herbal and earthy up front, 90 With tight, crisp aromas of berry fruit, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carme- toast, mineral and mint, this Cabernet Sauvignon nère and Malbec brings notes of green tobacco and blend is high toned—coming across racy and snap- Viña Bisquertt 2010 Tralca (Colchagua Val- black olive to the front along with toasty oak. The py. Jumpy, lively plum and raspberry flavors are 92 ley). Reedy, berry aromas come with a shot palate is tight and crisp, with choppy tannins. Fla- backed by leafy, herbal notes and resiny oak. A spicy of eucalyptus, which is very Chilean. A tight, tannic, vors of toasty oak and berry fruit compote finish mint finish concludes this energetic yet oaky blend. dry palate is exact and intense. Flavors of leafy and resiny, with juicy, zesty acidity. Drink through 2021. Drink through 2021. TGIC Importers. —M.S. slightly herbal black fruits are matched by licorice TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50 and coffee notes, while the finish is long, dry, snap- abv: 13.5% Price: $85 py and loaded with earthy spice notes and hints of Primus 2012 The Blend (Colchagua Valley). olive and mint. Drink through 2019. Prestige Wine Santa Rita 2010 Triple C Estate Bottled Red 89 Subtle aromas of marzipan and cola yield to Group. —M.S. 91 Wine (Maipo Valley). For full review see page overriding prune and raisin scents on this extremely abv: 14.5% Price: $100 9. ripe, almost overripe blend. Soft and spongy on the abv: 14.5% Price: $40 palate, with berry and prune flavors, this shows Antiyal 2012 Maipo Valley. Earthy, ripe and smoke and toast notes on a low-pulse finish. Drink 91 a touch mulchy smelling at first, this blend Viña San Vicente 2012 Coordenada Lircay Cab- now. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. comes around to show full plum and berry scents. 91 ernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Maule Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $20 The palate is bulky—a reflection of a warm vintage. On the nose, this blend is leathery and earthy. Bold Ripe berry notes house chocolate and fig flavors, berry and cassis flavors on the palate are amplified MontGras 2013 Quatro (Colchagua Valley). with a touch salt finishing it off. Drink through by strong notes of baking spice and chocolate, while 88 Ripe aromas of black cherry and blackberry 2019. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. the finish is oaky and shows moderate complexity. come with hints of leafy herbs and a shot of alcohol. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Drink through 2019. TasteVino Selections. —M.S. This four-grape blend is well structured but a touch abv: 14% Price: $35 tannic. Flavors of baked black fruits, herbs and ol- Caliterra 2011 Edicion Limitada A (Colchagua ives finish savory, with plenty of unabsorbed oak. 91 Valley). Attractive tobacco, cedar, graphite, Viña San Vicente 2011 Lukai (Maule Valley). Palm Bay International. —M.S. coconut and blackberry aromas are an ideal invita- 91 Despite showing hickory and barbecued aro- abv: 14% Price: $15 tion to this balanced, full-bodied blend of Malbec, mas of wood spice, smoked meat and stewed dark Carmenère, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Flavors of fruit, this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend is Ninquén 2012 Antu Mountain Vineyard Cab- blackberry, mocha, fig paste, spice and chocolate firm and tight in the mouth, with smacking acid- 88 ernet Sauvignon-Carménère (Colchagua finish dark, ripe and slightly soft. Drink through ity. Herbal, lightly woody flavors of spice and earthy Valley). Cola and earthy berry aromas float over a 2018. Seaview Imports. —M.S. berry fruits finish bold, with olive and green tobacco slightly herbaceous note. This blend is narrow and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 notes. Drink through 2022. Private Reserve. —M.S. tannic on the palate, with berry, spice and herbal abv: 13.5% Price: $71 flavors. The finish shows pleanty of oak in the form Casas del Toqui 2010 Codigo del Toqui of mocha and coffee flavors. Palm Bay International. 91 (Cachapoal Valley). Dark berry, mineral and Maquis 2010 Lien (Colchagua Valley). This —M.S. baked notes control the nose on this blend of Caber- 90 racy, fresh, cool-vintage blend is a touch abv: 14.5% Price: $19 net Sauvignon, Carmenère, Petit Verdot and Syrah. rubbery on the nose, with berry and cassis under- This is full, round and firmly tannic, with oaky, tones. A tight palate delivers a mix of dark plum, Estampa 2013 Estate Red Blend (Colchagua minty flavors of black fruits and licorice root. Mo- blackberry, baking spice and chocolate flavors in 87 Valley). Earthy and herbaceous black fruit cha, tobacco, chocolate and coffee flavors are nice front of a peppery, dry, crisp finish. Drink through aromas come in front of a broad, ripe palate. Fa- on the finish. Drink through 2018. W. Direct. —M.S. 2019. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. miliar notes of blackberry, herb and chocolate fin- abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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ish with power and juicy acidity. American Estates apple, lemon and nectarine finish on a popcorn note Santa Rita 2013 Medalla Real Gran Reserva Wines, Inc. —M.S. imparted by oak. Thiénot USA. —M.S. 86 Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). Pear and vanilla abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 aromas are modest on the nose. The palate is round, boasting melon and apple notes that finish rather Santa Rita 2013 Secret Reserve Red Blend Santa Alicia 2014 Gran Reserva de Los Andes abruptly. Palm Bay International. —M.S. 85 (Maipo Valley). Red berry aromas with 88 Chardonnay (Maipo Valley). Straightfor- abv: 14% Price: $18 touches of earth and cola form the nose of this ward apple and melon aromas are lightly oaky, but Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend. The linear, mostly clean and elegant. This Chardonnay deliv- Lomas del Valle 2013 Coastal Cool Climate chalky palate is textured, while flavors of berry ers a fresh, clean palate, with a mix of oak, vanilla, 85 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Pleasant fruit, coffee and cola lead to a short finish. Palm Bay banana and melon flavors. A round, properly sized melon and pear aromas show sea-spray notes as International. —M.S. and balanced finish is the final piece of framework. the wine breathes. The palate is fresh and coastal in abv: 13% Price: $12 Halby Marketing. —M.S. feel, with green melon and tropical fruit flavors that abv: 13.5% Price: $15 finish a touch salty. W. Direct. —M.S. Ninquén 2012 Antu Carignan-Syrah (Maipo abv: 13.5% Price: $16 84 Valley). An austere bouquet brings hints Santa Ema 2013 Reserve Chardonnay (Leyda of red fruit and citrus. The palate is full and heafty 87 Valley). Pear and melon aromas get a boost Veramonte 2013 Chardonnay (Casablanca with oak. A mix of buttery oak and underripe red from the barrel, but ultimately the nose on this 85 Valley). Baked apple, butterscotch and fruit flavors finish raw in feel and herbal in flavor. Chardonnay is simple. In the mouth, things run toasty popcorn aromas feed into a soft, creamy pal- Palm Bay International. —M.S. smooth. Barrel-related flavors of spice, hickory and ate that’s low on acidic spine. Oaky, sweet flavors abv: 14% Price: $19 toast dominate white-fruit notes, while the finish is of candied apple and toffee finish long, soft and oaky but balanced in feel. TGIC Importers. —M.S. chunky. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. Veramonte 2013 Red Blend (Central Valley). abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 84 Overripe jammy plum and berry aromas dominate the nose. The palate is almost cloying, Caliterra 2013 Tributo Single Vineyard Char- Santa Alicia 2014 Reserva Espiritu de Los and heavy with candied berry flavors on the finish. 86 donnay (Casablanca Valley). Due to heafty 84 Andes Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Maipo Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. oak treament, the aroma of popcorn dominates the Valley). This simple Chardonnay is tropical fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $12 nose, and the palate is broad and creamy. Flavors of driven, with a floral aroma and a twang of resiny apple, pear, melon and raw oak show a dusting of oak. The palate seems slightly disjointed in feel, MontGras 2013 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon- powdered sugar, with a long, toasty, vanilla-laden briny in flavor and citric on the finish. Halby Mar- 83 Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of under- finish. Seaview Imports. —M.S. keting. —M.S. brush and leather dominate a rustic nose. The pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ate tastes briny, with underripe berry flavors that finish candied and herbaceous. Palm Bay Interna- Errazuriz 2012 Aconcagua Costa Wild Fer- Rayun 2014 Chardonnay (Central Valley). tional. —M.S. 86 ment Chardonnay (Aconcagua Valley). Aro- 83 This has a plump, yeasty, leesy feel, with abv: 14% Price: $12 mas of corn and underripe fruit dominate the nose, tropical fruit and lychee aromas. Flavors of bread while the palate is broad and oaky, boasting notes of and white fruit unfold on the palate, with notes of popcorn and white fruits. Good acidity from coastal banana and papaya on the finish. Vintner Select. CHARDONNAY vineyards gives it life, but overall it’s woody and a —M.S. bit vegetal. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9 Concha y Toro 2013 Marques de Casa Concha abv: 13.5% Price: $25 89 Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). This opens with Terrapura 2013 Chardonnay (Curicó Valley). a blast of resiny oak, but airing calms things down, Leyda 2014 Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). Ap- 83 Oily white-fruit aromas are basic, while the and ultimately the bouquet is round and full, with a 86 ple and citrus aromas carry the simplistic palate has a round mouthfeel and decent acidity. mix of wood, vanilla and tropical fruit aromas. This nose. A narrow, acidic palate is pure and juicy, with Flavors of brine, white melon rind and citrus fin- is chalky, minerally and full in feel, accented by ap- lean, slightly green, citrus flavors that finish tangy, ish pickled and bitter. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. ple, pear, melon and spice flavors. Leftover oak and with notes of orange and lime. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 savory spice flavors dominate the finish. Excelsior abv: 14% Price: $16 Wines. —M.S. Santa Rita 2012 Reserva Chardonnay (Casa- abv: 14% Price: $23 Leyda 2013 Single Vineyard Falaris Hill Char- 82 blanca Valley). A tropical fruit aroma drives 86 donnay (Leyda Valley). Dusty apple, oak and the nose while the round palate brings flavors of Santa Ema 2013 Amplus Chardonnay (Leyda waxy aromas precede a juicy, ocean-influenced pal- lemon and melon pith. Palm Bay International. 89 Valley). Leesy, toasty opening aromas ac- ate. Flavors of pineapple and mango cover the tropi- —M.S. cent melon, flower blossom and stone fruit scents. cal side of the fence, while grassy notes and a touch abv: 13.5% Price: $13 This is woody but healthy in feel, with acidic lift. of bell pepper bring vegetal hints. On the finish, cit- Flavors of resiny, briny melon and peach finish with rus and apple flavors skid along on a wave of cutting a wave of barrel-driven vanilla, but overall this acidity. Winebow. —M.S. SAUVIGNON BLANC shows coastal freshness and proper balance. TGIC abv: 14% Price: $17 Importers. —M.S. Veranda 2013 Quinel Vineyard Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Montes 2013 Alpha Chardonnay (Casablan- 87 Blanc (Bío Bío Valley). The bouquet is fairly 86 ca Valley). The nose hints at green aromas neutral, but the palate is tangy and citrusy, with Arboleda 2013 Chardonnay (Aconcagua of cool-climate fruits underneath heavy oak. This cutting acidity. A mix of tart citrus and mild green 88 Costa). Dusty apple, mild citrus and vanilla feels linear on the palate, while flavors of clove, pyr- flavors set up the finish that’s laced with hints of aromas come in front of a round, slightly oily feeling azine and tart apple lead to a slightly oaky finish. bell pepper and green bean. Drink immediately. Sa- palate with bright acidity. Flavors of orange, green TGIC Importers. —M.S. ranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $18

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Viña Bisquertt 2014 La Joya Gran Reserva and peach flavors. The finish is light and easy. Old essence returns on the palate, with sulfuric bitter- 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). Bright Bridge Cellars. —M.S. ness on the finish. W. Direct. —M.S. and zesty on the nose, this wine boasts an aromatic abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 emphasis of passion fruit and citrus. The palate shows tension, with ringing acidity, while lime, Santa Rita 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Rayun 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Val- green mango, grapefruit and passion fruit flavors 84 (Casablanca Valley). Green fruit aromas, 82 ley). This is plump and mildly citrusy in finish fresh and racy. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. grassy notes and hint of sulfur define the bouquet feel, with dull peach, melon and nectarine flavors. abv: 13% Price: $14 on this herbaceous wine from a cool vintage. Bell A flat and flabby finish doesn’t do much to aid the pepper, pea and green bean flavors finish with a hint short finish. Vintner Select. —M.S. Santa Alicia 2014 Reserva Espiritu de Los An- of tropical fruit. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 86 des Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Valley). Clean aromas of mineral-infused citrus are Root:1 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca fresh on the nose. This is zesty on the palate, with Sierra Batuco 2014 Reserva Estate Bottled 82 Valley). The nose shows little fruit against flavors of lime and tangerine, and a lively, mineral 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). This is persistent matchstick aromas. The palate is zesty finish. Drink now. Halby Marketing. —M.S. mild on the nose, with soft scents of white-fruit but also pithy, while flavors of citrus turn sulfu- abv: 13% Price: $12 and sulfur. The palate lacks definition and feels ric and bitter before hollowing out on the finish. disjointed. Flavors of green apple, stone fruits and Winebow. —M.S. William Fèvre 2012 Quino Blanc Sauvignon herbaceousness end in a swirl of green, pithy, bitter abv: 12.5% Price: $12 86 Blanc (Malleco). This wine is all about its flavors. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. restrained mineral character, with hints of honey- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 François Lurton 2014 Hacienda Araucano comb and grassy herb on the nose. It’s elegant in 80 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Lolol Valley). feel but the palate is modest and is focused toward Terrapura 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó Aromas of vanilla cookie and mealy fruit are slightly simple citrus. This is a new selection from William 84 Valley). Grassy aromas of green melon and offputting. A palate with yeasty notes and a tropi- Fèvre; let’s see what future vintages bring. Copa white pepper feed into a plump yet citrusy palate. cal banana flavor yields a creamy, unbalanced finish. Fina Imports CA. —M.S. Slightly pyrazinic and mildly bitter, underripe green Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $36 melon and grapefruit are the lead flavors. Quintes- abv: 13% Price: $13 sential Wines. —M.S. Montes 2014 Classic Series Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Tololo 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). 85 (Casablanca Valley). Green aromas and 80 The palate is flat and low on acid. Pithy citrusy scents are a touch sulfuric. This is light in Veramonte 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Casa- white fruit flavors and a dull almond note form the body, with citric acidity fueling the machine. Fla- 84 blanca Valley). Earth and matchstick define palate. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. vors of celery, green fruits, tangerine and white the nose of this easygoing wine. The palate is quiet, abv: 13% Price: $10 pepper finish with scallion and thyme notes. TGIC with low-intensity flavors of passion fruit and citrus Importers. —M.S. that finish mildly pithy. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 WHITE BLEND

Santa Rita 2013 Medalla Real Gran Reserva Viña San Vicente 2013 Geiser Tatio Reserve Errazuriz 2012 The Blend Collection White 85 Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). A piercing 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). Vanilla 87 (Aconcagua Valley). This white blend is ma- opening of nettle and green fruits gives way to a wafer, slightly mealy apple and citrus aromas open ture, waxy and peachy on the nose. A round palate crisp, round palate. Flavors of brine, tart fruits and this slightly unfocused wine. The palate is flat, with features nectarine and waxy citrus flavors that are citrus are stunted. A fresh, lean, zesty finish tastes flavors of green fruit and citrus that finish abruptly. authentic for Roussanne-Marsanne wines. Long on overwhelmingly green. Palm Bay International. TasteVino Selections. —M.S. the finish, this is decidedly pithy and also mildly —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12 bitter as it exits. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 François Lurton 2013 Hacienda Araucano Caliterra 2013 Tributo Single Vineyard Sau- 83 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Lolol Valley). 84 vignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Match stick, Mealy aromas suggest that this wine is past its peak. URUGUAY tropical notes and green banana aromas make up The palate is unbalanced, with flavors of bell pepper the nose. This is dilute in feel, with a hint of generic and green fruit, showing hints tropical fruit. Drink TANNAT tropical fruit. Drink now. Seaview Imports. —M.S. now. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $13 Pisano 2012 RPF Tannat (Progreso). Black- 89 berry and plum aromas come with wood- Casa Silva 2012 Cool Coast Sauvignon Blanc Porta 2014 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Bío Bío smoke, spice and exotic notes. The palate is full, 84 (Colchagua Valley). Green notes of jalapeño 83 Valley). This wine leads with vanilla over rubbery and bouncy in feel. Flavors of ripe plum pepper blend with passion fruit on an extreme nose. characteristic varietal notes. The palate is spritzy, and boysenberry are oaky and loamy, while the fin- The high-acid palate is bracing, with flavors of sour while modest flavors of nectarine and citrus finish ish piles on generous amounts of toast, graphite, apple and citrus. Vine Connections. —M.S. light. Saranty Imports. —M.S. licorice and black-fruit decadence. Drink through abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $12 2020. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23 Chilensis 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Rios de Chile 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 84 (Maule Valley). Dull, dilute aromas of va- 83 (Leyda Valley). Vegetal aromas outmuscle Artesana 2012 Tannat (Canelones). Jammy nilla cookie and apple are a fair introduction to a the wine’s green fruit character. A plump, round 88 blackberry and boysenberry aromas are bland, plump-feeling palate with simple green-fruit mouthfeel offers only mild acidity, while the vegetal fruity and full. This modern-style Tannat shows a saturated, tannic palate that’s jammy in the cen- ter. Flavors of dark fruit, toasty oak and mint finish

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with hints of graphite, rubber and leftover oak-re- acidity to keep it fresh and lively. Saranty Imports. are flat-out sour, while the finish is citric and raw. lated char. Drink through 2018. Deschere’s Selected —M.S. Saranty Imports. —M.S. Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $46 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13.9% Price: $16 Pisano 2012 Cisplatino Tannat-Merlot (Pro- Garzón 2012 Varietales Tannat (Uruguay). 87 greso). This bright, bold blend of Tannat and WHITE WINES 88 Ripe, sun-baked berry aromas are toasty Merlot is direct on the nose, with lemony oak, pen- and charred on the nose. This feels big, grabby and cil lead and berry aromas. It’s a full, weighty, warm Bouza 2012 Albariño (Montevideo). A good tannic, but also jammy and generous. Flavors of ripe wine with flavors of blackberry, cassis and choco- 89 example of South American Albariño, this black fruits are widespread, with a touch of salti- late tinged with citrus. Oaky notes, with a licorice wine shows aromas of leesy buttercup, acacia, va- ness on the back end. That salt character carries flavor and heat, drive the finish. Saranty Imports. nilla, grassy citrus and apple aromas on the nose. onto a big, jammy finish. Drink now. Blends Inc.. —M.S. The energetic palate comes on strong with apricot —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 and nectarine flavors which move to nutty and leesy abv: 13.8% Price: $20 tones on the finish. Elixir Wine Group.Editors’ Pisano 2010 RPF Cabernet Sauvignon (Pro- Choice. —M.S. Pisano 2011 Río de los Pájaros Reserve Tan- 87 greso). Cassis, raisin and an oak-based note abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 nat (Progreso). Fresh berry aromas are jam- of plastic are the key aromas. This Cabernet is wide my and floral on the nose. This is bright, snappy and and blocky on the palate, with choppy tannins. Garzón 2013 Varietales Albariño (Uruguay). convincing on the palate, with peppery black-fruit Earthy, raisin flavors are ripe and sweet tasting, 86 Waxy aromas of melon and lees maintain flavors. Yes, it’s a bit fierce and punchy in feel, but while a jammy finish is full of mixed berry flavors. freshness and are typical for the variety. The palate it’s also crisp and fresh, with a meat-friendly acidic Saranty Imports. —M.S. is fresh and citrusy in feel, while flavors of green cut. Drink through 2017. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22 melon and apple stay tight on the finish. Wine Spo- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ken Here. —M.S. Artesana 2012 Tannat-Merlot (Canelones). abv: 13.4% Price: $17 Pisano 2010 RPF Tannat (Progreso). Con- 86 Stewed aromas of berry fruit and leather 88 centrated, ripe aromas of blackberry and with green notes get this Tannat-Merlot blend go- Pisano 2013 Río de los Pájaros Reserve Tor- cassis come with an undertone of raisin. This is ing. Lively acidity and tannins create an aggressive 80 rontés (Progreso). Aromas of Pine-Sol, pet- tannic and lively on the palate, with juicy acidity. mouthfeel, while flavors of vanilla and baked berry rol and juniper bush are not too inviting. An astrin- Flavors of dark fruits are satisfying but short on fruit finish round. Deschere’s Selected Wines & gent, citric palate makes for a tough palate that’s depth and complexity, while the finish is compact Spirits. —M.S. marked with harsh citrus and passion fruit flavors, and tannic, with dark-fruit flavors. Drink through abv: 13.9% Price: $16 followed by a pithy, sour finish. Saranty Imports. 2016. Saranty Imports. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Pisano 2011 Río de los Pájaros Reserve Caber- abv: 13% Price: $17 86 net Sauvignon (Progreso). Stalky red-berry aromas blend with tones of earth and leather on the RED BLENDS nose. This is tomatoey, herbal and approachable on OTHER SOUTH AMERICA the palate, with loamy, lightly baked flavors of black Bouza 2011 Monte Vide Eu Tannat-Merlot- plum and berry fruit. The finish is round and easy- BRAZIL 90 Tempranillo (Montevideo). Bouza ranks as going. Saranty Imports. —M.S. one of Uruguay’s top wineries, and this blend of abv: 14% Price: $16 Lidio Carraro 2011 Agnus Merlot (Serra Gaú- Tannat, Merlot and Tempranillo is rich, smooth and 88 cha). Cherry, plum and earth aromas form a balanced. Aromas of cassis, raisin and leather find Pisano 2010 RPF Pinot Noir (Progreso). Red sound bouquet. This Merlot is full, round and well their groove with the help of airing, while baked, 86 fruit and leafy aromas set up a solid palate. balanced. Flavors of black fruits are helped along ripe flavors of cassis and pastry finish well. Drink Flavors of plum, raspberry and cherry are tart at by integrated spice and earth tones, while the fin- now. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. first, then more peppery and oaky. Peppercorn, co- ish shows ripeness and a smooth texture. Winebow. abv: 15.5% Price: $57 coa and hints of heat and bitterness control the fin- —M.S. ish. Overall this is a good Pinot Noir from a country abv: 13% Price: $15 Familia Deicas 2004 Preludio Barrel Select not known for the variety. Saranty Imports. —M.S. 90 Lote N 77 (Juanico). This mature Bordeaux- abv: 14% Price: $22 Salton NV Gerações José Bepi Salton Vision- style blend is earthy on the nose, with tobacco, clay 84 ário Edição Limitada Sparkling Wine (Brazil). and loamy berry aromas. Despite its age, the palate Pisano 2011 Río de los Pájaros Reserve Pinot Dusty, bread aromas are short on fruit. This feels is still showing red-fruit acidity matched against 84 Noir (Progreso). An opening of smoky to- coarse on the palate, with scouring bubbles. Cidery ripeness and weight. A mix of dried berry, tomato, mato sauce, tea and earthy berry fruit turns leath- flavors fold in apple and white grapefruit, while the tobacco, spice and salty flavors finish loamy and ery and more earthy with each passing minute. This finish is firm. —M.S. smooth. Drink now. S Selections. —M.S. has a lean body and sharp acidity, which creates a abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $45 tangy flavor profile that includes tomato and plum. A light, zesty and earthy finish is par for the course. Pisano Arretxea 2009 Estate Bottled Grand Saranty Imports. —M.S. MEXICO 88 Reserve Red (Progreso). Ripe aromas of rai- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 sin and cassis come with creamy oak scents. This is Vena Cava 2011 Big Blend (Valle de Guada- jammy, deep and concentrated on the palate, with Pisano 2011 Río de los Pájaros Reserve Tannat- 84 lupe). This five-grape blend is heavy, oaky tobacco, earth, fig, cocoa and baked berry flavors. 81 Syrah-Viognier (Progreso). Roasted berry, and green at its core. Aromas of cassis and raisin The finish is earthy and baked, but boasts enough black olive and barnyard aromas seem shrill and out suggest ripe fruit, but the palate is acidic, with of balance. Flavors of boysenberry and cherry pie shaky balance. Flavors of blueberry and boysenber-

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 ry are minty, while licorice tones and jammy weight a subtle smoky spice tone to the finish. Pacific High- ductive notes of honey-drizzled apricot, peach pre- define the finish. La Mision Associates. —M.S. way Wines & Spirits. —L.B. serves, baked apple, orange oil and honeycomb. It’s abv: 13.9% Price: $27 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 full and unctuous, but not flabby, with beautiful lifting acidity that keeps the palate fresh. The long, Vena Cava 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle de Graham Beck 2009 Premier Cuvée Méthode sticky finish boasts a gorgeous honeyed spice flavor. 83 Guadalupe). Initially this Cab smells grassy 87 Cap Classique Brut Rosé (Western Cape). A It’s delicious now, but it’s also a wine that will eas- and downright green, yet berry aromas rise up after blend of 82% Pinot Noir and 18% Chardonnay, this ily age another decade or more. Kysela Père et Fils. time in the glass. An awkward, heavy palate is home faint copper-colored sparkler opens with upfront Editors’ Choice. —L.B. to heavily oaked berry flavors that finish creamy and aromas of toasted red apple, orange peel and straw- abv: 10% Price: $37/375 ml thick. La Mision Associates. —M.S. berry hull. The medium-weight palate offers attrac- abv: 13.3% Price: $27 tive mousse and fresh, bright flavors of crunchy small-red berries and apple flesh. Drink now. Mari- PORTUGAL Vena Cava 2011 Tempranillo (Valle de Guada- time Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. 83 lupe). Raw, woody aromas are forceful to the abv: 12% Price: $18 RED WINES point of smelling like a timber mill; in addition, the nose is fiery and herbal, with minty berry aromas. A Van Loveren NV Christina Van Loveren Mé- DOURO disjointed palate features bulky plum and red-berry 87 thode Cap Classique Limited Release (Rob- flavors as well as a green tinge, while a finish with ertson). A blend of 86% Chardonnay and 14% Pi- Caves Aliança 2008 Quinta dos Quatro Ven- heavy oak and raisiny fruit delivers Baja’s patented not Noir, this is a subtle and delicate méthode cap 93 tos Reserva (Douro). Almost ready to drink, saltiness. La Mision Associates. —M.S. classique. Notes of pear flesh, red apple and orange this wood-aged wine is packed with herbs, dark ber- abv: 13.8% Price: $27 rind unfold on the nose and mouth. The palate is ry fruits and the first signs of secondary spice and fresh and lively, thanks to medium acidity and brisk leather flavors. The tannins are still powerful and carbonation, while a hint of toast graces the finish. need to soften further, so drink this complex, con- SOUTH AFRICA Z Wines USA. —L.B. centrated wine from 2016. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $41 SPARKLING WINES Graham Beck NV Méthode Cap Classique Poças 2012 Reserva (Douro). A big, ripe and Graham Beck 2009 Premier Cuvée Blanc de 86 Brut (Western Cape). Here’s a balanced, 93 spicy wine, this is packed with woody notes 89 Blancs Brut Méthode Cap Classique (Robert- accessible and attractive sparkler that should be as well as powerful fruit. It has solid tannins and son). This bright and well-balanced sparkler leads relatively easy to find, with more than 11,000 cases dark flavors of bitter chocolate and black cherries. with attractive aromas of fresh lemon and orange imported. Fresh aromas and flavors of green apple, It’s rich and concentrated, with good aging poten- slices, lightly toasted brioche and subtle fynbos orange peel and cracker are framed by lively acidity tial. Drink from 2018. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. herbs. The palate is creamy and smooth, with crisp and high carbonation. Vibrant and mouthwatering, abv: 14% Price: $28 acidity and medium carbonation that lifts and re- drink this now. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. freshes the finish. Delicious now, or hold through —L.B. Castello d’Alba 2012 Vinhas Velhas Grande 2017 for a more mature character and additional abv: 12% Price: $17 92 Reserva (Douro). Rui Madeira’s flagship red depth. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. is a formidable, powerful wine. It has intense tan- abv: 12% Price: $26 Simonsig 2012 Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé nins that are surrounded by dark fruits and rich, 86 (Stellenbosch). The Kaapse Vonkel (mean- juicy acidity. The core is dry, concentrated and Desiderius Pongrácz NV Méthode Cap Clas- ing Cape Sparkle in Afrikaans) Brut Rosé is a blend dense, and the wood aging shows against the back- 88 sique Pinot Noir-Chardonnay (Western of 53% Pinot Noir, 45% Pinotage and 2% Pinot ground of ripe fruits, promising good aging poten- Cape). This is an easy and clean sparkling wine, with Meunier. It’s a subtle selection, offering delicate tial. Drink from 2018. Grape Moments. —R.V. attractive aromas of red apple, orange and dried hay. notes of rose, Asian pear, lemon custard and white abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Bright, brisk carbonation results in a lively and re- strawberry. The palate is creamy yet brisk in me- freshing palate. A citrus-rind flavor lingers on the dium carbonation, ending light and fresh. Quintes- Poças 2012 Vale de Cavalos (Douro). Still softly toasty finish. Drink now. Z Wines USA. —L.B. sential Wines. —L.B. 92 dark and dense, this young wine has power abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 and structure on its side. The tannins and concen- trated firm texture promise aging, allowing the big Avondale NV Armilla Brut Méthode Cap Clas- Graham Beck NV Méthode Cap Classique Brut black fruits to be released. Made from vines in the 87 sique (Coastal Region). This 100% Chardon- 85 Rosé (Western Cape). An attractive pale- Douro Superior; drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Imports. nay MCC leads with rich, toasty notes of brioche, salmon color, this pretty sparkling rosé offers scents Editors’ Choice. —R.V. baked apple and soft nuttiness. The palate is round of peach pit, lime peel, strawberry hull and melon abv: 14% Price: $18 and full, with brisk carbonation but a fine mousse, rind that transfer seamlessly to the brisk and lively and flavors of Honeycomb cereal and lime zest. En- palate. High carbonation and bright acidity keeps Quanta Terra 2010 Terra a Terra Reserva joy now. International Spirits & Wines, LLC. —L.B. the finish fresh and mouthwatering. Drink now. 92 (Douro). A fine blend of the classic Douro abv: 11.5% Price: $25 Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. grapes gives a complex and dark wine that’s firm abv: 12% Price: $17 in tannin but also offers ample fruity richness. The Boschendal NV Méthode Cap Classique Brut wood aging has started the process of smoothing the 87 Rosé (Western Cape). An interesting blend of tannins, working towards a ripe, full-bodied wine. 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinotage and 20% Chardon- SWEET WINE Drink from 2016. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. nay, this sparkling rosé boasts bright aromas and Editors’ Choice. —R.V. flavors of watermelon rind, strawberry hull, peach Mullineux 2013 Straw Wine Chenin Blanc abv: 14.5% Price: $25 pit and citrus rind. It’s soft and approachable, with 95 (Swartland). Made from 100% air dried Chenin Blanc, this is a remarkably well-balanced, Quinta da Romaneira 2011 Tinto (Douro). knock-your-socks-off effort, loaded with lush, se- 92 A solid, firm wine with a great rapport be-

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tween the black berry fruits, juicy acidity and dark Quinta Seara d’Ordens 2011 Talentus Grand just the right amount of backbone to a wine that’s tannins. It has a fresh element along with a power- 91 Escolha (Douro). Seara d’Ordens is a quinta full and fruity. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. ful structure and dense mineral texture. It will age at the western end of the Douro region. This rich abv: 13% Price: $12 well, so drink from 2017. —R.V. and polished wine is full of black fruits, with herbal abv: NA Price: $NA overtones and layers of wood aging that have left Quevedo 2012 Oscar’s Tinto (Douro). This is espresso flavors. With this concentration, the wine 88 a ripe and smooth wine, full of berry fruits Quinta do Sagrado 2007 Reserva (Douro). In needs to age for several years; drink after 2017. Holi- and the lightest touch of tannins. It’s juicy, with 92 the ownership of the Cálem family since the day Beverage. —R.V. minerality and fine, long-lasting acidity. It’s perfect- 19th century, Sagrado produces firmly structured abv: 13.5% Price: $75 ly placed to go with pasta dishes. Drink this friendly wines. This dark and dense example is only just wine now. P.R. Grisley Company. Best Buy. —R.V. ready to drink. It is a powerful and juicy wine, full Wines & Winemakers 2012 Aguia Moura em abv: 13% Price: $12 of opulent black fruits that are balanced by acidity. 91 Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Douro). This is a juicy, Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. dense wine from João Silva e Sousa and Francisco Quinta do Sagrado 2010 Sagrado Tinto abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Baptista that is packed with dark, steely tannins. A 88 (Douro). This is a solidly structured wine. field blend of 10 Douro red varieties, with 12 months It is firm, full of ripe tannins and equally rich fruit. Castello d’Alba 2012 Reserva (Douro). This is of wood aging, it’s ripe in sweet, rich red fruits that Blackberry fruits and spice go with the dark tex- 91 a young, firm and seriously tannic wine that are balanced by intense acidity. Still young, the ture of the wine. It needs some aging, so drink from will need several years to age. It has structure, a wine will be better from 2017. Best Brands Incorpo- 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. sense of the tough terrain of the upper Douro. Con- rated. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 centrated and dense, it’s a wine that will develop; abv: 14% Price: $18 best after 2017. Grape Moments.Best Buy. —R.V. Borges 2012 Quinta da Soalheira (Douro). A abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Quinta Seara d’Ordens 2010 Reserva Vinhas 87 fruity style of Douro wine, perhaps miss- 90 Velhas (Douro). This is a powerful wood- ing the tannins but with generous black fruits and Caves Aliança 2010 Quinta dos Quatro Ventos aged wine that is currently exhibiting dark choco- ripe berry flavors. Acidity and a streak of minerality 91 (Douro). From the eastern vineyards of the late and coffee flavors from new, smoky oak. It’s the combine to give the final tight texture. Drink now. Douro, in Douro Superior, this estate wine is heavily weight of the juicy fruit underneath that reveals Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. structured while showing rich fruit and impressive the promise of aging. There is a mineral texture abv: 13% Price: $13 tannins. The texture is strongly mineral, complex that shows the schist soil of the vineyard, all part and hinting at the concentration from fruit grown of the dense mix. Drink from 2018. Holiday Bever- Caves Aliança 2013 Foral (Douro). While the in this hot, dry climate. Drink from 2016. Tri-Vin age. —R.V. 87 wine is soft and almost ready to drink, it Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $59 does also have the Douro mineral texture and dry abv: 14% Price: $22 tannins. The Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) dominates, Ramos-Pinto 2012 Duas Quintas (Douro). giving the wine its round and rich character. Drink Quevedo 2011 Cláudia’s Reserve (Douro). A 90 Still young, but promising good things, this now or wait until 2016 for the tannins to soften fur- 91 ripe, tannic and herbal wine, this has been is a ripe and balanced wine. It’s a blend of grapes ther. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. produced for aging. It shows a dark tannic side over from two Douro vineyards (Duas Quintas), giv- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 the juicy black plum fruits and berry flavors. The ing black fruits, a strong sense of minerality and a wood aging shows in the way the wine smoothes dark texture. The end promises aging and drinkabil- Caves Transmontanas 2010 Grande Reserva out at the end, leaving a rich, full-bodied aftertaste. ity from 2016. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. 87 (Douro). Rustic, earthy aromas lead to a Drink from 2016. P.R. Grisley Company. Editors’ —R.V. wine that’s dominated by dark tannins and bitter Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 chocolate flavors. That leaves little room for the rich abv: 13% Price: $23 berry fruits that are struggling to come through. Al- Borges 2011 Reserva (Douro). This is a firm- low time for this toughness and firm extraction to Quinta de la Rosa 2011 Tinto (Douro). This is 89 ly structured wine, solidly tannic and still soften. Drink from 2016. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. 91 a smooth and generous wine. It is rich, full- developing. Big black-fruit flavors have set their abv: 14% Price: $27 bodied and packed with dark plum flavor, but it’s mark on the texture while the dry core brings out the ripe, velvet character that is so appealing. It’s al- the schist soil of the Douro vineyards, giving a tough Conceito Vinhos 2012 Contraste Tinto (Dou- most ready to drink, although the firm tannins and sensation that needs to soften. Drink from 2016. 87 ro). This is a tannic and mineral driven wine minerality at the end suggest it will be better from —R.V. that is firm and solidly textured. It is full of ripe 2016. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA black fruits along with dry tannins and a concen- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 trated structure. The acidity of this balanced wine Quinta da Romaneira 2011 Sino da Roma- keeps the freshness going and also suggests aging Quinta do Portal 2011 Mural Reserva Red Wine 89 neira (Douro). The third wine of Quinta da potential. Drink from 2016. Vin de Terra Imports, 91 (Douro). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. Romaneira is made to be drunk young. The aim has Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12 succeeded here, as this is a ripe and smoothly tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 tured wine. It has richly satisfying notes of black Quinta do Sagrado 2008 VT ’08 (Douro). plum and soft, already well-integrated tannins. Quinta do Portal 2012 Colheita (Douro). Al- 91 This wine is a fine exposition of the structure Acidity shines through at the end. Drink now. —R.V. 86 ways an enjoyable wine, the new vintage of and density of a serious Douro wine. A field blend, abv: 13% Price: $NA Portal’s Colheita doesn’t disappoint. It is soft, ripe it is packed with dark berry fruits and sweet tan- and fruity, with attractive red berry flavor and lively nins, with a strong mineral element that reflects the Poças 2012 Coroa d’Ouro (Douro). This open, acidity. The wine has been smoothed by wood aging, tough schist of the vineyards. It’s drinkable now, 88 generous wine is great for drinking now. It resulting in a rounded texture that makes it ready to but the wine will be better in 2016. Michael Skurnik has juicy black cherry and plum characteristics and drink now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. a delicious line of fresh acidity. Its structure gives abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $47

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Sobredos 2011 Aneto Tinto (Douro). The Caves Aliança 2011 Aliança Reserva (Bairra- Quinta de Lemos 2009 Dona Santana (Dão). 85 wine is ripe and very full in the mouth. With 87 da). The local Baga grape makes an appear- 91 All four of Dâo’s indigenous red grapes— tannins that are enveloped by rich black fruit, it is ance in this blend, creating a firm texture with solid Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfro- already drinkable. Dense plum and strawberry fla- tannins. Its rich, dense core is dark and brooding in cheiro—are in this blend. It is rich and fruity wine, vors are generous, with a touch of pepper. It is ready character, but could soften out with age. Drink after showing a lightly perfumed character against ripe to drink. Matadorvino LLC. —R.V. 2015. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. black fruit tones. Drink now. MHW, Ltd. Editors’ abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Campolargo 2011 A Jovem Calda Bordaleza BAIRRADA 86 (Bairrada). Bordeaux grapes dominate the Caves Aliança 2011 Quinta da Garrida (Dão). blend of this fruity and young wine. It has soft tan- 90 A year in the barrel has given this powerful Campolargo 2008 Vinha da Costa (Bairrada). nins, velvet in texture, and shades of juicy black- wine structured, yet polished tannins. While still 91 Merlot and Syrah join Tinta Roriz in this currant on the palate. The finish is brightened by a young, it is powered by ripe red berry notes and impressive wine. A fermentation in open lagars as streak of acidity, giving it a light and fresh feeling. driving juicy acidity. It’s a wine for further aging, so well as time in oak give this blend richness and a Drink now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. drink from 2016. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. deliciously juicy. Ripe and full bodied, it is ready to abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 drink. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $58 Magnum Vinhos 2012 Ribeiro Santo (Dão). DÃO 89 Currently this wine is overpowered by very Campolargo 2010 Diga? Tinto (Bairrada). strong tannins, leaving fruit tones slightly hidden. 90 Rich and finely balanced, this wine com- Quinta de Lemos 2009 Jaen (Dão). The Jaen Once the dark tannins and the bitter chocolate fla- bines spice notes with rich tannins and blackberry 93 grape is specific to the Dão region of central vors have smoothed out, there will be a chance for tones. While it is dense and complex, it is still young Portugal, where it can produce dense wines with the concentrated black fruit tones to shine through. and needs time to age. Drink after 2015. M Imports, enormous color. This 2009, still surprisingly young Drink from 2017. —R.V. LLC. —R.V. for the variety, is dark, concentrated and generous, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $58 with sweet black plum notes balanced by hints of oak and lively acidity. This wine is worth holding Caves Aliança 2011 Aliança (Dão). This wine Caves Aliança 2009 Aliança Baga (Bair- onto. Drink after 2015. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. 88 shows the characteristic granitic texture of 90 rada). Baga, a grape unique to the Bairrada abv: 14.5% Price: $32 the region. Berry fruits smother the firm tannins to region, has a reputation for producing tough wines give a rich, juicy wine that’s bold, ripe, and ready to when young. This wine, however, shows the poten- Quinta de Lemos 2009 Tinta Roriz (Dão). drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. tial of aging the variety. Ripe and rich in character, 93 Tinta Roriz is one of the grapes that is abv: 13.5% Price: $8 this wine marries powerful blackberry tones with very much at home on the granite soils of the Dão. brooding, structured tannins. It could still age fur- Here winemaker Hugo Chavez produces a struc- Pedra Cancela 2011 Touriga Nacional (Dão). ther, but the wine is very drinkable now. Tri-Vin tured, densely tannic wine, swathed with loads of 88 Initially the wine seems aromatic, soft and Imports. —R.V. red fruit, with acidity to balance. This 100% Tinta smooth, however dark tannins soon appear. It’s a abv: 14% Price: $41 Roriz is a powerful wine, needing more aging. Drink dense wine, boasting a firm core of blackcurrant from 2016. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. tones and considerable acidity. It will need some Campolargo 2011 Baga (Bairrada). Firm and abv: 14.5% Price: $32 aging, so drink from 2017. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. 89 dense, this is a fine example of the Baga abv: 14.5% Price: $28 grape. It gives both juicy blackberry and red berry Pedra Cancela 2010 Seleção do Enólogo notes, with a solid layer of firm tannins. It has the 92 (Dão). This lightly wood-aged wine is power, the structure and the acidity to see some- slightly austere in style, with plum and blackberry LISBOA time in the cellar. Drink after 2016. M Imports, LLC. tones providing weight. Some tannins and acidity —R.V. accompany its fine, fruity core, giving a more seri- Herdade do Rocim 2010 Reserva (Lisboa). In abv: NA Price: $28 ous note to this wine. Drink from 2018. Wine In- 93 its powerful, heavy bottle, this is a power- Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. ful, rich wine that is impressively dense and con- Campolargo 2010 Pinot Noir (Bairrada). This abv: 13.5% Price: $11 centrated. Ripe red and black fruit flavors mingle 87 wine has rough, earthy aromas on the nose, alongside dark chocolate tones, supported by struc- while the palate brings the fruit alongside gentle Quinta de Lemos 2009 Alfrocheiro (Dão). tured tannins. Age this impressive wine and drink tannins. The wine is still young and needs time 92 The rich, fruity core of this 100% Alfro- after 2015. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. to gain great depth and richness. M Imports, LLC. cheiro wine is given polish and weight from time abv: 13.5% Price: $37 —R.V. spend in a barrel. The fruit at the heart is dense, abv: NA Price: $32 showing hints of dark chocolate and spice flavors, Herdade do Rocim 2010 Vale de Mata (Lis- supported by structured tannins. This wine is ready 92 boa). From a small parcel of land on the Campolargo 2010 Entre II Santos (Bairrada). to be consumed now. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. slopes of the Serra de Aire hills, this firm textured, 87 There is a solid, tannic core in this Baga- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 cool-climate wine shows structure and depth. The dominant blend. It gives a smoke and blackcurrent fruit weight is concentrated with plum and juicy flavored wine, with a firm layer of dry tannins and Caves Aliança 2011 Aliança Reserva (Dão). black currant flavors, rotating around a dry core intense acidity. The wine is well structured, but 91 This is a fine wine, with great structure and of tannins. Age this complex wine and drink after needs time to age. Drink after 2016. M Imports, ripe fruit. Dark tannins, a tense mineral texture and 2015. Langdon Shiverick. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. blackberry tones are all there, giving a wine that’s abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 rich and full bodied. Drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Im- ports. Best Buy. —R.V. Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2009 Aurius (Lisboa). abv: 14% Price: $10 91 This is firm and solid wine is a blend domi-

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nated by tannic Touriga Nacional. Ripe berry fruits Casa Santos Lima 2013 Quinta das Amoras Quinta Vale do Armo 2011 Vale do Armo on the palate offer juicy acidity for balance, and a 86 Tinto (Lisboa). Strongly influenced by the 90 Reserva (Tejo). This is a rich, wood-aged perfumed hue gives character and nuance. This Atlantic breezes of the region, this cool, fruity wine wine, with smoky aromas and a strong spiciness. On impressive wine needs to age, so wait until 2016. is an intriguing blend of Castelão, Tinta Muida, Ca- the palate, the wine is ripe, full of black fruits and Winebow. —R.V. marate and Touriga Nacional. Red fruit and fresh firm tannins. The blend of Touriga Nacional, - abv: 14% Price: $35 berry flavors are accented by light oak tones of spice gonez and Syrah has a fine perfumed character, with and smokiness. Drink now. HGC Imports. Best Buy. generous structure and delicious acidity. Drink after Casa Santos Lima 2012 Cigarra Reserva Shi- —R.V. 2015. European Wine Imports. —R.V. 90 raz-Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). The ripe fruit abv: 13% Price: $7 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 of this Shiraz and Touriga Nacional blend exude a character of richness and sophistication. Dusty tan- Casa Santos Lima 2012 Cigarra Shiraz-Tinta Quinta Vale do Armo 2011 Vila Jardim Tinto nins provide the framework for red fruit flavors and 86 Barocca Portuguese Red (Lisboa). In the 87 (Tejo). Merlot and Syrah are added to Por- the generous structure. From José Luís Santos Lima family for more than a century, Casa Santos Lima is tuguese varieties to give a solid and fruit-driven Oliveira da Silva’s range, the wine would be best af- one of Portugal’s larger producers. This is a bold and wine. Rich berries and generous tannins are domi- ter 2015. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. fruity wine, very forward in its juicy berry flavors nant partners, with juicy acidity giving balance. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and soft tannins. A touch of oak aging has lifted the a wine that is ready to drink, full of fruit and gener- fruit, given it an extra richn and round character. ous. European Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Casa Santos Lima 2012 Reserva do Monte Drink now. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12 90 (Lisboa). This structured and dense wine abv: 13% Price: $13 hails from the steep, sloping hills of the Lisboa re- Quinta Vale do Armo 2011 Valle Zangão gion. While aged in Portuguese oak, which provides Casa Santos Lima 2012 Lab (Lisboa). Named 85 (Tejo). This wine shows shows characters spice and dark tannins, the delicious black fruit 86 after the family Labrador, this soft and of berry fruits and soft tannins, matched by juicy core is not overpowered. Drink now–2016. HGC Im- fruity wine is quite approachable now. With ripe acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend gives the ports. Best Buy. —R.V. tannins, layers of rich berry fruit and a soft texture, structure while Trincadeira and Aragonez provide abv: 13.5% Price: $10 this is a classic barbecue wine. HGC Imports. Best the smooth fruits. Drink now. European Wine Im- Buy. —R.V. ports. Best Buy. —R.V. Casa Santos Lima 2010 Palha Canas (Lis- abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 89 boa). Big, bold and fruity, this dense wine has rich, red berry fruits and firm tannins its the Casa Santos Lima 2012 Passion of Portu- Quinta Vale do Armo 2010 Vila Jardim core. While ripe and fruity, there is a hint of salty 85 gal Reserva (Lisboa). Having spent time in 85 Touriga Nacional (Tejo). This wine shows sea spray from a cool maritime influence. Drink oak, this is a ripe and soft wine that is generously juicy, ripe fruit without much structure. Full of red now. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. proportioned. The opulent texture is cut by bright fruit, smoke tones and considerable acidity, this is abv: 13.5% Price: $10 acidity and juicy red berry flavors. Drink now. HGC a drink-now sipper. European Wine Imports. —R.V. Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Aluado Alicante Bouschet abv: 13% Price: $8 89 (Lisboa). An unusual bottling of 100% Ali- Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2012 Colheita Se- cante Bouschet, this big, bold wine shows primary DFJ Vinhos 2013 Brigando (Lisboa). A big- 84 leccionada (Tejo). Very ripe, juicy and spicy, red and blackberry tones supported by soft tannins. 85 hearted wine, displaying ripe red berries this is a forward, fruity wine that should be con- Drink now through 2019. Lionstone International. lifted by a lively acid undercurrent. It has gentle sumed within the year. It has rich plum and jam —R.V. tannins and a full, juicy aftertaste. Drink now and flavors, light tannins and a soft aftertaste. Iberian abv: 13% Price: $15 enjoy with barbecue. Lionstone International. —R.V. Wine Importers. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $15 Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2010 Lybra Syrah 89 (Lisboa). Juicy black fruits push through Casa Santos Lima 2012 Portas de Lisboa (Lis- Caves Aliança 2013 Vista (Terras da Beira). bold tannins, giving a ripe character to this gener- 81 boa). A wine that is rustic and barnyard in 84 From the Aliança vineyards, this ripe and ous wine. Lively acidity preserves both the fresh- character, it displays tough tannins matched by fruity wine is made for immediate drinking. Its ness and its future. Drink now through 2018. mild fruit tones. It is not likely to improve with age. fresh berry fruits are sustained by gentle tannins Winebow. —R.V. HGC Imports. —R.V. and a structure that is already rounded. Tri-Vin Im- abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $7 ports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2009 Têmpera Tinta 89 Roriz (Lisboa). This smooth and rich wine TEJO shows deliciously ripe and fruity character. Weighty PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL berry fruits support ripe tannins, and give way to Quinta Vale do Armo 2011 Vila Jardim Escolha a pleasant balance of fruit and acidity. Drink now 91 (Tejo). This is a rich and ripe wine, dense- Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2010 Má Partilha through 2018. Winebow. —R.V. ly textured with firm tannins that provide a solid 91 Merlot (Península de Setúbal). High density abv: 13.5% Price: $30 structure. Made from selected fruit grown in the planting of a vineyard on the slopes of the Azeitão north of the Tejo region, the blend of 60% Ara- mountains has produced a rich and seriously dense Casa Santos Lima 2013 Portuga (Lisboa). gonez, 25% Syrah, 15% Merlot is a textured wood- wine. It has enormous amounts of spice, oak-aged 86 This dark, dense wine is concentrated, but aged wine that has red and black berry fruits fol- flavors and bitter tannins. The red fruits are lost at shows bitter and burt extraction notes from oak lowed by balanced acidity. It is ready to drink, but this stage in the welter of other flavors. but with aging. Fruit tones are currently lacking but should will improve after 2015. European Wine Imports. time its true, impressive colors with shine. Drink show more prominently in two years. Drink after —R.V. after 2016. Grape Expectations (CA).Editors’ 2015. HGC Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8 abv: 14.5% Price: $25

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 JP Private bodied juicy aftertaste. Drink now, but the wine will Cortes de Cima 2011 Incógnito Syrah (Alente- 89 Selection (Península de Setúbal). A 10 be better after 2015. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. 91 jano). This Syrah-based wine is dense, con- month stint in oak has given this rich wine a seri- abv: 14% Price: $40 centrated and seriously ageworthy. It is weighted by ously spicy character supported by dark chocolate concentrated black fruit, with solid tannic structure and black fruit flavors. Syrah, Castelão and Caber- Marcolino Sebo 2009 Visconde de Borba and fine acidity on the finish. Drink after 2016. Tri- net Sauvignon give this young wine tannins and a 87 Reserva (Alentejo). Fermented in open stone Vin Imports. —R.V. dark texture that needs to soften. Drink after 2016. lagars, this wine shows a smooth, rounded and very abv: 14% Price: $60 Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. rich character. Sweet wood flavors suggest vanilla, abv: 14% Price: $15 while the tannins are fine, dense and attractively Herdade Paço do Conde 2010 Colheita Selec- spicy. The aftertaste, with juicy black fruits, adds 91 cionada (Alentejano). Rounded and smooth, Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Serras de balance to the wine. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old this generous blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah, 88 Azeitão Seleção do Enólogo (Península de World Import. —R.V. is rich and perfumed. It has an immediately appeal- Setúbal). There is a satisfying blend of Merlot and abv: 14.5% Price: $17 ing ripe and fruity character, with plenty of black Syrah with Aragonez and Touriga Nacional to give fruit and dark cherry tones supported by juicy acid- a fruity wine that also manages to retain a strongly J. Portugal Ramos 2013 Marquês de Borba ity. Solid and chunky, this wine needs to age and tannic structure. It’s ripe, full in red fruit tones and 86 Tinto (Alentejo). A juicy, ripe wine that’s would be best after 2016. Marsalle/Stoler Company. can be drunk early, but will be better after 2015. full of bright red fruit, with a layer of spice and —R.V. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. wood. This iconic brand in Portugal is a fruity, abv: 14.5% Price: $33 abv: 14% Price: $NA friendly wine, with firm tannins to keep it right in line. Winebow. —R.V. J. Portugal Ramos 2012 Ramos Premium Vinho José Maria da Fonseca 2012 Periquita Reser- abv: 14% Price: $15 91 Tinto (Alentejano). For full review see page 8. 88 va (Península de Setúbal). Wood aging gives —R.V. this Reserva in the Periquita range an elegant and Roquevale 2009 Reserva (Alentejo). This is abv: 14% Price: $20 smooth texture. It’s rich on the palate, while allow- 85 a smooth, light and fruity wine that is ready ing plenty of room for spice and blackberry fruit to drink. It has red berry fruit tones, with a sweet, Cortes de Cima 2012 Aragonez (Alentejano). over a layer of firm tannins. This is a finely struc- lightly tannic character and a juicy, mature after- 90 A bold, rich wine fringed with tannins, at a tured wine that can age for another year. Palm Bay taste. It’s soft and fruity, with bright acidity at the young age it already shows a solid structure of ripe International. —R.V. end. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. and juicy berry tones. With well-balanced oak ag- abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 ing, slightly toasty notes show restraint on this dark and complex wine that has potential to age. Drink José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Periquita Origi- Marcolino Sebo 2013 Visconde de Borba after 2016. Tri-Vin Imports.Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 85 nal (Península de Setúbal). This is an open, 84 (Alentejo). This is a fruity wine housing abv: 14% Price: $24 soft and ready-to-drink wine. With red fruits, soft soft tannins and red berry fruit notes. It’s rounded tannins and bright acidity that demands food, its and smooth, with streaks of vanilla highlighting the Herdade de São Miguel 2012 Herdade da warm, easy and approachable. Palm Bay Interna- finish. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. 90 Pimenta (Alentejano). This is a solid wine tional. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. with herbal, minty aromas and an opulent struc- abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $7 ture. Showing power and complexity, the rich body is full of juicy blackberry notes, with striations of Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 JP Azeitão acidity. Drink this powerful wine after 2017. Saraiva 84 Tinto (Península de Setúbal). Made mainly ALENTEJANO Enterprises. —R.V. from Setúbal’s Castelão grape, this is a fruity, ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $18 wine that is juicy, yet light bodied. Red fruits and Dona Maria-Júlio Bastos 2009 Dona Maria spice propel a wine that is ready to drink. Grape Ex- 92 Reserva (Alentejano). Produced from old Herdade do Rocim 2012 Mariana Tinto pectations (CA). —R.V. vines, this is an impressive wine, rich and dense. 90 (Alentejano). There is a rich blend of Ara- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 It brings together dark tannins and opulent black gonez, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Syrah in fruits that cushion the firm structure. A lively acid- this full, ripe, black-fruit tinged wine. It is already Wines & Winemakers 2013 Dona Helena ity and a silky character show that the wine is ready open and generous, with wood spice tones and a 84 Castelão (Península de Setúbal). A dark to drink. Grape Moments. —R.V. smooth texture. Drink now through 2018. Langdon wine from the most widely grown red grape in Por- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Shiverick. Best Buy. —R.V. tugal, the indigenous Castelão is rich and even now abv: 14% Price: $15 ready to drink. With its dense texture, red berry Herdade do Rocim 2011 Vinho Tinto (Alente- fruits and spice flavors, it’s a forward food-friendly 92 jano). This estate wine is seriously struc- Monte da Penha 2009 Vinho Tinto (Alente- wine. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. tured, with tones of dried herbs alongside richer 90 jano). This is a rich and smooth wine, full abv: 13% Price: $12 elements of dense tannins and ripe black fruits. A of impressively ripe fruit tones without going over bright acid backbone maintains a fresh and lively the top. Bright acidity brings balance and elegance, character. It might be best to lay down this selection with juicy berry flavors rounding out the palate. ALENTEJO for further integration. Langdon Shiverick. Editors’ Drink now through 2019. Gabriella Fine Wines. Choice. —R.V. —R.V. Roquevale 2009 Grande Reserva Portu- abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 guese Red (Alentejo). This is a powerful and ripe wine that is full of tannins that are now mature Herdade Paço do Conde 2009 Reserva (Alen- Monte da Penha 2009 Reserva (Alente- enough to support the broad, ripe black-fruite char- 92 tejano). For full review see page 6. 90 jano). Dominated by the Trincadeira and acter. A blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and abv: 14.5% Price: $53 Aragonez grapes, this is a super-smooth, ripe wine Tinta Calada, it has a dense structure, with a full- from northeast Alentejo. Oak aging has rounded out the tannins, with generous red fruit driving the pal-

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ate. Already completely integrated, this wine needs Sauvignon in the blend, the tannins are strongly full of soft, open and generous fruit. Its weight and no further aging to be pleasantly enjoyed. Gabriella present, however the delicious fruit tones are decid- richness are balanced by a tart blackcurrant acidity. Fine Wines. —R.V. edly in charge. Drink now. Grape Moments. —R.V. Drink now. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $10

Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Monte Herdade Paço do Conde 2012 Vinho Tinto Quinta do Mouro 2011 Vinha do Mouro (Alen- 89 das Anforas (Alentejano). All the heat of 88 (Alentejano). For full review see page 13. 87 tejano). This wine’s berry-fruit character the Alentejo is encapsulated in this wine. It is rich, abv: 14% Price: $18 us supported by solid, ripe tannins. The texture is dense, and warmly ripe, with gentle tannins that soft, rounded and ready to drink. Langdon Shiver- wrap around the fruit structure. Red berry and Monte Branco 2012 Alento (Alentejano). ick. —R.V. spice, with lively acidity offers a well-rounded wine 88 While the wine is rich, it does show a more abv: 14% Price: $17 that will be ready to drink after 2015. Grape Expec- austere side, with tight acidity balancing superripe tations (CA). Best Buy. —R.V. fruit tones. Big berry flavors are contrasted by ripe Roquevale 2011 Tinto da Talha (Alentejano). abv: 14% Price: $7 tannins and a chalky, firm texture. This wine might 87 This is a firm and serious wine, with dark need to age, so drink after 2015. Langdon Shiverick. tannins behind the rich black fruit tones. The solid Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Quinta do —R.V. structure is likely to smooth out with time to give a 89 Carmo Tinto (Alentejano). This is a power- abv: 14% Price: $14 ripe and juicy wine. Drink from 2015. Vintage Im- ful and dense wine, displaying dry, concentrated ports, Inc. —R.V. tannins over tart black fruit tones. Bitter chocolate Wines & Winemakers 2011 Album Reserva abv: 13.5% Price: $13 flavors are also evident from the oak aging. It might 88 (Alentejano). This blend of Syrah, Petit need time to balance out—drink after 2016. Grape Verdot, Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet shows Cortes de Cima 2012 Touriga Nacional (Alen- Expectations (CA). —R.V. power, with dense tannins shouldered by ripe 86 tejano). This wine has a hot character, full abv: 14.5% Price: $25 black fruit flavors and a solid structure. From the of spice and overripe fruit. Black plum notes com- Estremoz region of the Alentejo, it’s a powerhouse bine with a strongly toasty character that needs Caves Aliança 2011 Alabastro Reserva (Alen- of flavors and juicy acidity. Drink after 2016. Iberia time to soften. It is rounded and rich, with mild 89 tejano). A dark and richly dense wine, this Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. freshness at the end. Drink from 2016. Tri-Vin Im- is packed with black fruit notes and concentrated abv: 14% Price: $23 ports. —R.V. tannins. Aged in French and American oak, it has a abv: 14% Price: $45 strongly spicy character, with bright acid and a solid Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Tinto da An- tannic structure. Drink after 2015. Tri-Vin Imports. 87 fora (Alentejano). A regiment of 12 months Herdade Paço do Conde 2013 Herdade das Al- —R.V. in oak has smoothed out the tannins, and created 86 bernoas (Alentejano). Bold, ripe and fruity, abv: 14.5% Price: $22 an instantly drinkable wine. Red fruit tones provide this is a young wine that will be ready to drink soon. a soft and rounded texture that contributes to this It has blackberry notes laced with bright acidity to Herdade de São Miguel 2013 Colheita Selec- wine’s approachable character. Grape Expectations balance the rich palate. Already delicious and ap- 89 cionada (Alentejano). This is a soft wine, (CA). Best Buy. —R.V. proachable, this is a generous wine with a fresh af- smoothly textured and rich, with concentrated and abv: 14.5% Price: $11 tertaste. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. ripe black fruit tones. While there is a dry core, it is abv: 14% Price: $13 the generosity of the surrounding fruit that makes Cortes de Cima 2011 Petit Verdot (Alente- this an eminently drinkable wine. Saraiva Enter- 87 jano). This traditionally hard-to-ripen Bor- Monte da Penha 2009 Montefino (Alente- prises. Best Buy. —R.V. deaux grape thrives in the hot Alentejo climate. 86 jano). This is a soft and juicy wine, with abv: 14% Price: $13 Here it has produced a dark colored, very dense and ripe red fruit notes and a gentle, tannic structure. superripe wine, full of juicy berry and black plum It is open and generous, showing plenty of acidity José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Ripanço Private tones. While perhaps one dimensional, it certainly to sustain its freshness. Gabriella Fine Wines. —R.V. 89 Selection (Alentejano). Using Ripanço, an packs a solid punch. Drink after 2016. Tri-Vin Im- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA old technique of destemming the grapes after har- ports. —R.V. vest with wooden rods, the wine has intense color abv: 14% Price: $45 Ribafreixo 2012 Gáudio Clássico (Alente- and a smooth, rich character. It is rounded and soft, 86 jano). This big and powerful wine shows with a light layer of tannins offering backbone to the Dona Maria-Júlio Bastos 2008 Dona Maria well-integrated oak tones under dense, superripe generous fruitiness. Drink after 2015. Palm Bay In- 87 Amantis Reserva (Alentejano). The combi- black fruit flavors. Bright acidity brings balance to ternational. —R.V. nation of Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional the richness, however a kick of alcohol remains on abv: 14% Price: $20 brings a firm, dry character in this wine. Earth- the finish. Sommelier Imports. —R.V. driven in flavor, hints of black fruit remain subtle, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Cortes de Cima 2012 Syrah (Alentejano). suggesting a wine that is not going to improve. 88 Very perfumed and dense, this is a struc- Grape Moments. —R.V. Roquevale 2009 Tinto da Talha Grand Es- tured, aromatic wine, full of dark berry tones and abv: 14.5% Price: $26 86 colha (Alentejano). This is a broad, rich fine acidity to balance. The dry texture and the solid wine that is ready to drink. Red berry notes and soft tannins promise some medium-term aging, so drink Herdade Grande 2012 Vinho Tinto (Alente- tannins push forward, bringing attractive acidity to after 2015. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 87 jano). This is a ripe, soft and juicy wine that freshen the palate. Drink now. Vintage Imports, Inc. abv: 14% Price: $24 is ready to drink. Warm blackberry tones are con- —R.V. trasted by a rich wood character and fresh, lively abv: 14% Price: $19 Dona Maria-Júlio Bastos 2011 Dona Maria acidity. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 88 (Alentejano). Already very approachable, abv: 14% Price: $17 Wines & Winemakers 2012 Album (Alente- this is a rich wine that still manages to preserve 86 jano). While the wine has richness typical its freshness, with acidity from the blackberry and J. Portugal Ramos 2013 Loios Tinto (Alente- of the Alentejo region, this blend of Syrah, Aragonez damson-fruit flavors. With Syrah and Cabernet 87 jano). This is a rounded and ripe wine that’s and Alicante Bouschet also has a sense of structure.

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 A strong mineral character is supported by red fruit tejo wine comes an earthy character that is less tones and ripe tannins. The taut texture suggests it attractive. There are juicy rhubarb and redcurrant ALSACE could age. Drink after 2015. Iberia Wine & Spirits tones, but they are engulfed by its rustic character. LLC. —R.V. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. RIESLING abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $8 Domaine Weinbach 2008 Cuvée Ste Cathe- Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Dom Mar- Marcolino Sebo 2010 QP Colheita Selecciona- 97 rine Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). 85 tinho (Alentejano). From a single vineyard 82 da (Alentejano). The wine has a rustic char- From one of the best recent Alsace vintages, this is in Estremoz, this structured and dense wine houses acter, earthy and unbalanced, with a strong pepper a superb wine, now approaching its apogee. It has notes of bitter chocolate and tart berry. It’s full of flavor from an alcoholic kick. Red fruit tones show a wonderful line in mature, steely and aromatic tannins and needs time to soften. Drink from 2016. strongly, while the tannins give a hard, tough edge. flavors that are merging into a wine that is lightly Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. Oak aging adds a smoky character on the finish. Ai- toasty, with the promise of many years’ further ag- abv: 14.5% Price: $11 dil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. ing. The aftertaste, with its mineral texture, shows abv: 14.5% Price: $13 how fruity this wine still is. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Dona Maria-Júlio Bastos 2009 Dona Maria Selection. —R.V. 85 Petit Verdot (Alentejano). This wine, with abv: 13.5% Price: $51 an almost black color typical of the variety, shows OTHER RED WINES soft, ripe tannins around juicy blackberry flavors. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Clos Saint It’s a rich, dense wine that suffers from high alco- Luis Pato 2010 Vinha Pan Baga (Beiras). This 96 Urbain Rangen de Thann Grand Cru Riesling hol, giving a hot, pepper aftertaste. Grape Moments. 92 is a rich, full-bodied and wood-aged wine, (Alsace). This is a grandiose wine from the most —R.V. produced from vines in the village of Panasqueira. It southerly of Alsace’s grands crus. It is rich, certain- abv: 14.5% Price: $26 has herbal and mint flavors, with black fruit tones ly, although in balance without any hint of excess. powered by structured tannins. It is impressive, A complex structure powers the intense fruits and Herdade de São Miguel 2013 Vinho Atlântico ripe, and still maturing. Best after 2016. Wine In- generous ripe yellow and citrus flavors. Concentrat- 85 (Alentejano). This wine is soft, fruity and Motion. —R.V. ed from low yields and old vines, this wine needs to ready to drink. Touches of spice, ripe berry tones abv: 13% Price: $40 age many years. Don’t touch before 2020. Kobrand. and generous acidity all work together to give an im- Cellar Selection. —R.V. mediately attractive wine. F.B. McDonald Imports. Wines & Winemakers 2011 Pegos Claros abv: 14% Price: $120 Best Buy. —R.V. 92 Reserva Castelão (Palmela). This is a finely abv: 13.5% Price: $7 perfumed wine, full of ripe Castelão grapes. It has a Trimbach 2009 Cuvée Frédéric Emile Ries- smooth, polished feeling from the wood aging, yet 96 ling (Alsace). A benchmark for Alsace Marcolino Sebo 2012 QP Vinho Tinto (Alen- still allows plenty of room for a dense black-fruit Riesling, Cuvée Frédéric Emile is released only as 85 tejano). A structured and aromatic wine, character. It will need to age and will be best after it approaches maturity, and this 2009 is just get- this is perfumed, solidly fruity and rich. It has great 2016. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. ting there now. With kerosene aromas and tight, in- weight, with berry flavors and a concentrated tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 tensely zesty and mineral flavors, it shows the Trim- ture. The wine could soften, so wait until 2016. Ai- bach approach—that Riesling needs to be bone dry. dil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. Rui Roboredo Madeira 2012 Beyra Reserva It’s impressive now, but will be even better from abv: 14.5% Price: $12 89 (Beira Interior). This is a wood-laden wine 2016. Esprit du Vin. Cellar Selection. —R.V. with a cool blackcurrant interior. The tannins and abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Marcolino Sebo 2011 QP Syrah (Alentejano). juicy fruit complement each other, giving fine acid- 85 This is a ripe and juicy wine, with smooth ity and a ripe character to this structured wine. Give Domaine Ostertag 2012 Muenchberg Grand tannins and a spicy, aromatic range of flavors. Pep- it another year for the wood to integrate further and 95 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Intense and rich, this per notes from the high alcohol gives a hot feel, drink after 2015. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. is impressive, ripe and full-bodied. It has a great however the acid structure works to bring the wine abv: 13% Price: $18 texture with the steeliness of Riesling embedded in back in balance. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World the richly fruity, concentrated floral and white fruit Import. —R.V. Quinta de Covela 2012 Covela (Minho). Com- flavors. Now at the stage where it is good to drink abv: 15% Price: $12 87 ing from a vineyard that overlooks the Douro for its fruitiness, it has much more to come. Best river, this is a firmly tannic wine. It has a stalky to wait until 2018. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Ribafreixo 2012 Barrancôa (Alentejano). texture, with a blackcurrent and herbal character, Cellar Selection. —R.V. 85 This is a ripe, wood-aged wine that is rich balanced by bright acidity. Drink now. David Bowler abv: 13.5% Price: $63 with dark plum and ripe berry tones. Its big, bold Wine. —R.V. character is primary and a far cry from subtle. Drink abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine Schoffit 2012 Rangen de Thann now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 95 Grand Cru Clos Saint-Théobald Riesling (Al- abv: 14% Price: $10 Luis Pato 2012 Natural Baga (Beira Atlan- sace). The steeply terraced Rangen de Thann Grand 85 tico). From winemaker, Luis Pato comes an Cru is one of Alsace’s great vineyard sites. Here, it Herdade do Rocim 2011 Touriga Nacional easy-drinking, natural wine made without the use of has produced a rich, not quite dry wine that’s in- 84 (Alentejano). Rustic in character, this sulfer. It is juicy and fruity showing red fruit tones tense and full in the mouth. It is powerful and com- wine shows a bit too much alcohol, manifested by and tangy acidity, tamed by ripe tannins. Drink now. plex, needing many years to develop fully. Drink burnt and pepper notes. The acidity works hard to Wine In-Motion. —R.V. from 2019. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. bring balance but ultimately is overpowered by the abv: 12% Price: $12 —R.V. weight of the wine. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $53 abv: 15% Price: $15 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Brand Grand Caves Aliança 2013 Alabastro (Alentejano). 95 Cru Riesling (Alsace). One of the great vine- 83 Along with the typical warmth of an Alen- yard sites of Turckheim, Brand has produced this

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exquisitely balanced wine. Its fruits showcase in- and needs time to mature. Drink from 2019. Gar- in the mouth but finely balanced. It has retained tense acidity with citrus, pink grapefruit followed gouille Collection. Cellar Selection. —R.V. plenty of freshness, the white fruits aromatic, min- by pineapple crispness. Overall, the tight texture is abv: 13% Price: $ eral and stylish. The ripeness gives an opulent style still in charge, giving a mineral, textured character. that leaves a powerful aftertaste. Drink from 2018. So it does need to age; drink from 2019. Kobrand. Boeckel 2012 Wiebelsberg Grand Cru Riesling Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 (Alsace). While it is dry, this wine is so rich abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $100 that it has a honeyed, sweet character. It is very full, ripe, full of grapefruit, white stone fruits and tight Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2012 Kirchberg de Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Kessler Grand Meyer lemon. It is still in its youthful fruity phase 93 Barr Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). The wine 95 Cru Riesling (Alsace). With its few years and needs to age. Drink from 2018. Wein Bauer Inc. is still young. It has spice, ripe fruitiness and a bottle aging, this is developing into a fabulous wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. full-bodied, rounded white fruit and intense citrus From one of the top grand cru vineyards in southern abv: 13.5% Price: $NA character. Textured and mineral, it’s still closed up, Alsace, it has richness while still preserving a light needing several years aging. Drink from 2017. Au- touch that brings out acidity and tight fruitiness. Boeckel 2012 Zotzenberg Grand Cru Riesling thentique Vin. —R.V. To contrast, the mineral texture adds a tense fac- 93 (Alsace). Mineral, closed and very tight, abv: 13.5% Price: $38 tor, very crisp and allowing the wine to age further. this is currently the epitome of young, potentially Drink until 2025. Maisons Marques & Domaines very fine Riesling. Citrus, pineapple and apricots are Domaine Weinbach 2013 Cuvée Théo Riesling USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. just hints among the steely, tense acidity and tangy 93 (Alsace). For full review see page 4. abv: 13% Price: $30 structure. Drink from 2018. Wein Bauer Inc. Cellar abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Selection. —R.V. Domaine Jean Sipp 2011 Kirchberg de Ri- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaine Zinck 2010 Eichberg Grand Cru Ries- 94 beauvillé Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This 93 ling (Alsace). With the first hints of matu- has light toastiness to match the intense peach Domaine Ehrhart 2011 Hengst Grand Cru Ries- rity on the nose, this is already a rounded and steely and green plum flavors and spicy, peppery texture. 93 ling (Alsace). The Ehrhart style is for rich wine. The fruit shows as spiced apples and black The wine’s full in the mouth, complex, still young wines and this impressive Grand Cru is no excep- currants, cut with intense citrus. But the fruit is and with a structure that promises great potential. tion. It has intense flavors of white fruits, lemon, giving way to a very precise, crisp and nervy wine Drink from 2019. Vin de Garde Wines. —R.V. spice and a hint of thyme. Its acidity balances that that could still age further. For its best, drink from abv: 13.5% Price: $24 richness, cutting a path that gives a great lift and 2018. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. leaves the wine fresh at the end. Drink from 2017. abv: 13% Price: $48 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Herrenweg Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 94 de Turckheim Riesling (Alsace). Tight and abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Clos Häuser- nervy, this is a steely, mineral, dry and complex 93 er Wintzenheim Riesling (Alsace). Beauti- wine. It is packed with crisp citrus, lemon juice Domaine François Schmitt 2011 Pfingstberg fully balanced, this conveys both rich fruit and squeezed over apple, and has a steely texture to 93 Paradis Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Paradis a tense, intense minerality. Combining the two match. It looks to the long term for aging. Drink is a parcel within the Pfingstberg Grand Cru, giv- strands impeccably, it brings out tangy apple and from 2018. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ing particularly fine and rich Riesling. This ripe pink grapefruit flavors and a steely, tight acidity. abv: 12.5% Price: $55 and full-bodied wine manages to preserve all the It’s a structured wine that needs to age. Drink from elegance and style of the grape while having full 2018. Kobrand. —R.V. Kuentz-Bas 2012 Trois Châteaux Pfersiberg tropical fruits, juicy acidity and a warm, rounded abv: 12.5% Price: $65 94 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). This is a young aftertaste. It will certainly age, so drink from 2017. wine, still setting out. Rich and dense, it will devel- Riahi Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Gustave Lorentz 2008 Altenberg de Ber- op impressive fruitiness while also bringing a tight, abv: 14% Price: $42 93 gheim Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes Riesling tense structure. Its acidity cuts right through the (Alsace). This late release, aging for five years, has impressive texture. It’s a wine for long-term aging; Domaine Jean-Luc Mader 2012 Rosacker produced a majestic wine. Its breadth of flavor, with drink from 2018 at the very earliest. Kermit Lynch 93 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). The chalk soil ripe fruits as well as intense structure, are gently Wine Merchant. —R.V. of the Rosacker vineyard has produced a rich, in- transitioning from the first flush of youth to a more abv: 13.5% Price: $48 tensely fruity wine that is shot through with steely mature character. Intensely textured, tight, ready minerality and a wonderful perfumed character. It’s to spring, it shows the beauty of maturing Riesling. René Muré 2012 Clos Saint Landelin Vor- so crisp and fresh while also being densely textured Drink now, although it will age many more years. 94 bourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Still and complex. The wine has a long future, drink from Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. young and chock full of acidity, it has considerable 2017. Elite Wines Import. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $61 potential. It’s a tight, bright wine, the lemon zest abv: 13.5% Price: $39 acidity still dominant. It’s going to be a major wine Josmeyer 2012 Le Dragon Riesling (Alsace). as it ages, keeping bone dry while developing its ar- Domaine Ostertag 2012 Heissenberg Ries- 93 Named for the dragon that supposedly omatic, beautifully fragrant side. Drink from 2019. 93 ling (Alsace). Rounded, rich and full in the fought against the sun in the Brand Grand Cru vine- Gargouille Collection. Cellar Selection. —R.V. mouth, this offers swathes of flowery, aromatic fruit yard, this ripe wine is full of fruit and has a dense, abv: 13.5% Price: $50 that is still young, still in its primary stage. With tense structure that will need time to reach poten- just a hint of steely texture, the wine does have tial. It is driven by its mineral texture as much as René Muré 2012 Côte de Rouffach Riesling structure and aging potential. For now, it is gener- the fruit, Drink from 2017. Domaine Select Wine 94 (Alsace). This ripe Riesling has a wonderful ous and delicious. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Estates. Cellar Selection. —R.V. aromatic character as well as ripe fruits. While it Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA does offer weight and full apple and citrus flavors, it abv: 13% Price: $48 also has a clear, dancing character that brings light- Trimbach 2011 Réserve Riesling (Alsace). For ness to the minerality and intensity. It is still young Domaine Schoffit 2011 Sommerberg Grand 93 full review see page 5. 93 Cru Riesling (Alsace). The wine is rich, full abv: 13% Price: $40

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Boeckel 2012 Brandluft Vieilles Vignes Ries- the greater depth. Drink from 2017. Kermit Lynch sideshow compared with the texture of the wine. 92 ling (Alsace). A parcel of old vines in the Wine Merchant. —R.V. Drink from 2017. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. Brandluft vineyard gives the typical concentration abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $34 and intense minerality to be expected from low yields. The wine is perfumed, with a bone-dry tex- Domaine Pfister 2010 Engelberg Grand Cru Joseph Fritsch 2013 Schlossberg Grand Cru ture and melon and orange fruitiness. It needs to 92 Riesling (Alsace). This is still young, a tight 92 Riesling (Alsace). The wine is crisp, packed age, so drink from 2017. Wein Bauer Inc. Cellar Se- wine with nervy acidity and very fresh fruitiness. A with grapefruit flavors and with a tight texture lection. —R.V. strongly mineral character from the chalk soil adds that suggests it could age. A tang and a steely acid- abv: 13% Price: $NA to the sense of dry, steeliness. It still needs to age, so ity comes in behind the fruit and offers an austere drink from 2017. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. aftertaste. Drink from 2017. Margaux & Company. Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2012 Praelaten- abv: 13% Price: $49 Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 92 berg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Soft and abv: 12.5% Price: $24 rich, this warm, rounded wine has concentrated Domaine Zinck 2011 Pfersigberg Grand Cru fruitiness along with a more tense mineral struc- 92 Riesling (Alsace). Floral aromas lead into a Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2012 Anne ture. Its pink grapefruit, ripe melon and zesty lemon rich, not quite dry wine that is beautifully ripe and 91 de K Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). flavors combine to give a wine that is only just set- perfumed. It is rounded and opulent while preserv- With its firm structure and strongly steely tenden- ting out. Drink from 2018. Vigneron Imports. Edi- ing the steely, mineral texture. Still young, it de- cies, this wine will repay aging. Orange citrus is tors’ Choice. —R.V. mands aging. Drink from 2017. HB Wine Merchants. woven into the texture of the wine, showing acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 —R.V. ity and a taut, tangy aftertaste. It will need time to abv: 13.5% Price: $48 come together, so drink from 2018. Total Wine & Domaine Charles Baur 2012 Eichberg Grand More. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 92 Cru Riesling (Alsace). A truly aromatic Ries- Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Riesling (Al- abv: 12% Price: $27 ling that has a wonderful series of fruit and spice 92 sace). This concentrated wine has weight perfumes. It’s ripe and full in the mouth, offering and richness while also showing a firm, very min- Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2012 Les Hospices a strongly mineral edge as well as rich apple and eral and tight texture. The green fruits, aromatic red 91 Riesling (Alsace). From vines farmed by Neu- citrus. Textured and still very tangy, the complex currants and tangy zest are partnered by young and meyer for the local Hospices de Molsheim charity, wine needs to age, so drink from 2017. Grape News exuberant freshness. It needs a few years to show its this intense wine has a ripe character that is already Importing. —R.V. paces, so drink from 2018. Kobrand. —R.V. rounding out its acidity. With minerality from the abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $26 chalk soil, it’s complex and will develop over several years. Drink from 2016. Wine Agencies Inc. —R.V. Domaine Ehrhart 2012 Schlosberg Grand Cru Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Calcaire Ries- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 92 Riesling (Alsace). This ripe, full wine has 92 ling (Alsace). As its name implies, this wine both great minerality and rich white fruits that are comes from chalk soil, giving both a strongly miner- Domaine Jean Sipp 2011 Vieilles Vignes Ries- aromatic as well as very fresh. The fruits are laced al character and ripe tropical fruit flavors. It’s rich, 91 ling (Alsace). The wine is intense, full in the with citrus to give a complex wine that deserves full in the mouth, dry but with such a ripe character mouth and rich. The warm, concentrated charac- aging. Drink from 2017. Robert Kacher Selections. there seems to be some sweetness. It’s impressively ter brings out both ripe fruits and minerality. The —R.V. full and ready to drink now. Kobrand. —R.V. result is a textured wine, tangy and citrus-driven, abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $55 that also has broad yellow fruits along with the final acidity. Drink from 2016. Vin de Garde Wines. Best Domaine Loew 2011 Bruderbach Clos des Hugel 2009 Jubiléé Riesling (Alsace). Part of Buy. —R.V. 92 Frères Riesling (Alsace). This is rich and 92 the impressive series of Jubilée wines that abv: 13% Price: $14 full-bodied, a splendid wine with its ripe yellow are aged before release, this Hugel Riesling is just fruits, intensely aromatic character and a pinch of getting to maturity with its soft aromatic character, Domaine Rieflé-Landmann 2012 Seppi Land- pepper. Concentrated, it finishes with a light touch touch of toastiness, and refreshing herbal flavors. 91 mann Zinnkoeplé Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). of toastiness that hints at the maturity to come. It’s now ready to drink, although it will be even bet- Perfumed and off dry, this rich wine has spice, Drink from 2016. Moreno Cabrera MCTC Import. ter from 2016. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cel- structure and a floral character. It is so young with Editors’ Choice. —R.V. lar Selection. —R.V. its white fruits, hint of lychee and lime-juice acid- abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $63 ity. The wine needs to age to reveal its potential. Drink from 2018. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. Domaine Ostertag 2012 Fronholz Riesling Jean Becker 2012 Mandelberg Grand Cru Ries- abv: 13.5% Price: $36 92 (Alsace). Fronholz is from a single vineyard, 92 ling (Alsace). The wine is pure minerality, a heady, perfumed wine with ripe, smooth under- tightly woven into a tense structure and fruits that Domaine Schoffit 2012 Lieu-dit Harth Tradi- tones. While there is plenty of acidity, it’s the opu- are still very young. It’s complex, allying fruit with a 91 tion Riesling (Alsace). An elegant, poised lent, ripe texture that comes right up front. A light texture that is steely and only developing slowly. It wine that’s bone dry, nervy and lightly fruity. The touch of honey and melon roundness give a creamy will be impressive as it ages. Drink from 2018. Ideal wine is balanced between its fresh acidity and ripe aftertaste. Drink now, but better from 2017. Kermit Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. fruitiness. With its bright texture, it’s a wine that Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA needs food. Drink from 2016. Weygandt-Metzler. abv: 13% Price: $47 Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Jean-Marc Bernhard 2012 Wineck-Schloss- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Domaine Ostertag 2012 Vignoble d’E Riesling 92 berg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). Still young, 92 (Alsace). Pure fruitiness with a deliciously the wine is very mineral, smoky and tight, with con- Domaine Schoffit 2011 Rangen de Thann Grand tangy texture mark this wine. It has a rich, juicy siderable structure and concentration. The apple 91 Cru Clos Saint-Théobald Riesling (Alsace). character with light spice to highlight the green and citrus fruits are attractive, although almost a Hugely ripe, this is a dense and potentially intense fruits and zesty bitter orange flavor. At the moment, wine. Its high alcohol brings out a disturbing pepper the wine is all fruit and it needs to age to bring out character that spoils the purity of the rich fruits and

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mineral texture. It shows the heat of the volcanic fumed, full of white fruit and very floral in charac- that could age a few months more. Robert Kacher soil of Ragen de Thann Grand Cru in its rich fruits ter. A thread of minerality runs through this still- Selections. —R.V. and ripe structure. It does need aging, so drink from young wine giving structure. Drink from 2017. Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $20 2017. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $53 abv: 14% Price: $26 Henri Schoenheitz 2012 Lindenberg Riesling 89 (Alsace). The granite soil of the Linden- Domaines Schlumberger 2011 Saering Grand Henri Schoenheitz 2010 Holder Riesling berg vineyard produces a wine that is steely, tight, 91 Cru Riesling (Alsace). The wine has a golden 90 (Alsace). Naturally low yields in a parcel packed with as much acidity and mineral texture as character, warm and ripe. Its rich fruits bring out within the Holder vineyard give concentration and fruit. It has layers of acidity and fruit over this firm, honeydew melon and pineapple as well as crisper great depth of flavor. The wine is still dominated by young structure. This complex wine needs to age, so orange zest. The structure and the rich texture are acidity, tense texture and a strongly steely charac- drink from 2017. Vinum Wine Importing and Dis- already all there, although it will develop well until ter. Dry, nervy, needing to age, the wine has poten- tributing LLC. —R.V. 2020. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. tial. Drink from 2017. Vinum Wine Importing and abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Distributing LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Biecher & Schaal 2013 Rangen de Thann Hubert Meyer 2012 Winzenberg Grand Cru 88 Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). A fragrant, 91 Riesling (Alsace). This is ripe and smooth, Jean-Marc Bernhard 2012 Vieilles Vignes fruity wine from the southernmost of the Alsace with a generous creamy texture. Spice and apple 90 Riesling (Alsace). The fruit from 40-year- Grand Crus. While it misses some of the grandeur combine to give a tangy edge that will soften and in- old vines is reticent about showing its character at of other wines from this vineyard, it has attractive tegrate as the wine ages. It’s full of potential. Drink this young stage. However, in two to three years, citrus and apple fruits and a hint of minerality. The from 2017. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Edi- the rich and concentrated citrus flavors and steely wine will age, so wait until 2016. Distinctive Do- tors’ Choice. —R.V. structure will take over and reveal a dense wine that maines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 is aromatic as well as serious. Drink from 2016. Slo- abv: 12.5% Price: $50 cum & Sons, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Jean Becker 2012 Froehn Grand Cru Riesling abv: 12% Price: $17 Biecher & Schaal 2013 Schlossberg Grand Cru 91 (Alsace). A steely, crisp and mineral Ries- 88 Riesling (Alsace). This complex wine has a ling from the Froehn vineyard in Zellenberg. Great Kuentz-Bas 2012 Trois Châteaux Riesling touch of sweetness allowing the fruit to be ready potential awaits in its tight aromatic fruits and 90 (Alsace). Ripe yellow fruits and fragrant to drink sooner. At the same time, it has structure, zesty acidity. It offers structure, flavors of citrus acidity dominate this bright, fruity wine. It has a strong minerality and a floral, fragrant character. and white currants from the organic grapes and a light touch of minerality and a tight steely texture Drink from 2015 or wait for the full effect until texture that demands aging. Drink from 2017. Ideal that is full of zest, giving a layered structure of fruit 2018. Distinctive Domaines. —R.V. Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. and acidity. The wine, one of the Kuentz-Bas biody- abv: 12% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $NA namic range, should age, so drink from 2016. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. Boeckel 2012 Brandluft Riesling (Alsace). Kuentz-Bas 2012 Collection Riesling (Alsace). abv: 12.5% Price: $32 88 This attractive, aromatic wine is bone-dry, 91 This deep and rich wine is as much about crisp and fresh. With its white fruits cut by a line of tense structure as about fruit. It’s a full-blown, very Trimbach 2012 Riesling (Alsace). For full re- steely acidity, it’s a tight, fragrant single-vineyard ripe wine that hasn’t lost one iota of elegance. From 90 view see page 11. Editors’ Choice. wine needing to age. Drink from 2016. Wein Bauer selected fruit, this is a serious wine for aging. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Inc. —R.V. from 2017. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $NA Choice. —R.V. Willm 2012 Kirchberg de Barr Grand Cru Ries- abv: 13% Price: $24 90 ling (Alsace). With its ripe and perfumed Domaine Charles Baur 2012 Cuvée Charles character, the wine is not quite dry. It’s already 88 Riesling (Alsace). This balanced wine is Boeckel 2012 Clos Eugénie Riesling (Alsace). maturing, with its fruity acidity muted by almonds, crisp, taut and mineral. It tastes very dry, packed 90 Named after Emile Boeckel’s great-grand- ripe pear skins and a tight, mineral texture. This in- with acidity and perfumed apple and lemon flavors. mother, Clos Eugénie is a parcel of vines on chalky tense wine will be ready by 2015. Monsieur Touton It’s quite ready to drink, but will be better from soil, producing this rich, full-bodied wine. A good Selection Ltd. —R.V. 2016. Grape News Importing. —R.V. tranche of minerality gives the wine an edge while abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 the lively fruits and acidity add brightness. Drink from 2016. Wein Bauer Inc. —R.V. Wolfberger 2013 Eichberg Grand Cru Riesling Domaine Jean Sipp 2012 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 (Alsace). This is an exceptionally young 88 Riesling (Alsace). With good concentration, wine, still tight, textured and mineral. The poten- this still-young Riesling has potential. It’s aromatic, Domaine Loew 2012 Bruderbach Clos des tial shows in the white fruits, lemon crispness and with hedgerow aromas, summer fruits and bright 90 Frères Riesling (Alsace). Ripe and full in rich background. It’s full of both fruit and a firm, acidity. There is a juicy background along with a the mouth, this is a yellow fruit and citrus flavored steely structure. Drink from 2017. Kysela Père et more textured character that is ready for that aging. wine. Tangy, salty and textured, it also has a rich Fils. —R.V. Drink from 2016. Vin de Garde Wines. —R.V. feel with its peach and kiwi accents. It’s a wine for abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 aging, so drink from 2017. Moreno Cabrera MCTC Import. —R.V. Domaine Ehrhart 2012 Herrenweg Riesling Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2012 Tradition abv: 13% Price: $29 89 (Alsace). On the rich side, this is a ripe and 88 Riesling (Alsace). A straight, clean, very fruity wine. Its mineral texture is comfortably cush- fruity wine that is bright, steely and crisp. It’s light, Domaine Rieflé-Landmann 2012 Seppi Land- ioned within an aromatic white fruit character that fresh, aromatic and full of white fruits, with a tight 90 mann Vallée Noble Riesling (Alsace). Pro- adds juicy acidity to the mix. It’s a delicious wine lemon-zest texture. Drink now. Authentique Vin. duced in the Vallée Noble sub-region in Soultzmatt, —R.V. this is ripe and powerfully rich. It is strongly per- abv: 13% Price: $26

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Domaine Zinck 2012 Terroir Riesling (Al- for a young wine from a Grand Cru, this is fruity, freshest acidity, sliced green apple flavors and a 88 sace). The clay soil of the vineyard has fresh and ripe. It offers white fruits and a tang of tight, tangy aftertaste. Margaux & Company. —R.V. produced a rich Riesling, full of ripe fruits that give marmalade orange peel, and displays the minerality abv: 12.5% Price: $17 a strongly perfumed, full-bodied character. It’s tex- of the vineyard. Drink from 2015. Distinctive Do- tured and still young, but will age gracefully and maines. —R.V. Kuentz-Bas 2012 Tradition Riesling (Alsace). quickly. Drink from 2015. Grantham Distributing. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 86 This is a delicate, fruity and very fragrant —R.V. wine. It is ready to drink, with its light and crisp abv: 13% Price: $18 Cave de Beblenheim 2012 Heimberger Vieilles acidity and shot of steel in the texture. The wine is 87 Vignes Riesling (Alsace). A perfumed wine fresh and refreshing. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Heimbourg that is spicy as well as crisp. It is full of ripe apples —R.V. 88 Riesling (Alsace). There is a golden, hon- and hedgerow fruits, with a spring in its texture and abv: 12.5% Price: $17 eyed feel to this ripe and full wine. It has spice, rich a bright acidity at the end. The aftertaste shows tropical fruits and a toasty character. An opulent more of the spiciness as well as a touch of typical Louis Sipp 2013 Nature’S Riesling (Alsace). texture gives the wine a powerful style, an embodi- Riesling steeliness. The Country Vintner. —R.V. 86 The chalky soil gives this oh-so-young wine ment of ripe Alsace Riesling. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 its freshness and tight, mineral texture. With its abv: 14% Price: $55 acidity, fresh green fruits and dryness, it needs time Domaine Jean-Luc Mader 2013 Riesling (Al- to soften the intense crispness. Drink from the end Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Terroir 87 sace). Totally refreshing as well as struc- of 2015. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. 88 d’Alsace Riesling (Alsace). This entry-level tured, this offers great acidity, lime and grapefruit abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Riesling from Zind-Humbrecht is very fresh, crisp, flavors, crisp and bright texture and a lively after- aromatic and delightfully fragrant. Some tighter taste. Clean and fruity, this will be good to drink Ruhlmann 2013 Cuvée Jean-Charles Riesling minerality adds nerviness to the texture, but it’s from 2015. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. 86 (Alsace). The wine is crisp, showing a light, ready to drink. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21 fragrant character and some attractive acidity. A abv: 12.5% Price: $30 creamier undertow will develop over the next few Domaine Zinck 2013 Portrait Riesling (Al- months, rounding out the steely edge that’s cur- Helfrich 2012 Steinklotz Grand Cru Riesling 87 sace). While the wine is bone-dry, its soft rently there. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. 88 (Alsace). Already showing signs of the kero- character keeps it from being too steely and tight. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 sene aromas that comes from aging Riesling, this is Aromatic and fresh, it has delicious, juicy apple and a tangy, aromatic and not quite dry wine with white green plum flavors. Drink from 2015. HB Wine Mer- Wolfberger 2013 Signature Riesling (Al- peach flavors and a zesty aftertaste. Drink now. Ad- chant. —R.V. 86 sace). Not quite dry, this wine is all about vantage International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 fruit. The fresh citrus character cuts through the abv: 12.5% Price: $25 mineral texture and gives a tangy, zesty feel. Wait La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2012 until mid-2015 before drinking. Kysela Père et Fils. Henri Schoenheitz 2012 Herrenreben Ries- 87 Pfaff Tradition Riesling (Alsace). With im- —R.V. 88 ling (Alsace). This is a single-vineyard wine, mediately attractive white flower aromas, this is a abv: 12% Price: $15 one of a range of three from Schoenheitz. delicate, fruity and lightly textured wine. The trio It is attractively perfumed with white flowers and of flavors includes citrus, lime zest and squeezed Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2012 Anne fruit blossom. The acidity and zesty texture balance pink grapefruit, with fresh juicy acidity that gives 85 de K Patergarten Old Vines Riesling (Alsace). the off-dry flavors. Crisp apples add to the fresh- a clean, bright aftertaste. Serge Doré Selections. This is a soft and rounded wine. Just off dry, it has while-structured character. Drink now, although it —R.V. apple and pear fruits with balancing acidity. Every- will be better from 2016. Vinum Wine Importing abv: 12% Price: $16 thing is in moderation, giving a wine that is drink- and Distributing LLC. —R.V. able now with a bright aftertaste. Total Wine & abv: 13% Price: $20 Willm 2013 Réserve Riesling (Alsace). Sum- More. —R.V. 87 mer flower aromas with touches of honey abv: 12% Price: $20 Hubert Meyer 2013 Riesling (Alsace). This give an immediately attractive, fresh character. To 88 is crisp, tight, still young. Hedgerow flower taste, it’s a crisp and steely wine, full of white fruits Charles Sparr 2012 Tradition Riesling (Al- aromas are sustained in the fresh character of the and a delicious juicy character. Drink now. Mon- 85 sace). This lime-flavored wine has a hint of wine. Zesty lemon shines while the steely, tight sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. steeliness to emphasize the structure. It’s crisp and texture is still closed and waiting to blossom. Drink abv: 12% Price: $15 fruity, racy and edgy at the end with a dry, tight fin- from 2015. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Best ish. Seaview Imports. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. Biecher & Schaal 2013 Kastelberg Grand abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $11 86 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Still young, this is a fruity, soft wine. It has some floral character, lay- Dopff & Irion 2013 Cuvée René Dopff Ries- La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2012 ers of lemon juice and aromatic acidity. It seems 85 ling (Alsace). Bone-dry although not shat- 88 Steingold Riesling (Alsace). A blend from to miss the power of a Grand Cru, instead being an teringly so, this is a crisp, tightly fruity wine. The different Grand Cru vineyards has resulted in this easy, fresh wine to drink from 2015. Distinctive Do- aromatic character gives a fresh, green-apple-laden fresh and still-young wine. It has perfumed acidity, maines. —R.V. flavor reinforced by lemon zest. Drink now. Dreyfus, crisp acidity and a bone-dry character. Needing to abv: 12% Price: $30 Ashby & Co. —R.V. age, it is packed with white fruits and flavored with abv: 12% Price: $17 summer flowers. Drink from 2016. Serge Doré Se- Joseph Fritsch 2013 Riesling (Alsace). Jo- lections. —R.V. 86 seph Fritsch produces wines in a modern, Domaine Pfister 2012 Tradition Riesling (Al- abv: 12% Price: $45 crisp and clean style. This Riesling with its bright 85 sace). Pfister’s Riesling is classic, simple fruits and lively acidity fits that pattern. It has the and fruity. With its light mineral texture, tight acid- Biecher & Schaal 2013 Sommerberg Grand 87 Cru Riesling (Alsace). Surprisingly rounded

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ity and delicate lemon and grapefruit flavors, it’s Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Kessler Grand totally ready to drink. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. GEWURZTRAMINER 91 Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Not overly abv: 12.5% Price: $29 sweet, this offers a spicy character on top of a touch Domaine Zinck 2011 Eichberg Grand Cru of honey and fresh lemon flavors. It’s surprisingly Helfrich 2013 Riesling (Alsace). The wine is 93 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Rich and opu- and attractively delicate for a Gewurztraminer, and 85 crisp, lightly fruity with good acidity and a lent, this is a gorgeously perfumed, sweet wine. The ready to drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines bright, tight texture. Apple and lime juice fruit fla- Eichberg vineyard produces opulent wines, and this USA. —R.V. vors give a fresh, crisp aftertaste. Drink from 2015. is no exception. A touch of honey matches the in- abv: 12.5% Price: $38 Advantage International. —R.V. tense spiciness and general sense of flamboyance. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 It’s a ripe wine, while still structured and dense. Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2012 Les Deux M Drink from 2017. HB Wine Merchants. Cellar Selec- 90 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Very spicy, yes, Jean Becker 2013 Hagenschlauf Riesling (Al- tion. —R.V. but also subtle, marrying exotic bergamot flavors 85 sace). Soft and off-dry in character, this is a abv: 14% Price: $48 with a structured, mineral texture. It is rich, cut fruity, light-hearted Riesling. Bright creamed apple with pepper as well as nutmeg, allowing room for and pear flavors are cut with refreshing acidity. The Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Kitterlé some fresher acidity at the end. Drink from 2016. wine is young, although ready to drink. Ideal Wine 93 Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A sweet Wine Agencies Inc. —R.V. and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. Gewuztraminer, ripe while still delicate. It provides abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA a fascinating take both on the grape, giving more honey than spice; and on the terroir that has pro- Domaine Zinck 2012 Terroir Gewurztraminer Robert Klingenfus 2013 Orfèvre en Arôme duced a highly structured wine. With its concentra- 90 (Alsace). The wine is rich, broad and very 85 Signature Riesling (Alsace). Crisp and fra- tion and the sense of acidity in the background, it spicy. At the same time, it is structured giving grant, this wine is light in texture, with plenty of will age, so drink from 2017. Maisons Marques & space for acidity and a textured character. It’s ripe citrus flavors. It has lively lemon and apple skin Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. with a touch of pepper as well as other spices. The fruitiness with a steely edge that comes from a min- abv: 12% Price: $59 wine is ready to drink but will be better from 2016. eral texture. Drink from 2015. Chateau Armand. Grantham Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. —R.V. René Muré 2012 Clos Saint Landelin Vorbourg abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $NA 93 Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Clos Saint Landelin is a portion of the Vorbourg Grand Domaines Schlumberger 2012 Les Princes Domaine Rieflé-Landmann 2012 Rieflé Bihl Cru vineyard wholly owned by Muré. This rich wine 89 Abbés Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is all 84 Riesling (Alsace). This is a single-vineyard is comfortably excessive, very full of spice and ly- spice and lychee flavors. It’s a rounded, soft wine, wine from Pfaffenheim. Giving a touch of spice as chee flavors. Medium dry in character with a dry on the sweet side although with a dry edge. It is well as delicate acidity, it’s light, bright and fruity. core, it is still young and could age. Drink from 2017. not subtle, but it does hit all the Gewurztraminer Crisp right through and attractively perfumed, it is Gargouille Collection. —R.V. buttons. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines ready to drink now. Maritime Wine Trading Collec- abv: 14% Price: $45 USA. —R.V. tive. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $32 Hugel 2009 Jubiléé Gewurztraminer (Al- 92 sace). This is a wonderfully balanced wine, Helfrich 2009 Steinklotz Grand Cru Gewurz- Vieil Armand 2013 Tradition Riesling (Al- bursting with ripe spice as well as acidity. It’s a 89 traminer (Alsace). This is a honeyed, sweet 84 sace). Lemon and summer flower aromas rich wine, now showing maturity without losing wine (a fact not indicated on the label). Spice is set the scene for this fresh and attractive wine. It its fruit. The depth of flavor, drilling right down to surrounded by ripe fruits, apricot and lychee, with is light and bright, dry while also fruity. Acidity and the mineral structure, is impressive. Drink now, al- added pepper. Some citrus acidity comes through at a crisp texture give it a lively aftertaste. Antares. though also wait until 2016. Frederick Wildman & the end. Drink now. Advantage International. —R.V. —R.V. Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $55 Michel Léon 2013 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Cave Freudenreich 2013 Riesling (Alsace). Boeckel 2012 Zotzenberg Grand Cru Gewurz- 88 The wine balances the sweet spiciness of 83 There is very little varietal character in this 91 traminer (Alsace). The wine is rich, medium Gewurztraminer with a good level of acidity. That rounded wine. It’s off dry, just crisp and with a light sweet and intensely aromatic and spicy. A spicily gives the wine a light touch while allowing the aromatic character. Crisp and clean, it’s ready to hot character derives from the pepper, bergamot rose and bergamot character of the grape to shine drink. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. and cardamom flavors. At the back are a firm struc- through. The wine is ready to drink. Plume Ridge. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 ture and tropical fruits. Age this wine and don’t Best Buy. —R.V. drink before 2017. Wein Bauer Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 Domaine Moltès 2013 Tradition Riesling (Al- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 83 sace). Light and gently aromatic, this is a Biecher & Schaal 2013 Steinert Grand Cru rounded style of Riesling without much texture. It’s Domaine Zinck 2010 Goldert Grand Cru 87 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This is a forward, soft, fruity and ready to drink. Cellars Edge. —R.V. 91 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Medium sweet in fruity and spicy wine. It is sweet and soft, with the abv: 13% Price: $20 character, this is a rich wine that’s driven by its lightest hint of acidity to give some freshness at the rich terroir. The chalk and gravel soil of the Goldert finish. Lychees and mangos combine easily with the Pierre Deschamps 2012 Riesling (Alsace). vineyard produces great spiciness that is balanced attractive pinch of pepper at the end. Distinctive 83 Soft and aromatic, this is a crisp, clean and by delicate acidity and the possibility of aging fur- Domaines. —R.V. fruity wine. It has some sweetness (not indicated ther. Drink now, but it will be better from 2016. HB abv: 13% Price: $40 on the label) with lime and tangy citrus flavors. It’s Wine Merchants. —R.V. ready to drink. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $48 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2012 Anne abv: 12.5% Price: $15 87 de K Vogelgarten Old Vines Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The wine is all about lychee fruitiness,

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 very ripe and full in the mouth. It has some sweet- Domaine Weinbach 2013 Réserve Pinot The aftertaste is all about crisp, bright texture. Ker- ness, a strongly spicy, candied character and a soft, 90 Blanc (Alsace). The wine is rich, full in the mit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. honeyed aftertaste. Drink now. Total Wine & More. mouth and delicious. With its creamy texture, baked abv: 12.5% Price: $17 —R.V. apple flavors and sprinkling of spice, it’s a dense and abv: 12.5% Price: $22 ripe wine that could be drunk now, but which will Wolfberger 2013 Signature Pinot Blanc (Al- be better in 2016. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 87 sace). A wine that is both creamy and has a Wunsch & Mann 2008 Steingrubler Grand abv: 13% Price: $26 tight, steely core. It will be fine with food, with its 87 Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This mature crisp apple acidity and a squeeze of lemon. Drink wine is more honeyed than spice, although it shows Trimbach 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). For full now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. both characters. It’s rich, full in the mouth with a 89 review see page 12. abv: 12% Price: $15 rounded texture, and has a medium-sweet character abv: 12.5% Price: $20 and touches of treacle and syrup. Acidity does come Charles Sparr 2013 Tradition Pinot Blanc through at the end to give a sense of perspective. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2012 Pinot Blanc 86 (Alsace). In its simple fruitiness, this is at- Legacy Vintners. —R.V. 88 (Alsace). Deliciously fragrant and soft, this tractive, fresh and rounded. Soft acidity gives a light abv: 13% Price: $27 is a ripe wine with pure apple and pear fruits and crispness to the apple and pear fruits. The wine is fresh acidity. From biodynamically grown grapes, clean, bright and very drinkable. Seaview Imports. Domaine Zinck 2012 Portrait Gewurztramin- it’s crisp, clean and bright. A touch of spice at the —R.V. 86 er (Alsace). Yes, the wine is perfumed, but end adds extra interest. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 the aromas are restrained, stylish and never in your abv: 13% Price: $21 face. That gives this Gewurztraminer a place at the Domaine Jean Sipp 2012 Les Trois Terroirs table, fragrant while cut with acidity. It’s ready to Josmeyer 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Jos- 86 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Fragrant, smooth and drink. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. 88 meyer’s organic wines give a very pure line creamy, this is a fresh, lemon and pear flavored abv: 13.5% Price: $18 in fruitiness. This Pinot Blanc has texture, crisp and wine. A hint of spice comes along with juicy acid- clean lemon and apple flavors and a light, bright ity and a crisp, tangy, textured aftertaste. Drink this Hugel 2012 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). All touch. The aftertaste keeps the mineral freshness refreshing wine now. Vin de Garde Wines. Best Buy. 86 the right amounts of spice are there, soft- and acidity. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. —R.V. ened and broadened by ripe fruits, lychee and fresh- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $10 ly sliced pear, giving a wine that is both rich and fruity. It’s an easy vision of Gewurztraminer, ready Domaine Charles Baur 2012 Pinot Blanc (Al- Domaine Pfister 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 87 sace). Not quite dry, this smooth and ripe 86 With good texture plus lively acidity, this abv: 14% Price: $29 wine is already open and very drinkable. Creamed is a refreshing, ripe and fresh wine. Offering apple apple and lightly spiced pear flavors bring out some and pear flavors cut with lemon, it’s a great, fruity Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2012 Gewurz- lively acidity. Drink now. Grape News Importing. apéritif style of wine. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Im- 85 traminer (Alsace). Unusually light for a —R.V. ports. —R.V. Gewurztraminer, this is a soft, smooth, candied abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $23 wine with a touch of sweetness. Exotic fruits and ripe flavors offer a wine that is ready to drink. Vi- Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2012 La Tulipe Domaine Zinck 2013 Portrait Pinot Blanc gneron Imports. —R.V. 87 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Not quite dry, this 86 (Alsace). Very fruity, this delicious and rich abv: 12.5% Price: $NA fresh and creamy wine has attractive baked apple wine has a mix of citrus and ripe apple flavors. It’s and sweet pear flavors. It’s soft and generous, cut ready to drink, although its zesty texture suggests it Wunsch & Mann 2012 Gewurztraminer (Al- attractively with acidity. It’s ready to drink. Wine will be better in 2016. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. 85 sace). This is all about classic spicy Gewurz- Agencies Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 traminer. It’s full and rounded, with candied flavors, abv: 13% Price: $NA great spice and a medium-sweet character. It’s not Henri Schoenheitz 2012 Val Saint-Grégoire subtle, but it is all there. Legacy Vintners. —R.V. Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2013 Pinot Blanc 86 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Just off dry, this clean abv: 13% Price: $19 87 (Alsace). Ripe and aromatic, this is immedi- and fresh wine has a touch of spice as well as crisp ately fresh and attractive. Creamed apples and ripe background acidity. Peppered apples and cante- Helfrich 2013 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). lime flavors are well integrated into a warm, gen- loupe melon give the fruity side of this wine, which 84 There are strongly spicy aromas to this gen- erous texture. It’s a lovely wine, rich and ready to finishes with soft acidity. It’s ready to drink. Vinum tle Gewurztraminer. It’s off dry, keeping some acid- drink. Authentique Vin. —R.V. Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V. ity amid the ripe lychee and nutmeg flavors. It’s an abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 approachable wine, ready to drink now. Advantage International. —R.V. Hugel 2012 Cuvée Les Amours Pinot Blanc Jean Becker 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). This abv: 12.5% Price: $17 87 (Alsace). This is a crisp, steely style of Pi- 86 is a creamy wine, rounded and soft. A touch not Blanc. It is fruity, with intense lemon and pine- of pepper adds interest and brings out the apple apple flavors that give acidity. The texture brings flavors. It’s crisp at the end while still retaining a PINOT BLANC out minerality and a taut character. It’s worthy of smooth and fruity character. It’s delicious to drink another year in bottle. Frederick Wildman & Sons, now. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. Domaine Ostertag 2013 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 91 Impressively concentrated for a Pinot Blanc, abv: 13% Price: $18 it offers intense spice as well as crisp apple flavors. Jean-Marc Bernhard 2013 Bouquet de Print- It’s bright, with good acidity as well as a rich and Kuentz-Bas 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). An at- 86 emps Pinot Blanc (Alsace). A spicy, creamy rounded aftertaste. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. 87 tractively round wine that’s full both of fruit wine that has a refreshing slice of lemon squeezed —R.V. and acidity. The two complement each other well, over it. It’s bright, fruity and soft, leaving a crisp, abv: 12.5% Price: $27 highlighting the light apple and white peach fruits.

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clean acidity at the end. Drink now. Slocum & Sons, Robert Klingenfus 2013 Orfèvre en Arôme Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2012 Anne Inc. —R.V. 84 Signature Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Fresh and 87 de K Altenbourg Old Vines Pinot Gris (Alsace). abv: 13% Price: $14 crisp, this citrusy wine is bright with lemon and Old vines give some extra concentration and allow young green fruit flavors. The palate is light with a ripe spice to show strongly. It makes for a rich wine Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2013 Anne hint of spice. Wait until mid-2015 to let the extreme that is packed with lychee and mangos. The wine 85 de K Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Soft, creamy and youth mature. Chateau Armand. —R.V. doesn’t allow much room for acidity but makes up fruity, this is instantly attractive. Apples and bright abv: 12% Price: $NA for that with a lightly dry, textured aftertaste. Total acidity work well together to give a lively wine that’s Wine & More. —R.V. fresh and a great apéritif style. Total Wine & More. Helfrich 2013 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). The wine abv: 13% Price: $22 —R.V. 83 is fruity, although it is flat, missing a fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $17 lift. It has spice and apple flavors, rounded in tex- Domaine Loew 2011 Bruderbach Le Menhir ture and with a bite of lemon zest at the end. Drink 87 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Bready and yeasty, the Cave Freudenreich 2013 Pinot Blanc (Al- now. Advantage International. —R.V. wine is already moving past its fruity stage into a 85 sace). Lively and crisp, this is a bright style abv: 13% Price: $17 mature, character. Toast and butter flavors give of Pinot Blanc, fruity with apples and melon and a rich character, bringing out the spice and pep- shot through with acidity. It’s already delicious to per. The wine could develop, but it probably needs drink. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. PINOT GRIS drinking now. Moreno Cabrera MCTC Import. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Domaines Schlumberger 2010 Spiegel Grand Domaine Allimant-Laugner 2012 Pinot Blanc 94 Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). This is blockbuster Domaine Zinck 2012 Portrait Pinot Gris (Al- 85 (Alsace). A smooth, peppery, ripe wine that Pinot Gris, a big wine in all senses. It has weight, 87 sace). Initially, the wine is only lightly spicy. has a touch of sweetness to give it a round texture. superrich fruit and wonderful spice. While it’s su- Then, as it opens up, exotic spices play on the fresh- It’s soft, rich with melon and spiced pear flavors and perficially opulent, it also has great depth, bringing ness of the palate, the pear and yellow plum fruits ready to drink now. Vigneron Imports. —R.V. out the terroir of the Spiegel vineyard and allowing crispened with acidity. It’s a rich wine without feel- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 the flashy spice to become more sophisticated as it ing in any way over the top. HB Wine Merchants. the wine ages. Drink now for its immediate attrac- —R.V. Joseph Fritsch 2013 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). tion, but really wait until 2018. Maisons Marques & abv: 13.5% Price: $17 85 This is a lively and fruity wine. It is crisp Domaines USA. —R.V. while also revealing a more creamy, stewed-apple abv: 14% Price: $29 Helfrich 2011 Steinklotz Grand Cru Pinot Gris character. Light acidity and a tang of citrus keep a 87 (Alsace). Light and attractively spicy, the fresh aftertaste. Margaux & Company. —R.V. Boeckel 2012 Zotzenberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris wine is off dry, with a touch of honey, apricots and abv: 12.5% Price: $15 91 (Alsace). A rich and medium sweet wine, full dried fruits. The texture, soft and tangy, is peppery of spice, lychees and ripe fruits. There is a tangy while the acidity is already well integrated. It’s an Louis Sipp 2012 Nature’S Pinot Blanc (Al- texture, a strong sense of minerality as well as herb, attractive, ready to drink wine. Advantage Interna- 85 sace). Already a delicious mouthful, this yellow fruits and nutmeg flavors. It is still young tional. —R.V. broad, ripe wine has a light step. Acidity gives fresh- and needs time. Drink from 2017. Wein Bauer Inc. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 ness while its main character lies in the ripe pear —R.V. and quince flavors. Drink now. Baron Francois Ltd. abv: 14% Price: $NA Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2012 Anne —R.V. 86 de K Pinot Gris (Alsace). This lightly spicy abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg 2012 Anne wine has soft fruitiness, a touch of pepper and ripe 90 de K Schlossberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Al- pear flavors. It’s easy, gentle and with just enough Domaine Moltès 2013 Tradition Pinot Blanc sace). Intensely perfumed, this wine is also struc- fresh acidity. The wine is very ready to drink. Total 84 (Alsace). Lightly spicy, this soft wine has a tured and fresh. Combining these elements gives Wine & More. —R.V. broad feel, with a rounded texture, ripe apples and a dense wine, firmly textured and with a dry core. abv: 13% Price: $19 attractive, bright acidity. Drink now. Strecker Se- Acidity gives the natural richness lift. It’s meant for lections. —R.V. aging, drink from 2017. Total Wine & More. —R.V. Helfrich 2013 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Spicy and abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $27 85 with refreshing acidity, this is a light and fruity wine for early drinking. Apricot and lychee Dopff & Irion 2013 Cuvée René Dopff Pinot Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2012 Le Berger flavors are cut by a fresher note and a soft aftertaste. 84 Blanc (Alsace). Soft pear and quince fruit 89 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Ripe and full, it offers Drink now. Advantage International. —R.V. flavors give this wine its creamy character. The ripe great spice, yellow fruits and hints of tropical fruits. abv: 13% Price: $17 fruit are given a lift by citrus acidity that leaves a It has acidity and is dry, but it’s delicious because of delicious, clean aftertaste. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. its rounded texture and generous body. Drink from Hugel 2012 Pinot Gris (Alsace). The wine is —R.V. 2015. Wine Agencies Inc. —R.V. 85 rich with touches of spice and open, gener- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ous apple and pear flavors. It’s a warm wine, ripe and ready to drink. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2013 Domaine Loew 2012 Bruderbach Le Menhir —R.V. 84 Pfaff Tradition Pinot Blanc (Alsace). With 89 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Smooth and spicy, this abv: 14% Price: $26 light acidity and melon and apricot fruits, this is is a rich wine, not quite dry and full-bodied. It is crisp and delicately aromatic. A clean line of fruiti- right up front with its white fruits, nutmeg and ly- Vieil Armand 2013 Tradition Pinot Gris (Al- ness ends with attractive acidity and a soft after- chee. The acidity just creeps in at the end. Drink 85 sace). Not quite dry, this lightly perfumed taste. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. from 2016. Moreno Cabrera MCTC Import. —R.V. wine has fresh apricot and white peach flavors. It abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $29 is poised with acidity and a soft texture. Drink now. Antares. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Wunsch & Mann 2012 Pinot Gris (Alsace). A cate softness that gives a broad spice and fruit char- young. LIvely acidity and red fruits complete an at- 84 spicy wine that is soft and light. Its texture acter. The acidity is already well integrated into the tractive wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. gives a touch of acidity to the ripe lychee and apple ripe texture. It’s not a wine for aging, but for drink- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 flavors. It’s a wine to drink young, fruity and easy. ing now as an apéritif. Gargouille Collection. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 Gustave Lorentz 2013 Le Rosé (Alsace). Not abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 84 quite dry, this is packed with red fruits. An Biecher & Schaal 2013 Altenberg de Ber- attractive crisp acidity balances the ripe, creamed 86 gheim Grand Cru (Alsace). A perfumed wine, strawberry flavor. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. OTHER WHITE WINES this is laden with spice as well as soft acidity. White —R.V. fruits, a touch of lychee and plenty of freshness abv: 12% Price: $20 Boeckel 2012 Zotzenberg Grand Cru Sylvaner make for an attractive, ripe wine that will be ready 90 (Alsace). One of the rare vineyards which to drink from 2016. Distinctive Domaines. —R.V. can produce Grand Cru Sylvaner, Zotzenberg’s chalk abv: 12.5% Price: $50 PINOT NOIR soil gives a mineral while juicy and fresh wine. The lightest hint of spice gives the wine some weight, Hugel 2013 Gentil Hugel (Alsace). This René Muré 2012 Clos Saint Landelin Pinot and the ripe, fruity apples and creamed pear are 86 white blend, simple and fruity, is a perfect 90 Noir (Alsace). This is still a young wine, already delicious. Not for aging. Wein Bauer Inc. apéritif wine. It’s light with a good mix of citrus and with its ripe red fruits and black cherry flavors. The —R.V. floral flavors, plus crisp apple and white flower aro- taste of licorice mingles with the fruit and balances abv: 13.5% Price: $NA mas. Drink this now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, with the smoky toast flavors. It’s a rich wine that Ltd. —R.V. needs time, so drink from 2016. Gargouille Collec- Domaine Schoffit 2012 Vieilles Vignes Pinot abv: 12.5% Price: $15 tion. —R.V. 90 Blanc-Auxerrois (Alsace). This soft wine abv: 13% Price: $75 shows a rounded character. It’s balanced, with acid- Clément Klur 2012 Gentil de Katz (Alsace). ity giving a supporting freshness and texture to the 85 This is a soft wine, with a touch of sweet- Charles Sparr 2011 Leimengrub Pinot Noir full, rich creaminess. Full in the mouth and dense, ness that comes from the spicy character and fresh 89 (Alsace). While light in color, this rich wine it could age further. Drink from 2015. Weygandt- red currant fruitiness. Sliced apples and a touch is full of both fruit and tannin. It has real Pinot Noir Metzler. —R.V. of nutmeg combine well to give a light, fruity wine cherry and strawberry flavors, lightened by cool abv: 13% Price: $21 that’s ready to drink. A.I. Selections. —R.V. acidity. The structure comes from the rich wood abv: 13% Price: $22 flavors and the complex tannins. Drink from 2015. Domaine Schoffit 2012 Vieilles Vignes Chas- —R.V. 90 selas (Alsace). There is a lovely, poised bal- Dopff & Irion 2011 Double Impact (Alsace). In abv: 13% Price: $NA ance between fresh, crisp fruitiness and peppered 85 its blue bottle that makes it look more like a spice in this wine made from the increasingly rare fancy water, Double Impact is a blend of Pinot Gris Hugel 2009 Jubiléé Pinot Noir (Alsace). This Chasselas. It is light, flavored with apple and quince, and Riesling. It is just off dry, offering attractive cit- 89 ripe, sweet-fruited wine is soft and quite very attractive and ready to drink now. Weygandt- rus and apple fruits, and showing a light touch of mature. Red fruits have developed into a smooth Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. acidity. It is ready to drink. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. and round texture with a delicate mushroom char- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 —R.V. acter. Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 —R.V. Domaine Zinck 2011 Terroir Muscat (Alsace). abv: 14% Price: $54 90 There should be more Muscat planted in Domaine Loew 2011 Vérité Sylvaner (Alsace). Alsace if this fine wine is anything to go by. It brings 84 The wine is ripe, soft and spicy. It has a rus- Boeckel 2012 Les Terres Rouges Pinot Noir out all the ethereal perfume of the grape, offering a tic feel, disclosing earthy aromas and almond and 88 (Alsace). This is a ripe, attractively fruity ripe character while remaining delicate and elegant. spice flavors. Light acidity keeps the wine fresh, wine. With its red cherries, touch of spice and The acidity lightens the final tone. Grantham Dis- although already it is showing signs of maturity. earthy, juicy character, it is all ready to drink, tributing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Drink now. Moreno Cabrera MCTC Import. —R.V. smooth and with a light touch of tannin. Wein Bau- abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $23 er Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Josmeyer 2012 H Vieilles Vignes Pinot Auxer- La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2012 88 rois (Alsace). The wine is dry, although its 84 Pfaff Gentil (Alsace). Spicy and fruity, this Kuentz-Bas 2011 Trois Châteaux Pinot Noir soft and creamy texture it brings out a gently sweet- is a bright, fresh wine with a light touch of sweet- 88 (Alsace). This soft, ripe Pinot Noir man- er side. Acidity, apples, freshly squeezed lemon and ness. Gentil is a category that blends any number ages to balance the fragrant red fruits with a gentle a green herbal touch give complexity and a ripe af- of the Alsace varieties together. It’s aromatic, crisp massage of wood aging. A firm layer of tannins gives tertaste. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. at the end while keeping softness. Drink now. Serge structure and it is ready to drink. Kermit Lynch abv: 13% Price: $NA Doré Selections. —R.V. Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $42 Domaine Ehrhart 2013 Val St. Grégoire Pinot 87 Auxerrois (Alsace). Smooth and fresh, it has René Muré 2012 Cuvée V Pinot Noir (Alsace). a light touch of spice that gives a lift. Acidity, sliced ROSÉS 88 This soft and ripe wine is full of bright pears and quince and a fresh aftertaste all make this cherry flavors, with gentle tannins and just a hint an attractive wine to drink now. Robert Kacher Se- La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2013 of wood aging. A proper Pinot Noir acidity brings lections. —R.V. 85 Pfaff Rosé (Alsace). Rosé from Pinot Noir is out the fruitiness of the wine. Drink now. Gargouille abv: 12.5% Price: $18 a new concept in Alsace (normally it is made into Collection. —R.V. red wine). As here, it can give an attractive crisp abv: 13% Price: $50 René Muré 2012 Steinstuck Sylvaner (Al- and fruity wine that is fresh and ready to be drunk 87 sace). Although the wine is dry, it has a deli-

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Henri Schoenheitz 2012 Saint-Grégoire Pinot Hubert Meyer 2012 Pinot Noir (Alsace). The Château Amour 2010 Médoc. This firmly 87 Noir (Alsace). An aromatic, light-colored 83 wood aging dominates this toasty, burnt- 89 tannic blend of 50/50 Merlot and Cabernet and fruity wine that is both structured with firm flavored wine. The light stalky fruit barely shows. Sauvignon is still developing. While its juicy black tannins and juicy with red fruits. That makes it bal- Maybe when the tannins soften in 2015, it will be currant fruits are right there, it needs another few anced and ripe, with a rounded texture and fragrant more approachable. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Im- years to soften the dry, hard-edged tannins and acidity at the end. Drink now. Vinum Wine Import- ports. —R.V. minerality. The juicy acidity at the end promises the ing and Distributing LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17 wait will be worth it. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Vieil Armand 2012 Tradition Pinot Noir (Al- Jean-Marc Bernhard 2012 Tradition Pinot 83 sace). The wine is light in color and light Château Clos du Moulin 2011 Médoc. This 85 Noir (Alsace). This soft, smooth wine is giv- in body. Red cherry fruits give freshness, although 88 ripe, wood-aged wine has full berry fruits en a bite by the burnt toast flavors. They need a year there is a burnt aftertaste. Drink now. Antares. and ripe tannins. The spicy wood is still promi- or two to round out and allow the red berry fruits to —R.V. nent but is allowing the rich fruit flavors to come shine. Drink from 2016 Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 through. It’s structured and still firm, a wine that’s abv: 13% Price: $17 mineral in texture and firm at the end. Drink from 2017. —R.V. Charles Sparr 2013 Tradition Pinot Noir (Al- SWEET WINES abv: 13% Price: $30 84 sace). The wine is lean, with more acidity than fruit. It does have a tannin edge that gives it Hugel 2007 Sélection de Grains Nobles Château Témperance 2006 Médoc. The structure but the fact the wine wasn’t aged in wood 94 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The Sélection de 88 wine is mature, with smoky acidity, autumn means it lacks any depth. Drink now. Seaview Im- Grains Nobles is a style pioneered by Hugel, and leaf aromas and a sense that is beginning to dry out. ports. —R.V. the family remains masters. It’s a beautifully golden With its memories of berry fruits and the arrival abv: 13% Price: $16 wine in color and taste, with few hints of the spici- of a leather texture, it should be drunk now. Terra ness of the grape but many fine flavors of opulence, Firma USA Inc. —R.V. Domaine Ehrhart 2012 Domaine Saint-Rémy and smooth botrytis. To balance the intense rich- abv: 13% Price: $30 84 Barrique Pinot Noir (Alsace). Definitely ness, the wine is cut with a fresh streak of acidity. wood-aged, this seriously toasty wine seems to have It’s now at its peak and will remain there for many Château Castera 2012 Château Bourbon la lost its fruit along the way. It gives a hard and tough years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selec- 83 Chapelle (Médoc). This is a special selection character that is partly redeemed by juicy acidity at tion. —R.V. from parcels of vines in Château Castéra. Stewed the end. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $312 plum aromas lead to a wine that is lean, leaving abv: 13% Price: $33 little room for the fruit. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Wunsch & Mann 2011 Vendanges Tardive Ltd. —R.V. Domaine Loew 2013 Westhoffen Pinot Noir 88 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Still young, this is abv: NA Price: $16 84 (Alsace). As often in Alsace Pinot Noir, beginning to show ripe and honeyed flavors as well the wine has too much wood for its fruit. What as a full texture. The spiciness of the grape comes fruitiness it has—bitter cherries and red berries—is through strongly with bergamot and lychee flavors. HAUT-MÉDOC smothered by high toast giving a dry, edgy after- The acidity is elusive, the aging will come from the taste. Moreno Cabrera MCTC Import. —R.V. touch of dryness at the end. Legacy Vintners. —R.V. Château Haut-Logat 2010 Haut-Médoc. A abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $42 91 wine that is rich in both tannins and ripe fruit. The 45% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend Domaine Pfister 2012 Pinot Noir (Alsace). gives the concentration of the wine, with spice and 84 An attractively soft and fruity wine, fla- BORDEAUX black berry fruits that are given an extra richness vored with red cherries and given a lift with acid- by the intense dark plums. The wine needs aging, so ity. It’s a simple, lightly structured wine that can be RED WINES drink from 2018. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. drunk now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $29 MÉDOC Château Gramond 2011 Haut-Médoc. Pow- Domaine Vincent Stoeffler 2012 Tradition Château Pey de Pont 2010 Médoc. This is an 90 erfully tannic, this dense and firm wine is 84 Pinot Noir (Alsace). A red wine that relies 91 impressive, big and broad wine. It’s full of dark in both color and fruit flavors. Tannins domi- on its fruitiness to succeed. Red berries and plums dusty tannins and ripe, rich black fruits. Solid with nate the structure, giving a solid core to a wine that show strongly, aided by acidity. The texture has a spice from the wood aging, it is concentrated and will certainly age. It has richness, juicy berry fruits stalky character with a bitter green herb aftertaste. holds fine aging potential. The Cabernet Sauvignon and plums shining with acidity. Drink from 2018. Drink now. Authentique Vin. —R.V. in the blend gives the firm structure that will allow Terra Firma USA Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $27 it to develop well. Drink from 2017. Misa Imports. abv: 13% Price: $30 Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Robert Klingenfus 2012 Orfèvre en Arôme abv: NA Price: $19 Château Haut-Logat 2009 Haut-Médoc. 84 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Still young and with 90 While the wine is very dense, it also has strong wood aging flavors, this is otherwise a light Château Castera 2011 Médoc. Ripe plum layers of very ripe fruits, plums and dark berries wine where the fruit is reticent. Bitter cherry fla- 90 fruits give this big and fruity wine from that give it an intensely rich character. The juicy vors show through along with acidity, and the wine the 130-acre Castéra vineyard a rich character. The acidity is almost overwhelming, a shock of fresh- obviously needs time to settle down. Drink from structure provides a fine support with tannins that ness as it cuts through the concentrated texture. 2016. Chateau Armand. —R.V. bring out the concentrated blackberry fruits. It’s The wine still needs to age, so drink from 2017. Che- abv: 12% Price: $NA full of potential; drink from 2018. Frederick Wild- val Quancard. —R.V. man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: NA Price: $25

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Château le Moulin d’Ulysse 2011 Haut-Mé- quickly, so drink from 2017. Frederick Wildman & is full of juicy red berry fruits, ripe tannins and just 89 doc. From a Merlot-dominated, 24-acre Sons, Ltd. —R.V. enough structure to support its opulent character. vineyard this is a strongly mineral wine, with young, abv: NA Price: $35 Wood aging gives a fine-grained texture that will al- dark tannins and a powerful structure. A more juicy, low it to age. Drink from 2016. Frederick Wildman fruity side brings out black currants and berries. Château Haut-Vigneau 2012 Pessac-Léog- & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Together the structure and the fruit promise good 88 nan. A small property owned by Château abv: NA Price: $25 aging. Drink from 2017. Terra Firma USA Inc. —R.V. Carbonnieux, Haut-Vigneau has produced a serious abv: 13% Price: $40 while still fruity wine. Its spicy wood is attractive Château Lagrave 2012 Le Second (Saint- and gives a warm character to the cherry and red 89 Émilion). Firm and solidly structured, this Château la Croix Margautot 2011 Haut-Mé- berry flavors. The wine will certainly age over the is a dense wine. It has plenty of tannins and a touch 88 doc. With its dominance of Cabernet Sau- medium term, so drink from 2016. Frederick Wild- of bitter chocolate, but they are supported by the vignon, this is a structured, juicy and black currant- man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. ripe fruit and fresh black currant flavors. It’s a wine flavored wine from the northern Haut-Médoc. Firm abv: NA Price: $24 for aging, drink from 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V. tannins, licorice and spice flavors are cut by acidity. abv: 13% Price: $18 It needs medium-term aging, so drink from 2017. Château Phélan-Ségur 2011 La Croix Bonis Saranty Imports. —R.V. 87 (Saint-Estèphe). Produced from young vines Château de Ferrand 2011 Saint-Émilion. The abv: 13% Price: $19 at Château Phélan-Ségur, this is a rich, spicy and 87 wine is tight, piled with tannins and ripe, open wine. It is bursting with fruitiness, packed juicy, extracted fruits. There is some bitterness as Château Ramage la Batisse 2011 L’Enclos de with blackberries and with a rounded texture. Drink well as coffee flavors to go with the black plum fla- 88 Ramage (Haut-Médoc). A wine that is soft, from 2016. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. vors. The wine is all up-front fruit and structure, rich in blackberry and currant fruitiness and with a abv: NA Price: $29 likely to develop quickly. Drink from 2016. Saranty fresh, jammy texture. Youthful acidity is prominent, Imports. —R.V. giving a fresh, juicy character to the aftertaste. At abv: 14% Price: $NA the moment, it is all fruit, so wait until 2016. Vin- SAINT-ÉMILION tage Imports, Inc. —R.V. Château Jacques Noir 2011 Saint-Émilion. abv: 13% Price: $22 Château de Ferrand 2010 Saint-Émilion. Very 87 This rich and rounded wine comes from 91 rich, this ripe and rounded wine is typical the flat lands of Saint-Émilion, giving it a soft and Château Ramage la Batisse 2011 R de Ram- of the powerful 2010 vintage. It’s dense and con- gentle feel. Acidity and ripe black fruits dominate 86 age (Haut-Médoc). The wine is ripe, juicy centrated, packed with black plum and sweet berry the light structure. It’s a wine for medium-term ag- with a body of tannins that add structure while not fruits. It shows a dense structure along with juicy ing, ripe and ready to drink from 2016. Medallion dominating. It’s the second wine of Ramage la Ba- fruits. It could be over the top, but the acidity and Global. —R.V. tisse, with light wood aging and juicy black currant tannins hold it back. Drink from 2018. Saranty Im- abv: NA Price: $30 acidity. It needs to age, but not for long, so drink ports. —R.V. from 2016. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $20 MONTAGNE-SAINT-ÉMILION Château Ambe Tour Pourret 2011 Saint- 90 Émilion. Rich, spicy and perfumed, this de- Château Bonfort 2012 Montagne-Saint- OTHER LEFT BANK licious wine is developing well and also has aging 88 Émilion. This ripe, smooth and generous potential. It is packed with berry and plum fruits wine also has a good sense of elegance. Acidity, ripe Château Labégorce Margaux 2010 Zédé de that parade with acidity and tannins that act as a berry and plum fruits and a core of tannins all hang 92 Labégorce (Margaux). This is the second support. It’s still dense and the balanced fruit and together well to give a wine that’s both dense and wine of Château Labégorce. It has much of the el- tannins will allow it to age. Drink from 2018. T. sophisticated. Drink from 2016. Cheval Quancard. egance of the top wine with firm tannins and gener- Elenteny Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. —R.V. ous fruits kept in stylish proportion. Black currant abv: 13% Price: $38 abv: 13% Price: $20 and berry fruits lie under the dark, dry exterior. The wine is dense, needing several years’ aging. Drink Château de l’Annonciation 2011 Saint-Émil- Château Plaisance 2011 Montagne-Saint- from 2018. Cheval Quancard. —R.V. 90 ion. This is a firm wine with ripe Merlot 88 Émilion. A complex, ageworthy wine, this is abv: 14% Price: $40 fruits that are still sheathed in tannins. Densely powered by its tannins, its dark berry fruits and the textured, it is rich with berries and a stalky char- layers of wood aging. It’s rich and sweet, the fruit Château Bel-Air Ortet 2011 Saint-Estèphe. acter that needs to soften. Wait for this solid, con- balancing the structure and given a fresh touch with 89 Still firm, this has dark chocolate and pol- centrated and ageworthy wine until 2017. Superior black currant acidity. Drink from 2017. Baystate ished wood flavors, as well as dark plums and ber- Wines. —R.V. Wine & Spirits. —R.V. ries. With the tight acidity, it’s a wine for aging, abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $25 dark and concentrated for the future. Drink from 2018. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Château Franc Pipeau 2012 Saint-Émilion. A Château Haut-Plaisance 2012 Montagne- abv: 13% Price: $32 90 well constructed, solid wine, this has a fine 85 Saint-Émilion. Dominated by 80% Mer- layer of firm tannins that melds well with the rich lot with licorice and dark chocolate, the wine has Château Pibran 2010 Château Tour Pibran black plums and acidity. Even this young, the wine strong flavors of new wood that give a vanilla and 88 (Pauillac). The second wine of Château is showing a balanced character, warm and ripe. caramel character. It is solid, with a strong tannic Pibran, this is ripe, juicy and attractive now. Black It will age, so drink from 2018. Cheval Quancard. presence. Put all this together and this is a wine and red fruits burst from the glass, giving a rich —R.V. that is likely always to be firm. Frederick Wildman character. That is balanced with refreshing acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $35 & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. and a light tannic character. The wine will develop abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Château la Chapelle aux Moines 2010 Saint- 89 Émilion. This generous and full-bodied wine

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Château des Annereaux 2007 Lalande de future. It has ripe berry fruits, touches of spice and SAINT-ÉMILION SATELLITES 88 Pomerol. Considering the average reputa- ginger. The tannins are firm, dusty and dry while al- tion of the 2007 vintage, this is a very drinkable lowing plenty of room for the fruit. It will develop Château des Landes 2011 Cuvée Prestige wine. It is maturing, with a developed color and well; drink from 2018. Wines & Beyond Import. Best 88 (Lussac Saint-Émilion). From Château des mushroom flavors. The acidity and the soft struc- Buy. —R.V. Landes’ old vines, this is a concentrated, solid wine. ture both show a wine that’s ready to drink. K&L abv: NA Price: $15 Dark tannins have dark chocolate and licorice fla- Wine Merchants. —R.V. vors, with a structure that dominates the fruit and abv: 12.5% Price: $26 Chateau Frédignac 2012 Cuvée Terroir (Blaye needs to soften. New wood aging was perhaps exces- 90 Côtes de Bordeaux). Hand-sorting and 18 sive, but give the wine time. Drink from 2017. Kysela Château Siaurac 2012 Plaisir de Siaurac months of aging is the key here. This 80% Merlot Père et Fils. —R.V. 86 (Lalande de Pomerol). Soft and round, blend with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cab- abv: 14% Price: $40 this young wine is all about fruit and a light tan- ernet Franc offers a generously proportioned bal- nic structure. Fresh berry fruits abound along with ance of tannins and black fruits. It has full-bodied Château Lanbersac 2011 Puisseguin Saint- acidity and a drier core. It’s not for long aging and character, packed with berry fruits and rich acidity. 86 Émilion. The wine is softening already, will be ready to drink in 2015. BNP Distributing. With all these elements, it will develop well. Drink bringing out ripe red berry fruits that have taken —R.V. from 2017. Matinicus Wines, LLC. Editors’ Choice. over from the tannic structure. It makes for a deli- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 —R.V. cious, gently structured wine that will age relatively abv: 13% Price: $18 quickly. Drink from 2016. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX Château Gauthier 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 90 deaux. Structured and fruity, this 25-acre Château Marsau 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor- vineyard of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab- Château des Landes 2011 Cuvée Tradition 92 deaux. This special selection, tight-cropped ernet Franc has produced a blend that is solid and 85 (Lussac Saint-Émilion). Firmly tannic, this from 30 acres of 100% Merlot, is ripe and rich. This with a good future. It has black fruits and firm tan- wine is solid, firm and traditional in its dry struc- is a smoky and fruity wine, in barrel for 14 months. nins along with well-judged wood aging (six to eight ture. Black currant fruitiness shows briefly before It has ripe black fruits and rich, dense structure. months). It is ripe, with attractive juicy flavors and the tannins and dark extract take over. It’s a tough Spice and toast balance the fruit, giving an impres- spice. Drink from 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V. wine at this stage and could well remain hard. Try sive sense of generosity. Drink from 2017. Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $22 drinking from 2017. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: NA Price: $18 Château la Baronnerie 2010 Grand Vin 90 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Made from old Château Cantinot 2012 Orbite de Cantinot vines, this complex and structured wine brings out LALANDE DE POMEROL 91 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). From 7.5 acres the richness and ripe tannins of 2010. It’s firm al- of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a rich though the fruit concentration is what shows most Château des Annereaux 2010 Lalande de wine, very perfumed and with layers of ripe fruit. It strongly. It’s an impressive, juicy, red-fruited wine 92 Pomerol. Rich while also structured, this is lightly structured, full of red berries with a firm that will age. Drink from 2017. USA Wine West. is beginning to be delicious. Acidity comes from tannic character in the background. Under wine- —R.V. the black currant fruits while the structure shows maker Olivier Dauga, the wine needs to age but has abv: 14% Price: $29 dense tannins and wood-aging flavors. The wine is all the fruit potential there. Drink from 2018. Bour- still young and prepared for a long haul, so don’t geois Family Selections. —R.V. Château Les Bertrands 2012 Nectar des drink before 2018. K&L Wine Merchants. Cellar Se- abv: NA Price: $50 90 Bertrands (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). The lection. —R.V. ninth generation of the Dublois family goes for tight abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Château Clairac 2012 Tradition (Blaye Côtes cropping on only 7.5 acres for Nectar (95% Merlot, 91 de Bordeaux). This is fruity and juicy with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon). Layers of wood dominate Château des Annereaux 2009 Lalande de good acidity and fresh berry fruits. The 90% Merlot this wine. However, it does promise fruit as well, 92 Pomerol. This starts out smooth and round- and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blend has the right shown by the weight and richness. So it’s a wine for ed and then begins to develop a drier, firmer charac- amount of tannic character, showing structure that a pause, to allow the intense spice and new wood ter. Putting the flattering richness and the structure brings out ripe red fruits and indicates good poten- flavors to die down. Firm and dry now, it will be together and the wine is both rich and solid, with tial. Drink from 2017. The Barterhouse. Best Buy. worth the wait. Drink from 2018. Touton Selection. black currant fruits vying with a dry core. It still —R.V. —R.V. needs time; drink from 2017. K&L Wine Merchants. abv: NA Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $35 Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 Château Haut Bertinerie 2012 Blaye Côtes de Château des Matards 2012 Cuvée Nathan 91 Bordeaux. This rich, concentrated wine is 89 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Here’s a solid Château de Roquebrune 2011 Cuvée Reine velvet smooth, with tannins enveloped by ripe berry wine full of both tannins and dark fruits. New oak 88 (Lalande de Pomerol). While the wine cer- and plum fruits. Wood aging has added to the the barrels give a spicy character while supporting the tainly has structure, its main character, from the rounded character. Despite its approachability, it fruitiness. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cab- dominant Merlot, is the juicy, stalky fruit and jam- will age well, so the wine is best drunk from 2018. ernet Sauvignon from only 10 acres, it is develop- my, ripe black plums. It does have an edge of bitter DB Wine Selection. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. ing into a rich wine that still needs time. Drink this chocolate and a layer of wood. When that softens, it abv: 14% Price: $28 impressive wine from 2018. —R.V. will be a ripe, broad wine. Drink from 2017. T. Elen- abv: 13% Price: $19 teny Imports. —R.V. Château la Croix Saint-Pierre 2012 Tradition abv: 13.5% Price: $30 91 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Big and juicy, this Château Puynard 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor- is an attractive blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Caber- 89 deaux. Juicy while structured, this is al- net Sauvignon and 10% Malbec with a promising ready a well-balanced wine with dark tannins, wood

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 flavors and a dense structure. With a firm character has been in the Dop family for 150 years. Misa Im- to two years, the rest in tanks), so drink from 2017. as well as ripe black plum fruits, it is going to devel- ports. —R.V. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. op well. This 40-acre Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: NA Price: $16 vineyard is on a slope above the Gironde estuary punctuated by a château with 13th-century origins. Château Manon la Lagune 2012 Blaye Côtes Château la Baronnerie 2010 Grand Baron Drink from 2018. -Lehmann. —R.V. 87 de Bordeaux. A year’s barrel aging has given 85 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). The wine’s color abv: 13.5% Price: $NA this firm and very rich wine a spicy character. That has already passed the young and fruity stage, hint- marries with the licorice and bitter chocolate to ing at the aging that’s apparent on the palate. So the Château Bertinerie 2011 Grande Cuvée (Blaye give a ripe, extracted and dense wine. It needs a few bright fruits have diminished, leaving a wine that 88 Côtes de Bordeaux). Attractive and smooth, years to bring out more of the juicy plum fruitiness. is round and hinting at the wood aging. It can be this is a ripe, broad wine with its soft, juicy red Drink from 2017. Costco. Best Buy. —R.V. drunk now. USA Wine West. —R.V. berry fruits and supporting firm tannins. Balanced abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $17 and fruity, it is ready to drink, finishing with a crisp texture of acidity. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. Château Pérenne 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bor- Château Les Petits Arnaud 2012 Tradition abv: 13% Price: $15 87 deaux. This rich wine has very ripe fruit, 85 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This is ripe and layers of juicy berries and black plums and a broad juicy with friendly acidity and tannins from 10 Château la Petite Roque 2012 Mon Rouge brush of acidity and tannins. It may not be subtle, months’ wood aging in two- to five-year-old barrels. 88 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Bold and fruity, but it is likely to be a full-bodied, enjoyable wine Black fruits are coupled with minerality to give a this blend is ripe, full of juicy black fruits, with a from 2017. Terra Firma USA Inc. —R.V. wine that is both structured and with plenty of gen- core of dry tannin. It is going to be a delicious wine abv: 14.5% Price: $25 erous fruitiness. The property is run by the seventh with great fruitiness and attractive acidity. A min- generation of the Carreau family. The Barterhouse. eral element at the end will allow it to develop well. Château Belle Coline 2012 Blaye Côtes de —R.V. This is a second wine of Jean-Michel Baudet, fifth- 86 Bordeaux. Full of delicious fruits, this is a abv: NA Price: $15 generation winemaker. Drink from 2018. Patagonia bright, red berry blend of Merlot (90%) and Malbec Wine & Imports, LLC. —R.V. (10%). It has lively acidity allied to a more formal Château Dubraud 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor- abv: NA Price: $15 tannic structure that gives a firm, age-worthy feel 84 deaux. This wine is soft and juicy with to the wine. Drink from 2017. MacArthur Beverages. 12 months in barrel. It has rounded tannins and Château La Roche Bazin 2012 Blaye Côtes de —R.V. perfumed berry fruits. What it misses is the acid- 88 Bordeaux. A wine that is well balanced with abv: NA Price: $18 ity, leaving an unbalanced wine. Fine Terroirs LLC. attractive ripe berry fruits and generous tannins. —R.V. It has weight and richness, allowing room for the Château Haut Bertinerie 2012 Elegance abv: 12.5% Price: $14 development of both the structure and the fruits. 86 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). The wine has Drink from 2017. Five Grapes. Best Buy. —R.V. a hard extracted edge, with bitter tannins that are Château Les Grands Maréchaux 2012 Blaye abv: NA Price: $10 dominating the fruitiness. It needs to soften and 84 Côtes de Bordeaux. The wine is perfumed, bring out the berry fruits, although the wine will spicy with dense tannins. It has a hard-edged struc- Château Peyredoulle 2012 Blaye Côtes de always have a tough character. DB Wine Selection. ture, tough with the ripe fruit still underneath. 88 Bordeaux. Situated on limestone and clay —R.V. Vines are an average of 14 years old. Touton Selec- (peyredoulle means hard rock in an old dialect), the abv: 14% Price: $16 tion. —R.V. wine offers spice and sweet fruit flavors, balanc- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ing wood and fruitiness. The classic Merlot, Mal- Château Haut Colombier 2012 Blaye Côtes de bec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit 86 Bordeaux. Night harvesting on the highest Château Crusquet Sabourin 2012 Blaye Côtes Verdot blend has considerable potential, allowing hill in Blaye is tricky but the Chety family pulls it 83 de Bordeaux. Juicy and spicy flavors give a plenty of room for the fruit and the wood tannin off. Ripe and juicy, this is a ready-to-drink wine. It wine that layers fruit and ginger. Blackberries are flavors to integrate. Drink from 2017. Advantage In- has berry fruits cut with acidity and with a firm line the dominant fruit while the spice adds a bite that ternational. —R.V. in spicy wood from barrels one- to three-years-old. is almost exotic. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 The tannins give a solid foundation and aging po- abv: NA Price: $17 tential. Drink from 2017. A-Wine USA LLC. —R.V. Château de Trousse 2012 Blaye Côtes de abv: NA Price: $20 Château Haut Prieur 2012 Blaye Côtes de 87 Bordeaux. Alain and Céline Vidal’s second 83 Bordeaux. Vanilla and caramel flavors domi- brand (they also own Château Dubraud) is a fruity Chateau Frédignac 2012 Cuvée La Favorite nate this wine after 12 months in French oak. That blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) 85 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This cuvée hon- means that the fruit is really not allowed to shine. It and Cabernet Franc (15%) although the smoky ors a sailor who, in 1919, docked his boat, La Favor- is firm, very dry and all about spice. A pepper flavor wood flavors also have an important place. Red ber- ite, at Blaye in the Gironde estuary and bought the from the alcohol leaves a burn in the mouth. Ter- ries and black currants partner with acidity and property. It is still owned by the l’Amouller family. raneo Merchants. —R.V. firm tannins. The wine is still developing so drink Juicy and fruity, this wine is immediately attractive abv: 14% Price: $16 from 2016. Fine Terroirs LLC. —R.V. and accessible. Red fruits, soft tannins and a bite abv: 12.5% Price: $13 of acidity all contribute to the ready-to-drink taste. Château Le Grand Moulin 2012 Grande Matinicus Wines, LLC. —R.V. 83 Réserve (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). The Château Haut Cabut 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 wine is ripe and soft with a body of tannin that sits 87 deaux. The mix of spice and fruit gives a ripe uneasily within this jammy character. The blend feel and shows good potential. With 75% Merlot, Château Gigault 2012 Cuvée Viva (Blaye (Merlot 75%, Cabernet Franc 25%, Malbec 5%) 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, 85 Côtes de Bordeaux). This spicy 100% Mer- was aged 30% in barrel and 70% in stainless steel it has a juicy backdrop boosted by wood-aging fla- lot wine has tangy black fruits as well as dense tex- tanks. It is unbalanced and likely to remain so. Fruit vors. It needs to age, so drink from 2018. The estate ture. It is ripe and very juicy, with intense acidity. of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. It needs to relax (25% new oak barrels; 25% one abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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Château Mayne Guyon 2012 Blaye Côtes de Château Lauriol 2012 Francs Côtes de Bor- eral texture to soften. Along with owner Monique 83 Bordeaux. The over-exuberance of wood ag- 86 deaux. This exclusively Merlot wine is soft, Bonnet’s Château Suau, this vineyard was certified ing spoils this wine. With strong spice and equally ripe and generous. It has red berry fruits, some French organic with the 2012 vintage. Drink from tannic elements, it’s all about the skeleton and not broad tannins and attractive acidity. It’s not for 2018. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. about the flesh of the fruit. Plume Ridge . —R.V. long-term aging, so drink from 2016. Wings Winery. abv: NA Price: $25 abv: NA Price: $10 —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA Domaine les Carmels 2012 Cadillac Côtes de Château Les Gatines 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor- 90 Bordeaux. While it is closed and tough at 82 deaux. The wine is all toast and smoky wood Château Puygueraud 2012 Francs Côtes de present, this is definitely a wine with a future. The flavors though it spent only six to eight months in 86 Bordeaux. The wine is still austere, with hand-harvested 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet oak. It is extracted and hard, with little fruit. Misa dry toastiness. Black fruits emerge from the struc- Franc blend has both firm tannins and the promise Imports. —R.V. ture, showing a severe character although one with of ripe fruits, black berries and a rich, opulent char- abv: NA Price: $21 potential. It will develop into a powerful wine, solid acter. Spice and new wood (one-third new French and firm. —R.V. oak) are balanced by the fruits and they are brought Château Ricaud 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bor- abv: NA Price: $NA together by the acidity at the end. Sophie Lavaud, 82 deaux. Overripe, jammy fruits and dry tan- who has owned the 13-acre estate since 2010, is in nins are an odd combination. They don’t work in Château les Charmes Godard 2012 Francs the process of getting organic certification. Wine this wine that has a hot character. This is the first 84 Côtes de Bordeaux. All Merlot, this wine is Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. vineyard in Blaye certified by Terra Vitis for sus- soft, ripe and generous. It has red berry fruits, some abv: NA Price: $40 tainable viticulture. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. broad tannins and attractive acidity. It’s not for abv: NA Price: $20 long-term aging, so drink from 2016. —R.V. Château Brethous 2012 Cadillac Côtes de abv: NA Price: $NA 89 Bordeaux. Certified French organic with this vintage, this 100% Merlot is ripe, full-bodied CÔTES DE BOURG Château La Claverie 2012 Francs Côtes de and already showing its potential richness. Terroir- 83 Bordeaux. A late Merlot harvest (October driven black fruits and generous tannins give a Château Guerry 2011 Côtes de Bourg. While 19) from 22 acres, the wine was stored for 12–16 warm character to the wine that is then backed by 88 this is a rich wine, it also has a more fruity months in cement vats. Dry and extracted with a black fruits and final acidity. This is a generous wine character that brings out acidity and a streak of hard edge that dulls the fruit, the wine will likely from the Verdier family, ready to age. Drink from freshness. It’s firm at the moment, reflecting a need stay that way. —R.V. 2018. Bad Boy. —R.V. for aging. Dense and full of berry fruits, it will be abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $18 best drunk from 2017. Terra Firma USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 CADILLAC Château des Mille Anges 2012 Cadillac Côtes 89 de Bordeaux. With attractive juiciness, this Château Grand-Maison 2011 Côtes de Bourg. CÔTES DE BORDEAUX ripe wine has plenty of room for both tannins and 87 The wine is stalky, driven by minerality and black fruits. It is fruity, acidity topping the berry a tight texture. Its black currant fruit is riven with Château Brethous 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Ca- flavors and bringing in toast and final spice. Heath- acidity, layered with wood and still very young. It 91 dillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Attractively per- er van Ekris, owner of this estate that began as a does have weight, potential richness and a prom- fumed, this Verdier family wine comes from Merlot/ Middle Ages convent, brought in Hubert de Brouard ising medium-term future. Drink from 2017. Pierre Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in their first certi- of Château Angelus in Saint-Émilion as consultant Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. fied French organic vintage. The wine is a smooth beginning with this vintage. Drink from 2017. Gabri- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 and polished. New wood flavors show strongly, af- ella Importers Inc. —R.V. ter 16 months in barrel, alongside the ripe tannins abv: NA Price: $25 Château Grand-Maison 2011 Cuvée Sélection and black plum fruits. It has rich potential and a 86 (Côtes de Bourg). The wine is solid, firm strong presence. Drink from 2017. Bad Boy. Editors’ Château du Cros 2012 Cadillac Côtes de Bor- and rich. Ripe black plum and berry fruits are sup- Choice. —R.V. 88 deaux. Château du Cros began life in the ported by a structure of firm tannins and wood fla- abv: NA Price: $35 12th century, commanding a superb military van- vors. This is a wine for aging, wait until 2017. Pierre tage point over the Garonne river. The surrounding Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. Château Chatard 2012 Cadillac Côtes de vineyards have produced a fresh and fruity Merlot- abv: 13% Price: $25 90 Bordeaux. Rich and spicy, this 90% Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon blend with a mineral bite that and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from 10 acres gener- gives a strong sense of structure. Its weight and a ous and ripe, with warm tannins and a fruity, red firm texture act as a foil to the juicy red berries and FRANCS CÔTES DE BORDEAUX berry character. This blend has attractive acidity attractive acidity. The wine is almost drinkable now and spicy flavors from the combination of wood and but will be better from 2016. Robert Houde Wines. Château Godard Bellevue 2012 Francs Côtes stainless-steel aging. This is only the second vintage —R.V. 88 de Bordeaux. Structured and balanced, this from enologist Jean-Rémi Larrat’s own property. abv: NA Price: $17 wine has great fruits that go with the tannins and It is worth aging, so drink from 2017. Fruit of the rich texture. There is an unusually low amount of Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château les Hauts de Palette 2012 Cadillac Merlot (60%) with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and abv: NA Price: $16 88 Côtes de Bordeaux. Spicy wood gives this 15% Cabernet Franc for the area, yet there is a wine a smooth character. It also adds lift, allowing strongly juicy feel to the wine that gives a generous Château Maubert 2012 Cadillac Côtes de the rich black fruits to speak out. Acidity is well in- side. It is developing well; drink from 2016. Natural 90 Bordeaux. This 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, tegrated into the tannins and balanced character of Selection Wines. —R.V. 45% Merlot wine is ripe and spicy. Solid fruit gives the wine. It’s one of seven Bordeaux properties in abv: NA Price: $18 a juicy character along with a strong sense of struc- the Yung family since 1962. Drink from 2016. USA ture. That allows room for plenty of acidity as well Wine West. —R.V. as fruit, but also demands aging to allow the min- abv: 13% Price: $20

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Château Reynon 2012 Cadillac Côtes de Cabernet Sauvignon gives it a curious, dried-fruit Château de Belcier 2011 Les Armoires de 88 Bordeaux. This no-herbicide, hand-picked, flavor. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 89 Belcier Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Chosen hilltop Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Petit Verdot abv: NA Price: $25 from a selection of parcels, this dense and complex blend is rich with attractive acidity and ripe straw- wine has layers of firm tannins that a give a dry, berry fruits. Its tannins present a structure for CASTILLON tough core. Underneath, the juicy, currant and berry fruity texture. A wine from guru Pro- fruits need to spring to life. Give this concentrated fessor Denis Dubourdieu’s stable, it has concentra- CÔTES DE BORDEAUX wine until 2017. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. tion and a dense dark aftertaste. Drink from 2017. abv: 13% Price: $22 Total Wine & More. —R.V. Château Alcée 2012 Castillon Côtes de Bor- abv: NA Price: $24 91 deaux. A Castillon ridge mix of 95% Merlot Château Terrasson 2012 Cuvée Prevenche and 5% Cabernet Franc, this perfumed wine has 89 (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). Layered Château de Laville 2012 Cadillac Côtes de Bor- new wood and mint flavors that balance with the with toasty wood, this rich wine delivers black- 87 deaux. With spice and new wood balancing black fruits and tannins. It’s ripe, with fresh acidity berry fruits, a strong sense of tannins that enrich the generous black fruits (40% Merlot and 25% as well as structure. There’s just 8,500 bottles from the fruit, and a concentrated aftertaste. From one each Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon), this 7.5 acres. This will age well, so drink from 2017. of several small properties tended by owners Chris- rich wine has good potential. It is warm and gener- Owner Nicolas Thienpont purchased the vineyard tophe and Marie Jo Lavau, it will age well. Drink ous, packed with both acidity and a solid structure. in 2011. —R.V. from 2017. LVC Las Vegas Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Drink from 2017. Jandell Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château Joanin Bécot 2012 Castillon Côtes Château Cap de Faugères 2012 Castillon Château Mont-Pérat 2012 Cadillac Côtes de 91 de Bordeaux. The wine has serious tannins 88 Côtes de Bordeaux. Ripe and fruity, this is a 87 Bordeaux. This 80% Merlot, 15% Caber- and firm fruit that give an austere character at this soft wine with attractive red fruits. With balanced net Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon wine is ripe stage. But it will develop and round out into a rich acidity, it is round and fresh, with enough tannins and soft with attractive acidity and juicy red berry wine with ripe black fruits, always with a solid tan- to give support. Aged in one- and two-year-old bar- flavors. While there are tannins, they are subservi- nic structure. Owner Juliette Bécot manages the rels, it is quite ready to drink with a bright, red ber- ent to the fruit, which suggests that the wine will technical side here with consultant Jean-Philippe ry aftertaste. Consultant Michel Rolland works with develop quickly. The wine appeared in volumes 1 Fort from the Michel Rolland lab, and manages mar- Silvio Denz, who owns several Saint-Émilion-area and 27 of Tadashi Agi’s manga series, Les Gouttes de keting at classed-growth Château Beauséjour-Bécot properties and is a négociant elsewhere in Europe. Dieu (Drops of God). Drink from 2016. Fruit of the in nearby Saint-Émilion. K&L Wine Merchants. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. Vines, Inc. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $30 abv: NA Price: $15 Château de Pitray 2011 Castillon Côtes de Château La Caussade 2012 Cadillac Côtes de Château Aiguilhe Querre 2012 Castillon 88 Bordeaux. The Cabernet Franc in the blend 85 Bordeaux. Harvested from a six-acre parcel, 90 Côtes de Bordeaux. This juicy Merlot/Cab- gives an attractive perfumed character. Spice and this Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon wine is ripe and ernet Franc blend is balanced and fresh with great pepper go with ripe black plum fruit flavors. It’s fruity. It is very developed for a 2012. This means it red fruits and soft tannins. Acidity gives a crisp fla- dense and concentrated, the tannins prominent at is soft, smooth, showing mature fruits and finishing vor while the fragrant smokiness allows for future this stage. Drink from 2017. MS Walker. —R.V. with attractive acidity. Definitely to be drunk now. development. This comes from a nine-acre, high- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Atlanta Improvement Co. —R.V. density, hand-picked parcel on a limestone plateau abv: NA Price: $21 among the Querre family vineyards. Drink from Château des Demoiselles 2012 Grande 2017. Signature Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 88 Réserve (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). The Château Clos Bourbon 2012 Cadillac Côtes de abv: NA Price: $18 wine’s strong toasty character is balanced by the 84 Bordeaux. The wine is soft, just juicy and potential of the ripe fruit and acidity. It’s still show- with little in the way of concentration. Barrel-aged Domaine de l’A 2012 Castillon Côtes de Bor- ing as young, the wood aging covering the fruit. for 12 months in one-third new oak, it is attractive 90 deaux. Ripe, soft and very drinkable, this Wait until 2017 and the balance will be right there. and ready to drink now. Vines are planted on lime- has a generous structure that cushions the tan- This cuvée is harvested from des Demoiselles plots, stone and clay above limestone and iron schist sub- nins with rounded black fruits. The acidity and the one of 13 chateaus in the Ducourt family. La Ville soil. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. warm, generous character of the 80% Merlot and Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15 20% Cabernet Franc blend net a fine representa- abv: NA Price: $40 tion of the fruity 2012s. This is Bordeaux consul- Château Clos Bourbon 2012 Cuvée La Rose tant Stéphane Derenoncourt’s home turf. Wooden Château Haut Dina 2012 Castillon Côtes de 84 Bourbon (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). This fermenters and 16 months in barrel (40% new) 88 Bordeaux. Ripe and spicy, this is develop- 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon wine necessitate time, so drink from 2016. Christopher ing into an attractive wine. Plenty of fresh raspberry is soft and juicy but without much character. Red Imports. —R.V. and black currant flavors go with the dusty tannins fruits and acidity leave little more room for devel- abv: NA Price: $65 that are at the center of the wine. It does need to opment. Aged 12 months in older oak barrels. Cal- age; drink from 2016. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V. vert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. Chateau Brisson 2012 Castillon Côtes de Bor- abv: NA Price: $14 abv: NA Price: $15 89 deaux. Packed with wood and fruit, this rich wine needs time. A juicy blend of 85% Merlot and Château La Croix Lartigue 2012 Castillon Château de Lestiac 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Ca- 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s full of attractive acid- 88 Côtes de Bordeaux. Solid, dry and very tan- 81 dillac Côtes de Bordeaux). While there is ity and blackberry fruits. The tannins do need to nic, this is a firm 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc plenty of wood here (12 months in new barrels), soften and round out, so drink from 2017. Winebow. wine. Flavors of licorice and oak aging (40% new the raisin character of the 60% Merlot and 40% —R.V. oak) point to a dense and tough wine that needs to abv: NA Price: $20 soften. It has acidity and layers of black fruits at the

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back. Hold this wine, with its potential, until 2017. Château de Belcier 2011 B de Belcier (Castil- Christopher Imports. —R.V. 86 lon Côtes de Bordeaux). The second wine CÔTES DE BORDEAUX abv: 14% Price: $42 of Château Belcier is a firm proposition in its own right, with dark tannins and juicy black currant Château du Vallier 2012 Côtes de Bordeaux. Château le Peyrat 2012 Castillon Côtes de acidity. It’s tight with some austerity that needs to 91 While the wine is all tannin and structure at 88 Bordeaux. Bold and ripe, this is packed with round out. Drink from 2017. Vintage Imports, Inc. this stage, the weight and rich fruit promise plenty red fruits and fresh acidity from an 85% Merlot and —R.V. of good aging potential. Wine producers for 10 gen- 15% Cabernet Franc blend. While the tannins are abv: 13% Price: $20 erations, the Dulon family picks specific plots. This present, they have a walk-on part, leaving the stage 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% for the rich and juicy fruits. That makes it a wine Château Roquevieille 2011 Castillon Côtes Cabernet France blend has juicy black fruits that to drink soon, from 2016. Acid Inc Selections. Best 86 de Bordeaux. For a 2011, the wine has sur- will push forward to give a full wine with a fine Buy. —R.V. prising maturity that makes it ready to drink now. presence. Drink from 2017. Good Company Wines. abv: NA Price: $12 Rounded berry fruits merge into the soft tannins, Editors’ Choice. —R.V. leaving an attractive, juicy aftertaste. Drink until abv: NA Price: $20 Château Roquevieille 2012 Castillon Côtes 2018. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 88 de Bordeaux. The wine is all fruit initially abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Château Nenine 2012 Côtes de Bordeaux. and then the firmer tannins kick in. It has a strong- 88 Rich and full-bodied, this has ripe berry ly tannic core that leaves the wine dry and tough Château Beynat 2012 Castillon Côtes de Bor- fruits that are already showing well. Fine tannins after 12 months in barrel. The fruit weight should 85 deaux. This wine is light, juicy and with at- give structure without diminishing the natural broaden the wine out, giving black fruitiness in the tractive red fruits brightened with acidity. The tan- fruitiness. It’s a generous wine (with Merlot, Cab- future. Drink from 2017. Deutsch Family Wine & nins suggest a little aging, but there is no need to ernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc) that needs a Spirits. —R.V. wait. This Beynat property has been in the family little more time. Drink from 2016. Metropolis Wine abv: NA Price: $17 since 1917. World Wine Discoveries. —R.V. Merchants, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Château Roquevieille 2010 Castillon Côtes 88 de Bordeaux. Firm and structured, this Château Côte Montpezat 2012 Cuvée Com- Château de Potiron 2012 Cuvée Privilége powerful wine has considerable aging potential. 84 postelle (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). 87 (Côtes de Bordeaux). This wine has weight Black plum skins, dark tannins and ripe, juicy fruit- Firm, tannic and hard, this tight wine has a solid and the potential for ripe black fruits. At this stage, iness are all piled into the solid structure. Drink core of dry wood. It seems over-extracted with its it is closed up, full of suggestions without realiza- from 2016. Saranty Imports. —R.V. bitter coffee flavors. Fruit is hard to come by, al- tion. Wait until 2017 for the rich character to be abv: 13.5% Price: $NA though there is weight that could develop. Masci- fully revealed. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. arelli Wine Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château Beynat 2012 Cuvée Léonard (Castil- abv: NA Price: $20 87 lon Côtes de Bordeaux). Fresh and fruity, this Château de Terrefort Bibonne 2012 Côtes is already very drinkable. Tannins could soften fur- Château de Monbadon 2012 Castillon Côtes 87 de Bordeaux. With just the right amount ther, but the bright red fruits and acidity are juicy 84 de Bordeaux. With too much smoky toast, of wood aging, this is soft, rich and smooth. Tan- enough already. The mineral texture and fragrant this gives a hard, extracted feel with licorice rath- nins are already well integrated into the blackberry aftertaste form a balanced combination. This cuvée er than fruit. Tannins are dense and hints of juicy fruits, giving a wine that is fruity, juicy and good is selected from plots on the Beynat property. Me- fruitiness only appear in the background. P.R. Gris- for medium-term aging. Drink from 2016. Misa Im- tropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —R.V. ley Company. —R.V. ports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $26 abv: NA Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $15

Château Bréhat 2012 Castillon Côtes de Bor- Château Tertre de Belvès 2012 Castillon Château des Augustins 2012 Côtes de Bor- 87 deaux. While there are plenty of tannins, 84 Côtes de Bordeaux. This 100% Merlot from 87 deaux. This Merlot, Cabernet Franc and this Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon a small experimental vineyard is solid, firm and still Cabernet Sauvignon blend is ripe with attractive blend also has a delicious, fruity character. The young. It has a dense structure of tannins and wood vanilla flavors from the wood aging that comple- fresh acidity of the vintage is right there, balanced aging, showing bitter coffee flavors and an austere ment the red berry fruits. It is spicy, toasty and has by black currant fruits and a dry core. It is develop- character after 14 months in new French oak. It will a soft structure. Give it time for the wood to allow ing well, and will be drinkable from 2016. Petit Pois likely remain a tough proposition. Grantham Dis- the fruit more space, but it will be a generous wine. Corporation. —R.V. tributing. —R.V. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18 abv: NA Price: $22 abv: NA Price: $18

Clos Puy Arnaud 2012 Castillon Côtes de Bor- Château des Demoiselles 2012 Castillon Château Plaisance 2011 Cuvée Alix (Côtes de 87 deaux. Very fruity, very juicy, this wine is all 83 Côtes de Bordeaux. There is a strongly rus- 86 Bordeaux). Situated on the slopes above the about crisp, fresh fruitiness, starting with hand- tic character to this wine. The fruit seems to have Garonne river, this vineyard has produced a rich and picked biodynamic vineyard plots and gravity-flow disappeared. and the wine is tough right through. soft wine that is full, ripe and already very drink- into the winery. Red currants dominate, with con- Maceration took place in traditional concrete vats; able. A tarry character leads into dark berry fruits siderable acidity right at the fore. At the back, the malolactic fermentation and aging in barrels, 25% and a full aftertaste. Terra Firma USA Inc. —R.V. tannins are developing, but fruit will be the hall- new oak. La Ville Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 mark for the long future. Owner Thierry Valette’s abv: NA Price: $20 family also owns Château Troplong-Mondot in Château Lamothe de Haux 2012 Côtes de Saint-Émilion. Ducat Cellars. —R.V. 84 Bordeaux. This 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet abv: NA Price: $34 Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc blend has ripe

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 red fruits and soft tannins that give a broad feel. It Château de Monrecueil 2012 Bordeaux Su- berries, sliced with acidity and black currant, and is ready to drink now. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. 86 périeur. Smooth and round, this modern, conveys a rich, jammy character. Drink now. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $22 polished wine is fresh while ripe at the end. Lush abv: 13% Price: $NA berry fruits and tannins provide broad support for Château Lamothe de Haux 2012 Valentine the fruitiness. It’s very ready to drink now. Vintage Château les Arromans 2012 Bordeaux. This 83 par Valentine (Côtes de Bordeaux). Soft, ripe Imports, Inc. —R.V. 87 fruity, attractive wine has plenty of black and jammy, this is too ripe and misses structure. Its abv: 13% Price: $12 currant and fresh berry flavors. Gentle tannins give acidity does redeem it, but it is not going to develop a core of dryness, although it’s the bright fruit that much. Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V. Château de Terrefort-Quancard 2011 Bor- sings in this immediately drinkable wine. Drink now abv: NA Price: $33 85 deaux Supérieur. Round, fruity and soft, and until 2018. Elite Wines Import. Best Buy.—R.V. this juicy wine will be ready to drink soon. A stalky abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Domaine de Terrefort Bibonne 2012 Côtes structure is filled out with red berry fruits and fine 82 de Bordeaux. The wine is a curious mix of acidity. Light texture and juicy fruitiness mark the Château des Combes 2011 Bordeaux. This is tannins and fruit that don’t hang well together. It end. Drink now–2018. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 86 ready to drink with its ripe black fruits and leaves a bitter, extracted taste. Atlanta Improve- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 soft structure. A tannic edge keeps the berry fruits ment Co. —R.V. in order, allowing the juicy acidity also to shine. At abv: NA Price: $15 the end, the wood aging shows along with the black BORDEAUX currant fruit. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR Cheval Quancard 2010 1844 Réserve (Bor- 90 deaux). Celebrating the foundation of Château Roc de Ségur 2013 Bordeaux. This Château La Mothe du Barry 2012 Vieilles Cheval Quancard in 1844, this is a solid, dense and 86 dense, wood-laden wine has ripe spice and 90 Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). The wine well-made wine from ripe grapes. The balance is dark tannins. It’s heavy with wood as well as black has been heavily extracted, giving an initial bitter good with tannins already integrating well into the currant fruits and acidity. It is young and needs coffee and a dry tannic character. The fruit weight juicy, ripe acidity. It’s ready to drink but will age at time to integrate, so don’t drink before 2016. Fred- will compensate for this, bringing out acidity, black least until 2019. Cheval Quancard. Best Buy. —R.V. erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. plums and rich berries. It has the right concentra- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $9 tion to age, so drink from 2017. Elite Wines Import. Best Buy. —R.V. Château de Bordes-Quancard 2011 Bordeaux. Cheval Quancard 2010 Prestige de Bordes abv: 14% Price: $13 88 The wine is full and ripe, generous both in 86 (Bordeaux). This fruity, light and fresh wine its black fruits and its tannins. It’s rich, juicy and offers easy tannins and red berry fruits. It’s rounded Château la Verrière 2012 Bordeaux Supéri- packed with berry fruits, a touch of wood and a and juicy, smoothed by wood aging that gives it a 90 eur. This complex, spicy and fruity wine mineral texture showing at the end. Drink from ripe aftertaste. Drink now. Cheval Quancard. —R.V. is big, with attractive acidity. It is piled with berry 2016. Cheval Quancard. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 fruits that give a rich character. The fruits are sup- abv: 13% Price: $12 ported by well-judged wood. This full-bodied wine Clarendelle 2009 Bordeaux. The Haut- will develop well; drink from 2017. Misa Imports. Château La Maroutine 2010 Bordeaux. This 86 Brion winemaking team produces this ripe Best Buy. —R.V. 88 dark wine shows the beneficial effects of wine that has a sense of elegance, with black cur- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 the fine 2010 vintage. Immense blackberry fruits rant flavors and warm, soft tannins. At the end, the balance the ripe, dry tannins and refreshing acidity. juicy fruit triumphs, giving a wine that’s ready to Château La Mothe du Barry 2012 Cuvée le It needs time to develop further; drink from 2016. drink now. Southern Wine and Spirits. —R.V. 89 Barry (Bordeaux Supérieur). From the best Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA parcels in the La Mothe du Barry vineyard, this abv: 14% Price: $12 firm and structured wine shows an obvious wood- Château Briot 2011 Bordeaux. Black currant aging character. Dominated by Merlot, it is rich and Château les Arromans 2012 Cuvée Prestige 85 fruits dominate this ripe, stalky wine that dense, solid tannins balanced against juicy black 88 (Bordeaux). A very rich, almost Port-like has young tannins and a smoky cedar character that fruits and fresh acidity. It needs to age; drink after ripeness and dense black fruits give this wine pow- comes from light wood aging. It’s dry, firm and ready 2016. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. erful presence. It has weight and sweet fruitiness to drink. Jandell Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 that is happily cut with acidity. Tannins provide a abv: 13% Price: $12 light reminder of the chance to age this wine. Drink Château La Mothe du Barry 2012 Bordeaux now and until 2019. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. Château les Granges 2012 Bordeaux. This 88 Supérieur. Firm and stalky, this wine has abv: 14% Price: $17 85 is a soft and spicy wine, laden with new intense black currant fruitiness. A dry tannic core wood and ripe berry fruits. From the Entre-deux- is balanced by the fresh fruits and acidity. It’s al- Château Sainte Barbe 2012 Merlot de Châ- Mers region, it is full of fruit with a stalky texture most too fruity at the moment and needs to soften, 88 teau Sainte-Barbe (Bordeaux). Rich and and plenty of fresh black currant acidity at the end. so wait until 2016. Elite Wines Import. Best Buy. structured, this shows the plushness of today’s Bor- Drink from 2015. —R.V. —R.V. deaux Merlot. Ripe berry fruits, dark plums and a abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $12 touch of vanilla give spice and round off the texture. It’s juicy, still developing and best from 2016. AHD Château Nicot 2011 Bordeaux. This is rich, Cap Royal 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. Firm and Vintners. —R.V. 85 smooth and developing well. Ripe blackber- 87 complex, it manages both acidity and con- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 ry fruits shows strongly along with a stalky texture centrated tannins and brings out really black fruits. and still-young acidity. The wine is fruity and ready Misa Imports. —R.V. Château La Mothe du Barry 2012 La Cuvée à to drink. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 87 mon Loup (Bordeaux). This is ripe and very abv: 13.5% Price: $11 soft, a wine made to be drunk young. It’s full of ripe

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Château Rousset-Caillau 2013 Cuvée SL (Bor- ic wine that needs holding until 2016 before drink- wine. For it to calm down and broaden out, wait un- 85 deaux). Despite its heavy bottle, this is not a ing. Cheval Quancard. Best Buy. —R.V. til the end of 2015. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. wine for aging. It’s been made deliberately soft and abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $14 fruity without any wood aging. Red berry fruits have a light acidity and only hints of a structure. Drink Château de Fontenille 2013 Entre-Deux- Château Manon la Lagune 2013 Blaye Côtes now and until 2018. The House Of Burgundy. —R.V. 86 Mers. This is an aromatic wine, perfumed 87 de Bordeaux. Tight, very dry and startlingly abv: 13% Price: $18 with ripe peaches as well as the citrus associated fresh, this is a crisp and fruity wine. It’s all about with Sauvignon Blanc. It’s light, spicy and very citrus, bright with green fruits and lively acidity. Château La Rose du Pin 2011 Bordeaux. The fruity. Drink now. The Country Vintner-Craft and It could age, but it’s a wine to drink now in all its 84 wine is rounded and soft with attractive Estate. —R.V. freshness. Costco. Best Buy. —R.V. berry fruits and wood aging. It’s fruity with juicy abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 acidity, black currant freshness and a dry core that will allow it to age 2017–2018. Tenzing Wine and Château La Mothe du Barry 2013 Entre-Deux- Château la Baronnerie 2013 Grand Baron Spirits. —R.V. 86 Mers. While this wine has a crisp herba- 86 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). The wine is soft, abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ceous edge, it is gently rounded and given a warmer relatively rounded even though it has plenty of crisp character from the apricot and pear flavors. The and herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc flavors. Acidity is Château Tour Chapoux 2012 Bordeaux. This aftertaste brings out a brighter, crisper finish. Elite kept in check by the ripe green and yellow fruits, 84 is a wood-laden wine, dense and firmly tan- Wines Import. —R.V. lime and apricot to the fore. The aftertaste brings nic. It’s an unnecessarily tough proposition for a abv: 12% Price: $12 out a more tangy texture. Drink now. USA Wine young Bordeaux, but the juicy black currant acidity West. —R.V. could bring it round by 2017–2018. Cheval Quan- Château Nicot 2013 Entre-Deux-Mers. Fresh abv: 13% Price: $16 card. —R.V. 85 and herbaceous, this is a crisp, young wine. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Citrus fruit and bright acidity are given roundness by the high proportion of Sémillon in the blend. BORDEAUX BLANC Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2011 Bor- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 83 deaux. Ripe and juicy, this smooth, simple abv: NA Price: $12 Château Plaisance 2012 Cuvée Alix (Bor- wine is ready to drink. Juicy black currant fruits are 88 deaux Blanc). A wine that is, unusually polished by the wood aging. Baystate Wine & Spir- Château La Rose du Pin 2013 Entre-Deux- for Bordeaux, dominated by Sémillon. That gives a its. —R.V. 83 Mers. An intensely youthful herbaceous creamy, ripe and still muted character and demands abv: 12.5% Price: $13 character is at work here. The wine is full of goose- another few years aging. The acidity and fresh citrus berry, lemon and pink grapefruit flavors, laced with fruits are filled out with melon and ripe pear flavors. Château Roustaing 2012 Réserve Vieilles Vi- some orange zest. It’s very fresh and probably too Drink this wine from 2016. Terra Firma USA Inc. 83 gnes (Bordeaux). This is a lean wine that young, so wait until late 2015. Medallion Global. —R.V. seems to be missing the fruit. It has an austere qual- —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $25 ity with a strongly tannic element and mineral acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 ity. MS Walker. —R.V. Château Queyssard 2013 Cuvée Dorianne abv: 13.5% Price: $11 86 (Bordeaux Blanc). For a young Sauvignon Blanc, this is surprisingly rich. A concentrated Château Sainte Barbe 2011 Bordeaux. While character supports the yellow fruits and light vanil- 82 this wine is still young, the level of smoky Château les Clauzots 2013 Graves. This la flavor. Drink now and until 2018. Misa Imports. wood aging flavors is enormous. It’s all about planks 87 rounded wine offers ripe pineapple and cit- —R.V. and not about fruit, not taking into account the rus flavors. It’s rich with attractive fruitiness and a abv: 12.5% Price: $13 light vintage. Could the black fruits develop? Cer- broad, generous texture. It’s fruity with a more tex- tainly, but maybe not enough. AHD Vintners. —R.V. tured side that promises aging for a few years. MS Clarendelle 2012 Bordeaux Blanc. This ripe abv: 14% Price: $24 Walker. —R.V. 86 wine has a touch of wood. Honey also makes abv: NA Price: $17 its presence felt, although the wine is dry. The effect is a wine that’s full, smooth and with a rich after- BORDEAUX taste. Southern Wine and Spirits. —R.V. BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX abv: 12% Price: $NA WHITE WINES Château la Baronnerie 2012 Grand Vin (Blaye Château Briot 2013 Bordeaux Blanc. Fresh ENTRE-DEUX-MERS 89 Côtes de Bordeaux). With wood aging, the 85 and floral, this is a soft and ripe wine. With Sauvignon Blanc has developed vanilla flavors that lemon and lime flavors tempered by apricots and Château les Arromans 2013 Entre-Deux- are currently smothering the fruit. Ginger domi- pears, it offers a delicious fruit salad of flavors. The 88 Mers. Intensely herbaceous, this is a crisp, nates, along with black pepper, giving a wine that aftertaste is rich and juicy. Jandell Selections. —R.V. lemon and grapefruit-driven wine. Bright and fruity, has a tangy texture just hinting at juicy white fruits. abv: 12% Price: $12 it has a touch of minerality to keep it structured. Age until 2016. USA Wine West. —R.V. Drink now. Elite Wines Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Château Loumelat 2013 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12% Price: $12 85 This Sauvignon Blanc is totally herbaceous Château Bertinerie 2013 Grande Cuvée and much too young to drink. Fruity, packed with Cheval Quancard 2013 Cuvée Clémence (En- 88 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Totally herba- citrus and with a floral aroma, it’s juicy, crisp and 87 tre-Deux-Mers). With a touch of wood aging, ceous and crisp, this is a rich, citrus-flavored wine. needs until 2016 to calm down and round out. Bar- this is a spicy wine while still fruity. Graperfruit and Grapefruit flavors dominate with a twist of lemon on Francois Ltd. —R.V. pineapple combine with the toast to give an aromat- on top, giving a zesty texture that shows a young abv: 12.5% Price: $13

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 VIgnobles Ducourt 2013 Le Blanc de Mon- Château des Arnauds 2013 Caprices d’Anaïs ready to drink but will be better mid-2015. Seaview 85 sieur Henri (Bordeaux Blanc). Named after 82 (Bordeaux Rosé). While the wine is fresh Imports. —R.V. the current Ducourt generation’s grandfather, this and fruity, a layer of caramel comes up against the abv: 13.5% Price: $20 is a rich, lightly sweet wine, typical of an older style bright red berry fruits and gives a bitter taste. The of white Bordeaux. It is however clean, fresh and wine is unbalanced. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Bernard Magrez 2013 Douce Vie Les Muraires shows plenty of crisp fruit. Drink now.. Laville Im- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 88 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A light touch of ports. —R.V. caramel sweetens the otherwise bright and crisp abv: 11.5% Price: $14 fruit. It has a rich character that is ripe and packed with red berry and citrus flavors. With its great Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2013 Bor- fruitiness, this is an apéritif style of wine. Terra 84 deaux Blanc. Fresh and citrus crisp, this is Château Raymond-Lafon 2011 Sauternes. Firma USA Inc. —R.V. a Sauvignon-dominated herbaceous wine. It has a 93 From one of the many recent exceptional abv: 12.5% Price: $15 light structure and a texture that brings out vivid years in Sauternes, this ripe, unctuous wine has lemon zest. Not for aging, drink now. Baystate Wine balanced the rich honeyed fruit and the drier edge Château la Coste 2013 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix- & Spirits. —R.V. of botrytis. It’s full in the mouth, with Seville or- 86 en-Provence). The relatively high alcohol abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ange and a light touch of ginger. Drink from 2019. of this wine shuts out the freshness. It does have Cellar Selection. —R.V. ripe red berries and red plums, round in texture Château Larroque 2013 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 with a spicy tang. With its weight, it needs food. 84 Intensely herbaceous, this is almost too Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. fruity and crisp for its own good. It’s dominated by Château Suduiraut 2010 Castelnau de abv: 14% Price: $NA juicy citrus fruits, gooseberries and forward acidity. 91 Suduiraut (Sauternes). Made from young Drink from 2015. BNP Distributing. —R.V. vines, this is the second wine of Suduiraut. It has Mirabeau 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). In abv: 12% Price: $13 young, honeyed character, with a ripe, opulent tex- 85 this soft, easy style of rosé, red fruits mingle ture that lays bitter orange fruits over drier noble with a caramel and spice backdrop. Refreshing acid- Château Rousset-Caillau 2013 Bordeaux rot flavors. It is so delicious now, but will be better ity cuts through the ripe fruitiness, giving a rounded 84 Blanc. Tightly herbaceous, this light and from 2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. wine that works both as an apéritif and with food. crisp wine is all citrus and gooseberries, with a abv: NA Price: $35 Seaview Imports. —R.V. tangy lemon zest texture. Drink now. The House Of abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Burgundy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 PROVENCE Noble Terroir 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). 83 While the wine is crisp, it seems to hover Château la Hargue 2013 Moelleux (Bordeaux ROSÉS between fresh red fruits and a sweeter touch. That 82 Blanc). Although the wine is described as leaves a wine that’s unbalanced and unattractive. moelleux (sweet), it is only just off dry. It’s a curious Bernard Magrez 2013 Château des Muraires Canon de Colorado. —R.V. wine, neither one thing nor another, retaining the 89 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is a full- abv: 13% Price: $12 herbaceous character of a Sauvignon-based wine bodied, rich rosé from the walled Clos des Muraires, while almost adding a spoonful of sugar. Medallion ripe with red berry fruits and the warm sunshine. Global. —R.V. Fruity and with a mineral texture, it can age until WHITE WINE abv: 10% Price: $12 mid-2015, although it is delicious now. Terra Firma USA Inc. —R.V. Château Routas 2013 Routas Viognier (Vin abv: 12.5% Price: $26 84 de Pays Var). Perfumed and rich, this wine ROSÉS gives a ripe fruit feel. Hints of green fruits marry Château Henri Bonnaud 2013 Rosé (Pal- with spice and touches of apricot, even honey. The Château Briot 2013 Réserve (Bordeaux Rosé). 89 ette). The wine has the typical Provence end is crisp, clean and full. Routas USA. —R.V. 87 Fresh red berry flavors and crisp acidity give rosé color—a pale, elegant pink-grey. The flavors abv: 14% Price: $11 this light and almost dry wine an attractive crisp though are rich, full and powerful. It is packed with quality. A squeeze of lemon adds to the freshness. sweet ripe strawberries, very smooth and luscious. Jandell Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. The Wine Trust. —R.V. RED WINES abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $NA Château de Palayson 2009 Grande Cuvée Château Larroque 2013 Bordeaux Rosé. A Château la Coste 2013 Bellugue Rosé (Cote- 89 (Var). One of a pair of wines from Palayson 83 typically heavy, ripe style of rosé, this does 89 aux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is full of su- blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. This, with have some freshness and citrus acidity but it is put perripe red fruits, full-bodied and concentrated. It its 80% Syrah and 20% Cabernet, is perfumed and against ripe carmel, spice and a fat texture. Drink offers spice as well as fruitiness, both well integrat- spicy. With great violet aromas and firm spice and now. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. ed and given a lift by the attractive lemon acidity. tannin, it does show power and alcohol. At the same abv: 12.5% Price: $12 It’s a rosé for winter and could match turkey with time, it has the potential to round out into a smooth its weight and density. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. and full-bodied wine. Drink from 2017. Chateau Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2013 Bor- abv: 14% Price: $NA Wines Ltd. —R.V. 82 deaux Rosé. Pink in color, this heavy rosé abv: 14% Price: $40 lacks fruit. It has a touch of citrus that keeps some Mirabeau 2013 Pure Rosé (Côtes de freshness, but it’s too soft and fat. Baystate Wine & 89 Provence). The superior cuvée from Mira- Château de Palayson 2009 Cuvée Christine Spirits. —R.V. beau, this is a tight, firm and dry wine that has some 88 (Var). This smooth, wood-aged blend of abv: 12.5% Price: $13 weight. It’s rich and full in the mouth, spice allied 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah gives to red fruits, citrus and a touch of minerality. It’s both spice and rich tannins. In the Provence warmth, they have blossomed together to give a wine that is

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ripe and full-bodied while keeping refreshing acid- Cantina di Sorbara 2013 Villa Badia Sec- ing and cassis. The palate offers crushed black cher- ity at the end. Chateau Wines Ltd. —R.V. 86 co (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Simple and ry, blueberry, spice and a hint of candied nectarine abv: 14% Price: $40 straightforward, this has aromas of blue flower, wet alongside brisk acidity and feisty tannins. Kermit leaves and tilled earth. The lively, fruity palate of- Lynch Wine Merchants, Estelle Imports. —K.O. Château Henri Bonnaud 2010 Palette. This fers intense red and black berry flavors alongside abv: 10.5% Price: $18 88 firm and rich wine is full of dark tannins brisk acidity. Solstars Inc. —K.O. partnered by a warm, spicy southern character with abv: NA Price: $14 Fattoria Moretto 2013 Amabile (Lambrusco wild herbs as well as generous red berry fruits. It’s 85 Grasparossa di Castelvetro). This informal, ready to drink. The Wine Trust. —R.V. Cantina di Sorbara NV Onesta Secco (Lambr- off-dry red opens with primary aromas of just- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 85 usco di Sorbara). Delicate violet and straw- fermented wine, blue flower and black plum. The berry aromas lead the nose on this lively, slightly lively, frothy palate offers sweet black cherry and bubbly red. The bright palate offers sour cherry, blackberry with a hint of mocha alongside brisk ITALY raspberry and a hint of orange zest. It has a clean, acidity. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Estelle Im- dry finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. ports. —K.O. SPARKLING WINES abv: 11% Price: $14 abv: 11.5% Price: $18 LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA DI Manicardi 2013 Vigna Ca’ del Fiore (Lambr- 85 usco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas of Cleto Chiarli 2013 Fondatore (Lambrusco di CASTELVETRO overripe black plum, tilled soil and a whiff of truffle 90 Sorbara). Refermented in the bottle, this and barnyard lead the nose on this frothy, infor- frothy, delicious red delivers rose, blue flower, juicy Cleto Chiarli 2013 Vigneto Cialdini (Lambr- mal red. The fruity palate offers black cherry and raspberry, sour cherry and yeasty aromas that carry 89 usco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas crushed blackberry alongside drying, fleeting tan- over to the dry, refreshing palate. It’s elegant with suggest violet, black plum, crushed black cherry and nins. Tavolo Vigneto, Vinity Wine. —K.O. wonderful intensity and a juicy, lingering finish. wild strawberry. The intense fruit sensations carry abv: 11.5% Price: $20 Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. over to the palate with a note of white pepper, while abv: 11.5% Price: $17 robust but fine tannins lend structure. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. OTHER SPARKLING Paltrinieri 2012 Radice (Lambrusco di Sorba- abv: 11% Price: $16 90 ra). Invigorating and frothy, this opens with Tosti 2007 Cuvée Giulio I (Alta Langa). Made aromas of woodland berries and violets. The savory Villa di Corlo 2013 Corleto (Lambrusco Grasp- 92 entirely of Pinot Nero, this elegant, struc- palate offers mouthfuls of wild cherry, strawberry 89 arossa di Castelvetro). Dense and delicious, tured sparkler opens with aromas of rose, berry and and clove alongside bright acidity and small, per- this deeply colored wine opens with aromas of blue yeasty sensations of freshly baked butter cookies. sistent bubbles. Chill this down for a crisp and re- flower, plum, raspberry and graphite. The lively, The palate delivers a nice depth of flavors including freshing summer red. Porto Vino Italiano. Editors’ savory palate delivers concentrated black cherry, tart red apple, wild strawberry, sage and marjoram Choice. —K.O. cassis, white pepper and mineral before reaching alongside brisk acidity and an elegant, persistent abv: 11.5% Price: $21 a dry finish. Thanks to broad but fine tannins, it mousse. It’s already delicious but will also age well has a surprisingly solid structure for such an easy- over the next few years. Drink through 2019. Pres- Paltrinieri 2013 Leclisse (Lambrusco di Sor- drinking, enjoyable wine. Vinilandia USA. Editors’ tige Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 89 bara). Fruity, fresh and bone dry, this offers Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $49 aromas of bright red berries and a hint of violets. abv: 11.5% Price: $19 The refreshing palate delivers intense strawberry and wild cherry accented with a hint of white pep- Fattoria Moretto 2013 Monovitigno (Lam- PIEDMONT per. Serve chilled and sip on the deck in summer- 88 brusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Juicy time or pair with cold cuts. Porto Vino Italiano. blackberry, blueberry, black cherry, violet, mineral 2011 BARBARESCO —K.O. and black pepper are just some of the aromas and abv: 11% Price: $24 flavors of this savory, vibrant red. Made with or- Giuseppe Cortese 2011 Rabajà (Barbaresco). ganically farmed grapes and fermented with native 95 The potpourri of scents includes rose petal, Paltrinieri 2013 Radice (Lambrusco di Sor- yeasts, it’s earthy, zesty, firmly structured and yet so blue lilac, woodland berry, moist earth and a men- 89 bara). The lovely fragrance recalls crushed drinkable. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Estelle thol note. The savory palate weaves together ripe blue flower and wild berry. The refreshing, frothy Imports. —K.O. black cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, clove palate doles out pink grapefruit, candied cherry and abv: 12% Price: $24 and balsamic sensations supported by firm but nectarine alongside brisk acidity. Pair it with pizza fine tannins. Drink through 2016–2026. Winebow. or pasta topped with dense tomato sauce. Porto Cantina Cavicchioli 2013 Col Sassoso (Lam- —K.O. Vino Italiano. —K.O. 86 brusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 11% Price: $21 of violet, black plum and cassis lead the nose on this nearly opaque, purple-colored wine. The lively, one- Ugo Lequio 2011 Gallina (Barbaresco). Fra- Cantina della Volta 2012 Rimosso (Lambrus- dimensional palate offers black cherry, blackberry 95 grant and balanced, this structured wine 87 co di Sorbara). Aromas of red berry, crushed and a hint of black pepper alongside brisk acidity opens with an alluring fragrance of red rose petal, blue flower and a toasted note take center stage. The and a framework of tight tannins. Frederick Wild- black raspberry, leather and spice. The ripe, savory slightly cloudy palate and fine sediment—a result of man & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. palate delivers mature black cherry, balsamic notes, secondary fermentation in the bottle with no dis- abv: 11% Price: $18 subtle oak and a touch of vanilla, all supported by a gorgement—delivers delicate creamy cherry, juicy firm, tannic backbone and fresh acidity. It’s already raspberry and hint of cinnamon alongside bright Fattoria Moretto NV Frizzante (Lambrusco fabulous but hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2026. acidity. Panebianco, Golden State Wine. —K.O. 86 Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas of this Holiday Beverage. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 inky-purple wine include black plum, pencil shav- abv: 14.5% Price: $65

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Cascina delle Rose 2011 Rio Sordo (Barbares- ange peel, leather and a balsamic note all mingle in ate is still young and needs time to develop fully 94 co). Aromas of blue flower, red rose, ripe the glass. The smooth, savory palate delivers ripe but already delivers layers of dark cherry, licorice, black fruit, leather and balsamic herb lead the nose. black cherry, black raspberry, freshly ground white grilled herb and black pepper alongside brooding The juicy palate delivers a wonderful depth of fla- pepper, cinnamon and licorice alongside firm but tannins. Drink 2016–2026. Monsieur Touton Se- vors including layers of crushed black cherry, mint polished tannins. It’s nicely balanced and very re- lection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. and baking spices alongside big, velvety tannins. It fined. Drink 2016–2026. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 boasts an enviable combination of structure and fi- abv: 14% Price: $47 nesse. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. Albino Rocca 2011 Ronchi (Barbaresco). abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Poderi Colla 2011 Roncaglie (Barbaresco). 92 Lovely fragrances suggest wild berry, red 93 This opens with a classic Nebbiolo fra- flower, moist earth and sweet baking spices. The Castello di Verduno 2011 (Barbaresco). This grance of red rose, leather, perfumed wild berries, palate delivers juicy black cherry layered with notes 94 leads with a beautiful fragrance of red rose, forest floor and a hint of menthol. On the palate, of white pepper, cinnamon and licorice supported iris, red berry, leather, grilled herb and a whiff of white pepper, mint, thyme and eucalyptus notes by a tight framework of youthfully feisty tannins cinnamon. The delicious palate delivers succulent add depth to the mouthwatering wild cherry and that need time to tame. Drink 2016–2024. Multiple black cherry, ripe raspberry, white pepper and a ripe raspberry flavors. It’s still young, with a firm, U.S. importers. —K.O. hint of orange zest alongside assertive but velvety tannic backbone balanced with just enough fresh abv: 14.5% Price: $55 tannins. Give it time to unwind and develop com- acidity. Drink 2018–2026. Montcalm Wine Import- plexity. Drink 2016–2026. Multiple U.S. importers. ers. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Castello di Neive 2011 Albesani Santo Ste- Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $70 92 fano (Barbaresco). From one of the most abv: 14% Price: $50 celebrated vineyards in Barbaresco, this structured Prunotto 2011 Bric Turot (Barbaresco). Aro- wine offers aromas of mature black fruit accented Castello di Verduno 2011 Rabajà (Bar- 93 mas of red and black berries, tilled earth, with whiffs of balsamic herbs and new leather. The 94 baresco). From one of the most celebrated leather and balsamic notes characterize this struc- palate delivers crushed black cherry and rasberry vineyard sites in Barbaresco, this unfolds with a tured, single-vineyard bottling. The savory palate layered with notes of black pepper, licorice and captivating fragrance of red rose and blue flower ac- delivers creamy cherry-berry layered with mint, menthol alongside assertive tannins. It needs time cented with ripples of perfumed berry, tilled earth, white pepper, licorice and balsamic herbs support- to unfold and develop. Drink 2016–2026. Winebow. nectarine zest and balsamic herbs. The juicy palate ed by firm tannins. Drink 2016–2026. Ste. Michelle Cellar Selection. —K.O. delivers ripe Morello cherry, black pepper, mint, Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 balsamic herbs and a hint of espresso supported by abv: NA Price: $71 a backbone of firm tannins. Drink 2016–2026. Mul- Ressia 2011 Canova (Barbaresco). An appeal- tiple U.S. importers. —K.O. Rizzi 2011 Nervo (Barbaresco). Blue flower, 92 ing fragrance of red rose and violet mingled abv: 14% Price: $50 93 ripe berry, baking spice and mint aromas with a whiff of baking spices drifts out of the glass. lead the nose on this full-bodied, elegant wine. The The juicy palate offers crushed Morello cherry, va- Gaja 2011 Barbaresco. Smooth and elegant, palate delivers juicy black cherry, crushed raspber- nilla, licorice and cinnamon alongside firm but fine 94 this opens with a lovely fragrance of vio- ry, cinnamon, licorice and mineral alongside firm, tannins. It’s a balanced, classic Barbaresco. Mul- let, rose, lush dark fruit and a whiff of cake spices. ripe tannins. It’s young but already displays a great tiple U.S. importers—K.O. The juicy palate doles out ripe black cherry, licorice combination of structure and finesse. The Wine abv: NA Price: $45 and mocha alongside silky tannins. It’s surprisingly Company. —K.O. fresh and precise for what was a hot and precocious abv: 14.5% Price: $49 Albino Rocca 2011 Barbaresco. This offers the vintage. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. 91 classic Nebbiolo fragrance of blue flower, abv: 14.5% Price: $235 Sottimano 2011 Fausoni (Barbaresco). red rose, woodland berry, tilled earth and whiffs of 93 Crushed raspberry, blue flower, tilled soil cake spices. The palate delivers ripe black cherry, Pasquale Pelissero 2011 Bricco San Giuliano and graphite aromas lead the nose on this firmly crushed raspberry and white pepper framed in big, 94 (Barbaresco). Complex aromas of red rose, structured wine. It’s still very young and needs to chewy tannins. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. tilled earth, red berry, black pepper, balsamic notes open up fully, but the palate already displays breed- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 and a whiff of barnyard lead the nose on this struc- ing and class. It offers ripe black cherry, ground tured wine. The juicy palate features ripe black black pepper, licorice and grilled sage alongside Bricco Grilli 2011 Serragrilli (Barbaresco). This cherry, crushed raspberry, white pepper and a hint tightly wound but fine tannins. Drink 2018–2026. 91 opens with a pretty fragrance of rose, vanilla, of mocha alongside fresh acidity and firm but pol- Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. black fruit and subtle oak. The juicy palate offers ished tannins. Drink 2016–2026. Massanois Im- abv: 14.5% Price: $58 red cherry, black raspberry, white pepper and a hint ports. —K.O. of cocoa alongside supple tannins. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $37 Sottimano 2011 Pajorè (Barbaresco). Ripe abv: NA Price: $NA 93 and delicious, this starts off with aromas of De Forville 2011 Barbaresco. Full-bodied fresh violet, rose, perfumed berry, exotic spice and Rivetto 2011 Cè Vanin (Barbaresco). Fresh red 93 and soulful, this entices with fragrances of tilled earth. It’s still young but the palate already 91 rose, blue flower, bright red berry and bak- crushed blue flower, rose petal, pine forest, per- delivers a great depth of flavors including juicy ing spices lead the nose on this structured wine. fumed berry and notes of tilled soil. The juicy palate black cherry, crushed raspberry, clove and black The palate delivers juicy red cherry, cinnamon and offers layers of ripe dark cherry, crushed raspberry, pepper alongside chewy tannins. Drink 2016 to white pepper alongside notes of mint and balsamic black pepper, leather and cinnamon alongside as- 2021. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. herbs. It’s a bit austere with bracing tannins that sertive but fine tannins and bright acidity. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $58 need time to soften. Drink after 2017. Voliovino. 2016–2026. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —K.O. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $35 Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2011 Basarin (Bar- abv: 14% Price: $40 92 baresco). This single-vineyard offering Michele Chiarlo 2011 Reyna (Barbaresco). opens with aromas of blue flower, tilled soil, ripe Ada Nada 2011 Elisa (Barbaresco). A big, 93 Scents of bright red berry, violet, rose, or- berry, balsamic notes and a hint of leather. The pal- 90 soulful wine, this has slightly funky, earthy

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aromas that include tilled soil, truffle, leather, un- cha alongside youthfully assertive tannins. Soilair Il Bricco 2011 Barbaresco. Although the nose derbrush and mature black fruit. The fleshy palate Selection. —K.O. 89 isn’t very expressive, the palate offers up delivers ripe black cherry, juicy raspberry, white abv: 14.5% Price: $48 ripe sour cherry, black pepper, sage and licorice pepper, cinnamon, vanilla and a touch of mocha. It’s alongside bracing tannins. Young and aggressive, structured, with tightly woven tannins that need Rivetti Massimo 2011 Froi (Barbaresco). this needs time. Drink after 2018. —K.O. time to soften. Drink after 2016. Vignaioli Selec- 90 This structured wine features an enticing abv: NA Price: $NA tion. —K.O. fragrance of red rose petal, blue flower and a whiff of abv: NA Price: $41 crushed red berry. The robust palate delivers juicy Marchesi di Barolo 2011 (Barbaresco). This black cherry layered with notes of spice, vanilla, to- 89 straightforward Barbaresco opens with a Albino Rocca 2011 Ovello Vigna Loreto (Bar- bacco and alongside firm tannins that need pretty nose of wild rose, crushed red berry and bal- 90 baresco). Earthy, alluring fragrances sug- time to unfold. Superior Wines. —K.O. samic notes. The palate delivers ripe black cherry, gest bright berry, rose petal and tilled soil. The pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 licorice and cinnamon alongside chewy tannins. ate delivers ripe, wild cherry completed by notes of Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. vanilla, white and black pepper alongside youthful, Socré 2011 Roncaglie (Barbaresco). Fra- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 bracing tannins. Drink 2016–2024. Multiple U.S. 90 grances suggest wild berry layered with importers. —K.O. notes of forest floor, red rose, leather, clove and Marchesi di Barolo 2011 Serragrilli (Barbares- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 balsam. On the palate, sage, thyme and espresso 89 co). Aromas include ripe plum, blackberry, back up sensations of ripe Morello cherry alongside vanilla, coffee and a hint of toasted oak. On the pal- Cascina Bruciata 2011 Barbaresco. Aromas tightly woven and assertive tannins that need time ate, notes of mocha and chocolate back up candied 90 include red flower, iris, black fruit, baking to unwind. Drink 2016–2023. David Vincent Selec- cherry and black raspberry. Firm tannins support spices and a whiff of eucalyptus. On the palate, cin- tion. —K.O. the juicy flavors. Drink through 2021. Frederick namon, sage, mint and a hint of vanilla add depth to abv: 14.5% Price: $49 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. the sour cherry and black raspberry flavors. It’s still abv: 14.5% Price: $80 young with tight, drying tannins that need time to Sottimano 2011 Cottà (Barbaresco). This unwind. Drink 2016–2021. Soilair Selection. —K.O. 90 structured Barbaresco offers aromas of ripe Socré 2011 Barbaresco. This opens with a abv: 14.5% Price: $35 black fruit, espresso and balsamic notes. The fleshy 89 classic Nebbiolo fragrance of red rose, blue palate delivers crushed black cherry, licorice, coffee flower, tilled earth and wild berry. Notes of truffle Cascina Luisin 2011 Rabajà (Barbaresco). bean, black pepper and grilled herb alongside grippy and vanilla accent a core of juicy, ripe black cherry 90 This leads off with aromas of mature black tannins that need a few years to soften and unwind. flavors framed in robust tannins. Drink 2015–2021. fruit, toasted oak, coffee bean and a whiff of balsam- Drink after 2017. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. David Vincent Selection. —K.O. ic herbs. The ripe palate delivers fleshy red cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 14% Price: $29 and black raspberry with layers of cocoa, espresso and sage alongside bracing tannins. Acid Inc Selec- Bersano 2011 Mantico (Barbaresco). Aromas Bera 2011 Barbaresco. Aromas suggest black tions. —K.O. 89 of licorice, black cherry and a whiff of cook- 88 plum, black berry, scorched earth, espresso abv: NA Price: $65 ing spices lead the nose. The palate delivers dark and a hint of vanilla. The robust palate delivers cherry, ripe raspberry, white pepper, and notes of crushed black cherry and black pepper alongside Castello di Neive 2011 Barbaresco. This full- anisette and sage alongside bracing tannins. Vin Di- astringent, drying tannins. Winebow. —K.O. 90 bodied wine reveals aromas of wild berry vino. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $40 and allspice accented with a balsamic note. The pal- abv: 14% Price: $45 ate is still rather closed but delivers black cherry, Bosio 2011 Barbaresco. Aromas include black pepper, sage and licorice alongside tightly wo- Ca’Romè 2011 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco). Sub- 88 menthol, eucalyptus, leather, mature berry ven tannins that need to unwind. Drink 2016–2023. 89 tle aromas include crushed flower, forest and a whiff of cellar floor. The palate needs time to Winebow. —K.O. floor, graphite, black berry and a note of menthol. open fully but it offers dried black cherry, roasted abv: NA Price: $35 The ripe palate offers red cherry-berry and a hint coffee bean and espresso alongside astringent tan- of cinnamon alongside muted but drying tannins. nins. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. Castello di Neive 2011 Gallina (Barbaresco). Drink through 2021. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $37 90 Mature black fruit, leather, wild berries abv: 14.5% Price: $97 and balsamic notes waft out of the glass. The solid CarlindePaolo 2011 Barbaresco. Aromas re- palate delivers red cherry, toast and a whiff of or- Ceretto 2011 Asili (Barbaresco). From one of 88 call crushed raspberry, anisette, tilled earth ange peel alongside bracing tannins. —K.O. 89 the most esteemed vineyards in the denom- and a whiff of cellar must. The soft palate doles out abv: NA Price: $NA ination, this features aromas of oak, toast, black ripe black cherry, licorice and white pepper along- berry and a whiff of rubber. The palate offers plum, side polished tannins. It doesn’t have much com- Ceretto 2011 Bernardot (Barbaresco). Pretty black cherry, roasted coffee bean, spearmint and plexity but it’s savory and already enjoyable. Drink 90 aromas suggest violet, sandalwood, in- vanilla alongside bracing tannins. Winebow. —K.O. through 2017. Curious Vine. —K.O. cense, plum and chocolate. The ripe palate offers abv: 14.5% Price: $195 abv: 14% Price: $39 crushed black cherry, mocha, espresso and vanilla alongside firm tannins. A licorice note signals the Elvio Cogno 2011 Bordini (Barbaresco). In- Cascina Morassino 2011 Barbaresco. Aromas close. Winebow. —K.O. 89 tense aromas recall forest floor, tobacco, 88 of ripe red berry, scorched earth, leather, abv: 14.5% Price: $93 dark berry and grilled herb. The structured palate spice and balsamic notes lead the nose on this ro- offers dried black cherry, licorice, black pepper and bust wine. The youthful palate is still closed but re- Oddero 2011 Gallina (Barbaresco). This balsamic notes alongside big, brooding tannins. The veals mature black cherry, clove, black pepper and a 90 starts with aromas of rose, crushed violet, warmth of alcohol shows on the midpalate. Wilson hint of espresso alongside brooding tannins. Tosco red berry and mint. The palate delivers red and Daniels Ltd. —K.O. Wines. —K.O. black cherry accented with notes of cocoa and mo- abv: 14.5% Price: $47 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 La Ganghija 2011 Barbaresco. Ripe berry, roasted coffee bean alongside abrasive wood tan- fee and a hint of sage alongside subdued but drying 88 black plum, toasted oak and espresso aro- nins. Chigazola Merchants. —K.O. tannins. Drink through 2021. MW Imports. —K.O. mas lead the nose on this young wine. The palate abv: 14.5% Price: $62 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 offers black cherry, prune, roasted coffee bean and sage alongside fresh acidity. Tightly compacted and Giribaldi 2011 Barbaresco. This opens with Pietro Rinaldi 2011 San Cristoforo (Barbares- still raspy tannins need time to soften. Drink after 87 aromas of plum, espresso, truffle and just 87 co). This opens with aromas of black ber- 2017. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O. a whiff of barnyard. The ripe palate delivers juicy ries, toasted oak and spice. On the palate, notes of abv: NA Price: $NA black cherry, crushed raspberry, roasted coffee bean espresso, roasted coffee bean and vanilla back up and mocha alongside muted, drying tannins. It’s ripe black cherry but drying wood tannins give it an Nada Giuseppe 2011 Casot (Barbaresco). already accessible and evolving quickly so enjoy it abrupt finish. WineBee.com. —K.O. 88 Earthy aromas suggest tilled earth, mature sooner rather than later. Drink through 2016. Opera abv: 14.5% Price: $52 fruit, truffle and a just whiff of barnyard. The ripe Wine Imports. —K.O. palate offers mature black cherry, plum and cinna- abv: 14% Price: $48 Rocca Felice 2011 Barbaresco. Bright red ber- mon alongside bracing tannins. American North- 87 ry and violet aromas lead off this soft, me- west Distributors Inc. —K.O. Michele Chiarlo 2011 Asili (Barbaresco). This dium-bodied red. The palate offers dark cherry and abv: NA Price: $40 87 vineyard-designate Barbaresco features aro- a whiff of white pepper alongside round tannins. mas of espresso, toasted oak and baked black fruit. It’s already accessible so enjoy soon. Drink through Negro Giuseppe 2011 Gallina (Barbaresco). The palate offers roasted coffee bean, vanilla and 2017. Saranty Imports. —K.O. 88 Pretty floral fragrances of red rose and blue dried cherry alongside drying wood tannins. Ko- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 flower mingle with whiffs of red berry and baking brand. —K.O. spices. The palate offers black cherry, black rasp- abv: 14% Price: $95 Giacosa Fratelli 2011 Basarin Vigna Gianmatè berry, vanilla, coffee bean and cinnamon alongside 86 (Barbaresco). This warm expression of bracing tannins. It ends on a confectionary note. Moccagatta 2011 Basarin (Barbaresco). Aro- Nebbiolo opens with aromas of stewed prunes, resin IBESC Wine Distributor. —K.O. 87 mas of mature plum, blackberry, toasted oak and raisin. The palate offers plums steeped in spir- abv: NA Price: $NA and vanilla carry over to the palate along with coffee its and espresso alongside green wood tannins that and espresso. Raspy wood tannins give an astrin- generate an abrupt finish. Bedford International. Rattalino 2011 Quarantacinque45 Ronchi gent finish. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. —K.O. 88 (Barbaresco). Aromas of rose petals, blue abv: 15% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $55 flower and ripe berries waft out of the glass along with a whiff of farmyard. The ripe palate delivers Molino 2011 Teorema (Barbaresco). This isn’t La Contea 2011 Serragrilli (Barbaresco). Ini- crushed Morello cherry sweetened up with vanilla 87 overly expressive but reveals nuances of blue 86 tially quite closed, the palate eventually re- alongside drying tannins. Aviva Vino. —K.O. flower, black cherry and chocolate that carry over veals sensations of mature black fruit, roasted cof- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 to the palate along with prune and roasted coffee fee bean, vanilla and espresso. It lacks fruit richness bean. Drying wood tannins give it a mouthpuckering and is overwhelmed by astringent wood tannins. Ada Nada 2011 Valeirano (Barbaresco). close. BPW Merchants. —K.O. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. 87 Fruity aromas of ripe red berry and mature abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: NA Price: $NA plum are accompanied by whiffs of baking spice and fennel. The palate offers oak, espresso, licorice and Negro Angelo e Figli 2011 Cascinotta (Bar- Orlando Abrigo 2011 Meruzzano (Barbares- toast framed by astringent, woody tannins. Vignai- 87 baresco). Aromas recall toasted oak, espres- 86 co). Toasted oak, coffee and vanilla lead the oli Selection. —K.O. so and allspice. The palate delivers oak extract, nose and carry over to the palate along with dense abv: NA Price: $41 toast, vanilla and roasted coffee bean but not much cherry extract and espresso. Raspy wood tannins fruit. Bracing tannins leave a drying finish. The leave an astringent, abrupt finish. Ionia Atlantic Barale Fratelli 2011 Serraboella (Barbaresco). Piedmont Guy. —K.O. Imports, LLC. —K.O. 87 Ripe berry, subtle oak, spice and balsamic abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: NA Price: $55 herb aromas lead the nose on this full-bodied wine. The palate offers raw red cherry, white pepper and Pelissero 2011 Nubiola (Barbaresco). This Prinsi 2011 Gaia Principe (Barbaresco). Aro- sage alongside notes of espresso and toast. Astrin- 87 features aromas of oak, coffee, vanilla and 86 mas of butterscotch, toasted oak, roasted gent tannins generate a mouth-puckering finish. dried black cherry. Oak carries over to the palate, coffee and espresso follow through to the pal- Chambers Street Wines. —K.O. delivering espresso, licorice, roasted nut and vanilla ate along with notes of black pepper. There’s not abv: NA Price: $NA but not much fruit richness. Astringent tannins give enough fruit richness to stand up to the astringent, it a mouth drying finish. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. woody tannins. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. Ca’Romè 2011 Chiaramanti (Barbaresco). abv: 14.5% Price: $49 abv: NA Price: $43 87 Toasted oak, espresso and red berry aromas lead the nose. The palate delivers roasted coffee Pertinace 2011 Marcarini (Barbaresco). Aro- Prinsi 2011 Gallina (Barbaresco). Aromas of bean, toast and black pepper but not a lot of fruit 87 mas recall wet earth, leafy underbrush, fen- 86 toasted oak, espresso, chocolate and mocha richness. Astringent wood tannins give a mouth- nel, red berry and a balsamic note. The palate offers echo on the palate, along with notes of chocolate drying finish. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. raw red cherry, ground white pepper and grilled and mocha. But it lacks fruit richness and can’t abv: 14.5% Price: $94 sage alongside rather astringent, fleeting tannins. stand up to the astringent wood tannins. Enotec Drink through 2021. MW Imports. —K.O. Imports, Inc. —K.O. Fontanabianca 2011 Bordini (Barbaresco). abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 87 Aromas highlight bright berry, plum and baking spices. On the palate, raw Morello cherry Pertinace 2011 Nervo (Barbaresco). Notes of Sorelle De Nicola 2011 Bordini Vigna di Mon- takes center stage backed by notes of espresso and 87 forest floor, grilled herb, scorched earth and 86 tesommo (Barbaresco). Aromas recall resin ripe blackberry lead the nose. The soft palate offers and nail polish remover. The palate displays stewed fleshy black cherry, licorice, roasted hazelnut, cof-

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prune, fig, nutmeg and espresso alongside astrin- the next decade. Drink 2018–2030. Multiple U.S. ing spice alongside assertive tannins. Uva Imports. gent tannins that dry out the mouth. —K.O. importers. Cellar Selection. —K.O. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $79 abv: 14% Price: $55

Vigin 2011 Noemy (Barbaresco). Aromas of Punset 2010 Barbaresco. Structured and en- Malgrà 2010 Monciraldo (Barbaresco). This 86 oak, roasted coffee bean and chocolate-cov- 93 ergetic, this has a balsamic nose that offers 87 initially has a rather muted nose that even- ered cherry lead the nose and carry on to the palate aromas of menthol, mint, fennel, ripe berry, leather tually reveals blackberry, espresso and dark spices. along with notes of vanilla and toast. It doesn’t have and a whiff of violet. The palate delivers crushed red The straightforward palate offers black raspberry, enough fruit richness to stand up to the abrasive, cherry, black raspberry, baking spices and licorice coffee, and white pepper alongside compacted, dry- astringent tannins that dry out the mouth. Domace alongside assertive tannins and fresh acidity. Drink ing tannins. Caput Mundi Wine Import. —K.O. Vino. —K.O. 2017–2025. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $29 abv: NA Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $43 Reversanti 2010 Barbaresco. Aromas of for- Cascina Saria 2011 Colle del Gelso (Barbares- Ca’Romè 2010 Maria di Brun (Barbaresco). 87 est floor, red berry, leather and a whiff of 85 co). Rather unusual aromas of raisin and 92 An enticing fragrance of rose, blue flower, balsam lead the nose on this shy wine. The palate resin continue to the palate along with a note of lic- incense and truffle wafts out of the glass. On the pal- is rather closed but shows subdued licorice, black orice. There’s not enough fruit richness to support ate, accents of black pepper, espresso and licorice pepper and dried black cherry. Empson USA Ltd. the astringent, mouth-drying tannins. Baldocchino add depth to the bright cherry-berry fruit, while —K.O. Fine Wines . —K.O. polished tannins give it a smooth, silky texture. It’s abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: NA Price: $NA well balanced and fresh. Drink 2018–2030. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Tenuta Carretta 2010 Cascina Bordino (Bar- abv: 14.5% Price: $113 87 baresco). Fragrances recall underbrush, 2010 BARBARESCO espresso, tilled soil, red berry and dried sage. The Fontanafredda 2010 Coste Rubin (Barbares- monolithic palate delivers coffee bean, vanilla, lico- Pio Cesare 2010 Barbaresco. Perfumed and 92 co). This opens with a pretty fragrance of rice and toast alongside astringent wood tannins. 94 structured, this opens with a beautiful fra- violet, exotic spice and perfumed berry. The juicy Specialty Cellars. —K.O. grance of intense violet layered with bright raspber- palate doles out ripe black cherry, crushed rasp- abv: 14% Price: $50 ry and balsamic notes. The palate has nice depth, berry, freshly ground pepper, mocha and anisette. delivering juicy wild cherry accented with vanilla, It’s nicely balanced with fresh acidity and firm but Tenuta Carretta 2010 Garassino (Barbares- cinnamon, mocha and a note of Mediterranean polished tannins. Palm Bay International. —K.O. 87 co). Aromas suggest forest floor, anisette, herbs. It’s nicely balanced with bright acidity and abv: 14.5% Price: $69 hay and dill. The palate delivers roasted coffee bean, firm tannins that give it an age-worthy structure. plum and a hint of mocha alongside evolved tan- Drink through 2030. Maisons Marques & Domaines Veglio 2010 Barbaresco. Fresh and refined, nins. Wine Emporium. —K.O. USA. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 92 this has an intensely fruity nose of wild abv: 13.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 berry, forest floor, pine and rose petal. The bright palate doles out crushed strawberry, Morello cher- Natale Verga 2010 Barbaresco. Accessible Punset 2010 Basarin (Barbaresco). Bright ry, vanilla and cinnamon alongside smooth, supple 86 and straightforward, this offers dark cher- 94 and balanced, this has an intriguing bal- tannins and bright acidity. Nicely balanced and fo- ry, crushed raspberry and mocha flavors alongside samic fragrance of menthol and eucalyptus layered cused. Drink through 2025. Bacco Wine & Spirit, muted tannins. Drink through 2017. Jandell Selec- with black cherry, leather and sandalwood. The LLC. —K.O. tions. —K.O. fresh, delineated palate offers wild cherry, crushed abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $19 raspberry, white pepper, mint and balsamic notes alongside supple tannins that give a smooth tex- Alessandro Rivetto 2010 Barbaresco. Aromas Tenuta Carretta 2010 Terzius (Barbaresco). ture. Drink through 2025. Multiple U.S. importers. 91 recall blue flower, new leather, truffle and 86 Leafy underbrush, tire rubber, mocha, and —K.O. crushed raspberry. The bright palate offers wild vanilla lead the nose. The palate offers dried plum, abv: 14% Price: $43 cherry, cake spices, alpine herbs and a sprinkling of fennel, coffee and vanilla alongside evolved, fleeting cocoa. It’s well balanced and fresh with firm but fine tannins. Wine Emporium. —K.O. Rizzi 2010 Barbaresco. Elegant and full-bod- tannins. Nicola Biscardo Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 94 ied, this reveals an earthy fragrance of for- abv: 14% Price: $NA est floor, tilled earth, crushed blue flower, perfumed Torlasco 2010 Barbaresco. This opens with berry, leather and anisette. The vibrant palate deliv- Pio Cesare 2010 Bricco di Treiso (Barbares- 86 aromas of leafy underbrush, grilled mush- ers layers of juicy red cherry, wild raspberry, lico- 89 co). At first closed, this eventually opens room, dark berry, wet earth and a hint of cellar floor. rice, white pepper and cinnamon alongside supple up in the glass to reveal exotic spice, blue flower, The uncomplicated palate delivers dark cherry and tannins and bright acidity. Drink through 2030. The espresso and dried blackberry. The palate is a bit espresso alongside angular tannins. Wines d’Italia Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O. shy but shows black cherry, mocha and vanilla LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $36 alongside drying tannins. Maisons Marques & Do- abv: 13.5% Price: $49 maines USA. —K.O. Sottimano 2010 Currà (Barbaresco). Fra- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 94 grant and refined, this wine is all about fi- 2009 BARBARESCO nesse and balance. It’s perfumed with blue flower, Demarie 2010 Barbaresco. This earthy wine rose petal, woodland berry, pine, spice and balsamic 88 features aromas of truffle, ripe plum, leath- Produttori del Barbaresco 2009 Montefico notes. The palate offers layers of black cherry, juicy er and just a whiff of barnyard. The palate offers 94 Riserva (Barbaresco). From the celebrated raspberry, licorice and spice alongside firm but black cherry, crushed raspberry and notes of bak- Montefico vineyard site, this opens with a floral polished tannins. It’s still primary but already has fragrance of rose petal, blue flower and perfumed great depth and will develop more complexity over red berry. The delicious palate delivers layers of

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and that are more than 60 years old, it’s delicious and brooding, bracing tannins. It’s already impressive white pepper alongside firm tannins. Drink after impeccably balanced with freshness and big, velvety but will continue to evolve for decades. Drink 2018– 2017. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. tannins. Hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2033. Po- 2033. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 laner Selections, Louis/Dressner Selections. Cellar abv: 14% Price: $140 Selection. —K.O. Produttori del Barbaresco 2009 Monteste- abv: 14% Price: $162 Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2009 Mon- 93 fano Riserva (Barbaresco). Underbrush, 96 privato (Barolo). One of Barolo’s most tobacco, dark cherry, licorice and grilled herb are Roagna 2008 Montefico Vecchie Viti (Bar- iconic bottlings, this shows breeding and elegance just some of the aromas offered by this structured 95 baresco). Dark cherry, licorice, leather, despite the extreme heat of the vintage. A beauti- wine. The palate delivers mature black cherry, black thyme, mint and balsamic notes are just some of ful fragrance of red rose, violet and perfumed berry pepper, sage and licorice alongside tongue-coating the sensations offered by this gorgeous wine. Made accompanies a whiff of cake spices. The silky palate tannins that need time to soften. It hails from a top from 50- and 60-year-old vines that have never delivers succulent wild cherry, licorice, white pep- vineyard site and is an impressive effort from this been treated with chemicals, it delivers finesse, per and cinnamon impeccably balanced by supple hot, dry vintage. Drink 2017–2024. Vias Imports. structure, balance and complexity. It’s still young tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2017–2029. Rare Cellar Selection. —K.O. and tightly tannic so give it time. Drink 2018–2038. Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Polaner Selections, Louis/Dressner Selections. Cel- abv: 14.5% Price: $99 lar Selection. —K.O. Produttori del Barbaresco 2009 Pora Riserva abv: 14% Price: $162 Principiano Ferdinando 2008 Boscareto 91 (Barbaresco). This full-bodied wine of- 96 (Barolo). Made from vines that are more fers classic Nebbiolo aromas of underbrush, black Cantina Terre del Barolo 2008 Riserva (Bar- than 40 years old and cultivated using only natural cherry, leather and a whiff of baking spices. It’s still 88 baresco). Subtle aromas of violet, baking methods, this wine embodies power and finesse. It young, delivering raspberry, clove, cinnamon and spice and red berry lead the nose on this straight- opens with aromas of leather, menthol, ripe black grilled herb framed by tightly woven tannins. Give forward wine. The palate delivers dark cherry and cherry, blackberry, black pepper and eucalyptus. this time to unwind. Drink after 2019. Vias Imports. white pepper alongside soft tannins. It’s showing The structured palate delivers layers of mature ber- —K.O. some age but will offer easy-drinking enjoyment ry, baking spice, mineral, truffle and balsamic notes. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 through 2018. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. It’s young but impeccably balanced with velvety abv: 14% Price: $27 tannins. Drink 2018–2038. Multiple U.S. import- Orlando Abrigo 2009 Montersino (Barbares- ers. Cellar Selection. —K.O. 88 co). Straightforward and already accessible, abv: 15% Price: $85 this opens with aromas of rubber, coffee, vanilla, 2004 BARBARESCO toasted oak and plum cake. The extracted palate Sordo 2008 Rocche di Castiglione Riserva delivers mature black cherry, chocolate, and sage Roagna 2004 Crichët Pajè (Barbaresco). 96 (Barolo). This structured wine opens with alongside evolved, fleeting tannins. Enjoy through 99 Leather, rose, blue flower, balsamic notes, classic Barolo aromas of red rose, wild cherry, leath- 2019. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. mineral, black cherry, baking spice and thyme are er and forest floor. The focused, balsamic-driven abv: 14% Price: $50 just some of the sensations offered by this breath- palate doles out succulent black cherry, crushed takingly gorgeous wine that boasts power and fi- raspberry, black pepper, sage, eucalyptus, mint, Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy nesse. At 10, it’s still shockingly youthful and vi- thyme and licorice alongside firm but ripe tannins 88 2009 Camp Gros (Barbaresco). Still rather brant, with great depth and balance, but it still has and fresh acidity. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. closed, this eventually reveals aromas of roasted years to go. Drink 2020–2044. Polaner Selections, abv: 14.5% Price: $100 coffee bean, white pepper and mature berry. The Louis/Dressner Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. palate is also subdued, offering dried cherry, espres- abv: 13.5% Price: $550 Attilio Ghisolfi 2008 Fantini Riserva (Baro- so and toasted oak alongside astringent wood tan- 95 lo). Beguiling scents of rose, blue flower, nins. Reflecting the forward nature of the vintage, perfumed red berry, leather and exotic spice open the fruit is starting to dry up. Dalla Terra Winery this firmly structured, glossy wine. A backbone of Direct. —K.O. BAROLO assertive but refined tannins support the juicy wild abv: 14.5% Price: $70 cherry, raspberry, cinnamon, white pepper, licorice Roagna 2008 Pira Vecchie Viti (Barolo). and balsamic flavors alongside vibrant acidity. It’s Orlando Abrigo 2009 Rongalio (Barbaresco). 98 Layers of aromas include blue flower, rose, already gorgeous but let it soften up and develop 87 Aromas of underbrush, violet, dried sage baking spices, sandalwood and perfumed berry. complexity. Drink 2018–2038. Quintessential and leather lead the nose. The palate is a bit closed These follow through to flavors of crushed red Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. but offers dried cherry, prune, licorice and espresso cherry, cinnamon, white pepper and thyme. Made abv: 14.5% Price: $120 alongside firm but fleeting tannins. Reflecting the from vines that are more than 60 years old, it’s im- heat of the vintage, it’s evolving quickly. Opera peccably balanced with freshness and big, velvety Cavallotto 2008 Vignolo Riserva (Barolo). Wine Imports. —K.O. tannins. Hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2033. Po- 95 Layered fragrances recall rose, violet, per- abv: 14% Price: $50 laner Selections, Louis/Dressner Selections. Cellar fumed berry, leather, tilled earth and baking spices. Selection. —K.O. The delineated palate delivers juicy Morello cherry, abv: 14% Price: $162 white and black pepper, cinnamon and herb along- 2008 BARBARESCO side firm but velvety tannins and vibrant acidity. Massolino 2008 Vigna Rionda Riserva (Baro- Give it time to develop complexity. Drink 2018– Roagna 2008 Pajè Vecchie Viti (Barbaresco). 97 lo). From one of the most hallowed vineyard 2038. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. 97 This fragrant, stunning wine opens with lay- sites in Barolo, this structured, compelling wine —K.O. ers of aromas that include blue flower, rose, bak- opens with aromas of ripe black cherry, leather, abv: 14.5% Price: $100 ing spices, sandalwood and perfumed berry that anisette, cooking spices and balsamic notes. The follow through to crushed red cherry, cinnamon, vibrant palate weaves together dark cherry, black Luigi Oddero & Figli 2008 Rocche Rivera white pepper and thyme flavors. Made from vines raspberry, licorice, mint and black pepper alongside 95 (Barolo). The multi-dimensional fragrance

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gathers crushed blue flower, red rose, perfumed Borgogno 2009 Barolo. Intense aromas Clerico 2010 Ciabot Mentin (Barolo). Mint, berry, pine, leather, grilled herb and cake spices. 93 of dried rose, leather, truffle and crushed 91 anisette and red berry aromas lead the nose. The intense palate delivers fleshy black cherry, wild berry lead the nose. The ripe, forward palate offers These follow through to the palate along with lico- raspberry, licorice, white pepper and cinnamon crushed black cherry, wild raspberry, cinnamon rice, espresso, coffee, toasted oak and black pepper. alongside assertive but refined tannins and fresh white pepper and sage alongside chewy tannins. It’s tightly framed with drying wood tannins, but acidity. Drink 2018–2028. Ionia Atlantic Imports, Drink 2015–2022. Domaine Select Wine Estates. the bright fruit stands up to the strong oak influ- LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O. —K.O. ence. Drink after 2020. Michael Skurnik Wines. abv: 14.5% Price: $99 abv: 14.5% Price: $80 —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $90 Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2009 (Barolo). Germano Ettore 2008 Lazzarito Riserva 95 Focused and loaded with finesse, this opens 93 (Barolo). Rose, leather, menthol, eucalyp- Viberti 2007 La Volta Riserva (Barolo). Dense with a fragrance of freshly picked roses, violets, tus, spice and black berry aromas lead the nose on 91 and full-bodied, this delivers sensations of perfumed berry, fennel and alpine herbs. The pal- this structured wine. The vibrant palate delivers asphalt, menthol, grilled herb, mature black cherry ate is extremely elegant, weaving together bright Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, black pepper, and game. Reflecting the heat of the vintage, it’s ripe red cherry layered with notes of white pepper and thyme and sage alongside youthfully aggressive tan- and forward but firmly knit tannins give it a solid cake spices alongside supple, silky tannins and nins and lively acidity. It’s balanced but still needs backbone that will allow it to age for several more fresh acidity. Tempting now but hold for complex- to time to bloom. Drink 2018–2038. Multiple U.S. years. Opici Wines. —K.O. ity. Drink 2016–2024. Rare Wine Company. Cellar importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $105 Selection. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Cascina Bongiovanni 2010 Barolo. Menthol, Viberti 2007 San Pietro Riserva (Barolo). 90 crushed flower, red raspberry and savory Paolo Scavino 2008 Rocche dell’Annunziata 93 Balsamic aromas of menthol and eucalyptus herb aromas unfold in the glass. The palate conveys 95 Riserva (Barolo). Perfumed with layers of unfold in the glass and mingle with scents of leath- juicy red cherry, white pepper and cinnamon along- violet, rose, leather, ripe black fruit, thyme and er, licorice and dark berry. The concentrated pal- side supple tannins. It’s surprisingly accessible for mint sensations, this structured yet graceful wine ate delivers dried black cherry, crushed raspberry, such a young Barolo. Drink 2016–2022. Empson shows youthful tension and energy. The delicious black pepper and grilled herb alongside velvety tan- USA Ltd. —K.O. palate delivers crushed black cherry, black pepper, nins. Drink 2015–2022. Opici Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $56 cinnamon, mocha, black tea and tobacco alongside abv: 14.5% Price: $105 smooth, velvety tannins. Give it time to develop Cascina del Monastero 2008 Riund Bricco fully. Drink 2018–2038. Multiple U.S. importers. Conterno Fantino 2010 Vigna del Gris (Baro- 90 Rocca Riserva (Barolo). Rose petal, leather, Cellar Selection. —K.O. 92 lo). Sweet oak, vanilla, plum, violet and mo- wet soil, truffle and red berry aromas lead the nose abv: 14.5% Price: $170 cha aromas lead the nose on this structured wine. and follow through to the ripe palate along with The oak influence carries over to the palate together cherry-berry, white pepper and mint. It’s delicious Prunotto 2008 Bussia Vigna Colonnello with ripe black cherry, leather and baking spice. The and already surprisingly accessible. Drink 2016– 95 Riserva (Barolo). Fermented with the stems, tightly compacted tannins need time to unwind. 2023. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —K.O. this fascinating, single-vineyard bottling offers Drink 2020–2035. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 an enticing fragrance of rose, dried cherry, leather abv: 14.5% Price: $92 and an intense balsamic note. The delicious palate Casetta 2008 Riserva (Barolo). Initially weaves together sweet Morello cherry, wild straw- Piazzo Armando 2008 Sottocastello di No- 90 a bit closed, this opens with aromas of berry, eucalyptus, white pepper, cinnamon and a 92 vello Riserva (Barolo). Red berry, blue lilac, leather, leafy underbrush, tilled soil, wild berry and blast of orange zest alongside firm, polished tannins baking spice and Mediterranean herb lead the nose. a whiff of cellar floor. The palate is still primary, and vibrant acidity. Drink 2018–2048. Ste. Mi- On the palate, notes of white pepper, sage and to- displaying red cherry, sage and menthol alongside chelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —K.O. bacco back up the bright red cherry flavors. It’s still tightly knit tannins. Drink after 2018. D&G Distrib- abv: 14% Price: $200 young, with aggressive tannins and bright acidity. utors. —K.O. Drink after 2018. Angelini Wine. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $68 Borgogno 2007 Riserva (Barolo). Tradition- abv: 14% Price: $50 94 ally crafted, this opens with classic Nebbi- Clerico 2010 Pajana (Barolo). Ripe berry, olo aromas of leather, tilled earth, dried rose petal, Rivetto 2008 Leon Riserva (Barolo). Un- 90 tilled earth, violet, grilled herb and coffee ripe berry and grilled herb. The ripe palate delivers 92 derbrush, tobacco leaf, leather, truffle and aromas lead the nose on this firmly structured wine. mature black cherry, crushed raspberry, black pep- blackberry aromas take center stage along with The palate delivers black cherry, crushed raspberry, per and baking spices alongside firm but refined whiffs of toast and fig. The palate shows black chocolate, anisette and black pepper. It’s supported tannins. Drink through 2022. Domaine Select Wine cherry, carob, bitter cocoa, white pepper and sage by a backbone of bracing, astringent tannins. Mi- Estates. Cellar Selection. —K.O. alongside bracing tannins that leave a drying finish. chael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $115 Voliovino. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $90 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2010 Terlo Costa Grimal- Luigi Oddero & Figli 2007 Vigna Rionda 94 di (Barolo). Violet, perfumed berry, forest Ciabot Berton 2010 Rocchettevino (Barolo). 90 (Barolo). Aromas recall fennel, grilled herb, floor, grilled herb and anisette aromas jump out of 91 Aromas of violet and rose as well as notes of leather, mocha and a whiff of balsam. Reflecting the the glass of this vibrant wine. The focused palate of- leather and spice waft from the glass. The firm pal- heat of the vintage, the palate is already evolved but fers crushed wild cherry and black raspberry along ate offers dried black cherry, black raspberry, white still shows dried black cherry and black pepper. with accents of white pepper, cinnamon, licorice pepper and savory herb alongside assertive tannins Drink through 2017. Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. and mint. It’s balanced with brisk acidity and firm that still need years to unwind. Drink 2020–2030. —K.O. but refined tannins. Drink 2020–2030. Empson Specialty Cellars. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $129 USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14% Price: $106

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 Marchesi di Barolo 2009 Barolo. Aromas of Clerico 2010 Briccotto (Barolo). Not very ex- Mario Gagliasso 2010 Rocche 90 black cherry, licorice, leather, violet and a 89 pressive, this shows subdued aromas that 88 dell’Annunziata (Barolo). Aromas of oak, whiff of tobacco open this wine. The palate is still a recall coconut, toasted oak, espresso and raw, red toast, mature plum, blue flower and spice lead the bit closed but delivers black raspberry, wild cherry, berry. The palate delivers red berry, licorice, mo- nose. The palate offers black cherry, vanilla, toasted anisette and a note of black pepper alongside big, cha and vanilla alongside mild tannins. It’s already oak and mocha alongside extremely astringent tan- brooding tannins that need time to come around. surprisingly accessible. Drink 2015–2020. Michael nins that leave a tongue-drying finish. Kysela Père Drink 2017–2024. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Skurnik Wines. —K.O. et Fils. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $250/1.5 L abv: 15% Price: $66 abv: 14% Price: $51 Mario Gagliasso 2008 Riserva (Barolo). This Palladino 2008 San Bernardo Riserva (Baro- Mirafiore 2010 Paiagallo (Barolo). Leath- 89 shows evolved aromas of stewed plum, res- 88 lo). This opens with aromas of dried herb, 90 er, truffle, black cherry, grilled herb and in, varnish and leather with a whiff of vanilla. The sage and a whiff of cellar floor. The palate is rather a whiff of mocha lead the nose on this structured palate offers dried black cherry steeped in spirits, closed but eventually reveals sour cherry, black but straightforward wine. The palate is still rather black pepper, notes of espresso, mocha and baking pepper, licorice and a balsamic note. Drying tannins closed but delivers crushed red cherry, white pep- spice alongside soft, muted tannins. Drink through give it a rather abrupt finish. Enotec Imports, Inc. per and grilled herb alongside fresh acidity and 2018. Kysela Père et Fils. —K.O. —K.O. young, raspy tannins that need time to soften. Drink abv: 15% Price: $125 abv: 14.5% Price: $88 2018–2028. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $135 Tenuta Rocca 2010 Barolo. This opens with 89 aromas of ripe berry, pipe tobacco, leather LANGHE NEBBIOLO Viberti 2007 Bricco delle Viole Riserva and espresso. The palate offers mature black cherry, 90 (Barolo). Aromas of this brawny wine coffee, vanilla and mocha alongside firm, drying Gaja 2010 Conteisa (Langhe). Made with suggest black plum, berry, violet, leather and dill. tannins. It finishes on a licorice note. Vision Wine 97 Nebbiolo from Gaja’s holdings in the Notes of licorice, tobacco and black pepper back up & Spirits. —K.O. Cerequio vineyard in La Morra, with a touch of Bar- the sour cherry fruit. Big with round tannins, this abv: 14% Price: $59 bera, this combines finesse, structure and depth. is just reaching its ideal drinking window. Drink It’s highly perfumed with rose, balsamic notes, through 2019. Opici Wines. —K.O. Virna Borgogno 2010 Barolo. This acces- berry and spice that follow through to red cherry, abv: 14.5% Price: $105 89 sible Barolo leads with a pretty fragrance of raspberry, white pepper, licorice and mint flavors. crushed blue flower, wild rose and bright berry. The It’s balanced with polished tannins and closes on a Borgognot 2010 Barolo. Straightforward palate delivers Morello cherry, black raspberry and mineral note. Drink 2018–2030. Terlato Wines In- 89 and easy-drinking, this starts off with aro- cinnamon notes alongside fresh acidity and supple ternational. Cellar Selection. —K.O. mas of red rose, violet and red berry. The bright tannins. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $240 palate offers up wild cherry layered with notes of abv: 14% Price: $30 cinnamon and white pepper balanced with zesty Gaja 2010 Sperss (Langhe). Aromas of acidity and chewy tannins. Ionia Atlantic Imports, Amalia 2010 Le Coste di Monforte (Barolo). 95 menthol, tobacco, juicy black fruit, grilled LLC. —K.O. 88 Aromas suggest coffee, vanilla, oak, savory herb and a whiff of truffle unfold in the glass. Made abv: 14% Price: $35 herb and menthol. The palate offers espresso, roast- with Nebbiolo from the firm’s Serralunga holdings ed hazelnut, dried sage and sour cherry alongside and a drop of Barbera, it has a pristine palate that Ca’Romè 2010 Cerretta (Barolo). Aromas green, astringent tannins. Drink 2018–2025. Votto delivers dark black cherry, licorice and black pep- 89 include rose petal, grilled herb, forest floor, Vines Importing. —K.O. per alongside firm but fine tannins. It’s still young coffee and ripe berry. The palate is still rather abv: 14.5% Price: $75 and austere so give it time to develop fully. Drink closed but offers black cherry, vanilla and espresso 2020–2045. Terlato Wines International. Cellar alongside astringent tannins that give it an abrupt, Gomba 2010 Boschetti (Barolo). Licorice, Selection. —K.O. drying finish. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. 88 cinnamon, black pepper and ripe berry aro- abv: NA Price: $260 abv: 14.5% Price: $103 mas take center stage on this structured wine. The palate offers black cherry, anisette and black pep- Gaja 2011 Sorì San Lorenzo (Langhe). Firmly Cascina Bongiovanni 2010 Pernanno (Baro- per alongside youthfully aggressive tannins. Drink 94 structured, this opens with aromas of men- 89 lo). This opens with aromas of oak, espres- 2018–2030. Marathon Selections. —K.O. thol, truffle and underbrush accompanied by a hint so, mocha and plum. The firm palate offers oak -ex abv: 14% Price: $39 of graphite. The palate delivers dark cherry, notes tract, chocolate, licorice and black cherry alongside of chocolate, coffee, black pepper, grilled herb and drying wood tannins. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Gomba 2010 Sorì Boschetti (Barolo). Aro- licorice alongside refined but clenched tannins that abv: 14.5% Price: $93 88 mas recall toasted oak, espresso, rubber need time to soften and unwind. It’s still young and and roasted herb. The palate offers raw red cherry, austere but it should blossom into a beauty. Drink Clerico 2010 Aeroplanservaj (Barolo). Aro- vanilla, grilled sage and black pepper alongside as- 2018–2041. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. 89 mas of fresh violet, blue lilac, mint, men- tringent tannins. Marathon Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $500 thol and orange zest take center stage. The ethereal abv: 14.5% Price: $49 fragrance doesn’t carry over to the palate however, Gaja 2011 Costa Russi (Langhe). Surprisingly which displays oak extract, dried cherry, espresso, Josetta Saffirio 2008 Millenovecento 48 93 bright for the vintage and displaying Gaja’s dried sage and roasted coffee bean alongside bitterly 88 Riserva (Barolo). Made from vines planted trademark elegance, this offers aromas of blue astringent wood tannins that dry out the mouth and in 1948, this brawny wine opens with aromas of flower, perfumed berry, cake spices and a whiff of generate an abrupt finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. toasted oak, espresso, black plum, violet and a whiff leather. The ripe palate delivers mature black cherry —K.O. of leather. The palate offers coffee, chocolate, sage, layered with white pepper and cinnamon alongside abv: 14.5% Price: $110 toast and a hint of black cherry alongside drying supple tannins. Drink 2016–2026. Terlato Wines wood tannins. Peter Warren Selections. —K.O. International. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $500

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Gaja 2011 Sorì Tildin (Langhe). Aromas of ripe berry. The lively palate offers juicy dark cher- up black cherry, black pepper and coffee alongside 92 crushed plum, asphalt, oak, toast, exotic ry, black raspberry, orange peel and a hint of bak- muted tannins. 8 Vini, Inc. —K.O. spice and forest floor lead the nose. The palate ing spice alongside fresh acidity and lithe tannins. abv: 14% Price: $30 delivers black cherry, mocha, licorice and mineral Winebow. —K.O. alongside bracing, tightly woven tannins that need abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Vietti 2011 Perbacco Nebbiolo (Langhe). time to unwind. Drink 2017–2031. Terlato Wines 86 Aromas of toasted oak, coffee and dried International. —K.O. Serradenari 2011 Nebbiolo (Langhe). This black fruit lead the nose. The palate offers sour abv: 14.5% Price: $500 89 luminous, young Nebbiolo leads with aro- cherry, espresso, dried sage and ground green pep- mas of rose petal, blue flower, eucalyptus, graphite per but there’s not enough fruit richness to stand up G D Vajra 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). Aromas and alpine herb. The fresh palate offers ripe Morello to the astringent wood tannins that leave a mouth- 90 of tilled earth, ripe black fruit, menthol cherry, white pepper, mineral and a balsamic note drying finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. and a touch of leather lead the nose on this savory, alongside lithe tannins. Balanced and fresh, it closes abv: 14.5% Price: $30 medium-bodied red. The juicy palate offers ripe on a licorice note. MS Walker. —K.O. black cherry, raspberry, black pepper and a bal- abv: 14% Price: $15 Parusso 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). This de- samic note alongside supple tannins. Martin Scott 85 livers aromas of oak, espresso and roasted Wines. —K.O. Mauro Veglio 2013 Angelo Nebbiolo (Lang- coffee bean that carry over to the palate along with abv: 14% Price: $25 88 he). An intense, inviting fragrance of rose notes of dill and parsley. It lacks fruit richness and and fresh red berry takes center stage on this bright, has astringent wood tannins that leave a mouth- Giuseppe Cortese 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). youthful expression of Nebbiolo. The palate offers drying finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. 90 Showing Nebbiolo’s youthful energy and juicy Morello cherry, espresso and white pepper abv: 14% Price: $22 refinement, this full-bodied but easy-drinking wine alongside youthfully feisty but polished tannins. features aromas of red rose, violet, red berry and a A touch of licorice signals the close. Multiple U.S. Prinsi 2011 Sandrina Nebbiolo (Langhe). whiff of baking spice. The palate doles out succulent importers. —K.O. 85 Aromas suggest leafy underbrush, espres- cherry-berry and cinnamon alongside silky, supple abv: 14% Price: $21 so and toasted oak. The evolved palate offers cof- tannins. Drink through 2016. Winebow. —K.O. fee, roasted hazelnut and dried red berry alongside abv: 14% Price: $24 Podere Ruggeri Corsini 2011 Nebbiolo (Lang- fleeting tannins. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. 88 he). Rose petal, blue flower, menthol and abv: 14% Price: $24 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy wild berry aromas lead the nose. The palate offers 90 2013 Martinenga Nebbiolo (Langhe). Bright up ripe black cherry, licorice and white pepper and fragrant, this luminous wine opens with aromas framed in firm but refined tannins. Enjoy through NEBBIOLO D’ALBA of rose, violet and crushed raspberry. The juicy pal- 2015 to capture the fresh fruit flavors. Casa Bruno. ate delivers mouthfuls of sour cherry and cinnamon —K.O. Demarie 2011 Nebbiolo d’Alba. Aromas of alongside fresh acidity and supple tannins that give abv: 14.5% Price: $19 88 crushed violet, red berry fruit and mocha a silky texture. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. waft out of the glass. The palate doles out crushed abv: 13% Price: $22 Socré 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). Crushed raspberry, juicy wild cherry and accents of baking 87 flower, wet earth and ripe berry aromas spice alongside supple tannins. Savory and easygo- Ca’ del Baio 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). Pretty waft out of the glass. The palate offers black cherry, ing, it also has enough structure to age a few more 89 aromas suggest violet, rose, strawberry and black pepper and espresso alongside soft tannins. years. Drink through 2017. Uva Imports. —K.O. mint. The vibrant palate offers red cherry, crushed It’s straightforward and made to be enjoyed young. abv: 14% Price: $25 raspberry and cinnamon alongside supple tannins Drink through 2015. David Vincent Selection. and bright acidity. Enjoy through 2017. CD Selec- —K.O. Pelassa 2012 Sot (Nebbiolo d’Alba). Aromas tions. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 88 highlight violet, iris, incense and espresso. abv: 14% Price: $17 The lively palate doles out sour cherry, mocha and Tenimenti Famiglia Cavallero 2012 La Fenice coffee alongside smooth, rounded tannins. Strecker Elio Grasso 2013 Gavarini Nebbiolo (Lang- 87 Nebbiolo (Langhe). Aromas of blackberry, Selections. —K.O. 89 he). Here’s a bright, young Nebbiolo that blue flower, coffee and toast take center stage on abv: 14% Price: $28 opens with aromas of violet and perfumed berry. this young, forward wine. The palate offers dried The palate offers crunchy black-cherry and red- black cherry, espresso and black pepper alongside Paolo Manzone 2012 Mirinè (Nebbiolo raspberry flavors that are framed by sleek tannins. evolved tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. 87 d’Alba). Ripe plum, tilled earth, violet, A hint of baking spice unfolds on the finish. Martin abv: 13.5% Price: $24 espresso and toast aromas waft out of the glass. The Scott Wines. —K.O. palate offers dried black cherry, mocha and roasted abv: 14% Price: $26 Demarie 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). This coffee bean alongside fleeting tannins. Quintessen- 86 young, easygoing wine opens with fresh tial Wines. —K.O. Elvio Cogno 2013 Montegrilli Nebbiolo aromas of violet, red berry and a touch of leather. abv: 14% Price: $38 89 (Langhe). Vibrant and savory, this fresh The simple palate delivers crunchy red cherry and Nebbiolo doles out blue flower, crushed red cherry crushed raspberry alongside fleeting tannins. Uva Tenuta Rocca 2011 Sorì Ornati (Nebbiolo and black raspberry flavors. Accents of white pep- Imports. —K.O. 87 d’Alba). Aromas of plum, violet and a bal- per add depth while supple tannins and bright acid- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 samic note lead the nose on this straightforward ity create balance. It finishes on a succulent note. wine. The palate offers ripe black raspberry and Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. Terre da Vino 2012 La Malora (Langhe). This hints of white pepper and licorice alongside youth- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 86 blend of Nebbiolo and 15% Barbera fea- ful tannins. Vision Wine & Spirits. —K.O. tures aromas of crushed blackberry, menthol, leath- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Monchiero Carbone 2012 Sire Nebbiolo er and toasted notes. The forward, soft palate offers 89 (Langhe). This bright, medium-bodied red opens with aromas of underbrush, rose, violet and

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 OTHER ITALY VINO DA TAVOLA RED WINES OTHER RED WINES

WHITE WINES Frank Cornelissen 2012 Magma Rosso 10 Cascina del Pozzo 2010 Montegalletto (Roe- 93 (Vino da Tavola). Made from 100-year-old 90 ro). This elegant expression of Nebbiolo Frank Cornelissen 2012 Munjebel Bianco Nerello Mascalese vines, this bold wine is loaded opens with aromas of dried rose, crushed violet, 92 9 (Vino da Tavola). This cloudy, amber- with flavor and complexity. It’s endowed with lay- tilled earth, savory herb and a balsamic note. The colored wine isn’t for the faint of heart. Made ers of smoky mineral sensations, underbrush, ma- palate offers juicy black raspberry, dark cherry, truf- from ancient Grecanico, Carricante and Catarratto ture black and red berry fruit, leather, blue flower fle, vanilla and a hint of mocha. It’s balanced, with vines on the slopes of Mt. Etna and aged in terra and Mediterranean spices alongside fresh acidity fresh acidity and supple tannins. World of Wine cotta amphorae, it’s mineral-driven with intense and bracing tannins. This is still young and needs Guide. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. flint, smoke, nectarine, citrus, ginger, white pep- time to develop fully and come together. Drink af- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 per and balsamic sensations supported by an acidic ter 2020. Zev Rovine Selections. Cellar Selection. backbone. Boasting great depth and complexity, it —K.O. Scambia 2011 Crognitello (Umbria). This evolves continuously in the glass. Zev Rovine Selec- abv: 15% Price: $225 86 blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaio- tions. —K.O. lo features pretty aromas of blue flower, tilled soil, abv: 14% Price: $40 Frank Cornelissen 2012 MunJebel Rosso 9 ripe berries and a hint of roasted balsamic herbs. 93 CS (Vino da Tavola). Made from ungrafted The simple, one-dimensional palate offers bright Morgante 2013 Bianco di Morgante (Vino da Nerello Mascalese vines planted in 1930, this com- sour cherry and nutmeg alongside nervous, racy 87 Tavola). Made from red grape Nero d’Avola pelling wine offers intense blackberry, black cherry, acidity. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. vinified without skin contact, this full-bodied wine tilled soil, blue flower and Mediterranean spice sen- abv: 13% Price: $18 has sensations of red apples, pink grapefruit, min- sations. It’s big and powerful, with gripping tannins eral and white pepper. Crisp acidity gives freshness and layers of depth. Give this time to develop com- Scambia 2012 Ripuglie (Umbria). This blend but the warmth of evident alcohol on the midpalate plexity. Drink 2017–2027. Zev Rovine Selections. 84 of 70% and 30% Canaiolo opens throws off the balance. Winebow. —K.O. —K.O. with muddled aromas that includes chalk, black abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 15% Price: $64 berries, antiseptic and barnyard. The simple palate delivers overripe blackberry and a hint of black pep- Scambia 2012 Freschetto (Orvieto). Pretty Frank Cornelissen 2012 MunJebel 9 MC per along with a meaty rusticity. It ends on a bitter, 87 aromas recall Golden Delicious apples and 90 (Vino da Tavola). Made from 68-year-old medicinal note. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. white peach. The bright palate delivers apricot, pear Nerello Mascalese vines and aged in terra-cotta am- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 and lemon zest accented with a ginger note, while phorae, this ripe and powerful wine offers aromas crisp acidity leaves the mouth feeling clean and re- of leather, tilled earth, game, truffle and black berry freshed. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. fruit. The juicy palate delivers mouthfuls of black DESSERT WINE abv: 13% Price: $15 cherry accented with clove and cinnamon alongside round, velvety tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Vignamato NV Vi de Visciola (Vino da Tavo- Goretti 2012 Pinot Grigio (Umbria). Zev Rovine Selections. —K.O. 84 la). Made from Montepulciano grapes and 86 Straightforward but well made, this has a abv: 15% Price: $64 Visciola cherries, this highly unusual dessert bever- pretty fragrance of white spring flowers. The juicy age has overly sweet aromas of rose, hand soap and palate offers tart Granny Smith apple and white Frank Cornelissen 2012 MunJebel 9 VA (Vino air freshener. The palate offers dense cherry and peach alongside crisp acidity. Pair this with fresh 89 da Tavola). This is an intense, extreme wine almond alongside fresh acidity that saves this from pasta salads. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. made from Nerello Mascalese vines planted in the being too gooey. Valley View. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 1940s. It’s handcrafted, with no selected yeasts or abv: NA Price: $20 added sulfites, and aged in terra cotta vessels. It’s loaded with smoky mineral, concentrated black ROSÉS cherry, black pepper, cinnamon and notes of bal- SLOVENIA samic herbs framed by solid, velvety tannins. The Frank Cornelissen 2013 Susucaru Rosato only criticism is a slight fizzy sensation, but total WHITE WINES 89 (Vino da Tavola). Made from both red and perfection isn’t what this wine is about. Zev Rovine white native grapes, this offers an intense fragrance Selections. —K.O. Sanctum 2011 Chardonnay (Štajerska). This of white and red roses. The floral notes carry over to abv: 15% Price: $64 90 brilliant straw colored Chardonnay has the palate along with crushed Morello cherry, rasp- aromas of lemon blossoms and green apples. On the berry jam and candied strawberry. Cracked white Frank Cornelissen 2012 Munjebel Rosso 9 palate, it’s smooth and clean with flavors of lemon pepper and mineral add interest. Zev Rovine Selec- 89 (Vino da Tavola). This wine is produced curd and baked apple. Vinum USA Inc. —J.J. tions. —K.O. solely with Nerello Mascalese grapes aged in terra abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $40 cotta vessels and made with no selected yeasts or added sulfites. It offers concentrated black cherry, Štoka 2011 Grganja Vitovska (Kras). This Podere Ruggeri Corsini 2013 Rosin Rosato raspberry and licorice flavors accented with cracked 90 orange-style wine is dark straw in color and 89 (Langhe). Aromas of red rose petals and black pepper and smoky mineral alongside big but has jasmine and vanilla tones on the nose, while fla- perfumed red berries jump out of the glass of this velvety tannins. The warmth of alcohol marks the vors of canned apricots and fresh peaches drive the spicy rosato made with Nebbiolo. The lively palate close. Zev Rovine Selections. —K.O. palate. There’s a soft and sensuous finish, due to the offers creamy wild cherry, crushed raspberry and abv: 15% Price: $40 18 month barrels aging. Blue Wine Co. —J.J. cinnamon alongside vibrant acidity. Casa Bruno. abv: 12.9% Price: $23 Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Batič 2009 Angel Grande Cuvée Rezerva 89 White (Vipavska Dolina). This amber col-

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ored, orange-style wine has aromas of canned the palate and lead to a lingering finish. Blue Dan- bodied, with flavors of honey and grilled pineapple, peaches and apricots on the nose, while fresh stone ube Wine Co. —J.J. and balanced by bright acidity. Vintus LLC. —J.J. fruits seem to dominate the full bodied palate. The abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $100/500 ml finish is creamy and lingers on. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. Kabaj 2009 Merlot (Goriska Brda). Intense Disznókö 2006 Aszú 5 Puttonyos Tokaji abv: 13.5% Price: $35 89 aromas of freshly picked mint and dried 94 (Tokaji). Light amber color, the bouquet is herb drive the bouquet. On the palate there are fla- carried by aromas of honeycomb and caramelized Batič 2009 Pinela (Vipavska Dolina). This vors of black currant, black plum and tobacco leaf. apricot. It’s well balanced on the palate, with flavors 88 orange-style wine has aromas of grilled The finish is long with a pleasant level of acidity. of honey and yellow stone fruit. Vintus LLC. —J.J. pineapple on the nose. It’s dark straw in color and Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. abv: 11.5% Price: $46/500 ml has savory flavors of caramelized apple and pineap- abv: 13.5% Price: $37 ple upside down cake. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. Disznókö 2012 Késöi Szüret Late Harvest Fur- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 93 mint (Tokaji). This late harvest wine is straw HUNGARY in color, with aromas of yellow peaches, white flow- Batič 2009 Sauvignon (Vipavska Dolina). ers and apricots. It’s well balanced, with a pleasing 88 Light amber in color, this five year old Sau- DRY WHITE WINES level of acidity to offset the ripe, fruit-driven palate. vignon Blanc has aromas of caramelized pear and Vintus LLC. —J.J. grilled pineapple. This style of wine pairs perfectly Dobogó 2011 Szent Tamás Betsek Vine- abv: 13% Price: $26/500 ml with strong, earthy cheeses. Blue Danube Wine Co. 93 yards Furmint (Tokaji). This dry Furmint is —J.J. brilliant gold in color, with notes of Bartlett pear, abv: 14% Price: $29 Granny Smith apple, and lime zest in the complex ROMANIA bouquet. These aromas transfer seamlessly onto the Klabjan 2006 Malvasia (Slovenska Istra). palate as vibrant fruit flavors, with round body and WHITE WINES 88 This Slovenian orange-style wine spends bracing minerality. Delightful with food or by itself 30 months ageing in Slovenian oak barrels. It’s am- as an apéritif. Winebow. —J.J. Cramele Halewood 2013 La Umbra Chardon- ber in color and has aromas of toasted hazelnuts and abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 nay (Terasele Dunarii). This wine is medium freshly ground almonds. The finish is crisp, with straw in color, with aromas of perfumed talcum a fair level of astringency. It would pair well with Royal Tokaji 2011 Furmint (Tokaji). This wine powder and green apple on the nose. It is smooth on strongly flavored cheeses. Vinum USA Inc. —J.J. 92 is straw in color, with delightful notes of the palate, with white stone fruit flavors and a soft abv: 14.5% Price: $36 lemon curds and apricot blossoms. On the palate, finish. Tri-Vin Imports.Best Buy. —J.J. freshly picked apricot and Anjou pear provide the abv: 12.5% Price: $9 core to a slightly spiced backdrop, finishing crisp RED WINES and clean. Pair this wine with your favorite spicy Cramele Halewood 2013 La Umbra Pinot Asian dish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. 88 Grigio (Colinele Dobrogei). Floral aromas of Batič 2007 Valentino Sweet Red Merlot- abv: 14% Price: $16 freesia and jasmine are dominant on the nose, while 90 Cabernet Franc (Vipavska Dolina). This the fruit-driven palate shows flavors of green apple, sweet wine is nut brown in color, with aromas of Disznókö 2013 Dry Furmint (Tokaji). Bartlett Bartlett pear and white stone fruit. Tri-Vin Imports. dried prunes, caramelized pears and raisins. The 91 pear and freshly squeezed lime juice carry Best Buy. —J.J. palate is driven by sweet, dried fruit tones, balanced the nose, while flavors of green apple, pear and lime abv: 12.5% Price: $9 by bright acidity. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. rind drive the crisp, elegant palate. The finish shows abv: 13.5% Price: $60/375 ml nuance, with a slightly astringent mouthfeel. Vintus Cramele Recas 2012 Dreamfish Chardonnay LLC. —J.J. 87 (Recas). Tropical from nose to palate, this Kabaj 2008 Cuvée Morel Red Blend (Goriska abv: 13.5% Price: $20/500 ml wine shows lemon and caramelized banana on the 90 Brda). This blend is garnet colored with a bouquet, with guava and mango driving the flavors. hint of eucalyptus in the bouquet, opening up to Count Károlyi 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Pan- The finish is smooth and rounded. Tri-Vin Imports. aromas of black fruit, forest floor and freshly picked 88 non). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. Best Buy. —J.J. mushroom. Minerality abounds on the palate, with abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $7 flavors of red berries and black plums. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. Cramele Recas 2012 Dreambird Moscato (Re- abv: 13% Price: $46 TOKAJI 87 cas). This wine is medium straw in color with aromas of freshly cut grass and lemongrass. It’s Štoka 2011 Izbrani Teran (Kras). A mix of Dobogó 2006 Aszú 6 Puttonyos Furmint slightly sweet on the palate, with pronounced fruit 90 bright red cherry, blueberry, thyme, and 96 (Tokaji). Brilliant gold in color, this wine flavors of lychee and kumquat. Tri-Vin Imports. rosemary bring nuance to the nose. It’s full bodied boasts ethereal aromas of fresh apricot, caramel- Best Buy. —J.J. on the palate, with flavors of black cherry and black ized pineapple, honeycomb and English Toffee—all abv: 13.5% Price: $7 plum. A touch of salty minerality brings flair to the of which transfer seamlessly onto the palate. It’s full finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. bodied and luxurious, with balanced sweetness and Cramele Recas 2013 Dreambird Pinot Grigio abv: 12.3% Price: $23 gentle acidity. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —J.J. 87 (Viile Timisului). Medium straw in color, this abv: 10% Price: $125 wine boasts aroms of lemon meringue pie and or- Batič 2010 Cabernet Franc (Vipavska Do- ange preserve, and a creamy palate with a balanced 89 lina). This wine is garnet in color, with aro- Disznókö 2002 Aszú 6 Puttonyos Tokaji finish. Tri-Vin Imports.Best Buy. —J.J. mas of cherry, vanilla, red plum and cassis. Flavors 95 (Tokaji). Sensuous aromas of honeycomb, abv: 12.5% Price: $7 of tart cherry, red raspberry and blackberry drive canned peache and apricot drives the nose. It’s full Cramele Recas 2013 Dreamfish Sauvignon 86 Blanc (Viile Timisului). Lemon blossoms and

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014 tangerines bring lift to the aromatics. On the pal- tart grapefruit, hinted with a touch of baking spice, ate there are flavors of tropical fruit and tart, green OTHER EUROPE and continues a white flower finish. Vinorai, LLC. apples. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —J.J. —M.D. abv: 12% Price: $7 SWITZERLAND abv: 14.5% Price: $35

Château d’Auvernier 2012 White (Neuchâ- Diren 2012 Karmen Selection White (Turkey). BULGARIA 90 tel). The bouquet of this wine shows con- 85 Tones of tart apple, hazelnut and almond densed fruit notes of green apple and lemon pith, paste carry the nose and the palate of this wine. WHITE WINES with a slight nuance of vanilla on the nose. Full bod- While a pleasant sipper, the fruit and oak flavors do ied and creamy on the palate, it exhibits balanced not coalesce completely, and a bit more nuance is Chateau Burgozone 2012 Chardonnay (Dan- acidity on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —J.J. desired. Vinorai, LLC. —M.D. 90 ube River Plains). This Chardonnay breaks abv: 11.5% Price: $21 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 away from the typical varietal profile, with aromas of freshly cut grass and lemongrass. Delightful trop- Robert Gilliard 2012 Les Murettes Chasselas ical fruit flavors of mango, lychee and guava domi- 90 (Valais). Vanilla and lemon curd aromas RED WINES nate the palate. The zesty, clean and crisp finish bring nuance and depth to the the complex bouquet is characterized by flavors of lemon pith and lime of this wine. Full bodied with a silky texture, tones Diren 2012 Collection Öküzgözü (Turkey). juice. The House Of Burgundy. Best Buy. —J.J. of green apple and mango show bright on the palate, 89 For full review see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $14 leading to a splash of minerality on the finish. Drey- abv: 13.3% Price: $14 fus, Ashby & Co. —J.J. Vini 2013 Veni Vidi Vici Chardonnay (Thra- abv: 11.7% Price: $28 Yazgan 2013 Boğazkere (Turkey). The bou- 88 cian Valley). Aromas of lemon zest and 88 quet of this wine offers aromas of blueberry freshly cut grass abound on the nose. Flavors of pie and hints of toast. A mix of fruity and floral lemon curd and lemon pith bring nuance to the pal- CROATIA tones show brightly on the palate, with blueberry, ate. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy. —J.J. cranberry, lavender and baking spice flavors. Soft abv: 13% Price: $9 Bibich NV Ambra Red (North Dalmatia). This tannins accent a long-lasting finish. Vinorai, LLC. 91 sweet red wine shows aromas of toasted ha- —M.D. Vini 2013 Veni Vidi Vici Sauvignon Blanc zelnut and ripe plum on the nose. The nutty char- abv: 13% Price: $21 87 (Thracian Valley). Pale straw in color, this acter continues to the palate, with additional tones wine has aromas of lemon peel, dried herb and lem- of chamomile tea and aromatic herb. Blue Danube Yazgan 2013 Casaba Cabernet Sauvignon- on blossom. It’s zesty on the palate, with flavors of Wine Co. —J.J. 89 Merlot (Turkey). Flavors of tart cherry, lemon peel and green apple. Bulgarian Master Vint- abv: 15.3% Price: $50/500 ml thyme, smoked meat and menthol are held together ners. Best Buy. —J.J. by slightly grippy tannins, with a silky and bright abv: 13% Price: $9 finish. Vinorai, LLC. —M.D. MACEDONIA abv: 14% Price: $16 Vini 2013 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir-Syrah Rosé 87 (Thracian Valley). This rosé, made from Pi- Stobi 2011 Vranec (Tikves). Made from the Yazgan 2013 Mahra Boğazkere-Öküzgözü not Noir and Syrah, is brilliant pink in color, with 89 regional grape, Vranec, this wine is garnet 89 (Turkey). Fragrances of black cherry, bell aromas of strawberry and cream. The silky palate in color with ruby streaks. Primary notes of mush- pepper and spice set the stage for flavors of black shows pronounced red cherry and vanilla flavors. room and forest floor are lifted over shades of black cherry, strawberry, smoke and black tea. There is a Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy. —J.J. cherry and plum. The palate shows pleasantly sour pleasing aura of brightness overlaid on soft tannins, abv: 13% Price: $9 cherry and blackberry flavors, leading to a long last- with a surprising note of apricot on the finish. Vino- ing finish. Winebow.Best Buy. —J.J. rai, LLC. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $23 RED WINES Kavur 2010 Galî Merlot-Cabernet Franc (Ae- Vini 2013 Veni Vidi Vici Cabernet Sauvignon BOSNIA 89 gean). Dark garnet in color, this wine has 87 (Thracian Valley). This wine is ruby red in aromas of black cherry and lingonberry. Flavors color, with aromas of black fruits and berries. The Winery Čitluk 2011 Blatina (). A mix of blackberry, cherry and green pepper are mildly palate shows additional notes of tart black plums, 88 of red and black fruits pervade on the nose, outweighed by strong tannins, with just the tini- fringed by soft tannins on the finish. Bulgarian Mas- with hints of roasted coffee beans bringing nuance. est splash of brightness on the finish. Vinorai, LLC. ter Vintners. Best Buy. —J.J. Flavors of black plum and freshly ground espresso —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $9 dominate the palate. Terraneo Merchants. Best Buy. abv: 13.6% Price: $40 —J.J. Vini 2013 Veni Vidi Vici Merlot (Thracian Val- abv: 13% Price: $12 Yazgan 2013 Mahra Kalecik Karası-Syrah 87 ley). Ruby red with garnet hues in color, 87 (Turkey). Cherry and flint, with accents this easy-drinking Merlot brings aromas of cherry, of clove, set the stage for the bouquet. Flavors of black berry and black raspberry on the nose. Tones TURKEY black cherry, blueberry and anise are enlivened by a of black plum and black cherry are ripe and persis- hint of salinity. This is an easy-drinking wine, with tent on the finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners.Best WHITE WINES a burst of spice on the finish. Vinorai, LLC. —M.D. Buy. —J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $9 Selendi 2013 Gülpembe Grenache-Mourvè- 86 dre-Cinsault-Shiraz Rosé (Aegean). This Diren 2011 Karmen Red (Turkey). This wine rosé shows floral and fruity tones, with shades of 86 offers fragrances of cherry and anise, with peach and rose petal on the nose. The palate offers flavors of cherry, smoke, menthol and cured meat.

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The palate is thin, with menthol flavors outweigh- Sula 2012 Estate Bottled Shiraz (Nashik). For ing the fruit tones. The finish is bright, yet punctu- 91 full review see page 14. Best Buy. ated by shades of menthol and iodine. Vinorai, LLC. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 MOROCCO LEBANON RED WINES

WHITE WINE Bernard Magrez 2011 Domaine Excelcio 93 (Guerrouane). For full review see page 4. Ixsir 2012 Altitudes Blanc (Lebanon). Melon abv: 14% Price: $35 85 and peach aromas lead the way to under- ripe tones of apple, melon and peach on the palate. Ouled Thaleb 2010 Syrah (Zenata). From Slightly static in nature, this wine does not evolve 90 the first whiff of cherry, cranberry and much on the palate until a burst of bitter almond caramel you know you are in for a treat. Flavors of on the finish. Fine Terroir Selections, Misa Imports. clove, marzipan and grilled peach add nuance to the —M.D. red fruit driven palate. The smooth tannins persist abv: 13.5% Price: $20 without overpowering the bright fruit and spice tones. Nomadic Distribution. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $17 RED WINES Ouled Thaleb 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon- Ixsir 2009 Altitudes Rouge (Lebanon). For 89 Grenache (Zenata). Aromas of black cherry, 91 full review see page 8. toffee and black pepper set the scene for flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $20 cherry, espresso bean, violet and flint. Velvety tan- nins structure a silky palate, and a vein of bright- Ixsir 2009 Grande Réserve (Lebanon). For full ness shines through the long finish. Nomadic Dis- 91 review see page 8. tribution. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $14

Ouled Thaleb 2011 Médallion Red (Zenata). INDIA 87 Fragrances of cherry, caramel and violet show brightly on the nose. Tart cherry, cranberry WHITE WINES and coffee flavors are overpowered by strong tan- nins. Nomadic Distribution. —M.D. Sula 2013 Chenin Blanc (Nashik). Pineapple, abv: 13% Price: $18 90 grapefruit, and apricot show brightly on the nose and palate. Simultaneously refreshing and so- phisticated on the palate, this wine has a crisp, lin- gering finish laced with flavors of almond blossom. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Sula 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Nashik). Aro- 90 mas of pink grapefruit, grass and corian- der seed open the palate of this wine. Passion fruit, apricot, green apple and freshly chopped parsley mark the palate, with a touch of iodine on the fin- ish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $12

RED WINES

Sula 2011 Dindori Reserve Shiraz (Nashik). 93 The nose carries notes of cassis, blackber- ry and bell pepper. An approachable, yet complex wine, the palate shows flavors of black cherry, ba- con, black pepper, vanilla and espresso bean. Rich tannins linger without burdening the taste buds. Pleasant notes of smoke and salt linger on the fin- ish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014

slowly on the finish. Some will miss the sweetness typically found in ginger ; there’s none here. abv: 41.5% Price: $102/375 ml

Coppersea Distilling Pear (USA; SPIRITS 90 Coppersea Distilling, West Park, NY). This is Eau de vie: Capturing fruit (and more) in a bottle reminiscent of rustic tarts. The pear fragrance fea- tures a robust malty note, and the flavor is warm, showing baked pear and cinnamon heat that seems was astonished to learn about the existence Why aren’t more people drinking eaux de vie? to gather strength. The finish is exceedingly long of carrot eau de vie. Frankly, unlike more mellow barrel-aged and slightly perfumy. Technically, such a thing shouldn’t exist: tinged with vanilla, many eaux de vie still retain abv: 45% Price: $60/375 ml eau de vie (French for “water of life”) is usu- a knife-edge of alcohol heat. Still, quite a few Ially defined as clear, unaged . can be sipped straight, and provide a refreshing Montelle Distillery Cherry Eau de Vie (USA; Montelle Winery, August, MO). The rich, Carrots, of course, aren’t fruit. Ginger isn’t counterpoint to cheeses and rich desserts. 89 slightly sweet aroma is delectable and redolent of a fruit either. But both roots have plenty of nat- Meanwhile, bartenders are starting to ex- cherry pie filling. Made with tart cherries, this clear ural sweetness, and so Austri- periment more with eaux de spirit has a faint, slightly bitter almond flavor and an spirits producer Reisetbauer vie to add bright fruit notes to a pleasant cherry-flesh finish, plus a rousing bite of managed to ferment and distill Traditional fruit- . Houston bartend- alcohol heat. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $17/375 ml each into intriguing eaux de vie, based eaux de vie er Chris Frankel, for example, with a clean delicacy that tran- are worth seeking subs it for aged brandy in clas- Subarashii Kudamono Asian Pear Eau de Vie scends the shock value of the out, particularly for sic cocktails, creating a cherry- 89 (USA; Subarashii Kudamono, Kempton, PA). base ingredient. inflected kirschwasser sazerac While most pear brandies are made using Williams Traditional fruit-based eaux those nostalgic for or a plummy old-fash- or Bartlett pears, this variation is made with Asian pears picked from Pennsylvanian orchards. The end de vie are worth seeking out, ioned. He even created a gin- fresh summer and result is fresh and clean, moderately drying, with a particularly for those nostalgic autumn harvests. and-tonic riff, lightening apri- sweet fragrance that evokes pears as well as apples for fresh summer and autumn cot eau de vie with housemade and grapes. harvests. Distillers manage to tonic. abv: 40% Price: $46/375ml pack an astounding amount of fruit—15 to 20 Carrot eau de vie doesn’t seem to have the Uve DiLanga (Italy; Vias Imports, pounds—into a slender 375-ml bottle. Just same traction on U.S. drink menus—at least, 89 New York, NY). Made with Moscato grapes, think about how many pies or preserves could not yet. But we’re confident that it’s only a mat- this spirit offers a sweet and perfumy aroma. On be made with all those pears, plums or berries. ter of time until it becomes an essential compo- the palate, expect delicate, lingering notes of vio- And many of these, particularly the pear distil- nent in the ultimate greenmarket . let, rosewater and raspberry, finishing with white- lates, retain that elusive fresh-picked fruit fra- Cheers! pepper heat. abv: 40% Price: $65/1 L grance in a way that jams and jellies do not. —Kara Newman Coppersea Distilling Plum Eau de Vie (USA; 88 Coppersea Distilling, West Park, NY). Al- though this is one of the nicer variations on slivo- vitz, the category isn’t for everyone. Coppersea’s Reisetbauer Carrot (; Michael Skurnik like a freshly sliced pear is being held right under version has a malty, fruity aroma and flavors that 95 Wines, Syosset, NY). Fresh, clean and lightly your nose, its so amazingly bold and true. On the mix floral notes with a modest amount of fruit. Big- vegetal—but not outright carroty—this palate- palate, look for fleeting sweetness, bold pear flavor ger, juicier fruit emerges on the finish alongside a cleanser of an eau de vie will remind some of a and a drying finish laced with cinnamon heat. dose of alcohol heat. delicate aquavit. It would be dynamite in a refined abv: 41.5% Price: $56/375 ml abv: 45% Price: $60/375 ml take on a bloody mary with tomato water instead of tomato juice. St. George Pear Brandy (USA; St. George Spir- Clear Creek Distillery Blue Plum Brandy abv: 41.5% Price: $55/375 ml 93 its, Alameda, CA). One of the bolder pear 88 Slivovitz (USA; Clear Creek Distillery, Port- brandies, it offers a bright, slightly sweet fresh pear land, OR). Allow this brandy, made from Italian blue Clear Creek Distillery Williams Pear Brandy and honey aroma. Flavor-wise it offers a big pop of plums, to open up in the glass for more flavor. The 94 (USA; Clear Creek Distillery, Portland, OR). rounded pear warmed with baking spice entices up soft, warm scent captures a fresh-fruit essence. On Soft and subtle, this clear eau de vie has a gentle front. Made from dry-farmed organic Bartlett pears, the palate, flavors run to pleasantly floral—even but authentic fresh pear aroma. On the palate, it’s about 30 pounds of fruit per bottle. Best Buy. perfumy—rather than outright fruity, but retain slightly perfumy, then pear flavor bursts through on abv: 40% Price: $40 pleasing freshness. the finish, accompanied by spicy ginger and white- abv: 40% Price: $28/375 ml pepper notes. Overall, this offers a remarkably pure Reisetbauer Ginger (Austria; Michael Skurnik expression of fruit. 92 Wines, Syosset, NY). The bright ginger aro- Clear Creek Distillery Kirschwasser (USA; abv: 40% Price: $28/375 ml ma is underpinned by an earthy note. On the palate, 88 Clear Creek Distillery, Portland, OR). Let this this eau de vie is light and fresh, with mouthwa- cherry eau de vie sit in the glass to coax out more Reisetbauer Williams Pear (Austria; Michael tering salinity. Delicate gingery heat comes forward warm cherry aroma. Made with Oregon and Wash- 94 Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY). The aroma is

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ington cherries, it’s somewhat perfumy, with a mild version has a sweet, long honey aroma and flavor Kuuch Henequen Lukum Mix (Mexico; flavor and silky feel. but it’s smooth and light, not cloying or sticky. Al- 85 Kagan Imports, Denver, CO). In this 100% abv: 40% Price: $28/375 ml though anise is called out on the label, it’s difficult henequen liqueur, the expression is clear, with a to detect. slightly sweet, almost neutral aroma. On the palate, Montelle Distillery Peach Eau de Vie (USA; abv: 20% Price: $25 a fleeting, honey-like sweetness yields to peppery 87 Montelle Winery, August, MO). Presenting a spice; the flavor otherwise is mild, almost neutral. soft golden hue in the glass, this eau de vie wafts Iris Liqueur (USA; Elixir, Inc., Eugene, OR). Fun fact: Similar to sisal, henequen also yields fi- a rich, bold aroma that suggests peach nectar. The 91 A delicate, unusual mix of floral and spice bers used to make rope or twine. palate is lighter, mixing ripe peach flesh, white flow- marks this golden liqueur, supposedly based on “a abv: 35% Price: $26 ers and honey. Add a small dose to sparkling wine forgotten Italian recipe.” The base is iris root, which for a riff on the classic Bellini. on the palate yields an herbaceous scent and floral abv: 40% Price: $17/375 ml notes touched with saffron and cardamom. Seems like an ideal ingredient to play with for cocktails. Schladerer Williams Birne (Germany; Niche abv: 35% Price: $47 87 Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). This clear eau de vie mixes pear and malty notes in the aroma. Kuuch Evangelina Tangerine Liqueur (Mex- On the palate, the pear flavor fades quickly, leaving 89 ico; Kagan Imports, Denver, CO). The ruddy behind a slight bitterness on the finish and alcohol orange hue and citrusy aroma will remind some heat around the edges of the tongue, plus a slight tipplers of Italy’s Aperol. This tangerine and cane saline note. liqueur is quite sweet, with a candied-citrus flavor abv: 40% Price: $50 braced by pleasant, fleeting bitterness on the end. Top up with sparkling wine for a spritz-style sipper. Schladerer Himbeergeist (Germany; Niche abv: 20% Price: $19 86 Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). Distilled from wild raspberries from the Carpathian mountains, Cour di Cioccolata (Italy; Cora Imports, Coun- this eau de vie has a light, faint berry scent and 88 tyside, IL). Described as “chocolate grappa,” flavor, marked by a slight bitterness similar to that this thick, opaque-brown liquid has an oily sheen found in some flavored . The finish exhales and a chocolaty, boozy aroma. It’s thick at first sip, more waxy berry, plus a flicker of alcohol heat. featuring not-too-sweet cocoa notes, although the abv: 42% Price: $45 grappa influence shows up on the palate-cleansing finish. Packaged with two sleeves of ice cream cone- St. George Raspberry Brandy (USA; St. like wafers tucked inside the box. 86 George Spirits, Alameda, CA). Made with a abv: 17% Price: $25/375 ml whopping 40 pounds of Pacific Northwest berries per bottle, this clear eau de vie has a malty, funky Kuuch Henequen Lukum Coconut (Mexico; aroma, with a slight raspberry tinge. On the palate, 88 Kagan Imports, Denver, CO). This liqueur flavors are on the floral, waxy side, with faint berry has a faint golden tint and bold coconut aroma. On notes woven throughout. the palate, it’s quite sweet, showing coconut backed abv: 40% Price: $40 by a surprising eucalyptus note. abv: 20% Price: $24 Montelle Distillery Grappa (USA; Montelle 85 Winery, August, MO). Despite the warm, 1889 by Geijer Glogg (USA; St. George, Alam- juicy, grapy aroma and fruity palate, a strong alcohol 87 eda, CA). A variation on the Scandinavian presence dominates throughout. Even the fade-out holiday punch made with grain neutral spirit in- mingles alcohol sting on the tip of the tongue with stead of wine, this cheery yellow liqueur is light on pleasant, lingering grape flavors. the palate, and packed with honey, clove, cardamom abv: 40% Price: $17 for 375 ml and cinnamon. Traditionalists will miss the warmth and weight that wine provides, but bartenders don’t Schladerer Kirschwasser (Germany; Niche seem to care; they are using the liqueur to spice up 84 Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). A total of 33 wintry whiskey and rum cocktails. pounds of cherries are used to produce one bottle abv: 20% Price: $32 of this clear Black Forest cherry brandy. The light, sweet aroma shows a faint cherry scent, but there’s Kuuch Henequen Liquor Extra Dry Lukum not much cherry on the palate. Instead, rather 86 (Mexico; Kagan Imports, Denver, CO). A new soapy, floral flavors come forward, though a flicker entry for agave-lovers, this is made with 100% hen- of fruit emerges on the finish. equen, a type of wild agave that grows extensively in abv: 42% Price: $48 the Yucátan Peninsula. This “reposado” version is aged in white-oak barrels for a few months, creating a light gold color and honey-like note. The slightly LIQUEURS smoky-agave-pear-vanilla scent is reminiscent of mezcal. On the tongue, it’s quite spicy and full of Kuuch Honey & Anise X’tabentun (Mexi- jalapeño pepper, with just a touch of honey sweet- 93 co; Kagan Imports, Denver, CO). Honeyed ness. X’tabentun liqueur has been finding its exotic way abv: 35% Price: $28 into some bartender cocktails recently. This golden

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014

flavorful selection, it’s bursting with rich malty fla- vors of caramel, toasted brown bread and turbinado sugar alongside supporting notes of dried cherry, raisin, cocoa and sweet oak. The mouthfeel is lush and filling, with a creamy body and pleasing warmth BEER that carries through to the sweet-spice laden finish. Barrel-aged beauties Cellar Selection. abv: 11.2% Price: $20/22 oz any Wine Enthusiast readers under- past couple of years. An increasing number of Founders Backwoods Bastard (Scotch Ale/ stand the importance that oak plays breweries are coming up with “barrel reserve” 94 Wee Heavy; Founders , MI). This is in the world of wine. From different lines or special releases, turning out limited- the barrel-aged version of Founders’ year-round equipment choices (barrels versus production offerings that have undergone any- wee heavy, Dirty Bastard. The Bourbony oak in- stavesM or chips) to decisions about oak sourc- where from 3–24 months of oak aging. fluences are apparent throughout, with assertive aromas and flavors of peppery wood, vanilla, cocoa ing as well as toast-level options, there are myr- This month, we have a wide assortment of powder and campfire smoke. The malty core of cara- iad ways that oak can affect the end result. But wood-aged beer styles reviewed for your con- mel malt, toffee, toasted hazelnut, Whoppers and how many people have begun to sideration. Depending on your molasses-drizzled fruitcake fills the palate, ground- relay that information over to personal preference, not all of ing the sweet smoke and spicy oak accents. Bold the world of beer? Aging in oak is these beers will appeal to you. and mouthfilling, the body is rich and filling but balanced by medium carbonation and a warm, peaty French or American wood, However, their overall com- nothing new in finish. A good candidate for medium-term cellaring; Bourbon- or rum-soaked casks, the brewing world, plexity, depth of character and enjoy in six-month intervals to track its evolution. used Zinfandel or Pinot Noir but it’s a trend remarkable balance make these abv: 10.2% Price: $15/12 oz 4 pack barrels—these are just a few of excellent examples of wood- the options to consider when that has surged aged brews. New Glarus Oud Bruin (Flanders-style Sour Brown; New Glarus Brewing Company, WI). sourcing barrels for aging beer, Given their typically small 93 over the past This is the first release out of the brewery’s new with each imparting an individ- couple of years. production numbers, you have Wild Fruit Cave, and it shows great promise for the ual identity and range of nuanc- to be extremely diligent about lineup. The muddled reddish-brown brew offers es to a brewer’s final product. picking them up upon release. loads of funky barnyard and balsamic vinegar on the Aromas and flavors of vanilla and coconut are And because of the expense of production, these nose and mouth. The green apple and sour cherry notes are supported by a malty core of dry, toasted commonly associated with oak aging, but oth- selections do command a premium on retail grain and light toffee. It’s fruity and earthy, with a er notes like cocoa, whiskey, toast, baking spice shelves. But when you taste your Goldilocks— light, tart body and a dry, mouthwatering finish. Like and, of course, a flavor of wood itself can all be the one that’s just right for you—you’ll under- traditional Belgian oud bruins, lay this one down for connected to the aging regimen a beer receives. stand why you spent the extra time and money a year to five, tasting the evolution annually. Aging in oak is nothing new in the brewing to be one of the lucky few to taste the good stuff. abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack world, but it’s a trend that has surged over the Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo Full Sail Bourbon Barrel Aged Imperial Stout 92 Brewmaster Reserve 2014 (Russian Impe- rial Stout; Full Sail Brewing Company, OR). Brewed in December 2012 and aged for a year in Bourbon casks from Maker’s Mark, Four Roses and Heaven Founders KBS (American Double/Impe- in oak, with the final product being a blend of one-, Hill, this is a thick, bold and strongly flavored se- 98 rial Stout; Founders Brewing, MI). Founders’ two- and three-year-old beer. It opens with asser- lection. It pours an opaque black color, with a soft KBS, or Kentucky Breakfast Stout, has been at the tive sour-peach aromas, supported by secondary head that falls quickly. Upfront scents of warm top of beer aficionados lists for years as the ultimate notes of barnyard, leather, toasted malt and oak. dried fruits, vanilla bean, sweet oak and tobacco in barrel-aged stout pleasure. It’s intense, bold and The medium-weight mouthfeel is round but juicy lead the nose, while the creamy mouthfeel favors flavorful, with all the stuffing to cellar well for years. and vibrant in tart acidity and medium carbon- plum sauce, boysenberry, roasted coffee and cocoa The nose overflows with aromas of bittersweet ation. The palate booms with a pure peach flavor, nib flavors. chocolate, espresso, Bourbon-soaked vanilla bean laced with hints of Bourbon spice, Bretty funk and abv: 9.84% Price: $12/22 oz and roasted malt. Those notes continue through to hay. It finishes dry, tart and mouthwatering, leaving the dense, creamy palate, with additional flavors of you ready for more. Cellar ready, try in fall 2015. Lost Abbey Agave Maria Ale Vintage 2014 brown bread, molasses, cigar, dried plum and date. Cellar Selection. 92 (American Strong Ale; The Lost Abbey, CA). Woody spice and sweet vanilla tones linger long on abv: 7.25% Price: $8/500 ml Brewed with agave syrup and aged in bar- the finish.Cellar Selection. rels, this is an usual beer of layered complexity. It abv: 11.2% Price: $20/12 oz 4 pack Deschutes Mirror Mirror 2014 Reserve (Eng- pours a hazy dark brown, with aromas of brown sug- 96 lish Barleywine; Deschutes Brewery, OR). ar, agave, pepper and smoky oak. The palate offers New Glarus R&D Wild Peach Batch: Cave After five years, Mirror Mirror—a barleywine with more rich malt flavors of caramel, molasses and tof- 97 2 (American Wild Ale; New Glarus Brewing 50% aged in oak barrels that previously held Or- fee, with an overarching sweet smoke character that Company, WI). Brew (and fruit) master Dan Carey egon Pinot Noir, Tempranillo and Malbec—is back. tarries through to the finish. The carbonation is low does it again with this latest R&D release: A sour Labeled “best after 2/24/15,” this is definitely one and the mouthfeel is slightly viscous, which is fairly brown ale brewed with Michigan peaches that’s for the cellar, and should hold and mature extreme- common for many of Lost Abbey’s potent brews. spontaneously fermented with wild yeasts and aged ly well through 2017, at least. A strong, potent and abv: 13.5% Price: $20/330 ml

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Innis & Gunn Bourbon Stout Limited Edition 90 (English Stout; Innis & Gunn, Scotland). This is a flavorful yet approachable barrel-aged brew that offers attractive Bourbon tones of vanilla and toasted oak without being too overwhelming. It pours a dark mahogany color, with soft aromas of smoke and peppery biscuit that dance in the bou- quet. The medium-weight mouthfeel has a slightly creamy texture, but brisk carbonation keeps it lifted and fresh. Traditional stout flavors of roasted cocoa nib, toasted nut, warm plum and dried cherry un- fold on the palate, while notes of black pepper and vanilla bean hang around on the finish. abv: 7.4% Price: $9/660 ml

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2014