INDEX

Academy of Music, 47, 48 appearance of, 29, 68, 215 afternoon tea, 342, 343 background and personal traits of, 4–5, Age of Innocence, The (Wharton), 95, 26–29, 31 140, 275 Bohemian party of, 400 Allard, Jules, 132, 158, 173, 260–261, 304, children of, 30, 99–104 306, 307–308, 323, 327, 329, 331 daughters’ marriages and, 75–78, Alva (yacht), 234–235, 236, 312 121–122, 170, 280 Ambassadress (yacht), 27, 30, 234 denunciation of vulgar displays by, Anthony, Susan B., 442 402, 425 archery, 74, 273, 334 diamond jewelry of, 61, 103, 227–229, aristocracy, 7, 36, 112–113, 118–119, 122– 369, 374, 425 123, 222, 224, 225, 378, 380–382, 443 dinner parties and, 350, 351, 354 marriages to, 382–390 European travel of, 377, 380 arrivistes. See nouveau riches four hundred and, 38, 47, 183 art collections, 10, 12, 26, 35, 37, 132, 133, houses of, 103, 135, 138, 157, 165–177, 257–258, 379 189, 368, 426, 427, 441, 450 Belmont, 95, 139 husband’s death and, 76, 77, 78, 170 Huntington, 181 last years and death of, 425–427, 453 as masculine pursuit, 88–91 Lehr and, 107, 109, 111 philanthropic donations of, 454 marriage of, 29, 30, 31, 234, 269 prevailing taste in, 88–89 McAllister and, 33–38, 52, 61, 104, 105, Stewart, 137–138 166, 300 Vanderbilt, 149–150, 288, 295 morning routine of, 68, 69–70 Whitney, 188, 189 as national legend, 177 Astor, Alice, 101, 427, 441, 442 Newport and, 157, 169, 171, Astor, Ava WillingCOPYRIGHTED (Mrs. John Jacob IV), 300–303,MATERIAL 452 101–102, 172, 367, 369, 442 only interview given by, 402 Astor, Brooke (Mrs. Vincent), 442, 451 opera balls of, 65, 103, 367–370, Astor, Caroline (Carrie). See Wilson, 424–425 Caroline Astor opera ritual of, 48, 345, 348 Astor, Caroline Schermerhorn (Mrs. Astor/ portrait of, 173–175, 369, 374 Mrs. William Backhouse II), 4–9, 23, principled ideals of, 7, 9, 12, 102, 150 26–38, 246, 341, 388, 424–427 restaurant dining and, 344

491

bbindex.inddindex.indd 491491 88/29/08/29/08 11:11:59:11:59 PPMM 492 INDEX

Astor, Caroline (continued) career and personality of, 26–27 shift in society and, 402 children of, 30, 75, 76, 122 as social arbiter, 4–9, 23, 32–35, 47, 52, collections of, 168 57–59, 66, 71, 115–116, 117, 121, death of, 76–78, 170, 176, 269 166, 168, 177, 280, 343, 453 marriage of, 26, 29–30, 35 social infl uence decline of, 9, 11, 78, Rhinebeck estate of, 27, 268–269, 300, 98, 105, 107, 370, 399, 402, 424, 452, 450–451 453–454 scandalous liaisons of, 30, 77 as the Mrs. Astor, 169–170, 177 son Jack as heir of, 269 Vanderbilts and, 60, 61, 65, 126 yachting passion of, 27, 30–31, 88, Astor, Charlotte Augusta, 30, 75–78, 170 99, 234 Astor, Charlotte Gibbes (Mrs. John Astor III), Astor, William Waldorf, 26, 126, 26, 32 168–171 Astor, Emily (later Mrs. James J. Van Alen), Astor Cup, 327, 331 75, 78 Astor family, 118 Astor, Emily (later Mrs. Samuel Ward), at apex of society, 367–368 30, 32, 34 history of, 23–28 Astor, Helen (later Mrs. James Roosevelt), socially advantageous marriages of, 26, 30, 32, 75, 426 29, 66 Astor, John Jacob, 4, 23–26, 33, 263 social respectability and, 28 portrait of, 302–303 the Mrs. Astor and, 169–170 Astor, John Jacob II, 24 Trinity Church and, 339 Astor, John Jacob III, 26, 27, 32, 37, 92, Astoria Hotel, 171 93, 166, 168, 170 Auchincloss, Louis, 155 Astor, John Jacob IV (Jack), 30, 124, 171, automobiles. See motorcars 172, 367, 375, 388, 414, 427–497 Avery, Samuel P., 89–90 personality and interests of, 99–102 remarriage of, 427–439 Bagehot, Walter, 453 Rhinebeck estate of, 27, 269–270, 451 Bailey’s Beach, 114, 332, 336 Titanic sinking and, 434–439 Bal Blanc, 327–332 unhappy marriage/divorce of, balls, 7, 8, 17, 36–38, 52, 58, 104, 120, 144, 101–102, 427 198, 203, 333, 361–376 Astor, John Jacob V, 441 Astor (Caroline), 65, 103, 176–177, Astor, Madeleine Force (Mrs. John Jacob IV), 367–370 427–439 carriage transport to, 243 subsequent marriages of, 441 components of, 103, 189, 361, 364–367, Titanic survival by, 435–439 369–370, 375 Astor, Margaret Armstrong (Mrs. William debutantes and, 362, 363 Backhouse), 26, 29, 30, 32, 166 as displays of excess, 10–11 Astor, Mary (Mrs. William Waldorf), invitations to, 70 169–170 jewelry worn at, 221, 229 Astor, Mrs. See Astor, Caroline ladies’ unspoken communication at, 365 Schermerhorn novelty, 400–401 Astor, Vincent, 101, 427, 428, 438–439, 451 of Oelrichs, 327–332 inheritance of, 441 preparation for, 363 marriages of, 442 Vanderbilt (Alva), 59–66, 304, 370, 386 Astor, William Backhouse, 24–28 Vanderbilt (Corneil and Alice), 325–326 Astor, William Backhouse II, 26–28, 33, Whitney, 189 34, 37, 165–166, 427 See also costume balls

bbindex.inddindex.indd 492492 88/29/08/29/08 1:11:591:11:59 PMPM INDEX 493

Balsan, Jacques, 444, 445 Bonheur, Rosa, 89, 90, 95, 138, 149, 454 Bancroft, George, 326–327 Borrowe, Hallet, 76, 77 Bar Harbor, 116, 427 Boucher, François, 89, 161, 162, 329, 454 Baril, Maria de, 350–351 Bouguereau, Adolphe-William, 89, 90, 95, Baring, Cecil, 122–123, 124 137, 139, 149, 150, 257 Beard, Geoffrey, 382 Bourget, Paul, 6, 9, 130, 326 Beebe, Lucius, 96, 390–391, 412 Bradley-Martin, Cornelia (daughter), 223, Beechwood, 157, 171, 300–303, 304, 400, 225, 370 428, 452 Bradley-Martin, Cornelia Sherman, 223, Beekman family, 28, 47 225–226, 370–376, 423 Beer, Thomas, 2 Bradley-Martin Ball, 370–376, 423 Belcourt, 142, 157, 246, 315–317 Brann, William, 225, 383–384 restoration of, 452 Breakers, 157, 241–242, 319–326, 452 Belmont, Alva Vanderbilt (Mrs. Oliver), 71, Brinnin, John Malcolm, 232 345, 350, 367, 410, 416, 425, 455 Broadway, 15–16, 24, 47, 135, 339, 340 death of, 443 Brown, Isaac, 340 marriage of, 314–317 “Brown’s Brigade,” 340 social power of, 399, 452 brownstones, 129–130, 135–136, 140, 151, social welfare causes and, 442–443 166–168, 170 See also Vanderbilt, Alva Buccaneers, The (Wharton), 56, 383 Belmont, August, 94–95, 98, 139, 185, Burden, Evelyn Townsend, 107 283, 311 Burden, Florence Adele Sloane mansion of, 134, 165 (Mrs. James), 191–194, 223 social acceptance of, 252 Burden, Florence Twombly Union Club and, 92, 326 (Mrs. William), 191 Belmont, Caroline Perry (Mrs. August), Burden, Henry, 191 94, 166, 300, 311 Burden, James, 191–194, 223 Belmont, Eleanor, 85 Burden, Mrs. and Mrs. Townsend, 368, 424 Belmont, Oliver, 242–243, 311–317, 367, Burden, William, 191 375, 400, 442 butlers, 195–198, 351, 353, 355–356, Belmont, Perry, 185, 283 358–359 Belmont family, 66, 317 duties of, 198, 201 Belton House, 277, 278 By-the-Sea, 300 Benedict XV, Pope, 447 Bennett, James Gordon (“Young café society, 452–453 Bennett”), 95–98, 334, 448 calling cards, 60, 70–72 yachts of, 233–234, 236 of Mrs. Astor, 169 Bergdorf-Goodman, 450 Calumet Club, 92 Berkshires, 1, 8, 68, 117, 271–286, 439, Canfi eld, Richard, 94 451, 454 Canfi eld family, 368 Billings, Cornelius, K. G., 18–21 Canfi eld’s, 93–94 Biltmore, 157, 286, 288–297, 445, 454 Carnegie, Andrew, 351 scale of, 292–293 Carnegie family, 2, 117 as tourist destination, 451 Carolus-Duran, Charles, 173–175, Birmingham, Stephen, 181 369, 374 Bitter, Karl, 158, 159, 173, 293, 294, 295, Carpathia (ocean liner), 438, 439 308, 339 carriages, 15, 16, 95, 218, 231, 243–245, blackmail, 411–412, 414–415, 422 273, 334 Blenheim Palace, 39, 385, 445 cost of maintenance of, 117

bbindex.inddindex.indd 493493 88/29/08/29/08 1:11:591:11:59 PMPM 494 INDEX

Cartier, 224, 225, 227, 380 Codman, Ogden, Jr., 267, 275, 276, Castellane, Paul Ernest Boniface 277–278, 283, 325 (“Boni”), Comte de, 223, 390–398, Collier, Peter, 413 446–447, 448 Collier, Robert, 413–414 Catholicism, 111, 339, 444, 447 Collier’s Weekly, 413–414, 417 Central Park, 14, 16–17, 218, 241, Confessions of a Social Secretary 243–244, 291, 454 (anon.), 208 Chanler, Margaret, 416 conspicuous consumption, 10–11, 221 Chanler, Mrs. Winthrop, 36, 360 corruption, 1, 2, 24, 41, 186, 251 Chanler, Winthrop, 101 corsets, 215 Château-sur-Mer, 157, 300 costume balls chef de cuisine, 195, 199–200, 203 Bradley-Martin, 370–376 French, 35, 95, 196, 199 Hyde, 402–406 privileges of, 206 Vanderbilt (Alva), 59–66, 370 children, 5, 73, 116, 133, 240 country estates, 249–286, 336 Christian Science, 268 costs of maintaining, 117 Christmas, 261–262, 268, 296 lady’s clothing and, 216–217 Church, Frederick, 250 leisure diversions and, 74 churches, 5, 339–341 transportation to, 231, 239 selling of pews by, 340–351 See also specifi c places names See also specifi c churches court presentations, 68 Churchill, Allen, 89 Craven, 4th Earl of, 223, 225 Churchill, Jennie Jerome, Lady, 134, 381 Crockett, Albert, 405, 406 Churchill, Randolph, Lord, 134, 381 Crossways, 112, 113, 247–248, 332–333 Churchill, Winston, 134 Crowninshield, Frank, 249 cigarette cases, 224, 357, 367 cultural life, 6, 8, 37, 73, 84, 85, 88–89, cigarette smoking. See smoking 343. See also art collections; opera Civil War, 2–3, 120, 407, 415 Cunard Line, 430, 438 Cleopatra’s Needle, 454 Currier and Ives, 241 Clermont, 250, 259 Curzon, George, 384 Cleveland, Grover, 186, 187 Cushing, Otto, 375 Clews, Harry, 14, 65, 92, 400 Cutting, James, 112 Cliff Walk, 335–336 Cutting family, 368 clothing, 16, 36–37, 118, 197, 202, 209–220, 231, 240, 245, 247, 380 Damrosch, Walter, 389 at-home days, 341–342 dance cards, 363 beach attire, 217, 336 dance halls, 93 cost of, 117 dancing class, 37, 74 display of, 231, 338 Davis, Alexander Jackson, 254, 256, 257 laundering of, 204 debutantes, 37, 72, 74–75, 343, 381–384 for motorcars, 247 balls and, 362, 363, 364 servants’ care of, 200–201, 210, 213, social season and, 337–338 215, 216 Decoration of Houses, The (Wharton and young girl’s, 74 Codman), 275, 277 clubs, 5, 91–93, 96, 97 Delmonico’s, 17–18, 37, 361, 411 coaching, 96–97, 98, 245, 261, 334 department stores, 15–16, 135 attire for, 216–217, 245 Depew, Chauncey, 45, 113, 124, 367 coachmen, 195, 205, 243, 244–245 Detaille, Édouard, 89, 137, 149, 150

bbindex.inddindex.indd 494494 88/29/08/29/08 1:11:591:11:59 PMPM INDEX 495

Deuel, Joseph H., 410, 413–414 Equitable Life Assurance Society, 75, de Wolfe, Elsie, 275 98, 406 Diamond Horseshoe, 48, 345 European model, 7, 9, 10, 36 diamonds, 61, 62, 103, 221–229, 345, 348, art collection and, 88 369, 373–374, 380, 404, 425, 430 country houses and, 249, 289 etiquette of wearing, 223 fashion and, 203 Dick, William, 441 horses and, 240–241 dinner parties, 8, 17, 19, 36, 71, 338, jewelry and, 222, 224, 226, 227, 228 349–360 McAllister and, 33, 34–35 excess of, 10–11, 360, 399 New York vs., 2, 6 exclusivity of, 349–350 servants and, 34–35, 196 formal wear for, 218, 353 Wharton and, 273, 280 hours of, 349, 360 See also aristocracy; France invitations to, 70, 350–351 European trips, 10, 68, 127, 130, 377–398 jewelry worn at, 221, 229 annual cost of, 117 novelty themes for, 399–402, 425 See also transatlantic voyages servants and, 198, 203 table settings, 353–354, 355–357 Fads and Fancies (Mann), 269, 412 divorce, 42, 77, 119, 185, 263, 398 Fahnestock, William, 333 Vanderbilts and, 312–314, 317, 444 Fairholme, 119 Dodd, George, 436 Fairlawn, 107 “dollar princesses,” 381–390 farming, 268–269, 292 Drayton, James Coleman, 75–77 Farrand, Beatrix, 279 Dressler, Marie, 84–85 Faust (Gounod), 48 Drew, Daniel, 41, 251 Ferncliff, 27, 268–270, 451 Drexel, Alice, 224 Fête des Roses, 126–127 Drexel, Anthony, 235–236 Fifth Avenue, 15–18, 24, 442 Drexel, John, 119, 243 churches, 339 dudes, 224 gentlemen’s clubs, 92 duel challenges, 75, 76, 97–98 ladies’ carriage drives, 218, 243–244 Duncan, Isadora, 400 mansions, 8, 121, 129–177, 423 Dutch families, 3, 28, 39, 82, 249–250 motorcar accidents, 247 Dyer, Elisha, Jr., 324, 366, 367, 400, 401 Fish, Hamilton, 82 Fish, Mamie Anthon (Mrs. Stuyvesant), Easton’s Beach, 336 56, 82–86, 213, 243, 345, 367, 375, economic depression, 250, 251, 370–371 404, 409, 424 Edison, Thomas, 316 caustic remarks of, 85–86, 183, 452 education, 5, 73, 116 dinner parties and, 355–356 Edward VII. See Wales, Prince of eccentricity of, 82, 84, 400–402, 446 840 Fifth Avenue, 171–177, 189, 368 gilded society’s decline and, 452–453 electric lights, 316, 355–356 happy marriage of, 82–83 electric vacuum cleaners, 202 last years of, 446 Elliott, Maud Howe, 34 Lehr and, 108, 109, 111–114, 446 Elm Court, 280–284, 451, 452 on marriage to nobility, 383 English servants, 196, 198, 200 McAllister and, 104 English society. See aristocracy; London motorcar driving of, 246, 247–248 Episcopal Church, 5, 102, 116, 339–341, Newport house of, 112, 113, 247–248, 371–372, 428 332–333

bbindex.inddindex.indd 495495 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:001:12:00 PMPM 496 INDEX

Fish, Mamie Anthon (continued) Gilded Age, The (Twain), 1 New York houses of, 189–191, 416 Gilded Age society, 1–21, 36 novelty parties of, 400–402, 425 aesthetic taste of, 88–89 outrageous behavior of, 11, 12, 85–86, aspirants to, 115–128 112–115 Astors’ rise to height of, 32 restaurant dining by, 343–344 characterization of, 1–5 servants of, 198, 208 critics of, 84, 371–372, 376, 402, 406, as social leader, 71, 79, 82, 183, 333, 399 422, 423, 454 Fish, Marian, 83 decline of, 423–424, 453–454 Fish, Sidney, 83 diamond tiara as symbol of, 221 Fish, Stuyvesant, 82–83, 85, 86, 104, 367, 424 dining hour of, 349 Fish, Stuyvesant, Jr., 83 duration of, 8–9, 452 Fish family, 38 end to, 12, 439, 452–455 Fisk, Jim, 41, 251 Episcopal Church and, 5, 339–341 Fleet, Frederick, 433 four hundred and, 38, 47 Floradora (musical), 417 gentlemen aspirants to, 95–102 food. See menus last gasps of, 399–422 footmen, 195, 196, 201–202, 205, leaders of, 71, 79–86, 126, 399, 452. See 244–245, 261, 372, 389, 403 also Astor, Caroline Schermerhorn at dinner parties, 352, 357 legacy of, 12, 454–455 duties of, 201–202 Newport’s dominance of, 299–317 four hundred, 47, 105, 107, 375, 385 New York City as center of, 13–21 McAllister’s list of, 104 “Nobs” and Swells” and, 35 origin of term, 38 novelty prized by, 20, 399–402 France, 98, 224, 226, 280, 393–398 pre-Civil War society vs., 2–12 architecture of, 157–163, 172–173, 184, primary business of, 37 190, 289, 290, 293, 304 propitious marriages and, 26, 56, 66, 95, art treasures of, 132 120–128, 182 chefs from, 35, 95, 196, 199 qualifi cations for acceptance into, servants from, 196, 200 35–36, 46 See also Paris rigid barriers to, 115–118 French Riviera, 379–380 rituals of, 339–348 Frick, Henry Clay, 454 scandal and, 407–422 Frick family, 117 second phase excesses of, 9–10, 11, Friedland 1807 (Meissonier), 137–138 19–21, 78–79, 98–99, 376, 392–396, furs, 338 399–422, 425 Glaenzer, Georges, 266, 267 gambling clubs, 93–94 Glenclyffe, 83 Garfi eld, James A., 258 gloves, 210, 211, 216, 218, 341, 363 Genius of America, The (Yvon), 137 Goelet, Mary Wilson (Mrs. Ogden), gentlemen. See society gentlemen 112–113, 121, 195, 345, 368 Gerard, James, 5, 56, 101, 106, 107, Goelet, May, 384 108, 404 Goelet, Ogden, 112–113, 121, 195, 368 Gerry, Mr. and Mrs. Elbridge, 367 Goelet family, 47, 345 Gibbons, Grinling, 161, 278 gold market, 251 Gibbons, Thomas, 40 Gone with the Wind (Mitchell), 120 Gibson, Charles Dana, 417 Gould, Anna, 223–224, 253, 255, 390–398, “Gibson Girl” look, 212 446–448

bbindex.inddindex.indd 496496 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:001:12:00 PMPM INDEX 497

Gould, Edith (Mrs. George), 224–225, 404 Horse Fair, The (Bonheur), 138, 454 Gould, Edwin, 253 horses, 15, 18–21, 37, 54–55, 95, 240–245, Gould, Frank, 253 268, 309, 334, 338 Gould, George, 108, 224, 225, 239, 253, Belmont and, 95, 242–243, 315 396, 404 gentlemen’s obsession with, 88 Gould, Helen (daughter), 253, 255, 258, 446 Lenox show and hunt, 273 Gould, Helen Miller (Mrs. Jay), 252–253, 258 maintenance costs of, 117 Gould, Howard, 253 stables, 241–245, 282–283, 317 Gould, Jay, 41, 224, 239, 250–258, 262, See also carriages; riding 379, 390, 391, 446 Horse Show Association, 338 trusts left by, 396 hotels, 17, 170, 171 Gould family, 2, 47, 253 balls held in, 361 governesses, 5, 73, 196 housekeepers, 195, 208, 351 Grace Church, 29, 105, 225, 340 status of, 198–199, 206, 207 Gracie, Archibald, 436 House of Mirth, The (Wharton), 184, 262 Grand Central Station, 14, 41, 218 houses, 1, 2, 8, 10, 17, 129–164 Grant, Ulysses S., 61, 122, 251 as apex of Gilded Age, 191–194 Great Triumvirate, 79–86 costs of running, 117 greenhouses, 255, 282 interior plan of, 131–134 grooms, 195, 205, 243–245, 352 largest private house in America, 285, Guggenheim, Benjamin, 428, 430 286, 289 as public beautifi cation, 12, 37, 164, 179 Haig, George Ogilvy, 78 public interest in, 134 hair ornaments, 222, 229 size/grandeur of, 131, 179–194 hair styles, 68, 74 ultimate fates of, 449–452 Hammersley, Lillian, 346 White commissions, 416 Hapgood, Norman, 413–415 winter social season and, 337 Happy House, 182 See also country estates; specifi c houses Hardouin-Mansart, Jules, 308, 393 and owners Harriman, Edward Henry, 86 Howe, Julia Ward, 243, 300 Harriman, Mary, 86 Hudson River valley, 1, 14, 18, 39–40, 68, Harriman, Oliver, 390, 391, 414 83, 249–270, 271, 439 Harrison, Benjamin, 104 Astor estate, 27, 268–270, 300 Harrison, Mrs. Burton, 272, 383 Gould estate, 253–258 Harvest Ball, 353 house preservation, 450–451, 454 hats, 215, 217 Knickerbocker elite and, 3, 26, 249–250 Haver, Marie Arnot, 410 Mills estate, 182, 258–262 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 271, 284 Vanderbilt estate, 263–278 Hearst, William Randolph, 407 Hunt, Richard Morris, 54, 58, 62, Herbert, Leila (Belle) Wilson, 121, 124 151–152, 159, 160, 449, 450 Herbert, Michael, 121 Astor (Caroline) houses and, 171, Herbert, Victor, 375 172–173, 175 Herter, Christian, 143, 147, 148 Beechwood and, 300–303 Herter Brothers, 132, 142, 143, 158, 162 Belcourt and, 315–317 historicism, 155, 156, 182, 293 Belmont stables and, 242, 243 homosexuality, 110–111, 112 Biltmore and, 288–296, 297 Hopkins, Mark, 180 Breakers and, 319–326 Horseback Dinner, 19–21 career of, 156–157

bbindex.inddindex.indd 497497 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:001:12:00 PMPM 498 INDEX

Hunt, Richard Morris (continued) Jones, Lucretia, 274 death of, 291 Jones, Mary Mason, 138–140, 155 Marble House and, 303–311 Jones, Pembroke, 333 Mills house and, 182–183 Jones family, 273–275 Hunt, Richard Morris, Jr., 291 Junior Patriarchs, 37 hunting and shooting, 88, 210, 261, 273 Huntington, Arabella Worsham Kavalar, Lucy, 30 (Mrs. Collis), 180–181, 229, 414 King, Archibald Gracie, 361 Huntington, Collis P., 179–181, 229, 237 Kingscote, 300 Huntington, Elizabeth Stoddard, 180 Klein, Maury, 252, 258 Huntington, Henry, 181 Klunder, Charles, 59 Huntington Library and Art Gallery, 181 Klunder, Hodgson, Wadley, & Smith, Hyde, Henry Baldwin, 98 351, 368 Hyde, James Hazen, 96–99, 106 Knickerbocker Club, 91, 92 costume ball of, 402–406 Knickerbocker society, 2–6, 26, 29, 32–38, Hyde Park, 250 47, 66, 95, 166 Vanderbilt estate, 263–268, 445, 450 dining hour of, 349 New Year’s calls and, 341 Idle Hour, 54, 157 New York City houses of, 130, 142, Illinois Central Railroad, 75, 82, 86 166, 167 immigrants, 14, 25, 196 Union Club and, 92 income tax, 1, 439, 442, 455 Wharton and, 273–274 interior design, 158–159, 275, 276–278, Knoll, 253–254 282, 325 invitations, 70, 350–351, 362 ladies. See society ladies response to, 71 “Ladies’ Mile,” 15–16 Irving, Washington, 250, 254 lady’s maids, 196, 200–201, 203, 213, Irving Place, 47 215, 216 Iselin family, 368 La Farge, John, 150, 300, 325, 340 Ismay, J. Bruce, 432–433 landscape design, 254–255, 279, 282, Italian Villas and Their Gardens 291–292 (Wharton), 279 Landseer, Sir Edwin, 149, 150 Land’s End, 275 James, Henry, 279, 297, 300, 326 Langdon, Margaret, 31 Jerome, Jennie. See Churchill, Langdon, Walter and Dorothy Astor, Jennie Jerome 263–264 Jerome, Leonard, 134 laundry, 196, 203–204 Jerome, William Travers, 414, 415, 422 Lauriat, Charles, 282 jewelry, 36–37, 61, 62, 221–230 lawn tennis. See tennis Bradley-Martin collection, 225–226, Leeds, William and Nancy, 119–120, 220, 373–374 229–230 as breeding indication, 223 Lefebvre, Jules, 151 debutantes and, 74 Lehr, Elizabeth Drexel, 31, 34, 56, 75, 77, display of, 338 83, 101–102, 120, 126, 132, 136, 183, of opera patrons, 344, 345, 347 198, 221, 244, 344, 350–351, 390, See also diamonds; pearls 401, 424 Jews, 31, 94, 95, 252, 428 Astor opera ball and, 365, 367, 368 Jones, George Noble, 300 on horses, 240, 338

bbindex.inddindex.indd 498498 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:001:12:00 PMPM INDEX 499

husband Harry and, 105, 107, 108–111, Mace, Daniel, 240–241 214, 446 Mackay, Clarence, 345, 414 on Newport, 299, 333, 335, 336 Mackay, Mrs. Clarence, 404 on social rituals, 339 Macy’s Department Store, 16, 428 third marriage of, 446 Madison Avenue, 15, 24, 339, 341 Lehr, Harry, 103, 105–114, 119, 120, 183, Madison Square, 17, 134 211, 303, 325, 344, 374, 375, 424 Madison Square Garden, 338, 415–416, Astor opera ball and, 367 417, 420–421 background of, 105 maids, 73, 195, 200–203, 261, 352 Bal Blanc and, 327–328, 330 Maine, 116, 271, 427 cotillions and, 366 Mamzelle Champagne (musical), 420 homosexuality of, 108, 110–111 Manchester, Duchess of, 313, 382 as ladies’ fashion expert, 214 Mandeville, Lady, 56, 57, 59, 313. See also later years and death of, 446 Yznaga, Consuelo marriage of, 108–111 Mandeville, Viscount, 56 mischief of, 111–114, 446 Mangold, Ferdinand, 254–255 motorcar race and, 246 Manhattan Club, 138 novelty parties and, 400–402 Mann, Eugene, 407, 409 Town Topics and, 407 Mann, Mildred, 410–411 Leighton, Sir Frederick, 149, 150 Mann, William d’Alton, 269, 407–415, 448 Leiter, Mary, 384 Marble House, 157, 303–311, 314, 317, Lenox. See Berkshires 319, 326, 386, 442, 452 Lent, 337, 377 Marble Row, 138–140, 155 letters of credit, 379 Margarita (yacht), 235–236 linens, 204–205 Marlborough, Duke of (“Sunny”), “Line of Least Resistance, The” 384–390, 443–444 (Wharton), 283 Marlborough House Set, 119, 122, 381 Littleton, Martin Wiley, 415 marriage livery, 34–35, 197, 201–202 annulment of, 444, 447 dinner parties, 352 calling cards and, 71 stables, 243, 244–245 eligible bachelors and, 99 Livingston family, 3, 26, 47, 92, 130, 250, jewelry gifts and, 223–224, 227 259, 260, 368 servant restrictions, 197, 206 Loew, Marcus, 449–450 society gentleman’s expectations Logan, Andy, 410 from, 87 London, 2, 10, 14, 119, 122–123 to titled husbands, 118–119, 121, gentleman’s clothing from, 210 382–398, 446–447 social season, 377, 380–382 uniting old and new society, 26, 56, 66, London clubs, 91 95, 120–128, 182, 191 Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, unsuitable matches, 75–78, 274 272, 300 unwilling brides, 101, 384–390 Long Island, 54, 98 Vanderbilt (Alva) view of, 311 motorcar race, 246–247 wedding excess, 225, 388–389 Longworth, Nicholas, 99 as young lady’s goal, 74–75, 364, Lord, Walter, 406 381–384 Lusitania (ocean liner), 52, 430 Martin, Bradley, 223, 225–226 Lyndhurst, 253–258, 448, 450 Bradley-Martin ball and, Lysistrata (yacht), 233–234 370–376

bbindex.inddindex.indd 499499 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:001:12:00 PMPM 500 INDEX

Martin, Frederick Townsend, 10, 370, 372, Hudson River mansion of, 182, 374, 399, 423–424 258–262, 450 Martinez Cardeza, Charlotte Drake, Miramar, 428 429–430 Mitchell, Margaret, 120 matinees, 342–343 Monte Carlo, 380, 393 Mauretania (ocean liner), 430 Montgomery Place, 250 May, Caroline, 97 Mook, Robert, 139 May, Frederick, 97–98 Morgan, J. P., 92–93, 113, 231, 247, 400, McAllister, Sarah Gibbons, 33–34 414, 430, 454 McAllister, Ward, 33–38, 47, 48, 62, Morgan family, 2, 47, 117, 339 103–108, 115, 116, 166 Morris, Lloyd, 5–6, 38, 78, 111, 139, 177, on dinner parties, 350, 351, 357–358 221, 244, 246, 341–342, 351, 426 “four hundred” list of, 104, 385 motorcars, 15, 117, 217, 231, 245–248, 334 Newport and, 300, 326 Mount, the, 276–280, 284, 451 on “Old Fossils,” 341 Mount Desert Island, 271 Patriarch balls and, 37, 52, 361 social downfall of, 103–105, 107 Namouna (yacht), 233, 236 Vanderbilt’s social acceptance and, nannies, 5, 196 58, 61 nature, idealization of, 249 McKim, Charles, 163, 263–264, 266, 415 Nesbit, Evelyn, 417–422, 449 McKim, Mead, and White, 189–190, 259, Neustetter, Nellie, 313–314 263–266, 334, 415 New England Society of Jesus, 451 Medicis, 188, 224, 265, 320 Newport, 1, 8, 12, 23, 26, 31, 68, 79, 107, Vanderbilts as modern-day, 8 195, 245, 271–273, 299–311, Meissonier, Jean-Louis-Ernest, 89, 90–91, 319–336, 377, 412, 413, 416, 95, 137–138, 149, 150 428, 439 Melville, Herman, 272 Astor (Caroline) and, 157, 169, 171, menus, 10, 433 300–303, 400 at home receptions, 341–342 Bal Blanc and, 327–332 ball suppers, 103, 189, 365–366, 370, Bennett’s escapades in, 97 375, 405 entertainment excess, 333–334 dinner parties, 357–358 Fish and Lehr pranks in, 111–114 Merritt, George, 254, 257 house maintenance costs, 117 Meslans, Susanne, 451 Hunt funeral and burial in, 291 Metropolitan Club, 92–93, 312 mansions’ landmark status, 452, 454 Metropolitan Museum of Art, 12, 156, 454 motorcars, 246, 247–248 Metropolitan Opera House, 1, 47–49, 52, new society’s transformation of, 299, 344–348, 368, 403 300–303, 326–336 behavior at, 347–348 Oelrichs and, 326–332, 416, 445–446 opening of, 48–49 social aspirants and, 116, 119 parterre boxes, 345–347 stables, 241–243 Metropolitan Opera Orchestra, 404 Vanderbilt (Alva) and, 303–311, Metropolitan Transit Company, 186 315–317, 386 Midland Theater (Kansas City), 450 Vanderbilt (Cornelius II) and, “Millionaire’s Club,” 93 319–326 Mills, Darius, 182 Vanderbilt (Grace) and, 126–127 Mills, Ogden, 182, 261, 263, 367, 424, 450 Wharton and, 275, 300 Mills, Ruth Livingston (Mrs. Ogden), 71, Newport Casino Club, 334–335 181–184, 367, 424 newspapers. See press

bbindex.inddindex.indd 500500 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:011:12:01 PMPM INDEX 501

Newton, Dudley, 332 Bal Blanc and, 327–332 New Year’s Day open house, 341 cleanliness obsession of, 81 New York Central Railroad, 41, 45, 124, good treatment of servants by, 201 182, 262, 282 later years and death of, 445–446 New York City, 2–6, 24–25, 213 Newport cottage of, 326–332, 416 disreputable establishments, 93–94 as social leader, 79–82, 183, 399 fashionable neighborhoods, Olmsted, Frederick Law, 281, 282, 288, 129–130 291, 292, 296 gentlemen’s clubs, 91–93 Olympic (ocean liner), 430, 432 household expenses, 117 open house, 341–342 in 1903, 13–21 opera, 47–49, 52, 218, 229, 243, 287, as social apex, 115–116 344–348 New York Coaching Club, 245, 403 opera balls, 361 New York Harbor, 14, 39 Mrs. Astor’s, 65, 103, 367–370, New York Horse Show, 338 424–425 New York Public Library, 454 Oyster Bay, 98 New York Riding Club, 19, 20 New York Yacht Club, 91 Pacquin (couture house), 213, 380 Nicholas II, Tsar, 113, 127, 334 pages, 205 Nikolaievich, Konstantin, Grand Paget, Minnie Stevens, Lady, 56, 118–119, Duke, 232 382, 384–385 Noble Slave, The (Rembrandt), 161, 454 Paget, Pauline Whitney, 186–187 noblesse oblige, 7, 36, 150 Paget, Sir Almeric, 186–187 “Nobs” (old money), 35 Paget, Sir Arthur, 118, 182 North Carolina. See Biltmore Paint and Powder Club, 105 North Star (yacht), 231–232 pajamas, 211 Nourmahal (yacht), 30–31, 234, 236 Palais Rose, 393–394, 396, 397, 448 nouveau riches, 3–4, 35–36, 52, 79, 89, Panic of 1857, 250 95–98, 180–186, 271 Panic of 1869, 251 bribes to McAllister from, 104 Panic of 1897, 370–371 European aristocracy and, 380–381 parasols, 216, 217 gentlemen’s clubs and, 92 Paris, 2, 10, 55, 182, 393–394 Metropolitan Opera House founding American visitors to, 377, 380–381 by, 47–49 art purchases from, 89, 90 as social climbers, 10–11, 38, couture houses of, 213–215, 231, 380 115–128, 165 jewel ateliers of, 224 nurses, 73, 195 Park Row, 247 parlor maids, 202, 203 Oaks, 99 Parmentier, André, 264 Obolensky, Prince Serge, 442 Parrish, Daniel, 300 ocean liners, 377–378, 430–439 pastry chef, 293 Ochre Court, 112, 157, 195 Patriarch balls, 37, 52, 58, 104, 361, 362, Ochre Point, 319, 320, 335 385, 452 Oelrichs, Blanche, 79, 86, 336, 409 Paulding, William, 254 Oelrichs, Hermann, 79, 81–82, 367 Payne, Henry, 186, 187 Oelrichs, Hermann, Jr., 81 Payne, Oliver, 186, 187 Oelrichs, Marjorie, 81 Peabody, Robert S., 281 Oelrichs, Teresa Fair (Tessie), 71, 109, 246, Peacock Alley, 17 345, 367, 400 pearls, 221–229

bbindex.inddindex.indd 501501 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:011:12:01 PMPM 502 INDEX

Pembroke-Jones, Mrs. and Mrs., 368 Rector’s restaurant, 17 perfume, 69 Réjane, Gabrielle, 405 perjury, 515 Rembrandt, 88, 137, 161, 181, 393, 454 Perry, Matthew, 94 Renwick, James, 340 Perry, Oliver Hazard, 94 restaurants, 17–18, 108 philanthropy, 116, 454 balls held in, 361 Astor family, 25, 26, 442, 454 women patrons of, 343–344 Belmont (Alva), 442 Rhinebeck, 27, 268–270, 450–451 Vanderbilt family, 43, 51, 52, 268, 454 riding, 18–21, 74, 96–97, 98, 240–245, 261 Philippsburg Manor, 250 lady’s attire for, 217, 240 Phillips, Caroline Drayton, 75–76 Riding Club, 91 Phillips, Jack, 432 Ripley, Annah, 403, 504 Pierce, Franklin, 95 Ripley, Mrs. Sidney Dillon, 403–404 Pinchot, Gifford, 291–292 Rockefeller family, 2, 47, 117 Pinkerton Detective Agency, 240 Romanov dynasty, 112–113 Pius XI, Pope, 447 Rooney, Teresa, 79 plate books, 356 Roosevelt, Alice, 99, 126, 412–413 Post, Edwin, 414, 415 Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, 75 Post, Emily, 414 Roosevelt, James, 75 Post, George Browne, 151–152, 153, 181, Roosevelt, Theodore, 99, 126, 372, 412, 319–320 413, 444 poverty, 372, 406, 446 Roosevelt, Mrs. Theodore, 85 preparatory schools, 5 Roosevelt family, 38, 47, 75, 250, 368 Preservation Society of Newport Rosecliff, 326–332, 416, 445–446, 452 County, 452 Rose Cottage, 255 press, 7, 20–21, 65, 77, 96, 104, 383–384, Rothschild family, 94, 289 402, 405, 406–415 Rough Point, 225, 335 press agents, 116 Roxburghe, Duke of, 384 private clubs. See clubs Russell, William Howard, 134 private detectives, 229, 240, 253, 427 Rutherfurd, Anne Harriman Sands, 443 private railway cars, 1, 231, 236–240, Rutherfurd, Lewis, 385 296, 407 Rutherfurd, Winthrop, 385–386, 443 costs of upkeep, 117 Rutherfurd family, 38, 385 prostitutes, 31, 93 Pulitzer, Joseph, 407 Sagan, Prince de, 398, 446, 447, 448 Pulitzer, Ralph, 133, 344, 353 sailing. See yachts Pullman, George M., 237, 239 St. Bartholomew’s Episcopal Church, 51, Pullman Company, 407 339, 340–341 Saint-Gaudens, Augustus, 340, 416 railroads, 75, 82, 86, 271 St. George’s Episcopal Church, 371–372 “Big Four” and, 180 St. Martin’s Church, 445 Gould and, 251 St. Patrick’s Cathedral, 110, 111, 142–143, Vanderbilts and, 14, 41, 45, 50, 262, 339, 340 281–282, 289 St. Paul’s School, 99, 123 See also private railway cars St. Thomas’s Episcopal Church, 187, Rainsford, William, 371–372 339–340, 388–389 Ralston, William, 182 Sanson, Ernest, 393 receiving. See social calls Saratoga Springs, 240, 271

bbindex.inddindex.indd 502502 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:011:12:01 PMPM INDEX 503

Sargent, John Singer, 295 New Year’s Day, 341 scandal, 75, 76–77, 98, 125, 170, 407–422, receiving and, 341–343 423, 428 receiving attire for, 218 Sloane-Belmont affair, 185, 283 rules of, 70–72 Town Topics and, 82, 185, 409–415 social climbers. See nouveau riches Vanderbilt-Belmont affair, 310–317 social season, summer, 68, 116, 377. Vanderbilt-Torrance affair, 263 See also Berkshires; Newport White and, 415–422, 449 social season, winter, 17, 74, 244, 336, Schermerhorn, Abraham, 27–28 337–348 Schermerhorn, Caroline Webster. See duration of, 59, 68, 337, 377 Astor, Caroline Schermerhorn European travel following, 377–378 Schermerhorn family, 3, 5, 27–28, 37, 47 formal inauguration of, 338 schools. See education Mrs. Astor’s opera ball as apex of, Schuyler, Montgomery, 9 367–370 Schuyler family, 3, 47, 130 See also balls; dinner parties Seitz, Anton, 150 social secretaries, 69 servants, 4, 195–208, 243, 261, 352, 363 social welfare causes, 442–443, 446 carriages and, 244–245 society gentlemen, 5, 87–102, 224, 340 European model for, 34–35, 196 art collecting by, 88–91 Newport villas and, 309–310, 312 balls and, 37, 363, 364–365, 366 ranking of, 196–199, 202, 206 clothing of, 209–211, 245, 247 restrictions on, 205–206 clubs of, 91–93 Shadow Brook, 284–286, 451 daily life of, 91 Sharp, Jacob, 186 dinner parties and, 353 Shaw-Safe, Tony, 85 disreputable activities and, 93–94, Shelbourne Farms (Vt.), 239 96–99 Shepard, Margaret Vanderbilt, 46, 143 horses and, 54–55, 88, 240–245 Sherry’s Hotel and Restaurant, 18, 19–21, leading examples of, 94–102 108, 111, 402, 403 motorcars and, 246–247 ladies’ dining at, 343–344 Newport pastimes of, 334 sidesaddle riding, 217, 240 society ladies, 5, 67–86 660 Fifth Avenue, 58–59, 60, 62, 155–164, balls and, 363, 364–365 172, 306, 314, 454 carriages and, 231, 243–244, 246 demolition of, 449 clothing of, 16, 118, 211–220, 244, 363 sleighs, 244, 268 coming of age of, 74. See also debutantes Sloane, Adele, 51 dinner parties and, 353 Sloane, Emily Vanderbilt (Mrs. William), elegance of, 16 46, 75, 143, 191, 280–284, 296, 451 European trips and, 380–382 Sloane, Henry T., 184–185, 283 exclusivity of, 116 Sloane, Jessie (Mrs. Henry T.), 184–185, 283 hourglass shape of, 215 Sloane, William, 184, 191, 280–281, 283 jewelry of, 221–230 Smith, Edward, 432, 433 lady’s maids and, 200–201, 203, 213 smoking, 78, 85, 344, 360 Lehr’s role with, 108–109 smoking rooms, 133, 154–155, 363, 366, morning routine of, 68–70 449–450 Newport pastimes of, 334 social calls, 334 open house days of, 341–352 calling cards and, 60, 70–72 post–Gilded Age causes of, carriages and, 243 442–443, 446

bbindex.inddindex.indd 503503 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:011:12:01 PMPM 504 INDEX

society ladies (continued) teas. See afternoon tea rearing of, 73–74 Temple Emanu-El, 450 restaurant dining and, 343–344 tenements, 25, 446 riding skills of, 74, 217, 240 tennis, 74, 273, 335 role of, 67–68 attire for, 210, 217 servants and, 196–197, 198, 200–201, Thaw, Harry, 419–422, 449 206, 208 Theory of the Leisure Class, The (Veblen), smoking by, 78, 85, 344 10–11 soirees, 343 tiaras, diamond, 61, 62, 221–227, 345, 373, Spencer-Churchill, Charles. See 374, 380 Marlborough, Duke of Tiffany, Louis Comfort, 133, 154–155 Spencer-Churchill, Sarah, Lady, 443 Tiffany & Company, 16, 224, 225, 355, Spiritualists, 43 356, 367, 374, 430 Spouting Rock Beach Association, 336 Times Square, 24 Staatsburg, 259–262 Titanic (ocean liner), 430–439, 441, stables. See horses 442, 452 Standard Oil, 186, 187 Toilette of Venus, The (Boucher), 162, 454 Stanford, Leland, 180 Torrance, Daniel, 263 Staten Island, 39, 44, 141–142, 232 tourists, 12, 134, 317, 379, 451 Statue of Liberty, 14, 156 Townsend, Samuel, 135–136, 409 steamships, 40, 251. See also ocean Town Topics, 82, 112, 185, 226, 407–415, liners; yachts 422, 448 Stevens, Alfred, 150 exposure of, 413–415 Stevens, Harry, 273–274, 275 transatlantic voyages, 232, 235, 377–378 Stevens, Marietta (Mrs. Paran), 118, 273, transportation, 231–248 274–275 Trinity Church (Newport), 291, 300 Stevens, Paran, 118, 274–275 Trinity Church (N.Y.C.), 339, 427 Stewart, A. T., 92, 135–138, 164, 165, trolley cars, 15 167, 454 Trumbauer, Horace, 183, 428 Stewart, Cornelia (Mrs. A. T.), 135 Tub Parade (Lenox), 273 stock deals, 41, 91, 94, 251 Turf and Field Club, 91 Stokes, Anson Phelps, 284–286, 451 Turner, J. M. W., 149, 454 Stokes, Anson Phelps, Jr., 286 Turot, Henri, 395–396 Stokes, Helen Phelps, 284–286 tutors, 5, 73 Straham, Edward, 145 Twain, Mark, 1, 2 Straus, Isidor and Ida, 428 Tweed, William (“Boss”), 24, 121, 185 Straus, Nathan, 428 20 Grammercy Park, 189–190 Stuart, Gilbert, 137 24 East 72nd Street, 314 Stuart, Robert L., Jr., 187 25 East 78th Street, 190–191 Stuyvesant, Peter, 82, 385 Twin Palace, 143–151, 160, 263, 288, Stuyvesant family, 3, 38, 92 450, 455 suffragettes, 442–443, 446 2 West 57th Street, 187 summer season. See social season, summer Sunday night entertainments, 118 Union Club, 91, 92–93, 97 Sunnyside, 250, 254 Union Pacifi c Railroad, 50, 86, 251 “Swells” (new money), 35, 36, 326 Union Square, 15–16 Upjohn, Richard, 339 tailors, 108 U.S. National Lawn Tennis tea gowns, 218 Tournament, 335

bbindex.inddindex.indd 504504 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:011:12:01 PMPM INDEX 505

valets, 195, 200, 261 beauty of, 384, 443 Valhalla (yacht), 393 forced marriage to Marlborough of, Valiant (yacht), 235, 312 384–390, 444 Van Alen, Emily Vanderbilt, 75 on parents’ marital confl ict, 310, 312 Van Alen, James H. (father), 75, 400 second marriage of, 444, 445 Van Alen, James J. (son), 75 Vanderbilt, Cornelia, 296, 445 Van Buren family, 28 Vanderbilt, Cornelius (Commodore), 14, Van Cortlandt, Robert, 375 39–46, 55, 241, 251 Van Cortlandt family, 3, 28, 92, 130, 368 children of, 41–46, 49–52, 94 Van Cortlandt manor, 250 crudeness/cruelty of, 42–45, 47 Vanderbilt (railway car), 237–238 horses of, 241 Vanderbilt, Alfred, 51, 52, 126, 247 house of, 141–142, 232 Vanderbilt, Alice (daughter), 51, 52 private railway car of, 237–238 Vanderbilt, Alice Claypoole Gwynne yacht of, 231–232 (Mrs. Cornelius II), 51–52, 53, 62, 94, Vanderbilt, Cornelius II (Corneil), 46, 296, 338, 339, 445 49–52, 53, 61–62, 223, 296, 452 Newport mansion of, 319–320, 325–326 art philanthropy of, 454 New York mansion of, 151–155, club membership and, 91 449–450 daughter’s marriage and, 187 son Neily’s marriage and, 122–126, 445 inheritance of, 49 Vanderbilt, Alva (Mrs. William Kissam), Newport mansion of, 319–326 52, 55–66, 86, 170, 217, 234, 240, Newport stables of, 241–242 303–317, 382, 454 New York mansion of, 151–155, 157, abrasive personality of, 56–57, 79, 449–450 204–205, 310, 312 St. Bartholomew’s Church and, 339, affair and divorce of, 310–314 340–341 architectural interests of, 303, 320 sons’ marriages and, 122, 123, 124–126 background of, 55–56 stroke and death of, 125, 126, 262 costume ball of, 59–66, 370 wife and children of, 51–52 daughter’s domination by, 384–390, Vanderbilt, Cornelius III (Neily), 51, 52, 443, 444 367–368, 424, 450, 453 daughter’s reconciliation with, 443, 445 inheritance of, 126 daughter’s wedding and, 388–389 later years and death of, 445 divorce settlement of, 314, 449 marriage to Grace Wilson of, jewelry of, 227 123–128, 227 Leeds sponsorship by, 119–120 Vanderbilt, Cornelius Jeremiah, 41, 43 Lehr and, 109, 111 Vanderbilt, Edith Stuyvesant (Mrs. George motorcar passion of, 245, 246 Washington), 296–297 Newport mansion of, 303–311, 314, 326 Vanderbilt, Eliza. See Webb, Eliza New York mansion of, 58–59, 62, Vanderbilt 155–164, 172, 306, 449 Vanderbilt, Emily (William Backhouses’s remarriage of, 314–317. See also daughter). See Van Alen, Emily Belmont, Alva Vanderbilt Vanderbilt self-promotion of, 407 Vanderbilt, Emily (William Henry’s servants and, 202 daughter). See Sloane, Emily as social leader, 65, 68, 71, 79, 177, Vanderbilt 183, 399 Vanderbilt, Florence, 46 Vanderbilt, Consuelo, 51, 55, 57, 162, 280, Vanderbilt, Frank Crawford 309, 314, 364, 443–445 (Mrs. Cornelius), 43

bbindex.inddindex.indd 505505 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:011:12:01 PMPM 506 INDEX

Vanderbilt, Frederick, 46, 226, 237, Vanderbilt, William Henry II, 51, 52, 61, 262–270, 296, 445, 450 122, 123 Vanderbilt, George Washington, 41, 46, Vanderbilt, William Kissam (Willie), 46, 124, 157, 237, 445, 450 53–57, 296, 303, 309, 368 marriage of, 296–297 Alva’s infi delity and divorce from, North Carolina estate of, 286–297, 451 310–314, 388 personality of, 287–288 art bequests of, 454 Vanderbilt, Gertrude. See Whitney, daughter’s marriage and, 387, 389, Gertrude Vanderbilt 443–444 Vanderbilt, Gladys, 51, 52 horses of, 240 Vanderbilt, Gloria, 52 inheritance of, 49, 54 Vanderbilt, Grace Wilson Mann blackmail and, 414 (Mrs. Cornelius III), 122–128, mansion of, 155–164, 449 367–368, 413, 424 marriage to Alva of, 55, 56, 57 dislike of Mamie Fish of, 452–453 Metropolitan Club founding and, on end of Gilded Age, 455 92–93 feud with Ruth Mills of, 184 motorcars of, 246–247 jewelry collection of, 227 personality of, 53, 310–311 as Mrs. Astor’s social successor, 445 private railway car of, 237 Twin Palaces and, 450 social acceptance and, 58, 59, 62, 92–93 Vanderbilt, Harold, 67, 314, 317, 387, 389 yachts of, 234–235, 236, 312 Vanderbilt, Louisa (Mrs. William Henry), Vanderbilt, William Kissam, Jr., 67, 314, 142, 143, 151, 263, 288, 296, 389, 424 388, 450 Vanderbilt, William Kissam III, 79 Vanderbilt, Louise (Mrs. Frederick), Vanderbilt Cup Race, 246–247 226–227, 263–268, 296, 445 Vanderbilt family, 2, 8, 39–52, 182, 185, Vanderbilt, Margaret. See Shepard, 317, 368, 384, 388 Margaret Vanderbilt Biltmore’s inaugural party and, 296 Vanderbilt, Maria (Mrs. William church affi liations of, 339–340, 341–342 Henry), 46 fading from view of, 445 Vanderbilt, Reginald, 51, 52, 94 fortune of, 43, 262 Vanderbilt, Sophia (Mrs. Cornelius), houses of, 141–164, 165, 179 41, 42, 43 jewelry collections of, 226–227 Vanderbilt, Virginia Fair (Birdie) philanthropy of, 454 (Mrs. William Kissam III), 79, 326, private railroad cars of, 237–238, 296 329, 368 social acceptance campaign of, 58–65 Vanderbilt, William Cecil, 451 social acceptance of, 66, 177 Vanderbilt, William Henry, 41–42, 43–52, social rejection of, 47, 52, 53, 91 55, 191, 266 yachts and, 231–236 art collection of, 89–91 Vanderbilt University, 43, 454 character of, 45–46 Van Rensselaer, Mary King, 2–3, 4 club membership and, 91 Van Rensselaer, Mrs. John King, daughters of, 280–284 66, 335 horses and stables of, 241 Van Rensselaer family, 3, 37, 92, 130 mansion of, 142–151, 155, 160, 263, Vaux, Calvert, 300 280, 288, 450, 455 Veblen, Thorstein, 10–11, 196, philanthropy of, 454 211–212, 220 private railway car of, 237 Verdict, The (weekly), 442

bbindex.inddindex.indd 506506 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:021:12:02 PMPM INDEX 507

Victoria, Queen, 35, 380, 381, 453 house commissions of, 166–167, Vladimirovich, Boris, Grand Duke, 112, 187–191, 259–261, 326, 327, 113, 114, 333–334 329, 416 Madison Square Garden and, 338, Wagner, Richard, 347, 389 415–416 Wagner Palace Car Company, 237, 239 Metropolitan Club and, 93 Waldorf, William, 171 Nesbit seduction by, 417–421 Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, 17, 171, 371, 372, personality of, 416–417 373, 375, 376 Thaw’s murder of, 415, 420–422, 449 Waldorf Hotel, 170, 371 white gloves, 211, 216, 218, 363 Wales, Prince of (later Edward VII), 119, White House, 260, 304 122, 125, 127, 380, 381, 382, 443 Whitehouse, Worthington, 366 Walpole, Horace, 254 White Star Line, 430, 432 Wanamaker, Tom, 108, 111 Whiting, Sara Swan, 311–312 Ward, Samuel, 34 Whitney, Dorothy, 187 Warren, Whitney, 403 Whitney, Edith Randolph Washington Heights riding complex, (Mrs. William Collins), 187, 189 18–21 Whitney, Flora Payne (Mrs. William Collins), Washington Square, 129, 142, 143, 165 186, 187, 189 Washington Square Arch, 16 Whitney, Gertrude Vanderbilt Webb, Eliza Vanderbilt (Mrs. William (Mrs. Harry Payne), 51, 52, 72, 74, Seward), 46, 62, 239, 296 123, 124, 125, 187, 338 Webb, William Seward, 237, 239 debutante ball of, 325–326 Webster, William, 237 wedding of, 382 weddings. See marriage Whitney, Harry Payne, 51, 52, 187 Welling, Richard, 375 Whitney, Pauline. See Paget, Pauline Whitney Westinghouse, Mrs. George, 399 Whitney, Warren, 405 Wetmore, Edith, 119 Whitney, William, 187 Wetmore, William, 300 Whitney, William Collins, 185–189, Wharton, Edith, 4, 70, 117, 129, 273–280, 237, 414 296, 400 Whitney family, 2 affair of, 280 Whitney Museum of American Art, background of, 273–275 52, 125 “buccaneers” term of, 382, 383 Widener, George, Eleanor, and Harry, intellectual pursuits of, 6, 27, 273, 428, 430 275, 277 widows, 72, 341 models for fi ction of, 56, 95, 140, 184, Wild Rose, The (musical), 126, 127 262, 275, 283 Williams, Lionel, 267 Mount as refuge of, 276–280, 451 Williams, Ottalie, 267 Newport and, 275, 300, 325 Wilson, Caroline Astor (Carrie) Sloane feud with, 283–284 (Mrs. Marshall), 30, 60, 64, 103, 367, unhappy marriage of, 79, 275, 276, 283 369, 375 Wharton, Edward (“Teddy”), 275, marriage of, 121–122 278, 279 mother’s death and, 256 Whistler, James McNeill, 295 Wilson, Derek, 26, 31 White, Stanford, 16, 18, 156, 233, 265, Wilson, Grace Graham. See Vanderbilt, 266, 415–422 Grace Wilson Ferncliff casino and, 269–270, 451 Wilson, H. Neil, 284

bbindex.inddindex.indd 507507 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:021:12:02 PMPM 508 INDEX

Wilson, Leila (Belle). See Herbert, Wonder Book, The (Hawthorne), 284 Leila (Belle) Wilson Woodruff, Hiram, 240–241 Wilson, Marietta, 367 World War I, 1, 52, 439, 455 Wilson, Marion Mason World War II, 448 (Mrs. Richard, Jr.), 121 Worsham, Arabella, 180–181 Wilson, Marshall Orme, 121, 126 Worth of Paris, 55, 62, 81, 174, 213–214, Wilson, Mary Rita. See Goelet, Mary Wilson 218, 369, 380, 395, 425 Wilson, Melissa (Mrs. Richard), 121, 124 writing paper, 69–70 Wilson, Richard, Jr., 121 Wilson, Richard Thornton, 120–128, 124, yachts, 1, 37, 88, 231–236, 253, 312, 125, 367 334, 393 Wilson family, 120–128 Astor and, 27, 30–31, 88, 99, 234, 312, advantageous marriages of, 120, 121, 326, 331 122–128 attire for, 210, 216 wine cellars, 26, 359 cost of upkeep, 117 wines, 358–359 most lavish, 235–236 winter season. See social season, winter yellow press, 407–415 winter sports, 261 Yvon, Adolphe, 137 W. J. Sloane & Company, 16, Yznaga, Consuelo, 56, 57, 59, 313, 184–185, 280 382, 384 women’s suffrage, 442–443, 446 Yznaga, Fernando, 313 Women’s Vote Parade (1912), 442 Yznaga, Virginia, 313

bbindex.inddindex.indd 508508 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:021:12:02 PMPM bbindex.inddindex.indd 509509 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:021:12:02 PMPM bbindex.inddindex.indd 510510 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:021:12:02 PMPM bbindex.inddindex.indd 511511 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:021:12:02 PMPM bbindex.inddindex.indd 512512 88/29/08/29/08 1:12:021:12:02 PMPM