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Romania & Bulgaria 7

Romania & Bulgaria 7

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 494

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Steve Fallon Mulțumesc foarte mult to those who provided Many thanks to the travellers who used the last assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way in edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Maramureş, Crişana and the Banat, including: Dan advice and interesting anecdotes: Carpov and Rada Pavel in Baia Mare; Ion Hotea, who Adrian Ineichen, Alex Harford, Andrew Coker, pulled me out of a ditch (literally) in Mănăsteria; and Ben Fugill, Charley Harris, Chiara Motta, Dimitar Duncan and Penny Ridgley in Breb. Thanks, too, to Vlaevsky, Felice Oxborrow, Flavius Streianu, Gra- co-authors Mark Baker and Anita Isalska for help and ham Meale, Jaap van Beelen, Jim Blackstone, ideas along the way. As always, my efforts here are Jim Van Leemput, Joaquín Tabales, John McK- dedicated to my partner, Michael Rothschild. ellar, John Roxburgh, Katarzyna Piriankov, Kay Martin, Marco Nawijn, Marinela Stere, Mayte Anita Isalska Penelas, Melanie Luangsay, Mihai Bursesc, Mike Big thanks to the following for fantastic tips: Black, Olav van der Stoep, Peter Phillips, Richard Denitsa Leshteva and ’s helpful tourism team; Mortel, Raquel Buades, Richard Snarsky, Sarah Hristo Giulev; Sophia Bozhkova and the VT tourism Foxwell, Scott Allsop, Sonya Jetcheva, Thomas & crew; Mila Todorova; Samokov TIC; Ivan Dzhamulov; Sona Hoisington, Tom Flannaghan and especially my insightful co-author Mark Baker. Thanks to my intrepid parents, who met me at Rila Monastery and gave me fresh eyes on this extraordi- WRITER THANKS nary place. To those who offered their time during my Mark Baker research in , including Andrea Rost, Sana First, thanks to my co-writers and editors at Lonely Nicolau, Cristina Cofaru, Cristiana Fica, Mark Tudose, Planet for their help in this project. A big thanks, Crina Prida, Colin Shaw, Karla Zimmerman and my too, to Lonely Planet readers and website users who fellow writer Steve Fallon. Love to Normal Matt, who sent in suggestions, complaints and compliments enhanced my time in Sibiu and cheered me through on previous editions. On the ground in , I’d the write-up. like to thank friends Florina Presadă, Ioana Lupea, Ana Raluca, Ruxandra Predescu, Dalia Tabacaru, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Ştefania Oprina, Crina Becheanu, Elena Loghin, Diana Podasca, Narcisa Suruianu, Mirela Petra, Lori Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Alexe, Paula Gusetu Nimigean, and her husband BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Costi. In Bulgaria, my gratitude goes out to Tatyana Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Spasova, Martina Ivanova Staneva-Antonova and Dani Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Nencheva, among many others. Cover photograph: Aerial view of Old Town, Brasov, Transylvania, Romania, Dziewul/Shutterstock © 495 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editor Brana Susan Paterson, Saralinda THIS BOOK Vladisavljevic Turner This 7th edition of Lonely Product Editor Vicky Smith Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Romania & Bulgaria Senior Cartographer David Alison Lyall guidebook was researched and Kemp Cover Researcher Naomi written by Mark Baker, Steve Book Designer Katherine Parker Fallon and Anita Isalska. The Marsh Thanks to Jenna Myers, Claire previous edition was written Andrew Naylor, Karyn Noble, Tracy by Mark Baker, Chris Deliso, Assisting Editors Bain, Imogen Bannister, Nigel Whitmey, Amanda Williamson Richard Waters and Richard Chin, Bruce Evans, Victoria Watkins. This guidebook was Harrison, Rosie Nicholson, produced by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 496

Index

ABBREVIATIONS aquariums Balkan Range, see Stara Bistriţa (R) 147-8 (B) – Bulgaria Central Eco-Tourism Planina Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 294, (R) – Romania Museum of the Banat (R) 32, 149-57 395-426, 9 Delta (R) 215 accommodation 149 accommodation 395 Constanţa Aquarium climate 149 climate 395 (R) 221 SYMBOLS food 149 food 395 1876 April Uprising 452 Arad (R) 162-5, 164 highlights 150, 150 highlights 396 Arbanasi (B) 375 history 151 history 397 A Arbore Monastery (R) travel seasons 149 travel seasons 395 204-5 accessible travel Bansko (B) 332-6, 333 Black Sea Coast (R) 32, archaeological sites, see Bulgaria 480 220-8, 221 also fortresses, Roman Bârgău Valley (R) 147 Romania 265 sites, ruins, tombs bars 274 accommodation 211 accommodation Archaeological Bârsana (R) 179-80 climate 211 Black Sea Coast (B) 400 Reserve (B) 364 bathrooms 480 food 211 Bulgaria 474-5 Sarmizegetusa Regia beaches highlights 212, 212 language 273-4, 489 (R) 135 Amphora Beach (R) 227 history 213 Romania 258-9 Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 9 travel seasons 211 activities, see also individual (B) 14, 434, 14 Bulgaria 286, 397 Black Sea Littoral (R) activities architecture Burgas (B) 399 220-8 Bulgaria 456-9 medieval (R) 24 Crush (R) 225 Blagoevgrad (B) 329-32 Romania 244-8 National Revival (B) Mamaia (R) 225 boat travel air travel 346, 385 Plaja de Carta (R) 227 Bulgaria 484 to/from Bulgaria 482-3 Saxon (R) 15, 104-6, 15 Primorsko (B) 408 to/from Romania 269 to/from Romania 266-7 wooden churches 176 safety 399 within Romania 269 within Bulgaria 484 wooden gateways 176 Sfântu Gheorghe Beach boat trips 407 within Romania 269 Arieşeni (R) 163 (R) 219 boating airports art centres, see cultural Sozopol (B) 404-5 Mamaia (R) 226 centres Bulgaria 482 Sulina Beach (R) 217 Sfântu Gheorghe (R) 219 art galleries, see museums Romania 266 Sunny Beach Sulina (R) 217 & galleries Alba Iulia (R) 129-32, 130 (Slânchev Bryag) 412 Tulcea (R) 215-16 arts Albena (B) 424 bears 248, 461 books Romania 249-51 Aleksander Nevski Cathedral beer Bulgaria 444 Bulgaria 462-5 (B) 302-3 Bulgaria 472 Romania 230, 233, 237, ATMs animals, see also individual Romania 256 238, 239, 242, 254-6 Bulgaria 478 species Belogradchik (B) 431-3 border crossings 267 Romania 262 Bulgaria 460 Belogradchik rock Bulgaria 482, 483 Apollonia Arts Festival (B) formations 432 Romania 267 290, 405 B Berbeşti (R) 175 Ukraine 175 April Uprising 452 Bachkovo Monastery (B) Bicaz Gorges (R) 197 Boris I 449 (R) 353 Biertan (R) 105 Borovets (B) 327-9 145-7 baggage 275 birdwatching Borşa (R) 182 Apuseni Nature Park (R) Baia Mare (R) 168-71, 161, 163 Bulgaria 458 Borşa Complex (R) 182 169 Burgas 401 Botiza (R) 180 Băile Felix (R) 161-2 Lake Srebârna (B) 440 Boyana (B) 317-18 Map Pages 000 Băile Tuşnad (R) 120 Romania 247-8 Bran (R) 93-4 Photo Pages 000 Balchik (B) 424-6, 425 Tulcea (R) 215 (R) 10, 293, 11 497 Braşov (R) 85-92, 86 budgeting scams 478, 487 Neamţ Citadel (R) 193 accommodation 89-90 Bulgaria 285 smoking 479 Oradea Fortress (R) 159 activities 88-9 Romania 23 telephone services 284, Peleş Castle (R) 77, 80 drinking 91 Bulgaria 279-493, 282-3 479-80 Pelişor (R) 80-1 entertainment 91 accessible travel 480 time 480 Poienari Citadel (R) 69 food 90-1 accommodation 474-5 tipping 478 Râşnov Fortress (R) 95 history 85 activities 288-90 tourist information 480 Royal Citadel (R) 200 INDEX nightlife 91 arts 462-5 tours 484 Fortress (B) shopping 91 ATMS 478 travel seasons 284, 284 362 sights 85, 87-8 books 444 travel to/from 267, 285, Sighişoara Citadel  B-C tourist information 91 482-4 (R) 99  budget 285 Summer Palace of travel to/from 91-2 cell phones 284 travel within 484-8 vacations 479 Queen Marie & Botani- travel within 92 children, travelling cal Gardens (B) 425 with 475 visas 284, 480-1 Breb (R) 177-8 Timișoara Fortress volunteering 481 breweries, see climate 284, 288-90, 284 (R) 153 weather 284, 288-90 also distilleries consulates 476 Fortress (B) weights & measures 479 Csiki Sör Brewery Tour credit cards 478 365-6, 366 (R) 120 culture 444-5 wildlife 459-61 cathedrals, see churches & World of Zagorka currency 284 wine 468-9 cathedrals (B) 391 customs regulations 475 work 481 caves 246 bridges discount cards 475-6 Burgas (B) 397-403, 398 Apuseni Nature Park Bridge of Lies (R) 111 drinks 471-2, 476 bus travel (R) 161 Danube Bridge (B) 435 economy 444-5 to/from Bulgaria 350, Bears Cave (R) 161 (R) 82-3, electricity 476 483 Daniel the Hermit’s Cave 84, 83 embassies 476 to/from Romania 267-8 (R) 206 (R) 31, 34-57, emergencies 285 within Bulgaria 484-5 Golubovitsa Cave (B) 40-1, 46, 8-9 356 etiquette 480 within Romania 269-70 accommodation 34, business hours Ice Cave (R) 161 49-50 events 288-90 Bulgaria 478 Cave (B) activities 47-8 exchange rates 285 Romania 263 429-30 climate 34 festivals 288-90 (B) 432 drinking 51-2 food 470-2 Meziad Cave (R) 161 entertainment 52-4 gay travellers 476 C Orlova Chuka Cave festivals & events 48 GLBTI travellers 476 Câmpulung Moldovenesc (B) 439 (R) 210 food 34, 50-1 health 476-7 Șinca Veche (R) 108 car travel highlights 36-7, 36-7 highlights 6-16, 6-7, 8-16 Smolyan (B) 356 language 277, 492 history 35 history 446-55 Trigrad Cave (B) 358 road distance chart itineraries 39 insurance 476-7 Uhlovitsa Cave (B) 356 (B) 486 nightlife 51-2 internet resources 285, Yagodina Cave (B) 358 477, 479 road distance chart shopping 54 (R) 271 Ceahlău National Park (R) itineraries 291-2, 291, 198-200, 199 sights 35, 38-9, 42-5, 47 road rules 270, 487 292 Ceauşescu, Elena 45, tourist information 54-5 to/from Bulgaria 483 language 284, 489-93 238-40 tours 48 to/from Romania 268 legal matters 477 Ceauşescu, Nicolae 45, travel seasons 34 lesbian travellers 476 within Bulgaria 485-7 238-40 travel to/from 55-7 media 479 within Romania 270 cell phones travel within 57 medical services 476-7 Carpathians (R) 15, 19, Bulgaria 284 Bucharest region 58-9, 59 mobile phones 284 15, 19 Romania 22, 264 Bucovina (R) 10, 32, 183-5, money 284 castles & 24 cemeteries 200-10, 207, 11 music 462-5 Alba Carolina Citadel Bellu Cemetery (R) accommodation 183 (R) 131 opening hours 478 44, 47 climate 183 Bánffy Castle (R) 146 politics 444-5 Ghencea Civil Cemetery food 183 Bran Castle (R) 10, (R) 45 people 466-7 highlights 184, 184 93, 11 Hungarian Cemetery phonecards 480 history 185 (R) 134 (R) 137-8 politics 444-5 monasteries 204-9, 207 Palace (R) 47 Jewish Cemetery, Iaşi population 445, 466-7 travel seasons 183 Deva Citadel (R) 132-3 (R) 188 postal services 479 Bucovina Monasteries (R) Făgăraş Citadel (R) 107 Jewish Cemetery, public holidays 479 Sighetu Marmaţiei 204-9, 207 Lăzarea Castle (R) 122 religion 467 (R) 172 Budeşti (R) 176-7 Mikó Castle (R) 120-1 498 cemeteries cont Church of Sveti Petar & Roman Catholic Church entertainment 225 Martyr-Heroes of the Pavel (B) 367 (R) 127 food 224 December 1989 Church of the Dominican Serbian Orthodox nightlife 224 Revolution Cemetery Monastery (R) 101 Church (R) 153 sights 220-3 (R) 47 Church of the Icon Sf Ioan Botezătorul tourist information 225 Merry Cemetery (R) 178 (R) 47 Church (R) 94 travel to/from 225

INDEX INDEX Sephardic Jewish Church of the Three St Dumitru’s Church Cemetery (R) 44 Hierarchs (R) 189 (R) 202 consulates, see embassies & consulates Sulina Cemetery (R) 218 Church of Vavedenie St Mary’s Evangelical Cotnari (R) 191 Central Mountains (B) 294, Presvetiya Bogoroditsi Church (R) 110-11 C-D 359-94 (B) 330 St Michael’s Church courses  305 accommodation 359 Church on the Hill (R) 137  climate 359 (R) 101 St Nicholas’ Cathedral cooking (R) 255 food 359 Creţulescu Church (R) 88 diving 405, 409 (R) 42 Stavropoleos Church woodcarving 378 highlights 360, 360 Evangelical Church (R) 38 Covasna (Hungary) 119 history 361 (R) 147 Sveta Marina Church travel seasons 359 Craiova (R) 70-3, 71 Fortified Church, (B) 342 credit cards 275 chalga 465 Biertan (R) 105 Sveta Nedelya Cathedral Bulgaria 478 Chepelare (B) 352-4 Fortified Church, (B) 298 Romania 262 children, travelling with Cisnădie (R) 116 Sveta Petka Bucharest (R) 48 Fortified Church, Samardzhiiska Church Crişana (R) 32, 149-51, 157-65 Bulgaria 475 Viscri (R) 106 (B) 298 accommodation 149 Romania 259 Fortress Church (R) 127 Sveta Church climate 149 Sofia (B) 312 Forty Martyrs Church (B) 303 food 149 Chiprovtsi (B) 430-1 (B) 367 Sveta Troitsa Church (B) 333 highlights 150, 150 churches & cathedrals, see Hărman Fortified Church also monasteries (R) 97 Sveti Georgi Rotunda history 151 (B) 299 Aleksander Nevski Hungarian Reformed cultural centres Cathedral (B) 302-3 Church (R) 137 Sveti Nikolai Russian ARCUB (R) 53 Church (B) 299 Bârsana Church (R) 179 Maramureş (R) 176, BârsanArt (R) 179 13, Sveti Sedmochislenitsi Black Church (R) 85 13 Fabrica de Pensule (R) Mirăuţi Church (R) 200 Church (B) 304 (B) 317 138-9 Moldavian Metropolitan Sveti Stefan Church Bulgaria 286 culture Cathedral (R) 188 (B) 413 Cathedral of Saint Bulgaria 444-5 Nativity Church (B) 375 Târgovişte Cathedral Vissarion (B) 356 (R) 65 Romania 230-1, 252-3 Nativity Memorial Cathedral of St John the currency Church (B) 390 Târgu Church (R) 65 Baptist (R) 62 Bulgaria 284, 478 Nativity of St John cinema, see films Cathedral of the Romania 22, 262 the Baptist Church Cisnădie (R) 116 Assumption of the (R) 196 city walls 112 Curtea de Argeş Virgin (B) 417, 279 (R) 68-70 New St George’s Church climate Chapel of Jesus (R) 38 customs regulations (R) 123 Bulgaria 284, 284 Old Princely Court Bulgaria 475 Romania 22, 22 Church of Rozhdestvo Church (R) 38 Romania 259 Bogorodichno (B) 325 Cluj-Napoca (R) 14, 136-43, Orthodox Cathedral cycling Church of Sveta 138, 14 (R) 127 Bulgaria 458-9, 484 (B) 342 accommodation 140 Orthodox Metropolitan language 492 Church of Sveti activities 139 Cathedral (R) 154 Romania 245, 269 Arhangeli Mihail drinking 141-2 (B) 377 Patriarchal Cathedral Varna (B) 419 (R) 43 entertainment 142 Church of Sveti festivals & events 139 Arhangeli Mikhail & Prejmer Fortified Gavril (B) 375 Church (R) 97 food 140-1 D dangers, see safety Church of Sveti Dimitâr Princely Church (R) 67 nightlife 141-2 (B) 367 Princely Court (R) 69 sights 136-9 Danube (B) 294 Church of Sveti Reformed Church tourist information 142 Danube Bridge 435 Konstantin & Elena (R) 154 travel to/from 142 (R) 13, 32, (B) 342 Roman Catholic communism 454 211-20, 213, 13 Cathed­ral, Oradea Constanţa (R) 220-5, accommodation 211 (R) 159 222 accommodation 223 climate 211 Roman Catholic food 211 Map Pages 000 Cathedral, Timișoara activities 223 highlights 212, Photo Pages 000 (R) 153 drinking 224 212 499 history 213 ethnic minorities Easter specialities 289, Chepelare (B) 353 travel seasons 211 Bulgaria 466-7 289 Etâr (B) 379 Danube River region (B) Romania 252-3 language 274, 490 Malîovitsa (B) 328 427-42, 428 etiquette mehanas 472 Mountains (B) 330 accommodation 427 Bulgaria 285, 480 rakia 472 Poiana Braşov (R) 94 climate 427 Romania 262 Romania 261 Prislop Pass (R) 182

food 427 events, see festivals & shopska 472 Rarău Massif (R) 209-10 INDEX highlights 428, 428 events football 53 Retezat Mountains history 429 exchange rates fortresses 24, see (R) 135 travel seasons 427 Bulgaria 285 also castles & palaces, Rodopi Mountains  D-H ruins Deva (R) 132-4, Romania 23 (B) 354

 133 Arad Fortress (R) 162 Devin (B) 357-8 Romania 244-5 Fortress disabilities, travellers with safety 245 F (B) 433 Stara Planina (B) 15, Bulgaria 480 Făgăraş (R) 107 Bulgaria 286 381, 15 Romania 265 Făgăraş Mountains (R) Fortress (B) Nature Park (B) discount cards 106-9, 107 439 318-19, 319 Bulgaria 475 ferry travel Kaleto Fortress (B) 432 Hisar (B) 383-5 Romania 259 Bulgaria 441 Roman Fortress of historic buildings distilleries, see also brew- Romania 216, 267 Sexaginta Prista Alexandru Ioan Cuza eries (B) 434 festivals & events University (R) 188 Enio Bonchev Rose Friendship Bridge 435 Apollonia Arts Festival Arad Town Hall (R) 162 Distillery (B) 388 (B) 290, 405 Banca Agricolă (R) 112 diving Festival of Medieval Arts Butchers’ Bastion Golden Sands (B) 423 & Crafts (R) 27, 102 G galleries, see museums & (R) 168 Varna (B) 420 George Enescu Music galleries Canon’s Corridor (R) Dracula 242-3, see Festival (R) 28, Gârda de Sus (R) 163 159 also Ţepeş, Vlad 48, 27 gardens, see parks & Casa Vlad Dracul Dragomirna Monastery Goat Milk Festival (B) gardens (R) 101 (R) 206 290 gay travellers Castelul de Lut Valea drinking Golden Grapes Festival Bulgaria 476 Zanelor (R) 108 language (B) 490 (B) 288 Romania 260 Citadel, Braşov (R) 88 language (R) 274 International Jazz Festival (B) 290 George Enescu Music Constanţa Casino drinks (R) 221 Festival (R) 28, 48, 27 beer 256 International Theatre Festival (R) 27 Gheorgheni (R) 122-3 County Council Building ţuică 255-6 (R) 127 Plovdiv Night of the Giuleşti (R) 175 rakia 472 Elie Wiesel Memorial Galleries (B) 290 GLBTI travellers wine 12, 67, 191, 256, House (R) 172 13 Rose Festival (B) 290 Bulgaria 476 driving, see car travel Former Ceauşescu Spirit of Burgas Festival Romania 260 Residence (R) 45 driving tours 207, 207 (B) 290 Golden Sands (B) 423 Hirscher House (R) 87 Dryanovo Monastery Transilvania , travel to/from (B) 376 Konstantsalieva House International Film 267 Festival (R) 27, 139 (B) 375 Untold Festival (R) 28, Matthias Corvinus House (R) 137 E 139, 27 H economy Palace of Parliament Varna Summer Hărman Fortified Church Bulgaria 444-5 International Music (R) 97 (R) 9, 35, 8-9, 25 Romania 230-1 Festival (B) 290, 420 health Peyo Yavorov House- Museum (B) 304 electricity Young Wine Parade Bulgaria 476-7 President’s Building Bulgaria 476 (B) 290 Romania 260-1 (B) 302 Romania 260 films hiking embassies & consulates Bulgaria 444 Princely Court Apuseni Mountains (R) Exposition (R) 195 Bulgaria 476 Romania 230, 243, 251 145-6 Romania 25, 25 Romania 260 fishing 215 Borovets (B) 327 Romanian Athenaeum emergencies folk culture Borşa Complex (R) 182 (R) 39, 27 Bulgaria 285 Bulgaria 462-5 Bucegi Mountains Scholars’ Stairway (R) 84 language 275, 490 Romania 24, 249-51 (R) 101 Bulgaria 287, 456-7 Romania 23 food Snagov Palace (R) 58 endangered species 461 Bulgaria 470-2, 477 Carpathians (R) 15, 15 Stephen’s Tower (R) 168 Etâr (B) 379-80 cheese 471 Ceahlău National Park Strada Sforii (R) 87 (R) 198 500 historic buildings cont K Melnik (B) 337-9 Ivanovo Rock Monastery Town Hall Tower (R) 158 Cape (B) 421 memorials, see monu- (B) 439 Water Tower (R) 74 Kalibash Villages (R) 98 ments & memorials Lopushanski Monastery Miercurea Ciuc (R) 120-2, (B) 431 historic sites Karlovo (B) 385-6, 387 121 Moldoviţa Monastery Ulitsa Gurko (B) 367 kayaking 399 mineral baths (R) 205 history Koprivshtitsa (B) 385

INDEX INDEX Bulgaria 384, 458 Monastery of St John the April Uprising 452 New (R) 200-1 Romania 247 Bulgaria 446-55 Neamţ Monastery communism 454 L mobile phones Ladislas, King 451 (R) 194 H- Greek 447-8 Bulgaria 284  Lake Srebârna (B) 440-1 Preobrazhenski M Macedonian 447-8 Romania 22, 264 Monastery (B) 374-5  language National Revival 451-2 (R) 32, 183-210 Prince Mihai Bulgaria 284, 489-93 Ottoman 450-1 accommodation 183 Monastery (R) 43 Romania 22, 252, 273-8 Roman 417, 447-8 climate 183 Putna Monastery (R) legal matters Romania 232-41 food 183 206 Bulgaria 477 Thracian 446-7 highlights 184, 184 Rila Monastery (B) 10, Romania 261-2 324-7, WWII 453-4 history 185 10 lesbian travellers Rozhen Monastery hitching travel seasons 183 Bulgaria 476 (B) 338 Bulgaria 487 Moldoviţa Monastery Romania 260 (R) 205 Schitul Dârvari (R) 45 Romania 270 GLBTI travellers monasteries, see Sihla Monastery (R) 193 safety 270, 487 Bulgaria 476 also churches & Sinaia Monastery (R) 81 holidays Romania 260 cathedrals Șinca Veche (R) 108 Bulgaria 479 literature Agapia Monastery Snagov Monastery Romania 263 Bulgaria 444 (R) 193 (R) 58 horse riding Romania 230 Aladzha Monastery Sokolski Monastery Bulgaria 459 (B) 423 (B) 379 local transport Romania 245 Antim Monastery (R) 43 Suceviţa Monastery Bulgaria 487-8 hot springs, see mineral Arbore Monastery (R) (R) 205 Romania 270, 272 baths 204-5 Troyan Monastery Huedin Microregion (R) Lovech (B) 380-2 Bachkovo Monastery (B) 383 144-5 luggage 275 (B) 353 Văratec Monastery Humor Monastery (R) Bărboi Monastery (R) 193-4 206 (R) 188 M Voroneţ Monastery Madara (B) 364-5 Bârsana Monastery (R) 204-5 (R) 179 money 275 I Măgura (R) 98 Basarbovo Rock Bulgaria 284, 475, 478-9 Iaşi (R) 185-93, 186-7 Malîovitsa (B) 328 Monastery (B) 438-9 Romania 262-3 accommodation Mamaia (R) 225-7 Bogdana Monastery monuments & memorials 189-90 maps 381, 477-8 (R) 208 drinking 190-1 Mara Valley (R) 175-8 Asenevtsi Monument Brâncoveanu Monastery (B) 367 entertainment 191-2 Maramureş (R) 13, 32, (R) 108 Founders of the food 190 166-82, 13 Bucovina (R) 10, 32, Bulgarian State nightlife 190-1 accommodation 166 204-9, 207, 11 Monument (B) 361-2 sights 185-9 climate 166 Cherepish Monastery Freedom Monument Ieud (R) 180 food 166 (B) 429 (B) 390 insurance highlights 167, 167 Chiprovtsi Monastery Piteşti Prison Memorial Bulgaria 476-7 history 168 (B) 431-42 (R) 67 Romania 260, 261 travel seasons 166 Curtea de Argeş Reconciliation Park Cathedral & International Theatre (R) 162 Marginea (R) 208 Monastery (R) 69 Festival (R) 27 Sofia Monument (B) 299 market 274 Dragalevtsi Monastery internet resources St John of Nepomuk & measures (B) 318 Virgin Mary Statue Bulgaria 285, 477, 479 Bulgaria 479 Dragomirna Monastery (R) 153 Romania 259, 261 Romania 264 (R) 206 Iza Valley (R) 178-81 Vasil Levski Memorial media Dryanovo Monastery (B) 304 Izvoare (R) 171 (B) 376 Bulgaria 479 Franciscan Monastery Romania 264 Banya Bashi (R) 121 medical services (B) 299 Golia Monastery (R) 187 Map Pages 000 Bulgaria 476-7 Humor Monastery (R) Photo Pages Romania 261 (B) 343 000 206 501 Eski Mosque (B) 391 Bucovina History George Enescu Museum Museum of Printing & Great Mahmudiye Museum (R) 201 (R) 43 Old Romanian Books Mosque (R) 221 Bucovinian Village Grigore Antipa Natural (R) 65-6 Tombul Mosque (B) 362 Museum (R) 200 History Museum Museum of Roses motorcycle travel Center for Contemporary (R) 43 (B) 386 Bulgaria 458-9, 483 Art (B) 345-6 Haáz Rezső Museum Museum of Socialist Art (R) 123 (B) 305 Romania 268 Central Eco-Tourism Mu- INDEX seum of the Danube Hadzhi Dimitâr Museum Museum of the 1989 within Romania 270 Delta (R) 215 (B) 393-4 Revolution (R) 151 mountain biking 245 City Art Gallery (B) 345 Hindlian House (B) 342 Museum of the History mountaineering, see also City Gallery of Fine Arts Historical & of Bucharest (R) 38  M rock climbing (B) 343 Ethnographical Museum of the Malîovitsa (B) 328 Clock Museum (R) 62 Museum (B) 334 Romanian Peasant Mt Tâmpa (R) 87 Clock Tower (R) 99, 101 Historical Museum (R) 44 Communist Consumers (B) 356 Museum of Wine (B) Bulgaria 467 Museum (R) 154 History & Archaeology 337 Romania 252-3 (R) 47 Museum (R) 215 Muzeul Național Secuiesc (R) 119 museums & galleries County Art Museum History Museum (R) 111 Aleksander Nevski Crypt (R) 168 Histria Archaeological National Art Museum, Bucharest (R) 39 (B) 303 County Museum (R) 147 Complex & Museum Angel Kânchev (R) 224 National Art Museum, Cucuteni Museum Cluj-Napoca (R) 137 House-Museum (R) 195 House Museum of Neofit (B) 377 Rilski (B) 334 National Exhibition of Cultural Center Thrakart Crafts & Arts (B) 383 Archaeological Museum, (B) 345 House Museum of Nikola Vaptsarov (B) 334 National Gallery Quadrat Burgas (B) 397 Culture Palace (R) 125-6 Archaeological Museum, Icon Gallery, Plovdiv 500 (B) 303-4 Darvas-La Roche House (B) 343 National History & Hisar (B) 384 (R) 157-8 Icon Gallery, Rila Archaeological Archaeological Museum, Daskalov House (B) 377 Plovdiv (B) 342 Monastery (B) 325 Museum (R) 220 Earth & Man Museum Museum National History Archaeological Museum, (B) 304 Sofia (B) 299 (R) 74 Museum (R) 38 Ecclesiastical & Archaeological Museum, Jewish History Museum National History Historical Museum (R) 44 Museum of Varna (B) 417 (B) 325 Jewish Museum (R) 189 Transylvania (R) 137 Archaeology & History Egg Museum (R) 206 Museum (R) 162 Kordopulov House National Military Etâr Ethnographic Open- (B) 337 Museum (R) 47 Art Collection Museum Air Museum (B) 379 (R) 43 Kulata Ethnological National Museum of Ethnographic & Folk Art Contemporary Art Art Museum, Braşov Complex (B) 387-8 Museum (R) 168 (R) 35 (R) 88 Maramureş Ethnographic Ethnographic Museum, National Museum of Art Museum, Craiova Museum (R) 172 Braşov (R) 88 Geology (R) 44 (R) 70-1 Memorial Museum Ethnographic Museum, National Museum of Art Museum, Piteşti to the Victims of Burgas (B) 398-9 History (B) 317-18 (R) 67 Communism & to the Ethnographic Museum, National Museum of Art Museum, Ploieşti Resistance (R) 173 Craiova (R) 71 Military History (B) (R) 62 Mihai Eminescu Ethnographic Museum of 305 ASTRA National Museum Museum of Literature Transylvania (R) 137 National Museum of Complex (R) 112 (R) 189 Ethnographic Museum, Military Barracks (R) 65 Natural History (B) Atanas Krastev House Târgu Mureş (R) 126-7 299, 302 (B) 341-2 Mirkovich House (B) 393 National Village Ethnographical Museum, Multimedia Visitors Balabanov House (B) Plovdiv (B) 342 Museum (R) 44 341 Centre (B) 367 Natural History Museum Ethnographical Museum, Museum of Folk Craft & Banat History Museum Sofia (B) 302 (B) 398 (R) 154 Applied Arts (B) 382 Natural Science Museum Exposition Monastery Museum of History and Banat Village Museum Farm (B) 325 (R) 71 (R) 154 Archaeology (R) 196 Natural Sciences First Romanian School Museum of Icons (B) Bansko Permanent Icon Museum (R) 88 Museum Complex Exhibition (B) 334 377 (R) 222 Folk Art & Ethnographic Museum of National Bran Village Museum Museum (R) 215 Naval History Museum (R) 93 Revival & Constituent (R) 221 Folk Art Museum (R) Assembly (B) 367 Braşov Historical 221 Nedkovich House Museum (R) 87 Museum of Oil (R) 62 Franz Binder Museum (B) 345 Brukenthal Palace Museum of Otets Paisii Neolithic Dwellings of World Ethnology Hilendarski (B) 334 (R) 111 (R) 112 Museum (B) 391 502 museums cont Village Museum, Sighetu Nikopolis-ad-Istrum (B) Peștera (R) 98 Nicolae Grigorescu Marmaţiei (R) 172 376 phonecards Museum (R) 64 Zambaccian Museum northern Bulgaria 294, Bulgaria 480 Palace of Culture (R) (R) 45 427-42, 428 Romania 264 186-7 Zlatyu Boyadjiev Gallery accommodation 427 Piatra Neamţ (R) 194- (B) 343 Parcul Etnografic climate 427 8, 195

INDEX INDEX Romulus Vuia (R) 138 Zosim Oancea Glass food 427 Pirin National Park (B) 16, Icons Museum Permanent Exhibition of highlights 428, 428 329, 330, 16, 287 Dimitar Kirov (B) 343 (R) 117 history 429 Piteşti (R) 66-8 Pharmaceutical music (M- travel seasons 427 planning (Bulgaria  Museum (R) 111 Bulgaria 462-5

P northern Transylvania (R) basics 284-5  Pharmacy History Romania 230, 250-1 136-48 budget 284-5 Collection (R) 137 mythology calender of events Planetarium (R) 222-3 Bulgaria 287 288-90 Princely Court (R) 65 Romania 242-3 O etiquette 285 Putna Museum (R) 206 Odorheiu Secuiesc (R) internet resources 285 Regional History 123-4 Museum (B) 343 N opening hours itineraries 291-2, 291, Regional Museum of national parks & reserves, Bulgaria 479 292 see also parks & History, Shumen Romania 263 regions 293-4 gardens, wildlife (B) 362 travel seasons 284, reserves Oradea (R) 157-61, 158 Salt Museum (B) 411-26 288-90 Apuseni Nature Park (R) Orthodox Easter (B) 289 planning (Romania) Sarafkina Kâshta (B) 161, 163 outdoor activities 366-7 basics 22-3 Blue Rocks Nature Park Bulgaria 456-9 Silversmith’s budgeting 22-3 (B) 393 Romania 244-8 House (R) 147 Breite Ancient Oak Tree calendar of events 26-8 Smolyan Art Reserve (R) 101 internet resources 23 Gallery (B) 356 Bulgaria 460 P itineraries 29-30, 29, 30 Sofia City Art Gallery painting regions 31-2 (B) 302 Ceahlău National Park (R) 198-200, 199 Bulgaria 462-3 safe travel 23 Sofia History Museum Romania 249 (B) 298 Danube Delta (R) 213-14 scams 23 Palace of Parliament (R) 9, State Art Museum Hăşmaş-Bicaz Gorges travel seasons 22, 26-8 35, 8-9, 25 (B) 367 National Park (R) 197 plants 461 palaces, see castles & Teleki-Bolyai Library Iron Gates National Park Ploieşti (R) 62-5, 63 (R) 74 palaces (R) 127 Plovdiv (B) 16, 293, 339-52, Păltiniş (R) 116-17 Theodor Aman Kaliakra 340, 344, 16 (B) 421 Pamporovo (B) 354-5 Museum (R) 42 accommodation 321, parks & gardens, see Theodor Pallady Piatra Craiului National 346-8 also national parks & Museum (R) 45 Park (R) 96 reserves climate 321 Timișoara Art Museum Pirin National Park 16, Alexandru Borza Botanic drinking 349-50 (R) 151, 153 329, 333, 16, 287 Gardens (R) 137 entertainment 350 Tryavna Museum School Romania 247 (B) events 346 of Painting (B) 377 Ropotamo Nature 304-5 festivals 346 Tsanko Lavrenov & Reserve (B) 407 Botanical Gardens food 321, 348-9 Mexican Art Rusenski Lom Nature (R) 187 Exhibitions (B) 343 Park (B) 438-40, 439 highlights 322, 322 Copou Park (R) 189 Union Museum (R) Strandzha Nature Park history 323, 339 188-9 (B) 410 Cişmigiu Garden (R) 43 nightlife 349-50 Vasil Levski Museum Vitosha Nature Park (B) Herăstrău Park (R) 45 shopping 350 (B) 380 318-20, 319 Maritime Park (Burgas) sights 341-3, 345-6 Veliko Târnovo Vrachanski Balkan (B) 397 tourist information 350-1 Archaeological Nature Park (B) 429 Primorski Park (B) 416 tours 343 Museum (B) 368 National Revival 451-2 Sofia (B) travel seasons 321 Velyan’s House (B) 302 nature parks, see national travel to/from 351-2 333-4 parks & reserves Sofia University travel within 352 Village Museum, Baia Nesebâr (B) 412-16, 414 Botanical Garden Mare (R) 168 (B) 304 Poiana Braşov (R) 94-5 newspapers Simeon Garden Poienile Izei (R) 180 Bulgaria 479 (B) 341 politics Romania 264 passports Bulgaria 444-5 Map Pages nightlife 25, see also 000 Bulgaria 480-1, 482 Romania 230-1 Photo Pages individual locations 000 Romania 266 (B) 411-12 503 population books 230, 233, 237, transport 22, 266-72 Sâmbăta (R) 107-8 Bulgaria 445, 466-7 238, 239, 242, 254-6 travellers with Săpânţa (R) 178 Romania 230-1, 252-3 budget 23 disabilities 265 Sat-Şugatag (R) 175-6 postal services business hours 263 travel seasons 22, 22 Saxon Land (R) 98-118, 99 Bulgaria 479 cell phones 22, 264 travel to/from 23, 266-9 scams Romania 263 children, travelling travel within 269-72 Bulgaria 478, 487

with 259 INDEX pottery 463 vacations 263 Romania 22 Prahova Valley (R) 77-85 climate 22, 26-8, 22 visas 22, 265 sculpture Praid (R) 124 consulates 260 weather 22, 26-8 Bulgaria 462-3 -Predeal (R) 83-5 credit cards 262 weights & measures Romania 249-50  P Prejmer Fortified Church culture 249-51 264 Seven Rila Lakes (B) 328  S (R) 97 currency 22 wildlife 244-8 Sfântu Gheorghe (R) 118- Preobrazhenski Monastery customs regulations work 265 20, 219-20 (B) 374-5 259 22, Shipka (B) 389-91 Primorsko (B) 408 discount cards 259 252, 273-8 shopping, see also Prislop Pass (R) 182 drinks 254-6 Roman sites individual locations public holidays economics 230-1 Hisar (B) 383 language 275-6, 490-1 Bulgaria 479 electricity 260 Nikopolis-ad-Istrum Shumen (B) 361-4, 362-3 (B) 376 Romania 256, 263 embassies 260 Sibiel (R) 117-18 Roman Amphitheatre public transport emergencies 23 Sibiu (R) 109-16, (B) 341 110 Bulgaria 487-8 etiquette 262 accommodation 112-13 Roman Odeon (B) 345 Romania 270, 272 exchange rates 23 activities 112 Roman Theatre, Stara Putna Monastery festivals & events 26-8 Zagora (B) 391 drinking 114 (R) 206 food 254-6, 261 Stadium of Philippopolis entertainment 114-15 gay travellers 260 (B) 342 events 112 R GLBTI travellers 260 Rose Festival (B) 289, festivals 112 rabies 476-7 health 260-1 289 food 113-14 Răchițele (R) 145 highlights 6-18, 6-7, roses 388 history 110 Rădăuţi (R) 208 8-16 Rozhen Monastery (B) nightlife 114 radio history 232-41 338 shopping 115 Bulgaria 479 holidays 263 ruins, see also fortresses, sights 110-12 Romania 264 insurance 260, 261 Roman sites, tombs tourist information 115 internet resources 261 Ancient Serdica Complex Rarău Massif (R) 209-10, travel to/from 115 (B) 298 209 itineraries 29-30, travel within 116 , Buzludzha Monument Răşinari (R) 116 29 30 Sighetu Marmaţiei (R) language 22, 252, 273-8 (B) 389-90 religion 172-5, 174 legal matters 261-2 Citadel, Odorheiu Bulgaria 286, 467 Secuiesc (R) 123 Sighişoara (R) 98-104, lesbian travellers 260 , religious art 286, 462 Citadel, Târgu Mureş 100 17 media 264 Romania 231 (R) 127 accommodation 102-3 medical services 261 reservations 273 Hisar Fortress (B) 380 activities 101 mobile phones 22, 264 Retezat Mountains (R) Histria (R) 224 drinking 103-4 money 22, 23, 262-3 134-6, 135 Medieval Fortress of events 101-2 Rila Monastery (B) 10, opening hours 263 Severin (R) 74 festivals 101-2 324-7, 10 passports 266 Roman Mosaic (R) 220 food 103-4 Rila Mountains (B) 323-9, people 252-3 Ruins of Eumolpias shopping 104 324 politics 230-1 (B) 342 sights 99, 101 Rila Village (B) 323-4 population 230-1 Ruse (B) 433-8, 436-7 tourist information 104 rock climbing postal services 263 tours 101 Bulgaria 287, 328, 457 public holidays 263 (B) 438-40, 439 travel to/from 104 Romania 246 safety 245 travel within 104 Rodopi Mountains (B) scams 22 Silistra (B) 441-2 352-8 smoking 264 S safety Sinaia (R) 77, 80-2, 80 Roman baths 417 telephone services 22, beaches 399 Sinemorets (B) 410-11 Romania 17-278, 263-4 20-1 hiking 245 skiing accessible travel 265 time 264 hitching 270, 487 Bansko (B) 334-5 accommodation 258-9 tipping 263 Romania 245 Borovets (B) 327 activities 26-8, 244-8 toilets 265 salt baths 399 Borşa Complex (R) 182 arts 249-51 tourist information 265 Salt Mine (R) 143 Bulgaria 286, 327, 457-8 ATMs 262 tours 269 504 skiing cont St Anastasia Island (B) Ţepeş, Vlad 58, 69, 235, within Bulgaria 488 Chepelare (B) 352-4 399 237, 242-3 within Romania 272 Malîovitsa (B) 328 Stalin, Joseph 89 thermal baths, see Transfăgărăşan Road (R) Pamporovo (B) 355 Stara Planina (B) 15, also mineral baths 16, 109, 16 Pirin Mountains (B) 381, 15 Strand Apollo (R) 161 Transilvania International 16, 16 Stara Zagora (B) 391-2 Strand Felix (R) 161 Film Festival (R)

INDEX INDEX Poiana Braşov (R) 94 Ştefan cel Mare (Stephen Varna (B) 417 27, 139 Predeal (R) 83 the Great) 233 Thracian ruins 14, 386, transport Romania 246-7 Stoker, Bram 147, 242-3 434, 14 Bulgaria 285

S- Vitosha Nature Park (B) (R) 200-3 tick-borne encephalitis language 276-7, 491-2  477 U 319-20, 319 Suceviţa Monastery (R) Romania 23, 266-72  205 time Sliven (B) 392-4, 393 Transrarău Hwy (R) 210 Sulina (R) 217-19 Bulgaria 480 smoking Transylvania (R) 31, 76- Sunny Beach (Slânchev language 275, 491 148, Bulgaria 479 78-9 Bryag) 412 Romania 264 accommodation 76 Romania 264 Surdeşti (R) 171 Timișoara (R) 151-7, climate 76 Smolyan (B) 355-7 152 Sveta Sofia Church (B) 303 accommodation 155 food 76 Snagov Lake (R) 58-9 Sveti Ivan (B) 405 activities 154 snowboarding highlights 78-9, 78-9 Sveti Konstantin (B) drinking 156 history 77 Bulgaria 286, 457-8 423-4 entertainment 156-7 travel seasons 76 Romania 246-7 events 154 travellers with disabilities Sofia (B) 295-320, 300-1 Bal Shem Tov Syna- festivals 154 Bulgaria 480 accommodation 296, gogue (R) 196 food 155-6 Romania 265 306-8 Choral Temple (R) 44 nightlife 156 travel seasons activities 305 Gah (R) 201 shopping 157 Bulgaria 284, climate 296 Great Synagogue, 284 drinking 310-11 Bucharest (R) 44 sights 151, 153-4 Romania 22, 22 entertainment 311-13 Great Synagogue, Iaşi tourist information 157 travel to/from festivals & events 306 (R) 188 tours 154 Bulgaria 285, 482-4 food 296, 308-10 Neolog Synagogue travel to/from 157 Romania 23, 266-9 tipping highlights 297, 297 (R) 162 travel within history 298 Orthodox Synagogue, Bulgaria 478 Bulgaria 484-8 Oradea (R) 158 itineraries 299 Romania 263 Romania 269-72 Orthodox Synagogue, nightlife 310-11 toilets trekking, see hiking Târgu Mureş (R) 127 shopping 313-14 Bulgaria 480 Troyan (B) 382-3 Ploieşti Synagogue Romania 265 Troyan Monastery (B) 383 sights 298-9, 302-5 (R) 62 tombs Tryavna (B) 377-9 tourist information 314-15 Sephardic Synagogue Ostrusha Tomb (B) 390 tours 305-6 (R) 172-3 Tsarevets Fortress (B) Thracian Tomb of travel seasons 296 (B) 365-6, 366 Kazanlâk (B) 386 travel to/from 315-16 298-9 Tsarevo (B) 409-10 Thracian Tomb of Svesh- travel within 316-17 Synagogue in the ţuică (R) 255-6 tari (B) 14, 434, 14 Sokolski Monastery (B) Fortress (R) 151 Tulcea (R) 214-17, 214 tourist information 379 Zion Neolog Synagogue (R) 143-4 Bulgaria 480 Southern Mountains (B) (R) 158-9 (R) 144 Romania 265 293, 321-358, 322 Székely Land (R) 118-29 Turkey, travel to/from accommodation 321 tourist trains 267, 350 Bansko (B) 334 climate 321 T food 321 Carpathian Forest Ţara Chioarului (R) 171-2 Steam Train (R) 181 U highlights 322, 322 Târgovişte (R) 65-6 Vaser Valley Forest Ukraine, travel to/from history 323 Târgu Jiu (R) 72 Railway (R) 181 175 travel seasons 321 Târgu Mureş (R) 125-9, tours Unesco World Heritage Sites southwest Transylvania 126 Bulgaria 484 (R) 129-36 Bucovina monasteries Târgu Neamţ (R) 193-4 Romania 269, 272 (R) 10, 32, 204-9, Sovata (R) 124-5 taxis traditional crafts 207, 11 Sozopol (B) 403-8, 404, Bulgaria 487 Bulgaria 462-5 Palace of Parliament (R) 287 Romania 272 Romania 250 9, 35, 8-9, 25 telephone services train travel Rila Monastery (B) Map Pages 000 Bulgaria 284, 479-80 to/from Bulgaria 483-4, 324-7 Photo Pages 000 Romania 22, 263-4 to/from Romania 268-9 Sighişoara (R) 98-101 505 Thracian Tomb of Veliko Târnovo (B) 12, 294, Voroneţ Monastery (R) wildlife watching Kazanlâk (B) 386 368-9, 12 204-5 Bulgaria 458, 459 Thracian Tomb of Svesh- accommodation 359, Vratsa (B) 429-30 Danube Delta (R) 13, 13 tari (B) 14, 434, 14 370-2 Romania 247-8 wooden churches, activities 369-70 wine Maramureş (R) 176 climate 359 W (R) 31, 60-75 Bulgaria 12, 468-9, 13

Untold Festival (R) 28, drinking 372-3 INDEX accommodation 60 Cotnari (R) 191 139, 27 entertainment 373 climate 60 Melnik (B) 337 events 370 food 60 Romania 67, 256

-festivals 370  U V highlights 61, 61 wineries 67, 255, 468-9 vacations food 359, 372  Z history 62 wolves 461 Bulgaria 479 highlights 360, 360 travel seasons 60 women in Romania 253 Romania 263 history 361, 365 water parks 413-15 women travellers 481 Vadu Izei (R) 178-9 nightlife 372-3 water sports 424, 458 woodcarving 378 Vama Veche (R) 227-8 shopping 373 weather wooden churches, Varna (B) 416-23, sights 365-8 418- Bulgaria 284, 288-90 Maramureş (R) 176 19, 279 tourist information 373 Romania 22, 26-8 wooden gateways, accommodation 420 travel seasons 359 Maramureş (R) 176 websites, see internet activities 417-20 travel to/from 373-4 resources work drinking & nightlife 422 travel within 374 weights & measures Bulgaria 481 entertainment 422 Vidin (B) 433 Bulgaria 479 Romania 265 festivals & events 420 vineyards, see wineries Romania 264 visas food 421-2 Western , travel to/ Y history 416 Bulgaria 284, 480-1 from 268 Yavorov, Peyo 306 Romania 22, 265 information 422 wildlife, see also individual Viscri (R) 106 species, animals sights 417 Vişeu de Sus 181-2 bears 248, 461 Z travel to/from 423 Vişeu Valley (R) 181-2 Bulgaria 459-61 Zărnesţi (R) 95-6 travel within 423 visual art pygmy cormorants 247 zoos Varna Summer Bulgaria 462-3 red-breasted geese 247 Cozla Zoological Park International Music (R) 196 Romania 249-51 wolves 461 Festival (B) 290, 420 Sofia Zoo (B) 312 Vitosha Nature Park (B) wildlife reserves Vaser Valley (R) 181-2 Târgovişte Zoo (R) 65 318-20, 319 Libearty Bear Sanctuary vegans 471 Zoo Park, Varna (B) 416 volunteering 481 (R) 96-7 vegetarians 471 506 NOTES 507 NOTES 508 NOTES 509 NOTES JUSTIN

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Mark Baker Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He mainly writes travel guides on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as several other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or too quirky for the guides. He also contributes to publications such as the Wall Street Journal and National Geographic Traveler. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. When he’s not travelling, these days he’s teaching Central European history and journalism at Anglo- American University in Prague or out riding his bike. He has a master’s degree in International Affairs from Columbia University in New York.

Steve Fallon A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown Univer- sity with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master’s degree in jour- nalism, his fascination with the ‘new’ Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel bookshop. Steve lived in for three years before moving to London in 1994. He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified Lon- don Blue Badge Tourist Guide.

Anita Isalska Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of plac- es in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance -be tween the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 7th edition – Jul 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 543 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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