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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 494 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro- duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Steve Fallon Mulțumesc foarte mult to those who provided Many thanks to the travellers who used the last assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way in edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Maramureş, Crişana and the Banat, including: Dan advice and interesting anecdotes: Carpov and Rada Pavel in Baia Mare; Ion Hotea, who Adrian Ineichen, Alex Harford, Andrew Coker, pulled me out of a ditch (literally) in Mănăsteria; and Ben Fugill, Charley Harris, Chiara Motta, Dimitar Duncan and Penny Ridgley in Breb. Thanks, too, to Vlaevsky, Felice Oxborrow, Flavius Streianu, Gra- co-authors Mark Baker and Anita Isalska for help and ham Meale, Jaap van Beelen, Jim Blackstone, ideas along the way. As always, my efforts here are Jim Van Leemput, Joaquín Tabales, John McK- dedicated to my partner, Michael Rothschild. ellar, John Roxburgh, Katarzyna Piriankov, Kay Martin, Marco Nawijn, Marinela Stere, Mayte Anita Isalska Penelas, Melanie Luangsay, Mihai Bursesc, Mike Big thanks to the following for fantastic Bulgaria tips: Black, Olav van der Stoep, Peter Phillips, Richard Denitsa Leshteva and Plovdiv’s helpful tourism team; Mortel, Raquel Buades, Richard Snarsky, Sarah Hristo Giulev; Sophia Bozhkova and the VT tourism Foxwell, Scott Allsop, Sonya Jetcheva, Thomas & crew; Mila Todorova; Samokov TIC; Ivan Dzhamulov; Sona Hoisington, Tom Flannaghan and especially my insightful co-author Mark Baker. Thanks to my intrepid parents, who met me at Rila Monastery and gave me fresh eyes on this extraordi- WRITER THANKS nary place. To those who offered their time during my Mark Baker research in Transylvania, including Andrea Rost, Sana First, thanks to my co-writers and editors at Lonely Nicolau, Cristina Cofaru, Cristiana Fica, Mark Tudose, Planet for their help in this project. A big thanks, Crina Prida, Colin Shaw, Karla Zimmerman and my too, to Lonely Planet readers and website users who fellow writer Steve Fallon. Love to Normal Matt, who sent in suggestions, complaints and compliments enhanced my time in Sibiu and cheered me through on previous editions. On the ground in Romania, I’d the write-up. like to thank friends Florina Presadă, Ioana Lupea, Ana Raluca, Ruxandra Predescu, Dalia Tabacaru, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Ştefania Oprina, Crina Becheanu, Elena Loghin, Diana Podasca, Narcisa Suruianu, Mirela Petra, Lori Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Alexe, Paula Gusetu Nimigean, and her husband BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Costi. In Bulgaria, my gratitude goes out to Tatyana Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Spasova, Martina Ivanova Staneva-Antonova and Dani Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Nencheva, among many others. Cover photograph: Aerial view of Old Town, Brasov, Transylvania, Romania, Dziewul/Shutterstock © 495 BEHIND THE SCENES Destination Editor Brana Susan Paterson, Saralinda THIS BOOK Vladisavljevic Turner This 7th edition of Lonely Product Editor Vicky Smith Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Romania & Bulgaria Senior Cartographer David Alison Lyall guidebook was researched and Kemp Cover Researcher Naomi written by Mark Baker, Steve Book Designer Katherine Parker Fallon and Anita Isalska. The Marsh Thanks to Jenna Myers, Claire previous edition was written Andrew Naylor, Karyn Noble, Tracy by Mark Baker, Chris Deliso, Assisting Editors Bain, Imogen Bannister, Nigel Whitmey, Amanda Williamson Richard Waters and Richard Chin, Bruce Evans, Victoria Watkins. This guidebook was Harrison, Rosie Nicholson, produced by the following: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 496 Index ABBREVIATIONS aquariums Balkan Range, see Stara Bistriţa (R) 147-8 (B) – Bulgaria Central Eco-Tourism Planina Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 294, (R) – Romania Museum of the Danube Banat (R) 32, 149-57 395-426, 9 Delta (R) 215 accommodation 149 accommodation 395 Constanţa Aquarium climate 149 climate 395 (R) 221 SYMBOLS food 149 food 395 1876 April Uprising 452 Arad (R) 162-5, 164 highlights 150, 150 highlights 396 Arbanasi (B) 375 history 151 history 397 A Arbore Monastery (R) travel seasons 149 travel seasons 395 204-5 accessible travel Bansko (B) 332-6, 333 Black Sea Coast (R) 32, archaeological sites, see Bulgaria 480 220-8, 221 also fortresses, Roman Bârgău Valley (R) 147 Romania 265 sites, ruins, tombs bars 274 accommodation 211 accommodation Madara Archaeological Bârsana (R) 179-80 climate 211 Black Sea Coast (B) 400 Reserve (B) 364 bathrooms 480 food 211 Bulgaria 474-5 Sarmizegetusa Regia beaches highlights 212, 212 language 273-4, 489 (R) 135 Amphora Beach (R) 227 history 213 Romania 258-9 Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 9 travel seasons 211 activities, see also individual (B) 14, 434, 14 Bulgaria 286, 397 Black Sea Littoral (R) activities architecture Burgas (B) 399 220-8 Bulgaria 456-9 medieval (R) 24 Crush (R) 225 Blagoevgrad (B) 329-32 Romania 244-8 National Revival (B) Mamaia (R) 225 boat travel air travel 346, 385 Plaja de Carta (R) 227 Bulgaria 484 to/from Bulgaria 482-3 Saxon (R) 15, 104-6, 15 Primorsko (B) 408 to/from Romania 269 to/from Romania 266-7 wooden churches 176 safety 399 within Romania 269 within Bulgaria 484 wooden gateways 176 Sfântu Gheorghe Beach boat trips 407 within Romania 269 Arieşeni (R) 163 (R) 219 boating airports art centres, see cultural Sozopol (B) 404-5 Mamaia (R) 226 centres Bulgaria 482 Sulina Beach (R) 217 Sfântu Gheorghe (R) 219 art galleries, see museums Romania 266 Sunny Beach Sulina (R) 217 & galleries Alba Iulia (R) 129-32, 130 (Slânchev Bryag) 412 Tulcea (R) 215-16 arts Albena (B) 424 bears 248, 461 books Romania 249-51 Aleksander Nevski Cathedral beer Bulgaria 444 Bulgaria 462-5 (B) 302-3 Bulgaria 472 Romania 230, 233, 237, ATMs animals, see also individual Romania 256 238, 239, 242, 254-6 Bulgaria 478 species Belogradchik (B) 431-3 border crossings 267 Romania 262 Bulgaria 460 Belogradchik rock Bulgaria 482, 483 Apollonia Arts Festival (B) formations 432 Romania 267 290, 405 B Berbeşti (R) 175 Ukraine 175 April Uprising 452 Bachkovo Monastery (B) Bicaz Gorges (R) 197 Boris I 449 Apuseni Mountains (R) 353 Biertan (R) 105 Borovets (B) 327-9 145-7 baggage 275 birdwatching Borşa (R) 182 Apuseni Nature Park (R) Baia Mare (R) 168-71, 161, 163 Bulgaria 458 Borşa Complex (R) 182 169 Burgas 401 Botiza (R) 180 Băile Felix (R) 161-2 Lake Srebârna (B) 440 Boyana (B) 317-18 Map Pages 000 Băile Tuşnad (R) 120 Romania 247-8 Bran (R) 93-4 Photo Pages 000 Balchik (B) 424-6, 425 Tulcea (R) 215 Bran Castle (R) 10, 293, 11 497 Braşov (R) 85-92, 86 budgeting scams 478, 487 Neamţ Citadel (R) 193 accommodation 89-90 Bulgaria 285 smoking 479 Oradea Fortress (R) 159 activities 88-9 Romania 23 telephone services 284, Peleş Castle (R) 77, 80 drinking 91 Bulgaria 279-493, 282-3 479-80 Pelişor Palace (R) 80-1 entertainment 91 accessible travel 480 time 480 Poienari Citadel (R) 69 food 90-1 accommodation 474-5 tipping 478 Râşnov Fortress (R) 95 history 85 activities 288-90 tourist information 480 Royal Citadel (R) 200 INDEX nightlife 91 arts 462-5 tours 484 Shumen Fortress (B) shopping 91 ATMS 478 travel seasons 284, 284 362 sights 85, 87-8 books 444 travel to/from 267, 285, Sighişoara Citadel B-C tourist information 91 482-4 (R) 99 budget 285 Summer Palace of travel to/from 91-2 cell phones 284 travel within 484-8 vacations 479 Queen Marie & Botani- travel within 92 children, travelling cal Gardens (B) 425 with 475 visas 284, 480-1 Breb (R) 177-8 Timișoara Fortress volunteering 481 breweries, see climate 284, 288-90, 284 (R) 153 weather 284, 288-90 also distilleries consulates 476 Tsarevets Fortress (B) weights & measures 479 Csiki Sör Brewery Tour credit cards 478 365-6, 366 (R) 120 culture 444-5 wildlife 459-61 cathedrals, see churches & World of Zagorka currency 284 wine 468-9 cathedrals (B) 391 customs regulations 475 work 481 caves 246 bridges discount cards 475-6 Burgas (B) 397-403, 398 Apuseni Nature Park Bridge of Lies (R) 111 drinks 471-2, 476 bus travel (R) 161 Danube Bridge (B) 435 economy 444-5 to/from Bulgaria 350, Bears Cave (R) 161 Bucegi Mountains (R) 82-3, electricity 476 483 Daniel the Hermit’s Cave 84, 83 embassies 476 to/from Romania 267-8 (R) 206 Bucharest (R) 31, 34-57, emergencies 285 within Bulgaria 484-5 Golubovitsa Cave (B) 40-1, 46, 8-9 356 etiquette 480 within Romania 269-70 accommodation 34, business hours Ice Cave (R) 161 49-50 events 288-90 Bulgaria 478 Ledenika Cave (B) activities 47-8 exchange rates 285 Romania 263 429-30 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