Sarah Holland Presents EASTERN DELIGHTS BY DEREK HOLLAND Copyright Published by Sarah Holland in November 2012 ISBN 978-1-909468-00-9 Copyright © Sarah Holland All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the copyright holder. i Eastern Delights Tudor to Georgian Buildings in Eastern England By Derek Holland ii Dedication This memorial edition is drawn from the research and writings of Inevitably, his passion for the buildings and history of England, my late father, Derek Holland. Derek was a historian and tutor and his vast knowledge of the subject, meant that he continued to who wrote, published work and lectured predominantly on build- research and write. The buildings of Eastern England became a ings, landscapes and history. He developed a passion for the build- multi-volumed work, expanded to cover a larger geographical area, ings of Eastern England, and was commissioned to write a volume a longer time period, and to encompass additional building types in a series of books about the buildings of England. Unfortu- such as castles and fortifications. nately, the series was never completed and the manuscript remained Following my father’s death, and the success of the digital version unpublished. of ‘A Yorkshire Town - The Making of Doncaster’, I decided that Many a family holiday saw us exploring the buildings and land- ‘Eastern Delights’ deserved a wider audience. This book is the scapes of Eastern England, whether it be Norfolk, Cambridgeshire original one that my father wrote and revised. It may be possible at or Lincolnshire. Never did my father’s research impinge upon the a future date to publish the expanded versions, but in the meantime excitement or fun of these holidays, it was seamlessly incorporated I hope you enjoy these ‘Eastern Delights’. and provided me with plenty of inspiration which I am now able to My thanks go to Louise Robinson, who transformed the original draw upon. manuscript into a digital format ensuring my father’s work lives on. At home, many hours were spent crafting the text into a detailed To introduce each chapter I have written a small piece which links and accessible account of the buildings and their history. Collec- my experiences of my father’s research with my current perspectives. tively, my mother, sister and myself contributed to this project, whether it be in discussions about where Eastern England covered, the physical typing process, accompanying my father on field trips, acting as sounding boards, or simply by being there. Sarah Holland November 2012. iii About... Derek Holland Sarah Holland Derek was a passionate historian who special- Sarah is a social and agricultural historian ised in buildings, landscapes and social his- who, like her father, has an infectious enthusi- tory. He was educated at schools in Doncaster asm for her work. She lectures at Sheffield and at the University of Nottingham. Upon Hallam University and for the WEA, as well qualification he began a career in adult educa- as undertaking bespoke educational work in tion, both as tutor and as an organising tutor the field of history and heritage. Her passion for the Workers’ Educational Association for history and heritage began as a child ex- (WEA) in South Yorkshire. He never tired of ploring the past on family holidays. She im- sharing his wealth of knowledge with other parts both knowledge and enjoyment when people, and inspiring them to explore the heri- she teaches, and relishes the challenge of tage on their doorstep and further afield. In bringing her research to a wider audience. In addition he encouraged several groups to re- her spare time she enjoys travelling, and has search and publish local history projects. recently combined this with giving papers as part of her PhD research. If you are interested in her work then follow her at sarahholland3012.wordpress.com iv A Selection of other Published Books and Articles by Derek Holland Warmsworth in the 18th Century: Population Change, Agriculture, and Derek Holland also edited several WEA publications - one of Quarrying in a Rural South Yorkshire Community (Doncaster, 1965) which has been recently re-published. "An Edlington Account Book of the Early 18th Century", in History in Laughton-en-le-Morthen (1st pub. 1969, revised 2012) South Yorkshire Historian, 2 (1973) If you are interested in purchasing a copy of the Laughton Bawtry and the Idle River Trade (2nd edn.; Doncaster, 1976) book (paperback) please contact me. "Made in Doncaster: Jackson's Cheswold Motor Car", in South Yorkshire Historian, 3 (1976) Some of these publications, and others by the author (includ- Changing Landscapes in South Yorkshire (Doncaster, 1980) ing works edited by), are available to read in the Doncaster "Local Communities in South Yorkshire: The Framework of Local Studies Library and Doncaster Archives. Society, 1750-1850", in South Yorkshire Historian, 4 (1980) “Jigsaws of Building History: Three Parish Churches in the It is hoped that further works by the author of this book will Lower Don Valley”, in B. Elliott (ed), Aspects of Doncaster: Dis- be digitised in the future. covering Local History 2 (Barnsley, 1999) “Bawtry: History in the Townscape”, in Aspects of Doncaster: If you are interested in receiving information about these Discovering Local History 2 (Barnsley, 1999) then you can follow my blog sarahhollad3012.wordpress.com “A Yorkshire Town - The Making of Doncaster”, eBook edi- and enquiries can be made to [email protected] tion September 2012 v Chapter 1 COLLEGES, SCHOOLS & ALMSHOUSES I have particularly fond memories of exploring the streets of Cambridge as a child as my father researched and wrote this chapter. The elegant facades and the courtyards beyond appeared magical to a young child. Of course these centres of scholarly excellence have taken on new meaning as I have embarked upon my own university studies, the latest being my PhD research. Whether a grand college or a small village school, the buildings discussed in this chapter had a profound impact on the landscape, as well as on the lives of those who entered through their doors. Photograph taken by Enid Holland, 1989 - Trinity College, Cambridge COLLEGES, SCHOOLS, & ALMSHOUSES Several projects illustrate the wealth and diversity of building work going on in early Tudor Cambridge, reflecting the benefits Cambridge Colleges: of peace and prosperity ushered in under Henry VII and Henry VIII. This period saw the completion in 1508-15, under master During the Middle Ages Cambridge was transformed from a mason John Wastell, of the great Perpendicular limestone busy little commercial centre - of some 500 households in chapel begun by Henry VI in 1446 at King's College. The great c1200 - into one of Europe's main educational centres. From vault planned c1480 was executed in 1512-15, as were the the University's foundation in the early 13th century, with a mi- side-chapel vaults, and the interior furnishings of the chapel are gration of scholars from Oxford in 1209 and from Paris in 1229, early Tudor work. The lofty vault, the light and space of the it attracted a long series of benefactors from kings, queens, no- building as a whole, the fantastic early Renaissance wooden bles, and clergy for the establishment of halls and colleges. screen of the early 1530s with its trumpeting angels, and the Sites in the old commercial centre of the 12th and 13th centu- contemporary choir stalls, together with a wonderful array of ries were gradually turned into college complexes, principally early 16th century stained glass, cannot fail to inspire visitors along the eastern bank of the river Cam. To the one college from generation to generation. Nowhere else in England can be founded in the 13th century were added five in the 14th century, seen such a fine display of woodwork and glass from the early six in the 15th century, six in the 16th century, and one in the 16th century. 18th century. Thus, the most prolific period of college founda- tion came between the 14th and 16th centuries, with a falling-off Jesus College was founded in 1497 by Bishop Alcock of Ely, af- during the 17th and 18th centuries. Between 1550 and 1750 ter Henry VII had permitted him to dissolve the small Benedic- only three new colleges were founded in Cambridge, all of them tine nunnery of St Radegund, on the edge of Cambridge. The in the second half of the 16th century. After the Elizabethan ex- college buildings are set well north of Jesus Lane, and are ap- pansion came stagnation and decline, and the numbers of stu- proached along a path leading down to the tall brick gateway of dents matriculating confirm this picture - 265 in 1600, 280 in c1500. To the left (west) of the gateway an early 16th century 1660, 190 in 1700, 150 in 1750, and 150 in 1800. brick range adjoins, and this was built as a grammar school. The facing north range of the outer court was built in the late 1630s and early 1640s. Immediately to the east lies Cloister Court, which is the nunnery cloister adapted and partly rebuilt to become college buildings. The nunnery church along the south 7 side of the cloister, became the college chapel, which was So the years 1550-1750 offered few opportunities for the build- mainly adapted by demolition of the nave aisles and choir ing of newly-founded colleges. Yet these years are among aisles. some of the most fruitful for explorers of Cambridge College ar- chitecture. Careful management of college estates in times of Lady Margaret Beaufort, Countess of Richmond and mother of agricultural prosperity, together with benefactions, yielded Henry VII, founded Christ's College in 1505, taking over the money to spend on new buildings, in response to physical dete- premises and lands of God's House, itself founded in 1442.