WineNOVEMBER 2015 Connoisseur magazine WINE & DINE Sparking Wine with Food | Calabria Wine Resort | Bulgarian Wine | Classy Catalan Cavas * 0LB# 3(8HLJ) 4L:L L+L !L GAL5L9 >L L EK<=6- ;,$IDL% CL L'L71 ?L.LL @"L &FL2/ 'LVFRYHUWKHKLGGHQJHPV RI7RNDMLQRXU6]HJL&HOODU 7DNHSDUWLQDQLQIRUPDWLYHWRXUDQG WDVWLQJIHDWXULQJDZDUGZLQQLQJZLQHV FUDIWHGIURPWUDGLWLRQDOJUDSHYDULHWLHV RIWKH7RNDMZLQHUHJLRQ A cellar tour and tasting experience in Central Europe’s largest underground cellar: Tokaj KereskedÆház Szegi Cellar 3981 Szegi, Hatalos hill E-mail: [email protected] Wine Connoisseur THNHaPUL Tokaj Flavourit Vinho Kereskedohaz Zrt. Verde 2013 Tokaji Kesoi Arany White 91 POINTS 94 POINTS TOP VALUE TOP VALUE Often referred to as the “Wine of Kings”, sweet Tokaji wines It’s never too late to enjoy a wonderful warm weather do seem to have that Midas touch of royalty in every sip. With style wine. Vinho Verde has an easy drinking style which the onslaught of sweet Moscato’s and Rieslings, we don’t is light, fresh, and fruity but with a slight effervescence normally hear of the Tokaji wines that have a real history of that turns your dinner into something festive! And with royal backbone since being served to Louis the XIV of France only 11% alcohol lets you have one more glass without back in 1703. Tokaji wines are from the northeastern part paying the price the next morning. Vinho Verde is not of Hungary and the wines seem to be as mysterious as the a grape variety but a region along the Atlantic coast in area itself! The grapes involved in this royal white blend are northern Portugal. It is a blend of local grapes which Furmint, Harslevelu, and Muscat Blanc. usually consists of Loureiro, Arinto, and Trajadura. Light golden in color with the princely nose of dried In the glass, this wine is straw colored with a pale apricot, orange blossom, mango, and spice! It is medium yellow rim. It has enticing aromas of citrus, Asian pear, to full in body with a velvety, almost syrupy mouth-feel. and green apple. Light to medium mouth-feel, crisp, Regal flavors of ripe apricot, lush pear, and sweet mandarin with a light effervescence. It has delicious flavors of ripe orange. On the second sip, more fresh fruit was pronounced pear, citrus, fresh apple, and a hint of honeydew. On the with hints of lychee and starfruit leading to a long, second sip, lemon lime flavors were pronounced with mouthwatering finish! This Tokaji is very elegant, sultry, and soft notes of apricot and peach pit on the finish. It is so smooth. This is definitely a dessert style wine so you can very refreshing and balanced. The fizzy quality gives this pair it with another dessert like Crème Brulee, Greek Yogurt wine a personality that is fun, festive, and quite sassy! Pair Panna Cotta with Honey-Glazed Apricots, Tropical Fruit with appetizers, a fresh salad, seafood, baked chicken, Salad, or mild cheeses. Or you can just sip this wonderful and mild to medium cheeses. Vinho Verde may be Tokaji on its own as dessert! You will definitely feel like considered a warm weather wine but you can pair it with royalty and yes, you deserve it! these foods any time of year! BY CSW RICK FILLMORE Contents 12 18 Bulgarian Wine is Back Classy Catalan Cavas Certainly one of the success stories of sparkling wines that are worthy winemaking behind the Iron Curtain. of sharing the same table as fine champagne. 15 17 How to Pair Sparkling FERRARI: winery was found- Wines with Food? ed in 1902 reasons why sparkling wines are per- fectly paired with main courses. 8 The Ceraudo Family’s Charming Wine Resort Coming Soon in January! 24 The Burgundy of WJOFTJOUSFNUP Napoleon Bonaparte Editor Rodney Martin [email protected] Grapic Designers prime designs & Picante Creative Inc. Mark Swift Gisela Swift contributing Editors Marjorie L Kyriopoulos contributing writers richard fillmore Chiara Giorleo robert smyth advertising sales [email protected] executive director, rodney martin [email protected] Wine Connoisseur magazine is publisher by: connoisseur publishing inc. stafford, va wcmags.com Fried sandwich with shrimp p.11 7 The Ceraudo Family’s Charming Wine Resort in CALABRIA Ceraudo is a well-known winery in Calabria region of fine Agriturismo dates Southern Italy. It is an organic winery since the beginning, back the XVII century, when its owner, Mr. Roberto Ceraudo, launched his dream: A vinyard on his excellent land. where you can forget the Year after year, he continues building a solid reputation, which also contributes to the rise in this world outside to discover emerging wine region that attracts some of the most the real local taste. important wine critics. The Calabria region is at the tip of the “boot” (as Italy By Chiara Giorleo is often called) and the Ceraudo winery is located the Ionian coast in the province of Crotone city. The wines are numerous and interesting: 8 “Quality products represent everything for a chef.” s NOBLEWHITESFROMINDIGENOUSGRAPES than once and, lately, I interviewed the two and/or Chardonnay sisters to discover even more about this s WONDERFULROSÏSFROMTHEINDIGENOUS resort “behind the scenes.” red grape, “Gaglioppo” (only one Susy is the oldest of the two daughters. matures in French oak) She studied Hotel Management in London and worked in Milano at the Trussardi’s s REDSFROMTHEh'AGLIOPPOvONLYONE restaurant (a notorious fashion brand). matures in French oak) Being back in Calabria is a challenge for s !REDWINEFROMABLENDOF'AGLIOPPO her because the cultural environment is and Cabernet Sauvignon that matures completely different. A sunny person, she in wood also manages, with her great taste, special s !DELICATEEXTRAVIRGINOLIVEOIL events for the resort. Caterina began working in the kitchen s !RICH DESSERTWINE FORFUNIN BUTTHIShGAMEvBECAME But Ceraudo is not only a vineyard. her passion, so she decided to study with Roberto’s son and daughters have joined one of the most important Italian chefs, his project. His son, Giuseppe, is directly Niko Romito, learning to respect quality involved in the production and one of products and traditions above all—the same his daughters, Susy, deals with export, principles her father, Roberto, taught her. marketing and hospitality. His other According to Caterina, “Quality products daughter, Caterina, is the chef of their represent everything for a chef.” Today, award winning, Michelin-starred restaurant! she is often involved in various events and So, Ceraudo is also a wine resort cooking shows all over Italy, a good way to called “Dattilo,” with 6 mini apartments, a learn new things. But, when she goes out, swimming pool surrounded by green, and she realizes how lucky she is to live in a rural a fine restaurant! I have been there more area that is so rich and excellent. food to bring out the freshness and elegance of Chardonnay. The very low sugar content perfectly cleanses your palette! A lovely “Extra brut” version represents them well. LETRARI: This medium-sized company (160.000 bottle/year, only 60.000 of Trento DOC sparkling wines) deserves much attention. The wines are almost perfect: elegant, balanced, full. The grapes’ perfect ripeness is reflected the glass. “Quore” demonstrates the potential of a fresh Chardonnay balanced with smoothness and fruit. The Reserve 976 is an exiting one—a complex wine with honey and apple juice aromas that are charming and long lasting. CAVIT: This is a big company with a total BALTER: This is a wonderful location for private production of several millions of bottles a year— gatherings. Going up the tower, it is possible to about 500.000 of which are “Altemasi” Trento DOC admire all of their vineyards and discover the high sparkling wines. These wines are often rewarded by density of vines, which predicts the wine’s quality. some of the most important Italian guides. Their They are delicate and immediate. The presence wines express the territory and are perfect when of Pinot Noir is higher, reaching the 20% in their paired with food, thanks to their acidity. Reserve. Ceraudo is also a wine resort called “Dattilo,” with 6 mini apartments, a swimming pool surrounded by green, and a fine restaurant! I asked each of the daughters the same CATERINA: Hospitality means making questions individually and, amazingly, their answers someone else feeling good from the moment you were the same! shake hands. Anyone who comes here has chosen us and, especially at the restaurant, they rely on the Is it better to run a family business than to work for chef, trusting her ability to transform raw products someone else? into a meal! SUSY: I wont be able to work for others anymore. Here, we live in a genuine environment where everyone does whatever is necessary! CATERINA: Working with our family means we all have the same goals, even if each of us has our own role. When needed, any one of us is available to do something without being asked. Do you argue from time to time? SUSY: Of course, we all argue from time to time! (smiling). But we can seriously count on each other! CATERINA: Absolutely. We sisters argue regularly! (smiling too). I know Susy does the “dirty” job. She is the intermediary between the kitchen and the customer. We often compromise with each other, but without changing our own personality! What does hospitality mean for you? SUSY: Open your arms to people! Most of our customers come here from the city, for example, Northern Europe, looking for peace and simplicity. Pretentiousness is useless! The resort was born at the beginning of the SANDTHERESTAURANTCOMPETEDTHEPROJECTLATER on. Here, you can choose “a la carte” or pick something from the tasting menu that pairs ideally with their wonderful wines. Each course is a perfect balance between what grows on this rich terrain and innovation! Caterina is proud of her recipes because her first critics are Susy and her father.