CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN 2018

Sofi a, December 2017 Tzveta Tanovska, author © 2017 Katia Iontcheva, author © 2017

Yassen Panov, design © 2017 Katia Iontcheva, translation to English © 2017 Elena Neykova, English language translation consulting Pavlina Sivova, Bulgarian proofreading

“Catalogue of ” issued by “Ka&Ta”. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in parts without permission in writing from the authors. All rights reserved. OF BULGARIAN Published by “KA&TA” Ltd © 2017 WINE To contact the authors, please, use the following e-mail: [email protected] ISSN 1314-7331 2018

TZVETA TANOVSKA KATIA IONTCHEVA iv CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION v

Our 5 star Maryan Maryan 2015 barrel fermented Ivan Alexander Grande Cuvee 2014 Alexandra Estate Medi Valley Winery Alexandra Estate Reserve 2015 Incanto 2016 Angel’s Estate Minkov Brothers Gold Stallion 2013 Tree 2013 Stallion 2012 Enoteca 2013 and Deneb 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Enoteca 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Gold Rossidi Vera Terra 2015 Chardonnay Rossidi 2015 Rubin Bratanov Winery Ruse Wine House Syrah Special Barrel 2013 Levent Grand Selection 2016 Chardonnay "33" 2013 Levent Grand Selection 2016 rosé Castra Rubra Winery Rumelia Wine Cellar Nimbus Premium 2013 Erelia Limited Edition 2013 Chateau Burgozone Rumelia Reserve 2014 Iris Creation 2014 Egiodola, Marselan, Salla Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah Salla Estate 2015 Cabernet Franc Iris Creation 2015 Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Santa Sarah Wine Estate and Viognier Santa Sarah Privat A Good Year 2011 Collection Phillipe 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Damianitza Winery Seven Generations No Man's Land Kometa 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Damianitza Syrah 2015 Cabernet Franc 2013 Domaine Boyar 2012 Solitaire 2013 Merlot Sintica Winery Domaine Boyar Platinum 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Sinti Reserve 2013 Dragomir Winery Estate Terra Tangra Dragomir Reserve 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot Roto 2012 Cepage 2016 rosé Tohun Winery Edoardo Miroglio Tohun 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot Soli Invicto 2012 Uva Nestum Elenovo 2015 Chardonnay Uva Nestum 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot Elenovo 2013 Mavrud Villa Yustina Four Friends Winery Special Reserve 2012 Zitara 2015 Mourvedre Monogram 2016 Ivo Varbanov Vinex Preslav Emperor 2013 Rubaiyat 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, The Firebird 2013 Merlot and Syrah Katarzyna Estate Yamantiev’s Winery Chopin Ballade 2015 Marble Land 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah Encore Syrah 2015 Yamantiev’s Grand Reserve 2015 Syrah Logodaj Winery Zelanos Winery Hypnose Reserve 2012 Z Zelanos Winery 2015 Chardonnay Incantesimo 2013 Z Zelanos Winery 2015 Pinot Noir vi CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION vii

Contents Foreword

I am a wine amateur, I will never have the palate of Louis Our 5 star wines ...... iv de Funès in the "The Wing or the Thigh” (L'aile ou la cuisse) or the abundant knowledge of a wine expert. I have always Foreword ...... vii been proud to be a member of the spirits drinking popula- tion, but suddenly, about a decade ago, a new, infi nite world Alphabetical index of the ...... viii emerged before my eyes. The world of wine! Since then, I have A Note from the Authors ...... x been trying to explore it with an insatiable thirst not only for knowledge but also for the satisfaction of my exasperated The Team behind this Edition: ...... xi Epicurean instincts. This endeavour in Bulgaria is impossible without the attractive and comprehensive guide of Tzveta Wine in the Smartphone...... xiv Tanovska and Katia Iontcheva. I would easily admit that for the last fi ve years when at a wine fair, I look for Tzveta and The Wine Shop ...... xvi wait for her to take out the BOOK from her bag. Then I read My Wine Soul ...... xviii it at once, and throughout the following year I re-open it again to check on something or to see if our opinions about a 10 Spirits of the World Worth Tasting ...... xxii certain wine are the same. Certainly, this guidebook does not pretend to describe in full detail everything that can be found About Movies and Wine ...... xxv on the Bulgarian wine market that is fi lled with enthusiasm and love, but it gives you enough information so you can fi nd Glossary of some terms used to describe wines ...... xxviii everything you need. Bulgarian wine is still underestimated at pretentious Bulgarian restaurants, that are ready to introduce How to Use KA&TA Bulgarian Wine 2018? ...... xxxi you to everything from the Old and the New World, and the guide could certainly change that. Let it be that change as wine producers in Bulgaria deserve it not only because of the medals they are constantly winning at prestigious wine exhi- bitions but because they put a great deal of eff ort not just to survive but also to be modern, innovative and up-to-date with wine trends and even set them fi rst. They deserve respect, recognition and high sales, and this is one of the instruments to achieve that. An invaluable tool that off ers even laymen like me all the necessary information. So let's raise our glasses for Tzveta, Katia and all of those who made it possible to hold in our hands the Bulgarian wine guide for the sixth year in a row! Cheers!

Kamen Alipiev viii CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION ix

Alphabetical index of the wineries N Tohun Winery ...... 95 Neragora Winery ...... 67 Tsarev Brod Winery ...... 96 New Bloom Winery ...... 68 А E Nisovo Wine Cellar ...... 69 U Afuzov ...... 2 Edoardo Miroglio ...... 38 Novoselska Gamza ...... 70 Uva Nestrum ...... 97 Alexandra Estate ...... 2 Eolis Estate ...... 41 V Angel’s Estate ...... 4 Euxinograd Winery ...... 41 O Opreff Wine Cellar ...... 70 Varna Winery ...... 98 B F Orbelia Winery ...... 70 Via Verde ...... 99 Baklarovi Winery ...... 6 Four Friends Winery ...... 42 Orbelus ...... 72 Vidinska Gamza ...... 100 Balar ...... 6 Oriahovitza Winery ...... 72 Villa Lyubimets ...... 101 G Villa Melnik Wine Cellar ..101 Belogradetz Winery ...... 7 Georgievi Bros. – Osmar Winery ...... 73 Bendida Winery ...... 7 Villa Terres Winery ...... 102 Winemakery club ...... 43 P Villa Vinifera Wine Cellar .103 Bessa Valley Winery ...... 7 Gulbanis Wine ...... 43 Better Half ...... 8 Pamidovo Wine Cellar ...... 73 Villa Yambol ...... 104 Black Sea Gold ...... 9 H Pavlovich winery ...... 73 Villa Yustina ...... 105 Blagovi Winery ...... 11 Hotul Bunar ...... 44 Prisoe Wine Cellar ...... 74 Vinal ...... 107 Pulden Wine Cellar ...... 74 Vinex Preslav ...... 107 Bononia Estate ...... 11 I Vinex Slavyantsi ...... 108 Borovitza Winery ...... 12 Ivo Varbanov ...... 44 R Vini – Boshkilov ...... 108 Boyar ...... 13 Rasin Winery ...... 75 K Vinogradez Wine Bratanov Winery ...... 13 Rossidi ...... 75 House ...... 108 Bratya Daskalovi Winery ... 15 Kamenki ...... 45 Ruse Wine House ...... 76 Kapatovo ...... 45 Vinprom Alvina ...... 109 Brestovitsa Winery ...... 15 Ruevit Estate ...... 77 Vinprom Hebros ...... 109 Karabunar Cellar ...... 45 Rumelia Wine Cellar ...... 78 C Katarzyna Estate ...... 47 Vinprom Karnobat...... 109 Rupel ...... 80 Vinprom Lyaskovets ...... 110 Castra Rubra Winery ...... 16 Kaynardzha Winery ...... 51 Ruptsi Winery ...... 81 Chateau Botevo...... 18 Khan Krum Wine Cellar ...... 51 Vinprom Rousse ...... 110 Chateau Burgozone ...... 18 Kiossev Winery ...... 52 S Vinprom Sandanski / ...... 110 Chateau Copsa ...... 20 Korten Winery ...... 52 Salla Estate ...... 81 Krassimira Kostova – Mira ...... 110 Chateau Danubia ...... 21 Kozya Gramada ...... 53 Santa Maria ...... 83 Santa Sarah Wine Estate ...83 Vinprom Svishtov ...... 111 Chateau des Bergers ...... 22 Vinprom Taskov ...... 112 Chateau de Val ...... 22 L Seven Generations Chateau Kolarovo ...... 23 Legend Estate ...... 53 Winery ...... 84 Vinzavod .....112 Chateau Polihronov ...... 24 Libera Estate ...... 53 Sintica Winery ...... 85 W Chateau Sungurlare ...... 24 Logodaj Winery ...... 54 Slavovitsa Winery ...... 86 Wine Cellar Manastira .....114 Chateau Tipchenitsa ...... 25 Lopoushna Winery ...... 56 Sopot Winery ...... 86 Wine project AK ...... 115 Chateau Trendafi loff ...... 25 Loviko Lozari ...... 56 Spiritus Sanctus ...... 87 Wine project Chateau Windy Hills ...... 25 Lozev Wine ...... 56 Stambolovo Winery ...... 88 Albena Simeonova ...... 115 Concerto Winery ...... 25 LVK Vinprom Targovishte . 56 Starata Izba – Parvenetz ...88 Wine project Enosiasti .....115 Staro Oryahovo Winery .... 88 Wine project D M Starosel Winery ...... 89 Maria Hristeva ...... 116 Magura Winery ...... 57 Damianitza Winery ...... 26 Stema – Starossel ...... 89 Wine project Melvino ...... 116 Damyanov, Family Malkata Zvezda ...... 57 Strandja – Chateau Winery & ...... 28 Manolev winery ...... 58 Rossenovo ...... 89 Y Darobas Winery ...... 29 Marash Winery ...... 59 Stratsin winery ...... 90 Yalovo winery ...... 116 Deuce Winery ...... 30 Marvin Winery ...... 60 Sundial Winery ...... 90 Yamantiev’s Winery ...... 117 Dives Estate ...... 30 Maryan Winery ...... 60 Djiro-Trade ...... 31 Medi Valley Winery ...... 62 T Z Domain Menada ...... 31 Mezek Winery ...... 63 Terra Tangra ...... 91 Zagreus Winery ...... 119 Domain Trifonoff Winery... 33 Midalidare Estate ...... 64 Thracian legends ...... 93 Zelanos Winery ...... 120 Thracian wine/ Domaine Boyar ...... 33 Minkov Brothers Zlaten Rozhen ...... 121 Wine Cellar ...... 65 Villa Bassarea ...... 93 Dos Alamos ...... 36 Todoroff Wine Cellar ...... 94 Dragomir Winery Estate .... 37 Mizia Winery ...... 67 x CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xi

A Note from the Authors The Team behind this Edition:

If you are holding this book, you must also be infected by the Tzveta Tanovska has a Master’s virus of love for wine. Whether you are only interested in wine degree in Economics. Wine is her tasting or you would like to know what happens in the cellar hobby and her passion. She has at- or at the , we will be happy to be of some assistance. tended many wine exhibitions and Although the profession of the winemaker is the same, the masterclasses; she keeps up with care for the vineyard, the vine and the are similar, the all Bulgarian and international wine equipment and the technology used in the cellar do not diff er publications. She is a member of the - each winery comes with its own experience, ideas and tradi- jury in various wine competitions tions which make wine such a diff erent product. and has visited wine cellars in many wine regions around the world. She In this edition again, we remain true to our principles: is the spirit of the tastings!

Equal treatment of the cellars - we approach each cellar with the same diligence and responsibility; Katia Iontcheva has a Master’s de- Impartiality - the assessment of the wines is based on the gree in Economics and in . experience, knowledge and taste of the tasting team, regard- She holds a WSET Advanced Certifi - less of the name, size and history of the wine cellar. cate. Her entire professional career is related to wine, beginning with her Comprehensiveness - we have endeavored to cover all cel- work in the largest Bulgarian wine lars and their wines on the market. producing entity at the time. She is If your interest and curiosity do not end with the liquid in the the fi rst importer of South African glass, if you are interested in geography, climate, traditions, wines to Bulgaria. Katia has partici- we recommend that you visit some wineries, talk to the wine- pated in many international wine makers and … taste some wines! exhibitions and masterclasses and is a member of the jury of prestigious wine competitions. She is the sense Tzveta Tanovska Katia Iontcheva in the tastings! xii CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xiii

With appreciation to our friends who spend their time with Emanouil Ratchev is a chemical engineer. us tasting the wines with passion and knowledge: He has attended a number of courses on wine and masterclasses with Bulgarian Borjana Ellinger graduated Banking and foreign experts. He is a founder and in Vienna and parallel to her job as owner of the Vinissimo wine brand and a Private Banker, she has promoted has visited wine-cellars in various wine Bulgarian wine in Austria. In the last 20 regions around the world. He is the strict years Borjana has become a partner in look at the tastings! a wine shop, she has organised tastings and wine tours. She is our helper from abroad! Georgi Georgiev has a Master’s degree in Economics. After spending some time wondering at fi nancial organizations, Desislav Zvancharov graduated the he decided to be part of one of the National Academy for Theatre and most successful wine investments in the Film Arts, Sofi a. His love for wine is the country. For the last 15 years and more he reason to turn to wine tourism and has been professionally related to wine restaurant management, fi elds in which entirely. He tries to look for balance and he has extensive experience. Desislav enjoy it. The memory in the tastings! attended specialized courses by Bulgarian and foreign experts. He has knowledge on many wine regions across the world but Maria Ratcheva has Master’s degrees in concentrates his eff orts on supporting Bulgarian wine making chemical engineering and in Ecology. She and its competitive powers. He is a wine consultant for many has attended several courses and mas- restaurants across the country. He is the emotion of the tast- terclasses on wine. Maria has visited wine ings! cellars in various wine regions around the world. She is the nose of the tastings!ree Dimitar Koritarov is an engineer, he lives in Ecology of Wine Production. She is the and works in . He knows most of nose of the tastings! the Bulgarian cellars, collects Bulgarian and foreign wines. He has visited many wineries and wine exhibitions both in Yassen Panov is an artist. His interest in Bulgaria and around the world. He hold wine began thirty years ago. For several a diploma for having graduated a mas- years Yassen has been an art director for terclass by the Sommelier Association in Bacchus Magazine. He is the colour in the the US. It is a pleasure tasting with him! tastings!

Elissaveta Zaharieva is the fi rst Bulgarian with a Doctor’s degree in Wine Market- ing and she holds a WSET Advanced Cer- tifi cate. She wrote publications for many Bulgarian and international magazines. Elissaveta is a jury member in presti- gious international wine competitions. She is the language of the tastings! xiv CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xv

Wine in the Smartphone and match it with food according to personal preferences. Al- though the idea for a virtual wine assistant is appealing, some In the decade when everything has its digital alternative, of the apps are developed to serve specifi c countries. wine is not an exception. The knowledge and interest towards Stepping in the shoes of a winemaker is possible with apps the world of wine increases and information becomes more like Ferm Calc and Wine Making Log, which lead you step by accessible due to digital technology. The Internet has no step in the process. Even if you are an absolute borders – sites and blogs of magazines such as Wine Enthusi- beginner, they help you stay hands on and in control through- ast, and gurus like Jancis Robinson, Tim Atkin, Jamie out the complete winemaking process. Goode and other infl uencers in the US, France, Australia and If you are health-oriented and want to monitor your wine Italy are followed by millions. The content is easily accessible consumption, there is a wide choice of personal health appli- and if you aim to broaden your wine knowledge, you certainly cations. AlcoDroid is developed to keep a diary of your wine are in the right spot. And if you are on the advanced level, consumption habits. These applications are useful for people things get even more interesting and you can debate on on a diet that calls for a cut in alcohol consumption. various hot topics: the future development of Collio region, The applications with educational and tourist profi le that pro- how the inoculation with cultured yeasts infl uences , to mote the wines of diff erent countries or regions are particu- name a few. larly popular. It’s worth checking the publisher because many The wine applications are another development that off ers are developed by professional bodies and off er in-depth extensive information in convenient format and they grew understanding as well as impartial opinion. Their benefi t is to become indispensable part of the lives of wine lovers and that they replace the bulky wine publications, and save us professionals. They are content-based around diff erent topics, space while travelling. They are particularly useful if you need starting with the most practical usages and covering up to a quick reference and comprehensive information on the Eu- the fun part of the wine world with applications integrated ropean countries with complicated appellation systems such with design functionalities. One thing is certain – in a world as France and Germany. without borders to travel, shopping and learning, the digital If we also take into account the narrowly specialised applica- tools for Android and iOS have unrivalled advantages. The tions: ones that off er information on wine events, help in wine apps can help you in many ways. passing professional exams or serve the business, the list will If you don’t want to risk by ordering an unfamiliar wine in a be even more extensive. restaurant or shop, then you can take advantage of applica- tions that search information in large databases to help you Elissaveta Zaharieva make the right purchase. These applications use algorithms to scan wine labels and retrieve opinions and rankings, based on your preference and the preferences of your circle of friends, other wine enthusiasts or professionals. Applications such as Cellar Tracker, Vivino, Delectable and Drync serve as a library that stores entries with your tasting notes and wine cellar. If you aim to track a particular wine or fi nd it on the best possible price in Europe, Asia, the Americas or elsewhere, Wine Searcher is the right app for you. It checks databases with millions of wines, varying from everyday ones to rare . Wine Searcher fi nds results even when you have very demanding criteria (e.g. an old or an iconic wine). The added value of this type of applications is that they also provide information on regions, styles, varieties and news, which makes them encyclopedic in coverage. The virtual Wine Picker and Hello Vino combine archives and educational functions in one. They are devel- oped to help you make the right choice from the wine list xvi CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xvii

The Wine Shop There you will fi nd out who produces this wine, what the vintage is, what varieties are in it and, what’s more, how much Wine outlets the alcohol percentage is, if it does or does not contain sul- phites, if it has been matured, if it is a reserve, and many other There are many places around the world where one can get facts that would assist you in your choice. wine. Enotecas, specialty stores, restaurants and many more. First, however, we need to know which varieties we fi nd Nowadays, this can be done even without leaving our home, appealing. Whether we love Chardonnay more or we are pas- that is, placing an order and then having someone show up at sionate about Merlot. Oh, there are also , and Viognier, the door with a box of the magical drink. Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, , Wine, however, is like a book, like a painting and other pieces Mavrud, Rubin, Misket and many others. So... and as you will of art that you somehow want to see in real life, touch them, encounter countless wines from your favourite varieties, you look around, talk about them, and eventually leave with some will have to fi nd out some more details about them. From which region they come from, how they were made, the style of the masterpieces. they have, if they are light and airy or dense and lavish. All This is where the Wine Shop comes into play and appears as a this will make it easier for you and you will leave happy with a guidebook to the vast world of wine! bottle in hand. (Or maybe two or three...!) Another very important factor in our choice of wine is what Welcome to wine paradise! food we are going to pair it with. They say that is a kind of art, and it really is, so that's where The fi rst and most important, I repeat, very important thing, in sales consultants will help you a lot on the spot. (Let’s hope a specialty wine outlet are the people. Those people who will they have learned their lessons well.) be as generous as possible in their conversations with guests, so that everyone is happy in the end. They will meet you and You want a light, slightly fresh but you do not like help you make your choice. You can taste some wine together meat. All right. Take a Pinot Noir and prepare some tuna fi sh (this is very useful), discuss it and, believe me, you will leave (for example). satisfi ed and happy! Try to experiment with both food and wine. This builds up We all know that a great part of the people drinking wine are your taste and will certainly benefi t you. intelligent and inquisitive. They always look for new things, stay informed, attend wine tastings, trainings, etc. This type A Wine Shop is like a library for wine drinkers! of people are very well prepared and they have an educated Taste and Share! search approach. If we are not one of these people, nothing should bother us when standing among walls covered with Ivan Makedonski wine shelves. Relax! We are in the right place!

Ask, look around and you will understand!

Good and specialized wine outlets have a really huge selec- tion and there we can surely get lost. What to choose? What now! It is not scary, everything is arranged and very well organized and working only for the benefi t of wine consumers. Wines always have faces (labels), and besides the beautiful items on them, there is also plenty of information, especially if we look at the back label. It is good when you go out to choose some wine to allocate a bit more time to enjoy the atmosphere and select at ease some of the wine temptations. At the beginning it will be harder, so you may ask at will. So, what's so important on this label?! Well, there it is... xviii CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xix

My Wine Soul Staff training is paramount where they are knowledgeable, keeping up-to-date on latest trends and fashions, the ebb and Interest in wine is in the ascendant, yippy it seen to be cool fl ow of diff erent varieties, regions and countries in addi- again to drink wine again by those below 35 years old and not tion to a good basic grasp of the history of a wine and how it just an ‘old farts’ drink. Hipsters are exploring beyond shots was made infl uencing its taste. and craft beer. We, in Bulgaria, have a diverse and historic wine story to tell There has been long term history of interest and love of wine and share the bonus of our local grape varieties like the char- not only by those in the booze industry but people who ismatic ancient Mavrud and famous Melnik which was one of simply like drinking it and there are millions of bars, bistros/ Winston Churchill’s favourite wines. There are the deep ruby brasseries and restaurants worldwide. Never has the choice Rubin wines, a modern variety created by crossing French and diversity been greater. Competition is intense in interna- Syrah with Italian Nebbiolo and many more including tional wine consumption centres of the world like London and and Tamianka renowned for its luscious dessert wines. Bul- New York. garia has the right product and we can promote it, increase In my home country, Bulgaria, creative and knowledgeable public awareness through restaurants and bars. wine bar owners are in short supply. Why, I ask myself, when A wine bar can be a centre for local wine culture, ‘gossip’ and, we produce such delicious wines to taste and drink, have as I once read, “fi nd the wine bar, restaurant where the wine great food, beautiful countryside and cities? growers and makers dine”, which is where you will glean the For me wine bars, restaurants are not just about profi t most of what is going on. I have still not tracked down the bar margins, bums on seats and covers sold. It is much, much described in the book where wine legends Dominique Lafon, more. It is about sharing experiences, knowledge and ideas Christophe Roumier and Alain Graillot eat in Burgundy! What enabling guests to have a great time. It is essential in my view do they drink with what food? Oh to be a fl y on the wall. that the owner, manager of the bar and their staff love the That takes me on to the alchemy of wine and food, in short, product they sell and know the wines they are off ering. A the more guests eat, the more they tend to drink and, hope- few years ago, earlier in my career, I opened a small bar and fully, enjoy themselves: win, win and win all round. For me, I that is where I began to understand what was needed to take love light bites, fi nger nibbling food like olives, cheeses and the general wine experience to another level. Not just simply charcuterie. When matching food and wine please don’t have plonking a bottle of wine on the table, taking the money and the boring mass-produced cheeses that anyone can buy in a walking off . supermarket, made from homogenised, pasteurised milk but So, to learn more I packed my bags, left my beloved home instead fabulous tasty artisanal creations from raw milk made country, Bulgaria, and embarked on a wine journey. On my with as much care as the wine they accompany. I will never travels, I began to understand the basics of the hospitality forget the magic of a wine and cheese pairing, a lifetime ex- industry. Location, so important, a busy town centre position perience when I visited Santa Rosa, California. There was not with loads of passing traffi c in contrast to a destination venue a hint of a fl abby tasteless unripe Brie, Camembert and harsh set out in the countryside. What type of ambiance, luxurious blue cheeses there and it is these pairings that can encourage and possibly imposing in contrast to more comfortable and guests to try diff erent wines with diff erent foods or debunk relaxed? Music or no music, that is a question, I dreamt of a false restrictions, such as the myth that red wine can only go ‘snug’ bar with the walls lined with shelves where people with hard cheeses and beef or lamb. What about lighter reds could dip in and out of fi ction, biographies and, of course, with fi sh then? books on wine and food. These tastings can increase business during off peak quieter However, for me the most important consideration is the times in a restaurant and wine bar. Do not forget that the rent team, what do you think? I feel that a sommelier should be paid and running costs are for seven days a week and not passionate, love and know well the wines they serve along just the peak times of Friday and Saturday evenings as way with their team. For me wine is a living entity, a life form as Sunday lunch. Furthermore, an enjoyable wine and food created by people, grape farmers, wine makers, the land on matching evening will help to cement an ongoing relation- which the vineyard stands, the loves and trials of the wine ship between the wine bar team and their customers. being drunk in the glass and how that is refl ected in its taste, Personally, I have no problems with charging corkage on smell and mouthfeel. wines brought in by guests. Is there really a loss of profi t? We xx CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xxi

have not had to store the wine, service the capital invested balanced with the business practicalities leases, rent, cash in the cellar and it is a fabulous opportunity on occasions to fl ow and tax, yet a key to creating a profi t is having a good taste new wines from diff erent unknown producers shared sommelier leading a good team. I prefer not to think of my by clients. Obviously not all wine sold can be on the basis of visitors as customers and clients but more importantly as my a “corkage fee” as then there would be no point in having a guests who wish to explore the world of wine together with cellar but it can further enhance the breadth and balance of a me and my colleagues, so that they feel comfortable with our venue. thoughts and recommendations regularly returning to drink Choice and variety help to keep a wine bar fresh and up-to- wine and taste food. date, just don’t keep to the same wines year in year out just for the sake of it. A wine needs to earn its keep and justify Blagoy Kuzmanski being on a wine list. What is the point of off ering a wine that was delicious one year and then lacked lustre from a diff erent vintage? Guests will be disappointed and feel short changed. In contrast where it does help is when off ering tastings of the same grape variety such as Pinot Noir from diff erent parts of the world with those of rigour from Burgundy with New World Oregon, Central Otago and across the Rhine in Germany Baden Baden. Also, tasting a choice of wines is made easier with diff erent selling formats, at the central London club where I work, we off er a wide range of wines by the glass of varying measures including 25ml, 50ml and 125 ml as well as 350 ml carafes. This is especially popular with the younger wine consumer, where they can sample a greater range of wines without initially buying a whole or half bottle. It is easy to remember the public aspect of any wine bar but forget the unglamorous ones such as correct cellarage and storage, let alone serving temperature. Without these being covered the right way, it is like playing football blindfolded. Don’t be mean with the storage if your main product is the wine, look after it otherwise it will not look after you. Remem- ber it is a living organism! I always make sure my team knows the correct storage and serving temperatures and if a guest fi nds a wine not right for them, then off er them a glass of something diff erent as an alternative, while their chosen wine is brought to the desired drinking temperature. I stand by the quality of the entry point wines I serve; I do not look down my nose at those who wish to buy the cheap- est bottle on a list. If it is no good then why sell it in the fi rst place? A wine list and a menu have to start and fi nish some- where and if your basic product is wrong, then diners are less likely to return. Therefore, on this basis I am not a great lover of deliberate “upselling”. When a more expensive recommen- dation is made, then to me it should be as a result of personal conviction and belief, not simply achieving a higher spending per head for that shift. The romance of wine, running a bar/restaurant is to be xxii CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xxiii

10 Spirits of the World Worth Tasting 4. Baijiu Baijiu is the national spirit of China, making it the most widely consumed spirit in the world. It is usually distilled from fer- There is no better way of getting to know the world than mented sorghum but other grains may be used as well. There tasting it and experiencing it with your senses. This is a short are several very diff erent styles of Baijiu in terms of aromatic guide to 10 spirits worth tasting, even if they can be quite profi le with aromas ranging from grass, coconut and pineap- hard to fi nd in our corner of the world. Specialty stores, bars ple to nail polish (not a defect in some styles) and soy sauce. and travel are, of course, the best ways to get your hands on It is typical that Baijiu would have a higher alcohol content them and understand the diversity of the spirits world. (often 52% alcohol by volume) compared to most similar liquors from East Asia and it is a spirit you can explore and be 1. Pisco surprised by for a long time. Pisco is a grape brandy and the national spirit of Chile and Peru. Although both nations argue about the rights to the 5. Calvados appellation of origin, it is important to note that you can fi nd Calvados is an apple brandy from Normandy, France. You have quality pisco in both countries. It is made by distilling fer- probably heard of it but never tasted it. It is distilled from mented grape juice (from several grape varieties, some of cider made from a wide array of apple varieties with very dif- which coincide for both countries) into a high-proof spirit. The ferent fl avor profi les and some pear varieties. In order for the consumption of pisco is mainly associated with the two most distillate to be sold as calvados, it needs to age for at least two popular cocktails Piscola (locally, especially in Chile) and Pisco years in oak although it often ages for longer than that. Qual- Sour (in both countries and in bars worldwide). ity calvados should, therefore, have an aromatic profi le that you easily associate with apples and pears plus some fl avours 2. Mezcal associated with aging. In terms of consumption, calvados is Mezcal is the original distilled spirit of Mexico, made from a very versatile drink because it can be served as an apéritif, agave. Contrary to Tequila, which can only be distilled from in-between meals, used in cocktails, and even as a digestif, or the Tequilana Weber blue variety agave, Mezcal can be made with coff ee. from many agave varieties and is usually produced in Oaxaca although it can come from anywhere in Mexico. The piñas of 6. Arak the agave are cooked in underground ovens that are responsi- Arak is a wine brandy in the anis drinks family. You can fi nd it ble for giving the spirit its characteristic intense smoky fl avor. in Lebanon, Syria, Jordan and other adjacent countries with Mezcal is also falsely famous for carrying a worm in the bottle some variations in terms of style. It is fl avored with anise but but this is mostly associated with brands that are considered no licorice or botanicals associated with Pastis. Quality arak is to be for tourists and off er lower quality liquor. It is a serious often aged in clay amphoras, giving it smooth mouthfeel. drink with a lot of history that is typically drunk in shots and, until recently, rarely mixed in cocktails. 7. Aquavit Aquavit (can also be spelled as akvavit or akevitt) is a fl a- 3. Rhum Agricole voured spirit that is mainly produced in Scandinavian Rhum agricole is distilled from cane juice and is a style countries where it is commonly drunk during festive occa- of rum coming from the French Caribbean islands. Contrary to sions and as an aperitif. Just like vodka, it is distilled from most rum that is distilled from molasses, rhum agricole has a either grain or potatoes. After that it is fl avoured and the fl a- very diff erent aromatic profi le. It is a spirit that is fruity and dry vour profi le of aquavit includes caraway and dill (present very and one in which you can often fi nd vegetal notes. If you taste often), cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, aniseed, fennel, licorice it, chances are you will either love it or hate it. Then, if you and lemon or orange peel. Aquavit can be clear and golden fi nd out you appreciate it, do go on exploring with Cachaça, but in both styles a quality aquavit should be smooth and the national spirit of Brazil which is also distilled from sugar exhibit a great balance between the alcohol and fl avourings. cane juice. Then make an eff ort to travel as far as the island of Madeira where you will also fi nd some amazing sugar cane 8. Jenever spirits. It is likely that you have tasted gin and know it quite well xxiv CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xxv

although nowadays the category is going wild. However, je- About Movies and Wine never is essentially the origin of gin, the “national spirit of Hol- land” but it is also very popular in Belgium. In terms of fl avor It seems that wine is a never-ending source of inspiration for profi le, it is once again based on the juniper plant (jenever is the fi lm industry. "Sideways" and "A Good Year" gave birth to Dutch for juniper) and it is distilled from malt wine and grain a new genre in this art. Here come the movies in which wine wine. There are two styles of jenever – oude (old) and jonge is not just part of the story but the main character. Or almost (young). They diff er in terms of the distilling process and fl avor the main character. I love good movies about wine. Frankly, I characteristics. To sum up, next time you are in Amsterdam, also love bad movies about wine. They provoke me, make me do look for Jenever, against all odds. dig in the books once again and discover new meanings in my favourite drink. I, hereby, present to you my personal ranking 9. Lambanog list of movies about wine. I have chosen those who not only This spirit is distilled from the fermented sap of the coconut entertain but also pose questions. I have still not found the tree fl ower and comes from the Philippines. It is mostly pro- answers to some of them. But as we all know the answer often duced in the province of Quezon where the process has been lies at the bottom of the bottle. passed down through generations of coconut plantation farmers. Sometimes referred to as coconut vodka, lambanog Wine for the Confused (2004) is often sold fl avoured. If you get a chance to taste it, go for a I cannot believe I discovered this jewel only a few months ago. well known producer at fi rst. This is supposed to be a documentary, with John Cleese as a narrator. As one can expect from him, he turns it into much 10. Sodabi more than that. Funny and with that casual British disrespect, Our trip around the globe fi nally takes us to West Africa with Cleese introduces us to the basic wine terms. He travels another distillate from the fermented sap of various species through Santa Barbara, obviously having a good time, show- of palm trees (or palm wine), called Sodabi. It is a drink known ering us with humour and knowledge. Who would guess that by various names, including Koutoukou in the Ivory Coast, he was also infected by the wine virus? It's worth watching, Ogogoro in Nigeria and Akpeteshie in Ghana. During the even just for the pleasure of seeing him dwell on our sacred European colonization in Africa the spirit was made illegal be- theme of wine. Only one thing can be said about this movie: cause it competed with European liquor imports. Modern day "Bacchus rocks us. Cheers Mr. Cleese!" renditions of this palm liquor are infused with tropical fl avours and spices and made increasingly popular in the US. Saint Amour There you have it! At this point no bar is too well prepared (2016) for your visit but stay open minded and allow yourself to be Gerard Depardieu is deeply connected to winemaking, pro- enchanted. ducing wine in Bordeaux, Languedoc-Roussillon, Spain, Mo- rocco and Argentina. Making a comedy about wine was just a Elena Neykova matter of time. There are tons of farce in this movie, but also some strange elegance and fi nesse. And, of course, a lot, but an awful lot of wine, that the characters drink, steal, exchange, drink again and fi nally... I will not spoil your pleasure, you will see for yourself.

Story of Wine (2008) One of those subtle, unobtrusive and stylish movies that only Asians can make - one molecule of discretion, two molecules of refi nement. An exclusive list of wines, each of them is presented with its history. Love, friendship, betrayal, sacrifi ce... there is a bit of everything.

The Vintner's Luck (2011) An ambitious young boy from an Italian village wants not xxvi CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xxvii

only to become a winemaker, but to create the fi nest wine taking an exam for Master Sommelier. If they manage to pass in the world. The movie succeeds in conveying the confused it, they will get a title that only about 200 people in the world relationships with his female inspirers and the way they aff ect have. The fi lm is complex and complicated, just like fi ne wine. the wine. The inspirers themselves also deserve attention - his It tells a fascinating story about these four real sommeliers beautiful wife, the intellectual baroness and his personal... and their days before the greatest challenge in their lives. I guardian angel. So, while the bullish wine-maker-to-be real- learned a lot about wine from this movie, but the most impor- izes the meaning of faith and love, he creates the unique wine tant thing is that the true understanding of wine begins when - sensual and sacred at the same time. There are such bottles, I you humble yourself in front of this vast ocean of fl avours know it. This movie reminded me of that. and aromas. Watch it in the company of a bottle of German Riesling and prepare an aluminium box from tennis balls. No, El Camino del Vino (2010) I'm not going to tell you why. You will fi nd out in the fi rst 10 A famous sommelier loses his sense of smell and taste in the minutes. middle of a wine festival. To recover, he has to go back to his native place to fi nd out why he ever engaged with wine and Maria Chalieva whether he really loves it. The most interesting thing is that the movie is featuring Michel Rolland. A little compensation after his unfortunate appearance in Mondovino. The fi lm is worth it - a pleasant tour through Argentina, beautifully shot, and a lot of talking about wine and drinking wine.

Mondovino (2004) Talking about Michel Rolland, we cannot miss this movie. You will see the inner side of the wine world, in an impeccable and sometimes ruthless dissection of the industry. Yes, the movie is quite detailed and sometimes critical (to say the least) about winemaking. It also contains many conversations with Michel Rolland, the man whose wine-making style has become a world-wide model and success.

Blood Into Wine (2010) My very favourite, my movie. I will only say - wine and rock. I will not tell you anything more.

The Trip to Italy (2010) British comedians Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon, after their hit movie The Trip (2010), are on an even more wonderful trip to Italy. They go around Italy while eating, drinking and fi ght- ing. Flying along the way in their Mini Cooper convertible, they set off from Piedmont in northern Italy to the southern island of Capri, with slight detours across the hills of Tuscany, past the Amalfi coast and down to the Italian Riviera. If you want to plan an ideal vacation, it is not a bad idea to follow them on their way.

Somm (2013) Still a documentary, but very funny. Featuring four men, real people. They are sommeliers and are in the last days before xxviii CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xxix

Glossary Honest – wine with all characteristics of a variety, but not always interesting. of some terms used to describe wines Intensity of aromas on the nose – the strength by which Aroma – the smell of wine, it should refl ect only fresh, fruity aromas aff ect our sense of smell – light, medium, pronounced, notes, related to grapes. Often the words “aroma” and „bou- delicate. quet” are used as synonyms. Intensity of wine colour – describes the density of colour – Animalistic aromas – wine with fl avours of raw meat, leather, dense, intense, pale. game, musk. Light – nice wine lacking body. Attack – the fi rst impression a wine makes upon tasting. Long wine, long aftertaste – wine that leaves for long time Balance, balanced – excellent harmony among the compo- pleasant taste in the mouth after it has been swallowed. nents of wine – acidity, tannins, sugar, fruitiness and oak. Multi-layered – see complexity Barrel fermented – fermentation in oak – wines fermented in Nose – the smell of wine. oak barrels and obtaining more complex fl avours than wines Nuances of colour – usually an indication of a wine’s age, only aged in barrels. grape varieties, fermentation. In red wines violet hues are a Bitter – usually considered a disadvantage of wine, but there sign of a young wine, while brick (in all its hues) – of an aged is an elegant bitterness. wine. Blend – wine made by blending wines from diff erent grape Oak – oak barrel, a container of various sizes for fermenting or varieties. aging wine. Blind tasting – the information about the wine is withheld Oaky – nuances on the nose and taste, resulting from fer- until the wine has been tasted and rated. mentation and/or aging in oak barrels or implementing other Body – fullness on the palate. oenological practices. Bouquet – refl ects the smell developed in wine after aging. Petrol, petrol note – aromas and fl avours of petrol. Often used as a synonym for “aroma”. Round – well balanced wine. Colour – variety and oenological practices determine it. It is Silky, velvety, satin – wine with very smooth and supple the fi rst perception of the wine. texture. Complexity – the wine has compound aromas and fl avours. Smoke, smoky – smell of smoke, usually a sign of the use of Clarity – the presence or absence of fl oating particles of dif- oak in winemaking. ferent sizes or lees. The presence of sediment in the bottle is Smooth – wine has a smooth texture. not always a disadvantage, but must be removed when pour- Tannic – describes wines with high tannins. ing into a glass. Taste – the feeling that wine leaves in your mouth. Elegance – subtle eff ects of wine. Thin – not full-bodied wine. Everyday wine – inexpensive, easy drinking wine. Typical – the taste of a particular wine and the adopted crite- Finish, aftertaste, final – the feeling left by the wine after ria for its variety, appellation, style. swallowing or spitting – short, medium, long. Usually better Vanilla – describes the bouquet and fl avour of wine produced wines have a longer, lingering fi nish. in contact with oak wood. Flavour – aromatic sensations on the palate. Varietal character – the characteristics of the wine match Flavour intensity – the degree to which fl avour is expressed. those of a particular variety. Flowers, floral – dominating aromas of fl owers – roses, jas- Varietal wine – varietal wine made from one grape variety. mine and others. Vegetal – wine dominated by aromas and fl avours of veg- Freshness, fresh – sensation associated with acidity. etables. Fruit, fruity – wine, dominated by aromas and fl avours of fruit. Vinification – the whole process of making wine from the mo- Harmony – a positive feature of wine that shows balance of all ment of harvesting the grapes until the wine bottling. sensations. Wild fermentation – fermentation with no added cultivated Herbs, herbal – to sense aromas and/or to taste fl avours of yeast. fresh or dried herbs – rosemary, thyme, mint. Wine nose – wine that lacks distinctive smell. xxx CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xxxi

How to Use KA&TA Bulgarian Wine 2018?

All wines have been tasted in 2017.

Tasters, most of them educated wine lovers, have suffi cient experience, interest, knowledge and vocabulary to present the wines in full to the readers.

The wines that are tasted, described and rated are dry still wines in a standard glass bottle.

Some well-known, even good wines are not present in the guide because they have not been available for tasting or rejected due to a fault.

Wines produced from white varieties using thе red wine production methods, have not been evaluated and are pre- sented in italic font.

The wines have been categorized by a price range depend- ing on the retail price in specialized stores. Deviations in price are possible.

The cellars are presented with accurate addresses, coor- dinates and contacts. The services they provide have been indicated - hotel, restaurant, regular or upon reservation tasting, etc.

All symbols and characters are presented and explained on the next page. xxxii CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2017 INTRODUCTION xxxiii

How we rate the wines CATALOGUE OF BULGARIAN WINE 2018 exceptional 76 Bulgarian wine Name of the wine excellent wine Rosé C 2016 Pinot Noir – "été indien" colour; enticing nose with notes very good wine of strawberry, white pepper and honey; dense, round body with excellent balance Grape varieties good wine and again with fruit fl avour – blood orange, strawberry; long, saline fi nish. that the wine is made of. decent wine Chardonnay C 2016 – pale straw colour with a lead hue; elegant nose with notes we like this wine of blossoming fruit tree, melon and wax; voluminous, smooth body with a feeling Vintage – year, when as well of stone and nettle on the palate; long, elegant fi nish. the grapes were harvested. pleasant drinking Orange, Gewurztraminer C 2016 – amber colour; complex nose with notes of dried apricot, Wines produced from white plain and simple acacia honey, forest fl owers, dry herbs; powerful, round body with elegant saltiness varieties using thе red wine and a feeling of chalk and talc; long dry fi nish. The wine is not fi ltered. An extravagant production methods ordinary wine. no comment Contact details Ruse Wine House Retail price Name of wine producer – the Rousse 7000, zk Druzhba 2, complex Leventa wineries are listed in Х up to 7.99 lv. Tel: + 359 82 862 884; +359 889 957 731 e-mail: [email protected]; [email protected] alphabetical order. А from 8 lv. to 13.99 lv. Coordinates: 43° 49' 37" N, 25° 57' 03" E Oenologist: Ekaterina Gargova GPS coordinates of the winery. В from 14 lv. to 21.99 lv. www.leventa-bg.net In case the winery does not Wine tastings and cellar visits are available from 11.30 to 23.00 С from 22 lv. to 35.99 lv. or upon reservation at +359 82 862 880. have a full address the coor- dinates of the centre of the Е over 36 lv. village are given. The Rousse Wine House was created in 2005 by two brothers Plamen and Atanas Bob- okovi and Canko Stanchev – oenologist with over 30 years of experience in the wine Additional information Cellar tours industry. The winery is part of a unique fortifi cation structure with nearly 200 years about the cellar Tastings at the winery of history, one of the objectives is to preserve the traditions and achievements of wine- making in the region of Rousse. Information There is a historical or The Levent complex is situated in the Levent Tabia fort which was built in the late XVIII about the cellar natural place of interest century and reconstructed at the beginning of the XIX century. It consists of a restaurant within 15 km and the Rousse Wine House. The restaurant has 150 seats distributed among seven Hotel at the premises of separate halls. The Ivanovo rock churches and St. Dimitar Basarbovski Monastery are located nearby. the winery Grand Selection Restaurant at the premises Rosé C Name of wine range of the winery 2016 – pale peach colour with pearl refl ections; elegant nose with peach notes, dried strawberry, moss and orange peel; body with excel- There are people who lent harmony and balance, ripe apricot and melon are found on the palate; long, Tasting notes make us smile when we fresh fi nish with a hint of pink grapefruit. meet them. Without a Chardonnay C good reason. They can be 2016 – intense straw colour with olive oil hues; rich, multi- tall and slender, short and layered nose – candied orange peel, white peach, milk cream; body with balanced Wine ratings freshness and delicate salinity; long, elegant fi nish. round, elegant or casual. Sauvignon Blanc B But we give them a smile! 2016 – brilliant straw colour; rich, multi-layered nose with notes of Retail price There are such wines as white currant, cream and biscuit; dense body with notes of sweet tobacco and ripe well and this is our sign for apple; long fresh fi nish. them!