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Assembly Guide Part 1 Packs 1-10

1 Assembly Guide Part 1 Packs 1-10 Contents HMS Victory, Nelson and the 3 Build it your way 8 Pack 1 13 Pack 2 17 Pack 3 21 Pack 4 29 Pack 5 31 Pack 6 33 Pack 7 42 Pack 8 44 Pack 9 45 Pack 10 63

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NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF 14. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT A TOY AND IS NOT DESIGNED OR INTENDED FOR USE IN PLAY. items may vary from those shown. HMS Victory, Admiral Nelson and the Battle of Trafalgar HMS (Her Majesty’s Ship) Victory is the most famous warship from the Age of Sail, and the death of her commander, Admiral Nelson, on board at the Battle of Trafalgar became one of the key moments in the history of .

HMS Victory, which is now in dry dock at Historic Dockyard in England, is the only surviving line-of-battle ship that dates back to the Napoleonic and French Revolutionary Wars. She is the also the oldest commissioned warship in the world, and is still crewed by officers and men of the British Royal Navy. A First Rate warship Victory was classed a First Rate . This meant she was a warship that carried at least 100 guns. Her heavy armament made her one of the most powerful warships of the time and one of only a small number of First Raters in the British Navy. She measured 227 ft 6 in long with a beam (width) of 51 ft 10 in. She carried a maximum of 37 sails, whose total area was the same size as a football field, giving her a maximum speed of around 11 knots. Victory’s full crew was 850, although she only carried 820 at the time of her most famous action – the Battle of Trafalgar. The new vessel’s construction began at , Kent on July 23, 1759. Britain was fighting the Seven Years’ War against the French, and the new First Rater was intended to bring the fleet up to strength. In 1760, it was announced that she would be called Victory. However, before the Since 1922, Victory has been in dry dock in Portsmouth. She is now the for the Commander-in-Chief Naval Home Command as well as a popular museum of the Georgian navy. 3 Victory was almost entirely built of . Many of her timbers were massive, weighing many hundredweight, and her hull was several feet thick.

warship was complete, the Treaty of Paris ended the war, work slowed down, and she was not launched until May 7, 1765. Building Victory was a massive undertaking. Around 6,000 trees went into her construction and her total cost was £63,176 (equivalent to over $78 million now). This was a massive investment, but as Victory was no longer needed for immediate service, she was assigned to the reserve fleet after sea trials. The massive wooden hull remained moored in the Medway River, roofed over and with bare masts for 13 years, until Britain went into battle against the American colonists in the Revolutionary War. Victory was finally commissioned as the flagship of Admiral Augustus Keppel and saw action in July 1778 during the

The warship was built between 1759 and 1765 at the former Royal Dockyard on the banks of the Medway River at Chatham, which now houses exhibitions relating to the construction of warships of her era.

4 Grim reminders of 18th-century warfare on board Victory include surgical tools used in amputations and for extracting bullets.

Revolutionary War, fighting the American colonists and their French and Spanish. Victory went on to sail as the flagship to nine , of whom the most famous, Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson, was the eighth. Nelson’s last battle When Victory became his flagship in 1803, Admiral Nelson was already a national hero following a string of victories in Britain’s wars against the French and their European allies. The Emperor Bonaparte, who dreamed of a Europe under French control, fought a long and bloody series of wars that lasted from 1793 until his final defeat at the Battle attacking Britain. He gathered a huge invasion barges could sail unopposed. of Waterloo in 1815. For most of this invasion force near the ports of The Royal Navy concentrated its time, the French army dominated Boulogne and Dunkirk, with over warships in the Channel and around Europe, while Britain, the world’s 2,000 boats to transport men and the French ports, so the Emperor greatest naval power, controlled the horses to southern England. ordered his fleet to attack British seas. A peace in 1802 only lasted The flotilla was ready on July 6, 1805, colonies and settlements overseas, briefly, and by 1805 Britain was under but Napoleon’s plans could only hoping that the Royal Navy would be serious threat. Napoleon had succeed if the ships of his own navy sent to protect them. As part of the strengthened his position on the and their Spanish allies could draw off French plan, Admiral Villeneuve’s Continent and could concentrate on or defeat the Royal Navy, so that the Mediterranean fleet joined with a

The Admiral’s cabin has been restored to look as it did on the eve of battle in 1805.

4 5 Victory carries a full complement of guns on each of her three gun decks.

The ship’s wheel is at the rear of the , which was the command center of the ship. Spanish fleet at the port of Cadiz, on the southwest coast of Spain. There, they were blockaded by a British fleet under Nelson’s command. Despite long and complicated maneuvers, the French failed to gain the upper hand. The Battle of Trafalgar The Franco-Spanish fleet finally left Cadiz on October 20, 1805. On the next day, Nelson gave the order to engage the much larger enemy force off Cape Trafalgar, some 27 miles out to sea. Nelson commanded 27 ships of the Royal Navy, carrying 17,000 men. The combined French and Spanish by a musket ball fired by a French captured or destroyed and only 11 of fleet included 33 ships, many of which marksman. He was taken below but the survivors were able to limp back to were larger than the British ships, there was nothing that the ship’s safety in the harbor of Cadiz. Nelson crewed by some 30,000 men. surgeon could do. The injury was fatal and Victory had given Britain control Nelson’s tactics were bold, brave and but before England’s greatest naval of the seas for decades to come. completely unconventional. His plan hero died on board Victory, he was to split the opposition’s forces meant brought the news that he had won a sailing straight toward the enemy devastating victory. Despite the carnage under fire, unable to return a shot until on board, not a single British ship was the moment they engaged. lost, but 18 of the enemy ships were As always, Nelson took his place in the thick of the action. He was A brass plaque on the planks of the directing operations on Victory’s quarter deck shows where the admiral was struck by a musket ball quarterdeck when he was struck down fired by a French marksman. 6 ™

Among the historical items displayed on the ship today are portraits of Admiral Nelson and his lover Emma Hamilton. 6 7 ™ Build it your way Before you start, choose whether to assemble your model with a natural finish that shows off your handiwork, or to paint it to make it as authentic a replica as possible of Victory at the time of the Battle of Trafalgar.

ith each shipment, you’ll receive more packs of parts to be used to put together your model of HMS WVictory. These include precision laser-cut wooden components to build the hull, solid hardwood for the planking and masts, die-cast, turned and etched metal components for the deck fittings, guns and other equipment, cord for the rigging, and cotton cloth for the sails. Although the parts go together in the same way, you have a choice of a natural wood model or a painted finish (see below). As some of the parts need to be painted as you go, choose your paint finish before you start.

Your model is made from materials that include hardwood, brass and cast white metal. You can either paint these or allow the natural colors to show.

Option 1: Natural finish Option 2: Paint finish

Many marine modelers prefer to display the results of their Most of Victory was painted to prevent decay, so even if the handiwork by leaving the materials in their natural state, so material was similar to the model, it was a different color. that the craftsmanship and skill can be fully appreciated. For example, the hull was painted with alternating stripes The instructions that you’ll receive pack by pack show you of black and ochre; the area below the waterline was how to put the model together this way. You simply need plated with copper; and iron parts were painted black to to ensure that the parts remain clean and free from excess protect them from corrosion. If you want to finish your glue or other marks. However, some of the sub-assemblies model like this, you need to decide well before the model will need to be varnished or lacquered to protect them nears completion. Some parts have to be painted as you from dirt or tarnishing. In some cases, where later assembly go because they will become impossible to reach. Where will make parts inaccessible, this finishing process needs to this applies, a panel in that set of assembly instructions be carried out as you go. explains how to finish the parts.

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As well as deciding whether to paint the straight and help to make it rigid. “fairing”) so that the planks will curve model, or leave it natural, there are a few Adding a cutaway: If you want to add smoothly over them, rather than going in a other choices to make before you assemble the optional cutaway shown below, you will series of steps. Then you bend the planks the framework and the planking. Most need to alter the framework to allow you to and glue and pin them in place until the importantly, you need to decide: leave the side of the ship open to install the whole hull is complete. • whether to construct the optional cutaway guns and gunners at a later stage. This will Adding a cutaway: If you decided to (see below) be fully explained in the step-by-step add a cutaway, you’ll omit the planking • whether to apply a “copper” finish to instructions. If you don’t want to add a between some of the ribs at this stage. simulate the sheathing applied below the cutaway to your hull, you can use the extra waterline (see pages 10-12). guns and gunners to build a miniature Stage 3: Hull fittings Your choice of options will affect the way diorama showing life below decks. Once The first step in fitting out the hull is to cut you build the model. Let’s start by looking again, the step-by-step instructions will the dozens of gun ports that pierce both at the building sequence, stage by stage: show you what’s involved. sides of the planking. With that done, each of the ports can be lined with strips of Stage 1: The framework Stage 2: Planking wood. Then you add the curved strakes and In this stage, you’ll assemble the framework Once the hull framework is complete, you wales – strips of wood that reinforce and over which Victory’s planking is applied. can cover it with planks, just like the real protect both sides of the hull. Various You’ll glue these parts together with the Victory. The first step is to smooth off and minor deck and hull fittings are added at decks, which will keep the whole structure shape the frames (a process known as this stage. If you are painting the hull, some

The Cutaway

The cutaway is created by omitting parts of the hull the end of construction (Stage 6). If you prefer to leave the framework and planking during Stages 2 and 3 to leave hull intact and not add the cutaway, you can use the extra sections of the open gun decks on display. The guns and guns and crew to create a miniature diorama depicting the gunners you need to create the scene are supplied later on work going on below decks, which you can display in the series, as they are not placed inside the model until alongside your completed model of HMS Victory.

Part of the open lower gun deck of Victory (above), showing a 32-pounder projecting from the gun port.

The cutaway (left) Part of the array of leaves short sections of guns on Victory’s the middle and lower three gun decks, gun decks open, so you mirroring the can see the guns and same area of the their crews inside. model on the left.

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Victory’s Paint Finish

Starting at the upper edge of the copper applied below the impossible to turn the hull upside-down. Many parts of the waterline (see Adding on pages 11 and hull will also become completely inaccessible when you add 12), Victory’s sides were painted in a dull matte black divided the rigging – especially the external shrouds that come with three broad bands of dull matte yellow ochre. The down from the masts and over the sides of the ship, secured bands of color do not follow the lines of the wales by deadeyes and lanyards to external “channels” projecting (reinforcing bands of planking) or the lines of the gun ports. from the hull. They are not the same width throughout their length, but You’ll need to paint various other items as they are added become narrower toward the bows and stern of the ship. to the hull at a later stage. These include the gun port lids It’s essential to mark and paint these stripes at the stage and other external fittings. You may also need to add when the hull and its main fittings are complete but before finishing touches to the main hull. Full painting information you add delicate items of deck equipment that make it will be included at the points when it is needed.

The complex rigging that covers Victory’s sides shows why you have to paint some areas before completing the assembly of the model.

Victory as she appears at Portsmouth today. After extensive restoration, the great Finishing details, such as gun port lids, are warship appears much as she did at the time of the Battle of Trafalgar, with a added toward the end of the build, so they prominent paint finish of black and yellow ochre. have to be painted at a much later stage.

of the more delicate items need to be left separate sections that you shape and join some finishing touches as you go, since until after you have done so, and can be following full-size plans supplied with the some areas are inaccessible once the masts, painted individually as you go. packs of parts. spars and sails are in place. (If you prefer, Painting the ship: If you decided to Painting the ship: If you decide on a you can omit the sails, leaving the ship paint the hull, you need to apply the basic painted finish, you need to paint the masts with bare spars, as Victory appears today) stripes of black and yellow at this stage (see and spars as you go, because they will Victory’s paint finish, above). become inaccessible later on. If you opted Stage 6: Finishing touches Adding copper sheathing: If you for a natural finish, you can simply varnish Final details include the last of the rigging decide to add the copper bottom, you also all the parts to protect them. lines plus some external fittings, including need to do this now (see Adding Copper gun port lids, anchors, davits and flags. Sheathing, on pages 11 and 12, for the Stage 5: Rigging and sails Painting the ship: If you choose a various options). The completed masts can now be installed painted finish, you need to add a few in the hull, adding the standing rigging finishing touches at this stage. Stage 4: Masts and spars lines as you go. The yards, sails and rigging Adding a cutaway: If you decide Victory’s three masts, bowsprit and the lines are then added in sequence. to include the cutaway, you will install the yards that carry the sails are made from Painting the ship: You need to add guns and gun crews at this stage.

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Adding Copper Sheathing

In 1780, the part of Victory’s hull that lay order to fill and sand it smooth, then below the waterline was covered with a 1. Wooden “copper” finish mark the waterline all round, mask off thin copper sheathing to provide If you choose to leave your model in the area above and apply the copper protection against the teredo natural wood, you may prefer not to paint. shipworm, which caused severe simulate the copper at all. An You have two choices for a painted damage to wooden ships by boring into alternative is to use a wood stain to finish. You can apply a bright copper, their timbers. Victory’s oak hull was darken the planking on the lower part which will look very impressive but covered with 3,923 pieces of copper of the hull to give the impression that doesn’t represent Victory as she sheet, each measuring 4 ft x 14 in. the area was covered in copper. appeared in service. Alternatively, it’s These sheets were laid in an possible to simulate verdigris very overlapping pattern, similar to 2. Painted finish convincingly. You can even buy special brickwork, and nailed in place. The cheapest and easiest way of paint designed for an “antiqued” effect. In service, the copper rapidly tarnished simulating the sheathing is to use Paint will naturally produce a smooth and collected marine growths, so it paint. If you choose this option, you finish rather than the “tiled” effect naturally took on the dark green need to apply it after the hull is produced by nailing on copper plates. mottled appearance known as verdigris, completely planked but before you However, at the 1:84 scale of your rather than appearing as shiny metal. start to add the delicate deck fittings model, the tiles are very small and the There are four main options for during Stage 3. This is because you will joints between them are barely modeling this feature: need to turn the hull upside-down in perceptible, so you may decide that

This model of Victory is painted in authentic colors. The copper sheathing applied below the waterline has been simulated, using a paint finish that gives the mottled green verdigris effect that copper takes on when it corrodes.

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this does not matter. Alternatively, it’s Paints and Varnish possible to simulate the joints by lightly scribing lines on the hull before The best paints to use are water- painting so that they show through the based modeling paints, as these are finish. This is very convincing, but it is a non-toxic, fast-drying and provide an painstaking and time-consuming job. authentic period finish. They can be bought separately in conveniently 3. Copper tape small quantities, or you can buy a set For greater authenticity, you can apply of 14 that includes all the colors real copper to the hull. The cheaper, recommended for painting Victory in quicker option is to buy narrow, a historically accurate way. A section of the hull sprayed with a self-adhesive copper tape (available in If you visit the official HMS Victory bright metallic copper paint. various sizes) and stick strips to the website, you will see that her curators underside of the hull. As with a painted provide detailed information on what finish, you need to apply the copper colors were used and where, and tape after the hull is completely we’ll be giving you the same planked but before you start to add instructions in your magazine. The the delicate deck fittings. colors include the prominent yellow While tape is quicker to apply than ochre and dull black, of course, but tiles, it does have disadvantages. Most you’ll also need red, white, blue, gold importantly, you must cut the tape and more to pick out Victory’s fittings into short sections — you cannot use and ornamental details. These paints long strips. This is because copper are available individually or in sets expands very readily when it gets from good model shops, or you can warm but wood does not. If you stick buy them directly from our website. large pieces of copper to the wooden The paint set includes some clear hull, you will find that, over time, they lacquer with which to varnish the will wrinkle and bubble and may even parts of Victory that should be left in pull away. natural wood, such as the decks and Although strips of copper tape will many small fittings. A section of the hull sprayed with an give some impression of the copper If you plan to leave your model in a antiquing paint to produce a simulated plates on the real Victory (particularly if natural wood finish, you will need to verdigris effect. they are around the right width to be apply varnish to all the exposed in scale), you won’t get the authentic surfaces in order to preserve them “brickwork” finish unless you cut and bring out the grain of the thousands of small pieces that will be materials. Once again, you can buy very difficult to shape and apply suitable water-based modeling accurately. lacquer from the sources mentioned The natural copper will naturally above. You can also use wood stain tarnish in time to a more authentic to accentuate parts of the ship or verdigris finish, or you can achieve the simulate the original materials (see A section of the hull scribed with lines to effect artificially. Wooden “copper” finish in Adding simulate the overlapping sheets of Copper Sheathing, on page 11). copper, then painted with metallic copper paint. 4. Copper tiles You can also choose to apply real copper tiles, which are available to buy as an optional extra. These produce a very attractive finish, but bear in mind that the tiles all have to be applied individually. Once again, you can leave the copper natural (it will naturally A section of the hull covered with tarnish a little over time) or weather it miniature copper tiles to simulate the to an artificial verdigris finish. Water-based modeling paints are sheathing. available in all the authentic colors. They are quick-drying and easy to apply.

12 ™ Pack 1 The parts provided include four precision, laser-cut frames to form the bow of Victory, plus glue, and all the components for the first of the guns that formed her main armament.

Part 1 Part 12 Parts 8 Bow section of internal “” Forward bulkhead Bow formers

Where the parts fit 12

8 Victory’s hull is built up around a series of “U”-shaped rib frames that run the full length of the ship. The ribs slot into an internal “keel” that runs from bow to stern below the gun decks. The parts provided are the bow section of the internal keel (1), the forward bulkhead (12) and two bow 1 formers (8).

12-pounder gun Component check

Small Parts The components that make up the gun are very small, so ensure that none of the components shown (right) are missing before you assemble it as shown later in this pack. Note that one pair of wheels is larger than the other, and that the two pins that fix the gun to the deck are not used until later. glue 13 ™ Assembling the bow frames The wooden pieces form the main framework of Victory’s bow. You can either start to assemble them now using the glue provided or wait until you have opened more Packs to build up the framework of the hull. Only 1 2 apply glue to the long slot.

1. The forward bulkhead (12) fits into slot number 12. Test-fit 2. Separate the keel from the forward bulkhead again and to check that the bottoms of the two slots touch and the base apply a thin line of glue along both sides of the slot in the of the bulkhead lines up with the curved edge of the keel. forward bulkhead.

3 Quick Tip The edges of the wood are accurately cut using a laser (which is the reason they are a darker brown). As a , there should be no stray splinters to prevent the joints from sliding together easily. But if there are any rough spots, lightly rub the parts with fine sandpaper to remove them.

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3. Before the glue starts to dry, slide the two parts together again. Make sure that the bottom of the bulkhead ends up flush with the curved edge of the keel.

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4. The two bow formers (8) have a pair of projecting tabs that fit into the matching holes numbered 8. Test them in position before applying glue to the tabs and the straight edges of the bow formers.

Quick Tip The bulkhead is symmetrical, so it 5. Press both bow formers will fit into the slot in the keel either into place. Check that the way around. Make sure you install it joints between all four with the numbers facing forward, as parts are at right angles shown. Otherwise, it will be harder for and set the assembly aside you to match up the numbered bow to dry. If necessary, you can formers (parts 7 to 11a) when you use a little masking tape to receive them in later packs. hold the parts until the glue has set. 14 ™ Assembling the 12-pounder gun This model of one of Victory’s deck guns is assembled in a similar way to the real thing, although some of the model parts are made of brass instead of iron and wood.

Both axles Before you start and the trunnion are cut from the Make sure you have all the components long piece of shown in the exploded view (right) wire before you start. You will need: u A craft knife u Side cutter pliers (from model shops) u Superglue (cyanoacrylate adhesive) to fix the parts together u A pair of tweezers to hold the parts u A flat needle file (from model shops)

1 2 3

1. Use a craft knife to separate the two 2. Fit the sides and base of the carriage 3. Leave enough wire projecting to form sides of the gun carriage. Support the together like this, ensuring that the an axle for one of the wheels (about 1/8 parts on a cutting mat or work surface ribbed surfaces of the sides are facing in). Use side cutters to snip the wire on to ensure that you do not split the wood out. Then gently push the brass wire the other side of the gun carriage, with as you cut the tab that joins them. through one set of axle holes. the same amount projecting. 4 Paintwork Trafalgar finish

The guns carried on board ships of the line were painted black, using a mixture of black lead, linseed oil and other materials to prevent the iron from rusting. To achieve this finish, paint all the brass parts using a fine brush and black modeling paint. HMS Victory’s gun carriages were painted a dull yellow ochre. You will need to apply 4. Push the remaining piece of wire through the other pair of axle holes. As before, this color trim the wire off leaving a small bit projecting from both sides to take the wheels. before Now hold the carriage upside-down. Ensure that the base touches the axles and that fitting the the axles are centered, then carefully apply a tiny amount of superglue to the barrel. underside so that it runs into the joints. 15 ™

5 Expert Tip Using superglue Liquid superglue of the type recommended for the model is very runny and it is easy to apply too much. It can also bond skin in seconds, so if you are unfamiliar with using it, read the safety instructions on the pack. When using superglue to assemble a finely detailed model like Victory, it can be tricky to apply the small amounts needed. Never apply glue to the model until you have first tried it on a piece of scrap card to see how quickly it runs out of the nozzle. To apply tiny amounts accurately, you may find it easier to run out a blob of glue 5. When the glue has set, turn the carriage on one side and onto the card and pick up a droplet on place one of the larger wheels on the end of the front axle. the point of a pin. Apply a tiny drop of glue to the center to fix it in place.

6 7 8

6. Glue one of the smaller wheels to 7. To finish the axles off neatly, you can 8. Lay the remaining wire in the grooves the rear axle, then turn the carriage over file the projecting ends of the wire flush running across the top of the sides. Cut it and add the other two wheels. using a flat needle file. off flush with the sides of the carriage.

9 10

Ensure the ring on the barrel (called the thimble) is facing up

9. Push the cut length of wire through the hole in the gun 10. Glue the two brass “cap squares” over the ends of barrel to form the trunnion, then lay the barrel on the gun the wire. The easiest way to do this is to hold the cap carriage with the ends of the wire in the grooves. square with tweezers. Put a drop of glue on a piece of paper, touch the cap square 11. Take the 11 to the glue, then hold it in remaining small position on the gun rectangle of wood carriage until the and use a craft knife glue sets. to shave it to a wedge shape. Glue the wedge to the back of the gun carriage, so that it raises the rear end of the gun barrel.

16 ™ Pack 2

The parts provided include six precision laser-cut plywood parts for the first of the “U”-shaped rib frames that support Victory’s planking, plus all the components for the first of the four massive anchors used to moor the warship.

Parts 13, 13a, 13b Rib frame Parts 14, 14a, 14b Rib frame

Where the parts fit 13 14

Victory’s hull planking is built up around a series of “U”-shaped rib frames that run the full length of the ship, plus a series of curved frames that support the rounded planking of the bow. The parts provided are the first two rib frames that form the hull (13 and 14).

Anchor 6 components

Small Parts The brass ring that goes through the eye of the anchor is very small, so make sure that it does not get misplaced. Note that there are two coils of thread – a thick one and a thin one. The thin thread is used to bind the anchor stock; the thick one is used to make the mooring line.

17 ™ Assembling the bow frames The wooden pieces form the main framework of Victory’s bow. You can either start to assemble them now using the glue provided or wait until you have opened more Packs to build up the framework of the hull.

1 2

Only apply glue as far as this point

1. Take the three plywood components labeled 13, 13a and 2. The dove-tailed joints are a close fit, so don’t assemble 13b. Together, they make up the first of the 17 “U”-shaped rib them without glue, as they may be hard to separate. Apply frames that form Victory’s hull. a little glue as shown and press the parts together.

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3. Make sure that both ribs are straight and not twisted, then 4. The rib frame slides into the number 13 slot immediately set the completed frame down on a flat, non-stick surface, behind the forward bulkhead. As you did with the bulkhead, such as a plastic worktop, to let the glue dry thoroughly. ensure that the bottoms of the two slots touch, 5 so that the base of the rib lines up with the curved edge of the keel.

This slot forms a socket for the foremast

Quick Tip We recommend that you don’t glue the “U”-shaped rib frames to Victory’s internal keel yet as it’s important to align the tops with the frames that are still to come. However, 5. Assemble rib frame 14 in the same way you can slot both rib frames as you did for 13. When the glue is dry, try into the bow assembly to the rib frame in place in the keel. Note that see Victory’s hull start to the slot is thicker at the top. This will form a take shape. socket for the base of the foremast.

18 ™ Assembling the anchor Victory’s anchors are assembled in a similar way to the real thing, with a cast metal shank and arms and a wooden stock that is made Before you start from two pieces bound tightly together. As on the full-size ship, the Make sure you have all the anchor will be roped in place against the hull. components before you start. You also need the following tools: 1 u Ruler and pencil u Needle file u Craft knife and pliers u Modeling vice and clothespin

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2. Use a needle file to form a slot in line 1. Find the center of both the wooden with the mark on the first half of the pieces that form the anchor stock and stock, down to about halfway through. draw a line at right angles across them. A small vice will help to hold the wood.

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3. The slot needs to be the same width 4. File a slot in the other piece of the 5. It’s easiest to fit the ring into the eye as the shank of the anchor, so check that stock, ensuring that the two slots line at the end of the shank now, rather than this will fit. Note that the points of the up. Check that the two halves fit around after you glue the stock in place. Open it anchor go at right angles to the stock. the shank and don’t leave a gap. and pinch it back together using pliers.

6 7 Quick Tip It’s possible to manage without a modeling vice as used in Step 2. However, a table-top model (right) may not cost that much and can be used in many ways as your model progresses. A swiveling head and interchangeable jaws are useful features. 6. Apply glue sparingly to 7. Press the two halves together around one half of the stock. Apply the shank, ensuring that they line up a little to both the central with each other. Clamp lightly (clothes- slots. pins are a simple alternative to clamps or a vice) and leave to dry thoroughly.

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8 important 9 note We have demonstrated Steps 9-13 using brightly colored thread to make it easier to see the whipping technique. However, you must use the dark thread provided, to produce the result 9. Use thin thread to simulate the steel banding. shown in Step 14. To avoid an unsightly knot, make a loop near 8. When the glue is dry, smooth off the corners of one end and lay it under the stock. Then start the stock using a small piece of fine sandpaper. wrapping around the stock, toward the loop.

10 11 1211

10. When you have enough turns, take 11. Gently pull the free end of the 12. Apply a drop of superglue; it will the free end of the thread through the thread until the loop and the end of the soak into the binding and secure the loop and hold it tight. wrapping disappear under the binding. thread permanently.

13 14 15

13. Use a sharp knife to trim off both 14. The correct knot to use 15. Then take the short end behind ends of the thread flush with the for the mooring line is a the long one and tuck it through binding. Then add three more bindings fisherman’s bend. Start by the turn you just made. in the same way in the positions shown taking a turn through the in step 16. brass ring. Note 16 that the wooden stock should be at right angles to the anchor

16. Finish off by making another half-hitch, then tighten the knot by holding the long end and pulling on the short one.

20 ™ Pack 3 The parts provided include four precision laser-cut sections to extend the hull of Victory, and all the components for the first of the two , or “smashers,” she carried on deck for close-quarters engagements.

Parts 15 Center of rib frame

Part 2 Extension of internal “keel” Part 9 Bracing pieces Bow formers

Where the parts fit 15 9

Victory’s hull is built on a series of “U”-shaped rib frames that run 2 the length of the ship. The ribs slot into an internal “keel” Bracing pieces running from bow to stern below the gun decks. The parts reinforce this joint provided are the extension of the internal keel (2), part of a rib that slots into it (15), and two more formers for the bow (9).

Carronade The components

Small Parts The parts that make up the are very small, so make sure that none of the components shown (right) is missing before you assemble it as shown later in this pack. Note there are 10 eyebolts (on the left of the picture) and three pins (far right, top), of which two are not used until later.

21 ™ Extending the internal “keel” The largest wooden piece provided extends the main framework of Victory’s hull toward the stern. You can fix this and the bow formers now, using the glue provided with Pack 1, but don’t attach the ribs permanently until you have collected more parts to build up the framework of the hull.

1 2

1. The extension of the internal “keel” (2) has an end joint that 2. Lay the keel down flat. Before the glue has dried, apply glue fits onto the bow section (1). Apply a little glue to the contact to each of the bracing pieces, covering the surface as shown. area and join the parts together. 3 4

3. Fit one bracing piece to each side of the “keel.” Ensure that 4. Clamp the assembly together firmly. It is quite easy to the tops align with the top of the “keel” and that the bracing dislodge the bracing pieces as you do this, so make sure that pieces don’t cover slots 15 and 16. they are still in the correct position, then set aside to dry.

5 Quick Tip You can slot the “U”-shaped rib frames into the bow assembly to see Victory’s hull start to take shape, but don’t glue them yet as it’s important to align them with the frames that are yet to come.

5. Glue the straight edges (but not the ends of the tabs) of the two bow formers (9). Push the tabs into the holes in the forward bulkhead, (also marked “9”). Check that the bow formers are in line with the existing ones, with an even gap between them, then set them aside to allow the glue to dry.

22 ™ Assembling the carronade This model of one of Victory’s two 68-pounder “smashers” is assembled in a similar way to the real thing, although some of the model parts are made of brass instead of iron and wood. Before you start Make sure you have all the parts shown in the exploded view (right) before you start. You will need: u Craft knife u Tweezers u Wire cutters u Long-nose pliers u Round-nose pliers u Flat needle file u Modeling vice u Micro drill u Wire-gauge drill bits (two sizes) u Pin hammer You also need superglue (as well as the glue provided with Pack 1), a panel pin and a cocktail stick. A magnifying glass may prove useful.

1

1. Use a craft knife to shave off any whiskers of wood attached to the three larger wooden components.

2 3

2. Following the diagrams at the top of page 24, mark the 3. Clamp the wooden base in a modeling vice and use a positions of the holes in the side of the wooden base and micro drill to drill the four holes in the side of the base. mark where the base, the rounded slide that goes on top, and The wire-gauge drill bit needs to be a fraction larger than the square mounting platform that goes under it fit together. the shaft of an eyebolt.

23 ™

Where to drill and position the wooden parts 1. Holes in the side of the wooden base 3. Holes through the base and slide

pivot hole

5 mm 10 mm 10 mm 15 mm 12.5 mm 22 mm 2. location of SLIDE AND mounting platform 26 mm The carriage of the carronade comes in three parts: the wooden base (with one rounded end); the upper slide (with two rounded ends); and the square mounting platform. Drill four holes in the sides of the base before assembly. Then glue all three parts together before drilling the seven holes (above) right through them. Note 7 mm 7 mm that the pivot hole is larger than the other six.

4 5 6

4. Apply a small amount of glue to the 5. Press the two components together, 6. Apply a little glue to the rounded end underside of the slide and wipe off any aligning the positioning marks, and of the base and glue the mounting surplus. allow the glue to dry. platform in line with the marked point.

Expert tip 7 8 Drill all the holes using a modeler’s micro drill (Archimedean drill) and wire-gauge drill bits (below). The latter come in sets – the higher the number, the smaller the drill. You normally need a No. 65 and a No. 72 to drill the wood, but check by drilling a test hole to make sure that a pin and eyebolt will fit. The brass parts (see next page) need a No. 62.

7. Following the diagrams, mark the 8. Clamp the base in a modeling vice positions of the holes in the side of the and use a micro drill to drill the six wooden base and the rounded slide eyebolt holes and one pivot hole right that goes on top. through all the parts. 24 ™

1 Where to drill and bend the pivot The pivot is made from the thin brass strip, supplied oversize. Mark the dimensions as shown. 5 mm 3 mm 5 mm

larger larger hole hole 1. Following the dimensions on the left, measure the small 3 mm dead 3 mm brass strip and score lines at the marked points (including the center total 13 mm length required) using the point of a craft knife.

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Expert Tip To hold the brass strip for drilling, stick it to a piece of double-sided tape (or masking tape wound backward) on a block of scrap wood. 2. Snip off any surplus from the end of the brass strip. Take care, as the small piece will fly off with some force.

3 4

3. Gently punch marks for three drill holes at the points 4. Drill the three holes using your micro drill, taking care not indicated on the diagram above, using the point of a to apply too much pressure and snap the drill bit on the sharp panel pin. relatively hard material.

5 6 7

5. The two end holes need to be larger 6. Use long-nose modeling pliers to 7. Trim the end of the brass wire square than the center one. Check that the bend the brass strip into a square U with a flat needle file and bend it brass wire will slip through. shape as shown. straight if necessary. 25 ™

8 9

8. Cut a length of brass wire to fit through the arms of the U 9. Ensure that the pivot on the carronade is square to the shape you just made. File the cut end square, leaving a short barrel. If necessary, twist it into place and fix it with superglue. amount projecting on both sides. Then place a drop of superglue in the hole in the pivot.

10 11

10. Glue the short length of brass wire into the hole, leaving an 11. Insert one of the three brass pins through the center of the equal amount projecting on both sides. brass “U” and pull the head level with the metal.

12 13

12. Holding the pin, spring the two arms of the “U” over the 13. Apply glue to the projecting pin and the underside of the projecting ends of the brass wire. Pinch the arms together with brass “U” and insert the pin through the center hole in the slide. the pliers to complete the barrel mounting.

Custom Finishing You have the choice of leaving the materials of the carronade in their natural finish to show the construction of the model or painting them to look even more like the original on Victory. In the latter case, you may wish to touch in the brass pivot with a little black modeling paint. It’s easiest to do this now, before adding the eyebolts and other fittings around the outer edges of the wooden base.

26 ™

Eyebolts

Adding the eyebolts 8 2 6 4 10 and pulley blocks Use this overhead view of the finished Carronade assembly to see where to position the 10 eyebolts. Note that the rear two are wired to the two small wooden pulley blocks. As described below, you must do this before gluing the eyebolts into the wooden base as it will be almost impossible to twist the wire afterward. The eyebolts and pulley blocks will be used at a later stage to attach the ropes that hold the carronade in place on the deck. 7 1 5 3 9

1 2

1. Gently file one end of the smallest piece of wood into a 2. Insert the cross-shaped elevating screw through the eye in shallow wedge shape to form the quoin that goes under the the end of the barrel. Then glue the wedge under the thickest barrel of the carronade. Cut the wedge to around 3 mm long part of the barrel, ensuring that it clears the elevating screw. (inset). This piece is small and can easily become lost once it’s cut off, so pay close attention.

3 4

3. Glue the first two of the 10 brass eyebolts (numbers 1 and 2 4. Glue six of the other eyebolts (numbers 3-8) through the in the picture at the top of the page) into the front holes in the top of the base, noting that they go in different directions (see sides of the wooden base, ensuring that the flat of the eyes above). Snip off all the projecting ends of the eyebolts and the lies parallel to the edge of the wood. pin holding the barrel, then file them flush with the base.

27 ™

5 6 7

5. Take the shaped piece of brass and 6. Snip off short lengths of brass wire to 7. Superglue the holes in the two small use long-nose pliers to bend it into a fit through the holes at each end of the wheels, slip each one into the channel “U” shape along the marked lines. channel and file both ends square. and insert the wire to form axles.

8 9

8. Glue the completed assembly to the end of the base to form 9. Snip off about 2 inches of the fine wire and lace through one the carronade’s side-to-side training wheels. of the remaining eyebolts, leaving equal lengths projecting.

10 11 12

10. Use a pair of pliers to form a loose 11. Take one of the wooden blocks and 12. Then use round-nose loop through the eye, then twist the wrap the free ends of the wire around it. pliers to form another eye free ends to secure the loop. Twist the ends to secure the block. in the free ends of the wire, and twist to secure it. 13 13. Snip off the ends of the wire, then glue the eyebolt into one of the remaining holes in the side of the base as shown right. Repeat the assembly of the other block in the same way.

28 ™ Pack 4 The components provided include 13 precision laser- cut parts to complete the bow framing and assemble another of Victory’s rib frames.

Parts 11a Parts 10 Parts 11 Bow formers Bow formers Bow formers

Parts 7 Bow formers

Part 16 Parts 15a, 15b Parts 7a Rib frame Rib frames Bow former supports Where the parts fit 15a 7a 16 15b 7

11a Victory’s bow is built up around a series of closely spaced curved 11 formers that slot into the forward bulkhead. The planking is fixed to 10 these, and the “U”-shaped rib frames that run the full length of the ship, slotting into an internal “keel” that runs from bow to stern. The parts provided complete the bow framing. 29 ™ The bow framing Victory’s bow planking forms a tight curve. For this reason, the model – like the ship herself – has a series of closely spaced formers to make a framework that gives the planking a good support.

1 2

1. Apply a little glue to the straight edges of the two number 2. Repeat the process to add the two number 11 bow formers, 10 formers, then press them into place, ensuring that they are followed by both the number 11a formers, which fit alongside at right angles to the forward bulkhead. the number 11 formers.

3 4

3. Glue the long tab on one of the two small cross shapes (7a) 4. As you did with the previous ribs, apply a little glue to the into the slot in part 7. Glue the other tab into the bulkhead. two joints that attach parts15a and 15b to the main section of Ensure the curve on part 7 is the right way up (below right). rib 15.

5

Ensure you fit part 7 the right way up, as shown

Do not glue 5. Add parts 15a and 15b, then lay any ribs in place the completed rib assembly to one yet. Note rib 16 is side to allow the glue to dry, incomplete at ensuring that the parts are straight this stage and level.

30 ™ Pack 5 The components provided include six precision laser-cut parts to continue building up the rib frames for the hull of Victory. Part 18 Rib frame

Parts 17a, 17b Part 16a, 16b Rib frame Rib frame

Part 17 Rib frame Where the parts fit 18 17 16

Victory’s hull is built up around a series of “U”-shaped rib frames that run the full length of the ship, slotting into the internal “keel” that runs from bow to stern. The parts provided – 16, 17 and 18 – are parts of the remaining ribs in her forward section.

31 ™

1 2

1. Take the center section of rib frame 16 (supplied with the 2. Attach the two wing sections (16a and 16b) to complete the previous pack) and apply a little glue to the dovetail joints on rib frame. Ensure that the parts are lined up flush and lay the both sides. frame down flat to dry.

3 4

3. Repeat the process, using the three sections you received to 4. After joining the parts, make sure the joints are in line, then assemble rib frame 17. set the frame aside to dry flat.

Quick Tip To see more of the forward section of Victory’s hull taking shape, you can loosely assemble the rib frames. Do not glue them at this stage.

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