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Women, Consumption, and the Circulation of Ideas in South-Eastern Europe, 17Th–19Th Centuries

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Women, Consumption, and the Circulation of Ideas in South-Eastern Europe, 17Th–19Th Centuries Women, Consumption, and the Circulation of Ideas in South-Eastern Europe, 17th–19th Centuries Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access Balkan Studies Library Editor-in-Chief Zoran Milutinović (University College London) Editorial Board Gordon N. Bardos (Columbia University) Alex Drace-Francis (University of Amsterdam) Jasna Dragović-Soso (Goldsmiths, University of London) Christian Voss (Humboldt University, Berlin) Advisory Board Marie-Janine Calic (University of Munich) Lenard J. Cohen (Simon Fraser University) Radmila Gorup (Columbia University) Robert M. Hayden (University of Pittsburgh) Robert Hodel (Hamburg University) Anna Krasteva (New Bulgarian University) Galin Tihanov (Queen Mary, University of London) Maria Todorova (University of Illinois) Andrew Wachtel (Northwestern University) VOLUME 20 The titles published in this series are listed at brill.com/bsl Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access Women, Consumption, and the Circulation of Ideas in South-Eastern Europe, 17th–19th Centuries Edited by Constanța Vintilă-Ghițulescu LEIDEN | BOSTON Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access Cover illustration: Constantin Lecca, Neaga, Wife of the Merchant Ionaşcu. Courtesy Museum of Art, Craiova, Romania. The Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available online at http://catalog.loc.gov LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2017035406 Typeface for the Latin, Greek, and Cyrillic scripts: “Brill”. See and download: brill.com/brill-typeface. issn 1877-6272 isbn 978-90-04-35498-2 (hardback) isbn 978-90-04-35509-5 (e-book) Copyright 2018 by Koninklijke Brill NV, Leiden, The Netherlands. Koninklijke Brill NV incorporates the imprints Brill, Brill Hes & De Graaf, Brill Nijhoff, Brill Rodopi and Hotei Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, translated, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission from the publisher. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use is granted by Koninklijke Brill NV provided that the appropriate fees are paid directly to The Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Suite 910, Danvers, MA 01923, USA. Fees are subject to change. This book is printed on acid-free paper and produced in a sustainable manner. Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access Contents Acknowledgements vii List of Illustrations viii Notes on Contributors x Introduction 1 Constanța Vintilă-Ghițulescu 1 Translating Imperial Practices, Knowledge, and Taste Across the Mediterranean: Giulio Ferrario and Ignatius Mouradgea d’Ohsson 12 Giulia Calvi 2 French Residents and Ottoman Women in 18th-Century Levant: Personal Relations, Social Control, and Cultural Interchange 47 David Celetti 3 Women’s Fashion in Dalmatia at the End of the 18th Century 65 Katarina Nina Simončič 4 A Dialogue of Sources: Greek Bourgeois Women and Material Culture in the Long 18th Century 95 Artemis Yagou 5 “Curls and Forelocks”: Romanian Women’s Emancipation in Consumption and Fashion, 1780–1850 124 Constanța Vintilă-Ghițulescu 6 European Fashion, Consumption Patterns, and Intercommunal Relations in the 19th-Century Ottoman Istanbul 150 Anastasia Falierou 7 Women in Merchant Families, Women in Trade in Mid-19th Century Romanian Countries 169 Nicoleta Roman Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access vi Contents 8 Women Travellers as Consumers: Adoption of Modern Ideas and Practices in 19th-Century Southeast Europe 200 Evguenia Davidova Index 227 Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access Acknowledgements This collective volume originates from the panel “Women, Consumption and the Circulation of Ideas in South-Eastern Europe, 17th–19th Centuries” held at the European Social Science History Conference (ESSHC), Valencia, Spain, 2016. This volume is the result of a team effort and I want to thank all the contribu- tors gathered around the LuxFaSS ERC Project, especially Evguenia Davidova and Nina Katarina Simončič for their involvement in the ESSHC panel and for contributing to this book. This book is the first output of the ERC-2014-CoG no. 646 489 grant, Luxury, Fashion, and Social Status in Early Modern Southeastern Europe (LuxFaSS), financed by the European Research Council and hosted by the New Europe College Institute for Advanced Study in Bucharest, Romania. My gratitude goes to the New Europe College who supported me during the preparation of the manuscript. I am particularly grateful to Anca Oroveanu and Constantin Ardeleanu for reading and commenting on the manuscript. My thanks to Iuliu Raţiu and Elizabeth Ramsey for checking and editing all the chapters, and for their readiness to render the manuscript more readable. I also wish to thank the anonymous reviewers for their useful and valuable comments and suggestions which were precious for the improvement of the manuscript. Special thanks to Ivo Romein at Brill Publishers for his enthusiasm and courtesy, and to Alex Drace-Francis for his encouragement and unwaver- ing friendly help. Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access List of Illustrations 1.1 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau générale de l’Empire Othoman, Paris 1787, Tome 1, figs. 1–2. Adam et Eve; Assomption de Mohammed 31 1.2 G. Ferrario, Il costume antico e moderno, vol. 4 (Milan 1827), fig. 30 32 1.3 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau générale, Tome 1, Musulmane faisante la prière, fig. 15 32 1.4 Ferrario, Il costume, vol.4, fig.35 33 1.5 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau général, tome 1, Enfans Musulmans dans le jour de leur Circoncision; Animaux destinés aux sacrifice, figs. 20–21 33 1.6 Ferrario, Il costume, vol. 4, fig. 36 34 1.7 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau général, tome 1, Fig. 33, Bibliothèque publique 34 1.8 Ferrario, Il costume, vol. 4, tav. 45 35 1.9 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau general (Paris, 1790) tome 2, figs. 89–90 Danseuse publique 35 1.10 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau général, tome 2, Figs. 91–92, Tschenky, ou danseur publique 36 1.11 Ferrario, Il costume, vol. 4, fig. 62 36 1.12 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau général, tome 2, fig. 93, La Romeca. Danse des femmes Grecques 37 1.13 Ferrario Il costume, fig.63 37 1.14 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Tableau général, tome 2, figs. 79, 80, 81, 82 Mahometane voilée, Egyptienne voilée, Européenne couverte d’un schal, Eutopéenne couverte d’un mahhrama 38 1.15 Ferrario, Il costume, vol. 4, tav. 60 39 1.16 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Mahometane voilée, Egyptienne voilée, Européenne couverte d’un schal, Eutopéenne couverte d’un mahhrama 39 1.17 Ferrario tav. 60 40 1.18 Mouradgea d’Ohsson, Frontispiece 41 1.19 G. Compagnoni, Storia dell’Impero Ottomano, Frontispiece 42 3.1 Johann Van Der Bruggen “REGNUM DALMATIAE 1737”, Vienna 1737 68 3.2 Lace, Collection from Dobrota, Kotor 74 3.3 Alberto Fortis: Young women from Zadar, 18th century (Alberto Fortis, Put po Dalmaciji [Travels into Dalmatia], (Split: 2004), 17) 75 3.4 Jacket-bodice of red silk, 1770s, Museum of town Split, Split, Croatia (inventory number MGS-837) 78 Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access List Of Illustrations ix 3.5 Jacket-bodice and skirt, 18th century, Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb, Croatia (inventory number 10250 of jacket—bodice and skirt—MUO 6013) 79 3.6 Portrait of Katarina Righi Budmani, from the end of 18th century, Rector’s Palace in Dubrovnik, Croatia (inventory number: DUM KPM SL-295) 81 3.7 Petar Katušić: Portrait of Ane Ghetaldi Saraca (Saraka), around 1781, Rector’s Palace in Dubrovnik, Croatia (inventory number DUM KPM SL-188) 82 3.8 Alberto Fortis: Young women from Makarska, 18th century Ivan Lovrić, Bilješke o putu po Dalmaciji opata Alberta Fortisa [Notes on ‘Travels in Dalmatia], tabla V (Zagreb: 1948) 86 5.1 Anonymous painter (1810–1820)—Smaranda Catargi, The Chancellor’s Wife 130 5.2 Anonymous painter (1810–1820) – Zinca Samurcaş, The Majordom’s Wife 132 5.3 Iosif August Schoefft, Portrait of woman, 1830 138 5.4 Ludovic Stawski—Bucur Family—1848 145 5.5 Constantin Rosenthal—România Revoluţionară, 1848 147 7.1 “Győr” faience of Habana inspiration (cahle habane), 18th century 172 7.2 Travel trunks, end of 18th century—beginning of 19th century 178 7.3 Women accessory made by jewellers of Brașov, 19th century 184 7.4 Safta Castrișoaia, wife of merchant Gheorghe Castrișiu, the Macedonian (Bucharest, Wallachia, around 1850–1860), in Mariana Vida, Elena Olariu, Epoca Biedermeier în Țările Române (1815–1859) (București: Editura Muzeul Național de Artă al României, 2014) 194 Constana Vintilă-Ghiulescu - 9789004355095 Downloaded from Brill.com06/17/2019 04:32:49PM via free access Notes on Contributors Giulia Calvi is Professor of Early Modern History in the Department of Scienze Storiche e dei Beni Culturali at the University of Siena. From 2004 to 2012 she held the Chair of Gender History in Europe and the World (XVI–XIX) in the Department of History and Civilization at the European University Institute in Florence. In 2012 she was appointed to the Chair of Italian Culture in the Italian Studies Dept. at the University of California (Berkeley). In 2013 she was Kratter Visiting Professor in the Department of History at the University of Stanford. She was visiting professor at the EHESS in Paris and Marseille in 2001 and 2011. From 2003 to 2007 she was a member of the Advisory Committee of Villa I Tatti. The Harvard Centre for Italian Renaissance Studies (Florence, Italy). She is a member of the scientific committee of the Istituto per la Storia del Mediterraneo at the CNR in Rome.
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