June 2009 No

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C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JUNE 2009 NO. 165 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

The Little Island's Big Regatta WILFRED DEDERER JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

KATCHOR LEE WOLFF The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore The Katchorscan’tstayaway 18 Cuba, YetAgain Will, graceandgratitude Antigua Classics Cruising Kids’Corner 34 ...... 33 Cartoons ...... Sailors’ Horoscope Island Poets 33 ...... Word SearchPuzzle 32 ...... Cruising Crossword Meridian Passage 24 ...... 18 Destinations ...... 16 Regatta News...... 8 Business Briefs ...... See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass [email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution - Cees de Jong Distribution-CeesdeJong Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwritten permissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2009 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction, copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionor printingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissions maybeeditedforlengthandclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompass PublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby www.caribbeancompass.com JUNE 2009•NUMBER165 ...... 33 ...... 32 ...... 14 ...... DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 Advertisers’ Index 47 ...... 47 Classified Ads ...... Sailors’ Shots 44 Caribbean Marketplace...... What’s onMyMind Readers’ Forum 38 ...... 37 Cooking withCruisers ...... Book Reviews 36 ...... This CruisingLife 35 ...... 34 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... e,wtdyaor .....35 A wet,wetdayaboard ...... Rainy Thoughts Compass Brunch Time! Street says‘Doit!’ Summer Cruising 20 Know whytheyblow ...... Hurricanes Understanding Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Cell: (473)457-2151Office:444-3222 Ad Sales&Distribution-KarenMaaroufi Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: wiesgte ....26 writersgather ...... Distribution-GladysJones ...... 45 ...... Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Distribution -LisaKessell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado ...... 24 ...... 42 ......

Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED at theBequiaEasterRegatta2009 Cover photobyWilfredDederer: Bequiadouble-endersracing [email protected] 30 –1Aug 29 8 7 tel(599)544-2075,fax544-2091,[email protected] 6 –7 www.csbf-guadeloupe.com 6 –7 6 5 1 JUNE 31 31 21 20 -21 inmanyfishingcommunities www.optiworld.org 30 –July8 29 28 -July5 26 –29 25 -27 24 21 20 –27 (Queen’sBirthdayUKcelebrated)andBVI(TerritoryDay) 20 -21 20 19 CorpusChristi.Publicholidayinmanyplaces 13 www.jamaicaculture.org/jazz 14 –21 [email protected] CarnivalinSt.John,USVI 6 –7 (Emancipation 6 (WEYC),Tortola,BVI,tel(284)495-1002,fax495-4184, 4 Day) [email protected], 3 -4 3 www.weyc.net 2 1 JULY 27 26 –3Aug 25 -27 25 24 -26 24 20 18 14 tel(284)494-3286,[email protected], www.rbviyc.net 11 -Aug1 RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYacht Club(RBVIYC), 11 –19 11 10 -12 10 7 Queen’sBirthday(UK).Publicholiday FULL St.MaartenLaserRegatta.YachtClub(SMYC), MOON LabourDay.PublicholidayinTheBahamas WhitMonday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces IndependenceDay(USA).Publicholiday CuraçaoFlagDay.Publicholiday Public holiday FULL MOON If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREEinourmonthlycalendar, arao hlrnsEuainFn olc abce CarriacouChildren’sEducationFundPotluckBarbecue, Schoelcher Day.Publicholiday ihra’ itdy(t ee’ a) otaddnh ae Fisherman’sBirthday(St.Peter’sDay).Boatanddinghyraces BattleofCaraboboDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela Summer St.JeanPursuitRace,Martinique Solstice LabourDay.Publicholiday Public holiday JoséCelso Barbosa’sBirthday.Publicholiday ConstitutionDay.Publicholiday BirthofSimónBolívar.PublicholidayinVenezuela LuisMuñoz Rivera’sBirthday.Publicholiday BastilleDay.Publicholiday IndependenceDay.Publicholiday 17thAnnualFirecracker500Race,Tortola,BVI.WestEndYachtClub h ane eat,Crl pri uBsd-ot(SF, TheSaintesRegatta,CercleSportifduBas-du-Fort(CSBF),

13thAnnualSt.KittsMusicFestival.www.stkittsmusicfestival.net RebellionDays.Publicholiday USVILifestyleFestival,St.Thomas.www.usvimf.com ChiefMinister’sCupYouthRegatta,Tortola. St.LuciaCarnival.www.luciancarnival.com CharlottevilleFishermanFestival,Tobago 19thAnnualJamaicaOchoRiosIntl.JazzFestival. All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledgeattime Harris PaintsRegattas,Barbados arao hlrnsEuainFn hrt uto, Carriacou Children’sEducationFundCharityAuction, Somer’s Day. www.sailbarbados.com/iom.html International OneMetreWorldChampionshipRegatta,Barbados. Caribbean One-DesignKeelboatChampionships,St.Maarten.SMYC St. VincentCarnival(VincyMas). Public holiday Emancipation Day.Publicholiday Calabash Festival,Montserrat.www.visitmontserrat.com Public holiday Volcano Anniversary. Bequia’s 14thAnnualFisherman’sDay,[email protected] please sendthenameanddate(s)of eventandthename HIHOWindsurfingWeek,BVI.www.go-hiho.com OANrhAeia hminhp,DmncnRpbi. IODANorthAmericanChampionships,DominicanRepublic. TobagoHeritageFestival.Tel(868)639-4441

44thAnnualCarriacouRegattaFestival.www.carriacouregatta.com so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. this issueof and contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto Canouan Carnival.Tel(784)4588197

Public holiday

nCya sad n otert in CaymanIslandsandMontserrat in Antigua(VereBirdSr.Day)andSuriname(Eid-ul-Fitr) in CaymanIslands(ConstitutionDay)andGuyana in St.Vincent&theGrenadines.www.carnivalsvg.com Compass CALENDAR [email protected].

Public holiday wenttopress—butplanschange,

in FrenchWestIndies in Trinidad

in Bermuda

in Cuba

in FrenchWestIndies in PuertoRico

in Curaçao in USVI

in TheBahamas

in Montserrat

in Anguilla

in PuertoRicoandUSVI.

in PuertoRico

JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 The precautionary measures in both the BVI and measures in both the The precautionary travel WHO is not recommending Meanwhile, the Navigation Note, Martinique are four fishtrap lines Jeremy Hobday reports: There Marine Park Grenada’s Beausejour-Moliniere Chris Doyle reports: It’s worth knowing that yacht Please observe the following: • Priority for moorings is given to local commercial —Continued on next page proceeding to any other destinations in Carriacou, any other destinations in Carriacou, proceeding to in at or Grenada. After you check Petite Martinique Authority the Yacht Club, the Health Hillsborough or on pass that must be produced will issue you a signs of flu- who disembark having request. All persons detained for further screening. like illness will be in place until further notice. Grenada will be virus. The to the outbreak of the restrictions related says, “Limiting travel and WHO website, www.who.int, have very little effect imposing travel restrictions would but would be on stopping the virus from spreading, community… Although highly disruptive to the global of influenza in travel- identifying signs and symptoms of the outbreak, it will not lers can help track the path as the virus can be reduce the spread of influenza, person before the transmitted from person to onset of symptoms.” point of Martinique. off Cap Ferre, the easternmost white float, but have at They are marked with a small (interspersed with very least 100 feet of floating line the line stays on the sur- small floats just to make sure of water, about 3/4 face) and are in 75 to 100 meters of a mile offshore. moorings are available in the Marine Park on Grenada’s west coast. There are four in Flamingo Bay close to the reef on the south side, two in Dragon’s Bay, five on Moliniere Point near the underwater sculptures, and one on the north side of Grand Mal Bay. You have to attach your own line (leaving plenty of scope) to these moorings. There are currently no fees being collected. vessels (dive and day-charter boats), which often use them between 0930 and 1630. There is almost no commercial traffic after 1630, so visiting yachts are welcome to use them overnight. If you are staying during the day, you are welcome to take one if it is not in use, but if it is the last one and a day-charter boat arrives, please vacate it till another becomes free. Similarly, all yachts ing to visit Jost Van Dyke, Anegada or any other sister islands must first clear Customs at one of the designated locations. Visitors who fail to comply with the new procedures may be charged with illegal entry into the Territory. Cargo vessels docking in the BVI will continue to be processed at Port Purcell. arriving in Grenada during the current period of surveillance for Swine Flu will only be processed through two designated ports of entry: Hillsborough, and knowledgeable staff yachts of all sizes are on hand 24 hours a day to welcome from 20ft to 300ft. to purchase on a 30-year lease, please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Port and our friendly Louis is owned and operated by Camper & Nicholsons Marinas, For more information about securing a berth at Port Louis, including the opportunity Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7432 or email [email protected] Port Louis Marina – just one more reason to visit the ‘Spice Island’. SANDY PITT implemented in the BVI to mitigate the impact of implemented in the BVI to mitigate on the Territory. Her Swine Flu [influenza A(H1N1)] an advisory stating that Majesty’s Customs has issued for yachts and all Customs clearance procedures will only be processed other non-commercial vessels of entry: Road Town through three designated ports in Tortola, and the and West End ferry terminals Virgin Gorda. Yachts wish- Spanish Town ferry dock in Carriacou, and St. George’s (at the Grenada Yacht Club), Grenada. You must clear Customs, Immigration and Health at Hillsborough or the Yacht Club before WEST INDIES

of a beautifully appointed, fully serviced marina – located in the lagoon adjacent and with an international airport just five miles away, Port Louis is the ideal base for and with an international airport just five miles away, exploring the wonderful islands of the Grenadines. dockside facilities and marina-wide wi-fi all contribute to making your stay safe and relaxed. to the island’s capital, St George’s. to the island’s Now, with Port Louis, visiting yachts can enjoy the security and convenience Now, Grenada’s southern cruising, including the summer months, location allows for year-round Grenada’s Grenada remains one of the most unspoilt and welcoming cruising destinations in the Caribbean. www.cnportlouismarina.com ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA ITALY As a Port of Entry, it’s easy to clear in and out through Port Louis, and our 24-hour it’s As a Port of Entry, security, Port to visit Grenada Louis Marina – another great reason BVI & Grenada Implement ‘Swine Flu’ BVI & Grenada Implement Check-In Changes by the World Health Following an announcement procedures were Starting May 1st, new clearance At least for now, the only place yachts can clear in on the island of Grenada is the Grenada Yacht Club (above) in St. George’s Lagoon. The BVI has also limited its yacht entry ports during the swine flu alert

& Updates & Info Organisation (WHO) that the global influenza pan- Organisation (WHO) that the to Phase 5, the British Virgin demic alert was increased made changes to their Islands and Grenada have for yachts. Customs clearance procedures JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 there maynotberoomtoanchorinthesandpatch. to anchorinsandFlamingoBay.InDragon’sBay — in Grenada’sleewardcoastmarinepark Mooring andanchoringoptionsarebothavailable Use amooringifoneisavailable.Ifnot,itpossible

Continued frompreviouspage CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS Commission, thenewCumberlandBeachRecreation the GrenadinesandfundingfromEuropean from securityconcerns. on St.Vincent,buthasalsosufferedovertheyears known asoneofbestandmostbeautifulanchorages locals atCumberlandBay.Bayiswell service andrecreationfacilityforbothcruisers Valley Eco-TourismOrganisationtorunanewvisitor- plans ofthecommunity-basedNGOCumberland Vincent ispoisedforamajorupgrade,thankstothe Joseph CatholicChurch,atacostofEC$17,000. co-financed bytheTCMP,UnicleanandSt. facility andtopayanattendant.Thereceptaclewas used forthegeneralupkeepof eration isanticipated.Thefeewillbe depositing yourgarbage.Yourcoop- use thefacility. Business houseswillnotbeallowedto yachts andvegetablevendors. intended onlyforgarbagefrom been commissioned.Thereceptacleis April, anewgarbagereceptaclehas managed inasustainableway.Asof Union IslandintheGrenadines,are disposal attheCliftonwaterfront,on ensure thatgarbagecollectionand (TCMP) iscontinuingitseffortsto out whereitcanlitterthereef. paper inthegarbage;donotpumpit If youmustdoso,throwanytoilet not pumpyourheadwhileinthepark. bilge whileinthepark.Ifpossible,do amounts ofdetergent,orpumpyour Do notusebleachorcopious snorkeling. Thrownothingofftheboat. areas andveryclosetocoralreefs,whichisgreatfor to anchoronthesouthsideofbay. coral orsculpture.InGrandMalthereisatonofroom really isnowheretoanchorthatwillnotdamagethe With supportfromthegovernmentofSt.Vincent& The mixedreputationoftheleewardcoastSt. Dinghy DockandMoreforCumberland,St.Vincent Pay afeeofEC$1perbagwhen The TobagoCaysMarinePark in UnionIsland New YachtTrashDepot • Allofthemooringsareinecologicallysensitive In Moliniere,themooringsshouldbeused,asthere Dark ViewFalls. Trail forbirdwatchingandthespectacular,multi-drop nearby rainforest,includingtheCumberlandNature be arrangedforvisitstonaturalattractionsinthe the PortPolice. have hadcommunitymemberstrainedinsecurityby of thesecurityconcernsvisitingyachtspeople,and summer thisyear.TheNGOmembersarewellaware begun, andisexpectedtobecompletedbylate cricket. Constructionofthecomplexhasalready and gamessuchasvolleyball,bocceball(boules)or also ampleflatlandthatcouldbeusedforpicnics north sideoftheriverthatbisectsbeach.Thereis and areasforlocalhandicraftsales,alllocatedonthe taurant, mini-market,washrooms,alaundryfacility Park isdesignedtoincludeadinghydock,office,res- —Continuedonnextpage sailors andVincentiansalike include servicesandrecreationfacilitiesforvisiting the flatlandseenbehindyachtinthisphoto,will The newCumberlandBeachPark,beingdevelopedon In additiontothenewfacilitiesonsite,guidescan JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 is in fact , the lower photo in Three Harkoms we welcome aboard new Compass will appear next month instead. . Compass Barra Compass Piggy was also very much involved in the very much involved in the Piggy was also

The article “Ten Things to Do in Trinidad” promised for Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Thanks for Cary Byerley for information in this report. Thanks for Cary Byerley for information Cruisers’ Site-ings preparing to visit the • Julia Bartlett reports: Folks that was filmed in St. • The CNN Mainsail program is back in the • World solo sailor Donna Lange Errata In last month’s issue of the report on the Rolex Regatta on page 13 is misla- beled. The boat identified as this issue of advertisers IGY with The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol and Simpson Bay Marina of St. Maarten on page 11, American Yacht Harbor of St. Thomas on page 26 and Rodney Bay Marina of St. Lucia on page 47; and Sea Shells Apartments of Bequia on page 21. Good to have you with us! Shayne. He bought into Seagull Services with into Seagull Services Shayne. He bought Barbuda and also invested in Flemming Niehorster Express. in Club, and was Vice Commodore Antigua Yacht the MC dur- have been best known as 1998; he may Yacht Club. Week’s Lay Day at the ing Antigua Sailing Yacht with the Antigua Classic He also helped that is put on Fincham Follies, a cabaret Regatta and to raise the Nicholson Charter Show every year at missed. in Antigua. He will be money for charities coast of Venezuela island of Margarita off the north by Robert the Wi-Fi will find the new website prepared www.wifiguy.co.cc. It con- Guy very useful. Check out glance, information on tains the latest weather at a to do and places to local services, security (what links to a whole horde of avoid), the local wi-fi service, as sailing sites, 1001 useful and fun websites as well Wi-Fi Guy radio, plus a things to do with a can of tuna, whole lot more. at www.cnn.com/mainsail. Barths in March is available gold medalist Shirley CNN Mainsail’s double Olympic Bucket Regatta. Robertson sailed in the St. Barths a cause. Check out her Caribbean, and cruising with marine conservation latest adventures in promoting and aiding coastal communities in developing Caribbean countries at http://oceanswatch.org/ north-america/story/exploratory-trip-haiti. the Morris 48

ISHWAR PERSAD to Flica II , long-time Compass . , with a friend. Paul sailed Sealestial Flica II Yachtsmen can call at the Port of Little Bay. call at the Port of Little Bay. Yachtsmen can Paul van Beek In Memory of last month’s As reported in in Antigua, Paul decid- Having bought a plot of land Caribbean charter skipper Paul “Piggy” van Beek, skipper Paul “Piggy” van Caribbean charter At age in 1947, died on March 17th. born in England charter one of the early Caribbean 24, Paul bought boats, work there, he sailed her Bequia, but not finding any a boat was not to Europe. Learning that owning Jojo Tobitt, took up run- cheap, he and his girlfriend, including the famous ning other people’s boats, Ocean 71 Immigration information and downloadable Customs and downloadable Immigration information on the MTB website, forms are available www.visitmontserrat.com. and their daughter, ed to build a house for Jojo Continued from previous page Continued from Montserrat Welcomes More Yachts Montserrat Welcomes More (MTB) is happy to The Montserrat Tourist Board The Cumberland Beach Recreation Park is part of a Beach Recreation Park The Cumberland Montserrat’s efforts to welcome yachts have paid off with a big increase in arrivals Montserrat’s efforts to welcome yachts have paid off with at the island’s port of entry, Little Bay announce that the yachting sector has seen a 62-per- announce that the yachting since 2005. Up from 219 cent increase in yacht arrivals in 2008 reached 354 yacht arrivals in 2005, arrivals of 1,840 passengers yachts and brought a total to the island. program of developing sustainable tourism and recre- sustainable tourism program of developing with a the island of St. Vincent, along ation sites on to System, to create new employment National Parks sector. NGO of the island’s banana offset the decline maintain being trained to manage and members are those linking communities, especially sites in their own heritage and culture with the environment, of the island. — JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 through Grenada. repair andserviceneedswhilestayinginorpassing Contact SpiceIslandMarineforanyofyouryacht storage tototalyachtrefitsiseasilyaccommodated. all theircustomer’sneeds.Everythingfromseasonal enhance SpiceIslandMarine’sabilitytotakecareof new services,aswellJohn’sbackground,further ed, andmostefficientyardsintheCaribbean,these design, schematics,installations,andrepairs. electrical engineeringservicesforyachts,including GTech Marine,willbeabletoofferthefullrangeof decking andbrightwork.Anothernewaddition, by theyard,whichcanproducehigh-endjoinery, vice offerings.Oneisawoodworkingshop,managed Island Marinegreatlyimprovestheproductandser- are appreciatedbycustomers. detail havequicklybecomeassetsintheyardand Florida. Hisfriendlinessandmeticulousattentionto ing a30-acreboatyardand345-slipmarinainSouth ence intheindustry,includingmostrecentlymanag- Operations Manager.Johnhasawealthofexperi- Marine ServicesinPricklyBay,Grenada! BUSINESS BRIEFS QUIET CLEAN POWER a long life in a bullet proof package. a longlife inabulletproof ina6literengineensures Generating 135hpat amodest2600rpm make theM135acost effectivemake choice withsignificantowner savings over alternative engines. pricing, Competitive engineandparts and exceptionally intervals low service fuelconsumption extended integral plate inthetoughest sealsgivingprotection oil cooler conditions. and specialcrankshaft temperatures for exceptionally reliable anddurable performance. Leak free operation is ensured by an heatexchange Highcapacity tubestacksensure equipmentwithcupro-nickel low component operating points ineithersingleortwininstallations. designed to permit awiderange ofoperating anglesandalsooffers easyaccess to allroutine servicing The M135isanexcellent repower choice. initsclass, packages Oneofthemostcompact ithasbeen new 'QUADRAM' combustion system andfullyclosedbreather system. costs.service It’s operator andenvironment friendlywithlow noiseandlow emissions achieved withthe This naturally aspirated engineboastspremium enginefeatures for reliability, minimaldown timeand For moreinformationseeadonpage22. Already knownasoneofthecleanest,bestlocat- Also, theadditionoftwonewserviceswithinSpice John MorenhascomeonboardasthenewYard There areexcitingdevelopmentsatSpiceIsland Spice IslandMarineServicesUpdate Sabre M135 Sabre

sive yachtingguidesthatareperenniallypopular see adonpage29. www.marigotbay.com/pdfs/hurricane_info.pdf. downloaded from their ownanchor.Themarina’sHurricanePlancanbe feet andberthedwithtwogroundlines/buoys separated fromthedockandtheirneighboursby13 and tropicalstormconditionsallmooredyachtsare enjoy aluxurylaunchridetothefestivities.Inhurricane 20th and21st;callTheMarinatoreserveaberth culminates inatwo-dayparadeofthebandsonJuly the summer.Thisyear’sSt.Luciacarnivalcelebration getting bored.” there’s nochanceofanyourguests the restaurantsandbarsMarinaVillage,so hard times.We’rerightbythebeachandclosetoall sonal servicethatgivestruevalueformoneyinthese can keepourpricesdownandofferthekindofper- surviving muchbetterthanthebiggerhotels—we us. ThesmallerguesthousesinMarigotseemtobe hope,” saidproprietorJudithVerity,“andit’snotjust opening itsdoorsagain.“We’rebusierthanIdared Marigot Bay(www.mangobeachmarigot.com)is are closingforlackofguests,MangoBeachInnat live entertainmentmostevenings. bars andacoffeeshoprighthereinthebay— of RainforestHideaway.“Therearefiverestaurants,six and experiencingtheMarigotmagic,”saidChefJim want toseepeoplecomingbackthebayagain teurs andbarownershopetochangeallthat.“We proved tobeastrongerattraction.Marigotrestaura- nightclubs inthenorthernpartofislandhave over thepasttenyearsorso,restaurantsand spot forSt.Lucianswithfunandromanceinmind.But M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti M65 M92BM115TM135M225Ti M265Ti Cruising GuidePublicationspublishescomprehen- New EditionsofTopCruisingGuides For moreinformationonTheMarinaatMarigotBay The MarinaatMarigotBaywelcomesboatsover At atimewhenhotelsandrestaurantsworldwide Years ago,MarigotBaywasafavouritegetaway News fromSt.Lucia’sMarigotBay Call uson (284)4942830for adealernearyou. —Continuedonnextpage Caribbean yachtchartershows. discuss theissueofconflictingdatesfortwomajor Mediterranean YachtBrokersAssociation(MYBA)to ered inGenoarecentlyforaforumhostedbythe May 7th,charterbrokersfromaroundtheworldgath- tions arenowavailable. 14th editions,andthesenewfullyupdatededi- Guide totheWindwardIslands dleries intheislands,orfromwww.cruisingguides.com. obtain linkstolocalweather,newsandmore. maps andGPSwaypointsfromthesketchcharts, to theauthor’swebsitewhereyoucandownloadtown es, restaurantsandphotography.Informationislinked sections onexploring,provisioning,watersports,servic- scenic photography,unsurpassedonshoreinformation, the islandsfromMartiniquetoGrenada,withdazzling clear andconcisenavigationalinformation.Itcovers own surveys,aerialphotosofmostanchorages,and guide featuresdetailedsketchchartsbasedonDoyle’s Islands fromSt.ThomastoAnegada. 17” x27”colorplanningchartcoveringtheVirgin indispensable forsailorssince1982.Itincludesafree full colorsketchcharts,theVirginsguidehasbeen Guide totheVirginIslands selling guidesareNancyandSimonScott’s enthusiasts. Twooftheirlongest-runningandbest- cruising yachtsmen,scubadiversandwatersports waters oftheCaribbeanforbareboatcharterers, years theyhavebeenresearchingtheislandsand among cruisingandcharteringsailors.Forover30 As MichaelHoworthreportedto Forum PondersCaribbeanCharterShowConflict Both booksareavailableatbookstoresandchan- Revised andupdatedfor2009-2010,theWindwards Completely revisedandupdatedfor2009-2011with omp lete yr ly evis da ed du nd , andChrisDoyle’s pdat . Botharenowintheir df ed IBI Magazine r2 or 009- Cruising 2011 Sailors on wit JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Nanny Cay Resort and Marina is the host and pre- For more information www.nannycay.com. Flynn for Mega-Yachts Only? No Way! While Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica, is For more information senting sponsor of the BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival, the Nanny Cay Nations Cup, the KATS (Kids And The Sea) Swim programme and the KATS Premiers Cup. It is host to ARC Europe and the Caribbean 1500’s Atlantic Cup for the first time this year. capable of handling larger yachts than any other marina in the Caribbean, some folks seem to have gotten the idea that they only cater to the “big ones”. The marina’s manager, Dale Weston, says, “Nothing could be farther from the truth; in fact, we have yachts as small as 20 feet in the marina and we welcome any size vessel. Regardless of who or what you are, you’ll all get the same courteous, welcoming treatment that has become a tradition at Errol Flynn Marina.” visit www.errolflynnmarina.com. Today, maritime vocational training and certification is essential for those entering careers in Today, maritime vocational training and certification is Kellee Myers of Bequia, St. Vincent & the professional yachting and commercial shipping. Here, of Seamanship in Florida Grenadines, receives his diploma from the Chapman School Dean Miller says, “It was a great pleasure to work For more information on the Chapman School visit New Services at Nanny Cay, Tortola Two new businesses have recently opened at Nanny School, Stephen Miller. At the Chapman School, Kellee studied Seamanship, Rules of the Road, Marlinespike Seamanship, Weather, First Aid/CPR, Boat Handling, Piloting, Dead Reckoning & Electronic Navigation, and Boat & Engine Maintenance. In addition, he gained experience in close-quarter maneu- vering, docking and undocking, sailing, and man- overboard procedures, and earned the STCW-95 qualification. with Kellee and I am sure all of his instructors here at Chapman feel the same way. We all wish him the best of luck in his maritime career. We all are sure that he will go a long way and be very successful.” www.chapman.org. Cay Marina: Solé Spa, offering spa and personal care treatments; and Island Roots, a clothing and coffee shop. Cameron McColl, co-owner of the resort and marina, says, “We are constantly striving to improve the services we can offer our hotel and marina guests.” F D P G A P

. Kellee also participated in Piloting, Seamanship & Small T N E M E E R ' Yellowbird E B , because of their concern for the lack I A R A # The photo shows Kellee (at right) receiving his Kellee Myers of Paget Farm, Bequia, graduated Bequia Student Graduates from Chapman Seamanship Since opening its doors in 1971,the Chapman For more information on the Antigua Charter Yacht At the end of the session, Howorth wrote, there Forum delegates were divided as to which of the Forum delegates were divided Jeff Boyd, president of the SMTA, then offered to Jeff Boyd, president of the According to Howorth’s report, MYBA chairman Neil Howorth’s report, MYBA chairman According to Last year, the 47th annual charter show in Antigua 47th annual charter show in Last year, the Continued from previous page Continued from Diploma and Certificates from Dean of the Chapman Diploma and Certificates from Dean of the Chapman from the Chapman School on March 27th. Kellee, age from the Chapman School on March 27th. Kellee, age 19, is the son of Rosetta and Tim Myers of Bequia and is a 2008 graduate of the Bequia Seventh Day Adventist Secondary School. He was active in the Bequia Rotary Club’s sail-training programme, Bequia Youth and the Sea, and was captain of the programme’s J/24, the St. Vincent & the Grenadines Coast Guard’s educational summer programmes. of maritime vocational training other than at four-year institutions. Boat Handling School of Seamanship in Stuart, Florida, has provided maritime vocational training for over 16,000 students from around the world, including many from the Caribbean. The school was founded by the late Glen D. Castle and the late Charles Frederic Chapman, author of the best-selling Show visit www.antigua-charter-yacht-meeting.com. For more information on the St. Maarten Charter Show visit www.mybacaribbeanshow.com. remained no conclusive agreement and it seems that remained no conclusive agreement and it seems that the two shows will continue to go head to head, despite suggestions from delegates that doing so would badly affect the industry at a time when it was already suffering from the global financial situation. two Caribbean shows should become the chosen two Caribbean shows should of the yacht charter vehicle to promote the aims show alternate annual- industry. A suggestion that the Antigua was emphatical- ly between St. Maarten and speaking on behalf of the ly refused by Janetta Miller, a venue that has organizers of the event in Antigua, hosted a charter yacht show for the last 48 years. absolve the MYBA from that obligation to the 2010 absolve the MYBA from that were too far advanced show, but regretted that plans event. He did not speci- to do the same for this year’s be handled, but said he fy how future shows would be a show in St. was confident that there would Maarten in 2010. Cheston admitted that the MYBA had perhaps not that the MYBA had perhaps Cheston admitted it rescued the then-failing made the right move when action was St. Maarten show, but the association’s its membership. He said with a clear mandate from the terms of its contract that the MYBA would honor Association (SMTA) and with the St. Maarten Trades and 2010. support the show through 2009 started on December 4th, and the newer (fifth annu- 4th, and the newer started on December 6th, Maarten opened on December al) show in St. alike to charter brokers and yachts essentially forcing over the other. pick one show — JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 flashin’ throughan’ trolled byderudderwillgoonrock—yes,shegone!Anotheroneintow. sails flappin’an’shegoin’nowhere.Demoldpeoplesaydeshipdatcannotbecon- de bigboat,onlyfo’checkallwhoinwateran’leftstandin’!Ahsee record after on dembutahnotgoin’closeyetbecauseishabitgotrollin’.Dem de dozen emptyplasticjugsstrappedinsodemgo’bailfo’life.Ahkeepme eye side, another18-footerdown,too, ish. InClass5A,is so shedropwaybackafterbein’indelead. An’ byOrbinOllivierre s small but four downalready,t’ingsbad.Luckyt’ingisdesmallonedem.Waitahminute,say West Cay,ahinderescueboatan’beginfo’seesailswater.One,two,three, from desoutheast.Datwhywenotfeelin’muchinLowerBay.Butwhengetdown because depagego’full! Shannalou Irie just breakshemast,retiredhurt.Inde18-foot5Aclass,wegotahnewnametoo, not indeline-uptoday.Innextclass,wegot Pride, Lightning,Passion,Confusion,Bluff ender lineupdebeach,readytodobattle. an’ whatapicture!Wegot50yachtwidallcoloursailspinnaker30double- who couldbeatwho.Well,dedayishere. enough. Fo’ahfewmonthsnow,deywaslotgaffin’an’tongue-lashin’about Limbo doin’ ahtriangleoffPagetFarman’finish atAdmiraltyBayPoint.Dendebigboys. Clear skiesan’everybodyingoodspirits. 10:30an’offwego,18-footersfirst.Dem ‘bout tomorrow. Say. ide We tekeverybodyonshorean’gettode finishlinejustintimefo’see As ah say, dem all gone, de skies clear, sun hot an’ de wind hittin’ 18 to 20 in puffs As ahsay,demallgone,deskiesclear,sunhotan’windhittin’18to20inpuffs 11:30, offdemgo.Wegotsomenewnamesdistime.Indebigclass,we Yes, it’sSaturday,11thApril,EasterSaturdayan’westandin’onLowerBaybeach Oh boy,howtimefliesasdesayin’goes!Butfo’someofus,itain’treachfast Sunday mornin’ishere,deweatherfair to fine,debreezetouchin’1012knots. . Sheinwid determination and drama double-enders’ , another1 Fo’ demwhocapsize,deydonereachshore an’wettin’demthirstt’inkin’ tekdeleadinherclassan’sodid Tornado an’ More Worries 8 Dem Say Tornado -footer down down too an’ she is ah 18-footer. Rescue dem we will. On de south downtooan’sheisah18-footer.Rescuedemwewill.Ondesouth Confusion Irie . Afterdat,isdesmallonedem.Ahcan’ttellyo’alldemname an’ an’ ; he down too. Fo’ tell yo’ de truth, ah ain’t got time fo’ watch ; hedowntoo.Fo’tellyo’detruth,ahain’tgottimefo’watch Nerissa J , Nerissa J to behindden o, Dem Say Dem . Inde5Bclassis an’ in5Bisonly S a y Bluff , but she go’ free sheself. Dem got about ah , butshego’freesheself.Demgotaboutah , an’ butshe Braveheart.CloudyBay Confusion . Limbo Passion Bequia Pride g o’ freesheself.D an’ Shamu, Devine,MoreWorries, , shelimpin’slowlytodefin- wid Shamu, Shannalou Iron Duke breakshedaggerboard BBEQUIA EASTERREGATTA2009 Bluff E Q rightbehindan’ . Sorry, U e Left: Right: Class7’s Dr. GodwinFriday Northern Grenadines, Representative forthe from Parliamentary Class 7winner’strophy DeCouteau accepts champion, overtaking Class2 enterbutshe I A Lightning’s Braveheart

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R start ondewater.Atdistime, board. Isaboutt’reeo’clockan’ahseefewcloudsstartrisin’littleripple land. tion. goin’ north,somesouthtryin’topickupdeair.Itlikeitcomin’fromalldirec- cut offlikeahtap.Allboats,bigone,smallonetogether. downwind again.ItgotahlittleairnowbutwhendeyreachoutsideAdamsBay,it Bluff look ahfarwayawaybutisonlyt’reemiles.Butsunhotan’telltalecan’tevenfly! ah demdoneburnout.WhendeyturnWestCayan’lookuptoSempleCay,itsure motion. Fo’tellyo’detruth,itworkin’becausedemreachWestCaybutahseesome many waysfo’moveahboat—somerockin’,scullin’,jumpin’inforward don’t know.Deytekoverahhourfo’reachShip’sStern.Ahneverknowithadso sails can’ttrapnothin’. air. Demyachtoutindebaygettin’readyfo’startan’demonlybobbin’weavin’, Lightning nobody wanttobechicken. man creditfo’notevert’inkin’‘boutretiring,nosah!Detensionoutdeytootight, record an’isdelongestdemboatevertekfo’dodatcourse.An’ahha’give drop offagain.AhbeenarounddisRegattat’ingahlongtimebutracebreak de But ahtellyo’whatitgo’be,longwaitfo’meondefinishlinebecausewind Class 5A Class 4 Class 2 Class 1 E As deyturnWestCayfo’delastupwindleg,demspinnin’roundliketop:some But demmansayletgodownwindtoWestCay.Whengo’reachdey,ah Monday isherean’ahdon’tlikewhatseein’.Nineo’clocknotbreathof Dat good.Deygo’getfo’provedempoint inCanouanfo’Whitsuntide! G

outinfrontbyahlongway.Somehow,deyallgettodeSempleCaymarkan’ Lightning Confusion A

Liberty, My Love, Knowledge,

Irie, ea a l ot i n ml n together one small one big boats All tap ah ke T trailin’.Asahsay,deweatherwasfinesonobodyrollorbreakdown. T David Taylor, Bequia DavidTaylor,Bequia A Jamien Bess, Canouan JamienBess,Canouan

tackupdeshoreinMoonholean’likeshegetting’ahlittlet’ingoff Stanley Harry, Bequia StanleyHarry,Bequia 2 an’ 0 RyanMarks,Bequia 0 Bequia Pride 9 The smallestclasswillstartfirst Above: WaitingforSaturday’sstartsonLowerBayBeach. Friendship BaytoAdmiraltyRace Top: OnEasterSunday,Class5boatsatthestartof OVERALL WINNERS Lightning goin’outnorthan’alldeothersstickuplikeblack- upfront, Class 6 (tied) Class 5B Class 7

Limbo Bequia Pride Shamu

Lightning More Worries , Allick Daniel, Bequia , AllickDaniel,Bequia , Ekron Bunyan, Bequia , EkronBunyan,Bequia , Benson Patrice, Bequia , BensonPatrice,Bequia , Andy Mitchell, Bequia , AndyMitchell,Bequia next, den Confusion

. ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED PHOTOS: ALL JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 ISLAND GLOBAL YACHTING WWW.IGYMARINAS.COM 1.888.IGY.MARINAS WWW.IGYMARINAS.COM St. Lucia, WI AMERICAS | CARIBBEAN | EUROPE | MIDDLE EAST with long-term storage, all situated in a spectacular, with long-term storage, all situated in a spectacular, Features IGY signature amenities and services including a full- protected lagoon. Marina Village with shopping, dining, ship’s with shopping, dining, ship’s protected lagoon. Marina Village recreation & guest services.chandlery, 248 renovated slips including 32 berths for megayachts up to 76 meters. service boatyard RODNEY BAY MARINA RODNEY BAY enovation AT THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN’S MOST CARIBBEAN’S MOST THE SOUTHERN AT DESTINATION SAILING SPECTACULAR and New Megayachtand New Docks Come Experience Rodney Bayʼs Come Experience Rodney Class R World NEWLY RENOVATED!

For information or reservations © 2009 Island Global Yachting Global Island 2009 © 1.758.452.0324 WWW.IGY-RODNEYBAY.COM JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Tel: 8095235858Visit:marinazarpar.com ContactMARINAZARPARVHFChannel 5email:[email protected] “neighborhood ball”. Regatta 2009wasthesoutheasternCaribbean’sown and a Barbados, sevenfromTrinidad,oneDominica, from St.Lucia,fiveGrenada/Carriacou,six Headquarters atAdmiraltyBay.Therewerefourteams islands withinabouta170-mileradiusofRace some 275milesdistant—boastedhomeportsin Evans-Wong’s Bénéteau40.7 flags, buttherest—withsoleexceptionofBernie Canada, threeregisteredintheUKandsixflyingUS verbial “nearandfar”—butmostlynear. number ofyachts.Fiftycametocompetefromthepro- end ofracingandgoodtimeswerearecord-setting The yachtsincludedoneeachfromBahamasand IT Clippers Ship in class, battling third Padig Class winner, The Surprise magnifique (left), Zar-Par Marina Ma

13fromMartinique.BequiaEaster Za ble-ended opensloopsforaweek- island tojoin30indigenousdou- mile-long, northernmostGrenadine 28th time,andsailingtotheeight- was BequiaEasterRegattaforthe First Home fromAntigua, • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24 hoursecurity • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings started outbrisklybutdwindledtonearcalmonthe Surprise Class. more thanhalfoftheRacingClassandentire Gréement ranged from Race. ContendersintheRacingandCruisingClasses yachts signeduptocompeteonlyintheSinglehanded other “fun”competitors(tenboats).Anadditionaltwo boats (11boats)andoneforfull-timeliveaboards non-spinnaker CruisingClasses,oneforCSA-rated CSA spinnakerRacingClass(sevenboats)andtwo Nivelt design—withsevenentries.Therewerealsoa and abrand-newSurpriseClass—25-footJoubert- were twoone-designclasses:a13-strongJ/24Class 2009 thebiggestregattainSouthernCaribbean size ofayachtfleetthatmadeBequiaEasterRegatta Caribbean Regionsawnumbersslump.Boostingthe unusual inayearwhenmanyregattastheWider prizes fortheirCruisingIIwin Peter Asselstineandhiswifereceiving During theregatta,April9ththrough13th,breezes The ten-percentjumpoverlastyear’sattendancewas BBEQUIA EASTERREGATTA2009 E Q , aMelges24.BoatsfromMartiniquemadeup U I Volterra A by SallyErdle

E A , acustom80-footer,to S T E R

R E G A T T A Caraïbes

2 0 0 9 EastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingoand 7miles • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinafor clearance Class I Cruising the topof her wayto Acadia Newcomer two thirdsandafourth. San Juan34, angle. Nevertheless,itwasfellowTriniLloyddeRoche’s solid seventhplacetograbtopspotintheharbortri- Morris’s Frers43 calm wroughtabigchangeinthisclassalso,withPeter and afourth,tookoverallsecondinclass.DayThree’s Round Bequiarace,andwithasecondplace,first ing legendRawleBarrow’sBénéteau38,wonDayTwo’s regional regattawinner with classhonorsinherfirstBequiaRegatta.Frequent from theUSA,scoredafirstandtwosecondstoemerge David Cillen’sJ/109 races. liason, didaveryprofessionaljobofrunningthe including dedicated volunteersoftheBequiaSailingClub, Race OfficerJamesBenoit,fromGrenada,andthe and aharbortriangleonEasterMonday.VeteranCSA on theFriday,aroundislandSaturday, race days:AdmiraltyBaytoFriendshipandback The otherclassesracedonecourseoneachofthree weekend onwindward/leewardandOlympiccourses. last day.TheJ/24sracedsixtimesovertheholiday in theverylightairsoflastday. blasting fromtwofifthplacesuptoasecondplacefinish but thatdidn’tspoil III, Martinican racingstarEricBarayontheA40, bumped intothirdplaceonDayThreeinturnsent

Grenada, first place.RichardSzyjan’smodifiedHobie33from dominated RacingClasswiththreewinstotakeoverall In CruisingClassI, Philippe Leconte’s from two previous third places to a fourth for the day, from twopreviousthirdplacestoafourthfortheday, on The DominicanRepublic's

Rear CommodoreNoelMawerasraceoffice Category 5 newest marinacatering 18.25.50N 69.36.67W cruising yachtsmen Nirvana Jaguar to theneedsof Caraïbes Gréement Sonadio’s Pocket Rocket , came second overall, despite , camesecondoverall,despite Acadia, , whichtookoverallthirdwith Petit Careme, from Trinidadleapingoutofa —Continued onnextpage overallthirdinclass. BurtKeenan’sFrers48 , also from Grenada, , alsofromGrenada, Category 5’s Trinidadianrac- from Martinique fromMartinique Sonadio Sonadio being being JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 . en fête yacht races Bequia Easter Bequia Easter Thanks to Nicola For full results visit weren’t Sailing Club, and of Sailing Club, and of course all the participants, for making this little island’s regatta such a big success. Regatta 2010 will be run from April 1st through 5th — plan to be there and have a ball! Redway for information used in this report. www.begos.com/ easterregatta. Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware , “In terms of numbers of people par- , “In terms of numbers of people Compass The Bequia Sailing Club would like to thank would like to thank The Bequia Sailing Club At the final prizegiving in the waterfront garden of At the final prizegiving in the An estimated hundred or so additional yachts, hundred or so additional An estimated ticipating, this is the single most important sporting ticipating, this is the single Grenadines. It is also event in St. Vincent and the event in Bequia, both the most important annual I hope to see it grow.” economically and culturally. (St. Vincent Brewery), main sponsors Heineken Mount Gay and Pepsi (Bottlers Ltd.), The SVG Ministry of Tourism, Mountain Top Water, Tradewinds Cruise Club, the Frangipani Hotel, Windward Island Plantation and C.K. Greaves, and all the other business and private donors, plus the hardworking volunteers within the Trinidadian-born, Antiguan-based racer Bernie racer Bernie Trinidadian-born, Antiguan-based the northern islands’ Evans-Wong, a regular on here I haven’t seen circuit, said, “I’m seeing people And Trinidadian J/24 in 20 years — this is great!” “We just love coming racer Donald Stollmeyer said, told me that even if he to Bequia. Rawle Barrow wasn’t racing — even if there Bequia at Easter.” — he’d still love coming to Representative the Gingerbread Hotel, Parliamentary Dr. Godwin Friday, for the Northern Grenadines, told ing the camaraderie, there was a daily prizegiving there was a daily ing the camaraderie, up each race day. and party to wrap racers tourists and former yacht bearing cruisers, to follow islands, came to Bequia from surrounding in the shoreside the sailing action, participate Bequia activities and simply enjoy

crew 9 0 e-mail: [email protected] was 0 Padig Esperanza 2

A second from left T Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear T A from Trinidad, Nick in second place with G had their own tight tus- E Esperanza . R Caraïbes Gréement

from Grenada with 25 points. R Only Fadeaway Jahaji Bhai E Ambushe T from St. Lucia and Trinidadian S Right: A model Bequia boat for skipper Vianney Saintenoy and the Donald Radcliffe’s Bénéteau 456 from A Die Hard Jabal E

Fax: (758) 452 0311 A I Klondike, U Fourteen boats, including all seven Surprises, Also energizing the Easter Sunday lay-day were unbeatable in Racing Class Above: The Melges 24 Q sle for the next three positions, ending up with 28, 29 and 30 points respectively. entered the lay-day’s Singlehanded Round the Island race, which was not scored as part of the regatta series. The non-CSA class winner (and sole finisher) was Stephen Bushe’s James Arrindell’s Forsberg’s 23 points, and a hard-fought third for Robbie Yearwood’s ultimately topped the class, with four wins out of six races, followed by take Bequia by storm, but met with intense competi- take Bequia by storm, but met only hundredths of tion in all six races — sometimes three boats. a second separated the first the USA, followed in less than three minutes elapsed time by the CSA spinnaker class winner, Nicolas Gillet aboard the Surprise the ever-hilarious Crazy Craft Race, Sandcastle Competition and other entertaining activities, and Easter Monday featured the Almond Tree Fête with cultural performances and music. Further enhanc- E Left: The J/24 Class rounds Admiralty Bay mark with Left: The J/24 Class rounds other classes in the distance Above: A J fray, with victor Above: A J fray, with victor FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR BEQUIA EASTER REGATTA 2009 EASTER REGATTA BBEQUIA ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER Johnson Hardware Ltd.

Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils Padig Clippers to fourth. Appleseeds and Charlie GFA Caraïbes first, followed by out of Martinique, Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel: had a fifth and a , placed second over- , placed second

emerged class victor Padig Clippers Ship Esperanza Fetard, Padig Carina Concinnity,

American Jack Burns’ Hallberg- decisively settled the matter by decisively settled the matter came from Barbados intending to came from Barbados intending to third and came second with seven points, and came second with seven points, and Emmanuel Velasquez’s and Emmanuel Velasquez’s with two firsts and a second. with two firsts Only Dionysus, Dionysus Only Only third with eight points. Fadeaway

Appleseeds,

. On Day Two, the top three were reversed. Then came . On Day Two, the top three Continued from previous page Continued from Cruising II honors went to last year’s second-place class went to last year’s second-place Cruising II honors Among the J/24s, Ian Mayers’ Among the J/24s, Ian Mayers’ The Surprise Class was equally fierce. Day One’s results The Surprise Class was equally all with two seconds and a third. Going into the last day, all with two seconds and a among three boats having overall third was up for grabs eight points each: is Canadian Peter Asselstine’s Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 40. Asselstine’s Jeanneau is Canadian Peter US-flagged J/37, Dave Baker’s winner, — with six points, Clippers Ship to a second place, When the points were tallied, Gloumeau’s charged out of the basement into first place to shove charged out of the basement Nicolas Gillet’s Ship Gérard Corlay’s yet another Day Three upset: board showed Vianney Saintenoy’s board showed Vianney Saintenoy’s snaring victory in the nearly windless last race. snaring victory in the nearly third; and Thierry Paris’ GibSea 51 third; and Thierry Paris’ GibSea had two fourths. Rassy 39, had a third place and a fifth; his fellow American Rassy 39, had a third place Johnny Pollis’ Hinkley B40,

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 four days,theracesbeganat10:00 as witnesstothisstunningspectacle.Oneachofthe spot a“classic”. through theeyesofuninitiated,itisnotdifficultto Tradition yachts,JClassandTallShips.”Even together withthestunninglybeautifulSpiritof schooners, andyawlsmakingthebulkoffleet, ditional craftfromtheislands,classicketches,sloops, include asuperbvarietyofcompetitorsincludingtra- and 60yachtseveryyear,”saysthewebsite.“These has maintainedasteadygrowthhostingbetween50 Classic YachtRegattawasborn. bers ofmodernyachtsintheevent,andAntigua the classicswereseparatedoutfromgrowingnum- — “inthosedays,alltheboatswereclassics.”In1988 in the’60stoformalAntiguaRaceWeek1967 sics.com), theracegrewfromaninformalcompetition with mefortherestofmydays. Regatta. It’sovernowbutthememorieswillremain 2009 wasthe22ndAnnualAntiguaClassicYacht one exception. hard tothinkoflifebeinganybetter,perhapswith circumstances where,tothissailinggirl,itwouldbe in mymind,asIhavejustspentthepastweek them changesfromdaytoorweekweek. These arenotinorderofimportance,andhowIregard that entersmylife),and“Gratitude”forwhatIhave. for thegracetoreceiveandallowthem(andallelse ankle. “Will”forthewilltopursuemydreams,“Grace” the outsideofmyrightcalfrunningfromkneeto Montserrat inthebackground,stagewasset. boat hull,sailandrigwentpastwiththeislandof caps onthemagnificentsea,almosteverytypeofsail- around 12to15knots,enoughcreateafewwhite- describe thisawesomevista.Withthewindblowing this isthesameconundrumIhavewhenattemptingto joy. ThisdayIwasawestruck. never lostonmeandfailstofillmyheartwith watching oneglidepast,theeleganceofasailboatis statement. WhetherIamactuallysailingorjust boats gettingthefirstgun. starts atadifferenttime,withthesmallestandslowest before the“staggeredstart”,meaningeachDivision Classic Regatta. and Guadeloupethatisthe“racetrack”forthis side overlookingthebodyofwaterbetweenAntigua of birdlife.Thistreeclingsprecariouslytothehill- that aretoobusytobotherus)andseveralvarieties a coupleofdozengeckos,colonyants(thekind served asourvantagepoint,knownSnapperPoint. where wewouldbeginthehiketotopofhillthat our boat,anchoredinFalmouthHarbour,tothepier ies”) andIwereupearlyfortheshortdinghyridefrom ing mycrewmates(affectionatelylabeled“boatgroup- by LeeWolff This is my first year in the Caribbean and so my first This ismyfirstyearintheCaribbeanandso “Over theyears,TheAntiguaClassicYachtRegatta According totheofficialwebsite(www.antiguaclas- I ampresentlyinAntigua.April16ththrough21st, At themoment,itis“Gratitude”thatuppermost Three largerboatsintheSpiritofTraditionClass, Imagine describingthecolorbluetoablindperson; To sayIwasoverwhelmedbywhatsawisanunder- On thefirstdayofraceswearrivedafewminutes We satunderawind-worntree,onewesharedwith ALONG Gratitude” tattooedalong words “Will,Graceand of Gratitude,Ihavethe with theuniversalsymbol AM andeachmorn- ANTIGUA CLASSICYACHTREGATTA2009 A ConfluenceofPaths Velsheda and Ranger

inRaceThree,asseenfromourvantagepoint LEE WOLFF (3) WOLFF LEE was takenthreesecondsbeforethetwoJ’stouched Close encounterduringthefinalday’srace.Thisphoto —Continuedonnextpage days ahead. tude andabitofol’ladyluckweretheorder heartfelt “thankyou”formygoodfortune. next fewdaysIwouldwhispertothepowersthatbea see thiswasgrowingrapidlyandmanytimesoverthe they represented.Mygratitudefortheopportunityto Veritas, BluesTraveler Astor, Diva,WildHorses,WhenandIf,Stormvogel, in themorningbreeze.Boatswithnamessuchas ketches, yawls,allwiththeirwhitesailsstandingerect to look.Sloops,cutters,ketches,gaffschooners, past ourvantagepointandtookmybreathaway. ered large.Theseexamplesofpureelegancecharged view, dwarfingboatsthatwouldotherwisebeconsid- and Ranger blue hullthatreflectsthewatersobeautifully,and the twoJBoats— Tactics, strategyandjustdownrightcourage,forti- My senseswerebombarded;Ididn’tknowwhichway Rebecca , herwhitefreeboardglisteninginthesun— , aglorious130-footketch,cameinto Velsheda —namesasvariedtheboats withhergleamingdark- JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

LUCY TULLOCH

at left, Velsheda Velsheda’s Ranger (left) and and Ranger TOHATSU at right, with others in the Velsheda Rebecca has started with the inspection Velsheda The exception that I mentioned is perhaps to crew For full results visit www.antiguaclassics.com. I don’t know a great deal about J Boats and you can It’s time for us to leave Antigua. The overall results fleet: ‘a superb variety of competitors’ and the big ketch had some elegant duels Below, left: On Day Two, Above: Before the incident, Harbour, an event I wouldn’t miss for any type of Harbour, an event I wouldn’t miss for any type of inducement or enticement. If the past few nights are anything to go by, a good time will be had by all. Each night has offered varied types of entertainment, food, drink and atmosphere. The time and effort put into an event like this is monumental. If the efforts are reflect- ed in the success of the event, then this Antigua Classic Regatta has been a huge success. I, for one, will never forget it and for a sailing girl it doesn’t get much better than this: Will, Grace and Gratitude together in Antigua’s 23rd Classic Yacht Regatta. during next year’s race. Time will tell. already.” With that he pointed over to won’t know till we have some tests done; looks as won’t know till we have some tests done; looks as though mast. Sure enough, someone was up in the mast inspecting her rigging. With that, we said our good- byes, wishing them well and good luck. I do hope to see them again next year. be sure when I return home to Canada I will be doing a lot of research into these elegant giants. Beautiful, sleek, with graceful hulls that slice through the water like a knife through butter, any research done will be a labor of love. Close your eyes and imagine yourself standing on her bow in a 15-knot wind on a beam reach. Yes, that would be heaven, wouldn’t it? will be announced tonight at the prizegiving in English FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water Scaffolding

Guadeloupe F.W.I.

that Ranger Ranger

Velsheda . “With on port just behind Ranger Velsheda [email protected] (filters, impellers, belts) . Marina Pointe-à-Pitre 97110 Ranger E-mail: and the desirability of these articles increases GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants Most of the crew were busy taking down sails andMost of the crew were busy Classic Regatta have Most of the entries to the My main motivation, of course, was getting the real “We clashed masts,” came the matter-of-fact answer. It truly bothered this journalist that what I “knew” this journalist that what It truly bothered cleaning the boat as we approached. Catching thecleaning the boat as we that wasn’t preoccupied, Iattention of a crewmember At that moment, I wastold him of the photos I had. at the opening of anmore popular than Paris Hilton my unexpected popularityenvelope. My excitement at exactly how many inter- keeps me from remembering at least three or four. I haveested parties there were — position may have been butno idea what their place or a look at the photos.they crowded around to have skipper, though I didn’tPerhaps one of them was the so I still don’t know.ask them to identify themselves had a look at the photos,Regardless of this, once they downloading them and werethey were very interested in the necessary cable. doubly pleased that I had brought made with the name of T-shirts, and sometimes hats, These are then pro- the boat embroidered on them. and serve as coveted vided exclusively to the crew souvenirs for the participants. This was true for Ranger with the size and perceived importance of the boat. To my amazement, we were presented with both hats and T-shirts as a thank-you for the photos. Some say we should have held out for a lot more, but these gifts were so very unexpected and we were delighted. story from a reliable source, a crewmember. As one of the crew handed us our “booty”, we asked the question, “What happened?” I was later to be told by someone on through the final race as we hiked back to the dinghy race as we hiked back through the final our usual vigor. with less than get the scene and I couldn’t was purely speculation “I have pic- Then I had a brainstorm: out of my mind. of — perhaps the skipper tures of the incident would give in seeing them.” This might be interested Stopping only to get the real story. us an opportunity just in case USB cable for my camera, to collect the for the a copy, we headed straight they might want docks and they clashed sterns as well but this was not mentioned they clashed sterns as well but this was not mentioned in our conversation with crew on us, I guess it’s really not surprising: these are huge boats”. He went on to say that “We had to take the strain off the mast and rigging by taking down the sails ’cause there is no way to tell if there’s been any structural damage, so for us, the race was over. We on a starboard tack and MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT

and Phone: +590 590 907 137 Fax: +590 590 908 651 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE • SALES • REPAIRS • MAINTENANCE FRED MARINE Ranger Ranger Ranger right of Velsheda’s announced Velsheda Ranger now out of her . Ranger rounding of a mark on rounding of pulled up wind and pulled up wind and to do the same. However, Velsheda Velsheda was now clearly out of the in one smooth move. in one smooth Ranger’s were both on a port tack, Velsheda Velsheda Velsheda LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED Ranger Rebecca and looking for all stayed firmly on her port tack, on her starboard side, gave on her starboard astonished entrants and spectators alike. From and spectators alike. astonished entrants SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop Continued from previous page Continued from Quite suddenly, On the final day, an incident between On the final day, from the viewfinder. For It’s then that I took my eye One highlight was One highlight We watched the other boats come in and were We were stunned! No one, not those in the race who the next few hours, my crewmates and I would specu- the next few hours, my crewmates from our particular late on what we had just witnessed vantage point. way. It was a brave action that served her well and put brave action that served her way. It was a her ahead of Ranger I watched as up on Snapper Point, my vantage point leg in the final race.both sailed on a windward Velsheda of turning and tack- the world like she had no intention watching this through theing to starboard. I’d been managed to record theviewfinder of my camera and I watched action. Through my viewfinder, run to the bow and,bowman in his dark-blue jacket forestay, lean over to seewhile clinging to the sail and were.just how close the two boats — on a beam of racing. Approaching the second day could with as close to the mark as she reach, cutting Rebecca pleased for many of our friends, who were crossing the pleased for many of our friends, who were crossing the finish line one by one, but the wind had been taken out of our sails too and we were desperately hoping that no one had been injured. We diverted our disap- pointment by speculating on what had happened to make these two stars of the show limp home halfway steered a 180-degree turn. At the same time, steered a 180-degree turn. Velsheda in the lead by about two boat lengths. She then tackedin the lead by about two boat to starboard, forcing luffed her sails, then, with way, turned back and continued on her starboard way, turned back and continued tack. Meanwhile, race as she was heading in the wrong direction and taking down her sails. For a few moments, to the Committee Boat officials that she would be launching a protest against were close enough to witness the incident or those were close enough to witness the incident or those spectators on the hill, could fathom what had happened as these two beautiful boats slowly made their way back to the docks. Shortly after we lost sight of them the VHF radio came to life and looked as though she would continue the race but a looked as though she would continue the race but a then she too turned downwind and headed back to the mouth of the harbor. JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 with addedaidssuchastheCDsprovidedgifts says, “Wehavenowgainedmuchexperience,and they wouldhavebeatenoneotherboat.Winston last racehadn’tbeenforfeitedduetolightwinds, too wellthisyear,placinglast.Butifthelastlegof racing aJ/24priortoBequia,TeamDYCdidnotfare ing togetherforacommoncause!” regional leadersathingortwoaboutunityandwork- Caribbean sailingclubsandassociationscanshow sail. TeamcaptainHubertWinstonsays,“The the J/24 Yearwood andtheGrenadaYachtClubforhaving Team DYCalsogivesspecialthankstoRobbie first-ever regattacompetitioninBequiaback2006. to theyoungDominicanclub,whichparticipatedinits 9th through13th,underskipperRonanBudet. Hubert WinstonsailedatBequiaEasterRegatta,April Pigeon, KerryVerrahou,JoePetersandteamcaptain crew ofFitzgeraldCharles,AllanDaisley,Natalie founding members,AnthonyGunn.Thisyear,theDYC tured intoregionalcompetitionwithoutoneofits With onlytheirteamcaptainhavinghadexperience The BequiaSailingClubhasalwaysbeenwelcoming For thesecondtime,DominicaYachtClubven- Dominica YachtClubatBequiaEasterRegatta REGATTA NEWS Blue byYou

broughttoBequiaforthem DOMINICA YACHT CLUB YACHT DOMINICA http://asw.result.vg/public/regattaindex. utes, and45seconds. passed time offourhours,37minutes,andfivesecondssur- Cup veteranPeterHolmbergatthehelm, With VirginIslandOlympicmedalistandAmerica’s shattered therecordforRoundIslandRace. mile contest. divisions, BareboatsandMultihullssaileda17-nautical 34-nautical-mile racetoFortJames,whiletheCruising Race; thePerformanceCruisingclassesnegotiateda nautical milesintheYachtingWorldAroundIsland winner inCruisingMultihulls. Cloud capture intheInternationalDragonclass. capped aperfectweek—sixwinsinstartsto Overall title.TheDanishsailorPoul-RichardHoj-Jensen strong weekaboardtheFirst456, the verycompetitiveten-boatclass. pleted astirringcomebackaftersluggishstarttowin Plus based UlrichRohdeaboardtheSwan53, 15-boat fleet.TheoverallwinnerinCruising2wasUSA- based GeoffreyPidduck’s6-Meter, Crescendo eight straightvictoriesaboardthecharteredSwan44, Cruiser 2,HongKong-basedsailorNickBurnsearned France hadarunawayclassvictory.InPerformance and AlecSchwed’sGrandSoleil50, earned theclasshonors. Netherlands Antillesleaptattheopportunity,and Grand Soleil43, boom midwaythroughtheweek,DigVanderSlikke’s Racing 4title.Butwhen J/122, been goodfun.” their boomonthefirstdayandIthink the endwhichwasashame. West RaceWeek. Grand Prix,andathirdinIRC-1atthe2009AcuraKey in bothSkandiaRaceWeekandtheAcuraMiami IRC competitionandrecordedsecond-placefinishes down tous(andtheRogers46, some damagetooneoftheirbulkheadssoitwas Round-the-World Raceveteran,SimonLeBon. included formerDuranleadsingerandWhitbread England’s TeamOriginAmerica’sCupsquad)also largely professionalcrew(includingmanymembersof every day,”said two morevictories. capped adominatingperformanceinRacing1with and Kialoa, Infinity,Sayonara,MorningGlory Sailing Weekincludeslegendarynamessuchas yachts thathavecapturedoverallhonorsatAntigua ward toregionalsupport.Staytunedforfurtherdetails. about BequiaEasterRegatta2010!” from theBequiaSailingClub,wearealreadyexcited the listwhenCharlesDunstone’sTranspac52, tition fortheDivisionAraceboats,anewboatjoined 25th throughMay1st,andonthefinaldayofcompe- For fullresultsvisit British racerPeterHarrison’sFarr115ketch On DayTwooftheevent,DivisionAfleetsraced50 In Cruising2,AntiguansailorHughBaileyfinisheda In DivisionB’sPerformanceCruiser1,CliveLlewellyn Early intheweek,Antigua-basedJamieDobbs’s O’Farrell said,“OurRacing1classwasprettysmallin Rio “We gotwhatwecamefor,sunshineand25knots The listofboatnamesislegendary,andtheroster Rio Dominica willhostitsfirstregattain2010andlooksfor- The 42ndAntiguaSailingWeekwasrunfromApril , whichedgedout Rulesat42ndAntiguaSailingWeek , aJudel/Vrolijkdesign,hasbeenoverhauledfor Pyewacket. , LarryPollock’sFlint54fromtheUSA,was Lost Horizon Titan’s . AndinPerformanceCruiser3,Antigua- previousmarkoffivehours,fourmin- Curaçao Marine Rio’s , appearedtohavealockonthe captain,RichyO’Farrell. Hugo B Lost Horizon ICAP Leopard toearntheCruising Yeoman XXXII , fromthe Hugo B Biwi Magic sufferedabroken Mad IV Windemere , totopthe Dragon Fly Running Sojana’s Sojana , from broke Rio’s ). Butit’s Rio , com- Titan, ,

did

—Continued onnextpage along thesouthandwestcoastsofisland. windward toraceinBarbados! St. Lucia,GrenadaandTrinidadmakethebeatto was fantastictoseesomanyboatsfromMartinique, year’s 23.Theyrangedfrom24to80feetlong,andit was anall-timehighof37boats,wayupfromlast prise catchesareinstoreforus2010?” result ofJovan’scatch—andwhoknowswhatsur- will remainontheworld’sfishingmapfor2009asa Sean Mendonca’sjuniorworldrecordBlueMarlin.We “Last yearTobagowasputontheworldmapwith of manymorebigcatches.TheTTGFAPresidentsaid, venue ofPigeonPointHeritageParkwillbethehome tremendous support,andpromisedthatthenew Tobago HouseofAssemblyandCaribBeerfortheir sponsors MinistryofSportandYouthAffairs,the released duringthetournament. Seventeen bluemarlinandsevensailfishwere Best JuniorAnglerwasOmaDavis,alsoof Female AnglerprizegoingtoTeressaJackof to as aresult.Secondplacewentto six hoursand15minutes.Histeamplacedfirstoverall would havereceivedTT$60,000. 890 poundsheldby15-year-oldSeanMendonca,they US$160,000). Ifanyonehadbrokenthelocalrecordof they wouldhavewonTT$1,000,000(approximately pound BlueMarlin.Ifanyonehadbeensuccessful, to giveanglersabetterchanceatlanding1,000- the firsttimein29-yearhistoryofthistournament Tobago competed. Martinique, Grenada,VenezuelaandTrinidad& boats with143anglersfromtheUS,UK,Barbados, Pigeon PointHeritagePark,Tobago.Twenty-nine Tournament heldonApril29th,30thandMay2ndat Association) International2009MarlinMadness day oftheTTGFA(Trinidad&TobagoGameFishing Fanatic Angler JovanJangoonthe50-footBertram 825-Pounder Caughtat‘MarlinMadness’inTobago Racing courses were not only in Carlisle Bay, but also Racing courseswerenotonlyinCarlisleBay,butalso It wasarecordregattainmorewaysthanone.There Mount Gay/BoatyardRegattaReachesRecordNumbers For fullresultsvisitwww.ttgfa.com/home.html. TTGFA PresidentChrisMouttetthankedtheplatinum Jovan cametheclosestashefoughtbigfishfor The TTGFAallowed130-poundrodandreeltacklefor Fun Now caughta825-poundBlueMarlinonthefinal . JovanalsowonBestAngler,withthe Fun &GamesSolution Viking 4 the eventrecord pounds shortof was only65 ‘Marlin Madness’ Tobago’s annual winner in The prize , andthird Viking 4 Reel Viking 4 . . JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 VHF CH 16 phone 473 444 2400 www.lepharebleu.com [email protected] While hospice care is a fully covered benefit under under care is a fully covered benefit While hospice in 1952, has hosted an St. Croix Yacht Club, founded For more information, contact: Juliet San Martin, Regatta Director: (340) 690-1917 [email protected]; St Croix Yacht Club: [email protected]; www.stcroixyc.com; (340) 773-9531 Continuum Care, Inc.: [email protected]; Planned for Grenada New Offshore Racing Event This year’s Grenada Round-the-Island Race, hosted This year’s Grenada Round-the-Island Race, hosted For more information visit www.aroundgrenada.com. 2010 Fireball Worlds Coming to Barbados The Barbados Sailing Association is proud to The Barbados Sailing Association is the governing For more information visit www.sailbarbados.com. facilities and a fundraising component to benefit fundraising component to facilities and a care in the Inc., provider of hospice Continuum Care, 2000. Virgin Islands since plans, more A and other health care Medicare Part have no of patients on St. Croix than 40 percent end-of- at all. Continuum Care’s insurance coverage pain relief, emergency care, life services, including counseling, family education and grief caregiver and to pay, regardless of a patient’s ability are provided Tracy Sanders. Funds according to CCI founder to ensure continuing raised by the regatta will help supportive care in their coverage for all who require final days. since 1993. The regatta annual international regatta event, well known for continues to be an all-volunteer The regatta’s affilia- its legendary Crucian hospitality. Regatta Alliance brings tion with the National Hospice inspired by competi- to the Virgin Islands great racing tion, enhanced with compassion. (340) 772-2273 by the Grenada South Coast Yacht Club, was such by the Grenada South Coast Yacht Club, was such a success that the race committee is already plan- ning to expand the event from a single round-the- island race to a four-day offshore racing series. Stand by to learn the event’s new name, which will reflect its evolution! announce that it will host the 2010 Fireball Worlds in late April and early May of next year. The Fireball is a two-person sailing dinghy. The Barbados Yacht Club will be the main venue for the regatta, with racing to take place in Carlisle Bay. The regatta is open to all interested in participating in the two-week racing event. body of sailing in Barbados. It has several affiliates, including the local J/24 Club, the Barbados Optimist Dinghy Association, the Barbados International One Meter (IOM) Association and the Barbados Windsurfing Association. The BSA is an affiliate of the Barbados Olympic Association, the Caribbean Sailing Association, the International Laser Class Association, and the International Sailing Federation (ISAF).

- ﬁne dining on a unique, historical lighthouse ship - breakfast, lunch and dinner served all day at the Pool-Bar Restaurant Restaurants Petite Calivigny Bay, St. George‘s, Grenada W.I., POS 12°00‘11N / 61°43‘29W POS 12°00‘11N W.I., Grenada George‘s, St. Petite Calivigny Bay, and 11th are fishing days, with

as a rest day. Friday, November 13th will be

Only two-function radios are allowed to control the radios are allowed to control Only two-function 2009 IOM Barbados For more information visit the Set for November Martinique Billfish Tournament 19th Annual Audrey Quiniou reports: Martinique’s fish, but also to win a There is a chance to not only Registration takes place on Monday, November 9th, For more information contact [email protected] or St. Croix Regatta 2010 to Raise Awareness for Ellen Sanpere reports: The St. Croix Yacht Club has New race courses, including a long distance course The St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta is the first Shoreside activities will include the famous Cruzan could compete with professionals. The concept with professionals. The concept could compete strongest worked as the IOM has the seems to have of any radio-controlled worldwide representation in the UK, biggest fleets are presently yacht class. The and Australia — where registration France, the US, 1,200. numbers are approaching available: rudder servos. Three rigs are sail winch and knots, 10-17 knots, and 17-whatever to handle 0-10 will be boats off the water. Spectators wind blows the of the racing at the event able to watch live webcasts daily. The Barbados site, and results will be posted daily reports to their offi- Yacht Club will also provide cial event media partner www.sailinganarchy.com. or Worlds event site www.sailbarbados.com/iom.html, contact Penny at [email protected]. is scheduled to take International Billfish Tournament, 13th at Port Marin on place November 10th through the south coast of the island. Blue Marlin record of beautiful car by breaking the been held by Reynald 767.5 pounds. The record has 2003. There are several Pasquier of Guadeloupe since won, including an engine other attractive prizes to be boat. Breakfast, electrici- for the tournament’s winning all registered boats, and ty and parking are free for ice, bait, water and drinks will be offered to all tournament participants. As well, tax-free gasoline is reserved uniquely for foreign boats. with a briefing for boat captains, followed by cock- tails. November 10th the 12th the last day of the tournament and end with a prizegiving ceremony followed by dinner. [email protected] Hospice Care announced acceptance of their annual international regatta by the National Hospice Regatta Alliance with fiscal non-profit sponsorship by the St. Croix Foundation. Regatta organizers intend to attract both new sponsors and new racers to this 501(c)(3) charita- ble event, while raising awareness and funds for their local hospice, Continuum Care, Inc. The dates to save are February 19th through 21st, 2010. especially designed for first-time racers and live- aboard cruisers, will entice heavy displacement vessels that don’t normally participate in standard windward/leeward racing. Hard-core racers (those without a six-month supply of wine and canned goods aboard!) will find the “sausage” and “triangle” courses they love in the Buck Island Channel, and one- design dinghy racers will race inside the reef in beautiful Teague Bay. A separate Teague Bay racing circle will host the under-15 set in Optimist dinghies. According to regatta director, Juliet San Martin, “We’ll give a start to anybody who shows up to race.” leg of the Caribbean Ocean Racing Triangle (CORT), which will continue in Culebra and the British Virgin Islands in March. Rum party on the Friday evening, daily continental breakfast, live musical entertainment, and a weigh-in for winning skippers to receive his/her weight in Cruzan Rum. New in 2010: expanded on-site first aid

WILFRED DEDERER

from and from Rapajam Sonadio Jabulani Hotel California, . Mike Krimholz’s . Mike Krimholz’s Tangalanga Beneteau 53F5

Lantana . took all the bullets, with took all the bullets, with , skippered by former placing second in all races. placing second in all races. Le Phare Bleu Marina Le Phare Ninja from the British Virgin Islands sec- Jaystar, Maximum . Jump Up , a Bénéteau 10 Metre sailed by owner seen here ‘warming up’ in Bequia, was seen here ‘warming up’ in Bequia, , followed by Peter Hoad on MoGuffy was the overall winner in Cruising B, with Irwin was the overall winner in Cruising B, with Irwin Marina & Yachtclub Marina & - 60 slips for boats up to 120 feet and 15 draft - Customs & Immigration Water, (50/60Hz), - 230/110V Wi-Fi Webcam, - Showers, Lounge, Pool, Restaurants, Bar - Fuel & Gasoline - Minimarket, Car Rental, Laundry - Hurricane Moorings from the US. Vagabond Continued from previous page Continued from In the J/24s, first overall was Robert Povey on The Barbados Yacht Club and the Boatyard were For full results visit www.sailbarbados.com. 2009 IOM Worlds for Barbados This Month Renata Goodridge reports: The International One The IOM Class was formulated in the late 1980s to There were two racing classes, two cruising classes Cruising Class A attracted only three boats, all local. Cruising Class A attracted only three boats, all local. The three days of racing showed variable wind of racing showed variable The three days Hawkeye Colin Symes on wonderful hosts for the parties held each evening, where plenty of Mount Gay rum was readily available for thirsty crews. Next year’s regatta — the 25th — will be from May 13th through 16th. Hope to see you there! Meter World Championship Regatta will be held on Carlisle Bay, Barbados from June 20th through 27th. This will be the first time the International One Meter (IOM) Class has staged an event of this stature in this part of the world. Up to 76 skippers from more than 15 countries are expected to compete with their radio- controlled sailboats. Organizers hope to complete 25 to 30 races in the prevailing 12- to 18-knot winds. provide a low-cost, uncomplicated box rule for radio- controlled yachts. The rule was worked out by a group of designers including John Spencer of New Zealand and Graham Bantock of the UK, who set out to create a class where amateur designer/builders ond, and third overall was John Hanshell’s Beneteau ond, and third overall was John Hanshell’s Beneteau 505 compass on the Saturday. Protests were minimal,compass on the Saturday. Protests J/24s battling fromdespite the 14 keenly competitive their own start line. and a J/24 class. In Racing A, the A40 Indigo Gaffin’s Ron Hunt’s J/30, Grenada was dominant, taking overall honors ahead of the Ralph Johnson’s local and Steve Schmidt’s Santa Cruz 70, Too, Jerome Reid’s Last was Geoffrey Evelyn’s strengths, with normal breezes on the Friday and normal breezes on the Friday strengths, with boxing the and unheard-of zephyrs Sunday race days — Martinique, skippered by Eric Baray, beat local boats Bruggadung II Paul Johnson, and Olympian Shane Atwell, into second and third place overall respectively. In Racing B, Sonadio, Barbados’s biggest-ever triumphant in Racing A at Mount Gay/Boatyard Regatta JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18

From thispointwecoulddaysailwestwardalongthe to headfortheeasternendofCuba’snorthcoast. fronts broughtstrongwinds.Addedtothis,wewanted US forCubaasthetradewindswellcold accessed bypassingthroughthisimpossiblyfullspace. did nothavetogetintothechainlocker,whichwas Cubans wouldappreciate,wecollected.Ionlyhoped cutlery, rope—anythingweknewfrompastvisitsthat pletely fullofclothing,68pairsshoes,saucepans, OUR December 2008wasnotthebesttimetodepart DESTINATIONS byBernieKatchor OUR THIRDINTRODUCTION Cuba:

Australia 31 forward cabinof was plannedandthe third cruisetoCuba wascom- cruising permitsforamonthwithmonth’sextension. in thispartofCubawherewecould“enter”andgetour (21°05'48”N, 75°57'36"W).Thesearetheonlytwoports option thanouroriginaldestination,PuertodeVita Coco-Guillermo (22°25'N;78°28'W)wouldbeabetter ened orchangeddirection,the50milestoMarinaCayo reviewed ourplan.Wedecidedthatwhenthewindless- 79°32'30"W). Herewespenttwodayshidingand so weranofftotheBahamianAnguillaCays(23°30'01"N Santaren Channel,thewindwentcrazyandonnose 30 hours,aswewerealltooslowlypassingthrough changed to“bad”.Wepoundedourwayalongandafter coast formonthswiththewindbehindus. We set off with a good forecast, “brisk” — which We setoffwithagoodforecast,“brisk”—which 4:00 perfect English.Wehadtowaitforhightideat marina. Media,thepublicrelationslady,repliedin entrance totheshallowchannelweradioed into MarinaCayoCoco-Guillermo.Arrivingatthe as wearrivedtoolatetoattempttheshallowpass —Continuedonnextpage as 6.3feet. we followedwithourdepthsoundershowingaslittle draft. FinallyMediasentoutapilottoleadusinand 3:00 veyed thecourse—findingitbloodyshallow!At before clearinginwecouldusethedinghy.SoIsur- Arriving inCuba,weanchoredtheleeofareef PM PM thechannel’sdepthwasjustsixfeet—our togoin,butaslongwedidnottouchland JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

the bici-taxis .com moneda nacional, One man took us to meet his blind father whom we us to meet his blind father One man took the town and the next We were the new heroes of as We bought CUC as well were set around a The plastic all-inclusive resorts The weather was still bad for sailing, so we decided Foreigners are not allowed to travel on local Cuban It was wonderful to stay with the family, which The town of Camaguey with its music halls beckoned en’s shoes. I have heard stories of how women try on 50 heard stories of how women en’s shoes. I have them as true before buying, and found pairs of shoes to bring more else. I made a note not here as anywhere Examples of of shoes ashore next time. than five pairs the second from hand to hand, and shoes were passed every other for a short stroll while shoe demanded all over on them. Then it began woman commented Some women to dispose of the shoes. again. Two hours colour. we had their choice in a different even asked if fashion. We had 50 or so found could see in a blurry had given us and one pairs of eyeglasses that friends I fitted them on him and pair was immensely strong. as once again he he shouted with joy and amazement his house. could see the pretty girls passing total length on the way to morning, as we passed its CUC, the Cuban tourism find a bus to a resort to buy us. currency, everyone greeted are not meant to have. local currency which tourists Euro or US$1.30) equals One CUC (overvalued to 0.9 currency in markets and 24 local pesos. We use local pizza costs 20 cents US in street stalls. An eight-inch money. local money but US$3 in tourist in CUC) crowded with plastic town (that only dealt The market was outside tourists wearing armbands. vegetables except for some this town but was devoid of three hurricanes that local potato-like tubers. The recently hit this coast destroyed all the crops and new ones had not grown to date. In any Cuban market, buy what you see as you never know when or where you will see it again. Yvonne excels at trading in the markets, asking for unavailables such as eggs. Someone always knows someone and black market eggs appear within the hour from an unknown source. to take a trip inland. buses; they have their own CUC buses to travel on. But, having given him a gift, on New Year’s Eve the driver of a workers-only bus allowed us to travel from Guillermo with the partying workers to the town of Ceigo de Avila where we had friends we wanted to visit. includes three children. We walked around the town with them discovering all the bargains — for example, large ice creams for one peso (five cents). The greatest thrill for the children was to go to Coppelia, the two- level ice cream parlour for Cubans. The line was long and we waited for two hours along with many happy Cuban families. Waiting is never a problem for Cubans. A day’s wait for a bus is normal — and if the bus never arrives, “that’s life” the Cubans laugh. We sat in the gutter and waited. Finally we were allowed to climb the stairs to find more than half the tables were empty! I commented on the empty tables to our friends who shrugged their shoulders and said, “The wages are low, 15 dollars a month, and the job is Government, so keeping tables empty makes the work easier.” Glasses of water arrived and half an hour later our orders were taken. The boys asked for a budget for our order and I replied “about two CUC”. Yvonne and I ordered the three-peso sundae and there was much babbling between the parents and children. A half hour later our order arrived, one sundae each for the adults and five each for the boys. Total bill: about two dollars. so our friend, telling me not to talk, ordered to the bus terminal for a few pennies. Foreigners are forbidden to ride on bicycle-driven taxis and must use normal taxis and pay in CUC. —Continued on next page The following day, with three full backpacks, includ- day, with three full backpacks, The following boat,” the lot of babies aboard your “You have a I was in charge of wom- The village was waiting and arrived with a request for men’s trousers. Yvonne had long for men’s trousers. Yvonne arrived with a request and trans- people in the crowded house discussions with one day. to me. I must learn Spanish lated some of it we were clothes and one of shoes, ing one of baby “It is wash- at the marina gate. stopped for inspection the bags, said as the Guardia unloaded ing,” Yvonne are for repair in the village.” “and the shoes to pass. replied as he allowed us guard knowingly Above: Safe inside Guillermo Marina after negotiating the shallow entry channel Below: Yvonne enjoying the 20-cent street pizzas Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

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Continued from previous page Continued from A family invited us to their home, and as soon as we The workers are employed at the many tourist The next morning we walked to the nearby little vil- First a doctor confirmed our good health, then a confirmed our good health, First a doctor No sooner had we tied alongside the wall than, led by we tied alongside the wall No sooner had

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were indoors they all crammed into the room and we enjoyed their faces as we handed out clothes to these poverty-stricken people. Some ran off to bring back a potato or a few beans as a gift for us. A large fresh fish resorts in the vicinity. One ancient woman sent a cute resorts in the vicinity. One ancient woman sent a cute tiny boy, her grandchild, to shake my hand and give Yvonne a kiss on each cheek. (This custom of a kiss on each cheek from perfect strangers gives me an opportunity to view up close and even touch the beautiful Cuban women. I have recommended to President Obama to make this compulsory in the USA. Then even Australia may adopt the custom.) Their warmth is the reason we love the Cubans so much. lage, which had a small ship unloading at the port at lage, which had a small ship unloading at the port at one end. Cuba has 11 million people and three million are in uniform, so even in this tiny town Guardia were everywhere. Officially we are forbidden to give Cubans gifts so we walked with clothing discreetly inside two backpacks, greeting the friendly villagers. searched our boat, looking in drawers and other amazing places. I made the stupid mistake of telling them we had 231 storage places on the boat, but my poor Spanish was lost and Yvonne kicked me. Next the Port Authority people came aboard to make out our cruising permit. After three hours we were in Cuba officially and we bid the “army” good-bye. Media then offered us a five-page marina contract in Spanish that she wanted to translate, but I just signed it as I offered her a beer. This mature lass was most helpful and was surprised we were not, by this time, angry. But we had enjoyed the banter with those officials who would, or could, banter although a few were most serious. veterinarian checked food supplies, then Immigration food supplies, then veterinarian checked ship’s papers of them — handled our officials — three The Guardia came and and passports. On it went. the attractive Media, an army of 16 officials and two Media, an army of 16 officials the attractive This is Cuba, towards us to clear us in. dogs marched ladies inenjoy, including young Customs and a part we black net miniskirts, some with coarse, the briefest of or satchel. every one with a briefcase stockings, and — JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 tain hadbeendestroyedbythehurricanesbutone was availabletostockuptheboat.Almostallplan- squeezed intolistenafabulousCubangroup. US$3.50. Themusichousewasthenextstopandwe soup andfish,withtwobeersincludedcost Dinner ataCuban-moneyrestaurantconsistedof typical happeninginCuba. for halfanhourwithustofindtheroom.Thisisa ing. Finallythemanchangedhisclothesandwalked map wasdrawnafterweinsistedwouldenjoywalk- about tobeorderedwhenwesaidwouldwalk.A us abed.Eventuallyonewasfoundandbici-taxiswere ever, sothehusbandandwifephonedaroundtofind offered acolddrink.Theirroomwasoccupied,how- sign forroomtorent.Wewerewelcomedinsideand Replenished wesoldieredon,findingadoorwiththe roast pigbeingcarvedonatableinthestreet. cious, foracoupleofcents,soIwasdelightedtosee bocito Finally wewereletoutonacornerandwalked.A to stayinandthepassengershadmuchadvice. the towncentre.Wewerelookingforaprivatehouse nal ayoungmanhelpedusfindhorseandcartinto cell phone,buthewasathomeandunworried. stop atarestaurant.Herewephonedourfriendonhis our friend.Fifteenminuteslaterthebushadanhour’s was abouttoleave.Aboardthebusweworried going andonhearingourdestinationtoldushisbus waited andeventuallyadriveraskeduswherewewere friend toldustowaitandhewouldfixtickets.We — Next daywewalkedtothemarketandboughtwhat The roomwasdelightfulatUS$25andwerested. From theequallyeffervescentCamagueybustermi- The pulsatingbusterminalwaschaotic,soour PHotos by Onne van der Wal Continued frompreviouspage isabreadrollwithfreshlycutporkinside,deli- Y acht atRest M in , d

at paintings. Heopenedthewholegalleryandwespent gallery, anoldmaninvitedustoenterandviewthe the nightguardsatcommercialbuildings.Atoneart more musichalls.Cubaisandsong. This weenjoyedandwhenhewasdonewenttotwo voice, sangmanyariasaccompaniedbytwoguitarists. chef, whohadamagnificentlythunderousoperatic where weateadelightfullyspicedporkstew.Thenthe rest intheseatwevacated. was exhausted,soIgavehimatipashemovedto miles outofthewaysohecouldavoidpolice.He jail time,sohisroutetoourrentedroomtookhim Guardia catchhimwithforeignersaboardthereis bici-taxi youthgotusaboardhisvehicle.Ifthe We beganthewalkhomebutenthusiasmofa rots, oranges,grapefruitandlocalsweetpotatoes. self, butdeclinedtheexpensivecheese. man, whowasdesperatetohelpatnorewardhim- cheese atahighpricewasavailable.Wethankedthe even outofthemarkettoaCUCshopwhereimported asked forit.Wefollowedamanfromstalltoand them aboard. cart butforthetwohugepiglegsontopthatheld cent skin.Iamsuretheywouldhavefallenfromthe ules offatseeminglydesperatetoescapethetranslu- They trembledateverybumpwiththeirlargeglob- eter sausageswasbeingpushedthroughthemarket. need thevegetablethatbadly. these linestakeforevertomove.Wedecidedwedidnot buy waslong.Aseveryonechatswiththevendor, enterprising stallhadplantainandthelinewaitingto E Wandering homeintheweesmallhourswenotedall That nightwevisitedanotherCubanrestaurant, Our suitcaseonwheelswasfulloftomatoes,car- A localcheeseisnormallyavailableandYvonne A largecartfulloffour-foot-longbysix-inch-diam- ase bici-taxi for amarkettripwith arranges transportation ‘tourist taxis’,Yvonne more expensiveCUC Right: Spurningthe ice creamcones Here, theline-upisfor accustomed toqueues. Left: Cubansare driver Newport Newport WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM •1888SHIPDYT DYT Martinique DYT Newport DYT USA 20% discountonNovembervoyagesforlimitedtimeonly! YACHT SAFEST WAY TOSHIP St.Thomas,PortEverglades Martinique St.Thomas&

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RELIABLE, FREQUENTSCHEDULES : Tel. +596596741507 : Tel. +14014396377 PalmadeMallorca - Toulon - Coco-Guillermo, weonlybumpedthebottomtwice. rent. CrossingtheshallowchanneloutofMarinaCayo and headedoutforPuertodeVita,intothewindcur- — whichwasdrivenbyaspecialistdoctor. carrying allthefoodwehadbought,sotookataxi had someillegalwayofearningafewmorepesos. and taxidriversjusttosurvive.ManyCubanswemet doctors orotherprofessionalsoftenworkedashotelstaff or clothes.Tourismboughttips,andqualifieddentists, to liveforamonthonUS$15,evenwithoutbuyingshoes reasonably pricedclothing.Itmustbeextremelydifficult the USAprice. and foundittobeexactlywhatIneeded,atatenthof senior staffmemberandIopenedtheboxofswitch and examinethem.Finally,authoritywasgivenbya switches inaglasscasebutwasnotallowedtohold One hadahardwaresectionwhereIsawelectric not thosejustgazing,wishingtheyhadCUCtobuy. ignored customerswhoactuallywantedtobuyandwere ets, televisions,clothingandperfume.Dozensofstaff that followednotrend.Forexample,oneshopsoldbuck- shops sellinggoodsinCUC.Thesehadavarietyof are meanttodo. bought onlylocalcurrencyandnotCUCasforeigners Cubans. Accordingly,theclerkwassurprisedwhenwe the leftofdoorandareadmittedbefore where therewasalongline,butforeignerslineupon an hourenjoyingCubanart. Back aboard It seemedimpossibletogetbackourboatbybus, There wereCuban-moneyclothingshopsaswell,with There werealsoCuban-pesoshops,similarlysetup. Camaguey hasalongshoppingavenuewithmany Next morningfoundusatthemoney-changers, PortEverglades -

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PREMIER SERVICE FORANY COMPETITIVE RATES June 2009 • E-mail:[email protected] • • E-mail:[email protected] E-mail:[email protected] Australia 31 PortEverglades - St.Thomas&Thomas October 2009 November , we stowed our provisions , westowedourprovisions

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UNIQUE November

JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 ! Compass Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of St. Vincent & the Grenadines are now back as DVDs. REMEMBER restaurants and hotels. Street’s videos, first made in 1985,

Street’s guides are timeless. Sea Shells Holiday Apartments Street’s Guides and DVDs are available NEW! With all these updates readily available, Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine information on tracking and securing for a storm. ☛ Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist small Properties • authentic experiences or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com departments put out a free annual guide for bars, to tell our advertisers you infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free saw their ad in marine trade guide every year, which is much more DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, Enjoy our self-catering apartments located 15 mins. walk Enjoy our self-catering apartments and with a spectacular to popular beaches and restaurants the Bay, Admiralty view that keeps you in touch with heart and soul of Bequia. www.seashellsbequia.com [email protected] 784-458-3656 Tel: GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS HURRICANE TIPS! Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland

GUY DEAN , Bill Campbell of Overstreet , Dave Richardson of FREE and Nick Wardle of The Bahamas for information, which was , Teri Rothbauer of Toucan I Second Millennium, WEATHER REPORTS ,the Pompas of An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, except Sundays. Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not conducted on Sundays. When there are George comes on approximately 0710 with a weather synopsis, then moves to 7086 and Since November 3, 2008 several radiofax charts produced by the National Hurricane Center which are broadcast from New Since November 3, 2008 several radiofax charts produced by Thanks to William Mills of Frequencies (in kHz): A) NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314. Sea B) NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502,12788. C) 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Gulf of Mexico, Southwest North Atlantic, then Caribbean Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later. Note 1: 25 minutes later. Caribbean Sea approximately * Note 2: Note 3: Monday-Sunday Monday-Saturday • WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour, Monday-Saturday 68 • During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the 68 and Solar Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000, • Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event 10000, 15000, and 20000 AM. 72 VHF Hurricane Watch Net on 14325 USB/ham. VHF SELECTED CRUISERS’ VHF NETS 0800 of a life-threatening emergency. VHF 0730 Grenada Chaguaramas 0800 St. Martin/Maarten Porlamar English Harbour 0730 VHF 14 0900 Puerto La Cruz VHF 68/06 Monday-Saturday Daily 0745 VHF 72 Monday-Saturday 0600 0200 NMG Broadcast B Wefax* USB USB Wefax* B USB Voice Broadcast A Forecast USB NMG Wefax* Offshore B 0200 USB 0530 USB UTC Broadcast AST 0600 Wefax* 0930 B STATION & REPORT DESCRIPTION Voice 1030 0630 USB A 1030 0630 Forecast NMG Trinidad Emergency Net 9Z4CP (Eric) FREQ USB 1100 0700 Carib. Emergency & Weather Net TYPE 1100 3855 0700 Broadcast Caribbean Weather (Chris) 1100 MODE 0800 Wefax* 0700 Voice Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net Voice 1110 B 0710 Offshore LSB/ham A Bahamas Weather Net USB 1120 0720 Forecast 3815 Puerto Rico/VI Weather Net 1130 0730 NMG C6AGG Carolyn Wardle Weather Net Voice 1200 1130 KP2G Caribbean Weather Net (George) 7250 Voice LSB/ham 1230 3696 0830 Broadcast 7086 A 1300 Voice 1400 0900 Forecast Voice Offshore 8137 Caribbean Weather (Chris) Voice 1330 (Note 3) LSB/ham 0930 LSB/ham Caribbean Sea (WLO) 1530 Voice LSB/ham (Note 1) Caribbean Weather (Chris) 1800 3930 2) USB (Note 1730 1400 NMG 1800 Voice Offshore 4003 Caribbean Sea (WLO) 2000 1600 LSB/ham Voice 2030 2000 1630 Southbound II (Herb) 2130 LSB/ham 2330 8104 Carib. Cocktail & Weather Net (George) 2235 7086 1835 0000 Voice 2000 Voice 12350 Caribbean Emergency & Weather Net 0000 USB (Note 2) Voice LSB/ham Caribbean Sea (WLO) 0330 3815 C USB (Note 2) Voice LSB/ham C Voice USB 12359 Voice Voice USB USB C Voice USB SELECTED CARIBBEAN SHORTWAVE SELECTED CARIBBEAN correct to the best of our knowledge as this issue of Compass went to press. Alcheringa II www.caribwx.com/ssb.html active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net at 2300 UTC / 1900 AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule and changes visit at 0730 gives the complete Caribbean forecast including rebroadcasting WEFX. Orleans are based on information from different model run times. A 36-hour wind/wave chart has been added to the New Orleans Orleans are based on information from different model run times. broadcast. For full details visit www.nhc.noaa.gov/radiofax_transmission_changes.shtml JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 —Continuedonnextpage absorbed intotheweathersystemwith evaporatingwater. (11°F) —inonecaseofasupertyphoon, 9°C(16°F).Allthatenergyhasbeen water. Afterahurricanepasses,seatemperatures arecoolerbyasmuch6°C electric generatingcapacityoftheentire world. Allthatenergycomesfromthewarm 6x10 in theformationofhurricanes. Temperature. Ofcourse,thereasonisthat SSTisperhapsthemostimportantfactor hurricane season,thefirstthinginhis forecastistheSST—SeaSurface of hurricanes. the ITCZareoftenimplicatedinformingtropicalsystemsandcanbebirthplace the systemtorotatecounterclockwise. adding westerlywindstotheopenbottomofourinvertedV;thisstrongforcehelps north oftheequator,southerntradesbendtorightdueCoriolisforce, into theinvertedVofawave,itbringssoutherntradespicture.Now well culation tobegin. you counterclockwise,down-leftandup-right.It’saprimelocationforcyclonic cir- V curvature”ofatropicalwave,visibleinsatelliteimagery. these “downleft”and“upright”patternsareknownasthesignature“inverted angling upwardfromtheequator.Thecloudformationsneartropicalwavesshow downward fromyourviewpointwhilethesoutheastwindstorightofwave are and seethewindstoleftofwavearecomingfromnortheast—angling and southofeastbehindit.Imagineridingasatelliteabovethewave.Youlookdown patterns associatedwithatropicalwave:windnorthofeastasthewaveapproaches 10°N. Itisnocoincidencethatthisalsoprimehurricaneseason. tion byabouttwomonths,sotheITCZisfarthestnorthinAugust,typically north-south movementoftheITCZlagsbehindsun’sannualmigra- sometimes asfar15°N,bringingunsettledweatheritpassesoverus.This winter tradesinthesouthernhemispherepushITCZnorthduringoursummer, pole. Soin intense whenitisnarrowest. wind andfrequentshowersthunderstorms. amounts ofmoisturebeingdrivenaloft,resultinginheavycloudformation,little This iswherethetradewindsfinallytaperoff.TheITCZcharacterizedbylarge trades meetintheequatorialareawhereintenseheatcausesrisingofhotair. bands, thesouthernhemispheretradesandournortherntrades.The Zone. Whatareconverginginthezonebetweentropicstwotradewind descriptive wordhasbeenreplacedby“theITCZ,”theInter-TropicalConvergence Smeeton youwillhavereadaboutthedoldrums.Inthiseraofacronymsthatvery 90 tropicalwaves.Insteadwegetabout60peryearasthehistoricalaverage. did, thesix-monthhurricaneseasonfromJunethroughNovembershouldseeabout wave; “lowamplitude”wavesdon’tstretchveryfarnorthward. called tropicalwaves.Whenatroughreachesfarnorthit’s“highamplitude” Africa androllwest.Thetroughs,thatis,thelow-pressurepartsofwaves,are upwards tomid-latitudes.Youcanthinkofthemasenormousrollersthatformover pressure bands.Thebandsstretchnorthandsouthfromtheequatorialarea waves haveaperiodofabouttwodaysand,likeanywaves,consistlow-andhigh- that tendstodisrupttheflow.Theresultiswavesforminriverofair.These tradewind flowasariverandtheAfricanclimatecontrastwrithingdisturbance a powerfulinfluenceonthenorthernhemispheretradewindflow.Thinkof in Africabetweenthewetequatorialjunglesanddry,hotSaharatonorthhas be affectedbylandfeatures.Duringthesummerinparticular,strongcontrast Weather andHurricanes The averagehurricanereleasesenergy eachdayequivalentto600terawatts: If yougotoChrisParker’ssite(http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html)duringthe Hurricanes andWaterTemperatures These conditionsofinteractionbetweenatropicalwaveandnorthernbump in If theITCZgetsinvolvedatsametime,pushingnorthwithabumpprotruding Imagine standingjustinsidetheinvertedV.Windsonbothsidesaretryingtospin Most Atlantichurricanesstartneartropicalwaves.We’veallexperiencedthewind What CausesHurricanesintheMid-Atlantic? Strong wintertradesineitherhemispherepushtheITCZawaytowardsother The ITCZ,a.k.a.thedoldrums,variesfromabout20to150mileswideandismost If you’vereadtheclassiccruisingbooksbyEricHiscockorMilesandBeryl What istheITCZ? Tropical wavesdon’tformeverytwodaysexceptinthepeakofsummer.Ifthey The flowofthetradewindsinbandbetweenequatorandmid-latitudescan What’s aTropicalWave? Understanding Tropical 14 Watts.Whattheheckdoesthatmean in real-lifeterms?It’s200timesthe our winter,theITCZispushedsouth,asfar5°S.Likewise,strong by ClaytonLewis JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Grenada

NOAA Continued from previous page Continued from So there are no — well, almost no — South Atlantic hurricanes. In March 2004 Furthermore, the water of the South Atlantic is colder than our North Atlantic and Also, the ITCZ wanders around from season to season. It reaches about 15°N Also, the ITCZ wanders around from season to season. It reaches about 15°N South Atlantic Hurricanes The South Atlantic doesn’t get hurricanes. Why is that? Recall that most hurricanes are formed by the right interaction between the Inter In the southern hemisphere, Coriolis deflects trajectories to the left. Imagine fling- So imagine standing in Jacksonville, Florida, at 30°N and hurling a ball directly So imagine standing in Jacksonville, Florida, at 30°N The equator is 25,000 miles long. Imagine standing on the equator for a full 24 on the equator for a full 24 The equator is 25,000 miles long. Imagine standing What is Coriolis Force? and in steering them once Coriolis force plays a part in the formation of hurricanes Here’s why: The center of a hurricane system becomes a hollow column, like a a hurricane system becomes a hollow column, like Here’s why: The center of Wind shear is the difference between the wind speed and direction at the jet stream between the wind speed and direction at the jet stream Wind shear is the difference Wind Shear: What is It? National Hurricane Center forecasts and Jeff Master’s Over and over again in the So long as the hurricane remains over warm water it may gain strength. Once it over warm water it may gain strength. Once So long as the hurricane remains Similarly, a hurricane can stumble if it passes over a cooler area of water, such as stumble if it passes over a cooler area of water, such as Similarly, a hurricane can Sometimes when a hurricane runs over a particularly warm spot in the ocean (ana particularly warm spot in a hurricane runs over Sometimes when In order to have an adequate source of surface energy, the ocean should be at least energy, the ocean should an adequate source of surface In order to have (the southern hemisphere equivalent of our September) the one and only South Atlantic hurricane ever recorded went ashore in Santa Catarina in southeastern Brazil. Since there was no ready list of names, it was named after the landfall. Hurricane Catarina was a Category 1. Scientists still debate whether it is one more sign of global climate change. wind shear tends to be higher there. So SST and wind shear in the South Atlantic don’t tend to be favorable for hurricane development. but only about 5°S, and at 5°S there isn’t a strong enough Coriolis Force to but only about 5°S, and at 5°S there isn’t a strong enough Coriolis Force to start rotation. Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) and a tropical wave (provided a few other factors co-operate too, like wind shear and sea surface temperatures — SSTs). But the tropical wave factory in Africa lies mostly between the Sahara and the African rainforest. That whole area is north of the equator. In the southern hemisphere there is no tropical wave factory in Africa and so tropical waves are rare in the South Atlantic. ing that ball again! This makes southern hemisphere tropical storms spin clockwise, not counterclockwise as they do here in the north. south, aiming at the point on the equator. You would be aiming for Quito, Ecuador. south, aiming at the point on the equator. You would are traveling east at about As you let go of the ball, you, the ball and Jacksonville 850 mph but Quito is traveling east at 1,000 mph. By the time your ball dropped on the equator, Quito would have moved well off to the east. The ball would fall into the Pacific. If you drew a line on the globe to follow the trajectory of the ball, it would curve off to the right of your intended flight. Play the same mental game for throw- ing a ball from Quito aimed at Jacksonville directly to the north and you get the same result — the trajectory gets bent to the right because the ball is moving east faster than Jacksonville. In fact, any flight of the ball in the northern hemisphere will be deflected to the right. The apparent force causing this movement is named the Coriolis force. And it doesn’t just affect balls! Air currents are subjected to the same force. hours. As the earth spun through one revolution you would travel 25,000 miles to would travel 25,000 miles to hours. As the earth spun through one revolution you But if you stood still at one of the east in 24 hours — about 1,000 miles per hour. at all since you are at the the poles for a whole day, you would not have traveled would have very cold feet.) center, the axis, of the earth’s rotation. (However, you rates — fastest closest Points between the equator and the poles move at different for example, move at about to the equator. Points at 30° north or south latitude, 850 mph. they form. But what is it? drinking straw, around which warm, moist air is sucked aloft. The column pumps warm, moist air is sucked aloft. The column pumps drinking straw, around which untold energy and lots of rain. up water vapor, which cools and condenses, releasing straighter and more vertical This heat pump is the engine driving the hurricane. The the column; a different wind it is, the better it will pump. Higher winds aloft will tilt level core will be torn away direction aloft will also tilt it. Enough tilt and the upper killing the heat engine and and detached from the circulation feeding it from below, destroying the system. level and that at the surface. Ideally a developing hurricane wants zero wind shear Ideally a developing hurricane wants zero wind shear level and that at the surface. or direction of the wind at all levels from the surface — that is, no difference in speed for shear of 20 knots or less is considered “favorable up to about 40,000 feet. Wind hurricane development”. blog (www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters) we’ve been seeing the words “wind we’ve been seeing the words “wind blog (www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters) is to develop into a tropical system. Low wind shear shear” when a low threatens a develop and high wind shear can cripple or collapse necessary for hurricanes to storm that has already developed. hits land the source of fuel is gone and it runs out of steam (pun intended). hits land the source of fuel the track of a recent hurricane. This is one reason that it is rare to have two intense This is one reason that it is rare to have two intense the track of a recent hurricane. area in the same season. storms in the same general anomaly) such as the Gulf Stream or a warm eddy, it goes through a rapid intensifica- eddy, it goes through a as the Gulf Stream or a warm anomaly) such eddies during importance of deep, warm first recognized the tion. Meteorologists Gulf of Mexico a warm-water eddy in the in 1995. Opal encountered Hurricane Opal 14 hours. Both 1 to Category 4 in only in intensity from Category and strengthened ofintensified to Category 5 over hot eddies in the Gulf Katrina and Rita in 2005 Mexico. 26°C (79°F). Furthermore, this layer of warm water should be at least 200 feet deep. water should be at least this layer of warm 26°C (79°F). Furthermore, up water it can kill itself by dredging hurricane stirs up the water As the passing that is too cool. — JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 charts. Fairtides! after itsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. after themoon’ssettingtojustitsnadir,tiderunseastward;andfrom the moonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjust ning totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutanhour help youcalculatethetides. time ofthemeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnextmonth,will author ofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthe your passagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet, For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrun- Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmake 20 0933 19 0835 18 0743 17 0655 16 0611 15 0529 14 0448 13 0406 12 0323 11 0238 10 0151 9 0101 8 0010 7 0000 6 2318 5 2227 (full) 4 2138 3 2051 2 2005 1 1919 DATE TIME June MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THEMOON JUNE &JULY2009 10 0204 9 0121 8 0035 7 0000 6 2347 5 2257 (full) 4 2206 3 2114 2 2029 1 1936 DATE TIME July 30 1849 29 1803 28 1717 27 1630 26 1540 25 1447 24 1350 23 1247 22 1141 (new) 21 1035 31 2002 30 1915 29 1821 28 1732 27 1644 26 1557 25 1509 24 1419 23 1327 22 1230 (new) 21 1129 20 1025 19 0920 18 0816 17 0718 16 0624 15 0536 14 0451 13 0408 12 0327 11 0246 island chain. make sureyouarewellclearofthehurricanewhenithitsEasternCaribbean Passage Chart100)thepositionofhurricanesminutetheyarereported,youcan weather reportstwiceadayandplot(preferablyonyourImray-IolaireAtlantic you areinthehurricanebox. if thedamageisnotasaresultofnamedstorm,youarecovereddespitefact due toanamedstorm.Inotherwords,ifyourunaground,havefireorloserig, ricane box,buttheydonotexcludedamageincurredinthehurricaneboxifitis as theclosingdatetohurricaneseason. June lsttoNovember1st,butpracticallyallLloydsunderwritersgiveDecember1st ricane season.Someunderwritersdefinehurricaneseasonasbeingtheperiodfrom by namedstormswithinthehurricanebox—usually12°Nto32°Nduringhur- thing todoischeckyourinsurancepolicy.Allpolicieswillexcludedamagecaused or tendays,onlytobefollowedbyaperiodoflightairscalm. the wintermonthswindisalloverscale:itcanblow25to30knotsforaweek blows arelativelyconstant12to15knots—seldomless,morewhilein the highestaveragewindvelocityofyearisinJuly!ThisbecauseJulyit British andAmericanpilotbookscoveringtheEasternCaribbeanyouwilldiscover tradewinds arewellsettledin.Generallyitblows12to15knots.Ifyoucheckthe strategies, visitwww.street-iolaire.com. “rock happy”orlayingupyourboatfor the entiresummer. through thehurricaneseason,ratherthan sittingatanchorinoneharborandgoing then headduesouthandintothemarinasatElMorro. anchorage. OrcontinueduewestuntilyoureachthelongitudeofPuertoLaCruz inside theGulf.ProceedtoGranLagunadeObispoandfindyourselfasheltered of theentrancetoGolfodeCariaco,turndirectlysouthandthentuckbackeast Paria coastanditspirates.OncepastthewesternendofMargaritaatlongitude head directlywestfromGrenadaalong12degreesoflatitudetokeepyouwilloff the than Grenada.Also,theanchoragesinMargaritaarenotverywellsheltered.Rather, Chaguaramas mightbeovercrowded—checkbeforeyougo. Chaguaramas (Trinidad),andtheGolfodeCariacoPuertoLaCruz(Venezuela). basically threechoicesbeforeyougosofarwestit’schallengingtogetback: than 60milesfromthesouthedgeofcone,headfarthersouth. ages onthesouthcoastshouldbefine.But,ifplotshowsthatGrenadais less southern edgeofthedangercone,thenbeingwellsecuredinshelteredanchor- ing overalltheislandsasfarBarbuda,beforeheadingoffacrossAtlantic. that havehittheGrenadines,thenmadearight-angleturnandheadednorth,pass- once theyhittheislandscandoanything.Therehavebeenafewhurricanes the Caribbeanalmostneverchangesdirectionmorethanfivedegreesin24hours, and damageyourboat. ing largecommercialvessels—thatarenotsowellsecuredandcoulddragdown secure yourboatperfectly,buttherewilllikelybedozensofotherboats—includ- have becomesocrowdedthatthereisnosuchthingasahurricanehole.Youmight think offindingahurricaneholewithintheconeandtryingtosecure.Theislands edge oftheconeyouhaveplotted.Unlessthereisnootheralternative,donoteven smaller andsmaller. approaches theEasternCaribbeanareaofconecoveringislandswillget African coasttheconewillcoverawideareaofislandchainbutas in thedirectionofitstrack.Needlesstosay,whenhurricaneisjustoff hurricane isreported,drawaten-degreeconeextendingfromitspositionoutward virtually neverchangedirectionmorethanfivedegreesin24hours.Assoonasa island Hurricane Season As longasyouarecruisingintheareafromMartiniquesouth,iflistento Properly wordedpolicieswillexcludealldamageduetonamedstormsinthehur- If youareplanningtocruisetheEasternCaribbeanduringsummer,first In theCaribbean,bestsailingmonthsofyearareMay,JuneandJuly.The For moreinformationonhurricaneavoidance and,ifworsecomestoworst,survival If youfollowthesedirectionscanhaveanenjoyabletimeactivelycruising If headingtoVenezuela,donotgoMargaritaasitisthatmuchfarthersouth If headingfarthersouthandwestfromtheEasternCaribbeanchain,thereare If yourplottingshowsthatthesouthcoastofGrenadawillbe60miles You mustplantobesouthofthehurricane,asalthoughahurricaneapproaching Check yourlocationandmakeplanstobeatleast60milessouthofthe This This ispossible,asuntilhurricaneshittheislandsofEasternCaribbeanthey You

twice aday,youcanmakesure chain. is If youlistentotheweatherreports poss ible are wellclearofahurricane as nt lh il During Can rri cane by DonStreet shi tth eis Cruise land sof the Eas tern Car ibbe nt an he JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

NOAA , a 42-foot Catalina sailboat, , a 42-foot Catalina sailboat, stay vertical and somewhat sta-

Sandcastle Sandcastle

would say, “There’s not a sky in the cloud.” AND US AND by Linda Hutchinson Mermaid of Carriacou OMAR As the storm is moved on and the squalls diminished, our thoughts turned to mov- On the Wednesday we heard reports that the storm was finally moving away. However, The amazing thing was how this community of cruisers worked together to protect There was a period when the wind and rain were at their peak, steady and no lon- The radio was full of chatter: friends checking on friends, getting weather updates The night always brings on the monsters, and a monster Omar was. Once you meet Plans to haul out or head for other islands were put on hold. We all held our News from other islands started dribbling in. In Bonaire‚ the dinghy docks at News from other islands started dribbling in. In Bonaire‚ At night, it is common practice to haul the dinghy out of the water, engine in place, At night, it is common practice to haul the dinghy out The first full day of the official storm featured increasing wind and rain. Most storm featured increasing wind and rain. Most The first full day of the official During our four years of living aboard During our four years of unusual storm, Monday, October 13th, 2008, winds During the first night of this ing on, with the regret of leaving new friends tempered by anticipation of the adventures ahead. Come and go with us. We assure you, you will never regret a minute of it. Sail well and safe seas! all day we remained braced for more squalls and all day we got continuing rain and no sun. As John on itself against the blow. All stood ready to help one another without question as to who or why or how. We had no president, congress or law. We just did what was necessary to safeguard ourselves and keep our neighbors out of harm’s way. Too bad we can’t pass this spirit of cooperation along to the rest of the world. ger howling but making a vacillating, high-pitched whine that seemed to go on and on. Each feeder band of the storm going over was slightly different from the previous one. The boat stayed secure, seemingly held by a sunken freight train; how else could it stay in one place for so long while being so punished by Mother Nature? and rearranging plans previously made. Some caught up on sleep before the night brought on what it would. But Omar was finally finished with us. tionary, nose into the wind. The winds kicked up to an average of 35 to 40 knots with 43-knot gusts on the Tuesday night. That is a lot of wind when your house moves about as freely as ours does! a monster it isn’t nearly as frightening, but still to be respected. Our Catalina whipped side to side, tacking at the end of its anchor chain, hour after hour. Only when the strongest of winds came did breaths as we sat tight and hoped for the best, especially those of us who had not been through a storm of this magnitude before. Our memories of our first nights as liveaboards, when we huddled together as 15 to 20 knots of “howling” wind jerked at the anchor rode (we didn’t have all chain then) as if to pull the bow off, seemed like baby stuff to us now. It’s all relative, I guess. Colombia ahead of the storm was hit by lightning, lost an autopilot and had a rudder Colombia ahead of the storm was hit by lightning, lost was assisted through the reef problem. The skipper turned toward Aruba, where he waves hitting the shore and into the harbor by the Coast Guard. There was talk of there was enough wood on a spraying up to 45 feet into the air. Someone said Bonaire beach to build a house. Nautica Yacht Club and Karel’s were turned into matchsticks. A yacht that left for Nautica Yacht Club and Karel’s were turned into matchsticks. and secure it to the side of the boat to prevent theft. Ours was in such a position and secure it to the side of the boat to prevent theft. teamwork got the dinghy when, broadside to the wind, it was flipped vertical. Quick flip-flops and other contents righted and down into the water before the gas tank, were lost overboard. crews stayed on their boats. More boats dragged and tried to find somewhere to re- More boats dragged and tried to find somewhere to crews stayed on their boats. marinas or known hurricane holes to sit out the blow. anchor. Others moved to the the group of sailboarders riding the winds and waves in We were entertained by a turning at the last minute before crashing into the sides harbor with full abandon, of the boats. What fun they had! were in the 25- to 30-knot range. Boats were dragging, with some bumping into oth- were in the 25- to 30-knot was prevented any harm to bodies or boats. This ers, but superb boat handling the of the night, the blinding amount of water falling from impressive given the black boats broadside into one another. But the wind sky and the heavy winds pushing peak, as we would find out the following day. and rain weren’t yet at their Roger and I thought we had experienced most of the weather we would ever submit experienced most of the weather we would ever submit Roger and I thought we had by Tropical Storm Omar surprised us and everyone else ourselves to. That was until ABC islands. Anchored in Curaçao, there wasn’t much developing right on top of the the boat, make sure it was anchored as securely as pos- we could do but stay with skies and ride the wind. And ride we did. Our Catalina, sible, sit back, watch the did just that. We whipped side to side, on and on, heel- known for sailing at anchor, as that things in the boat would jump off their shelves ing sometimes so severely the high seas. though we were sailing on JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26

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128 ﬁxedslips ond, butontheotherhandaplancould saveourlives. salmon streamwithoutplanningwhatto doifabearcomesintocamp. were atseaoranchor.Thatwould be likecampinginbearcountrybesidea specific defensiveactionstheycouldtake ifahostileboatapproachedwhilethey lived infearof“somethinghappening”. They hadnevergivenanythoughttowhat the situation. would satisfythethieves,butatthatpointyouareinaverypoorpositiontomanage kept afewstashesofcashthatwereeasytofindinhopesifboardedthe ity wecouldsneakuponit.Weplantoworkimprovingthealarmsystem. We was toosensitivetowavesandboatmovementifweturneddownthesensitiv- rings andputthemdownbelow.Wetriedusingamotiondetectorbutfoundthat it radio, sowecouldcallfrominsidewithoutbeingheard. lights wouldscareoffaboarder.Wealsoturneddownthevolumeoncockpit able toturnoncockpitanddecklightsfromtheinteriorofboatinhopesthat the given awayyourposition,soyoumustholdthelightfrombody.We are other defensiveequipmenthandy.Ifyoushinealightatthebadguyhave just evaluate thesituation,andlockisoninside.Wekeptabrightflashlight and houses. Thegrategivesustheopportunitytoseewhatishappeningoutside and people expressconcernaboutbeing“lockedin”,butdothisallthetime in across thehatchaboveourbed.Weclosedallotheraccesspoints.Ihaveheard cell phone.) at nightinananchorage.WehadalloftheGuardianumbersprogrammed our Guardia gaveustheircellphonenumbersowecouldcallthemifhadaproblem boarded orharassed.(VenezuelahasaveryactiveGuardiaandinoneanchorage the — andwouldusetheVHFtonotifyotherboatsorGuardiaifwewerebeing at sea—usetheflaregun,horn,andpepperspraytokeepboardersoffofboat by baddieswhileatanchor,wewouldfollowthesamegeneralplanasifapproached and askedwhatVHFchanneltheymonitoredatnight.Incaseofbeingapproached we wouldgoelsewhere.Iftherewereotheryachtsintheanchoragemadecontact also usedwhatwecallthe“gutcheck”—ifhadabadfeelingaboutsituation not leanoutoverthelifelinetotalkvisitors;wewouldstaylowincockpit.We below andbecomingengrossedinamovie.Untilweknewtheirintentions,would as runningthegeneratoratnight,goingovertoanotherboatfordrinks,or possible wewouldcalltheGuardiaonradio. stay lowinthehopethathullwouldabsorbsomeofimpactbullet.If gun, orpeppersprayatcloserrange,todeterboarders.Ifshotswerefiredwewould tank isapowerfulincentivetoavoidflare.Ifapproachedweplannedusetheflare many boardingswereavoidedbyshootingaflareat,orinto,anopenboat.Thegas boat. Afterreadingmanyaccountsofpiracywhileunderwaywedeterminedthat outrun orout-maneuveritandavoidcontact,butthiscanbehardtodoinasail- Venezuela wasonnotlettingthebadguysboardourboat. around awhileandlistenedtotheirexperiences. advice aboutthesafetyofalocation.Wealsospokewithcruiserswhohadbeen Piracy, foraccountsofincidentsineacharea.Welookedthecruisingguides and theCaribbeansectionofNoonsitewebsite,www.noonsite.com/General/ incidents. WeconsultedtheCaribbeansafetynetatwww.safetyandsecuritynet.com researched securityreportssowecouldevaluatetheriskandnatureofprevious of anchoragesinVenezuelawasimportant.Beforewetraveledtoanarea decision thatcomeswithgreatconsequences.)Wereviewedradioprocedures. (I haveintentionallynotdiscussedtheuseoffirearmsinthisarticle.Thatisapersonal approaching whilewewereatanchor,andanighttimeboarding. assault —tothreepossibilities:aboatapproachingwhilewewereunderway, broke downthepotentiallymostdangerousscenarios—thosethatmightinvolve and thieves. folks livingintheCaribbeanandVenezuelaareanattractivetargetforburglars make yourfixedincomemeetcruisingkitty,youarerichcomparedtomany in variousanchoragesVenezuela.Andnomatterhowhardyouarestrugglingto and howtousethem. had touseanyofourprotectiveequipment,butwealwaysknewwheretheywere containers andcarriedbearsprayaflaregun,attimesshotgun.Wenever entering campandbeingsuccessfulingettingyourfood.Weusedbear-resistantfood any locationyouneedtomakeaplanprotectyourselfandpreventthebearfrom as food—campinginheavybrushornearasalmonstreamisnotgoodidea.At surroundings. Youtakestockofthevegetationandsourcesattractantssuch enjoyed cruisingVenezuelainsummerof2008. consider itlargelygoodfortunethatweremainedunmolestedforthefivemonths smarter thanthefolkswhohavebeenvictimsofcrimeandviolenceinVenezuela;I

My husbandandIbothunderstandthat thebestplancouldbeuselessinasec- It surprisedusthatwemetsomanycruisers whohadnosecurityplanandjust We removedtheeasy-to-takestuff,suchasfenders,cushions,boathooksandlife We alwayssleptwithasteelgrateinourcompanionwayandhaveinstalledbar At anchor,weavoidedbehaviorthatthoughtwouldmakeusvulnerable,such In caseofanapproachingboatfullbadguyswedecidedwouldfirsttryto Like preventingbearsfromenteringourcampsitesinAlaska,focus Like avoidingcampinginheavybrushnearasalmonstreamAlaska,ourchoice We reviewedourdefensiveequipment:flaresandflaregun,peppersprayairhorn. My husbandandItalkedaboutwhatwewoulddoinavarietyofscenarios.We Okay, nowbacktoboatsandthediscomfortingrealitythatthereisalotofcrime Back tobears.Whenyoucampinbearcountrybecomeveryawareofyour I Pirates and Bears Pirates andBears in theCaribbean

just tooksensibleprecautions.Havingsaidthat,Idonotconsidermyself camping inbearcountryandwedidnotforgocruisingVenezuela— prepared usinasmallwayforcruisingVenezuela.Wedidnotforgo know itsoundsstrange,butlivinginAlaskaandcampingbearcountry by DeviSharp —Continuedonnextpage JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

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PICK UP! Vemasca and Cumanagoto, Marina Office Compass Compass Cruisers — Don’t Don’t — Cruisers Ahoy, Continued from previous page Continued from Americo Vespucio Marina Aquatic Adventures Dive Shop Aqua Vi Marina Bahia Redonda Mini Market Services Mini Transpacific TBS Mare Mares Marina Tech Marine Oriente (TMO) Marina Puerto La Cruz Oriente Canvas Xanadu Marine Vemasca You can also pick up your copy of Venezuelan mainland at Navimca in Cumana, and in Margarita at free monthly copy of the ers in this issue appear in 10) Make security precautions a regular habit. The more difficult you make things 10) Make security precautions a regular habit. The more 9) If you are involved in an incident, report it to the local authorities (police, coast 9) If you are involved in an incident, report it to the local 8) Many thefts occur while the boat is on the hard. Don’t forget about security 8) Many thefts occur while the boat is on the hard. 7) Ashore, be aware of your environment and dress/act accordingly. Avoid wearing 7) Ashore, be aware of your environment and dress/act 6) Avoid known high-risk anchorages; especially, do not anchor alone there if you 6) Avoid known high-risk anchorages; especially, do not The yacht’s name painted on a dinghy ashore indicates that at least one person is The yacht’s name painted on a dinghy ashore indicates 5) Why broadcast that your yacht will be unoccupied? If using VHF radio to make 5) Why broadcast that your yacht will be unoccupied? 4) Don’t leave attractive items (scuba/snorkeling gear, gas tanks, etcetera) 4) Don’t leave attractive items (scuba/snorkeling 3) Outboards are a major target: always lock them, either to the dinghy when in 3) Outboards are a major target: always lock them, either 2) Have a stash, in case thieves do get below. Separate and hide valuables in mul- 2) Have a stash, in case thieves 1) It is always prudent to lock the 1) It is always prudent Many of these tips on how yachtspeople Many of these tips on how yachtspeople — for the criminal, the more likely he is to leave you and your property alone. Developing for the criminal, the more likely he is to leave you and your a more enjoyable cruise. safety habits and contingency plans will contribute to guard, marina management, tourist office and yachting/marine trade organization) guard, marina management, tourist office and yachting/marine unreported, for all practi- and to the Caribbean Safety and Security Net. An incident cal purposes, never happened. precautions when the yacht is out of the water. flashy clothing and expensive-looking jewelry, displaying large wads of cash, stagger- flashy clothing and expensive-looking jewelry, displaying ing back drunk to the dinghy-dock, etcetera. can avoid it. If you must, use full security precautions. away from the yacht. plans to be off the yacht (e.g. restaurant reservations, tour arrangements or get- plans to be off the yacht (e.g. restaurant reservations, name. If someone is calling a togethers with friends), use your name, not the boat’s caller that the neighbors are neighboring boat on the VHF, don’t helpfully advise the they don’t answer, don’t keep off the boat. If you call another boat on the VHF and in that they are off the boat. calling — you could be alerting someone listening discreetly. Consider getting a cell phone so you can make arrangements unlocked in the dinghy, or on deck when you’re away from the yacht or sleeping. unlocked in the dinghy, or on deck when you’re away use or to the yacht if not. Lock dinghy to dock when ashore (using a long enough use or to the yacht if not. Lock dinghy to dock when too). Hoist and chain the cable or chain so others can get their dinghies to the dock, to the rail or in the dinghy to the yacht at night. Chain the outboard separately cockpit, or stow it below. tiple unpredictable areas. In addition to hiding passports and ship’s papers, hide a addition to hiding passports and ship’s papers, hide tiple unpredictable areas. In the contents of your wallet: copy of each in a different spot. Make two copies of copy to a contact at home and credit cards (both sides), licenses, etcetera. Send one VHF. hide one copy. If possible, hide a spare GPS and handheld yacht when you leave for a trip to shore or a visit to another yacht. Secure all access trip to shore or a visit to another yacht. Secure all access yacht when you leave for a kid ports: it’s amazing how small an opening a skinny points, including hatches and can get through! can avoid being victims of burglary or can avoid being victims of theft come from www.safetyandsecurity- over the net.com/precautions.html where, developed years, a list of tips has been cruisers. through the suggestions of many very different These precautions are not care of your from the way you’d take lock their house or your car: most people and lock their house when they are away yacht is your car when they leave it. Your car. house and your dinghy is your JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 in the1950sandskippered62-footketch Mánamo RiverinVenezuela.BookreviewerMorrisNicholsonsailedtotheCaribbean tips, racereportsandcruisingaccounts,mostrecentlyaboutavoyageupthe sailor andyachtchandleryspecialistRuthLundhaswrittenpoems,cruisingbudget Morris Nicholsonisscheduledtoappearthissummer.Trinidad-basedliveaboard Bequia residentJulieLea’s ranging fromcruisingonabudgettoavoidingfishtraps.Bestknownasanartist, known was publishedinSeptember2008.CruisingguideauthorChrisDoyleisawell- and circumnavigatingsailorCorneliaBrewerisanotherpoet,whosepoem“Adrift” former yachtskipper,voraciousreaderandrock‘n’rollguitarist.Bequiaresident pick uphisrain-checkfortheWriters’Brunch!BookreviewerBobBerlinghofisa a MidnightWatch”waspublishedinSeptember2003,andittookhimthislongto his boatwasdamagedtherebyHurricaneIvan.Tomisapoetwhose“Thoughtson Morning”. Martinique-basedyachtsmanJeremyHobday Barbados residentNanHatch’spoemsincludetheMarch2009issue’s“Grenada a diverseandtalentedgroupofcontributors.Inalphabeticalorder: and formerPrimeMinisterofSt.Vincent&theGrenadines,SirJamesMitchell,was Bookkeeper DebraDavis—aswelloneofourveryfirstguestspeakers,yachtsman Erdle, AssistantEditorElaineOllivierre,ProductionManagerWilfredDedererand “St. John”BryanIV. the pastyear:NormaPrudhon,MariannPalmborg,FredGuntherandJohn meeting placeforoldfriendsandnewacquaintancesinthe throughout theregionandworld. cation sothattheirideasandexperiencescanbesharedwith or gatherinformationaboutaparticularplace,andthensendintheresultforpubli- the efforttoputtheirthoughtsdowninwords,recordaspecialeventorexperience, Sea andShore’.TheannualBrunchinvitationhonorsthosewhomostrecentlymade residents sharingtheiradventuresin,passionforandconcernsabout‘TheCaribbean’s editorial policy.Mostofitscontentisgeneratedbyactivecruisers,yachtracersand sailors intheCaribbean. 13th AnnualCompassWriters’Brunch: and photographythatmakes person toasmanypossibleofthepastyear’scontributorsforwriting,artwork Easter Writers’Brunchisourwayofgettingtogetherwithandsaying“thankyou”in Cruiser TomBarkdull Joining theCompassCockpitCrew—ManagingDirectorTomHopman,EditorSally A farewellwasbiddentofourCompasscontributorswhohadpassedawayduring On Thursday,April9th,some30guestsgatheredinBequiaatMac’sPizzeria,anideal The There GOOD FOODANDFORTHOUGHT Compass Compass is suchathingasfreebrunch!CompassPublishingLtd.’sannualpre- isaforum,shapedmorebywriters’ideasandtalentsthanrigid columnistandphotographer.SailorCarriacou,Trinidad

is aveterinarianwhovolunteeredhisskillsinGrenadaafter

written portraitofpioneeringCaribbeanyachtskipper Caribbean Compass Eleuthera IIf the “mustread”publicationfor

Compass or manyyearsbeforeset- has writtenonsubjects Compass community. readers always theThursdaybeforeEaster. your talentandeffortshopetoseeyouatafutureCompassWriters’Brunch, Mac’s Pizzeriastaff. as tortillaomeletslicesandmangomousse,preparedbyJudySimmonsher was readbyJerryStewart. man AndrewBurke.Histimelyandthought-provokingpresentation(seenextpage) who, however,wasdelayedinBarbadosbythefuneralofhisfellowBarbadianyachts- Yacht HauloutinCarriacou. tling ashoreonBequia.AregularregattareporterisJerryStewartfromTyrrelBay contributors andguests to athoughtfulcrowdof community’s responsetoeconomicrecession presentation ontheCaribbeansailing Jerry Stewart(right),deliveringDickStoute’s To thosemanycontributorsunabletoattendthisyear,wethankyou,too,forall Conversations continuedoverascrumptiousbrunchbuffet,includingtreatssuch This year’sscheduledguestspeakerwasBarbadiansailorandwriterDickStoute Compass

JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 TION 6(&#HANNEL s s MARINA MARIGOTBAYCOM s But how do we develop trust in a recession, when But how do we develop trust The Biblical story of Genesis issues a warning for prudent management over the years and both have prudent management over to build these types of gained significantly. We need sailing community. relationships in the Caribbean economic strains are naturally driving us in the opposite direction? This question requires a personal examination of ourselves to answer the question, who do you trust and why? You can be reasonably sure that other people are very similar to you and your reasons for trusting will be their reasons for trusting. As writers, we are in a good position to do this, as we are naturally students of human nature. A good understanding of human nature and with realistic expecta- tions about the world are both necessary to get through this recession and prepare for the coming recovery. So I am now going to very briefly outline a model of human nature that I think will be very useful, and link this to the changes I expect that this recession will bring to the world community. humanity, which has been misinterpreted and ignored. It warns us not to “eat the fruit of the tree of knowledge of good and evil.” —Continued on next page INTHE#ARIBBEAN "ESTWINDANDSEASHELTERBETWEEN0UERTO2ICOAND6ENEZUELA %XCELLENTCAPTAINANDCREWACCOMMODATIONS SERVICES ANDRELAXA -EGAYACHTBERTHINGINHURRICANECONDITIONS 3ECURITYPATROLSANDSURVEILLANCEATALLTIMES #OMPETITIVELOW SEASONBERTHINGRATES -ARIGOT"AY .ATURES(URRICANE(OLE (AVEYOUMADEPLANSFORTHESUMMERYET 4HENCOMETO-ARIGOT"AYnWEGUARANTEE s s s s s WWWMARIGOTBAYCOM #ONTACT5SFOR$ETAILS But even as this economic downturn threatens hard- But even as this economic downturn you tighten your belt, be mindful of this effect and you tighten your belt, be spending at engaging wherever possible direct your in earning a living. everyone in the community ship it can also bring benefits. The hectic pace of economic wellbeing leads to social separation — there is no time to talk, to build up friendships, to nurture the emotions that need deep, meaningful social contact, but which are ignored when times are good. Hard times provide this opportunity. There are many examples of hardships creating enduring bonds of friendship in a well-managed family or community, bonds that improve the quality of life even as “things get harder”. These relationships of friendship and trust that are built in hard times can bind our community together and create a solid foundation for the economic recovery when that comes along. For example, Goddard Enterprises in Barbados has a long-lasting relationship with the First Caribbean Bank. This relationship started when the then Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce (now First Caribbean) gave Fred Goddard a loan when he was struggling to expand his small shop during difficult economic times. The trust between these organizations has been nurtured by by Dick Stoute . &IVE3TAR,UXURY2ESORTAND3PAn$ISCOVERYAT-ARIGOT"AY 3EVENLOCALRESTAURANTSANDBARS 7ATERSPORTS 2AINFORESTTOURS SKYRIDES BIKETOURS ANDMORE 3HOPHIGH ENDRETAILAT4HE-ARINA6ILLAGE 9ACHTCAPACITYFEET,/!FEETBEAMFEETDRAFT 7I&IANDHIGHSPEEDINTERNETCONNECTION 3INGLEANDTHREEPHASEELECTRICITYAND(Z (IGH SPEEDFUELING &LORALARRANGEMENTS ,IQUORANDFOODPROVISIONING "USINESS#ENTER&ED%X CARRENTAL TRAVELAGENCY 3PAREPARTORDERINGANDDELIVERY #HANDLERY3HOP !IRPORTTRANSFERS 'UESTS #APTAINS AND#REWn %NJOY(IGH END!MENITIES s s s s s &IRST #LASS&ACILITIES 3ERVICES AND3TAFF s s s s s s s s s s 4HE-OST%XCLUSIVE 9ACHTING$ESTINATION

in a World in Recession: World in in a

St. Lucia St. Marigot Bay Marigot

The Marina at The at Marina WHAT SHOULD WE DO? SHOULD WHAT The Caribbean Sailing Community Community Sailing Caribbean The The downturn will be economically challenging for Everyone knows that the world is in an economic Everyone knows that the The following speech was presented at the Compass Publishing Writers’ Brunch was presented at the Compass Publishing The following speech 2009 and appears in print by popular demand from our guests. Dick Stoute is a rac- print by popular demand from our guests. 2009 and appears in Yachting Association, has served as president of the Barbados ing yachtsman who Association (now the measurer of the Caribbean Yachting secretary and chief Chamber of Commerce and president of the Barbados Caribbean Sailing Association), and is now at Reading by profession, Dick recently retired and Industry. An engineer philosophy University studying everyone and prudent financial management will be everyone and prudent financial management will be needed to get through it. This will be more easily achieved if the economic challenges do not lead to escalating crime. Should crime increase significantly this will likely compound the effects of the downturn, as it could drive visitors from our shores and trigger the type of social degradation that we have seen in some Caribbean countries. The Caribbean is particularly vulnerable to this social degradation, as it has inherited many social conflicts. These lie dormant during good times, but can erupt when economic quakes stir up long-buried fears and grievances. So even as recession, but everyone also knows that we will come recession, but everyone also things to be difficult for out of it and, just as we expect recovery will blossom forth a while, we expect that the with new opportunities. We can take comfort in knowing that the economic death we are currently experi- encing has happened many times before and there has always been rebirth. But even as we batten down for the recession we need to prepare for the recovery. What can we expect? How can we position ourselves to participate in the recovery? JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 (evenings) (northern sideofAdmiralty Bay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Bequia Marina

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A S — —Continuedonnextpage environment thatallowstricksterstoflourish. is fullofpeoplewhowouldtrytotakeadvantage ofus”,butprivacyalsocreatesthe “privacy” isafearresponse.Wewantprivacy toprotectourselves,because“theworld understanding feariskeytobuildingconfidence. emotions: hate,prejudice,greed,etcetera. Fearunderminesconfidenceandso doing thisbecauseheisfrightened.Anger isaproductoffear,asareallthenegative violence andaggressionarefearresponses. Thepersonthatiscarryingagun human “fightorflight”responsetofear. Itmaycomeasasurprisetomanythat create confidencedirectly,wecanbuilditupslowlybyunderstandingthevery The FearFactor. our communities,governmentsandreligions.Thatledmetowriteabookcalled to mebecause,leadingupthemillennium,Iwasresearchingeffectsoffear on their roleindecision-making. role ofemotionslikefearandconfidencearecomingunderthespotlightinregard to but wearesurethatbeingwellinformedandeducatedhelps.Inaddition, the as acommunity,makegooddecisions?Nooneatpresentcantellushowtodothis, and, asweimproveourdecision-makingability,thiswillbecomemoreapparent. dealing withincomedisparitywillbemuchbetteroffeconomicallyaswellsocially addressed inuniqueways.Ibelievethatacommunityfindswayofeffectively forces, ordowewanttomaketheworldagoodplaceliveforeveryone?”will be question, “Dowewanttoliveinaprotectedenclaveandgiveuptheworldviolent than havingalargeinefficientadministrationtoachieveroughlythesamegoals? The Why notsimplypaypeoplemoreandletthemdecidehowtospendthemoney,rather the stagewheretheyarehighenoughtodrivearadicalchangeineconomicthinking. tially reducedandthestressesassociatedwiththissystemarealsoreduced. income disparitysothattheincentivesdriveantisocialbehavioraresubstan- Add alltheseupandthencomparethistotalwiththecostsinvolvedinreducing the tax-avoidancegames).Includealsomedicalcostsassociatedwithhighstress. and thecostofredistributingwealth(thevasttaxcollection imprisonment costsandprivatesecuritycosts.Includethecostofwhite-collarcrime fighting terrorism,illegaldrugtrading,policingthecommunity,legalcosts, costs thatareadirectresultofincomeandeducationdisparity:warsalltypes, incomes toincreasewhilehigh-endandinterestratesreduce. out awayofachievingthiswithoutdrivinginflationtoohigh,soIexpectlow-end more andthelendersearnless.Ithinkoureconomistsaresmartenoughtowork world’s balancesheettowithlessborrowing,theborrowerswillhaveearn lower-income consumersgetmoremoneytospend.Itisobviousthat,the through thiscrunchandtheborrowingdrops,consumptionwillcollapseunless problem byprovidingameansofboostingconsumption.Asweworkourway bridge thegapbetweenlowconsumptionandhighproduction.Lendingsolvedthis anism. Thislending/borrowingallowedpoorerpeopletoconsumemoreandso altruism. Theborrowingspreethatledtothisfinancialcrunchwasastopgapmech- between thehavesandhave-nots.Thiswillbedrivenbyeconomics,ratherthan participation, especiallythosewhofinditdifficulttocarveoutaneconomicniche. nomic value.Itentailstheworkingcommunityfindingwaystoencourageeveryone’s builds resentment. for themselves.Evenasitrelieveshunger,providesanegativeself-imageand It tellsthemthattheyaresomehowlessthanequal,inferior,andunabletofend expensive andeconomicallyinefficient,givingaidinsultsthepeopleitisgivento. education. Idon’tthinkthiscanbedonewithaid,because,apartfrombeing of lowinflationandinterestratesthatwillbegreatbenefittotheworld. redesign willmakefinancessimplerfortheaveragepersonandproducealongperiod system will,Ithink,releasemuchoftheseresourcestootherareasendeavor.This casino. Thistookexpensiveresourcesawayfromtheplacesthatneededit.Aredesigned ed toomuchoftheworld’stalentandthenusedittocreateanelaborategambling and ourfinancialregulationswillbecomesimpler.Ourcurrentsystemattract- drive, forexampleinthesailingrules,andIexpectthatsimilarreasoningwillprevail build abetterone.Whatcanweexpectinthecurrentredesign? away from,wecannotwalkfromsocietyandthestressescontinuetobuildup. place inbusinessandfinance,butwhileyachtracingissomethingwecanwalk fewer resourcesaredevotedtothethingsweenjoy.Thesameevolutionhastaken resources areshiftedintopolicingandregulation—thingsthatincreasestress course judges’.Allthisaddssignificantlytothecostofadministeringaregatta.As perhaps secondary.Thesedon’tquitedothetrick,sowethenstartusing‘on sport. Thenextstepismatchracingwhererulesbecomedominantandsailingskills skill attheprotesthearingthenbecomesanintegralpartofskillsneededfor using therulestogainanadvantage.Thisforcesevenmorecomplicatedrules,and which aremorecomplicated.Thenthegameevolvesfromsimplyavoidingcollisionsto at sea,butthesearenotadequatetodealwithracing,soracingrulesadopted of laws,andthesocietyslowlystagnatesasitbecomeslessefficient. nity asitgoes.Thereisaclamorformorelaws,regulationandpolicing vades thewholecommunityandgraduallydestroysrelationshipscommu- business schoolsteachitasifisthesmartthingtodo.Thisslowevolutionper- This wayoflivingbecomesthenorm There areseveralapparentlycontradictory socialresponsestofear.Forexample, Many peoplearenowemphasizingtheneedforconfidence.Thisisveryinteresting To achieveallthisweneedtoimproveourdecision-makingskills.Buthowdowe, Although thesecostscannotbeaccuratelyassessed,Ithinkthatwearegetting to There areotherbenefitsaswell.Fromapurelyeconomicperspective,addupthe Coming outofthisfinancialcrisis,Ithinkwecanexpectamoreequitablebalance The solutionhastobeonethatengageseveryoneintheprocessofgeneratingeco- I expectthattherewillbearealefforttoaddresstheissueofpovertyandlack I expectthattherewillbeagreatefforttomakethingssimpler.Thishasbeenthe Occasionally thissystemfails,asithasnowdone,andwehaveanopportunityto We cantracethisevolutioninsailing.Firsttherearesimplerulestoavoidcollisions As thesocietyevolves,peoplerespondtothisandgraduallya‘game’emerges The Churchhasturnedthisintoanenduring,unavoidablecurse,andthenpro- Continued frompreviouspage Fear istheoppositeofconfidence.Itseemsthatwhilewecannot JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

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for inviting me to make this presentation Compass See how to subscribe at: Scott Nichols Schooner Satori 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! www.caribbeancompass.com Compass is the best! Continued from previous page Continued from In closing I would like to thank As writers our role is to seek understanding and explain what we learn while we As writers our role is to seek understanding and explain We can get beyond the very superficial good and evil “reasons” that are so popular We can get beyond the very superficial good and evil “reasons” With this in mind I ask, what can we do as writers? How can we use our consider- With this in mind I ask, what can we do as writers? How I expect that there will be significant effort devoted to making things simpler — significant effort devoted to making things simpler I expect that there will be If we are lucky, we will emerge from this recession with a different attitude to busi- If we are lucky, we will emerge We need to be able to accept that it is fear that makes us want to be dominant. that it is fear that makes us want to be dominant. We need to be able to accept This recession provides an ideal environment and opportunity to focus on the skills and opportunity to focus provides an ideal environment This recession Privacy is like darkness — it inhibits information flow. Darkness facilitates crime. flow. Darkness facilitates darkness — it inhibits information Privacy is like entertain and inform. This will help our readers to become more confident, have a entertain and inform. This will help our readers to become We need to focus on building more open dialogue and feel freer to enjoy each other. destroying them by dwelling communities by illustrating what can be done and not biggest challenge is income- on the negative. The Caribbean is a great place. Its of trust. We can help build the imbalance resulting from lack of knowledge and lack how we can help the yachting trust and help with the educational project. This is and prepare it to take community gain strength during an economic recession advantage of the recovery when it comes. in the Caribbean and illustrate the simple formula that people are socially destruc- in the Caribbean and illustrate the simple formula that when confident; encourage tive when they are frightened and socially constructive is responding to a threat and readers to understand how they can tell when someone to provide that confidence by encourage them to display confidence. We can help sensitizes our readers to the illuminating the issues we write about in a way that good/evil façade. This human issues lurking in the darkness behind the judgmental — find out and explain is a great opportunity for writers to probe in the darkness and steering clear of why people behave as they do while avoiding being judgmental the fruit of that mythical tree. able influence to help this trend along? I think that history will deal harshly with able influence to help this trend along? I think that skill to simply escalate fear in writers who have taken the easy road and used their go wrong, gloat over what has the society. It takes little skill to point out what can to evoke the fear response; gone wrong, or be judgmental and point fingers. It is easy readers with an alterna- little skill is needed to do this. The skill comes in providing one that illuminates issues tive viewpoint, one that they may not have considered, human nature. As writers we from another perspective, or provides insights about Remember the Genesis must be wary of seeing issues in terms of right and wrong. from the tree of knowledge of warning about the consequences of “eating the fruit destructive. good and evil” and avoid being judgmental — it is very and thank you for listening. especially in finance and business, and hopefully in government as well. The infor- especially in finance and business, to assist with this. The current hurdle is human emotion: mation revolution is poised These are what we need fear of change, fear of being disadvantaged, fear of exposure. very competitive struggle to to focus on now and overcome while we engage in the achieve simplicity and efficiency. ness, one that places more emphasis on integrity and trust and less effort in antiso- ness, one that places more its business community takes its leadership cues from cial directions. If the USA’s and expect that they will focus more on relationships current President, we can the all the stakeholders. Should this happen, I think working out deals that benefit will welcome it, as this is the way we prefer to operate. Caribbean businesspeople When we realize this, we will automatically want to distance ourselves from demon- When we realize this, we will on by the way we behave, and this will put emphasis strating that we are frightened — networking. Networking builds confidence an alternative mode of organization and allows a plan to evolve from discussion rather through equitable interaction we dominant faction. The world will be a better place if than being imposed by some give other for our mutual benefit and we now need to can agree to work with each a good shot. the networking alternative needed to increase confidence. In the Caribbean, this is the key to reducing crime this is the key to confidence. In the Caribbean, needed to increase understanding is essential for this to happen. Increased and violence. The light of investment, helps you make friends, and adds confidence also leads to increased of life. considerably to your quality Just as street crime is suppressed by streetlights, white-collar crime is suppressed white-collar crime crime is suppressed by streetlights, Just as street flow encour- restriction of information flow. In the Caribbean, by free information to light is very that links information activity. The metaphor ages a lot of antisocial so we need conjures up many threats, is no light our imagination apt. When there our people’s at a social level and reduce to address the privacy issue light — we need against crime. — so we can make progress fear of disclosure — JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

AND NOWIT’STIMEFORSOMESUMMERFUNGAMES! HIGH SEASONISWINDINGDOWN— Compass CruisingCrossword ©

Caribbean Compass2009 Word SearchPuzzlebyPaulineDolinski Word SearchPuzzlesolutionon page31 ‘ON THEHALFSHELL’ usedtoharvestthe14Across 32) Tongersanddredgersaretypesofthis 30) Whalefood abrown-and-whitepattern 28) A_____-wingconchshellhas 11Across 27) 25) Hardoutercoveringofcertainorganisms 24) Hardframeworkofananimal’sbody thatspendtheirlivesonrocks 22) 2Downsshapedlikevolcanoes 20) Varietyof11Acrossor24 18) Arthropodsthatslowyour32Down 17) Animalbelongingtothelargestmarinephylum 15) ____-fried:popularwaytoeatbivalves 14) Reef-buildingmarineorganism 13) Heroofstoryonpage34 11) ____4Down:smallfreshwater31Across andaLatin_____ 10) Most25Down4haveacommon suchasa25Down 8) ___24Down:externalphysicalframework, 6) Cone25Down4aresensitivetothis 4) Membersofsomereligionsdon’teat25Down____ 3) 11Acrossesand31canbecaughtinthis 2) Gastropodwitha25Down DOWN 35) Largest7Acrosscreatureshavinga25Down 34) A21Acrosshasmanyblueones 33) Anotherwordfor4Down3 31) Thesecanbespiny,slipperorclawed 29) Aturtle’s25Down 26) Geo____:largesaltwater14Across 25) Deliciousdecapod 23) Many25Down4liveona14____ 21) Onesideofits25Downisflat 19) ____4Down:echinodermalsoknownasSeaStar 16) 11Acrosswhomovesintoothers’25Downs 14) Steamitanddipinlemonbutter 12) Conchhavejustone 11) Thiscanbesoft-shelled 9) Largeshrimp 7) ___foodincludesbivalvesandcrustaceans 5) 28Down____turtlesarefamousfortheirshells 1) French2Down ACROSS Grapsus grapsus Crossword Solutiononpage21 : _____6Down12Across JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

d s n t a e l fact-oids IIslands o PPoets NOAA

They growl and snarl and trample. growl They in floods of terror. havoc rain They twisted debris, Howling winds leave path. Marking their merciless No technology can turn them; we have them; No spell we cast will defeat will thwartNo weapon we have them; we matter not at all. them To Rich or poor, black or white, All cower as they approach. their onslaught, before Powerless can only watch and wait and pray. We — John Rowland John — S — Keith Blount T

S [email protected] A R E E Good-bye, dear friend of our sailing life, You took good care of me and my wife Through all our adventures, great and small You were the vessel that enabled it all. But now our bones ache, although yours remain strong. We two won’t be able to sail the seas long But you can keep voyaging into the blue. too. Our hearts will go with you, and with your new owners, B On Selling

F E M O H

U Spawned on the dark continent, hunger, by ravenous Driven the jungle from emerge They to the sea. eagerly And take forces, Guided by Nature’s a solitary path. Each takes the sea turtlesLike and the fishes, survive.Only the strong on heat and moisture, feeding Growing, the whims of the gods, Following westward, ever move The Oblivious to all in their path. THE BEASTS BEASTS TTHE OF SSUMMER

parlumps marooned

BARNACLES

18) 20) FAIRY 22) LIMPETS 24) SKELETON 25) SHELL 27) SALLY 28) HAWKS 30) KRILL 32) BOAT (22 Jun - 23 Jul) LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug) 33) POT 34) EYES 35) TURTLES DOWN 2) SNAIL 3) TRAP 4) FISH 6) LIGHT 8) EXO 10) NAME 11) CRAY 13) OYSTER 14) CORAL 15) DEEP 17) MOLLUSK LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct) PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar) ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr) VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep) GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun) TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May) SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov) AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb) CANCER CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan) SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec) JUNE 2009 Start thinking about things that need doing on board to be It’s time to make and mend. Your business or financial After last month’s hit-or-miss environment, this month Time to up anchor and be on your way, both in your Last month’s storm is over, the sun is shining and dark Relationships on board will have attained an even keel by Keep steering a steady business course and you will A newly found romance might head for the rocks as You’ve got three weeks to clear up those boat projects The skies should be clear and seas boringly calm this This month should give you a welcome break from the This month should give you a The rough seas that made Aries’ life an emotional wet prepared for the fresh winds of energy arriving on the 15th. situation might be in the doldrums, but there are still projects on board that you can accomplish. should be back on course. Your generous sense of humor will sail back to see you through any leftover problems. sailing life and in your romantic one. clouds are sailing away. Gather friends on board to celebrate! now, so use this month to rebuild the good feelings dam- aged by the climate of antagonism suffered during May. reach a harbor full of benefits in the coming months. Your attention to detail will serve you well at this time. temper-tempests rise. Only working on shipboard cooperation will save you from a breakup. you started last month. Communications from an old friend will be a nice addition to your positive attitude. June. Try to do fun things with crew at this time to cement good relationships on board. emotional squalls you slogged through last month. Ease emotional squalls you slogged the positive and pleasant the sheets and set a course for aspects of your life. ride in May are storming their way through Taurus this June. These conditions will last for several weeks. Your strength of character will sail you through if you exercise your famous Taurus patience and cheerfulness. Crossword Solution ACROSS 1) ESCARGOT 5) BILL 7) SEA 9) PRAWN 11) CRAB 12) FOOT 14) CLAM 16) HERMIT 19) STAR 21) SCALLOP 23) REEF 25) SHRIMP 26) DUCK 29) CARAPACE 31) LOBSTERS JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © your dinner?” “Mr. Oyster,whydidyoucementyourselftotherock?Isn’titbetterifcanchase attached totherocks,wantedsomequestionsanswered.Hebeganinhisloudway: help wouldbe.Whiletheywaited,Mike,whohadn’ttakenanynoticeoftheOysters and allthemanyfishthathadgatheredaroundhim,wonderedwherewhatthis long, helpwouldbeonitsway. the assembledfishthatmessagewasreceived,hadbeenpassedonandbefore there wassilenceagainandthetremblinginwaterhadceased,Mr.Oystertold from allaroundthesmallbayuntilvibrationsshookrocksthemselves.When until thewaterbegantoshiver.Whenhestoppedatlast,answeringrumblescame reinforcements. Now,bequiet.” long timeago,Ihaveveryinfluentialfriendsthatareonlyacallaway.” Snapper, soIwilldowhatcantohelp.Althoughcementedmyselfthisrocka eat herlater,sowehavenotimetolose!” peared intohisdenbeneaththereef.He’skeepingheraprisonerandperhapshewill carried heraway,shescreamedforhelpandwehearduntiltheybothdisap- you knowBullettheDogSnapperhasnotswallowedyourpoorwifealready?” napped byBullettheDogSnapperandwe’retryingtothinkofawayrescueher!” make yournoisesomewhereelse.” and thatoutlandishdinthecrowdofyouismakingannoying!Nowgoaway annoy anyonewhohasnoears?” agitation. “Isaid,don’tyouknowanoiseannoysanOyster?” surface ofthewaterhesawaverylargeOyster.Itwasclappingitsshellstogetherin Fred theJawFish,whohadaprettypale-bluebodyendinginbluntyellowhead, Mr. Oysterbegantomakealowrumblingsoundanditgrewlouder “Oh, weOysterscanallcommunicatewitheachotherandtogetherwillcallfor “But wherearethey?”demandedMike,“andhowcanyoucallthem?” “Hmmmm,” Mr.Oysterrumbled,“IcanseethatyouhavenochanceagainstaDog “Oh no,Mr.Oyster.Bulletheldherinhismouthbehindsharpteethandashe Mr. Oysterwasnotanunkindpersonandheatoncecalmeddown.“Buthowdo “But Mr.Oyster,sir,”spokeupFred,atimidlittleJawFish,“Mywifehasbeenkid- “You’renotonlyafoolbutanignorantone!WeOystershaveverysensitivehearing “Whatrubbish!”buttedinMike,theaggressiveDamselFish.“Howcananoise Terry theAngelFishlookedup.Thereabovehimonbigrockjustunder “Me, youfool!” “Who saidthat?” cles ofthepolyphavespecialstingingcells ontheoutside,likethoseofjellyfish. like aminiatureseaanemone. is themouthanditsurroundedbysix or eighttentacles.Thecoralpolyplooks tres long.Apolypismadeupofatubewith anopeninginthetop.This called coralpolyps. attached. Infact,boththe‘rocks’and ‘plants’aremadefromtinyanimals ly shapedstructuresontheseabedwith somewavingplant-likeorganisms know moreaboutthem. The insideofthepolypistakenupmostly byitsdigestivesystem.Thetenta- Some polypsareastinyagrainofsand whileothersmaybeafewcentime- When youthinkofcoralreefs,I’msuresomehard,rocky,strange- If wearegoingtoconserveandprotectourcoralreefs,perhapsshould Don’t YouKnow a NoiseAnnoys DOLLY’S DEEP an Oyster? a n H d e SECRETS l

m PROUDLY SPONSOREDBYPETITST.VINCENTRESORT by ElaineOllivierre l o What aretheyandhowmade? y !

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a y . CRUISING KIDS’CORNER ate theyproduceisformedinsmallspikescalled flexible skeletonsmadeofatoughproteincalled which doesnotproducethelimestonecup.Instead,thesesoftcoralpolypshave remains ofthedeadpolyps. reefs. Thelivingpolypsalwaysliveonthesurfaceofreef,sittingrocky brain coralpolypsjoininlinesthatlooklikethegroovesonabrain. the polypcupsjoinwillshowyoudifferentkindsofhardcoral.Forexample, polyps arejoinedtogetherintheirlimestonecups.Thepatternsmadebyhow tissues connecteachpolypwiththosearounditsothat,eventually,millionsof This supportsthebodyofpolypinasortcupcalled base ofthepolypproduceahardsubstancelikelimestone(calciumcarbonate). Instead, theyformanexo-skeletonoutsideoftheirbodies.Specialcellsonthe those thatlooklikerocks.Stonycoralpolypshavenobonesinsidetheirbodies. digests itandthenexpelsthewastematerialbackthroughmouth. polyp feedsmostlyonanimalplankton.Ittakestheplanktonfromseawater, These arecallednematocystsandtheyhelptocatchfoodforthepolyp.The that thecoralscanbend. with thecalciumcarbonateofcoral to makecarbondioxidegas. on it.Whatdoyounotice? one littleJawFish.Soyousee,everylife,nomatterhowsmall,isprecious.” in anyemergencyandtheywouldcome.Andsodid,eventosavethelifeofjust Oyster chuckledatthememory.“So,ingratitudeDogSnapperssaidtocallthem before theDogSnapperscouldbecaughtandroaredofftosavethemselves”.Mr. earthquake andthefishermenbelievedthatiswhatitwas,sotheypulledinnet we setupsuchahugerumblingthatthewholebayshookjustlikeveryworst that wildcreaturesshouldbeallowedtolivetheirlivesaccordingnatures,so driving agreatnumberofDogSnapperstowardsthebignet.Well,weOystersbelieve waited toseewhattheywereupto.Beforelongwesawthatmorefishingboats engines cameintothisbayanddroppedaverylargenet.Itwokeusallupwe answer yourcall?” disturb youagain.WhatdidOystersdotomakethoseDogSnapperspromise friend, Mr.Oyster,andasked,“Justonelastthingthenwe’llpromiseneverto Bullet. Aftertheclappingandcheeringhaddieddown,Miketurnedtohisnew the littleJawFishwifeandriddingbayofsuchanunwelcomeneighbouras returned toMr.OysterthankhimandalltheotherOystersinbayforsaving the reef. immediately pushedandbuttednippedatuntiltheyhadhimsafelyawayfrom that hisfellowswouldseepointincollectinganeasydinner,butBulletwas rounded.” Dog Snapperscalledoutinacommandingvoice,“Comeonout!Wehaveyousur- surrounded thedenwherekidnapperhidwithhisprisoner.Thebiggestof never will.” have cometosaveMr.JawFish’swife.Theydon’twanteatanyoneinthisbayand all along,togetridofussoyoucouldenjoyyourprecioussilence!” fright butMikepluckedupthecouragetosay,“Sothatwaswhatyouhadplanned ship fightingDogSnappershadarrived. navy wasenteringthebay.Andthatexactlyright—anentireofbig,battle- lived inthebayinterruptedwithagreatdealofexcitement,sayingthatanentire pluck outhisinnardsandswallowthemwhole,whenalltheotherseacreaturesthat smallest ofcurrents.” creatures thatyou,withyourimpatience,can’tsee,getcarriedintomymouthbythe not havetochasemydinnerbecauseallIdoisopenshellacrackandthelittle What aboutthecoralsthatlooklikeplants? As thepolypsdie,theirskeletonsareleft.Thesehardstonystructuresform How manytypesofcoralpolypsarethere? You shouldseesomefizzingandbubbles givenoff.Theacidliquidreacts Find asmallpieceofdeadcoralonthebeach. Dropsomelimejuiceorvinegar EXPERIMENT THEEND Mr. Oystersmiled.“Onedayanumberoffishingboatswiththeirnoisyoutboard After FredtheJawFishandothershadrescuedFred’sterrifiedwife,they You canbesurethatthecowardlyBulletthoughthehadbetterobeyandhoped Mike andtheothershoveredwheretheywerewatchedasDogSnappers “No,no!”Mr.Oysterboomed.“TheDogSnappersoweusOystersafavourandthey When thefishessawwhatsortofanavythiswas,theyallbegantoshakewith Mike wasabouttoaskMr.Oysterwhybigfishdidn’tjustscrapehimofftherock, The wise,oldMr.Oyster,wholikedtokeephimselfhimself,sighedwearily.“Ido ‘What didyouOystersdotomakethoseDog Snappers promisetoansweryourcall?’ Theseareanothertypeofpolyp gorgonin Onetypeformshardcorals, spicules . Thecalciumcarbon- setinasoftgelso corallite . Special JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 From my tiny 30-foot sailboat in the jungles of 30-foot sailboat in the From my tiny gold. They wore a gold The pirates of old relied on the internet is down, I haven’t done any research, is a great equalizer and I do think though that death earrings there are in a If I could work out how many It’s raining even harder now, the river is the colour h w t p r y a h K t a j n p m o t t t Guatemala, I Skyped a bullion dealer in the UK and Skyped a bullion dealer in Guatemala, I form to buy. price of gold and the best discussed the is that? They recommended How incongruous Krugerrands. burial. Imagine going into a earring to pay for a decent offering a gold earring in funeral director’s now and payment for a funeral. would cost about four but I would guess a funeral of a pound of gold. Even Krugerrands; that’s a quarter to find enough places the spunkiest punk isn’t going that weight of body orna- to pierce to carry around to cash a Krugerrand in ments. And imagine trying get change for bank note places where it’s difficult to worth US$10? would better off com- the newspapers and the BBC in different countries, paring the cost of funerals guage the cost of living, if rather than groceries, to all, the cost of disposing of you see what I mean. After affected by the weather or a corpse isn’t going to be hungry locusts. Krugerrand I could work out the rate of inflation since the days when Anne Bonnie and Mary Read romped across the Spanish Main. That information would be just as useful as all the statistics we pay a fortune for now and that were obviously above the heads of the politicians, or studiously ignored, before this financial mess forced itself on my Caribbean mind set. of milk chocolate but not nearly so appetizing and the wind is getting up so I’m definitely still under the influence of Tropical Depression Number 16 and the coffee/sugar buzz has worn off, in case you hadn’t guessed. by Julia Bartlett in the UK. I Skyped a From my tiny From my tiny bullion dealer in the jungles of Guatemala, 30-foot sailboat 30-foot sailboat THIS CRUISING LIFE THIS CRUISING Tropical Tropical Depression How incongruous is that? man- it still hasn’t come it still hasn’t come AM black spot, across my newly oiled teak. black spot, across my newly means no internet, no BBC news with cosy while I was checking my docklines against the against the while I was checking my docklines , and the generator for tomorrow. At the tomorrow. At the , and the generator for PM AM Back on board I dripped below, pushing the humid- Back on board I dripped below, In the twilight of mid-morning I’m curled up below, of mid-morning I’m curled In the twilight activity, a slowing of It’s another day of restricted It’s raining colourless, cool cascades that drum cool cascades It’s raining colourless, However, I’m going to be all right because the British Out there, somewhere far away, history is being No luz back on. I’m saving the ship’s batteries for this eve- back on. I’m saving the ship’s night will descend before ning, when the tropical 6:00 ity to 199 percent and fostering a new bloom of ity to 199 percent and fostering cha negra, feet chilled from a precarious, barefoot trip along the a precarious, barefoot feet chilled from that only two form the dock. Planks slick planks that searing my soles, nowdays ago glared white and fierce, treacherously lying in waitshimmer a wet, slinky black, in haste. So patiently Ifor the unwary who dare tread of a soaking, my rewardshuffled, taking my full quota had a full cistern so avoid- was finding a toilet that still behind a pan of pooh,ing the embarrassment of leaving laden with sugar to boot. Iand I snagged a hot coffee now I’m on a buzz. don’t normally take sugar so The electricity went off at pace and of introspection. 4:20 down the deck in waves. down the deck Government is guaranteeing my minuscule savings. Government is guaranteeing my minuscule savings. Mind you, these are the very people who lied to me about Iraq having weapons of mass destruction, so why would I believe them? I don’t! I’m thinking of buying gold instead. made on fast forward, fast enough for me to become made on fast forward, fast enough for me to become terrifyingly aware that that we, the humans who thought up the financial systems of the planet, have lost control. We are creating things we can’t control, even our exchange system, and that’s all it really is — a glorified barter system. British voices relaying the latest chapter of the global British voices relaying the latest chapter of the global plunge into a financial abyss that’s happening out there, in the developed world. The words recession and depression are bandied around and I gather that “recession” is curable and “depression” is terminal but I haven’t heard any informed explanation. rising floodwaters. At 11:00 lit for comfort moment I have a single candle-lamp rather than the light. JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 better bookthat’sboundtoemergeaboutsuchafruitfulsubject. is prettypainlessreading,andwillpiqueyourinterestprimemindfor the with majoreventsglossedoverandminoronesplayeddiscordantlyloud.Still, this “Where’s theeditor?”Ikeptwondering.It’slooseandunfocussed,eventone-deaf, and thenearlyneo-colonialpowerofmulti-nationalconglomerates. at theendof2007,seemedstrangelyprescientonsubjectglobaleconomy actions haveirrevocablyshapedtheAmericas.Thisbook’sepilogue,probablywritten hemisphere. TheeffectsofUnitedFruitCompany’s(nowrebrandedasChiquita) United Fruitownedthemajorityoflandinthatcountry. example, theystoodbyasareformgovernmentwasoverthrownin1954.Atonepoint ally becameEisenhower’sSecretaryofStateandheadtheCIA.InGuatemala,for the region.ConvenientlyforUnitedFruit,itsyouthfullawyer,namedDulles,eventu- prints” alloverCentralAmerica,forthenextcentury. no wonderUnitedFruitbecameknownatElPulpo,theoctopus,with“tentacle any governmentreforminitiativesbenefittingpeasants. vast acreage,muchofitunused,preventedcompetition,andhadtheeffectstifling them forsuchaprofitthathereturnedagainandagain. Exhibit createdinterestinbananas;aBostonschoonercaptainlookingforcargosold way, andtheseweremanyintheGildedAge,beyond.TheAmericanCentennial 1871 itwastobuildtherailroadthatwouldmovecountry’scoffeemarket. banana barons. ing. Populardemandforbananasdidnotarise,itwascreatedbytheearly ter viewprevailed. there be“freetrade”betweenthemulti-nationalconglomerates?Eventually,lat- agricultural producefromtheirformercolonies?Or,astheUSpreferred,should that occupiedthe1990s.ShouldEuropeancountriesbeabletogivepreference might think. 10:84195-881-6. Chapman. CanongateBooks,EdinburghandNewYork,©2007.224pages.ISBN- BOOK REVIEWBYTHECARIBBEANBOOKWORM But Chapmancouldhavewrittenabetterbookwithsuchripematerialathand. I finditfascinatinghowinterwovenpolitics,economics,evenmarketing,areinthis That istheshortversion,whichcanbevariedandexpandedforeachcountryin Add tothisnotoriouslyruthlesslaborpractices,briberyandexploitation,well,it’s The railroadbroughtpoliticalpowerandeconomicaccesstomarkets.Controlof United Fruit,throughoutitshistory,madefulluseofeveryopportunitythatcame The ubiquityofbananasinthemodernfruitbowlisastorymarket- Bananas wereattheheartoftradewarbetweenUnitedStatesandEurope A bookaboutbananas?There’smoretotheubiquitousyellowfruitthanyou Bananas: HowtheUnitedFruitCompanyShapedWorld P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 E-mail: [email protected] TTHE BIG BBANANA WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL West Indies. H (range limitedbythehills) VHFCh16&68 A E N

A B ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE N CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED first cametoCostaRicain because founderMinorKeith Land Company,though, called UnitedRailroadand company shouldhavebeen above iterations.Maybethe the bananaineachof which wassynonymouswith agriculture. example ofunhealthymodern ulation. They’reacautionary aging toland,waterandpop- brew ofchemicalsthatisdam- be controlledwithoutawitch’s disease isrife,andcanbarely mono-culture forsolongthat have beencultivatedasa tions. toward extra-legalcorpora- impoverished countriesand power awayfromsmall, has swungthebalanceof say thatunbridledcapitalism populations. Or,youcould ests thanthegoodoftheir their personaleconomicinter- decisions arebasedmoreon leaders have“soldout”,whose atory termforcountrieswhose republics”, right?It’saderog- WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES Enter UnitedFruitCompany, Bananas aredying.They Bananas comefrom“banana I TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY G A

, byPeter Fun, with was alightheartedrompthatshowedpromise;Putley’sfollow-up, USVI, 301pages.ISBN978-0-9667923-7-9. Julian Putley;Ihopeyoucangetthescreenplay produced! of seamanship,aswhenJCisonthe bridge ofthe tains. Thelocaldialectiswellwrittenand thenovelshineswhenitcomestoareas of foreignersbuyinguplargetractsland makesthisnovelresonatewhileitenter- action, butaddtotheimportanceofit. The seriousnessandtimelinessoftheissue buy upthefailedbananaestatesashecruisesinhismega-yacht, bananas fromCostaRicacouldfloodthemarket.Welchisnowonlookoutto end ofpricesupportsforWindwardIslandbananasinEurope,sothatcheaper CEO oftheUnitedFruitCompany,corporationthatsuccessfullylobbiedfor lionaire andtheascentofapoorbutpiouslocalfisherman.SolomonWelchis fact aworkofart. islanders. Asaresult, an enjoyablesatire—butonethatalsotakesontheissueofexploitation who inhisownwayisexploitingtheislanders asmuchWelchandHarrington. throughout, thoughattimestheactionisslowedbyoverlongsermonsofCharles, story ismuddledsomewhatbyambiguity.Thetoneremainslightandbreezy their justcause.Sowhatappearsonthesurfacetobeasimplegoodguy/bad guy that isnotstrictlylegal,butthereaderforgivesthemtheirtrespassesbecause of mendation asyachtcrew.JCandDelroyalsoconspiretobringdownWelchina way boss, thoughthisisexcusedbecausetheyonlywantedaglowingletterofrecom- the killertogofree. status, afairtrialisoutofthequestion.Oncethisestablisheditfarbetter for perp thereaderfindsoutmurderwasinfactanaccident,andbecausehis low normally wouldhaveachillingeffectonthetoneofnovel,butbyidentifying the Bungle, andBallzuptodestroytheevidenceallowkillerremainfree.This suspense bytellinguswhothemurdererisinnextchapter.ItuptoBotch, against sellingtheirlandtoWelch. well asotherexamplesofcorporatemalfeasance,inanefforttomobilizepeople government inGuatemala,as bringing downtheelected Fruit’s CIAconnectionsin tells thetruestoryofUnited and historian.RasFrankie an outspokenganjafarmer the lawyer,andRasFrankie, provide comicrelief;Reephoff Balzup, KeystoneCopswho and BungleaswellSergeant rumshop; InspectorsBotch as SooniwhoworksatMello’s Asian-African beautyknown allies himselfwithWelch;an ister, ClemHarrington,who the corruptgovernmentmin- gees. Othercharactersinclude downtrodden Haitianrefu- with anewfoundconcernfor and Delroyemergesasahero case isthrownoutofcourt cent Delroytojail,butthe evidence thatsendstheinno- In anironictwist,Murphyhas wishes tostarthisownbank. avoid taxes,whileCharles offshore shellcompaniesto tize hiscompanyinaseriesof ment. Welchwantstopriva- maximum returnoninvest- Charles intheirquestfor Solomon WelchandPastor banker whoisofusetoboth William Murphyisanoffshore ters toroundouttheaction. Welch andlimithispurchasestoonlyoneestate. Welch’s acquisitionofhugetractsland.WithJC’shelp,theymanagetooutwit a swimmingpool.DelroyformstheDominadaActionMovementtotryandblock whose chiefconcernseemedtobethebuildingofhis5,000-square-foothousewith in touchwithpeople’severydaydilemmasandmoralquandariesthanCharles, the BibleunderPastorCharlesandsoonbecamehisstarpreacher.Delroywasmore had hisprayersanswered,whichcausedconversiontoChristianity.Hestudied the “miracleminister”.Delroywasatypicalrum-drinkingfishermanwholiterally against him. JC andShirleysoonpartwayswithWelchjointhelocalswhoareorganizing with theirconcernforlocals,whileWelchisaracistaswellcorruptcapitalist. run byskipperJCandhiswife,Shirley.Thetwoaremoretypicalofislandcruisers Moral Undertones Julian Putley’sfirstnovel, Sunfun Gospel Putley skillfullythreadstogetherhisstoriesofthecomeuppanceanamoralbil- Sunfun Gospel In anothermoraltwist,JCandShirleyarenotaboveblackmailingtheirformer The murderofHarringtonprovidesabriefmystery,buttheauthorpunctures There aremanysidecharac- Opposing Welch’slandlustonthefictionalislandofDominadaisDelroyFrazer, BOOK REVIEWBYBOBBERLINGHOF isbasicallyafunreadwithmoralundertones thatdonotruinthe , byJulianPutley,VirginIslandBooks,©2009,CruzBay,St.John, Sunfun Gospel Sunfun Calypso emergesasamorematureworkoffiction,in (reviewedby Big Banana Compass . Congratulations Sunfun Gospel inMay,1999), Big Banana, , is

JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Fishtraps! Cruiser Profiles Read in … and more Compass Next Month’s The Inaugural West Indies Regatta Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. 1 teaspoon lemon juice oil with the cumin and In a large frying pan heat the use olive instead of Option: For an Italian flavor, Deomatie’s Chataigne Curry One good-sized, partially immature breadnut fruit 2 Tablespoons oil 1 Tablespoon curry powder 1/2 teaspoon anchar massala 1 1/2 Cups water 4 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 medium onion, chopped 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 Cup coconut milk 1/2 teaspoon roasted geera Halve the breadnut fruit, remove and discard core. In a good-sized pot heat the oil, and add curry pow- Cook until mixture just begins to stick. Add coconut FOR THE GARDENER A breadnut tree makes a great addition to any tropi- Leave a 20-foot radius clear where you finally put Water during the dry months and every two months mustard seeds until the seeds start to pop open. Add mustard seeds until the seeds fry till brown. Add the the onion and garlic and until it becomes a thin chopped tomatoes and simmer pepper, breadnuts and paste. Add chadon bene, turmeric, salt and chickpeas with the garam massala, on the consistency water. (Amount of water depends more for thin.) Simmer for you desire: less for thick, Serve with rice. half an hour. Add lemon juice. basil and thyme for the peanut oil; substitute oregano, add more garlic. Serve chadon bene and spices; and over pasta. Remove seeds and peel. Strip the surrounding husk into thin pieces and peel. Wash seeds and husk and set aside. der and anchar massala. As the powder starts to siz- zle, add 1/2 Cup of the water and stir until it thickens. Add garlic and onion and simmer until it becomes a thin paste. Add breadnut husk, seeds and salt. Lower heat and cover. milk with remaining Cup of water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and cover. Simmer for half an hour till the seeds are soft. Cook off all extra liquid. Add geera and cook five more minutes. Cool and serve. cal garden that has deep, well-drained soil and adequate rainfall. Find someone that has a healthy tree and check around for shoots near rotting fruit, or try your luck with seeds. The breadnut shoot can first be potted and used indoors. this tree. Make certain the area is well drained and away from your septic tank as the roots will invade it. This tree is best planted where it doesn’t get sunshine the entire day and will enjoy occasionally moist soil. Plant in a hole worked about a foot and a half deep. broadcast some starter 12-24-12 fertilizer. A breadnut tree is very adaptable. Given the right conditions the tree can reach a spreading 60 feet tall. Cut the center stem at about 25 feet to have a shorter, fuller tree for easier picking.

CYNTHIA NELSON ) originated in SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL AT SEA BY SHIRLEY SERVING BREADNUT: BREADNUT: Artocarpus camansi

Red Breadnuts 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil (peanut preferred) 1/4 teaspoon each cumin seed and mustard seed 1 Cup finely chopped onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 Cups chopped fresh tomatoes 1 bunch chadon bene (cilantro), chopped finely 1 hot pepper, seeded and chopped finely 1 Cup breadnut seeds, boiled, peeled and chopped 2 Cups cooked chickpeas (chana) 1 Tablespoon garam massala Turmeric and salt to taste 2 Cups water The easiest way to enjoy breadnuts is to buy the Breadnut trees ( In the Caribbean, and especially in Trinidad & In the Caribbean, and especially The breadnut fruit can fool you by its appearance, you by its appearance, The breadnut fruit can fool The Caribbean Chestnut The Caribbean seeds — already taken from the fruit and cleaned — in seeds — already taken from the fruit and cleaned — in the market or from a roadside vendor. Then boil them in salted water for about 40 minutes, cool and peel off both the outer brown shell and the papery inner cover- ing. For something quick and different, peel the boiled seeds, chop, and sauté briefly with butter, garlic and chadon bene (cilantro). Serve over bow-tie pasta. five to eight inches in diameter. Unless picked, the five to eight inches in diameter. Unless picked, the seeds — the breadnuts — will continue to grow until the fruit bursts open for the birds to enjoy. Tobago and Guyana, both the seeds and pulp of the Tobago and Guyana, both In the ripened stage, the breadnut fruit are consumed. or boiled and consumed as seeds are roasted, steamed in size, composition a snack. They are chestnut-like in the green, partially and flavor. The fruit is cooked immature stage as a vegetable. Southeast Asia and are believed to have been brought to the Caribbean along with breadfruit trees by Captain Bligh in 1793. On some islands they are known as chataigne, and are called katahar in Guyana. The fruit itself is a bright green pod usually so closely does it resemble its less bumpy cousin its less bumpy cousin so closely does it resemble white-fleshed seeds the breadfruit. But its large, and flavorful island make the breadnut a unique treat you’ll seldom find delicacy. This is a nutritious in any restaurant. JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN TEL: (784)4571806FAX:456 1364 Y hammocks+more wooden-ware jewelry, rare exoticarts+crafts young streetst.george's 48 years,44withLloyds,andmyclaims AMAHA MA Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent I havebeenintheinsurancebusiness or e-mail:[email protected] just stepsfromthecarenage Iolaire Enterprises(353)28-33927 E-mail: [email protected] PAIE settlement recordcannotbebeat. [email protected] tel: (473)440-2310 opposite Howard’sMarine unique giftsforyourboat, “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood P.O. Box17,Kingstown www.street-iolaire.com Then,iftheclaimisdenied Insurance home +friends or unsatisfactorilysettled, Fax DMStreet R Marine INE DISTRIBUTOR it istoolate. grenada LTD Dear Dear S/Y Amigo Rene Braunmüller which theyallmaketheirliving. to worktogetherandnotdriveawaytheyachtsfrom mooring ownersandtheotherboatboyshavetolearn guard. Isimplysailedaway. time, despitebeingthreatenedwithcallingthecoast- ers doesonemooringhave?Ididnotpaythesecond and demandedanothermooringfee.Howmanyown- — plusacoldbeer.Ipaid,andgavehim his helpwiththelineandEC$20formooringrental to takealineashore. A friendlyboatboyshowedmeamooringandhelped check-in formalitiesforSt.Vincent&theGrenadines. Compass Forums oftheMarchandApril2009issues Dear S/V WindShepherd Ginny andJohnHannon about himandhiswifethepeopleofTrinidad. assistance atacrucialtime.Notenoughcanbesaid his outstandingwork,butonceagain,hedelivered information sheneededtomakeherdecisions. during theordealandstayedwithhertohelp wife, SharonRose,werewithmyfriendatthehospital James ofMembersOnlyTaxiService.Jesseandhis tour guide—butmainlyhergoodfriendJesse could giveheraminutesosheaskdriverand should proceedatthatpoint.Sheaskedthestaffifthey to saytheleast,distraughtandnotquitesurehowshe proceed afterthedeathwasconfirmed.Myfriendwas, patient andhelpful,buttheyneededtoknowhow I heardthatthehospitalstaffwasveryprofessional, there. Themedicalstaffdideverythingpossibletohelp. on hisboat.Hiswife,whoisafriendofmine,was who wasinChaguaramaspassedawaywhileworking that tookplacerecentlyinTrinidad.Recently,acruiser simplify theprocess. Tourism willhelptofigureouthowstreamlineand undue amountofhassle.HopefullytheMinistry but necessaryordeal,andwehavenotexperiencedan regarding CustomsinTrinidad.Itisusuallyapainless to visitDominica( ing, workedforseveralcompaniesdoing network a bachelor’sdegreeandmaster’s inengineer- exactly whathewasdoingandwhy. devices, allthewhileexplainingtoJohn (myJohn) Windows andthedriversweneededfor ourvarious hard drive,andthenspentseveralhours reloading the problem,sentusbacktoboat backupthe a directcable.Johnspentaboutanhour diagnosing nect totheInternet,viaeitherawireless signaloron with acomputer(thesameone)whichwouldnotcon- ers atreasonableprices. sorts ofhardwaresupplieshavingtodowithcomput- screen anddotheworkhimself!Hisshopisfullofall tions —ratherthansuggestingthatheorderthe correct partinhand.Heproceededtogiveusinstruc- that replacingthescreenwaseasy,onceyouhad beginning tolooklikeanEtch-a-Sketch.Johntoldus during acasualconversationaboutourlaptopscreen fixing computerproblems,bothhardwareandsoftware. from BayStreet)whoseownerisanabsoluteWIZARDat on HarbourLaneinPortsmouth(thenextstreetback FFORUM RREADERS' If thisisasystemofextortion,it’scrime.not,the The nextmorningthe“owner”ofmooringcame After thishecamealongsideandaskedforEC$10 Wallilabou again!FurthertolettersintheReaders’ Jesse hasbeengivenmanyaccoladesandawardsfor But thisletterisnotaboutthat,butanevent We havebeenreadingwithinterestallthecomments Here’s another to add to Chris Doyle’s list of reasons Here’s anothertoaddChrisDoyle’slistofreasons John BrunolivedinFloridaformanyyears, obtained A weekorsolater,wewerebackatTownNetwork My husband,John,andIinitiallymetJohnBruno O Compass Compass Compass E R : IcametoWallilabouonApril27thdo A U D , , Readers, M E Compass R S , May 2009). There is a shop , May2009).Thereisashop '

Dear S/V SecondMillennium Melodye Pompa straight scoop. quick, simplefix,andifitisnot,hewillgiveyouthe near Dominica,stoptotalkwithJohn.Itmaybea when hisparentsmovedtoFlorida. Portsmouth, whichheleftatthetenderageofsix pilot’s licenseinhisfreetime.Hehascomebackto design andinstallation,receivedacommercial —Continuedonnextpage again, anobservationmadebymywife. ing andtryingtoprizeachoppingboard offhisfoot.) soaked idiotwashoppingaroundonthe deckscream- course, right.Ittookabouttwonightsbefore thisrum- stars whilehavingapeeoverthestern. Shewas,of of gettingupinthemiddlenight to gazeatthe that thiswasnotoneofmybetterideas,given myhabit boat’s potentialaccesspoints.(Mywife pointedout drawing pinsalloverboardsandplacedtheminmy looked atmyboatwithattitude.PlusIsuper-glued let offapiercingshriekifanybodyontheshoreeven a visittoTrinidad’sRadioShackIboughtsensorthat cent victimonhisyacht! palm treesfilingtheirteethwaitingforthenextinno- of islandsandbayswherethecitizenslurkedin missing dinghies,suspiciouscharacters,andreports carries morelightsthantheaverageairport.) and Tobago.(Imean,it’sonlyabout200feettall repeat ofthepositionoilrigbetweenTrinidad Or somebodyforthehundredthtimeaskeda heading wasasignalto“gitoutyergun”justincase. robbery, attheveryleast.Orapirogueonsame hull loadedwithdrug-andrum-crazedlocalsintenton bump inthenightcouldbeafishingboattouching world oftheAmericancruiser,wherethingsthatgo was introducedtotheveryscaryandxenophobic Safety andSecurityNeton8104. pet wasthatitimperativewelistentothe Caribbean cruisersweregratefullyreceived.Onesnip- many piecesofadviceIreceivedfromseasoned ago. Havingneversailedintheregionbeforethen, Dear Yacht Tchin Jeremy Hobday Easter; itwascertainlyworththetripfromMartinique. multihull classnextyear? ahead ofreputedcruisingmonohulls.Howabouta ish line(butkeepingwelloutofthewayracers) the regatta,Iwasamazedwhenwebeatuptofin- ger thanIhave!Invitedoutforasailwithhimduring lems”. HehasbeensailingintheCaribbeanevenlon- together withmanyusefultipsconcerning“boatprob- ran alwaysbringsmycurrentinformationuptodate Cruising andSailorsGuides)onhis12-metrecatama- for somehotracesandwarmstartstotheevenings’fun. to theregattaorganisersandHeinekenMountGay boat, andIbarelysawherforfourdays.Congratulations footpath overthecliffshasbeenobstructed. Plantation Housearea,nowthatthetime-honoured Margaret Beachalongtherockyforeshoreto making theirwayuncomfortablybackfromPrincess During EasterweekendIsawmorethan80people many cupsofcoffeewerespilledonanchoredyachts. harbour atmorethentenknotsandwonderedhow thrice-daily passage—Ievensawonesteamupthe trail aplumeofdenseblackdieselsmokeontheir speeding taxiboats,andsomeoftheBequiaferries The anchorageisoftenrockyfromthewashof still there,butismarredbyagenerallyunkemptair. streets arenotascleantheycouldbe.Thecharmis looks uncaredfor(withsomefineexceptions)andthe harbour. However,thecentreofPortElizabethnow water isstillclear,andmusicfloatsacrossthe Belmont Walkwayisalwayscleanandpretty;the are notableexamples). (Portsmouth inDominicaandSoufriereSt.Lucia ing averynotableefforttoimprovetheirimage falling behindotherCaribbeanports,whicharemak- week. ButIfoundthetownofPortElizabethisnow of action,especiallyduringtheBequiaEasterRegatta a softdrink.ThatwastraditionalBequia! close harmonyforthepleasureofreceivingabiscuitor your anchorwasdownandsingsweetshantiesin youngsters wouldcomealongsideyouryachtonce days whenasmallrowingboatcontainingfewshy The Frangistillhasthejump-up,butgoneare chess tournamentamongsttheresidentyachtowners. the FrangipaniHotelwasamust,followedoftenby Twenty-five yearsagotheThursdaynightjump-upat of callintheEasternCaribbean,andperhapsitstillis. So ifyourcomputerisactingquirkyandyouare What finallymademeswitchtheradio offwas, I startedhaulingmydinghyhalfwayupthemast.On I quicklybecamesweptupinthisdailysoapoperaof The followingmorningIturnedtheradiodialand My wifeandIarrivedintheCaribbeanseveralyears My thanksagaintotheorganizersforamemorable A visittoChrisDoyle(authoroftheexcellent My crewwasenchantedtofindaplaceonregatta The dinghydockintownisnowverygood;the There arestillmanyworthwhileplaceshere,andlots Admiralty Bay,Bequia,usedtobemyfavouriteport Caribbean Compass Compass , , JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA ferries come in, or head to the ferries come in, or head to Gemstar Readers, and Compass As in PM, there are hiking trails on Mayreau that Local people have, for the most part, been helpful, The waters are gorgeous, as are the beaches — except I’ve met travelers from many places: an Irish couple You accept the weather: almost always gorgeous, The joys of blue skies, cloud patterns, bright stars Dear We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or shoreside address, We do not publish individual consumer complaints or indi- Send your letters to:[email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum, Box 175BQ, Bequia,St. Vincent & the Grenadines The month of March I spent on Mayreau (no banks!) March I spent on Mayreau The month of side of the hill, and there The village is on the other Keep walking down Mayreau has five lovely beaches. left past the huge power plant (five years ago Mayreau left past the huge power plant (five years ago Mayreau was without electricity) over to another lovely beach and bay for snorkeling. could use the attention of a machete or two. From Saltwhistle Bay on the leeward side we walked the length of the windward beach to its end and found a path which took us up and down, through brambles, over some rocks, near the water and past isolated bays, with the view of the Tobago Cays becoming steadily clearer. Finally the long beach on the opposite side of the island from Saline Bay was reached, and we trudged past the power plant, up the hill, stopped at Dennis’ for callalou soup and garlic toast, and then headed back down to Saltwhistle Bay as the sun was setting. It was a good three-hour workout for a land- starved exercise addict! But it could take all day if you sat and listened and walked and swam — you know how to enjoy the world. kind and respectful, but there have been several unso- licited and blatant propositions. I was informed that it was my fault, in that I’m Canadian and in the 1960s and ’70s Canadian women were notorious for coming to the islands looking for black boyfriends. So, if any of you were there then, a big “no thanks” to you! for the garbage and its thoughtless disposal. There seems to be no recycling program and garbage disposal is a very real problem. A bottle recycling/deposit programme would be a start, as would composting of organic refuse and a ban on styrofoam and plastic bags and water bot- tles. Both PM and Mayreau lack adequate landfill space for their own rubbish and certainly don’t want other people’s. The Caribbean is a long way behind North America and Europe in its control of garbage and litter, and needs visitors’ co-operation not to exacerbate their problem. going from island to island on the ferries; an Australian couple with their three young children sailing around the world; two British gentlemen sailing from England to New Zealand, a life-long dream, in a 36-foot yacht; six hard-working Dutchmen who “stay alive” because of their yearly cruises all over our globe. Some people are down for a week or two, others for eight months or more, and I met a French Canadian who has been sailing for 15 years. Most of the visitors to PM and Mayreau like places which are off the beaten track or they wouldn’t be here. especially with the showers that fill the cisterns with rain. Even when there are two days of high winds and the week-long aftermath of murky water and a bench strewn with piles of black sea grass, who cares, really? It’s still divine. and clear moons, long deserted beaches, turquoise waters, reefs and waves, the wind in the palms, sea birds fishing, doves cooing, friendly island dogs who search you out on a hike, and warm and friendly people — all this will remain in my soul forever. Clair Soper Ontario, Canada and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarifica- tion is required. vidual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be with- held from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Hillsborough, some heading to Windward and others to some heading to Windward Hillsborough, vegetables find many more fruits and Tyrell Bay. I did market. I stalls and at the Agri Co-op at colorful street village at the Henviette’s baking in the fell in love with especially her Paradise Beach, far end of beautiful crust. which is dense with a real “special” bread, on the beach, Bay Hotel, right at the idyllic Saltwhistle It is its five traditional stone bungalows. discreet with the frigate with the yachts visiting and picture perfect leads up the hill, at the birds fishing. A very steep road stone church with a view top of which is a gorgeous Cays. from its back of the Tobago six restaurants and bars you have a choice of five or stop, below the café at the and two supermarkets. One fresh bread, fruits and end of the village proper, gets week, but don’t trust the vegetables three times a hungry, there are rotis or posted hours! And if you’re noon. Eileen, a greengrocer a barbecue on Saturday at has started visiting entrepreneur from Union Island, Rastas with her wares. She Mayreau on Fridays at the mornings and announces also visits PM on Saturday shell blow. On Saturday her arrival with a conch a lovely woman sells her mornings near the church Vincent, where almost fruits and vegetables from Saint all the produce is grown. to Saline Bay where the the hill through the village Barracuda , Readers, Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Carriacou I visited from PM — on the school boat PM is also very close to excellent swimming and a PM is a really un-touristy island with many sheep, There are several little shops to the west, and one For those wanting a strenuous hike, walk to the west The first two months of my winter away from snow Although I’m a land traveler, I thought your readers I picked up a copy of your publication in early January He lives on in memory in the hearts of friends and And just to show his appreciation, he chose to His sixth sense for food made it impossible to bring With the highest pedigree of a “pavement special”, he Captain Peanuts began his life as a kitten called Captain Peanuts began his I’m proud to be able to share with you a short story I’m proud to be able to share Aware that she is not one to make idle threats, thatAware that she is not one You see, I had decided that the person who ran this decided that the person who You see, I had with students in their uniforms riding on the roof! I was looking for more vegetables and supplies. Carriacou is a beautiful island, and easy to get around in the shared taxi mini-vans which all start and end in long beach at Petit St. Vincent, a truly out-of-this-world resort, with private cottages and excellent dining. goats and chickens running free. But be prepared for road graders and dump trucks, and fast (up to 50 mph!) and noisy Suzukis, and a truck —reminders of the city you thought you left behind. One wonders what the rush is and why golf carts aren’t the norm. owner cuts lettuce when available from her garden. Gloria generally bakes bread (available about 2:00 in the afternoon) in her shop on the first paved road heading up the hill. Near the docks, the Palm Beach Restaurant has delicious food and a loyal international following. end of the road, through a pasture past tethered cat- tle, and climb a “path” along the ridge. The views are spectacular and it’s peaceful. You’ll come down the steep hill past the lovely Catholic Church where you would be warmly welcomed on Sundays (“We love you, yes, we do”) and treated to lively music, too! were spent in Petite Martinique (PM), a tiny island in the Grenadines with one road along the south coast and two branches up the hills. The 900 people are truly warm and friendly, and the four supermarkets have an excellent selection of very well priced wines and liquor. The bank is open three mornings per week (where money can be exchanged, but not obtained from a bank or credit card). The one beach is really more for the motorboats (fishing and dive support) and boatbuilding and repair. might be interested in some of my observations. and really enjoyed the articles, editorials and letters. I’ve put the San Blas Islands on my list of “to visit”! foes from all over the world, and in the archives of foes from all over the world, and in the archives of foreign newspapers and magazines. He lived a life so unique and adventurous that most cats wouldn’t dare to dream of it. Alex Nebe Yacht Sparrow Dear smother you with wet sloppy kisses and then curl up smother you with wet sloppy kisses and then curl up on top of your book, chart, chest or pillow, depending on what you were doing at the time. I can’t say how many times I have woken up because my neck had gone stiff, only to find Captain Peanuts fast asleep on my pillow, purring loudly. any tasty morsel down the hatch, be it mince, fish or any tasty morsel down the hatch, be it mince, fish or steak. Should the fridge door make a sound, or the fishing reel pull tight, like a flash he was there — meowing and pawing, asking sooooo nicely for a piece of the action. He was so consistent that cooking in the galley became almost unbearable. did not care anything for fellow cats. Instead he had did not care anything for fellow cats. Instead he had an unusual fondness for four-legged friends of the dog variety. On numerous occasions he was found proudly grinning with delight while a terrified pooch cowered up to a wall. Another trick was his ability to balance objects of different shapes and sizes stacked up on his furry head. They would precariously wobble, up to five pieces high, as the boat rolled to and fro. Blackie, rescued from the sugarcane fields of Swaziland Blackie, rescued from the sugarcane his legacy as a boat cat by in Africa. He began writing flu and numerous bloody surviving a nasty spell of cat wild cats, but always encounters with neighbouring He took full advan- had the determination to continue. kept coming back round tage of his multiple lives and with a new lease and look on life every time. of a much loved and admired sailing cat who quietly of a much loved and admired March 2009. passed away on the 20th of was the end of my listening days. And you know some- was the end of my listening a much friendlier place. thing? The Caribbean became Tim Sadler S/Y Nanou Dear net had a voice that reminded me of the appalling that reminded me of net had a voice my daily Flintstones cartoon. It became Wilma in the the theme the net started, to sing habit, just before meet the remember? “Flintstones, song. (You fam-il- They’re the modern stone-age Flintstones. during the at appropriate, to me, times eee…”) Then “yabba- would chime in with a cheery programme I beloved said this particular day my dabba-doo!” On stop listening to that stu- that if I did not shut up and would remove my bits with pid bl____ programme she a blunt knife. — JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationaboutthisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarried ORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformofaCaptainandChef/Hostess. E-mail: [email protected] Tel. StVincent +7844573407Tel. StMaarten+5995510550 or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194BQ,PortElizabeth, email: [email protected] LYING INBEQUIATEL:(784)458-3255 CREW VACANCIES! FFOR SALE GREAT OPPORTUNITYATUS$90,000 operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperate afleetofcatamaransacross CSY 44,WALKOVER,1978 O [email protected] Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines PROVEN WORLDCRUISER New Yanmar100hp R

S A L E

—Continuedonnextpage not there,sowhywastheformtaken frommeinthefirstplace? cer —“ifhewasthere”ifnot,togiveit backtohim.Well,heknewtheofficialwas Customs officertogivetheImmigration element oftheformtoImmigrationoffi- and setsthesceneforvisit.InMarigot, afewweeksago,Iwasdirectedbythe gatekeepers totheircountry,itis attitude thatmakesthelastingimpression at bestbutsometimes,Iamsorrytosay, surlyandunhelpful.Giventhattheyare of theirformsas“Youmustbetired”!Most otherofficialsIhavefoundbusinesslike followed byanofferforuseoftheirdock overnight andthentakingoverthefillingin ence wheretheopeningwordofofficials hasbeen“welcome”,saidwithasmileand boat, andthenfornousefulpurpose.Bermudaremainstheonlyplaceinmyexperi- somehow “overlooked”clearanceelsewhere. from yourpreviousport,andsoyoucaneasilystartanewpapertrailifhave (and alsonowPortsmouth,Dominica)youwillnotbeaskedforclearancepapers Most yachtskippershavealsoworkedoutthatifyouaregoingontoaFrenchisland popular: “Juststopwhereyouwantandputacourtesyflagupiffeellike it.” none of Carriacou forCarnival,tripstoSt.LuciafromMartiniquegasduringthestrike — produce comingintoLesSaintes,boatloadsofvisitorsgoingfromUnionIsland to disregards others,too! amongst othershavelongappreciatedthatifsomeonefloutsonelawheprobably quate anchorlightandperhapsevenwithoutanythirdpartyinsurance?Thepolice rest oftheentryprocedureeither?Maybetheyaresameboatswithoutanade- did notdisplaycourtesyflags.Coulditjustbethatsomeofthemfollow the appeared, thewaterboatsummonedandbymid-daytheyhadsailedonsouth. Princess MargaretBeachatdusk.ByfirstthingnextmorningtheSVGflagshad towards townalthoughtheirdogsweretakento“exercise”(nastyhabit)onbeautiful tesy flagsanchoredmid-afternoonnexttomyboat.Wenoticedtheydidnotgoashore Typically, whileatanchorinBequiathisyear,apairofyachtsflyingSt.Luciacour- office andfillinginlengthyforms. intelligence. Virtuallynothingusefulcomesfromyachtingtouristsliningupinan of smugglers,drug-runners,illegalimmigrants,etcetera,havecomefromtip-offsor form filling?CustomsstaffinEuropeindicatethatmostsuccessfulapprehensions anyone? Howmanywrongdoershaveeverbeendetectedordeterredbythiskindof ter orjustleftinabox—howdoesthathelpCustomsofficerservehiscountry not laterbetranscribedtoacomputerorinsertedinsomeprehistoric-lookingregis- captain whoadmits,furtherdownintheform,thathehasastowaway! going tosaytheyhavesuchitems,whetherdoornot?Maybeonlythesame handle thatby spare roomforanythingnon-essential.Sowhataboutdrugs?Mostentry/exitforms a countryforlandingandresale,anactivitycruiserswhoseboatsrarelyhave does NOTmakesmuggling,inthesenseofbringingduty-freeorlower-taxitemsinto as youmovethroughtheislandstowardsTrinidadandthenVenezuela.Butthat wash). Somemayagreethatmostpricesforfoodandothervitalitemsslowlyreduce where inKmartgoodginorrumisstillcheaperthananequivalentvolumeofmouth- costs muchthesamewhereveryoubuyit(withpossibleexceptionofSt.Thomas taxes werepaid.Thesedaysabottleofspirits,andmostothermoreessentialitems, Customs mighthavehadafunctioninthisregard:tocheckthatimportdutiesand goods weremovedbetweenislandsmostlyaboardinter-islandsloopsandschooners, contraband. FortyyearsagointheCaribbeanwhen,Iremember,rumandallother maybe, theirvisitors.Theychasedsmugglerswithvariedsuccessandhunteddown tion service,taskedtoensureallappropriatetaxeswerepaidbytheircitizensand, a taxsystemestablishedCustomsdepartmentand,later,exciseorrevenuecollec- Customs andImmigrationpeople. other thantofrustratethevisitingyachtsmanandprovideagoodincomefor merely servestoperpetuatethepresentnonsensewhichhasnoapparentpurpose researched ifitcannotbeusedforcheckingout,oryoustillhavetoseeImmigration), however elegant,easytouseandwell-considered(andIamnotsurethatitiswell- for over50years. as usefulas)IndianRailwayswherereputedlytheyholdrecordsofalljourneysmade foot-high pilesofcompletedformstogainaccess.Thesceneisreminiscent(and Georgetown, Bahamas,whereIhadtoworkmywayintotheofficepastfour- level withboxedcopiesofpastclearanceforms,afeatureIhadalsocomeacrossin notice, lookingtowardstheTV,wasthatrearofficewalllinedtoten-foot had quiteunintentionallymissedoutansweringmanyofthequestions.WhatIdid moment inatestmatch,Ionlylaternoticed(buttheCustomsofficerdidnot)that pass scrutiny.RecentlyintheRodneyBayofficeIwassodivertedbyanexciting decide whichonesreallyneedananswerandsufficientto once again,Iworkmywaythroughthemanyinconsequentialquestionsandtryto a/c, withtheTVshowingtestmatchcricket)Ifinditdifficulttoavoidgigglingas, Croft) scarcelyabletoprovidetheminimaldeskspace(butsometimeswellchilledby unless hugelychanged! — thecontentdoesnotchange.Theprocessinallitsludicrousglorywillremain to dothesamethingelectronicallyisliketranslatingwordsfromLatinEnglish origin. Withaprocessasimmutableanancientreligiousrite,devisingsystem the perpetuationofanoften-farcicalbureaucraticprocedureseeminglyDickensian Clearing inandoutascurrentlypractised(bythoseyachtskippersthatbother)is notice andcarryoutthemajorreviewof on yachtclearanceprocedures.IhopethevariousCaribbeanauthoritieswilltake Dear (but often Only intheDominicanRepublicandPortugalhaveofficialsactuallyboardedmy And what about the pirogues which zip from island to island? Fresh Dominican And whataboutthepirogueswhichzipfromislandtoisland?FreshDominican Incidentally, about20percentoftheboatsanchoredinRodneyBayearlyMarch Am Itheonlyonetonoticethatasignificantminoritydoesnotclearinandout? Repeatedly answeringawelterofquestionsaboutone’sboat,whichmayor Way back(1924intheUKandRomanswellbeforethat),mostcountrieswith Inventing andintroducinganelectronicform-fillingprocesssuchaseSeaClear, As Isitdowninyetanother“crampedlittledustyoffice”(toquoteLarryJeram It isarelieftoreadinrecentlettersthat The oft-quotedprocessofunknownlegality“yellowflaggingit”downtheislands Compass

them areeverseenlininguptoclearin/outatCustomsandImmigration.

without theuseofaQflag!)appearsalsotohavebecomeincreasingly

, asking ifyouhaveanyillegaldrugs.Butwhointheirrightmindis the Month Letter of Compass

whole processthatisnowoverdue. isopeningupawiderdiscussion JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

€ € € € € € € € € $119,000 41’ 1985 C & C Sloop, Custom Racer/Cruiser, excellent condition St Martin 129 000 PRIVILEGE 12 M - 1994 2 * 30 HP Volvo - Good Condition Sail Power MONOHULL CATAMARANS [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 € www.stthomasyachts.com Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Pacific 639 000 $65,000 Attractive Price - EC VAT Paid AMEL 54 - 2005 - Perfect Condition ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. Amel 54 2007 Amel Super Maramu 2001 Alubat Ovni 435 2006 Oceanis 411 1998 (Superb) Lagoon 440 2007 Lagoon 380 2004 Belize 43 2002 Athena 38 1996 Martinique Guadeloupe 99 000 320 000 Guadeloupe St Martin 269 000 699 000 Caribbean St Martin St Martin 390 000 Martinique 165 000 200 000 140 000 26’ Whale Boat Navy Capts gig, Perkins, 4109 29’ Phoenix SF, Twin Volvos, trim tabs, outriggers 32’ 1996 Carver 325 Twin Crusaders, great condition 36’1980 Litton Trawler, Yanmar diesels, Gen Set $39,000 42’ 1983 Present Sundeck My AP, Sundeck $64,500 $69,000 $40,000 $85,500 35’ 1977 Pearson Sloop, 2003 yanmar, new awl gripped topsides $44,000 45’ 1983 Beneteau First 456, AP, Max Prop, rebuilt Perkins 45’ 1975 Durbeck D-46 World Cruiser, Ketch, Hard top Bimini 49’ 1979 Transpacific Ketch, Bluewater, 3 strms, loaded $180,000 $94,900 $89,000 36’ 1989 Outer Reef Trawler, 36’ 1989 Outer Reef Trawler, Ex longliner, fish or family boat Ex longliner, fish or family boat Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale

Simon Julien Yacht Calisto spend an average of Compass, is wanted, and the Tourism Ministers of most

any Eastern Caribbean island, which would remain valid for say,

how ridiculous and unwelcoming how ridiculous and unwelcoming Government officers could see for Government officers could see for the yacht entry/exit procedures can be the yacht entry/exit procedures first check-in to

Continued from previous page Continued from I would suggest that 99.99 percent of cruisers are not smugglers and are not clan- I would suggest that 99.99 percent of cruisers are not Few cruisers, I suspect, have a problem with fees as such — that is not the cause — that is not the cause Few cruisers, I suspect, have a problem with fees as such And what about charterers, who bring a significant income to the islands? Usually who bring a significant income to the islands? Usually And what about charterers, And why is overtime payable? If you clear in or out of Union Island, for example, If you clear in or out of Union Island, for example, And why is overtime payable? Trinidad & Tobago officials long ago established their reputation as being unfriend- their reputation as officials long ago established Trinidad & Tobago One would hope the solution would include a cruising permit issued electronically An easy system such as outlined above would release many officers from menial How to improve things? A regional review is quite clearly essential. The review Outbound clearance is just as loopy as inbound, and often demands that you Outbound clearance is just as loopy as inbound, and Even after negotiating the entry procedure you will need to leave eventually; that Even after negotiating the entry procedure you will need themselves, during an actual inter-island cruise, themselves, during an actual inter-island destinely trying to immigrate to an island of their choice. We are paying visitors who destinely trying to immigrate to an island of their choice. in a good hotel: polite and deserve to be given a reception similar to when arriving welcoming. That is, if our presence of hassle or delay. Such fees as there are — overtime apart — are mostly reason- of hassle or delay. Such fees as there are — overtime with loads of cash to linger able, with the possible exception of Mustique (why part to more than US$120, or in a rolly anchorage?), the DR where fees have escalated license for a 35-foot boat is the Bahamas where US$300 for a seasonal cruising of St. Martin have joined the over the top for a short transit. And now both sides big-fees bandwagon. they are on a tight schedule. Does it make sense to keep the charter guests on board Does it make sense to keep the charter guests on board they are on a tight schedule. St. (yes, I lined up for at least that time in Marigot, for sometimes up to two hours places can be the same) while the skipper goes to clear Martin, last March, and other these people to get ashore and spend money? Charterers in? Why make it difficult for the their return to base and a return flight to catch are with a deposit to reclaim on a Caribbean island however delightful — why put them least likely to abscond onto procedures? Any more than the long-term cruisers who through lengthy Immigration only, home for residence are most unlikely to abandon their floating, and sometimes going to be unnoticed and ashore. Those exceptionally rare few who do are hardly are likely to want to do so legally! at the airport on a weekend where staff are already awaiting aircraft — guess what? where staff are already awaiting aircraft — guess what? at the airport on a weekend to cough up an overtime payment. You as a cruiser will be required US$2,200 per boat each month, most of which goes directly back into the economy most of which goes directly back into the economy US$2,200 per boat each month, by about Barbados, where you are usually obliged at grass-roots level. And what the your boat alongside a huge Yokohama fender in most Customs officers to bring clamber up a ladderless wall while leaving your boat cruise ship harbour and then of swell? Then there is Nevis, where a huge number to the mercy of the ever-present have been provided but the dinghy dock is dangerously (ugly, some say) moorings is that there is a choice of islands to visit; those that inadequate. The simple message make it easy get my vote. ly to cruisers. They have enhanced their position by placing limitations on anchoring position by placing limitations They have enhanced their ly to cruisers. you arrived overtime simply because of departure, and charging options and times is charged. In at a time when overtime border, but not their dock, at their country’s in some seem to be involved in Scarborough and Charlottesville Tobago, officials and unpleas- the two areas difficult that makes transiting between kind of turf war when their which relies on tourism, too, for the rest of Tobago ant. Unfortunate, discouraging to that the officials are so a record low occupancy rate, hotels are at a study published in the cruisers who, according to — on office work to apprehend or discourage wrongdoers (drug traffickers or whatever), make sure taxes are paid, etcetera. Any spare manpower, still funded as now, could be diverted towards establishing a degree of harbour management now so obviously missing. Overseeing safe and licensed moorings in appropriate places, managing/ procuring resources such as dinghy docks, and becoming goodwill ambassadors for their countries would encourage (and thereby improve income from) yachting visitors. Common international agreement could also perhaps be reached on mandatory third-party insurance for boats and local rules devised and enforced for safety issues such as use of jetskis, anchor lights, channel fairways, speed limits, etcetera. must be by senior government officials who are above the fiefdoms and self-interest that clearly exist within the Customs service. Charter companies could help by using their under-used (at this difficult time) assets to offer invitations to a selection of government officers so these people can see for themselves, during an actual inter- island cruise, just how ridiculous, unwelcoming, annoying and useless the entry/ exit procedures can be. three or six months in all islands, with boat and personal data held on a central database. A seasonal fee could be matched to the average level paid now and shared among countries visited. Ultimately a WiFi network in all clearance ports, funded by an enhanced fee if necessary, would enable checking in and out, and updating if needed, to be carried out remotely or in an office following first permit issue. And anyone who does not know what a simple cruiser-friendly system is, need look no further than Martinique. declare your intention well in advance by filling in yet more forms (although usually declare your intention well in advance by filling in yet ticked) and see the Customs the same ones, with “departure” rather than “arrival” issue as office opening times again. As well as wasting time, the “advance” bit is an fail to take account of short- can seriously constrain the options for leaving and notice decisions (to go or stay) necessarily made on receipt of weather updates. And why see the Customs when leaving? Did we buy too much/not enough? Martinique and Dominica have both worked it out that simultaneous check in/out causes the least hassle and pleases the customer. Why not other islands? is provided you were not trying to have spare parts shipped in for your boat. Then is provided you were not trying to have spare parts shipped they can to delay you getting Customs appear to want to erect as many hurdles as awkward in Chaguaramas your stores. They are particularly accomplished in being and Port of Spain, but there are many imitators. islands proclaim that it is. JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 are havingitsogood. way ofinformingthelisteneraself-conferred“islandveteran”status. bitching abouttheCaribbean“notbeingasgooditwasbefore”isjustasideways somehow “itwascoolthenbutitsucksnow.” to bealwayssomewhiningabouthowit’sall“goneandover”intheWestIndies— and noempathyforthesecriticsthosethatbemoantheCaribbean.Thereseems how fromthatwonderfulyearinthepast. — oh,pickayear,anyandhowithasinevitablychangedfortheworsesome- bad itisintheCaribbeanandmoresignificantly,howmuchhaschangedsince — actuallyquiteoftenhaveheardvariousformsofwhingeingabouthowtoughor the dinghydocksupanddownthesesun-drenchedislesofblestwesometimes their liveshereintheseislandsoftheEasternCaribbean. ours andlotsoffun.Bothatseaashoreourganghavebeenhavingthetimes Leeward Isles—verygoodseamanshipdrillforthecrewofasail-trainingshiplike anchoring our300-tonsquare-riggerallaroundtheGrenadinesandWindward Grenada. AfterapleasantstayinSt.George’swesetoffforsailing,tackingand streets andcrazyparadessteelbands,followedbyaniceday-saildownto THE Who hasn’tbeenthere?Butifthatnegativefeelingregardingthesesuperbislands Or maybeit’sjustthatsomefolksdon’tknowhowgoodtheyhaveitwhen Maybe one’sfantasyfellapartwhenhelearnedthatlifeisworkhere,too.Ormaybe After hearingtalklikethisovermanyyearsIhavetosaythatlittlesympathy From timetotime,however,alongthebeaches,inwaterfronthauntsandat In HillsboroughwehadacoupleofdaysCarnivalwithplentydancinginthe byDanielMoreland tthe Islands LLoving Sailing The Yacht ClubBequia,islookingforanexperiencedMaintenance Technician Salary commensuratewithexperience. including Saturdaysandholidays. Applicants mustbepreparedtoworkflexiblehours Fiber GlassRepairworkbeneficial. Boat ElectricalandElectronics,Refrigeration. Marine DieselEngines,Outboard e-mail: [email protected] Fax:784-458-3981 o h Maintenance Technician to lookafterallaspectsofboatrepairandmaintenance. v e The applicantmustbeaCARICOMNational and haveexperienceinthefollowingfields:

Bequia, St.Vincent &theGrenadines i

Wanted age oftheAtlanticBasin. Brazil andSenegal,WestAfrica,whileonaone-yearvoy- barque Mail: Manager, Yacht ClubBequia n I s g Picton Castle Applications to: PO Box194BQ l

S a recently sailedintoCarriacoufrom a n i d l s i n WHAT’S ONMYMIND g

For moreinformationvisitwww.picton-castle.com. Maverick the world. Castle end ofournextcircumnavigation(2010-2011)youwillfindthecrew plenty cool,man.Thesearethe“goodolddays”righthere,now.Towards empty? Hey,noplaceisperfectbutitain’toverintheislands,farfrom—dey and Icanthinkofnobetterplacetocruise.Istheglass90percentfullorten ly andonoffsince“thegoodolddays”,IknowtheCaribbeanisstilljustgreat deal ofsailingallaroundtheglobeandhavingbeeninCaribbeansteadi- windlass, sailingtothenextislandanddoingitallagain,noway.Butafteragreat too muchJackIronandgettingupintheearlymorningheavingonanchor Lesser Antilles,sailingCarriacousloopsbackandforthfromGrenada,drinkingway monkey intheriggingofbrigantinesandschoonersreachingupdown with afullheadofhair,bellyyoucouldlightmatchon,runningaroundlike changed, too!Iain’twhatusedtobe!I’mnotaleanandwiry18-year-oldanymore changed too;sobeit. poverty isnotanythingIwouldwanttoseemoreof.Everyoneofourhometownshas that oldfolksycharmofyorefullyintact.However,“charm”atthepricecrushing traditional island-builtschoonerstradingandsmugglingbackforthwithall things havechanged—itwouldbegreatiftheseWestIndieswerestillinhabitedby just beequal. both visitorsandeachotherasequals,whichistheonlyrealwaybetakenone, Independence hasservedtheislandswell.Islandersgenerallyandgraciouslytreat more prosperousandwell-travelledwithsophisticatedworldexperiencesviews. the colonialdays,islandershaveaccesstobettereducationtodayandaregenerally tions arebetter,shippingandtransportbetter.Beingtrulyinaperiodwellpast mechanics arebetter,medicalresourcessuppliescommunica- maybe evenjustalittlebitbetterthanbeforeinmanyways.Provisioningisbetter, However, tomywayofthinkingtheseislandsarenotonlyasawesomeeverbut fine anytimeofyear. Snorkelling, diving,fishingandswimmingarenottooshabbyeither,therumis architecture, gorgeouslandscapes,lovelywelcomingfolksashore,andonon. great food,jump-ups,fascinatingandverysignificanthistoryart,enchanting sunsets, excellentweathersomuchofthetime,superbmusic,beaches,coldbeer, in anyoceanwithgreatsailingreaches,stunningblueskiesfollowedbydazzling in theworld),someofbestandmostreliabletradewindstobefoundanywhere today theseverysameislandsstillboastfantasticanchorages(someofthebest the VirginIslandsandGrenadines.Wehadsomegoodtimes,letmetellyou.Still almost 40yearsagosailinginwindjammersandcharterboatsamongbetween qualify myselfandpointoutthatmysailingseafaringcareerbeganhereasakid ful partoftheworldandmaketrulygreatmemoriesstartingnow. take alittlepeekatyourself,too,andstarttoreallyenjoyembracethiswonder- it —andnothinggetstowindwardlikea747. well, youdon’thavetosailallthatwayback.Buyaticket,canprobablyafford take manyawhiningsunburnedsailorwithit.Andifyoudidn’tflybutsailedhere, up totherailyourvessel. Chicago, LondonorToronto. Perhaps thesuffererwillfindasympatheticaudienceforthesecomplaintsbackin do getonbackhomeassoonpossibleandcomplainabouttheislandsthere. is trulyhowonefromsomenorthernnationhascometofeel,well,sobeit,butthen Tel: +596(0)5967480Fax: 596 [email protected] Daniel Moreland,formercrewofthebrigantine Hey, whatthehell,talkaboutchangeandnotalwaysforbetter,Ihave Sure, itwouldbeniceifdevelopmentwereabitlessonsomeislands.Andsure, I wouldnotwanttodenyanyonetheirwell-deservedandcherishednostalgia. In myview,theEasternCaribbeanislandsarejustassweetever.Ineedto Or, andthisIrecommend,youcouldtakeanotherlookattheislands.Andmaybe That planethatbroughtsuchdissatisfiedsoulsherealsofliesbacknorthandcan Hey shipmate,thatgangwaygoesdowntothequayandtowardsataxiaswell Maybe. sailing andlimin’lovingbeingintheseveryislands,someofthebest backinthe“goodolddays”,isnowMasterofbarque Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin Romance Antifouling Epoxy Batteries Marine Paints Plumbing Zinc Anodes IN MARTINIQUE MAINTENANCE BOAT FOR SPECIALIST THE andBrixhamtrawler Le Marin Picton Castle Picton . JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

Book it now: Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 [email protected] [email protected] THIS COULD BE Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 (473) Tel: Engineering, fabrication and YOUR MARKET PLACE AD welding. Fabrication and repair of Grenada Marine • Spice Island Marine Grenada Marine • Spice TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. or contact your local island agent S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True [email protected] SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS SAILMAKING, continued on next page t n Club is the e m

p i O u q C E

Dominica Yacht t h and your center for: & c

a Dominica Marine Center Y ous parlons Français www.dominicamarinecenter.com E

[email protected] home of the - Tel: 767-448-2705 Fax: 767-448-7701 Dockmaster Tel: 767-275-2851 VHF: 16 The UNIQUE IN DOMINICA Roseau & Portsmouth

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L g Land and houses for sale n complete diving, i Hablamos Español cleats, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses,cleats, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, A h For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at Alexander or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & also handle Villa We s e-mail: [email protected] i sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks,sockets, navigation, charts, guides, Fishing - Diving - Yacht Equipment FFishing - Diving - Yacht Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) Tel: WALLACE & CO WWALLACE Phone: 784 458 3360 [email protected] Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights, Electronics, marine electronics, 12 Property Management on Carriacou Property • Yacht Mooring Anchorage • Grocery Store & Provisioning • Bakery (Sukie’s Bread Company) • Water at dock • Fuel (Unleaded / Diesel) • Ice • Yacht Chandlery agents - Budget Marine /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Marine • LP Gas (propane) refills • Showers & Toilets (WC) • Garbage Disposal • Security • Telephone & Fax • Mobile Phone Rental / SIM Top Up • Laundry WiFi Internet • Beach Bar • Nearby Restaurants • Taxi & Tour Operators • Whale Watching & Sport Fishing • Light Engine and Boat Repair • Customs / Immigration • Clearance Information The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in BEQUIA The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE

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t Y oo VHF CH68 oooo ODUC surf.co y Phone (784) 458-3458 WWWWW PL R W RDWOO lunch and dinner E We serve breakfast, nn A

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A ii Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic rr Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean K Admiralty Bay, Bequia Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) MARINE PLYM EU-VAT (14%) importation (14%) EU-VAT aa Bequia, St. Vincent Be www.midatlanticyachtservices.com A Providing all vital servicesProviding to MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC C Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 E caribwoods@vinc Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 [email protected] & Shoreline Mini-Market YACHT SERVICES YACHT C INISHING P A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 +351 TEL +351 292 391616 FAX TEAKT Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Chandlery, Pilots, RiggingIncl. PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR PORTHOLE RESTAURANT

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JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 Voiles Assistance Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard tel/fax: (596)596748832 # Saturday byappointment O N S Caribbean CompassMarketPlace U Didier andMaria M A Cell: O696292812 Cell: B L E S W I N D C A R T E P D F LEMARIN,MARTINIQUE•GRENADA www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Phone: +(596)596748033Cell:(596)696276605 Shipchandler, Artimer Le Marin,Martinique G G G N R + (599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 I I Tel: (0)596714161Fax:77 E-mail: [email protected] F L [email protected] A Packages Pick–upcall: G S Int. 001-3057042314 W I N D C A St. St. Maarten/ Martin, collect COURIER SERVICES CIRExpress R T and deliver door todoor E P D F R D N A H C H E P S L I continuedonnextpage JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 Year round income. Year 3 large cabins, each with private bathroom, and well looked after ready to go. Built 1996. Price US$135.000. Located in Grenada. Call (473) 443-3424 guaranteed by seller. DON’T or email [email protected] LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT Call Daniela in Grenada (473) 443 3424 Grenada-Grenadines one cabin and separate washroom for guests. washroom one cabin and separate Yacht must be in good conditions with at least must Yacht Private crewed yachts Two persons crew required. persons crew required. Two Catamaran Dean 400 for sale Catamaran If interested: yearly charter income of US$30.000 - 40.000 (ask for Bernhard) or Email [email protected]. wanted for charters www.caribbean-sun.com www.karibikreisen.com www.caribbean-sun.com ! Compass St Lucia, Grenada S St Thomas, St Maarten, St www.IslandWaterWorld.com [email protected] T Marine Distributors P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299 , a type of wrasse with a long from the Bahamas to the O “Bequia took to the boat very well and swimming Would you like to see your favorite photo of your boat, extra well. She’s very energetic and a sweetheart who lets us know if anyone is near the boat. Like most dogs, she is fascinated by dolphins and whales. She has sailed the islands from Grenada to the Bahamas, stopping along the way at the few ports where dogs are let ashore.” your sailing buddies or yourself in ‘Sailors’ Shots’? E-mail high-resolution jpegs to [email protected] with “sailors’ shots” in the subject line. Include a brief description identifying the boat, the people and where and when your shot was taken — then watch out for it in a future issue of H S

Hogfish Maximus ’ Lachnolaimus maximus S reports: The Morejohn family — Chris, wife Rachel

O is named after — with foredeck dog — was photographed while I was sitting in our din- — with foredeck dog — was photographed while I was ghy, tied up to S/V Aquarelle L We are on-line: www.caribbeancompass.com I Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean

Hogfish Maximus Rachel says, “We acquired Bequia, the self-tacking wonder dog, four years ago in Bequia with the help of Rachel says, “We acquired Bequia, the self-tacking wonder Hogfish Maximus Does your dog do foredeck? This one does! Evelyn Drew of snout. Designed and built by Chris, it’s a 38-foot engineless, sharpie-type shoal-draft snout. Designed and built by Chris, it’s a 38-foot sloop. With centerboard up, it only draws 27 inches! was very much involved with animal welfare in Bequia the late Mariann Palmborg of Why Knot fame. Mariann and chose Bequia for us out of a five- or six-week-old litter of pot hounds. She thought Bequia was a kind, well-mannered pup. an anchored boat near the start of the second day’s race in this year’s Bequia Easter Regatta. They came an anchored boat near the start of the second day’s dog, aptly named Bequia, staring down at me! Chris alarmingly close and I found myself looking up at the yelled, “Don’t worry, I haven’t hit a boat yet!” Windward Islands. Another daughter, Kalessin, 19, is now tackling the world on her Windward Islands. Another daughter, Kalessin, 19, is teen and sailed from California own. Chris has been on the water since he was a Bahamas with his parents’ boat. through the Panama Canal and up to Florida and the

and daughter Lilly — recently sailed SSAILORS’ SHOTS JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 E-mail [email protected] Tel (246)258-1052/230-3515 US$85,000, OBOBarbados, Gen. Set,MANYextras. 2x671 DetroitDieselEngines 42' POSTSPORTSFISH E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (473)457-4144 Ready togoUS$22,000 Auto/wind pilot,GPS,VHF. Engine 2006SoleMini32 PUMA 321978 phone +596696907429. e-mail [email protected] more infoandpicturesplease for afastsale.LyingStLucia.For US$199,000 toUS$169,000ONO cruiser. Pricereducedfrom excellent liveaboardand engine, verywellequipped, KETCH URGENT SALE-VENUS46,1984 www.crackajacksailing.net Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD ing.com Tel(758)4528531 E-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yacht- 1981 CT54US195.000 90.000 Euros 1992 Dehler37CWS, 1987 Irwin44US105.000 460.000 Euros 2000 Catana471,4cabin, duty paid US 39.000,St.Lucia 1981 CapeDory30, 2 setsracingsails,US57.000 1975 GermanFrers39ft, DETSR OAIN P# DETSR OAIN P# DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER aiba od Bqi MP 42 Bequia MP Martinique 41 Guadeloupe MP Caribbean Woods Trinidad 9 Caribbean PropellersLtd. 41 Martinique Caribbean MarineElectrical 37 Martinique Carene Shop UnionIsland 5 Caraibe Yachts MP Caraibe Greement 30 Tortola 2 SintMaarten MP Caraibe Greement Grenada SintMaarten Captain Gourmet Martinique 40 Camper &Nicholsons Bequia BVI YachtSales Budget Marine MP Trinidad Budget Marine MP Bichik Services Bequia Marina 19 27 Antigua Bay IslandYachts Trinidad Barrows Sails&Canvas St.Vincent Venezuela Barefoot YachtCharters 39 Bahia RedondaMarina B &CFuelDock 26 MP Art &Design St.Thomas Aquanauts Grenada Martinique American YachtHarbor UK Admiral YachtInsurance A&C YachtBrokers MP BOATS FORSALE fiberglass, gc, new fiberglass, gc,new Mustsell, Petite Martinique 31 Trinidad MP details orcall(473)536-2319 apolloduck.net/105408 forfull very wellequipped,seehttp:// MAXIM 38CATAMARAN2001 [email protected] Rodney Bay,StLucia–E-mail more worktodo,US$6000,lying condition, partrestorationbutbit 3GM engine,sailsinreasonable outer hullandfullkeel,Yanmar hogany andoakwithGRP CLASSIC, 37’ ‘SOFIA’ FRENCHBUILTCORNOU US $65,000Tel:(784)5329886 Aluminium FastLoadTrailer. rods andgear.Tripleaxle board storageforfishing well, fishboxes.Ampleon rigging station,45gllivebait gls fuel,head,outriggers tion, 40glsfreshwater,300 in excellentworkingcondi- Twin 250YahamaOutboards GRADY WHITEBIMINI306T-TOP email [email protected] Trinidad at8686344346,or Call DonatPowerBoatsin loads ofinventory-$6,600. places butcompletewith sloop, 32ft,somewhatrustyin ed, noengine-$7,8003.Steel Fiberglass sloop,31ft,repaint- but complete-$9,400US2. 1. DufourApege,30ft,dirty OWED TOBOATYARD FOR SALETORECOVERRENT E-Mail [email protected] Tel: (473)457-4144 aboard US$30,000.ONO Fully equipped,greatlive HARRIS 40FTTRIMARAN sailing boat, ma- sadWtrWrd itMatn 48 30 SintMaarten UK21/38 28 23 37 15 Bequia 18 Island WaterWorld Guadeloupe Grenada Iolaire Enterprises Grenada Grenada GRPro-Clean Martinique St.Kitts Grenadines Sails 26 MP Grenada Tourism MP Grenada Marine Fred Marine Fortress Marine Bequia USA Food Fair MP 3 23 Fernando's Hideaway Electropics Trinidad Barbados Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Grenada Tortola MP Doyle's Guides 25 29 MP Doyle OffshoreSails 25 MP Doyle OffshoreSails Carriacou MP Down IslandRealEstate St.Lucia 20 Curaçao Dopco Travel Dominica USA Martinique Dominica MarineCenter Martinique Dockwise YachtTransport Discovery Marigot MP Curaçao Marine Cooper Marine Carriacou Clipper Ship Carriacou SilverDiving ,

[email protected] by, Tel:(784)491-5810 Interested partiescancontact Extras toomanytolist. arranged viewingonrequest. condition fulldetailsand for fishingSVGwaters.Pristine Purpose rebuilt\refit\registered FISHING VESSEL [email protected] (784) 5288130(m)E-mail: Tel: (784)4512453(w) friendshipbayvillas.com/sula View picturesatwww. Island CutSt.Vincent. be inspectedatYoung SULA, 1989 50FTBENETEAU,SY [email protected] 8130 (m)E-mail:ballantyne_ Tel: (784)4512453(w),528 for QuickSale) Marina St.Vincent(Priced inspected atOttleyHall ALEXANDRA 1992 44FTIRWINSY Tel (268)728-2807 [email protected], US$20,000 oboE-mail boat, sadlyforsale Grenada. Beautifulcruising ultrasounded. Locatedin Recently sandblastedand gear andsomesparesails. age butwithallcruising with somecosmeticdam- Steel hull,Dismastedand SPARKMAN &STEPHENS43. Tel: 584249589879/58412946468 [email protected] Cruz, Venz.50.000EurosE-mail painting 2005.LyingPuertoLa gen. radar,hull&bottom Yamaha, solarpanels,wind 2x outboards2hp&25hp trampoline 2006,Dinghyw/ VHF, toilet,unsinkable.New log, autopilot,depth,speed, 12m, frig,GPS,generator, LOUISIANE FOUNTAINE PAJOT1984 5cabins,Yachtcan ADVERTISERS INDEX Yachtcanbe Trinidad 24 CLASSIFIEDS E-mail:

[email protected] Tel: 787-366-3536orEmail: at www.vrbo.com#106617 also Available.Seephotos $1,100.00 month.BoatSlips Term Rates.Starting@ Apartments. Short&Long Studios and1Bedroom Sapphire VillageSt.Thomas Tel: 787-366-3536 E-mail: [email protected] Apartments alsoavailable. $1,200.00 monthly.Adjacent Term Rentals65ftMax. Convenient. Long&Short St. Thomas Sapphire ResortMarina- [email protected] after 6pm.E-mail owner. Call(784)4560866 Serious buyersonly.Saleby Point, HouseandLand. Bequia bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS [email protected] Trinidad (868)730-4036E-mail Volvo parts.CallLawrencein condition. Newandused turbo-charger. Goodworking 60hp or20hp;Perkins75hpw/ ENGINES FORSALE e-mail: [email protected]. Trinidad. Cell:868-650-1914or 36HP YANMAROUTBOARDDIESE e-mail: [email protected] ask fordetails7584528531 upgrade) 4000USo.b.o (has beenchangedfor spreaders, lights,winches deck stepped,boom, Selden Rig $13 KUSD,Tel:(473)440-7525 05, lyinginGrenada w/8H.P. YanmarI.B.,riggedin WEEKENDER '77F.G. GREAT LITTLE25' [email protected] (58) 416-3824187E-mail deliveries. TelCrisRobinson trical problemsandyacht INSURANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ. [email protected] (784) 457-3600E-mail: Jill foranappointment.Tel Yacht visitsaccepted.Contact JSM BeautySalon,Villaand UNISEX HAIRSERVICE BEQUIA -PROFESSIONAL PROPERTY FORSALE e evcs atnqe 14 11 21 MP Martinique St.Maarten Caribbean MP Bequia 47 6 7 Simpson BayMarina 34 Sea ShellsApartments Trinidad Sea Services MP St.Lucia Curaçao 8 Savon DeMer Aruba Santa BarbaraResorts Rodney BayMarina PSV Bequia Renaissance Marina Tortola Power Boats 35 Porthole Restaurant 39 12 Petit St.Vincent 30 MP Perkins Engines Dominican 17 Grenada Northern LightsGenerators 38 Tortola MP Navimca Venezuela Bequia Trinidad St.Vincent Mid AtlanticYachtServices Grenada McIntyre Bros.Ltd 39 Trinidad Marina Zar-Par Marc OneMarine 13 St.Croix 16 Lulley's Tackle Le PhareBleu KP Marine MP St.Lucia KNJ Mariner SintMaarten Jones Maritime Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorld MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib- , LowerBay,Bells SERVICES RENTALS , Safe-Private- for VINDÖ 35, for VINDÖ35, elec- Volvo L, L,

Azores MP Tel: (473)439-2049 [email protected] Grenada. PleaseemailCVto established companyin looking forthestabilityofan cruiser orindependenttech with workpermit.Idealfor refrigeration. Wecanassist ers, windgenerators,ACand trical, electronics,watermak- for marinedieselengines,elec- round experiencedtechnician Co. inGrenadaisseekingall Respected MarineEngineering MARINE TECHNICIANWANTED √ Orders aredeliveredFREE [email protected] 3527/433-3008 E-mail place orderTel(784)457- & flax,buttercrescents.To tigrain, bananabread,herbs every day!Wholewheat,mul- BREADS BEQUIA HOMEMADE

& Cakes made fresh & Cakesmadefresh WANTED MP=MarketPlacepages43to45 aauMrn Vnzea 27 MP Venezuela Bequia 36 MP Xanadu Marine St.Vincent MP Martinique WIND Martinique 22 Wallilabou Anchorage Wallace &Co 31 Grenada Voiles Assistance Grenada Vemasca Venezuela 37 Carriacou 40 Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout 38 MP Turbulence Sails St.Vincent MP Turbulence Sails Guadeloupe Grenada Turbulence AlternativeEnergy Bequia 27 Trans CaraibesRallies Trade WindsCruising 22 Tikal Arts&Crafts 26 Technick Grenada 41 SVG Air Grenada Superwind Germany St.Thomas Tortola St. ThomasYachtSales MP Spice IslandMarine Soper's HoleMarina 31 Admiralty Bay,Bequia month. Noreplies. Pre-paid bythe15thof sifieds areUS$10. photos accompanyingclas- bers incount.Linedrawings/ name, addressandnum- US 50¢perword–include on theInternet: caribbeancompass. SEE YOUTHERE! CLASSIFIED ADS We are We are www. com

Grenada MP WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 ISLAND GLOBAL YACHTING THE YACHT CLUB AT ISLE DE SOL CLUB AT THE YACHT newest megayacht marina is St. Maarten’s ideally situated near the Simpson Bay Bridge and has a magniﬁcent, highly secure, and private ambiance, impressive facilities and professional staff to provide any services, amenities, or requirements requested. Exclusively designed for the megayacht Club at Isle de Sol offers Yacht industry, a gated entrance leading to 45 slips that accommodate yachts ranging from 80 to 360’ with a maximum 20’ draft. MARINA SIMPSON BAY Simpson Bay Marina is at the epicenter most complete residential/ of the island’s This large marine/commercial center. vibrant marina village features 84 apartments, 50 shops and ofﬁces, bustling restaurants, swimming pools, tennis courts and pristine landscaping. The marina has 120 slips for vessels up to 180 feet with a max 15 foot draft and boasts the highest quality services and amenities expected at a luxury yachting marina. AT ST. MAARTEN’S MOST MAARTEN’S ST. AT SOUGHT AFTER DESTINATIONS Club at Isle de SolYacht The Simpson Bay Marina AMERICAS | CARIBBEAN | EUROPE | MIDDLE EAST For information or reservations

WWW.IGYMARINAS.COM 1.888.IGY.MARINAS WWW.IGYMARINAS.COM © 2009 Island Global Yachting Global Island 2009 © Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49

JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53 JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 JANUARY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 -

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited