Through Fields and Lowlands Poljima I Prodoljima
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Neću sada govoriti o uljuđenom i pitomom Pajizu, o njego- vim kalama i pjacetama, o njegovim dvorima i vrtovima, Poljima i salonima i konobama, pa ni o neusporedivom Tvrdlju. Tre- bao bi mi dar pripovjedača, a raspolažem isključivo spo- prodoljima sobnošću svjedoka i voljom da fiksiram neka iskustva kao zalog duboke veze sa zavičajem svih mojih predaka. Osje- ćanje duga prema bliskoj mi (a nepotpuno vlastitoj) sredini HVARSKI MALI NOĆNI HODOPIS vodilo me da nastojim otok što više usvojiti. A to se moglo ponajprije hodanjem – jedino pješak može osvojiti teren i samo se ljudskim korakom može steći potpuniji dojam o svojstvima zemlje. Šetajući s kraja na kraj izdužene uvale, još kao dječak mogao Through Fields sam upoznati obrađene vinograde i lučice s brodovima, dijelom zanemarene maslinike i mjesta samotnih kupanja. Kad sam se uspeo na obližnju and Lowlands Glavicu uspio sam pogledom and gardens, salons and taverns, not even about the obuhvatiti iznimno široku incomparable Tvrdalj. I would need the gift of a storyteller, A LITTLE HVAR NIGHT WALKALOGUE panoramu, a kad sam od te and I only have the ability of a witness and the willingness ― ni stometarske ― Glavice to anchor some experiences as a pledge of a deep con- nastavio do obližnjih zaselaka nection with the homeland of all my ancestors. The feel- Rudine otvarala mi se vizura ing of being indebted to the close environment (that is not Vani, ispred kuće, iz na drugu stranu, na kanal što completely my own) led me to try to adopt the island as Povodom 2400. godine osnutka Farosa serije Wegzug, 1982., Hvar dijeli od Brača (a Brač much as I could. And this could primarily be done by walk- monotipija kruni impozantna Vidova ing, only a pedestrian can conquer the terrain and only a N isam na otoku rođen. I ne živim na njemu. Ipak In the Outside, in Front gora). Malo veći, odrasliji, human step can provide a more complete impression of of the House, from the imam iluziju da sam s njime posebno srođen, da Wegzug series, 1982, puteljkom preko Budinjca the country’s properties. nigdje drugdje na svijetu nisam kod kuće kao u hvarskome monotype (sada makijom zaraslim) Walking the stretched cove from end to end, even as a boy, I Staromu Gradu. Razlog je tomu učestalost dolazaka od could get acquainted with the cultivated vineyards and little najranije mladosti, uska povezanost sa srodnicima i prija- harbors with boats, partly neglected olive groves and places teljima, a ponajprije raznoli- of solitary bathing. When I climbed to the nearby Glavica, I kost i bogatstvo doživljaja u On the occasion of the 2400th anniversary of the foundation napisao_written by TONKO managed to take in an exceptionally broad panorama, and svim godišnjima dobima i na of Pharos MAROEVIĆ | ilustracije_illu- when I continued from this ― not even a hundred-meter strations by STEPHAN MÄDER vrlo različitim lokalitetima, kako na moru tako i na kraju. I was not born on the island. And I do not live on it. Ne mogu, naravno, kazati da And yet I have the illusion that I am especially close sam čitav otok prošao, da sam to it, that I am nowhere else at home in the world as in Stari zavirio u sve njegove otajne Grad on the island of Hvar. The reason for this is the fre- ambijente ili doplovio (da ne quency of my visits from the earliest youth, close connection kažem: doplivao) u brojne with relatives and friends, and, most of all, the variety and njegove uvale i primorske richness of experiences in all seasons and in very different zakutke, ali smijem potvrditi localities, both on the sea and on the land. I cannot, of da sam nastojao odmjeriti mu course, say that I have gone through the whole island, that koordinate i upoznati mu I have peeked into all its mysterious environments or sailed razmjere. (not to say swum) to its numerous coves and coastal nooks, but I can confirm that I have tried to measure its coordi- nates, and get to know its proportions. I am not going to talk about the civilized and gentle Stari Grad, its narrow streets and little squares, its courtyards 152 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 153 high ― Glavica to the nearby hamlets of Rudina, a vista to U dvorištu, iz serije the other side opened for me, to the channel that divides Wegzug, 1982., monotipija Hvar from Brač (and Brač is crowned by the imposing Vidova In the Yard, from the Gora). When I was a little bigger, more adult, I would climb, Wegzug series, 1982, on a path over Budinjac (now overgrown with macchia), even monotype to the highest island peak, the top of St. Nicholas, from where a view was offered of the steep south island slopes, of the island of Šćedro close by, of the more distant Vis and Biševo, and, finally, of the fascinating and unreachable open sea. Returning from the conquered peak, I would take some other path and breathe the true forest air, because no mat- ter how narrow, thin and elongated in shape, Hvar also has some central spaces of almost continental atmosphere. It was nice to wake up a little earlier, before scorching sun had hit, and pop over to the viewpoint called Likorova Kuća, uspinjao bih se i do najvi- from which one can observe the houses of all three Dols šega otočnog vrha, glavice calmly from above. When I was in the mood, I would proceed These are the coordinates of my pedestrian familiarization svetoga Mikule, s kojega je to the prehistoric hill of Purkin Kuk and the correspond- with the Island, my occasional wandering and vagabond- pogled pucao na strme južne ing fort. Or go to the completely different north side, and age. I have traveled most of the Island’s roads by car and otočne padine, na otok Šćedro then descend to the indented Žukova Cove, or go a little fur- boat. I was in Sveta Nedilja and Ivan Dolac, in Basina and in pod okom, na udaljeniji Vis i ther west to the calm cove of Ključna. Walking to Maslinica Mudri Dolac, not to mention the stops on the way to Sućuraj Biševo i konačno na zanosnu or Zavala was not a big challenge (one would come there (but the stop in Gdinje, namely the house of the proud fam- nedohvatnu pučinu. Vraćajući more often by boat anyway), but the desire to walk to Cape ily Radovanović is worth mentioning). In all of these travels se s osvojenoga vrha prolazio Kabal could not be fulfilled for a long time, so I came to that I was not alone, I was accompanied by people dear to me, bih nekim drugim putem i desired destination only after the army had left the mili- and they seem as though they do not belong to my most udisao pravi šumski zrak, tary-controlled area, prohibited for civilians. But the ram- intimate, closest, most privileged, most egotistical dialogue jer ma koliko oblikom uzak pant intention of also walking to the town of Hvar, passing with the Island, not to say my confrontation with Hvar. i tanak, izdužen, Hvar ima through Selca, Grablje and Brusje, could not be hampered I could best have a real conversation with the Island’s her- i središnje prostore gotovo even by a dangerous summer swelter. itage in the dark, in the silence of the night and the cor- kontinentalnoga ugođaja. responding solitude. When I Lijepo je bilo probuditi se malo ranije, prije žarka sunca, Nediji i Ivan Dolcu, u Basini i u Mudrom Dolcu, da postaje was tired of my daily duties pa skoknuti do vidikovca zvanog Likorova kuća, s kojega se puta do Sućurja sad ne nabrajam (ali zastanak u Gdinju, and entertainment, at night- odozgo smireno motre kuće sva tri Dola. Kad je bilo više u kući ponosne obitelji Radovanović zaslužuje spomen). fall, I would go at least to the volje, dalo se i produžiti do pretpovijesne uzvisine Purkin Svi su ti puti bili u društvu i u dragoj pratnji, pa kao da nearby fields, Garmica, Peča, kuk i odgovarajuće gradine. Ili pak krenuti na sasvim drugu ne spadaju u moj najintimniji, najprisniji, najpovlašteniji, or to Vanje Gomile. When I stranu, sjevernu, pa se spustiti u razvedenu uvalu Žukova, najegoističniji dijalog s otokom, da ne kažem: moj obra- was fed up with resting and odnosno ići malo zapadnije do pitomoga zaljeva Ključna. čun s Hvarom. Pješačiti do Maslinice ili do Zavale nije bio velik izazov Pravi razgovor s otočnom baštinom mogao sam najbolje (uostalom, češće se do njih dolazilo brodom), ali želja da voditi u mraku, u noćnoj tišini i odgovarajućoj samoći. Kad dohodam do punte Kabla dugo mi se nije mogla ispuniti, bi me umorile dnevne obaveze i zabave zaputio bih se u pa sam do toga žuđenog odredišta dospio tek pošto je voj- suton barem do obližnjih polja, Garmice, Peče ili do Vanjih ska napustila zauzeti, za civile zabranjeni teren. Ali obi- gomil. Kad bi mi odmaranje također dodijalo poželio bih jesnu namjeru da dopješačim i do grada Hvara, prelazeći se malo umoriti, pa bih, također s padom mraka, krenuo, preko Selaca, Grablja i Brusja nije mogla spriječiti ni opa- recimo, prema Rudini Dulčićevih, ili otišao čak i do Šolja- sna ljetna sparina. novih (sjećajući se da i kod jednih i kod drugih imam pre- To su koordinate mojega pješačkog upoznavanja otoka, dačkih niti). Na taj bih način dan zaokružio i fizičkim kreta- mojih povremenih lutanja i landranja. Automobilima i bro- njem i emotivnim epilogom, prisjećanjem svega što mi se dićima prošao sam pak većinom otočnih cesta, bio u Svetoj zbilo u neposrednoj ili nešto daljoj prošlosti, a s razmaka 154 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018.