Neću sada govoriti o uljuđenom i pitomom Pajizu, o njego- vim kalama i pjacetama, o njegovim dvorima i vrtovima, Poljima i salonima i konobama, pa ni o neusporedivom Tvrdlju. Tre- bao bi mi dar pripovjedača, a raspolažem isključivo spo- prodoljima sobnošću svjedoka i voljom da fiksiram neka iskustva kao zalog duboke veze sa zavičajem svih mojih predaka. Osje- ćanje duga prema bliskoj mi (a nepotpuno vlastitoj) sredini HVARSKI MALI NOĆNI HODOPIS vodilo me da nastojim otok što više usvojiti. A to se moglo ponajprije hodanjem – jedino pješak može osvojiti teren i samo se ljudskim korakom može steći potpuniji dojam o svojstvima zemlje. Šetajući s kraja na kraj izdužene uvale, još kao dječak mogao Through Fields sam upoznati obrađene vinograde i lučice s brodovima, dijelom zanemarene maslinike i mjesta samotnih kupanja. Kad sam se uspeo na obližnju and Lowlands Glavicu uspio sam pogledom and gardens, salons and taverns, not even about the obuhvatiti iznimno široku incomparable Tvrdalj. I would need the gift of a storyteller, A LITTLE HVAR NIGHT WALKALOGUE panoramu, a kad sam od te and I only have the ability of a witness and the willingness ― ni stometarske ― Glavice to anchor some experiences as a pledge of a deep con- nastavio do obližnjih zaselaka nection with the homeland of all my ancestors. The feel- Rudine otvarala mi se vizura ing of being indebted to the close environment (that is not Vani, ispred kuće, iz na drugu stranu, na kanal što completely my own) led me to try to adopt the island as Povodom 2400. godine osnutka Farosa serije Wegzug, 1982., Hvar dijeli od Brača (a Brač much as I could. And this could primarily be done by walk- monotipija kruni impozantna Vidova ing, only a pedestrian can conquer the terrain and only a N isam na otoku rođen. I ne živim na njemu. Ipak In the Outside, in Front gora). Malo veći, odrasliji, human step can provide a more complete impression of of the House, from the imam iluziju da sam s njime posebno srođen, da Wegzug series, 1982, puteljkom preko Budinjca the country’s properties. nigdje drugdje na svijetu nisam kod kuće kao u hvarskome monotype (sada makijom zaraslim) Walking the stretched cove from end to end, even as a boy, I Staromu Gradu. Razlog je tomu učestalost dolazaka od could get acquainted with the cultivated vineyards and little najranije mladosti, uska povezanost sa srodnicima i prija- harbors with boats, partly neglected olive groves and places teljima, a ponajprije raznoli- of solitary bathing. When I climbed to the nearby Glavica, I kost i bogatstvo doživljaja u On the occasion of the 2400th anniversary of the foundation napisao_written by TONKO managed to take in an exceptionally broad panorama, and svim godišnjima dobima i na of Pharos MAROEVIĆ | ilustracije_illu- when I continued from this ― not even a hundred-meter strations by STEPHAN MÄDER vrlo različitim lokalitetima, kako na moru tako i na kraju. I was not born on the island. And I do not live on it. Ne mogu, naravno, kazati da And yet I have the illusion that I am especially close sam čitav otok prošao, da sam to it, that I am nowhere else at home in the world as in Stari zavirio u sve njegove otajne Grad on the island of Hvar. The reason for this is the fre- ambijente ili doplovio (da ne quency of my visits from the earliest youth, close connection kažem: doplivao) u brojne with relatives and friends, and, most of all, the variety and njegove uvale i primorske richness of experiences in all seasons and in very different zakutke, ali smijem potvrditi localities, both on the sea and on the land. I cannot, of da sam nastojao odmjeriti mu course, say that I have gone through the whole island, that koordinate i upoznati mu I have peeked into all its mysterious environments or sailed razmjere. (not to say swum) to its numerous coves and coastal nooks, but I can confirm that I have tried to measure its coordi- nates, and get to know its proportions. I am not going to talk about the civilized and gentle Stari Grad, its narrow streets and little squares, its courtyards

152 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 153 high ― Glavica to the nearby hamlets of Rudina, a vista to U dvorištu, iz serije the other side opened for me, to the channel that divides Wegzug, 1982., monotipija Hvar from Brač (and Brač is crowned by the imposing Vidova In the Yard, from the Gora). When I was a little bigger, more adult, I would climb, Wegzug series, 1982, on a path over Budinjac (now overgrown with macchia), even monotype to the highest island peak, the top of St. Nicholas, from where a view was offered of the steep south island slopes, of the island of Šćedro close by, of the more distant Vis and Biševo, and, finally, of the fascinating and unreachable open sea. Returning from the conquered peak, I would take some other path and breathe the true forest air, because no mat- ter how narrow, thin and elongated in shape, Hvar also has some central spaces of almost continental atmosphere. It was nice to wake up a little earlier, before scorching sun had hit, and pop over to the viewpoint called Likorova Kuća, uspinjao bih se i do najvi- from which one can observe the houses of all three Dols šega otočnog vrha, glavice calmly from above. When I was in the mood, I would proceed These are the coordinates of my pedestrian familiarization svetoga Mikule, s kojega je to the prehistoric hill of Purkin Kuk and the correspond- with the Island, my occasional wandering and vagabond- pogled pucao na strme južne ing fort. Or go to the completely different north side, and age. I have traveled most of the Island’s roads by car and otočne padine, na otok Šćedro then descend to the indented Žukova Cove, or go a little fur- boat. I was in Sveta Nedilja and Ivan Dolac, in Basina and in pod okom, na udaljeniji Vis i ther west to the calm cove of Ključna. Walking to Maslinica Mudri Dolac, not to mention the stops on the way to Sućuraj Biševo i konačno na zanosnu or Zavala was not a big challenge (one would come there (but the stop in Gdinje, namely the house of the proud fam- nedohvatnu pučinu. Vraćajući more often by boat anyway), but the desire to walk to Cape ily Radovanović is worth mentioning). In all of these travels se s osvojenoga vrha prolazio Kabal could not be fulfilled for a long time, so I came to that I was not alone, I was accompanied by people dear to me, bih nekim drugim putem i desired destination only after the army had left the mili- and they seem as though they do not belong to my most udisao pravi šumski zrak, tary-controlled area, prohibited for civilians. But the ram- intimate, closest, most privileged, most egotistical dialogue jer ma koliko oblikom uzak pant intention of also walking to the town of Hvar, passing with the Island, not to say my confrontation with Hvar. i tanak, izdužen, Hvar ima through Selca, Grablje and Brusje, could not be hampered I could best have a real conversation with the Island’s her- i središnje prostore gotovo even by a dangerous summer swelter. itage in the dark, in the silence of the night and the cor- kontinentalnoga ugođaja. responding solitude. When I Lijepo je bilo probuditi se malo ranije, prije žarka sunca, Nediji i Ivan Dolcu, u Basini i u Mudrom Dolcu, da postaje was tired of my daily duties pa skoknuti do vidikovca zvanog Likorova kuća, s kojega se puta do Sućurja sad ne nabrajam (ali zastanak u Gdinju, and entertainment, at night- odozgo smireno motre kuće sva tri Dola. Kad je bilo više u kući ponosne obitelji Radovanović zaslužuje spomen). fall, I would go at least to the volje, dalo se i produžiti do pretpovijesne uzvisine Purkin Svi su ti puti bili u društvu i u dragoj pratnji, pa kao da nearby fields, Garmica, Peča, kuk i odgovarajuće gradine. Ili pak krenuti na sasvim drugu ne spadaju u moj najintimniji, najprisniji, najpovlašteniji, or to Vanje Gomile. When I stranu, sjevernu, pa se spustiti u razvedenu uvalu Žukova, najegoističniji dijalog s otokom, da ne kažem: moj obra- was fed up with resting and odnosno ići malo zapadnije do pitomoga zaljeva Ključna. čun s Hvarom. Pješačiti do Maslinice ili do Zavale nije bio velik izazov Pravi razgovor s otočnom baštinom mogao sam najbolje (uostalom, češće se do njih dolazilo brodom), ali želja da voditi u mraku, u noćnoj tišini i odgovarajućoj samoći. Kad dohodam do punte Kabla dugo mi se nije mogla ispuniti, bi me umorile dnevne obaveze i zabave zaputio bih se u pa sam do toga žuđenog odredišta dospio tek pošto je voj- suton barem do obližnjih polja, Garmice, Peče ili do Vanjih ska napustila zauzeti, za civile zabranjeni teren. Ali obi- gomil. Kad bi mi odmaranje također dodijalo poželio bih jesnu namjeru da dopješačim i do grada Hvara, prelazeći se malo umoriti, pa bih, također s padom mraka, krenuo, preko Selaca, Grablja i Brusja nije mogla spriječiti ni opa- recimo, prema Rudini Dulčićevih, ili otišao čak i do Šolja- sna ljetna sparina. novih (sjećajući se da i kod jednih i kod drugih imam pre- To su koordinate mojega pješačkog upoznavanja otoka, dačkih niti). Na taj bih način dan zaokružio i fizičkim kreta- mojih povremenih lutanja i landranja. Automobilima i bro- njem i emotivnim epilogom, prisjećanjem svega što mi se dićima prošao sam pak većinom otočnih cesta, bio u Svetoj zbilo u neposrednoj ili nešto daljoj prošlosti, a s razmaka

154 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 155 wanted to get a little tired, I would go, also with the fall of Kako bilo, mrak je imao i svojih iznimno svijetlih strana. night, say, towards Rudina of the Dulčićs, or even to the Recimo, kad bi nas barba Rate poveo na ribolov pod sviću, Šoljans (remembering that my ancestral roots are tied to gdje bi se pod zrakama Petromaxa rastvarala prozirna mor- both of them). In that way, I would round the day off with ska dubina u svim svojim slojevima. Da ne govorimo o još both the physical movement and the emotional epilogue, uzbudljivijem (utoliko rjeđem) doživljaju noćnog odlaska recalling everything that happened to me in the immedi- s pravim, profesionalnim ribarima; tu je ljeskanje mora, ate or somewhat further past, but from the distance of the posebno pak svjetlucanje iskrica u moru potaknuto kre- space conquered with walking and the remoteness gained tanjem vesala, zadobijalo upravo zanosnu ljepotu. A ljeti, hodanjem osvojenoga pro- with darkness. kad bi nam dozvolili spavati na terasi, na otvorenom, zbog stora i mrakom zadobijene The experience of darkness, night, is for me really deeply gašenja gradske rasvjete, nebo je odsijevalo treperenjem distance. Hvar-like, Stari Grad-like. Nowhere else have I been so in zvijezda kakvo se nije moglo doživjeti u splitskoj gradskoj Doživljaj mraka, noći, zapravo touch with the darkness, seeing it from both a positive and sredini. Još jači doživljaj zvjezdanog neba imali smo kad je za mene duboko hvarski, a negative side. During my childhood, the electric light was bismo prostrli deke u polju (čuvajući urod) ili na nekom starogrojski. Nigdje drugdje switched off at nine o’clock in the winter (in the summer, šljunčanom žalu (odmarajući se za ribolova). I located just around the Cross nisam bio toliko u dodiru s the power plant worked until ten), so people went to bed Osobitu gustinu i tišinu dobijala je hvarska noć u tri sata at the entrance to the town, so tamom, gledajući to s pozi- early, and the home light was provided only by the wick of ujutro, pogotovo u zimskim uvjetima. Naime, tada su nas in the dark, a sense of imma- tivne i s negativne strane. U a paraffin lamp or a candle. When going to the neighbours, budili da se, bez svjetla u sobi i na ulici, obučemo i spre- nent danger washed over me. vrijeme mojega djetinjstva the battery light would be used (if available). At home, at mimo za brod, koji je u četiri sata polazio prema Splitu. Anyway, darkness also had električno se svjetlo gasilo my uncles’ (father’s brothers), I was half native, half for- Izlazak u hladni mrak razbudio bi brata i mene i samo nas its exceptionally bright sides. već u devet sati, zimi (ljeti eigner, and I was less troubled by Preradović’s poem about a je ponos na našu hrabrost jačao da izdržimo. A možda i For example, when Uncle je centrala radila do deset), poor wayfarer, to whom darkness is darker in the dark, than vesela zloba kad bismo vidjeli kako su neki pospanci, Rate would take us fishing tako da se išlo rano spavati, Šenoa’s The House of the Plague, which, at the earliest age, manje odlučni i spremni, zakasnili na brod, a mi smo s under the lamplight, where, a kućno je svjetlo osigura- palube broda, koji je već pustio cimu, promatrali njihovo under the Petromax rays, the vao jedino žižak petrolejke ili šterike. Kad bi se odlazilo uzaludno trčanje do ruba rive i do već nedohvatnog plove- clear sea depth would unfold do susjeda svijetlilo se baterijom (ukoliko je bila na ras- ćeg cilja. Šalu na stranu, kad bismo se pak sami zatekli u in all its layers. Not to men- polaganju). Kod kuće, kod mojih barbâ (očeve braće) bio mračnim sobama velike i poluprazne stojne kuće, nije nam tion an even more exciting sam napol domaći, napol došljak, a manje me je mučila bilo do smijeha. (and all the rarer) experience Preradovićeva pjesma o putniku siromaku, kojemu je veći Eto, u takvoj noći dobijao bih volju da izađem u prirodu, da of a late night departure with mrak u mraku, negoli prisjećanje na Šenoinu Kuginu kuću, prodrem kroz mrak do neke udaljene i markantne točke. real, professional fishermen; koju sam, u najranijoj dobi, bio locirao baš oko Križa na Najradije bih izlazio iz grada prema istoku, prošao bih the shimmering of the sea, ulazu u mjesto, pa mi se u mraku vraćala misao o uveća- especially the glimmer of the noj opasnosti. sparks in the sea, driven by the movement of the paddles, acquired an even more enchanting beauty. And in the sum- mer, when we were allowed to sleep on the terrace, in the open, because city lighting would be turned off, the sky was Vani, na cesti, iz lit by a flickering of the stars that could not be experienced serije Wegzug, 1982., in Split’s urban environment. We had an even stronger expe- monotipija rience of a starry sky when we spread the blankets in the In the Outside, in field (guarding the crop), or on some pebbled shore (rest- the Street, from the Wegzug series, 1982, ing while fishing). monotype The Hvar night got thick and silent at three in the morning, especially in the winter. In fact, that was the time when we were woken up, without lights in the room or on the street, to get dressed and ready for the ship, which left for Split at four. Coming out into the cold darkness would awaken my brother and me, and only the pride of our courage strength- ened us to endure. And perhaps there was also a cheerful malice when we saw some sleepyheads, less determined

156 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 157 and ready, late for the ship, while from the deck of the ship lirskih napora hvarskih pisaca, jer je otoku pridavao mit- that had already cast off the ropes, we watched their futile sku dimenziju, imenujući ga, uostalom, starim slavenskim run to the edge of the waterfront and to the already unreach- nazivom, što bi asocirao njegovu pošumljenost (ljes) na able sailing target. Joking aside, it was not so funny when blistavoj kamenitoj (mramoritoj) podlozi. we found ourselves alone in the dark rooms of the large and Moje noćno putovanje time zadobija i eruditsku nit. Tako- half-empty detached house. reći nehotice prikradaju se prisjećanja, podlo prodire i There, during such a night, I would get the urge to go out patetika. Kako zaboraviti da ulazim u prostor posvećen into nature, to penetrate through the darkness to some dis- radom već stotina naraštaja, osnovan i pedantno parceli- tant and imposing point. I would best like to go out of the ran prije dvije tisuće i više godina. A što su to učinili Grci, town to the east, I would pass Šiberija and Granica, continue naši idealni prethodnici i zatočenici bitnih tekovina europ- along the Winery, and take the old road to Vrboska. If there ske kulture, moglo je samo uvećati osjećaj važnosti ambi- was moonlight, good, and if not, it was perhaps even more jenta, pa i mojem prolasku dati neku relaciju (učiniti me interesting and exciting. I was no longer afraid of the ghosts proporcionalno sitnim u odnosu na vremenske raspone što of the young deceased, I was too old for that, but I was a bit idu nekako od Aristotelova rođenja). ashamed if anyone saw me and asked where I was going, Moja staza prema Vrboskoj ide uz sam sjeverni rub tog and what I was doing in the middle of the night. It was not agera (ager Pharensis, nazi- likely that anyone would think I was about to steal some vahu ga Rimljani, Hora into parcels more than two thousand years ago? And the grapes or figs, but it might have occurred to anyone that Faroi pak Grci), a utabana je fact that the Greeks, our ideal predecessors and captives some mischievousness was at stake. And I just wanted to jamačno od najdavnijih dana. of the essential achievements of European culture, did it, Šiberiju i Granicu, nastavio walk, in peace and alone with myself, and think over my daily Suhozidine i gomile uz nju, could only heighten the sense of importance of the environ- uz Vinariju i zaputio se starim thoughts and vent my brain. međutim, većinom su nešto ment, and even give my passing some relation (make me putem prema Vrboskoj. Ako bi I went to the field, to the Stari Grad Plain, in actuality the recentnije, no s nemalom proportionally tiny in comparison to the time span ranging bila mjesečina, dobro, a ako fields of many villagers and locals, including a multitude of patinom davnine i uložena from Aristotle’s birth). ne možda još zanimljivije i my heterogeneous ancestors, partly owners, but mostly only truda, a nabijeno kamenje na My path to Vrboska goes by the very northern edge of this uzbudljivije. Nisam se više tenants and cultivators. I wished to walk in the fields, wan- putu čini da svaki korak treba field (it was called by the Romans ager Pharensis, and by plašio macićina (duhova mla- der in the lowlands, the coves between the hilly slopes at pažljivo odmjeriti, pogotovo the Greeks Hora Faroi), and it has undoubtedly been used dih umrlih), bio sam prestar the edge of the central range. And the word lowland belongs ukoliko je vidljivost znatno from the most ancient days. The drystone walls and drys- za to, ali bilo me pomalo stid to the literary lexis, the reading, the verse of Ante Tresić tone piles, however, are mostly somewhat more recent, ako me tko vidi i zapita kamo Pavičić, The Hidden Lowlands of Marble Ljesna, for which but with substantial patina of old age and invested effort, idem i što radim u to mrklo Grgo Gamulin claimed it was the only authentic outcome while the packed stones on the road require every step to doba. Neće nitko pomisliti da of all the lyric efforts of Hvar writers because it attached be carefully measured, especially if the visibility is consid- baš idem u krađu grožđa ili a mythical dimension to the island by also providing its old erably limited (due to the eclipse). But spatial landmarks smokava, ali da su neka neči- Slavic name, Ljesna1, referring to its wooded nature on the sta posla moglo je svakomu glowing stone (marble) foundation. My night travel thus also pasti na pamet. A meni se jed- acquires an aspect of erudition. Inadvertently, so to speak, nostavno išlo da se nahodam memories sneak up, pathos infiltrates deviously. How could Atlantik, iz serije Wegzug, 1982., i da u miru sam sa sobom I forget that I enter into a space consecrated by the work of monotipija pregruntam dnevne misli i hundreds of generations, founded and pedantically divided Atlantic, from the provjetrim mozak. Wegzug series, 1982, Išao sam u polje, u starogradsko polje, a zapravo u polja 1 Translator’s note: ljes monotype mnogih mještana i suseljana, među kojima je i mnoštvo means wood in the local Croatian dialect mojih raznorodnih predaka, dijelom vlasnika, a većim dijelom samo zakupnika i obrađivača. Poželio sam pro- šetati poljima, proskitati prodoljima, uvalama između brežuljkastih padina na rubu središnjega areala. A riječ prodolja pripada literarnom leksiku, lektiri, stihu Ante Tre- sića Pavičića: Prodolja skrivna mramorite Ljesne, za koji je Grgo Gamulin tvrdio da je jedini autentični ishod svih

158 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 159 ograničena (zbog pomrčine). Ali važni su prostorni orijen- Granica prema nigdje, tiri, poneki poljski trim ili, pogotovo, crkvica, kapela. Malo iz serije Wegzug, 1982., monotipija po izlasku iz grada naići ću na kamenu kapelu zvanu Gos- Frontier to Nowhere, pojina, a kad malo produžim udesno, južno, doći ću i do from the Wegzug svete Jeline (s kamenim reljefom lava), kao što pri prilazu series, 1982, Rudini dolazak do kapelice svetoga Avliža označava (bolju, monotype veću, strmiju) polovicu puta. Doista, svetački toponimi više su nego dobrodošli u snalaženju, a noću pak mogu biti svo- jevrsni duhovni svjetionici. Lijevo od Gospojine, na maloj uzvisini je Starač, polje nasli- jeđeno i dugo u obitelji. Moja braća Jakša i Vinko, a pogo- tovo moj rođak Tonči, dijelom i danas nastavljaju tradiciju, pa are important, an occasional small drystone house in the su malo obnovili, malo dopu- field, or a church, a chapel. A little while after leaving the nili, malo još kupili, pa stvo- town I will come across a stone chapel called Gospojina, rili kutak gdje se može pone- and when I go a little further to the right, to the south, I will što raditi i potom se prepustiti also come to the sacred Jelina (with a stone relief of a lion), odmaranju, takoreći ladanju. just as, at the approach to Rudina, the arrival to the chapel around little field cottages. When you do not hear the dogs, Prolazim noću i nitko neće of St. Avliž signifies the (better, bigger, steeper) half of the you seem to hear the earth breathing. In any case, it evapo- vidjeti da sam se zacrvenio way. Indeed, toponyms of the saints are more than welcome rates the heat accumulated during the day, and changes it što i sam ne sudjelujem u tim in the orientation, while, at night, they can be a kind of spir- for the newly gained freshness. At one point, shocked, I hear zahvatima, a uspomene me itual lighthouses. (ili, potom, na mulu) vodio a grunt. I jerk from fear, only to make myself aware of the vode u daleka vremena, prije To the left of Gospojina, on a small hill lies Starač, an inher- u polja. Čak trojica malenih fact that wild boars also wander through the fields. više od pola stoljeća, kad sam ited field that has long been in the family. My brothers Jakša zajedno smo jahali na živomu If I divert from the main path, I come across the beautifully s veseljem znao sudjelovati u and Vinko, and especially my cousin Tonči, partly continue i možete zamisliti kako smo arranged rows of grape vines, vegetable beds, most often jematvi (trganju grožđa, koje the tradition to this day, so they slightly renewed it, slightly se važnima osjećali. of tomatoes and potatoes, but, of course, I do not pick or je onda bilo prava fešta, jer je added to it, and bought a little bit more, thus creating a place Opterećen sjećanjima nastav- pluck anything. Here and there I cross the walls that fol- vino donosilo ozbiljan doho- where one can work a bit, and then rest, relax in the coun- ljam hod i snalazim se pogle- low the direction of the ancient Greek cadaster, a division dak), a koji put i u kopanju tryside, so to speak. I am passing it by the cover of the night, dajući prema Dolu sv. Miho- made by settlers from the Aegean Island of Paros when they ili žanjonju (žetvi) lavande. and no one will see that I am blushing because I, myself, vila, crkvi na brežuljku s descended from the ships, recognizing in the fertile plain A još je udaljenije doba kad do not participate in those undertakings, and my memories južne strane. Kad prođem a chance for a good, new life. The measure that these fol- nas je barba Šime na konju bring me back to a time long gone, more than half a century dolske krajeve onda sam već lowers of the Pythagoreans imposed on the space continues ago, when I was happy to participate in the grape harvest duboko u polju i teško da ću to function as a criterion and means of orientation to this (which was quite a festivity back then, as wine generated više naići na čovjeka. Ipak, day, so the traces of their undertakings are today marked in substantial income), and sometimes also in hoeing or har- i u kasno noćno doba, ljeti, several places. In any case, the orthogonal communication vesting lavender. And even more distant is the time when poneki automobil svojim faro- network is the fruit of their principles. Uncle Šime led us to the fields, on horseback (or, later, on vima razbija tamu, a neki pro- a mule). As many as three of us little ones rode together laze i starim putem gdje se mimoilaze sa mnom. Blaženu on the animal, and you can imagine how important we felt. noćnu tišinu povremeno, a sustavno, prekida samo lavež Burdened with memories, I continue my walk and get my pasa, razasutih po raznim dijelovima polja, najčešće uz bearings by looking at the Dol of St. Michael, a church on a poljske kućice. Kad ne čuješ pse čini ti se da pratiš kako hilltop on the south side. When I pass the Dol area, I am deep sama zemlja diše, u svakom slučaju isparava preko dana in the field, and it is not likely I will meet anyone afterwards. nakupljenu vrelinu i mijenja je novostečenom svježinom. However, even late at night, in the summer, an occasional U jednom trenutku, zgranut, začujem i groktanje, trgnem car breaks the darkness with its headlights, and some take se od straha, da bih u sebi osvijestio kako poljima lutaju the old path where they pass me by. The blessed silence of i divlje svinje. the night is occasionally, but systematically, interrupted only Siđem li ponegdje s glavne staze, nailazim na lijepo sre- by dogs barking from various parts of the field, most often đene nizove trsja, na lijehe povrća, najčešće pomidora i

160 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 161 I arrived at a crossroad. To the left, I would go to Basina Step by step, and I arrive in the vicinity of Vrboska. The for- Cove, and to the right, to Vrbanj. From afar I see Vrbanj’s tress church can be seen from a distance, and it looks quite bell tower, the campanile celebrated in the verses of the monumental, convincing, not to say scary. I descend to the poet Pere Ljubić, and I think with love of the paintings and town, pass by the local sea channel, cut (or enriched) by an friendship of Uncle Jakov Bratanić, who found appropriate old stone bridge, and complemented by a harmonious island artistic correlates for the places and environments, modest in the center. It is two o’clock after midnight, and there are monuments and folk tradition of his (and our) homeland. still some people sitting in front of a closed café, and on the If I go in my mind further to the south, I will also come to waterfront marina, on the moored vessels, signs of life can Vrisnik, the hometown of the Franičevićs, Marin and Jure, also be heard. Passing by the coastal gas station I continue Chakavian rhapsodists and creators of human chronicles, on the path along the sea towards Jelsa, the path I have while it can also be claimed that Marin’s Mikula Trudni epic passed many times over the decades. expressed the ethos of centuries of cultivation, excruciating The density of construction amazes me, villas or rentals digging and stingy living on the otherwise fertile soil I walk have sprung up along almost the entire path, whereas a on. I also do not forget that the mother of my friend Zvonko long time ago, when I used to come to Professor Gamulin krumpira, ali naravno, ništa Mrkonjić, a poet who sublimed his Hvar genetic share into in his Vitarnja, there were only a few lonely houses. Vitarnja, ne berem i ne kidam. Tu i the more universal Mediterraneanism, is also from Vrisnik. open to the magnificent Biokovo mountain, introduces the tamo siječem se sa zidićima A few kilometers further on I pass by the aerodrome, luckily breath of the terraferma to the Hvar tame land; it reminds koji prate smjer staroga grč- still small, on a field, suitable only for take-offs and land- us that most of the population came from the nearby main- koga katastra, podjele koju ings of private twin-engine planes, two-seaters, or just land (and, before that, from longer distances), as did the su izvršili doseljenici s egej- only slightly bigger aircrafts. I am happy that the idea of bearers of my family name. As they connected, throughout skog otoka Parosa, kad su expanding the aerodrome and transforming it into a proper the years, with a variety of more and less native inhabit- sišli s brodova, prepoznavši u airport was abandoned, because it would mean enlarging ants, our layered genealogy plodnoj ravnici šansu dobroga the runway significantly and asphalting it, thereby not only Koji kilometar dalje prolazim uz aerodrom, srećom još is by no means one-sided, novog življenja. Mjera koju su destroying a significant area of arable land, but also for- samo mali, poljski, prikladan jedino za polijetanje i slije- though it is quite endemic to ti sljedbenici pitagorejaca ever disrupting the peace and tranquility of the central part tanje privatnih dvomotoraca, dvosjeda ili tek nešto većih the island. And that is how ― nametnuli prostoru i danas of the island plain, the space because of which the island letjelica. Sretan sam što se odustalo od ideje da se aero- I comfort myself while walk- još funkcionira kao kriterij i was populated and cultivated in the first place. Walking past drom proširuje i pretvori u pravu zračnu luku, da se trasa ing ― my sense of belonging kao usmjerenje, pa su na više a couple of parked small aircrafts, I applaud the decision znatno uveća i asfaltira, te ne samo uništi znatan areal to the island is also reinforced. mjesta danas označeni tra- about postponing the reconstruction, because, also per- obradivoga zemljišta, nego i zauvijek dokine mir i spokoj I enter Jelsa, passing by the govi njihovih intervencija. U sonally – quite currently – I have come to enjoy the silence središnjega dijela otočne ravnice, prostora zbog kojega new and old hotels. At the svakom slučaju ortogonalna that stretches around the sleeping and dreaming, otherwise je otok i naseljavan i kultiviran. Šetajući uz par parkiranih town entrance, there is the mreža komunikacija plod je noisy machines. aviončića blagoslivljam odluku o odlaganju rekonstrukcije, glorious Dubokovićs’ house, njihovih zasada. jer i osobno – sasvim aktualno – uživam u tišini koja se with a salon from the bour- Stigao sam pritom do raskrižja puteva, lijevo bih otišao u prostire oko zaspalih, zasanjanih, inače bučnih, strojeva. geois era as a reminder of valu Basina, desno pak u Vrbanj. Vidim iz daljine vrbanjski Korak po korak i stigao sam nadomak Vrboske. Crkva- days past, and of pleasant zvonik, kampanel opjevan od Pereta Ljubića, a mislim s lju- tvrđava vidi se iz daljine i doima sasvim monumentalno, company as well. I do not bavlju na slike i prijateljstvo barba Jakova Bratanića, koji je uvjerljivo, da ne kažem zastrašujuće. Spuštam se u mje- meet anyone on the way, it is za mjesta i ambijente, skromne spomenike i pučku tradi- sto, prolazim uz mjesni morski kanal, presječen (ili obo- ciju svojega (i našega) zavičaja našao odgovarajuće likovne gaćen) starim kamenim mostom, po sredini još dopunjen korelative. Uputim li se mišlju dalje prema jugu doprijet ću skladnim otočićem. Dva su sata po ponoći i još ponetko i do Vrisnika, mjesta otkuda su Franičevići, Marin i Jure, sjedi ispred zatvorenoga kafića, a na rivi-marini po usidre- čakavski rapsodi i tvorci ljudskih kronika, a barem za epo- nim brodovima također se čuje koji znak života. Mimoila- peju Marinova Mikule Trudnega smijemo ustvrditi kako je zeći obalnu benzinsku stanicu nastavljam putem uz more izrazila etos stoljetnog obrađivanja, mučnoga kopanja i prema Jelsi, stazom kojom sam prolazio u mnogo navrata škrtoga življenja na inače plodnom tlu, kojim prolazim. Ne tijekom desetljeća. zaboravljam ni da je iz Vrisnika i majka mojega prijatelja Začuđuje me gustoća izgradnje, gotovo uz čitav put Zvonka Mrkonjića, pjesnika koji je svoju hvarsku genetsku niknule su vile ili iznajmljivališta, a kad sam davno dola- dionicu sublimirao u univerzalniji mediteranizam. zio profesoru Gamulinu u njegovu Vitarnju bilo je svega par

162 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 163 usamljenih kuća. Vitarnja, otvorena prema veličanstvenom Ispred Velike ravnice, Biokovu, unosi dah teraferme u hvarsku pitominu, podsjeća iz serije Wegzug, 1982., monotipija nas da je većina stanovništva pristigla s obližnjega kopna In Front of the Great (a prije toga iz većih daljina), pa tako i nosioci mojega obi- Plain, from the teljskog prezimena. Kako su se u međuvremenu povezali Wegzug series, 1982, s nizom većih i manjih starosjedilaca, slojevita nam gene- monotype alogija nije nipošto jednostrana, makar poprilično otočno endemska. I na taj način, mislim si hodajući, i tješim se, učvršćujem svoju pripadnost otoku. Ulazim u Jelsu, pokraj novih i starih hotela, a na ulazu u mjesto dična je kuća Dubokovića, sa salonom iz građan- skog doba kao podsjećanjem na minule dane, pa i lijepe sastanke. Putem ne susrećem nikoga, odveć je kasno, ali ne mogu odoljeti a da ne zavirim u središte mjesta, opko- račim oko barokne crkve sv. Ivana na malom trgu, što je svakako spomenik dostojan nježne participacije. Iz Jelse se odlučujem vratiti standardnom automobilskom cestom I come to the cross at the entrance to Stari Grad, then to (da ne idem natrag istim putem kojim sam došao, a i kraće the church of St. Lucy, from where the house of my grand- je, jer kasno je, vrijeme da što prije stignem kući). father and my uncles can be seen, the house to which most Dakle, sada pješačim po tvrdom asfaltu i svako toliko of my boyhood and youthful events are connected. I think of moram sići s kolnika, jer me mimoilaze automobili. Makar them all with love, of cousins and aunts, friends from years je već oko tri sata po ponoći promet sasvim ne sustaje; ago. Although I went for a solitary walk, just to be alone with dapače, do pred jutro će se samo povećavati jer se ljudi, myself for a while, I actually brought along thoughts of my gosti, vraćaju iz jednoga i iz drugoga smjera, budući da near and not so near relatives, that is, they accompanied su potražili neku promjenu u inače naglo upoznatom i me in my memories. brzo emotivno potrošenom To some writers, their own room was enough to create excit- novom boravištu. Neki mi too late, but I cannot resist peeking at the centre of the town, da se vratim u bazu. Desetak ing travelogues; others needed wide continental spaces to nude da će me povesti, a to walking around the baroque church of St. John’s on a small kilometara krutog pješačenja give the driest of reports. My little walkalogue of one night odlučno odbijam, želeći zao- square that is certainly a monument worthy of gentle par- nije malo, ali praćeno je zado- ― but compiled of excerpts and memories from several dif- kružiti svoj mali noćni izlet ticipation. I decide to return from Jelsa using the standard voljstvom doživljaja, koji su ferent nights ― is just a statement of fidelity to my dear u vidu hodočašća izvorima. car road (and not go back the same way I arrived, as it is manje vizualni, više nutarnji, space, a confirmation that I am aware that, when I come to Meni moje ljetno ― nekoć i shorter and because it is late, time for me to come home intimni, takoreći ispod spušte- Stari Grad, I know I am coming home. zimsko ― boravište nipošto as soon as possible). nijeh trepavica. nije dodijalo i jedva čekam So now I walk on hard asphalt, and every now and then I have Stižem do križa na ulazu u Stari Grad, potom do crkve svete to get off the road because the cars pass me by. Although Lucije, otkud se vidi kuća mojega noneta i mojih barbâ, uz it is about three o’clock after midnight, the traffic does not koju je vezan najveći dio mojih dječačkih i mladenačkih diminish completely; on the contrary, until the morning it zbivanja. Mislim s ljubavlju na sve njih, još na rođake i tete, will only increase, because people, guests, come back from na prijatelje iz davnih dana. Premda sam u šetnju otišao both directions, because they are looking for a change since samotan, baš da malo budem sam sa sobom, zapravo sam new ambiences soon become too familiar and emotionally putem ponio misli na bližnje i daljnje, odnosno oni su me exhausted. Some people offer to give me a lift, and I reso- pratili u prisjećanjima. lutely refuse, wanting to round off my little night hike in the Nekim je piscima bila dovoljna vlastita soba da sačine form of a pilgrimage to the roots. I am by no means fed up uzbudljiv putopis, drugima su trebali široki kontinentalni with my summer ― once also winter ― residence, and I can prostori da dadu najsuhlji izvještaj. Moj mali hodopis od hardly wait to get back to the base. Ten kilometers of trek- jedne noći (a složen od isječaka i spomena nekoliko raznih king is no small feat, but it is accompanied by the pleasure noćiju) samo je iskaz vjernosti milom mi prostoru, potvrda of the experiences, which are less visual, more interior, inti- da sam svjestan kako stižući u Stari Grad znadem da dola- mate, behind shut eyes, so to speak. zim doma.

164 ORIS 111, GODINA _ YEAR 2018. TONKO MAROEVIĆ, POLJIMA I PRODOLJIMA_THROUGH FIELDS AND LOWLANDS 165