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Sebuah Kajian Pustaka International Journal of Engineering, Science and Mathematics Vol. 6Issue 7, November 2017, ISSN: 2320-0294 Impact Factor: 6.765 Journal Homepage: http://www.ijesm.co.in, Email: [email protected] Double-Blind Peer Reviewed Refereed Open Access International Journal - Included in the International Serial Directories Indexed & Listed at: Ulrich's Periodicals Directory ©, U.S.A., Open J-Gage as well as in Cabell’s Directories of Publishing Opportunities, U.S.A POWER DRIVEN LOOMS: THE INDIAN DECENTRALISED TEXTILE SECTOR* * Dr. Durgesh Kumar Srivastava, Assistant Prof. Sociology, Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Government Degree College, Saidpur, Ghazipur U.P., Abstract The powerloom industry came to be a successor and extension of the handloom industry. It was therefore obvious that handloom centers in the country developed into powerloom centers also. Of course, there were some other centers which developed independently as powerloom centers for different reasons. The main ailment of the power loom industry is that a large portion of it depends upon the private spinners for the supply of yarn and on the master weavers for the processing of cloth, its sale, etc. The imbalance in the weaving and spinning capacity and lack of a co-operative infrastructure for pre and post weaving facilities have been causing acute economic hardships to the weavers. Besides, as their services are not institutionalized, they have to forgo the commercial gains of their labour and have been reduced to the position of hired labour. The vast majorities of power loom weavers fall in the lowest income group. Majority of them work for master weavers who exploit them by manipulating the prices of raw materials as well as finished goods to their own advantage. Sometimes, weavers are also fleeced by the master weavers and the money lenders, who charge usurious rates of interest on loans taken by the weavers to buy materials or equipments or to tide over difficult periods or for the celebrations of a marriage or the defraying of medical expenses. There is also widespread unemployment among the weavers. This paper is based on secondary data and tries to identify the challenges faced by the workforce in decentralized powerloom sector and the government’s response in resolving these issues. Introduction- The textile industry is as old as the human civilization. Cloth is one of the basic needs of human beings. Mills, handlooms and powerlooms constitute the tree independent sectors of the Indian Textile Industry, which to a considerable extent compete with each other, and together meet the clothing requirements of the country, generates surplus for export and provide employment to a large number of people. While the mill sector is organized, mechanized and getting rapidly modernized to meet the challenges of a competitive market, the powerloom sector and the handloom sector have remained technologically backward and stagnant, largely unorganized. While textile mills are engaged in both spinning and weaving while powerlooms are weaving factories which get yarn from and get the cloth processed outside. Typically these are small firms, since weaving itself is subject to limited economies of scale. They tend to be small enough to escape the official system of labor and regulation. They range from 6-8 second hand handlooms operated mainly with hired labor but not covered by Factory Act, to units with 40 or more high speed, partially or fully automatic and even shuttle less loom and many technical and organizational features of a modern textile factory. 97 International Journal of Engineering, Science and Mathematics http://www.ijesm.co.in, Email: [email protected] ISSN: 2320-0294Impact Factor: 6.765 Table 1- Cloth Production by Powerlooms Year Total Production on Percentage of Percentage Increase over Production Powerlooms Powerlooms over previous year Total cloth production Total Powerloom Production Production 2008-09 54,996 33,648 61.22% -- -- 2009-10 60,333 36,997 61.29% 9.76% 9.95% 2010-11 62,559 38,015 60.77% 3.69% 2.75% 2011-12 60,453 37,445 61.94% (-)3.37% (-)1.50% 2012-13 62,792 38,038 60.57% 3.87% 1.58% 2013-14 63,500 36,790 57.93% 1.12% (-)3.28% 2014-15 65,276 37,749 57.83% 2.79% 2.60% 2015-16 65,505 36,984 56.78% 0.35% (-)2.02% 2016-17 28,034 15,638 -- -- -- (Apr-Aug-P) *Source - Annual Report 2016-2017 (up to Aug 17), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, P.89. Table 2- Year wise Growth in Number of Powerlooms Installed - Year No. of Powerlooms Growth Percentage 2006-07 19,90,308 -- 2007-08 21,06,370 5.8% 2008-09 22,05,352 4.7% 2009-10 22,46,474 1.9% 2010-11 22,82,744 1.61% 2011-12 22,98,377 0.68% 2012-13 23,47,249 2.12% 2013-14 2367594 0.86 2014-15 2447837 3.39 2015-16 2522477 3.05 2016-17 2574522 -- *Source - Annual Report 2016-2017, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, P 88. Powerlooms are good at weaving long sheets as they can be woven continuously, at high speeds with long stretches of warp. Changing warp is a costly affair with high speed looms. The level of technology of this sector varies from obsolete plain looms to high-tech shuttle less looms. There are about 1, 50,000 shuttle less looms in this sector. It is estimated that more than 75% of these looms are outdated with a vintage of over 15 years and have virtually no process or quality control devices/ attachments. However there has been a significant increase in the technology level of the powerloom sector during last 10 years. The estimated number of powerlooms in the decentralized sector in the country till 31.10.2016 was 25, 74,522. Table 2 shows the recent growth in the powerloom sector. The decentralized powerloom sector is one of the most important segments of the Indian Textile Industry in terms of fabric production and employment generation. It provides employment to 64.36 Lakh persons and contributes 62% of total cloth production in the country. More than 60% of fabric meant for export is also sourced from powerloom sector. The readymade garments and home textiles are heavily dependent on the powerloom sector to meet their fabric requirements. Reasons for emergence of Powerloom Sector- There are contending views on the origin and growth of powerlooms in India. The report of the Powerloom Enquiry Committee (1964) found evidence to suggest that the powerlooms were first set up in 1904 in Ichalkaranji in Maharashtra when Jagirdaars of that place encouraged weavers to install powerlooms and thereby, improve their standard of living. 98 International Journal of Engineering, Science and Mathematics http://www.ijesm.co.in, Email: [email protected] ISSN: 2320-0294Impact Factor: 6.765 * Source- Artisans and Industrialization - Tirthankar Roy (1993), pp.136-137. The most concise and interesting discussion on the origin of powerlooms is depicted in one the chapters entitled ‘Patterns in the evolution of India’s textile industry, in Leadbeater (1993). His field visits and extensive interviews with mill owners point to the fact that composite mill managements have financed the growth of powerlooms to circumvent excise duty. The crux of the discussion with one of the persons interviewed is that Bombay mill owners sponsored powerloom owners in order to circumvent Ahmadabad’s monopoly in the production of dhotis and sarees. Thus the emergence of the powerloom sector is also the result of a lack of consensus among mill owners in terms of augmenting a united position with respect to the government policy. Dipak Mazumdar’s (1984) as well as Kasthuri Sreenivasan’s (1984) studies on the Indian textile industry echoes the same view of the mill sector’s contribution to the growth of the powerlooms. They opine that from the beginning of the century, handloom weavers bought their second hand non-automatic powerlooms from the mills. It is also pointed out by Sreenivasan that powerloom weavers were more likely to be former mill hands that had better expertise than handloom weavers. It is also pointed out by many researches (Sreenivashulu, L.C Jain, Leadbeater, Mridul Eapen, Chandrashekhar.) that considering powerlooms on par with handlooms as a decentralized sector and reserving products for both together was one of the reasons for the growth of the powerloom sector. Tirthankar Roy’s (1998) in an article on the powerloom industry in India disputes the view that the growth of powerlooms was mainly a distortion created by government policy. He interprets the growth as a pattern of industrialization founded on an unlimited supply of low quality labor, developing systems of inter firm co-ordination, agglomerations based on such systems, and 99 International Journal of Engineering, Science and Mathematics http://www.ijesm.co.in, Email: [email protected] ISSN: 2320-0294Impact Factor: 6.765 continuous accumulation of capital ‘from below’ in artisanal activities in the past and in modern small scale industry and agriculture more recently. In another article, Tirthankar Roy’s (1999) describe the origin and present condition of the industry in an export oriented region; its major handicaps, how it addresses its handicaps and what kind of policy initiative may be needed to deal with them. It suggests that some recent changes in the organization and technology in the industry can be seen as attempts to deal with these weaknesses. Supriya Roy Chowdhary’s (2000) analysis of the role of the powerlooms in silk weaving in Karnataka has been undertaken in the context of the existence of remarkable heterogeneity in the structure of capital, forms of organization and scale of organization in the powerloom sector. The paper examines the role of state policy with regard to powerlooms, dynamics of the relations of production, and the political implications of the diversity of interests and capital associated with this sector in two selected areas in Karnataka- Dodhbollpur and Anekal.
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