Illustrated Regulations for Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the 皇朝禮器圖式 ca. 1780-81 or later. Album; ink, color on silk; 44.1 x 45.2 cm. Mactaggart Art Collection 2004.19.1 Chapter 6, Imperial Hats and Robes, Part 3: Court dress for the Empress Dowager and Empress 卷六，冠服三

The Ministry of Board of Rites produced a manuscript copy in 1756. In 1759 the Qianlong Emperor ordered the book to be edited and expanded, and published at the imperial press (the Wuyingdian), which resulted in the print version published in 1766. The book was then revised a second time for inclusion in the imperial encyclopedia Siku quanshu (Complete Books of the Four Treasuries), completed in 1796, and expanded from 18 to 28 chapters (juan).

Margaret Medley suggests that several fair copies of the illustrated album existed. It appears that these included only the original 18 chapters. The illustrated chapters on court costume for the imperial dowager and empresses in the Mactaggart Collection were viewed by the Qianlong emperor in or sometime after 1780-81 (and possibly date to that year), as indicated by his seal “Seal of the Son of Heaven Enjoying the Happiness of Having Five Generations under One Roof in His Seventies.” A second seal, the Yuanmingyuan seal, as well as the leather-bound gold-stamped box in which the album was stored (the title of which says “Costume of the Court of the Chinese Emperor Ch’ien Lung: The Original Paintings from the Summer Palace, Pekin, 18th Cent.”), indicate that the album most probably was kept in the Summer Palace (Yiheyuan), close to the Yuanmingyuan, until 1860.

There are six sections in the 18 volumes: • ritual vessels (bronzes, jade, porcelain, lacquered wood) caiqi 蔡器 (2 volumes); • astronomical instruments to determine auspicious dates for ceremonies and festivals yiqi 儀器 (1 volume); • hats and robes guanfu 冠服 (4 volumes; the Mactaggart Art Collection includes 1 of these 4 volumes); • musical instruments yueqi 樂器 (3 volumes); • imperial household insignia lubu 鹵簿 (3 volumes); • military uniforms and weapons wuqi 武器 (5 volumes).

The preface, attributed to the emperor, reads in part:

We, [accordingly], have followed the old traditions of our dynasty and have not dared to change them, fearing that later men would hold us responsible for this, and criticize us regarding the robes and hats; and thus we would offend our ancestors. This we certainly should not do. Moreover, as for the Northern Wei, the Liao, the Jin as well as the Yuan, all of which changed to Chinese robes and hats, they all died out within one generation. Those of Our sons and grandsons who would take Our will as their will shall certainly not be deceived by idle talk. In this way the continuing Mandate of our dynasty will receive the protection of Heaven for ten thousand years. Do not change our traditions or reject them. Beware! Take warning! (The Manchu Dragon, 14)

Imperial seals on pale blue, gold spangled end papers (2):

1

A. Wufu wudai tang gu xi tianzi bao 五褔五代堂古稀天子寶 (square intaglio) Treasure of the Son of Heaven Enjoying the Happiness of Having Five Generations under One Roof in His Seventies B. Yuanmingyuan bao 圓明園寶 (square intaglio) Treasure of the Yuanmingyuan Garden of Perfect Brightness album leafs: 1。 皇太后，皇后冬朝冠 Winter court hat chaoguan for the Empress Dowager and Empress

謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后冬朝冠，董貂為之，上綴朱緯。頂三層，貫東珠各一，皆承以金鳳, 飾東珠各三，珍珠各十七，上銜大東珠一。朱緯上週綴金鳳七，飾東珠各九，貓睛 石各一，珍珠各二十一。後金翟一，飾貓睛石一，小珍珠十六。翟尾垂珠，五行二 就，共珍珠三百有二，每行大珍珠一。中間金銜青金石結一，飾東珠，珍珠各六， 末綴珊瑚。冠後擭領垂明黃條二，末綴寶石，青緞為帶。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The winter hat of the Empress Dowager and Empress is made of sable fur, adorned above with rows of red floss silk tassels. There are three levels to the finial on top, each level separated by one eastern pearl [a freshwater pearl from Songhuajiang 松花江 Manchuria, also called “northern pearls”] supported by one golden phoenix (which are themselves each adorned with three eastern pearls, and 17 precious pearls), and the finial top is a great eastern pearl. The red floss silk tassels above are adorned with golden phoenix, seven in number, ornamented with nine eastern pearls apiece, and one cat’s eye stone [topaz] each [for the phoenix body], and pearls, 21 each [for the phoenix tail feathers]. [At the back of the hat] there is a long-tailed pheasant [an inverted gourd-shaped flap of fur], ornamented with one cat’s eye stone, and 16 small gems. The pheasant tail trails in pearls arranged in five strands and two registers, totalling 302. Each strand [of pearls] has one large pearl. At the center is a plaque made of gold-inlaid lapis lazuli from which hangs an eastern pearl and six precious pearls, with coral beads at the ends. At the back of the hat where it meets the collar trail two bright yellow ribbons, adorned with precious gems, and a sash of blue satin. imperial seal: C. Qianlong yulan zhi bao 乾隆御覽之寶 (oval relief)

2。 皇太后，皇后夏朝冠 Summer court hat chaoguan for the Empress Dowager and Empress

謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后夏朝冠， 青絨為之，餘俱如冬朝冠。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty:

2 The summer court hat of the Empress Dowager and Empress is made of blue velvet, and other ornamentation is like that on the winter court hat.

3。 皇太后，皇后金約 Golden diadem jinyue for the Empress Dowager and Empress

謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后金約，鏤金雲十三，鈽東珠各一，間以青金石，紅片金裏。後繫金銜 緑松石結，貫珠下垂，五行三就，共珍珠三百二十四，每行大珍珠一。中間金銜青 金石結二，每具飾東珠，珍珠各八，末綴珊瑚。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The golden diadem of the Empress Dowager and Empress is engraved with thirteen golden clouds, each ornamented with one eastern pearl, and with blue stones interspersed with golden stones and an [interior] red band that has gold [design] on the facing. At the back is a golden plaque inlaid with spaced green turquoise stones, from which pearls trail down in five strings and in three registers. Altogether there are 324 pearls, each string threaded with a large pearl. At the center there are ornaments of gold, lapis lazuli and precious gems that are combined in a knot, and each knot is decorated with eight eastern pearls and eight gems apiece, the ends adorned in coral.

4。皇太后，皇后耳飾 Drop earrings ershi for the Empress Dowager and Empress

謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后耳飾，左右各三，每具金龍銜一等東珠各二。皇貴妃，貴妃，妃，嬪 皆同。其東珠，皇貴妃，貴妃以二等，妃以三等，嬪以四等。皇太子妃亦同，珠以 二等。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The drop earrings of the Empress Dowager and the Empress are to be three to each ear, each earring with two first class eastern pearls held in the mouth of a golden dragon. The first-rank imperial consort, the imperial consort, the ordinary imperial concubines and ladies in waiting all have the same design. As for their eastern pearls, the imperial consorts have second class pearls, the concubines the third, and nobility the fourth. The earrings of the imperial consort of the imperial heir apparent are the same, with pearls of the second class.

5。 皇太后，皇后朝褂一 Court vest chaogua (1) for the Empress Dowager and Empress

謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后朝褂，色用石青，片金緣，繡文前後立龍各二，下通襞積，四層相間， 上為正龍各四，下為萬福萬壽。領後垂明黃縧，其飾珠寶惟宜。皇貴妃，皇太子妃 皆同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The court vest of the Empress Dowager and Empress is azure blue in color, with bands of gold trim at the borders and an embroidered pattern [at the top] on front and back of two

3 standing dragons. The pleated skirt has four alternating registers. There are four frontally placed dragons in the first and third register while the second and fourth register have the characters for prosperity wanfu and bat patterns for long life wanshou. At the back of the collar trail bright yellow ribbons, adorned with pearls and gems as fitting. The vest of the imperial consort and the consort of the imperial heir apparent is the same.

6。 皇太后，皇后朝褂二 Court vest chaogua (2) for the Empress Dowager and Empress

謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后朝褂， 色用石青，片金緣。繡文前後正龍各一，要帷行龍四，中有 襞積。下幅行龍八。 領後垂明黃縧，其飾珠寶惟宜。緞，紗，單 ，袷各以其時。 皇貴妃，皇太子妃皆同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The court vest of the Empress Dowager and Empress is the color of azure blue, with bands of gold trim at the borders, and an embroidered pattern on front and back of one standing dragon, with four moving dragons lying horizontally at the waist sash and an attached pleated skirt. At the bottom hem there are eight moving dragons lying horizontally. At the back of the collar trail bright yellow ribbons adorned with pearls and gems as fitting. Satin, gauze, lined and unlined garments are worn according to the season. The court vest of the imperial consort and the imperial heir apparent’s consort is the same.

7。 皇太后，皇后朝褂三 Court vest chaogua (3) for the Empress Dowager and Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后朝褂， 色用石青，片金緣。繡文前後立龍各二。中無襞積。下幅八 寶平水。 領後垂明黃縧，其飾珠寶惟宜。緞，紗，單 ，袷各以其時。 皇貴妃，皇 太子妃皆同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The court vest of the Empress Dowager and Empress is the color of azure blue, with bands of gold trim at the borders, and an embroidered pattern on front and back of two standing dragons. It does not have a matching pleated skirt. At the bottom hem there is the design “eight treasures, level waters” [babao pingshui, the name of a pattern imitating mountains and rivers]. At the back of the collar trail bright yellow ribbons, adorned with pearls and gems as fitting. Satin, gauze, lined and unlined garments are worn according to the season. The court vest of the imperial consort and that of the imperial heir apparent’s consort is the same.

8。 皇太后，皇后冬朝袍一 Winter court robe chaopao (1) for the Empress Dowager and the Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后冬朝袍， 色用明黃，披領及袖俱石青，片金加貂緣， 肩上下襲朝褂 處亦加緣。繡文金龍九，間以五色雲。 中無襞積。下幅八寶平水。 披領行龍二， 袖端正龍各一，袖相接處行龍各二。領後垂明黃縧，其飾珠寶惟宜。 皇貴妃同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty:

4 The winter robes of the Empress Dowager and Empress are bright yellow in color, with azure-colored sleeves and draped collar that has golden bands trimmed with sable fur. On both sides of the shoulders where a court short vest is draped over, trims [in the form of epaulets] are added. There is an embroidered pattern of nine golden dragons spaced by five- color clouds. There will not be a pleated skirt. At the bottom hem there is a pattern of “eight treasures, level waters” [babao pingshui, the name of a pattern imitating mountains and rivers]. There are two moving dragons lying horizontally embroidered on the flared shoulder collar piling and one front-facing dragon on the cuff of each sleeve, and two moving dragons at the place the two sleeves are attached to the body of the robe. At the back of the collar there are trailing bright yellow ribbons, adorned with pearls and gems as fitting. The first-rank imperial consort will have the same design.

9。 皇太后，皇后冬朝袍二 Winter court robe chaopao (2) for the Empress Dowager and the Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后冬朝袍， 色用明黃，披領及袖俱石青，片金加海龍緣, 肩上下襲朝褂 處亦加緣。繡文前後正龍各一，兩肩行龍各一，要帷[sic]行龍四。 中有襞積。下幅 行龍八。領後垂明黃縧，其飾珠寶惟宜。 餘俱如前。皇貴妃同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The winter robes of the Empress Dowager and Empress are bright yellow in color, with the flared shoulder collar piling and sleeves that are azure blue in color with golden bands trimmed with seal fur. On both sides of the shoulders where a short court robe is draped over, trims [in the form of epaulets] are added. On the front and back there is a front-facing dragon, on the two shoulders one moving dragon each, and at the waist there are four moving dragons lying horizontally. There will be an attached pleated skirt. At the bottom hem there are eight moving dragons. At the back of the collar there are trailing bright yellow ribbons, adorned with pearls and gems as fitting. Other ornamentation is like that of the first winter court robe. The first-rank imperial consort will have the same design.

10。 皇太后，皇后冬朝袍三 Winter court robe chaopao (3) for the Empress Dowager and the Empress

謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后冬朝袍， 色用明黃， 片金加海龍緣， 中無襞積。裾後開。 餘俱如前。 皇貴妃同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The winter robes of the Empress Dowager and Empress are bright yellow in color with golden bands trimmed with seal fur. There will not be an attached pleated skirt. There is a split [in the center of the skirt] at the back. Other ornamentation is like that of the second winter court robe. The first-rank imperial consort will have the same design.

11。 皇太后，皇后夏朝袍一 Summer court robe chaopao (1) for the Empress Dowager and the Empress 謹按，本朝定制：

5 皇太后，皇后夏朝袍， 色用明黃， 片金緣。 中有襞積。緞，紗，單，袷各惟其時， 餘俱如冬朝袍一。皇貴妃同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The summer court robes of the Empress Dowager and Empress are bright yellow in color with golden bands as trim at the borders. There will be a pleated skirt. Satin, gauze, unlined and lined garments will be worn according to the season. The rest of the ornamentation is like the first winter court robes. The first-rank imperial consort will have the same design.

12。 皇太后，皇后夏朝袍二 Summer court robe chaopao (2) for the Empress Dowager and the Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后夏朝袍， 色用明黃， 片金緣。 中無襞積。 裾後開 。緞，紗，單， 袷各惟其時， 餘俱如冬朝袍一。皇貴妃同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The summer court robes of the Empress Dowager and Empress are bright yellow in color with golden bands as trim. There will not be a pleated skirt. There is a split [in the center of the skirt] at the back. Satin, gauze, unlined and lined garments will be worn according to the season, and the rest of the ornamentation is like the first winter court robes. The first-rank imperial consort will have the same design.

13。 皇太后，皇后領約 Jeweled collar lingyue of the Empress Dowager and Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后領約， 鏤金為之，飾東珠十一，間以珊瑚。兩端垂明黃縧二，中各 貫珊瑚，末綴緑松石各二。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The jeweled collar lingyue of the Empress Dowager and Empress is engraved gold decorated with eleven eastern pearls spaced by coral. There are two bright yellow dangling bands at the center which are strung with coral beads, and the ends are adorned with two green turquoise stones.

14。 皇太后，皇后朝珠 Beaded court necklace chaozhu of the Empress Dowager and Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后朝服， 御朝珠三盤：東珠一，珊瑚二。吉服朝珠一盤，珍寶隨所御。 佛頭，記念，背雲，大小墜珠寶雜飾惟其一宜。縧皆明黃色。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: With formal court chaofu dress, the Empress Dowager and Empress wear three strings of imperial court beads: one made of Eastern pearl, and two of coral. With the informal jifu robes they wear one string of beads: precious gems following the preferences of the court. It would be best if the buddha head, for commemoration, the back of clouds, big pendant, and

6 small pendants can all be the same color and luster. The ribbon for all is bright yellow in color.

15。 皇太后，皇后彩帨 Multicolour kerchief pendants caiyue of the Empress Dowager and Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后彩帨，緑色， 繡文為《五穀豐登 》。佩箴管，鞶袠之屬。縧皆明黃 色 。皇貴妃，皇太子妃皆同。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The multicolor kerchief pendants of the Empress Dowager and the Empress have an embroidered pattern called “Abundant Harvest of the Five Grains” (wugu fengdeng) on a green ground. Things like needle cases and purses [i.e., symbols of female virtue] are hung on the kerchief. The ribbons all are a bright yellow color. The [design for] the imperial consorts of the emperor and consorts of the the imperial heir apparent are the same.

16。 皇太后，皇后冬朝裙 Winter court skirt chaoqun for the Empress Dowager and the Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后冬朝裙， 片金加海龍緣， 上用紅織金壽字緞，下石青行龍妝緞，皆 正幅。有襞積。 皇貴妃，貴妃，妃，嬪皆同。皇太子妃亦同 。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The winter court skirts of the Empress Dowager and Empress are adorned with bands of gold on which seal fur is added. Above there is red brocade embroidered in gold with the character for “long life;” below azure blue moving dragons on satin, all facing forward. There is a pleated skirt. The [design] for the imperial consorts of the emperor, the imperial concubines, the concubines and the consorts are all the same. The design for the consort of the imperial heir apparent is also the same.

17。 皇太后，皇后夏朝裙 Summer court skirt chaoqun for the Empress Dowager and the Empress 謹按，本朝定制： 皇太后，皇后夏朝裙， 片金緣， 緞，紗各惟其時，餘俱如冬朝裙。text from missing album leaf, recorded in the woodblock printed book: 皇貴妃，貴妃，妃，嬪皆 同。皇太子妃亦同 。

In accordance with the decree of the present dynasty: The summer court skirt for the Empress Dowager and the Empress has bands of gold embroidery, satin, and gauze, each appropriate to the season; everything else is like the winter skirt.

The rest of this particular chapter (juan) in the set would have been dedicated to the clothing of the imperial concubines, but is missing from the Mactaggart set. Additional regulations in the following chapters would have detailed the costumes of lower ranks of court women,

7 from the wives of the nobility to the wives of officials in the civil service (the ninth grade in rank).

Also of interest: duplicate pages in the Mactaggart set probably came from the government boards in the capital, such as the Board of Civil Office, which would have had full copies of the chapters on the costumes.

Museum collections: Beijing National Museum (full set), Beijing Palace Museum, Royal Museum of Edinburgh, Victoria & Albert Museum (the emperor’s dress, ritual vessels, the heir apparent’s military uniforms and weapons), the National Museum of Ireland

Bibliography: Berger, Patricia. “Ritual.” In China: The Three Emperors, 1662-1795. Eds. Evelyn Rawski and Jessica Rawson, 118-21. London: Royal Academy of Arts, 2005.

Bray, Francesca, Vera Dorofeeva-Lichtmann, and Georges Métailié, editors. Graphics and Text in the Production of Technical Knowledge in China: The Warp and the Weft. Sinica Leidensia, vol. 79. Leiden: E. J. Brill, 2007.

Bray, Francesca. Technology and Gender: Fabrics of Power in Late Imperial China. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1997. HQ 1768 B72 1997

Brown, Claudia. Weaving China’s Past: The Amy S. Clague Collection of Chinese Textiles. Hong Kong: Phoenix Art Museum, 2000.

Burnham, H.B. Chinese Velvets: A Technical Study. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1959. Cammann, Schuyler. “Birds and Animals as Ming and Ch’ing Badges of Rank.” Arts of Asia (May–June 1991). _____. “Chinese Squares: A brief catalog of the Letcher Collection. University Museum Bulletin 17, no. 3 (1953).

_____. “Costume in China, 1644-1911.” Philadelphia Museum of Art Bulletin 75, no. 326 (Autumn 1979): 3-19.

_____. “Development of the Mandarin Square.” Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies 8, no. 2 (1944): 71-130.

_____. “Embroidery Techniques in Old China.” Archives of the Chinese Art Society of America vol. 16 (1962): 6-40.

_____. “The Making of Dragon Robes.” T'oung Pao, Second Series, vol. 40, Livr. 4/5 (1951): 297-321.

_____. “A Robe of the Ch’ien-lung Emperor.” The Journal of the Walters Art Gallery vol. 10 (1947): 8-19.

8 Chang Shana 常沙娜, ed. Zhongguo zhixiu fushi quanji 中國織繡服飾全集 [Corpus of Chinese Fabric, Embroidery, and Finery]. 5 vols. Beijing: Xinhua shudian, 2004.

Chen Juanjuan 陳娟娟. Zhongguo zhixiu fushi lunji 中國織繡服飾論集 Beijing: Zijincheng chubanshe, 2005.

Chung, Young Yang. Silken Threads: A History of Embroidery in China, , Japan, and Vietnam. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 2005. NK9272 C48 2005

_____. The Art of Oriental Embroidery: History, Aesthetics and Techniques. New York: Bell and Hyman, 1979.

_____. The Art of Oriental Embroidery. New York: Scribner, 1980. NK 9272 C48 2005.

Dickinson, Gary, and Linda Wifflesworth. Imperial Wardrobe. Rev. Ed. Berkeley, Toronto: Ten Speed Press, 1990. GT 1755 C6 D53 2000 folio

Finnane, Antonia. Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation. New York: Columbia University Press, 2008. GT 1555 F56 2008

_____. Dress, Sex and Text in Chinese Culture. Clayton, Australia: Monash Asia Institute, 1999. HQ 1767 D74 1999

Gao, Chunming. Chinese Dress and Adornment through the Ages: The Art of Classic Fashion. Cypi Press.

Gao Chunming 高春明. Zhongguo chuantong zhixiu wenyang 中國傳統織繡紋樣. Shanghai: Shanghai shuhua chubanshe, 2005.

Gao, Hanyu. Chinese Textile Designs. London: Penguin Books, 1992.

Harada Yoshito 原田淑人. Zhongguo fuzhuangshi yanjiu 中國服裝史研究 [Research on Chinese Dress]. Tr. Chang Renxia, Guo Shufen, Su Zhaoxiang. Hefei: Huangshan shushe, 1988. GT1555.H25 1988

Hua Mei 华梅。Zhongguo fushi 中国服饰. Beijing: Wuzhou chuanbo chubanshe, 2004.

Hua, Mei. . Tr. Yu Hong and Zhang Lei. Beijing: China Intercontinental Press, 2004. GT 1555.H8313 2004

Jacobsen, Robert D. Imperial Silks: Ch’ing Dynasty Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. 2 vols. Hong Kong: Pressroom Printer, 2000.

Jiang Bing 江冰. Zhonghua fushi wenhua 中華服飾文化 [Dress culture in China] [Taiyuan shi]: Shanxi ren min chu ban she, [1991]. GT1555 J53 1991

9 Kuhn, Dieter. “Textile Technology: Spinning and Reeling.” In Science and Civilization in China. Vol 5, part IV. Ed. Joseph Needham. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1988. DS 721 N37 v.5 pt.4

Kwan, Winnie, et. al. Heaven’s Embroidered Cloths: One Thousand Years of Chinese Textiles. Hong Kong: Urban Council of Hong Kong, 1995.

Li, Lillian M. China’s Silk Trade: Traditional Industry in the Modern World, 1842-1937. Cambridge, MA and London: Harvard University Press, 1981. HD9926 C62.L69 1981

Lin Shuxin 林淑心. Yijin xing – Zhongguo fushishi xiangguan zhi yanjiu 衣錦行－中國服飾史相 關之研究 [The History of Chinese Textiles, Costumes, and Accessories]. Taipei: Guoli lishi bowuguan, 1995. GT1555.L55 1995

Lorentz, H.A.. A View of Chinese Rugs from the Seventeenth to the Twentieth Century. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1972. ISBN. 0 7100 6912 x

Mailey, Jean. Embroidery of Imperial China. New York: China Institute in America, 1978. NK 9283 A1 M22 1978

Medley, Margaret. The Illustrated Regulations for Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the Ch’ing Dynasty. London: Hanshan tang, 1982. DS 754.14 M44 1982

Priest, Alan. Costumes from the Forbidden City. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1945. NK 4783 P44 N56 1974

Rossabi, Morris. “Behind the Silk Screen: Movements of Weavers in Asia, Seventh to Fourteenth Centuries.” Orientations 29, no. 3 (March 1998): 84-9.

Rutherford, Judith, and Jackie Menzies, eds. Celestial Silks: Chinese Religious and Court Textiles. Sydney: Art Gallery of New South Wales, 2004.

Rutherford, Judith, et. al. Elegance of the Qing court: reflections of a dynasty through its art. Omaha: Joslyn Art Museum, 2008. NK 1068 J593 2008

Schäfer, Dagmar and Dieter Kuhn. Weaving an Economic Pattern in Ming Times (1368-1644): The Production of Silk Weaves in the State-Owned Silk Workshops. Heidelberg: Edition Forum, 2002.

Scott, A.C. Chinese Costume in Transition. Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Tokyo: Donald Moore, 1958. GT1555.S42

Shan Guoqiang 单国强, ed. Gugong bowuyuan cang wenwu zhenpin quanji 52: Zhishi shuhua 故宮 博物院藏文物珍品全集52：織繡書畫 [The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace 52: Embroidered calligraphy and pictures]. Hong Kong: The Commercial Press, 2005. Shen Congwen 沈從文. Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu 中國古代服飾研究 [A Study of Premodern Chinese Dress]. Hong Kong: Shangwu yinshu guan, 1992.

10 Shih, Minhsiung. The Silk Industry in Ch’ing China. Tr. Sun Eduzen. Michigan Abstracts of Chinese and Japanese Works on Chinese History, no. 5. Ann Arbor, 1976. HD 9926 C62 S55 E5 1976

Steele, Valerie, and John S. Major, eds. China Chic: East Meets West. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, c1999. GT 1555 S8 1999

Sun Ji 孙机. Zhongguo gu yufu luncong 中國古奧服論叢 [Collection of Essays on Ancient Chinese Dress and Carriages]. Beijing: Wenwu chubanshe, 2001.

Sung Ying-hsing. Tiangong kaiwu 天工開物：Chinese Technology in the Seventeenth Century. Tr. E- tu Sun and Shiou-chuan Sun. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1966.

Vainker, S.J. Chinese Silk: A Cultural History. New Jersey: Rutgers University Press, 2004. TS 1655 C6 V35 2004

Vollmer, John. Celebrating virtue: prestige costume and fabrics of late imperial China. Toronto: Textile Museum of Canada, 2000. NK 4783 A1 V637 2000

_____. Decoding Dragons, Status Garments in Ch’ing Dynasty China. Eugene: University of Oregon Museum of Art, 1983. GT 1555 V917 1983

_____. Dressed to Rule: 18th-Century Court Attire in the Mactaggart Art Collection. Edmonton: University of Alberta Museums, 2007. GT 1755 C5 M32 2007

_____. “An Evening with Sandy and Cécile Mactaggart, Discussing their Chinese Textile Collection.” Orientations 36, no. 8 (2005): 84-7.

_____. Five Colours of the Universe: Clothes and Fabrics from the Ch’ing Dynasty. Edmonton: Edmonton Art Gallery, 1980. NK 4783 A1 E24 1980

_____. In the Presence of the Dragon Throne: Ch’ing Dynasty Costume in the Royal Ontario Museum. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977. GT 1555 V92 1977

_____. Silks for thrones and altars: Chinese costumes and textiles: from the Liao through the Qing dynasty. Paris: Myrna Myers, [2003]. NK 8883 A1 V65 2003

_____, ed. Textiles as primary sources: proceedings of the first Symposium of the Textile Society of America, Minneapolis Institute of Art, September 16-18 1988. St. Paul, Minn.: Textile Society of America, 1988. TS 1760 T355 1988

Vollmer, John, and Jacqueline Simcox. Emblems of Empire: Selections from the Mactaggart Art Collection. Edmonton: University of Alberta Art Museums, 2009. N 7343.5 V89 2009

Watt, James CY, ed. When Silk was Gold. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1997.

11 Wilson, Verity. Chinese Dress. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1986. GT 1555 L847 1990

_____. Chinese Textiles. London: V & A; New York: Distributed in North America by Harry N. Abrams, 2005. NK 8884 A1 W44 2005

Wong, Hwei Lian and San Tan, eds. Power Dressing: Textiles for Rulers and Priests from the Chris Hall Collection. Singapore: Asian Civilizations Museum, 2006.

Yan Yong, Fang Hongjun, 严勇, 房宏俊 eds. Tianchao yiguan: Gugong Bowuyuan cang Qingdai gongting fushi jingpinzhan 天朝衣冠：故宮博物院藏清代宮廷服飾精品展 [The Splendors of Imperial Costume: Qing Court Attire from the Palace Museum]. Beijing: Palace Museum, 2008.

Zang, Yingchun. Chinese Traditional Costumes and Ornaments. Tr. Li Zhurun, Wang Dehua, and Gu Yingchen. Beijing: China Intercontinental Press, 2003.

Zhang Qiong 張琼 ed. Gugong bowuyuan cang wenwu zhenpin quanji 51: Qingdai gongting fushi 故宮 博物院藏文物珍品全集51：清代宮廷服飾 [The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace 51: Costumes and Accessories of Emperors and Empresses of the Qing Dynasty]. Hong Kong: The Commercial Press, 2005.

Zhao Feng 赵丰. Zhongguo sichou tongshi 中國絲綢通史 [A General History of Chinese Silk]. Suzhou: Suzhou daxue chubanshe, 2005. HD 9926 C62 Z62 2005 folio

Zhao, Feng, and Yu Zhiyong, eds. Treasures in Silk: An Illustrated History of Chinese Textiles. Hong Kong: ISAT/Costume Squad, Ltd., 1999.

Zhao Xiuzhen 赵秀珍, ed. Beijing wenwu jingcui daxi: Zhixiu juan 北京文物精粹大系: 织绣卷 [Gems of Beijing cultural relics series: Textiles and embroidery]. Beijing: Beijing chubanshe, 2001.

Zhou, Xun and Gao, Chunming. 5000 Years of Chinese Costumes. The Commercial Press, Hong Kong, 1987. ISBN. 9620750551

Zhou Xun and Gao Chuming 周汛，高春明. Zhongguo fushi wuqian nian 中國服飾五千年 [Five Thousand Years of Chinese Costume]. Shanghai: Xuelin chubanshe, 1984. GT 1555 F565 1987

_____. Zhongguo lidai funü zhuang shi 中國歷代 婦女裝飾. Xianggang: Sanlian shudian (Xianggang) youxian gong si; [Shanghai]: Shanghai xuelin chubanshe, 1988. GT 1555 C54 1988 folio

_____. Zhongguo lidai fushi 中国历代服饰。 [Shanghai]: Xuelin chubanshe, [1983 or 1984]。 GT 1555 C55 1984 folio

12 Zong Fengying 宗鳳英 ed. Gugong bowuyuan cang wenwu zhenpin quanji 50: Ming Qing zhixiu 故 宮博物院藏文物珍品全集50：明清織繡 [The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace 50: Textiles and Embroideries of the Ming and Qing Dynasties]. Hong Kong: The Commercial Press, 2005.

Zong, Fengying. Heavenly Splendour: The Edrina Collection of Ming and Qing Imperial Costumes. Hong Kong: University of Hong Kong Art Museum, 2009.

13