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MARCH 2020 L Civiltà Dellatavola ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA N

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MARCH 2020 L Civiltà Dellatavola ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA N MARCH 2020 l CIVILTÀ DELLATAVOLA ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA N. 324 INTERNATIONAL EDITION ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA ISTITUZIONE CULTURALE DELLA REPUBBLICA ITALIANA FONDATA NEL 1953 DA ORIO VERGANI www.accademia1953.it CIVILTÀ DELLA TAVOLA CIVILTÀ N. 324, MARCH 2020 Table of contents CIVILTÀ DELLATAVOLA ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA INTERNATIONAL EDITION MARCH 2020 / N. 324 Focus of the President EDITOR IN CHIEF PAOLO PETRONI 2 The will to start again COPY EDITOR with renewed vigour SILVIA DE LORENZO (Paolo Petroni) LAYOUT SIMONA MONGIU L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA TRANSLATOR è stata fondata nel 1953 da Orio Vergani ANTONIA FRASER FUJINAGA e da Luigi Bertett, Dino Buzzati Traverso, Cesare Chiodi, Giannino Citterio, Ernesto Donà THIS ISSUE INCLUDES ARTICLES BY dalle Rose, Michele Guido Franci, Gianni Mazzocchi MAURIZIA DEBIAGGI, Bastoni, Arnoldo Mondadori, Attilio Nava, GIGI PADOVANI, Arturo Orvieto, Severino Pagani, Aldo Passante, PAOLO PETRONI, Gian Luigi Ponti, Giò Ponti, Dino Villani, ROBERTO ZOTTAR. Edoardo Visconti di Modrone, con Massimo Alberini e Vincenzo Buonassisi. Current Events l Lifestyle l PHOTO CREDITS ADOBE STOCK. Society vvv 3 I travel, therefore I eat PUBLISHER (Gigi Padovani) ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA VIA NAPO TORRIANI 31 - 20124 MILANO TEL. 02 66987018 - FAX 02 66987008 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] WWW.ACCADEMIA1953.IT vvv MONTHLY MAGAZINE REG. N. 4049 - 29-5-1956 TRIBUNALE DI MILANO Traditions l History Lenten ‘lean’ eating 6 (Roberto Zottar) REGULATIONS REGARDING PERSONAL DATA PROTECTION The Italian Academy of Cuisine, in its capacity as data controller, hereby informs its members that On the cover: Graphic elaboration of a detail of their personal data are handled with respect for Two Girls (1913) by August Macke, Städel Museum, Territories l Tourism l Folklore the principles of integrity, lawfulness and tran- sparency as well as protection of privacy and Frankfurt am Main, Germany members’ rights, to implement the management In Singapore, culinary traditions of the member-association relationship as deline- 8 ated by the Association’s Statute and By-laws, and step up to the plate for any related purposes where applicable. The (Maurizia Debiaggi) processing is carried out by authorised parties, in paper and computerised form, in compliance with the provisions of the aforementioned EU regulations and current national legislation. To view all the information provided under EU regu- lations, and in particular to learn what members’ rights are, please visit the Association’s website. Rivista associata all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana Focus of the President The will to start again with renewed vigour by Paolo Petroni President of the Accademia During the last century, between 1918 and 1920, 50 to 100 This state of affairs will end. million people perished, including 600 thousand in Italy. More Let us wait patiently. recently, in the post-war period there was the Asian ‘flu in 1957, with 30 thousand casualties in Italy, and the Hong Kong ‘flu in 1968 (also called ‘space ‘flu’ in Italy), with 13 million infected people in Italy and 20,000 victims. And then there were SARS, Ebola, and swine and avian ‘flu. Regarding avian ‘flu or ‘bird ‘flu’, the WHO had predicted at least a million deaths, but ear Academicians, the issue of Civiltà della Tavola notwithstanding experts’ comparisons with Spanish ‘flu, its that you are now reading was made possible by the victims numbered in the hundreds. Many of us are old enough Ddedication and professional abilities of our editorial to remember the events of ’68-’69 to varying degrees, including office, graphic specialists and Milan secretariat, who used ‘smart many political and cultural upheavals, but without the media working’ - flexibility in time and space - to send the magazine, frenzy of today; yet over 20 thousand people died then. Life complete in every detail, to the printers and thence the postal today is accorded more value than before, but still greater is and courier services. This has contributed substantially the importance given to the press, television, the internet and to a sense of togetherness among Academicians. The politics. In 1957, when there were 30 thousand dead, the daily forthcoming issues will be progressively slimmer, alas, due to La Stampa ran the headlines “A mild influenza sows terror” the nearly total absence of Academic activity, which has ground and “They call it a national disaster, while overlooking 10,000 to a halt in Italy, China and many other parts of the world. annual road fatalities”. This pandemic is having harsh Many enthusiastic participants will flock and unexpected effects to our convivial gatherings This pandemic is having harsh, far-reaching and unexpected For the record, fatal road accidents have now fallen to barely effects on all group activity as well as many types of over 3,000, while deaths for any reason are around 1,800 daily. businesses, with sometimes dire consequences. We draw This depressing mortuary panorama only confirms that this little comfort by remembering that the 14th-century the Black state of affairs will end. This is an era of vigorous interventions Death caused over 20 million casualties in Europe and that and strong safeguards for individuals. Let us wait patiently. the ghastly upheaval was followed by the Renaissance. But it Restaurants await, chomping at the bit; many enthusiasts behoves us to recall that this famous Plague in 1630, known will flock to our convivial gatherings. Our Delegates who strain in Italy as ‘Manzonian’ because it was described in Manzoni’s at the brakes can’t wait to take off again with renewed vigour. The Betrothed, had over a million victims just in northern Italy. Long live the Italian Academy of Cuisine! Page 2 Current Events l Lifestyle l Society I travel, therefore I eat by Gigi Padovani Honorary Academician for Torino Lingotto 72% of tourists seek n life we require diversions, distrac- experts, Garibaldi analysed both the tions, “change of fashion, food, love gastro-tourism potential within Italy and gastronomic I and landscape”. So said the greatest the motives of those who enjoy visiting travel writer, the Briton Bruce Chatwin, new countries. The collaborators pre- experiences. who added: “We need them as the air sented 735 pages of data and analysis, we breathe”. This is confirmed by recent first at the BIT travel exhibition in Milan research: “72% of leisure travellers want and then at the Food Journalism Festival ‘memorable’ food experiences. Further- recently held in Turin. more, 53% of travellers worldwide de- clare themselves wine and food tourists”. These are the results of the interesting Our country attracts increasingly Rapporto sul Turismo Enogastronomico numerous gourmet visitors Italiano (Report on Italian Food and Wine Tourism) edited by Roberta Garibaldi, who teaches Tourism Management at The study has identified our country’s the University of Bergamo. possible tourist magnets: “Excellent Roberta Garibaldi Collaborating with other international products, restaurants, agri-tourism, Page 3 all of which are the foundations of good ricultural tourism enterprises authorised and healthy cooking”. What are the as restaurant, lodging and tasting ser- main reasons for travelling to Italy? vices”. According to the report, half of all trav- ellers name excellent food and wine among their motives. Our nation is first Italy boasts 117 food-related in Europe for Geographical Indication museums honouring (GI - 2019 data) products, with an im- local food specialities pressive tally of 825, followed by France (687 specialities) and Spain (334). There is also another mark of quality, perhaps Food is also culture. There are 117 mu- not yet known to ‘gastro-nomads’: Pro- seums in Italy which honour typical dotti Agroalimentari Tradizionali (Tradi- foods of their territories, against 111 in tional Agrifood Products), established France and 95 in Spain. They are gen- by Italy’s regional governments, num- erally small exhibitions - Emilia Ro- bering 5,155 (as of March 2019). Cam- magna seems to have the best-equipped food-related museums, wineries, pania, with 531 PAT, has the most, fol- network of them - and it is interesting breweries, oil producers, and Wine lowed by Tuscany (461) and Latium (428). to note that 68% of Italian tourists wish and Flavour Itineraries”. This gourmet Between macarons (as the French often to visit a national food and wine mu- heritage attracts increasingly numerous call Michelin stars), chef’s hats, forks and seum. Furthermore, Italy, like France, foodies. This was already noticed in 1854 the temples awarded to the Italian Acad- takes its place on the European podi- by Giovanni Vialardi, cook to the House emy of Cuisine’s ‘Good Tables’, high-qual- um with five food-related entries, of Savoy in Turin, who described Italy ity restaurants are truly abundant. both material and intangible, includ- thus in the preface to his Trattato di cuci- Quality and quantity, for there are 283 ed in UNESCO’s World Heritage list: the na, pasticceria moderna, credenza e rela- thousand active restaurant enterprises Langhe, Roero and Monferrato wine tiva confettureria (Treatise on cooking, in Italy: another European first place. Our countries; head-trained bush vine culti- modern pastries, pantries and associated agriturismi or ‘agri-tourism’ locations vation of Zibibbo grapes in Pantelleria; conserves): “No other region in the world (how many are ‘genuine’ and how many the art of the Neapolitan pizza masters; is so favoured by heaven for supremacy only present themselves as such is not, the Prosecco Hills of Conegliano and in the culinary arts: here there are excel- however, revealed by the study) are Valdobbiadene; and the Mediterranean lent meats, quality poultry, flavoursome unique, because in Spain, France, Ger- Diet (transnational). In addition, Alba, game, delectable fish both of salt and many and Britain there are no similar Parma and Bergamo have each obtained fresh water, delicious legumes, beaute- enterprises capable of “offering multiple the title of UNESCO Creative City of Gas- ous fruits, the finest oils, and cheeses services, with the exception of lodgings, tronomy.
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