page 38 BANK ON IT SWEET TALKERS Listen up to alternative sugars, Listen up to page 20 ON THE MARK SUMMER NEVER ENDS Get set to go longer with peaches, Get set to page 12

OUT OFAFRICA

NO PASSPORT REQUIRED KEEP THE SEASON PLAY IN

FRAME FREEZE West Africa can connect to any menu, to can connect Africa West

FOOD FANATICS FREEZE FRAME SUMMER 2020 page 38 BANK ON IT SWEET TALKERS Listen up to alternative sugars,

PLAY IT COOL ice cream hand, page 28 cream ice Out of the ordinary wins the SUMMER NEVER ENDS

leaving town, page 12

Menu inspiration without ever

NO PASSPORT REQUIRED PORTUGAL HOME AT IN PLACE BRINGING GLOBALBRINGING MENUS HOME TRAVEL TRAVEL

FOOD FANATICS TRAVEL IN PLACE SUMMER 2020 ON THE COVER Ice cream can extend summer like no other food, especially eaten outdoors or as pints TM to-go. Just be sure to offer anything but the ordinary, like pastry chef Logan Atkinson’s roasted banana caramel on page 33. LATE SUMMER 2020

Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success

NO TRAVEL REQUIRED BANK ON IT NOW LIGHTER, PORTUGAL AT HOME SWEET TALKERS Menu inspiration can come without Listen up to alternative sweeteners. ever leaving town. 38 4 FLUFFIER & UP YOUR TAKEOUT GAME OUT OF AFRICA Your livelihood depends on it. The bold and familiar of West Africa 46 TASTIER THAN can connect to any menu. 12 TREND TRACKER Check out what’s on the radar, on high alert and fading out. EVER SUMMER NEVER ENDS 50 ON THE MARK I’LL DRINK TO THAT! Get set to go with peaches until Boost takeout sales with New and improved the season ends. orange wine. 20 52 TM Pillsbury Golden PLAY IT COOL BY THE NUMBERS Out of the ordinary wins Top it off with on-trend the ice cream hand. burger fillings. Buttermilk Baked 28 54 Biscuits PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVA KOLENKO EVA BY PHOTOGRAPHY



 at www.generalmillscf.com USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 1 Travel in Place

USFoods.com/foodfanatics This issue is dedicated to the food trends that can help you get ahead

US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD in tough times. You may be working harder than ever to stay afl oat, but President and Chief Executive Officer you can’t forget about having a competitive menu that attracts diners. Pietro Satriano In our ‘new normal’, the way to get diners through your doors, whether Chief Merchandising Officer Andrew Iacobucci for off-premise or dine-in, is to wow them with a menu that’s worth Senior Vice President, Marketing leaving home for. Diane Hund

Vice President, Creative August and September are typically slow months for many Jovo Balach restaurants and food service operations, but this year there is new Manager, Content Marketing Jasmine Jones opportunity to capitalize on consumers looking to venture out after months of lockdown. CHEF CONTRIBUTORS Jeremy Bevins, Charlotte, NC Miles Boggio, Everett, WA To kick this book off, we bring global inspiration home. With international Erin Gonzalez, Minneapolis, MN Leigh Holland, Altoona, PA travel largely off the table this year, making global fl avors the star of your menu is sure to attract customers with an unsatisfi ed wanderlust. In this issue, we bring Portugal and West Africa to you, to help build a fl avor-packed menu go seasonal.

Next up, we focus on never-ending summer. Peaches and stone PUBLISHING PARTNER fruit are in season well into September and are a great addition to Feedback a late summer menu. Paired with recipes that diners aren’t likely to We welcome your comments. Content Chief prepare at home, we give tips on how to package seasonal dishes for Laura Yee Contact Food Fanatics at: [email protected] off-premise to make your menu work harder. We also discuss ice cream, Creative Director Contact Bite This Media at: Joline Rivera [email protected] but not just your typical vanilla/chocolate/strawberry. Unconventional

Managing Editor Unless otherwise specified, all fl avor pairings peak curiosity and boost revenue. We give fi ve fl avors Peter Gianopulos correspondence sent to Food Fanatics is assumed for publication Contributing Writers that are sure to be menu stars and increase check averages. and becomes the copyright Kate Bernot property of US Foods. Alexis Fisher Amber Gibson Advertising Information The back half of this issue is all about profi tability on the menu. Blair Hopkins For rates and a media kit, contact Jasmine Jones, (847) 720-2578 or As Americans begin to return to somewhat normal schedules, their Copy Editor email Jasmine.Jones@usfoods. Natalie Jew com. pre-quarantine dietary needs are returning as well. In ‘Sweet Talkers,’

Cover Photography Food Fanatics is the go-to source we discuss the growing trend of alternative sweeteners, how to use Eva Kolenko for the foodservice industry and anyone truly passionate about them in existing menu items, and how to tell the story on your menu for Photographers food, food people and improving Eva Kolenko the bottom line. Issued quarterly higher profi ts. In the spirit of creating a menu that peaks diner interest, Frank Lawlor and hand-delivered to readers, Shelly Waldman the magazine is a US Foods we close with stories on orange wine and trending burger toppings. publication produced by Bite Food Stylist This Media. Alcohol to-go is growing in popularity nationwide, and orange wine Adam Pearson For more information on the Food Fanatics program, visit options are a great way to attract adventurous drinkers. We also Prop Stylist USFoods.com/foodfanatics. Natasha Kolenko All rights reserved. © explore burger toppings that have recently exploded in popularity to help you build a more profi table burger.

About US Foods Until next issue, on behalf of everyone at US Foods®, we are proud US Foods is one of America’s great food companies and a leading foodservice distributor, partnering with approximately 300,000 chefs, restaurateurs and foodservice operators to help their businesses succeed. With nearly 28,000 employees and to support this resilient industry! more than 70 locations, US Foods provides its customers with a broad and innovative food offering and a comprehensive suite of e-commerce, technology and business solutions. US Foods is headquartered in Rosemont, IL., and generates approximately $28 billion in annual revenue. Visit usfoods.com to learn more. Thanks for reading and stay safe,

9300 W. Higgins Rd. Suite 500 Andrew Iacobucci Rosemont, IL 60018 (847) 720-8000 Chief Merchandising Offi cer usfoods.com US Foods ◃ No Required Travel Portugal

Get inspired without leaving town

By Amber Gibson Photography by Eva Kolenko Food styling by Adam Pearson Prop styling by Natasha Kolenko

Two dishes from one ingredient saves on labor during the uncertainty of the coronavirus. The base for Summer Acorda (see page 10) is provided by the leftover broth from at Home neck bones (see page 7).

4 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 Braising liquid from the neck bones is used to make Summer Acorda, pictured on page 10.

. Nonessential “It’s a perfectly clean mackerel confit in All the Fish in the Sea piri piri-infused olive oil,” he says. “They travel and During two visits to Portugal in 2019, add some pickled vegetables—carrots, Marcos Campos, executive chef at Porto in onions and peppers—to add a touch of closed borders Chicago, sampled an impressive array of acidity to cut through the fattiness of the don’t apply seafood offerings rarely found in the U.S. mackerel.” Campos’ conservas are served Although there’s plenty of grilled, steamed straight up with crostini, a rarity that has to menus. and deep-fried options, local diners also helped him stand out. The essence and flavors of another country crave lamprey eels marinated in vinegar can come by way of ingredients—just and blood and bread-based seafood stews Bring in the Tin as they always have pre-pandemic. But like acorda de lavagante made with Food inspiration It’s telling that Portuguese chefs revere the perhaps that’s more important now than poached eggs, lobster, shrimp and cod. from Portugal simple sardine. Even chefs like Eric Banh, ever as a way to inspire servers to sell and Yet cracking open tins of seafood who arrived in Portugal with an aversion customers to order. conserva—preserved fish packed in olive In Matosinhos to them, fly home as born-again converts. Take Portugal, which is a having oil or marinades—proved especially Marcos Campos “These were plump and packed in high- a culinary moment. It’s a natural memorable. recommends the açorda de quality olive oil, and I fell in love with the progression. America’s fondness for At a time when American diners are lavagante, a bread-based humble little fish,” says the Vietnamese- Italian led to further exploration of the down with seafood small plates, conservas seafood soup made with born Banh, who tired of them after eating Mediterranean, then Spain and most have become open-and-serve novelties. lobster and lamprey. unending quantities at a refugee camp in recently, the Middle East and Israel. Their brininess inspires beer and cocktail Malaysia on his way to Canada. Portugal’s Iberian coastline gives orders. Their handsome tins make for In Porto Because his restaurants Monsoon and rise to its seafood-rich cuisine, unique memorable presentations. And their Tony Gemignani enjoyed Ba Bar in Seattle and other locations are Ze Manel dos Ossos Place all ingredients in a large stock pot and small plates and whole-animal approach versatility allows for simple or elaborate baked bacalao,dried and either temporarily closed or operating (Neck Bones with add cold water, covering the contents by to cooking, making the food familiar preparations for dine-in or takeout. salted cod; malasadas, fluffy at 50 percent for dining in, the menu is Parsley Orange Sauce) 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a and alluring. Campos and Bonhomme Hospitality doughnuts; and molotof, a streamlined for fewer items. But when Chef David Santos gentle simmer, skimming any scum or foam Chefs are expressing such inspiration at continue to pave the way with another Portuguese meringue-like flan. sardines rotate in, they’re served the Um Segredo Supper Club, New York City that surfaces. Season broth and gently new restaurants, including Suzanne Goin Iberian Peninsula-focused restaurant— Portuguese traditional way on cornbread simmer 2 to 3 hours until meat is just tender. who, despite the pandemic, is scheduled Mama Delia—which recently opened in In Coimbra or as a riff on banh mi with Chinese 4 to 5 pounds pork neck bones to open Caldo Verde in Los Angeles Chicago. It includes 60 outdoor seats, David Santos went wild for sausage on a baguette. He also adds ½ bottle Portuguese white table wine Remove the bones; reserve broth for around late fall. Like other restaurants, allowing for social distancing and an the wild boar feijoada sardines to fried rice for their distinctive 2 onions, quartered Summer Acorda. See recipe on page 17. she faced challenges but has been ultramarino (Spanish for neighborhood stew and ossos—braised umami flavor. 3 large carrots, cut into 3-inch pieces determined to open with a menu inspired gourmet market) offering foods he meaty pork bones. 4 stalks of celery, cut into 3-inch pieces At service, sear and brown neck bones in oil by travel before coronavirus. sampled in Portugal, such as the seafood A Head-to-Tail Way of Life 15 whole cloves garlic, peeled and serve with parsley orange sauce. “The restaurants I went to in Portugal conservas. At Porto, Campos serves In Lisbon David Santos of Um Segredo Supper Club 3 fresh bay leaves served perfectly fresh fish and seafood, 15 different conservas made by Minerva, Suzanne Goin sampled veal in New York vividly remembers helping his 10 sprigs of thyme To make parsley orange sauce: Combine whatever was available, and much of it a Portuguese company that’s been croquettes and clams with Portuguese uncle, who was a pig farmer, 1 tablespoon coarse ground pepper 2 cups parsley leaves, ¼ cup olive oil, perfectly grilled, so we are applying that preserving fish, such as zamburinas and garlic and olive oil and jamon choose a pig to slaughter for the first time Salt to taste 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1 clove same mentality,” says Goin, whose menu mussels in escabeche, the same way for pata negra carved tableside. at age 8. “While the men prepared for Oil for searing chopped garlic, zest of 1 orange, juice of half plans to showcase grilled fish, Portuguese nearly a century. His offerings run the slaughter, the women prepared the rice for Parsley orange sauce, recipe follows an orange and salt and pepper to taste in a sausages and other inspirations from the gamut from spicy tuna to his favorite: the morcilla along with all the aromatics food processor. Puree on high for 1 to Iberian coast. mackerel in olive oil with pickles. and spices needed.” 2 minutes. Makes 5 servings.

6 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 7 Amp up pizza fandom, Portugal style, by swapping Italian sausage for chourico and port for balsamic before crowning it with a Portuguese cheese. See page 10 for the recipe.

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TABASCO Pepper Sauce Packets 3017183 10013000714102 3 g 200 HEINZ Sweet Relish Packets 9009218 10013000531808 9 g 200 HEINZ Malt Vinegar Packets 4063616 10013000533604 9 g 200 HEINZ Marinara Sauce Cups 5297460 10013000529300 2 oz 60 HEINZ Tartar Sauce Packets 1009224 10013000531600 12 g 200 For more products and recipe development, HEINZ Salsa Cups 4380630 10013000528402 2 oz 60 8 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanaticscheck out our | KraftFOOD Heinz FANATICS Foodservice 9 website: REALEMON Lemon Juice Packets 3096161 716037311803 4 g 200 www.KraftHeinz-Foodservice.com ©2020 H.J. Heinz Company Brands, LLC At Um Segredo, he boils pig heads to make soups and stews. Then, the ears Portuguese Staples and snout are grilled and marinated with raw garlic, parsley, vinegar and olive oil. Piri piri: A chili-rich spice, marinade and flavor agent The result is pig’s head salad and pork that’s beloved on chicken and countless proteins. neck bones platters (ossos). Bacalao: This dried and salted cod, often used in The braising liquid is saved to cook croquettes, can add briny salt and umami flavors to other meats and vegetables or as a base stews and rice dishes. for stews. Make sales Canela: A cinnamon used to season meats and poultry, often in an allspice blend with paprika, crushed bay leaf, Snacking Portuguese-Style cumin, crushed dried chili pepper and turmeric. American chefs can vary their small plate offerings by studying petiscos, Portugal’s Papo secos: Portuguese bread rolls—crusty exterior, answer to tapas. Portuguese snacks range soft interior—can redefine a sandwich list. from smoked swordfish and dried cod to Tremocos: These brined beans are sold as a salty bar chickpea salads and salgados, bite-sized snack or mixed with rice. fried pastries and croquettes, which often cooler include a stuffed deep-fried choux pastry called rissois. REACH OUT TO YOUR PEPSICO REPRESENTATIVE There’s also Portuguese charcuterie, Summer Acorda Porto Pizza TODAY TO REQUEST A such as garlicky linguica, flour-filled (Bread Soup with Egg) Chef Tony Gemignani ® farinheira, or chourico, Portugal’s Chef David Santos Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, San Francisco paprika-heavy chorizo. Or defy Um Segredo Supper Club, New York City FREE SABRA convention as LaSalette in Sonoma, 16 to 18 ounces port, preferably Croft California, does with ground chourico to ½ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling 8 ounces mayonnaise coat day-boat scallops instead of bacon. 2 cups onion, diced medium 9 to 12 ounces pizza dough COOLER Portuguese sheep-milk cheeses— 4 cloves garlic, chopped 7 ounces whole milk mozzarella cheese AND 6 CASES OF ® azeitao, nisa or estrella—typically 1 cup red peppers, diced 6 thin slices ready to eat Portuguese or FREE SABRA PRODUCT* are not cooked with, but that didn’t 1 teaspoon ground coriander Spanish chourico stop Santos who has served salt cod 1 pinch of chili flakes or a drizzle of Smoked fleur de sel mezzaluna (half-moon shaped stuffed piri piri chili oil 2 to 3 ounces nduja, preferably Tempesta pasta) with a Serra de Estrella emulsion. 3 cups ripe tomatoes, diced ¼ cup each microgreens, Bulls Blood The same goes for Tony Gemignani, 2 quarts pork bone stock & arugula owner of Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in (from neck bone recipe) Smoked salt, as needed IN refrigerated DIPS San Francisco, who discovered 2 cups stale bread, ground 1 ounce shaved Topo Sao Jorge Cheese # 1 Cooler dimensions: Portuguese cheeses in Portugal last Salt and pepper to taste 18 7/8”w x 10 1/8”d x 31 7/8”h year. His Porto pizza is topped with 4 eggs, poached Reduce port to a glaze by heating it over mozzarella, chourico and a port wine Cilantro leaves, as desired medium heat in a small sauce pan; cool. Whisk reduction. Shaved Topo Sao Jorge cheese 2 ounces of reduced port into mayonnaise and Don’t have counter space? is applied after it’s cooked. “It’s similar In a pan, heat olive oil and saute onions and transfer to a squirt bottle. Place remaining port AVG. growth in Sabra snackeRS % 1 to an Italian piave cheese meets Asiago garlic over medium-high heat until lightly reduction in another squirt bottle. after a cooler is placed We can help with a pedestal! or Parmigiano,” Gemignani explains. browned. Add peppers, coriander +50 “Topo Sao Jorge is sweet, nutty and it’s and chili flakes (or piri piri chili oil) and saute Shape and stretch dough into a 12-inch circle. perfect for finishing on pizza, salads and 2 minutes more to soften. Add tomatoes and Add mozzarella leaving a ¼-inch border. Bake USF CS * DESCRIPTION charcuterie boards.” cook for 5 minutes. Add pork stock and bring in a 900 F heated oven until desired crispiness. ASYS # QTY/SIZE Since Santos temporarily closed to a simmer. Slice into 6 pieces and place onto a serving 654293 Sabra® Hummus Classic Non-Dairy Ref w/ Pretzel Crisp 12/4.56oz. his restaurant because of the pandemic, plate. Quickly pinch nduja into dime-size 654269 Sabra® Hummus Roasted Red Pepper Non-Dairy Ref w/ Pretzel Crisp 12/4.56oz. he’s been cooking private dinners Add breadcrumbs, stir and simmer a few pieces and place evenly. Lay one slice of of Cooler placements were 654301 Sabra® Hummus Garlic Roasted Non-Dairy Ref w/ Pretzel Crisp 12/4.56oz. and thinking of how Portugal will minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Divide chourico on each slice. Add both microgreens 1 influence the next concept. “Like so soup into 4 bowls and top each with a poached and smoked salt. Using a cheese plane shave first-time sabra buyers 5343456 Sabra® Guacamole/Tostitos® Grab n' Go 12/2.82oz.

23% ® many others I can’t wait to go back to egg. Drizzle liberally with olive oil and garnish the cheese. Drizzle the port reduction and 6196311 Sabra Avocado Toast Grab n' Go 8/2.71oz. Portugal again.” n with cilantro. Makes 4 servings. cream in a spiral motion. Makes 6 servings. 1570610 Sabra® Taco Hummus Grab n' Go 48/2oz. 3750270 Sabra® Hummus Plain SS Cup Ref Classic Simple 48/2oz. 2 10 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 Refrigerated snack USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 11 1 2 solutions are growing Sources: Frito-Lay® sales 2019 Mintel The Future of Fresh 2018 73% *Check your local Division for product availability ©2020 Sabra Dipping Company, LLC The bold and the familiar of West Africa OUT OF can connect AFRICA to any menu By Kate Bernot Photography by Eva Kolenko Food styling by Adam Pearson Prop styling by Natasha Kolenko

Ingredients, such as cassava, opposite page top left, clockwise, shito, crayfish powder, yassa and spiced meats, are part of the West 12 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 African playbook. USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 13 West African- inspired plantain pancake wraps deliver a sweet, spicy crunch. At a time when Plantain Pancakes with capturing diner Crispy Chicken, Yassa interest cannot be underscored, the Sauce and Habanero Honey familiar yet enticing flavors of West Inspired by Chef Ope Amosu Add remaining milk slowly for desired African are ready to deliver. ChopnBlok, Houston consistency, adding more if needed so that The food of Nigeria, Ghana, Senegal batter is runny but not thin. and Cameroon—countries that make up 2½ cups flour, divided use the region—rank second on the National ½ teaspoon baking powder Heat flat top on medium heat and add butter to Restaurant Association’s list of hot 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided use coat. Pour batter desired size, allow to bubble global flavors, while Pinterest searches 2 overripe plantains, pureed and flip. grew 311 percent in 2019. As racial 4 eggs, divided use unrest continues and demands to better 2½ cups whole milk Combine remaining 1½ cup flour and cassava understand indigenous foods play out, it’s 1 teaspoon vanilla extract flour, spices and remaining salt in a bowl; likely interest will grow even greater. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil set aside. Halve thighs or trim into individual At its core, the region’s use of ancient Butter, as needed pieces similar to pancake size. Dip chicken into grains, wood-fire cooking and complex ½ cup cassava flour remaining eggs, beaten, and then coat well in spices appeal to today’s diners. 1 tablespoon grains of paradise, ground flour mixture. Fry in oil heated to 350 F until “I see a wider appeal for West African 1 tablespoon hot smoked paprika nicely browned, about 10 minutes; drain. food in the U.S., simply because the food 1 tablespoon ground cumin is all-natural, and that’s the direction 2 teaspoons onion powder Spread yassa sauce on a pancake, top with 1 America is going,” says Simileoluwa 1 tablespoon garlic powder piece chicken and drizzle with honey. Adebajo, owner of Eko Kitchen in San 1½ pounds boneless chicken thighs Francisco, who has been serving free Oil, for frying To make yassa sauce: Sweat 2 cups chopped meals to the homeless, elderly and Yassa sauce, recipe follows onion in 2 tablespoons olive oil on medium COVID-19 patients during the pandemic Habanero honey, as needed heat with 2 teaspoons minced ginger, 2 minced before losing the restaurant in a fire that garlic cloves and ½ chopped habanero chili she has already vowed to rebuild. “People Combine 1 cup flour with baking powder and until soft. Cool, transfer to a food processor, want whole foods and gluten-free foods. ¼ teaspoon salt. Whisk together plantains, add juice of 1 small lemon and salt to taste. We hardly cook with flour or processed 2 eggs, 2 cups of milk and vanilla. While Puree until smooth and slowly add 1 cup foods. Everything is fresh.” whisking, add oil and beat until light and fluffy. flavorless oil. Makes 2 cups sauce.

RICE INGRAINED Jollof rice is a foundation of West African cuisine, a grain in a variety of dishes across the region. Eric Adjepong, who appeared on Bravo’s “Top Chef” last year, JOLLOF RICE TAKES MANY FORMS, WHETHER refers to the friendly competition between HARD-BOILED LONG-GRAIN RICE FROM NIGERIA, West African countries over who creates OR SHORTER-GRAINED KERNELS FROM GHANA. the best jollof dishes as the “Jollof Wars.” In Nigeria, jollof rice is long-grained and hard-boiled. In Ghana, it’s shorter-grained and spiced with nutmeg and clove. Despite these differences, it’s typically seasoned with onion, tomato and chili pepper. Adjepong likens it to Asian curry—a shared dish with many permutations. Jollof rice has become an entry point for chefs and diners to explore West African cuisine. Adebajo’s bestseller Eko plate pairs grilled chicken, plantains and jollof rice

14 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 15 “NIGERIAN FOOD IS VERY SOULFUL.” —Simileoluwa Adebajo of Eko Kitchen, San Francisco

Four West African Flavors to Explore

Fufu: Pounded, starchy plants like cassava, yams or plantains are mixed with water and formed into small doughy balls, which are Multipurpose Shito dipped into sauces, peanut soup or Chef Eric Adjepong fish stews. Pinch & Plate, Washington, D.C.

Sobolo/Zoborodo: This sweetened 250 mL vegetable oil hibiscus drink, beloved in Ghana 5 medium onions and Nigeria, is made with orange 60 grams garlic with a Nigerian roasted pepper sauce called actress/comedian Yvonne Orji to run a peel, pineapple, cinnamon, ginger 60 grams ginger, peeled obe ata dindin, a smoky blend of roasted Jollof Drop in conjunction with the debut and lemon. The tart, slightly sweet 350 grams dried shrimp powder chili peppers, ginger, garlic, dried Cameroon of her HBO stand-up comedy special, drink is similar to agua de Jamaica, 200 grams cayenne pepper peppers crawfish powder and other Nigerian which was a hit,” says Amosu, adding that a beloved Mexican “iced tea.” 100 grams crayfish powder spices. The spice has become so beloved the partnership has expanded the food 90 grams tomato paste that Eko Kitchen expects to bottle it. and culture to a wider audience. Shito: A dried-pepper condiment 15 grams nutmeg “Nigerian food is very soulful and very Options included his Motherland Bowl, a made of dried shrimp powder, dried 15 grams aniseed unapologetic in the use of bold flavors.” marrying of East and West African flavors, crayfish, chilies and garlic, re- Kosher salt, to taste that combine Ethiopian-inspired yellow rehydrated with tomato paste and THE NEW QUINOA curry, Nigerian oloyin beans (similar crushed tomato and reduced until Heat oil over medium-high heat for West African fonio, an ancient grain to black-eyed peas), coconut milk and dark and paste-like. It adds umami 4 minutes. packed with amino acids, vitamin B and plantains, served with rice and vegetables. and heat to rice and stews, or can zinc, is poised to become a “super grain.” be mixed with amber honey as a Meanwhile, in a food processor, puree Nutrient-dense and gluten-free, it can be A DIFFERENT SIDE OF BARBECUE marinade for skewered beef. onions, garlic and ginger. Add puree to pot subbed in for farro or quinoa. Smoke and wood-fired cooking plays an and saute until raw flavors are fully cooked Chef Ope Amosu had planned to important role in West African cuisine, Puff puff: This Nigerian fried out, about 20 minutes. transition from a pop-up to a brick-and- especially dishes from Northern Nigeria, doughnut, often topped with mortar, fast casual concept based on where spicy grilled-meat skewers called powdered sugar, is similar to Add shrimp powder, cayenne, crayfish customizable grain and rice bowls, but the suya are popular roadside snacks. Thin a beignet but made with a less powder and tomato paste, stirring pandemic steered him into a direction: strips of meat or fish are coated in a viscous batter. constantly. Season with salt and anise nationwide delivery of select signature peanut-heavy blend of dried spices chilies, seeds. Makes about 16 ounces. Serve with menu items. “We recently partnered with ginger, paprika and salt. WALDMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHELLY grilled meat.

16 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 17 Meaty ayamase sauce is served with rice and plantains at Eko Kitchen.

No matter how you enjoy biscuits, one thing’s certain:

At Eko Kitchen, one of Adebajo’s best- Grandma’s Ayamase Sauce sellers is a Yoruba dish called asun: grilled with Rice and Plantains Place meats in a pot with enough water to they’re or roasted goat meat in a red pepper sauce Chef/owner Simileoluwa Adebajo cover with half an onion, 1 seasoning cube, that’s stir-fried, then simmered and served Eko Kitchen, San Francisco curry, thyme and ginger powder and salt to with Japanese yams and fried plantains. taste. Simmer one hour. Drain and reserve. 1½ to 3 pounds chopped assorted meats, such delicious CREATIVE CROSSOVERS, EXPLORED as beef, tripe and kidneys Heat palm oil over medium heat covered, The spice-forward foundations of West 1 large onion, coarsely chopped, divided use 10 minutes; hold 5 minutes. Oil should be African cuisine play well with Mexican 2 African or chicken seasoning cubes brownish. Add locust beans and remaining all ways. and South American flavors. “I got to San ½ tablespoon curry powder onion. Simmer, about 3 minutes or until the Francisco and realized that Mexican food ½ tablespoon thyme onions start to crisp. is basically Nigerian food but in a different ½ tablespoon ginger powder social context,” says Adebajo, who also Salt to taste Add meats to the pot to fry until slightly brown offers special AfroLatin mash-up menus. 1½ cup unrefined red palm oil, divided use and crispy, about 10 minutes. Add peppers Chopnblok’s Amosu found a similar 2 tablespoons iru, fermented locust beans reserved cooking liquid and remaining with ™ recipe connection in Houston, where his Nigerian 2 or 3 large green bell peppers, chopped seasoning cube. Simmer about 30 minutes. ideas that are great for      meat pies are mistaken for empanadas. 1 jalapeno, coarsely chopped One taste, however, due to the merging 1 habanero, coarsely chopped Add crayfish powder, cover and simmer 15 to of traditional spices, including ginger, ¼ cup of ground crayfish powder 20 minutes longer. Palm oil floats to the top bouillon, and fresh garlic added to the Long-grain rice, cooked, as needed of the sauce when it’s ready. Serve with white meat and they’re purely West African n Plantains, sliced, fried and seasoned rice and plantains.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHELLY WALDMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHELLY   at www.generalmillscf.com 18 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 ◃ Summer Ends Never Fleeting seasonal produce takes on new meaning when the future of restaurants remain uncertain. Its presence on menus brings familiarity and a sense of normalcy, which is more than enough reason to play out an item like peaches until the very end, usually late September. Because peaches taste as good as they look, with a balance of acidity and a firmness that only exists seasonally, the fruit is worth investing in, whether rk to support local farmers or take time a to get creative. M Peaches pack a sweet punch that can work in virtually any dish, especially when amped up with techniques like e grilling to impart smoke, pickling to bump up the acidity, or using fermentation to make a sweet and sour sauce. h “They adapt to savory and sweet t applications,” says Gregory James, executive chef at Inn at Perry Cabin in St.

Michaels, Maryland, which has launched three private water view concepts since the initial pandemic closures. “They can n By Alexis Fischer be used in salads, entrees, desserts, hors Photography by Eva Kolenko d’oeuvres—just about any meal.”

Food styling by Adam Pearson

Here are five menu ideas that work for O Prop styling by Natasha Kolenko dining in and takeout. Negroni Poached Peaches Halve, pit and place peaches cut-side down Pastry Chef Alisha Ivey in the pan and cover with parchment. Simmer Negroni Poached Peaches with Il Solito, Portland, Oregon for 5 minutes. Flip peaches so that they Blackberry Sorbetto, Oat Crumble are evenly coated. Remove from heat when Get set » Who: Alisha Ivey, chef at Il Solito, 1½ cups gin easily pierced. to go Portland, Oregon 1½ cups Campari » Why it works: The peach adds 1½ cups sweet vermouth Grill peaches to mark and serve with whipped with sweetness to the classic combination and 1 cup agave cream, crumble and sorbetto if using. Drizzle peaches plays well with the earthy flavors of gin 2 vanilla beans remaining poaching liquid on top for additional and bitterness of the Campari. Poaching 1 lemon, zested flavor. Makes 8 servings. until the intensifies the flavor and helps control the 1 orange, zested season texture, as peaches come in at different ½ cup water To make crumble: In a food processor, combine ripeness stages. Keep the poaching liquid 4 semi-ripe peaches 1 cup flour, ½ cup brown sugar, ¾ cup rolled ends at a gentle simmer so that it doesn’t Crumble, recipe follows oats, 4 ounces cubed cold butter, ½ teaspoon overcook the fruit and scorch the flavors. Whipped cream, as needed baking powder, ½ teaspoon cinnamon and While sorbetto or any frozen component is Blackberry sorbetto, if desired ¼ teaspoon kosher salt; pulse until ingredients not takeout-friendly, the peaches are and start to clump. Spread mixture onto a can be paired with store-bought ice cream Combine all ingredients, except peaches, parchment-lined baking sheet and bake in a flavors. Just be sure to share suggestions crumble, whipped cream and sorbetto, in 350 F heated oven to for 10 minutes, stir, and online with the menu description. a saucepan; heat until warm. bake until mixture is golden brown.

20 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 21 Peach Scallop Arugula Salad Peach, Scallop and Green Farro Risotto In a medium saucepan, sweat the fennel and » Who: Gabriel Salazar, chef at Sauvage in Arugula Salad with Roasted Peaches onion in 4 tablespoons olive oil until soft. Add Brooklyn, New York Chef Gabriel Salazar Executive chef Tim Graham garlic and chili flakes and cook for 3 more » Why it works: The sweetness of the Sauvage, Brooklyn, New York Nico Osteria, Chicago minutes. Add green farro; stir to combine. peach plays off the natural sweetness and nutty flavor of scallops. It pairs so ¼ cup cabernet sauvignon vinegar 1 fennel bulb, diced small Add chicken broth 2 cups at a time to the green well because the juiciness of the fruit 1 garlic clove, microplaned 1 yellow onion, diced small farro. Stirring constantly. Once the liquid has plays into the honey, the freshness of the 2 teaspoons honey 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, been absorbed, add 2 more cups and continue basil, and the sweet but acidic taste of the Kosher salt, to taste divided use until the chicken broth absorbed. Add lemon vinaigrette. The spicy aspect of the arugula 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced and orange zest; season with salt. and garlic make a great balance. You keep ¼ cup grapeseed oil 1 pinch red chili flakes finding new flavors and textures with each 1 large yellow peach, chopped into 1 quart green farro Halve peaches and slice each half into 6 pieces. bite, which is what this salad is all about, small pieces 4 quarts hot chicken broth Toss with remaining oil and ground black Salazar says. Presentation is important 1½ tablespoons Thai basil, chopped Zest of 1 lemon, grated pepper. Place on a parchment-lined baking even with takeout so consider packing the Flavorless oil for searing, as needed Zest of 1 orange, grated tray and roast in a 350 F heated oven for 6 to greens and vinaigrette separately so the 2 large scallops 4 peaches 8 minutes or until soft. customer can put it together. Freshly ground black pepper, as needed ½ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground Freshly squeezed lemon juice, as needed Place risotto onto 6 plates and top with roasted 2 cups arugula peaches scattered over. Makes 6 servings. ½ cup frisee ½ cup large cherry tomatoes, halved Fennel pollen, as needed

Combine vinegar, garlic, honey and salt in a mixing bowl. Slowly whisk in oils until emulsified. Add peaches and basil; set aside.

Heat saute pan with oil until smoky and sear scallops; season with salt and pepper and squeeze of lemon; quarter. Cool slightly, quarter and toss with greens, cherry tomatoes and dressing. Correct seasonings, plate and sprinkle with fennel pollen. Makes 1 serving.

Green Farro Risotto with Roasted Peaches » Who: Tim Graham, executive chef at Nico Osteria, Chicago » Why it works: Green farro is young farro, making it hard to thresh the husk from the grain. To do this, the farro is set on fire, which gives it an amazing smoky flavor. “It’s truly one of the greatest tastes I know,” says Graham. “This smokiness reminds me of summer grilling season, and during that time of year, nothing is much better than a ripe peach.” The dish also offers a point of differentiation and appeals to protein-focused diners. For takeout, be sure To maximize the integrity of the dish for that the farro risotto has enough liquid to stay takeout, be sure the farro has adequate moist if reheated. liquid for reheating.

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Pair shrimp or any other Get your free sample pack today, grilled protein just scan the code with your phone! with fermented peach sweet- and-sour sauce to extend the fruit’s season. See page 26 for the recipe. Call us today at 866.228.9415 and let us bring only the best to your table. www.villadolcegelato.com 24 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 25 LOOK FOR THE SEAL. To maximize business, extend outdoor dining and seasonal ingredients, such as peaches, through Fermented Peach Sweet- fermentation. and-Sour Sauce with Grilled Prawns Chef Noel Jelfs Chinese Tuxedo, New York

400 grams, about ½ head, shredded napa cabbage 24 grams kosher salt 600 grams, about 5, ripe peaches, pitted and thinly sliced 100 grams ginger, minced 100 grams Holland chili peppers, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon toasted Sichuan peppercorns TREAT YOUR CUSTOMERS 1 tablespoon Korean chili to our XVL Extra-Value Size (2-2.5oz) portfolio 3 garlic cloves 2 star anise with all their brand favorites--it’s what they’re craving! 1 teaspoon garlic powder 100 grams white soy sauce USF Code: 9958983 USF Code: 1475967 USF Code: 3542939 USF Code: 5314451 USF Code: 1951630 200 grams honey 6 U-10 jumbo prawn, peeled, deveined, tail on

Combine cabbage and salt and let sit out 1 hour or longer. Squeeze and crush the cabbage to bruise and release its juice to form a brine solution.

Add peaches, ginger, chilies and spices; massage gently to coat evenly with the brine.

Transfer the mixture to a canning jar, ensuring the mixture is entirely submerged in the brine. Fermented Peach Sweet-and- Using parchment paper, cut a cartouche to Sour Sauce cover the jar and keep submerged by folding NOTE$ FROM » Who: Noel Jelfs, head chef at Chinese a square of paper in half along its diagonals Tuxedo, New York three times. Then, hold the tip of the triangle THE FIELD » Why it works: In a word: versatility. to mark where the edge of the mason jar meets To help farmers impacted When Tuxedo reopens later this summer, the paper. Cut the tip of the triangle off to allow the recipe can be used not only for gasses to escape. Press the cartouche down by the coronavirus peaches but other seasonal produce. over the fermenting mass and very loosely pandemic, some chefs The sauce also can be sold to customers screw the lid jar on. This will allow buildup of are purchasing more who pair it with proteins at home. “Play CO2 to vent. seasonal produce like around with flavors and spices, even the peaches, to preserve, fruits and vegetables used,” Jelfs says. Place in a cool dark place for one week. After “The possibilities are endless. Serve the seventh day, remove star anise, pour the pickle or sell to directly with steamed fish, barbecue chicken legs mixture into a blender and add soy and honey. to customers. or grilled meat. It also pairs well with Blend on high until smooth before straining cilantro and mint, so consider using these through a fine-mesh sieve. fresh herbs when finishing your dish.” Heat grill, brush prawns with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and grill. Brush with USF Code: 2038627 USF Code: 2933296 USF Code: 9658431 USF Code: 774951 USF Code: 3539817 sauce and serve. Makes 3 servings with For more takes on this seasonal stone fruit, go to usfoods.com/peaches leftover sauce. n

Call your Pepsico Foodservice Sales Rep today! 26 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 www.pepsicofoodsfsv.com play it CUP OF SUNSHINE offers an enticing spice combination. See recipe on Unconventional cool page 37. flavors are the winning hand

CHARTREUSE AND RHUBARB SWIRL ICE CREAM softens the sharp flavors of typical boozy ice creams with rhubarb. See recipe on page 33.

By Peter Gianopulos Photography by Eva Kolenko Food styling by Adam Pearson Prop styling by Natasha Kolenko

28 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 29 NASTURTIUM SORBET adds a contrasting dimension to sweets and savory dishes. ▷ No matter the circumstances, or Nasturtium Sorbet POPPY- perhaps because of them, ice cream Chef Jason Fox SEED GELATO helps consumers keep their cool. It’s the ultimate Proper Hotel San Francisco, San Francisco turns the comfort treat, a salve that makes everything classic mentally better, especially during uncertain times. 150 grams nasturtium leaf muffin But consumers aren’t social distancing for vanilla, The Scoop 50 grams spinach leaf flavors into chocolate and cookies and cream. on Beer 800 grams water an ultra- creamy “Everyone wants the unique flavors now,” says 5 grams salt Dark beer ice creams treat. Justin Williams of Rockwell Old Fashioned Ice Pectin simple syrup, recipe follows are the most versatile Cream Co., in Provo, Utah. “People have been Lime juice for spiked desserts, exposed to so many different food cultures and Xanthan gum says Nicole Guini of regional specialties that they expect to see those Avec and formerly flavors in their ice creams. Covid had affected Puree nasturtium and spinach with water and salt. Pass Blackbird in Chicago. business negatively, sales are down due to limited through chinoise. Add pectin simple syrup and measure They pair with both seating. But overall business is good.” brix, to bring to 22 brix. Use 800 grams, a little less than chocolate and coffee, Some 29 percent of consumers—including 46 equal parts of pectin simple syrup. Season mix with lime two staples most percent of 18- to 34-year-olds—say they’re eating juice and salt. Weigh and blend .5 percent xanthan gum, tables can’t resist. more “innovative” ice cream flavor combinations at low speed until slightly thickened. Chill for at least than two years ago, according to a Technomic 4 hours, preferably overnight. Spin in ice cream maker. Floats: Isolate a dessert trend report. Savory and ethnic-inspired savory note in a flavors, dairy-free alternatives and booze-fortified To make pectin simple syrup: Heat 250 grams of water to beloved beer and frozen treats are on a tear at scoop shops, providing 100 F. Add 500 grams sugar and 10 grams apple pectin, make an ice cream opportunities to slip such flavors into more stirring, until boiling. Strain, add 250 grams of ice and chill. out of it—say, rye complex offerings. ice cream—then top “There’s something special about ice cream,” says the scoop with that pastry chef Logan Atkinson of Oak Steakhouse same beer to make a in Raleigh, North Carolina. “No matter how much Milk Chocolate Stout Ice cream boozy float. diners eat for dinner, it’s the one thing they’ll find Pastry chef Nicole Guini room for if you make it fresh and creative.” Avec, Chicago Affogatos: Redefine

the term “iced latte” 900 grams milk by creating a beer- LET THEM EAT CAKES 1,500 mL cream based ice cream—try When Atkinson began creating ice cream cakes for 520 grams sucrose oatmeal stouts—and adults—rather than cloyingly sweet kiddie cakes— 16 grams vanilla paste top it with coffee the big kids cheered. 1,232 mL beer, preferably Begyles Oatmeal foam and oat clusters “I think people are gravitating to ice cream cakes Coffee Stout for a summery take again,” he says, “especially if they embrace local 400 grams glucose powder on an affogato. traditions and flavors.” Atkinson’s take on a baked 40 grams stabilizer Alaska swaps in North Carolina banana pudding 400 grams malted milk powder Sorbets: Ice creams MILK CHOCOLATE ice cream—swirled with salted caramel—then 75 grams NFMP (toasted 3 minutes at 350 F) taste like milked STOUT ICE CREAM surrounds it with two local peanut treats: a peanut 20 grams salt adds a rich deepness to coffee, but sorbets milk made by roasting nuts down into a thin sauce 240 grams yolks a childhood favorite. are for black-coffee and a sweet-spicy peanut crumble spiked with 480 grams Jivara milk chocolate lovers. Think espelette, cinnamon, nutmeg and lemon zest. dark beers, like a “It’s been our biggest seller,” says Atkinson. “We Bring milk, cream, sucrose, vanilla and beer in a chocolate porter sell it for $10, although the food cost is less than a saucepan to a simmer. Combine dry ingredients and sorbet made with dollar per purchase. Ice cream desserts can turn a whisk into mixture. Temper in yolks. Cook to 78 C. Deschutes Brewery’s serious profit if you have a skilled pastry team to Strain over chocolate. Whisk well; chill over ice bath. Black Butte Porter, execute them.” Strain again and spin in ice cream maker. Guini says.

30 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 31 Chew This Housemade ice cream is one of the easiest ways to Frozen Assets: Three on- Chartreuse and Rhubarb impress diners. Understand trend ideas to make bank Swirl Ice Cream the definition of “chewiness”— Pastry chef Sohrob Esmaili which means texture is San Francisco Proper Hotel, San Francisco everything—and your frozen Spiced Sugars: At Clementine’s Naughty & treats will be a hit. Some key Nice Creamery in St. Louis, Tamara Keefe draws 1067 g milk points to remember: inspiration from the spice markets of India and 40g tarragon/angelica Asia. Think turmeric-black pepper, Asian ginger 3g salt and even kimchi ice creams. “Indian and Asian flavors 383 grams heavy cream bring in surprisingly large crowds, including some 186 grams sugar Cure the base consumers we might not have seen otherwise,” says Keefe. 213 grams glucose powder at least four hours 62 grams milk powder or overnight to 8 grams ice cream stabilizer, such as guar or A New Kind of Popsicle Stand: Brooke Williamson of Playa allow the flavors to Source: Dana Cree of xanthum gum Pretty Cool Ice Cream Provisions in Playa Del Ray, California, makes it easy develop. 1 bottle Chartreuse, reduced to 150 grams in Chicago and for adults to buy boozy popsicles (kiwi and Campari 35% 900 grams deep red skinned rhubarb, chopped author of “Hello My Percent of consumers cantaloupe pops) and for kids to grab frozen cookie Name is Ice Cream: 270 grams water say dairy-free options dough bars from a grab-and-go freezer at the front of the Work in cream The Art and Science 280 grams sugar would motivate them of the Scoop.” restaurant. Frozen treats are a can’t-miss impulse buy, and cheese to the base. 50 grams corn syrup to order a dessert fly off her shelves for $2.50 to $6.50 a pop. Dairy needs to be 25 grams glucose Source: Technomic’s 2019 boiled to create a Dessert Consumer Trend Report 13 grams stabilizer chemical reaction, which leads to a Iced Garden Greens: Pastry chef Sohrob Esmaili of the Bring milk to simmer, then add tarragon or better mouth feel. Proper Hotel uses these veggie scraps to create semisweet angelica. Allow to steep overnight. Lightly carrot sorbets and lighten the flavors of boozy treats, like pulse the infusion and strain. Combine with her angelica-chartreuse ice creams. Meanwhile, executive salt, cream, sugar and glucose powder in Xanthan, chef Jason Fox sets a nasturtium sorbet in the middle of his heavy-bottom pot and bring to 70 C. Mix milk guar gum or summer salads for a cold blast of garden flavors. powder with stabilizer and slowly whisk into cornstarch pot once the mix reaches 70 C. Whisk and cook improves mixture to 85 C. Turn heat down, maintaining texture. temp at 85 degree C for 3 minutes. Remove Roasted Banana Caramel Ice Cream from heat, strain and cool down over ice bath. An egg Pastry Chef Logan Atkinson Once cool, add chartreuse reduction and spin base, Oak Steakhouse, Raleigh, North Carolina in ice cream machine. Pour into frozen baking aka custard, pan and reserve in the freezer. turns out 1 quart heavy cream the richest ½ quart whole milk Place rhubarb with half the water and sugar in texture. 225 grams yolks To make roast banana puree: Place 25 over- a bowl topped and wrapped with plastic wrap. 416 grams sugar ripe bananas in a single layer on a sheet tray Place bowl over a pot with simmering water, Buttermilk Salt to taste and drizzle with canola oil. Bake at 350 F until leaving space between bowl and water. Allow accentuates 375 grams roast banana puree, recipe follows bananas are black and beginning to burst. Cool rhubarb to macerate until soft, almost mushy. naturally Caramel swirl, as needed, recipe follows before peeling bananas and pureeing the flesh. Blend until smooth in blender. sweet fruits. Bring milk and cream to a simmer for a few To make caramel swirl: Combine 250 grams In pot, bring rest of the water, corn syrup, and minutes. Meanwhile, whisk yolks and sugar sugar and 100 grams glucose in a heavy glucose to a boil. Combine remaining sugar together. Temper hot milk into yolks. Return to bottomed pot with ½ cup water. Cook over with sorbet stabilizer; slowly stream into sugar 37% the pot and cook, stirring until mix reaches 174 medium heat until sugar caramelizes to syrup. Cook for 3 minutes, strain and chill. of diners eat F. Remove from heat and strain. Place in an ice medium amber color. Remove from heat and Blend stabilizer syrup with rhubarb puree until frozen desserts with bath to cool. Whisk in roast banana and cure carefully whisk in 150 grams heavy cream, combined. Spin in ice cream machine; chill. or after a meal overnight. Spin in an ice cream machine. While 5 grams salt, 25 grams butter and 5 grams While soft, layer over chartreuse ice cream on Source: Datassential Desserts frozen but pliable stir in caramel swirl. vanilla until homogeneous. a chilled baking pan. Fold until just combined. Keynote Report

32 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 33 Cookies and wild flavors make for fun ice cream sandwiches.

split earl gray scone topped with a roasted tarragon-strawberry sauce and candied poppy seeds. Given its richness, it feels sharable—always a plus for sundaes—but at $12 a pop, it remains profitable.

RISE OF THE ALT-MILK MOVEMENT Interest in dairy-free ice creams doesn’t show any signs of abating, says Williams Poppyseed, chocolate stout and chartreuse of Rockwell Ice Cream. “It’s not that rhubarb are the new everyone is suddenly becoming vegan,” he grown-up flavors. says. “It’s that milk products can be hard on people’s digestive systems. People want ice cream without the fear of discomfort.” A nondairy ice cream that defies the stereotype of its genre (poor texture and flavor) can build a loyal following. ANY GIVEN SUNDAE Williams uses a coconut cream base for To make a better sundae, pair unique his fruit flavors and almond milk for his NOTE$ FROM ice cream flavors with rich and complex chocolate and peanut butters and adds savory moles and French mother sauces. invert syrups (maple, agave, brown rice, THE FIELD “I like to work with barley malt syrup and golden syrup) for extra body. “If you can Individual scoops are molasses—bases that can be both salty get them creamy enough that people can’t and sweet—and then bring in acidity tell the difference, they’ll love you for it.” not takeout-friendly but and slightly bitter notes,” says pastry Next up: goat milk ice creams. a pint kept frozen at a chef Tucker Critchfield of Moody Tongue Williams’ goat cheese ice cream swirled lower temperature can Brewing Company in Chicago. “I don’t with roasted almonds, rosemary and withstand delivery and think diners want the overwhelming sweet blackberry-lemon jab won an award increase check averages. stuff anymore.” Note his poppy-seed gelato from the traditional dairy farmers last sundae. Buttermilk gelato—made with summer. “Goat cheese produce some of preserved Meyer lemons and pithy bits of the thickest and creamiest ice creams poppy seed—are sandwiched between a around,” says Williams.

34 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 Cup of Sunshine Ice Cream (Turmeric-Black Pepper Ice Cream) Pastry chef Tamara Keefe, Clementine’s Creamery, St. Louis

2 cups milk 1¼ cups heavy cream

²⁄3 cup sugar 3 tablespoons light corn syrup 3 tablespoons cream cheese, softened 3 tablespoons light corn syrup 4 teaspoons Cup of Sunshine Dust* 3 teaspoons cornstarch ½ teaspoon salt

In a bowl, stir together ¼ cup milk and cornstarch; set slurry aside. Earl Grey Scone Sundae Combine cream, 360 grams sugar, milk with Poppyseed Gelato and powder, vanilla bean and 5 grams salt in a pot. In a 4-quart saucepan, whisk remaining milk Roasted Strawberries Simmer. Add yolks; whisk until thick. Transfer and cream, sugar, syrup and salt; bring to a Pastry Chef Tucker Critchfield to ice water; whisk in 1200 grams buttermilk. boil over medium-high heat. Cook for four Moody Tongue Brewing Company, Chicago Chill, strain and spin in ice cream machine. Add minutes; stir in slurry. Return to boil and cook, lemon and poppy seeds; freeze. stirring, until thickened, about 2 minutes. 475 grams cream 435 grams sugar, divided use In stand mixer, combine flour, 75 grams sugar, Place softened cream cheese in a bowl and 75 grams dry nonfat milk powder baking powder and 5 grams salt. Mix in butter, pour in ¼ cup hot milk mixture; whisk until 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped eggs, 270 grams buttermilk, lemon zest and smooth. Then whisk in remaining milk mixture 10 grams salt, divided use tea. Form into squares. Chill and cut into and Cup of Sunshine Dust. 5 egg yolks desired size. Bake in 350 F heated oven for 15 1,470 grams full fat buttermilk, divided use minutes. Split scone and add a scoop of ice Pour mixture into a plastic bag; seal and 30 grams poppy seeds cream to make sandwich. Top with candied submerge in a bowl of ice water until 30 grams preserved lemon or candied poppy seeds, roasted strawberries and syrup. chilled. Transfer to refrigerator and let rest lemon, chopped for 24 hours. 600 grams flour Roasted strawberries: Toss 454 grams hulled Strawberries are roasted 240 grams cold butter, cubed strawberries with 200 grams sugar and 10 Pour mixture into an ice cream maker; process with thyme for 35 grams baking powder grams salt. Add small bunch tarragon and according to manufacturer’s instructions a sweet and 2 eggs roast in 300 F heated oven until juices release. and serve. savory sauce. 20 grams ground Earl Grey tea Zest of 2 lemons Candied poppy seeds: Heat 200 grams sugar to *Cup of Sunshine Dust, a combination of Roasted strawberries, recipe follows 215 F. Add 200 grams poppy seed, stirring until ginger, turmeric, lemongrass and peppercorns Candied poppyseed, recipe follows they begin crystallizing. Cool on sheet pan. can be purchased at bighearttea.com. n

36 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 37 ◃ Bank On It sweet

Listen up to alternative AGAVE NECTAR sweeteners Once believed to have medicinal properties, agave nectar is sap By Laura Yee extracted from agave Photography by Eva Kolenko plants (yes, the same Food styling by Adam Pearson ones that produce Prop styling by Natasha Kolenko tequila). When it’s slowly heated, much of its nutritional benefits are preserved. » Attributes: A dark or There’s more to be sweet on than sugar. light amber containing 60 Alternative sweeteners—monk fruit, coconut calories per tablespoon palm sugar, sorghum and others—are gaining versus 48 for refined relevance in response to specialty diets and the sugar, but it’s 1.5 times demand for healthier options. Interest is also sweeter, so less can be expected to rise now that diet-related illnesses, used. Don’t confuse with such as diabetes and hypertension, have shown to agave syrup, a highly increase the severity of the new coronavirus. processed product “There has been a change in the way we’re similar to high-fructose addressing health concerns, especially with the corn syrup that indeed dramatic increase in allergies, intolerances and spikes glycemic levels. dietary preferences,” says Emily Spurlin, executive » Why it stands out: COCONUT pastry chef for Lula Cafe in Chicago. “This is part Ideal for recipes that are PALM SUGAR of the motivation to use alternative sugars.” lighter in color or require Made by evaporating Unlike refined sugar, many of these sweeteners a smoother texture. Less moisture from coconut have nutritional value. Some are naturally derived, is needed for balanced palm sap, resulting in » Why it stands out: lower in carbohydrates and calorie-free, with or sweetness. a granulated brown- A versatile sweetener without a distinct flavor profile. » How to use it: Look colored sugar with that behaves similarly Like most ingredients, texture, complexity and for raw agave, a lesser- caramel-like flavors. to sugar. exploring new flavors also drive interest. But don’t processed product with » Attributes: Contains » How to use it: expect alternative sugars to replace refined sugar. active enzymes. Not iron, zinc, calcium, Works well in baked Not all are healthier, and some are handicapped conducive for replacing potassium and other goods, from cookies and by price and an inability to reproduce the same sugar in creaming nutrients, such as cakes to muffin batter, results as sugar. And yet, knowing how to use them methods but works well polyphenols and custards and sauces. Sift can spur creativity and expand options for carb- in ice cream, mousse antioxidants. Unlike before using. Choose cutting and health-conscious customers. and desserts where sugar, its lower glycemic lighter varieties for Chefs and pastry chefs offer their experience and granulated sugars pose level prevents blood subtler flavor, darker for talkers insight so diners can have their cake and eat it, too. texture issues. glucose from spiking. more intensity. USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 39 So Long, Sugar

Considering alternative sugar can show customers that you’re not tone deaf to the ERYTHRITOL MAPLE SUGAR/ importance of a strong immune system as Made from alcohol sugar, MAPLE SYRUP one way to guard against illness this alternative sweetener Known for its distinct can be found naturally in flavor, maple has been For example, Kristen Thibeault, chef and co- wine, beer and cheese. used more as a flavoring founder of Nybll, a noncommercial operation » Attributes: Contains than a sweetener. in the San Francisco area, no longer uses no calories but has » Attributes: While not refined sugar. four grams of carbs seasonal, it epitomizes per teaspoon; 70 to 80 the fall, when trees are Her corporate clients, which include percent as sweet as tapped for sap. High Fortune 500 companies and sports teams, sugar with no discernible in manganese with a want healthier alternatives, she says, aftertaste. Erythritol is moderate level of zinc which sugar would limit. Instead, she uses quickly absorbed by the and smaller amounts of monk fruit as a sweetener in baked goods, body but doesn’t have potassium, thiamine and smoothies and whenever sweetness would a chance to metabolize, other minerals. Glycemic benefit a savory dish. Monk fruit, unlike which means it doesn’t levels are slightly lower refined sugar, does not impact glycemic affect glycemic levels. than sugar. levels and contains zero calories. DATES » Why it stands out: » Why it stands out: Its high-fiber content “Most people know that cookies or granola Considered a zero-net A highly desirable flavor and natural sweetness may be great for 20 minutes but then you carb, though the claim that accents desserts and can produce healthier crash,” Thibeault say. “When you make is controversial; keto- savory applications. snacks, but its honeyed those items with monk fruit, that doesn’t friendly. » How to use it: flavor and structure happen. We’re about 90 percent vegan, » How to use it: Although maple syrups limits its reach. but people don’t even know that. They just Available in multiple are pricey, mix equal » Attributes: know the food tastes good and they feel forms, making it amounts with coconut Dehydrated and ground, good after eating it.” suitable as a cup-for-cup palm sugar or organic date sugar can be replacement for sugar. cane sugar to reduce substituted for refined costs. Sift before using. sugar but leaves bits of Use to make candied nuts grit that don’t always or kettle corn. dissolve. When ground Butterfly Pea Smoothie Bowl into a paste, dates act Chef/co-founder Kristen Thibeault as a binder in cookies, Nybll, Oakland, California granola and energy bars, creating a moist, fudgy 1 frozen banana, ripe-ish, cut into pieces consistency. Sweeter ½ cup frozen blueberries date syrup can also be ½ cup chilled coconut or almond milk used but not as a one- 2 teaspoons monk fruit sweetener to-one replacement for 1 tablespoon chia seeds refined sugar. 1 tablespoon hemp seeds » Why it stands out: An 2 teaspoons Blue Butterfly Pea Flower Powder option for healthy snacks 2 or 3 seasonal fruits, such as addition blueberries, and plant-based desserts. raspberries, blackberries, to garnish » How to use it: Ideal Almonds, slivered, to garnish for sweetening smoothies Shredded unsweetened coconut, to garnish. and energy bars that require a binder and Puree ingredients in a blender except garnishes. natural sweetness. Has Top with seasonal favorites, such as slivered almonds, a distinct flavor profile, blackberries, sliced kiwi and shredded unsweetened contributes to a higher coconut. Makes 1 smoothie bowl. food cost.

40 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 41 Sake Lees Sorbet with a boil. Combine the powdered glucose, sugar, salt and Strawberries and Nasturtium ice cream stabilizer in a bowl. Slowly sprinkle the mixture Chef-owner Corey Lee over the boiling milk, whisking constantly. Return the milk Benu, San Francisco to a boil. Pour a quarter of the hot milk mixture into a blender and add the xanthan gum. Blend on a low speed 500 grams whole milk for 4 minutes to hydrate the gum. Mix with the milk in the 60 grams sake lees pan. Strain into a container and allow to mature in the 95 grams glucose syrup refrigerator for at least 4 hours. Pour the mixture into a 95 grams glucose powder Pacojet container and freeze. 25 grams sugar 3 grams salt To plate, scoop sake lees sherbet into a bowl. Add 0.7 grams Cremodan 30 ice cream stabilizer strawberry ice scraped with a fork to make shavings. 0.7 grams xanthan gum Add the strawberries. Garnish with nasturtium leaves. Strawberry garnish, prep follows Strawberry ice, recipe follows To make the strawberry ice: Puree 1 kg strawberries in Nasturtium leaves, as needed a blender, adding sugar until puree reaches 10 brix. Pour into a shallow pan and freeze. Place half of the milk in a blender with the sake lees and blend on a high speed until smooth. Combine with the To make strawberry garnish: Vacuum pack 400 grams remaining milk and glucose syrup in a pan and bring to fresh strawberries with 75 grams sugar and water syrup.

Smart Manufacturing

Each spread is processed and packaged in-house to ensure traceability, safety

and quality. Our form, fi ll, seal production minimizes exposure

to air. In addition, freshness coding tells the full story of

each cup down to the manufacturing line

and time it was produced.

42 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 43 SUPPORT SUSTAINABILITY. SERVE GOOD®. MONK FRUIT SORGHUM To-go service is sustainable with Monogram® products from our Serve Good® program. Juiced and dried Made from the juice of into a powder, monk crushed sorghum cane, Made from recycled content and compostable materials, our line of responsible disposables fruit boasts a strong it’s often compared to reduces waste while helping you meet a growing consumer demand. nutritional profile and molasses, but sorghum’s sweetening power. mildly bitter aftertaste » Attributes: Sweetness balances out its is not derived from sweetness. Awareness fructose or glucose, has been expanding but mogrosides, which beyond the South, where exhibit cell-protecting it’s often paired with hot antioxidants and biscuits. anti-inflammatory » Attributes: While characteristics. Monk fruit not as nutritional as its is 200 to 350 times sweeter flour form, sorghum than refined sugar. Often syrup contains small cut with erythritol. amounts of vitamins » Why it stands out: and minerals, including No impact on glycemic thiamin, copper, iron, levels; keto and diabetic phosphorus, calcium, friendly. Worthy zinc, selenium and substitute for baked riboflavin. goods; does not impact » Why it stands out: flavor. A quality stand-in » How to use it: for molasses, maple Because of its sweetness, syrup or other liquid SAKE LEES monk fruit is often mixed sweeteners. The byproduct of sake with other ingredients, » How to use: Look for making, sake lees (also such as erythritol, making “sweet sorghum” logo known as sake kasu) has it a cup-for-cup stand- to ensure it’s 100% pure a light, sweet and fruity in for sugar. However, sorghum. It can easily PURECANE flavor that can be used beware of artificial be used as a substitute The recent release of Purecane could easily be in savory and sweet additives. Some brands for corn syrup in many overlooked in foodservice as operators struggle applications. offer various forms, recipes but yields much to handle the new normal. That would be » Attributes: The resembling granulated, different flavors. unfortunate considering this is a first of its kind in chalky white, cheese- light brown and the field of alternative no-calorie sweeteners. like slabs contain powdered sugars. » Attributes: Developed by Amyris, a amino acids and other sustainability-focused biotechnology upstart, nutrients. Reconstitute Purecane is a zero-calorie, zero glycemic, keto- with water and use as friendly sweetener made through a fermentation a paste. process using sustainably grown sugarcane. » Why it stands out: Why it stands out: The patented process behind Ideal for riffing on savory Purecane mimics the super sweet rebaudioside dishes and desserts. M (Reb-M) molecule in stevia but doesn’t contain » How to use: any of the plant. As a result, Amyris says the An ingredient for cakes, aftertaste of stevia-based sweeteners does not ice cream and cookie exist in Purecane. bars. Not as sweet as Considerations: Can be used like sugar, other alternatives, measuring cup for cup. Caramelizes as well. sake lees is more of EXCLUSIVE Purecane calls itself “all natural” but is made an accent ingredient, thus through a patented scientific process. it has a limited reach. n BRAND For more information or to order, visit usfoods.com 44 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 45 or contact your US Foods® representative. SPECIAL ADVERTORIAL SUPPLEMENT

Packaging foods to stay crispy, such as Conquest® Delivery+™ fries, as well as separating sauces, helps maintain the integrity of the product upon delivery.

2 Get as much use from all ingredients To cut one dish over another, consider all the ingredients. “We try to marry food items on dinner delivery and party boxes so we don’t have to keep too much UP inventory in-house,” says Andrea Correale, president of Elegant Affairs, a New York YOUR and Long Island-based caterer. Ingredients that do double or multiple TAKEOUT duties also reduces labor, especially important when illness GAME is more likely than ever to impact staffing. “Many composed pasta Your livelihood (dishes) all use some combination of four sauces,” says CEO Elliot depends on it Schiffer of Denver’s Mici xecuting takeout can seem simple—until it isn’t. 1 Keep It Simple Handcrafted Italian. During a pandemic, when takeout and delivery To Harrison, are the best options for survival and repeat uncomplicating the 3 Ferret out business is critical, to-go should get more love. menu has kept his takeout downers “We weren’t sure if we were going to survive sandwich shop going. A Dine-in food that works when this all started,” says Dash Harrison, co- dish that has a long prep for takeout is food that owner of Curtis Park Deli in Denver. But heeding list or too much labor keeps, says Correale. By Natalie Jew various measures while transitioning to takeout should be cut. “We want “Items that hold well has allowed the company to thrive. to give the customer and don’t get dried out When so much is at stake, it makes sense to options while still being easily,” she says. Foods take a harder look at how transport can affect mindful of food waste, that eat well at room the menu. food integrity and overall temperature or reheat waste,” Harrison says. easily are good choices.

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4 Address containers to recyclable potential disasters plastic bowls so the food Add more sauce to dishes can be reheated in the that tend to absorb it while microwave. Delivery solved. cooling, or be especially “Especially during ® ™ leery of overcooking this time, it is difficult, NEW! CONQUEST DELIVERY+ FRIES WITH 40+ MINUTE HOLD TIME! foods. Allow fried food to expensive and bad for sit before venting to cover the environment to use it, Correale says, which multiple containers for a will reduce sogginess. “All single dish,” Schiffer says. “THIS COVID veggies should be sent Packaging helped Unbeatable: Versatile: Stays crisp and delicious for Use as your primary fry for both al dente (and) reheating Geja’s Cafe, a TIME HAS instructions need to be longstanding fondue CAUSED US 40+ minutes after cooking on- and off-premise customers tested and accurate.” concept in Chicago, Choose ingredients transition to takeout TO STRETCH known to hold up. For by packing cheese in OUT OF OUR example, in-house heatable containers. hand-cut fries rock but “This COVID time has COMFORT not so much for delivery. caused us to stretch out ZONE AND Consider a frozen fry, of our comfort zone and such as Simplot’s new add a bit of reinvention,” ADD A BIT OF Conquest® Delivery+™, says proprietor Jeff REINVENTION” that stays hot and crisp Lawler, who also gives longer. out equipment for —Jeff Lawler of Geja’s Cafe fondue at home. Profitable: 5 Prep for success Extra Long Fancy Presentation all to often 7 Make ordering length fills containers and is overlooked in takeout. easy plates with fewer strips Package the main As tough as it is to spend component separately revenue now, failure to and provide directions update your POS system for plating. Or rethink or website for user- 8 Practice and presentation. The sliced friendly ordering would communicate and layered tomatoes be a mistake, operators safety and fresh mozzarella say. New York City’s At Honey Salt in Las caprese at Mici changed iconic Grimaldi’s Pizzeria Vegas, detailed safety to halved grape tomatoes under the Brooklyn Bridge protocols pop up on and chunks of cheese began offering takeout the website. All staff for takeout. “We have and delivery for the first are required to wear designed every dish to time during the pandemic protective face coverings be transportable while and expanded its online and gloves, says Todd trying to keep it true to infrastructure for its Harrington, director of its roots,” says Schiffer. other locations to allow culinary operations at for increased telephone Blau + Associates that 6 Pay closer and website orders. owns the restaurant. Components that can be used in multiple ways, attention to “Takeout and delivery “Additionally, they use ® such as Simplot’s Conquest Delivery+, can be packaging are no longer optional,” sanitizer wipes at the combined with other ingredients as its own dish, says CEO Joseph Ciolli. chef’s pass, the table top, or served alongside an entree. It’s not just the food, but what it goes inside “They’re requirements for to-go orders and the Satisfying: Reheat-able: of, says Schiffer, for restaurants to stay hostess stand for every Crisp on the outside, Tell customers to microwave at who moved from foil afloat.” use/interaction.” fluffy on the inside with home for 20 seconds to restore great potato flavor temperature and crispness ©2020 J.R. Simplot Company

48 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 Request a FREE sample and see recipes at potatoes | avocados | fruits | vegetables | grains https://go.simplotfoods.com/delivery TREND TRACKER ON THE RADAR HIGH ALERT FADING OUT ON THE RADAR HIGH ALERT FADING OUT MEAT OF THE MATTER ● ● ● Cancel Culture is Real Now that diners are beyond the once Everyone loves a take down, especially impossible notion of plant-based burgers when it’s driven by allegations of poor food that bleed and have embraced meatless safety and unfair treatment of staff. But the patties, are they ready for a meat-free best way to prevent a social media firestorm? steak created by 3D printing technology? Be a decent human.

▶ Last Seen: Redefine Meat, which is ▶ Last Seen: Chef-owner Jessica Koslow creating different cuts of beef with plant- of beloved Los Angeles restaurant Sqirl Trust is the New Currency Cozy is Officially Crazy based ingredients, are testing them this addressed allegations of moldy jam and Before COVID-19, exemplary service led to Tightly packed small restaurants and communal fall with select restaurants and will use mistreatment of workers. She also apologized Not Everything is Better Fried loyalty. Today, it’s about whether diners trust dining are caput in pandemic recovery world. their feedback to fine-tune texture and on Instagram. But will that be enough What’s not to love about branzino? It’s that the restaurant can prove safety and their flavor or a rollout next year. to regain trust? farmed sustainably, affordable and has well-being are the highest priorities. ▶ Try this instead: If relocating isn’t an option, a mild flavor that even fish-haters dig. fill a need in your community, such as offering But do you have to deep fry it, especially Go with the Dough ▶ Last Seen: Operators who clearly communicate a takeaway-only menu, specialty foods or when it’s hard to keep crispy for takeout? Changing up toppings or riffing on the sauce safety protocols—whether on social media, their provisions that aren’t easily attainable by the aren’t the only ways to innovate pizza. The website or signage throughout the restaurant— dining public. ▶ Try this instead: Pan sear or grill like Giulia in approach can be as simple as boosting the report that business is brisk. Cambridge, Massachusetts, where local striped dough, old school-style with fermentation. bass is served en brodetto—lovage broth and seasonal vegetables and saffron aioli. ▶ Last Seen: Public Display of Affection in Brooklyn, New York, rolls out sourdough crust for its pie, which adds chew, flavor and character. RESERVATIONS UPENDED DON’T ● ● ● Did it take a pandemic to finally put a TOUCH THAT dent in no-shows? Deposits for casual Milk It That’s Entertainment ● ● ● restaurants, limiting dining times and The Crowd You Keep Japanese milk bread is reaching cult status and Takeout that’s interactive and experiential begins screening customers about COVID-19 Forget about handing diners menus Crowdfunding to help pay operations and branching out thanks to a core ingredient. The with fine dining but can apply to other types of exposure are becoming a part of securing and check minders even if they can workers has increased but as the pandemic slurry of milk and flour tangzhong( ) responsible foodservice. You prep, customers execute. reservations for dining in. be sanitized. Contact-free is the word Breathe Easy wears on, it’s also wearing on diners. Unless for its pillowy texture is also lightening and of the day—no matter the day. The race is on for devices to protect consumers the campaign is strategic and tells a compelling extending the shelf life of yeast-risen pastries. ▶ Last Seen: Michelin three-star Alinea in ▶ Last Seen: Favor in Lexington, Kentucky beyond regular protocols. Among them: The story, success is questionable. Chicago sells out six-course dinners to-go, requires a $5 deposit per diner ▶ Try this instead: Create a QR code Nimbus expels a saline mist that customers ▶ Last Seen: Hiroshi in Los Altos, replete with detailed instructions, from plating while restaurants with Resy reservation so diners can easily find your menu would inhale before dining indoors. The ▶ Try this instead: Numerous nonprofits that California, makes a panko-crusted A5 wagyu courses that include heating botanicals to software can ask diners about exposure to on their mobile device. Enable seawater-like vapor allegedly reduces the support restaurants and workers have emerged sandwich while Kindred in Davidson, fragrant a dish to creating a Jackson Pollock- the new coronavirus. contact-free payments through your spread of COVID-19 and other airborne illnesses since the early days of the pandemic. Go to North Carolina, serves milk bread cinnamon style shareable dessert with baked goods and point of sales system. by 99% for up to six hours. Large-scale tests usfoods.com/giveback for resources. rolls as a dinner dessert. multiple sauces on acetate film. are underway.

50 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 51 ► ORANGE WINE IS MAKING A MAJOR chardonnay, or pinot noir and nebbiolo. It’s SPLASH. Once consigned to the dustbins of truly just incredibly versatile.” the craft, this vibrant, ancient commodity Nancy Koziol, wine expert and owner ◃ I’ll Drink to That has become the industry’s celebrated dark of Vermont-based couch & cork, suggests horse, hailed even as the usurper of ever- an interactive process. While in-person popular rose. And now that restaurants events aren’t possible, consider partnering can sell alcohol to go in nearly all states, it’s with a local winemaker to discuss the wines poised to gain even more traction. through social media, such as a Facebook or ORANGE “We were lucky enough to remain open Instagram Live session. during lockdown for essential business only Addressing consumer wariness and (winemaking and selling bottles for retail),” says preconceived notions can be fun. “Play to your YOU Vincent Stilletti, a manager and sommelier at Red menu’s strengths and know your audience,” Koziol Hook Winery in Brooklyn, New York. ▼ says. “Orange wine is like the kid you brought Similar to rose, orange wine is made from white LAST SEEN home in high school just because you knew your GLAD? grapes but the skin is left on longer, which adds In New York, sibling parents were going to hate him. You can see all tannins, its distinctive color and flavor often restaurants Cervo’s, these great characteristics, but they’re just like, referred to as a briny or nutty taste. Hart’s and The Fly are ‘Doesn’t he smoke pot behind the dumpster?’” “It typically has more body than the equivalent selling orange wines by Adventurous wine lovers, Stilletti says, are without the skin fermentation,” Stilletti says of the the bottle as a part of enthralled with Red Hook’s selection of orange process, which has an 8,000-year recorded history. their weekly provisions wines and rose fans are intrigued by the hype. But “With the skins, you get beautiful aromatics.” to-go offerings. beer drinkers are also drawn to orange wines. Pairing such bold wines can be intimidating, “If someone says, ‘I’m not really a wine drinker; sommeliers say, but it also provides opportunity for I’m more of a beer drinker,’ I’ll say, ‘Oh great, discussion, even if it’s under a mask or over email do you like sour beers? Do you like saison, with customers. Belgian stuff, try (orange wine).’ All of ours are Because darker variants are such adept spontaneous fermentation on top, much like those centerpieces, they partner well with rich dishes, Belgian sour beers where they just let the native especially lamb, curries and fermented foods ambient yeast do its job, rather than inoculating such as kimchi. Lighter orange wines offer a it with a cultured strain or something from a Bank on this complementary brininess to fish, particularly laboratory,” Stilletti says. “It’s more of a return trout, haddock and anchovies. For cheese, to nature, return to the roots of wine, and Stilletti recommends aged gouda. The nutty same with the Belgian beer versus say, an amber-hued undertones of many orange wines also pair industrial beer.” with plant-based cheese alternatives. If interacting on social media isn’t for wine dining “There’s such a range within the category you, do let diners know orange wine can of orange,” says Stilletti, “just as there is be purchased for takeout. And share the in and via a massive range between pinot grigio and cheat sheet below. n takeout

▼ Orange Wine Cheat Sheet By Blair Hopkins BLEND DESCRIPTION SERVE PAIRS WITH Photography by Eva Kolenko Food styling by Adam Pearson Dark/Bold Briny, bold, savory, dense Room temperature Duck, kimchi, potatoes, curry, aged Prop styling by Natasha Kolenko Decanted Gouda, chevre, dark chocolate

Light Sharp, tannic, spicy, chipper Chilled or room temperature, Trout, haddock, peaches and other not decanted stone fruits, honey, radicchio, vegan cheeses, caramel

GRAPE VARIETIES Sauvignon Vert, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Moscat, Ribolla Gialla, Rkatsiteli

52 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 USFoods.com/foodfanatics | FOOD FANATICS 53 BY THE NUMBERS PLAY THESE NUMBERS FOR A BIGGER PAYOUT TopT IIt O Off TheThe ingredients ingredients in ain burger a burger can cantake take the Americanthe American favorite from good to great. favoriteFill up onfrom the good toppings to great. that Fill have up on grown the toppings the fastest . that have grown the fastest.

GROWTH SINCE 2016 ON MENUS

ESE +171% CHE 1 N .6 AC % M TIAMOO LET YOUR HASH RONS VEAN CHEESE +65% 1.4% +135% +900% 1.7% 0.4% MASTERY SHINE CHEDDAR +10% AMERICAN PEPPER AC +14% CHICPEAS Whether grilling, braising or barbecuing, no beef lets 46.2% 35% +10% 15.5% +133% your skills take center stage like Sterling Silver® Premium 0.9% PUED POR Meats. Hand-selected for their marbling and tenderness +38.9% 3.2% with strict standards for superior quality, our cuts perform consistently and deliciously. RISET +74.4% 3.2% POR E SAUSAE +52.9% 1.1% +53.1% 2.1%

REMOUADE +71% 1.6% HOANDAISE +333% ACON AM 0.6% SAVOR AM +244% +108% 2.4% HARISSA CHIMICHURRI 5.7% +30% 0.6% +38% 0.5%

Source: Datassential BY STUDIO PIC ILLUSTRATION 72 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020

54 FOOD FANATICS / SUMMER 2020 1.855.223.3383 | [email protected] | STERLINGSILVERMEATS.COM | @STERLINGSILVERPREMIUMMEATS ©2020 Cargill Meat Soluti ons Corporati on. ARRIVAL OF THE FITTEST Simple, tidy, strong – the perfect fi t for your operation. Monogram® Can Liners are the best in the market, with star seals, premium resins and easy-to-use dispensing boxes.

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