Behind the Scenes 888

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OUR READERS Jean-Bernard Carillet Many thanks to the travelers who used Heaps of thanks to Catherine Craddock for the last edition and wrote to us with help- her trust and to the editorial and cartography ful hints, useful advice and interesting teams. Ryan, coordinating-author extraordi- anecdotes: naire, deserves the thumbs up for his humor Silje Abelsen, Scott Adams, Dean Alexander, and support – a few beers await! In St Lucia, Gunilla Bewert, Steve Brosnan, Brandon special thanks to Genevieve, Janique, Rhonda, Bruce, Susan Burton, John Condon, Jerry Charkar, Jacques, Zaka and the staff at the Coyd, Sergio De Sousa, Amelie A Gagnon, St Lucia tourism board. In Paris, a heartfelt Holly Hill, Darlene James, Martin Jennett, désolé to Celine L, who (unwillingly) shared Jessica Johnson, Philip Johnston, Niels Juul, my ups and downs while I was on the road. On Megan Kelly, Kevin Krol, Jeff Mahler, Ignacio the home-front, well-deserved bisous to my Morejon, Odell Prior, Trish Reid, Michael daughter Eva and Christine, who shared some Ryan, Vic Sofras, Ivo Sotorp, Prammantioti of my Caribbean adventures a long time ago. Stavroula, Stanley Urban, Phil Vass Nate Cavalieri Thanks to the ‘Dream Team’ for the lengthy AUTHOR THANKS and heated discussion about desserts of Ryan Ver Berkmoes the world and to my excellent colleagues at Lonely Planet. Thanks especially to Florence Huge thanks go to the amazing team of Chien, my favorite person. authors who worked on this book. That we were able to produce this level of work when Paul Clammer forced to travel to the Caribbean from our Travel in Haiti is always an amazing experi- cold winter homes is extraordinary. Thanks ence, but my trips in 2010 were particu- to the in-house team, including Cat Crad- larly humbling, seeing the aftermath of the dock, Bruce Evans, Alison Lyall and Laura earthquake and the fortitude of the Haitians. Crawford. On the road, big thanks to the Special thanks to Michael, Walnes and the island of Bequia for being so cool that it’s St Joe’s family. Thanks also to Jacqualine my new favorite small island. And to old pals Labrom, Emily Troutman, Landon Yarrington, everywhere: humble thanks. Bette Gebrian, Tessa Lewis, Nat Segaren, Leah Page, Gabie Vincent and Thor Burnham. Michael Grosberg helped me during my research, In Cuba spe- Rebecca Tessler, my heart, is always with cial thanks to Julio Muñoz, Rafael Requejo, 889 me. Gracias to Isabel Rosario, Oscar Jr and Nilson Guilaré, Angel Rodríguez, Victor in his father and Pinky Rodriguez in Jarabacoa; Trinidad, Maité and Idolka in Morón, Norberto Mark Fernandez and Tim Hall for their help in Hernández in Havana and the bloke at Ecotur Puerto Plata; mountain biker Maximo Gomez; in Bayamo. On the work-front, muchas gra- Mariam Matías and her brother David from cias to co-author Luke Waterson and com- Constanza; Steve McKenney from Luperon; missioning editor Catherine Craddock. On the home-front, well-deserved besos to wife, chef Rafael Vasquez; Martin Pantallon in San- BEHIND THE SCENES to Domingo. To Carly Neidorf for her support Liz and son, Kieran. and presence. And of course to my co-author Andrea Schulte-Peevers Kevin Raub, coordinating author Paul Clam- mer and commissioning editor Catherine A heartfelt thank you to all those whose Craddock and managing editor Bruce Evans. advice, support and insights were invaluable during the research of this book, particularly Adam Karlin the irrepressible Carolanne Watson, the gra- Thanks: Julian and Alex for friendship, laughs cious Simonetta Di Barbora and fi lm-maker and perspective, Steve and Roger for tons of par excellence David Lea. Special thanks valuable advice, Rachel for her companion- to my colleague Ryan Ver Berkmoes for so ship and constant support, every Jamaican generously sharing his expertise, to Cat who passed along a genuine smile and Craddock for entrusting me with this gig and warmth, Ryan for heading this mammoth to Suki Gear for her many years of trust and book – and big ups to Anna Kaminski for support. Last but not least, a giant thank helping make this Jamaica chapter what it is. you to my Nascar-quality husband David for white-knuckling the islands’ often hellish Tom Masters roads. Many thanks to Rosemary Masters, who Polly Thomas accompanied me on much of my travels for this book, and retained her good humor as Huge thanks to Dexter Lewis for support I defected to research hotels or drove her beyond the call of duty; and to Skye Her- down dirt tracks looking for obscure beaches: nandez, Bess Hernandez and Dwayne Lewis you’re the best mother in the world, and I for love, support and Aaron-related backup. couldn’t have hoped for a more inspirational Thanks also to Lucille Sylvester for coming parent. Many thanks also to all the folks who up trumps where the Tourist Board didn’t; to helped me along the way, to my Lonely Planet Brandon Presser for guiding lights; and Bruce colleagues and the wonderful people of the Evans and Cat Craddock for their patience Caribbean Islands. and editorial wisdom. Emily Matchar Karla Zimmerman Thanks to Robbin Whachell, Lyndah Wells, Mega-thanks to Lisa Beran and Tamara Beran Lanelle Phillips, Harry Bahama, Kaybel Taylor Robinson for helping research the Painkill- and Erika and Ed Gates for their excellent ers and piña coladas. Thanks the following Grand Bahama info. Thanks to Eugene at the people for sharing their local knowledge: Don Pineville Motel in Andros for sharing his vast Near, Mr Frett, Dmitri at Magens Bay, Mat- local knowledge. Thanks to Katie and Grant thew Telesford and Bailey at Udder Delight. at the Bimini Sands, for their great Bimini and Extreme gratefulness to Lonely Planet’s Ryan Andros tips. Thanks to Laurie Costanza, my Ver Berkmoes, Cat Craddock and Bruce Loyalist Cays partner in crime. And thanks as Evans for advice and patience. Thanks most always to Jamin Asay for being my compan- of all to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best ion in travel and life. partner-for-life, for ecocamping. Brandon Presser Once again too many names, too little space. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Sincere thanks to Lynn Costenaro, Andries Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Bonnema, Grant Gilmore, Trudy Nixon, Sue World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Ricketts, Jean-Philippe, travel pal Greg and Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System St Joanne. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Cat, Sciences, 11, 1633 44. RVB, and the rest of the exceptional publish- ing team. Cover photograph: Boat in the Caribbean Brendan Sainsbury Sea, Corbis/Photolibrary. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, weather Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanet forecasters, paladar owners, wandering images.com. troubadours and innocent bystanders who 890 THIS BOOK Masters, Jens Porup, Brandon Managing Layout De- Presser, Brendan Sainsbury, signer Chris Girdler This 6th edition of Lonely Ellee Thalheimer and Karla Assisting Editors Andrew Planet’s Caribbean Islands Zimmerman. This guidebook was Bain, Carolyn Boicos, Jessica guidebook was researched and commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Crouch, Kim Hutchins, Asha written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes Oakland office, and produced by Ioculari, Sarah Koel, Bella Li, Alan (coordinating author), Jean- the following: Murphy, Catherine Naghten, Di- Bernard Carillet, Nate Cavalieri, Commissioning Editors anne Schallmeiner, Matty Soccio, BEHIND THE SCENES Paul Clammer, Michael Grosberg, Kathleen Munnelly, Suki Gear, Gina Tsarouhas, Jeanette Wall Anna Kaminski, Beth Kohn, Catherine Craddock-Carrillo Assisting Cartographers Adam Karlin, Tom Masters, Bran- Coordinating Editor Laura Ildiko Bogdanovits, Valeska don Presser, Kevin Raub, Emily Crawford Canas, Julie Dodkins, Joelene Matchar, Tom Masters, Brendan Coordinating Cartogra- Kowalski, Andy Rojas Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte- pher Mark Griffiths Peevers, Polly Thomas, Luke Cover Research Naomi Waterson and Karla Zimmerman. Coordinating Layout De- Parker The 5th edition was researched signer Kerrianne Southway Internal Image Research and written by Ryan Ver Berk- Managing Editors Bruce Sabrina Dalbesio moes (coordinating author), Amy Evans, Annelies Mertens Thanks to Helen Christinis, C Balfour, Paul Clammer, Michael Managing Cartographer Ryan Evans, Trent Paton, Martine Grosberg, Scott Kennedy, Alison Lyall Power, Averil Robertson, Gerard Richard Koss, Josh Krist, Tom Walker, Juan Wanita NOTES 891 Anse Bertrand 486 diving & snorkeling 40-1, 136-7 892 Anse Céron 576 drinks 131, 140 Anse d’Arlet 583 environment 143 Anse de Colombier 664 festivals & events 133 Anse de Gouverneur 666 food 131, 144 Anse de Grande Saline 666-7 highlights 132 Anse La Raye 708 history 143 Anse La Roche 464 itineraries 35, 131 Anse Marcel 729 money 73, 131, 144 Anse Maurice 485 planning 130-1 Antigua & Barbuda 82, 105-29, public holidays 144 108-9, 17 shopping 68-9 A accommodations 105, 126 tourist information 131, 144 Abacos 173-6 beaches 105, 123 tours 138 accommodations 868-9, see also business hours 126 travel seasons 130 individual islands cruise-ship travel 112, 128 travel to/from 131, 144-5 children, travel with 79-80 culture 125 travel within 145 language 882, 884 diving & snorkeling 39-40, 115, visas 131 activities 22, 46-9, see also individual 118 weather 130 activities drinks 106 websites 131 air travel 50-2, 875-6, 876 food 106, 126 wildlife 143 Albert Lowe Museum 177 highlights 108-9 Asa Wright Nature Centre 779 amusement & theme parks history 123-4 Atlantis (Bahamas) 160 Aquasol Theme Park 545 itineraries 106 Atlantis Submarine 138 Aquaventure Waterpark 154 money 73, 106, 127 ATMs 871-2 Isla de Coco 303 planning 105-6 Aux Cayes (Les Cayes) 515-16 Mystic Mountain 539 public holidays 127 Andros 186-9 safety 127 B Anegada 255-7, 380 tourist information 106 Bahamas, the 83, 146-95, 148-9, Anguilla 16, 82, 90-104, 92, 16, 366 tours 129 accommodations 90, 101-2 travel seasons 105 152-3, 6, 58 activities 102 travel to/from 106, 127-8 accommodations 146, 191 beaches 16, 90, 366, 16, 366 travel within 128-9 activities 191 business hours 102 visas 106 beaches 6, 146, 161, 167-8, 177, 6 culture 101 weather 105 boat trips 155, 169, 175 diving & snorkeling 94, 99, 102 websites 106 business hours 191 festivals & events 102-3 wildlife 125-6 children, travel with 155, 191 food 91, 103 Antigua 17, 107-20, 108-9, 17 cruise-ship travel 162, 169, 193, 58 heritage trail 100 aquariums culture 189-90 highlights 92 Acuario Nacional (Dominican history 100-1 Republic) 414 diving & snorkeling 41, 155, 168, 174-5, 176, 177-8, 179, 181, itineraries 36, 91 Acuario Nacional (Havana) 303 184, 187 money 73, 91, 103 Bahamas, the 157 drinks 147 planning 90-1 Curaçao Sea Aquarium 360 environment 190 public holidays 103 Aquaventure Waterpark 154 festivals & events 164, 169, 378 tourist information 91 Archers Bay 212 food 147, 191 travel seasons 90 Arecibo Observatory 616 highlights 148 travel to/from 91, 103-4 Arikok National Wildlife Park 142 history 189 travel within 104 Arnos Vale Rd (Tobago) 793-4 itineraries 147 visas 91, 103 Arthur’s Town 187 money 73, 147, 192 weather 90 Aruba 16, 82, 130-45, 132, 136, 16 planning 146-7 websites 91 accommodations 130, 143 public holidays 192 wildlife 101 activities 136-8 shopping 69 animals, see wildlife beaches 130, 16 tourist information 147 business hours 143-4 tours 155, 157, 169 children, travel with 144 000 Map pages travel seasons 146 cruise-ship travel 135 travel to/from 147, 192-3 000 Photo pages culture 143 travel within 193-5 visas 147, 192 beaches 6, 8, 16, 20, 25, 366, 380, 6, Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust 782 websites 147 8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 366, 367, St Lucia 714 893 wildlife 190 see also individual beaches, Trinidad & Tobago 784, 792, 793, individual islands Bahía de Las Águilas 419 795, 797, 798, 803 Anse La Roche 464 Baie aux Prunes (Plum Bay) 726-7 US Virgin Islands 846 Bahía de Las Águilas 419 Baie de Pont Pierre 494-504 Black River 555-6 Bathway Beach 462 Baie du Marigot 494 Blanchisseuse 780 Baie Longue (Long Bay) 726 Cabarete 14, 433, 14 Blowing Point 96 Baie Nettlé (Nettle Bay) 727 Cable Beach 159, 161 blue beads 653 INDEX Baie Rouge 727 Crane Beach 209-10 Blue Lagoon 537-8 Baracoa 337-40 Dover Beach 206-7 Blue Mountain Peak 534 B Barbados 9, 83, 196-223, 198, Eagle Beach 16, 135, 16 Blue Mountains 534-5 9, 58 Grace Bay Beach 366, 812, 366 boat travel 877, see also boat trips, accommodations 196, 219 Grand Anse (Grenada) 456-8 cruise-ship travel, sailing & yachting beaches 196 Grande Anse (Deshaies) 487-8 within the Caribbean islands boat trips 206 Heywoods Beach 212-13 50-1, 52 books 218 Les Salines 366, 586 boat trips, see also cruise-ship travel business hours 219 Long Bay (Negril) 551 Bahamas, the 155, 169, 175 children, travel with 220 Lucaya Beach 167 Barbados 206 Magens Bay 840 cruise-ship travel 202, 58 Bonaire 227 Marigot Bay 366, 706-8, 367 culture 217-18 British Virgin Islands 240, 250 Meads Bay 96-7, 16 diving & snorkeling 41, 210, 211 Dominica 394 drinks 197 Orient Beach (La Baie Orientale) 729-30 Guadeloupe 483 environment 219 Jamaica 551, 556 Pinney’s Beach 687, 10 festivals & events 220, 378 Martinique 581 Playa Bonita 432-3 food 197, 209, 220 St Lucia 703, 710 Playa Lagún 361 highlights 198 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 721, Playa Limón 420 history 217 723, 727 Playa Luquillo 617 itineraries 197 St Vincent & the Grenadines money 73, 197, 221 Playa Pilar 329 747, 753 planning 196-7 Playa Rincón 427 Turks & Caicos 813 public holidays 221 Playas del Este 317 US Virgin Islands 853, 857 safety 220 Reduit Beach 702, 13 Bocas, the 777 shopping 69 Rendezvous Bay (Antigua) 117 Bodden Town 279-80 surfing 216 Seven Mile Beach 366, 270-8, 367 Boeri Lake 391 tourist information 197, 221 Shoal Bay East 99, 366, 366 Boiling Lake 390 tours 203, 206, 223 Taino Beach 167 Bomba’s Surfside Shack 246 travel seasons 196 Treasure Beach 11, 554, 11 Bonaire 12, 83, 224-35, 226, 12, 370 travel to/from 197, 221-2 Treasure Cay Beach 174 accommodations 224, 233 travel within 222-3 beaches, nudist beaches 224 visas 197 Antigua & Barbuda 115 boat trips 227 weather 196 Guadeloupe 484, 495 business hours 233-4 websites 197 St-Barthélemy 666 diving & snorkeling 12, 41, 231, wildlife 218-19 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 729 12, 370 Barbuda 120-9, 380, 121 Beauséjour 499 festivals & events 27 bargaining 71 Bequia 746-50 food 225, 234 baseball 315, 323, 417, 442 bicycle travel, see cycling highlights 226 Basse-Pointe 577-8 Biminis 188 history 233 Basse-Terre (Guadeloupe) 14, 486-92, bird-watching itineraries 35, 225 491, 14 Adventure Farm and Nature money 73, 225, 234 Basseterre (St Kitts) 675-80, 678 Reserve 793 planning 224-5 Bathsheba 215-16 Asa Wright Nature Centre 779 public holidays 234 Bathway Beach 462 Caroni Bird Sanctuary 782 tourist information 225 batik 187 Cayman Islands 282, 284 tours 227 Batista, Fulgencio 341 Cuba 344 travel seasons 224 Bávaro 420-4, 422 Frigate Bird Sanctuary 122 travel to/from 225, 234 Bay of Pigs 320, 341-2 Great Bird Island 114 travel within 234-5 Bayahibe 425 Millet Bird Sanctuary 707 visas 225 Bonaire continued C Castries 699-701, 702, 700 894 weather 224 Cabarete 14, 433-8, 14 Castro, Fidel 332, 341, 342 websites 225 Cable Beach (Bahamas) 159, 161 Castro, Raúl 342 wildlife 233 Caicos Islands 812-22 Cat Island 187 Bonaire National Marine Park 231 Caledonia Rain Forest 858 caves books 19 Calibishie 396-7 Andros 187 Barbados 218 California Lighthouse 141 Bahamas, the 172, 181 diving & snorkeling 41 calypso music 372, 801 Barbuda 123 INDEX Bosque Estatal de Guánica 626 Camagüey 327-9 Cayman Islands 279 Boston Bay 538 Cane Garden Bay 243-6 Cuba 318 botanical gardens, see gardens & Canouan 751-2 Puerto Rico 616 B-C parks canyoning Cayman Brac 281-3, 284 Bottom, the 641 Cayman Islands 10, 83, 265-90, 267, Bourg des Saintes 494-504 Dominica 391 10, 367, 380 Brasso Seco 781 Dominican Republic 438 accommodations 265, 288 Bridgetown 199-203, 200 Guadeloupe 492 beaches 265, 271, 284, 366, 367 Brighton Farmers Market 215 Capesterre 498-9 business hours 288 Brimstone Hill Fortress 376, 683, 376 Capesterre-Belle-Eau 489 children, travel with 288-9 British Virgin Islands 7, 83, 236-64, Cap-Haïtien 516-18 238, 7, 370 car travel 877-8 cruise-ship travel 271 accommodations 236, 259-60 Caracas Bay Island 360 culture 287 beaches 236 Carapichaima 781-2 diving & snorkeling 41-2, 271-3, boat trips 240, 250 Carbet 575 282, 285, 380 business hours 260 Carenage, the 7, 452 drinks 266 children, travel with 260 Carib Territory 398-9 festivals & events 31, 378 cruise-ship travel 242, 262 Carnival 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 13, 378 food 266, 289 culture 258 Anguilla 102 highlights 267 diving & snorkeling 41, 240, 249, Antigua 29 history 287 250, 251, 256, 260, 370 Aruba 133 itineraries 33, 266 drinks 237 Cuba 29 money 73, 266, 289 environment 259 Curaçao 27, 363 planning 265-6 festivals & events 31, 240, 250 Dominica 27 public holidays 289 highlights 238 Dominican Republic 26, 414, 443 tourist information 266 food 237, 257, 260 Grenada 29 tours 274-5 history 257-8 Guadeloupe 477-8 travel seasons 265 itineraries 32, 237 Haiti 27 travel to/from 266, 289-90 money 73, 237, 261 Jamaica 531 travel within 290 planning 236-7 Martinique 27, 572 visas 266 public holidays 261 weather 265 tourist information 237 Puerto Rico 27, 28 websites 266 travel seasons 236 Saba 644 wildlife 280, 288 travel to/from 237, 261-3 Sint Eustatius 647 Cayo Guillermo 329 travel within 264 St-Barthélemy 669 Cayo Levantado 424 visas 237, 261 St Kitts & Nevis 679 Cays, the (Turks & Caicos) 818-19 weather 236 St Lucia 699 websites 237 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 732 cell phones 872 wildlife 259 St Vincent & the Grenadines 741 cemeteries Buccoo 791-2 Trinidad 378, 770-1, 775, 13, 378 Cementerio Santa Ifigenia 333 budgeting 18, 72-4 US Virgin Islands 839, 847 Jewish cemetery (Nevis) 686 accommodations 868 Carriacou 463-6 Jewish cemetery (Sint Eustatius) cruises 55-9 Cascada El Limón 424, 429-30 649 diving & snorkeling 40 Case-Pilote 574-5 Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón 302 weddings 67 cash 872, see also money Chaguanas 781 bus travel 877 casinos Chaguaramas 776-8 business hours, see individual islands Hotel Santo Domingo 418 Champagne Beach 392 US Virgin Islands 856 Charlestown 685-7 Castara 794 Charlotte Amalie 836-42, 838 Castillo de la Real Fuerza 294 Charlotteville 798-9 000 Map pages Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca del charters (yachting) 53, 263 000 Photo pages Morro 333 Chaudiere Pool 396 children, travel with 20, 79-81 Concord Falls 463 shopping 69 Aruba 144 consulates 869-70 tourist information 347 895 Bahamas, the 155, 191 convents & monasteries tours 325, 344 Barbados 220 Convento de la Orden de los travel seasons 291 British Virgin Islands 260 Predicadores 409-11 travel to/from 292, 348 Cayman Islands 288-9 Monasterio de San Francisco 412 travel within 348-50 Cuba 303 Mt St Benedict 778 visas 292, 347-8 Dominican Republic 414 Cooper Island 248 weather 291 Grenada 470 Coral Bay 851-2 websites 292 INDEX Guadeloupe 502 Corossol 13, 663, 13 wildlife 343 Jamaica 561 courses, see also individual activities Culebra 620-3 Martinique 588 diving 43 Culebrita 621 C-D Puerto Rico 611, 630 glass-blowing 636 Cupecoy 725 St Lucia 715 sailing 263 Curaçao 12, 84, 351-64, 353, 12 St Vincent & the Grenadines 757 yoga 163, 552, 788 accommodations 351, 363 Trinidad & Tobago 803 Crane Beach 209-10 beaches 351 Turks & Caicos 829 credit cards 871-2 business hours 363 US Virgin Islands 862 Creole (language) 885 cruise-ship travel 355, 364 Choiseul 712 cricket culture 362-3 Christiansted 852-6 Antigua & Barbuda 113, 125 diving & snorkeling 42, 361 churches & cathedrals, see also con- Barbados 218 drinks 352 vents & monasteries Montserrat 598 environment 363 Camagüey 328 Sir Vivian Richards Cricket Ground festivals & events 27, 363 Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la 113 food 352, 363 Asunción 333, 338 St Kitts 677 highlights 353 Catedral de San Cristóbal de La Trinidad & Tobago 801-2 history 362 Habana 294 Croix des Bouquets 513-14 itineraries 35, 352 Catedral de San Juan 607 Crop-Over Festival 220, 378, 378 money 73, 352, 363 Catedral Primada de América 409 Crown Point 786-91 planning 351 Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception 699 cruise-ship travel 54-64, 58, 61, 62, public holidays 363-4 see also individual islands Cathédrale de St-Pierre et St-Paul tourist information 352 477 costs 55-9 tours 355 Chapel of Alto Vista 141 cruise lines 60-4 travel seasons 351 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de las environmental issues 63 travel to/from 352, 364 Mercedes 411 ports of call 55, 56-7 travel within 364 St George’s Anglican Church 384 theme cruises 64 visas 352 St John’s Cathedral (Antigua) 110 websites 59, 63 weather 351 St Michael’s Cathedral (Barba- Cruz Bay 17, 846-9, 17 websites 352 dos) 199 Cuba 9, 83, 291-350, 293, 9 wildlife 363 St Patrick’s Catholic Cathedral 385 accommodations 291, 343-4 currency 19, 871, see also money St Paul’s Anglican Church (Anti- activities 344 customs regulations 869 gua) 117 beaches 291, 317, 318 cycling 877 Chutes du Carbet 489-90 business hours 344 Bonaire 227 chutney music 801 children, travel with 303 Grenada 457 cigars culture 9, 342-3 Jamaica 535, 540 Dominican Republic 418 diving & snorkeling 42, 320, 344 Puerto Rico 610, 619 Fábrica de Tabacos Constantino drinks 292, 368 St Kitts & Nevis 687 Pérez Carrodegua 322 embassies 345 St Lucia 709, 712 Graycliff Cigar Co 152 festivals & events 26 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 734 Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás 299 food 292, 345 Tour de la Martinique 589 circuses 303 highlights 293 Trinidad & Tobago 777, 786, 792 Citadelle, the 518 history 340-2 climate 18, 18, 870, see also indi- itineraries 33, 292 D vidual islands money 73, 292, 346 Damajagua 434 Cocal, the 783 music 343 dancehall music 559-60 Cockburn Town 10, 822-5, 10 planning 291-2 dangers, see safety Codrington 122 public holidays 346 dengue fever 880 conch 77 safety 344-5 Puerto Rico 630 Dennery 712 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 721 highlights 408 896 Deshaies 14, 487-9, 14 St Vincent & the Grenadines 45, history 440-1 Dessalines, Jean-Jacques 518-19 741, 747, 751, 753, 754 itineraries 407 Diamant 583-4 Trinidad & Tobago 45, 786, 790, money 73, 407, 445 798 Dickenson Bay 113-14 planning 406-7 Turks & Caicos 45, 813, 820, 826 Dieppe Bay Town 682 public holidays 445 Underwater Explorers Society disabilities, travelers with 873 shopping 69 (UNEXSO) 168 Antigua & Barbuda 127 tourist information 407

INDEX US Virgin Islands 17, 45, 843-4, tours 421, 428, 431, 435, 438 Bahamas, the 192 846, 847, 850, 854, 856, 17 travel seasons 406 Puerto Rico 631 Dogs, the 248 Saba 645 travel to/from 407, 446-7

D-E dolphins 374, 375 St Kitts & Nevis 693 travel within 447-8 British Virgin Islands 243 St Lucia 716 visas 446 Cayman Islands 278 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 733 weather 406 Guadeloupe 491 St Vincent & the Grenadines 758 websites 407 St Lucia 699 Trinidad & Tobago 805 wildlife 443 Turks & Caicos 817 Turks & Caicos 830 donkeys Dominica 8, 84, 381-405, 383, 8 US Virgin Islands 864 Antigua Donkey Sanctuary 119 accommodations 381, 401-2 diving & snorkeling 20, 22, 39-45, Donkey Sanctuary (Aruba) 141-2 beaches 381 12, 17, 380 Donkey Sanctuary (Bonaire) 233 boat trips 394 Anguilla 94, 99, 102 US Virgin Islands 851 business hours 402 Antigua & Barbuda 39-40, 115, 118 Dover Beach 206-7 cruise-ship travel 387, 404, 413 Aruba 40-1, 136-7 drinks 368, 369, see also rum, culture 400-1 Bahamas, the 41, 155, 168, 174-5, individual islands diving & snorkeling 42, 386, 392, 176, 177-8, 179, 181, 184, 187 driving, see car travel 393, 395 Barbados 41, 210, 211 Dunmore Town 179 drinks 382 Bonaire 12, 41, 231, 12 Dutch (language) 885 ecotourism passes 403 books 41 Duvalier, François 519 environment 401 British Virgin Islands 41, 240, 249, 250, 251, 256, 260 food 382, 402 Cayman Islands 41-2, 271-3, 282, highlights 383 E 285, 380 history 399-400 Eagle Beach 16, 135, 16 costs 40 itineraries 38, 382 earthquake (Haiti) 511, 523-5 courses 43 money 73, 382, 403 East Caicos 821 Cuba 42, 320, 344 planning 381-2 East End (St Thomas) 842-6 Curaçao 42, 361 public holidays 403 East End (Tortola) 246-7 Dominica 42, 386, 392, 393, 395 sustainable travel 78 El Morro 376, 604-5 Dominican Republic 42, 421, 427-8, tourist information 382 El Yunque (Cuba) 338 430-1, 432, 435 tours 386 El Yunque (Puerto Rico) 617 Grenada 42-3, 456, 459, 460, 464 travel seaons 381 Elbow Cay 176-7 Guadeloupe 43, 483, 491-2, 495 travel to/from 382, 403 Eleuthera 179-83 Haiti 521 travel within 404-5 embassies 869-70 Jamaica 43, 539-40, 546, 551, 561 visas 382 Emerald Pool 399 Martinique 43, 576, 581, 582, 584-5 weather 381 emergencies Montserrat 596 websites 382 language 883, 884 Puerto Rico 44, 609, 618, 621, wildlife 401 English Harbour 116-19 626, 629 Dominican Republic 84, 406-48, 408 Englishman’s Bay 794-5 Saba 44, 637-8 accommodations 406, 443-4 entertainment 23, 25, see also safety 42, 44, 881 beaches 406, 419, 420, 433 individual locations Sint Eustatius 44, 646, 650-1 business hours 444 environmental issues 75-6, see also sustainable travel St-Barthélemy 661, 664, 666, children, travel with 414 Aruba 143 668-9 culture 441-2 Bahamas, the 190 St Kitts & Nevis 44, 677-8, 680, diving & snorkeling 42, 421, 427-8, 687-8 430-1, 432, 435 Barbados 219 St Lucia 45, 703, 705, 707, 710 drinks 407 British Virgin Islands 259 environment 443 climate change 875 festivals & events 414, 435, 443, cruise-ship travel 63 000 Map pages 444 Curaçao 363 000 Photo pages food 407, 444 Dominica 401 Dominican Republic 443 Jamaica 561 Fort King George 795 Haiti 521 St-Barthélemy 661 Fort Louis 725 897 Saba 643 St Lucia 699 Fort Louis Delgrès 491 St Vincent & the Grenadines 756-7 Trinidad & Tobago 777, 798 Fort Napoléon 494 Trinidad & Tobago 802 Turks & Caicos 813, 824 Fort Oranje (Bonaire) 227 US Virgin Islands 861-2 US Virgin Islands 844 Fort Oranje (Sint Eustatius) 648-9 exchange rates 871 Five Islands Peninsula 114-15 Fort Shirley (Antigua) 117 Exuma Cays 184 Flamands 663-4 Fort Shirley (Dominica) 394-5 INDEX Exumas 183-6 flamingos 374, 2, 374 Fort St-Louis 571 Bahamas, the 153 Fort Zoutman 133 Bonaire 230, 231, 232 Fortaleza de San Carlos de la F Cabaña 299 E-G Falmouth 550 British Virgin Islands 256 Fortaleza Ozama 411 ferry travel 50-1, 52, 877 Haiti 521 Fuerte Matachín 337-8 festivals & events 26-31, 378, 13, 30, Turks & Caicos 819-20 Fuerte San Cristóbal 376, 605, 377 378, see also Carnival, music Flat Point 635-6 festivals, regattas, sporting events flowers Fuerte San Felipe del Morro (El Morro) 376, 604-5 Anguilla Summer Festival 102 Flower Forest of Barbados 214 Mural de la Prehistoria 318 BVI Emancipation Festival 240 Martinique 583 Pigeon Island National Landmark Calabash International Literary Valombreuse Floral Park 489 705 Festival 562 food 368, see also individual Ruinas del Hospital San Nicolás Caribbean Heritagefest 532 locations de Barí 412 Crop-Over Festival 220, 378, 378 language 883, 884 Sint Eustatius 649 Festival of St-Barth 669 sustainable travel 75, 76 Frederiksted 836, 857-8 Festival San Sebastián 610, 30 Fort Bay 642 Freeport 166-72, 168 Foxy’s New Year’s Eve Party 31 Fort Berkley 117 French (language) 882-3 Holetown Festival 220 Fort Charlotte (Bahamas) 153 French Cul-de-Sac 729 International Sand Castle Competi- Fort Charlotte (St Vincent) 741 Frenchman’s Cove 537 tion 435 Fort Fincastle 151 Freshwater Lake 391 Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Fort James 112-13 Friar’s Bay 727 Days) 29-30 Fort Oranje (Bonaire) 227 Friendship Bay 749 Junkanoo 164, 169, 378, 378 Fort-de-France 570-4, 570 Frigate Bay 680-1 National Independence Festival of forts & ruins 23, 376, 376, 377, see Frigate Bird Sanctuary 122 Creative Arts 220 also historic buildings & sites Oistins Fish Festival 27, 220 Brimstone Hill Fortress 376, 683, Fuerte San Cristóbal 376, 605, 377 Pirates Week 31, 378 376 Fuerte San Felipe del Morro (El Morro) 376, 604-5 St Patrick’s Week 27 Castillo de la Real Fuerza 294 full-moon parties 246, 247 Semana Santa 444 Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Séu Parade 27, 363 Magnos del Morro 299 fungi music 258, 861 Simadan 27 Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca Fustic 213 SoFo Culinary Festival 610 del Morro 333 Statia Day 647 El Morro 376, 604-5 G St-Barth Film Festival 669 Fort Amsterdam 354 galleries, see also museums Trinidad Carnival 13, 378, 770-1, Fort Barrington 115 Museo de Arte de Ponce 624 775, 13, 378 Fort Bennett 792 Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico 607 Triumph of the Revolution 26 Fort Berkley 117 Museo de Arte Moderno (Domini- Vincy Mas 741 Fort Charles 533, 376 can Republic) 414 Virgin Gorda Easter Festival 250 Fort Charlotte (Bahamas) 153 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Fig Tree Drive (Antigua) 116 Fort Charlotte (St Lucia) 699 301 films 19 For Charlotte (St Vincent) 741 Museum of Haitian Art 510 St-Barth Film Festival 669 Fort Christian 837 National Art Gallery of the Baha- fishing 47 Fort Christiansvaern 853 mas 152 Bahamas, the 155-7, 168, 173, 174, Fort de Windt 653 National Gallery of Jamaica 529 175, 187 Fort Fincastle 151 National Gallery of the Cayman Islands 271 British Virgin Islands 256 Fort Frederick 453-4 National Museum & Art Gallery Cayman Islands 273-4 Fort Frederik 858 (Trinidad) 770 Cuba 329, 344 Fort George (Grenada) 452 Underwater Sculpture Park 457 Dominican Republic 421 Fort George (Jamaica) 536 Willemstad 359 Grand Turk Game Fishing Fort Gustave 661 Garden of the Groves 167 Tournament 829 Fort James 112-13 gardens & parks Glistening Waters 551 tourist information 450 898 Andromeda Botanic Gardens 215 golf 47 tours 471-2 Ardastra Gardens, Zoo & Anguilla 97 travel seasons 449 Conservation Center 153 Antigua 114 travel to/from 450, 472 Botanical Gardens (Port of Spain) Bahamas, the 47, 168 travel within 451, 472-3 769-70 Barbados 47, 208 visas 450 Botanical Gardens (Tobago) 795 Cayman Islands 47, 274 weather 449 Botanical Gardens of Nevis 689 Dominican Republic 47, 421 websites 450

INDEX Diamond Mineral Baths & Botanical Guadeloupe 47, 483 wildlife 469 Gardens 709 St Kitts & Nevis 47, 681, 688 Emancipation Garden 837 Grenadines, the 9, 746-55, 738, 9 St Lucia 47, 706 Grenville 461

G-H Garden of the Groves 167 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 724 Jardín Botánico Nacional (Santo Gros Islet 702-5 Domingo) 413 Gosier 480-1 Gros Piton 710 Jardin Botanique du Carbet 575 Gouyave 462-3 grouper 77 Jardin de Balata 577 Governor’s Harbour 182-3 Guadeloupe 14, 84, 474-506, 476, 14 JR O’Neal Botanic Gardens 239 Grace Bay Beach 366, 812, 366 accommodations 474, 501 Mamiku Gardens 712 Grand Anse (Grenada) 456-8 beaches 474, 484, 14 Miriam C Schmidt Botanical Grand Bahama 165-73, 166 boat trips 483 Gardens 653 Grand Bay 393 business hours 501-2 Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park Grand Case 727-9 children, travel with 502 (Grand Cayman) 280 Grand Cayman 268-81, 268 cruise-ship travel 480, 504 Queen’s Park Savannah 769 Grand Cul-de-Sac 666 culture 500-1 Roseau 384 Grand Étang 489-90 diving & snorkeling 43, 483, St George Village Botanical Garden Grand Riviere 784-5 491-2, 495 859 Grand Turk 822-5, 823 drinks 475 St Vincent Botanic Gardens 741 Grand-Bourg 497 festivals & events 477-8 Valombreuse Floral Park 489 Grande Anse (Deshaies) 487-8 food 475 Woodford Square 771 Grande Anse (Martinique) 582-3 highlights 476 gay & lesbian travelers 870 Grande-Terre (Guadeloupe) 477-86 history 499-500 Antigua & Barbuda 126 Grand-Rivière 578 itineraries 475 Bahamas, the 191 Graycliff Cigar Co 152 money 73, 475, 503 Barbados 220 Great Abaco Barrier Reef 178 planning 474-5 British Virgin Islands 260 Great Guana Cay 178 public holidays 503 Cayman Islands 289 Great Harbour (Jost Van Dyke) safety 477 cruises 64 253-4 tourist information 475 Cuba 345 Greater Antilles 51 travel seasons 474 Dominica 402 Green Turtle Cay 177-8 travel to/from 475, 503-4 Grenada 470 Gregory Town 181-2 travel within 504-6 Guadeloupe 502 Grenada 7, 84, 449-73, 451, 453, visas 475, 503 Haiti 522-3 7, 380 weather 474 Jamaica 562-3 accommodations 449, 469-70 websites 475 Martinique 589 beaches 380, 449, 380 wildlife 501 Puerto Rico 630 business hours 470 Guavate 623 Saba 644 children, travel with 470 guesthouses 868 St-Barthélemy 669 cruise-ship travel 456, 472 St Kitts & Nevis 692 Guevara, Ernesto ‘Che’ 321, 322, 341 culture 469 St Lucia 715 Gun Hill 214 diving & snorkeling 42-3, 456, 459, St Vincent & the Grenadines 757 Gustavia 661-3 460, 464 Trinidad & Tobago 804 drinks 450 Turks & Caicos 829 food 450, 470 H US Virgin Islands 863 Habana Vieja 294-8, 296-7 highlights 451 geography 51 history 467-9 Haiti 17, 84, 507-25, 509, 17 George Town (Bahamas) 183 itineraries 38, 450 accommodations 507, 521 George Town (Cayman Islands) activities 521 270-8, 272 money 73, 450, 471 planning 449-50 beaches 507, 517 public holidays 471 business hours 521 culture 520 000 Map pages safety 470 diving & snorkeling 521 000 Photo pages shopping 69 drinks 508 earthquake 511, 523-5 Guadeloupe 48, 486, 490-1, Parc Archéologique des Roches embassies 522 492 Gravées 490 899 environment 521 Haiti 48, 514, 521 Parque de Bombas 624 food 508, 522 Jamaica 48, 534, 534-5, 537 Parque Histórico Militar health 523, 880 Martinique 48, 576, 578 Morro-Cabaña 299 highlights 509 Montserrat 48, 596-7 Paseo de la Princesa 605 history 518-20 Nevis Heritage Trail 685 Pedro St James 279 itineraries 508 Pico Duarte 437 Pigeon Island National Landmark 705 INDEX language 885 Puerto Rico 48, 621-2, 630 Plaza de la Revolución 302 money 74, 508, 523 Saba 15, 48, 638, 640-1 Port Royal 376, 533, 376 planning 507-8 Sint Eustatius 48, 651, 653 Public Library (Roseau) 384 H-I public holidays 523 St-Barthélemy 48 Romney Manor 683 safety 510, 522 St Kitts & Nevis 48, 685, 689 Rose Hall Great House 549-50 tourist information 508 St Lucia 48, 709-10, 710, 712 Salt River Bay National Historic tours 525 St Vincent & the Grenadines 48, 745, 747 Park 856 travel seasons 507 Trinidad & Tobago 48, 779, 780, Sans Souci 518 travel to/from 508, 524 781, 784, 792, 795 Shirley Heights 117, 119 travel within 524-5 US Virgin Islands 48, 846, 849, St Nicholas Abbey 213 visas 508 851, 853 Zona Colonial 409-13, 410 weather 507 Hillsborough 463-5 history, see individual islands websites 508 historic buildings & sites 22, 376, see hitchhiking 878 wildlife 521 also forts & ruins, plantations, HIV/AIDS 881 Half Moon Bay 119 World Heritage sites Holetown 210-11 Happy Bay 726 Annaberg Sugar Mill Ruins 849 holidays 872 Harbour Island 179-81 Bath Hotel & Spring House 686 honeymoons 65-7 Hastings 204 Bibliothèque Schoelcher 570 Hope Town 176 Havana 294-317, 300, 304-5, 9 Blackbeard’s Castle 837 horse racing accommodations 303-10 Bloody Point 683 Beaumont Park 684 attractions 294-302 Brimstone Hill Fortress 376, 683, 376 Indian Castle Race Track 689 cruise-ship travel 295 Camagüey 327-9 horseback riding drinking 312-13 Capitolio Nacional 298-9 Aruba 137-8 entertainment 313-15 Casa Blanca 607 Barbados 208 food 310-12 Casa de Diego Velázquez 332 Cayman Islands 274 money 316 Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca Cuba 325 shopping 315 del Morro 333 Dominican Republic 421, 428, 438 tours 302-3, 316-17 Christiansted National Historic Jamaica 540 travel to/from 316 Site 853 St-Barthélemy 663 travel within 316-17 Citadelle, the 518 St Kitts & Nevis 688 Hawksbill Bay 115 Cuartel Moncada 333 St Lucia 706 health 879-81 Devon House 531 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 730 Hell 278 Elbow Cay Lighthouse 176 Trinidad & Tobago 786 Hell’s Gate 636 Faro a Colón 413 Turks & Caicos 824 hepatitis A 880-1 Garrison Savannah Area 203 hotels 868 Heywoods Beach 212-13 George Washington House 202-3 Hurricane Dean 587 hiking & walking 48 Government House (Bahamas) Hurricane Hugo 598 Antigua & Barbuda 48, 116, 118 152 Hurricane Ivan 468 Aruba 48, 137, 142 Greenwood Great House 550 Bahamas, the 48 Habana Vieja 294-8, 296-7 Barbados 48, 214 Hamilton Estate 686 I Bonaire 48 La Fortaleza 605 iguanas 374, 34, 374 British Virgin Islands 48 Loyalist Cottage 179 Île-à-Vache 376, 516 Cayman Islands 48, 280, 282 Magnificent Seven 769 Îlet Pinel 728 Cuba 48, 318-19, 325, 338, 340, Mission House (Grand Cayman) immigration 875 344 279 insurance 870-1, 879 Dominica 48, 390, 391, 392, 394, Mt Alvernia Hermitage 187 internet access 871 399 Nelson’s Dockyard 117, 17 Isla Culebrita 621 Dominican Republic 48, 438 Old San Juan 14, 376, 604-7, itineraries 32-8, 32, 33, 35, 36, 38, Grenada 48, 461 606, 14 see also individual locations J Grenada 49 Little Cayman 283-7, 380, 284 900 Jacmel 514-15 Jamaica 556 Little Harbour (Jost Van Dyke) 255 Jamaica 11, 85, 526-66, 528, 11, Montserrat 49 Long Bay (Antigua) 120 379, 368 Puerto Rico 49, 618 Long Bay (Jamaica) 538 accommodations 526, 560 St-Barthélemy 664 Long Bay (Negril) 551 activities 561 St Kitts & Nevis 687 Long Island 188 beaches 11, 526, 539, 545, 554, 11 St Lucia 706, 707, 713 Lorient 665-6 boat trips 551, 556 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 730 Lower Bay 749 INDEX business hours 561 Turks & Caicos 813 Lucaya 166-72, 170 children, travel with 561 US Virgin Islands 49, 843, 847, 856 Lucaya Beach 167 cruise-ship travel 540, 564 Kingston 529-34, 530, 531 Lucayan National Park 172-3 J-M culture 557-60 Kingstown 739-44, 742 Luquillo 617 diving & snorkeling 43, 539-40, kitesurfing 49, 14 546, 551, 561 Antigua & Barbuda 114 M drinks 527 Aruba 137 Maho 724-5, 11 embassies 562 Bahamas, the 184 Major Cay 185 festivals & events 378, 531-2, 546, Barbados 208 Man O’ War Cay 178 562, 379 Cayman Islands 279 manatees 374 food 527, 562, 368 Dominican Republic 14, 430-1, manchineel trees 873 highlights 528 433-4, 14 Manzanilla 783 history 556-7 Master of the Ocean 26 Maracas Bay 779-80 itineraries 527 St Lucia 706, 712 María la Gorda 320 language 563 Turks & Caicos 818 Marie-Galante 496-8 money 74, 527, 563 Kleine St Michiel 360 Marigot 398, 723, 725-6 planning 526-7 Kralendijk 227-30, 228 Marigot Bay 366, 706-8, 367 public holidays 563-4 marine parks, see also national parks safety 533, 542, 549, 553, 561-2 & nature reserves shopping 69 L La Désirade 498-9 Barbados Marine Reserve 210 tourist information 527 La Soufrière 490-1 Bloody Bay Marine Park 285 tours 540 La Vega 443 Bonaire National Marine Park 231 travel seasons 526 Lac Bay 232 Buck Island Reef National travel to/from 527, 564 Ladder Bay 642 Monument 857 travel within 564-6 Lance aux Épines 459-60 Coral World Ocean Park 842-3 visas 564 language 882-7 National Underwater Park weather 526 (Curaçao) 361 Creole (Haiti) 885 websites 527 Réserve Cousteau 491-2 Dutch 885 wildlife 560 Virgin Islands National Park 846-7 French 882-3 Jarabacoa 438-40 Marley, Bob patois (Jamaica) 563 Jérémie 516 events 26 Spanish 883-5 Jolly Harbour 115-16 Marley Resort 159 Trinidad & Tobago 769 Josephine 580-1 museums 530-1, 543, Las Cuevas 780 373 Jost Van Dyke 253-5, 7 Trench Town Culture Yard 529-30 Las Galeras 427-9 Junkanoo 164, 169, 378, 379 Marsh Harbour 174-6 Las Terrazas 317 Martha Brae 550-1 Las Terrenas 429-32, 430 Martí, José 298, 299, 302, 341 K Latin Music Festival 29, 414 Martinique 8, 85, 567-92, , kayaking 48-9 Le Chameau 495 569 8 accommodations 567, 588 Antigua & Barbuda 48 Le Galion 730 Aruba 49, 137 Le Moule 484-5 beaches 366, 567, 8 Bahamas, the 49, 181 Leeward Hwy 745-6 boat trips 581 Bonaire 49, 232 Leeward Islands 51 business hours 588 British Virgin Islands 49, 256 Leeward Rd (Tobago) 792-3 children, travel with 588 Cayman Islands 49, 273 Les Cayes (Aux Cayes) 515-16 cruise-ship travel 572 Dominica 49 Les Saintes 492-6 culture 587-8 Les Salines 366, 586 diving & snorkeling 43, 576, 581, 582, 584-5 lesbian travelers, see gay & lesbian travelers drinks 568 000 Map pages Lesser Antilles 51 festivals & events 29-30, 572, 589 000 Photo pages Levera Beach 462 flora 583 food 568, 589 festivals & events 27 Edgar Clerc Archeological Museum highlights 569 food 594, 597, 599 485 901 history 586-7 highlights 595 Firefly 543 itineraries 38, 568 history 597-8 George Washington House 202-3 money 74, 568, 589 itineraries 594 Government House (British Virgin Islands) 239 planning 567-8 money 74, 594, 599 Grenada National Museum 452 public holidays 589-90 planning 593-4 Heritage Museum (Anguilla) 100 safety 590 public holidays 599 Iglesia y Monasterio de San INDEX shopping 69 safety 599 Francisco de Asís 295 tourist information 568, 590 tourist information 594 Indian Caribbean Museum 781-2 tours 572, 581 tours 600 Indigenous Rastafarian Village 546 M travel seasons 567 travel seasons 593 Institute of Jamaica 529 travel to/from 568, 590 travel to/from 594, 599-600 Jewish Cultural-Historical Museum travel within 591-2 travel within 600 354 visas 568, 590 visas 594 Larimar Museum 409 weather 567 weather 593 Little Cayman Museum 284 websites 568 websites 594 Mangazina di Rei 231 wildlife 588 wildlife 598 Maqueta de La Habana Vieja 295 Mary’s Point 642 Morne Diablotin National Park 394 Memorial a José Martí 302 Matura 784 Morne Diablotin Trail 394 Monumento a la Toma del Tren Mayaro 783 Morne Fortune 699 Blindado 322 Mayreau 380, 752, 380 Morne Rouge 458 Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara McLean’s Town 173 Morne Trois Pitons National Park 321 390-2 Meads Bay 96-7, 16 Musée de la Banane 579 mosquitoes 881 measures 874 Musée Départemental motorcycle travel 877-8 d’Archéologie (Martinique) 571 medical services 880 movies 19 Musée du Panthéon National 510 merengue 372, 414, 442 Mt Alvernia 187 Musée du Rhum (Guadeloupe) 489 Mero 393-4 Mt Scenery 640-1 Musée Volcanologique 575 Micoud 712 Mt St Benedict 778-9 Museo Alcázar de Colón 409 Middle Caicos 821-2 Mt Standfast 211 Museo Arqueológico ‘La Cueva del Miriam C Schmidt Botanical Gar- Paraíso’ 337 dens 653 Mullet Bay 724-5 Museo Casa Natal de Ignacio mobile phones 872 Mullins Beach 212 museums, see also galleries Agramonte 328 monasteries, see convents & Albert Lowe Museum 177 Museo de Ambiente Histórico monasteries Cubano 332 Alexander Hamilton Museum 685 money 18, 19, 871-2, see also Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico 607 budgeting, individual islands Amerindian Museum 779 Museo de Comandancia del Che Aruba Archaeological Museum mongooses 851 299 133 monkeys 374 Museo de la Ciudad 294 Aruba Historical Museum 133 Mont Pelée 577, 578, 587 Museo de la Revolución 301 Barbados Museum 202 Montbars, Daniel 664 Museo de las Américas 605 Bob Marley Museum 530-1, 373 Montego Bay 540, 543-9, 544 Museo de las Casas Reales 409 Bonaire Museum 227 accommodations 546-7 Museo de Naipes 298 Carriacou Museum 463-4 activities 546 Museo de Navegación 294-5 Cayman Brac Museum 282 attractions 545-6 Museo de Piratería 333 Cayman National Museum 270 drinking 548 Museo de San Juan 605 food 547-8 Centre de Découverte des Sciences de la Terre 575 Museo de San Juan de Dios 327-8 safety 549 Chaguaramas Military History & Museo del Hombre Dominicano 413 shopping 548-9 Aerospace Museum 776 Museo del Niño 605-7 travel to/from 549 Cuartel Moncada 333 Museo del Ron 295 travel within 549 Curaçao Maritime Museum 355 Museo Histórico Municipal Montserrat 85, 593-600, 595 Curaçao Museum 354 (Trinidad, Cuba) 324 accommodations 593, 597, 598 Devon House 531 Museo Mundo de Ambar 409 beaches 593 Dockyard Museum (Nelson’s Museo Municipal (Baracoa) 337-8 business hours 599 Dockyard) 117 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes culture 598 Dominica Museum 384 301 diving & snorkeling 596 Dows Hill Interpretation Centre Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra Bandidos 324 drinks 594 (Antigua) 117 museums continued N Parque Nacional Viñales 318-21 902 Museo Romántico 324 Nassau 150-66, 156, 158 Pigeon Pond & Frenchman’s Creek Museo Tula 361 accommodations 157-61 Nature Reserve 813 Museo-Casa Natal de José Martí attractions 151-5 Réserve Cousteau 491-2 298 cruise-ship travel 162 Sage Mountain National Park 243-4 Museum Kura Hulanda 354 drinking 163 Tobago Forest Reserve 795 Museum of Antigua & Barbuda 107 entertainment 163-4 Topes de Collantes 325 National Museum (St Kitts) 675 food 161-3 INDEX Tucker Valley National Park 777 National Museum & Art Gallery Paradise Island 154-5, 162-3 (Trinidad) 770 Virgin Islands National Park 846-7 safety 165 Nelson Museum 685-6 Washington-Slagbaai National shopping 164-5 M-P Nevisian Heritage Village 689 Park 231-2 Nassau Public Library 151 Nidhe Israel Museum (Barbados) Welchman Hall Gully 214 199 National Art Gallery of the Bahamas Natural Pool 142 152 Nine Mile Museum 543 Necker Island 248 National Museum (St Kitts) 675 North Shore Shell Museum 244 Negril 551-4 national parks & nature reserves, Pirates of Nassau 151 see also marine parks, wildlife Nelson’s Dockyard 117, 17 Sint Eustatius Museum 649 sanctuaries & zoos Nevis 10, 685-90, 10 Sint Maarten Museum 721 Arikok National Wildlife Park 142 New Providence 150-65, 152-3 St-Martin Archaeological Museum Bahía Mosquito 617 Nicholl’s Town 187 725 Barkers National Park 279 Nine Mile 543 Tobago Museum 795 Baths, the 249 Nipper’s Beach Bar & Grill 178 Trench Town Museum 529 Bosque Estatal de Guánica 626 Nonsuch Bay 119-20 Wyannie Malone Museum 176 Buccoo Reef 790 Norman Island 248 music 21, 372, see also music Cabrits National Park 394-5 North Caicos 819-20 festivals, individual music styles Chalk Sound National Park 812 North Shore (St John, US Virgin music festivals Codrington Lagoon National Islands) 849-51 Annual Music & Cultural Festival Park 122 North Sound 252-3 (Turks & Caicos) 829 Columbus Landfall National Park Aruba Music Festival 133 823 O BVI Music Festival 244 Copper Mine National Park 249-50 Ocho Rios 538-43 Dominican Jazz Festival 435 Devil’s Bay National Park 249 Oistins 207-8, 209, 220 Easterval (Union Island) 748 El Yunque (Cuba) 338 Old San Juan 14, 367, 604-7, 606, Guitar Festival 572 El Yunque (Puerto Rico) 617 14 Jamaica Jazz & Blues Festival Farley Hill National Park 213 26, 546 opening hours, see individual Flower Forest of Barbados 214 Jazz Festival (Barbados) 220 locations Gorda Peak National Park 252 Junkanoo 164, 169, 378, 378 Oranjestad (Aruba) 133-5, 134 Graeme Hall Nature Sanctuary 205 Latin Music Festival 29, 414 Oranjestad (Sint Eustatius) 15, Grand Etang National Park 461 Maroon & String Band Festival 28 648-52, 650, 15 Indian River 394 Martinique Jazz Festival 572 Orient Beach (La Baie Orientale) La Sagesse Nature Centre 460 729-30 Moonsplash 102 Little Tobago 797 Our Lucaya Beach & Golf Resort 170-1 Red Stripe Reggae Sumfest 546 Lucayan National Park 172-3 Out Islands (Bahamas) 173-89 Reggae Sumfest 29, 378 Morne Diablotin National Park 394 Out Islands (British Virgin Islands) Santo Domingo Merengue Festival Morne Trois Pitons National Park 248 29, 414 390-2 Oyster Pond 730 St-Barth Music Festival 669 Nariva Swamp 783-4 St John Blues Festival 847 North Sound National Park 114 St Kitts Music Festival 28, 679 P Parc Archéologique des Roches Pagua Bay 398 St Lucia Jazz Festival 699 Gravées 490 Palm Island 755 Sting 532 Parc National de la Guadeloupe Tranquility Jazz Festival (Anguilla) 486-7 panyards 775 103 Parc National La Visite 514 Paradise Island 154-5, 162-3 World Creole Music Festival 30 Parc National Macaya 516 parang 802 Mustique 750 Parque Ecológico Puntacana 420-1 parasailing Parque El Cubano 325 Bahamas, the 154, 167 Parque Nacional Alejandro de Cayman Islands 273 000 Map pages Humboldt 340 Dominican Republic 420 000 Photo pages Parque Nacional Los Haitises 425 Parlatuvier 795 Parque Histórico Militar Château Dubuc 579 food 602, 623, 630 Morro-Cabaña 299 Cheshire Hall 812 highlights 603 903 Parque Nacional Alejandro de Eden Brown Estate 689 history 627-8 Humboldt 340 Estate Whim Plantation Museum itineraries 602 Parrot Cay 819 859 money 74, 602 parrots 374 Landhuis Kenepa 361-4 planning 601-2 passports 875 Morne Coubaril Estate 709 public holidays 631 patois (Jamaica) 563 Plantation Mont Vernon 729 safety 630 Paynes Bay 210 St Nicholas Abbey 213 shopping 70 INDEX Península de Samaná 424-33 Sunbury Plantation House 216-17 tourist information 602 perfume 167 Wades Green Plantation 819 tours 610 Peter Island 248 Playa Bonita 432-3 travel seasons 601 P-R Petit Martinique 380, 466-7, 380 Playa Lagún 361 travel to/from 602, 631-2 Petit Piton 710 Playa Limón 420 travel within 632 Petit St Vincent 755 Playa Pilar 329 visas 602, 631 Petit-Canal 486 Playas del Este 317 weather 601 Petite Rivière Salée 579 Point Salines 458-9 websites 602 Philipsburg 721-2, 723, 61, 62 Point Udall 856 wildlife 629 phonecards 872 Pointe de la Grande Vigie 486 Punta Cana 420-4, 422 Pic Paradis 727 Pointe des Châteaux 484 Pico Duarte 437, 438 Pointe du Bout 581-2 Pigeon Island 491-2 Pointe-à-Pitre 477-80, 478 Q quelbe music 861 Pigeon Island National Landmark 705 Pointe-Noire 487 Quill, the 653, 654-5 pigs 185, 851 Ponce 623-6, 624, 28 Pinar del Río Province 317-21 Port Antonio 536-7 pirates 23, 376 Port Elizabeth 746-9 R Blackbeard’s Castle 837 Port of Spain 765-76, 766-7 rabies 881 Cayman Islands 279 accommodations 772-3 rafting Montbars, Daniel 664 attractions 769-72 Dominican Republic 438 Museo de Piratería 333 drinking 775 Jamaica 537, 550 Pirates of Nassau 151 entertainment 775-6 Rastafarianism 559 Pirates Week 31, 378 food 773-5 Indigenous Rastafarian Village 546 websites 19 safety 768-9 Red Hook 842-6 Pirates of the Caribbean 397, 745 shopping 776 Red Stripe Reggae Sumfest 546 Pirates Week 31, 378 Port Royal 376, 533, 376 Reduit Beach 702, 13 Pitch Lake 783 Port Salut 516 regattas Pitons, the 708-11 Port-au-Prince 510-13, 512 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta 125, 28 Plage de Malendure 491-2 Porte d’Enfer 485-6 Antigua Sailing Week 27, 105, planetariums 298 Portsmouth 387, 394-6 125, 25 planning 18-19, see also individual Presqu’île de Caravelle 579-80 islands Big South Regatta 821 Prickly Pear 94 activities 46-9 BVI Spring Regatta 240 Providenciales 812-18, 814 budgeting 18, 72-4 Canouan Regatta 748 public holidays 872, see also calendar of events 26-31 Easter Regatta (Bequia) 27, 748 individual islands children, travel with 79-81 Family Island Regatta 184 Puerto Rico 14, 85, 601-32, 603, 14, Golden Rock Regatta 647 cruise-ship travel 54-64 28, 30 Heineken Regatta 732 diving & snorkeling 39-45 accommodations 601, 629 International Rolex Cup Regatta health 879 beaches 601, 608-9, 618, 621 839 islands overview 82-7 business hours 630 reggae 372, 559 itineraries 32-8, 52 children, travel with 611, 630 Bob Marley Museum 530 shopping 68-71 cruise-ship travel 605, 632 Reggae Sumfest 29, 378, 546 transportation 50-3 culture 628 Trench Town Culture Yard 529-30 travel seasons 18 diving & snorkeling 44, 609, 618, Rendezvous Bay (Antigua) 117 websites 19 621, 626, 629 rental accommodations 869 weddings & honeymoons 65-7 drinks 602 Réserve Cousteau 491-2 plantations embassies 630 Annaberg Sugar Mill Ruins 849 festivals & events 26, 27, 610, resorts 13, 23, 24, 868-9, 13 Betty’s Hope 120 28, 30 Rincon (Bonaire) 230-1 Rincón (Puerto Rico) 626-7 Rio Grande Valley 537 money 74, 634, 644 food 416-17 904 Río Toa 338 planning 633-4 money 418 RMS Rhone 251 public holidays 644 shopping 418 Road Town 239-43, 240 shopping 70 tours 414 rock climbing tourist information 634, 645 travel to/from 419 Aruba 141 tours 639 travel within 419-20 Bonaire 227 travel seasons 633 Sauteurs 462 Cuba 317, 319 travel to/from 634, 645 Scarborough 773, 795-6 INDEX Rockley 204 travel within 645 scenic railways 683-4 Rodney Bay 702-5 visas 634, 645 schistosomiasis 881 Roseau 384-9, 385 weather 633 Scotts Head 392-3 R-S Roseau Valley 389-92 websites 634 Settlement 257 Route de la Trace 576-7 wildlife 643, 371 Seven Mile Beach 366, 270-8, 367 Route de la Traversée 486-7 safety 872, see also individual Shermans 213 ruins, see forts & ruins locations Shirley Heights 117, 119 rum 70, 140, 315 diving & snorkeling 42, 44, 881 Shoal Bay East 99, 366, 366 museums 295, 489, 579 hitchhiking 878 shopping 24, 68-71, see also individual locations rum distilleries 70 road 877, 878 Silver Sands 208-9 Bacardí Rum Factory 616 water 881 Simpson Bay 723-4 Callwood Rum Distillery 244 sailing & yachting 24, 46-7, 52-3, see also regattas Sint Eustatius 15, 85, 646-57, 648, 15 Captain Morgan Distillery 859 charters 53, 263 accommodations 646, 651-2, Cruzan Rum Distillery 859 courses 263 654, 655 Damoiseau Distillery 485 Salisbury 393-4 activities 650-1 Distillerie Bielle 498 Salt Cay 825-6 business hours 655 Distillerie Poisson 498 Salt Island 248 culture 654 Domaine de Bellevue 498 Samaná 413, 424-7 diving & snorkeling 44, 646, 650-1 Macoucherie Distillery 393 San Fernando 782-3 festivals & events 29, 30, 647 Malibu Beach Club & Visitor food 652, 655 Centre 203 San Juan 376, 604-16, 606, 608, 14 highlights 648 Mount Gay Rum Visitors Centre accommodations 610-12 history 654 203 activities 609-10 itineraries 647 Musée du Rhum St James 579 attractions 604-8 money 74, 647, 655 Reimonenq Distillery (Musée du beaches 608-9 planning 646-7 Rhum) 489 drinking 614 public holidays 656 River Antoine Rum Distillery 461-2 entertainment 614 travel seasons 646 St Lucia Rum Distillery 707 festivals & events 610 travel to/from 647, 656 Trois-Rivières Distillery 584 food 612-14 travel within 656-7 Rum Point 281 shopping 614 visas 656 Runaway Bay 113 tourist information 615 weather 646 tours 604, 610 websites 647 travel to/from 615 S wildlife 654-5 travel within 615-16 Saba 15, 85, 633-45, 635, 15, 371 Sint Maarten 11, 721-5, 720, 11, accommodations 633, 643-4 San Nicolas 142-3 61, 62 business hours 644 Sandy Ground (Anguilla) 94-6 Sir Vivian Richards Cricket Ground 113 culture 643 Sandy Ground (St-Martin) 727 snorkeling, see diving & snorkeling diving & snorkeling 44, 370, Sandy Island 466 soca 801-2 637-8, 371 Sans Souci (Haiti) 518 Sonido del Yaque 439 drinks 634 Sans Souci (Trinidad) 784 Soufriere (Dominica) 392 environment 643 Santa Clara 321-4 Soufrière (St Lucia) 702, 708-11 festivals & events 644 Santiago 443 Soup Bowl 215 food 633, 644 Santiago de Cuba 329-37, 330 South Caicos 821 highlights 635 Santo Domingo 409-20, 410 Spanish (language) 883-5 history 642-3 accommodations 415-16 Spanish Town 249-52 itineraries 36, 634 attractions 409-14 Speightstown 212 cruise-ship travel 413 Speyside 797-8 drinking 417 sporting events, see also regattas 000 Map pages entertainment 417-18 8 Tuff Miles 000 Photo pages festivals & events 414 Atlantic Rally for Cruisers 699 Grand Turk Game Fishing money 74, 673, 693 festivals & events 732 Tournament 829 planning 672-3 food 719, 732 905 Master of the Ocean 26, 435 public holidays 693 highlights 720 Route du Rhum 31 safety 693 history 731 St Croix Half-Ironman Triathlon tourist information 673 itineraries 36, 719 854 tours 678-9, 695 money 74, 719, 732 Semi-marathon (Martinique) 572 travel seasons 672 planning 718-19 Tour de la Martinique 589 travel to/from 673, 693-4 public holidays 732-3 Tour des Yoles Rondes 589 travel within 694-5 safety 733 INDEX sports, see individual sports visas 673 tourist information 719 Spring Bay 750 weather 672 travel seasons 718 St-Barthélemy 13, 86, 658-71, 660 websites 673 travel to/from 719, 733-4 S accommodations 658, 668 wildlife 691-2 travel within 734-5 activities 668-9 St Lawrence Gap 206-7 visas 719, 733 beaches 658 St-Louis 497-8 weather 718 business hours 669 St Lucia 13, 86, 696-717, 698, websites 719 culture 667-8 13, 367 wildlife 731-2 diving & snorkeling 661, 664, 666, accommodations 696, 714-15 St-Pierre 575-6 668-9 beaches 366, 696, 701-2, 708-9, St Thomas 836-45 festivals & events 669 13, 367 St Vincent 376, 739-46, 740 food 659, 669 boat trips 703, 710 St Vincent & the Grenadines 86, highlights 660 business hours 715 736-60, 738, 380 history 667 children, travel with 715 accommodations 736, 757-8 itineraries 36, 659 cruise-ship travel 702, 716 beaches 380, 736, 751, 380 money 74, 659, 670 culture 713-14 boat trips 747, 753 planning 658-9 diving & snorkeling 45, 703, 705, business hours 757 public holidays 670 707, 710 children, travel with 757 tours 662 drinks 697 cruise-ship travel 743 travel seasons 658 festivals & events 699 culture 756 travel to/from 659, 670-1 food 697, 715 diving & snorkeling 45, 741, 747, travel within 671 highlights 698 751, 753, 754 visas 659, 670 history 713 drinks 737 environment 756-7 weather 658 itineraries 38, 697 festivals & events 741, 748 websites 659 money 74, 697, 715 food 737, 757 wildlife 668 planning 696-7 highlights 738 St Croix 852-9 public holidays 715-16 history 755-6 St-François 483-4 shopping 71 itineraries 38, 737 St George’s 7, 452-6, 454, 7 tours 702 money 73, 737, 758 St-Jean 664-5 travel seasons 696 planning 736-7 St John (US Virgin Islands) 17, travel to/from 697, 716-17 public holidays 758 845-52, 17 travel within 717 safety 757 St John’s (Antigua) 107-12, 110 visas 697, 716 tours 744 St John’s (Saba) 641 weather 696 travel seasons 736 St Kitts 674-85, 674, 676 websites 697 travel to/from 737, 758-9 St Kitts & Nevis 86, 672-95, 674, wildlife 714 travel within 759-60 676, 10 St-Martin 725-30, 720 visas 737 accommodations 672, 692 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 11, 86, weather 736 beaches 672, 682, 687, 10 718-35, 720, 11, 61, 62 websites 737 business hours 692 accommodations 718, 732 wildlife 756 cruise-ship travel 680, 686, 694 activities 732 Statia, see Sint Eustatius culture 687, 691 beaches 718, 11 Ste-Anne 481-2, 585-6 diving & snorkeling 44, 677-8, boat trips 721, 723, 727 Ste-Luce 584-5 680, 687-8 business hours 732 Ste-Rose 489 drinks 673 cruise-ship travel 723, 734, steel pan 372, 802, 372 festivals & events 679, 686 61, 62 stingrays food 673, 692 culture 731 Stingray City (Cayman Islands) highlights 674 diving & snorkeling 721 10, 274, 10 history 690-1 drinks 719 Stingray City Antigua 120 itineraries 673 Stocking Island 184 travel to/from the Caribbean islands beaches 366, 808, 366 906 submarines 155, 274 875-6 boat trips 813 Sunset Beach Bar 11 travel within the Caribbean islands business hours 829 surfing 49, 9 50-3, 876-8 children, travel with 829 Bahamas, the 176-7, 181, 182 traveler’s checks 872 cruise-ship travel 824 Barbados 9, 49, 208, 215, Treasure Beach 11, 554-5, 11 culture 827 216, 9 Treasure Cay Beach 174 diving & snorkeling 45, 813, 820, British Virgin Islands 49, 246 Trellis Bay Full Moon Party 247 826 INDEX Dominican Republic 49, 433, Trench Town Culture Yard 529-30 drinks 809 434 Trinidad 13, 378, 763-85, 764, 13, festivals & events 829 Guadeloupe 49, 483 378 food 808, 809, 829 S-U Jamaica 49, 538, 561 Trinidad Carnival 13, 378, 770-1, 775, highlights 810-11 Martinique 579 13, 378 history 826-7 Master of the Ocean 26, 435 Trinidad (Cuba) 324-7 itineraries 809 Puerto Rico 49, 609-10, 626, Trinidad & Tobago 13, 86, 761-807, money 74, 809, 830 629 763, 13, 378 planning 808-9 Soup Bowl 215 accommodations 761, 802-3 public holidays 830 St-Barthélemy 661, 664 activities 803 travel seasons 808 Trinidad & Tobago 49, 780 beaches 761 travel to/from 809, 831 US Virgin Islands 49, 840 business hours 803 travel within 831-2 sustainable travel 75-8 children, travel wtih 803 visas 809, 830-1 cruise-ship travel 63 cruise-ship travel 773, 805 weather 808 diving & snorkeling 44 culture 800-2 websites 809 food 75, 76 diving & snorkeling 45, 786, 790, wildlife 828 synagogues 798 Turks Islands 822-6 Barbados Synagogue 199 drinks 762 turtles 371 Honen Dalim 649 embassies 803 Barbados 219 St Thomas Synagogue 837-8 environment 802 Cayman Islands 278 synagogue ruins (Sint Eustatius) festivals & events 13, 378, 770-1, 649 791, 13, 378 Cuba 343 food 762, 803-4 Grenada 469 highlights 763 Haiti 521 T Montserrat 598 Taino Beach 167 history 799-800 Puerto Rico 629 telephone services 872 itineraries 762 St Lucia 703 temples language 769 St Vincent & the Grenadines Hanuman Murti and Davenna Yoga money 74, 762, 804 750, 754 Centre 782 music 801-2 Trinidad & Tobago 784 Waterloo Temple 781 planning 761-2 US Virgin Islands 856 Terre-de-Bas 496-7, 493 public holidays 804 Tyrrel Bay 466 Terre-de-Haut 492-6, 493 safety 803 Terres Basses 726-7 shopping 71 theme parks, see amusement & tours 807 U theme parks travel seasons 761 Underwater Explorers Society time 869, 872-3 travel to/from 762, 805 (UNEXSO) 168 tipping 872 travel within 806-7 Union Island 752-4 Titou Gorge 391 visas 762, 805 Universidad de la Habana 302 Tobago 785-99, 787 weather 761 US Virgin Islands 17, 87, 833-66, 835, Tobago Cays 754-5, 2 websites 762 17, 61 Toco 784 wildlife 802 accommodations 833, 862 Tortola 239-47 Trois-Îlets 580-1 activities 862 tourist information 873 Trois-Rivières 490 beaches 833, 840, 843, 849-50 Trafalgar Falls 389 boat trips 853, 857 Tropicana Nightclub (Cuba) 314, 9 transportation 18-19, 50-3, 875-8 business hours 862 True Blue 458-9 language 883, 884-5 children, travel with 862 Trujillo, Rafael Leonidas 440 travel seasons 868 cruise-ship travel 836, 837, 865, Tubagua Plantation Eco-Village 435 61 Turks & Caicos 10, 87, 808-32, 810- culture 860-1 11, 10, 366 000 Map pages diving & snorkeling 17, 45, 843-4, accommodations 828 846, 847, 850, 854, 856, 17 000 Photo pages activities 828-9 drinks 834 Damajagua 434 Grafton Caledonia Wildlife environment 861-2 Dominica 8, 8 Sanctuary 792 907 festivals & events 839, 847, 854 Dunn’s River Falls 539 Little Tobago 797 food 834, 863 La Tille Waterfalls 712 Millet Bird Sanctuary 707 highlights 835 Middleham Falls 391 Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary 750 history 859-60 Paria Falls 780 Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust itineraries 32, 834 Pitons Waterfall 709 782 money 74, 834, 863 Reach Falls 538

Rock Iguana Nursery (BVI) INDEX planning 833-4 Salto de Baiguate 438 257 public holidays 863-4 Salto de Jimenoa Dos 438 Sint Maarten Park 721 sustainable travel 853 Salto Jimenoa Uno 438

St Vincent Parrot Reserve U-W tours 854 Seven Sisters Falls 461 745 travel seasons 833 Trafalgar Falls 389 Syndicate Parrot Reserve travel to/from 834, 864-5 Wallilabou Falls 746 394 travel within 866 YS Falls 556 Union Nature Trail & Zoo visas 834, 864 weather 18, 870, see also individual 707 weather 833 islands Willemstad 12, 354-9, 356, 358, websites 834 websites 19, see also individual 12 wildlife 861 destinations windsurfing 49 USS Kittiwake 271 accommodations 869 Antigua 114 air tickets 876 Aruba 137 cruise-ship travel 59, 63 Barbados 208 V health 879, 880 Bonaire 232 vacations 872 weddings 65-7 British Virgin Islands 246 vaccinations 879 weights 874 Curaçao 360 Valley, the (Anguilla) 93-4 Well’s Bay 641-2 Dominican Republic 430, Valley, the (Virgin Gorda) 249-52 Wesley 397-8 434 Versailles Gardens 154 West Bay 278-9 Martinique 581 Vieques 617-20 West End (Anegada) 256-7 Master of the Ocean 26 Vieux Fort 712 West End (Tortola) 243 St-Barthélemy 666 Viñales 318-21 Weston 211 St Kitts & Nevis 687 Virgin Gorda 247-53 Westpunt 361-2 St Lucia 706, 712 Virgin Islands, see British Virgin whale-watching St-Martin/Sint Maarten 730 Islands, US Virgin Islands Dominican Republic 425, 431 Turks & Caicos 813 visas 19, 873, see also individual islands St Lucia 699, 710 Windward Hwy (St Vincent) 744-5 volcanoes Turks & Caicos 824, 826 Windward Islands 51 La Soufrière 490-1, 745 White Bay 254-5 Windward Rd (Tobago) 797 Mont Pelée 577, 587 White Island 466 Windwardside 636-40, 636 Montserrat 596 wildlife 25, 374, 3, 11, 22, 34, 374, women travelers 874 Quill, the 653, 654-5 375, see also individual animals, individual islands Antigua & Barbuda 127 websites 594 wildlife sanctuaries & zoos Bahamas, the 192 volunteering 873-4 Adventure Farm and Nature British Virgin Islands 261 Haiti 523 Reserve 793 Grenada 472 Sint Eustatius 656 Antigua Donkey Sanctuary Puerto Rico 631 US Virgin Islands 864 119 Trinidad & Tobago 805 Ardastra Gardens, Zoo & work 874 Conservation Center 153 W World Heritage sites Waitkubuli National Trail 392 Arikok National Wildlife Park 142 Bonaire National Marine Park Wallilabou 376, 745 231 Asa Wright Nature Centre 779 Washington, George 203 Brimstone Hill Fortress 376, 683, Barbados Wildlife Reserve 213 water 881 376 Booby Pond Nature Reserve 284 Water Island 843 Camagüey 327-9 Butterfly Farm 730 waterfalls Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca Caroni Bird Sanctuary 782 Argyle Falls 797 del Morro 333 Donkey Sanctuary (Aruba) 141-2 Cascada El Limón 424, Citadelle, the 518 429-30 Donkey Sanctuary (Bonaire) 233 El Morro 376, 604-5 Cascade aux Écrevisses 486-7 Emperor Valley Zoo 769 Fuerte San Cristóbal 376, 605, Concord Falls 463 Frigate Bird Sanctuary 122 377 World Heritage sites continued Willemstad 12, 354-9, 356, 358, Z 908 Fuerte San Felipe del Morro (El 12 zip-lining Morro) 376, 604-5 Zona Colonial 409-13, 410 Antigua 116 Habana Vieja (Old Havana) 294-8, Worthing 205 Jamaica 540 296-7 Wotten Waven 389-90 Puerto Rico 609 Old San Juan 14, 376, 604-7, 606, 14 St Kitts & Nevis 684 Parque Nacional Alejandro de St Lucia 707, 709, 712 Humboldt 340 Y yachting, see sailing & yachting Zona Colonial 409-13, 410 INDEX Trinidad (Cuba) 324-7 zoos, see wildlife sanctuaries Valle de los Ingenios 325 yoga 163, 552, 788 & zoos Viñales 318-21 YS Falls 556 W-Z

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 909

These symbols will help you find the listings you want: Look out for Sights T Tours Drinking 1 6 these icons: r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping F No payment Courses Information/ required C 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h s f Opening Hours Swimming Pool Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram projects. d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village