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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Jean-Bernard Carillet Many thanks to the travelers who used Heaps of thanks to Catherine Craddock for the last edition and wrote to us with help- her trust and to the editorial and cartography ful hints, useful advice and interesting teams. Ryan, coordinating-author extraordi- anecdotes: naire, deserves the thumbs up for his humor Silje Abelsen, Scott Adams, Dean Alexander, and support – a few beers await! In St Lucia, Gunilla Bewert, Steve Brosnan, Brandon special thanks to Genevieve, Janique, Rhonda, Bruce, Susan Burton, John Condon, Jerry Charkar, Jacques, Zaka and the staff at the Coyd, Sergio De Sousa, Amelie A Gagnon, St Lucia tourism board. In Paris, a heartfelt Holly Hill, Darlene James, Martin Jennett, désolé to Celine L, who (unwillingly) shared Jessica Johnson, Philip Johnston, Niels Juul, my ups and downs while I was on the road. On Megan Kelly, Kevin Krol, Jeff Mahler, Ignacio the home-front, well-deserved bisous to my Morejon, Odell Prior, Trish Reid, Michael daughter Eva and Christine, who shared some Ryan, Vic Sofras, Ivo Sotorp, Prammantioti of my Caribbean adventures a long time ago. Stavroula, Stanley Urban, Phil Vass Nate Cavalieri Thanks to the ‘Dream Team’ for the lengthy AUTHOR THANKS and heated discussion about desserts of Ryan Ver Berkmoes the world and to my excellent colleagues at Lonely Planet. Thanks especially to Florence Huge thanks go to the amazing team of Chien, my favorite person. authors who worked on this book. That we were able to produce this level of work when Paul Clammer forced to travel to the Caribbean from our Travel in Haiti is always an amazing experi- cold winter homes is extraordinary. Thanks ence, but my trips in 2010 were particu- to the in-house team, including Cat Crad- larly humbling, seeing the aftermath of the dock, Bruce Evans, Alison Lyall and Laura earthquake and the fortitude of the Haitians. Crawford. On the road, big thanks to the Special thanks to Michael, Walnes and the island of Bequia for being so cool that it’s St Joe’s family. Thanks also to Jacqualine my new favorite small island. And to old pals Labrom, Emily Troutman, Landon Yarrington, everywhere: humble thanks. Bette Gebrian, Tessa Lewis, Nat Segaren, Leah Page, Gabie Vincent and Thor Burnham. Michael Grosberg helped me during my research, In Cuba spe- Rebecca Tessler, my heart, is always with cial thanks to Julio Muñoz, Rafael Requejo, 889 me. Gracias to Isabel Rosario, Oscar Jr and Nilson Guilaré, Angel Rodríguez, Victor in his father and Pinky Rodriguez in Jarabacoa; Trinidad, Maité and Idolka in Morón, Norberto Mark Fernandez and Tim Hall for their help in Hernández in Havana and the bloke at Ecotur Puerto Plata; mountain biker Maximo Gomez; in Bayamo. On the work-front, muchas gra- Mariam Matías and her brother David from cias to co-author Luke Waterson and com- Constanza; Steve McKenney from Luperon; missioning editor Catherine Craddock. On the home-front, well-deserved besos to wife, chef Rafael Vasquez; Martin Pantallon in San- SCENES THE BEHIND to Domingo. To Carly Neidorf for her support Liz and son, Kieran. and presence. And of course to my co-author Andrea Schulte-Peevers Kevin Raub, coordinating author Paul Clam- mer and commissioning editor Catherine A heartfelt thank you to all those whose Craddock and managing editor Bruce Evans. advice, support and insights were invaluable during the research of this book, particularly Adam Karlin the irrepressible Carolanne Watson, the gra- Thanks: Julian and Alex for friendship, laughs cious Simonetta Di Barbora and fi lm-maker and perspective, Steve and Roger for tons of par excellence David Lea. Special thanks valuable advice, Rachel for her companion- to my colleague Ryan Ver Berkmoes for so ship and constant support, every Jamaican generously sharing his expertise, to Cat who passed along a genuine smile and Craddock for entrusting me with this gig and warmth, Ryan for heading this mammoth to Suki Gear for her many years of trust and book – and big ups to Anna Kaminski for support. Last but not least, a giant thank helping make this Jamaica chapter what it is. you to my Nascar-quality husband David for white-knuckling the islands’ often hellish Tom Masters roads. Many thanks to Rosemary Masters, who Polly Thomas accompanied me on much of my travels for this book, and retained her good humor as Huge thanks to Dexter Lewis for support I defected to research hotels or drove her beyond the call of duty; and to Skye Her- down dirt tracks looking for obscure beaches: nandez, Bess Hernandez and Dwayne Lewis you’re the best mother in the world, and I for love, support and Aaron-related backup. couldn’t have hoped for a more inspirational Thanks also to Lucille Sylvester for coming parent. Many thanks also to all the folks who up trumps where the Tourist Board didn’t; to helped me along the way, to my Lonely Planet Brandon Presser for guiding lights; and Bruce colleagues and the wonderful people of the Evans and Cat Craddock for their patience Caribbean Islands. and editorial wisdom. Emily Matchar Karla Zimmerman Thanks to Robbin Whachell, Lyndah Wells, Mega-thanks to Lisa Beran and Tamara Beran Lanelle Phillips, Harry Bahama, Kaybel Taylor Robinson for helping research the Painkill- and Erika and Ed Gates for their excellent ers and piña coladas. Thanks the following Grand Bahama info. Thanks to Eugene at the people for sharing their local knowledge: Don Pineville Motel in Andros for sharing his vast Near, Mr Frett, Dmitri at Magens Bay, Mat- local knowledge. Thanks to Katie and Grant thew Telesford and Bailey at Udder Delight. at the Bimini Sands, for their great Bimini and Extreme gratefulness to Lonely Planet’s Ryan Andros tips. Thanks to Laurie Costanza, my Ver Berkmoes, Cat Craddock and Bruce Loyalist Cays partner in crime. And thanks as Evans for advice and patience. Thanks most always to Jamin Asay for being my compan- of all to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best ion in travel and life. partner-for-life, for ecocamping. Brandon Presser Once again too many names, too little space. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Sincere thanks to Lynn Costenaro, Andries Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Bonnema, Grant Gilmore, Trudy Nixon, Sue World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Ricketts, Jean-Philippe, travel pal Greg and Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System St Joanne. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Cat, Sciences, 11, 1633 44. RVB, and the rest of the exceptional publish- ing team. Cover photograph: Boat in the Caribbean Brendan Sainsbury Sea, Corbis/Photolibrary. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, weather Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanet forecasters, paladar owners, wandering images.com. troubadours and innocent bystanders who 890 THIS BOOK Masters, Jens Porup, Brandon Managing Layout De- Presser, Brendan Sainsbury, signer Chris Girdler This 6th edition of Lonely Ellee Thalheimer and Karla Assisting Editors Andrew Planet’s Caribbean Islands Zimmerman. This guidebook was Bain, Carolyn Boicos, Jessica guidebook was researched and commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Crouch, Kim Hutchins, Asha written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes Oakland office, and produced by Ioculari, Sarah Koel, Bella Li, Alan (coordinating author), Jean- the following: Murphy, Catherine Naghten, Di- Bernard Carillet, Nate Cavalieri, Commissioning Editors anne Schallmeiner, Matty Soccio, BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Paul Clammer, Michael Grosberg, Kathleen Munnelly, Suki Gear, Gina Tsarouhas, Jeanette Wall Anna Kaminski, Beth Kohn, Catherine Craddock-Carrillo Assisting Cartographers Adam Karlin, Tom Masters, Bran- Coordinating Editor Laura Ildiko Bogdanovits, Valeska don Presser, Kevin Raub, Emily Crawford Canas, Julie Dodkins, Joelene Matchar, Tom Masters, Brendan Coordinating Cartogra- Kowalski, Andy Rojas Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte- pher Mark Griffiths Peevers, Polly Thomas, Luke Cover Research Naomi Waterson and Karla Zimmerman. Coordinating Layout De- Parker The 5th edition was researched signer Kerrianne Southway Internal Image Research and written by Ryan Ver Berk- Managing Editors Bruce Sabrina Dalbesio moes (coordinating author), Amy Evans, Annelies Mertens Thanks to Helen Christinis, C Balfour, Paul Clammer, Michael Managing Cartographer Ryan Evans, Trent Paton, Martine Grosberg, Scott Kennedy, Alison Lyall Power, Averil Robertson, Gerard Richard Koss, Josh Krist, Tom Walker, Juan Wanita NOTES 891 Anse Bertrand 486 diving & snorkeling 40-1, 136-7 892 Anse Céron 576 drinks 131, 140 Anse d’Arlet