CLIMBING MASSANUTTEN (Music) 1St Reader: SINCE Climbing Massanutten Has Al- Beyond Greenish Black Pines Most Become an Annual Tradition Rise the Snow Capped Apenines

Home , Massanutten Mountain, New Market Gap

30 THE VIRGINIA TEACHER [Vol. 16, No. 2

in silence and the body burned to ashes. CLIMBING MASSANUTTEN (music) 1st Reader: SINCE climbing Massanutten has al- Beyond Greenish black pines most become an annual tradition Rise the Snow capped Apenines. among Harrisonburg college girls, A sky serene and cloudless perhaps some information about The Peak Melts into waters of violet blue. may increase the opportunity for enjoyment. 2nd Reader: This article is written, therefore, in the hope On the sands a leaping fire that it may add to the worthwhile pleasure A funeral pyre. It rises high and of the climbers by contributing to the de- higher velopment of their geographical eyes. Ashes to Ashes and Dust to Dust, it An outstanding feature of the Valley to- burns the Brain and the Heart of pography is the mountain called Massanut- Shelley. ten, a name of Indian origin. "From the 1st Reader: valley floor Massanutten Mountain appears But what of his Soul? as a single level-topped ridge with steep Like a cloud of fire slopes and abrupt ends. It is in reality Does it soar higher? composed of two or more parallel ridges, And mount the blue which are unbroken by water gaps for Like his own sky lark. nearly 45 miles. It has a general altitude Yes, it shall rise forever and sing! of 2,700 feet. The northern half is com- {From Adonais) posed of two parallel ridges four miles apart Narrator: separated by a deep valley that drains north- Dust to the dust! But the pure spirit shall ward, passing out through a rocky gorge flow, between the ends of the ridges. The south- Back to the burning fountain whence it ern half is less simple, being composed of came. three and in some places of four parallel A portion of the Eternal, which must glow ridges, straight, others curved and sigmoid, Through time and change, unquenchably the and more or less cut into segments by small same. . . . stream gaps."1 Peace, peace! he is not dead; he doth not In the folding of rock strata, the arch sleep—• made by rocks bending upward is called the He hath awakened from the dream of life. anticline, while the trough made by rock He has outsoared the shadow of our night. layers being depressed is called the syncline. He is made one with Nature, there is heard Massanutten "is produced by a synclinal His voice in all her music. . . fold of such unusual depth that the hard He is a portion of the loveliness Tuscarora sandstone, which overlies the Which once he made more lovely. softer rocks, was brought so low that it was The One remains, the many change and here protected from complete removal by pass; the erosion which removed it from the rest Heaven's light forever shines, Earth's of the region. So these hard beds form an shadows fly, outlying mountain (Fig. 1) in the open Life, like a dome of many-colored glass, 2 valley." Stains the white radiance of Eternity. The Soul of Adonais, like a star, ^tose, G. W., and Miser, H. D., Bulletin _No. Beacons from the abode where the Eternal XXIII, Manganese Deposits of Western Virginia, pp. 14, IS, Virginia Geological Survey, University are. (music) of Virginia. VlDA R. SuTTON mid, p. 40. February, 1935] THE VIRGINIA TEACHER 31

Figure 1.—Cross-section of rock formations from a point three miles northeast of Harrisonburg to a point one mile west of Elkton. The ap- proximate location of this cross-sec- 5W tion is shown by the line AA on map, Figure 2. .tSacf —Modified from C. R. L. Odor, U. of Va., 1929. I*"-,

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"North of Strasburg the strata enclosed video just south of the Peak, but it extends in this downfold or syncline have been at least twenty-nine miles farther to the worn down to the general level of the Val- southwest. The Massanutten mountain syn- ley, but south of this town a deep sag in cline "ceases as a geologic feature of the this syncline brings the more resistant Mas- Valley in the region between Staunton and sanutten quartzites below the general level Greenville, the Martinsburg shale of this of erosion of the neighboring mountains. syncline showing for the last time at a Thus when, as a result of subsequent eros- point just north of the latter place."6 ion, the Great Valley was formed, Massa- The statement has been made that the nutten mountain, on account of its hard Massanutten is unbroken by water gaps for quartzites, was left as a ridge- dividing the nearly forty-five miles. However, the New Shenandoah Valley."3 Market gap is an excellent example of a Without geological investigation, a person wind gap. The Lee Highway crosses Mas- might conclude that the Massanutten syn- sanutten through the New Market gap, and cline ended in the Strasburg vicinity. In- at the point at which the highway crosses stead it extends to the northern boundary the Shenandoah-Page county boundary, the of the state and over into West Virginia. elevation is 1800 feet. One-half mile farther It is found in the eastern portion of Fred- northwest from this point, the elevation is erick county,4 and the eastern limb of the above 2700 feet. During the Kittatinny Massanutten syncline is exposed along the Cycle and during the greater part of the western edge of Clarke county and pro- Tertiary Cycle, a stream flowed through the duces outcrops of Ordivician limestone in present wind gap.7 Other wind gaps of the the vicinity of Wadesville (Fig. 2) in the boundary of Shenandoah Valley are Rock- northwestern corner of the county.5 From fish Gap and Swift Run Gap. Water gaps the surface of the land, it might seem that which are important in influencing present the Massanutten syncline ended at Monte- transportation routes are Buffalo Gap and 3Bassler, R, S., Bulletin No. II—A, Cement Resources of Virginia West of the Blue Ridge, tlbid, pp. 119, 120. pp. 41, 42, Virginia Geological Survey, University 7Univ._ of Va. Publications; Bull, of Philosoph- of Virginia. ical Society, Scientific Section, Vol. I, No. 17, pp. Hbid, p. 67. 352, 358, 360, "Drainage Changes in the Shenan- ilhid, p. 73. doah Valley Region of Virginia." 32 THE VIRGINIA TEACHER [Vol. 16, No. 2

Figure 2.—Map showing area included in Massa- n, ..t u-r nutten syncline with adjoining land. Bertvvflk

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¥ m SKnviloiJt Qti KarrisxinfivtJ Udeli* 1 W "jtntrcrd GA? TJrfuWk belongs to the Athens formation which geologists are inclined to say came into ex- % istence 700,000,000 years ago. The rock Travf~7Mt. nearest the surface between Harrisonburg 5taunton and the vicinity of Rutherford belongs to W2S "I this formation. Then for a short distance, the Stones River limestones are the surface rocks. Then for much of four miles, the p^cKfish Gap rocks observed belong to Beekmantown , n*' V ^ 38* dolomite (Fig. 3), which was formed at an earlier period than the two other formations which have been mentioned. The line of Brock's Gap along the western side of this the Staunton Fault marks the contact of valley. Beekmantown dolomite and Elbrook lime- Before the student rushes from the cam- stone. During the last mile before Keezle- pus to board the special Chesapeake-West- town is reached, the Elbrook formation is ern train, she may look at the Big Rock in the surface rock. This is the oldest rock front of Alumnae Hall and recall that it crossed during the excursion ;• it belongs to February, 1935] THE VIRGINIA TEACHER 33 7S°5»'

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Figure 3.—Geologic sketch map of the environs of Massanutten Caverns. (By Charles Butts.) Ce, Elbrook limestone; Ccg, Conococheague limestone; On Nittany dolomite; Olm, Stones River (Mosheim and Lenoir) limestones; Oa, Athens formation; Omb, Martinsburg formation; Sc, Clinch sandstone and Clinton group; Scy, Cayuga group; Doh, Helderberg group and Oriskany sandstone. From Virginia Geological Survey Bulletin 35, Figure 17. Courtesy Virginia Geological Survey. the late Cambrian system and is probably During much of the lower half of the trail, 800,000,000 years old. The vicinity of the Martinsburg formation is crossed, but Keezletown has Conococheague limestone of this has been so much covered by rock the Ozarkian system, so it is a few million washed from the upper slopes that sur- years younger than the Elbrook. face exposures are lacking. But about As one walks from the railroad to the half way to the top of the ridge, the trail mountain, Beekmantown dolomite is cross- becomes a well-worn path over continuous ed. The lower slope of Massanutten is Martinsburg shale. If the climber will ob- Stones River limestone and Athens forma- serve, the layers of shale pointing down into tion, but since it has been covered by talus the side of the mountain may seem surpris- carried down from the upper slope, these ing unless it is remembered that the Mas- formations are not exposed along the trail. sanutten is a synclinal fold. Rather sud- 34 THE VIRGINIA TEACHER [Vol. 16, No. 2 denly, the climber becomes conscious of a Elkton is more than 8 miles almost due east, change in the kind of rock exposed, as the and if visibility is good, cars may be seen Martinsburg Incline has been passed. It on the Spotswood Trail at Swift Run Gap. may be said that the Tuscarora Stairs have Through this wind gap almost 12)4 miles been reached, as the rock is Tuscarora due east cars cross the Blue Ridge at an quartzite. The whitish color of this rock elevation exceeding 2300 feet. The student and the change in angle of slope cause the who wants to "look down" on the college student to remember this formation distinct- may see the cupola of Wilson Hall standing ly. Above the Tuscarora, a hard fine-grain- out prominently 6)4 miles to the northwest. ed, dense, deep-red sandstone occurs. Some- The student may reflect with satisfaction on times this has been called Massanutten having, for the time being, risen 1500 feet sandstone; at other times, it has been given above the campus! the name Cacapon sandstone. This may be The smokestack in Shenandoah City, 10 observed as the trail is followed along the miles to the northeast, may be easily dis- crest of the ridge to the southwest toward tinguished. Goods Mountain (elevation The Peak. Because of the name of the rock 3700) is a distinct formation of the Alle- observed, this may be called the Cacapon ghenies 21 miles to the northwest. West of Trail. A small area at The Peak has a Harrisonburg and almost 11 miles from gray sandstone which is coarse-grained and The Peak, the monadnock Mole Hill (ele- is probably a representative of the Keefer vation 1900) may be located. Looking sandstone. This gray sandstone is the most over Round Hill, one sees, at a distance of recent rock which may be observed during 21 miles, the crest of Narrow Back Moun- the Massanutten excursion and its age may tain, front ridge of the Alleghanies. On be considered as 650,000,000 years. Lest some cool day with unusual visibility, per- these various rocks seem unduly old, it may haps someone will recognize Elliott Knob be remarked that on the crest of the Blue (elevation 4473), the outstanding peak of Ridge are rocks which are considered the Alleghanies 34 miles southwest. 1,000,000,000 years old! The Peak climber should keep in mind The detailed narration of these nine di- that Laird's Knob directly east of Harrison- visions of rocks exposed along the route burg has an elevation of 3300, and is there- from Harrisonburg to The Peak will em- fore 400 feet higher than the point to which phasize the variety of rocks found in a the annual climb is made. Laird's Knob six-and-one-half mile space. lies 4)4 miles northeast of The Peak, The observer arriving on The Peak is of- Nearly two miles farther to the northeast, ten uncertain regarding directions. On Grubb's Knob has a similar elevation of clear days he may see Round Hill (Fig. 2) 3300. These two points are the highest near Bridgewater, a monadnock having an points of the Massanutten Ridge and their elevation of more than 1500 feet and ap- appearance suggests a resemblance to the proximately 12 miles directly west. The humps of a camel. unincorporated town Montevideo is exactly Especially in winter, when coniferous south of the observer's location. If this trees are so easily frecognized, the plant life highway junction cannot be identified, the covering the sides of the ridge shows some observer may locate Trayfoot Mountain of interesting adjustments. The talus accu- the Blue Ridge ; it is higher than any nearby mulation about the base of the ridge has a peak of that ridge visible from The Peak. much larger fraction of coniferous trees The summit of Trayfoot (elevation 3300) than occurs higher on the slope. Some of rises 12 miles straight south of The Peak. the spurs extending out from the ridge February, 1935] THE VIRGINIA TEACHER 35 seem to favor the coniferous type, but at the beginning of the climb to The Peak by other locations, ravines have coniferous the trail which the college groups follow, growth suggesting areas with soil of less the group is within the purchase boundaries fertility; here deciduous trees are not able of the national forest, although all during to grow successfully. Along the Cacapon the climb, they are on land which is still Trail, stunted oaks are noticed. privately owned. At some future time, There are historical and literary associa- when that part of the national forest area tions which should be mentioned. In June, is offered for sale and there are funds with 1862, there was a party of signallers sta- which to buy, it will probably be acquired tioned on The Peak to observe all roads by the federal government. leading to the Confederate positions near In the interests of easy climbing, students Cross Keys and -Port Republic. In Hen- are advised to eat breakfast, reduce the derson's "Stonewall Jackson and the Ameri- luggage carried, wear comfortable shoes, can Civil War," Vol. I, Chap. XI, one finds and have their hands free; each student will descriptions of the beautiful scenery which have therefore to decide how much of this impressed that signal group. Nearly twenty information she will carry while making years later, in 1880, Sidney Lanier spent a the trip to The Peak. It may serve either summer at the resort, Rockingham Springs, as a mental breakfast or as an Alpine staff on the east slope of Massanutten about three to make the climbing easier. miles northeast of The Peak. Since Lanier Raus M. Hanson was ill at the time, he rode on horse-back along the trails of the vicinity. He prob- MR. AND MRS. GERM RESIDE ON ably never climbed to The Peak, since any VERTICAL-JET FOUNTAIN lover of a horse would not risk having the animal injured by such an attempt. Four studies made before 1920 proved Gordon, in his "Reminiscences of the that vertical-jet drinking fountains retain Civil War," Chap. XXIV, page 333, tells the disease germs of one drinker and serve how he was able to make observations from them to the next—and yet in modern Signal Knob, the northern end of the Mas- schools, offices, and public buildings verti- sanutten, one day in mid-September, 1864. cal-jet drinking fountains are constantly It must have been a day having high visi- being installed. This type of fountain is bility because of the minute details which as dangerous as the common drinking cup. he was able to distinguish with his field- The bubbling fountain should flow from glasses. Although he was making observa- an angle so that the water does not touch tions as a military man, he includes descrip- the jet after it has once spouted out. A tions of the beautiful scenery which was guard should be placed above the jet to spread as a panorama before him. prevent a person from touching the nozzle The Massanutten District of the George —and the jet and nozzle should be placed Washington National Forest includes higher than the top edge of the bowl so that 133,008 acres of the Massanutten Ridge, al- if the bowl should clog the jet will not be though the federal government had acquired contaminated by the over-flow. These pre- only 65,941 acres at the close of 1934. This cautions prevent disease germs from fall- suggests that the federal-owned acreage in- ing back on the jet and insure cleanliness cludes about fifty per cent of the land now on ordinary occasion. within the purchase boundaries, and that a Nineteen states now recommend angle- person may be within the national forest jet fountains as being more sanitary than and yet be on privately owned land. From vertical-jet ones.